# Does anyone use a jobsite saw as their primary TS?



## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

I would really like to hear from the woodworkers out there who use a jobsite saw as their primary table saw.

Do you feel limited?

What workarounds, compromises do you encounter?

What miter gauge set up do you use?

I know most of us here covet the cabinet saw, but I have to think there are many woodworkers out there making great stuff with their Bosch, Dewalt, Ridgid, Makita, etc job sites saws.

I'd love to get your input on this.


----------



## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

In this past year, I alternate mainly between makerspace shoptime on a Delta Unisaw, and my Dewalt DWE7491. To a lesser degree, I also use a SawStop contractor saw with the T-Glide fence in my guild shop. There is a noticeable difference, but if you curb your expectations, you can get a good amount of woodworking done on a jobsite saw.

Here are my highlights:

Infeed space is the first major difference. Jobsite saws generally provide ~5-7 inches of infeed space, whereas a contractor/hybrid/cabinet saw will provide 12-14" of infeed space. Less infeed space meeds less fence registration space and material support before a cut. Depending on the size of material you work with, material support to the left of the blade will also be a factor. 
The fence is the second major difference. I don't think any jobsite saw will match the heft of a Biesemeyer style fence. My experience is with both the Delta made Biesemeyer and the SawStop T-Glide. Even though my Dewalt fence has many compelling user-friendly aspects of it, it is a thin aluminum vs. steel square tubing with solid faces. Deflection hasn't been a problem yet, but I suspect it has a lower tolerance for flexing/deflection.
You're more likely to bog down the motor of a jobsite saw than a 1.75HP+ motor. I have yet to really bog down the Unisaw cabinet saw, rarely bog the SawStop contractor saw, and definitely bogged down my Dewalt many a time. This one can be overcome by feed rate, blade selection, and possibly taking multiple cuts for deeper cuts. 
Surprisingly, vibration is not as much an issue on my Dewalt. It's amazingly stable with just the rubber feet. However, don't expect it to pass the nickel test.

I've split my work between those options and find that I can accomplish smaller projects on the jobsite saw. From a safety standpoint, I haven't built enough jigs to feel confident about safely working larger workpieces with my jobsite saw (i.e. crosscut 12"+ in length, or rip material that is wider than 24" and 48" long)


----------



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Not any more. I used a Delta jobsite saw for a couple years as my only table saw.

Did I feel limited? Somewhat. Since I use a lot of hand tools, a table saw was primarily to rip to width. Looking back versus where I am now using a Craftsman contractor saw, I realize there were more limitations than I had realized. More importantly, current saw is much quieter and safer-due to being more stable, larger table and better fence. Two of those issues could have been solved by building a workstation, but I found the current saw for a bargain price first. The quality of cut was also pretty poor on the jobsite saw, so required more cleanup before proceeding with a project.

Workarounds? Because of how I was using it, not very many.

I was using the stock miter gauge, especially since the slots were not standard width.

Now, all of that was on an older jobsite saw. If you had one of the newer saws, especially the larger jobsite saws like the DWE7491 (or the older DW744), Bosch 4100 or similar, then they have a bit larger tables and standard width miter slots. That would help a little bit. You are still going to deal with the louder and less efficient universal motor and lower mass. Regardless, you can still produce quality projects by working through the limitations.

My biggest problem with getting one of those is that for the price of a good quality jobsite saw, you are at nearly the same cost as a contractor saw from Delta, Steel City, Ridgid or Craftsman that are just much better saws for woodworking and don't take up much more room.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> ....My biggest problem with getting one of those is that for the price of a good quality jobsite saw, you are at nearly the same cost as a contractor saw from Delta, Steel City, Ridgid or Craftsman that are just much better saws for woodworking and don t take up much more room.
> 
> - JayT


These guys have given some excellent insights. If you NEED portability, it's hard to get around that fact. If not, you can do good work with a portable, but there's next to no advantage in going with a portable over a decent full size saw….price or performance.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can do it but they tend to be underpowered
for ripping 8/4 hardwoods.

I think a little old Delta tilt-top 9" saw is a nice one
for joinery and the footprint is real compact. They
are accurate because the arbor is fixed.

Now in terms of ripping a band saw works well
but of course the blades are not as durable as
table saw blades.

Saws with universal direct drive motors are also 
more annoying to the ears… high frequency sound.

