# router plate ledge width?



## jimmyjj (Nov 20, 2011)

I'm building my first router table and have the basic top done. When routing the opening for the insert, how much of a lip do i need? I purchased the Rockler leveling screws which will be put through the lip. If anyone has the Rocker plate as well with the lock down screws in two of the corners, how much of a lip did you leave in these corners?


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I think it's about a half inch. If nobody comes up with an exact number, I'll check it when I'm in the shop tomorrow.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

The ledge on my RT is not uniform in than it is not the same width around the perimiter.
My RT is a Benchdog cast iron TS extension wing. It replaced my old shop built one which had a 5/8" lip but the mounting plate was't one of the two current "standard" sizes on the market as I didn't know any better then …

*I still don't know better about a lot of things.*

*ABOUT THE LEVELING SCREWS!*
My leveling screws are under the table and need adjustment for each different plate I use (3 different mounting plates) and, if I were you, I would put the leveling screws in the mountng plate so they can be adjusted from the top, much easier to adjust, and adjustments stay with a specific mounting plate. Using Allen head set screws that are at least as long as the plate is thick as you don't want the screws proud of the plate … that would be a real problem!


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## jimmyjj (Nov 20, 2011)

I saw in an old shop notes that they cut the lip at 3/8ths, but they also used a hardboard plate. Double srong i thought.

I assume the bench dog lip is iron? I would think that 5/8ths is mo than enough in metal. Mine is mdf


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

I have the Rockler plate. I have 3/4" all the way around except for one spot were I cut a semi circle in the front to allow for the router handle. Wall on the semi circle is about 3/8". Go a little bigger and see how the clearance is. You could always remove some lip if you need it. I have six screw in the lip to level the plate.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

The Benchdog TS extension RT is cast iron. I have three insert/router mounting plates the one from Benchdog, phenolic, a shop made slippery plastic, and aluminum. They are all 3/8" thick.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I agree 3/8" - 1/2"


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

What is the material of the top? If it is MDF, I would make a ledge out of a hardwood and fit it into a larger hole in the top. MDF, rabbeted to accomodate a router plate, is not ver strong and will fail in no time. Here is a sketch to illustrate what I mean. It should be on 4 sides of the opening in the top.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Here are the dimensions off my setup, which is a Rockler table and insert.

The table is Formica cover MDF, total thickness about 1 5/16
The ledge for the insert is about 0.400" all around except in the corners and in the center of the long dimensions.
The corners that contain the inserts for the hold down screws have a 45 degree gusset that is about 1 3/4 from the corners. The other two corners have smaller gussets are about 3/4 from the corners.

There are 8 leveling screws. Two are in the center of the long dimension of the plate, the corners that have the hold down screws have a leveling screw on each side of the hold down screw insert, and the remaining two corners each have one leveling screw.

The depth of the ledge is 0.487 deep. (It needs to be slightly deeper than the router plate so it can be adjusted level with the table using the leveling screws.


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## rexb (Mar 28, 2012)

I used a Rockler insert plate and leveling screws when I built my router table extension. I figured there was no reason to cut out more than I needed to, so I based the hole off my router. In the future if I get a larger router I can just make the cutout bigger.


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

I have a Rockler plate/Bosch 1617 and I did what Rex B did, but not as pretty.
I removed the wood handles from the base instead of cutting slots for them.


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