# Moving a 14" bandsaw - advice please



## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Best way to move this?
Delta 52-965 14" band saw. Picture here.
This is down in a basement. I don't know anything about these as I haven't gone to look at it yet (but be assured that price in the ad isn't what I'd be paying). The guy offered to deliver it.  But it's a kid and I don't want to take any unnecessary chances with damaging something in the move. It's also supposed to rain on and off the next couple days and I wouldn't want him driving it over here in the rain. It's about 8 to 10 miles from me.

Can this be moved just like it is?

I've seen folks recommending that the table be removed to avoid cracking the trunions. 
I have no idea how much this weighs. I'm guessing about 180 pounds? More?

The millright/rigger in me looks at this and (because I'm 60 now) separate the table, loosen the belt, separate the saw fro the base. So you'd basically be breaking it down into its 3 heaviest pieces.

Thoughts?


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

WOW! That's a beauty, and looks as though the gray Japanning is still perfect. The cast iron table is something my Craftsman doesn't have and I certainly wish it did.

As to the move, just getting it out of the basement may be a chore if a number of steps or a 2-8 or 3-0 door are involved. Sounds like the three pieces approach is certainly a simple way to approach it. Suppose you're using a pick-up and have the time to disassemble and reassemble it. Be sure to acquire the original owner's manual. If he doesn't have it get one off internet. It may have some important steps for assembly that should be acknowledged during dasassembly.

Great buy! Good luck. Send pictures when reassembled and ready for your use.


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## lunn (Jan 30, 2012)

Ole dummy me was moveing a 14" Sprunger bandsaw standing up in my pickup. Thought i had it tied down good for only 4 miles. NO Problem till i had to stop hard. OOPs didn't have it tied good enough. It's very top heavy so lay it down while moveing or IMO take it apart. Why bust a gut trying to move it in one piece.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I would break it down. If it's like my grizz 555x it heavier than you think.
500.00 is too much,for a few bucks more you can buy a new grizz.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

It will be under $300. The seller and I have already discussed it at least that far. How far under $300 depends on condition and completeness.


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

I can lift (but not carry) my Grizzly which is a knock off of this model Delta, so I'm guessing the Delta does not weigh 180 lbs. I'd for sure take off the table and maybe take out the motor. That leaves a manageable 1/2 the weight, bulky but doable. And do lay it down. They are stable laying "on their backs", i.e. riser side down. There's nothing back there to get hurt, and you can secure it nicely in that position.
These are simple tools and I've had them apart in buckets, no tricks. They are dandy serviceable saws.

Dan


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I would say it depends on how much help you have. I moved my 16" walker turner bandsaw in one piece. It took 4 guys to get it on the truck and the kabota to get it off. If you're talking stairs and less help, a teardown will save a lot of strain. Oh, and I'm 55, but I forget that from time to time and promptly get reminded.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Id break it all the way down. Table off, motor off, base off. Its heavy enough and not very difficult to dismantle and reassemble. Smarter not harder. I wouldnt wanna see you out of the game because of a hernia or blown out back.

Looks like a nice bandsaw in good shape.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

OK, this is interesting. I went looking for a manual for a model 52-965 and came up empty. Went to Delta's parts web site and it referenced models 28-203 and a model 28-280. The 203 is an open stand model and the 280 is the closed stand. The model 52-965 number is apparently on the stand and I'm still not sure if that's the stand itself or what, but I got the manual for the 28-280 and it appears to be this exact saw AND on the closed stand.

Doesn't say how to remove the table, but I can't see that being real hard to figure out.

I want to see how the motor controls and wiring are routed through the base. Doesn't look like the base itself has much weight. It's kinda looking like if I take the drive belt off, and unbolt the on/off switch from the saw body, I'd be able to take out 4 bolts to separate the saw from the base. If that's the case, this could be fairly easy to break down and reassemble and nobody gets hurt


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Yea it should be 4 bolts that go through the base to the bottom of the saw. Youve got it figured out. If youre hesitant to break it down snap some pictures with your phone or bring a camera along. Im a forgetful kinda fella so i take lots of pictures when taking stuff apart. Dont wanna be left with any extra wingnuts.

