# How does one get a straight cut with a bandsaw?



## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Is it me or does everyone have problems cutting straight with a band saw? (Mine does not have a fence) I make my mark, draw my line and then line that line up to the blade. As I push the wood through I find myself having to move the wood left and right in order to keep the blade on (or at least NEAR) the line I'm trying to cut. What pray tell am I doing wrong??


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## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

This was linked in another bandsaw thread .. it's an amazing amount of information





I plan on going through all the motions to set up my bandsaw like he shows as soon as I get some free time away from work.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I do not have problems cutting straight with a band saw.

Getting the results you want is a matter of understanding how 
the machine works and setting it up to do the task diligently.


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

To put some flesh on Loren's reply:

A well-tuned bandsaw with a good, sharp blade will cut straight and give a good finish. In my experience the quality of cut does not reach that of the top-end blades available for table saws, but you can come close.

You won't be able to cut as straight freehand as you can with a fence so that's your first job. It would also be a good idea to read up on bandsaw setup as there are a lot more things to set/adjust/worry about on a bandsaw (compared to a table saw) and you won't be able to cut well until you get a handle on that stuff.

Good luck !


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Thanks Jeremy, I'll ckeck it out once I get home. My work computer does not have sound.

MC - I'm sure a fence would help out el'mucho. I'll have to see if this saw has a fence option.


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

Centering the gullet of the blade on the wheel as opposed to centering the entire blade on the wheel is new to me…..anyone else have luck with doing that?


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

Harold, don't think you have to buy a fence. You can, of course, and it will have a lot of advantages, the biggest being quick to adjust. But you can make your own and clamp it to the table.


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## Derakon (Jun 19, 2012)

I just asked this same question recently in this thread . You might find some useful information there. Good luck!


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## Heisbert (Jun 7, 2012)

Here's the jig you need to produce nice, straight cuts. Begin by cutting pieces and assembling them. Once you have all the parts assembled, position the fence on your bandsaw, and tighten the handle to secure the fence in place. Test-rip on a piece of scrap, and alternately loosen one machine screw and tighten the other until the fence is parallel to the cutting track of the blade. Be sure to loosen and tighten the screws the same amount to avoid bowing the fence. But if you work without fence, you may do it with your own convenient way as long as you feed the wood on a right track, though it would require good control when you feed the wood.


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## jim454 (Oct 17, 2011)

Here is link on how to How to Set Up a Bandsaw by Michael C. Fortune. How to Set Up a Bandsaw


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Try using a fence, and adjusting the fence for drift. A sharp blade helps.
Actually I only use my bandsaw for rough cutting, like taking the bark edge off a wide plank. Then its over to the jointer to true it up. 
Same with curves. Rough cut to shape at the bandsaw, then pattern rout or sand to final shape.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Jeremy, just watched the video. Learned a LOT of little things I was close on, but not dead on. Will cut better this weekend for sure! Thanks!!


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

The Snodgrass video on You Tube soleved all of my drift problems.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Good thread Harold, and thanks for the video Jeremy, and the link Jim454


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## Alongiron (Jan 10, 2011)

You can have all the jigs and fences and videos you want but if you do not have the right blade…your in trouble. Get a wood slicer blade from highland woodworking and your bandsaw experience will change forever!


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

WOW! So many wonderful LJ's willing to help a "rough cut" guy like me. This is so humbling and a major reason I LOVE Lumberjocks. Thank you all so much for your time and advice.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

The Carter guy (Snodgrass) has it right … I like Fortune & Duginske, but they are dead wrong on this issue … center the deepest part of the gullet on the centerline of the wheel, and it will cut correctly.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Make sure the blade is sharp and tight, and make sure there isn't more than a quarter inch play in it. only expose enough of the blade to pass the work through with a half inch to spare. The blade should stay straight if you push it straight. I just upgraded to a Timberwolf blade and man what a difference.


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## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

Snodgrass also says that coplanar is not needed, and unless things are really out of whack I agree. I feel that it is more to satisfy ones OCD than get a good cut.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Finally got a chance to watch the video suggested by LJ Jeremy. Thanks brother. Man that was some great information. Seems like Alex has done this demo at least once or twice in the past!!!


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## AJLastra (Apr 19, 2012)

HJT

Just following up. How'd you do with your bandsaw setup issues? Have you solved your blade drift problem?


