# Shopping for a new table saw



## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

I am going to buy a new table saw in the next month. My budget is $4K or less. I have been using a 1980's Jet CTAS 3hp, with a 52 inch Biesemeyer fence and Excallibur overarm guard. for about the last 8 years and it is still a very good saw. But eventually it will need bearing, lacks a riving knife, etc. I am looking for a more precise saw with good dust collection. What I am considering are the PM, Jet, SawStop, Grizzly, Baileigh Unisaw saws in the 3hp class. I looked at slider type saws, but do not feel they are for me. Considerations are safety, precision, price and warranty.

My top choices are the PM, Unisaw, SawStop, and Jet. The SawStop IMO has the lead in safety. (I am not interested in the politics, only the technical information). However the saw only has a two year warranty, with one year on the fence. Reviews on this saw is very high, however I have seen a couple of reviews where the fence is questionable. The PM, Unisaw, and Jet all have 5 year warranties (I believe). Concerns with the Unisaw are part availability and it is higher in price than the others. PM has been considered the Gold standard, but is that based on saws made long ago? What does the PM offer that the Jet does not and how good is the fence system? Jet is less expensive, how does it compare to the PM? Is the Jet fence as good as the PM? I could actually buy the PM 5hp for about the same price as the SawStop.

Baileigh and Grizzly saws only have a one year warranty. The price is much more attractive. Is there that much difference in construction/ quality?

Dust collection is important to me. Also are the blade guards on the PM, Jet and Unisaw useful or are woodworkers still removing them because they are a PIA? The ease of use for bevel and fence are also important to me.

Thanks for your comments


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

That's a hefty budget, and you can get a lot for that. I had a Griz 3hp 1023slx for 9+ years and never failed me and it got moved across country and back so it was a great deal at about 1500$. I sold that and am waiting on my SS 5hp ICS. Went with more beef, quality, and safety. I'll keep my opinion short and leave it at that. I had no complaints with the Griz just wanted more.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Didn't realize the SS warranty was so short. If you're looking for something that will last a long time, choose something with the least that can fail. The gold standard reference is certainly not based on what's for sale today. The Unisaw is expensive, but has the controls on the front which in and of itself some may consider a safety feature, not to mention the convenience. If I had to buy a new saw, it would be in the 5hp class, either a Unisaw or Powermatic.


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## Minorhero (Apr 8, 2011)

At 4k you have passed the maximum performance budget and now you are talking about minor differences in fit and finish. To me there is no question you should be going for the sawstop. I hate the company for their politics, but that doesn't change the fact that they make a solid saw and have the only blade brake on the market. To not buy it over concerns about the fence does not make sense. You can buy a bessy clone for under 300 and have a rock solid fence if the sawstop fence ever gives out.


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

Despite all the pros and cons you may have read here, if you have the cash, the SS is a no brainer. Now I'm going to duck down from the SS detractors. LOL!


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

+1 for saw stop.


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## mikeevens45 (Jan 31, 2014)

unisaw


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I can't tell you which is definitely the best saw for you, but I can tell you that PM and Jet are associated companies, with PM being marketed as their premier line….AFAIK the Jet Xacta II and PM Accufence are the same fence…basically the same as the HTC fence. The PM2000 has a larger table than most (30" deep vs 27").

I can also tell you that Saw Stop is the only alternative that offers their unique braking system….there is some premium for it, but you do get a very nice saw independent of the safety brake.

