# Norms Router Cabinet



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*Starting on the Cabinet*

I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.


















I have a big honkin Hitachi M12V, a Router Raizer/Xtreme Xtension kit, and an Original INCRA Jig ready once this rig is built.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Starting on the Cabinet*
> 
> I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.
> 
> ...


This is looking pretty go so far. I have one of these on my to do list as well. Adding the Incra jig to this table is going to give you a pretty nice set-up.

Looking forward to seeing your progress on this.


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## Texasgaloot (Apr 8, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Starting on the Cabinet*
> 
> I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.
> 
> ...


I've had the plans to do one of these for maybe a decade, and have never started it. I don't know why, except it always induced me to start changing how I pronounce things; e.g. "Routah." It's looking real fine - can't wait to see it finished!


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Starting on the Cabinet*
> 
> I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.
> 
> ...


Hi sIKE;

This is looking good!

Last major build out in the shop? Doesn't that scare and depress you?

I hated it when my shop was ready for real work!

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Starting on the Cabinet*
> 
> I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.
> 
> ...


Lee,

This is more of a hobby right now, and I have been working on the build out since March of last year, I am very happy to be closing in on completion as I am many "woodworking" project waiting in the wings. I will be happy to be working on wood instead of my shop….


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## coloradoclimber (Apr 7, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Starting on the Cabinet*
> 
> I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.
> 
> ...


sIKE,

How big is the table top going to be? I'm in the process of designing a router table and I'm also going to mount an incra fence. I'm doing an offset mount instead of a center mount like your table. The incra fence calls for something like 19+ inches offset from the router hole. How much offset are you planning on?


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Starting on the Cabinet*
> 
> I am very excited about this project as it is the last major one before I consider the build out of the shop complete.
> 
> ...


coloradoclimber

I am planning on moving the router a bit more forward than norm calls for and I am considering adding a piano hinge across the back to add a flip up extension to get me the required additional space behind the router. I am going to take norms plans for the top, draw them up in Sketchup and then see from there, I just might end up with a small bump around the back of the table to accommodate the jig, I am not using the big daddy that you have, just the little "Original Incra Jig" but I will blog this as a part of this project.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*"My" Cabinet is done*

This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).










Still have the drawer construction and that install, dust collection, electrical, Router Raizer mods, the top, and its fence(s) to build out.


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## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


Looking good. I'm anxious to see the finished project. Thanks for sharing.


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## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


ditto on seeing the finished project. Looking good so far.


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## Phishead (Jan 9, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


Looking good. I'm just finishing up my version. I'll be sure to post mine when it's done. Here's a question: why is a plexiglass door used the majority of the time on these? So we can see if chips are building up or so we can see our fancy routers? I think I'm going with a wood door.


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


I agree with the wood door, looks better. I am going to modify drawers just slightly to hold the case that can hold the case my set came in. Another modification I am going to do is add a sloped bottom to the front side too. So that is funnels the dust for sure to the front of the dust port. Maybe not as steep as the back one, but as steep as it can be and still get the router in and out when needed.


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## Texasgaloot (Apr 8, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


I wish we had another weekend right now so we could see more progress! Not that I'm impatient or anything…


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


another modification I am going to do is flush mount the switch basically like norm did in his first table. The switch will mount into a standard single gang remodel electric box, and just use some extension cord wire with a plug wired on one end and a short pigtail with a plug for the router. Just looks a little more finished rather than a big box switch hanging the side. 
Grizzly sells the switch for about $10. The all in one unit used on the version 2 is about $20-30. Easier to wire, yes, cheaper, no. YOu could go really cheap and just use a standard light switch. That looks a little rednecked though.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


Hi sIKE;

We know Norm's is done!

How you making out with yours? lol

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *"My" Cabinet is done*
> 
> This weekend I got the cabinet assembly completed (basically).
> 
> ...


Well, I must of not submitted what I wrote last night.

Lee,
Funny, correct me if I am wrong but he has made two of them…. now back to our normal programing.

TonyZ,
I am guessing so you can look at sawdust build up in the cavity.

Tooldad,
I have ordered this switch from Grizzly, I think it is the one you are referring too. I am going to mount it to the front of the cabinet. I was thinking of this one (thanks Phred) but decided against it as it was a bit big. I do like the idea of a sloped bottom to the front side also. I will wait till after the Router is i mounted in the cabinet before deciding if and where it is possible.

Thanks for all of the comments!


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*The Electrical Work*

Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways. 








Here is a view of the internals.








Below the switch you can see I finally got the 17/32nd drill bit in and started on the four 1/2" bit trays. I hope to have those completed tomorrow.

Update: The work done here provides 20 AMP service to the cabinet. Which is why the cost was what it was. The plug and 12/2 cord were pricey.


