# Japanese tools



## mafe

*Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*

*Japanese hand plane setup*
Fitting, tuning and sharpening.

*If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.

Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).

*And so this is how this blog begins.*









Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
Some types:
Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker). 
Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).

My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
The one I already have and that are setup is:
60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.









First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.









Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
(The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).









First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.









Now color the side that will touch the blade.









Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.









Finish by removing the burr gently.









You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.









Making the chip breaker fit.
The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
(Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).









Like so.
Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).









Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.









The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
(Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).









Sharpening.
I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.









I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.









A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.









Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.









Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.









The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.









The solution is wonderfully simple.
PAPER.
Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.









I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.









White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.









And the paper set on top.
The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.









The sole.
Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!









The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).









With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.









Almost there.









Now I am happy.
Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…









Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).

The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…









For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.









So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.









And here the front end (behind the blade).









Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.









The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.









And the big Kanna.









Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.









Sweet yes?









But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.

*This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Links:
My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false

UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.

Here are my blog in Russian:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25

I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.

New Dec 2013
Link:





*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great Post. Thanks Mads. How is the vacation going?


----------



## ShopTinker

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Fascinating blog, very educational. That's a very nice little family of planes you have there now.


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Lol. I think it is one family in a very large community. : ^ )


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Looks good, Mads.


----------



## jaxonquad

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


It is obvious you have enjoyed yourself. Beautiful tools.
I like the concept of earning the right to use a tool. 
Sounds like an interesting read, thanks for sharing.


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great Post Mads.
Interesting read. 
Japanese planes are the first planes I ever owned but my lack of technique in adjusting them properly has always slowed me down in adjusting them. Indeed, they are usually sold in a not-tuned state and you have to adjust them to work properly, which is not so easy when you don't have the proper knowledge/experience in planes. 
I have now for the time being switched to metal planes in order to build up a technique and get a better understanding of the planing mechanics.
Still my small Japanese plane is the one I always reach first for block-plane use : it is so versatile and just fits my hand.

I don't know if you are aware of this but dai naoshi kanna litterally means "plane for tuning bodies (of other planes)"

Most of the knowledge on Japanese tools I have gathered comes from reading this book :

http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/4416305060/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=466449256&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=4753025004&pf_rd_m=AN1VRQENFRJN5&pf_rd_r=1G5DE4SACKDD817F613X

I have just ordered the book you mentioned by Odate Toshio as it seems to be getting a lot of good reviews (and will be quicker to read for me in English…)

Thanks again for a great post, keep them coming !


----------



## KentS

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I love your blogs. They are so informative.

Thanks once again


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Of course you would use sheet music. The sounds of a planes is sweet music, what song is it playing?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hollyday and enjoy so here.

Kent, I smile and trust me I try to be in the place of the reader when I blog, after all this is the most important part, to pass on this and hope others will be inspired and understand.

RG, it is a old romantic Danish child song you can read the text here : http://www.mamalisa.com/?t=es&p=2562&c=47 sweet as can be, and the image of Denmark as we want to remember it in the old days.
When I use the plane I hear more sweet wisper of shaves and the wood that stretch after it's long sleep, now happy to show its glow again.

Fabrice, I would love to order that book, but is it possible to order from a Japanese amazon? I had for many years only a pair of thse terible Stanleys with changable blades, those planes really suck but I never needed to learn to sharpen and since I had no one to learn me it was a easy choice. The never really worked well but they could take of some wood when needed. Then only a little more than 500 days I bought a bunsh of old tools and this was the way of no return, I have been hooked since then I try and try to sharpen to set up and to test all types of planes, not because I really need this, simply because I find it interesting and that it was a old dream to be a carpenter of furniture as young. I fast found out that the stanley type planes are the esay ones to get started with. A piece of glass, some grades of sandpaper and a blade guide is all you need for a sharp edge and the rest is adjustment if your plane is well tuned when you buy it. But the more I use planes the more I tend towards the wood body planes, they take a few weeks of use to understand but once you do, it is just as easy to set it up as a Stanley type, and sharpening is the same. I think it is the feeling of wood agains wood, not metal and wood, I feel more light with the wooden planes more alive, the metal planes are 'dead' and only the woodhandles make them talk back a little to you. For some this is BS but to me it is a evidence. So will I use only wood planes? NO. I love to have a lot of planes each are good for different purpose and different moods. But I have a feeling that in time the metal planes will be less and less used, they will be there as my naive belive that the metal is more stabile and will back me up I think. But since I am all green like a fresh piece of wood only time can tell. Thank you for the info.

Wayne, yes I do enjoy it, that is a promise I can make. And the idea of earning your right to the tool also talks to me, even I cant say I have lived by that rule lately, but I try to not become a collector, I sell the tools I never use or that I have in doubble unless there are a reason to have two like clamps….

CJIII, so are you - laugh.

Wayne C, Yes you are more right, it is a little world now, all types and nations are represented in my little tool shop. I enjoy the summer, now here in Denmark, yesterday at a middleage museeum where we made fire with a piece of carbon metal, and a flint stone

ShopThinker, I my self learned a lot here, not only for the Japanese planes, but for planes in general and wood planes in particular, and then to be able to pass as you learn is to me a wonderful cocktail.

August McCormick Lehman III, perhaps I'm just a big boy who have not understood the word limits… Thank you.

All of you, thank you for the intrest and comments, it is always a joy to post when response arrives, to me it is a big part of the pleasure.
Wishes for a wonderful summer,
Mads


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,
You can create an account on amazon.co.jp and when you select the shipping address, there is a link for international shipment. There is also a link to display the text in English instead of Japanese.
I usually order my books to my in-laws house in Japan and pick them up when I go there, or have they brought to me when someone I know travels to France.

Hope this helps,


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I bet shipping would be killer. It has been my experience that if you ship something from say, Canada to Denmark, the cost of shipping is greater than the cost of the book.

Those books make me wish I could speak Japanese.


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I did a quick test,
The book costs 2000 Yens (18 Euros)
Shipping to Europe from Amazon.co.jp costs 3500 Yens (31 Euros) + 300 Yens (2.7 Euros) per extra book.

So you are right Wayne, it is indeed double the cost of the book. 
If you buy 2 or 3 books at the same time though, it is not too bad…


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


A really good argument for publishing more books as eBooks. They become more available to people around the world.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Fabrice, thank you for the info. Yes shipping are sometimes a killer. Is the book worth 49 Euro? What other books can you recomend from there if I should make a combo? 
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

I learned a lot of things in that book. There are very detailed chapters on how to tune and sharpen the tools, chapters about their usages and then a few projects to make some tools oneself. 
It may be thought of the Japanese version of "The New Traditional Woodworker". 
I have received Odate Toshio's "Japanese Woodworking Tools" so if you compare it to this book, you will find much smaller number of different tools but each tool's usage and sharpening will be better described in my opinion.
As to whether it is worth 49 Euros… it depends what 49 Euros are worth to you… I personally have issues paying a book more than 35 Euros but that is mostly psychological.

Some other nice books that I do not own but look interesting :
http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E9%89%8B%E5%A4%A7%E5%85%A8%E2%80%95%E3%82%AB%E3%83%B3%E3%83%8A%E3%81%AE%E4%BD%BF%E3%81%84%E3%81%93%E3%81%AA%E3%81%97%E3%82%92%E7%B6%B2%E7%BE%85%E3%81%97%E3%81%9F%E6%B1%BA%E5%AE%9A%E7%89%88-%E5%A4%A7%E5%B7%A5%E9%81%93%E5%85%B7%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6%E4%BC%9A/dp/4416809115/ref=pd_sim_b_4
(The great book of Japanese Planes)
http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E9%91%BF%E5%A4%A7%E5%85%A8%E2%80%95%E3%83%8E%E3%83%9F%E3%81%AE%E4%BD%BF%E3%81%84%E3%81%93%E3%81%AA%E3%81%84%E3%81%97%E3%82%92%E7%B6%B2%E7%BE%85%E3%81%97%E3%81%9F%E6%B1%BA%E5%AE%9A%E7%89%88-%E5%A4%A7%E5%B7%A5%E9%81%93%E5%85%B7%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6%E4%BC%9A/dp/4416810008/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b
(The great book of Japanese Chisels)
http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E6%9C%A8%E7%B5%84%E3%81%BF%E3%83%BB%E7%B6%99%E6%89%8B%E3%81%A8%E7%B5%84%E6%89%8B%E3%81%AE%E6%8A%80%E6%B3%95-%E5%A4%A7%E5%B7%A5%E9%81%93%E5%85%B7%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6%E4%BC%9A/dp/4416811136/ref=pd_sim_b_2
(The great book of Japanese Joinery)
http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E9%8B%B8%E3%83%BB%E5%A2%A8%E5%A3%BC%E5%A4%A7%E5%85%A8%E2%80%95%E3%83%8E%E3%82%B3%E3%82%AE%E3%83%AA%E3%81%A8%E5%A2%A8%E5%A3%BC%E3%81%AE%E4%BD%BF%E3%81%84%E3%81%93%E3%81%AA%E3%81%97%E3%82%92%E7%B6%B2%E7%BE%85%E3%81%97%E3%81%9F%E6%B1%BA%E5%AE%9A%E7%89%88-%E5%A4%A7%E5%B7%A5%E9%81%93%E5%85%B7%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6%E4%BC%9A/dp/441681139X/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b
(The great book of Japanese saws and Sumitsubo - ink lines)

All these books are from the same collection and claim that you will know everything you can possibly know on the subject once you are done reading them.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wauu thank you!
Lovely.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful job Mads son!


----------



## jacobRM

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


MANGE tak mads, dette er en super blog! jeg har selv lige købt 4 stk kanna, brugte og de ser meget fornuftige ud, glæder mig til at få dem hjem og sætte dem op til brug.
jeg er i lære som møbelsnedker så de skal jo fungere fejlfrit 

Mvh jacob


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Jacob,
Just send you a mail.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## helluvawreck

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, I don't know how I missed this series but this first part is superbly done by you so I know the rest of it is as well knowing you. You've done it with so many details and with a lot of depth that I will have to read it a couple of more times before going to the next in the series. You are quite an accomplished craftsman and contribute maybe more than you will ever know to Lumberjocks. Congratulations. I look forward to the rest.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Charles,
I am curious, that is what I am, curious and a child that loves to learn.
Thank you for those wonderful kind words, I am here, right here my friend and with a big warm smile on my face that you just put there.
The best of my thoughts to you and the family,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.

Here are my blog in Russian:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25

I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.


----------



## ogisugatan

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I found this searching for Kana and I find this very helpful. Thank you for this. Cheers from the P.I.!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


ogisugatan, thank you for letting me know, it brings a smile to my lips.
Merry Christmas.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.dk/2012/06/chip-off-old-block-iii.html


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Reading on setup.


----------



## WOmadeOD

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks for this article, very helpful in setting up my first Kanna. http://lumberjocks.com/WOmadeOD/blog/68538


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Cool Mitch,
So happy to know it is used.
Just looked at the visit numbers, quite amazing.
So yes my love to share comes to it's right I guess.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


This guy made some amazing videos, that will explain it all also:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjXzkUcxmwsfHPaQe754WDCn1vtSjSDU2
The blog here is almost ten years old now and I have had a lot of positive feed back, so guess it was one of those who were really worth posting. It was even translated into Russian. 
Thanks.


----------



## 987Ron

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Setting up my own Japanese Plane is in the future. Your blog will be my instruction. Thanks.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup*
> 
> *Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> *And so this is how this blog begins.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
> In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
> Some types:
> Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
> Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
> Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).
> 
> My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
> The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
> The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
> The one I already have and that are setup is:
> 60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
> This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
> The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
> The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
> (The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now color the side that will touch the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
> Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish by removing the burr gently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the chip breaker fit.
> The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
> This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
> I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
> (Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
> The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
> A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
> (Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening.
> I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
> Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
> Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
> As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution is wonderfully simple.
> PAPER.
> Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the paper set on top.
> The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole.
> Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
> The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
> So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
> And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
> Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
> And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.
> 
> *This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
> A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.
> 
> Here are my blog in Russian:
> http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25
> 
> I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.
> 
> New Dec 2013
> Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Ron,
Thank you with a smile here.
This is what sharing is all about.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese chisel NOMI setup*

*Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.

*If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.

When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.

Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.

*And so this blog begins.*

Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.

So what do we get? We get what we pay for!

High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.

Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.

Facts:
Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.









Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.









The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.









The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.









I prefer linseed oil and wax.









To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.









Like this it will come of easy.
Some can be all loose from birth.









To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.









Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.









Well prepared now soft.









Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.









Here you see the steps.









And the whole bunch done.









Now drip some oil on the tops.









And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.









So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.









First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.









Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.









Time to sharpen.
We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.









Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.









And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
Back first.









Then bevel.









Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.









And the shiny flat back.









Now wax or oil.









And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.









And this is where the story ends.
The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
(Except a set of Iles right behind…).
Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
(Notice a little new one on the table…).

*This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*

Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.

Links:
My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## hObOmOnk

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Ichi ban!
Here's a picture of some Oire-Nomi that I recently setup.
The one in the middle is complete.
I add the burnt lattice pattern to both improve the grip and for decoration.
I also "tap-out" the edge with a hammer (fenate gennou) to slightly push back the soft steel layer from the hard steel layer.









Blessings,
Bro. Tenzin


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads,
Since you say you could not find it anywhere, the handle itself is called "柄" which is pronounced "Eh" (or "É" as I think that you can read French)

Thanks for the post.

PS, another great way to get good chisels in Japan for cheap is like in every country : flea markets.


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great write-up Mads. So…..

Iles?
Japanese? 
Depends on the task?


----------



## ksSlim

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Excellent Instruction. I'm envious of your tool kit.


----------



## Randy63

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Your blogs on Japanese tools has been very interesting. I have over a period of time assembled a collection of various Japanese tools, chisels, saws, and waterstones for sharpening. I actually use them in combination with my standard tools but find I tend to favor the japanese. I don't actually have any Japanese planes but I have used them and find them to be very effecient. My Krenov style plane I made many years ago is a modified plane that uses a Japanese laminated blade that can take paper thin shavings. Again, really have enjoyed your blogs, the scaper plane, plane set up, and the setting up and sharpening of chisels.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I left your blog within 3 seconds. 
I decided to come back and read it fully.

I figure it does not hurt to learn something new. Boy I love the worksharp 

Thanks Mafe always interesting stuff.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi,

Ian, You are just wonderful. Yes I am the same, the workshop is such a wonderful chance to learn new, and there are nothing like learning. Wonderful if you come back to read.

Randy, I have the same bug, this wonderful little Japanese bug that opens and becomes a butterfly when we use the tools, it is hard to describe, but a metal plane cant give me the same pleasure, the same feel with the wood, perhaps it is zen, perhaps it is the fact that not all are given, that we are in the elements, not just 'adjust the latheral adjuster and turn the adjustment screw one third' and try again… I love all my planes for each their reason, but it is only in the wooden and especially the japanese that I find this feeling of melting in with the tool… I might need a good doctor - lol. And I think the Krenov style planes when made with the heart they offer the same feeling.
KsSlim, as you write in the sub text: 'Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic', I have a good bunch of tools, so I must need a lot of therapi.

Wayne, spot on! Yes it depends on the task, it depends of the mood, the long Iles chisels with the ultra low sides are exelent for cleaning up, making a plane like cut, for getting super sharp cornors and so. The Japanese are another feel where your hand needs to be more the control, and they have high sides so they are not 'dovetail' chisels (you can buy Japanese dovetail chisels, they are usually for parring). I sharpen them with a app. 25 degrees bevel for the Iles and a 30 degrees for the Japanese, then the Iles are ready for parring and the Japanese for some beating with a hammer.

Fabrice, thank you I have added the Eh in the text now (know it is not fully correct). Since I have not been in Japan and my budget is low I will not be able to get to a Japanese flee marked. But I just bought ten old used Japanese chisels and a hand plane from a guy in Japan, all old and hand forged, all really is in need for a loving hand, and of various shapes and sizes so I might be lucky that there are one or two nice ones that will be working with me in my workshop, but this is like a lottery so time will tell. The reason I bought these were to see how they were put together, to see how they were used, to try and get a understanding of the Japanese chisels.
(I did not pay too much so no harm done).

hobomonk, wonderful chisels, that is a sweet pattern you have made, really 'buddist', is Tenzin not also the name of the Dali? I like it. 
Why do you tap out the steel, and what is the process, I know tapping the back on the plane irons (even I fear when I have to…), but tapping the chisels… As I understand it is the meeting between the soft and hard steel yes? Hmmm can you pls explain.
Beautiful chisels.

Best thoughts from my heart guys, full of wooden zen,
Mads


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, you are so inspiring. I have a drawer full of chisels that need to be reworked. Your post always makes me want to just get to it. Thanks for the motivation.


----------



## DocSavage45

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Konichiwa! ( afternoon or good day in Japanese) Sounds and looks as if you are "in the spirit" ( Odata) Enjoy the journey, moment to moment. I find it hard to do. LOL Check out "The tea ceremony"...it relates, And "WabiSabi".

Being originally a "Norm" wanna be I was more power all the way? Emory on a flat surface and worksarp are great. Japanes waterstones are in the tradition…"Takai desu, ney!" (expensive yes?)

Great book that changed my thinking in addition to others is "The Complete Japanese Joinery" by Yasuo Nakahara.

Have another text in my library. Not handy at present. Blew my away..Half the book is a text translated to english regarding Japanese carpenty. Started out by instructing me to find a 6 tsubo by 6 tsubo ( a size used in Japan) place under a tree. Huh? And I said "but I just built a shop out of my barn"

Wabi Sabi!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great write up, Mad.


----------



## SASmith

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful blog Mads. Thank you for sharing.
Scott


----------



## hObOmOnk

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


*"Why do you tap out the steel, and what is the process, I know tapping the back on the plane irons (even I fear when I have to…), but tapping the chisels… As I understand it is the meeting between the soft and hard steel yes? Hmmm can you pls explain."*

Mads,
I use a tapping technique to slightly compress the soft steel at the point where it meets the hard steel, about in the center of the bevel. The hammer strikes are made lightly and they are angled inward away from the bevel. The hammer indentations are no greater than about the thickness of a thumb nail. This has a similar effect like hollow grinding a western style chisel. It makes resharpening faster. Also, subsequent sharpening will remove less of the precious hard steel.

Of course this process must be done carefully. A nail set or a punch can also be used to create the indentations with precision.

Hope this helps.
Blessings…
Bro. Tenzin


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Bro. Tenzin, I think I got it, but I will not do this with out seeing some one doing it first, my nerves and wallet are to thin. Thank you for the info.

Scott, ,-)

CJIII, ;-)

DocSavage45, Konichiwa! WabiSabi is my nature, and I have a wish to learn the tea ceremony for a long time, so yes we are on the same wave perhaps one of Hokusai.
Wabi Sabi

Don, we are two now…









Here are the vintage Japanese chisels, they arrived today - look wonderful so I smile big time.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice, You have the best toys !!!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


DaddyZ, Smile here, yes I am a child.

Here is a cool link about the parts and words of Japanese tools:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wow Mads, I see lots of potential in those chisels….


