# Problem Centering Hinge Screws



## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

I seem to be having a lot of problems lately centering the pilot holes for hinge screws for my boxes. The hinges are small (3/4" x 1") and use #2 brass screws and even a small deviance from the actual center can throw the alignment of the box top off.

I don't know whether my eyes are getting old like the rest of my body or what, but…..

I cut nice, precise mortises for the hinges on the router table using Doug Stowe's "flipping story stick" method. Then comes the problem of centering the holes for the screws. I use a very sharp awl but apparently not very well! For larger screws, I use the self-centering bits (bix bits) but they don't make one for #2 screws.

Am I the only one who has this problem? Do any of you have any suggestions? It's quite frustrating to repeatedly drill and fill these tiny little holes!!!

Thanks,

Jim


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

Very small hinges tends to move on you try a little bit of double face tape to hold them in place so you can punch a hole for your screws.


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## closetguy (Sep 29, 2007)

I use to have the same problem and finally broke down and bought a set of three bit centering bits from Rockler. It solved all my problems with centering the pilot hole.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I find that the self-centering bits when used slowly do a great job solving that problem.


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## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

The smallest vix bit that I have found is 5/64" which is just a bit large for a #2 screw. Too bad!

Jim


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## FirehouseWoodworking (Jun 9, 2009)

My first choice is a vix bit. If the bit is too large, then I'll switch to a spring-loaded self-centering punch. Just a small tap of the hammer will mark the center. Then a drill bit of appropriate size.

As you've probably already discovered, the darker grain markings (I can never remember if they are the summer or winter growth rings) tend to be harder than the adjoining light (and softer) wood. The center punch is usually enough to keep the drill bit from wandering.

Good luck.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

+1 on Dave's method.


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## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

I hate hinges. The very problem you're having is why very few of my boxes have hinges anymore. The little ones are really difficult to drill accurately and it's complicated by the multiple prescriptions in my glasses.


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## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

I don't often do projects that use hardware as small as what you are using…but…I developed a little trick that works well for what I do build. I secure the hinges in the pre-cut hinge mortise using a touch of hot melt. I then center punch and drill the holes for the screws..and then.. install the screws.

If I don't heavy hand it, the hot melt secures the hinge in the desired location until the screws are in place.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I just gave up on metal hinges and now make my own wooden ones. I have never been able to install small hinges without a lot of problems. I know, my skills are lacking.


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## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

Has anyone ever tried an appropriately sized transfer punch to create a center dimple? Just wondering if it would be worthwhile investing in a set.

Jim


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

I find these gimlets helpful. 
Sometimes power tools make it more difficult. <g>








This one is handy too.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32201&cat=1,43456

Bob


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## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

I had seen the Hinge Center Punch previously. I wrote to Lee Valley about it and they responded that it wouldn't work in such a small hole. Drats!!! That would have been ideal.

Jim


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

You could make one Jim. It just a pin with a spring on it.
Try the workings from an old ball point pen.

Bob


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

that punch set might work i have one, i think? i also have the letter set too but i never used it the other puch set i use sometimes. What i do for hinges is eye it to the middle with a awl then i have a little hand drill that opperates by using your index finger and thumb to make it work and this is the best thing that works for me, sometimes. Ill try the punch set and let u know if u want?


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## Dudley (Jun 22, 2009)

I use a pin drill as what bigike is describing. It will tighten on a 1/16" drill.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I have two Vix bits and a spring loaded centering punch. Before I got them, hinge screws were a major PITA. Now, they're cake! - lol

If you're using brass screws, I recommend driving a steel screw first, then run in the brass….......gently.


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## webwood (Jul 2, 2009)

i tape or glue my hinges in place - find center with a small nail - tap it and use a brad point bit


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

If the screws I'm using are smaller in diameter than my vix bits, I'll still use them, but to make a hole only 1/16" or shallower. Then you can use that perfectly centered hole to finish with your correct diameter pilot bit.


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## AGJFritz (Feb 14, 2012)

Even though this is an old thread, it was #2 on Google when I was looking this up, so I figure I'd share a tip that helped me. When I'm trying it, and I don't have a VIX bit or other self-centering bit that'll work, I'll use double stick tape to hold the hinge in place, then I'll mark the hole. To mark the hole, I take a screw like the one that I'll be installing, clip the shank off, so I have just the head with a sharp little nub, then run that in the hinge. It self centers and makes a nice little dimple where you can start a drill bit. It's not fancy, but it sure helps.

Cheers!

-Fritzy


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I've never had good luck with the spring loaded center punch. The punch is a sloppy fit inside the barrel, so it doesn't center well. The punch tends to follow the grain of the wood. I've never tried the vix bits.


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## MoPower (Feb 6, 2009)

Check out your local hobby shop. Model airplane builders have been using a hand held self centering drill for years. The one I use is made by Great Planes. TowerHobbies.com


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## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

I have had this same issue, and I found a super simple solution too that works like a dream.

First, get yourself a center drill that will drill the proper size hole, now measure the shank of the bit, which is larger than the tip size and doesn't cut.

Now make yourself a template to fit perfectly in the hinge mortise and position the holes as needed and drill the holes for the shank of the bit into the template.

Now you can simply hold the template in place and drill, or use double sided tape to hold it in place.

I hve several types of template for different hinges, all made from good hardwood, and they all work and hold up well. They also act as a depth stop if you adjust the bit in the chuck properly.

Good Luck


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Kenny: Thanks for the tip. I'm a big fan of templates, but didn't think to make one for hinges.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

I have a bit different approach.
Since the hinges aren't usually counter sunk, I use a regular bit that will do that for me after attaching the hinge with double stick tape. Once the hinge is countersunk, there is a divot in the wood that is centered and my small bits work well for piloting the hole.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Both great ideas from MrRon and Dallas.


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

I do what poopiekat does and I use the oversized vix bits to make a very shallow centered hole (more like an indentation really), but after that I just screw the screws in. With screws that small I don't feel the need to make pilot holes.


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