There's the Scottish guy who developed some interesting
jigs for exapanding the accuracy and safety of 
portable table saws…. called the Jimmie Jig.


----------



## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

My feedback is on one of the larger jobsite saws. I used to have a bottom of the line saw and it was utterly useless. It was too light, impossible to adjust, and an utterly useless fence. In short, an accident waiting to happen (for me). The jump up to the highend jobsite saw (Dewalt) represents the extent of I was willing to go. I debated between the Dewalt, Bosch, and Ridgid. In the end, the Dewalt had the most compelling fence to ensure it locks down parallel to the blade.

As Jay and Knotscott pointed out, IF you need portability. At home, I need portability to move my saw in and out of my house to use. In short, I accepted the downsides of a jobsite saw for the portability.


----------



## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I have the Bosch 4100 or some number. Get a good blade and no problems. Don't have a mitre gauge but assuming anyone of the good brands would work better then the crap it comws with. Cuts cherry, bloodwood, black walnut no prob. Cut a lot of wood on it with the Diablo thin curf, beatiful cuts. Never felt limited except wide cuts, ply wood, wide table tops, but i usully use a circular saw for that stuff. What can i say the finish carpenter/framer comes out in a pinch.


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

I have the Bosch 4100. I primarily make furniture. I have this saw due to space constraints. If I had enough sq. ft. I would have a hybrid or cabinet saw set up with permanent infeed/outfeed, etc. I don't, so the Bosch is the work-around. It sits on a shop made cart with lockdowns, and is very stable. The biggest limitation is breaking down full sheets of ply. I have tables I set up for infeed/outfeed, and I do have to be careful with a full sheet - I can move the saw with that much leverage. I weight it down when doing this. The 2nd limitation was the factory blade, but that can be said of about any saw - a Freud Diablo combination blade solved it. With the Diablo blade I realized a lot of the saw noise wasn't the motor, but the factory blade - it's much quieter now. I suppose another limitation is dust collection - The Bosch isn't bad, but I'm sure the enclosed saws are much better - thing is, the dust that's a problem for me is what's above the table, and none of them have that solved.

The saw has all the guts I've needed - it will cut right through 3" thick red oak. The only time the saw bogs is due to stress relieving the wood grain during rip cuts and pinching down on the blade. I guess if I needed to feed 3" thick wood at a fast rate I would make use of a larger motor, but the saw has had plenty of motor for my uses. I use a router vs dado blades, so I can't comment on that.

I use the miter gauge that came with it, but I don't use it a lot. I drilled and tapped the runner and installed nylon screws to take up the slack. I use sleds for cross cuts and 45°. The miter works ok for in between angles when needed.

Other than the table/infeed/outfeed space (for which I set up tables at deck height when needed), I don't feel compromised at all. I'm sure there are some things folks do on cabinet saws that might be an issue on the Bosch, but I haven't come across that situation yet. I suspect it would have to do with managing large pieces. I do commonly crosscut 10 ft long lumber. The fence works perfectly fine for me, but I haven't used one of the top-a line models, so I don't know what I'm missing.

We all have to make decisions based on our situation and needs, which involves lots of compromises. The result may not be the best of any single aspect, such as a table saw, but the best system with which we can do what we want or need to do.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

There have been very many post of folks that bought a job site saw that sold it in a year or less to upgrade to a saw with a bigger table,better fence and more power. unless your only going to make very some projects like bird houses or small boxes I would suggest getting a bigger saw. It's not impossible to use them for bigger projects but it can be very challenging,because they tend to bog down unless you really slow down your feed rate,tip over when sawing longer heavier pieces and the fences tend to flex. a larger contractor style saw can be purchased used for the same amount or less as a job site saw.


----------



## jeffswildwood (Dec 26, 2012)

I have a bare bones skil table saw. All I could afford and space available. I do hope to up grade in the future if I can. Limitations are many. Accuracy, power and table size are the most limitations. I overcome size with a circular saw. Accuracy I fight every time. Measure using a tape measure at the front and back of the blade to the fence. I still use it every project and my projects seem to come out fine. Just a real challenge and time consumer.


----------



## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks for all the great input. BTW cost is not an issue. Space and portability is.

I have always seen the limited infeed space as a drawback but figured that could be mitigated with cross cutting with a miter saw. Also the BT3 type saw used the sliding table to get around that as well.