All the weight will be in the motor, table, and upper portion of the saw. The base is just sheet metal probably.


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## Straightbowed (Feb 9, 2012)

JUST TAKE THE CAST TABLE OFF AND YOU WILL BE FINE GET SOME RATCHET STRAPS AND TIE IT DOWN IN THA TRUCK AND IT WILL BE FINE i HAULED MY RIKON 170 MILES IN BACK OF A PICKUP 10 345 RUNNIN 65 MPH BUT I HAD IT STRAPPED DOWN WELL


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

I suggest you break it down so it would be a lot easier to carry.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

I just brought a Central home in my Chevy HHR. Take the fence bars off the table. Bring a 24" 2×4 and four 10" 2×4s and a handful of screws. Dont forget the cordless driver. Lay the larger 2×4 under the riser and stack the smaller 2×4s alongside screwing them down to the larger. Strap down the base. DO NOT AT ANY TIME LIFT, MANEUVER, PULL OR PUSH using the table. Two MEN can lift and carry this machine up stairs with moderate difficulty. It is amazing how similar most of these 14" bandsaws look.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Remove the table and tip it the machine onto a piece of plywood
or a door leaned against your tailgate, then lift up the board and
slide it into the back. I can do this myself with a machine this
size but you'll probably want some help.

Usually one side of a machine is the one that is clearly not going
to get anything broken by having that side down. Sometimes a
switch or a knob is in the way, but these are easily removed.

I seldom move a machine upright. Most are top-heavy and if
your tie-down skills aren't very good, you may have an 
unpleasant surprise.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

charlie….... i agree with most of what i've heard, but i wouldn't remove the motor. when i got an 18" rikon 10-340 from a woodnetter, it was in a basement accessed through a bulkhead covered 8 step staircase. we removed the table and wheels, strapped it to an appliance hand truck and two guys moved it up and out with no problem. that's a 400lb. saw. yours is probably ~ 200, total and maybe 125-150 with the wheels and table removed, so it shouldn't be at all hard for 2 able bodied men with an appropriately sized appliance hand truck.

lay it on it's spine in the vehicle and secure it so it doesn't tip when moving. here's a little slide show of the BS in one of out trucks. i had help loading but got it out and moved into position alone using the hand truck shown

http://community.webshots.com/slideshow/583083464UrvXsH?mediaPosition=1

goog luck.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Just found the weight of a 28-280 on a closed cabinet base. 224 pounds.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I have a similar old Delta 14", and I may be mistaken, but I think there is also a large bolt that connects the top of the cast iron arm and the wheel to the lower portion. So you may be able to take it off the stand, and split the large top portion in two, and remove the table. I bought mine of CL a few years ago, and laid the whole thing down in the back of my truck, really should have been more careful, but it made it home damage-free.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

*Just found the weight of a 28-280 on a closed cabinet base. 224 pounds.*

shouldn't be any problem at all. if you wanted to, separating the BS from it's base as advised above would make the moving process almost ridiculously easy. but i would still counsel against removing the motor and i wouldn't think of separating the upper wheel housing from the lower wheel housing (as binghamtoned suggested). at some point, there's diminishing returns in effort saved moving the parts relative to disassembling and reassembling parts of the saw.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Yup. Looking at the manual, it appears I can remove the switch just by removing 2 screws. That separates the BS body from anything electrical. Loosen the motor enough to remove the drive belt. Remove the table. Now take out 4 bolts that secure the BS body to the base. All of the electrical is now with that base. And with the table removed from the body I think there's less chance of damage to the trunions and I can't see how any of the 3 pieces by themselves would be difficult to move.

Getting way ahead of myself though. Haven't even gone to look at it yet 

A friend of mine just emailed me and said, "Just take the table off if you have a dolly. With a dolly, they're easier to handle if they're still on the base. Just lay it on its spine and make sure it says that way. If you have to CARRY it back to your shop, then break it into 3 parts. Base, body, table and you'll be fine."