Regarding warranties…. reliability studies tell us that most devices that are going to fail before the end of their expected service lives, will do so shortly after being placed into service….it's known as an "infant mortality rate" in quality/reliability circles. Reliability curves of service life of any device show huge increases of failure in the early going, then fall to much lower levels for the normal service life of a given device, until finally they ramp up toward the tail end of that anticipated service life (table saws have very long expected service lives, compared to say most modern electronics). Generally an initial short warranty will cover the vast majority of common issues that arise. It's the very reason that extended warranties are so profitable to those who offer them. Warranty duration is one contributor to the lower price of tools from Grizzly….lack of dealer mark up is another, and may be the more significant contributor of the two. Longer warranties have some appeal to certain people, as does dealer support, and they're willing to pay for it, which is one of the allures of brands like PM and Jet. Longer warranties and dealer support are paid for in advance, whether they're actually utilized or not. While there is some risk that a shorter warranty could leave you footing the bill on a repair, the odds are in your favor that you won't need to perform anything more than routine maintenance. For me, warranty is a minor consideration in the equation, and focusing on other key parameters are more important, but YMMV.

At the top end of your budget, I'd be hardpressed to pass up the safety technology of the SS. I just don't see much of an advantage over other $3000-$4000 saws without the safety device. If you wanted a really good saw without spending that much, I'd either have your current Jet maintained back to original, or would look to something like the Grizzly G1023RL series or G0690 (same saw as one of the Laguna and Baliegh saws).


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## hotncold (Mar 4, 2014)

Longer warranties are as much a marketing tool used to create a perception of better/longer quality. At least that is what I've seen with products in my business. No changes to the products but the warranty gets extended…complete with new product brochures hawking the longer warranty.
As for the saws, this week I ordered a new 3HP Sawstop PCS. For me, it was a no brainer.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Delta makes the Unisaw, not Baileigh. As for parts, I've owned a Delta for over 15 years and have never needed parts. I don't know that parts are a problem anyway for machines currently in production. "The Gold Standard" is a marketing line, not an actual thing, but PM has a solid reputation. The SS also has a solid reputation in the short time they've been around. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know, go see/touch the saws in person and you'll know. That's how I ended up with the Delta over the Jet and PM, it just seemed "right" when I fiddled with it.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I gave my opinion on the saw but warantee's are a marketing tool. I had a Delta X5 sander, and even with the 5 year warantee it was still a piece of crap. Most modern tools are 1 year. I judge by the number out for resale. I tried for over a year to find a used ICS at a discount price. Could not find it. Still cant. I think that says a lot.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Just me, I would bypass the dinky 10" puni saws and look into a 12-14" such as a clean used PM 72A.
Much more solid machine, more table distance up front, and overall better results.
Never heard a 12"-14" saw owner say, I wish I had a 10".
But, don't stand in front of the board/blade like the owner of sawstop does, take the lead in safety yourself.
By the way, a splitter work just fine, should use one on your current saw.


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## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

Nice reply *unbob*. Please forgive me for spitting my coffee everywheres while reading it.

1. A splitter might be nice on older saws as I have used them quite a lot. But the blade moves away from the splitter when it's being lowered allowing more time for pinch. A riving knife remains constant.

2. Is there something magical that happens with a 12" saw that enables you obtain overall better results?

3. SawStop owners tempt fate? WOW….. I always knew they were idiots!


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I have 2yr. Old 5hp Unisaw that is great. I would not trade it for any other saw. I have used a sawstop they are also good saws but I like my Unisaw better. As long as you practice good safety techniques any good table saw is safe.


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

Saw stop is a no brainer.
Why buy a brand new saw that can cut your fingers off, when you can buy one that won't.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

What most others said, I'd be all over a sawstop.

I think most misinterpret the safety mechanism though; it's not meant to give you a false sense of security. It's there to prevent a potentially harmful and expensive accident when common safety practices fail. Just because your car has airbags doesn't mean you drive like a maniac, right?


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

SawStop is the path I was headed down. Just wanted to get comments from you guys.

Thanks


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I'm sold on the quality and safety and will be getting a SawStop in the spring… If spring ever arrives.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

You are overlooking the advantages of a sliding table saw like my Hammer. These saws are light industrial saws made in Austria and are super accurate. The sliding table with slots allows for the work to be quickly clamped to the table and put through the saw with precision and no slippage. Any number of auxiliary jigs and fixtures can be adapted. All of this keeps your fingers far away from the blade.

