# Tool Tip



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Drum Sander Tip *

Just recently I managed to buy a second hand drum sander.
The sander is CARBA TEC badged but looks like a Jet 16 -32 Knockoff, as it certainly does not have the height of the current models.










I gave it a bit of a beating when I first bought it and sanded just about everything in sight one day, mainly to familiarise my self with its capabilities of what it can and cannot do.

In the process I managed to break a belt and clog some of the others with resin and wood.
The grits I had removed ranged from 60G 80G 120g and 240G from memory.

As these belts amounted to a significant purchase I was not prepared to just throw them away.

I later found out some information from degoose as to where to buy replacement Belts.

Well I have had the machine for about 3 months now and find that I have spent possibly more than the original purchase price on consumables and have about seven belts removed from the machine for clogging or being broken. They were incrementally cleaned whilst in use with belt rejuvenator but it did not fully remove the clogging

The place I got the belts from is The sandpaper Man at Manly West.
I was at the Sandpaper Man"s premises last week talking sandpaper as one would do at a sandpaper shop, when the topic of rejuvenation of the belts came up.

I found out as all the belts I have were polyester cloth there was no reason why I could not soak them in water or the likes to remove the clogging and scrub them with a brush or even use a pressure cleaner on them.

As I had all those items available I thought I would give it a go.

So first up into a bucket of water with some detergent added they went for an overnight soak.










I then hung them up on the gate,
This is a top view of belt No 1










This is a bottom view of belt no 1










and introduced the pressure cleaner to them.
The results being,









This is the second belt before cleaning.

I continued and pressure cleaned all the belts










This is the third belt before cleaning.










this is the third belt cleaned and forth belt ready for cleaning, 
Note whatever the black contaminant was, it not all completely removed.









Belts 2, 3 and 4.

I worked my way through cleaning them all and obtained the following results










and belts 1, 5, 6 and 7.










The Pressure cleaner removed almost all of the contamination from every belt including the broken one, of which I will cut up and use else where.

After they were dry I checked them again just in case the water had masked the contamination but all were good.

*Conclusion:*

Belt Rejuvenation:
No doubt belt rejuvenation whilst the belt is in use is important to prolong its useful life, drum sanders work hard moving material and need adequate dust extraction and cleaning when in use,
Contaminants:
Drum Sanders don't like sanding contaminants like paint and resins if they are grits around 80+ and will clog quickly.
So if there are traces of paint or resin up the grit abrasive range (You can get a 32 Grit) or use another method to prepare the timber.
External Cleaning:
External Cleaning does not restore the surface grit it simply removes contaminants, so if its worn out its now cleaner and worn out!

Enjoy


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Drum Sander Tip *
> 
> Just recently I managed to buy a second hand drum sander.
> The sander is CARBA TEC badged but looks like a Jet 16 -32 Knockoff, as it certainly does not have the height of the current models.
> ...


Your belts are clogging up because your taking too much at one time. Try running your boards through the same thickness setting 3-5 times. I know it seems crazy, but, your sander will like it much better


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Drum Sander Tip *
> 
> Just recently I managed to buy a second hand drum sander.
> The sander is CARBA TEC badged but looks like a Jet 16 -32 Knockoff, as it certainly does not have the height of the current models.
> ...


Thanks Roger
OK sound like a good Post tip to add, I can only agree with your comment.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Drum Sander Tip *
> 
> Just recently I managed to buy a second hand drum sander.
> The sander is CARBA TEC badged but looks like a Jet 16 -32 Knockoff, as it certainly does not have the height of the current models.
> ...


I soak mine overnight in undiluted Simple Green and the spray with pressure nozzle. Works as you describe. And I reuse the Simple Green many times.

"Poor folks have poor ways!"


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Reverse Glue Joint work 1 Aug 2013*

I have a couple of Reverse glue Joint bits for my router and one cutter for my shaper.
I don't use them very much, and as I had some left over timber from my Slope Tray work, I decided to give them a run.
Or at least the shaper cutter.

The timber had been jointed previously so there was not a lot of preparation required.
Shop bought finished timber would be the same, rough sawn would require jointing prior to use.
The Reviews I read on using a Glue Joint Bit has a mixed opinion as to their usefulness and the process required to set them up.

So why would you use them in the first place? as there are T&G joints, Biscuit Joints and their various commercial counterparts, and lastly there is also a simple butt joint which work fine any way.

*Reported advantages are:-*

50% increase in glue surface area.
That's got to be good both for the reliability of the joint and the glue supplier!

Self alignment when assembled.
Definitely a bonus when clamping multiple pieces together.

One cutter/bit does both joints.
This is correct and makes cutting a one cutter process, no different to a slotting cutter though.

*Some Disadvantages I found were.*

1. The cutter required using test blocks to setup to get precise fit-up.
2. You need a shaper or a table mounted router with fences, and so set up of the fences is then required. 
Now depending if you need an excuse to buy the equipment this could be a plus or a minus!
3. There is a loss of width from 5mm to 10mm min depending if you do two cuts or just the one on the outer sides or ends. No different to T & G cutters.

*The General set up View*










A bit hard to see anything but there it is.

*Setting the height*
This is where the center of the cutter is aligned vertically so its dead center of the timber to be cut.
Thus can be done by eye as after the first test cut there may be an adjustment required anyway.

Ignore the lack of precision as I was holding the phone camera and the rule as well.










*Test Blocks*

Cutting some test blocks

There are a couple of methods you can use to cut set blocks.

*Method 1.*

Cut the test "A" piece face up and the "B" piece face down. Turn the "B" piece right side up and fit them together to see how even the pieces are at the joint.
If the "B" piece is low, raise the bit one-half of the difference between the boards. If the "B" piece is highest, lower the bit one-half of the difference. Repeat the test cuts and adjust as necessary until the faces of the two boards are flush when fit together.

*Method 2. *

Cut a section of test material long enough to cut off 1 end. Mark the off cut B and the remainder A
Invert B and mate it to A check the alignment and adjust to suit. If a re cut is required cut off A and start again.

Don't forget, the material for the test blocks does not have to be your expensive project material.
The only requirement is that is that the Test Block material must be the exact thickness of the project material.










Checking the alignment.
As everything was good to go the timber was profiled. If not minor adjustments are now required and new test blocks as well, as you cannot re use them over the previous profile.










Preparing the timber for clamping.
Here we go all in a row.










In the clamps
I used 2 x simple sash clamps and a couple of F clamps










At Glue up.
You may not need any vertical clamps but I was not taking any chances with bowing.
Take a note of the raggedy ends, this is where I cut the piece from showing the cut off edge










inspection of the joint from a cut off edge
A very tight fit I thought. Most satisfactory










Prepare to lose some width
The loss in width comes from the 5mm profile cut in the timber, and dependent upon setup can be deeper, add this to both sides/edges to be glued and a overall loss of 10mm min is revealed










Other types of cutters.

These are two other bits I have the left one is capable of cutting material from about 12mm up to 40mm.
I am not sure what the bearing is for as it would be outside the edge of the timber when in use.
Its possibly for doing joints at 90 degrees.

The one on the right is a router shank bit and works exactly the same as the shaper mounted bit










*Conclusion:*

Depending on how much emphasis on the joint strength is placed its not necessarily a "Must have" cutter, but certainly ensures correct alignment at glue up, and is capable of producing an excellent joint.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Reverse Glue Joint work 1 Aug 2013*
> 
> I have a couple of Reverse glue Joint bits for my router and one cutter for my shaper.
> I don't use them very much, and as I had some left over timber from my Slope Tray work, I decided to give them a run.
> ...


I have an older Craftsman (King-Seeley) shaper with one of these joint cutters, and I think I just learned that cutter's purpose and how to set it up properly. Thanks, Robert!!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Reverse Glue joint at 90 deg Aug 2013*

Before dismantling my shaper I decided to do some more 90 degree reverse glue joint work.

I had some timber needing attention so I set it up again using method 2, cut the set up blocks from the single piece of timber.

From the initial eyball setup I made another two adjustments and it was again a perfect fit.

So bring on the 90 deg joint.

Keeping in mind I was just using the shaper cutter and not a bearing mounted bit this is the result I got.

*Picture 1.*

This is the test cut after alignment, some where in there is a reverse glue joint cut, the precision is impressive.










*Picture 2*

This is the same test cut looking from the other end, the cut is just visible this time.









*Picture 3.*

Here is another shot, same as picture 1 but with the joint deliberately off set to see the actual mating surfaces.

*Note:*

A point to note here on the vertical section there is a small rebate, this is due to using a shaper bit and not setting the fence at zero. Other wise this is where the bearing mounted cutter earns its bread.










Having a reasonable result with the 90 Degree I decided to go another step and try a 45 Degree joint.

Now the 45 Degree cutting was a breeze, simply a matter of clamping the material to the tee slide and passing it through. 
However because the cutter has a high side and a low side although the joint worked perfectly again, using it this way resulted in a miss match in the material on the opposite sides of the inner 45 degree joint.

This in my mind was unacceptable so I binned the test cut.

I then examined a T&G cutter and upon checking the profiles the only difference between the two is that the T&G cutter has two parallel profiles either side of the tongue and groove cutter section, where as the reverse glue joint has an offset cutter surfaces either side of the T&G section.

This makes the T&G cutter suitable for 45 degree joints as opposed to the reverse glue joint cutter.

*Conclusion:*

Using the reverse glue joint on edges be it at zero or 90 degree works well, and if you are using it table mounted you can set the fence so there is zero timber removal when doing the face, otherwise that's why there is a bearing fitted to the bit


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Reverse Glue joint at 90 deg Aug 2013*
> 
> Before dismantling my shaper I decided to do some more 90 degree reverse glue joint work.
> 
> ...


Enjoying this series.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Painters Tape Test Sample*

If you read my project post "Aurora's Lunch Caddy" you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.

So I checked it out on the net, not only did I find the tape I also saw some chevron tape as well both of which I would be interested to "Test Out"

I found Masters (an Ozzie version of Lowes) stock the product so I hopped off to purchase some.
Well sure enough there it was,
Green multi-surface "FROGTAPE" what a strange colour! 
along with some,
Yellow Delicate Surface FROGTAPE, an even stranger colour!, tape as well but no chevron tape (boo hiss)

Any way after reading up on the product I see its designed specifically for latex paint and the green is mediun adhesion and the yellow low adhesion.

I purchased both and frogged it back home.

I set up a test block of ply the same as I used on the caddy.

Keeping in mind the Black dye is mineral based, this was my test setup

a piece of ply
1 x wad/pad
1 x bristle brush
1 x strip of my existing Blue painters tape 3M 2093 (Reported to be for mineral based paint)
1 x strip of my existing Green painters tape Shurtape CP150 ( reported to be suitable for all paints lacquers and varnishes)








I applied the tape and used the pad to apply the dye 
The pad test section is the horizontal section
Removed the tape and it was almost perfect! what could have gone wrong?

So I retaped the ply and used the bristle brush, removed the tape and there was the bleeding again.

The brush test section is the two squares.

Here is a close up shot









Flipping the ply over I applied the Green FROGTAPE and repeated the process.
The left section is the pad and the right the brush










*Conclusion:*

Trying to dye timber with a high contrast mineral based dye and expecting a delineated line is pushing the envelope.
From my tests it can be done with a pad but do not expect the same results with a brush.

I will do some more checking for a better painters tape specifically for mineral based paint.
I expect there will be a product somewhere but as for tape suitable for dye I would have say, "Your Dreaming"

*Solution: *

Dye the material before fit up.

Enjoy. or have a good laugh !!


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## badcrayon (Jun 1, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test Sample*
> 
> If you read my project post "Aurora's Lunch Caddy" you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
> Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.
> ...


I did some art panel a while ago that had a similar problem . I ended up sealing the surface with sanding sealer than taping it up and spraying on the stain from a distance. The result was crisp lines I'm sure classicly trained wood finishers will cringe but I got the effect I wanted.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test Sample*
> 
> If you read my project post "Aurora's Lunch Caddy" you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
> Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.
> ...


Hey Rob, I've got a bunch of sample strips that look like that myself. Aniline dyes tested under different conditions.
Not using tape but maybe you'd be interested in my results in this blog. 
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/6664


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## nailbanger2 (Oct 17, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test Sample*
> 
> If you read my project post "Aurora's Lunch Caddy" you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
> Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.
> ...


The problem isn't what kind of tape you're using. It's the fact that whatever dye or stain you use goes around (under) the tape. Frog tape does work great with paint, and it's worth the money in some cases. The blue tape is for extended periods of time, which all depends on the condition of the substrate. I'm much more likely to use brown masking and sticking it to my shirt first.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test Sample*
> 
> If you read my project post "Aurora's Lunch Caddy" you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
> Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.
> ...


I agree with Nailbanger2, tape is not the issue.

The pours and the grain will dictate the line (spread of the dye)


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test Sample*
> 
> If you read my project post "Aurora's Lunch Caddy" you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
> Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.
> ...


Three votes that the stain is soaking THROUGH the grain of the wood.
I actually use that effect when I'm finishing some of my turnings. I put the piece in a vacuum vessel filled with polyurethane and pull a vacuum. The air bubbles out of the piece, then the poly flows back in when I release the vacuum, all done through capillary action of the wood grain.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Painters Tape Test No 2*

I conducted a second test with wood dye after reading a post by badcrayon suggesting using Sanding Sealer to assist in masking the dye area.

Here are the results I obtained.

*Picture No 1:* The product used and the test Sample










*Picture No 2:* Sanding sealer applied below the first tape










*Picture No 3:* The first tape relocated to the top of the sealer edge










*Picture No 4:* A second tape applied to bare timber above the test area.










*Picture No 5:* The dye applied with a pad/wad.










*Picture No 6:* The results with both tapes removed from the test area.










*Conclusion:*

Looks like the application of sanding sealer in conjunction with Painters Tape is effective in preventing weeping and produces a far better result than any painters tape used on its own from the stocks I have used.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test No 2*
> 
> I conducted a second test with wood dye after reading a post by badcrayon suggesting using Sanding Sealer to assist in masking the dye area.
> 
> ...


If you were to introduce a small groove an incision actually on the line it effectively stops the intrusion of dye to the unwanted area. I used this method on the Woodwhisper rocking horse build with great success.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test No 2*
> 
> I conducted a second test with wood dye after reading a post by badcrayon suggesting using Sanding Sealer to assist in masking the dye area.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much for your scientific testing; it'll come in handy.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test No 2*
> 
> I conducted a second test with wood dye after reading a post by badcrayon suggesting using Sanding Sealer to assist in masking the dye area.
> 
> ...


OK Thanks Jumbojack,

The result looks like a good result there, standby for test No 3


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Painters Tape Test No 2*
> 
> I conducted a second test with wood dye after reading a post by badcrayon suggesting using Sanding Sealer to assist in masking the dye area.
> 
> ...


Thnk you and jumbojack for you tests and info


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final*

OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye.

He (I assume Jumbojack is male otherwise apologies on the gender slipup) has added a comment and photos supporting his method on the previous Tool tip # 5 worth and well worth further investigation.

So here we go (and this is the last in the Dye Painters Tape series)

I set up another test sample, I needed to delineated the area so I drew a semi circle on two areas to be tested, this is purely for the ability to see where the score section is.

*Picture No 1 The test area set out*










I again used black dye the worst case test, for timber dye.

After drawing in the two test areas I used my hobby knife set to score the line into the pencil arc.
As I haven't used my Hobby knives for some time this was a bit tricky for me but I managed it without too much difficulty.

*Picture No 2 The right hand semi circle scored*










I then used a brush, again a worst case process for applying the dye to each test ares.
I started at the left and finished on the right hand side.
*
Picture No 3 The final results.*










*Conclusion:*

There is no doubt scoring the timber works and limits the penetration of the dye.

Care must be taken to ensure there is only a minimal amount of dye on the brush otherwise weeping will occur which is avoidable if practice runs on test areas are conducted.