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Aj - I've not had a chance to begin working with the bandsaw. Watching that vidie that Jeremy posted was very informative. I'll have to watch the one that jim454 posted. Also, Heisbert sent me a PM with the following link - www.bandsawblog.com..


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

hjt for what it is worth I find most of the time I have problems with my bandsaw wandering it is because I am not taking my time with the piece.


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)

I know this is a old post but I figured since I recently went through tuning my old 1916 Silver 20" saw I would make a post for posterity.
When I got the saw it was equipped with a 3/8" blade not sure on TPI there are at least 8 as a guess.
The Kid I got it off said he couldn't keep the blade on.
He had put urethane tires on and after removing them I saw that a previous owner had used Friction tape to crown the wheels. 
I removed the tape and reapplied the tires adjusted the tension and guides.
It cut like a dream but of coarse I was not resawing at the time.
The saws original table is just a Cast Flat top, no miter slot or fence.
I had Table saw top for a Shop Smith so I Adapted it and mounted it mostly for the fence.
Ordered a 3/4" wood slicer from highland and let me tell you that saw was a completely different beast.
Not in a good way either, it was bucking around like a Bronco! 
I figured out 1. The narrow blade must have been slipping on the wheels and the full speed & force of the motor was not transferred. The wider Blade though different story.
So my conclusion was the Blade was spinning to fast, the 2 hp motor runs at 1750 rpm and the pulleys where a 2 to 1 ratio (SFPM: 4,579) , I put on a drive pulley twice the size giving me a 4 to 1 ratio (SFPM: 2,290).
That solved the Bouncing Saw issue.
SFPM calculator http://vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx
In the wood slicer instruction sheet they recommend setting the Fence to the drift, which does work but imo is silly and hard to set up consistently.
I had the table mounted squarely to the mount on the saw body the problem was the mount was sloppy and the table and there fore fence was not square to the blade in either direction.
I took the time to adjust,shim and square the table to the blade.
I can now consistently rip veneers like a pro.
If you followed all the conventional advice and still have issues, try slowing you saws wheel speed, I think there is a general consensus that drift is a direct result of the blade not clearing the saw dust fast enough and it gets pushed to one side of the blade (reason for deep gullets and less TPI on thick materials) 
If you have to skew your fence take the time to Square your table.
I also subscribe to Matthias Wandel school of thought on tension, that is its just about impossible to over tension a blade, more so on smaller saws and wide blades and its far more detrimental to not have enough tension.
I would post some pics but I don't have any of those picture accounts to share…


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> The Carter guy (Snodgrass) has it right … I like Fortune & Duginske, but they are dead wrong on this issue … center the deepest part of the gullet on the centerline of the wheel, and it will cut correctly.
> - Fuzzy


I think it's a hung jury on this idea and maybe depends on the saw. First of all, in most cases you can't center the gullet of a 3/4" blade on the wheel of a 14" bs without having the back edge of the blade hanging off of or close to the edge of the top wheel. As I've mentioned before, I just bought a new Laguna 1412. Their instructions say to center the blade. Regardless of the blade, 1/8" up to 3/4" I center the blade, not the gullet and it has always cut perfectly with no drift and no adjustment right out of the box.


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)

I have my blade riding the outside edge. 
That is teeth off the wheel. 
Think of it as tension vs tooth set.

I do think a lot has to do with the saw.
Not wood working related but more a tolerance/manufacturing issue.
Many and mostly newer things are just sloppy.
The older stuff I think more from wear.

I would not run a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw , I think even a 20" is a little small but more in reason.

I wish I could post some pics…


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## Magnum (Feb 5, 2010)

> I do not have problems cutting straight with a band saw.
> 
> Getting the results you want is a matter of understanding how
> the machine works and setting it up to do the task diligently.
> ...


YEP! Dats It!

Rick


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I would not run a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw , I think even a 20" is a little small but more in reason.
> 
> I wish I could post some pics…
> - ToolingAround


Depends on the saw and the blade. Cocobolo cut with a 3/4" resaw king blade on a 14" Laguna. Like butta. Some pics.


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)

I did not say you could not, I said I would not.
This wood slicer ran me 50 bucks and I want all the life I can get lol.
At 3/4" I can resharpen it till its a 3/8 blade.
that is as long as its not metal fatigued.
Ya I wont harden the teeth that is a little beyond me but I can sharpen it as need be.

Andy are you using a point fence?

What is your life expectancy on a 3/4 blade on a 14" saw?