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


I always said that is the change I would make too. That all in one switch box that Norm uses is $30-40 depending on which site you get it from, then you have shipping. I just bought that grizzly switch for a jointer in my shop that had a light switch. Cost me $12. Enjoy the table


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


This is a nice addition to your router table and it is one that is a major improvement in the overall safe operation of the tool. This is something that I am looking into doing. On one of my router tables I have to blindly reach under the table to find the router's switch to start it and shut it down. This is simply an accident waiting to happen.

Thanks for the inspiration.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


Thanks Scott! I am hoping this is a great safety improvement on the table with easier access than Norms plan.


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## JerrySats (Jul 7, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


I like that setup with the switch . How did you wire it up ?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


Looks good


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## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


Looking good. I need to order me one of those switches from grizzly for my router table.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


JerryS,

I am not quite sure what you are asking here. The power from the wall comes into the grey box in the back, which then routes up to the switch which turns the outlet on and off. I am going to add a dbl gang box on the outside of the cabinet one of these days. I just haven't decided if it will be switched or not…


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## JerrySats (Jul 7, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


sIke

I'm somewhat electrically challenged ,another words I don't mess that electric . Though I get the jest of how you did it . It's pretty clear looking at the picture of the inside how you wired it . I just wasn't sure how you connected the wires in that gray closed cover box at the back. Does the switch control both outlets or just one ?

Thanks again


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *The Electrical Work*
> 
> Got back in the shop this afternoon and after two trips to the orange box I got all of the electrical work done. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is a custom piece much different from Norm's plan. The switch is from Grizzly, I have the 12/2 wire on hand, the rest is from the orange box. Total outlay about $38. The switch works great even though it is mounted sideways.
> 
> ...


From the wall is standard 12/3 wire it is run into the box and connects to the romex via pigtails and wire nuts. The switch controls both outlets.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*

Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.

It worked out just great, basically the solution was to use my heat gun to soften the glue, then my cabinet makers mallet to knock the cleat loose, and I then pulled the old brads out. Next was a clamp used to spread the partition a part and I then placed a spacer the appropriate size in the tray space and then used a big parallel clamp to pull everything back to its proper place. New brads and glue to fix everything in their proper location. I am very pleased with the results. One side effect is that I am going to have to re-do all of the bit tray fronts and build out two new trays.

So here is where things stand as of this evening.










And here are some of the trays pulled out.










Next up is to fix the two trays all of the fronts on the left hand side and to get the drawers done.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


This is going to be a nice addition to your shop. Nice recovery on the drawer too. To be honest with you I probably would not have thought to try and break the glue and nail joint. But you obviously were "thinking outside the box" and came up with a nice solution to your problem.

Well done.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


Scott,

I was reading through blogs at some point and saw that someone used a blow dryer to remove a template that was adhered using spray glue. So a LJ was the source of the inspiration of course….


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


looks good. Also looks like you've been stocking up on some of those woodcraft bits. I can't believe how quickly you are getting everything put together. Hope you can maintain the pace!


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


I have a question, how you going to turn this off?

That switch is huge. Even a blind woodworker could find it!

Very nice work.

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


HokieMojo,

I can't pass up a good quality $5 bit. Just a sucker that way and I have room for a lot more.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


Lee,

Thanks! This has been one of those learning projects again. Sort wished I flipped the location of the wrench drawer and the electrics. That way that switch would be on my left. But alas it is not to be 

If you are having vision problems and are in need, you can get your very own "huge" switch at Grizzly.


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## Southern_Woodworker (Oct 4, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


I built this router table a few years ago and it has really been a good table. However I will give you one piece of advice. If you live in a humid environment you will want to stay away from using MDF to make the fence. It's ok for the top but I have had issues with the sliding fence. On my table the out feed side had swollen causing a slight lip that would cause the work piece to hang and ultimately left a small snipe in my work piece every time I would try to negotiate around it. I eventually replaced the sliding components with UHMW which made a huge difference. I think I will rebuild the top though and get a little better router plate and use phenolic plywood for the top. In all the table has been a great addition to the shop and the dust extraction has been superb. You will really enjoy it.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


Wow, what great ideas! Karson has recently blogged about using phenolic plywood, and I hadn't even considered using it in this application.

Did you use full pieces of UHMW or did you use the tape?

Thanks!


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## Southern_Woodworker (Oct 4, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Bit Tray's and Cabinet Door are Done - well almost*
> 
> Worked on this last weekend and got back on it today. When I worked on it Sunday getting the door in place I quickly realized that a previous mistake, the left inside panel for the tray cabinet was key stoned with the top tilting in. This left a major gap on the right hand side of the door. The case was glued and brad nailed so I was very afraid to take it back apart to fix it in the first place. So I thought about it all week while in Nebraska and came up with how to fix it.
> 
> ...