Enjoy ….I am off the fire up the BBQ for a snack!!


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## SirFatty (May 5, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final*
> 
> OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye.
> 
> ...


what was the snack? Cocktail weenies?


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final*
> 
> OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye.
> 
> ...


I have tried this too Robert. I turned a small vessel and made a lot of scored rings on it, then vertical lines, also scored, to leave many small rectangles. The rectangles were then colored in different colors to make some patterns. I used felt tipped pens to do the coloring (the cheap kind for kids with a narrow tip on one end and a wide one on the other. It came out great with no transfers at all.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final*
> 
> OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye.
> 
> ...


In science, some sacrifices must be made.
Perhaps you can use some 'hide' glue to reattach the finger.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final*
> 
> OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye.
> 
> ...


For some reason, I'm thinkin …......... chicken fingers fer lunch


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final*
> 
> OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye.
> 
> ...


Once you loose the fingernail you might as well get rid of the rest of the finger.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Check out these monsters*

Round Over bits 2, 2.5 and 3" ebay $14 to $16 free delivery, (takes a while) but worth the wait.

Awaiting delivery of the 3" 
However here is a test run of the 2.5 in action

Picture 1, Tool set up Guards and etc removed as per the usual. I needed to do a glue up the get the size of 64mm approx.









Picture 2. Work in progress.









Picture 3. Trimmed and finished









Picture 4. A close up of the symmetry.









Picture 5. ebay details showing the item, the costs, delivery and the supplier









A good purchase I thought hence the share.
Beats paying $50 upwards! durability well we shall see.
Resharpening costs,...why would you bother!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Check out these monsters*
> 
> Round Over bits 2, 2.5 and 3" ebay $14 to $16 free delivery, (takes a while) but worth the wait.
> 
> ...


a good deal there robert

i have had from 1/16r to 1 1/2r for years
you are right about the sharpening 
or even the quality
most don't get used but for a few minuets 
every year or so

the ones i do use most
(1/8r - 1/4r)
i replace as they wear out

unless you are going to use them in a production setting
why spend hundreds on them


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Check out these monsters*
> 
> Round Over bits 2, 2.5 and 3" ebay $14 to $16 free delivery, (takes a while) but worth the wait.
> 
> ...


Great value for the money. And as David said if they are not being used in a production setting they should last a long long time. They can be sharpened with a diamond file if need be. A good investment for all of your router bits.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Plastic spring hand Clamps*

These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.

I was making some veneer inlay strips and decided to use them to clamp the work whilst the glue dried.

Well to my surprise they began snapping in various areas.










The failures ranged from the tip right back to the pivot point, very odd to say the least.

As I had finished work for the day and I was about to bin them when I decided to dismantle them and make two sets from four.

Well that was a interesting exercise in wasting time I tell you.
I don't know how they were assembled in the first instance but the spring is so strong it is almost impossible to reassemble them, any way I tried but was not able to get them back together safely so in the bin they went.

Why did they break in the first place, I cannot identify one single cause apart from plastic fatigue.
Maybe the UV may have weakened them who knows.

They are almost a consumable item cost wise so I was not too concerned.

I also had a plastic F Clamp break as well some time ago just goes to show the plastic used does not stand up to the force capable of being applied to them in normal use.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


Consumable indeed… lots of these cheap tools are of limited use… and in time need to be binned…


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


I always buy small spring clamps made from metal. The larger plastic spring clamps seem ok though.


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


Why did they break, check their country of origin. I've gone thru a few of the plastic hand clamps also. Strictly use the metal clamps now.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


I've had cheap ones break like this right out of the box. UV light is not the issue. The other clamp that is crap is the cheap ones that are trigger clamps. You squeeze them by pumping a trigger lever. They usually have a plastic pivot point. Not worth the shipping.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


Bought a couple of sets that look like those, from Lee Valley, only lost one to breakage.
And that was an extreme situation, using it to hold a tarp/awning for my trailer in high winds, snapped one leg off the clamp but the other 8 or so in use survived undamaged.


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## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


I have also had problems with this type of clamp, usually it is the jaws that break.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


I too have had these clamps break on me. I have another brand of plastic spring clamp that has held up very well for several years.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Plastic spring hand Clamps*
> 
> These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications.
> 
> ...


I have 8 of the metal ones and two of the Craftsman plastic ones which are hard to use because of the enormous spring tension and my RA. But they have not failed!

It could be shoddy plastic or a poor design or perhaps lack of UV inhibitors in the plastic. This is also true of cable ties as the black one are more resistant to UV than the other colors!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Cleaning large Dust Extractors*

I have been working in Sydney with my boys doing electrical work at schools whilst the holidays are on.
One of the tasks was to repair restore broken switches and emergency stops in the wood working shop.

We then had to service the Outdoor Dust Collector/Extractor. (just the job for an electrician!)

Good thing I have an interest in wood working ! otherwise it would have been a "No Way reply!

My son and I accepted the task and away we went.

We opened the side access panels of the unit and removed one of the Pocket Filter Cassettes








We then removed the pocket filter frame and withdrew the mesh inserts.








Opened the pocket filters up like a big book and vacuumed them.










All very messy and lots of work.









This led me to ask if we were doing the correct maintenance on these type of equipment.

Small home units no worries empty the bin and shake out the filter bag and reassemble.

However bigger industrial ones were a different matter, The units are very heavy requiring two men to remove the filter Cassettes/modules.

The work definitely needs an open area to work in as it creates massive amount of wood dust in the process.

We dismantled the pockets Frame and mesh separators first up, but later worked out this was unnecessary and they could be laid sideways and vacuumed on the table intact.

After blocking the shop vac a couple of times I used a dust pan and brush to pre clean the pockets, I was removing a pan full of dust from a single side each time.

Does anybody have experience in the correct maintenance procedure for these type DCs?

I looked on the net for service manual or maintenance instruction but there was none found, so I decided to approach the Brains Trust at LJs !!


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Cleaning large Dust Extractors*
> 
> I have been working in Sydney with my boys doing electrical work at schools whilst the holidays are on.
> One of the tasks was to repair restore broken switches and emergency stops in the wood working shop.
> ...


My bet is you will find the recommend practice is to remove and replace the entire filter cassette assemblies. 
They look similar to the "bag" filters we change in hospital air handling units on a regular basis but not as often as the pre-filters. 
I'm sure your method will also produce and acceptable outcome.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Inlay onlay with the Inlay Kit*

This blog is based on using the Inlay Kit of which has been the subject of many reviews so I will not be going into any detailed description of the kit here, just its application a littile out of its intended design.

I was cleaning up and found a short piece of Camphor Laurel timber with a knot hole in it, pretty usless I thought and was going to dump it.

I didnt have much to do this day so put it on the table saw. It was there I noticed it had a massive twist in it also rendering it almost certainly rubbish.

I thought I would see if I could remove the twist as an experiment, no loss iif it didnt work it was off to the bin anyway..

First up I cut off the worst part of the twist and ran the remainder through the table saw to return it to parallel.










Not content with that result I decided to cut the twisted section down and make a medalion to cover the knot hole.

I made a template jig to match the medalion,and then centered it over the knot hole.










Next I used the Inlay kit to route out the base material
Here is the setup with the collar fitted.










If you have one of these kits and wonder where the sipral bit is, well it broke early in the piece when I let the trimmer chatter. A replacement bit was more them a complete kit, so I sourced alternatives, bought four for the price of one.

Be aware they are very easy to break.

Here is the base material routed out










With that done I replaced the medalion in the jig removed the collar and routed the medalion.










Applied a 45 deg chamfer applied some glue and fitted it up.

View No 1








View No 2








View no 3









I was so impressed with the result I did another one just to see if i had fluked it.








View No 4









After a sand.








And after a coat of Orange Oil









A fitting annotation.









*Conclusion:* The Inlay Kit can be used to do medalion work quite sucessfully.
Just ensure you orient the timber grain to 90 deg from the base or any angle to suit I guess!

*Use:* Well it will go back on the shelf and reappear as a box top possibly, I liked the double diamond pattern , I guess because it reminded me of our MZ Force badge.

enjoy.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Inlay onlay with the Inlay Kit*
> 
> This blog is based on using the Inlay Kit of which has been the subject of many reviews so I will not be going into any detailed description of the kit here, just its application a littile out of its intended design.
> 
> ...


Great save Robert and a new weapon in your salvage arsenal.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Inlay onlay with the Inlay Kit*
> 
> This blog is based on using the Inlay Kit of which has been the subject of many reviews so I will not be going into any detailed description of the kit here, just its application a littile out of its intended design.
> 
> ...


nice work.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*

Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.

I did some tests on both at the time, pre May 2014 and I did not see any discernable differences in the expired glue and the fresh batch I had just bought, so both went on the shelf.

There they stayed until today, I was readings Stefangs blog on his home made LHG.

He conducted some strength destruction tests on his batch of glue, and noted LHG had a short shelf life.

So this prompted me to get my lot out again.

Upon checking I found the batch I bought earlier this year had now also expired in May 2014.

I was going to do some more tests to see if there was any difference in the expired batch and current batch but this was not to be the case.

As I was not keen to spend another $14 AUD just to do the tests I decided to use both expired batches, so here we with Part 1 the Glue up and technical information of the products.

Firstly here is a shot of both samples.










and the small print on the back showing the expiry dates.

Bottle B










Bottle A










First up a viscosity or settling test, as this will indicate a problem if there is a vast difference in viscosity.










Glue up Tests

Test 1

I applied a sample of glue









Initally joined together and then separated to check glue spread.










Test 2

I again applied a sample of glue










Then did a glue spread check again.










Test 3

A result of reading the glue should be applied with a heavy spread.










Checking the glue spread again.










Apply clamps for 30 minutes










After 30 minutes had expired I removed the clamps and took another shot of the 
settling sample.

The skin of the glue must have set in the 30 m as there was an ant walking around on the glue, maybe he was a small LJ.










I will now leave them for 24 hours and continue with Test No2 the stress test in 24 hours

Some Preliminary observations/results

It appears the 20/2010 sample B is less viscous (more runny) then the May 2014 Sample A.
This is most evident in the settling sample and in the meniscus of the test samples.


----------



## DAC (Dec 7, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*
> 
> Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.
> 
> ...


did the ant live?


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*
> 
> Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.
> 
> ...


Keep us apprised


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*
> 
> Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.
> 
> ...


DAC

The ant lived… the hide of him walking all over my project !!

NormG

Will do stay tuned.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*
> 
> Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.
> 
> ...


This is interesting Robert. I do like the idea that my homemade LHG will not go out of date and I think the longer clamping time is a price worth paying. I would of course think differently if I were using LHG on a frequent basis, but as an infrequent user I would find it very inconvenient to reach for a product and find that it is outdated. Looking forward to seeing the final result of your tests.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*
> 
> Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.
> 
> ...


Mike,

I checked out when I bought the LHG, it looks to be Nov 2013 when I was working on the Curved Front Box project that I was posting as progress blogs.

So knowing that date it appears the the shelf life for LHG is only about 6 months.

I will have to get onto the titebond site and check, but regardless it a pretty poor shelf life.

Amazing how time goes by I didnt think it was so long ago, I had better get it out and do some more work on it.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1*
> 
> Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another.
> 
> ...


I just checked Titebonds web site the spec sheet for LHG specifies 12 months as long as the cap is on tight.

So knowing that and the fact I purchased it in Nov 2013 it should still be in date shelf life wise.

So its anybodys guess how long it had been sitting on the shelf possibly since May 2013 six months before I purchased it.

Buyer beware !


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Liquid Hide Glue expired no good Pt 2 Stress test results*

OK its 24 hr plus and the LHG test results are in.

*Shear Test Method:*
All I did was hold each of the ends and pull them apart in line with the glue joint, very scientific.
However there were some surprising results observed.

*LHG Test piece 1. Medium amount of glue*









*
Results:*
The A sample broke shearing wood and glue
The B sample broke very easly and indicated a glue failure, no surprises there.

*Observations:*
As expected the B sample glue failed and failed very early in relation to effort required to break it.
The A sample held quite well and exibited some glue and timber failure.

*Conclusion:*
Throw the Sample B LHG bottle in the bin.

*LHG Test piece 2. an additional amount of glue used.*










*
Results:*
Both the A and B sample broke equally, and exibited similar failure characteristics intrestingly enough the B sample looked no different to the A sample this time.

*Observations:*
Upon closer examation of the test samples there is clear evidence that a majority of the glue has failed in both tests.
There is also evidence of wood failure however this wood failure is of a smaller percentage as opposed to glue failure.

*Conclusion:*
Throw both LHG Bottles in the bin.

*
LHG Test piece 3 . A heavy spread application of glue used,as per manufacturers recommendations.*










*Results:*
The B sample broke however I was unable to break the A sample in my bare hands. (standard test procedure)

*Observations:*
There is no doubt the additional amount of glue contributed to the strength of the joint.
The length of the test samples are slightly shorter than those in test 1 and 2 but I dont think this produced a major difference in results.
Sample B exibited a majority of glue failure again, there is some timber failure but again its a small percentage compared to that of the glue joint.
Using a "heavy Application"of glue contributed to its strength.
I dont believe anything else would be achieved in breaking the A sample just for the test as it would be a different breaking strain required.

*Conclusion:*
Throw the Sample B LHG bottle in the bin, and be very suspect of sample A.

*The Setting Test *









The A Sample









The B Sample









*Results:*
The glue formed a tack free to touch within 30minutes.
Overnight the glue had set without any more spread
I pushed my finger into both samples as a test, there was little or no depression on Sample A however Sample B showed a slight depression indicating the glue had not set correctly

*Conclusion: *
Throw the Sample B LHG bottle in the bin.

*Findings:*
LHG has from the manufacturer a shelf life of 12 months.
This is effectively an unopened bottle condition.
Application of LHG should be confined to specific projects and strict observation of the life after opening.
Both samples although each were out of date anyway exibited a high percentage of glue failure and should be discarded.

LHG should be purchased for specific task/project then discarded if not completly used in the imediate future.
This in itself makes the glue possibly a very expensive comodity if not all used at once.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good Pt 2 Stress test results*
> 
> OK its 24 hr plus and the LHG test results are in.
> 
> ...


Very interesting Robert. I will stick with my homemade version of LHG since it is well preserved with salt and therefore has no expiry date.

Your results showing that more glue equals more strength is contrary to my own results, so I will test to see if I get the same results again with my homemade LHG.

Of course for someone who uses a lot of glue more or less continually the commercial LHG would still be a good option, especially if his glue ups require a long open time, but maybe not for those who don't.

I love this kind of testing because while it is not scientific they do probably reflect what actually goes on in our shops.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good Pt 2 Stress test results*
> 
> OK its 24 hr plus and the LHG test results are in.
> 
> ...


Very interesting!

Can you narrow the Failed tests resulting in Discards down to Specific Time Frames, etc.?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Liquid Hide Glue expired no good Pt 2 Stress test results*
> 
> OK its 24 hr plus and the LHG test results are in.
> 
> ...


Joe,

I trolled through my invoices but could not find definative time I made purchases in relation to LHG, so:

From what I can work out the following is reasonably accurate

I made an original purchase about 2009 of Titebond liquid Hide glue

I did some experimental test but never posted them, They were a disaster.
Read as, I did no know what I was doing.

This glue then expired 2010. I didnt have the opportunity to use it again until 2013 then I was working on my Curved Front Box and found it had expired so I bought another bottle which must have been late 2013 or early 2014.

I did some tests then to determine if the glue was OK but again did not post the results.

I was only after reading Stefangs posts on his home brew glue I again showed interest in LHG.

I know Shipwright, Paul has posted some blogs on both LHG and HHG work in which he has detailed very accurately the requirements to be able to use and manage HHG.

I would consider myself as an amature in this field hence the excitment in using and testing glues of which some would consider Ho hum.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Cutting roof ridge capping on the Table Saw*

In Dec 2013 I made a wooden Mower Shed from recycled materials.

