# 3/4" vs 1/2" pipe clamps



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

For woodworking, can somebody explain to me the practical difference between using 1/2" pipe clamps vs 3/4" pipe clamps?

I can understand if you happen to find some 3/4" pipe and you wanted to use it for clamps then you would need to have the 3/4" clamps, but if you were buying new pipe and new clamps, why would you choose to buy 3/4" over 1/2"? or would you?

I would be using pipe clamps for longer clamping applications (4-6 feet or more) and would prefer the lighter 1/2" pipe if there is no other good reason to use 3/4".

Thanks in advance!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

3/4" pipes are stronger, more rigid and will flex less - especially in longer runs. they can exert more clamping pressure than the 1/2" pipes.


----------



## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

Also, depending on the make of the heads, there is more clampnig depth. Make sure you use black pipe. The galvanized pipe doesn't allow for a good grip on the movable head.


----------



## basswood (Dec 18, 2013)

You can use 3/4" clamps for considerable loads. Not just in the jaws of the clamps, but also loads on top of the pipes.

I use pipe clamps by "double ending" them and clamping sawhorses together. One way I use this set up is as a portable table saw stand. The clamps allow me to level the saw on uneven terrain, etc.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*basswood* - that is a pretty cool job-site setup you got there!


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

The 1/2" are certainly lighter and easier to handle. I've acquired enough
bar clamps I don't use pipe clamps often anymore. Most of mine
are 3/4". The 3/4" are good for gluing up table tops and things
like that where you may need to put some muscle on to close
the joints.

For assembling cases and furniture joinery the 1/2" are generally
adequate.


----------



## basswood (Dec 18, 2013)

@PurpLev, Thanks. That was my "things are slow in the shop" project last winter.

I started wanting to build a 3-legged sawhorse that would not wobble on uneven surfaces… and got a little carried away!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Man, basswood, I love those horses! Took a look at your projects, not to be found. Hope you post on those, great idea!


----------



## jeffwedekind (Jan 11, 2011)

Matt, I use both and find the difference negligible. Good points by all though. Of course you can really "lay on" the pressure with 3/4, but when do we really need that. I too like the decreased weight of the 1/2''

Basswood, those are some cool horses. Love to see them in a project post. VERY ingenious!!


----------



## basswood (Dec 18, 2013)

@Smitty,

I haven't put it in "projects" in my profile, but here is a thread about it, so I don't take this thread too far off topic, it can be found here:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/56778


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Matt;

The majority of the clamps I have are pipe clamps of 'orange persuasion,' and only one pair is 1/2" pipe. They're a longer (5' - ish) length, got them cheap. They do flex alot. So much that they'll be my only pair of that size. I just prefer the 3/4" pipe for rigidity.

(Thanks, Basswood)


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

Thanks for all the input!

My primary purpose for these, as mentioned in my first post would be on longer applications where I dont have more expensive bar clamps with that kind of reach. Things like table tops or lengthwise on cabinets/casework.

I have one set of 3/4" Bessey H-style clamps (the one's with the feet). So I'm committed to at least one 3/4" pipe.

I may buy a set of the half inch clamps and try the 1/2" pipe out. Maybe I'll do 6 feet on each and just see how each one performs for my purposes.


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

Also, one other question…..

In terms of performance/safety, is it perfectly acceptable to have your pipe cut into, say 3 foot lengths and thread both ends so that you can couple two or three of them together? Or would it be better to have one solid length of pipe?


----------



## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

Matt, I have several pipe clamps on short pipe that I can thread together with couplers. They work just fine and never had a safety problem with them. Only thing the couplers won't allow the material you are clamping to lie flat on the pipe. I have clamped together some big table tops and used both 3/4 and 1/2 clamps and they both work fine. If I was buying I would get the 1/2 just to save money and reduce weight. Luckily I found an old dairy that went out of business and the new owner allows me to take the old pipes out for free. some are 1/2 and some 3/4 so I just try to find either clamp on sale. You can never have to many clamps they say.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

If you crank the clamps, watch for the couplers denting the
work as the pipe flexes. That's the only issue I have 
encountered with couplers. I just stick a wood pad under there.