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## MR_Cole (Jun 1, 2012)

I moved my 14" bandsaw down a pretty tight stairwell by just separating the saw and the cabinet base. Its easy to do especially if someone is there to help you. It should only have 4 bolts holding it together.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

the wheels are most likely aluminum not much weight saving pulling them off. Table I would remove only because of the fence guide additions because they will generate a considerable amount of load on the trunnions if accidentally used for handles. the table is held on to the trunnions with four bolts. I would leave the rest intact. two healthy guys can lift and haul that upstairs and get it in the truck or trailer without difficulty.


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## rebelson (Jun 11, 2012)

I purchased the EXACT same band saw some months back and I moved it with a hand truck and a friend. Laid it down flat in my SUV for the 60 mile ride home. Once home I strapped it on to the hand truck and down 14 steps it went in to my basement. VERY easy to move despite the weight if you're careful and don't rush. A hand truck helped me move MANY tools.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Remove the belt and then separate the saw from the bass. It's till pretty heavy but manageable. Should be about 4 bolts is all.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Take moving blankets and some ratcheting straps as well.


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

So, how's it going, Charlie?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Maybe he hasn't responded because he's trapped under a bandsaw.


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

lol. +1 on that!


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Going over there today at 4:30 to have a look. Taking some tools with me "just in case" I decide for sure to buy it so I can start breaking it down. I'm reasonably certain I'll be buying it. I would love to take the table off and just move it standing up, but it's raining today and I don't have an enclosed truck or trailer tall enough to move it that way.

So if I break it down tonight, it will come home in my van. Laying down on its spine. I do not disagree at all with the comment about machines being moved in the orientation in which they will normally rest, but that's not always possible.

Gotta find my sockets and wrenches. Man I have stuff kinda scattered all over the place. I'd love to bring it home tonight, but the guy said he's also off all day Thursday and Friday. I just want to get it here so I can move on with the other stuff I need to do. That sounds sad. heheheh… I'm excited about this bandsaw, but I have other stuff to do and need to just do this. One way or another.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Anyone know how TALL the saw body is without the base? I actually have a way to secure it standing up, but not sure it will physically fit in the van standing up. Again, just the saw body, not the base.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Based on the scale of some of the pictures I see online, I would estimate the body is between 38 and 42 inches tall without the base. Looks to be just about 40" based on the images, and I'm giving myself 10% margin of error


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

Don't get too excited, Charlie! lol . But I hear you man. Nothing makes you more excited than having a new toy!


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## Ironwing (Sep 18, 2012)

Charlie,
I got one of these myself a few months back. 224lbs sounds about right, and it is pretty heavy for sure but not obnoxiously so. If you strap it down to a hand truck, you can move it around pretty easy, probably get it up a flight of stairs too without too much trouble. Biggest work is probably going to be getting it in and out of your vehicle, and you'll need two or three moderately strong folks to do that.

+1 on taking off any fence rails. Taking off the table probably isn't necessary.

Off the top of my head, I'd say the base is about 30" tall and the saw itself about 42".


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

i'd remove the table as it will leave more of the weight centered on the central vertical axis of the saw. the table tends to be weighted to one side and if left in position could cause the saw to tip to the weighted side.


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## rebelson (Jun 11, 2012)

47 inches.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

rebelson, thanks!


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## rebelson (Jun 11, 2012)

Welcome, Charlie. Let us know how the move goes!


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

Charlie, will the saw body go inside your car?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

First time going to meet someone off of CL and wondering if the body will fit in your trunk?


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

No… I have a minivan. If the saw body is 47 inches or less it would actually stand up if I can secure it. However I think it's going to lie down and rest for the ride. I'd hate to find I hadn't secured it well enough and have it tip over and punch out a window. I have the stow away seats in the van. I was thinking of standing the saw body in the well of the rear-most seat (60/40 split seat so… on the 40% side), but it might be awkward lifting it out of the well which is about a foot deep. I think it'll just be easier to lay it down on its spine.