I used full 3/4" pieces for both the infeed and outfeed slides. When I rebuild the top I plan to use the phenolic plywood for all the other parts except the feather board strip above the fence. That's just so the thickness is the same as the fence.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*Drawers and Trays are done*

Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.










I also got the three drawers for the bottom of the cabinet done.










Tomorrow, I am gonna get out there and get the handles on the trays and get the drawers and drawer slides mounted. That should just about finish the cabinet base done, and I can start on the design and layout of the top. Much there I need to figure out.


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Drawers and Trays are done*
> 
> Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.
> 
> ...


Can you send me a pic of how the fence t-bolt is routered or mortised in? Is it just a wide track? I would think it would get narrower for the thread part of the bolt. Other manufactured router tables I have seen use a carriage bolt because the square portion keeps the bolt from turning. That is my only wonder on how it is done. I have watched the video several times. I don't need the measured drawing just for that info. In fact I am going to make my own dimensions a little different that Norm's but use his basic design. Thanks for any help you or anyone can give me.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Drawers and Trays are done*
> 
> Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.
> 
> ...


tooldad,

I will get that too you tomorrow, the plans are out in the shop, I will look that up and let you know. c


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Drawers and Trays are done*
> 
> Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.
> 
> ...


thanks


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Drawers and Trays are done*
> 
> Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.
> 
> ...


I can't wait to see the finished product. You are making solid progress on this. This is going to be one top notch addition to your shop.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Drawers and Trays are done*
> 
> Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.
> 
> ...


This is coming along very nicely. I've been following this with some interest since I own a table just like this. However, I bought mine half-finished at an estate sale so I didn't get the pleasure of building mine from the ground up. Of course, given some of the things you've run into, maybe that's not a bad thing 

Nice job! Can't wait to see the series on the top when you get to it.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Drawers and Trays are done*
> 
> Got out today and get the trays for the left hand side of the cabinet redone, I found a real cool piece of the ply for the drawer/tray fronts.
> 
> ...


Hi sIKE;

This is looking real good. I'll bet you can't wait to give it a try.

Very vice work!

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*Woohoo the Router Cabinet base is done*

Well I got out late this afternoon and put a couple of hours into the base cabinet an got it completed. I still need to do a bit more adjusting the drawer slides. I am also one knob short on my drawers gonna have to make a run to Ikea and get me another pack of knobs.










Next up is the top and fence. I am leaning real heavy towards a phenolic plywood top if I can't get the crown out of the butcher block top I picked up at Ikea for $10. I gotta see how that goes. It is gonna be a bit though as I am on the road for the next couple of weeks and a high school re-union next weekend so no shop time for a couple of weeks. Hope to get the design done though in the mean time.


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## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Woohoo the Router Cabinet base is done*
> 
> Well I got out late this afternoon and put a couple of hours into the base cabinet an got it completed. I still need to do a bit more adjusting the drawer slides. I am also one knob short on my drawers gonna have to make a run to Ikea and get me another pack of knobs.
> 
> ...


Looking good


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## LeeinEdmonton (Aug 5, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Woohoo the Router Cabinet base is done*
> 
> Well I got out late this afternoon and put a couple of hours into the base cabinet an got it completed. I still need to do a bit more adjusting the drawer slides. I am also one knob short on my drawers gonna have to make a run to Ikea and get me another pack of knobs.
> 
> ...


Very nice workmanship. The only thing I found with my version which had drawers for bit storage was that I found them kinda unhandy when hunting for a bit in them. I did away with them & instead installed a 4" deep cabinet in under the top overhang at one end of the cabinet & attached with a piano hinge. The bits are installed in angled rows. Now when I swing open the cabinet, I can see all of my bits at a glance & of course no difficulty in finding the one I want.

Lee


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Woohoo the Router Cabinet base is done*
> 
> Well I got out late this afternoon and put a couple of hours into the base cabinet an got it completed. I still need to do a bit more adjusting the drawer slides. I am also one knob short on my drawers gonna have to make a run to Ikea and get me another pack of knobs.
> 
> ...


Nice job sIKE. I am sure that Norm would also give you a thumbs up on this!! 

I am looking forward to seeing the top on it. This really makes me want to get out in the shop with my set of plans and get to work- now that I have some free time.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Woohoo the Router Cabinet base is done*
> 
> Well I got out late this afternoon and put a couple of hours into the base cabinet an got it completed. I still need to do a bit more adjusting the drawer slides. I am also one knob short on my drawers gonna have to make a run to Ikea and get me another pack of knobs.
> 
> ...


Hi sIKE;

It looks real good.

Getting closer all the time.

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*Router Table Top Design*

I have been working out the design for the top for my router cabinet. I am going to build the fence as per Norms plans, the outside slots. But I am also going to use an Incra Original Jig and fence system, the T-tracks sitting behind the router plate. The design of the cabinet is not offset for the Incra Original jig , so I had to make the back bulge out about 5 1/2" to accommodate jig and it's base panel.