Take a look here at what is available: http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/products/table-saws.html

Planeman


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

"2. Is there something magical that happens with a 12" saw that enables you obtain overall better results?"

If it can be called magic, it would simply be the weight, and more rigid nature of the machine , and internal components. Larger arbor, and bearings. These features add to better control and cut finish same as it does with any other machine tool.
Now oddly, people are buying 12" sliding miter saws because they are better, but are stuck on the 10" table saws.
From what I have seen, the SS saw is to compensate for poor practice that is ingrained into many woodworkers.
The best example I have seen is SS inventor Gass himself standing in front of the blade/board. I know people do that all the time and some do get hurt. On the bigger saws that could be fatal.
Another thing I noticed. On most all currently made 10" saws, the off-on switch is on the left side of the blade, the big saws, the switch is on the right side of the blade. I can explain that, but one should really think about that, may change the way they do things.
Maybe alittle like this, safety devices are good but not completely safe in themselves. Where are you placing your body in the danger zone? What about your body balance?
There is the 2 basic things that can save one from injury, as if ones balance is leaning into the machine, something happens, one is moved back, then falls back into the machine. That is basic industrial training with any machine.
My perspective is from the industrial end, not the consumer side.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

Planeman

Kind of looked at sliders. I have never seen one and not real familiar with the operation. I was thinking that the Hammer is out of my price range, however I see it is around $3700. Seems to me you would want the outrigger table and couldn't find a price for that. Size I would look at is the 31 X 48. What accessories do you have? I agree the Hammer is a very nice saw, jut really unfamiliar with slider operations.

Bill


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

+1 Sawstop.
Mike


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/530020%7C530002%7C530000









A sliding table saw could be had with money left over as well.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

This 12" 5HP beast, 48" wide cast iron top 2" thick get some!


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## buildingmonkey (Mar 1, 2014)

I have the Hammer Winner 79 48 on order, and with all the options and shipping is a little under 7000. The shorter sliders are much less expensive. I watched the video of them ripping a live edge board on the slider and I was hooked. I saw my own lumber, and do not edge all the boards, see the 79" rip capacity as a great thing. The sale price is 59-plus shipping, I got all the options because I knew I would be too tight to order anything after I get the saw, and if you get them with it, no extra shipping. I got the fine adjustment for the fence, the clamps, the mobility package, dust adapter, precision miter attachment. Ordered blades from Carbide Processors, reasonably priced and fit the Hammer. Can't comment on their cut, the saw is not here yet.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

"Kind of looked at sliders. I have never seen one and not real familiar with the operation. I was thinking that the Hammer is out of my price range, however I see it is around $3700. Seems to me you would want the outrigger table and couldn't find a price for that. Size I would look at is the 31 X 48. What accessories do you have? I agree the Hammer is a very nice saw, jut really unfamiliar with slider operations." Bill

Hello Bill,

My saw is the 48" x 48". The Hammer K3 saws are all the same except for the length of the sliding table and the side extensions with the 79" x 48" having the additional "outrigger" for large sheets of plywood. Look carefully at the photos on the Hammer website and you can see each of the above mentioned items. The outrigger is a help for supporting 4' x 8' sheets of ply but not necessary. Mine doesn't have it and I don't miss it, but then I am an amateur woodworker in a basement shop who rarely does "casework" and prefers to rough cut large sheets of ply down to slightly over finished size with a circular saw and then precision cut to size on the Hammer. I rarely use the full length of the 48" sliding table. If you got the 48" x 48" saw you could cut a 4' x 4' sheet of ply down the middle either way, but to my way of thinking it would be a pain lifting the heavy sheet up to the table and even then I wouldn't trust a precision cut without large additionally built infeed and outfeed tables in front and behind the saw and an assistant to help move and guide the sheet. All of that means one hell of a roomy workshop! The 31" x 48" would probably work well for you unless you are a professional cabinet maker with an assistant and a sizable shop cutting a lot of ply. Call Jesse Maynerich or Phil at Hammer USA (866-792-5288) or e-mail Jesse at [email protected] and ask if they have someone with a Hammer saw nearby you that you could could talk to and see the saw. Tell them Rufus Carswell sent you. They know me. If you live close to Atlanta, GA where I am come see me ([email protected]).