It seems the new motors with soft start and electronic speed control have upped the ante on these saws. Fences are always a worry but reading some magazine reviews it seems these have gotten better as well.

It's great to hear those who are cutting hard woods with these saws. I know these saws are not perfect but there seems to be quite a few people using them from various website reviews. I was wondering how much the users like us, who have pretty high standards for our tools really like them, or did they feel like the just couldn't wait to upgrade because the compromises were too great for them.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Bosch ~4100 on a fixed base… Love it!

... found a good deal via Craigslist a few years ago.


----------



## coachjohnson (Jan 6, 2012)

I've only ever used a job site saw and have gotten by just fine. Started with a Skil brand 10 inch saw and now using a porter cable 10 inch jobsite saw. I can break down sheet goods with circular saw. Lol I reach shop in high school and have a top of the line saw stop and honestly I like my little contractor saw better


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

There is a new portable Saw Stop that might be worth some thought…. ~ $1300. Handy for protecting hot dogs. ;-)


----------



## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

Scott,
It reminds me of the Bosch in looks, obviously a few more upgrades. $1300 seems a bit steep, they remind me of Apple, arrogant and overpriced. I bet that sucker is a real brute of a saw dust maker though. Wondr if they will dicker, my Bosch and my Delta 6in portable jointer straight across.


----------



## mIps (Oct 10, 2012)

While I would consider it slightly more than a job site saw, I have a Ridgid R4512 for my only TS and it works well. I like the riving knife and blade covers, as well as the on-board storage fro all the tools and accessories that come with it. The expandable table is also nice to have when needed.
I dislike that the body of the saw is plastic but, really, for a mostly portable saw I didn't really expect much else.


----------



## rf58 (Aug 11, 2009)

Riobi the big disappointment with it was the cross cut fence and the track grove is sloppy and a weird configuration made it hard to make a cross cut sled but i do like if for fast 45z


----------



## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

> While I would consider it slightly more than a job site saw, I have a Ridgid R4512 for my only TS and it works well. I like the riving knife and blade covers, as well as the on-board storage fro all the tools and accessories that come with it. The expandable table is also nice to have when needed.
> I dislike that the body of the saw is plastic but, really, for a mostly portable saw I didn t really expect much else.
> 
> - mIps


The Ridgid 4512 is a hybrid saw. Metal case and legs, cast iron top with steel wings. It weighs over 300lbs. Other than having a good set of retractable wheels, there is not much portable about it. Are you sure you have the model number correct?


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> While I would consider it slightly more than a job site saw, I have a Ridgid R4512 for my only TS and it works well. I like the riving knife and blade covers, as well as the on-board storage fro all the tools and accessories that come with it. The expandable table is also nice to have when needed.
> I dislike that the body of the saw is plastic but, really, for a mostly portable saw I didn t really expect much else.
> 
> - mIps
> ...


...sounds more like the R4510….


----------



## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

I have to admit the portable Saw Stop is interesting…


----------



## BanjoBen (Dec 8, 2015)

I've had the SawStop Jobsite saw for a couple months now. It is my first table saw, however, so I'm not sure I can offer much help in terms of comparison. However, I can saw that I've found it to be a pleasure to use overall.

The fence is incredibly convenient, easy to adjust, and accurate. The one turn blade elevation is a pleasure to use. I've used it to cut thick hardwoods, including 8/4 purple heart.

That said, I have run into a few issues:

1) The saw will cut fairly thick hardwoods, but I've had issues with some blade deflection that result in rough saw marks on the sides of the cut. I still need to get on the support line with SawStop to see if there is anything I can do to address the issue, but I haven't done it yet.
2) The one turn blade elevation is super convenient. The only issue is that if you really want to be dead-on precise with the elevation (say, within a few thousandths), you'll be frustrated. But I've been able to get it adjusted as accurately as I've needed it with very little issue. 
3) I had one false brake activation. It occurred at startup, before the blade had even spun up to speed (the good news is that it didn't damage the blade, because of this). I sent the cartridge off to SawStop to be analyzed. They got back with me and said that they couldn't explain the activation, but they sent me a new cartridge and said to let them know if it happened again. So far, it hasn't. 
4) The included miter gauge isn't great, but it's ok.

So far, I've been able to work around the issues I mentioned above. Overall, I've been very happy with the saw. Yes, it's expensive for what it is, but the peace of mind that comes from the extra safety factor made it worth it for me. The funny thing is, I didn't even have to work to convince my wife that it was a good idea, because when she saw the hot dog demo video, she was sold immediately.


