# Kitchen Remodel



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Buffet and Hutch*

My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.

This is going to be a multiple phase project. I need to do something with the floor. We are on a cement slab floor and it is killing both of our legs. The kitchen had a Pergo floor when we bought the house, but we had a frozen water line before we moved in and the Pergo floor got curled edges, so it was all pulled up.

I don't' think I want 3/8" inch flooring and I'm leaning to solid hardwood 3/4" thick. Either on the cement or over a spacer board underneath. I don't know what I'll do yet. I'm still researching.

So in the interim I going to start to build a couple of furniture pieces that will be in the kitchen.

The first is a Buffet / Hutch. This is from Fine Woodworking Jan / Feb of 2007. I don't plan on making this exact design. I don't know if we will have glass in the upper cabinet. I want all drawers on the bottom not cabinet doors. But, the construction details are fairly solid.







. I'm starting to draw the full size legs with all of the mortise for the styles and rails. They used 1/2" plywood for the sides and backs, but I'll probably go with 3/4 and put some burl cherry veneer on it. The wood will be cherry. I'll get to use the 19" cherry board for the Buffet top surface. I'll have to glue on a 1 1/2" piece at the back to make it 21 1/2. Of course my planer is only 20" wide so I'll have to finish up the joint with a hand plane or scraper.

I plan to take down a wall that is beside the refrigerator to make it an "L" shaped kitchen. There is no dining room so it is an eat-in-kitchen. The previous owner took down a half-wall between the kitchen area and the eating area.

I plan to build a couple of furniture items 1) The Buffet and 2) A storage pantry for all of the can goods.

The floor area is approx 400 Sq Ft. after I take out the wall.

I'm waiting for a woodworker club member to finish assembling a pantry cabinet that he is building for a commission. I want to show it to my wife. She is not good at visualizing without pictures or actual items.

She wants the kitchen light, but I'm going to sneak in this Cherry Buffet while the color is still light and then let it age in her kitchen.

She's happy with Dave's Cherry Thorsen Table. So it might be a good match. When i start working on the rest of the cabinets we'll see what the wood becomes, and also the floor.

Any suggestions or pictures of a storage pantry would be nice if you have some.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Buffet and Hutch*
> 
> My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.
> 
> ...


I have a 3/8" or so engineered hardwood floor on cement. I would agree with you to go with 3/4 and make it solid wood. We have a number of wear spots now and refinishing is really not an option. The floor is a good 5 years old now.

The cabinet looks great. She should love it.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Buffet and Hutch*
> 
> My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info Wayne. I made my own flooring for the kitchen in New Jersey. I resawed maple boards into 1/2" thick and surfaced to 3/8". I made tongue and groove and said never again for that project.


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## CarverRog (Jan 31, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Buffet and Hutch*
> 
> My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.
> 
> ...


A piece of cherry 19" w. is almost a unheard of these days. Just watch for cupping. My grandparents had a very small walk in pantry with a curtain hung across the opening.

When I remodeled our house we had hardwood flooring glued down to the concrete and we haven't had any trouble yet and that was 6 years ago.

Good luck with all of your projects they all sound like this could take some time.


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Buffet and Hutch*
> 
> My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.
> 
> ...


Karson -

Very interesting project ahead - I will enjoy seeing how you progress. The cabinet is beautiful and looks like a great place to start. Are you going to vacuum press your cherry burl veneer? I am just starting to experiment with a vacuum press (I saw you gave a class to the your woodworking association) so I will be looking forward to your future postings on this project (and of course I love cherry so I agree wih your choice of wood!).


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Buffet and Hutch*
> 
> My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments. I'll try to keep a look out for cupping Rog. I believe it has air dried for 4-5 years.

David Yes I'll be using a vacuum press for the veneer.


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## mot (May 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Buffet and Hutch*
> 
> My wife says I can't do anything else before I start on her Kitchen. Well except for her hall table and ??. Of course there is also the Summer Contest.
> 
> ...


Now that's off to a nice start! Thanks, Karson!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Making the legs.*

Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.

I started out by making a full size template on plywood for all of the milling that needs to be done on the legs.










Can you believe that those two templates have all of the instructions for milling 8 surfaces on the legs?
Now you may ask what do you mean by 8 surfaces. This is the way that I was taught when you make a project with legs.










You number them. The right front is 1 and you go counterclock wise to 8. You only number the surfaces that touch another leg. Surfaces 1 and 8 are the front.

This allows you to make items like aprons and then you label the ends with the appropriate numbers. You might see the numbers on the shelf supports on the Thorsen Tables that I worked on.










When you dry fit a part you label it so that when you start to glue, you know that you have all of the appropriate parts, and the one's you don't need are put away. This keeps you from gluing the wrong part in at the wrong place.

After labeling the legs, I then put the marks for the mortises on the legs.










Then it was then on to the mortise machine to cut out square holes.










Cutting out the spaces between the ends of the mortise.










When you get done you better have matching holes in each of the adjoining pieces










Then it's out to the Horizontal Router to cut the long mortises for the side panels.










Note to self and others Router bits do break. This one just dropped to the ground and didn't go flying around. Praise the Lord! New router bit and complete the job.










Line up the ends in number order and verify that the cuts were made correctly.










Then match the other sides and check them out.










This is the pattern that I'm modifying for my kitchen. Fine Woodworking Jan / Feb 2007.










All done for tonight now to eat smoked chicken that was cooking with cherry wood smoke.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Good clear instructions. Thanks for sharing.

P.S. We are thinking along similar lines. About to the the Tri Tip of the smoker. They have been on for about 3 hours. Hickory.


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing Karson….talk more about how you develop your story poles. Do you mark and label all the critical dimensions on the plywood and then transfer to the pieces?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Bob:

The plans in Fine Woodworking, even though nice are not useful for making a project easily. Some of the dimensions are on the pictures and sometimes they are in the article. And sometimes they are wrong. I mean that most magazines post errata with changes, but when you are trying to find dimensions and position for mortises and you have to look all over the place to find them, It doesn't make them easy.

So for my story stick, I made a full size cutting of plywood. I started marking the positions of the mortises, and I realized that most of the mortises have a 1/4" cut on all sides. So a 3/4" thick piece had a 1/4" mortise and tenon. The rails at the top and bottom have a 1/4" grove cut in them to allow for plywood for the insert. The top rail ended up with a 1/2" cut for the tenon, where it touched the panel, while the bottom one had still the 1/4" cut. Why the difference. ??

The overall length was 33" that was stated in two different places. So I figured that was OK. The bottom has a taper for the last 5". OK. The bottom apron didn't state anything where it belonged. I surmised that it matched the side, so that is where I placed it.

The mortise slots for the top rails were shown in the pictures, but the dimensions turned out to be incorrect. No where is the panel size shown, you have to calculate that out by yourself. The length of the rails are not shown, only the width. The visible length is stated on a sideways picture, and you know that you cut 1" deep mortises, but you can't put in 1" in length tenons because they might hit solid trash in the bottom of the mortise. So probably 7/8" is OK. I'll cut for a 1" and try during dry-fitting but be prepared to shorten if necessary.

So to answer your question, I made all markings from the top edge of the leg, so if one was marked off then the one below would not also be off.

Since I putting in drawers and not shelves, I also had to design my drawer supports and draw them on the story stick.

As it turned out, one story stick was for the front inside edges, (edges 8 and 1) The other story stick has the measurements for the top and bottom rails and the plywood groove. It worked out to be OK for the sides and also the back. The sides (edges 2 & 3, and 6 & 7) also need my drawer supports, while the back does not need them. So it is on the story stick but not transferred to the leg.

The story stick is quite messy because I had to write in ink, because the pencil didn't show up very well. But after I wrote something down, I then found that I need another cutting in the same place as the writing. But I'll never make it over. This maybe a first and only time construction. But, I'll keep my plans just in case.

I cut the square mortises 1 1/16" deep for all of the mortise slots. I then went to the horizontal router table and cut the 1/4" X 1/4" slots for the plywood. They cut up into where the mortise slots were placed for the rails. The legs take the place of styles on the sides. On the back there are some internal styles. But I'll need a new story stick for those measurements.

Any more questions, keep them coming and keep me honest.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


This is a wonderful "how to". You need to add a "how to" tag to this so we can find it later!! (that and I'm going add it to my favourites for future reference)


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## mot (May 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Nice, karson! An excellent howto! I've looked at FWW plans before and I don't do well with the befuddled look. Nice job!


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## fred (Mar 7, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


I really like your detailed planning. I am finally starting to recognize the benefits of planning in detail.

Thanks,


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


A story stick is a great way to eliminate measuring mistakes, especially when duplicating parts.


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the explanation Karson….what do you mean by "solid trash at the bottom of the mortice"?

Are these plans that you bought from FWW?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Bob: Since the mortise is 1/4" wide and the smallest chisle is 1/4" wide and not wanting to make the mortise wider. have opted to leave the holes as drilled. so there might be small pieces of wood at the bottom. A square chisle with a round drill bit in the middle of it does not get all of the wood out.

That is what I was referring to as trash. I've knocked out all drill tailings but some wood fibers are visable and present. Dry fitting might get rid of them.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Making the legs.*
> 
> Well I started the Buffet / Hutch. If I don't get started I won't have anything to say without getting myself in trouble, when my wife asks me what I'm making in the shop.
> 
> ...


Looks good!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Buffet / Hutch Cutting the Stiles and Rails*

The continuation of the Buffet / Hutch build. Today was a busy day, just not in the shop. Lunch with my wife, pick up the kids at school, etc. So when I got into the shop it was after dark.

I posted a blog on 
Hardwood Lumber Grading
This is why. My best friend, who I moved away from when I moved to Delaware, and I went together to purchase some wood that was rated as Select. I was unable to go pick it up, but he went and picked up the wood.

If I had been there I think I would have walked away from the deal. It looks like to me that the seller cherry picked (not a pun on words) the select cherry and sold it to someone else or these boards were kicked out by a previous buyer. Here is the front of some of the boards. Yes they look like select lumber, Maybe a little light on the length.










But, here is the reverse side










The hardwood grading article has this statement when talking about No 2A Common: "The smallest clear cutting allowed is 3" by 2' and the number of these cuttings depends on the size of the board. If the poorest face meets the minimum requirements for Number 2A Common, it does not matter what the grade of the
better face is."

These boards are Select on the front face but maybe not even 2A Common on the back. If you were making a piece of furniture and you would see both faces then these boards are not acceptable. They classify this as flooring grade. On the buffet portion of this project, you don't see the inside so I'm trying to use up this wood instead of using better wood.

I had to make a story stick of the stiles and rails, in order to get the correct dimensions of this chest. See the previous blog about my feeling about the Fine Woodworking articles on making furniture.

So the boards were cut to length;










Then it was on to the jointer to true up one edge. I previously jointed the face and planed the thickness to get clear wood. This was done to allow me to see how these boards could be used.










Back to the table saw to rip to width.










The spots you see on two boards were the sweat of my brow, working in unfavorable conditions. I need to talk to the owner about that. I need Air Conditioning.