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Yes Wayne me too. I think some would look at this and say trash - we look and say 'wauuu potentiale, beauty, handforged steel, history', life is sweet.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## jacobRM

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mafe, love the blog, have just set up a japanese chisel, my first one!! i bought a mini chisel (155mm long)
and i found that when hammering the end, "mushroming" the wood around the steel hoop its very effective to soak the last part, about 1.5-2 cm, in warm water for about 20 minutes it will turn pretty soft but rock hard again when it dries out  great blog!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Jacob,
Thank you for the advice. What a wonderful chisel and hammer you got there.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## jacobRM

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


you are very welcome, love following your blog and projects on here 

Jacob


----------



## kewtdz

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great write up! I never thought about chisels from Korea so this was awesome to see. A friend of mine is teaching in Korea until May/June and my wife may be going to visit in March. Any recommendations on how to find a good chisel set while she is there?

Erich


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> 
> *Japanese chisel NOMI setup*
> preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.
> 
> When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.
> 
> *And so this blog begins.*
> 
> Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
> If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
> We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.
> 
> So what do we get? We get what we pay for!
> 
> High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
> High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
> Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
> Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
> Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.
> 
> Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
> So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.
> 
> Facts:
> Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
> Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
> A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
> A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
> The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
> The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
> Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer linseed oil and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
> Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this it will come of easy.
> Some can be all loose from birth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well prepared now soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole bunch done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drip some oil on the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to sharpen.
> We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
> Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
> If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
> Back first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the shiny flat back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wax or oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
> I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where the story ends.
> The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
> (Except a set of Iles right behind…).
> Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
> (Notice a little new one on the table…).
> 
> *This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.*
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Sorry Erich, can't help on that…
Best of luck.


----------



## mafe

*Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*

*Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
A little travel from trash to treasure…

*If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.

In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).

*Why do this?*
To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.









Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.









So what did I buy?
At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.









The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.









Back to the chisels.
I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).









They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.









A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
What this means time and use will tell.









The little cutting tool looks like so.
I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…









The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.









The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.









We can't win them all…
These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.









A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.









A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.









A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.









A broken handle could be replaced.
But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.









And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.









BUT.
A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.









Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…









Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.









First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.









Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
What do you think?
I think beautiful!









Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
Do I really need to say more?









Four handles passed the first step - four to go.









Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
Acetone is good for this.
The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).









Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.









Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.









Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.









As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.









This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.









I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
This makes it as smooth as I want it.









So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
(Perhaps it was written in the stars).









The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.









And this is what rises up from the ashes.
It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
(Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).









Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.









Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.









Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.









And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.









What do you think?
I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.









So here they are, all with their own charms.









I smile!









Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
(Just as I do with my knifes).









And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.









Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.









And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!

Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.

Links:
My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## kenn

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Sweet save of some nice chisels. I haven't used any Japanese chisels … yet… so it will be interesting to hear your impressions. It look like that wide one is just a nub but it makes the set look complete. Amazing what a bit of linseed oil can do to wood.


----------



## blackcherry

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Tear of Joy , these are wonderful looking tool…I will be planing my own restoration of these same type chisel…thanks for the inspiration….BC


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very nice Mads. I am green with envy.


----------



## bko

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


These look wonderful! You have a gift for turning your small projects into inspiration to us all!

-Brian in Boston


----------



## Chelios

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


What a wonderful set you ended up with. I can only imagine all those chisels have been through. Well done!


----------



## SamuelP

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Is that just plane linseed oil you are using on the handles? Then a polish compound and a wheel?

Very nice finish.


----------



## ShopTinker

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


That was an amazing restoration. When I saw how dry those handles were I didn't think there was any point in trying saw them. They drank that oil up and seem to be rejuvenated. That is another very nice set of chisels you have there. Thanks for sharing their rebirth. Their original masters would be pleased by your work.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


very interesting chisels and as usual, I love your blog.


----------



## LarsÖ

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


As always you offer us an exciting journey in to the world of woodworking tools!

I asked one of my Japanese colleges what the flashy label said: *mount Fuji star*.
Star can be read as hero. So it really spells: *The Hero of mount Fuji*.


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


beautiful journey back to life.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great save!


----------



## 58j35bonanza

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Beautiful job! 
The journey these chisels have taken would be quite a story, if they could tell it.
You just add 1 more chapter.


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice Set !!!


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I am surprised and impressed at how nice those handles look after the oil treatment. Good work on the restoration too.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi guys,

Mike, so nice to have you back, I acually missed you. I was also happy that the handles became so beautiful after the restore, the only problem is that now my new Japanese chisels look really borring and lifeless compared, but that is a luxury problem that use will take care of, in thirty years they will also have a soul.









Some people like new stuff, I love when it have a life.

DaddyZ, I smile here.

Chuck, yes it is also what I think when I hold them, and I promise I will treat them well in this chapter.

CJIII, ;-)

PurpLev, a second chance, life is sweet.

Lars, that was interesting. I think I will call the set 'mount Fuji star' I love the sound of that, and it will bring me beautiful pictures in my mind of Japanese landscapes. Thank you.

Don, as usually I am touched by your words.

ShopTinker, my grandfather learned me a life lesson I try to live by. 'If you borrow something, diliver it back better than when you got it', I belive this set now is brought back to life, and so I borrow it, since one day it will hopefully pass on to another soul that will use it. Yes I have too many chisels… I'm guilty. lol.

sprevratil, I soaked them in linseedoil yes, but also gave them a tour with Danish oil since this gives a better glow to the wood. This subject is of many meanings, some thin their oils to make them penetrate better, in Denmark our goverment restoration unit say this has nothing to it and that the terpentine people normally use to thin it with acually dry out the wood, but this is a subject with many answers arround. I belive that it is better to use the oil pure and then give it the time it need.
Yes, then a polish compound on a cotton wheel.

Chelios, yes the thoughts can easy go travel with one of these in the hand.

Brian, for me to be able to inspire are a gift from you to me also.

Wayne, my green friend, you get a warm tought from me here.

BC, I will look forward to se your restore, and it makes me smile just to think of it. Nothing is as revarding as making some old tools come back to life, no new purchase can bring me even a fragment of joy.

kenn, the wide Japanese chisels are usually not so long, so it looks worse than it is, this chisel will due to the hardness of the steal outlive me. I have used my new Japanese chisels for a while now, and I love them, I love the crisp edge, and the ability to hold it. I'm sure you will love yours to.

If the original masters sit up there on a sky and smile… We do not know, but I do love the thought.

Thank you all, and all my best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## littlecope

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


From faraway lands, across many seas, you bring another tale of love and re-birth Mads!!
Wonderful Story and a Marvelous Job on the Restoration… 
Enjoy!!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Mike, I hope life is showing you it's best sides.
Mads


----------



## racerglen

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderfull !
I've tried the oil soaking to get wood back, now I know why it didn't work for me..too impatient !
24 hours it is.


----------



## KentS

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I don't know whether to be inspired-or jealous!

They look fantastic

Thanks for sharing


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Kent, be inspired and jealous with joy that is both positive feelings.
Glen, yes time is the key here, 24 hours are not even long, if you have the patience leave it for a week. I don't recomend to thin the oil, but as I wrote there are many oppinions about this.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## SamuelP

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


mafe,

I have a box of chisels my father gave me that I have started tinker with.

It would make me happy to clean them up as you did these.

Thank you for the response.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> 
> *Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.*
> A little travel from trash to treasure…
> 
> *If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.
> 
> In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).
> 
> *Why do this?*
> To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what did I buy?
> At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
> They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
> He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the chisels.
> I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
> What this means time and use will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cutting tool looks like so.
> I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can't win them all…
> These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
> As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken handle could be replaced.
> But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
> So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT.
> A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
> A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
> I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
> Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
> What do you think?
> I think beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
> Do I really need to say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four handles passed the first step - four to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
> Acetone is good for this.
> The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
> And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
> First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
> This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
> This makes it as smooth as I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
> (Perhaps it was written in the stars).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
> So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
> Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
> Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what rises up from the ashes.
> It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
> (Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
> They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here they are, all with their own charms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I smile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
> (Just as I do with my knifes).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
> Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.
> 
> Links:
> My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
> My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
> Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


sprevratil, you have to do that! If they are even from your father, then no chisel will bring you such joy.
Just go for it!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*

*Japanese chisel box.*
Urban recycle project.

*Ok he lost it!*

This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.

Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.

Urban recycle what is that?
It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.









What is he talking about?
A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.









Samples comes out to put it apart.









When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
Of course this can be done with a handsaw.









Here is what I ended up with.
The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.









So first a cut up to clean the sides up.









And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.









I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.









Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.









Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.









Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.









Cut the two end pieces.









Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.









Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).









Time to glue.









Ends also.









Bottom up.
And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.









Tome to make the lid.
Plywood in the width of the box.









Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
Cut two of these.









It should look like this.









Glue, even when out of focus…









Pre drill and nails.
Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).









Three on a line.









End looks like this now.
Hope you get the big picture.









For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.









Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
*Now we need focus!*
The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
Place the lids end against the one opening.
Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.









Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
(This is not so clear so look at the last picture).









Pre drill.









Glue and nail.









Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.









To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.









Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.









The box is a reality
Time to smoke the pipe.
No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.









So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
Thank you Lulu.

Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Glorious. I love the sliding lid idea. Consider it stolen by me


----------



## steviep

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

What a great project and great story, I am sure LuLu loved it.

Also a great reminder that hopefully our kids will think back on us when they grow old and smell that old familiar smell of fresh cut wood.


----------



## ksSlim

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice!


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Every time I see you make a box I learn something wonderful.

Thanks for this one.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


<nothing>


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I keep looking out for nice bit of Danish urban recyclable wood. Mads can you imagine me on the way to the client site, telling the taxi driver to slam on the brakes and keep the meter running. Jumping out the cab and smashing up a piece of furniture that has been left by the side of the road. Throwing the bits in the trunk, dusting off my suit and jumping back in the taxi.

If that wasn't bad enough, imagine me walking into the client's office with a broken up chest of drawers under my arm like it was the most natural thing in the world. I think they might call the men in white coats to come and take me away. 

I am SO going to do it though!!!!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi guys,
Andy, yes that could be really cool, STOP! I can easy imagine you like this. My daughter sometimes shake her head when I arrive to pick her up with a pallet in the back seat or for table legs on the floor of the car, she even got stressed when I drowe her to shool and stopped three times to look for good wood. Now she take the train so I'm not up often at seven in the morning before the trash guys take it all, but perhaps I will have to take some morning rides to look again. My latest finds was some wonderful hardwood parasol, the rod is thick and round hardwood, perfect for the lathe. A shame you could not join us tonight.

Don, I laugh big time! Thank you.

RG, smile here, perhaps just not always woodworking…

Ksslim, cool.

StevieP, yes I hope so too, right now my daughter is on her way in the teenage years so she like to dislike, but I remember this clearly myself, and she have the most wonderful mind and heart so all roads are open.

Al, I stole it from the Japanese, so you are stealing from them - laugh.

Soda, yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

Best thoughts and thank you all for the sweet comments,
Mads


----------



## jiri

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great.


----------



## crossgrainww

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


What a great little box! Love that it's recycled.

Reminds me of this recent blog post by Kari Hultman and one of the comments references an interesting little video entitled The Story of Stuff


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


----------



## SamuelP

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Where did you get the marking knife? Or where did you get the steel to make the knife, as it is more likely you made it.

Great little box.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I got it from Germany…
http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717111/Marking-Knife.htm
But here are one from Japan:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Shouzou-Shiragaki-Japanese-Marking-Knife-12-18mm-9-/200547324234
No I did not make it, but it could be done from cuting of a piece of steel from a circular saw or a plane iron…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...*
> 
> *Japanese chisel box.*
> Urban recycle project.
> 
> *Ok he lost it!*
> 
> This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.
> 
> Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.
> 
> Urban recycle what is that?
> It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
> If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is he talking about?
> A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
> A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samples comes out to put it apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
> Of course this can be done with a handsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I ended up with.
> The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So first a cut up to clean the sides up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
> Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the two end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
> Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
> By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
> I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
> To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom up.
> And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the lid.
> Plywood in the width of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
> Cut two of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue, even when out of focus…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill and nails.
> Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three on a line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End looks like this now.
> Hope you get the big picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
> *Now we need focus!*
> The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
> Place the lids end against the one opening.
> Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
> Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
> (This is not so clear so look at the last picture).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
> Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box is a reality
> Time to smoke the pipe.
> No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
> Thank you Lulu.
> 
> Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Remember to check sizes.


----------



## mafe

*Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*

*Sumitsubo I* 
Japanese ink pot.









The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.

It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.

I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.

So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.









Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
Just free handing since it will be shaped later.









With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.









Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.









Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.









Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.









Larger hole, larger bit.









And the cleanup of the holes.









Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.









And we have a fish!!!
(Or kind of…).









The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.









My Supersander as always…
And then just sandpaper.









Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.









A hole with a long drill for the line.
You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.









A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.









Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
My lathe was not set up so it is faster.









And we have a wheel !!!









A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
Pure magic.









On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.









And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.









A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.









Then sandpaper.









Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.









And put the handle through.









I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.









We got a Sumitsubo - more or less. 
Man I did it!

I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627

Links:
Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2

Sumitsubo set up and use:
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458

Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,

*Best thoughts,* 
Mads


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice work Mads!

I do Japanese joinery but I use a modern sumitsubo as they're generally a bit less messy. Are you going to use the proper silk line for it or something else?

You'll need to make a sumisashi next


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Looks pretty cool. Looking forward to seeing it in use.


----------



## woodzy

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Looks great. 
I never really thought about the history of the chaulk line.
It only make sence that if your going to take the time to position and measure out 2 points in the hopes of joining those 2 points with a straight line that one would have a tool for such a task … ...

and more to the point i'm now sure (thanks to Mads) that Stanley didn't invent the chauld line : )

Can't wait to see the sumisashi that accompanies this great little tool.


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads caught a fish…or did the fish catch him?


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Awesome ink pot! You know I love the fishies. The "pulley" made on the drill press is a stroke of genius.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, you are amazing. I wouldn't even think of making my own chalk line. You've turn a simple un-thought of tool into a piece of art. I'm in awe of your imagination.

I'm Smiling here!


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Fantastic Mads! I love your wheel making jig. I can't help thinking it would have been quicker for you to set your lathe up though.  At least those of us who don't own a lathe know how to do it now. Can't wait for part 2.


----------



## racerglen

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Beautiful !
(but you are BUSTED ! A Surform.I think it was WayneC that got an antique Millers Falls surform and promptly tossed it.. ;-}


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


That is a cool tool,Mads. Your collection is getting close to priceless!

....................Jim


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wow that's a very nice and useful carving!


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


[email protected]


----------



## daltxguy

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


The trick with the invisible drill bits is to keep them sharp!
So long and thanks for all of the fish


----------



## 58j35bonanza

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I love it! 
Great topic to do a blog on. 
It was a new one for me.


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo I*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Sumitsubo* is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
> Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.
> 
> It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.
> 
> I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.
> 
> So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
> Just free handing since it will be shaped later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
> As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
> What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
> Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
> Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger hole, larger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the cleanup of the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a fish!!!
> (Or kind of…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Supersander as always…
> And then just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
> No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole with a long drill for the line.
> You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
> My lathe was not set up so it is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we have a wheel !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
> Pure magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
> But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
> If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put the handle through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
> Man I did it!
> 
> I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
> Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


good work as always, Mads


----------



## mafe

*Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*

*Sumitsubo II* 
Japanese ink pot.

This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.









This is where we ended last blog.









What I do here might seem destructive to some.
I dye the Sumitsubo black.
Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.









Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.









Hanging to dry.









Here the handle.









Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.









And sanding in between.









Last layer.









And here we are.
I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
It seems to work.
I don't know about you, but I really like it.









So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
Silk line - Tsuboito.
Wadding.
Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
(Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
I also bought a Japanese square.
(Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).









I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.









On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko* 
Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.









Big fish - little fish.









The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.









Time for the wadding.
App double than the size of the pot.









Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
Let the line run over.









Add ink chips.









The rest of the wadding on top.
Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink) 
Eating the big fish…









Many ways…









A little water on top.









The ink.









So we are ready to use it.
Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.









Run the line to the other end.
Lift the sting and snap it down.
Then you will have an ink line on the wood.









It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.









Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
Sumisashi lines.









The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).









And this is where this blog ends.
With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.

For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.

Links:
Japanese carpentry tools museum:
http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2

Sumitsubo set up and use:
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458

In use:





Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,

*Best thoughts,* 
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great tutorial Mads. Thanks for taking the time to document it for us.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wait, what? no source for bamboo? how about the disposable sticks at asian restaurants?
Love the finish you chose, though I'd have stained the carved parts in red for more visibility


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very interesting Mads. I guess black is the only choice for a project like that. Do you have to clean it out after every use or is there a way of keeping the ink and wadding in it without it drying out? It seems like a lot of trouble to go to just to draw a line. What's your view?


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Glad to see you got all the parts you needed and top marks for getting a sashigane

Brit - The wadding dries up but you can usually revive it with a bit of water.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very cool, my friend. You sure find the most unique tools to make and do such fine job producing them!

Thanks for the tutorial on making one….................Jim


----------



## hObOmOnk

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Ichiban!


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Love the small fish/ big fish look !
Great work ones again Mads.


----------



## hObOmOnk

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hey mafe:

Here's an idea for your next Sumitsubo.


----------



## hObOmOnk

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hey Mafe:

Here's a link to some interesting Sumitsubo that I saw recently: Sindelar Museum.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi,

Hobo, what a wonderful museum and some beautiful tools, I could spend days there. I am really into the Japanese tools these days, just received another plane and some hand drills, as I said before, it is the Zen in this, the simplicity, it is really amazing.
I might have to throw the towel for the big one…
Ichiban, had to look that one up, and smiled after thank you.

llwynog, it made me think of the famous business book 'eating the big fish' so I smile when I look at them.









Autumn, I smile all over the face now, thank you, also I have the color of the Ume 'plum blossom'.

Jim Jakosh, I admit it, I like making these tools, I'm addicted need help even, but it keeps my head busy and my heart full.

meikou, yes the parts arrived, I think I might go for liquid ink since it is faster to get to rerun once dry. But it has been a wonderful learning and I felt so good when it was working (proud in a way).

Andy, no you don't need to clean after each use, just rewet it and it should be fine. But yes our chalk line might be easier, or a modern Japanese ink line, but they will never give the smile that this one gives, and that alone has a value in my universe, smiles.

Sodabowski, I choose the black since I wanted to use it with black ink and found it as a wonderful contrast to the oak planes and tools. Chop sticks, yes why not I might try just for fun.

Wayne, the pleasure is all on my sides this was a true learning project, learning and fooling around in a nice harmony.

Thank you all for your wonderful and warm comments.
The very best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)*
> 
> *Sumitsubo II*
> Japanese ink pot.
> 
> This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we ended last blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do here might seem destructive to some.
> I dye the Sumitsubo black.
> Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
> Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sanding in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are.
> I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
> It seems to work.
> I don't know about you, but I really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
> Silk line - Tsuboito.
> Wadding.
> Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
> Bamboo Marking Pen - *Sumisashi*.
> (Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
> I also bought a Japanese square.
> (Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped *Karuko*
> Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fish - little fish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the wadding.
> App double than the size of the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
> Let the line run over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add ink chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the wadding on top.
> Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
> Eating the big fish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ways…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little water on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are ready to use it.
> Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run the line to the other end.
> Lift the sting and snap it down.
> Then you will have an ink line on the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
> Sumisashi lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square *Sashigane* is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is where this blog ends.
> With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.
> 
> For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.
> 
> Links:
> Japanese carpentry tools museum:
> http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2
> 
> Sumitsubo set up and use:
> http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458
> 
> In use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


----------



## mafe

*Sharpening station for water stones the base*

*Sharpening station* 
for water stones the base.