----------



## 716 (Nov 22, 2015)

I have some discontinued Ace Hardware benchtop. It was very accurate out of the box all the blade alignment/fence alignment are in the range of a couple thousands. As long as I do not mind loud noise,a lot of dust in a mile radius and cut only small stock it is OK. However trying to feed it a long board is akin to fighting with a crocodile. Scary and inaccurate due to the short fence.


----------



## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

Lots of great feedback here as usual.

I am still using my 1996 Craftsman 113. Saw.

Can't seem to pull the trigger on a new saw just yet.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Primary Bosch 4100 contractor saw user here as well. It does not function as a cabinet saw nor a hybrid saw, as it should not. It has no blade stabilizer, you can purchase additional outfeed and left side supports, it was not designed with dust collection as a main selling point, 25" ripping capacity, non cast iron top, built-in riving knife, blade guard and anti-kickback pawls, all which install within seconds and require no tools, portable with great handle positioning, can purchase the gravity stand, the fence is neither horrible or great. 
Yes, it's my main table saw. I will use it as such til funds come in for a true cabinet saw which I am slowly in need of (48" rip capacity, 1.5 or 3HP motor, bieseymeyer fence, 220v). 
Yes, I feel limited with the smaller rip capacity and smaller table real estate but I knew what I was getting myself into when purchased so it's acceptable.
Workarounds: I built a 4' outfeed table. I use a Grizzly Track Saw to break down larger panels, I bought the left outrigger support.
Miter Gauge: Incra HD 1000


----------



## JHAstrello (Sep 3, 2014)

I've been building out my shop piece by piece this year trying to wrap up my 'regular employment' and retire. That happens tomorrow! Now about the saw(s). Very interesting responses for certain. I really wanted a top line SawStop Cabinet saw. Last fall, when starting on my build, we decided that the only Table Saw we were going to invest in, had to be a SawStop - safety reasons. After that, I really liked the quality, feedback and design features that have been incorporated into their entire product line.

However, with my income level about to drop, we went with the Jobsite saw. It arrived this past week, and it is now up and running. I really cannot give a review as yet, for I've made a total of 1 cut at this time.

I spent a good deal of time checking setup, angles, etc and generally getting used to all the controls. My first reaction was - saw came ready to go out of the box. The only thing so far that I'm unhappy with, is the very cheap and very simple miter gauge. Don't know that I'll ever use it.

Also, I'm not at all certain that I like the design/implementation of the miter tracks. I need to look into that more.

So, my biggest reason for getting the SawStop Jobsite saw is price; followed closely by space considerations. While I have a good sized shop, it's getting filled up. I really liked that when not using the saw for periods of time, I can easily fold it up on the mobile cart - and move it out of the way. I'm also a dedicated woodturner, so there will be periods of time when it will sit idle.

Until I get more actual time with the saw, that's the best I can offer at the moment. Any comments on the miter slot design and what miter gauges I can use, would be appreciated.


----------



## CB_Cohick (Dec 22, 2014)

I have the DeWalt 7491 as my only table saw due to space limitations. Yes, I do think I am limited versus what I could do with a nice cabinet saw. But, I make the most of the space I have. The DeWalt folds up to take up little space. It has a nice fence system. I can still cut a sheet of plywood on it if I do some planning and use outfeed rollers. Paxorion had a good review of the limitations above, and I agree with what was said. I will have to either move, or build a building to get the shop space I want for a cabinet saw. So, for now my jobsite saw will have to keep on keepin' on.


----------



## nerdbot (Sep 3, 2014)

I have the DW744 which is the older model of the current line of Dewalt jobsite saws. It was my first saw, when I first started woodworking, so price and space were the main priority. I've worked primarily with 8/4 stock and it's been pretty good, but I have nothing else to compare it to. Over the last couple years, I've added things to improve cut quality - better blades, Incra miter gauge, Grip-tite magnetic featherboards, Sharkguard for over the table dust extraction, and I made a mobile base for the saw once I committed to dedicated shop space in my garage. As I get more experience (and more "add-ons"), my cuts are better and better right off the saw (as opposed to having to clean up the cut afterwards).