Planeman


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## lumberingjoe (Jan 25, 2013)

Anything other than Sawstop technology is the no-brainer.

If you don't get it watching a hotdog video, try to imagine the up close feel of a 1 inch high, 3/4 dado-king disappearing or NOT.

I'm damn glad I bought a Sawstop, it happens so fast.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

For four grand , I would invest and even buy a used saw .A European type with a possible USA manufacurer though it wouldn't matter to me,I love the type with the built in sliding table.I love my own very big saw but it is more of an industrial machine. Which for me is a all part of my hobby plans . I love buying big beefy machines andrestoring them not technically or mechanically they must be lightly used and function like a new saw. However repainting, and cleaning, to look just like new, well this gives me a lot of satisfaction and I always love doing this myself. However as said you could walk away with a lightly used pristine sliding tablesaw for four grand I feel sure. Alistair


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

The problem we have here Alistair is our voltage-phase problem. Almost all used industrial machines here are 220V 3-phase and that setup is not available to homeowners who only have access to 110 and 220 volt single phase. 3-phase is only offered to industrial areas. The only option is to install a phase converter in a home shop. To most home workshop people this is beyond their ability to wire up and is another expense. I subscribe to some used machinery auction fliers to keep up with the prices and just for fun. Used 3-phase machines are going for much lower prices than single phase machines and - to me - it would make sense for someone starting or expanding a shop to wire a separate circuit for 22V 3-phase on the shop and install a phase converter for that circuit. You would have to run your machines one at a time, but most of us do that anyway. In the long run you would save a good bit of money and be able to purchase some top grade light industrial machines! But few of us do it. I wish I had done it. But my shop is complete now with single phase.

Planeman


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## GMotichka (Oct 31, 2010)

I would (in fact I did) buy the SawStop Pro without the fence and use your Biesemeyer fence on it.


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## buildingmonkey (Mar 1, 2014)

Don't know how common sliders are in your area,but in mine they are few and far between. Only other one I have seen is a huge SCMi with a 10hp motor 3 phase, with a 10.5' slider. Thing takes up enough room to fill a 2 car garage. Very nice machine though. The guys that have it say they love it, and feel it is much safer than a conventional saw.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

As interesting as a slider is, I believe I will go with the SawStop. Just not sure I would like one. I will get to see both the PCS and ICS before I buy. I know the ICS is a much heavier saw, however the PCS is in the same class as my current Jet and it does everything I need. Thanks for all the input as it has helped me consider all the possibilities.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Ha Ha! this guy was going to buy the SS anyway in the first place With his 4k!
He just needed alittle attention.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

Unbob, your last post is as worthless as your other post. You haven't said anything that has impressed me. The PM 72 does not have a riving knife. I will not have a saw without a riving knife. A splitter is better than nothing, but not as effective as a riving knife. As far a 12 in vs 10 in with the blades available today such as the WWII and Freud fusion you can get very effective cuts with a 10 inch with the advantage to a 12 inch is the size it will cut. No magic. My 10 inch and 12 miter saw inch cut the same. The 12 cuts a bigger piece of wood. I don't need a 12 inch saw for what I do. It only adds more cost for me. I don't really care where Mr. Glass stands. I have been woodworking for over 40 years with out any trips to the ER using all kinds of saws, lathes and hand tools. I know how to operate my equipment safely. Other than your post, I got some good input for all other LJ.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Well golly gee, you know so much with 40yrs experience, why ask for opinions? Sure fooled me!
And now whining about cost with 4k in pocket!
Ah come on! You were buying the SS Puni saw from the start!!!
Another SS shill for sure.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