In that construction I did not make or fit ridge capping to the roof.

I have just completed the second "Mower Shed" and due process has taken place and I have made some improvements.
Namely the fittment of custom made ridge capping.










This is how I did it:

First up select some suitable material for your Ridge Capping.










The standard roof pitch here is 20 to 30 degrees, so I chose 22.5 deg as my roof pitch angle.

So first up I set my table saw to 22.5 degrees.










As we are going to make non through cuts and also working with small material the saw guard and splitter was removed.

You will not see it in the pictures but I replaced the saw guard with a face shield, which was on my head!










*A word of warning to those not familar with the dangers of timber off cut projectile effect.*

This process presents a danger to the operator if that if the position their body is in line with the saw blade and fence as the off cut timber trapped between the blade and the fence is produced it will eject with enough force to injure you!
One of the perils of a right tilting saw blade.










I am not saying it will completley penetrate the operator and come out the back but not lets have any any injuries please!










Stand to the side, or the back of the saw when using this process.

OK with the safety aspects covered here we go.

The first cut, The height is set by measuring a half way point on the timber, and setting the blade height, and be aware after the first cut this may have to be adjusted to ensure correct positioning, so you may choose to use a test piece first up.
Secondly the thickness is determined by the amount of stand off of the blade in relation to the distance to the fence.










A note: Cut 1 and 2 present no projectile hazard situations and are safe for all operators, its cut No 3 and No 4 where care must be taken.










After cut No 1 is completed commence cut No 2 by simply inverting the material.
Upon commencing cut No 2 verification of the correct height must be conformed otherwise over cutting or undercutting will occur.

*Undercutting:* Requires the blade to be raised and the process repeated.

*Overcutting:* May ruin the material at the finished product.










As cut No 2 is completed the waste material will simply fall away in position.










Its a bit obsqured but I am using a push stick to move the material.

After resetting of the saw blade its time for Cut No 3 and No 4. Dont be surprised if the blade may be in the fence.

Cut No 3 is commenced.

Cut No 3 requires some table saw compentency skills here now as the operator will be at the back of the saw in part of the process.

This serves two purposes:
1 It removes any possible risk of operator impailment, and allows 
2 Management of the process.










As the material is fed into the saw the operator moves from the front of the saw to the back, this allows control of both the Ridge capping being cut and the hazardous off cut.










Now at the back










Dependent of you being left or right handed the hands will change to suit.










Once the No 3 cut is complete invert the material again and repeat the process for cut No 4

Its the base material that has not been cut which maintains the stability and accuracy of the cuts.










Keeping this in mind and the fact that the operator is standing to the rear or side of the saw there is a possibility the very end of the ridge capping will/may have a taper in it, if the material is over length to start with simply just cut it off.










*Remember the projectile hazard!*










In closing if you have any concerns in making Ridge Capping using this method *do not do it.*

Go buy some from your local timber supplier.

enjoy


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting roof ridge capping on the Table Saw*
> 
> In Dec 2013 I made a wooden Mower Shed from recycled materials.
> 
> ...


sweet.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting roof ridge capping on the Table Saw*
> 
> In Dec 2013 I made a wooden Mower Shed from recycled materials.
> 
> ...


This looks very good Robert. Another method for those who are not comfortable cutting this on the table saw is to nail the edge of a board of the appropriate length to the face of another board about 1/2" below the edge of the face board. Rain can't get into the joint that way.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting roof ridge capping on the Table Saw*
> 
> In Dec 2013 I made a wooden Mower Shed from recycled materials.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike,

its a bit of a complicated process and I had reservations on posting as well but in the end it's Just another job the humble table saw can do !!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting roof ridge capping on the Table Saw*
> 
> In Dec 2013 I made a wooden Mower Shed from recycled materials.
> 
> ...


Very good!

Thank you!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Wood Polishing*

I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.

The timber is recycled Jarrah

Riddled with nails screws and bolts.

This image shows a before and after shot of some timber.










Now a series of rotated images










and again



















All well and good you may say but how was it done?

Firstly ensure you have a saw blade…...

*Opps Looks like some of the blog has disappered, My sincerest apologies to those reading and wondering why the blog stopped suddenly !!*

*So continuing on:*

......capable of cutting nails fitted to the saw, I am not saying to deliberately cut them but it may happen and you wouldn't want to ruin a good blade in the process.

I then cut off a end section of the pallet bearer, keeping in mind the timber is not the "normal" pallet timber.

It's Australian hardwood Jarrah.

I tried to remove the nails but is was not to be so.

I then Knocked out and kept the broken off bolt.
With my disc Sander sanded I then sanded the material back so it was square.
I then sanded on the chamfers.

The block is now sanded to about 60 Grit

The broken bolt was replaced.

Next up I setup my polishing motor and with a calico buff and some Pale green compound (originally sold as compound for polishing Stainless Steel)
Began to polish all the sides, upon completion I used a Terry towel cloth to remove most of the compound residue.

As you can see in the pictures any gaps still have the compound present.

At this stage I do not know how to get it out maybe PASs or some othere LJ polishers can provide some input here.

Later tried to improve the finish by using furniture polish on the block but it did not provide any improvement on the finish.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


OK… I give up… how was it done?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


Sorry Joe looks like some of the text "vanished" I have re done it and it continues and makes sence from the Bold text.

Why it happened who knows


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


nice work.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


Always something to learn


----------



## Lignamatic (Aug 16, 2014)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


Have you tried a rotary brush on a drill or Dremel tool to try getting the compound out of the crevices? I have used this with moderate success to get dried paste wax out of crevices in carvings. It's hard to get it all out. The only wax that doesn't want to stay is pigmented wax that I use to try to antique carvings. If I want it to stay put, then it seems to come out easily. BTW, I really like jarrah. I've never worked it, but it has such a rich look.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


Hell *rc*, published in 2014… didn't realise you were still alive back then… must have perfected your mushroom disguise … and kept yourself in the dark…
As an aside… was interested when it was dictated to me (yeah still hated reading back then) that you only got to 60… cheese… all these figures get me confused…


> ..... This image shows a before and after shot…..
> - robscastle


Hell you have talent, old man… both a before and after image in the same photo… WOW! Maybe some black market computers followed the cane toads into Queensland back then.


> ..... I tried to remove the nails but is was not to be so…..
> - robscastle


Know a few good Spaniards… in fact I often share a beer with *Tomás (de Torquemada* for all you non-Christians) who could help you with the removal of your nails…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Wood Polishing*
> 
> I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out.
> 
> ...


2012 in fact 
Posted my first excellent project soon after.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flattening Timber*

This is a topic just about flogged to death everywhere by lots of very knowledgable woodworkers. so I thought I should give it a go if only to exercise all the effort so many woodworkers have put into demonstrating the various methods and practices.

So here we go:

I was fortnunate enough to get a couple of small pieces of Water/Swamp Gum today.










I brought it all inside and had a good look at it








There are six pieces all up



















One had a lot of twists and was just about small enought to fit into my thicknesser so I cut it up into useable sizes, one to see if I could remove the twists and two to see what the timber looked like finished.

The piece on the right was my first run










The twist was the worst in this piece so I took to it with my Arbour tec planner to get it to a reasonable working flatness.










The finished result was so good I decided to do the other two,










Without boring everybody too much here are some progress photos:
Side 1 first run








Side 1 complete









Side 2 first run









Side 2 progress, I added this as the final photo is blured and the features spoiled.









Side 2 complete










I then did a third run and finished up with these pieces.









Surprisingly easy to flatten the twists.

Final thickness:

There is a slight variation in the final finished three pieces but generally for the second and third run there was about 6mm removed from each side.

The first one is thinner and it looks to have had up to 8 to 10mm per side removed so there is a massive timber loss flattening badly twisted timber.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Flattening Timber*
> 
> This is a topic just about flogged to death everywhere by lots of very knowledgable woodworkers. so I thought I should give it a go if only to exercise all the effort so many woodworkers have put into demonstrating the various methods and practices.
> 
> ...


Twist can be unfun. That looks like some nice lumber you got there Robert and the planing went well.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Flattening Timber*
> 
> This is a topic just about flogged to death everywhere by lots of very knowledgable woodworkers. so I thought I should give it a go if only to exercise all the effort so many woodworkers have put into demonstrating the various methods and practices.
> 
> ...


Very nice "small" pieces.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pull saw at work*

I have a small pull saw and its a great asset in the wood tool kit.
Today I was making a Walnut Key Holder and in the production of it I needed to cut a small piece from the key to square off the key stop. 
As it was right in the radius of the key slot I decided to see if my pull saw would do the job.










This is a close up of the final result.










I was very happy with the result, and with a little sanding later it will look OK.

So there you have it a pull saw at work and the results achieved.

So if you were thinking of adding a Pull Saw to the tool kit, simple job to help you decide.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pull saw at work*
> 
> I have a small pull saw and its a great asset in the wood tool kit.
> Today I was making a Walnut Key Holder and in the production of it I needed to cut a small piece from the key to square off the key stop.
> ...


Well done Robert and a good suggestion. I have some Japanese pull saws and I find them very handy at times.


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Pull saw at work*
> 
> I have a small pull saw and its a great asset in the wood tool kit.
> Today I was making a Walnut Key Holder and in the production of it I needed to cut a small piece from the key to square off the key stop.
> ...


Cool.

Bob.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Pull saw at work*
> 
> I have a small pull saw and its a great asset in the wood tool kit.
> Today I was making a Walnut Key Holder and in the production of it I needed to cut a small piece from the key to square off the key stop.
> ...


You Pulled off a good one this time! * LOL*


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pull saw at work*
> 
> I have a small pull saw and its a great asset in the wood tool kit.
> Today I was making a Walnut Key Holder and in the production of it I needed to cut a small piece from the key to square off the key stop.
> ...


great job.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Chisel Tune Up*

I have been reading a FWW Magazine of which had heaps of articles of interest, one of those was an artice on Hollow Chisel Mortisers (HCM)

I had been making some M&T joints and a minature stair rail with my HCM.
The stair rail



















The scale and Chisel size may not be the best and the M&T were garbage (NWP)

With the very unsatisfactory results I decided to do more research and checked out some LJ Blogs/reviews.
It seems HCM do not get rave reviews for all sorts of operational reasons.

However a common viewpoint almost every where was that the chisels need to be lapped and resharpened before use.

I had done this with mine when I first bought it but decided to revisit the procedure again.

I had two chisels of the same size so I used one as a comparasion as I reworked the other one.

I used a four sided diamond hone labeled 200,300,400 and 600,and grey polishing compound on the Auger flutes.

*This is what the surface improvement looked like.*

I started on the chip opening side first and progressed around the chisel, its fairly obvious the rework is on the left, and you can still see my previous lap work on the right chisel.










*Next side 2* Again its visible the additional work was required










*Then side 3* Much the same result here.










*and finally side 4* possibly not quite as much variation here.










the Auger exposed is definately shiner and smoother.










The process took me about 1 hour using the diamond stone in a water bath.

*Conclusion:* Is it all worth the effort? Well the surface is certainly smoother so binding should be reduced.

I will do a comparasion test soon using both chisels (and buy some dry Lube as well) and report back soon.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Chisel Tune Up*
> 
> I have been reading a FWW Magazine of which had heaps of articles of interest, one of those was an artice on Hollow Chisel Mortisers (HCM)
> 
> ...


It will be interesting to see what result you get after these improvements Rob.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Chisel Tune Up*
> 
> I have been reading a FWW Magazine of which had heaps of articles of interest, one of those was an artice on Hollow Chisel Mortisers (HCM)
> 
> ...


Hey Mike,

While I was trolling through blogs and reviews I found a blog by you about LJs first names, it made we wonder how "Do not resusitate" relates to "stefang", so I decided to Google it but found no intelegent answers


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Chisel Tune Up*
> 
> I have been reading a FWW Magazine of which had heaps of articles of interest, one of those was an artice on Hollow Chisel Mortisers (HCM)
> 
> ...


Waiting for the next episode …


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Chisel Tune Up*
> 
> I have been reading a FWW Magazine of which had heaps of articles of interest, one of those was an artice on Hollow Chisel Mortisers (HCM)
> 
> ...


Remember to use a cone sharpener too! It makes all the difference, kind of like lapping the back of a bench chisel.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Tune up More Preparation work*

After completing lapping and polishing all the Hollow Chisel (HC) external surfaces it was time to go inside.
It was a pretty ugly view I tell you.










A very rough surface finish indeed, so out with the paper and dowel stick, (now this is OK for 5/8 1/2 and 3/8 but below that its very tricky so I used a dremmel. (Psst its really and Ozito Knock off)

My first results with paper were encouraging but very slow going so I fitted up the dremell with some stones and tried that. A much better result however the metal was eating the pink composition wheels as fast as.
I wasnt too concerned as they wore away I worked out how the smaller chisels would be done!










The brown composition wheel showed very little wear so it was not going to reduce as fast. So it was only suitable for a couple of HCs.










Here is a couple of shots of the pink composition










After all that a good wash and inspection showed great results, well at least they looked good.

*Conclusion*:-

*Some observations I made along the way*
nbeener has posted an almost similar process, Neil I think found the same info as I.

The augers have a tendency to suffer from run out especially the smaller ones 1/4 and so on.
This is no big deal as long as you use the HC to align your work instead of the auger point.
They can be corrected by some careful bashing, but I doubt I could get zero runout.
Trying to find a 5/8 suitable diamond cone hone is almost impossible so I was unable to hone the 5/8 at this stage.

Ready for testing.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*

I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions

A piece of softwood and a piece of hardwod was used,
The gap between the auger and Hollow Chisel (HC) was 2.5mm in each test
A test instrument for automotive testing was used to measure temperature with a K type thermocouple
A luggage scale and chain was used for the force tests.

The test results are approximate only and are subject to human variations but I did my best to replicate identical conditions as much as possible.

*So here we go.*

Test 1 is with an unlapped and unpolished 3/8 HC
Test 2 is with a lapped and polished 3/8 HC

I used my phone to take the pictures as I ran the tests so they are all raw data shots so please bear with the blurring and framing.

*Test 1 softwood*

Two mortises were cut

The effort in kgs to do this varied from 9.5 kgs to 12 kgs
The temperature at the tip of the HC at completion was about 67deg C










































*Test 2 Softwood same material*

Two mortices were cut

The effort in kgs to do this varied from 9.2 to 9.7 kgs 
The temperature at the tip of the HC at completion was about 50deg C


























*Test 1 Hardwood*

Only one mortise was completly cut due to the HC blocking with chips, To remove the chisel and reset everything was not considered worthwile

The effort in kgs to do this varied from 14.2 to 16 kgs 
The temperature at the tip of the HC at completion of only one complete mortice was about 70.4 deg C


























*Test 2 Hardwood same material*

Two mortises were cut

The effort in kgs to do this varied from 15.8 kgs to 17.4 kgs
The temperature at the tip of the HC at completion was about 59 deg C


























*Observations:*

The effort to cut the mortices appeared to be less (by feel alone) however the results for hardwood show differently.
The effort to withdraw the HC was certainly improved to the extent no jambing in both materials at all occured after lapping the sides.

Apperance of the finished mortise.
As the mortices were individual cuts only this was not assessed.
Temperature: There is a measurable reduction in temperature after lapping.

*Conclusion:*

Was it all worthwile? I would say for somebody who does mortises on a regular basis most certainly.
For those of us which the use is less fequent I would also say yes, conditionally on how much pride you take in your work and maintenance of your tools.

I should try and get Mathias to rig up some proper test rigs to accurately validate the work, he would possibly get a real kick out of it too!

Enjoy


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...


Very cool write-up. I'm in the process of sharpening/polishing my hollow chisels and found it an interesting read. Did you use a cone to sharpen the one chisel before lapping/polishing? If not, I'd be curious to know how that effects the results.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...


Good work there! Numbers rather than just opinions.

??? But what is an "HC"?

-Paul


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...





> ??? But what is an "HC"?