I stopped to figure out my tenons on these pieces, and the mortises on the rails for the stiles to fit in. I also wanted to post this blog. Tomorrow is toy making day (Wed) so maybe tomorrow night I'll get the tenons cut and then do a dry fit.

Again here is the Buffet that I'm attempting to build except mine will be all drawers in the buffet portion.










Picture Copyright Fine Woodworking Jan/Feb 2007.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Buffet / Hutch Cutting the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> The continuation of the Buffet / Hutch build. Today was a busy day, just not in the shop. Lunch with my wife, pick up the kids at school, etc. So when I got into the shop it was after dark.
> 
> ...


I guess I should study the pamplet. I'm a little too trusting of the lumber dealers.


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## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Buffet / Hutch Cutting the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> The continuation of the Buffet / Hutch build. Today was a busy day, just not in the shop. Lunch with my wife, pick up the kids at school, etc. So when I got into the shop it was after dark.
> 
> ...


I buy "rustic" cherry with more heart wood.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Buffet / Hutch Cutting the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> The continuation of the Buffet / Hutch build. Today was a busy day, just not in the shop. Lunch with my wife, pick up the kids at school, etc. So when I got into the shop it was after dark.
> 
> ...


great wood for the right project but you shouldn't be paying big $$$ for not-so-perfect wood lol


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Buffet / Hutch Cutting the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> The continuation of the Buffet / Hutch build. Today was a busy day, just not in the shop. Lunch with my wife, pick up the kids at school, etc. So when I got into the shop it was after dark.
> 
> ...


A couple of the boards have some curly figure to them. And the price was OK. The ability to use the wood to it's full potential was my concern.

It's limited use is on pieces that have only one face visible. Even the side cuts have sap wood showing.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Buffet / Hutch Cutting the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> The continuation of the Buffet / Hutch build. Today was a busy day, just not in the shop. Lunch with my wife, pick up the kids at school, etc. So when I got into the shop it was after dark.
> 
> ...


Dennis: I think rustic can also mean more visable knots etc. Which is probably the look that you want.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Cutting the Tenons for the Stiles and Rails*

Cutting the tenons and fixing the mortises.

In an earlier blog I was talking about story sticks and laying out the mortise cuts for the legs. I further stated that in my reply to Bob that: "The rails at the top and bottom have a 1/4" grove cut in them to allow for plywood for the insert. The top rail ended up with a 1/2" cut for the tenons, where it touched the panel, while the bottom one had still the 1/4" cut. Why the difference. ??"

Well I found out why the difference. I miscalculated the length of the mortise. When I tried to fit the tenons into the mortise slot I found that I was ¼" off. So this is another result of Fine Woodworking articles not being to user friendly for making some of their projects.
Luckily I just had to lengthen the mortise. It didn't require replacing any cut wood.

But back to the beginning of the day.
I cut the shoulders for the tenons on my Sliding table on the table saw.


















I then trued up the end of the tenons using the hand chisel,










Then it was dry assembling the ends of the buffet. The white wood assembled in the ends is Oak that I'm using for the drawer slides. This picture is looking at the inside of the cabinet view of the ends.










This view is looking at the ends as would be seen by the user.










You will note: (I'm sure that you already see it, but I'm just stating the obvious) the slots for the plywood are cut in the legs, but they are not cut in the rails.

I've now placed the rails for the back in place and the apron for the front under the drawers. This is also the obligatory clamp photo.


















And









You might also note the liberal use of sapwood on the inside of the case. And the minimal use on the outside.

Now cutting the plywood groves in the end and sides rails, both upper and lower. Making sure that I don't cut it on the wrong edge. I also cut it on both edges of the internal stiles on the back. I use the horizontal router for this machining, using a ¼" spiral carbide router bit.










I now reassemble the case, after having measuring and cutting the mortise slots in the upper and lower rails in the back. It looks like the plywood will only be off by 1/16" difference in width on one panel. The other two will be the same.


















The only piece of sapwood visible in the outside of the frame is lower right of the back rail. about 1/4" wide and 6" long.

I think that's it for tonight. The next blog will one on veneering the panels. I'll try to be more hands on as I do that. (David this is for you, because you asked). I also have to go into an engineering phase as I determine how I'm going to design and build the center supports for the drawers.

Here is a sample of the veneer that I'll be using. My wife OK'ed it. It is a Cherry Burl.










See you soon.


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## Don (Dec 18, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Cutting the Tenons for the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> Cutting the tenons and fixing the mortises.
> 
> ...


Thanks for showing this, Karson. Most interesting.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cutting the Tenons for the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> Cutting the tenons and fixing the mortises.
> 
> ...


Very informative. Thanks


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cutting the Tenons for the Stiles and Rails*
> 
> Cutting the tenons and fixing the mortises.
> 
> ...


Hey …your 1st picture could have been my shop this past weekend (except for my crappy tablesaw). I was cutting the shoulders on my chair.

Great blog Karson….it certainly reinforces my idea to always recreate any plans I get. I've used plans from others a few times before. I always have spent the time to re-draft the plans to make sure all the dimensions are correct and to help me organize my thoughts.
Now with the use of Sketchup I don't even think about picking up a tool before working out all the details ahead of time.

I'll be adding to my Sketchup blog shortly to show the level of detail possible and to illustrate some presentation possibilities to clients. It has changed how I work.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*

Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.

Two screw-up's, two corrections, one modification. Only had to recut two pieces of wood, not too major. Could have been a lot worse, and re-planed 6 boards that were too thick.
I left off with the making of the lower case for the Buffet / Hutch. I stated that I needed to do some veneering and also some engineering for the mid drawer slides. I've done the veneering and done no engineering yet.

So these are the pictures of the veneering. It's going to be a long blog with lots of pictures.
These are the tools that I use for doing my veneering,










The yellow item toward the top is a 4' ruler with 150 grit sandpaper glued to the back










The items in order are from top left Straight edge ruler, you could also use a long straight piece of wood for edge work on cutting veneer. Next is an X-acto knife set. Put it back in the storage closet, you can't use it for veneering. The blade is too flimsy and will follow the grain of the veneer - Very Bad -. Below that is a 2" chisel, sharpened like you wouldn't believe. (It can never be too sharp). Beside that is a knife that I picked up at Harbor Freight, I don't know the product number, I just know it cost only a couple of bucks. It's great for cutting veneer and I use it more than the chisel because it's easier to hold. Also ultra sharp. A rotary cutter from your wife's seamstress basket, or a craft store that sells fabric. It is used to cut veneer, very effective for course cuts. They are all lying on a 2' X 3' cutting mat. It also is from the fabric store. You can cut into the top surface but will not go through both surfaces. This protects the cutting surface on you chisels. Below them are two veneer saws. They have a saw cutting edge. Do not use them on the mat use them on scrap plywood.

To the left is a block of wood with sandpaper glued on it. It's used for cleaning up the edge of veneer after it has been cut. Two smaller rulers. Lower left is a piece of cherry, planed smooth, with chromium oxide polishing compound rubbed on it like a crayon. To the left is red rouge, also rubbed on the cherry.
I believe that the chromium Oxide is the finer grit of the two. It is used to polish the cutting edge on the chisel and the knife. The polishing compound is in a stick form and is made with wax and polishing compound. You will note the black marks on the chromium oxide side. That is metal that was rubbed off as I polished the cutting edge and the back. Then there is a piece of veneer, this one is walnut burl. Then tape. I use packing tape and I'll tell you why later. I also use blue tape but not as much as I used to use. I also tell you why later. (If I forget to tell you remind me and I'll update the blog.)










Here I'm sanding the edge of some veneer that has been cut. I use a sheet of plywood on the bottom to slide the block upon. The veneer overhangs a straight piece of wood. (Straight is not relatively straight - but critically straight) The ruler is placed on top of the veneer with the sandpaper down. You press down on it as you sand the veneer flat to the bottom board (Don't sand your ruler, have it 1/16" back from the edge. You could also put a strip of sandpaper on the bottom board if your veneer want to slide as you are sanding it. You don't want it to move because you want a long straight edgr. You will know you have succeeded when you can put the sanded edges together from two pieces of veneer and you can't see any gaps.

Note: Veneer matching can be done three ways: 1) Book match, 2)Slip match, and 3) Random. When you purchase veneer you should get a bunch of sheets that are matched as they came from the log. Meaning all of the pieces are very similar, and when you do book matching it means that you take two sheets and open them like the pages in a book and they look like mirror images of one another. Slip matching is where you take two of more sheets and you lay them down side by side with the left on the left and the right on the right. They are being slipped off like pages off your printer. They look the same, but they are not mirrored. Random is where you take sheets of veneer that are from different trees but are the same wood. If you work in an office you might notice that some of the doors are slip matched and others are book matched. You could also have rotary cut, which is what your construction grade plywood is made of. They cut the veneer on a lathe and you end up with a big sheet 8' wide and 100' long. You cannot buy big sheets of rotary veneer. You may find rotary veneer but it could be 20" to 30" wide.

Here I am sharpening the knife prior to cutting veneer










You can see the reflection on the back of the chisel.










I tend to slide the cutting tools sideways on the sharpening block.

Here is a book matched veneer that I took to a class taught by Jeff Jewitt on finishing. I won best in class with this. It was all done with French Polishing.










You need to get your veneer and lay it out, so you can measure width and length. You might need 1 sheet or multiple sheets, depending on what you are covering. In my case I need 17 ½" wide by 23" long. The veneer was 11" wide so I needed to use 9" on 2 sheets and book match them. I'm using Cherry Burl Veneer of this Buffet, with cherry lumber.










So I needed a total of 4 sheets for both ends.










You will note that all 4 sheets look the same on the visible edge. I lay the veneer on the cutting mat with one edge lined up on a line of the mat, the ruler is now lined up on another line. This will give me an approx. 90 deg edge.










I'm cutting the veneer to 24" so I have a little extra. I then separate the piece.










The sandpaper on the ruler keeps it from moving around as I drag the knife down its edge. The mfg cut on the original veneer was straight so I didn't need to sand it straight.










I use small pieces of packing take to hold the edges together. You press the tape on one sheet of veneer and pull the tape tight to the other sheet of veneer and then place the tape on its surface.










I then use the roll of tape and completely cover the entire seam. Press it down firmly to hold the surface together.










You now have a seamed joint.










Now as to why I don't use blue tape. If you put blue tape into the veneer bag it is pressed so hard that it actually compresses the veneer and you see marks where the tape was. Plus it is a bear to get off. The packing tape is so thin it leaves no mark on the veneer and it pulls of without taking a lot of wood with it.

Now it's a matter of cutting it to width.. You want the joint to be in the middle of the panel. Not an 11" on one side and 6" on the other. So I needed 17" so I'm cutting it to 18" wide. 9" from the seam










You then end up with a 24" long panel that is 18" wide.










Do be careful cutting veneer with surgically sharp tools. Flesh is real easy to cut sliding the knife down the ruler that is being held with fingers.










This veneer has a defect. As yours will probably have also. I will fill this hole with epoxy and cherry sanding dust and then sand it smooth to the surface. It will match the small void that is present.

When you get done you will end up with three panels, all the same size (these are for the back)










And some scrap. Don't cry maybe you will find a use for it later, but you should probably trash it and consider that you got the best and leaving the scraps.