A lot of great input into various higher end saws on here, from some great people. Id love to have 4k to drop on a saw. Id love to so much that I have made it a goal to save towards. When the time comes, even though Im pretty set on a SS myself, I would certainly not assume to just drop 4k without seeking out the advice of my fellow LJ brothers and sisters, no matter what my experience level. This thread has been great for that, and info on sliders, etc. Thank you to all of the contributors. Still not quite sure what unbob is saying though.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Just stating my view.
As I said, I do lean toward heavier industrial equipment.
For these reasons, weight, robust construction and serviceability. Industrial equipment is designed to be rebuilt many times.
Heavy machines produce better cut finish, simply because of the weight and resulting reduced vibration. That is not just an opinion its fact with all industrial equipment, metal or woodworking.
I am currently using two 12"-14" saws-Delta and Powermatic. Those saws weigh about twice of 10" saws.
The third saw is a 16" 10 hp Northfield, that saw weighing in about twice the weight of the 12-14s, or 4 times a 10" does a little better cut finish then the 12-14s. No belts on the Northfield, direct drive super precision motor-near dead smooth running.
A near 2000lb all cast iron 16" saw is going to perform a smoother cut, far out perform, and last any 10" saw really is no contest.
However, a 12"-14" is a good compromise of the two extremes, and has the larger table, more room up front.
That is what I am saying.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

Excellent, thank you for the useful and factual information.


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## gtbuzz (Sep 19, 2011)

Bill, not sure why some people have to act as if you kicked their dog or slapped their mom when you don't take their advice specifically, but I'm sure you'll be very happy with a SS, just as you probably would have been with any of the other saws listed. For me, I didn't see any major advantages that the PM2000 or Unisaw had vs the PCS for roughly the same price, however the SS had one major advantage and it's what sold me on it.

Little bit of advice - if you plan on moving it ever after finding a location for it, opt for the ICS mobile base even on the PCS saw. 4 independent casters vs 2 fixed. So much easier to move. Also, the overarm dust extraction works pretty decent. There's a lot less dust hanging around if I use that setup vs when I have to use a riving knife alone. If you're just shaving off the edge of a board there is still some shavings that will shoot out at you though. I've seen people just put a temp dust collection hood on the dust collection side and that seems to help with those cuts, but I haven't tried it myself.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Wait a minute, I could care less if this fellow takes my advice or not.
He ask for advice, when he was going to buy a dinky SS anyway. Others mentioned sliders, all a waste of time there.
The give away "I have 4k to spend" so its a 4k SS from the gate to finish.
My dog certainly was not kicked, I happen to think its funny.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

Unbob, can you tell me what purpose posts 32, 34, and 39 served?


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

"Unbob, can you tell me what purpose posts 32, 34, and 39 served?"

I was addressed, and then responded.
And "Boo Hoo" a bunch of whiners always fighting over 10" punysaws.
I best not ever respond regarding consumer grade tools, being from an industrial background perspective, just causes consumer problems.
A wasted effort for sure.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

Ok my mistake. From my point of view you were ripping into someone else. The only reason I could see was to possibly stroke your own ego. Thank you for correcting me, because after all, I am no psychologist.

Youve been here long enough to know, that this community is pretty nice. Myself, when I post, I think, how will this person receive this? Am I being nice?

Just a few hours ago, I complimented a guy on his review of a saw. He is thrilled with his saw, and from what I could tell from his review, I would not be. Just because our needs are different doesn't mean I say something rude to the guy, in fact I complimented his absolutely incredible in depth review. He was nice enough to PM me and thank me. Personally, Id like this guy to buy every saw on the market and review them!