Hollow chisel.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...


I really enjoyed reading this. Especially with the large chisels (I have a 3/4" chisel) they need to be razor sharp on hardwoods. 
I wonder how a sharpening cone would change your findings.
I use Lee Valley sharpening cones, which sell for $11 per pair. The set includes a coarse and fine cone. 
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=41702&cat=1,180,42240,53317,41702









Thanks for posting this.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...


Great test and write-up Rob. Those LV cones look like the way to go for sharpening, so easy and quick.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...


Thanks fellow LJs, some replies to address the questions:

*BinghamtonEd*

Ed
Yes a non diamond cone was used to sharpen all but the 5/8 and the "As bought" 3/8 tested in the unlapped condition.
It will get the same workover soon.

I need to add a Supplementary Information blog to the series as there is more interesting (if you have a HCM) to come.

*Ocelot*

Paul
When I decided to try and share the information I wondered just how I could provide any creditability to my findings.
So that is where the odd pieces of test equipment came into play.
Imagine if there were no photos at all, the results would be challengable to say the least. Its very crude but shows visual evidence to some extent.

I see Ed has provided the answer to my unvalidated abbreviations. I have also edited the text to explain what HC referes to in the first instance. Sorry about that, I sit here writing info and blissfully aware of what I am "on about" neglecting to consider that others may well not know exactly what I am thinking, is stems from time in the ARMY and their excessive use of Jargon, i.e. M60 for instance.

It can refer to a mine, a Tank, a machine Gun and an electric gatling gun, That I know of would you believe!!

*pintodeluxe*

Willie
I will have to see if Leevalley will ship to Australia as my attempts to locate a diamond cone here has been unsussesfull to date. I do have a "countersink type sharpener, and again its the addition information I need to add to complete the series.

*stefang*

Mike
Thanks for the comments, and agree locating a stone is certainly worthwile and an ongoing activity


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results*
> 
> I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions
> 
> ...





> ??? But what is an "HC"?
> 
> Hollow chisel.
> 
> - BinghamtonEd


Thanks. I was going to guess "holddown clamp".

-Paul


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hollow Chisel Mortiser Tune Up Pt3*

*Hollow Chisel Mortiser (HCM) Tune Up Part 3*

Well its been a long time coming for part 3 mainly because the HCM does not get much continual use, however because my No 4 son Toby asked for some more clothes dryers for his friends the HCM was brought out to do the job and it prompted me to finish the HCM Tune up blog series, so here we go.

*Some Background*

*The project *
The knock apart dryers have pegged mortices on the posts and shouldered tenons on the rails at each end.










The Hollow Chisel Mortiser (HCM)










Is a bench top model and has a capacity up to 5/8 or 16mm chisels

*Accessories *

The chisel set consists of five HC 1/4 inch, 5/16 inch, 3/8 inch, 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch 
The sharpening Kit comprises of a HSS six flute cone reamer and four guide pins 1/4 inch, 5/16 inch, 3/8 inch, and 1/2 inch only. Notice the absence of a 5/8 guide.

Hollow Chisel Mortiser (HCM) Tune Up Part 3

OK now on with the tune up, first up thanks for all the feedback and suggestions provided regarding the chisel will benefit by sharpening the bevel.

My attempts to buy a diamond cone sharpening set locally were still unsuccessful so I settled for a HSS version. Personally I think this type falls short of the diamond set mainly because of the inability to sharpen a 5/8 chisel where as the diamond set by design covers all the sizes up to 5/8 I am assuming, (some are only 13mm or ½ inch.
And the quality of finish of diamonds as opposed to the chattering HSS fluted type.










HMC Bevel Angles.

An interesting exercise if nothing else was an attempt to find out before I started what the bevel angle for the cutting edge of a HMC at manufacture was.
There seems to be no design specifications provided.

HMC Sharpening kit Bevel Angles.
I can advise that the cones are 60 degrees so I am assuming the Hollow chisels are all the same, however regardless they are going to end up at 60 deg by default after sharpening.

Out of interest I decided to determine the angle differences, so by applying a marker pen on the cutting surface and doing an initial grind it will hopefully show the result, This is what I found.










It appears to be the same angle as the cutter.










After sharpening the Chisel there will be a slight burr left on the four outside edges. Use this burr as a guide as to how accurately you held the cutter on the chisel.
What you should have is a burr of equal proportions on all four sides.

Notice in my photo the left spur has some dye left on it. As small as it was there was a noticeable difference in the burr profile on this corner, so I repeated the process.

Recommended practices for carrying out this procedure vary considerably from: use only a drill press and vice, to to using a wood brace, then by hand only, and finally with a battery drill.

All very confusing if you are doing it for the first time but be guided first up by the suppliers recommendations then modify it to suit the best result.

To remove the burrs from the outside of the chisel draw the chisel across the diamond stone, Job complete!!

*Additional sharpening*

The cones come in two grits, Coarse 220 and fine 600 the application in sequence is required to achieve a satisfactory result.

There is also thought to filing grooves in the corners of the chisel to assist in chip removal. This was certainly something I was not aware of so I spent some time investigating. There is actually evidence of a patent back in 1929 covering this.

*Have a look at the diagram and in particular fig 7.*










So was it still done today was the next question, with some more research I found an article in the Popular Woodworking Magazine Blog HCM Tune up and again there was a reference to it.

"The last step is to file a notch on each of the inside corners with a triangular file. I wish I could take credit for thinking of this, but it is a feature found on some chisels. I first saw it on the premium chisel set from Lee Valley. Depending on the hardness of the chisel, this filing may take a while, but I think the results are worth it".

This provides some more clearance between the outside of the auger bit and the inside of the chisel. I also think it makes it easier to plunge the corners of the chisel into the wood to start the cut. The benefits of doing this aren't as great as the benefits of smoothing the outside of the chisel, but it doesn't hurt, and in some species of wood may really help.

Also within the Lee Valley site accompanying a set of HCs there was some more info and reason for doing the activity was also documented.

*Relieving Inside Corners*










Even with a finely honed mortising bit you may find that the chisel requires a lot of pressure to penetrate into the wood; particularly hardwood. This can be remedied somewhat by relieving the inside corners of the bit to reduce the wedging action of the chips. This is done with a small, very fine-cut square or round file. Clamp the mortise bit in a vise and stroke toward the inside, removing no more material than illustrated.

The next step was to attempt this relief corner work, with my chisels and available tools I was not able to successfully do it so I ceased work on it. I might add trying to do this on chisles smaller than 5/16 would be almost impossibe at home, in a engineering workshop well maybe.
But its there for information. 
Dont forget, as an aside you may also be able to use the sharpener to resharpen your wad cutters too, sure beats trying keep the outside surface concentric.

*HMC Sharpening the Auger.*

To sharpen the HC auger a flat or triangular file is used much the same as a conventional wood auger.

The HCM auger differs slightly from convention as it only has one cutting edge and cutting spur, in most cases, but it appears from research thet you can buy twin cutters at least however I was unable to find any twin cutter and twin spur versions in my investigations.

*Cutting surfaces *

*One cutting edge and spur*










*Two cutting edges*
Legend has it that if there is two cutting edges it's of an English origin where as if its only one cutter the origin is Taiwanese or Japanese.

I will leave you to form your own opinion here!

No examples two cutting spurs were to be found.

To sharpen the auger simply file the cutting edges on the inside , do not touch the outer edges of auger anywhere.

*Exception*
Polishing the Chisel and Auger.

No doubt you are aware all HCM bits require honing of the business end and sharpening to suit each users requirements before use. This is a one off step which pays dividends later in the life of the HMC.
*
How I did mine.*




























I used a fine linisher belt to remove the grinding marks on the chisel body then a Scotch Brite belt to final polish everything I used the Scotch Brite belt only to polish the auger chip extractors up to the cutting surface.

*Inspect closely the Point of the Auger*
This is an addition point worth mentioning as I had a auger with an off centre filed point. It has a run out of 2mm. this may be of no consequence but reinforces the fact the chisel should always be aligned on the outer edge of the chisel and not the centre point.




























Find an HC you want but the shank is too long? They are designed that way simply cut it to length with a hack saw they are soft in this area.

*Use of Dry Lubricant.*
I did some tests with dry lubricant and it certainly made the extraction easier










*Other modifications.*

I also added a strip of cloth backed grit to the clamp face. I considered doing the back surface of the vice as well but decided against it due to the fact I use the vertical surface for initial setup alignment of the chisel.










*Conclusion:*
Was it all worth it 
This is now up to the user to decide, in my opinion polishing is a must.
If you are not convienced check out the photo of the chisel at the Pt 1 of this series.

Polishing after the square surface on the chisel is purely cosmetic but that was the width of the belt so it got done by default.
A Hollow Chisel Mortiser would have to be the least used tools I have, and is only good for a single use, making square holes. It requires meticulous set up to produce quality work, it's a heavy brute, but when set up and used correctly an irreplaceable tool if you do a lot of mortices. 
Subjectively would I buy another one, the answer would have to be no in my work application. 
Dont get me wrong its now a great little machine, and the more I use it the more I like it.
Having a chuck it could suffice for a single speed drill press.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser Tune Up Pt3*
> 
> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser (HCM) Tune Up Part 3*
> 
> ...


Very interesting…

Thank you for posting it…


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser Tune Up Pt3*
> 
> *Hollow Chisel Mortiser (HCM) Tune Up Part 3*
> 
> ...


Interesting. I have looked at these things before and always though "Well *THAT *is something that would certainly spend all of it's time sitting in a corner" … then I take that money and buy something else. Guess if I did more projects with M & T it might be worth a more serious look.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Drilling Dimples or more correctly Pips in wood*

In my Woodworking adventures I have been attempting to cut Dimples or Pips in wood.

What I have discovered may be of interest.

The various methods I used.
*
1 . Router cove bit in a Radial Arm Drill.*
This worked to a varing degree and gave equally varing results.
However a drill press cannot obtain the RPM expected for routing good results.

*2. Hand held die grinder and carbide bit*
Fail (see the raggedy yellow pip)
Too hard to hold in position










*3. Die grinder in drill Press*
Produced reasonable results but again does not now spin at the accepted speed.
As a result it tends to clog dead center and burns the wood.










*3 HSS rotary rasps*
Fail, again
constantly clogged with wood
almost useless, sorry about that supplier!

So how do you do it with acceptable results.

*Suggestion 1.*
Use a INSTY BIT (If you can buy one)










*Suggestion 2.*
Bench mount somehow a carbide die grinder in a drill press, or a dremmel.

*Suggestion 3.*
Grind a twist drill with a curved cutting edge, or

*Suggestion 4*
And possibly the most appropiate these days
Use a CNC


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Drilling Dimples or more correctly Pips in wood*
> 
> In my Woodworking adventures I have been attempting to cut Dimples or Pips in wood.
> 
> ...


Yep, to really get it RIGHT… The CNC approach would be* painless!*

Use a computer program to draw what you want, with dots where you want them… Print it to actual size.

Find someone with a CNC setup & ask if it would be hard to do… (really not very hard)...

BINGO… You supply the wood & he supplies the CNC… You're done…

Then the other challenge will be to paint the dots without messing up everything else…

*Just some thoughts of how it may be done…*
Finish the wood in it's final stain, lacquer, etc., etc. ... Let it cure really good…
Cover the whole thing with a thin good coat of wax…
CNC the Dots into the wood through the wax…
Just slop the Paint enamel over & into all of the dots & finish with lacquer… Let dry really good.
Using Paint Thinner, wipe off all of the wax… lightly sand with a high grit to get it all smooth…
Touch up, etc. as desired…
Cut it all up to get the Dominos… Finish the edges…
*All done.*

*I probably would try the Drill press method & make it work..*. wax a little around each dimple, drill them setting up stops that would cover all dimples in that position, setup for another set of dimples & drill'em, etc. 
With a fine point brush, paint the dimples & let dry real good.
Sand it all smooth for final finishing.
Dab wax into all of the dimples very carefully…
Stain & finish the remaining wood… etc. etc.

Just blabbing off the top of my head… Hope you get some ideas… That work…


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Drilling Dimples or more correctly Pips in wood*
> 
> In my Woodworking adventures I have been attempting to cut Dimples or Pips in wood.
> 
> ...


7 come 11…............Roll Em


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Drilling Dimples or more correctly Pips in wood*
> 
> In my Woodworking adventures I have been attempting to cut Dimples or Pips in wood.
> 
> ...


"3. Die grinder in drill Press
Produced reasonable results but again does not now spin at the accepted speed.
As a result it tends to clog dead center and burns the wood."

If you are going to put a dollop of paint in each pip, the little burn spot wont matter.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Drilling Dimples or more correctly Pips in wood*
> 
> In my Woodworking adventures I have been attempting to cut Dimples or Pips in wood.
> 
> ...


Here's another thought on using that die grinder bit. What if you clamp each domino up on it's SIDE and push it into the side of the cutter? Should get the same pattern (because the cutter bit is round) and it may not clog because gravity will pull the shavings away


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Yonico Router bits*

*This blog although factual is technically incorrect see Yonico Router bits Technical information*

Somebody really goofed with these, apart from the sucker who bought them.

I saw these on ebay










I have some Yonico bits so I was not too concerned, but I should have been starting from the heading.
5x Rail & stile half round, I am not sure how you would use them for Rail & Stile work however the are certainly half round.
Somebody has corrected the heading later in the body of the advertisment to:-
Half round bull nose Set.

The "Set" comes in five individual containers, as shown in the supporting photos
All the containers have no markings whatsoever displayed on them so I set about measuring them so I could mark the containers.
I should never have done that!
I made a total of six measurements, A the shank. B the bearing. C the top edge of the cutter. D1 and D2 the distance of each half round sections, and E the bottom edge of the cutter.
This is what I found,










Apart from the advert stating diameter sizes in two places the sizes are actually the radius measurements.
Secondly there is a variation in the measurements of at least 3mm in Dimension C and dimension E considering they, (in my mind) should be parallel not having a difference of about 3mm its very poor workmanship.

Now looking at the second picture









The shank is shown to be 1.1cm or 7/16 not half an inch thankfully its wrong also.

In my measurements on the left is their reported dimensions (2cm to 3.5cm) on top of each bit Of which I an not really concered as to their width but again would assume both should be at least parallel to each other. 
See the refelected actual measurenets in Columns C and E.

The D1 D2 measurements should be 19.05,15.8, 12.7. 9.5. and 6.35 
the 2.2cm or 3/8 should be 9.5225mm not 8mm otherwise its a ring in!

I am sure somebody has made some real klinkers here or am I just too fussy?

*Some return correspondance*

An up date, I would have thought the 1.1 would be explained away as a typo too,

received a email back saying 1.1cm is 1/2" 
from memory 1.1cm is

0.437 expressed as a decimal or 
7/16 expressed as afraction or 
11.112 if expressed as mm

I also checked one of the other Yonico Bullnose bits I have

Measurement 1










Measurement 2










So confirming the two surfaces are in fact parallel I checked some other non Yonico bulllnose bits still the same parallel surfaces C and E.

So I sent off another email asking about the 8mm as opposed to 9.5mm?

I dont hold too higher expectations as to getting some factual replies but will keep you posted.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico Router bits*
> 
> *This blog although factual is technically incorrect see Yonico Router bits Technical information*
> 
> ...


The important dimensions are what they should be. A will fit a 1/2" chuck D1 & D2 are the same. E and C would only matter if material thickness is at or slightly over D and if so should go up in size anyway.

Yes you may be too fussy.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico Router bits*
> 
> *This blog although factual is technically incorrect see Yonico Router bits Technical information*
> 
> ...


Rob, no you are not too fussy. There is nothing wrong with expecting tools to be sized as promised. Sloppy machining is just that…sloppy.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico Router bits*
> 
> *This blog although factual is technically incorrect see Yonico Router bits Technical information*
> 
> ...