Now I get my plywood and mark the edges of the veneer sheets. Leaving a gap between the sheets, or you could tape them together for easy of aligning them on the base. I'm using big orange box plywood called sanding ply. It's almost like Baltic birch (9 layers of wood in ¾") and the face is being covered anyway so I don't need the birch ply.










I also mark the center line of the base so that it can be aligned straight with the veneer. I start putting on the glue not too thick because with this veneer there are lots of pores for the glue to come through to the next surface.










I've also use a small 4" foam paint roller to spread the glue. The roller sucks up the glue from the first panel and gives it up on the second panels. So it's harder to control the amount of glue that you need to put down.

I didn't have a lot of time to take pictures and get this panel into the vacuum veneering bag.










What I did is I covered the veneer and the base with butcher paper. It has a plastic coating that keeps meat juices from running out. In my case I want to keep glue juices from running out all over my veneer bag and sticking everything together into a solid block of STUFF. I have covered the paper with a product call a fishnet caul. This caused problem #1. This is the veneer press sucking down the veneer and my base wood.










Four hours later out of the bag










Problem #1










The caul didn't press down effectively on the veneer and I ended up with a big fold/bubble in the veneer at the seam.

What to do: Solution #1 Wet it down with water and put a piece of plywood on top to try and press it flat. #2 cut it out and put in a patch #3 leave it alone. (It's handmade, a carpenters mark) #4 Put new veneer on the back and start again. Of the three panels, two had a problem and the third one was ok.
Since the glue was not fully cured I started with #1. I took a water bottle and covered the appropriate places with water. I put the butcher paper back on top, I then put another piece of Plywood on top of the paper, and I then placed the fishnet caul on top of that. Back in the bag










The fishnet caul softenes the edge of the plywood so that the veneer bag is not punctured by a sharp edge of the plywood.

I left it in the bag overnight and in the morning low-and-behold. It's cured










The bubble is gone. I let it sit out while I glue up the next panels and the bubble didn't reappear.
The veneer overhung the base by ¼" on one side and ¾" on the other.


















Both sheets of ply glued up with veneer. The two ends and the back panels. You can see the glue that came through the pores of the veneer. I'll use a scraper to take it off.










Now it's a matter of cutting the separate panels from the sheet and cutting the rabbit on the back so that the panel will slide into the dado on the legs and the stiles and rails.


















Dry fitting the 3 back panels into the stiles and rails.










Now separating the side panels from its sheet.










The end panels dry fitted.










The inside of the end panels










I mentioned earlier having to re thickness plane six pieces of wood. You probably see them on the previous picture. They were too thick and wouldn't let the panel fit in. I had to make them 5/8 instead of ¾" thick.

Oh! Why not. Dry fit the base so far.










And










The inside










Now it's time for engineering for the bottom and for the middle drawer slide.
We can talk later.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


Great post Karson. Thanks for all of the information.


----------



## David (Jan 26, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


Karson -

I had to read this several times! Excellent post and very rich with information and learning points. I very much appreciate your step-by-step process and wonderful photos. Your panels turned out great and the project is really progressing nicely. This was a very timely post as I am just starting to work with a press in my shop. Much smaller scale than you - but as with most things, I am sure this skill will grow on me and I will start using it a lot. I will need to read your post again as I have made some notes and I am sure there is more to glean!

My first veneering project will be some cherry veneered panels for my cherry quilt chests. Later I want to try some panels with other species that will contrast nicely with a cherry frame.

Thank you for a very well written and illustrated posting. Excellent!


----------



## Billp (Nov 25, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


I really enjoy reading your progress and watching the videos. You are convincing me to try veenering. Keep up the good work.


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## oscorner (Aug 7, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


Very nice job and great post. Very detailed and informative. Try not to bleed for each project. My projects seem to require a little blood every now and then, no matter how careful I think I'm being. It really looks great.


----------



## mot (May 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


Wow! That's a great description, karson! Thanks for the writeup. This is "Veneer Day," at Lumberjocks!


----------



## Caliper (Mar 12, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Karson. As always, a very information-rich blog post and has been added to my favorites.


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Vacuum Veneering for the Buffet / Hutch*
> 
> Well it's been a weekend, not a lot of work done, but enough to make you think that you've accomplished something.
> 
> ...


Very nice. Thats gonna be one handsome cabinet.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*

I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.

I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware.

Old Picture. You can see my Greene and Greene Thorsten table that was entered in a LumberJock challenge.










New picture.









The counter top is from the old cabinet. i plan to put down Corian. I'm doing it myself so I'll do some fill-in first until I get the shop emptied a little.

I built one upper cabinet and one lower cabinet. A lot of other wood has been cut and the pieces needing veneer have been mostly covered. I was attempting to determine the math to be able to do the rest of the cabinets easily. The pieces (I hope have all been cut large)

The veneer is Eucalyptus Burl from Australia that I bought on eBay, and Yellow Birch that I got in New Jersey.










The doors are assembled as a unit and are then cut apart to make 2 doors. And the design matches the design for the end panels.



















The desigh is Greene and Greene with my cloud lifts and the Ebony pegs.

My plans are to have the white sap wood stripe across the top of all of the cabinets and all the rest to be heart wood that is pink. The veneer and the yellow birch both have a pinkish cast.

The base has not yet been created for the bottom of the base cabinet. And the drawer fronts have not yet been created. I'll probably wait until all cabinets are built and installed before I make the drawer front.

These cabinets are 24" wide and were made to match the ones that were there previously.

The finish is Conversion varnish that is a varnish that requires a catalyst just before spraying. The finish dries to allow sanding in 20 minutes so it can be recoated quickly.

These cabinets required a quart of finish so I probably need a couple more gallons before I'm finished.

I've got lots of pictures and I post some blogs of the construction and the jigs that I created. And I've got lots of building to do.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Beautiful Work! The sapwood strip really sets it off. Can't wait to see more!!

Lew


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Very nice job Karson, I like that wood profile. I know the feeling about how long some things take but what the heck.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Beautiful looking cabinets there Karson. I can't wait to see the finished project. I love the veneer. It really sets the tone for the project. Keep up the great work.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


It's comming along very nicely Karson.
Are you going to be able to move the wiring closer to the cabinet?

Bob


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Hey Buddy;

I just responded to your email, questioning the setback for a toe kick. That last picture took up the whole screen, so I thought I was looking at the front of a base cabinet. (I wondered why I was seeing Baltic Birch (?) on the side of he cabinet).

Now that I see the same picture here, but much smaller, it now makes sense.

You are doing a beautiful job. First class, top shelf, and all that. The grain match across the rails is perfect.

Not to mention a beautiful design.

WOW!

Lee


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## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Hey Karson!,,,,,,,Looks Fabtabulous! Its going to be a great looking kitchen Buddy!


----------



## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Wow, Karson, this is looking great. Thought I was getting photos from the Gamble House. If you're building your cabinets from scratch and milling your own lumber, I'm telling you, it's going to keep you busy. I've been doing the woodwork in my new house, and it's going on 5 months and I still got a ways to go. Keep us posted on the progress, I'm looking forward to seeing the whole kitchen.


----------



## kjwoodworking (Oct 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Good looking cabinets Karson, you should be proud! Good luck with the rest of your project and I can't wait to see more.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Those cabinets looks great! Keep up the great work, I really love the pegged doors!


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


i really like that you carried the design onto the side of the cabinets…beautiful wood Karson…and craftsmanship, as always…


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments. My wife wants if finished now. But I think she'll have to wait awhile. I spray outside and so I need at least some ok temp.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Very nice!!! Looks like furniture cabinets. Looks very rich. Thanks for the blog.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


That's what I was shooting for Dennis, furniture for the kitchen.


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## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


Those look awesome, keep the progress pictures coming.


----------



## Woodbear (Jan 2, 2010)

Karson said:


> *I just installed the first cabinets for the kitchen in Delaware*
> 
> I can't believe how long it has been since I posted any work on this series. The Buffet/Hutch is not completed. It's in the state that I showed last. The last post was 473 days ago.
> 
> ...


These are sweet Karson. You always think of Greene and Greene as mahogany, but I definitely like the combination of the yellow birch and eucalyptus burl along with the ebony plugs. They really set each other off. Good job. I hope one day to have some to show off. Keep up the good work.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Cabinet building continues*

Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.

I'm working on the lower cabinets, because the upper cabinets need to match placement of the lower cabinets and I'm now working myself into a corner.

That's the sink corner. Old picture. It's just to the right of the range.









So what I've accomplished is building the cabinets to the left of the range.

The range is being moved about 18" to the left so the cabinets that I'm building are about 30" longer than the cabinets that I'm replacing. The white cabinet was stuck in there when we moved into this house to give her a little additional storage space.

My wife seems to be ignoring the mess that I made of her kitchen.









The end cabinet on the new left return has the veneer and framework being placed on the two outside surfaces.









The cabinet that starts the left return will have 5 drawers, each about 5" high.









The end cabinet will have 3 drawers. A 6" 8" and 10" 









So when installed they look like this.









The return cabinet that fits against the wall is 27" wide. That is so I will have a 3" corner space on the 24" deep cabinets. I glued some homemade veneer of the Yellow Birch and glued it to the spacer pieces so that the opposing drawer will slip by the opposite drawer handle.


















I then put in a 24" cabinet that is between the return area and the stove.









I then put another 24" cabinet to the right of the range. in order to make it fit I took out an 18" cabinet that was under the sink counter top that is visible in the first picture.









Again no drawer fronts have been designed or made as of yet. I'm trying to make the lower kitchen cabinets built and useful before I spend extra time making drawer fronts.

I'm also waiting on making the upper cabinets until all of the lower ones are made and installed. My mother in law is coming in 2.5 weeks so i got a little work to go.

I did give her a little bonus tonight. I brought in a piece of Corian to cover over the open tops of the cabinets, even though she thought that the open top did have a great functionality.










The count as of now is 22 drawers under the counter surface and 2 additional sliders that will have trash containers and a pull out drawer under the sink for dish cleaning supplies.

The flowers were a little gift a couple of days ago.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Hi Karson;

Let me be the first to say your wife must be very patient, but I guess she knows how good it will look when your finished.

I can't wait to see the pics.

Lee


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Karson,

You are a glutton for punishment!! Tearing up the wife's kitchen while she is still using it! Reminds me of our kitchen project- everything went fine until the special order sink didn't arrive on schedule. Washed dishes in the bathtub for about a week!

I really like the way you incorporated the drawers at the end of the counter. Looks like it provides a lot of storage in a potentially wasted area.

Lew


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Your making some great progress. Thanks for the update, Karson.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Great job Karson. Your wife must be like mine, she has the patience of a saint.


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Your a good man, Karson… a deck and a kitchen remodel this year. I'm liking those Greene and Greene accents.

I have been looking at those levelers in the catalogues - are those the ones that the kicks clip to in the front? Excellent progress thus far


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


She has a lot of patience as long as I'm doing something on the kitchen. She keeps saying nothing else comes out of my shop until the kitchen is finished.

But then she does have a few replacement tasks - Like New deck; Like making a cane for her mother (Not started yet, but she is showing up in 2.5 weeks so something might be getting ready to jump into gear.