I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book. 
At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.

Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…









So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.









So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.









In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.

*The setup is this*:
320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
1000 Shapton for sharpening.
3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).

Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.

All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).

*I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
A diamond stone on wood base.
Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).









Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?









The base for the stones.
First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.









Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.









Like this.
Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.









Then a cut from the end.









Like so.









We now have a base that can hang between to bars.









My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…









Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).









Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.









Some more.









And the rest!









Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.









And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.









With a chisel paring out the rest.









Can you guess why?









A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.









And we got us a wedge!









Repeat…









Cut to length.









The base needs some shaping.
First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.









Then a water stop, later you will see why.









To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).









To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.









A little fine family.









Do I need to say oil?









Lin seed oil.
And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.

I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.

Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,

*Best thoughts,* 
Mads


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


That's a great tip about the wedge. I was wondering how you hold the stone to the wood until you showed the wedge.

you are going to have some serious muscles on your forarm if you sharpen all your tool collection…

Thanks for the wonderfull post.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


My ohh Ian I almost spitted all the whisky out of my mouth as I read your last comment!
Big laugh here.
Do not worry I will do it as needed.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## 3DBMe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


In depth as usual. Thanks


----------



## mook

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Holy macaroodle, Mads you have gone plum overboard with sharpening now…...I thought you might be opening a shop for sharpening equipment ( (
Ofcourse I noted the wonderful Kingstones amongst the piles there, and (not to grind on about this particular idiosyncrasy of mine ) would like to add that I have been using kerosene in place of water on my Kingstone 1200 for at least ten years now with no disadvantage and every advantage. I find it cuts fast and stays "wet", with no rust or staining effect. And I dress it as needed for both condition and flatness with a cheap diamond plate glued to a piece of wood.
P.S: I have nominated for membership of the ALCS (American Legion of Crazy Sharpsters).


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


gee mafe…i think i could have bought 10 sets of new chisels for that price…..)...but it would not been as cool looking as this new set up…and oh the mirror finish…i know you will get what you wished for, boy they look good, and sharp…great post….....now…would i , could i spend that for stones….....uh…nope…


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


holy crap!! That's how sharpening should be done.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


there you are gone crazy Mads …you didn´t need to buy two flattening stones 
the 200 grit wuold have been enoff to dress the 320 gritt stone and then used that for a 600 
and the diamond for the rest …. just a too late thought … 

is it Ipé you have used for the bases …. good choise … but hard on the tools :-(
though I admit its looking realy good 
where did you bought it to that low price 

I think you forgot to think deep enoff when you mounted the saw … lol 
considering that it is a festtool … they shuold have covered that too …. what a bummer they made 
I think they will be happy to see that picture …............
glad you shared that tip too ….............time to think Mads … what to do….. what to do….lol

as usual a great blog from you 

take care
Dennis


----------



## fernandoindia

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great blog Mads.

A collection of stones for a fine collection of tools !

Water stones? neither one thing nor the other. the opposite


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


looks like yer gonna do some serious sharpening Mads. have fun. awesome stone holders


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice stuff mate! Are you going to build a pond for the stones?


----------



## tsangell

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Your tools will be so sharp you will simply look at a board and it will sprout shavings.

On another note, we share a love of linseed oil. What a glorious substance.


----------



## mpmitche

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great looking work as usual; can't wait to see the rest! I'd love to hear how that flattening stone works for you. I've read such mixed reviews on the ones offered on this side of the pond by Norton.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great blog, Mad.


----------



## Tootles

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Always up to something interesting Mads. Looking forward to the next part of the blog.


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Seems as if you always manage to keep prodding us to revisit to "old but true" ways of doing things. I have some Brazilian walnut that would make some nice bases if you'll come by the shop, we'll have a beer and make a few. Then you can show me how to do this.

Perhaps it is better if the beer comes after!!!!!!!!


----------



## ShopTinker

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the base*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the base.
> 
> I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
> At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
> But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.
> 
> Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
> 320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.
> 
> *The setup is this*:
> 320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
> 1000 Shapton for sharpening.
> 3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
> 8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
> And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
> I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).
> 
> Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.
> 
> All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).
> 
> *I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system*.
> A diamond stone on wood base.
> Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
> Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
> And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the stones.
> First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a cut from the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a base that can hang between to bars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a chisel paring out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guess why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got us a wedge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base needs some shaping.
> First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a water stop, later you will see why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
> Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fine family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to say oil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lin seed oil.
> And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.
> 
> I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


That's a very attractive little family you have there. I look forward to seeing you put them to use. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mafe

*Sharpening station for water stones the pond*

*Sharpening station* 
for water stones the pond.

This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.

Today no 'funny' comments…









Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.









First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
(The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).









A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.









Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.









It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.









Saw the tenon.
First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.









As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).









And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
(I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).









Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.









Now I can mark up for the mortise.
With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
As close to the tenon as possible.









My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.









Then the ends are freehanded.
(I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).









Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.









And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.









Now we have a box!
The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place. 
To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better. 
(This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).









With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.









When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.









Here we are after a little sanding.
The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.









To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.









And then use round stock for wedges also.
(The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).









I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
(Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).









So here we have a sharpening station.
I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.









And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.









Ok I spoke a lot about water…
First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
(It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).









So careful marking with a scriber.









From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.









Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.









And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.









For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.









The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.









Test fitting the pond - it fits!









Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.









So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.









The big test!
Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).









Sesam Sesam open up.









The pond in place so now water will stay inside.









A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.









Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.









That's it!
No still something is missing!!!









Yes now I am happy!
And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.

Thank you for watching.

Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,

*Best thoughts,* 
Mads


----------



## ShopTinker

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


All balanced and harmonious ready for some Zen sharpening.

Your little stone made me smile.


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very creative, top notch mate.

I think I'm going to have to take up pipe smoking


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! That's better. The Mads we know and love is back and WHAT a comeback. Great blog Mads and great design.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice work, Mad.


----------



## daltxguy

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


beautiful work, Mads. I hope someday to have such an inspiring setup. For now I will have to make do with good stones, a bucket of water and a piece of plywood and a neoprene rubber mat!


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


GENIUS meets ZEN. I would expect nothing else. Wonderful!


----------



## TechRedneck

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads

You always amaze me. All recycled wood and built to last! Can't beat that.


----------



## WoodBill

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


You honestly should have a t.v. show! I'd watch every episode! Smiles Mads.


----------



## Tootles

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


It's fitting that you are doing blogs on Japanese tools - your blogs always have that sense of flow and harmony about them. They are a pleasure to read.

By the way, not sure if you did this, so for any who does not know, to solder zinc plate successfully you should first etch the areas that will be joined using a little hydrochloric of similar acid - just touch some one with a somall brush and then rinse off afterwards. That said, Mads your soldered joints look quite respectable actually. And as you said, it doesn't leak so you must have done a good job.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


My Oh My!! Very nice work Mads. I get tired just following your blogs. Do you ever sleep?


----------



## mpmitche

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Outstanding work once again. It is so much more elegant than the kitchen sink and a wet counter top like I use!


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Terrific Mads, as always a great tutorial and pics. Thanks for the post!


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I think it is one thing to think about a project such as this and quite another to do the photographyand then take all the time to download and post them in a blog. You're my hero Mads. Nice work


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi there,

Ken, it is really just habbit now, I always have my camera on the worktable and shoot away as I work, the photo editing is done by batch and shortcuts and I use copy paste for the blogs, so perhaps I spend a hour or so extra on a blog, I think that is worth it, and I enjoy making it also. And yes it do make me happy when I see others get inspired or even better when someone makes their version and write a notice to me, or just all of your guys kind, funny or useful comments. Thank you!

JJW, ;-)

mpmitche, sound so laugh.

Topa, yes I sleep, and due to my health I work strange hours when my body allow me, and only then, but since I am retired I do get to give it a good go when all the factors allow me and then I am in woodworking heaven, with good tobacco, music and a big smile.

Tootles, thank you for the solder advice, I had no idea, the solder I use do have some fluss inside, and I did brush it with something called soldering fluid first, but no acid, this I will do next time - I will cross my fingers that my work will stay tight.

Bill, no TV show here, I'm too shy laugh (I'm not sure people would not zap off also, it's just us wood geeks that are into that)!

Tech, smiles here.

Bertha, GENZEN sharpening station - lol.

daltxguy, it sound sharp!

CJ, love that comment.

Andy, yes I have been a little off the hook, my neck has been killing me for a while and my arms are hurting these days, so I have not been able to spend so much shop time as I wanted even some here disagree laugh,
This project has been a long waiting wish, so when I got to make it I wanted it to be just the way i wanted.

meikou, I don't inhale, so i guess it can't be too bad to smoke a pipe every to days or so.

ShopTinker, happy it worked, the stone is acually brought home from Brittany in France where I collected stones with the kids and we went home and painted them.

Thank you all for the warm and wonderful comments, they do makes me smile and they do fill me up with joy and the energy to continue blogging (but don't stop writing for that reason).
The best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


thank you Mads for saving me from an overthinked project I had come up with
now I can scrap my horrible drawing and start all over 
great picturebook as usual  keep let them coming 
great upcycling I like you changed the design and used the old dish mat for the bottom 
I have to get me a new hat so I can tip it for you

take care
Dennis


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very nice Mads. : ^ )


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks for the Holy water joke. That made me smile just as you intended.


----------



## PaBull

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mads, it's funny, I have been wanting to make me one of these stations for quite some time. I just needed some inspiration. Got it, and you solved some of the issues I had making this thing, thanks. But what a beauty this sharpening stations is!!
Thanks for this blog!!
Pabull.


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


what a wonderful repurposing of materials….. and without a pipe it is never complete.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi ho heysan,

PurpLev, smiles and smokes.
Pa, yes and you have hardwood pallets even! This will be really cool.
RG, perhaps I found the holy grale! Perhaps I'm just not too sharp.
Wayne, ;-)_o

Best thoughts and thank you guys,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Interesting link: http://greenwood-carving.blogspot.com/2010_09_01_archive.html
Lots on sharpening Japanese style.


----------



## PaBull

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


cool!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


;-)


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


thank´s for the link Mads …. very very interresting 

take care
Dennis


----------



## JaTom

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Beautiful!

Any particular reason for using a veneerhammer?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Sharpening station for water stones the pond*
> 
> *Sharpening station*
> for water stones the pond.
> 
> This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.
> 
> Today no 'funny' comments…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
> I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
> Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
> (The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw the tenon.
> First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
> (I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can mark up for the mortise.
> With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
> As close to the tenon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ends are freehanded.
> (I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
> I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have a box!
> The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
> To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
> (This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are after a little sanding.
> The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then use round stock for wedges also.
> (The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
> On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
> (Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have a sharpening station.
> I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I spoke a lot about water…
> First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
> So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
> (It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So careful marking with a scriber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting the pond - it fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The big test!
> Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sesam Sesam open up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pond in place so now water will stay inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
> The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
> I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> No still something is missing!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes now I am happy!
> And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.
> 
> Thank you for watching.
> 
> Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


No Jacob, just that it has a wide head so I could bend with it. Well seen.
Smiles and thank you,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*

*Japanese planing board*
Japanese workbench

Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.

*Get started MaFe.*

So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!

Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).









So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.









We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
(If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).









Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.









The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.









Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.









Here the three planes and their shaves.
Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.









Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
More of this later.









And marked up with my line.
(This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).









At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.









Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…









This is the idea.
(And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).

*From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
.









So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.









Yes I took it to the garden.
To smell nature and wood mix.
And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…









From another view (snail cam).









And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.









Long beautiful shaves.









The stop works excellent.









The shooting board function is fine too - but…
I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
Tough luck MaFe.









But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.









Straight end!









This is it.









I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.









Need I say more?









In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.











Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.

Links:

Japanese using a planing board: 




Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Fantastic, as usual, Mads!

I am intrigued with the device on the end of your chalk line. Could you tell me what it is?

Thanks,


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Lew.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


very good Mads. I'm so glad your back. I'm not sure I'm a ''sit on the ground and work'' kind of guy, but the ideas are interesting. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice work, Mads. Glad to see you back already. Here's to hoping you do this project as your better half works… and not that the honeymoon is already over. Pace yourself, Mads. ;=)


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


This is a great blog for sure Mads. Really enjoyed this…and what a really cool bench! I really like the sliding dovetails for attaching the bottom legs. Great video too. Thanks for sharing it and enjoy the shavings!


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Neat.
Wow, I can appreciate the work involved. Good for you.
Those are some of the coolest shavings I have seen.

Steve


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads - You need to post a few pictures of this on the Workbench Smackdown thread.

It looks great and I'm sure it works well too if you made it. I have one question though. Where does the leg vise go?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads






You can stand Don.
;-)


----------



## rayn

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very interesting Mads Like Don .I would have a problem with sit on the ground working …mostly trying to get up again. Age can affect or modify your activities The use of hand tools is an art


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I can appreciate the work you have done on your beam. I few months back I read through Scott Landis's book on workbenches. I was very impressed by the simplicity and efficiency that the Japanese woodworker's employ. I am just beginning my hand tool journey so I'm not sure that I am ready to incorporate the methods of the Japanese woodworker just yet. I do look forward to reaching that point.


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks, Mads! I must speak to my good (?) friend, who is a Stanley tool salesman, and find out why he hasn't dropped one of these off ;^)


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice work. My first order of woodworking tools were Japanese and I'm about to try them out on my first project. If I get along with them then I'll get more and need one of these.


----------



## SamuelP

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Congrats on the new toy. More inspiration…


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


BTW, this seems a bit more manageable to move than the 6"x6" 15 foot planing beam from his book


----------



## BigTiny

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Konichi-wa, MaFe san. Ichi ban bench, my friend! Odate would be proud of you.

Paul


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

Great to see you've gone down the road of the deshi. I was moving away from the Japanese tools but now I'm having second thoughts.

Next time you use the beam you should dress more like Odate-san here
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m17hcb5b491rrjg3go1_1280.jpg


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Did you notice the planing beam next to the wall on the left side of the photo?


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads, glad to see you back at woodworking! that is a very nice traditionally made bench. You area true craftmsna and have a sweet collection of hand planes to do the job! A true rhykenologist, my friend!!
...................Cheers, Jim


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Good work Mads. I admire the Japanese hand woodworking methods and tools. Very minimalistic, but effective. I also like the respect they have for their tools and their work, much like yourself.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I most say its looking better in the live version ….. maybee have something to do 
with the quantum of Mads´s coffee inbord 

thanks for sharing the build Mads enjoyd them 

take care
Dennis


----------



## NateMeadows

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I truly admire your resolve to try new things. I also admire the art of Japanese woodworking! I don't know if I am nibble enough to do it, but it looks awesome! Thank you for sharing.

Very Respectfully,

Nate


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Way to go Mads! I like it.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Looks good, mad.


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I really like the shooting board stand….any thoughts on making it longer to use for shooting edges while they lay on their face?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi there,
Thank you all for the comments.

RG, sweet idea.

Beginning, you too!

Dr. Ken, smiles here.

Nate, basically I'm just a big child, but I see on your floor you know that feeling.

Dennis, ;-) yes you have seen it live.

Mike, minimalistic I guess that is also what facinate me the most about it.

Jim, yes I have passed the houndred planes Dennis counted last time he visited so I am a mad Ryno no doubt. Now I wonder if I one day will start selling or if I will keep the love for all of them in each their way.

Tex, yes I did, and I am going to make me one also, just did not meet the right piece of wood.

meikou, dress… I just bought a beautiful old Kimono perhaps I should use it for woodworking…

Paul, Odates book is amazing, it was really got me hooked, that man is so amazing to listen to.
domo arigato gozaimasu = thank you

Sam, ;-)

Lew, I have a feeling you will wait a long time then…

Doug, no hurry, I am also just begining and see the rad as never ending.

Ray, yes we need to keep the body fit to sit, but quite fast the body will adapt, perhaps if we carry too many extra kilos we need a little food change also, smiles.

Andy, I will show you leg wise later. I have posted on the thread now.

Steve, nothing like shaves.

JJW, smiles here.

david, this one was made before the move, the pictures from my old workshop and garden. Like some of the following posts in this series.

Best thoughts to all of you,
Mads


----------



## BigTiny

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Do itashima********************a, Mads-san. (you're welcome)

Paul


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads







A little video.
Smiles,
MaFe


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Your shop makes me smile. Thanks for sharing Mads. I look forward to seeing that toolchest you are working on. The theme seems to be "simplicity"....we could all use more of that in our lives.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Smiles RG, hope you are full in your heart.
Best thoughts buddy,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


----------



## rhybeka

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Awesome blog post Mads! I just stumbled on this today when I was thinking on making a small planing bench in my basement so I might be able to work on my planing skill during the winter - when it's too cold to work in my non heated garage shop!

-Becky


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench*
> 
> *Japanese planing board*
> Japanese workbench
> 
> Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
> It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.
> 
> *Get started MaFe.*
> 
> So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a *planing board*!
> 
> Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
> I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
> The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
> (If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
> Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
> I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the three planes and their shaves.
> Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
> More of this later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marked up with my line.
> (This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
> Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the idea.
> (And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).
> 
> *From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails. *
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I took it to the garden.
> To smell nature and wood mix.
> And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From another view (snail cam).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long beautiful shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop works excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shooting board function is fine too - but…
> I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
> Tough luck MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need I say more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.
> 
> Links:
> 
> Japanese using a planing board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Becky,
I love it, it is useful for so many tasks and I find it beautiful too.








In the new shop.


----------



## mafe

*Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*

*Japanese saw horses*
floor horses

This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.










Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
And do not forget a cold beer….









Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
(Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).









Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.









Before and after Japanese plane.









Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.









Now drill a hole all the way through.









Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.









Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…









Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.









Do you get the idea?









Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
(The detail will come later).









Ok I was lazy…









And cleaned up again.









To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on. 
This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
(Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).









Shaping the shoulders.
Of course it could have been done by hand.









Getting closer.









Help…









Clean up.









More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
(Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).









Making some dowels for the feet.
This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.









Glue them in.
I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.









I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.









And cut it of flush.









Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.









Here we are Japanese saw horses.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Links:
Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


As always, Mads, a very well thought out picture essay of your project.


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very nice project. When I figure out if I could use them with my bad back I'm gonna make me some of these.


----------



## murch

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads - once again you have delivered a very detailed and interesting blog. Thanks. It was a fun read.

Also (I have to say this) for a guy who says he doesn't have a work-shop, you seem
to have a pretty well stocked work-shop! What's the story?


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


thanks for the picturebook Mads 
as usual a pleasurre to look at 

Dennis


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Lovely post as always


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice job! Thank you for sharing your inspiring work.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## FirehouseWoodworking

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

Very well done, sir!

Cheers!


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice job Mads. For the next project though, please can we see some Japanese saw action? The Festool just isn't right for a project like this. 