You get what you pay for. Sometimes bargains aren't. 
The 1.1 cm is obviously a typo in the ad, not a hard spec. Typical poorly translated Mandarin. 
The bullnose radius is what you care about. As long as there is 1-2mm on either side the minimum spec is met and any more is uncontrolled. The critical dims all seem to be right.
Sometimes on cheap bits the carbide braze is off, but as long as the balance and final grind is right, who cares?

M


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Yonico router Bits Technical information*

After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.

As it turns out I recieved physically exactly what was advertised, albeit description errors which could be explained away in "translation errors" or possibly more correctly possibly lack of technical knowledge on the matter. (My self included)

So what did I find?

1 Router bits with this type of profile come in two forms or styles.

The first being what we all possibly know as a double bead or a Bullnose Router bit. or simply a Bull nose bit.
A Fairly straight forward Bit having a required radius and two parallel and equal width "wings"

*The Double Bead or Bullnose bit*










The second is a Corner Beading Router bit
This has the required radius again but the "wings are not parallel or equal in width.
The exact reason for this is unknown to me at this stage and I am awaiting an answer

*The Corner Beading Bit*










Both these images are courtesy of CMT.]

Now the Yonico sets

The Bead and Bull nose Bits code 13515










and The Corner beading bits Code 13516










In conclusion two completely different bits two completely different applications

I will add another blog after I use them.


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


I learned something I didn't know before. Thanks, Rob. Now, would you mind 'splainin' the variations on the orgee bit? You know. There's a Roman orgee, and something that's not a Roman orgee. I know that none of the variations involve wearing a toga. Oh. there's something called a "Reverse orgee. I'm not sure I even want to know what that one is.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


COOL information!

Thank you!


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Rob, Many thanks, Your in-depth research has certainly added a great technical knowledge base for several of us LJ's. WOW, whoda known.


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Cheers Robert, I get more confused as the days go on, because I have always referred to this, as a Bullnose bit










But if you Google it, the images show both. I guess it depends where you are from, which doesn't exactly help matters!

Phil


----------



## MagicSawDust (May 27, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. Looking forward to the next installment.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Phil 
That is what I call a cove bit.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


To see the different applications watch this 




but then who cares use them where ever it works in a project your imagination decides .


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Roman Ogee Ogee! not the other.









Gone looking for the reverse Ogee. Romans were a bit funny at times got up to all sorts of strange behaviour possibly the pewter was to blame !


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...





> Phil
> That is what I call a cove bit.
> 
> - kiefer


A core box bit pops into my head for this one.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


I'm confused! So tell me, is this , or is this NOT a bullnose??? 
.
.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Hmmm. no horns, so maybe a cow nose?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Yonico router Bits Technical information*
> 
> After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this "manufacturing Goof" could happen.
> 
> ...


Well if its that big I would be calling it very nicely regardless of what name used


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hollow Chisel Morticer chisel sharpening angles found!*

Well I have eventually tracked down some documented information on the elusive sharpening angles, and the vague references to the mystery two cutting edge type Augers.

This is the latest doctrine available to my knowledge, however as always if I am incorrect please let me know!

*Here we go breaking News!*

Page 135
Note: There is also a reference to enlarging the chip extraction port. (it must have been originally small and evolved to what we see today) possibly from users enlarging them!

Some images of different augers and in particular some with two cutting edges and one with no center tip at all.










Page 136

Here is the cutting angles of the primary 60 deg and a surprise of 80 deg secondary finishing, not that its unexpected but I would doubt if ever done this day.

Also some diagrams on the cutting sequence of which I guess we all know any way, I could have edited it out but it complements the article.










So all you HCM owners its now fact!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Morticer chisel sharpening angles found!*
> 
> Well I have eventually tracked down some documented information on the elusive sharpening angles, and the vague references to the mystery two cutting edge type Augers.
> 
> ...


*Good "FIND"!*

You really had to dig for this one!

Very interesting… A MUST to remember…

Thank you!


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Morticer chisel sharpening angles found!*
> 
> Well I have eventually tracked down some documented information on the elusive sharpening angles, and the vague references to the mystery two cutting edge type Augers.
> 
> ...


I love reading these old articles in Popular Mechanics, I used to have one of those ´standard bits', it gave you a flat bottomed hole, without fear of the brad point coming out of the other side.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Morticer chisel sharpening angles found!*
> 
> Well I have eventually tracked down some documented information on the elusive sharpening angles, and the vague references to the mystery two cutting edge type Augers.
> 
> ...


Hi Phil, its interesting you say that, as there is from what I can see just about every Popular Mechanics mag is available on the net, and the articles are entertaining as well as informative.
Printing went on during WWII as well by the looks.

The brad point on HCM augers is a bit of a waste as its some times its ground off center at manufacture and will cause errors in positioning if used as a reference. 
I should grind one off and do a test run to see if there is any difference, apart from no small hole.

*Check this out as an example.*

Its 1mm off center to the right so 2mm at full rotatation, 2mm over a 10mm bit! either way a poor mortice will result for sure!


----------



## Cliff (Sep 6, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Hollow Chisel Morticer chisel sharpening angles found!*
> 
> Well I have eventually tracked down some documented information on the elusive sharpening angles, and the vague references to the mystery two cutting edge type Augers.
> 
> ...


That's great Rob!!!! Those old magazines had some very surprising gems of information. Thank you for sharing with us.

Regards.

Cliff.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Making Architrave Corner Blocks*

I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.

The router bit I have is called a Dragon Ball and its 2" or 50 mm diameter not some thing you could put in a hand held router.
I initally tried my drill press but it was an outright all round fail, not enough RPM, not enough power, so that idea was scrapped almost as quickly as it started.

I then decided to mount it in my shaper/moulder and try again. As this was almost the opposite setup from before I didnt hold too much hope on it.

Well it actually worked albeit I could not see what I was doing
I checked the Shaper manual to see if there was any reference to the amount of rise and fall of the spindle in relation to the handle rotation, nil and expected as I am using the machine outside its primary design.

With a series of mount ups, cuts and then dismounts and checks I eventually came up with a satisfactory result.

This is the test piece I lashed up as I was concerned about not having enough bulk I had clamps holding it to the fence,and a massive block at the end.










I marked the handle of the moulder with some masking tape as an index and then selected some scrap to do a production run on.

This is the second run setup.
I spaced the material off the top so I could see the setup before turning the machine on










The scrap timber was originally longer and as I cut the profile I cut the completed individual corners off with the saw.

The final result










So I cut a set










The process worked well for soft wood and didnt require too much setting up.
Tearout, looks like I will have to factor in some rejects due to tearout and chattering in the final production run.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


COOL…


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


Look like plain-ish Rosette, Bob….how would they go with so beaut Aussie hardwood??


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


Agree the profile do not do much for me either so I have been looking a various "interesting" other rosette sets.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


*Rob*, as always you are reaching just at the edge of what your tools will do. Be careful and good luck on your other rosette searches. Keep pushing and keep posting. Could you add to the design by mounting them in your lathe and adding a circle or two?


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


I a little dumbstruck as to why you didn't initially go to the shaper/moulder. That's what they're for, innit? All the tea in China won't make a router bit and a drill press play well together. And, B) Those rosettes aren't all that expensive, at HD or Lowe's.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


Mark,
Thanks for rubbing it it I thought the same thing as well!
then add the fact I have only just got off ebay and seen blocks there going for about AUD2.00.

Add up the cost of an more attractive looking set of rosette bits and then the time, along with knowing there will be some rejects.
In all honesty I dont think I will persue the activity, oh well we learn something new every day.

Now I know the reason why there were no posts in LJs on them!!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Making Architrave Corner Blocks*
> 
> I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a house
> The job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it.
> ...


Curiosity often leads us to strange places. You got a good result for your efforts with this Robert, but as often happens we find that we are a step behind modern production methods and quantities that affords such low prices for store bought products that it isn't worth making some things at home.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*

I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.

Just to reassure the LJs that were concerned about melting, exploding, and generally screwing up machines, here is some HDPE I scavenged and planed to remove the wear grooves so I could use it again.

This is what it looked like upon recovery from the scrap bin.
*
End View*










*The surface to be worked*










*The first Pass results*










*Then the final results*

*Again the end view*










*Now the worked surface*










*Note:-* The static charge on the chips is real and they "cling" everywhere


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


*Rob*, I too have cut this material. I know it as HMDP, High Molecular Density Plastic. It can be worked with carbide bits. It did clog up my dust collection on my miter saw and the grooves in my drill bits. It will melt if you let the heat build up while you are sanding it. But it does have its uses.


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


Interesting.
Thanks Rob.


----------



## magaoitin (Oct 20, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this post. I have been wondering about milling this material, and just never tried it before.

I would like to make jig runners and maybe sacrificial fences out of this material, but it can be pricey. Any thoughts on zero clearance inserts? Would the friction and closeness of the blade cause melting? I see that Peachtree offers UHMW zero clearance inserts for most tablesaws, but I have only ever used solid phenolic.

The cost for a single 36" long strip of 3/4" x 3/8" material on Amazon and Peachtree Woodoworking is a bit high ($7.99 + $5.99 S&H each through Amazon) so buying a partial sheet might make this more feasible.


----------



## CajunWoodArtist (Oct 27, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if this is the same as UHMW…but I covered the top of my worktable with 1/4" UHMW and found it easy to work with as far as cutting and routing goes.

It cannot be glued…even with the best epoxy glue. I had to countersink flathead screws to keep it securely attached.

I also have some 1" UHNW that I have run through my planer and also through my jointer with very good results.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


Yep, talk about static


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


im using it for zero clearance inserts right now so far its worked great.and yes it can clog up vac lines,i milled it down to thickness on my jointer and had to take apart the 4" lines because the stringy strands accumulated it one of the elbows causing a complete clog.something to consider,not sure ill use it anymore.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


Very interesting…

... have not tried any of this…


----------



## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


Check restaurant supply places. The cutting boards for bane Marie's use them. Bought a half inch thick piece at 24 inches long, sixteen wide for 10 bucks. They also have 3/4 thick too


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


good tip kaleb i got cutting boards at sams club.


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser*
> 
> I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD.
> 
> ...


When I have made runnes from UHMW they curl a fair amount. They usually work because they're pliable and slick, but not as well as I like.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Removing Iron stains from timber*

OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.

I thought I may be able to use common household products according to information I read on the internet so after visiting under the sink I set to work.

I did three tests with the same test sample offcut

*CLR*









results no change. Active ingredients not disclosed apart from not containing any phosphates

*Mould Away*








Results no change Active ingredients Sodium hydroxide, sodium hypochlorate

and *Toilet Cleaner*, 








Results no change. Active ingredients Hydrogen peroxide and lactic acid. 
( I remember bleaching my hair with hydrogen peroxide some 40 years ago so I thought this would at least work!)

All failed to produce any noticable or effective results, apart from the timber may be cleaner in the test area.

So off I went on the pushie and bought some Oxalic Acid specifically designed as a rust and stain remover on timber and masonry

The *Oxalic Acid* active ingredients 100% w/w Oxalic Acid

The first test










The first test produced no change so I read the instructions again and repeated the test and left the solution in place for 10 minutes more

*Results*

The second Oxalic acid test










*Conclusion: *
Oxalic Acid produced the best results, however it did not remove the stain entirely.

It may be that the test sample area was contaminated my me using gunk reported to work on the internet, again inconclusive.


----------



## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


Have you tried lemon juice ?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


Hello Tom,

I read about it in my "fact" finding exercise on the net along both everybodies favorite Bi Carb of soda but havent got to test it out yet


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


Incidentaly: You know that Clover-like substance that, mebbees, grows in your yard that you don't like? That stuff that's identified on the weed killer labels as "Undesirable Clover"? That's Oxalis. The very stuff from which the substance is derived.
Oxalis
Oxalis is by far the largest genus in the wood-sorrel family Oxalidaceae: of the approximately 900 known species in the Oxalidaceae, 800 belong here. The genus occurs throughout most of the world, except for the polar areas; species diversity is particularly rich in tropical Brazil, Mexico and South Africa. 
Don't eat it. Or sprinkle the powder on you waffles.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


OMG its the bain of my gardening life the rotten little weed has a cluster bomb type of seed pod and if you dont get it all out in one undisturbed go its away again.

I am getting on top of it though.

Instead of sending them on a council paid holiday I might just start processing them instead, and put them to good use


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


I wonder if the oxalic acid worked best because you had "pre-soaked" three times with the other products first, which loosened the stain/iron?


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


Robert,

Have you tried Iron Out? It contains sodium hydrosulfite and sodium bisulfite. It works great on iron stains from well water that leaves iron stains on bathroom fixtures, clothing, etc.

L/W


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Iron stains from timber*
> 
> OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid.
> 
> ...


JoeinGa and L/W

JoeinGa:-
I have no doubt your comment has merit as I found the timber was definately "cleaner" even if the stain did remain unchanged.
The inconclusive part is, was it just water and the detergent properties of the chemicals and nothing else or did they actually do something from the active ingredents.

The other unknown is what secondary effect they would have on surface finishing products, again unknown at this stage.

L/W:-
Thanks for the information on Iron Out, its possibly not available in Australia however after checking around I found a product made here called K2R is so its something you have prompted me to go check out.

Thank you both.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*

I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.

Layer 1 is two pieces that will do the job
Layer 2 will be 4 pieces to complete the glue up.

This is the raw material I want to use.










Piece 1 and 2 are what I need for Layer 1 and piece 3 and 4 butt joined to start Layer 2.

But after working out I cannot cut both of them straight without reducing the width below 500mm left me with the option to bandsaw them on the profile and glue them back together again

Using double sided tape I then supported the pieces and bandsawed them.










I had to cut a small section from Pieces 3 and 4 to get them in the bandsaw.
I could have docked them but as the layer 1 pieces had to be bandsawed I did both.










Next was to fit biscuits.










An additional tip here.
Originally I set the biscuit jointer to #20 and cut three positions to fit biscuits, went to dry fit them toogether and found due to the uneven surface penetration was not deep enough for #20 biscuits, and the joint would not close.
So I simply swapped them out for #10s and all closed up perfectly.

Added glue and clamped them all together.










Next day I checked the pieces.










Here is Layer 1 A Side sanded










And finally a close up of the glue joint result before any sanding.










Whats the A abd B side. The A side of Layer 1 will be the top of the seat, the B side will be glued to the B side of Layer 2
Making a final piece 500×500 x 50, ready for carving and sculpting

Conclusion:

The results I obtained just using the bandsaw were worthy of continuing with so now its on with the work to produce Layer 2.

Enjoy


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


I like it!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


What's the timber please Rob….


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


Hello Candy.
Thank you hope you and the family are all well.

Hello crowie
I could say its battery wood but is really pieces of QLD walnut,... all a bit too small to do anything with individually.
Should make a attractive seat when finished.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


This is the part I shall miss… nice work on the walnut Bob…


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


nice job joining those boards,rob gonna make a beautiful seat.can i ask what brand of batteries you are using,and would you recommend them-lol.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


Very COOL work…

... I shall wait with baited breath to see what comes next… 

... and in awe…


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Jointing timber using a bandsaw.*
> 
> I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.
> I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together.
> ...


This is an "Ahhh-Haaa" moment


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Alternative use for Transfer Punches*

I know everybody possibly has a set of transfer punches they use for aligning dowels and all sorts of other holes in our woodworking activities.

However I found a alternative use for them as precision gauges.

I was busy making some boxes with dividers for somebody you all know when I began fitting the dividers.
It was then that I found I needed to resaw some of the dividers 1mm narrower to ensure a precise fit.










As I only have a fairly crude setup on my crosscut sled I found trying to adjust the stop by less than 1mm was proving very unreliable in regards to repeatability.










So I decided to use my Transfer punches to set the resaw width.
I started with the 2mm one next to the tape flag on it and worked my way down to the smallest on I have and have (and never used before) until I found the required exact fit. (The tape was to stop the punches rolling away on me as I deternined the correct width)

All I did was place the transfer Punch between the divider and the stop and then resawed it, checked it for fit then cut away on the rest, bingo a perfect precise fit










Thats all from me today.