But then there is the Mason Dixon banquet door prize that I need to make. While I'm at it I'm making 12 or more for family gifts also. (posted as a blog later) She doesn't know about them.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Douglas: Yes. Lee Jesberger uses metal ones, I went for the cheap ones. Mine are plastic. I figure they will hold up the cabinets off the floor. The kickplate will clip in later. It is nice to level up all of the cabinets, just screw out the leg.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


When I did the veneering for the sides I put some cheap veneer (Mahogany) between my sheets of Eucalyptus. 


















You use water and a putty knife to take off the veneer tape.










You can see that on the photo of the sides of the cabinet before the Yellow Birch Greene and Green accents were attached. The Greene and Greene accents also covered up the screw holes that were used to assemble the base cabinets. The veneer sheets were 10" wide and I didn't want to waste veneer by trying to bookmatch over an area that was going to be covered by other woods.

I only used the Eucalyptus veneer in area that were going to be visable. The other veneers were put in to give me a level area to put in the faux Stile and Rail attachents.

The back of the return cabinet is 30" wide so I had to add additional veneer to my bookmatched sheets on the back. The side is two sheets of the eucalyptus veneer with the mahogany in the middle and on the edges.


----------



## Greg3G (Mar 20, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


What a project. God bless your wife…mine would have gone to her mother's by now. I probably would have built them all before I started installing any, I'm a bit of a neat freak when it comes to the kitchen…and if you have seen my shop, that's a complete polar opposite 

I really like the design. It's going to look great when you are done.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


You're making great progress. I especially like all the drawers-so much more practical than doors and shelves (in my opinion). We're finally winding down on our kitchen project; it's just been a little over three years. But then, these things take time! We women are s-o-o-o patient :~)!

Keep us posted.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Great job Karson.
You have really got a handle on that veneering.
It's going to be beauty when you get it finished.

Bob


----------



## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


Beautiful progress Karson.


----------



## decoustudio (May 4, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


good looking project Karson. A testimony to your expertise. Congrats on the progress.


----------



## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


nice work Karson …


----------



## ana72 (Nov 14, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Cabinet building continues*
> 
> Well I've still been busy building additional cabinets.
> 
> ...


I must say you were so sweet and thoughtful to make all the plans and work. Your wife is surely lucky to have you. If you need anything about bathroom and kitchen renovations (supplies and all) you can visit our site http://www.bathroomkitchenguide.com and you'll find a list of companies arranged by cities. Hope it will be of help.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*My first try at Corian*

Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.

I didn't take any pictures of the actual gluing because I wasn't sure of the amount of time I'd have as i was doing that process. Now that I have a better feel for the amount of time it takes, I'll take some assembly pictures for the rest of the counter top.

I started with the corner cabinet that is 24" X 24" and is where we currently have a microwave and toaster.

New cabinet with the old top that We've been using. The drawer fronts have not been made yet, but the cabinet is in use.










The underside of the Corian top with a 1/4" gray stripe and a 1/2" Fog stripe that matches the top surface.


















I've not put in any wooden blocks to the underside of the top as of yet. I was wanting to find out how much space that I'd have to fill. It's 1/4 + 1/2 so a 3/4" block would fill it but the ply is under 3/4 so I'll have to engineer what I use maybe MDF is the right size or some OSB board. I'll use silicone to stick to the underside of the corian top and use it at the edges to allow me to screw the top down.

The top in place temporarily.


























The wife didn't want any backsplash on this cabinet, so wall repairs will be necessary. This top is also 1 1/4" thick at the edge, normally edge treatment is 1 1/2". But we only wanted a 1/4" stripe and not a 1/2" stripe, I'm also not sure that I'd want a 1/4" strip at the bottom either. There is a seam about 3/4" in on the side of the last picture. It is not visable. The glue disolves the Corian and makes an invisable joint.

The edge was sanded with a belt sander 80 grit to make the edges of all of the surfaces even and to get the glue squeeze out off the surface. The glue squeeze out that you see on the underside pictures was also on the outside edges and it was a little rubbery, not a hard surface, but it didn't stick to the sandpaper. The sandpaper did not load up.

I used hand sanding on the edges up to 220 grit and then went to 320 and 400 on a random orbital sander. I also did the random orbital sander on the top surface with the same grits. I used a laminate trimmer router with a 1/4" quarter round to round over the edges on the front and side.

I then went to my 6" Rigid sander that has a variable speed and I used Abralon disks for the top. I bought some 180 but didn't use it since i already used up to 400 grit dry.

The Abralon disks are hook and look and have about 1/4" of foam rubber between the hook and loop and the sanding surface. I started with the 360 grit and worked up to 2000 grit. My wife wanted more of a Satin/ semi gloss surface so I didn't buy the 4000 grit disks. You can see the reflection off of the top and see the wall in the reflection. But it's not a real gloss shine.

The corian was cut on my table saw with carbide blades. I've got a sliding table so the sheet slide across quite well. It was 144" long X 30 " wide when I bought it. I took a battery operated skill saw to the store and cut the sheet in two. The longest piece was 102" and it fit in my van standing on edge. So I transported them home with no problems.

10/11/10 I've had many people ask me where I bought it. So I went looking It's Dupont's salvage building at 1001 Lambsons Ln, New Castle De 19720 I don't have there phone number, I've been unable to find it in my receipts.
I found the address on my GPS.
The Corian was bought at a DuPont salvage depot in Delaware. These sheets cost $80.00 each, which is a bargain. The color is Fog, which is a color made for Lowes and has since been discontinued. This color was not sold by any other vendor. The glue is color matched to the Corian, and DuPont said to use Dawn Beige. I bought the glue from a store that was recommended by the counter man at the DuPont salvage depot. I used maybe 1/3 of a tube on this assembly.(That was one of the questionable items that I had in my mind) I've bought 4 tubes and may need more. The price is 19.00 per tube and contains 50ml of glue. The tip is a mixing tip and the ratio of 10 to 1 comes out automatically as you press it. I bought an adaptor that allows it to fit in a regular caulking gun.

I started the glueing at 12 noon finished by 12:45, Ate some lunch with my wife and was back working on it by 1:15. I was all finished by about 3:00.

Pictures of the adapter and the mixing top will be posted in another blog.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Karson, I like the contrasts in the different wood. Great design & finish.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Karson,

Thanks for the update! I never realized you could buy Corian for the DIYer.

Lew


----------



## CorporalWilly (Jan 7, 2008)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


HHHHmmmmmm! you're giving me very expensive ideas buddy. You are going to get me in trouble. I hope you know that. I'm arleady looking for hard maple to try and build a clock with it. I hate to spend the money only to find out that I cannot see well enough to do the job. Scary huh? However, my Cargo Shipping Container job is finished for the University here and now I would like to get back to creating some science projects. I get into enough trouble just doing that. But the fact remains. You are the man when it comes to these projects of yours. I wish some of your expertise would rub off on this guy. Take care my friend. Great stuff you are doing.


----------



## fredf (Mar 29, 2008)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


I have the same question as Lew, I asked a while back and was told they woudn't sell to a dyi, tho was a wholesale outfit, was picking up Formica ordered through a lumberyard. will have to ask at lumberyard I guess,


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


The Corian is being sold by DuPont, who makes the stuff, and it's salvage. It used to be that it was only sold to licensed installers who had passed Corian certification. The reason being that DuPont warranted it for serviceability and if it cracked they repaired it. Since the patent has expired (I think) they don't have the requirement but you might still not be able to buy it.

One of LumberJock advertisers, Solid Surfaces, sell it I believe and they ship.

Lee Jesberger tells the story that he got a contract for 30 kitchens and he called about Corian. They told him that he couldn't buy it. He told them that it was 30 kitchens.

They were at his shop at 7:00 AM the next morning stating that they would work something out.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Karson,
This is great information. How soon will you be able to come and do my kitchen?!

I'm looking forward to your next installment.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


One mistake that many contractors make when handling this material is wiping it off with solvents like paint thinner or lacquer thinner. Be sure to use denatured alcohol instead. The other solvents will start breaking down the thermoplastic. Denatured alcohol can be used to wipe off pen/pencil marks and excess caulk.

You may know this, but I am sort of thinking out loud for the others. Using solvents for wiping tops down is a very common practice and a mistake for solid surface materials.

The work looks great!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip Todd. I guess that I should state that I used lacquar thinner to clean off the surface prior to glueing. So I guess I better leave enough material back so I can make another one if necessary.

I'll go with alcohol next time.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Karson,

I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. If it does anything it takes a long time. The plastic may slightly turn yellowed and get alligator cracks or crazing in it. There is a big difference between wiping the surface with a dampened rag and flooding the surface too. I have seen the latter and it just makes me pull my crew-cut hair out.

The other point you make about using silicone is a good one. Construction adhesive will eat the plastic over time too. I have personally seen that one.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Todd: I only used a small amount and on the back where the add-on pieces were glued on. I didn't use it on the top surface. So maybe I'll be ok. But then again I'll have a lot left over, because I had to go back and purchase a third sheet because i cut the others 5" too short in my parking lot cutting.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Talked to my wife and suggested that this might be an opportunity to make changes if she wants. She now wants a different profile on the edge So this will be a practice piece which I considered when I started it.

I knew that it was the smallest piece and so it's a great size to try first.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


I applaud your work and willingness to try this product. I think it makes nice tops.

I have to say that the big thing is to wear a dust mask when milling. This stuff is wicked. I don't particularly miss handling it at all.

When I sub it out, I don't even handle it for liability reasons. It is like glass and can snap if not handled or supported properly. That is in bigger tops, not like the one you have there.

My last bathroom had a solid surface top with built-in sink and it is gorgeous.

Another thing that you cannot use is plumber's putty. The petroleum base in plumbers putty will break the plastic down over time too. That is a common mistake that I have seen many times. The plastic turns orange and brown around the drain. It becomes brittle and fractures spider web out from the drain.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Any other tips that you are aware of are appreciated. I might not have thought about the plumbers putty. I'm putting in a Corian undermount sink also, and putty could have been something that i would have used.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Lots of clamps are always in order for the glue ups.

Use denatured alcohol for the wiping down in any situation.

Wear a dust mask.

Working time is limited for glue-ups.

For bigger pieces you have to get the substrate under it or you stand a chance of cracking it.

Handle it like a sheet of glass, the same principles apply.

The cabinets have to be completely in plane with one another or you stand a good chance of it snapping once it is set into place. I have been witness to this a couple of times and fortunately it was not my fault or my job.

Relax while working with it. Don't let these things freak you out.


----------



## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys for a lot of great info. I can get Corian or a similar product from McKillican American and had no idea how to handle or work with it. You two probably just saved me a bunch of headaches.


----------



## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


You two probably just saved a number of us a bunch of headaches.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update, Karson. I enjoy watching your progress.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


I told my wife if she wanted any changes to the top she better make them now. She said that she wanted a different edge than just a round over.

She wanted an Ogee cut.

I checked the router bits and came up with the standard Ogee. I didn't want to use a router table bit because i didn't want to swing the counter top over a router table. So this bit is more like a base cut that you'd put on a case. An Ogee that is more sweeping would be a 2 1/2" bit and would't be safe for me to use on a hand router.

