# Checking a miter trimmer



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Had a 20% off coupon so decided to dive in and get a miter trimmer to help with my frames. I have not found success and did some checking with my gage. It appears that at least the one side cannot be placed to 45 degrees to the blade. Has anyone else had this? I was told there is no adjustment I can make. At this point I'm thinking I might as well box it up and return (and build a miter sled for my tablesaw)









Did check the lengths but angle is off


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

wow - that is quite a lot.
I had one in my past life and it was dead on true.
I would send the photo and your concerns to the place that
you bought it from and see what they can do for you.
if you have no return options, you can remove the pins that
lock the wings into position and make your own locking mechanism.
a pain, yes. but the ability to shave off a true and exact corner every time
is a requirement in framework - not an option. (it is ok to mention the brand name).
let us know how it goes.

*Edit:* after seeing Fred's post below:
please provide the brand name and model number.
I "vaguely" remember a way to adjust the wings and lock them in place.
like Fred says, the adjusting pins should be offset a little to provide precise adjustments.

.

.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Those pins in the base don't rotate? That's how my Dosch is fine tuned (same for the Pootatuck, I think)..


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Wow, that is terrible. How does the angle adjustment work on your model? have an original Lion miter trimmer. The pin that limits the swing of the fence is an eccentric cam. You loosen the set screw and rotate the cam to set the angle. Is that how your model works?h

Edit: Fred posted while I was typing my reply. I can take a picture if that would help. And he is correct, the Lion was made by Pootatuck. I just love that name.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I thought the button stop looked adjustable but when I called tech support I was told there are no adjustments other than than to tighten the arm in place. The problem is that there is no way to "open" up the angle as the arm is hitting the button on the stop. I'll take another look and see about adjusting. Of course, no meaningful instructions in the box and couldn't find any videos online either. I hate to mess up something that I cannot return it (as was still pricy even with the 20%...my Christmas present from my pups!!).

I appreciate the insights. Still hopeful I can get a batch of frames completed for gifts!


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Pics of the 90 and 45 degree stops are coming. Give me a few minutes

Edit:

OK, here is how the originals work:

First the label showing it is a genuine Pootatuck!










This is the 45 degree stop. it rotates when the screw is loosened so you can adjust where the stop pin is. The pin is spring loaded so you can move the arm over it to the 90 degree stop.










This is the fence at the other end of the trimmer butted up against the 45 degree stop. The wing nut is then tightened to hold it in place.










This is the 90 degree stop for that same fence









. It is eccentric and rotating it changes the position of the fence.










I tend to leave one fence dead nuts on 45 and the other dead on 90.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The "tech support" you spoke to must have been the night cleaning crew. I can't imagine that not being adjustable.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

I got my trimmer on ebay. I just checked and there are a lot of them for sale. A little TLC to restore the finish and sharpening the blades (I did my own) and you are in business. Just be certain the handle is included.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Kazooman - thank you for all the pictures. Mine is similar (different head fasteners…and are two rather than one like you have). May give an adjustment a try later today if I can sneak in some shop time.

I like the idea of one side at 45 and the other at 90. Doesn't seem to be a reason to not just flip the piece over to cut 45 on both ends of the board on one side of the jig.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

You can flip them easily enough if it's square or rectangular stock making up the frame. But if it's some kind of molding type it can be a little more of a challenge…it's good the be able to use both sides for both angles.


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## davezedlee (Feb 22, 2016)

use a drafting (triangle?) square to set the angles… digital anything is always subject to slop, tiny as it might be


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Have not attempted to adjust the right side yet - my stop looks like this so looks to me that it should be adjustable









I did try a bit more on the left side of the cutter. It appears I'm having trouble getting the arm truly locked in place even when tightening with a pliers - see shift


















Kept at it and got pretty good (although much smaller than planned with all the trimming!!!)










One more question - should the blade be "straight" or outward a bit (not correct phrasing but see pic)?










Thank you again for all the replies and suggestions. LJ to the rescue once again!


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I don't exactly follow the question about blade position, but if your miters are tight as you have (and tight across the edge as well) I'd leave it as it is.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Yep, you have the same sort of 45 degree stop except with two allen screws. I would only use the scribed 45 degree line on the table as a guide. As was mentioned above, using a drafting triangle is a better way to go. Then it is a bit of trial and adjust and try again to dial in the perfect angle.

As far as the blade, I assume that it should be perpendicular to the table. I do not know if this is adjustable. Perhaps with shims or something.

A few tips. Don't try to remove a lot of wood. Paper thin slices are the way to go. If you do sharpen your blades don't mess with the flat inner surface. I actually got a good deal on my Lion because there was a nick in one blade rendering it useless. I had nothing to lose and had a go at grinding it back to a straight edge and then sharpening. I am very pleased with the results. I cut slits in some lengths of tygon tubing and I slip them over the blades when the tool is not in use. Those exposed edges are an accident waiting to happen. For "picture perfect" picture frames the lengths of the pieces are critically important (as you mentioned in your original post). When I can, I tape the opposing sides together with blue painters tape and trim them simultaneously. That way there is zero error. That won't work for pieces with fancy molded faces, just like the flipping trick doesn't always work as Fred pointed out.

Finally, be VERY careful. the blades are sharp and when you move the handle you have a huge mechanical advantage. Make a mistake and you can use the cut off finger tip and the stub still attached to your wrist to check how good you angles are.


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## whitedogone (Jul 13, 2012)

Definitely take paper thin cuts. You can keep adjusting using the cut method, or if you don't have a precision angle, there is always another tool purchase.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I adjusted the stops and decided to be daring and have a go at some hickory I had cut earlier. Guess I still don't have this solved - something isn't right on with the 45 yet (time for that precision angle tool noted by whitedogone)









Worked on getting lengths exactly the same as I know that is vital. For those that use this for frames - how do you make your adjustments on length. I seem to overshoot and then have to trim the other side…again, heading to smaller size frame!