You remind me of a song from the 1980s by The Vapors called 'Turning Japanese.' The lyrics in the chorus were:
"Turning Japanese, I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so."

Funny you should post this now because I made some trestle feet last weekend for a 6' x 6' double-sided notice board. Looking forward to seeing the ponies in use.


----------



## hObOmOnk

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Here are the steps that I use to cut the lobed edges with nothing but Japanese saws, chisels and rasps.

1 - Layout
2 - Make diagonal cut with saw to remove most of the wood.
3 - Make two small notch cuts with saw.
4 - Round the lobes with chisels and rasps.










Hope this helps.
Bro. Tenzin


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads…..just great…..I love this new series of creativity with the Japanese methods. Really inspiring my friend.

All the best and keep the great blogs coming!

Joe


----------



## bko

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads,

Very nice, as always! I too love those little Japanese brass clamps. I bought a handful at the Japanese Woodworker in Alameda CA USA, but I was lucky enough to have a morning free when in Japan on business where I went to the store Tokyo Hands. What an amazing store with many floors of art, craft, and household items-worth the extra effort if you ever get over there. I had to hold back to make sure I could fit all my loot in my suitcase!

-Brian


----------



## phtaylor36

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, I love it! I have never seen the bamboo technique, I like the idea. Pretty soon you will be shaving with those Japanese planes…


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads

A very cool project

Welcome to the floor.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful work as always Mads. I hope you will continue to post in English as I'm not too good with Japanese, even though I did spent quit a lot of time in Japan in my youth. No woodworking there unfortunately, but I did gain an appreciation of the simple, yet sophisticated way they do things there. Woodworking is a very good example of that. I hope these benches you are making will keep you in business until you find a suitable shop location.


----------



## Boatman53

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


This a great little project. I recommend them to everyone that comes to my shop. If you don't know how you would use them don't worry they have many uses. I made over the years about 4 pairs. They elevate glue-ups providing clamp space, I use them for holding those clip on lights just where I need them, and for me they are small enough to take inside boats and use as a work surface.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi ho,
Summer is in Copenhagen these days, so I have been at the beach.
Ohhh yes and in Jylland (another part of Denmark).
So no LJ.
Now back to see the comments.
Yes some might think back breaking project, but first of all these are made for Japanese style woodworking, this is really not as back breaking as some might think since you pull and don't push, in fact I am due to my health in a quite bad condition and yet it is really gentle to my body to work this way - but I am still quite flexible and do not have too much extra kilos, these factors might have a influence.
Yes they are great for using as table top horses, since they can lift the wood off the table, kind of like the tabletop workbenches I see on LJ.
I promise I will keep writing in English (my Danish English).
Have to admit I am not just lazy when I use powertools, I have had a operation that have put me in a situuation where I need to measure my effeorts, I simply have to take care of my resourses and so I use powertools sometimes when my body will not allow me to use the handtools (I am retired due to a neck operation).





So cool.

For the workshop, the pictures were taken in the old shop that I have left now…

Best thoughts and thank you for the interesting, funny and kind words,
Mads


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese saw horses*
> floor horses
> 
> This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
> First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
> And do not forget a cold beer….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
> (Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after Japanese plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
> (The detail will come later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I was lazy…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cleaned up again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
> This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
> (Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the shoulders.
> Of course it could have been done by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
> (Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some dowels for the feet.
> This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue them in.
> I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut it of flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japanese saw horses.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
> Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
> Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

Summer of the Danes eh (I have a book by that title). Since I have a bad neck as well, do you have trouble looking down over these and your planing board?

Tony


----------



## mafe

*Japanese toolbox - thoughts*

*Japanese toolbox*
大工の道具箱

I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.


At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.

Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .

But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.

*The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
So sit back and enjoy.









One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
So why do I show this picture?
To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.









This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.









Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.









The inside, elegant.









So finally!
A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
Pine for low price.
Nails for fast making.
Handles for carry.
Thin wood for light weight (low price).
The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…









This one with a drawer.









This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).









Slim and simple.









Larger, double drawers with lock.









New use…









Absolutely charming!









How can you not love this.
If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…









At work.
The box is used as a holder for the planes.









Or to store them.









Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
Quite amazing in a way.









The closest I get to a historical proof… 
But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/









Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.









Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
Japanese woodworking school.
http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1









This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.









Back to the future…
This is where we are today - nice legs.









This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
(Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).









And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…









But back to our friend.
Back to the traditional toolbox.









Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
And yes it is probably all we need to get started.









Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.









And the basic tool set.
I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.









And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html









The result - elegant!









And later one for plane storage.










Here my conclusion:
Low price light weight wood: pine.
Thin planed boards for low weight.
No hardware.
Size that I can easy carry.
Proportions slim for elegancy.
A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.





This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Links:
Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


You always manage to find interesting things to bring to light. I enjoyed the history lesson and insight into a traditional woodworking method. Good job as always, Mads!


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


You lost me at the legs - nice everything in this "tool box" on heels


----------



## theSawdustSurfer

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Japanese toolboxes and work methods is new to me, this was very inspiring. made me interested . I think I´m going to make a japanese toolbox this summer . 
Thanks


----------



## craftsman on the lake

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


a cool read.. thanks.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very interesting and a neat way to do it. Thanks for sharing,Mads!
..............Jim


----------



## BrandonW

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice Mads! I loved looking at all the photos. That black plastic tool box with the padding is from this site, I just don't remember who posted it.


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

what a great blog.

I'm trying to get off the floor

Now I wonder if I'm wrong

jamie


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


very cool, and definitely very different approach than western perspectives.

looking forward to seeing these challenges taken and overtaken Mads. gonna be great!

What I like most about the japanese approach is the unique joinery they use that does not require glue or nails. those were always very inspiring


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, I wish you all the best as you continue on your Japanese woodworking journey. It inspires me to consider employing some of the techniques used by the crafstman of Japan.


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great pictorial tour through the world of Japanese tool boxes, I really enjoyed it, thanks for sharing.


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice Elegant Simple Boxes, Bravo !!! Back when I was A teenager I Had a penpal from Japan, We traded all sorts of things. I still have a fishing Lure He sent to Me.


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I've got a plan for one of those. I like the construction of it. I found it interesting in Odate's book that if it's not nailed (i.e. dovetailed, tenoned, etc) that traditional Japanese craftsmen would look funny at you (red neck paraphrase). I wonder what they think of the plastic ones-- maybe that's why they have the girl


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


i have to say mads , there is a lot here i have not had exposure to, and i saw some video that showed oriental wood workers , using there methods and such, it was amazing. and opens so many doors of thought here…thanks so much…so much to learn , and so little time, but….i will enjoy the journey….and oh what a journey it is…...grizz


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mafe,
Great blog post, as usual.
I love this video series.

Just one detail, the military box is actually not a toolbox per say : it is a storage/carrying box for army telephones… But you can see the relation in shapes all the same.

Cheers,


----------



## Bearpie

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very interesting but dang, with my bad knees and back, I don't believe I would be able to work and sit on the floor like they do! I'm just not flexible anymore.


----------



## kenn

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


It's fun watching you go down this path. I loved the video, that craftsman knew what he was doing (flush cut saw and $1,000 in clamps …no way!). Keep educating us as you journey.


----------



## Doe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Arigato gozaima********************a! I would really like to try one.


----------



## peteg

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I love the way you always do your homework Mads & then take us on a journey of interest.
)
Pete


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


So Interesting!

I have to agree with Bearpie- don't think my knees could take that position for long.


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


and mads answer this please, why do they do there wood working on there knees, i know there a very spiritual people and i really respect there ways, but i just want to know …


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great blog Mads. Informative, interesting and inspiring. Thanks for posting!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads 
great blog … glad you finely made this serie

I like the bycicle and the idea behind it

in the second picture with planes its a little funny to see the E.C: Emierich / Ulmia planes 
if its an Japanese box since it has a more western type lid on it

of the modern plasticboxes 
the black is used by photographers to protect the gear from moistier in the air 
and is also used as an outer box to give more protection used in exspeditons 

the Festool box is one Festool either has made for the tooltote with tools that is sold with tools 
or it just happens to be that the box Festool make by accidently fits the tote 

anyway I look forward to see the toturial about your own box 
since you always are good for a new idea/solution …. yes we very well know 
it has become a new tradition here on L J ….. you have to come up with a new interesting thing 
nomatter how traditionel you try to approach something …. LOL

good to have you back on the line 
take care
Dennis


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi guys,

Dennis, no the second is not Japanese, as I say it just reminds me.
The systainer http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/718804/Systainer-with-Japan-DICK-Tool-Carrier-fully-equipped-19-items.htm 
I hope I will not disapoint you. ;-)
Grizz, this is not for me to answer, but I think tradition and respect is the key words.
JJW - Lew - Doe - Pete - Bearpie - Fabrice - DaddyZ - Mauricio - Doug - Jim - lakecraftsman, ;-)
Ken, yes a plasure to see this guy work.
Texchappy, yes that girl is needed.
Sharon, yes that is so amazing.
Jamie, stay there, the floor is much bigger than a bench!
Brandon, yes I think it is a LJ project.
Henrik, do so it is worth the efford.
Thomas, nothing better than to be lost with high heals.
Ken, I smile.
Thank you all for the comments, i look forward to start the build blog soon,
Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


you never disapoint me …. ))

my mistake about the second toolbox picture … hadn´t catched the text correct 
but on the other hand I have never been a great reciever in handball …. 

I just ran thrugh all the blogs in this serie most for the first time ….. great serie Mads

have a good weekend

Dennis


----------



## Boxguy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

What a joy to read such a blog that has been lovingly assembled and embodies the best of what this website can do. This is well researched, well organized, and well written. Among my favorite images is the carefully tended bicycle with the side car, tool box, and useful layout. It speaks worlds of the owner. Thanks for all you taught me today.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## KentS

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Awesome blog!!

Thanks


----------



## jonagnew

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads,

Just like to say how much I've enjoyed reading your blog since discovering it a couple of weeks ago. Your previous chisel box project actually inspired me to make a japanese toolchest before you began this project. I borrowed from some western toolchest designs and put 2 removable/slidable trays in mine to hold some of the smaller and more delicate tools. Kind if wish I had waited though as I think yours is going to make me rethink my design.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi ho,
Kent, thanks right back.
Jonagnew, thank you, that is really nice of you to tell me it does make a difference. I would love to see your box, pls post it. No matter when we make something, we can always see changes after that we should have done - I think they call it learning - smiles. I am sure your box is just perfect as it is.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WoodBill

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very cool Mafe!!!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Bill,
Big smile here.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## lcwood

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


"Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods." 
as your wish!

it is in my to do list since your post here


----------



## Phil32

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


This blog rekindled my interest in Japanese woodworking tools & methods. I was on a hiking and culture trip there this year. As a woodcarver I was excited to find a cutlery shop that also offered carving tools. This business was founded in 1208 by a samurai sword maker! I bought this five chisel set and found them to be sharp and effective.


----------



## gmn216

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great article! Thank you for sharing. I have searched but unable to find more history on the Japanese Toolbox. In the style that uses the angled piece of wood to lock the lid in place, the lid can be inverted and locked into place with the angled wood piece. This provides a work space. Was the lid used that way?
Thank you.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - thoughts*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
> The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.
> 
> 
> At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.
> 
> Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .
> 
> But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.
> 
> *The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
> Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.*
> So sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
> This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
> The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
> So why do I show this picture?
> To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
> The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
> My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
> A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside, elegant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So finally!
> A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
> Pine for low price.
> Nails for fast making.
> Handles for carry.
> Thin wood for light weight (low price).
> The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
> So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one with a drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
> Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger, double drawers with lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New use…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely charming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can you not love this.
> If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At work.
> The box is used as a holder for the planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or to store them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
> Quite amazing in a way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest I get to a historical proof…
> But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
> Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
> http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
> Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
> Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
> Japanese woodworking school.
> http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the future…
> This is where we are today - nice legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
> Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
> (Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to our friend.
> Back to the traditional toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
> And yes it is probably all we need to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the basic tool set.
> I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
> Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
> http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The result - elegant!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And later one for plane storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my conclusion:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> Links:
> Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
> http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi,

Icwood, Nice one. I am really happy to be able to inspire, big smile thank you. It is how I got inspired my self. Thank you for being so kind to tell it.

Phil32, Wauuu they are beautiful, what a lovely set. So happy to be able to share my joy and even get feed back like this, big smile.

gmn216, yes I have seen that version, I think that there are as many versions as there are wood workers. So my best guess will be that yes, thus has also been used that way, but not in general, en general you do little woodworking, when on site, where you will use a small surface like that and if you do, you will bring a pair of supports or a planing board.

Best of my thoughts, your comments makes the blogging worth doing,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*

*Japanese toolbox*
大工の道具箱









As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.

My conclusion was:
Low price light weight wood: pine.
Thin planed boards for low weight.
No hardware.
Size that I can easy carry.
Proportions slim for elegancy.
A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.

And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).









Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.

For the marking:
The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
The sides full length.
The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
The rest is clear to see on the drawing.









The wood.
Pine.
As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.









First I cut them to width on both sides.









This is what I came up with…









Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…









Wood is waiting MaFe…









And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.









And this is what it ended up with.
Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
But at least now some fine boards for free.









Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.









I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.









Now back to the work of the hand.
I plan the boards for the glue up.









To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.









Then plan and see when it's all gone.









Like so.









And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.









Lots of shaves - I love it!









Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.









Boards for one side.









Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.









Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.









And cut to length.
I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).









Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.









Hand cut.









Circular saw.









First impressions…









It might be a box success…
(Ok you are not funny MaFe).









Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.









The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.









Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.









Now cut of one end.









And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.









This is where we are now.
With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.

I will split the blog here and continue soon.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## madts

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads: This is too much fun to watch. Cannot wait for the next episode.


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great Blog Mads

I'm really enjoying it.

jamie


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


oooooh, I like this one.


----------



## KentS

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Interesting

Thanks!


----------



## sb194

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great blog as usual. Looking forward to the finished product.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


great job Mads.


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I am inspired and smiling.
You are one of a kind sir.

Thanks for the tour,
Steve


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very nice as always! Thanks for sharing Mads.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice blog, Mads. I can't wait to see the finish product. I like how you selected your parameters, my friend!!
...................Jim


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I think you made a mistake somewhere Mads. Your box looks better than the Japanese ones. Fun blog. I'm looking forward to the next part.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Loving this blog post of yours, as always. You're such a dream seller


----------



## theSawdustSurfer

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very neat! can´t wait for part two


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I think you are going to force me to make one of these. I saw an ammo box over the weekend, nails and a simple latch and some cheap wood…not far off from this and yet it can hold so much with the right care.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## bko

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads,

Nice work and great proportions! I have always wanted to build one of these and I think you will push me over the edge.

You don't say what the final thickness of the pine boards was. It looks like about 3/8" or 9-10mm. Is that about right? That is thinner than I would have thought! I would have chickened out and used 1/2" for strength.

Thanks for showing this project-very fun!

-Brian


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


wrong Mads …... you are funny 
this is deffently have been a long waiting time for me 
to see this toturial picturebook serie …. you know why 
and the rest of you … you deffently have something to look forward to 
no I don´t say it I wont spoile the fun for Mads 
no not even if you brought a hot cup of Mads´s capocinos in front of my nose 
will I open my mouth for other than drinking it …. 

thanks for a good blog Mads 
Dennis


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice build, Mads!

Great documentation with the photos.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Brian, 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick, more than enough, it gives a really stiff build.
For a Japanese toolbox it should be as light as possible, since this means carry less box (more tools), for some reason people tend to make these boxes thick as hell and much too heavy here in the West, but I think it is a general mistrust to pine. Take my word it is more than enough.


----------



## murch

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks for another great blog. Looking forward to the rest of it.


----------



## littlecope

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks for taking us on your Journey my Friend!


----------



## SebLolo

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very interesting toolbox mister MaFe.

Made with recycle wood and without hardware… I love that! One of my future projects, for sure!

Have a good day.

Seb


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


So back to the notebook.
Seb, I will be happy to see this project in the future, I always get happy when my blogs bare fruit - have a good day.
Mike little, Mads-San traveling Japan without ever getting there, this is epic… laugh.
Murch, I smile here.
Lew, I kind of like making these blogs, it brings a extra dimension to the project and a extra joy to the use of it later.
Dennis, I'm not funny at all, dead serious and really a bore… just me! Thank you for the kind words my friend, I have a small box with your name on it in my garage…
Brian, if I pushed you over the edge, then please read the tale of Icarus, if you fly too close to the sun you will loose your wings - but a twist could be 'if you use too much wax you will not be able to fly due to the extra weight… Ok mafe gone mad now… http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icarus half a inch will be to add a third to the total weight.
Ryan, go and build one, but wait for the rest of this blog before you buy nails…
Henrik, smiler - I kind of feel the same this time, I look forward to present this blog - tak.
Thomas, I am a child, so dreaming is easy - life is no more than what we make it and the path we are given. Miss our Paris walks.
Stefang Mike, that was quite a compliment, I try to add plenty of soul into it and since my smile keeps growing it might be so.
Jim, some say I think too much, you say that you like my choice of parameters - think I like your way of saying it. Thanks Jim.
Texchappy, love to share - I belive it is second chance of learning and in this process that the real evolution happens, between souls.
Steve, and I smile right back to one of a kind.
Don, SB and Kent, thank you ;-).
Sharon, I love the way you express this.
Jamie, so happy you do so, I have been sending you thoughts in all this floor working, I think it is worth looking into for you, also the use of the japanese tools since they use the pull and this will be better for you I think. All you really need is to be flexible and a good pillow under your a.. ;-) I love it.
Madts, then I better go and write the next part.
Thank you all for these wonderful comments, I feel the joy in my bones, and so making this blog is more than pleasure.
The best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## LeeJ

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great Blog Mads…you are doing a great job on this.

It's obvious, you're enjoying the build.

Very nice.

Lee


----------



## jaykaypur

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice work. You will end up with a very fine toolbox.


----------



## scottb

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


great step by set blog, thanks for sharing the how-to


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I don´t hope its a coffin with my name 
since you need to store it in the garage …. LOL

wait you write small box …. pew … a second I got a little nervours 

take care 
Dennis


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hey Mads, can't wait for the next installment. Really interested in the bamboo nails. A video would nice - hint, hit, nudge, nudge, no what I mean.


----------



## Sylvain

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I have just looked at a box of 12 bottles of French Wine.

Those box are simply nailed and the wood thickness is about 8mm as the Mafe Japanese box.

Each bottle wheigts 1.340 kg (burgundy) which makes in total a load of 16 kg or 35.45 pounds.
It is quite heavy.


----------



## ssnvet

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Federal Specification PPP-B-621 is the old pine box spec. (published by the federal government procurement system) used in the packaging world for small crates, back in the day when plywood was expensive and not unniversally available.

Though it has long ago been obsoleted (mostly replaced by cleated plywood crates) you should still be able to download this by going to Assist.com and doing a search. The spec. has load table and can be used to size the box members for specific load requirements, much like a prescriptive building code.