So here is the cut that she got.










She thought the edges were very sharp so i used some 320 and 400 grit to soften the edges. It has not been polished with the wet sanding that I did on the top. It will get there when I get on with more counter top.


----------



## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


...and what i hate is the stuff is just friggin heavy. Oh my poor back.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Yes it is heavy. Just a couple of ounces under plate steel.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...












The cabinet with drawer fronts.


----------



## Mitch12 (Apr 25, 2011)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Nice job!

I especially like the lighter colored drawers as opposed to the top cabnets! I am always doing my own remodeling, I love it, but it also saves money.

Unfortunately, I don't have time, with work, to mess with my bathroom design. Im going to look for bathroom design maryland contractor to see if I can't find a solid contractor.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Mitch: The place where I bought the Corian doesn't sell it anmore except in Detroit (I think) The top edge is the sapwood from the Yellow Birch lumber. The sides and bottom is the heart wood from the same Yellow Birch.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Karson said:


> *My first try at Corian*
> 
> Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets.
> 
> ...


Karson, that looks good.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*The Corian installation continues.*

Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.

The glue tube with two separate compartments, One for the fill material and the second for the catalyst. The plunger is part of the adapter kit that allows it to be used in a regular caulking gun. Your option is this, or a $80.00 to $150.00 gun. I opted for the $4.00 part.










The small plastic piece beside it is an adapter that allows it to be used in a regular caulking gun.










Somewhere in my pressing the plunger i split the plastic piece so I wrapped it with Duck Tape. A real *********************************** thing to do.










The tip that is attached to the front of the cement cylinder has a waffle pattern that mixes the two products together.










Now on to today's entry.

I took a piece of Corian and brought it into the house to sit on top of the base cabinets so my wife would have some place to put things.

She said that she wanted a rounded end. So i took a pencil and drew the curve on the end of the Corian. I took a jig saw and cut it off.










I said is this what you want. She replied yes.

I made a 1/4" mdf pattern of the curve and sanded it smooth so that it would be a router template to put the edge on the Corian.










So I cut the edge with a jig saw to within 1/8" of the line and then I used the router template to cut the edge of the top piece of Corian.

I then started cutting small pieces to make the edge.










Then sense kicked in and I figured out that I didn't want to glue in all of those small pieces.

So I glued on a big rectangle piece on the end, and the edge banding around the edges.


























I then started on the smaller piece of Corian that would be attached to the large surface. Drew my line.










Started to cut it with a Ryobi Lithium Battery skill saw.










The blade is quite thin and cuts a great cut to break down the Corian into manageable sizes. This is what I used at the salvage depot when I bought the Corian.

I then cut it on my table saw to 25 1/2" square.










Getting ready to glue the edges on the small piece but I also needed to make a gluing brace to join the two pieces of Corian together. This is a chunk of Corian the goes across the seam so that both surfaces will be glued to it. Here I'm glueing it to the large counter top.










Now the for real glueing. I found out that you need to practice the glueing process before you open the cement, because that is not the time to go get the clamps that you need. My practice run noticed that I was tipping the Corian glue brace and I needed a better bonding clamp. Therefore I used Bessie clamps.










I then glued the edges on the small piece.










I only need edges on two sides. I don't need any on the back nor on the side that is attached to the large counter top.

While the glue was setting up I started to work the edges on the large surface that was glued up last night.

I turned it over and this is the view of the large pieces that i glued on the edge.










I cut to within 1/8" with the jig saw.










I then used the router to trim up the lower pieces to match the previous cut edge.

It was at this point that Greg3G showed up with his wife from W. Virginia. So we had a little visit. After he left I didn't take any more pictures but what I did was clean up all of the edges by using a piece of 1/4" Corian as a straight edge and used a pattern router bit to clean up all of the edges instead of using a belt sander. It's faster with a router. I also used the MDF pattern of the end and trimmed it back another 1/16" to clean up some glue. Hand sanded the edges with 100 grit sandpaper to get rid of any router divots.

I then carried it into the house to see how it fit in its intended spot. The two pieces are not glued together yet.


















The edges are still square and have not had the rounder over edge put on it. I'll wait until the two pieces are glued together so that the final edge cuts can be made. The mating edges where they need to be jointed are a perfect fit. It should be able to come together with no visible seam.

That's tomorrows work.

I bought 4 tubes of glue, I've used 3 so I will need somemore. The tips are a throw away piece, because once its been used, you can't clean out the glue. You throw it away and start with a new tip. I got 1 tips with each tube. I bought 4 extra. So my tip supply is good for now. You get all the pieces that need glue ready, before you start. You don't say I'll glue these up and then get these ready to glue later. The tube can be resealed so you don't lose the rest of the tube, just the tip, $1.50 each.

One thing that Lee Jesberger told me is this stuff is messy. He is right. Dust everywhere in the shop from the table saw cutting. Everything else has been done outside on sawhorses. and there is non-biodegradable plastic everywhere.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Karson,

Really looking good! Thanks for all of the helpful information.

How did you learn to work with the Corian? Is there a web site or DVD that provides information?

Lew


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Great blog Karson. The cabinet is coming along well. I like that cordless saw.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Looks like your gettin it done Karson! Doing a great job, Enjoyed the blog. Thanks for the post.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


You really have nerves of steel Karson.
A mistake with this material and it's coal in your sock at X-mas.
Nice job! -
Shows off your years of experience very well.

Bob


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


It looks like you've gone pro!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


I found one web site that had a few paragraphs on how to work with this stuff. Everything else is using wood techniques on some plastic. No classes, I figure that this stuff is repairable. I've got one void where two pieces didn't come together when I was putting on the edge. It's a 1/8" void.

I'll make a tapered piece and then next time I've got the glue open, I'll drive it into place and then clean up the edge by hand.

I have worked with plastic before. I took a course in college that was some plastic, and graphic arts. So I've done some plastic work about 48 years ago. So finishing and polishing are a couple of technques that I've tried before. But, Corian this is the first time.

Besides that I'm cheap. Anything that I can do myself and not have to bring in "An Expert" is the way I go. If I fail then I'll go with the expert. Haven't had to do that yet. So welding, wood work, decks, kitchen cabinets, counter tops. Try it, before you hire someone else to do it.


----------



## jim1953 (Nov 18, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Looking Good Keep It Up


----------



## Greg3G (Mar 20, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


I took the afternoon and drove out to see Karson today. I needed some more 1/4 ambrosa stock and my bandsaw was giving me fits. When I turned into the drive to Karson's workshop, there he was, covered head to toe in Corian dust. I had brought my wife along and after introductions and a warm greeting, Karson gave us a tour of the progress of his kitchen remodel. I must say, the pictures he has posted doesn't due justice to them. The design and wood selection is outstanding. I was having a hard time describing the design to my wife. Now thanks to Karson, it looks like I may be starting a new set of cabinets soon. We stayed maybe an hour or so…Karson even shared some persimions from the trees out behind the Guild's toy shop. It was my wife's first time to taste them and she loved them. All in all, we had a great time with Karson and his wife. The kitchen is coming along well and I have every confidence that he will meet the Mother-in-Law deadline. Thanks again Karson, we'll see you again soon.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Greg my wife said that she had a good time talking with your wife, while we were wood shopping. Glad you made it down again. I'll have to recipiate it sometime.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Hi Karson;

Looks like things are coming along nicely!

I'm anxious to see it completed almost as much as you!

Lee


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Karson,

It certainly is generous of you to share your expertise with all of us. You're living proof that being cheap-frugality sounds a little nicer -is really an asset! It has taught me much of what I know, too!


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


I have to say I think I will pay the instal priceand stick with woodworking. Your a real brave man, looks good though to take on that kind of project.


----------



## Jacqueline (Sep 21, 2011)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues.*
> 
> Before we get started, I stated in the previous blog that I'd let you see the cement tube that is used to bond the Corian pieces together.
> 
> ...


Hi Karson, I just found your post because we, too, happened upon several great pieces of Corian we are going to incorporate into our ongoing house remodel. $1 per square foot, but how to do it?! Found your post and was just what I needed- will be sharing with the husband- we'll be getting starting this weekend on a two week push over "vacation." Thanks for the great specifics!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*The Corian installation continues #3.*

Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)

I set up the Corian on my sawhorses in the driveway and pre set all of the clamp that I'd need to hold the pieces while the glue dried.


















The long MDF strips were to keep the surface from bowing while the two pipe clamps pulled the seam together. A piece of maple was put on the edge to keep the pipe clamps from breaking off any pieces on the edge.

I then put on the glue and clamped it together.










The seam seemed to have some glue pop through the top surface, which is what I wanted.

I then took some time to make a Router Offset Jig to allow me to route the edges better.


After the glue setup I took off all of the clamps.


















The seam had some flow out. You need that to get an invisible seam when finishing it.

I took a 100 grit random orbital sander to the top to clean up the glue line. It was 80% a great job, and 20% pretty good. I can tell where the seam is but others might not be able to.










I tool my new offset jig and started to route the edges.



























I cleaned it all off and random orbital sanded 100 grit the whole surface, then 220, then 320 and final 400. This was all a dry sand with regular sandpaper.

I then dug out the Ridged 6" random orbital sander and used my Abralon sandpaper which is hook and loop mounted to 1/4" foam and then a micro mesh sanding surface.










I went through 360 grit, 500 grit, 1000 grit and finally 2000 grit. My wife didn't want a super polished surface so I didn't buy the 4000 grit discs. I used water with a little dish soap to make a foam, I wiped off the surface with clean paper towels between grits.

I didn't do the edges, I'll do them by hand. I didn't want to use a sander on the edge.

I then turned it over.










You can now see the glue block that is used to glue the two pieces of Corian together. It is a piece of Corian that is glued to one piece let dry and then glue the 2nd piece in place. This allows for edge matching on the two pieces.

I'm now going to put in the filler blocks which will allow the counter top to rest on my base cabinets. I used 3/4" MDF. Put it around all of the edges and across the middle where it matched 2 joined cabinets.

When my wife got home, we transported it to the house for the last? time. We wheeled it to the front door on a 2 wheel dolly, put it on top of a rug and drug it into the kitchen.

it was placed in place on top of the cabinets.


















You can see a small amount of gloss in the reflection of the coffee pot.

The edge is a Ogee cut. It has not yet been sanded or polished. I'll do all of that by hand, instead of watching TV.










Base cabinet for the sink to be assembled, Old cabinet to be removed, New one put in its place, new disk washer to be installed, and then probably old top back on so she can use the sink while I do the Corian on sink cutout and Corian sink.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Great result Karson. The stripe on the edge really sets it off.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Thanks Grumpy. We plan on using the gray stripe material for the back splash behind the stove.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Beautiful Job, Karson!!

Next trip to Ocean City- maybe I could get a peek at this!

Lew


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Great job Karson. I've never tried solid surface except in some of my turnings. But I may try it when we get started on our kitchen cabinets. How much did you save by doing it all yourself?


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Not a problem Lew. Looking forward to it.

Cabinetmaster; I've never priced a counter top, but here are my costs.