Back to my point Unbob, I think it may be possible that some members of the LJ community take some of your comments as rude, and UN-nessesary. On the other hand, I could be wrong, and maybe it's just me.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

Gtbuzz, the industrial base and opt for the overarm dust extractor is the configuration I am going for with a SawStop. 
The Box Whisper, your comments are right on target.
Unbob, since I am not trying to build a industrial plant I have no desire to buy a saw just because it is large. There are thousands of 50 year old 10 inch unisaw a still going strong as well as my 30 year old Jet. The older saws just don't have some of the newer safety features. Finally I can buy any of the saws I listed originally, I was looking for feed back regarding those saws and others in my price range. Sliders are still interesting. I do not need a 12 inch cabinet saw or want a saw without a riving knife attachment. I still have plenty of time to research and make a final decision regardless of what you think.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

I think some are far to sensitive, I am a life long industrial machinist, and now also doing industrial woodwork also.
There are more then a few that like the heavier equipment, for hobby use. Its just another option.
Safety devices, well, don't count on them too much. One poster here awhile back had riving knife come loose, contact the blade, fly out and injuring him.
Now, Gass and the Sawstop, there he is standing directly in front of the blade/board with meat on it, pushing it through, hands straddling the blade.
At any reasonable managed company, or school, that is forbidden for good reason, even the riving knife could come loose and hit you.
What struck me about Gass is, yes he came up with a safety device, but, he does not know how to safely operate a table saw! Far from an expert in overall saw safety it would appear from his own video.
I will refrain from commenting on consumer grade machines.
Best to examine your own situation and take your own lead in safety.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

The truth is it is the skill and ability of the user more than the tool that is important. Watching a few videos on YouTube of 3rd world craftsmen using the most basic of tools like a bow-driven lathe with two nails for centers and resting a rusty chisel on their foot can turn out amazing objects. I liken much of this "ultimate tool" thing to a man driving his Ferrari around the city. In the end, he doesn't get to his destination any quicker than a fellow driving a Volkswagen Beetle. Its nice to have the ultimate tool, but it is rarely necessary.

Just my 2 cents
Planeman


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

Unbob I understand your opinion that you prefer a larger table saw. It is not that I don't like heaver equipment as I have a PM 90 lathe and a minimax FS35 jointer/planer each over 700 pounds. Not the biggest by any means, but bigger than most. I also have a Dewalt 735 planer that weights a lot less, but does a good job. I agree that Mr. Glass showed poor judgement in standing behind the saw and no one should. The video should have showed all safety considerations. I am looking at the technology offered. As far as making a final decision you are wrong to assume I am buying the SawStop. That may be my final decision, but it is not final yet. I am still very interested the slider as I feel it offers a different level of safety. I just have not seen one to see if it would be the right saw for me. Hammer would be my first choice, but Grizzly is also considered. I am sold on the effectiveness of a riving knife. There will always be outliers with equipment such as a carbide tooth coming loose, etc. I keep a pair of safety glasses hanging on the switch, as even standing correctly you never know what can happen. Once I buy a saw I will post here, but I intend to purchase in about a month so I can take my time to decide what saw will be right for me.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

Bill one thing you should consider is cast iron table depth and width, the Grizzly I recommended is 4 inches wider and nearly 4 inches deeper. The table is also nearly 2" thick. Fence is longer. 1" arbor vs 5/8. 5HP vs 3HP. The ability to cut thicker stock when you need to, like cross cutting a 4×4. When you are spending that kind of money of course buy what makes you happy but if you are looking for some differentiators those are a few.

SS of course has the safety feature going for it though from the videos I have seen of that thing in action I'm wondering how many times the rest of that saw can take that shockwave. Of course trashing expensive blades on a misfire is a bummer. I don't know how common that is, just some threads I have seen posted every now and then. If I were accident prone I'd probably opt for the SS, who knows as I get older I may go SS.

SS PRo 44" x 27"

Powermatic PM 2000 42" x 30.5"

Grizzly G0696X 48.25" x 30.75"


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

For what its worth I read a post from Charles Neil commenting on having a sawstop that he has tripped over 50 times for demos, that is still dead accurate. The hardware is confirmed as oversize, to be able to handle this. It may even be as big as some 12 inch saws.