The table will definitely be coming off if I buy this. Whether or not I separate the base and body will depend on how hard it is to move about. I can see it being easier to get it out of the basement on a dolly if we leave the body and base together. I'm more concerned with ease of handling and loading/unloading.

I know I'm talking this to death. I think if my wife and I can get a 400 pound table saw out of my van and hauled back to the shop in pieces and parts for reassembly, then I can probably manage a saw that should easily be under #200 with the table removed. I have no idea how much that table weighs, but it's only about 14 inches square so I can't see it being all that much. I'm guessing the motor and base weigh more than the table 

AND…. if I buy it but don't feel I have enough of the right crap with me to move it, I'll go get it Thursday.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

*"...First time going to meet someone off of CL and wondering if the body will fit in your trunk?..."*

I had always heard that CL was a dangerous place. So how the heck is Charlie going to know if this guy's body fits in the trunk? And what if it's a woman? Or TWO over-weight midgets?

*;-)*


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## Delta356 (Aug 2, 2010)

I have the newer version of this saw… There easy to move around.(Even easier with a mobil base). Once you get it to the car have one person pick up the front and another the back and slide it into the car…. It's easy.. Don't take it apart because the top part is very heavy and a pain to left on and off onto the base….If you end up buying this bandsaw it will be a great saw. Delta makes great tools, and you can't go wrong with company that pioneered the 14" bandsaw. Good luck…

Thanks,Michael Frey


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

*I had always heard that CL was a dangerous place. So how the heck is Charlie going to know if this guy's body fits in the trunk? And what if it's a woman? Or TWO over-weight midgets?

;-)*

just chop the body using that band saw from CL. lol


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## guitar1999 (Jan 24, 2012)

I thought I'd throw my two cents in since I moved a similar saw about two years ago. Definitely remove the fence rails. If yours are as sharp as mine, they will find a way to tear or scratch your interior (I moved mine in the bed of my truck, but found out about the sharpness of fence rail with my arm!) I transported the saw in one piece, on the side, but ended up separating it into two pieces when I got home. My fiance and I had no trouble carrying either half a few hundred feet around to the back of the house and down into the basement. The saw went back together without any noticeable issues and has been cutting just fine since.

Now getting the DJ-20 down there, that was a different story .


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

OK… I bought it. It's NOT the 28-280, it's the 28-203 which …. well there ain't a whole lotta difference. This has the cast aluminum wheels instead of cast iron of the 280. This has a 1hp motor which I think will be fine. This kid's dad bought the saw and used it 3 times before he died at age 51 from complications of heart surgery and the saw just sat. So the son didn't really know where to look for model number of saw and such. It's a 28-203 with a closed base. The refrigerator in the kitchen above the basement workshop sprung a leak and got the tablesaw and the table of the bandsaw wet. The son wiped it off when he found it and then oiled it, but it's discolored. Definitely not pitted. It still feels smooth as a baby's butt. Other than the discolored table, this thing looks almost new. Still had a spare motor shaft key taped to the motor. (Yes I checked to make sure it wasn't something that didn't get installed).
Here's what I got for $260

This is how it rode home (don't laugh. It worked!)









Haven't cleaned it up or adjusted anything yet, but here it is kinda just quickly reassembled.









It's a pretty clean piece









Oh yeah, the fence. I realize it's not a great fence, but it'll do until I do something better. You can see the staining on the table top. Will any of that clean off? Or should I just be happy with it as is?









Real good shot of the table top









It will definitely need a new blade. The one that's on there has a couple wonky spots.

But I don't think I can do much better for $260 around here.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Hire a moving company or afew guys that do so on the side. They have the tools and equipment and should not be more them $200 to get is safe and sound and delivered to where you want it


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## MR_Cole (Jun 1, 2012)

Hey, I have a couple 1/4" 93.5" blades that are pretty much unused. I got them and used them for a weekend and then realized that i had the riser kit which changes the length of the blade. Its yours for the price of shipping them. Pm me if interested although i'm not sure how you could get the money to me.