3 sheets of Corian at $80.00 a sheet at Dupont Salvage Outlet. 1/2" thick 144" long 30" wide 30 Sq Ft per sheet. I only needed 2 but I cut too short at the outlet store so a third sheet was needed.
2 sheets of gray corian at $60.00 1/4' thick 30" X 8'
A Corian kitchen sink $80.00.
4 tubes of glue at $16.00 apiece. I'm going back tomorrow to buy 4 more
A Kit to allow the glue to be used in a regular caulking gun.

A router bit that I had, but new maybe 35.00 to replace
Maybe a resharpening of my saw blade.

At this point I don't know if the Corian is any more asbrasive than wood.

I didn't add it up, but I figure around $500.00. I would guess 4K or so maybe more, maybe less to replace it with a cabinet shop job. Final surface area being covered with Corian is about 60 Sq Ft

I found a Corian Estimator at a Dupont site and they say between $4,200 and $5,800. That just for the top, not the cabinets also.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Hey Buddy;

You are the MAN!

Nice work, and a great set of photos.

Lee


----------



## Texasgaloot (Apr 8, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Corian installation continues #3.*
> 
> Well I took the counter top back out to the driveway today to glue the two pieces together. (See previous Blog in this series)
> 
> ...


Like Lee said…

Impressive.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Continuing with the base cabinets*

I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.


















The sink is not normally mounted upside down in the bottom of the cabinet. I had it here to find the correct positioning to cut the hole in the counter top.

This is sitting in the kitchen in front of the cabinet being replaced.










I ripped out the old cabinet. Had to remove a disposal, dishwasher, and water line to refrigerator.


















I mounted a 12" cabinet that will be used to store cooking sheets. The drawers have not yet been made. i ran out of Baltic Birch.










I then put in the base cabinet.


















Now on to the Corian counter top with the sink.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


its coming along…looking good…


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


Karson,

No sink and no stove. Looks like you and the Mrs. will be eating out for awhile! Maybe there was a method in her madness when she asked you to redo the kitchen :^)

Lew


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


Yes Lew it was pizza tonight. You'd think I could at least get a steak.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


You're right, Karson. With all the money you're saving, you should be eating steak! You're doing a great job.


----------



## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


You have taken on an enormous project. So far it looks great. But, I wouldn't expect less from you.


----------



## oldskoolmodder (Apr 28, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


One day I'd like to take on a job like that. Looks good so far.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


Hey buddy;

It's looking good so far… no surprise there though.

How do you like the feet?

Lee


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


Starting to take shape Karson, looking good.


----------



## lance (Jun 25, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Continuing with the base cabinets*
> 
> I built the base cabinet where the sink would go. It's the same size as the one that is being replaced with the exception that the existing cabinet didn't go into the corner. It stopped just past the sink. I guess cost cutting on the previous owner.
> 
> ...


Looking real good.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*

Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.










I cut the straight lines using the battery operated skill saw, and the corners with a jig saw.










I used hot melt glue and put down wooden blocks so that the sink could be placed in the correct position and be able to placed in position fast.










To take the blocks off you just whack them with a hammer (Sideways).










I write on the bottom the positioning of the extra parts to be put on. The edging goes on the front and on the stove side.










Turn the counter top over and the sink didn't fall on the ground. So far so good.


















When doing routing of Corian you get many, many pieces of plastic that look like Ivory Soap Flakes.









I did a round over of the Corian on the inside of the sink edge.









I turned the counter top over and put on the drop edge and all of the other pieces of bracing.

I had my wife come over to the shop and help me turn over the piece one more time. We started to pick it up using the corner as the starting to lift place. As soon as we did that I stopped and said that we can't do that it will crack. 2 seconds later we did it again and it broke.

I guess that short term memory failed. My wife started to think of all of the possibilities, Buy a new piece of Corian, Buy a new sink, Start over. (And this was all within 5 seconds of it breaking). Todd said handle like glass and I guess he was right. Thanks Todd for the insite or I wouldn't have even said, "Don't do that, or it will break!" I guess that you should have told me twice. But, experience is a great teacher.

My craftsman/creator kicked in and I grabbed the tube of glue and glued the crack line and put my 10' pipe clamps that were last used for my deck to pull the pieces together.


















I came into the house to feel very dejected.

Two hours later I went back and found that the glue had all hardened, I cleaned up the edges, Put on the Ogee edge, sanded and polished to 2000 grit.

Brought it into the house and installed it.


















The crack is not visible. But, we were very careful putting it in place, making sure that the end was always supported.

Now for the return and installing the plumbing, dishwasher and sink.

Mother-in-law in three days, I may make it yet. At least functional.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Well, you did the right thing.

These things happen, even to the pro's. One of the good things about Corian is that if the snap is pretty clean, it will repair very nicely. After a bit of worry and sweat on the brow, nobody will know anything ever happened.

Your work flow looks pro and the project does too.

The true face of a craftsman is seen under those times of great pressure and challenge. You pulled off the repair like a true craftsman for sure.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


There has been blood, sweat and tears in this job. Thanks for the support Todd.


----------



## CorporalWilly (Jan 7, 2008)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Great job as usual and as expected. Make sure you are wearing a dust mask buddy. Many things we have used in the past on construction jobs were found out to be not so good for your health. Here is where an ounce of prevention is well worth a pound of cure. It is not the particles you see that fall to the ground but the ones that stay air borne and that are tiny enough to by inhaled that cause problems down the line. Beautuf job my friend.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Thanks Richard. I appreciate your support in my projects also.


----------



## Greg3G (Mar 20, 2007)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Its looking like a professional job Karson, perhaps a second career in the works. Great recovery. Seems to be progressing well. My wife wants me to let her know when you post the fininshed project, I guess she is working up ideas for later, thanks buddy.


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Still on schedule and on budget, Looks great Karson. I remember what little Corian I worked with created a horrible racket when being power planed and cut and routed. Add hearing protection to the dust collection/filtration safety reminders.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Scott I've never thought about planing it. It makes enough mess with the router and saw and sanders. The only thing that isn't messy is doing the wet/dry finish polishing when I use soapy water. The sander doesn't fling it all over the place and it cleans up with a bunch of paper towels.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Don't worry about the minor setback with the breakage Karson. I bet you will still do it cheaper than have someone in to do it for you. Looking good.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Great save, Karson.

I'm glad you clarified the "just whack them with a hammer (*Sideways*)," or that could be the next necessary save for one of your LumberJock students 

It seems to me like you could have a couple of "all-nighters" coming up. But then you're probably a whole lot faster than I am!

Keep up the good work. We're really enjoying (and learning), thanks to this blog.


----------



## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


I am really impressed with your ambition and your workmanship. You are setting a high standard for the rest of us. Thanks for sharing all. It is instructive to see a good recovery from an "Oh Shoot" moment.


----------



## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Well I for one am glad to see you didn't get carried away. I half expected you to veneer the underside with Currly Mohatgan Cheta Wood and inlay the edge reconstituted emeralds. Great job as always!


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


Hey Buddy;

Been there, done that. No "T" shirt, and certainly no pictures. I deny it ever having happened.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

You're doing a great job, my friend!

Lee


----------



## pyromedic602 (Feb 20, 2008)

Karson said:


> *More Corian work. And, yes Todd was right it is just like glass*
> 
> Well the base cabinet is in place and the position of the sink was determined so I drew an outline of the sink and I put a 3/4" line around the inside.
> 
> ...


looking great. I have picked up on a lot of lessons, can't wait to see more.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Finishing the Corian, I wish.*

After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.

It was planned, but it doesn't make it any easier.










Once that hole is there, there is no going back.

So for the next 3 hours, I put in the faucet.










Hooked up the new Dish Washer.










And put in the cabinet that will hold the trash containers.

And what do you get. A plumbing nightmare. The drains from the two sinks are at a different height. and are a different height from the original sink. The water line for the dishwasher wouldn't fit so a new flexible hose was used. The drain line for the dish washer was too short to fit the fitting on the disposal. So the disposal had to be turned 90 deg. and then all of the waste lines had to be put together.

I was only able to make everything fit by using 2 flexible drain pipes. Of course the hot and cold water lines had to be replaced for the sink because they were all different lengths.

So here is the view. Only use one eye.










So that was all last night. I went to bed tired. I got up this morning with my wife telling me that she doesn't like the new faucet. Of course the hole is already there. Our options are cut down. She wanted a higher /taller faucet. I knew she did, and I was surprised when she picked the one that she did. Maybe she was going for the price!

She went to the store and I went outside to work on the last piece of Corian. This will be the return that goes over the dishwasher.

It's small 43" X 25 1/2". The only thing that is a little different from the one that was removed is it's longer, because my base cabinets are 4" longer.










This is the space cadet that has been doing all of the work. Hearing protection, Dust protection, Safety glasses and a full Tyvek Haz-Mat suit. It was 32 deg this morning in the driveway and the Tyvek suit keeps me warm. I'd hate to use it during the summer.

First I trim off the lower pieces to be flush with the top surface. I use a pattern router bit with the bearing on the top.










I trim off the support pieces that level up the Corian top to the cabinets.


















I then do all of the Ogee profile, sand it and polish it and bring it into the house.










Visible is the glue block that supports the glue line and bonds the two separate pieces together.

Also visible is the wooden blocks that I've put on the surface with hot melt glue. I put a square against the wall so that all of the blocks would be straight in line with the glue line and each other.

I spread the glue and slid the return piece into position. And I put on the clamps.










You can see the glue squeeze out that is required. This is not woodworking. You want the squeeze out that that tells you the the seam is not glue starved.

You let everything harden, about 2 hours. I take off the clamps.


















I sand the seam with 80 grit, 220 grit, and wet/dry Abalon sheets at 360, 500, 1000 and 2000. The Abalon sheets were used with soapy water.










I did a little fancy routing and I had to cut into the molding so that the Corian top would fit in.










We bought the new faucet so I guess I'll go now and complete it.

Tomorrow is Mother-in-law day so I'll be offline for about a week.

Have a great week.

Back again. I got the new faucet installed. it wasn't too bad, same MFG. but a couple of different connections.










I'm telling my mother-in-law that we are going for the new open look, so you can always see what is in the cabinets. She might accept that. I know my wife won't.


----------



## ZachM (Apr 3, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Looks nice. That flexible tubing wouldn't work for me though, I push so much food down the drain i know stuff would get stuck.

Was it hard to get the corian, i though it was only sold to counter top dealers directly, or is that not true?


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


WOW! Great Blog Karson. Thats for posting.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. We are on a septic system and I won't let my wife use the garbage disposal. But she said it's needed for resale. I was going to leave it out.

ZachM I mentioned in one of the earlier blogs on the Corian that I bought this stuff at a DuPont Salvage depot. DuPont's headquarters are in Delaware and all of their salvage stuff and plants parts, fans, desks are sold in this outlet.

They also carry 15 different kinds of Corian. 7 kinds at $80.00 a sheet 12' X 30" or 30 Sq Ft. and 8 kinds at $135.00 a sheet. The higher priced ones are more of a premium grade. The have some sinks (This is one of them) and a bunch of bathroom vanity now. When they get low they call and they send another truck load. They never know what they'll get.
They had a few laptops the last time I was there for $200.00 so you never know. But, it's 85 miles from me.