----------



## MagicSawDust (May 27, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Alternative use for Transfer Punches*
> 
> I know everybody possibly has a set of transfer punches they use for aligning dowels and all sorts of other holes in our woodworking activities.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip. Learn something every day.

I was wondering what a transfer punch is, where I come from originally, it's called a drift punch - don't ask me why. Maybe to do with the idea that it's used to punch out metal pins in metalwork?

Never had a reason to use one in woodworking (yet).


----------



## eflanders (May 2, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Alternative use for Transfer Punches*
> 
> I know everybody possibly has a set of transfer punches they use for aligning dowels and all sorts of other holes in our woodworking activities.
> 
> ...


Transfer punches are different than drift punches. Transfer punches have a small nib perfectly centered on them so that when you tap on the opposite end, it imprints a small dimple onto the work surface somewhat like a center punch does. A drift punch does not have a nib on its end and is mostly used to drive out dowel and roll pins.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Alternative use for Transfer Punches*
> 
> I know everybody possibly has a set of transfer punches they use for aligning dowels and all sorts of other holes in our woodworking activities.
> 
> ...


I've never seen any that long before, would come in quite handy me thinks.
Many times I could have made my model building much easier with them.

Harbor freight has a set for $11, need I say I will be getting a set. LOL
Thanks Robscastle


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Alternative use for Transfer Punches*
> 
> I know everybody possibly has a set of transfer punches they use for aligning dowels and all sorts of other holes in our woodworking activities.
> 
> ...


Great idea!
Thanks, Rob.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Tool air cooler*

Majuvla's post prompted this one.
Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is.

My grinder I use for linishing and all those sorts of jobs, also has a white wheel fitted for sharpening tools as well.
When sharpening chisels and items sensitve to changes from heat build up they can be cooled with chilled compressed air directed through a vortex to prevent the tool being subjected to temperature build up.










Its operation requires dry clean air to work so you will need to have a filter and moisture trap fitted to your outlet.
Most woodworking applications have this as the norm when used as a duster, then attach it to the metal part of the grinder cover by its magnet.

Then and then apply air.

You get two effects one outlet which produces heated air and the other outlet chilled air.

No moving parts involved (except the air) and it directs a cold stream of air onto your woodworking tools undergoing sharpening to assist in cooling them.

*In case you were wondering what a vortex is:-*

What Is A Vortex Tube?

A low cost, reliable, maintenance free solution to a variety of industrial spot cooling problems. Using an ordinary supply of compressed air as a power source, vortex tubes create two streams of air, one hot and one cold, with no moving parts. Vortex tubes can produce:

Temperatures from -46° to +127°C (-50° to +260°F)
Flow rates from 1 to 150 SCFM (28 to 4248 SLPM)
Refrigeration up to 10,200 Btu/hr. (2571 Kcal/hr.)

Temperatures, flows and refrigeration are adjustable over a wide range using the control valve on the hot end exhaust.
*
A closing note:-* The differiential temperatures are based on incoming air temperatures, meaning the hotter the incoming air the less cooling and the colder the air the less heating.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Tool air cooler*
> 
> Majuvla's post prompted this one.
> Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is.
> ...


I thought all one did was to dip'em in water… (??)


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Tool air cooler*
> 
> Majuvla's post prompted this one.
> Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is.
> ...


Oh Joe you have ruined my post in one line !!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Tool air cooler*
> 
> Majuvla's post prompted this one.
> Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is.
> ...


Sorry, didn't mean to… I just never heard of a tool AIR COOLER before… (?)


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Tool air cooler*
> 
> Majuvla's post prompted this one.
> Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is.
> ...





> I thought all one did was to dip em in water… (??)
> 
> - Joe Lyddon


me too,i like joes idea,simpler-lol.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Tool air cooler*
> 
> Majuvla's post prompted this one.
> Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is.
> ...


No problems there Joe and Pottzy possibly why I rarely ever use it

The marvels of technology:

1x Grinder and cup of water
or
1x Grinder and air compressor and some high tech gear ,and even then even still possibly water too!

Cost a small fortune too. Oh the things you buy thinking you can use them when first starting out.

Even the wheel gets very little use as I turn to my Work Sharp for those sort of tasks, it produces amazing results


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Using the Standard Gifkins Dovetail Jig with timber wider than the recommended 310mm*

The Gifkins Dovetail Jig set up with the Standard template B10 series template has a recommended dimensions of:- 14mm up to 22mm with a maximum width of 310mm.










The additional pieces I added to my Toolmakers Chest pushed the width in paticular to 325mm, too big to fit between the Jigs Sliding stops.
So to re route my project I removed the Sliding stops and aligned the existing tails and pins by feel and eye.

*Note:* To be able to do this accurately you should have new sacrificial backboards fitted so that re alignment is possible with existing cut outs otherwise it may not work as well.

*How I did it.*

First up I removed one Sliding stop and aligned the previous cutouts with the backing board.

Then set the height of the cutters from the existing profiles and away I went.










The new timber ready to be cut is visible on the left.

Once it was cut I then needed to duplicate the cut on the opposite side so off came the other Sliding stop.










I didnt take a picture of the view looking underneath but I guess you will understand what I saw to align everything perfectly.










Gifkins do make a jumbo Jig (see specs picture above. Which I dont have, so I had to make do.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Using the Standard Gifkins Dovetail Jig with timber wider than the recommended 310mm*
> 
> The Gifkins Dovetail Jig set up with the Standard template B10 series template has a recommended dimensions of:- 14mm up to 22mm with a maximum width of 310mm.
> 
> ...


And you did a fine job…well done!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Sell it and buy a new one*

This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!

When I read his call for help it related to a Drill press he had without any table positioning mechanism, meaning the rack and pinion used to raise and lower the table.

There were a series of replies all having merit as to how to overcome the problem but involved retrofitting the Drill Press.

In my usual 36 grit reply I indicated the only solution was to update in the way of buying a new Drill press, and as it was almost Christmas it would be a great time to do it and added we didnt need to be imbuggered with dinosaur machines in this stage of our lives, as we were also getting old and could do nothing about it however our tools we could.

Anyway from down south came a duck echo saying that the crank was just as bad, so I accepted a task to conduct some scientific experiments to justify my abrasive comment.

This morning at the expence of other woodworking activites this testing was conducted.

The test involved measuring the amount of force needed to crank the Drill press table up and down.

I used some very accurate scientific equipment to verify the results I obtained and in the conclusion provided the uncertantity of measurements.

The test involved the following equipment
1 x radial arm drill purchased from carba tech specifically for the purpose
1 x Chinese high accuracy Luggage scale
1 x spray can of Smiths provided food safe lubricant
1 x chunk of plywood preped for making a aftermarket handwheel.
1 x test weight of some calibrated wood offcuts to simulated a job on the table.

The enviromental conditions were as below.
Bloody hot even at 0900 AM
No wind to interfer with the readings.

The test situation.
A general view of the clutter










Some more close up details of the mechanism










I conducted two tests one with the mechanisn not lubricated and one after applying a measured amount of lubrication to the rack and pinion mechanism.

Test One No lube.

Going up










Going down










Test two lubrication applied










Going up










Going down










Conclusion:

Going up: It took about 2kgs of horizontal force to turn the handle to raise the table. 
Applying lub made no value added difference.

Going down: It took about 85 gms to force to turn the handle to lower the table.
Applying Lub reduced this figure to about 4 gms.

Is lubricating the mechanism worthwhile no just makes a mess and is ineffective at the greatest load, that of elevating the table.

Uncertanity of measurements: Dead accurate mate.

Alternatives to reduce manual effort.

The crank handle could be lengthened to reduce the effort in fact a wheel the size of a cars steering wheel or even a ships wheel (which I assume shipwright has on his drill press) could be added.

The Prototype wheel I prepared










I could supply blanks of this wheel and with a business arrangment in place have them customised to suit your needs, that would be with the skills assistants of the likes of htl, crowie, little black duck, or dutchy and all the other LJs who make fantastic looking wheels

Thanks for letting me waste your time !!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


huh-sorry buddy I just got home from the company Christmas party and -well,ill just take your word for it-LOL! hell just buy a new one!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


I coulda used a lift at least two times today and like GR#8 my SS doesn't have one but buy a new one I think not at this time, but I do need to come up with something. LOL
I new indexer will fix it, no not this time will have to come up with something else. lol


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


Very good and scientific test Rob, but I am wondering if another type of lubrication might have worked better. Have you tried soap? I think too that the Australian heat probably expanded the metal enough to slightly freeze up the mechanism. I'm also thinking about the cranking speed and if it could have any effect. A drill press in a colder country might work better (have you thought about moving to Norway?) and speeding up the cranking action could provide enough momentum to keep the thing going, sort of like the flywheel principal. I am also wondering if the machine was perfectly level as weight distribution might also be a factor. More importantly, did you check that the gear was perfectly vertical on the column? A twisted one looks better, but doesn't work quite as well.

I bought a floor model drill press about 17 years ago for the equivalent of about US$500. I found out after the guarantee expired that it ran slightly eccentric. After being mad about this for a couple of years I realized this flaw actually suited my style of woodworking pretty well.

Some years after that I had the great idea to use my DP to clamp something between the chuck and table (watch it guys I know what you are thinking!). This worked very well until the rack gear broke. I got it welded and it worked for awhile longer but eventually gave out again. I could probably get a new rack gear, but I did a shop fix, and no I did not use duct tape! This was done by strapping the gear to the column tube with a hose clamp, which means of course that I can't use the entire height of the press. No matter, I have never needed it anyway and I still have lots of travel on it.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


*rc*, I'm a powderpuff to you as the heaviest grit I use is 80 (except when I need 40 and then I just rip my 80 in half) .

Unfortunately I don't fly (airplane food scares the bjesus out of me) so I do not have the luxury of a set of *baggage scales *(or for you importers… *Chinese Luggage* ones) so I just have to resort to other scientific measurements and algorythms.

I bought the handle on the right,









(for my previous Carba-Tec variable speed DP) and used it on my new DP to replace the one on the left. 
The old handle also permitted the retro fitting of my old DP tabletop with minimal surgery,









Now talking, in what may sound like Mandarin, about "forces, levers, jemmys and fulchrums", under ambient workshop lighting, the one on the right only turns two and one quarter of my knuckles white while the other manages three…. as us scientists say… *QED*… *Q*uite *E*xpected *D*eprivation (of blood).

Now what has this contributed to* GR8 *buying a new DP… absolutely nothing… but he probably won't read this reply and feel guilty… and as all the other scientists say… *QED*… *Q*uit *E*xtending *D*isallusionment.

As for me… *QED*... *Q*uiesce *E*xageration for *D*istilation (or better known as Christmas Cheer).


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...





> huh-sorry buddy I just got home from the company Christmas party …
> - pottz


*pottzy*, I hear rumours that you have 10 jobs… which party did you return from?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


*StefanG*
Oh its great to have you back on deck again you have been missed I tell you…have you seen my Wanted poster on you yet? tee hee! I have been driving everybody mad asking about you I even asked Dutchy if he dropped in to check on you at his last visit.

*LBD *
36 Grit in the drum sander good for removing paint and surface finishes not something you would just get a little friction burn from if you accidently touched it.

I think I have the same after market table only mine does not have that fancy gold fence.
You can actually see it attached to the post with velcro tape

Whats that little socket drive doing on the back of your table?

Otherwise was any part of my experiments of any value to you, ...is your crank very hard to turn?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


The socket is a 3/8" (bloody yank stuff) bolt I use to tighten the DP table. It's a shade less in dia. than the original, so I can reverse fit a "loose" bolt and use a ratchet on the working side. It has a piece of wood that "captivates" the nut on the opposite end so I can ratchet from the near side. Actually I BS'd there, I think its a 12mm bolt vs a 1/2" original… forget the maths… the concepts the same, just go down a thread.

If you can't afford a GOLD fence… go to uni and do a Midas course. Anyway… I got that fence before people became Incra friendly and it was still bargain basement (benefit of impulsive buys).

I thought about *the crank*... then I got a head slap from the missus for my attitude. Unfortunately a good working diameter may be too large… Perhaps if I make the circle 12" in one direction and 6" the other it may fit in the confined space… hmm…hmm… OK, un-hmm!.
Then again whoa, of I/we could "spindle" it away from the column… I/we could have a working solution… Problem is, the "spindle" would need the robustness of metal and I'm a pussyfoot timber man.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


I'm more used to not-wanted posters being circulated about me Rob.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...





> huh-sorry buddy I just got home from the company Christmas party …
> - pottz
> 
> *pottzy*, I hear rumours that you have 10 jobs… which party did you return from?
> ...


only rumors ducky,hell I barely work the one job I do have.why do you think I have so much time to b-s with you guys-lol.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


Oh yes Incra should have realised, looks good, Uni … touch'e

Hey a question how much help did you give Dutchy with the VW Bulli Combi plans?

and wait there is more.

I have wanted to build a Regent Double Decker bus for a few years now as I have fond memories of my grandmother taking me to the beach when I was in Sydney on holidays. I have some pictures and a line drawing but I have never attempted the project as I wanted it to look as close as possible to original and wanted it to be so big kids could put "stuff" inside it (and for me so could see what I was doing)

If this is this something of interest to you I could PM you (make that email as there are pictures and PDFs) with the information I have so far so you could take a gander at it.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...





> I m more used to *not-wanted *posters being circulated about me Rob.
> 
> - stefang


Personally *stefang*, I keep an eye out for* wanted *posters… pray they misspelled my name and my portrait is out of focus…. 








fortunately the cops think I'm a goose!



> ... I have so much time to *b-s* with you guys-lol.
> 
> - pottz


Oh glory me… total disillusionment… self flagellation… forehead banging against the wailing wall for the next two weeks…

*pottzy*, I say this with a bowed head and as a penitent man… To think I took you seriously and forever emblazed in my heart every word you professed… in the past…



> Hey a question how much help did you give Dutchy with the VW Bulli Combi plans?
> ...
> - robscastle


Bugger all, in a way. He provided the *.DWG *file which had all the measurements and profiles. All I did was convert it (trace over it and did a few push/pulls… in SketchUp speak) from 2D to 3D… and some help from my Sketch-O-Matic.

As you may have guessed, I'm not a mechanical techo… I can follow plans but those need to be fairly comprehensive as my interpolation skills are somewhat limited when it comes to non-risqué shapes/parts/forms.

Now having said that, I can always have a sex change and take a *gander*, however, don't be upset if I find it a tad hard and reverse the operation and* duck *for cover.

*PS.* Didn't realise Dutchy released the *Buli* without my *dust*... But then again I have a visit from my ex-missus that has sent my brain cells into self-destruct, PC keyboard into malfunction and the alcohol profit by my local publican soar…. (and probably me looking for a good surgeon if she happens to read this addendum).


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


OK got it somethng for later I guess, now on another matter did you see my drivel about Rockwell at Lillydale Sheep road and the Marondah highway ?

Its too hot here to do anything outside just yet so jst goofing about on the PC.

What about Dutch's VW Kombi pretty amazing work eh! I saw one sold at Shannons for over $60K

Speaking of risque did you see Hunter71 carving? its a wonder the front wheel stays on the ground!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...





> What about Dutch s VW Kombi pretty amazing work eh! I saw one sold at Shannons for over $60K
> 
> - robscastle


 robscastle?
A model or the real thing, Oooo!!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


It was the real deal ! and obviously in very good condition I will see if Ican find it again if you are interested in taking a look , I was amazed at the prices they pull these days.


----------



## Duffy69 (Dec 23, 2017)

robscastle said:


> *Sell it and buy a new one*
> 
> This blog is the result of GR8hunters post Inventors?? i need help!!
> 
> ...


Do what you have to do the best you can ,with what you have to do it with !


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*

I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.

Well after years of use and possibly a little abuse I noticed a vey small amount of movement in the square.