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## EdWood (Apr 29, 2009)

I would remove the table because I had my 14" Delta moved and they ended up busting both trunnions which are made of cast metal. Thankfully replacing the trunnions was fairly cheap and painless. The table is really not that heavy compared to the motor and it is fairly secure so I would leave the motor alone.


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## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Table will probably clean up a bit better than that.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Cole,

Thanks! PM sent.

Is there any kind of at least decent blade I could pick up locally to get this set up while I'm waiting for some good blades? I have HD, Lowes, Rockler, Sears, all in the immediate area.

I'm reluctant to go adjusting the guide blocks with the existing blade in there as it has 2 kinks in it. Funky welds maybe I haven't examined closely.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

That is one sweet looking BS! Cool! Here is a tip on how to clean up the top of the surface rust. Buy a small bottle of RustFree (you will never even use all of it). Spray it on a RAG and then apply to the top cast iron. DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY ON TOP. If you do, it will leave spray marks and drips that won't come out. Finish off with a good coat of Johnson's Paste Wax (cheap and very good wax).

http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/









*Directions*
For light rust on steel or cast iron, spray RustFree™ on a rag and wipe surface. Do not spray directly on surface, as it may cause spotting.

For heavy rust apply RustFree™ thoroughly wetting surface, allow to penetrate for 30 seconds, then scrub with Scotch-Brite pad before wiping off.

*Caution*
RustFree is acidic and should be used with care:

- Rinse thoroughly off painted surfaces and neutralize with soap and water.
- Do not use on guns or black oxide tools.
- Can dull paint or plastics.
- Can cause spotting on cast iron or steel.

Use Boeshield T-9® after cleaning with RustFree to protect bare metal surfaces.


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## MR_Cole (Jun 1, 2012)

Rockler should have some good blades. none of the big box stores carry any blades except lowes but they are horrible and they probably wont have your size.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Lowes by me carries the Bosch blades, and they make a good backup blade to your backup blade.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

If you want to get nuts you can start polishing with some 1000 grit paper and work your way up. But it's gonna take on a patina eventually so just love it as is. $260 - damn!

Oh, I wonder if the cast iron wheels would be plug and play. Gotta believe they have the same I.D. and keyway as the aluminum, But maybe not…


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Cleaned the table up a bit. Didn't go too nuts on it. Used some gun treatment on it, a well used 320 grit ROS sheet, some 400 grit, some 600 grit, and then redid the gun treatment and then Johnson's paste wax.

Before:









...and after:









I'm stoppin' at this. I can still see the original milling marks so …. it ain't perfect, but I didn't buy a brand new so, so this looks pretty good to me.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Charlie, you did a awesome job cleaning that up. Call it good enough and move on to actually using it!


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

Wow! You did a great job in cleaning the table, Charlie! Wait, I haven't congratulated you for having moved the new saw to your place. So, congratulations Charlie! And I'm not laughing with the way you moved it. Hehe..


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Looks great! Now you're set to make some dust…


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

I have a 1/4" 6TPI arriving this afternoon. I have to get SOMETHING in there that resembles a real saw blade. It's just an Olson blade, but it's the best I could do quickly. Everything local that I know about was basically crap. Hopefully I'll find a local shop that can get me good blades. If not, I'm kinda surprised at how inexpensive even the better ones are (Lenox, Starret, etc.). Lots of choices.

Meanwhile, thanks for the compliments and to all who offered advice on the move.


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

Charlie, you missed out our discussion about band saw blades. A lot of options to choose from, here's the thread: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41668.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

I read that post.  One of the things I'm hunting for is someplace local that has the higher quality blades. It would be nice to just go get one instead of having to order everything and have it shipped. That being said, I can just order what I need when I see a need coming, but I wanted to have 2 or 3 blades on hand that would be likely to handle whatever I need to do. I know there might be specialty blades I'll want, but it *looks* like most people use 2 or 3 for most everything.


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