# LF: Finger Joint Jig for Router Table



## Zuki (Mar 28, 2007)

I want to make a couple of small boxes with finger joints in the corners. I seen two guys on the WoodWorking Channel use a jig for their router to make finger joints and it looked rather neat.

Anyone have plans for one or know where I can find plans?


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

I did a search on Lumberjocks domain, several jigs posted by VTWoody, Fred, others. Essentially it's a box joint with thin fingers. The table saw will work better for thin fingers, but 1/4˝ aren't hard on the router table. I'm spoiled, and do all my joints with an Incra jig.


----------



## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

My Porter-Cable dovetail jig has a finger joint plate with it. I haven't used it but….........


----------



## mot (May 8, 2007)

Box joint jig plans number in the dozens. It's a really easy jig to make…I googled it and came up with http://sawdustmaking.com/Box%20Joint/boxjointjig.html

This is for the tablesaw, but the router concept is exactly the same.

I use a right angle sled that rides along my router table fence. If you have a channel for a mitre gauge in your table, the above link will work with tablesaw, or router table with just a few nit picky fit things that will have to be tailor made to your setup.

I just read Douglas' reply and that hits it on the head too.

Cheers!


----------



## Zuki (Mar 28, 2007)

I will take a look.

Tks


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

here's one

Here's one for a router table:

There are quite a few if you want to google .
Bob


----------



## Duckarrowtypes (Sep 17, 2007)

If you have a routing table then I suggest looking at these. http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

I ordered the set of three because they're very precise and ridiculously easy to set up.


----------



## bbrooks (Jan 3, 2007)

I have those same jigs. The one problem I have found is getting consistent cuts for the joints. I do not know if it is a dull bit or too deep of a cut or what, but when sliding the piece over the router bit, it will tend to grab a little. This causes either the depth to vary a small amount, or the width. It is a small amount, but noticeable when I put the two sides together. I was using oak, and had a block behind to push them through. Perhaps it is just more practice needed, but I would like to get better results.


----------



## niki (Mar 26, 2007)

I'm sure that you are not going to build one like this but…you can have a look…
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/609

Regards
niki


----------



## Duckarrowtypes (Sep 17, 2007)

Hey Niki that's a pretty cool jig you've got there. Bill: I have the same problem with the OP jigs but I too am very new to them. You've GOT to use a push block I've discovered and it really helps if you're NOT an idiot (like me) and get a perfectly square push block.


----------



## Zuki (Mar 28, 2007)

MOT . . . I have yet to use my dato blade. Might be the time to give my router a rest as we had a little disagreement earlier today.

Bob #2 . . . that one from Oak Park is the one that I seen in action on the WW Channel.

Niki . . . like most, Im always amazed with the jigs you develop.


----------



## brad (Sep 17, 2007)

I use Bob's suggested method. So simple and very repeatable. If you follow the link you can see that the jig can be purchased or if you study the theory of making the join the jig can easily be shop made. They can have all their dado blades and fancy jigs…this one works everytime.

Good luck.

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

I can now respectfully submit this project to add to the choices for jigs.

I switched to this set up so that I would not have to "key up" several whole boards to have a set of 1/4,5/16",3/8" 1/2" and 5/8" jigs hanging on the wall.
I can also do a style of dovetails with this as well.

Bob


----------