My only complaint is the capacity, in all regards (infeed, outfeed, rip). I found myself making more cabinet like projects than I expected, and 25" always just seems to be just a tad short of what I need. A new saw upgrade is probably a year or so away, but I do plan on using the info on vsctools.com to make a bigger fence and I'll add more infeed and outfeed support to the table while I'm at it.


----------



## rubber_ducky (Dec 30, 2015)

I joined the forum about 5 minutes ago just to add my 2 pennies as I'm in the process of "upgrading" my jobsite saw for a delta contractor model. I bought my dewalt dw745 about a year ago (same post-holiday special that HD is running now). I chose it over the other jobsite models due to the great price ($225) and a superior fence.

The reason that I'm upgrading (just closed a CL deal today) is mainly due to the inability to put a dado blade on the dewalt. The other advantages already mentioned here helped as well.

I believe that you can run a dado on the Bosch unit. Or you may not care about it because you have some other means of doing it (router, etc).

Regardless, it is a limitation of some jobsite models.


----------



## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

.


----------



## MikeUT (Sep 5, 2014)

I have a Porter Cable job site saw and it has been a good little saw for me. I got it when I first moved in to a house after college and got a garage in which I could have a shop. I got it because I needed portability and I needed to spread my money across a lot of tools. I have limited experience with cabinet saws (shop class in high school) but I have been able to do pretty much whatever I've needed to do. My biggest complaints are size and dust collection. The table size makes big pieces inconvenient. Also, the size/power of the motor can get bogged down when cutting maple or other hard woods. I hook up dust collection when I use the saw and there is still a lot of sawdust in the air an on the floor after cuts. I'll get a cabinet saw someday, hopefully that day will be sooner rather than later but that is more for the kid in me that wants bigger and better toys rather than necessity.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Lots of folks successfully use portable saws as their primary saws. They cut wood efficiently with reasonable accuracy. When you need portability and/or are severely space constrained, they're really the only option in a TS.

With that said, many folks gravitate to portables because of price…IMO that's not the best choice. When price is driving the purchase, it's better to look for a good full size used saw if the right deal comes along. Portables have their place, but it's worth noting that full size saws have the lion's share of advantages…more table space in front of the blade is a huge advantage. Belt drive induction motors, more mass and stability, more torque, quieter operation, lower vibration, better long term reliability, easier repair, standard miter slots and table sizes allow easy upgrades and modifications, more fence and accessory options, etc. Portability and size are pretty much the only significant advantages over a decent full size saw….


----------



## CB_Cohick (Dec 22, 2014)

> The reason that I m upgrading (just closed a CL deal today) is mainly due to the inability to put a dado blade on the dewalt.
> 
> - rubber_ducky


That must be a limitation of that model. I can and do run a dado stack on the 7491.


----------



## dfletcher (Jan 14, 2010)

I use a Hitachi portable TS. It has it's own stand and wheels to make moving easier. Hitachi also has a pole coming out of the back, at an angle to stop tipover, which I haven't seen on other saws.

It will take a dado blade and the fence is rather nice. I always check the blade to fence dimensions with my tape, as I have always been in this habit.

I haven't found anything that I use that bogs it down, but I have had to make an addition to sit next to it for when I rip plywood sheets.


----------



## DMC1903 (Jan 11, 2012)

Fully agree with OSU55, The Bosch is a great saw for small shops with limited space. 
The miter slots are very inconsistent due to the casting process, having a light weight metal top would be nice. 
Overall, I would purchase another Bosch 4100 or the new Bosch Flesh sensing cartridge system


----------



## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

I don't use my dewalt job site saw in my shop much but I do use it 3-5 days a week on the job site. For those that use one in the shop I'd like to recommend Rousseau tables and fences. Great product that brings contractor type luxuries to your job site saw.










Paul


----------



## Brodan (Nov 1, 2014)

I use a PC with 10" blade that I purchased from Lowes. With the cross cut sled I made for it I have been able to do some decent work. Without much experience I'm not knowledgeable about cabinet saws but I would think they would be more precise. I end up "pecking away" to cut dados as I don't know how a dado stack would work on this saw. As far as accuracy I always use a machinist square to re square the blade after cutting angles. On a cabinet saw that might not be as necessary? So although the thought of owning a cabinet saw is attractive and I'm sure it would speed things up, I have been able to get by with what I have.