Stepped away as I know frustration rarely leads to success. As noted by Kazooman - the blades are sharp - just adjusting a piece I brushed my thumb and took a notch out of my fingernail (didn't hit skin so at least didn't bleed on my project pieces!!)


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

I trim both sides at once using rubber jaw Irwin clamps to hold every thing together. That way the opposite side are exactly the same length. My trimmer is dead nuts on but going around the horn and expecting everything to line up is pushing the limit. Trim carpenters cut a back bevel so only a narrow edge has to be tight instead of the entire depth.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

BB, the photo you added above may just be your angles are slightly too shallow versus a length issue. If you place opposite sides bak-to-back, you should be able to see/feel any slight length mismatch down to a sub 1/64" limit. Measuring directly with calipers is difficult on pointy edges since it is easy to crush the fibers.

For angle settings, the drafting triangles are excellent and affordable, but for me, when I need great accuracy (usually for other materials I occasionally cut on my TS), I turn to the machine tool industry










These are small, but ideal for checking interior angles on assemblies and for setting an angel on a sled/jig to the blade side.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Eric - not sure I can stack them and still make the cut. Will try it again (initial try wasn't successful yesterday but didn't have pieces clamped).

Splintergroup - I have lined up the pieces and tried to get the length spot on. Think it is an angle issue which is frustrating as I thought I had the trimmer set. Thanks for the link - will look into those.


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

As said before, i take thin cuts like a super thin potato chip. I have very good results with mine as a trimmer going very slowly.

I set mine by flipping the wood until it was lined up. Last tweaks were by tighting the screws if I remember correctly 25 years ago.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I do find it frustrating to get the pieces in place to just take off that super thin cut. Do you just nudge the pieces until you get contact or is there another method for placement? I have tried pushing the wood up to the blade, then moving the blade back, and then shifting the wood over for a cut. Seems to not be a very precise way to go about it (or I'm just not proficient…sure that is part if the issue)



> As said before, i take thin cuts like a super thin potato chip. I have very good results with mine as a trimmer going very slowly.
> 
> - Eric


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

I set the wood against the blade, retract the blade, nudge the wood forward slightly then make the trim cut. I find it's a hand tool that can deliver accurate results with the correct technique.

I'm not trying to make a perfect length, I'm making a perfect match.

Once you get it set you'll get the hang of it. Mine is still accurate after 23 years.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

That's how I've been approaching it. Sounds like I just need to get the setup "set" at the correct angles. The journey continues! Thanks for the insights - much appreciated.



> I set the wood against the blade, retract the blade, nudge the wood forward slightly then make the trim cut. I find it s a hand tool that can deliver accurate results with the correct technique.
> 
> I m not trying to make a perfect length, I m making a perfect match.
> 
> ...


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> I do find it frustrating to get the pieces in place to just take off that super thin cut. Do you just nudge the pieces until you get contact or is there another method for placement? I have tried pushing the wood up to the blade, then moving the blade back, and then shifting the wood over for a cut. Seems to not be a very precise way to go about it (or I m just not proficient…sure that is part if the issue)
> 
> - BB1


When I do "skim" cuts with my miter (very effective way to avoid blade deflection issues), I make the first cut, then add a shim to my stop block of the skim cut. For a shim, something like a 0.020 feeler gauge or even a playing card is just right.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Are you talking about on the table saw or do you have a setup with a miter cutter?



> When I do "skim" cuts with my miter (very effective way to avoid blade deflection issues), I make the first cut, then add a shim to my stop block of the skim cut. For a shim, something like a 0.020 feeler gauge or even a playing card is just right.
> 
> - splintergroup


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

For me it's on the table saw. Does your miter trimmer have a stop to register the piece? If not (and the piece is short enough) you could use a magnet as a stop but perhaps there is not enough table. The joint error caused by a slight mismatch in the "perfect" 45 versus a slight length mismatch is most ofter caused by the angle error. The longer the side pieces, the less the effect of a length error.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Nothing to use as a register point. Not sure how to create an add-on to allow for that. Given the nice clean cut, I then struggle with the perfect length!! Oh, the ongoing quest for the perfect miter. Haha



> For me it s on the table saw. Does your miter trimmer have a stop to register the piece? If not (and the piece is short enough) you could use a magnet as a stop but perhaps there is not enough table. The joint error caused by a slight mismatch in the "perfect" 45 versus a slight length mismatch is most ofter caused by the angle error. The longer the side pieces, the less the effect of a length error.
> 
> - splintergroup


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Pootatunk had a device that attached to the Lion and served as a stop. Here's a short article that describes it, has pics too, but they don't show up very well….it's an old Popular Mechanics article (1977).


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

That looks like a helpful addition - that's what I think is needed to give an ability to fine tune frame sides. I checked a bit online and didn't see that option available anywhere for sale. I appreciate that link - thanks for looking that up.
Played around with the one I bought for again this afternoon. No luck with getting to "picture perfect" with regard to the miters. Think I'm going to need to head back to my tablesaw setup…



> Pootatunk had a device that attached to the Lion and served as a stop. Here s a short article that describes it, has pics too, but they don t show up very well….it s an old Popular Mechanics article (1977).
> 
> - Fred Hargis


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## GaryG54 (5 mo ago)

my miter trimmer 90 degree cam adjustment screw just spins, any ideas?


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I returned mine. Never could get a good outcome. Use a sled now at the tablesaw (blog on my setup).

Hope someone can give you feedback. Sounds like miter trimmers work for many others.


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