# Shellac Flakes and Alcohol



## petemohr (Dec 11, 2009)

Does the quality of alcohol make a difference in dissolving shellac flakes? I've been using DNA from the BORG and have gotten poor results. (as in the flakes don't dissolve thoroughly). I've ground the flakes and stirred regularly, but no go. I don't know if it's the flakes or the alcohol. Woodcraft sells "Pure Anhydrous Alcohol. Is it worth the extra $$$ (14.99/qt)?

pete


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## miserybob (Jan 24, 2010)

I put mine in a mason jar and shake the living heck out of it, on and off for about an hour or so. Sometimes those flakes (I grind mine in a coffee grinder first) don't want to dissolve… Keep at it, they'll go eventually (as long as the shellac is fresh).

As far as I know, you can use any sufficiently pure alcohol - even Everclear (it'll just cost you twice as much in taxes!). Your DNA should be fine (as long as you're talking about Denatured Alcohol… I'm in no position to judge your deoxyribonucleic acid… lol).


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## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

Alcohol is hard to come by in Canada, at least the shellac mixing kind. I successfully use Methyl Hydrate that I get at the local hardware store. I too use a coffee grinder on the flakes first. Mix up a 1# cut in a mason jar, shake it up every once in a while, by the next day it is all disolved.


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## QuangFromCalgary (Mar 11, 2010)

The shellac resolves slowly in alcohol. It may take couple of days for it to resolve completely. In Canada, I buy Isopropyl alcohol 99% to mix the shellac. They don't sell DNA in Alberta but Methyl Hydrate (much more toxic) is readily available. 
Shellac takes more time to resolve in alcohol but it does not evaporate as quickly as Methyl Hydrate when you apply it (which is nice).


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

ive never actually done this, but I'm also a chemical engineer, so i know something about solvents: make sure the alcohol you get from the borg is close to 100%. usually the balance is water, so if it's 70% you might have problems. they should all be adequate grades for shellac, since impurities just tend to be other volatiles in very small amounts. usually other types of alcohols like methanol, propanol and butanol, all of which will work just fine with shellac.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

In Canada, methyl hydrate is the same as methanol (wood alcohol).

Denatured alcohol will work well as long as the water count is very low.

A blended ethanol, with other alcohols, product for shellac is available under the name Behlen Behkol.
It's okay. Around here it sells for about $12.00/qt.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I use denatured alcohol, but even though it appears to disolve quickly, it does take a bit. I usually shake it up good, then let it sit for a day or so before using. Then mix well again just before applying.


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## alanv73 (Jul 25, 2010)

I echo the 99% Isopropyl, but it can be difficult to get. Last time I used shellac flakes I ground them using a mortar & pestle. Great way to use an old turning project!


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## brunob (Dec 26, 2006)

I use the Behlen product but any denatured alcohol works for me. I (like others) grind the flakes in a coffee grinder. Shake the jar several times over 24 hours.


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## mnguy (Feb 4, 2009)

Pete, standard DNA is likely ~95% ethanol, with the balance being water with a few other alcohols (like AaronK said). This is because most industrial alcohol is made from corn (or sugar cane, etc.), and it takes extra processing to remove the last 5% of water, which adds cost (I'm a chemical engineer, too). The anhydrous ethanol shouldn't have a much different effect as a shellac solvent.


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## ropedog (Mar 26, 2008)

i use everclear or some local moonshine to mix mine,no water in that alcohol so all the shellac desolves.it does cost alittle more but seems to work better.


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## mnguy (Feb 4, 2009)

Actually, Everclear and moonshine typically will have higher water content than industrial alcohol, especially moonshine. Through conventional distillation, you can't get more pure than ~95% ethanol. To do better than that, you need something to 'break the azeotrope' - get the water to come out, if you will.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I have had excellent results with the denatured alcohol they sell in the paint department at Menards. Never tried mixing it with anything else (unless you count the Miller Lite in me while I am mixing it! LOL).


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## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

I've had real good luck with denatured alcohol from the local Ace hardware. I also grind the flakes into dust using a coffee grinder and then stir it a number of times before actually using it which is at least a day or so after mixing. Has anyone purchased shellac flakes or DNA from shellac.net - just wondering?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Ditto on the coffee grinder.


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## petemohr (Dec 11, 2009)

Just an update . . . 
I went to Woodcraft and took a look at Flexners Finishing book. He agrees that plane old DNA is fine. No need to spend extra for the fancy stuff. I also bought a new bag of flakes and they dissolved just fine. So the bottom line is my old bag of flakes flaked out. :-((

pete


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## tyskkvinna (Mar 23, 2010)

I use generic alcohol, whatever I have on hand. Sometimes it doesn't 100% dissolve-that's why you're supposed to strain it, I am pretty sure


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## gerrym526 (Dec 22, 2007)

Pete,
You stumbled on the right answer by chance. When shellac flakes get old, you'll have problems dissolving them regardless of the solvent.
I've ordered shellac from this Indian guy in CA, who "freshness dates" all his products.

http://shop.shellacfinishes.biz/

The first shellac flakes I got from him were so fresh they literally dissolved without mixing!
Very high quality product, at a fraction of the price of what you pay in woodworking supply houses. And, I used DNA I got from the local Ace Hardware as the solvent.
Gerry


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## supervato (May 19, 2010)

I keep my shellac flakes in the house in my closet away from heat cold and sun light.


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## petemohr (Dec 11, 2009)

Gerry - Thanks for the link. I'll give them a try.


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