# Here are a couple of home made tablesaw accessories



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

Here two tablesaw accessories that might be of interest to some of you.

The first is a tablesaw sled that allows you to cut large pieces square. You have probably seen a lot
of them, but maybe this one is a little different.

I added a blade guard at the end to protect yourself at the end of the cut and a stick hanging off the
left for clamping stop blocks for repeat cuts.










Here I installed the leading piece laying flat. It is half lapped for strength.
It allows you to do pieces a little wider and plunge cuts on a panels that it are wider than the sled.









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Here is a splitter built into a zero clearence plate. I located the cut by raising the blade all the way
and then lifting the plate out a little bit. Then move your fence until it just touched the plate.
Then insert your standard plate and cut the slot for the splitter. For the insert, make sure the the grain is
running up and down or it will break off.
.


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## FrankA (Jan 20, 2008)

I really like the insert with the splitter. I'll be trying something like that myself.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

That is a nice crosscut sled and good idea on the splitter. I need to add a splitter to my plate. I preach safety here but don't practice what I preach.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Nice designs, Gary. When I get my full-sized table saw one of these days, I'll want to steal these for sure.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

The splitter is a great feature.


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## Robb (Aug 18, 2007)

I like the flattened lead piece on the sled. I'll have to borrow that when I build my next one! Of course, it helps to have a battleship-sized outfeed table . Nice looking setup, thanks for sharing.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Nice sled. I like the idea of the "leading piece" being flat for wider boards. But wouldn't you have to cut through it anyway? How does that work?


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Gary, help me out with your sled.
I can't figure out how you use the lead piece?
Do you drop your sled over the blade for the longer stock?

Bob


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

Blake - Bob #2

You don't want to cut through it.

It just gives you an extra couple of inches vs having a board mounted on top. Plus it allows you to lay a panel
flat on top and you can raise the blade to cut into the panel. If your panel already has parallel sides you can flip
it over slide it over the raised saw blade to line it up and then continue your cut.

Basically it just gives you a few extra inches and a few more options than the standard sled.


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## grovemadman (Jan 28, 2008)

I like the zero tolerance insert, that looks like something I could use.
Thanks,


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## mski (Jul 3, 2007)

Thats a good idea for that sled!
I bought those MJ Splitters from Microjig and the work great, I got the stainless steel ones, when they were plastic I didn't trust them, kind of a pain to setup but the featherboard effect is great.
Gary how do you make your inserts, with a pattern bit on the original saw insert?


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## woodtex (Feb 12, 2008)

thanks, gary. i'm off to put a splitter on my insert- i had a kick back a few days ago and i've been nervous ever since.

rocky


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Great idea on the splitter Gary. Thanks for sharing.


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## woodtex (Feb 12, 2008)

the splitter works great.
thanks again, gary.

rocky


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Nice post Gary!

Shold prove helpful!.

Lee


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## DaveBaker (Feb 17, 2008)

I really like the splitter, simple solution to a problem, love it.

Dave


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## kjwoodworking (Oct 4, 2007)

I like both Ideas Gary. I can see advantages to the sled for sure and will be building one myself along with the insert with the splitter.

Good job and thanks for the tips.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

mski - that's exectly what I did to make the inserts. I made one as my master then used that one to
make the rest. I use 1/2 plywood and then glue a piece of wood thicker than I need into each corner.
Then I run them through my drum sander face down until the pieces of wood are sanded down
to make the insert sit perfectly flush in the table saw.

Then use a dado blade to start the slot in the bottom of the insert without cutting through. 
You need to do this because a 10" blade is too big for the insert to sit flush.


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## skozub (Feb 9, 2008)

Thanks Gary. I posted a question on inserts a few days ago. Your last write up confirms what everyone else has said - use a dado to start the slot b/c the 10" blade is too big for the insert to sit flush (you'd think the saw manufactures would address it and give you a little more lowering capacity, but hey, that means more machining time to extend the worm drive)


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

thanks for the post Gary! i think I'm gonna make one of those!


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Everyone needs these, thanks GaryK.

always,
J.C.


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## SteveKorz (Mar 25, 2008)

I like the sled, Gary… Looks like it's time for me to build one… I've needed one for a while. Thanks!


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

HI Gary;

Great sled.

Lee


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Thats a nice Sled.


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## Metrotek (Jan 19, 2011)

I have a toy saw because it's all I can afford and much of it is formed steel rather than cast and I am trying to come up with a solution for the insert; I only have about 3/64th" to 1/16th" to work with. Even if I could hang a real insert in there on suitable end brackets where it is held by clips in the formed steel table, would be a vast improvement. Anyone have any ideas?


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