For my work, using wood to build things, like furniture, 3-5 horses is 3-5 horses. The advantages to a 12 inch blade would purely be if I needed the additional cutting depth.

I will go on record and saw that I will buy a sawstop. I also work as safely as possible, and anyone that dosnt agree that standing behind the blade is not smart should think long and hard about using a table saw. I also wont work without the glasses. As has been stated carbide teeth can fly and I like my eyes.

Ive never cared much for politics, but I wont put a price limit on my fingers. Anything can happen, and it can happen fast. See my signature.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

Darthford it is a nice saw. I would probably do the GO605, same saw with 52 inch fence as that is what I have had. Not a big deal, but I have a lot of nice blades with 5/8 arbor I won't be able to use. Laguna also makes a saw with a large table, but can't find any reviews on it. The grizzly is lot of saw.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

That's certainly a consideration Bill, I only had a couple of 10" Forrest blades and it was tough to choke that down even. Of course my RAS also has a 1" arbor arrgh! I ended up giving the 10" blades to my brother so not a total loss.

I do like this picture of a 10" vs a 12" (oh oh oh) you there piece of wood…get some! lol


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

The 12 is a beast no doubt. I love my 10, and may get the chopmaster 12 for my miter saw. I may get bashed for this but I wish they made a 7 1/4….


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

Wow I just saw a SS Pro 3HP an hour ago at my local woodworking store…it looks dinky. Even the PM2000 looks a lot more beefy let alone my 12".


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

I must say darthford, your picture of the saw blades looks impressive. I won't get to look at saws until after next week. I am building a new house and making all of the kitchen and laundry room cabinets. I think most if not all of the parts are made, but assembly is taking longer than I thought. The PM and Delta are local. Not sure the local equipment store has saws in stock,maybe just catalogue, SawStop is an hour away. My local woodworking store is HF. Once I see some saws I will have a better idea of what I want.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

I'm certainly not bashing the SS (no offense SS owners) just stating a fact side by side the SS does not compare one iota to the 12" Grizzly which costs a fair bit less. I guess it will come down to the safety feature of the SS which is not a minor feature. But to me the SS looks like a lightweight machine, I grabbed the extension wings and tugged on them a bit. No where near as stout and the top size looks quite small. Again I have gotten used to my 12" so everything short of the old 14" beasts looks small to me now. Mark my words you should go look at the SS in person before buying it.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

Been there done that on cabinets Bill, the real pain is finishing them unless you purchased prefinished sheet which if I ever build a set again (I WON'T!!!) I'd opt for prefinished.


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## buildingmonkey (Mar 1, 2014)

Guess I should have pointed out that the Hammer saws are 12". And I posted the wrong price, the 79 48 is selling for 5499 right now, plus 350 freight and all the options you think you need, it does come with the scoring saw and outriggers, I also got the fine adjustment on the fence, and precision miter attachment, mobility parts, 4" adapter for the dc. Just figure I better order all the goodies with the saw, or I'll beat myself up later.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

This is all very interesting. I am surprised to hear that the SS feels so small. I would have thought that the oversize build would bring it a little close to what the 12" models look like. Very good to know and thank you to all who are contributing to this thread. Also, to darthfords advice " Mark my words you should go look at the SS in person before buying it." I think this is great advice for any saw, especially one this big. Nobody wants a regret, let alone an expensive one.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

I always Intended to look at the saw before buying. As far as the slider I am hung up on the rip capacity. The hammer 31-48 is within my price range, the 48-48 is slightly over my range. The 48-79 is too far out. So what is the intended use for the 31-48? I can see the 48-48 as you could cut sheets in half and you could use the 48-79 for a lot of things. I think I would be using the 31-48 mostly as a table saw and not get the benefit of the slider that much. 
I did use pre-finished ply where I could on the cabinets, but I have about 30 or more to assemble and no I won't do this again, but I think they will turn out good. Kitchen African Mahogany and laundry is painted maple. Got the maple cheaper than popular.


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