There are many examples illustrated that look very similar to your Japanese tool box. So I guess there's not much new under the sun, whether it be rising or setting :^)

The strength to weight ratio on these pine boxes is great, with the key to the design being never to nail into the end grain of a member. For some reason (I'm not sure why, but suspect it has to do with cost) they are still used to pack and ship munitions in the U.S. DOD system to this day.

I've enjoyed following your all things Japanese blog Mafe…. makes me want to dig out my old corn cob pipe and buy a satchel of medium Cavendish.

A bit amusing to see you using modern power tools to product the toolbox of the ancient arts though… Glad to see you haven't thrown the baby out with the bathwater.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Lee, yes I did have a wonderful time building this box, was so inspired.

jaykaypur, scottb, smiles here.

Dennis, kapow!!!

Texchappy, I acually did a video… but not on the build, look later in the blog… lol.

Sylvian, I found the info for you look in next part.

ssnvet, I acually found a link to this I think but never saved it, it was a really interestion reading. Perhaps this will be usefull: http://suppliers.otctools.com/transportation-and-logistics/packaging-standards/

Best thoughts and thanks for the comments,
Mads


----------



## Pekische

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mafe, great toolbox! Could you please say me what sizes, width and lenght, did you choose?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Pekische,
I usually don't give measures, I think what is right is to find out how many tools you need to hold and this should tell the size of the box.
How ever in this case it might be a matter of beauty and balance, so I will give it to you: 
25 wide x 72 long x 18,5 high.
Like this you can scale up or down after your needs but keep the proportions.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Pekische

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Mafe! I agree that everyone needs something different. I am beginner in woodworking, Japanese toolbox will be my only second project and I am searching for inspiration. I like your work so I wanted to know proportions of your toolbox. That is sure I will eventually find my own sizes


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Big smile, enjoy the build, you are welcome to send a mail if you need advice.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Pekische

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - making the basic box*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
> 
> My conclusion was:
> Low price light weight wood: pine.
> Thin planed boards for low weight.
> No hardware.
> Size that I can easy carry.
> Proportions slim for elegancy.
> A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
> Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.
> 
> And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
> The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
> 
> For the marking:
> The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
> The sides full length.
> The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
> The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood.
> Pine.
> As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut them to width on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I came up with…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
> Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood is waiting MaFe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what it ended up with.
> Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
> But at least now some fine boards for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the work of the hand.
> I plan the boards for the glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plan and see when it's all gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of shaves - I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boards for one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut to length.
> I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Circular saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be a box success…
> (Ok you are not funny MaFe).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut of one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are now.
> With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


That´s really kind offer, mate


----------



## mafe

*Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*

*Japanese toolbox*
大工の道具箱

Here we are part two of the build.
Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.









This was where we left last blog, the basic box.









Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.









And some spacers also.
(This time cutting on a German saw).









Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.









Clamps, clamps and clamps…
Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.









Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.









Time for another drawing.
I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.









As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
And parts are cut for the drawer.









First I cut a little drawer lock.









But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
To make an all wood drawer lock.
An extra challenge, jubiiiii.









Back to the drawing board.
Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.









Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.









Marking.









Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
An apple a day keeps the doctor away.









Parts for the lock - more to come.









Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div









Do you get the picture?
Lock cam.









Making the lock cam move.









Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.









More parts, now a kind of washer.









More clean out for the final fit.









And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.









Here we are!
All the lock parts.
Do not worry it will make sense soon.









In goes the lock cam.









Then the arm / handle.
Notice the little hole I added.









Spacers for a smooth ride.









The washer.









And a mini wedge with a small notch.









So it locks it all together elegantly.
The rest is just to cut the arm to length.









Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.









Chisel away…









This looks like a lock to me.









Yabadabadoooooo









Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.









Clamped.









So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.









Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.









The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.









I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.









And then cut with a chisel.









Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
(Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).









And so we have the front ready.










Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.

I will split the blog here and continue soon.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## TrBlu

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Interesting lock. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Man, I love that little lock trick!


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


fantastic, that is what i really love about wood work, learning the use of different tools, different ways of getting something done, wonderful blog here mads…


----------



## ramon

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Impaciente me dejas,espero que no tardes mucho en darle continuidad a tu caja de herramientas japonesas y gracias por la presentacion con toda esa gran cantidad de detalles.


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful. Just wonderful.

Mafe and all his homemade tool friends working together. Nice.

Steve


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Beautiful, well done!! You are a man after my own heart. I love your designs - so neat and interesting and basic!
You have a great creative mind!!!!!!!!!Thanks for sharing this. I have a similar application but I have gone too far on the box to implement it this time. But thanks for the idea, my friend!!.....................Jim


----------



## NateMeadows

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


You do beautiful work Mafe! I love how you bring you work inside. I know it is because you have no choice but that is still just down right awesome! My wife would kill me! The last picture just sings elegance! You are a genius my friend. Keep up the great work!!!!

Your Friend,

Nate


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Excellent choice on the lock mechanism, Mafe.

I believe the Oriental philosophies really suit you.


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


The lock strike is inspired. Thanks for sharing that. The last shot of your workspace is wonderful. I am considering upgrading to Japanese chisels, but the variety of prices and types is a bit staggering….any suggestions?


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


i think lew is right mads, i think you should build a pagoda roof over one of your pipes, well of coarse not directly over it, suspended with a little bamboo,,now there is a design..that would really be cool…grizz


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


yea rgtools, get a second job…..but from what ive seen, the really good ones are worth it.


----------



## sb194

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


As usual, great job. The locking mechanism is terrific. Looking forward to the next installment.


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very interesting. Thanks.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great stuff as always Mads, wonderful blog with some really inspiring work.


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Ah Mads. I know how those little mechanisms can test the grey cells. I made loads of sketches and a couple of prototypes before I settled on my ball delivery system for my labyrinth game. A very nice solution you came up with. Looking forward to the next installment.

All the best,

A


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful and clever as usual Mads. I love the lock mechanism and I admire that the loss of a workshop did not slow down your woodworking efforts, you just shifted focus to allow yourself to continue. Keep up the good work my friend. I'm looking forward to see the finished box.


----------



## SebLolo

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


As always, instructive blog, useful and attractive.

Thx MaFe

Seb


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, quit doing this to me. I already have enough stuff I want to build - stop it


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


don´t listen to Tex 
as long as there is space on the runway
just let them fly in as close as you can do

thanks for another great toturial Mads 

Dennis


----------



## SASmith

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful blog.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice work, Mads.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice blog Mads ;-) Interesting latch.


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Ya know I's was just kiddin' Keep on inspiring me.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi hi ho and a bottle of rum,
Thank you all for the warm comments, I am on a busy family weekend here, so I just stopped by to see how the blog was meet. Now I will run again with a big smile.
Best thoughts and a wonderful weekend,
Mads


----------



## Sylvain

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


For cutting gages have a look at this:

http://toolmakingart.com/2010/12/07/carving-gauge/

This guy is working with leather, (smokes and) makes pipes and uses Japanese tools ….


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Awesome Mads, that lock is very nice. As always great pictures and drawings, Div is smilling somewhere.


----------



## shipwright

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


This is just so you Mads. Sorry I missed it when it was posted.
I love the lock …... Sweet!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part two of the build.
> Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last blog, the basic box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spacers also.
> (This time cutting on a German saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, clamps and clamps…
> Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for another drawing.
> I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
> And parts are cut for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I cut a little drawer lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
> To make an all wood drawer lock.
> An extra challenge, jubiiiii.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the drawing board.
> Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
> But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
> Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts for the lock - more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
> In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get the picture?
> Lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the lock cam move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts, now a kind of washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean out for the final fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> All the lock parts.
> Do not worry it will make sense soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In goes the lock cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the arm / handle.
> Notice the little hole I added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacers for a smooth ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a mini wedge with a small notch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it locks it all together elegantly.
> The rest is just to cut the arm to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel away…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like a lock to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yabadabadoooooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
> Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then cut with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
> (Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we have the front ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.
> 
> I will split the blog here and continue soon.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi there,
Sylvian, cool he is made of the same piece as me I guess. ;-)
Mauricio, thanks, I'm sure he is. Miss him.
Paul: thanks, yes I thought you might find it interesting after seeing your beautiful Lock.
Best thoughts Guys,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*

*Japanese toolbox*
大工の道具箱

Here we are part three of the build.
Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.









This was where we left last, right there on the floor.









Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.









And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.









The drawer back gets its rabbet.
And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).









Marking, app 3 parts.









Score with the knife.









Cutting the joint.









Chopping out the wood.









Paring the rest.









Neat…









Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.









Like this!









Saw and pare.









And we got some decent fits.









And so we actually have a drawer now.
And I am happy for my knob lock.









The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.









So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.









Ok this is not wood but fun.
My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
So I had to cut it!
Measure once - cut your square…









Now it fits.









So here we are back to the working area.
Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.









I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
(You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
This for maximum strength and beauty.









The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.









And in goes the wood nail.









Porcupine…









And the drawer too.
This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
(I will blog about these in a later blog).









This should do.









Once glued in the nails are cut off.









Here you can get a look at my work set up.
Notice the shoes…









And the bird.









So back to work.
The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.









Plenty of white glue.









Also on each of the nails.









And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.









In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
And these are made so they can be taken out easy.









Like this.









Here looking down the box.
The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.









I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.









And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.









This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.









That's it!
My Japanese tool box, and work space.
A little portable work shop.






The end of the tool box blog.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## theSawdustSurfer

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks Mads!

to read your blog is pure joy. 
We can feel your passion. To see you going deep down in every little detail is very inspiring. 
what a beautiful work! I just love it!


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great blog Mads. I hope you enjoy the box as much as I did reading about it.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


It's too bad I didn't have this great blog when I was younger, but just looking at a floor based workshop these days make my knees ache. What a great toolbox and what a great way to work as well. Very enjoyable journey.


----------



## lysdexic

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Well done Mads.


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very good Mads. Nicely done.


----------



## JR45

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Excellent tutorial Mads which will spawn many lookalikes! You are very lucky to be able to have your new workshop located in the house - it will save on the winter heating bills?
Jim


----------



## 58j35bonanza

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


My knees and back are hurting just thinking of working on the ground.
Beautiful job on the woodworking as always.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very well done, Mads-son!! I have never see the wooden nails but it looks like they are used like dowels with glue for the final assembly and should never loosen- especially when you put them at and angle- neat idea.

Thank you for the detailed blog on the process!!...............Jim


----------



## Sylvain

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very nice toolchest.

At first I didn't understand why you had to cut your square until I realised that it was the short side which was too long.

Do the dustpan and brush also go in? ;-)
What is the total mass of the tools? 
I guess it is less than the mass of 12 bottles of wine.

The lock in the knot is a brilliant idea.
If I understand correctly, the lid is introduced on one side under the corresponding extremity board, clapped close and then shifted under the other extremity board (I am not sure I am clear here).
Is there a locking system for the lid?

Excellent tutorial.


----------



## NateMeadows

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Again Mafe,

You are a genius! I love how you lilted your dowels! Brilliant!

Nate


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great blog Mads, but there are no pictures of the Shoes in action!


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Cool, really cool. Sorry you had to cut your square. The wood nails are a great touch.


----------



## sb194

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Well done Mads. Really enjoyed watching the entire process.

Looking forward to your next blog/project.


----------



## Texchappy

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great mads. Nice, relaxing little workspace.


----------



## bko

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Beautiful project Mads! I really like the way you have arranged the toolbox lid and the little hangers for the saws and rules. I like the way the cross bars are removable-also very clever. I was sad that you had to cut the square down to fit-but sometimes you just have to do it.

Yours workspace looks very elegant and very Japanese-wonderful work!

-Brian


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I need to close my mouth before I let in flies.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice work Mads!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


this was the part I looked forward to Mads 
those five hooks that makes this a shop on the jobsite …. 

please tell us why and how you came up with the idea …. (add to blog )

I still remember how wonderfull you told the tale with that speciel inspired /inspiring voice and 
the sparkle in your eyes that wuold tell anyone that saw /hear you knew here is a man that
is bit by a bug tinkering around on the right shelf with his mistress that any wife will envy
and have to work hard to drag his intention from ,-)

great picture book Mads 
Dennis


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads







A little update from MaFe-San.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


))))


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Fantastic work and a brill film.

Seeing how far you've gone with the Japanese way makes me feel like committing seppuku as I've walked off the path. Perhaps your film will help me find my way back.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice box and gerat blog Mads!


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads,
The top lid holder/tools hanger is a brilliant idea. It also looks great on the side of the box while in use.
I really like it.


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great blog Mads. The little hangers and the nails are inspired. I was laughing my head off when I saw the film. How on earth did you keep a straight face? Thank you for smiles.


----------



## phtaylor36

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Just amazing, wonderful project!


----------



## Johnnyblot

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Kon'nichiwa MaFe San
It is a joy to share the spirit of your workshop. 
I am recovering from spine surgery 5 days ago. I'm doing well but happier already to see your work. 
Cheers
John


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi guys,

John, Thank you, to hear this makes me happy - get well and take your time to get there. I have had a spinal operation myself that was not a success so I am happy to hear about your recover. This is my story: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/20999

Philip, Smiles here.

Andy, when you can - I can, but yes I was fighting to keep a straight face, and felt actually quite shy in front of the camera…

Fabrice, I feel kind of happy for these little inventions, I feel that I have given something back to this old toolbox design.

Topa, Meiku, big smiles here ;-))))))-o

Dennis, so kind words, so soft my heart at this moment. Yes I guess my life flame burns often in what I do. 
For how I came up with the idea… I thought I needed a place to hang the saws when using the box. The lid was always but away when I saw Japanese tool boxes… Why not use it. Think, think and think. The solution right in front of the eyes. The lid, some hangers, but how do I prevent that dam lid from falling… The lid lock. Just about so! Smiles.
Thank you again Dennis for those words they made a great difference to me.

CJ, ;-)

RG, laugh here, yes close it fast. Actually today I had a fly in my nose, but difficult to close that…

Brian, The square is fine, no one will ever notice and I now have an ultra-short Japanese ruler, smiles.

Texchappy, yes I feel also it is a meditative setup, full of calmness and in a nice balance.

Sb, and this makes it worth doing the blogs. ;-)

Doug, just a piece of metal, we are woodworkers here… I also love the wood nails, feel it gives it class without destroying the originality.

Mauricio, check the video - big smile here.

Nate. I'm a child, but they should also sometimes be listed to…

Sylvain, just checked: 14 kg (31 lb.) fully loaded and only 4 kilo (8.8 lb.) empty (I was impressed).
The lock asked to be there, and made of wood I believe, I just listened.
The dustpan and tray stays!

Jim san, I feel confident in the nails, this box will not fall apart, cross nails and glue on relative thin boards.

Chuck, perhaps we need to make you some wooden knees, smiles.

JR45, love and wood working will keep us warm.

Roger and Lysdex, thanks.

Mike, you are young at heart, so never mind the Japanese ways.

Don, if you enjoyed the blog that much I am so much more than happy thanks.

Henrik, my Nordic brother, yes I do get sucked in to the details as I try never to go over the line of simplicity, it's a constant struggle and I love it.

Thank you all so much, I am full of joy and the toolbox has become even more precious to me after reading all your words,
Mads


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice Toolbox !! Always a pleasure to read on your exploits.

Thanks to You


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


impressive how many tools you can have in it 
but the best is you have been able to get the thinking pibe in there 
but I don´t see the tobaco ? .... 

Dennis


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


That could be a textbook photograph of a "full kit". What is the wooden object with the holes on the bottom row?

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Dennis I keep the tobacco near the whiskey.


One like this, but for my old Japanese chisels.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


aah… the flavor of a good single malt in the glass 
enjoying a great tobac on the pibe 
sitting in the relaxing chair with a book ….

ups .. got sidetracked ….. tooooo long since I did that last …. can hardly remember how it is

take care
Dennis


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Go for it Dennis, you deserve it.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wow, absolutely stunning work, MaFe-san! So looking forward to following your builds with the hallway shop!


----------



## ShopTinker

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very inspirational. You make a guy kind of wish he had been taught traditional hand tool woodworking. I won't go as far as to say traditional Japanese woodworking. I can't get around the sitting on the floor part.  Although, I really like their traditional tools. Thanks for all the time you put into sharing your new path with us.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Smitty, no energy for builds these days, but will happen I'm sure.
Dan, I smile here thx.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


what a beautiful journey to making a more pleasant work environment - lovely!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Sharon.


----------



## Michiel

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Just fantastic, thank you for the inspiration. I have made an small toolbox as well. 
You could see some pictures at: http://www.woodworking.nl/showthread.php?4246-Foto's-Gereedschapskisten-handige-opberggingen/page7

I will make a small Japanese style toolbox for the newly ordered Japanese chisels. The box should fit nicely in the middle compartment.


----------



## kingme

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great tool box! Neat little shop there. I plan to go back and read through your blog. I must have missed your dust collection system… I am hoping to see some other projects from you. I am really hoping to get more proficient with hand tools. I need to bring some Zen into my workspace…Thanks for the inspiration!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi guys,
Thanks for the comments.
Michiel, I will take a look, sorry I missed this.
Kingme, not sure what you mean by that… If it is the holes in the table, it is just a Festool MFT table. Nothing like zen.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Check the shoes:


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I'm glad you commented. I missed this post. Wonderful build.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Wayne. ;-)


----------



## verntoolboxjunkie

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


As I stare down the barrel of major geographic relocation, I am inspired totally by this build. Maybe I can retain some woodworking dreams even in an apartment on the other side of the globe. Really beautiful project, and outstanding detail. Keep up the great work.


----------



## Harrythehat

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


the Japanese are amazing. They can do so much with so little. Your work on this project shows you have the same skill. It is beautiful work.Thank you


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi,
verntoolboxjunkie, sorry I did not see your comment. Yes you can do a project like this with few tools an small space, just get the boards in right thickness then.

Harrythehat, I also have a big love for the Japanese and their traditions.
Thank you! I don't know if I have the skills, but I do think I got the feel to it and know I have the love for it. ;-) I do my best and admire, while trying to put a little of me inside as I go.

Thanks for your comments, I can see almost 60.000 people have seen it and meet it all over the web, so even it lives quietly in the corner of my workshop, it does get around. Smiles.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mdhills

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


This is a really inspiring build. Thanks for sharing.
I especially liked the final photos, with the tools set up on the toolbox.
In practice, do you find you use the drawer for quick access, or would you be as well-served with a removable till inside the box?

Matt


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Here we are part three of the build.
> Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was where we left last, right there on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer back gets its rabbet.
> And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking, app 3 parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Score with the knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chopping out the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw and pare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we got some decent fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so we actually have a drawer now.
> And I am happy for my knob lock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this is not wood but fun.
> My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
> So I had to cut it!
> Measure once - cut your square…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we are back to the working area.
> Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
> These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
> (You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
> As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
> This for maximum strength and beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
> Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in goes the wood nail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porcupine…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the drawer too.
> This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
> (I will blog about these in a later blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once glued in the nails are cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can get a look at my work set up.
> Notice the shoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to work.
> The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of white glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on each of the nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
> And these are made so they can be taken out easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here looking down the box.
> The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
> As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it!
> My Japanese tool box, and work space.
> A little portable work shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the tool box blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Matt,
Thank you for the kind words, big smile here.
The drawer is for the joy, it makes it easy to have small items, that don't get lost in the tool box, but yes, you could also make a tray. To be honest I made the drawer, to challenge my self, to make a wooden locking mechanism and making drawers in the Japanese traditional way. 
Best of my thoughts,
Mads
(Happy to see the post has now been seen more than 94.000 times, so it was really worth sharing it).