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

No. It's the tall fence that comes with the saw. As far as life expectancy, I have no idea. The saw is only 6 months old, but I have cut a bunch of oak, bubinga, maple and now that cocobolo and it feels the same. I had to call Laguna to ask a question and happened to mention that I posted a youtube vid about how much I loved the saw and they sent me another 3/4" resaw king no charge! So, I'm a happy camper. I can send one out to be re-sharpened since it's carbide with no worries. I know they are spendy and I would not have bought the first one had it not been on sale but I wanted to get the same results everyone raved about so I bought it. Every little thing on a bs seems to effect (affect?) every other little thing so I wanted no excuses. It has cut straight right out of the box with no adjustment for drift regardless of the blade (3/4, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8) which I always just center it on the wheel. Now I'm a convert and that's what I will buy. I use the 1/2" blade to resaw softer woods.


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)




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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> - ToolingAround


Can't see that


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)

ok I figured it out.


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## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

> Centering the gullet of the blade on the wheel as opposed to centering the entire blade on the wheel is new to me…..anyone else have luck with doing that?
> 
> - jtbinvalrico


Never done it differently. Seems to naturally stat centered that was and then you can change out blades and only have to adjust the back roller of the guides.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Iv'e never had any luck trying to center gullet on wheel on either of my machines.

I tried do duplicate Mr. Snodgrass advocates but in the end, what difference does it make. Every time you change blades you have to re-tune anyway..

For me, its just to quick and easy to adjust a fence for drift. NO, this doesn't mean your bandsaw is not setup correctly. Its related to coplanar/non coplanar wheels and how the machine was designed. If its in the owners manual, for gosh sakes!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

If I wanted a perfectly straight cut suitable without jointing, I wouldn't go to the bandsaw. I would use the table saw. I really don't believe a perfectly straight cut can be made on a bandsaw, especially if the cut is of great length. On short pieces of wood, it may be possible, but to me it's a hit-or-miss proposition. A thin bandsaw blade can be deflected very easily when feeding the wood into the blade. A circular saw blade resists deflection much more easily. I would challenge anyone to rip boards on a bandsaw and glue them up into a wide board without jointing them first. I admit I have never tried to glue up boards that were cut on a bandsaw, but I have done so with a table saw.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sometimes..it would be as simple as replacing the worn out bearings….


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## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

Andy - that book match is beautiful! That is a great sell for the resaw king.

I have a good 3/4 blade (not name brand, went with a real blade manufacturer in OH that makes them for Timberwolf and others) on a PM1500 and until I learned the saw and got it set right, straight cuts were not simple. It is now.

The Carter/Snodgrass setup worked fine. And the point is that you have a lot less to adjust with each blade.

My only concern is that I am super strong. Like, seriously strong. How do I really know if I have the right tension? Maybe Snodgrass is only average finger strength. No really, wife says my fingers… nevermind.


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)

> If I wanted a perfectly straight cut suitable without jointing, I wouldn t go to the bandsaw. I would use the table saw. I really don t believe a perfectly straight cut can be made on a bandsaw, especially if the cut is of great length. On short pieces of wood, it may be possible, but to me it s a hit-or-miss proposition. A thin bandsaw blade can be deflected very easily when feeding the wood into the blade. A circular saw blade resists deflection much more easily. I would challenge anyone to rip boards on a bandsaw and glue them up into a wide board without jointing them first. I admit I have never tried to glue up boards that were cut on a bandsaw, but I have done so with a table saw.
> 
> - MrRon


That is fine for some stuff but you cant rip a 2×4 through the face side on a 10" tablesaw.
Let alone 10" and 12" wide boards
And if you ripping a slew of smaller stuff you loose a 1/8 " every cut.
One thing I wanted the saw for was Bent Laminations.
Not a huge deal if your truing up boards.
I know there are larger Tablesaws and radial arm saws but they are not that common.
I'd love to find a old 16" in Both saws.
I have to think though the kerf would be more then a 1/8"


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## dalepage (Feb 6, 2016)

Buy good blades. It makes a difference. I recommend Wood Slicers from Highland.


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## ToolingAround (Mar 21, 2017)

> Buy good blades. It makes a difference. I recommend Wood Slicers from Highland.
> 
> - dalepage


Yes the wood slicer so far is nice!
Little pricey but nice.
I pretty sure I could get by with a few swipes of 220 grit to clean up the cuts I've made with mine so far.


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