As I rely on it quite a lot I decided to see if I could reset it.

No adjustment screws or the likes were visible so I assumed there was something under the plactic sides.
On further investigation I found there was a small amount of movement in the side covers but they would not slide off.

There was not a lot of space between the sides and the actual metal frame so I decided to poke a trimming knife blade down between the two.










I then slid a steel rule in and it stopped about 30 mm, now pushing the plastic side I found it would now slide off.










Looking closer there was a dimple in the plastic cover locking it into a hole in the metal frame but no adjusting screws, very odd I thought so I removed the other plastic side and found what looked like three really small "screws"










Using a magnifying glass I saw a round nut with a section notched out on the outside.










Wondering if I could adjust them I got a small punch and hammer and gave one a hit. 
Sure enough it moved.










So I set my square in a vice and with my small japanese square set it back to 90 degrees.
Then gently tapped the round nuts up tight again.

Once that was done all the movement was gone and the square was accurate once more 
I slid the plactic sides back on and returned to work..

I thought you may be interested.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*
> 
> I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.
> 
> ...





> .... with my small *japanese* square set it back to 90 degrees….
> - robscastle


Nice tip *rc*.

And to think that back in the 60's we(I) poo pooed the *Made in Japan* stamp… Now we'd kill for it and they always come to our savour every time…

*PS.* Maybe we should just buy Jap squares… but how the hell could we correct them?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*
> 
> I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.
> 
> ...


Japan: A topic that got little support from my Mom who was a WWII nurse

Yep the Texas Chainsaw has got nothing on the swift silent pull saw, whip your finger off quick smart.

I guess if you dropped it, it may go out of whack , and I agree a second one could not check it as well.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*
> 
> I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.
> 
> ...


Very interesting… I don't think I have an Irwin square like that here in USA… Have a link to them in USA?

I have an adjustable Irwin square and really LIKE IT.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*
> 
> I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.
> 
> ...


Joe here is the Auzzie link.

http://www.irwin.com.au/tools/marking-layout/metal-squares


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*
> 
> I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.
> 
> ...





> Joe here is the Auzzie link.
> 
> http://www.irwin.com.au/tools/marking-layout/metal-squares
> 
> - robscastle


Thank you…

*I found this in USA...*

*Lowes*


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Adjusting your Irwin square if its a bit loose*
> 
> I have an Irwin square which I use often due to it being the only accurate square of that size I have got.
> 
> ...


Hello Joe,

Looks like you found the upmarket model! my old one does not have a spirit level or Quick Square angles on it


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Fancy a petrol powered Table Saw*

https://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/benchtop-tools/three-scary-table-saws_o

I found this article most interesting, there is a bit of everything for everybody.
If your into vintage Air compressors there is something to get you pumped up about!

DocSavage45 may see a chain saw to his likeing there too!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Fancy a petrol powered Table Saw*
> 
> https://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/benchtop-tools/three-scary-table-saws_o
> 
> ...


wow i think saw stop would love those saws rob-lol.those are a little scary,especially that amanco,blade seems a little dull too.id say we should be grateful for the tools we have now buddy.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Fancy a petrol powered Table Saw*
> 
> https://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/benchtop-tools/three-scary-table-saws_o
> 
> ...


Would Kick-Back even be possible on that saw? If so, I'd hate to see it!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Fancy a petrol powered Table Saw*
> 
> https://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/benchtop-tools/three-scary-table-saws_o
> 
> ...


i guess they didnt think about throat plates in those days either.good place for the small off cuts to fall into-ha!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Fancy a petrol powered Table Saw*
> 
> https://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/benchtop-tools/three-scary-table-saws_o
> 
> ...


Arrr!! the days when men were men and hospitals were few; while mishaps were your own responsibility!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Aldi Step drill sets *

OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
Using a step drill in wood.
These are usually reserved for thin metal and plastics, however I decided to do a test and see if they were suitable for solid and engineered wood.

*First up the Purchase details.*

I bought 2 x sets of drills from ALDI. Now the picture shows both sets together in one box so dont be confused.
The cost was $12AUD each.










*Now the technical details.*

Each individual set had the following contents:-

*Set 1* 
Set 1 had 4 x Drills 1x Countersunk bit 12.4mm 1x Drill saw bit 6mm 1 x tapered cone drill 8 to 20mm and 1 x step drill 4 to 12mm .

*Set 2* 
Set 2 had 3x drills, 1 x step drill 4 to 12mm (same as set 1) 1×4 to 20mm step drill and 1×4 to 32mm step drill.










All were coated with the usual gold looking Titanium aluminium nitride (TiAlN) or aluminium titanium nitride
and all had 3 sided or hex shafts. So 5 of the set (hex) can fit into a standard hex driver adapter.

I only used the 4 to 20mm stepped bit for the test.










First test was a piece of MDF board.










I can report the bit ate it no worries.

The resultant hole.










So I turned the board around and drilled back in again.










All seemed a reasonable job with only a bit of raggedy edges showing.

Next I turned my attention to a piece of pine.










As you can see it ate it again.

Now from the other side drilling back.









*
Conclusion:*

If you have a situation where a bigger drill is needed and you dont have one, a step drill could be used.

Note: 
As the step section is small there will be a decresing dimension if material thicker than the step is used, otherwise move the shank out and pass completetly through. 
Does it work with hardwood (Red Ironbark) I havent tried it yet.

And its BOC! For what its worth enjoy.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Interesting


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Or for those currently overseas its BBOC!


----------



## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Interesting,
I've never owned or used a step drill, really didn't know anything about them.
I've had a few Bintangs though.
Enjoy
cheers


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


OK not forgetting other areas of the globe.










ack Murray !

If you think you WW skills are lacking get 1/2 a doz or so of these into you … then read Degooses post sub script!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Rob, I've used step-drills to enlarger holes for a while now but only on aussie hardwoods…. 
Taking a 1/4" hole to either 5/16" or 3/8" for toy axles and my experience has been great using the step-drills as a starter for a through hole drilled with the required size….


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


OK ! so there you go eh! I thought it was something that had a benefit to others, ... and with your experienced input Pete some practical applications as well. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


ive used step drills for years making holes in metal larger but never thought of using on wood,dont know what i would need them for,but ill keep it in mind.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


I've used a step (ladder) to drill, even stepped on a drill (and turned my ankle… even though we're not talking about lathes), but $12.00 each, make Mr. Bunnings look like a rip off merchant.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


OK closer to home.

When I walked up the ladder to RMS Titanic I never made it onboard! I was turned away but luckly I didnt twist my ankle on the way back down.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...





> ... I never made it onboard! I was turned away…
> - robscastle


Maybe it had something to do with the eye patch, parrot on shoulder and BS (*B*lunder bus*S*) in your hands, though the peg leg might have kept you afloat and did prevented one twisted ankle.

Hope you bought the parrot a bag of seed as a reward…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Ahrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Good test Rob. There is a step drill suitable for drilling holes in Chinese balls, but they are very expensive!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...





> ... in *Chinese balls*, but they are very expensive!...
> - stefang


Not wanting to sound racist… but mine are priceless and ther's no way anyone is going to drill mine!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Aldi Step drill sets *
> 
> OK here is something I would not have normally considered.
> Using a step drill in wood.
> ...


Yes, very interesting…

IMHO, a brad-point bit will always do an excellent job… My GO TO Bit of choice… unless a Forstner can do it better.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*What I found snoopin around in Anthm27s shed while he was in Hong Kong*

well I got the ride on purring so wondering what to do next I snooped about in his shed and unpacked a few more boxes.










In one I found this deceptive looking box.










Being a bit of a curious person (read as a sticky beak) decided to open it.










To my surprise there were a set of planes in there that any pilot would kill for.










I might add, and not just ordinary planes, ones of all shapes and sizes.










There were ones for any thing you could possibly imagine doing.










All sitting quietly awaiting the master to return.










So I tucked them all back in, wiped my eyes, closed the lid and put them back.

Taking care to ensure I didn't drop my wallet in the shed.

*P.S *The lady wasn't forgotten either I found a nice Filipino broom in there too, its now sitting on your bed.


----------



## Bodypeersur (Dec 24, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *What I found snoopin around in Anthm27s shed while he was in Hong Kong*
> 
> well I got the ride on purring so wondering what to do next I snooped about in his shed and unpacked a few more boxes.
> 
> ...


Oh my!!! Drooling all over my phone.


----------



## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *What I found snoopin around in Anthm27s shed while he was in Hong Kong*
> 
> well I got the ride on purring so wondering what to do next I snooped about in his shed and unpacked a few more boxes.
> 
> ...


Brilliant Blog Rob.
That's gold mate and you've made me look forward to leaving Hong Kong and getting home to the farm to crack on with some woodwork even more.

And for those that didn't pick it up at the start of the bLog, Rob got our Ride-on Mower purring again, fully serviced with new blades belts and pullies on the 48-inch mower deck, well done as usual. I could not want more from my Right-hand man.

Cheers
Ant


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *What I found snoopin around in Anthm27s shed while he was in Hong Kong*
> 
> well I got the ride on purring so wondering what to do next I snooped about in his shed and unpacked a few more boxes.
> 
> ...


well it's good to hear from you two again(laurel and hardy).antman how are you doing,any flying coming up or are the wings still clipped.all i hear is the virus is gaining speed again.were getting more restrictions once again.funny those restrictions didn't do crap the first time so lets try again? so a little info on that sweet set of planes the sticky beak uncovered ant? inquiring minds must know!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *What I found snoopin around in Anthm27s shed while he was in Hong Kong*
> 
> well I got the ride on purring so wondering what to do next I snooped about in his shed and unpacked a few more boxes.
> 
> ...


Close Larry close


----------



## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *What I found snoopin around in Anthm27s shed while he was in Hong Kong*
> 
> well I got the ride on purring so wondering what to do next I snooped about in his shed and unpacked a few more boxes.
> 
> ...


Ok


> so a little info on that sweet set of planes the sticky beak uncovered ant? inquiring minds must know!
> 
> - pottz


Well Pottz , I wish I could make it a little more interesting than what it is but I will just tell the truth.

A friend of mine who lives down the road from my old house here in Hong Kong gave them to me.
He is an American actually, a Countryman of yours. He is a corporate Jet Pilot here in Hong Kong. (sounds like a great job I know)
Anyway apparently the story goes that he was over the border in China shopping and came across this small plane set, he had good intentions in taking up woodwork but never did. He called me and asked if I would like them because they taking up space at his, (typical hong kong, a fight for space)

So there is the story of the small *Plane* set, given to the Man who drives a big *Plane* (Boeing 777) by a Man that drives a Small but fast and powerful *Plane*. (Gulfstream G500).

The truth of the matter is he was probably over the border in China chasing Skirt and ended up buying tools. A typical story.

Cheers
Anth


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*

If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.

*Tools needed:-*
A pair of stud screw removing Pliers
A small plug cutter
Drill power preferably
a small twist drill
The victim/s

The process
Identify the foreign object, preferably before your woodworking tools do, by visual inspection or metal detector or in the worst case movement!

In my case the thicknesser detected two intruders, luckily no immediate damage was done.










The process used:-
carefully drill around the object with a suitably sized plug cutter










drill down far enough to get the nose of the pliers onto to the nail
clean all debris off the shank of the nail










grab the nail tightly with the pliers and gently wiggle and pull up at the same time.
If it turns but doesn't come out its a screw so you will have to unscrew it at the same time.

soon the trouble maker well be out of its hiding hole.

continue on as get his buddy too!










now upon close inspection there are some discoloured hole giving away another hiding spot
to ensure their clear get a small drill and drill down to see if you strike gold, if only wood or rubbish come out you fine and job complete










now annoying microscopic splinters in your finger

There is one here annoying the hell out of me.










Even the maggy lamp and tweezers could not remove it
So out comes the secret weapon, a used blunt razor just drag it across the area and it will PU the little rotter
just like when your trying shave with a blunt razor and drag it right out!

*that's all my useless knowledge for today!*


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*
> 
> If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
> Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.
> ...


The razor trick is new to me - I'll have to remember that one!

Definitely not useless knowledge


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*
> 
> If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
> Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.
> ...


Definitely will remember the razor trick.

A couple nails hiding in some oak tore up my 735 blades and for a bonus, I managed to flip the offending board over so I put a nice score mark in the planer bed too. I also found some bullets in the same batch of wood, but they were soft enough to do no damage to the blades. I tried to bore out the nails, but they went in far enough I couldn't get them out so I carefully ripped the board into a couple of narrow pieces and continued on with my planing.


----------



## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*
> 
> If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
> Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.
> ...


Nice trick with the razor, a carbon fiber sliver is the worst! I have metal detectors so not a spec of metal gets past me.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*
> 
> If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
> Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.
> ...


I had a similar issue with a desk restore I posted a few months back, finish nails throughout the wood I wanted to salvage and reuse.

The chiseling around the nail so I could get a grip w/pliers worked for where the patched missing chunk would be hidden. but it was more work than I wanted to do for the rest. I ended up just using a punch to push the nails until the tip presented on the other side, then pushed back with a slim nail set. Got enough exposed to grab with pliers and the small hole where I used the nail set was easy to hide.

That razor trick is awesome! Certainly worth a first go before I need to drag out the micro tweezers and loupe.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

robscastle said:


> *How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*
> 
> If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
> Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.
> ...


*Another tip for removing spinters & cactus thorns:*
Coat the area of your finger with wood glue & let dry. When you peel the glue off the splinter will adhere to the glue and come with. Try to pull off in the direction away from the splinter.


----------



## DevinT (Mar 25, 2021)

robscastle said:


> *How to get Buried Treasue out of your timber and finger (a way)*
> 
> If you read my blog about making a Tongue drum you would see I found some buried treasure in the process.
> Now it couldn't possibly stay in the timber and had to go, this is how I removed it.
> ...


madmark2, amazing [email protected]


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hook and Loop alternative fixes*

I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.

I have a couple of ROS 
a Metabo SXE 450 150mm ..and two Dewalt's D26453- XE 120mm
All courtesy of Degoose a few years back, so thank you Larry.
I also have a half sheet sander, I had two but somebody pinched one.

2. When my son and I were building his new gate he was sanding away and didn't notice the Abranet disc spun off, and as a result subsequently sanded off the H&L surface of the backing pad.

Has it been damaged beyond repair?

3. How to test if the H&L has failed, place a disc on the edge and try to pull it off sideways if it releases the H&L surface is damaged, if it stays stuck its OK.










Another check would be to use your sanding block as a second test.










Believe it or not if the H&L is good it will not release sideways.

4. So what do we do?... go buy another backing pad?










Anywhere between $25 and $38 AUD, and that will fix it.

Or….

5. replace just the H&L section on the original pad.

So here is the alternative fix. Coming in at $9 and $9.50 AUD each

You will need to sand off all of the original H&L, shouldn't be a prob as its half done already.

Method 1
Use a a sheet of sandpaper and run the ROS on it until the surface is removed, or
Method 2
Use the trusty disc sander and hold the ROS on it running, checking your progress regularly.










or










Note you do not need to remove the pad from the sander, I took it off intending to go buy a replacement pad, Which incidentally I did as a back up if the other method failed during a task, and don't press too hard and burn the pad into the grit.

Soon it will look like this.










With the replacement pressure sensitive H&L replacement pad your now ready to go to step 2
this is my 150mm Metabo replacement.










This is my 120mm DeWalt replacement.










Now I had to punch the three screw locating holes in it.










Then ready to attach.

A bit of filddling about but possibly a cost effective alternative
a cost saving of 2/3 to1/2 the complete replacement pads.

Will they work as well? .....only time will tell.


----------



## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


Very good. Though HL is a pain at times, it is way better than the old adhesive stuff.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


where's the duck he'd have a party with this one rc.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


I had a couple of Bosch's. Nice sanders. No vibration. But the backing pads would lose their hooks after awhile. I bought new pads but it still happened. I will say that it happened much faster with abranet paper which is the one I used because it was the best stuff.