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

1/2" clamps will do everything that needs doing.


----------



## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

If you make long clamps out of 1/2 inch galvanized steel, your going to have serious flexing issues. For short pieces they work fine. But they don't stain the wood. Iron black pipe on the other hand can and will stain the wood if you don't take measures. One thing that I did that works real well was bought a 1 gallon can of WD40 for $20 and wiped the pipes down heavily with it to remove whatever that awful oil is that's impregnated into the metal. Than I cleaned them with simple green to remove the WD40. Finally a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax and I haven't seen any staining problems. Another nifty trick is to use little pieces of pvc pipe you slip over the pipes to keep the work from contacting the pipe.


----------



## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

FYI, Peachtree periodically has Bessey H clamps on sale at really good prices.


----------



## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

1/2" is nice for 2-3 footers,
But 3/4" for me…


----------



## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

Matt - All my pipes are 6, 4 and 2 feet in length and threaded on each end. 6' is long enough for pretty much all my normal needs. If I need more 6's than what i have, the 2's and 4's are joined together with couplers. I also add them to the 6's if I need longer than 6'. Never had a problem in 30+ years of doing it.


----------



## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

As important, I think, is to buy the ones with the stacked-disc type brake. I have had a few of the other ones, with the toothed dog, and they don't hold as well IME. Got rid of them.
Go big orange!

Kindly,

Lee


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

Thanks Tom and Lee for that insight.

And Lee, GO BIG ORANGE right back at you!


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I think if I was starting from scratch I wouldn't even consider the 1/2" only the 3/4"


----------



## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

I went with only 3/4" pipe clamps. They're not that much more expensive and my HF pipe clamps fixtures work just as well as my Orange ones


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

If you were going only one direction or the other, I would go with 3/4" just for the additional strength. I always opt for more capabilities.


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

1/2" pipe clamps are more than adequate in applying clamping pressure.
Basswood: Those are absolutely the best saw horses I have ever seen. I'm going to make a set for myself.


----------



## basswood (Dec 18, 2013)

MrRon,

Thanks for the compliment on the sawhorses.

If you click on my signature line it will take you to the plans for them (if you hadn't already figured that out). Of course, many LJ folks here can probably build something like them just by looking at the photos I posted. Let me know if you have any questions.

All the best, Brian


----------



## Kryptic (Nov 8, 2013)

I agree with Clint, a 1/2 pipe will do everything that needs doing, if in this perfect world, we make all our joints….perfect.


----------



## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

A note and warning on the pipes. Lowes and probably HD will cut and thread pipe for you for free, where other places cannot, or will charge a lot for it. They will also have pieces of pipe already precut, but DO NOT buy it! A precut piece of pipe will cost more than a full 10' long piece you can have cut any way you want. While there look around for the little orange plastic pieces that come on the ends of the pipe to protect it, grab any you see laying around and make sure the ones on the pipes your buying don't escape, they are kind of nice to have to protect the thread on the end of the clamp that has the sliding part in case later you need to join pipes to make a longer clamp. Oh, and if it wasn't implied already, make sure you have both ends of any piece of pipe you have cut threaded for the purpose of joining pipes.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

What is the difference between 3/4" pipes and 1/2" pipes? About 1/4" I would say.

I use 1/2" pipe clamps. I usually use 3-4' pipes, but occasionally link two pipes together with a threaded connector. The pipes will deflect some, but the deflection occurs towards the workpiece. Simply place a scrap block between the pipe and your project. This will keep the pipe from bending much.

I like the 1/2" size because they are lighter, easier to handle, and probably less expensive.

I can recommend the Bessey "H" Body clamps. They are a good value, and work great for panel glueups and general clamping needs.