----------



## mafe

*Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*

*Japanese woodworking videos*
Just for inspiration

Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.





My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
Tools, floor, workbench.

Cabinetmaker:
How to flatten a board with a kanna.





Japanese box maker:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4

Japanese carver.
Mini kanna.





Japanese carver.
With his chisels.





Japanese cabinetmaking.
Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.





Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.





Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.





Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
Mini saw horses.





Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.





Flattening a big slap.
Notice the wall behind…





Japanese using the traditional axe.





Japanese using the traditional axe.
Notice the dance of the feet.





Japanese marking.
Ink pot and pen.





Cabinetmakers.





Bamboo bow.





Bamboo patience…





Bamboo more…





Cool carpenter with his kanna.
Long beam.





Amazing cabinetmaker.





Amazing cabinet maker:





A chest of drawers.





Cabinetmaker.
All process and heat bend method.





Cabinetmaker.
many details.





Cabinet finish surfacer.





Wood nails in use.
Fantastic workshop.





Cabinetmaker.





Knife sheath maker wood.





Finish and hardware.





Cabinetmaker.





Drawer.
Method I used for the Japanese tool box.





Japanese shooting board.
Nice details, workshop ways and more.





Inlay.





Curtain maker.





Cabinetmaker.
Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.





Alternative lathe…





Japanese shooting board.





Update 14072012

Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:





Hammering the kanna blade:





Making a kanna body:





Sharpening:





Making an axe:





Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.





Using a planing board:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030

Mixed:





As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## lysdexic

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Mads. What a great resource. You are very kind to share your time and efforts.


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, that is some research.

Oddly enough I use standard planes on the pull

as you cant push in a wheelchair without going

backwards. LoL

Jamie


----------



## lysdexic

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great quote Jamie. I find the converse to be true as well. Small men revel in the misfortune and suffering of others as I it makes small men feel larger in comparison. I know a lot of folks like that.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wow, tak for posting! It's so hard to find information about Japanese woodworking online!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For contrast…


----------



## NateMeadows

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wow, thanks for sharing Mafe. One could spend forever watching all those and trying to learn from them. There is so much to learn!

Your Friend,

Nate


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great resource Mads, I will definitely work my way through all of these videos.


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


The mitered box joints on the third video are absurd!!! In a good way though, wow all that work for a joint that will be hidden.


----------



## carlosponti

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mafe any videos of how to make a handle for a pull style saw? I have a cheap plastic handled pull saw that the handle broke would like to make one wasn't sure how its done. I have an idea but would like verification.


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


What a list of videos !!


----------



## dkirtley

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.


----------



## SebLolo

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thx a lot MaFe. Many interesting and instructive videos!

Seb


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you guys,

David thank you, I have watched them all, he is a inspiration.

Joe, no Japanese vid on the subject, but look at these two, it might be a inspiration:
http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/26/repairing-a-japanese-saw/
http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=162903

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks Mads, this is a great blog to learn more with all of these videos. Thanks for taking the time!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


;-)


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I love how these guys just heat and bend the wood into shape! Meanwhile we are wasting away all that wood! I need to try this on a board I'm using for my workbench build.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mauricio, yes I think also this have to be tried.
But I am thinking that it will depend on the wood, if it will go back to shape later… This could create big tension in the piece. But I have no doubt they know what they are doing!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I tried this last night with a 8/4 piece of oak about 6 feet long. I wet one side and hit the other side with a heat gun. I clamped it down on my bench with a fulcrum (3/4" board) in the middle so I could over bend it a little the other way. I just removed the clamps, no luck unfortunately. Now its sitting out on the grass in the sun. The grass is not damp so I'm not sure how this will work but it's worth a shot!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hmmmmmm….. perhaps the wood need to be soaked in water first, in this way it is kind of like stam bending.
Interesting thread perhaps you should make a blog on this and hear what people have to say.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


----------



## secharles

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


great resource. thanks for listing & posting. the synopsis is helpful, too.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Smiles thank you.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## secharles

mafe said:


> *Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration*
> 
> *Japanese woodworking videos*
> Just for inspiration
> 
> Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
> Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
> Tools, floor, workbench.
> 
> Cabinetmaker:
> How to flatten a board with a kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese box maker:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4
> 
> Japanese carver.
> Mini kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese carver.
> With his chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese cabinetmaking.
> Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
> Mini saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
> Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening a big slap.
> Notice the wall behind…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese using the traditional axe.
> Notice the dance of the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese marking.
> Ink pot and pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo patience…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bamboo more…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool carpenter with his kanna.
> Long beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing cabinet maker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A chest of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> All process and heat bend method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> many details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinet finish surfacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood nails in use.
> Fantastic workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knife sheath maker wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish and hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawer.
> Method I used for the Japanese tool box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> Nice details, workshop ways and more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curtain maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinetmaker.
> Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative lathe…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese shooting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update 14072012
> 
> Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammering the kanna blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a kanna body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making an axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a planing board:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030
> 
> Mixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads







Q: would anyone have a suggestion for closing hardware on this style box?

thanks


----------



## mafe

*Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*

*Japanese tool tray*
for the new toolbox

To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.

I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.









Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.









As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.









Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.









Now time for some marking.
Setting the gauge for the board thickness.









Marking the finger joints.









Dividing into three.









And some smoke.









Marking the waste.









Cutting the shoulder.









With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.









Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.









Cleaning the sides.









For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.









But it's just wood.









And quite fast it's done.









Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.









I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
If it was hardwood I would go closer.









Other side.









Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.









And pare the joint.









That's a fine fit.









So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.









Next step is the groove for the bottom.
Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.









This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.









Cutting the grooves.









Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.









And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.









And a little clean up.









Grooves!









This is why it need to be stopped.
Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.









Bottom is cut to size.









Glue time!
Sounds like a jazzy thing…









Make sure to get it all over.
Not all over you and the table…









Clamping.
And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.









I cut a groove on the table saw.









Looking like dividers.
But a little thick so I will plane them down.









Now for the handle.









And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin









And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.









A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.









That fits into the toolbox.









Like so.









And you can play with…
Do not ask me why…









Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


up to your wonderful work again mads

always an inspiration
always a new knowledge

thank you for the sharing

be well


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads

Great as usual

As if you were in the next room

I got a new stove

There is a few pieces of white pine used inside

the polystyrene packaging

You have inspired me yet again

Thank You

Jamie


----------



## JJohnston

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Regarding the picture with the sticks: Okay, I won't ask why, but I will ask "what?"


----------



## littlecope

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


You are a Treasure Mads!
Thanks for a few minutes of Peace and Serenity… and the Smiles…


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wow Mads. Looks like some a nice stack o chop-sticks that nice tote is sittin on


----------



## SebLolo

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Interesting and useful, as always with MaFe.

Thx a lot.

Seb


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice to see those old and Japanese hand tools in action Mads. A nice result on the tray and I love the branch handle. The next to last picture might indicate that you need help (to get the stack higher).


----------



## NateMeadows

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


It is always a joy to read and watch you work!

Nate


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I love the tray Mads and I love the way you made the handle removable so it fits in your toolbox. However, I'm not sure I like the twig handle. I'll have to buy some toffees so that I can chew it over and decide.

chew…munch…yum…chew…yum…munch…chew…yum.

Ok I've decided I like it. Carry on.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I love the post, as always. You're really a great storyteller


----------



## SirFatty

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Really nice work! I feel inspired to hand cut my joints!


----------



## JoeLyddon

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, very nice tool tote…

COOL work!

It's nice to see someone make box joints by hand… like dovetails!

COOL Project!

Thank you for all of the pictures… great work!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi hi,
Joe, boxtails… Yes I also think it is refreshing to see them handcut, it do make a difference in the result.
SirFatty, cool, this is what LJ is all about - inspire.
Thomas, Omadseus wood Odyssey… Laugh.
Andy, OMG toffees I completely forgot about these - now I will have to go looking - muuuummmmm.
If still some doubt I will give you Twiggy while you think…








http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twiggy
Nate, and so to you.
Stefang, the truth about these stigs are that my daughter and I was playing this Mikado game that afternoon and we got inspired and started to play by building a 'tower', it was not even meant to fit the tray.
Seb, thank you for those words, I guess they fit quite well what I am aiming for 'interesting and useful', if one part is missing I am never happy with it really. That gave the functionalist architect here something to think about.
Roger, Sushi time!
littlecope, to give you that is a treasure in it self, thank you.
JJohnston, and I will laugh high (look at my answer to Stefang).
Jamie, I look forward to see what that pack will become, to inspire and be insired keeps us alive, balance.
David, big smile from here.
The best of my thoughts (even they are a bit messy these days), and a big warm smile you gave me,
Mads


----------



## Maveric777

mafe said:


> *Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)*
> 
> *Japanese tool tray*
> for the new toolbox
> 
> To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.
> 
> I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
> For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
> First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time for some marking.
> Setting the gauge for the board thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the finger joints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dividing into three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's just wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And quite fast it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
> If it was hardwood I would go closer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pare the joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a fine fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is the groove for the bottom.
> Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grooves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why it need to be stopped.
> Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom is cut to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue time!
> Sounds like a jazzy thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to get it all over.
> Not all over you and the table…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping.
> And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a groove on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking like dividers.
> But a little thick so I will plane them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fits into the toolbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can play with…
> Do not ask me why…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Yet another fun and insightful blog Mads. You have an incredible talent of doing this where it makes us feel like we are actually there experience it with you (at least it does to me…lol). Enjoyed it and thanks for sharing…


----------



## mafe

*Japanese toolbox - update.*

*Japanese toolbox - update*
大工の道具箱

Just a little update for the toolbox part.
A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.









Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.









I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.









The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.









Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.









And all the tools are ready to use.









My man Shave, he is fine.
He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
As you can see he 'hang' out here.









Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
This touched my heart.









And here it is put in my sketch book.
Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.





The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…


My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.

The end of the tool box update blog.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

*Best thoughts,*

Mads


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Shave, nice crib you have there


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


all i can do is smile.


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


what a wonderful presentation you did with all of this, i enjoyed it so much, and it opened my eyes and thoughts as to how and why wood workers have different tools, do things in different ways, and i felt the wonderful spirit from it all…..sorry you pulled the video, seeing the Japanese Kimono was a real treat, and you looked very nice in it i thought…thanks so much mads,


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice to see Shave made the move with you Mads. I like his hairstyle. Has anyone tripped over your toolbox yet? If my wife was there, she definitely would. Lol.


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice, To all life a little smile must go.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


A well organized kit Mads, and of course I like the bucket displayed with it very much. I spent quite a lot of time in Japan while in the Navy from 1957/1961 and I do greatly appreciate the Japanese aesthetic and the elegant simplicity of their culture. This elegance and simplicity seems to be present in every part of Japanese life including woodworking. Your blogs bring back a lot of very pleasant memories to me as does the bucket also. So many thanks for this blog series.


----------



## BrandonW

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wonderful!


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


What a wonderful update.
Thanks for including us in you life.

Steve


----------



## barecycles

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks for the update and many, many thanks for the video…simply wonderful!


----------



## SebLolo

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks for this Mads !


----------



## GrandpaLen

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you for including us in your journey, it's been a pleasure.

A great 'blog' and an interesting history lesson. - Len


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, I appreciate your work here. I really like the pine and clear finishes. Over time it will mellow out nicely. Seems as if you are making the best of your situation right now.

Best thoughts and wishes from Florida!

Ken


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


how wonderful. you also have great lighting where you are at… that is such a benefit over a dark basement/garage. much more pleasing to work that way


----------



## murch

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Great stuff Mads.
Thanks for taking the time to put all that together.


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Hey Mads,

Clear pine finish and white walls, your living room looks really ZEN. Once again, thanks for sharing.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## SASmith

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I'm glad to see that you and shave are well.


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Brilliant Mads, thanks for sharing.


----------



## lysdexic

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very clever lid holder and hanger


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very good Mafe-san! It is also good to that Shave made the trip. The Japanese style tool box is a real inspiration. Its simplicity is its beauty.


----------



## kenn

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Excellent! Glad that you have set up your woodworking space while enjoying your new home and love. Best wishes.


----------



## Boatman53

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Very nice space. I don't think I could pare my tools down to that little kit however.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Nice tools and great storage for them!!...Thanks for sharing…..........Jim


----------



## kiefer

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Keep posting these Japanese shop and tool blogs and I will get hooked also ,so far I just try to build projects in the Asian style , but these tools may give more inspiration and satisfaction .


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Wahuuuuu…
I just made a update and did not expect comments or views here - and then I am finding all these lovely words and true kindness - thank you.
Lately I had a little blues, after the move and having to give up my workshop, but to grab the Japanese projects and setting up a temporary work space in the apartment made it less massiv, and has keept me in touch with the wood and tools and you guys, even managed to set up a sharpening station now.
(I still have quite a few blogs from the old shop that was never posted).
And then to find all this kindness and thoughts from all of you, yes it touch me deep in the old clockwork.
Best of my thoughts to you and yours,
Mads


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Your compactness is even compact Mads. Very good


----------



## DocSavage45

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Anoney,

dijobo desu! Motto ee! Mads san, anata no karma oki desu!

If you have the time check out Japanese Joinery, part of the book is training for japanese carpenters.

keyot skita!

mata ney!


----------



## DocSavage45

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


asoko de ne nien desu.

30 years ago. LOL!


----------



## SamuelP

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


You give us lots to aspire to…

Thank you.


----------



## madts

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Tusind Tak!! As usual a very good post. I am waiting for the next one.

Best wishes

Madts.

I used to live on Egehøjveg 16


----------



## deleteme

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


新しいツールボックスを見て大卿おはようございます。あなたは、木工の日本美術を学び続けるために私にインスピレーションを与えています。乾杯、ポール。


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Paul. That was a wonderful message and a little like playing secret agent when we were kids, to decode. ;-)
Madts, Egehøjveg where - Copenhagen?
Sam, you are the man.
Thomas, I have no clue… Laugh.
Roger, hope it will not be gone…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DocSavage45

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mafe,

semi colloquial from southern Japan where I lived in my 20's. Only learned the language in romanized style. Sort of Hey, looks good! Your karma is great! Take it easy…later!

Re reading my "Japanese Joinery" book. The carpenter's training section. I'm a "more is better" thinker. Or I use to be.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Japanese-Joinery-Hideo-Sato/dp/0881791210/ref=pd_cp_b_0

Matte Ney ( see you later)

Fukigawa Tommu ( Loose translation of my name) Deep water friend


----------



## PaBull

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, what a nice blog. The best part is to be able to sit right next to you while you open up your Japanese toolbox. There is a lot of LJ history in that box.

Thanks for the post, it keeps us all smiling.

Your friend Pabull.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese toolbox - update.*
> 
> *Japanese toolbox - update*
> 大工の道具箱
> 
> Just a little update for the toolbox part.
> A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
> I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
> Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
> The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the tools are ready to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My man Shave, he is fine.
> He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
> As you can see he 'hang' out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
> Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
> This touched my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is put in my sketch book.
> Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…
> 
> 
> My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.
> 
> The end of the tool box update blog.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
> 
> I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


DocSavage45, late answer here, semi colloquial, Matte Ney Fu.igawa Tommu. ;-)
Pa, You are always welcome, even to be the one infront of the toolbox.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese cutting gauge*

*Japanese cutting gauge*
by mafe'san

So we are back on the Japanese road.
I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.









Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.









This blog starts here.
A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
Here you can read about the gift story.
Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.









Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!









Marking up the basic layout.
I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.









I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).









A quite effective Japanese hand drill.









So time for playing with Japanese tools.









Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.









Like this.
I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.









And finally like so.









Time to separate the tool from the wood.
I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).









Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.









And the final cross cut.









Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.









This is close enough before the chisel.









Marking up for the blade arm.
making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.









And rip away.









Time to unwrap a plane.









And make some shaves.









And chamfer the edges.









To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.









Here we have the basics ready.









Time to make a wedge.









A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.









Shaping with the chisel.









And cutting of the wedge.









Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.









Until there is a good fit.









Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.









Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.









Brake of some Stanley blades.









Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).









Here it is!









The blade exposed.









The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.









Time to test.
Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.









The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.









Yes! It Works justfine!









Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.









Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.

Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.

*Best thoughts and a happy new year,*

Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


ohhh yes Randy I loved the smell of the wood!


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Very neat build! Thanks for the photo essay, Mads!


----------



## pendledad

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


I'm always amazed at your work. Thanks for the inspiration.

This reminded me about four 8' long wide pine boards that I reclaimed from my old garage shelves. I'll be turning some of that lumber into a Japanese toolbox to hold my ryoba/dozuki/squares/chisels.

Keep up the awesome work! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## fissionchips

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Thanks for sharing, it's always fun to see your photos. Is that western white oak?
My project for today is a red cedar box to store japanese chisels.


----------



## grizzman

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


its a beauty mads…i always enjoy seeing you use just hand tools, when it comes down to it, thats what its all about really…thank you…grizz


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, I always find myself smiling by the end of your blogs. Thank You!


----------



## kiefer

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Mads 
You are a great inspiration and a great blog on another fine tool .

*Happy New year and all the best for 2013 *


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


thanks Mads … inspiring as always 

happy new year to you and Matilde

take care
Dennis


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


another great tool blog mads

and a new tool too

well done

happy new year !


----------



## Dez

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Mafe,
Lately you are the master of how to blogs! I admire you!
I always forget to take pictures till I am almost done!
Nice marking gauge!


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Great how to blog. I just realized that mine is a little different than yours Mads as it has two cutters for marking mortises and tenons. I have to admit that I don't much like double bladed gauges anyway as they never seem to work as well as intended and they are fussy to set up. It could be a brain problem and not the gauge!


----------



## JR45

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Excellent blog! Definitely added to the "To Do" list. How is the blade held in place? Do you have a small wedge there?
Jim


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Hi ho,
No the blade is just held by the fact that the hole is smaller, so self wedging.









I was insired by this one that was on e-bay.

Thank you all for the kind words, it is me that smiles now,
Mads


----------



## jusfine

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Mads, I have been away from my computer (spending time in the shop), and just saw your post now - I am so glad you made something useful from the scrap, and that you like the smell too!

There are only a few that I really enjoy the odor of when I am cutting, Sassafras is one of them.

Great Blog! All the best in the New Year!


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Very Cool Looking Tool…

& it comes from the Heart with the wood…


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Great blog on the process and all without electricity!!........Nice work, my friend!!


----------



## PaBull

mafe said:


> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> 
> *Japanese cutting gauge*
> by mafe'san
> 
> So we are back on the Japanese road.
> I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This blog starts here.
> A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
> And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
> Here you can read about the gift story.
> Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the basic layout.
> I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quite effective Japanese hand drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time for playing with Japanese tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to separate the tool from the wood.
> I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the final cross cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is close enough before the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the blade arm.
> making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And rip away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to unwrap a plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And make some shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And chamfer the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we have the basics ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping with the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cutting of the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until there is a good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brake of some Stanley blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade exposed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to test.
> Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! It Works justfine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Very nice post, thanks. You are an inspiration.