There is an advertiser on LumberJocks that sells Corian and other solid surface materials. So it's not limited any more. But, they don't sell it at Big orange or big blue. Even though the color that we selected was Fog that was made for Lowes and only sold by Lowes installers. It's now a discontinued color.

I found it on Craigs List and kept the phone # for about 6 months until I started the kitchen project and we went up and made our selection. We went for the $80.00 version but when I went back 2 weeks later they had some at the $135.00 price which I believe my wife would have jumped at. It was a mother of pearl style.

I have seen Corian installers there and they are going to make a killing on the price over what they'd have to pay wholesale.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


32 deg here too Karson but thats F. Just as well it's heading to winter with that gear on. Great post on the kitchen, looks like things are coming to a close.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


wow, that must have been some really fun plumbing to do! lol!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Karson, buddy, you deserve a medal!! All this for a Mother-in-law visit!

The most my wife ever made me do was change all of the door knobs and hinges because they were no longer shiny.

Lew


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Lew: I didn't do this for the mother-in-law visit, But I did want to get all of the base cabinets installed and with the counter top.

The drawers are hard to open because there are no knobs on them. maybe I'll do that tomorrow morning. My wife is now leaving all of the drawers open so they are easier to open.

They are a self closing version so they are hard for the first 2 inches.


----------



## itsme_timd (Nov 29, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


This is looking great Karson, I'll need to keep these notes for when I do my kitchen upgrade. Plus - I get to look forward to the cool outfit! ;-) Enjoy the mother-in-law time.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Hi Karson,

Nice suit!

The corian work looks like you've been doing it for years!.

Those flexible parts on your drain line may give you some problems, since you have a garbage disposal. The "ribs" have a tendency to catch debris. Let's hope for the best on that.

Lee


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments on the flex pipe. I'll redesign using some solid pipe. But like i said the disposal is not used by us except for the water dump for the dish washer.


----------



## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Karson,
I am loving this blog that you are doing. I was showing SWMBO the Corian coutners and it now looks like that is what she has planned for me when I redo our kitchen.

If I may ask, what kind of sink is that? I love the little piece on the side.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


The sink is a Corian sink. We just happened to find it at the outlet. If we hadn't flound it then I'd probably just do the pattern using a plunge router and cut the groves into the Corian.

I would make a tapered ramp that goes downhill to the sink and as the router goes down the ramp it would cut a deeper and deeper groove. It would be like cutting flutes in a column.

You could make just one flute in your pattern and keep glueing the mold on with hot melt glue. It really sticks well and you have to whack it to get it to free up.

I'm glad that I'm helping others to see some options. on counter tops.

The homemaker/handyman/LumberJock can try lots of things that you might not want to pay someone else to do. Their labor rate is probably higher than what you calculate for your time.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Karson,

As a professional remodeler I would say get a pro plumber in to straighten out your plumbing. I have seen a lot over the years and that looks like trouble waiting to happen. You have definitely saved enough so far to get a plumber in on that.

At this point the access is very good and it will cost less to have the work done properly and avoid any damage that may occur from failure in the future.

It is a misconception about garbage disposals being bad for the septic system. A *healthy* septic system can handle it just fine.

One of the worst things for an appliance like the garbage disposal, is to not use it. They actually function better for longer if they are used. Pasta is the worst thing to put in them as it just gums up, but in general there is no problem with using the disposal on a septic system.


----------



## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Karson. I just wanted to let you know I'd been here.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Karson, That is a great job you are doing there. Does this place ship out of their outlet store? I am planning a kitchen remodel and I would sure love to do the corian thing myself. It looks like it could be simple enough for me to handle.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


I don't know, but I don't believe that they ship. They call the place cash and carry.


----------



## lance (Jun 25, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Finishing the Corian, I wish.*
> 
> After I got the counter top in I did the thing which makes your heart beat fast. I cut a hole in the top of the sink.
> 
> ...


Very nice. Keep up the good work, Xmas will be here soon.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*The Veneering gets going again*

Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.

I'd built the base cabinets and installed them in earlier blogs and it was time to get the drawer fronts created.

Let me say this, "My wife is a trooper, she is willing to live with the mess (begrudgingly), but she still puts food on the table and doesn't make me take her out to eat until it's finished.

I started the veneering. I cut plywood that would cover a complete cabinet - all drawers. That way I could do the veneer matching and sequencing that was required. I knew that my design of the drawers would mean that the entire drawer front was not covered in my designed veneer and so i was able to fill in the edges and the pieces between the drawers with mahogany veneer. The regular veneer is Eucalyptus Burl veneer. I bought it about 6 years ago.

This would be the drawer fronts on a 4 drawer cabinet.










This was the back (inside) of the drawer fronts that will never be seen by anyone. Normally you use backer veneer, but to me that would mean buying some more so i used some maple veneer that I already had. This was quilted maple.










Then the drawer fronts are all separated into their individual pieces. I marked on the back the cabinet number and the drawer number so that I would be able to get them installed in the correct sequence on the cabinet.








!

It was in the middle of the winter time and so I moved to the bathroom of the shop which I keep heated. I set up a small work surface on the laundry sink that is in the bathroom.










The strips are Yellow Birch and are about 1/16" thick. I cut them on my bandsaw and sanded them on my thickness sander.

The clamps are rubber bands cut from truck tubes that I got free from a local tire repair shop. Why they would keep old blown out tubes are outside my realm or wondering, but I'm glad they had them and I got them free.

Here's my blog on these clamps

Here are the edge banding on the drawer fronts.










The edge banding could be installed on both ends at the same time, but you could only do one side at a time. So it became, do one edge then trim, do the other edge then trim, do both ends.

The trimming was first started on the router table, but I was experiencing some chip out so i went to the table saw to finish them all.










I them made my jigs for doing the cloud lifts for the drawer fronts. these were 1/2" mdf with 1/4" mdf as the support base.










The drawer applique would be installed in the jib and I would draw the cut lines so that it could be cut down.










The piece would be trimmed on the bandsaw to almost the final dimension.










I used a top bearing 15 deg router bit to trim to the final size.










I used double faced tape to hold the pieces so that they could be trimmed to final size.


















In a couple of cases the tape didn't hold.










But when cutout and installed they came out great.

I used sapwood on the top piece and heart wood on the bottom and the sides. The edge banding also followed the same rules.










The ends of the top and bottom pieces also needed to have the 15 deg cut also. I made another jig to hold the pieces for trimming.


















The applique covered over the mahogany veneer that was placed around the edges of the veneered up pieces.










I used paper clamps to hold the pieces while glueing.










And also spring clamps.









The pegs for the drawer fronts were made with Blackwood. 3/8" square










The holes were cut with a mortise machine.










Installed in the fronts.










Now the drawers fronts are semi complete.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


looks great… very inspiring all the steps and processes that needs to be done to get the end result… something new every day


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Very nice blog , Karson ….that quilted maple is gorgeous and now seen worldwide : )


----------



## Workbench_Warrior (Jun 29, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Well Karson glad your not slacking off lol. I know exactly what you mean it is a lot of work I completely redid my kitchen, bath, hallways, stairs and living room and still trying to get all the trim and finish work done. But your work is outstanding looks like it will be a better homes cover kitchen when your done. Hang in there. Now get back to work!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Karson,

Thanks for the update!!!

I see that box of paper clip/clamps came in handy!!

Lew


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


You're going to have a beautiful kitchen with the Greene & Greene influence.

That's what I call Green living with an E.


----------



## jeffthewoodwacker (Dec 26, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Karson, very detailed and interesting blog. I really like the quilted maple. Your wife will really enjoy her new kitchen.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


i read this second…amazing steps…


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Hey Karson
Looks great good details and super blog


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments. I've got more of that Maple veneer so It's not all gone. I just need to find a project where it will be in the fore front.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Wow, great looking drawer fronts. Great blog too. Your kitchen will look great when done.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Looking good Karson. Good to see some Aussie Eucalypt.


----------



## TheQueTip (Jul 22, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The Veneering gets going again*
> 
> Well it's been 232 days since I last posted on my Kitchen remodel. It's not that I haven't done any work. It's just that I haven't posted.
> 
> ...


Your end results are looking good. After just completing a kitchen cabinet project in March, I 'feel your pain' in all the steps and processes that it takes to complete an effort of this much detail. Hang in there, all 'good things' come to an end.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*The drawer fronts*

Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.

This is the back that will be screwed up to the drawer and so it will never be seen again. So here is your last chance. It's quilted maple veneer.










I used it because it was big and i had a lot of it and I wasn't sure that I'd ever use it so now some is gone.

I can't believe that I never took a picture of the drawers being sprayed. But, here they are installed. on the drawers.

The 5 drawer cabinet in the back of the island.










The 3 drawer cabinet in the island. These drawers required book matching veneer on each of the drawers.










The 4 drawer to the right of the island and left of the range.










The 4 drawer cabinet to the right of the range.










The cabinet to the right still doesn't have drawers made.

The 3 drawer cabinet beside the refrigerator.










19 drawer fronts all installed. The top drawer is the same size on all cabinets with the exception of the 5 drawer cabinet. The 4 drawer cabinet have all drawers the same size. The 3 drawer cabinets have drawers of approx 7", 10" and 12".

So now I made a jig to drill the holes for the drawer pulls.










The jig is mounted on top of the drawer front and centered on the drawer.










All drilling is from the front.

The drawer handles are made to match the cabinet and drawer fronts. They are Yellow Birch heart wood for the mount and sapwood for the handle.










These drawer pulls are like the pulls that Darrell Peart is using on his cabinets that he posted here on LumberJocks.



I asked Darrell about the pulls and he referred me to James Krenov

The pulls are shown on one of his cabinets in this video.

http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f8/823619053

Smitty also posted this on LumberJocks and he had the pulls that I liked.


Here is a piece made by Bibb



So I made the pulls. They are 1 1/8" high 1 1/4" wide and 13/16" thick. The rod between them is 7/16" and was cut with a doweling jig. I thought I'd posted it before but couldn't find it so I guess I'll have to make a new post or review.

The pulls had a pilot holes drilled in the back with the same hole spacing as the drawer front spacing. The jig that I used to drill the holes also Set the spacing for the mount blocks.

The first one mounted.










I ratchet drill to put in the hex head screws.










Drilling the holes in the drawer fronts.










The 5 drawer cabinet in the back of the island.










The 3 drawer cabinet.










And the 4 drawer cabinet.










The 4 drawer cabinet to the right of the range.










The drawer pull up close.










19 drawer pulls installed.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


This is sacrilege, quilted maple gone missing… lol. luckily the fronts make up for it  looks great! love the wooden hardware.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


The cabinets came out beautifully, Karson!!

Bet the Mrs. is happy to be using her new kitchen.

Lew


----------



## Workbench_Warrior (Jun 29, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Quilted maple veneer covered up say it ain't so Karson! As I said before great work and unique as well, you sure can't buy drawers with unseen quilted maple veneer lol.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


She is definitelly happy to be able to open the drawers. She usually just left them open and walked around them. She said that a couple of times she grabbed the sides of the drawer to pull them open and then remembered that she now had a drawer pull.