Well, After awhile I just started buying the stick on stuff and it sticks on over what was left of the hooks and worked fine. A note: I've since moved on to air as I have and 80 gallon compressor. Three years with a hook and loop 3m sander and no issues.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


I think the duck has been winged to some degree.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> I had a couple of Bosch s. Nice sanders. No vibration. But the backing pads would lose their hooks after awhile. I bought new pads but it still happened. I will say that it happened much faster with abranet paper which is the one I used because it was the best stuff.
> 
> Well, After awhile I just started buying the stick on stuff and it sticks on over what was left of the hooks and worked fine. A note: I ve since moved on to air as I have and 80 gallon compressor. Three years with a hook and loop 3m sander and no issues.
> 
> - Craftsman on the lake


yeah with abranet ya gotta use backing pads.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> I think the duck has been winged to some degree.
> 
> - robscastle


yeah i know he hasn't been flyin lately but he popped on gunnys garage the other day too give me some duck crap,so he's on the mend.


----------



## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


I'm probably not the norm but I took the h&L pads off my ro's and put the stick pad on. I buy psa paper by the 100 piece roll, don't have a clue how much I'm saving or losing - I just know this way works for me
Plus when I take a piece off, I fold it in half and use that for tight spots and finish sanding


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


im in Dicks camp as i hate the H&L I can still remember your pinched sander Rob :<))))


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


Hello Guys and thanks for the feedback,

I did respond to COTL regarding regarding intermediate pads or pad savers when using Abranet or Sisa net but the reply is missing for some reason, not sure why.
So I will repost

from the Mirka site.

https://www.mirka.com/accessories/pad-savers/
and from Mallee Agencies here in Australia where I purchased my products from.

https://www.malleeagencies.com.au/collections/pad-savers

BTW any body know who this is? Margaret97?










She has just buddied Rick me Jim Awsum55 and RoccoD, she is a good looker dosent look 97 thats for sure!

I hope she can work the wood!
I am a bit worried she may have her eye on my sanders though, I cannot afford to lose another one!!!!.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


Black Widow, * RUN!*


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> Hello Guys and thanks for the feedback,
> 
> I did respond to COTL regarding regarding intermediate pads or pad savers when using Abranet or Sisa net but the reply is missing for some reason, not sure why.
> So I will repost
> ...


had one siimilar this morning i responded spam and flagged it.cricket had it gone immediately.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


******************** *rc*, even in pain I can't resist being relegated to a rough 40G.

Secondly, for someone that had his sander stolen, from the looks of your collection, you seem to have scoured the neighborhood and recipricatad… Just hope those that have had their ROS stolen don't bitch as much as your average Queenslander… can't handle more boo-hoo lost sander stories…

*BTW.* Got your *rrrs* wooped with the 50-6 demoralising loss… weep about that!


> Anywhere between $25 and $38 AUD, and that will fix it.
> 
> Or….
> - robscastle


I'm sure you'll get hundreds (and thousands),








of *flaky* LJers jumping on the band wagon to save that elusive shekel.

The average woodworker should rate themselves at $50 an hour… Unless you can ressurrect the pad in under 1/2 and hour the salvation may be a costly exercise…


> ..... a cost saving of 2/3 to1/2 the complete replacement pads.
> - robsastle


Hmm. a sheet of *starter* (what the call the loopy stuff) can cost from $30-$50… without travelling, postage and/or labour.

*However*...
If you can't buy a replacement pad… bloody good idea and suggestion… I don't know why your kids keep saying you're useless… you can always be used as a bad example.

Cool blog!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


Forgot to mention… Putting sanding discs on the pad (or not letting them wear through) will minimise wear on the loop… just a suggestion.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


now thats the duck we all love and have missed, chew em up and spit em out !


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


We have been doing a review on a combination planer by the name of Erbauer have you ever heard of the brand?

The by product of drilling the chupbba cupps sure makes attractive mess


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


Hoowee!

This is a keeper:



> I don't know why your kids keep saying you're useless… you can always be used as a bad example.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


its a bit old now like 11 years ago but here they are .










Its a crown or cove moulding box. But I kinda screwed up learning how to apply the Perfect Gloss!

I did eventually perfect the process later on.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> its a bit old now like 11 years ago but here they are .
> ...
> - robscastle


Which prison was that made (and picture taken) in…

What did you get the 11 years for? Was it your JT laugh?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> its a bit old now like 11 years ago but here they are .
> ...
> - robscastle
> 
> ...


damn duckie all that time away has made you real mean.i know i just risked getting hit with the pent up rath myself but i feel i have too save rc from the full brunt.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


Oh we are so funny do i really sound like that!

https://teara.govt.nz/en/video/26150/movietone-news-kookaburra

be sure to play them all I even had to laugh even being so long ago bloody kiwi's they are a weird mob!

The Erbauer combo planer edited for LJs (just in case)


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


time for the 3 stooges too ride for one final time boys,just like in the good ol days huh.we gotta just pick the right thread to highjack,and not get booted-lmao! hey im just a young kid,you two are on your last legs-lol.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> ... hey im just a young kid,you two are on your last legs-lol.
> - pottz


Typical juvenile… letting us *boomers* shoulder the load and me with my dodgy pinched nerve…

If I catch the bastard that pinched it, he/she'll get a fair sized boot up their chocolate starfish..


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> ... hey im just a young kid,you two are on your last legs-lol.
> - pottz
> 
> Typical juvenile… letting us *boomers* shoulder the load and me with my dodgy pinched nerve…
> ...


maybe the same guy that pinched rc's sander huh ?


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> maybe the same guy that pinched rc s sander huh ?
> - pottz


Probably *rc* himself looking for his bleeding phantom sander… leaving an empty wallet as deposit… s'pose that's better than his normal deposits.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> maybe the same guy that pinched rc s sander huh ?
> - pottz
> 
> Probably *rc* himself looking for his bleeding phantom sander… leaving an empty wallet as deposit… s pose that s better than his normal deposits.
> ...


Tmi duckie !!!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> Tmi duckie !!!
> - pottz


Just warning you to *watch your step*! I don't have pets…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


I told you about Pottzies ute didnt I? ... his mate Rickard (there is another mysterious disappearance) was not amused!

Speaking of deposits I am beginning to get the pip with them around my front footpath.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> I told you about Pottzies ute didnt I? ... his mate Rickard (there is another mysterious disappearance) was not amused!
> 
> Speaking of deposits I am beginning to get the pip with them around my front footpath.
> 
> ...


LOL-now thats what i need,teach em a lesson.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> Speaking of deposits I am beginning to get the pip with them around my front footpath.
> - robscastle


Forget footpaths… I remember back in the 70's I left my driveway gates open and caught a dog about 10 meters in crapping in my front yard… *BUT* there was a *bitch* at both end of the leash. Unfortunately back then, litigation had not migrated to Australia, else I would consider suing the owner for trespassing… needless to say, gender did not inhibit my profanity… hell maybe she could have sued me…



> LOL-now thats what i need,teach em a lesson.
> - pottz


It's not the dogs… it's the bloody owners that let them roam… unless *Sadona* doesn't wear a nappy… hell, it's still the bloody owner!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> I told you about Pottzies ute didnt I?...
> - robscastle


*National Country Party* (can't remember)...

Hell, I *NCP* when I had my last drink… that's why I drink continually.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


hey look duckie sent you some spam !!!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> hey look duckie sent you some spam !!!!!
> 
> - pottz


Was that spam… I read the bloody thing 176 times… should have realised its spam when all the articles were the same… kept reading hoping it would change.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


There was a new profile for Escorts earlier, Ii was busy checking it out and was about to screen shot of some of the "ladies" (Just so I could share the love of course) but it dissapeared just after I supplied my credit card details, which I thought was a bit odd.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...





> There was a new profile for *Escorts* earlier, Ii was busy checking it out and was about to screen shot of some of the "ladies" (Just so I could share the love of course) but it dissapeared just after I supplied my credit card details, which I thought was a bit odd.
> 
> - robscastle


How much did they charge you? Hope it wasn't cheaper than me!


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Hook and Loop alternative fixes*
> 
> I am not sure if this is of any interest but here goes.
> 1. Most of our sanding work involves Hook and loop materials of all sorts of dimensions.
> ...


i flagged that spam yesterday,i guess cricket hasn't been.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Cyclops grinder guard*

OK HNY all

Had lots fun reading about all the current lens posts, so I thought it best trying not to be too much of a pane, add my effort.
Nowhere as humorous as Mads or other posts and I dont expect to be getting a DT3 for it either, or as some may say no third prize.

Anyway years ago like others I dismantled a projector and found some very impressive lenses.

I needed to see my sharpening efforts in better detail so I glued it onto my shield










It worked very well for me and I thought is was the ducks nuts …so to speak.










I can now see better!










I am not sure of the magnification level but I an sure if you were game to put an appendage under it you would be most impressed!

Making sure the appliance is unplugged first.

As I work outdoors i needed to ensure the Sun didn't find it and cook ants or other think for instance lazering my white stone, so I to prevent any thermal mistakes and causing wild fires or the likes I have to cover it with a cardboard barrier.










I also actually had the frenzel lens from a projector TV mounted in a wooden frame but after melting bricks on a sunny day wirh it I decided to dispose of it quick smart as it appeared to be a real feather or fur singe creator in a big way.

That's all folks
Or is it yabba dabba do?


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...


good idea rc,now i just need to find an old projector! hmmm whens the last time i saw one of those ?


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...


Good idea *rc*... and just imagine, if you moved it to the right, you'd finish up with a 6" sanding belt… though you're glue-up job is nearly as impressive as my late attempts with my dodgy left arm… or is the lens magnifying it's unevenness?
..
BTW… where the hell have you been… you find your wallet and been busy counting your money?


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...


Def didn't find my wallet or even my sander for that matter.

this should explain things somewhat

Sorry about the lateness of the message

I have just returned from another adventure over Nov Dec 2021
Travelling in Aust and in particular interstate i getting very dodgy.

first week of Nov I departed Brisbane QLD for Anthm27's farm in Dyraaba NSW.
Its now over 2 years that he had been out of work as a Cathay Pacific Chief Pilot

Travel of any description for him currently is almost impossible either as a pilot or a passenger.
14 Days Q in Aust and then again upon return to Hong Kong,sou that's almost 1 month of lock up if he even could travel.

So as I enjoy "getting away from it all" at times I go there, 3hrs drive en route to my sons place in Sydney.

The farm is in whats referred to as in the Border bubble of NSW and QLD, so QLD residents can travel there to do "essential work" and return without too much trouble, so I do.

The farm offers solitude and a variety of tasks for me to participate in along with a convenient travel stop.
Fixing Mowers whipper snippers water pumps broken limbs testing all variety of things and not forgetting driving about in the Kubota RTV.










Next is Valla beach, Valla Beach is near Coffs Harbour about half way from Brisbane to Sydney.
There a long term friend has a Holiday house of which I stop over sleep and then set off for Sydney a 6 hour drive, before arriving in Sydney.
Its been raining a bit there as i found out.




























I do the reverse for my return, why am I telling you all this drivel, well I guess its to justify why my message is late.
I still havent done any worthwile Wood working projects as I an on the count down for my boarder exiting he now works shiftwork which really stops me form routing and sawing and making any noise.

-Regards Rob


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...


Clever trick, Rob!

And sounds like fun adventures with Anth and your son.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...





> ... I have just returned from another adventure over Nov Dec 2021. Travelling in Aust and in particular interstate…
> - robscastle


So we now know the source of the *super-spreader* in QLD… and I don't mean the bull********************!

*Gladys* is gonna turn into a squirrel and go nut gathering.

Are you just helping out on *antman*'s farm or have you exiled him… or he lost out on the ripple soled shoes (*no herd*)?


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...


In Victoria, that is not what we mean by *tinted glass* for cars,









we use them on bathrooms.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Cyclops grinder guard*
> 
> OK HNY all
> 
> ...


I like it Rob especially as I need to remove my specs to see up close. 
I'll have to start look for an old projector to pull apart.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*

Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?

If so it possibly buried in sawdust under the workbench somewhere.
All because of the frustrating results from letters A N and R.

I dont have a fix for R just yet so have to live with the deformed look it produces

However this week I needed to make a sign for a customer and out it came and got dusted off.

Here is the result.










a closer look
The messy N's










And messy A's










As I have had the kit for about 9 years, I thought I better re read the instruction manual.
I did and checked for updates on the net …nothing has changed.
Possibly because everybody doing signs has gone CNC and the kit has become obsolete.

So I emailed Milescraft for any technical bulletin updates.

See the reply below:-

Good afternoon, Robert,

Thank you for contacting Milescraft. We are sorry to hear that you are having difficulty with some of the letters in the sign making kit and certainly apologize for this inconvenience. The letters that you are struggling with are the three most difficult letters in the kit to rout, you are not alone. Each of these letters do take some practice to get the hang of. In all cases you will rout in a clockwise motion and you will want to be sure that your bushing is snug against the edge of the template, this will give you the best results. We recommend getting a test piece of wood and practicing with the A, N, and R, until you are comfortable with the tricky parts of each of these letters.

Robert, should there be anything further that I can assist you with, please let me know.

Sincerely,

Jessica Randall

Marketing & Sales Support Specialist

Milescraft Inc.

So after having the kt for 9 years more practice is needed, of which I did and would you believe occasionally I jagged a good one.










completely disillusioned I decided to give up and drink beer instead.

During the night I decided there has got to be a better way to get perfect results and started thinking.

next day I found some thin metal about 2 x times the thickness of a Coke can.

I cut a series of pieces on my table saw, traced out the diagonal for the letter N and die ground the diagonal section out.

Fitted it into to my milescraft jig.










and tested the modified overlay section out.










Brilliant just what I needed, so I made another (roughie) one for the horizontal section of the A.










and got a much better result.










ignore the P I forgot to clamp up properly.

Looks to be satisfactory mod …comment for more details if its of interest or just have a sly chuckle to yourself.

The tools I used to make them.


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*
> 
> Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?
> 
> ...


it appears that you are going to win the battle, congrats on that. My standard response to "can you do this for me" is that I either don't have the proper tooling to do the job or just a flat out NO, it's out of my comfort zone.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*
> 
> Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?
> 
> ...


I feel your frustration with a few of these letters. That a great solution to make things easier. In have to keep my head on overtime to get the best results.


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## woodman71 (Apr 19, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*
> 
> Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?
> 
> ...


Well it looks to to me even in your last picture you might be using a router that you can't control rpm (speed) of the bit . I would look into a variable speed control box Rockler sell them. Also Rockler did sell a sign making kit I have that one. You use carpet tape to hold them down works great. I have made sign with them also looks to me your trying to make the letter in one pass meaning depth of your router bit is at final depth. Trying make the letter in 2 our 3 pass you will get better result .


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*
> 
> Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?
> 
> ...


Hello Woodie

Thanks for your reply and advice.

1. The router has a speed control, but I haven't experimented with it so that's one option.

2. I have seen the Rockler sign making kit, but I don't make many signs, for obvious reasons. the add the fact its a USA item and although we are supposed to be allies all the good tools never seem to be available in Australia. For instance the Williams and Hussey or Shopfox moulding gear is non existent, then don't even think about a three head router!

3. Yes I am doing a one pass and then a check pass, so maybe some work practice changes need to be tried there to verify a better result. One of the problems is its now becoming a laborious task to try and produce a satisfactory result but maybe its re education time and more patience!

I will try again but in reality I think my gear has had progress pass it by.
I will try yet again as Mike Marvel or Cabinetman would turn in his grave if he found out I had given up!

P.S. I like your fish tank project


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## woodman71 (Apr 19, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*
> 
> Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?
> 
> ...


Thanks on Fish tank. Good luck


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Milescraft SignPro Mod 1*
> 
> Is there anybody out there these days that still has a Sign making kit from Milescraft?
> 
> ...


Ten out of ten for persistence Rob along with clever ingenuity to make it work. Well done sir


----------