Good luck


----------



## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

+1 on the H style, it nice to be able to stand them up and lay your work in it if needed. HF has H style as well and they get good reviews but I went with all Bessey's when I bought mine cause they were on sale at peachtree for only $1 or so more each than HF and Bessey's come with the rubber glove on the business ends to protect the surface, you have to buy that separately at HF or do without or use wood blocks etc. For some reason HF doesn't put their pipe clamps on sale much, I know cause I spent several months watching for them to and I still get all their spams and go thru them. You recently missed out on the big Jet sale on clamps, they had their pipe clamps on sale at HF prices as well, and those are also good clamps.


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

@ Whiskers, thanks for the insight. I had heard that already (from another thread) not to buy the pre-cut pipe, but to let the store cut and thread it for me.

I have received some great advice/opinions on this subject from all of you.

From what I am gathering the primary issue is the potential for the 1/2" to flex.I am not sure if that is true for both the galvanized and the black iron pipe, or just the galvanized. I believe that I'll be going with the black iron from reading other's comments around the interwebs. Cost is negligible, so I am more inclined to go with the 3/4". But I may change my mind after slogging around a 6' 3/4" pipe on a surface that I dont want to get scratched. I guess I'll just have to handle them at the Lowes and figure out exactly how much difference there really is.

Thanks again guys for all your help.


----------



## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

no one has mentioned the handles on the 3/4" can be cranked where as the 1/2 inch has a sliding bar thingy.

if you are gluing up door panels, the 3/4" pipe clamps sit up high enough to turn the handles easy.

The flat spot where it touches the wood is more stable as a right angle compared to the 1/2" clamp. I have several 1/2" under 30" but only use them when I run out of 3/4" clamps.

32 posts for pipe clamps!.... geez guys! you think he got it?


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

Hey Mark, thanks! And… 32 posts about pipe clamps is exactly why I love this website! This is so much more entertaining and informative than reading product reviews.


----------



## Pezking7p (Nov 17, 2013)

3/4" pipe is 5 times stiffer than 1/2" pipe. In theory, it will deflect 1/5th as much as the 1/2" at the same clamping force.


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

that s a considerable difference, more than I would have expected.


----------



## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

5x sounds a like a large jump in stiffness, but not unreasonable considering the increase in the amount of material. Granted, manufacturing quality could play a role in skewing the numbers, I think the marginal jump in price (10-20%?) is very small in the grand scheme of things


----------



## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

My thought…. either will flex with length and pressure which is why when doing a glue up, I put clamps on the top and bottom sides of the panel, to equalize the pressure as bast as reasonably possible. Mine are 3/4 but 1/2 would prolly be ok too. Never thought of using 1/2 but if I found some cheap I wouldn't be afraid to give them a whirl !!


----------



## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I've got a lot of the 3/4" and I did one or two 1/2". In my applicaitons I wanted good strength with out flex. On the shortones 12-24 ok, but on longer ones, had too much flex bowing piece and paring. I've found the 3/4" much better, but again thats in my application. Light duty, don't see it mattering. I've bought lots of diff brands too. From cheapon HF to the only ones I will buy now. I get the bessy's. Great value at less than 15$ + pipe. I love the stands and they feet act as a great wall hanger.


----------



## manglum (Dec 26, 2013)

I ended up going with all 3/4" black iron pipe.

Once I handled them in the store they ended up not being nearly as heavy as I expected.

And the gentleman at the HD was more than happy to cut up 3 ten foot pipes for me. I ended up with two each of 6',4',3',and 2' threaded on both ends and I picked up 10 3/4" couplers to give me plenty of capability to go longer than 6 foot if I ever need to.

The only thing that was mildly inconvenient is that when they cut and thread the pipe they pour oil all over the pipe, getting inside the pipe as well. That will cause me to have to give the pipe a thorough cleaning tomorrow.

Now all I have to do is wait for a sale on pipe clamps to buy up a mess of them.


----------

