# Workshop Electrical Question



## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

I am planning a new shop and am wondering if it's better to run the electrical wiring in the standard fashion (in the walls) or to run it through conduit along the interior walls? Recently I was looking at a few shops for ideas and noticed individuals that ran the electrical through the conduit primarily in order to gain some flexibility should the layout change in the future. Just curious if anyone has used this approach.
Thanks in advance,
Bill


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I kept mine rated for 20Amps and out where I can see the wire. I use external fixtures (4-plex) and write on each plug what the amp rating is. Be sure to get plugs and switches rated for the type wire you use, there are different fixtures for aluminum and copper, don't mix them up. And remember all junction boxes need to be exposed, you can't hide them under drywall. Huge fire hazard.


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## SirFatty (May 5, 2012)

I would think that electrical code in your area should be the guide to follow. Here in the Chicago area, it's all EMT. Personally, I think it is a superior way to go, but definitely is more work and expense.


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

More information would be helpful; Garage? Basement? Detached structure? Finished space? Unfinished?

In general I think it's helpful to have access to the wiring for future changes. I certainly wouldn't tear into existing drywall to run wiring in the walls. If it's an unfinished space with studs it might be worth running it through the studs. If you have access to the ceiling you can run the wire in the rafters to keep it out of the way and then do drops with conduit just to protect the wires (that's what I did in my basement shop.)

If your doing this yourself without permits you want something you can remove if you ever move. If your hiring a pro I'd let them recommend the method.l


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## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

Thanks for writing back. Here is some additional information. The structure is a new addition to a detached garage so I am basically starting from scratch. The existing garage already has a separate 100 amp panel that will be used for the new shop space.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

It may be code to put everything in conduit, check with the city. If not, I'd leave all wiring exposed and keep the plugs up high. Since it's only you in your shop, you won't be running more than one thing at a time, so 100amps is kind of a waste. As the shop evolves, you'll need access to install or move plugs around.


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

Looking at your other post, I assume your planning on insulating and sheet rocking the walls given your MN climate.

That's a tough call; I think I would be generous, run a number 20amp circuits (since you have that nice 100amp panel), and run them in the studs before finishing the walls, and add a lot of outlets to give you flexibility. If your planning on running 220v for just a few tools, that might be worth doing in conduit in case you change your mind later and want to reorganize your shop.

These are fun problems to have!


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Most of mine is run through conduit on the outside of the walls. I just like it better for a workshop and is easily repaired or modified.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Bigjoemann (Feb 12, 2011)

Outside the walls is OK, just make sure it is in conduit. Whatever you do, make sure to a pull a permit from your local building department. There will almost always be something that you or your electrician missed. What the inspector finds could make the difference between having a house or a large pile of ashes.

If you are going to do something, do it right. No half-assed work when it comes to electrical!


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I ran mine through conduit on the outside of the wall. I only did it that way because I have a wood foundation on the house and shop and there are 2X12 trusses holding up the garage floor laying on 2X12 plates and I didnt want to drill into the plates for structural reasons. I would think running it in the wall would be fine and probably look better. Just plan it out so you have enough outlets including some 220 for larger equipment.


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## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

Thanks for all the replies. I am leaning toward running the electrical in the walls mainly for a cleaner look to the space. Since the panel is close it would not be difficult to add a line, through conduit, at a later date if the need arises. Now for the 220 lines - since both the TS and jointer will be located in the center of the room and the room is on a concrete slab my choices are limited to either running a conduit along the floor from the wall or dropping the line down from the ceiling. Any opinions would be appreciated.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

If the TS and Jointer are near a pole just run a 2x strapped to the pole and put an outlet on that from the ceiling.


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## ITnerd (Apr 14, 2011)

My 2 cents - go with the ceiling drop to the tools in the center of the space. The last thing you want to do have any irregularies in the floor as you feed a long piece through for a cross cut or joint a long edge. I would thing a center drop woule be safest. I would rather bang my head/shoulder than trip, but ideally a well placed center drop would eliminate both risks.

Even if you don't have a pole there, you could drop in some sort of inverted T to protect the wiring and hold the safety equipment you'll be using when bossing around the 220v monsters - like Phil B did in his batcave. God, I love that shop.


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## MoPower (Feb 6, 2009)

Both electrical and dust collection drop from the overhead on my saw.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

I had duplex boxes installed every 4 feet along all walls 50" off the floor should I ever want to lean a sheet of plywood against the wall. I haven't yet experienced a "wish I had" moment yet. It is cheap and easy to do during construction, but not afterward. I put ceiling plugs in for tools in the center of the room. I also put in a ceiling outlet with a cord reel over my workbench for any hand tools I might want to use, e.g. sander, shop vac, etc. HTH


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

You'll save a lot of $ & time putting Romex in the walls…. At least for you 20 amp 120 volt circuits and light circuits.


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## cutworm (Oct 2, 2010)

On your receptacles - I would get a double wall boxes and gang them. Use 2 circuits - one to each receptacle in the box and daisy chain them down the wall. 'That way you can plug in 2- 15 amp loads and won't trip anything. Probably every 6 to 8 feet along the walls. Receptacles are cheap and for convenience so use plenty of them. Ceilings, etc.
One over the bench. I would add a couple of extra 220 outlets for future use. Plenty of lighting. It's important.


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## sptfish (Jan 7, 2010)

If you are going to drop the power from the ceiling (which i agree with) then I recommend installing a Multi-Function Poll. You can run the electrical and a dust collection tube in one. Well designed this "poll" could be a very handy thing to have.
In my shop I needed to drop power for my table saw, but a pole would be in the way too much.
I installed a "power arm" (my name for it) which has an elbow in it. I can fold it out of the way when I want to. You can see it in my shop pics


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

ssnvet

how much do you really save with interior ROMEX? I went the exterior way with 3/4" emt and 4" boxes…here code allows 6 wires…the emt provides an acceptable ground (not wasting part of the tube for a grounding wire) so you have the potential for 3 separate 120v circuits/per tube.

12ga solid cost me $50 per spool (should have gone stranded…much easier to work with). But one each black white red wired my 56×30 shop with plenty to spare.

substitute a single 240v circuit for one of the 120v circuits if you want…new code requires 3 wire (red/black/neutral) plus ground (provided via your propery installed emt)...hint if your inspector isn't too fussy, 3/4" emt will accept 7 wires if you are careful.

and "careful"...learned the hard way…ream your emt ends…1/4" drill bit in your cordless drill at slow speed works just fine.


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