Pabull.


----------



## mafe

*Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*

*Kiri hand drill*
Japanese gimlet

In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.

I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.









Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.









I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
kiris from left:
*Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
*Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
*Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
*Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
(Thank you Toshio Odate).









So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
I use some beech wood.









With a gauge I make it tapered.









And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.









Here we got two of them finished.









And my mafe is burned into the handle.









Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.









Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.









And here some of my kiri's.









I think the new version blend in fine.









Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.









Finally one in use.

Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.

*Best thoughts and a happy new year,*

Mads


----------



## bandit571

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Could one also use a bow to turn the drills?


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


well done mads
with your usual 'hands on' approach

i've done this with coat hangers
bang the end somewhat flat 
with a hammer
and chuck into a battery drill

works for quick holes
(but i always lose them)

or bend the end for an emergency paint stirrer


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Very good Mads. I have a set of "gimlets" that I purchased from here: http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=37J03.04
They work very well for starting and threading holes in smaller projects.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Hi Mads. Handy tools and easy to make with a little hardened steel from a screw driver, drill bit, etc. Thanks for showing us how to make these.


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Thank you Mads, I appreciate the details on how you made your various styles of kiri. As soon as I am able I'll have to make some. Take care.


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Fantastic Mads, I always love how you personlize the work with your own style and design. Always an inspiration!
All the best!


----------



## revieck

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Yes Mafe, I find drilling holes boring. Now your kiri hand drills look exciting, they could keep me from dozing off the shop!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


An education on Japanese drills with my morning coffee. Only with LJs, only with Mads. Great stuff, perfectly executed. Thank you for the post, Mads!


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Nice blog on the kiri's. Now you need a glass of sake to celebrate the new tools!!!!!!


----------



## Timbo

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Well done Mads, I assume these work well for drilling small holes?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Kiri hand drill (gimlet)*
> 
> *Kiri hand drill*
> Japanese gimlet
> 
> In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
> Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
> It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.
> 
> I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
> Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
> kiris from left:
> *Mitsume-kiri*, and has a head and three sides.
> Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
> *Youtsume-kiri*, Tapered holes for wood nails.
> *Tsubo-giri*, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
> *Nezumi-ba-kiri*, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
> (Thank you Toshio Odate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
> I use some beech wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a gauge I make it tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we got two of them finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my mafe is burned into the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
> On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here some of my kiri's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the new version blend in fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally one in use.
> 
> Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts and a happy new year,*
> 
> Mads


Hi guys,
Thank you for the comments it always make me happy.
Yes they work really fine for small holes, if I have to make many I will still use a accu.
I have to try that one day David.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*

*MaFe style Kanna jointer*
Japan meets Krenov

For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.









Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay. 
On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm









So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.









The story starts here.
I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.









As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.









So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.









Like so.









The same for the cap iron.
Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.









Inside out.
Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.









Ok here it starts, with a cut!
In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.









Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.









Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
In this way I knew I had the base lined up.









After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
(Look at later photos).









Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
(Jamie you might notice something here).









And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also. 
I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.









So time to cut.
Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.









The good old Dewalt.









Shut up and cut MaFe.









The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
First making sure I had a perfect square angle.









Here you get the picture of the principal.









And here with the cap iron.









In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).









Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.









Then you can put in the cap iron.
I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…









Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.









The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.









Now it is all to adjust the parts.









First the back end.









Then the front.









I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.









Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.









The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.









We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.









So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.









First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.









Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.









The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.









Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).









Naga-Dai-Kanna.









Japanese planner plane.









MaFe san, full of good Zen.









Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.

Japan (plane type and iron)
Russia (Krenov born)
US (Where Krenov made his planes)
Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
Denmark (where I live and are born)
It's a small and fascinating world.

Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.

Japanese-Cutlery link:
http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
D&M:
http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very nice instruction on building that plane. Pretty soon we be calling you mads son!

..........................jim


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wonderful plane Mads. Looking forward to you being back in your shop and working.


----------



## Gibernak

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Looks really beautiful, thanks for sharing


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


The sole:
http://giantcypress.net/post/3874908014/japanese-jointer-plane-sole-configuration
Setup in general (look also in my blog):
http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
Thoughts:
http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.dk/2011/12/smile-and-wave-v.html
Japanese links:
http://www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/9-2-12.htm
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~tyouken/dougu/d-8.htm
Some words on the plane iron angles.
http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/nlc-wood/chapters/caop.html
Pleasure:
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=339_514_515_536&products_id=1541
Smiles.


----------



## Hammerthumb

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Sure would have liked to see some pic in use. I'll keep my eye out for them.


----------



## FreddyS

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi mads, nice work as usual but… some pics using it please!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Pics using will come when my shop opens again in 4-5 months, the plane and all my tools are in storage now.


----------



## SamuelP

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great story again.


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Long time without a shop, Mads. Certainly time for meditation, family and planning for the next gorgeous tool.


----------



## fissionchips

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


If like me you can't wait ten years for the black patina to return to the filed edges of the blade, a touch of "gun blue" is all you need to bring back the colour. I learned this trick from a kanna blade repair professional, none other than Toru Uozumi of Tsunesaburo! 
My crack at a nagadai kanna can be found here.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Brilliant Mads! I'm sure this plane will perform well as you hope it will. I'm sorry to hear that your shop will be closed down for such a long time, but I hope the renovation will make it even better for your shop. I just hope they don't raise the rent too much! Thanks for posting this, it was very interesting and educational.


----------



## Ken90712

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great blog!!!!!


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wow. What a wonderful blog. Nice work Mads.

I hope you find time in the next six months to reflect and grow. And then hit back hard with your renovated shop.

Steve


----------



## Timbo

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I skimmed over this blog when you posted it Mads, but busy at the time and meant to look again later. Well I found it again! Excellent blog full of details, I have been wanting to make a jointer with the "extra cheeks" for the wedge so thanks for this post!

Wonderful plane, great work.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi there,
Tim, then I am happy, I always get happy if just one person can actually use the blog. It was great fun to make, so I am sure you will enjoy the build. Thank you.
Steve, yes I try, to enjoy and grow, even I just said to a friend the other day; 'my ohhh I thought that after 40 we would be at a point, where we had learned all about our self and yet it never stops', in a way wonderful though, as long as we enjoy the ride. ;-) I will hit the shop as a nuke.
Ken, ;-)
Stefang, I think the rent stays… hope… pray… Smiles. 
fissionchips, ordered and received a set of gun blue, so now I just need to get the shop back open. Look forward to try this.
Lew, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I am in deep meditation.
Sam, smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


very nice build.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Perhaps a new challenge Don?
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## KOVA

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


*BIEN HECHO!!!!! GRACIAS GRAN MAESTRO!!!!!
VAS A EMPUJAR O A TIRAR DE ESE PLANO CUANDO LO UTILICES



?

Click to expand...

*


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Será un avión tirón, y un miembro de mi familia herramienta japonés…
Google.


----------



## Mark0517

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thought this is a fine article. I have been doing a variation of this for about fifteen years.would be glad to share pictures. And dis riptide of what I do if you are interested. I make my own blades from pieces of diamond concrete saw blades for starters and build them up from there. But more later if you are interested the old Viking. Mark Knudsen


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Mark,
I will be really happy to hear what you are into.
Sounds really interesting and as i see from the name, we might not live too far apart.
I will send you a mail.
Best thoughts and thank you,
Mads


----------



## Mark0517

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I am 77 years old. Served a apprentiship in a Danish mill in the gild system tradition of Denmark and used tool from Carl F Peterson and made many tools of this tradition plains scribes bow saws etc. about 35 years ago did some switching to Japanese tools and now for fun and another experance am studying Chinese wood working and their tools and traditions. One of my interests is also making some high class rustic furnature from shipping pallets completed with dovetailed drawers. Just use the wood for a rustic look. Some of this wood is cottonwood maple oak cheery even walnut. Some times leaving nails in sometimes pulling them. Have put all the flooring in my last house using pallets and face screwing them down, light stain to even the woods out . Waterloo finish all sanded with a body sander.. You want some pictures" tell me how to get them to you. Thanks Mark


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
> 1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
> 2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
> 3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
> On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
> The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
> The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
> The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
> The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The story starts here.
> I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.
> 
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> Like so.
> 
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> 
> 
> The same for the cap iron.
> Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.
> 
> 
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> 
> Inside out.
> Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here it starts, with a cut!
> In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
> The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
> Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
> In this way I knew I had the base lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
> I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
> The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
> The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
> (Look at later photos).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
> (Jamie you might notice something here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
> I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
> I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So time to cut.
> Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
> The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
> Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The good old Dewalt.
> 
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> 
> Shut up and cut MaFe.
> 
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> 
> The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
> First making sure I had a perfect square angle.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here you get the picture of the principal.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> And here with the cap iron.
> 
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> 
> In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can put in the cap iron.
> I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.
> 
> 
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> 
> The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now it is all to adjust the parts.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> First the back end.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then the front.
> 
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> 
> I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
> Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
> And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
> Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naga-Dai-Kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Japanese planner plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaFe san, full of good Zen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.
> 
> Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.
> 
> Japan (plane type and iron)
> Russia (Krenov born)
> US (Where Krenov made his planes)
> Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
> Denmark (where I live and are born)
> It's a small and fascinating world.
> 
> Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.
> 
> Japanese-Cutlery link:
> http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
> D&M:
> http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Just got one thanks Mark.
Wonderful story, thank you for the mails.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*

*Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
Japanese scraper plane

I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
So here it is finally.

Time for learning a little Japanese…

What!:
A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783

Why?:
My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .









Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608









The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.









Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.









Then the bed for the iron.









This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.









I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
Don't know if there are some rules for this.









Then cut to length.









Slicing up pieces for the sides.









Here we get the picture.









Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.









Clamps, never too many!
Here I also am able to clamp down.









After drying, this is what we got.









So cut to final size.









Flatten the sole.









Braking the edges.









Making the wood for a wedge.









Now it all starts to make sense.









And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.









Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.









Bang the pin through.









Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.









The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.









So a tour on a diamond plate.









And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.









So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
(Not as sexy, but softer hardening).









Giving it a burr.









Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.









Giving it my mark.









MAFE tools. ;-)









Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.









Kind of Japanese or?









I think it will do.



























Sole.









Parts.









Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.

Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## SirFatty

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice work! How long does it take to make one?


----------



## siavosh

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wonderful work! Quick question, do you see any pros/cons of building the dai from a solid piece of wood vs a Krenov build? Thanks.


----------



## RobynHoodridge

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I would buy a MAFE tools kanna.
Excellent work. (as always)


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great work Mads. I am learning to love hand planes and hand planing. I will probably stick with my Stanley/Bailey and bedrock design planes since I have already laid out a fair amount of money for them, but that certainly does not stop me appreciating these fine Japanese style planes you are creating. I like your hybrid versions too. That is how designs progress and change, so a natural progression. All good. Keep up the good work my friend.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


SirFatty, That is depending on your skills and tools, I think I can build one in a hour or so and then the glue drying time. When I build my first Krenov I probably spend a day, with only hand tolls I'll say half a day. Hope this brad answer helps.
Siavosh, The answer is no. I know some that will say different. Some say it is only a Japanese plane when cut in one piece, this is like saying a Krenov type plane is not a Western plane. Some say the glue might not hold, as an Architect and house builder I will say there are no problem what so ever. As an Architect of course I can enjoy the beauty of a one piece wood plane.
RobynHoodridge, I am retired - lol - it is all pleasure now. Thank you!
Mike, I think you know by now, that for me it is not the need for planes, it is passion, I have more planes than I can ever use, I love to study them, to tune then, to challenge them, to find out the differences, the ways, the builds, the designs, the patina, the different types on the planet, the sounds, the smells, it all - I am a rhykenologist and a happy monkey, curious as a child and passionate as a lover when it comes to planes. God help me! 
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Quite a beauty you have there, Mads!

Looks like the family is growing.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


excellent.


----------



## Timbo

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Good to have you back posting again Mads! Hope the next few weeks go by quickly and you can get back in your shop. These Kanna builds are timely for me as I have a toothed iron I want to use in a wood body plane.


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


As usual, reading you blog is like sitting in your shop, coffee in hand, talking about what we love.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Domo arigatou,
RG, Wold be wonderful if you one day sat in my shop with a cup of coffee, the door is open.
Tim, I have so many un-posted blogs, that you might end up screaming for me to get back in the shop. LOL. Happy that it seems like my blog is going to be useful, give me a note when you have posted yours. 
Don, Big smile.
Lew, Thanks, I lost count…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Fine work Mads. You make it look fun and easy.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very find planes and scraper demo on the process. Very informative. you did not miss a step for one to build one!

Thanks, Jim


----------



## phtaylor36

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Looks great Mads! It's a shame you have no shop for a time, but I'm sure we will see some great posts! Best wishes.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi,
Dough, it is easy, 'just do it', I have learned woodworking is all about that.
Jim, I try my best to show it all, even I do forget and sometimes have to go back and take new pictures…
Philip, on my hard drive there are plenty, so lets see. ;-)
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


very nice!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Smiles Mauricio.


----------



## Oni

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Just the post I was looking for on making one of these. Thank you for posting the process. Would a metal chip breaker in addition to the wooden wedge provide any benefit?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna - Japanese scraper plane (Krenov style build) Blog*
> 
> *Dai-Naoshi-Kanna*
> Japanese scraper plane
> 
> I posted the plane quite some time back (July 2011), but forgot to post the blog…
> So here it is finally.
> 
> Time for learning a little Japanese…
> 
> What!:
> A symbioses between a Japanese Tachi-Ba-Kanna (standing blade) and a Krenov style scraper plane, made for the purpose of tuning the sole of Japanese hand planes.
> I have now also build a Naga-Dai-Kanna (Japanese jointer plane) in this style: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> 
> Why?:
> My kind sister brought me some Japanese chisels and a plane from her travel in Korea and this inspired me to look a little into Japanese tools. So while on holyday I read the book The care and use of Japanese woodworking tools of Kip Mesirow & Ron Herman (not so impressed) and the wonderful and so inspiring book Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use by Toshio Odate (please read this book) and now two years later a few more books, this one the last inspiration that goy me going: http://www.e-hon.ne.jp/bec/SA/Detail?refISBN=4416809115 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the plane, a scraper plane, made for setting up my Japanese planes.
> You can read more about tuning Japanese planes here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started out with some staves of Ash from a old table top.
> On table behind you see the iron I was thinking to use, but this steel was to hard, so I could not create a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fist the opening for the mouth here set for 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the bed for the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cut on the opening gives a stronger edge and allows tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided for a big mouth opening, so that it was easy to look what I was working on.
> Don't know if there are some rules for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut to length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slicing up pieces for the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue and the Krenov magic begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps, never too many!
> Here I also am able to clamp down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drying, this is what we got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut to final size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Braking the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the wood for a wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it all starts to make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a cross pin for holding the wedge.
> Actually the Japanese scraper planes are not made like this, just as the normal planes, the iron is wedge shaped and clamps it self into the plane body this way, but here I use a Western iron, so I have to be creative. Also I try to hold the style of the Japanese planes this way, since they use the pin for holding the chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its just to drill the holes for the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang the pin through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dai-Naoshi-Kanna making shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron I had selected for this project is laminated, with a hard steel on the cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a tour on a diamond plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And correcting the edge, but finding out it is much to hard a steel to ever be able to make a burr, the steel will break before bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut up a cheap block plane iron I had in the drawer.
> (Not as sexy, but softer hardening).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it a burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut down the plane body, this only for the sexy factor… I thought it looked better and would be more easy to control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Giving it my mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAFE tools. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some super fine shaves, it can go from dust to shaves, depending on the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of Japanese or?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now ready to help setting up the rest of the planes.
> A few more planes have arrived since, and the Dai-Naoshi-Kanna have been a friend to them.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Oni,
Thank you, hope it can be useful.
No a chipbreaker will not have any function on a scraper. As the name says it's a 'chip breaker' and the shavings / dust from these scrapers are so fine, they don't need to be broken, you will not have tear out.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*

*Ki-zuchi*
Japanese plane mallets Blog

Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.

As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.

As you can see this project is also from the archive.









First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
(Notice the wood had a natural smiley).









Strips for handles are cut.









Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.









So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.









Next step is to clean up.









I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.









Handles are fitted.
A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.









Like this.









More clean up.
Japanese chisels.









And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
Again just to play and compare.
For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.









Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides. 
Cutting and sanding.









Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
The small one is living by my sharpening station.

Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## meikou

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Lovely job Mads!


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice looking mallets.


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I see several things here that you can make if you can make a trip to Florida.. LOL Nice job Mads. These are both functional and have eye appeal. I have some pieces of deer antler that would make a very nice marking knife handle similar to yours. Had to laugh about the natural smiley face.


----------



## murch

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very cool. I like that little knife in the last pic as well.


----------



## Loren

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Oh. you make me envious. You are a connoisseur of
hammers, clearly.


----------



## siavosh

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very elegant, I like it


----------



## daltxguy

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you Mads-san.
My Japanese is a bit rusty but I believe the concave one is called the Ki-zuchi and the convex one is the Zu-chini


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very nicely done Mads and I know how useful they will be. This reminds me that I should be making some myself soon.


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice adjustment tools, Mads.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Smiles here.
Roger, thanks.
Stefang, a nice little project for a fine evening in the workshop.
daltxguy, 








Big smile.
siavosh, ;-)
murch, .








a knife I made few years back, I named it 'keep it simple'
Ken, I can easy imagine also a few things I could make in Florida, easy. ;-)
I liked this piece of deer antler and found it a perfect fit for the blade.
Actually this knife lives right over my workbench.
Don, thanks.
Meikou, smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## phtaylor36

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great looking mallet Mads. I love the smiley face on the mallet, now you can smile every time you use it.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Philip, I had a nick name as a young man: 'the happy man', so I guess it fits.
Best thoughts and a smile,
Mads


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very nice blog as usual Mads. 
Quite a display of hand tools. I am still partial t the brass mallet.
I must say those are great looking too.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Smiles Ian,








Wall in the new workshop, this might bring you a smile.
(Even the workshop is now under restore, so all my tools are in storage until the new year).


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks for the demo, Mads. Well done… again.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## KOVA

mafe said:


> *Ki-zuchi - Japanese plane mallets Blog*
> 
> *Ki-zuchi*
> Japanese plane mallets Blog
> 
> Since I have quite a few Japanese planes now and they are more and more in use, I wanted Japanese plane hammers or mallets to make adjustments.
> This especially since some of my planes are vintage and I could see how much the irons were damaged after years of use.
> They are also used to strike on wood or delicate tools.
> The Japanese chisels are used with a hammer not a mallet.
> 
> As so often Toshio Odate has been a source of inspiration, also sucking the web and my love for design.
> 
> As you can see this project is also from the archive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First a little fun on the lathe a convex and a concave.
> This for design but also to make a small light and a big heavy mallet.
> (Notice the wood had a natural smiley).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strips for handles are cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill press set for dead centre in the 'drill round stuff' jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a series of holes can be drilled through the heads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to clean up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I play a little with hammers here, trying my Japanese blacksmiths hammer and my carvers mallet, just for fun.
> I prefer a ordinary Japanese hammer, but the black********************hs hammer is also quite fine, due to the weight distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handles are fitted.
> A cut in the centre for a wedge are made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clean up.
> Japanese chisels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with English cabinetmakers chisels.
> Again just to play and compare.
> For paring I prefer the English and for chopping the Japanese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a metal ruler for drawing the curved sides.
> Cutting and sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounding the sides a little and here we are ready to be used.
> I have used them a lot by now and really like them.
> The small one is living by my sharpening station.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making, after all, the tools you make always become special, no matter the nationality.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


*GRACIAS POR LAS ENSEÑANZAS MAESTRO MADS!!!!!!
VOY A HACER UNO Y SUBIRÉ FOTOS PRONTO!!!!!*


----------



## mafe

*Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*

*Bunmawashi*
Japanese marking compass

I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.

