# Deft Danish Oil tacky feel after 2nd coat



## DonOtt (Jul 10, 2009)

A client ordered two Walnut isolation tables for his stereo amps (end grain cutting boards) and wanted a glossy finish to them. I had originally put a coat of Varathane on the bottom of one of the boards but didn't like the look so I applied Deft Danish Oil to the rest of that board and to the second board.

After waiting 24 hours, I lightly sanded and applied a second coat of Danish Oil. This morning, I did the touch test and it feels very tacky to the touch.

Will this fix itself and dry properly after a 24 hour period or will it need to be sanded off?

I intent to use a Wipe on Poly for the final glossy finish but need the oil to set up first.

Cheers….Don


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I would wait as much as a few days before doing anything drastic.

You will hear differing opinions on this, but personally I never use more than one application of Danish oil if I intend to come back with a topcoat. If you do, it can take a long time to cure, as you are experiencing.


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## DonOtt (Jul 10, 2009)

Thanks Charlie….


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Patience grasshopper

+1 for Charlie


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## DonOtt (Jul 10, 2009)

Patience…grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

I tend to let Danish oil sit for 4-5 days before i poly over the top. Stupid tacky finishes.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

I've found with Deft Danish oil that it finicky to use. My "typical" DO use is to flood the surface, wait 10 minutes and then wipe off the excess; I found with the Deft brand that this leads to the problem you are experiencing; long drying times. It works better with a couple of very thin coats, like you'd do if you're applying wipe on poly. I did a comparison of DO brands here:
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2895

You can try wiping the surface of the finish with mineral spirits, that sometimes is enough to remove the tackiness. Otherwise if it doesn't dry after a few days I'd sand it down and try again.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

I've had that happen if I apply too heavy of a coat of oil, or I don't wipe off the 2nd application in time.

Danish oil seems to really be strict about the 1st application, wait 30 minutes, 2nd application, wait 15 minutes, wipe off all the remaining oil procedure. I fixed it by wiping with DNA and letting it dry for 24 hours before redoing the coat.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Strip it and do it right by using a waterborne poly.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I applied shellac Immediately after applying BLO just to see what would occur. I had a dry finish in under 10 minutes. I've done the same over freshly applied Min Wax stains. Wouldn't have believed it if someone told me but it works for me.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Did you wipe off the excess when you put on the coats? If you leave too much on the surface you will end up with a gummy, sticky layer. The good new is that if you do need to sand it off it'll be pretty easy. You could also try wiping it up with mineral spirits to see if that helps.

It will also cure faster in a warmer environment. Just do what I did and put a heater directly on the wood. It caused the finish to bleed out of the pores.


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## DonOtt (Jul 10, 2009)

For the second coat, I did wipe off any excess that was sitting on the boards. I checked them before coming to work today and they are much better than they were yesterday.

I will fine-sand them next, perhaps tomorrow to get the finish nice and smooth and apply ***************.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I applied shellac Immediately after applying BLO just to see what would occur. I had a dry finish in under 10 minutes. I've done the same over freshly applied Min Wax stains. Wouldn't have believed it if someone told me but it works for me.

I tried this on some turning pieces and it works very well and leaves a nice satin, almost hand rubbed, finish.

Don, last time I used Watco on a tabletop it took days to dry; probably why I still have most of a can left.


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## DonOtt (Jul 10, 2009)

Well, as was suggested to me, I waited it out and sanded the Danish Oil last night using 320 grit. I wiped both boards down with Mineral Spirits and will apply the first coat of gloss *************** tonight.

I've never worked with shellac and not sure I want to start on a project that has been a bit of a PITA thus far.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Rick M- Thanks for the back up. I don't think anyone believed me!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

gf, both of these were oil immediately followed by shellac

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/77933

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/77509


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

OK- Now you and I know the answer!


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## DonOtt (Jul 10, 2009)

Two coats of Danish Oil and four coats of gloss ***************…..


















I may investigate the shellac route I think.

Thanks all….


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

The shellac thing, although I've never done it, sort of makes sense. Because of its composition, shellac tends not to react to what it is applied to… it just hardens back to its natural state.


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## Zaphod1975 (Oct 7, 2013)

Dear Lumberjocks,

I am refinishing a 1 1/2" cutting board workshop bench. It has a lifetime of 'children' character (sawing with no protection beneath, drilling with no protection beneath, painting, etc., etc., etc.) I love it and the memories. I have sanded several times with 60 and 120 and had a pretty smooth surface (tung oil had been applied previously for shine and cleaning).

I have applied three (3) coats of Danish Oil and most of it appears shiny (my desire), with weeks of drying (seriously) and it is still sticky. I tried rubbing with mineral spirits and sanding to get back to the original top but it is slow going. Help!!! I just want a hard durable work surface.

Thank-you


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Is the Danish Oil old? I have an old can and had the same problem with it.


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## Zaphod1975 (Oct 7, 2013)

Hi Rick,

I can't say for sure. It was on the "reduced for quick sale" rack at Lowe's, however I can' imagine it being like years old. It looks like I have to bite the bullet and sand the surface down again (a massive project). I had used Tung Oil in the past (before this project) but am not sure if you can still get this. What do you think about Linseed Oil? This is a working surface so I don't think I what to use urethane or it this an option?


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm a little confused by your statement that you don't want to use a urethane because it is a working surface. If you are looking to protect the surface from stains, moisture, etc., polyurethane is going to do a much better job than an oil finish like Danish oil or boiled linseed oil. I am a big fan of oil finishes for their appearance, but they don't generally offer a lot of protection.


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## Zaphod1975 (Oct 7, 2013)

I see what you're saying. The urethane would be a hard, durable surface. This is the bench where I may be working on a lawnmower one day and a vacuum cleaner the next. There is scratch potential with urethane so I was thinking of an oil (like linseed) just for appearance as you say; not really for protection. Thanks for your help.


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