Pavlov was right again.
For those of you who have never heard of Pavlov do a search for Pavlov's dog.


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Beautiful drawers. And, I'll add my dismay to the quilted maple on the backs. I'm guessing the Mrs. is rather pleased.


----------



## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Very very nice Karson! Your skill shows!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. I appreciate it.

There were 32 sheets of that veneer in the flitch. I used maybe 8 - 10 and they had some cracks that would have been hard to join or patch. Don't worry about the missing veneer, I've got lots more of that stuff.

This came in a package that had around 700 sq ft of maple veneer. I used around 30 Sq Ft.


----------



## depictureboy (Jun 5, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


those are really nice karson…someday maybe my wife will let me build her stuff.


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


I like your cabinetry also found the JK video very moving especially when he talked of his wife he reminded me of my father in law.A truly wonderful simplistic ideology I love that.Thanks for posting .Alistair


----------



## dustyal (Nov 19, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


... okay… very nicely done… but how can you find anything in those 19 drawers? I have a little wet bar with 5 drawers and 3 doors… can't find a thing on first try. lol Thanks for bringing the fronts and the jigs to our meeting show and tell… they really look good finished with the drawer pulls in place.


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


*Beautiful!* 
But your going to end up with a stiff neck looking at the quilted maple.<O}#


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Al I use "1" silverware. Top drawer, I let her worry about the others.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


exelent work ,karson .
i can't believe how much work you did,
while i took a nap !

thats why you are the master .


----------



## griff (Feb 6, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Great looking cabinets Karson, Very good build.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


very nice….


----------



## bowyer (Feb 6, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Wonderful Job Karson!! Those pulls are very sharp

Rick


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


i think i would want to pull the drawers out just to look at the maple…...very nice job..its just beautiful…i hope your not planning on moving again…i saw the last kitchen work you did, and you sold the house…...dont know if i could have done that…....great job karson…..grizzman


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliments. But my best critic and support like it also.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


hey there karson..i think i noticed alot of finger prints on that microwave…and a orange under one cabinet…you better get to cleaning now that the wood work is done….har…...i just love the cabinets..grizzman


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


The job is not done. I still need to make 3 drawers, 4 drawer fronts, 2 doors for the sink, and all of the upper cabinets. This corner still looks a lot like this except the counter top is there.

The base board still needs to be installed. I hope that keeps the oranges out from under the cabinets.










The only upper cabinet that has been made is this one. I made it so that I could check my measurements.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Looks nice Karson.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Wow. Great looking pulls. Your doing a fantastic job. I noticed that you used leg levelers under the cabinets. I used them too when I had my cabinet shop. Makes for easy install and leveling. Keep up the great work.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Very nice karson!! Hopefully you get all the oranges out before the base goes on. If not i am sure you know when one is left, the odor should give it away. I really like the wooden pulls.


----------



## woodbutcher (Dec 29, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Karson,
Absolutely beautiful work here! Have they turned the rhythm up on that pace maker? Man you're moving right along. I appreciated your links in the blog, I think? I'm trying to figure out how many dowels I'd have to make to ever pay for that doweling cutter set. I especially like the wall cabinet. That is going to be one more masterpiece when you're done with the kitchen. Keep on keeping on friend.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis


----------



## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Really very very beautiful. The shape of the frame, the pegs and the drawer pulls - love 'em so much.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Jerry: the leg levilers were a suggestion from Lee Jesberger. We were in his shop for the LumberJock picnic last year and I was asking about kitchen cabinets. He turned me on to the European style of cabinets instead of face-frame. and also use the leg levilers so you can get 2 more sides out of a sheet of plywood. The sides are 30" insteead of 34" long.

I thank him for that suggestion.

And i thank everyone for the well wishes.

I'll be glad when this project is done. my wife told me no more projects until my kitchen is done.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Ken you know that you can't put a return price on a tool purchase. Once the tool has been bought and used it's paid for itself.

In this case, I don't think I could ever buy Yellow Birch Dowels in sapwood. I'd have to make them by hand. Wait a minute I did make them by hand.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Karson, you are one clever fella. well done.


----------



## lance (Jun 25, 2007)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Hi Karson,

Really beautiful and the handles are a great touch - really sets them apart from other kitchen cabinets. The video was quite enjoyable.

Have a great day,

Bob


----------



## ericandcandi (Oct 7, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Once again you have made me move this to my favorites folder. Great work…..


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


So Karson, did you finish this project? I didn't see it posted in your projects section and I was really curious what the final photos would look like. Hope all is well!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


The drawers are all completed under the counter top. All under counter work is done and finished. No kick plates yet.

I have three drawer fronts left. I assembled one today and glued it uo. It's still in clamps. 11/18/2010.

Two more doors above the microwave above the stove The stiles and rails are completed and the panels are veneered. They need the routing on the panels to fit the Greene and Greene stiles and rails. I'm also doing beedlock on the joints to suppliment the joint strength.

One drawers on each side of the microwave to be used as spice racks still needed. The door fronts are veneered but not yet completed.

I need to veneer the soffet and do all of the work there. My wife is pushing for everything by thanksgiving. I don't think the week will get er' done. But I didn't tell her.

I will be more than happy to finish the blog and post the project.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. To be honest, these cabinets are just beautiful. Best of luck. I know it will be busy building all those Christmas toys!


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Man I was wondering how I missed this gresat project? Then I realized I was not a member when this was posted. What a great looking kitchen. I Love the G & G style. 
Well done sir!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *The drawer fronts*
> 
> Once the weather warmed up I was able to go outside to spray the drawer fronts.
> 
> ...


Ken: I'm looking at floors now before I put in the kick plate. So It's almost done.

Thanks for the comments.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*

I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.









The original soffit was about 12" high like the builders put up. I tore them out and made them shorter so the cabinets could be taller.

I did fine a couple of water pipes and a sink drain so I couldn't make a totally flat ceiling but I ended up with a 4" soffit. Two 2X4's and some drywall.

I then decided to cover the front of the soffit with the same veneer and wood that was used for the cabinets.

I glued veneer on 3/8" popular boards and nailed them to the 2X4. Then I came back and put the style and rails up with a micro pinner. Thew were held in place with tape as I installed them. The style and rails allowed me to cover any gaps between the ceiling and the veneered board. I also put a piece on the bottom of the soffit facing to go back over the drywall and cover any gaps there. The style and rail material was cut about1/16" thick. All of the design has sapwood at the tops of the doors and on the face of the doors and drawers and then heart wood on the sides and bottoms. The sapwood on all doors is two tome, white on the bottom and heartwood on the top. On the drawer fronts is was all sapwood. It was getting tougher to find pieces that were two toned.



















All up.










If you notice one busted handle I guess I must have cracked it during installation. Need to install another support piece.

All the cabinets are done I need to put just a little edge on the spice rack drawers to keep items from wanting to fall out when the drawers are opened.


----------



## Max (Sep 13, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Karson,

Everything turned out beautiful. Great looking cabinets and I like the way you did the soffit, ties everything together…


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Karson,
That really adds a touch of class to an already fantastic kitchen!!

Lew


----------



## dustyal (Nov 19, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


I agree with Max… looking good. Tied everything together nicely.


----------



## Edward (Jan 20, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ED


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Super COOL! Nice JOB!

Just a little glue will fix that broken Pull…

Thank you for sharing!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


karson that is really cool…i love your whole kitchen..however i did notice one of the square plugs looks a little out of square..you might want to fix that…LOL….......so what is next on the project list…maybe you should come here and help me finish my kitchen..didn't i hear you say that you work for food…i can handle that…grizz


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Floor is on the short list, Then kick plates for the cabinets. Wish she had requested floor before the cabinets, that would have made things easier!!!

Grizz: Work for food I could do that. But have you looked how long this blog has taken from the beginning. That's a lot of food days. 1531 days ago to post #1


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


looks nice!


----------



## Toolz (Feb 26, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Super job Karson.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


oh…did i mention i make the greatest buttermilk pancakes…and make them quite often…lol…....well im glad your not just sitting around wondering what to do…lol….....floor huh…uugg that means down on your knee's alot…that would be a deal breaker for me…...cant wait to see what you do..i hope some inlay is on the list…maybe the profile of a chef in the middle of the floor..maybe done in padauk…think it over..that would be a real crowning achievement..carry on …


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


a real pro job karson

beautiful grains and matching


----------



## jeffthewoodwacker (Dec 26, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Looks like you should become a contractor! Great job on the entire kitchen remodel.


----------



## Blondewood (Mar 30, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Wow!!! That is gorgeous work.
Vixki


----------



## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Man, you have done a bang up job on these cabinets!!

Thanks for sharing


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Great job, buddy.

Lee


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Nice job mate, very neat work. I like the pelmet effect.


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


What a great transformation. I had to go back and read the other 15 entries….
Only about half way thru the blog. You've made a wondefrful kitchen for your
wife!!!!


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


Great great job Karson I love the wood.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Karson said:


> *Mini Cabinets and Soffit upgrade*
> 
> I built two mini cabinets (Spice Racks) that are beside the microwave and fill in the space between it and the two cabinets on each side.
> 
> ...


really nice contrasting woods


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

*Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*

Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.

I got up to blog entry 5 before the kitchen got hot (You know what I mean). So then blogs 6 through 16 were on the kitchen cabinet build. That finished and so I started to clean up my shop and I had my son-in-law help me to move a table saw to the middle of the shop and move a portable workbench to the wall area where the saw had been.

Where the saw was sitting I could only rip a 16" board until I hit the wall. This was not my main saw, but it became one I was wa using more and more. So it was moved to the middle of the room where I could cross cut and also rip as needed.

I had stored a few boards under the partially completed buffet and so I needed to find out what they were. There were stretchers for three of the shelves. There were cleats for the aprons at the front and back for the bottom. I need to cut 12 drawer slides for the four rows of shelves and the drawer glides that attach to them.

So I basicly have to assemble all of the pieces so that I can measure the length of the slides and then cut the mortise and tenon on all of them.

Here's what it looks like now that it's been moved.


















Now to install a few pieces and measure.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


I can relate to the space problem Karson. There never is enough.
I usually work outside the workshop to gain more space.
Your with should be happy Karson. Gotta keep the boss on the right side mate.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


i was going to bring this up
a few times karson
but didn't want the boss to see it over your shoulder
and remember her kitchen was not finished ….

seems like you might surprise here now

well done !


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


yep, youve done this long enough , i certainly dont need to remind you of how hot the kitchen can get…lol…glad to see you back to this, its always nice to have a ''HOT MEAL '' for dinner…look forward to seeing it done.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


Have I got this right Karson?. Is this post 17 of this project. OMG
No wonder the boss is after your hide. LOL.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


...and for Valentine's Day, too!!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


nice to see you back on the horse on this one Karson.

I had to move my table saw so many times until I found a spot where I could mill 80% of the boards at it's resting place (then for the other 20% I do move it out to get more clearance).


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Karson said:


> *Its been 2445 days since I last posted on my Buffet build*
> 
> Well it's been 2445 days since my last post on my buffet build. As I stated in the first posting my wife said that you are not doing anything until I get my kitchen.
> 
> ...


Nope, never enough space ever. I too am happy you're back in action


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