# Is mitering the edge on column wraps a bad idea?



## Arkitect96 (Jul 23, 2014)

Hello all,

I was asked to do some column wraps for a barndominium type residence that has 4" steel porch columns all the way around the house. I'm more of a furniture guy and want to make sure I do it right. They want 2×10 rough cedar to wrap the steel columns. My question is, would mitering the edges of the 4 sides of the column wrap be a bad idea as opposed to a butt joint? If mitered, I would glue and domino the mitered edges together. Anyone have experience with this? I'm worried that the miters would open up over time. In your opinion(s), what would be the best way to go about it? Would titebond 3 glue be suffiecient outside? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Mike


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## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

I did something similar with fir 2×8's. I used a mitrelock bit, in no small part, because I had one. It's been 4 winters in Ottawa and they are still together. I did use Titebond 3. We've glued up exterior columns using poly glue like Gorilla and the Titebond product and they all seem fine, too.
I would think that miters with dominos would work well. You have a lot of glue surface and the dominos would ensure good alignment.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I would use butt joints. Easier to get right imo.

I'd probably use biscuits for alignment. Plastic 
resin glue will outperform PVA outdoors I think.

If you have to put them together around the 
posts on site you might consider skipping the glue
and clamps and using nails or RTA hardware.
I'd hate to be working on site waiting for glue
to dry so I could use the clamps again.


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I installed some columns on my front porch that were premade and as I recall they were pre-mitered with the miterlock. A good bead of Titebond III in the joints and some discretely placed screws (that were filled in and sanded) has kept them tight for 8+ years.


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## Arkitect96 (Jul 23, 2014)

Thanks guys. I've used Gorilla glue before and it can be a hassle with the foaming. Especially with the rough cedar boards that I can't sand the squeeze out off afterward.

Loren - I planned on cutting and assembling everything in the shop or at least gluing up 2 sides and using the domino to have everything pre-mortised so I can quickly put it together on site and clamp. I like to do as much work as possible in the shop where I can control everything. Also, you were probably talking about nailing the butt joints but I wouldn't feel comfortable not gluing or not using loose tenons for the mitered joint.

Earl & Grant - I don't have a miterlock bit but was hoping the glue and enough dominos would be sufficient to keep the miters from pulling apart. I probably worry to much about this stuff. I just don't want the column wraps to look like crap in a couple of years.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

Mikey - I often see this issue on the Home Builder TV shows.
it comes down to a few things that would determine the route of fabrication.
1. price
2. customer's choice
3. aesthetic value for the building
4. your skill set, tools and space available in your shop

some people (my father, for example) hated to see end grain and refused to
just overlap butt joints in ceiling beams and support wraps.
his approach was to make the wrap look like a natural solid wood post or beam.
his tort was: anybody can nail boards together to make a box.
but, only the talented craftsman can make it look like a hewn beam with no noticeable seams or joints.
looking forward to seeing photos of your project.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

Here is my 2 cents worth: I don't like using mitered joints outdoors. Even if they don't open up due to wood movement (and they almost always do), the thin edges of the miter will weather quickly and split, chip, etc. If these edges are located where someone will/can brush against it, splinters and clothing snags are likely. Maybe gluing will prevent this. Maybe. I prefer butt joints. Use glue and biscuits for alignment if you prefer. I would fasten with SS nails or screws. Galvanized will cause dark streaks on the cedar very quickly.

One other thing: If you are going to stain, paint, or otherwise finish the cedar, put the same number of coats on the inside prior to assembly. This will help keep the wood from cupping over time. I learned this the hard way with my cedar lap siding.


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## Arkitect96 (Jul 23, 2014)

Thanks John and Bilyo. I appreciate the responses.

I'm about to get started on them and right now I'm leaning toward the mitered edge. No visible seams are my preference. I'll try to post some pics of the process and finished product. Thanks again guys.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

If you go with mitered joints, I'd use a hefty spline to hold it together. It's easy to do on a jobsite table saw and is very structural. I used this method on my large dining table legs to get quartersawn on all four sides and ten years later it still looks great.


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## MikeH007 (Aug 27, 2020)

Exact project I'm doing on my porch column lowers. Need your expert input. If using either butt joint or edge miter, is used should pieces be installed end grain up with open grain ends sealed with epoxy? What is the
miter cutting process on table saw for making the cuts to the precise as possible dimensions? What is domino method? I'm a bit novice but pretty good learner and good manual skills.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

Mike - welcome to the forum.
how tall are the columns and how tall would the wraps be ??

here are some wrap options that I have used in the past, depending on the skill level of the carpenter.










.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Here's how I wrapped some lolly columns in my house. The sides are fluted (jocklers fluting jig, works pretty good). And the inside corners of each side are touching. I then used a roundover bit to make a rounded corner and cut it off the board to insert into the corner. (did that explanation make sense?). Anyway, i saw this design in my dentists office and loved it.









As you can see, I have a fluted styled home. All the woodwork, the lamp pedastel is a version of the post. Even the small fluting you see on the small table.


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