In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.

I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.

(As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).









Here is the sketch, less is more.









So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.









Spin that thing!









A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.









Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.









Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.









Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.









Clamping and removing the waste.









Like so.









We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.









Mean clean.
Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.









'Braking' the edges a wee bit.









Nice fit.









Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.









And cut.









And cut…









Edges trimmed.
And put in place.
The knot does that it will not fall out.









Final trim of wedge.









Final trim on the bar.









Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.









Drilling through the bar.









A bang with a hammer.









And we are through.









Wedge goes in.









like so.









Arm goes in.









Tadaaa…









Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.









Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.









Testing.









It works really fine.
And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.

Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.

*Best thoughts from my heart,*
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Wonderful build MADS. Thanks for sharing. Perhaps I will build one of these in the future.


----------



## daltxguy

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Bunmawashi ? (thanks to google )
and perhaps you mean 11.12.13? 12.13.14 will be next year.


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Sweet Mads
A very nice addition to you to your Japanese tools

Jamie


----------



## waho6o9

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Beautiful work Mads!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Auuuchhh, I was a day late daltxguy and yes I even wrote it wrong…, you are allowed to laugh, lol.
Thank you for the name I was spending half a hour last night looking on Google and gave up…
You must by now think I am completely hopeless… Smiles.
Thank you, I will now change the name.
Wayne, thanks, its sweet little build.
Jamie, yes it lives in my Japanese toolbox normally.
waho6o9, thanks.
Best thoughts and a auuuchhh,
Mads


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


well done. I like the wedge idea.


----------



## DaddyZ

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Very Nice !!!


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Thanks for the build process!! You are such a fine hand wood worker!!
Cheers, Jim


----------



## daltxguy

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Not hopeless Mads  You more than make up for it with your fine examples of hand tools and woodwork! I make the errors in my woodworking, you're entitled to a few typos in your text.


----------



## luv2learn

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


This is a very stylish beam compass. Thanks for sharing the process of making it with us.


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


always something new and challenging mads

you make it all so easy to understand

thanks for that


----------



## Notsquare

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Really neat! I really want to study more on Japanese wood working. My wife is Chinese and I research a lot of that style for obvious reasons =)
I wonder how much of it is the same?!? Method and tool wise anyway. Well excellent post, thank you for sharing and in such detail!


----------



## phtaylor36

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


That is a fantastic compass Mads, I like it! Job well done.


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Inspiring work Mads. Your projects are always creative, clean and full of spirit and imagination. This compass looks great! All the best.


----------



## BTimmons

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Yeah, that's going in my favorites. Great work.


----------



## MarioF

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Thank you Mads, already got started on one, it´s just so nice


----------



## FirehouseWoodworking

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Well done, as always!

Cheers!


----------



## madts

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Very well done Mads.


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Whatever you name it, it's fantastic.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


You do great blogs Mads! thanks.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Great blog Mads.
The pictures are impressive as usual.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Very well done Mafesan. You are the no.1 tool honcho. Excellent tutorial blog.


----------



## CFrye

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Another great blog Mads! And another great tool. Simple, elegant, eminently useful. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## JanKrompan1

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Yes thank you, it will defnitely inspire me to make one for myself and for gifts for my friends.

Regards.

Jan.


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Realy cool Mads, I must get that Odate book.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi*
> Japanese marking compass
> 
> I post my blog no 200 here, amazing how time is running and that so many blogs have been made from me playing with wood and trying to understand how to work it.
> I will like to thank you all here on LJ, for all the inspiration you have given me, good advice, friendships and kind words that kept me posting.
> 
> In this blog I make a Toshio Odate inspired compass.
> 
> I dedicate this blog to all my friends here at LJ and since it is my 23 blog on Japanese tools of course also to Toshio Odate, who has been such a huge inspiration to me.
> 
> (As some of you can see this project is also from the archive, the old workshop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sketch, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we start with a piece of oak on the table saw.
> Cutting up strips and a blank for turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spin that thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A broken drill bit is grinded to a pin in each part.
> And at the end of the cone, a hole is drilled to match the bit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the parts and with the bit inserted in the cone.
> I also burned my mark on the wood as you can see.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the 'mortise', decided to go as low as possible for stability.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Drilling a series of holes in the centre jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Clamping and removing the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like sharp tools so a quick hone before cleaning up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mean clean.
> Notice the hole are following the wedge, so only bottom goes straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Braking' the edges a wee bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedge is finally drawn up so it makes a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edges trimmed.
> And put in place.
> The knot does that it will not fall out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim of wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final trim on the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill bit to fit pin, use a wee bit smaller one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bang with a hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we are through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arm goes in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tadaaa…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I drilled the hole a little to deep so it goes into the hole, I deside to fix it with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are Japan meets MaFesan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really fine.
> And with no doubt it is the sexiest compass I have.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire to some tool making and once more thank you all.
> 
> *Best thoughts from my heart,*
> Mads


Hi fi - high five…
Thanks for all these wonderful comments.
Mauricio, yes you need that!
Jan, this will make me really happy.
Candy, happy to share.
Stefang, no.1 tool honcho that's a new one, lol.
Ian, Canon Eos 600D, a nice lens and passion.
Topa, smiles.
Roger, Mads is my name.
Madts, Mad(ts)...
Dave, ;-)
Mario, looks forward to see it.
Brian, then I'm happy.
JJW, a humble and happy smile.
Philip, big warm smile.
Notsquare, you will find that there is quite a big difference in the Japanese and Chinese traditional tools, it's going to be a interesting tour, keep us updated.
David, it's because I'm slow… lol.
Lee, I am also fascinated.
Daltxguy, smiles, I do try!
Jim, I did use the lathe… But do enjoy it and think I need a pole lathe soon.
Daddyz, smiles.
Donw, it's amazing how many places these wedges can be used.
Best thoughts to all of you,
Mads
Best of my thoughts,¨
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*

*Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
MaFe style Kanna jointer









I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months. 
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.









Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade. 
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting). 
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.









Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.









In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.









Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).









A touch up on the edge.









Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).









So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.









First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.









Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….









Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.









Better yes!









This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.









Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.









Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.









Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.









But some use a bigger version like this one…









Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.









Now we are getting a cutting edge.









So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).









Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).









Like this. ;-)









Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.









So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.









A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.









Getting there.









Marking.









And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## siavosh

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Perfect timing! My first kanna is being delivered next week. Eagerly looking forward to your next post.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Keep up the good work Madssan!


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Here a video from Sumokun of the process:


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Super photo journey, Mads!

Looks like that glove is starting to show a little wear.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I was wondering what have happened to your hand to have so many bandages until I realize you tore the glove 

Those small screens are good for nothing.

Great blog Mafe!


----------



## swirt

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice metalwork Mafe. As always, it was fun following along on your adventure.


----------



## CFrye

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks for the pics and explanation of your journey Mads. Wonderful shavings from a beautiful tool! At first I thought the sound was off on the video, then reminded myself a Japanese plane cuts on the pull. LOL!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer*
> 
> *Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore*
> MaFe style Kanna jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
> So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
> Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
> First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
> Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
> [Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
> First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
> The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
> I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
> (Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A touch up on the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can see how the blade is.
> The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
> (This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
> There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so.
> I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was what we came from.
> A blade with no cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
> Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But some use a bigger version like this one…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting a cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut of the ears.
> This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
> But I'm sure it will work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back to the sharpening station.
> First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
> It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
> This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a happy MaFe-San.
> 
> All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
> 
> Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi there,
Lol Candy, yes I can imagine your confusion, Mads reversed… The pull is really good for my neck and shoulders.
Swirt, you know I love to learn new - and this was a new path to walk, so I was like a fish in water. ;-)
Ianwater, lol, yes I can see it looks like I'm wounded. Thanks.
Lew, I will buy a new… (It's always happening to me when I sharpen).
Soda, ;-)
siavosh, sounds wonderful, then the blogs will have a purpose.
Thank you for taking time to comment, best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*

*MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)









This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.









So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.









Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.









As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.









What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.









Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.









Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.









Both sides. ;-) 
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…









For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!









Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.









Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda









The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.









Tataaaaa!









Kanna-mi in place!









Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.









Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.









"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:





*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## racerglen

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


That's amazing ! Mafe you did it ! (BUT…there was a whole lot of foreplay my friend ! ;-)
Beautiful work as usual.


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Those shavings are proof of your masterful skills, Mads!

Thanks for the video, too, it was "crisp $h*t"


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


nothing wrong with that outcome.


----------



## Timbo

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wonderful plane Mads, just perfect. Good to see you getting to finish this long distance project!


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mmmmmmm, paperthin shevingzzzz… luvem.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Those are nice shavings Mafe.

Very well doe.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


what's the clamp on your drill press for?

It seems way high to be holding and stock.


----------



## alba

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


The sounds of the shaves
Smiles remain silent
Wonderful Mads

Jamie


----------



## llwynog

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great looking and wonderful sounding plane!


----------



## 7Footer

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very cool Mads. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## jjw5858

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice plane and wonderful shaves! Great job Mads.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you all for the comments.
Today I spend in bed with a virus… (There are more fun things to spend a day in bed with)...
jjw, sweet shaves oh yes and yesterday I did a little tuning, so it is now running smoooottthhhh. 
7Footer, smiles.
llwynog, the sound of music.
Jamie, my sweet friend, yes finally it makes the sweet sound, smell and shaves - smile broad and silent.
Ian, lol, the switch is broken, so it's a power switch… Don't do this at home!
Soda, yes like silk and shiny too.
Tim, the world is my oyster…
Don, nothing wrong with grown up men playing with toys. ;-)
Lew, F*c* I love your comment.
racerglen, yes I guess we need that foreplay to keep it smooth.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Woodfix

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


LIKE


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Big smile Woodfix, that was the coolest comment!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Fantastic result Mads! You make some really fine tools and I always learn something from your blogs.


----------



## mochoa

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Its a beauty Mads!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).*
> 
> *MaFe style Kanna jointer II*
> Japan meets Krenov
> 
> In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.
> 
> Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
> Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
> Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back in the work shop.
> The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
> File with side teeth's.
> A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
> A fine rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
> Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
> This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
> You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's all up to precision and patience.
> No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
> Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides. ;-)
> "Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like so!
> "Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kanna-mi in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
> It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
> My ohhhh I did it!
> A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
> So I better just get into business.
> 
> And here the evidence, I made you a short video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mike and Mauricio.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*

*Bunmawashi with pen holder*
Japanese beam compass

Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…









Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.









The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.









Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.









Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
Remember the slope for the wedge.
(You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).









Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.









Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.









Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.









Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
(Trust me, I have done this several times).









Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.









For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.









For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.









Now the wedges can be drawn.
I choose some contrasting wood.









Sawn out.









Now the beam can be locked in place.









Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
Here drilling holes through some stock.









Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.









Drilling through the beam.
(Out of focus).









Taddddaaaaa!
A pen holder.









The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.









Then I can make some more, one for each beam.









Taper, taper.









Cut.









Here some of the ideas on sketch.









Drilling the pen hole.









Marking for the wedge hole.









Pre drill.
Remember the wedge angle.









Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.









To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.









Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content









Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.









The pen holder result.
Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.









Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
It works really well, so I am pleased.









Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
Fist some hardwood.









Turning a wee thing…









This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.









Here it is, the thing on a window.









And with the compass set in the hole.









As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.









And set in wood.









Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.









The head folded up for transport.









All ready to go.









The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.









Here just waiting to be picked up.









On a mission?
You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.









Ok, a peace mission…
(Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).









Finally Lena came to pick it up!
I will say no more than, please look at that face.
You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
I am a happy man.

Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Most Excellent, Mads!

You are right, that smile says it all!


----------



## JR45

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Brilliant, no other word to describe this! 
Jim


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Fantastic work Mads!


----------



## steliart

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


what a nice beam compass and an excellent build-up post Mads… thumbs up buddy  !!!


----------



## madts

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Just plain great Mads.

-Madts.


----------



## JoeLyddon

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very NICE!


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice tutorial, Mads! She looks very happy with it. I recognized that sanding damage on your fingers right away. Been done that, too!! They take a long time to heal compare to cuts!
I could not help but notice the planer in the kitchen. Do you know how long I could get away with that here????

Nice work, my friend!!.....................cheers, Jim


----------



## MLWilson

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


What an amazing artist is Lena.


----------



## Lemongrasspicker

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very awesome! It's a very wonderful gift and I'm sure that she'll get some great use out of it


----------



## builtinbkyn

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Well done Mads! I love the step by step presentation and especially the sketches you worked from. The project formulates in your minds eye, then to paper and then to reality. You have a very happy recipient there too, it seems. Excellent!


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Another lovely and humouristic blog. The bumawashi came out lovely!


----------



## CFrye

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you for your detailed blogs on tool building. Always a treat to read, Mads. Lena's smile does say a lot, and her art is smile inducing!


----------



## swirt

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great build Mafe. A fun read. Sorry about your fingers.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi there,
swirt, smiles, yes that one hurted for a while, but all fine now, not eevn a mark.
CFrye, she is quite a talented woman yes. I am always impressed when I see what she is up to. Thanks.
kaerlighedsbamsen, thanks I try to make it a wee more than woodworking, so I am really happy for the words.
builtinbkyn, I do work in a quite unsystematic way, kind of mix up drawings, ideas as I go and just finding my way. If I work from sketch I tend to get bored and feel like it's a job, also I feel shape is better judged in real life. Thanks.
Lemongrasspicker, I have to admit I will be looking for round objects in her paintings by now. ;-) Smiles.
Mark Wilson, yes she is a special kind, a smile maker I feel.
Jim Jakosh, ha ha ha, yes the planner in the kitchen! It is my workshop kitchen, that's why, so I am the only one to get upset, when I find shavings in the food. Laugh. Thanks.
Joe Lyddon, smiles.
madts, I will go for PLANE great. ;-)
steliart, as long as you keep the fingers out of the sander. Tank you.
Brit, thank you with a smile.
Jim Rowe, a shiny smile on my lips says thank you.
lew, yes it made it all make sense. Thanks.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## phtaylor36

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Fantastic, just fantastic. I love home-made tools, especially for drafting.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you Philip.
Me too, always way more fun to use.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice blog how to Mads. Yep, those sanders will eat up some finger flesh.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Bunmawashi with pen holder - Japanese beam compass*
> 
> *Bunmawashi with pen holder*
> Japanese beam compass
> 
> Last time I posted a Japanese compass it was back in 2013 on my blog no 200, now we are in 2017 and this is blog 331 I think, so it must be about time to do one again.
> This time the Bunmawashi was not for me though, but for an artist friend who do wall paintings and did a series for elderly homes, where they have dementia, she told me she needed one, normally up to 120 cm, but at times big circles also and also she needed to be able to use different tools for it, so she could draw on different materials, even glass…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the old one behind and eyeballed it on the lathe on some exotic hardwood.
> Knew this one had to be bigger and more sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The usual sanding, grids: 120 180 320 600 1200 and finally shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking up for the beam and the wedge.
> Putting a pen one something flat and turning it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pre drill for the chisel work, this is just for saving time.
> Remember the slope for the wedge.
> (You can read more in my last blog; http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/38511).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice I make the holes smaller than the actual size, like this I have room for mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honing the chisels on a loaded strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the edges again a wee on the good side of the pen, so I can clean up at the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's just to go for it and be careful not to go through before the backside are pre cut also, otherwise you might make a tear out.
> (Trust me, I have done this several times).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made what we in Denmark call a cow (ko), a jig to hold it while working, this makes it sometimes easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the beams I found different types of wood and the first one I finished up with planes and a card scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next beams, I ran the wood through the thicknesser first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wedges can be drawn.
> I choose some contrasting wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the beam can be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step was to try and figure out a way to make a pen holder.
> Made a few sketches and then tried my way.
> Here drilling holes through some stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turning it on the lathe and giving it a tapered shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the beam.
> (Out of focus).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taddddaaaaa!
> A pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge locks the pen in place and it can be used with different sizes of tools.
> I am happy with this, think it match the original design and use same ways of holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I can make some more, one for each beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taper, taper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some of the ideas on sketch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the pen hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the wedge hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre drill.
> Remember the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning up the hole, just as I did on the compass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make a pen for the compass, an old broken drill bit gets new life.
> Mount it in a accu drill, spin it against your grinder, like this you can fast and easily shape it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it in the compass with epoxy glue.
> Out of focus again, the focus is on my fingers… Yes I wear band aid…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see why… As I was using the disc sander on this project for some clean up, I slipped my fingers into the grid 60… bad idea. This is how the fingers look one week after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pen holder result.
> Here mounted with a scratch awl, I made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how it locks with the wedge.
> It works really well, so I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last part of the task, was to be able to use it on glass.
> This was one that I had to think about but came up with an idea.
> Fist some hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning a wee thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thing and under it, is this stuff you use to hang posters on the children's rooms, sticky stuff, we call it elephant snot in Denmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, the thing on a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the compass set in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it can even hold it's own weight, so that should be a winner.
> It can also be used to cut foils on glass, when mounting a cutter in the pen holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And set in wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this little utility holder, with different tools, extra wedges, cutter, eraser, elephant snot and pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The head folded up for transport.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tree arms in different lengths and utility's hold together by O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here just waiting to be picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a mission?
> You can see here that the longest arm are app. two meters so some serious circles can be made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, a peace mission…
> (Stop it MaFe, you are not funny as your daughter tells you so often).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Lena came to pick it up!
> I will say no more than, please look at that face.
> You can also take a look at her website: http://www.lenah.dk/
> I am a happy man.
> 
> Hope this blog can inspire others to make some tools.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you Roger.
Just happy it was not a router that got me. ;-) Auuuccchhhhh!
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## HammerSmith

mafe said:


> *Japanese hand plane KANNA setup
> 
> Japanese hand plane setup*
> Fitting, tuning and sharpening.
> 
> *If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!*
> This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
> It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.
> 
> Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
> So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).
> 
> ...
> 
> Almost there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am happy.
> Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
> First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
> The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
> When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
> For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).
> 
> The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
> To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the front end (behind the blade).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
> Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> Mads


I know this is an old post, but I just want to say "Thanks Mads!"

I recently won a box of kanaa at an estate auction and I looked all around trying to find good info on setting them up. This blog is, far and away, the best!

The info about setting up the dai was particularly hard to find. The way you drew it on a stick was a perfect way to explain it. Well done, and thanks again!


----------