I have been thinking about modifying the bulge so it is attached to the cabinet with a piano hinge. Then add a couple of swing out support brackets. That way when I am not using the Incra fence the bulge can be folded down.

The more I use it and the more I like Sketchup and it is getting easier for me to draw things up. Let me know what you think.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Router Table Top Design*
> 
> I have been working out the design for the top for my router cabinet. I am going to build the fence as per Norms plans, the outside slots. But I am also going to use an Incra Original Jig and fence system, the T-tracks sitting behind the router plate. The design of the cabinet is not offset for the Incra Original jig , so I had to make the back bulge out about 5 1/2" to accommodate jig and it's base panel.
> 
> ...


I do not know the dimensions of the top you are making? 
I just finished a router cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/JohnGray/blog/5615#comment-215989). 
I have an Incra jig for it so the top is deeper than it is wide. If I had to do it over I'd make the top at least 6" wider and leave the depth the same.
My 2 cents.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *Router Table Top Design*
> 
> I have been working out the design for the top for my router cabinet. I am going to build the fence as per Norms plans, the outside slots. But I am also going to use an Incra Original Jig and fence system, the T-tracks sitting behind the router plate. The design of the cabinet is not offset for the Incra Original jig , so I had to make the back bulge out about 5 1/2" to accommodate jig and it's base panel.
> 
> ...


I have added the dimensions for the top.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *Router Table Top Design*
> 
> I have been working out the design for the top for my router cabinet. I am going to build the fence as per Norms plans, the outside slots. But I am also going to use an Incra Original Jig and fence system, the T-tracks sitting behind the router plate. The design of the cabinet is not offset for the Incra Original jig , so I had to make the back bulge out about 5 1/2" to accommodate jig and it's base panel.
> 
> ...


Hi sIKE;

Sounds like a very good top design, and I like the hinge idea.

That bulge in the back could be used for a dust control box. I posted one somewhere, where the sides and top of the box are independent of each other, and reduce the ambient dust by at least 85%

I think the design is very efficient, and really wouldn't use the router table without it.

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

*and Finally the Fence*

I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.


























I only made one mistake the top fence I put the Dado on the wrong side (for a piece of T-Track). I have filled that dado in with a piece of scrap walnut and will put the dado in the proper side this afternoon. This is also my first go at putting Laminate on solo, and thankfully that was successful. I do have to say that contact cement is quite messy though. Most of the MDF has glue sizing on it already and hope to have it assembled and painted later today. In the second pic you can see that I painted one of the blocks already to test the resulting color, also you can see the results of the glue sizing on the fence face at the bottom, the strip you see there does not have any of the glue sizing on it.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Moving along!


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## gagewestern (Mar 24, 2009)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


HI i have a lot of projects like that they get to a point where you can use them and the acc. come when you need them or have timeto complet it you just have to keep at. it have fun work hard and try to make some money !!!!!!!!!! brian


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Yeah that is always the fun part of projects I get to stop and make me things for my shop.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


sIKE, this is looking pretty good. I am sure Norm would put his seal of approval on it as well> 

This is certainly an inspiration to get started on mine.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Hi sIKE;

It's looking good so far.

I think projects for the shop are the most fun.

Nice work.

Lee


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee! Glad to see you poke your head up again….


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## AlexB (Jun 2, 2010)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Nice looking cabinet for the router. Always like Norms cabinet idea.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Thanks! The top is going to have to be redone. It is a sag in it and I just have not been very happy about that! This flaw is due to my redesign of the top. Can't blame Norm here!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


You can always blame Norm.

With luck, he'll join this website, and begin to defend his good name ;-)

It looks great ! Sorry about the sag. What's your thought about how to deal with that ?


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

sIKE said:


> *and Finally the Fence*
> 
> I have had the cabinet completed for sometime now, and had the Incra Fence already. However it is not a general purpose fence, one that you can attach feather boards and such to. I need to be able to keep my work flat on the table for my current project (Sliding Dovetails) so I am now having to build this guy out. Having read about the complaints about the MDF swelling after a period of time I have decided to finish mine out with paint. I went to the BORG and grabbed a can of a off white spray paint from the clearance rack and when I checked out the SKU was no longer in the system and the clerk just gave it to me! Here are a some pics.
> 
> ...


Honestly, better plywood. Both layers will be 3/4" baltic birch and I am going to laminiate both sides this time instead of phenolic plywood it just chipped out to much when I put the plate for the router.

The main problem, is my work (traveling) has been crazy over the last year and my hunny do list is stacked up a mile high. Slowly working to get that list manageable so I can get back out in the shop. It has been a very long long time since I have done any wood working. (


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