----------



## Squatcher (Dec 31, 2015)

I use a Ridgid job site saw because I need the portability. Whenever I want to work on something, I have to drag all my tools (minus bandsaw) outside to the back patio. It sucks… But on the flipside, I'd rather have my job site saw than no saw at all. It's not the most accurate thing and I'm constantly trying to tinker to get it to become more accurate.

With that being said, I don't do fine joinery that will be scrutinized under a magnifying glass. One day I will, but right now, cost and storage space prohibit.

With all my complaining, I'm satisfied with my TS.


----------



## marsbar (May 27, 2009)

John from E. Texas…...do you have anything further to add on your sawstop vs a full size TS? I'm in a similar situation and am ready to choose between a Sawstop PCS or a Jobsite saw. I previously owned (but had to sell) a PCS. I felt the PCS was way more saw than I needed for hobby furniture building. Now that I'm in a one car garage woodshop, a smaller footprint of a Jobsite saw makes a lot of sense. Very interested in your experience.

Thanks….Mark


----------



## Karamba (Nov 2, 2015)

I started ripping 10' hard maple on my bench saw, had to stop 10" into the cut, go inside the house and order a full size stationary table saw. That's how my bench saw limited me.


----------



## Justinmnhall (Jan 16, 2016)

I have used mainly 3 jobs saws. First the cheapest craftsman portable 100$ it's OK for ripping small things trim and maybe 1/2 ply smaller pc not 4×8. Trips on the bigger stuff.
The I used ryobi portable rts31. Love the larger work area. After a bit of work though the guide became less accurate and the saw bucked back on thin 4×8 ply (1/4) but the 3/4 ply did decent 
Now I have the ridgid r4513. I have fallen trees planed down the wood and built cabnets using this saw to cut the wood. It has held up well. No real accuracy issues. other than small infeed no complaints. I do setup and saw horse table for the outfeed. Plus lifetime warranty. You get what you pay for but I am extreamly satisfied with the ridgid saw. The portability of it is great!


----------



## TheWoodRaccoon (Nov 9, 2015)

Doesanybody have any experience with the new Delta 6000 series prtable table saw?


----------



## MattLinPA (Oct 18, 2015)

> John from E. Texas…...do you have anything further to add on your sawstop vs a full size TS? I m in a similar situation and am ready to choose between a Sawstop PCS or a Jobsite saw. I previously owned (but had to sell) a PCS. I felt the PCS was way more saw than I needed for hobby furniture building. Now that I m in a one car garage woodshop, a smaller footprint of a Jobsite saw makes a lot of sense. Very interested in your experience.
> 
> Thanks….Mark
> 
> - marsbar


Hey Mark - I went the other way. I purchased a Ridgid 4510 in March of 2015, in Oct of 2015, it died ripping 12/4 poplar (with a 24T thin kerf rip blade and slow feed rate). I went out and bought a SawStop PCS175 with the 36" T Rail. The comparison that I've made about the two, is it's akin to driving a 2013 Lamborghini Gallardo and a mid 90's 4 cylinder Jeep wrangler up a steep mountain. One begs, and try's to get you to go faster while stopping and turning on a dime, the other struggles to accomplish the simple task of going forward. The SS PCS is an outstanding saw, and I think you'll be disappointed going to a portable TS from the PCS; I'm also in the hobby furniture demographic. If I ever get the Ridgid back from service/repair, it'll be forsale if you're interested, I'll even through in a 6" dado and dado insert.

Edit: I'll add - my footprint between the portable and the PCS w/ 36" was about 3ish sq/ft more. The mobile cart actually consumed a good bit of space beyond the saw itself, granted I can not fold up and move the PCS.


----------



## blint (6 mo ago)

An old thread, but a perennial topic…

What is the typical blade runout on a jobsite saw when it's determined that the blade itself is not the culprit but the arbor? I haven't seen that issue addressed, not even in the articles focusing on choosing the best jobsite saw for woodworking, where the author talks about the trade-offs and shortcomings of these saws when used for joinery. How precise can these saws be made if the owner is willing to take sandpaper and a grindstone to them? Can they attain less than .005 of an inch wobble on the blade?


----------



## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

In the early years of my woodworking hobby, I had access to a Delta cabinet saw and built some ambitious pieces of furniture and home modifications. Now, 70 years later, I have a Dewalt (DWE 7490) that I use mostly to prepare carving blanks. Here I have used it to taper the back edges of a basswood piece for a relief:

\\









This is the completed front side:


----------

