# Used 8" Delta DJ 20 Jointer - advice!



## Jasoninsacramento (Jul 6, 2012)

Hi y'all! I've been keeping an eye on CL for an 8" jointer… and I saw one come up today. Guy wants $900 OBO for a Delta DJ-20 jointer that he says is in great condition. He sent me thee pictures and even a video to show the condition of the machine.

As you can see, it has some surface rust and perhaps some pitting. He rubbed the machine with some oil and steel wool (see photo) and it seemed to clean up well. I won't know about the table flatness until I head over there with a straight-edge and machine square, but if the tables aren't each dead flat I'll pass (if they're not co-planer I can fix that but I can't fix warped or twisted myself).

I don't know about motors, but check out the video he sent me. I *think* it sounds fine.

What do y'all think about the price? I have to travel about 45 min to see it, but I'm thinking about offering him $750 given what I see now. Given that I can get a similar new 8" Grizzly jointer for $985 plus shipping and tax, or a Jet for $1500, I'm not sure this is a great deal.

Whatch think? Thanks in advance for your help!!




























Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kHSYhgnAZjFJNTbs78QHD3Wm74PPMnAb/view?usp=sharing


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Grizzly doesn't have 8" jointers in stock and haven't
had them for months.


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## mousejockey (May 6, 2010)

Did you get it? I have one just like it, I put a Shelix type cutter from Grizzly. With the cleanup work needed I'd think $800 would be my top but I'd offer $750.
FYI If you get it… the set screws that lock the adjuster is actually two set screws stacked on each other, remove one then loosen the other to make table level adjustments on the parallelogram cams.

Myles


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## Jasoninsacramento (Jul 6, 2012)

> Did you get it? I have one just like it, I put a Shelix type cutter from Grizzly. With the cleanup work needed I d think $800 would be my top but I d offer $750.
> FYI If you get it… the set screws that lock the adjuster is actually two set screws stacked on each other, remove one then loosen the other to make table level adjustments on the parallelogram cams.


I haven't yet, but it's still available. I'm supposed to go look at it tomorrow. I'm still back and forth on it because I'm looking at an additional $450 to add a helical head - so $1350 total if he won't budge. That's still cheaper than a new grizzly (and as Loren pointed out…there's a LONG wait for that), but I'm trying to weigh whether I'd rather save up and just buy a new one.

And thanks for the heads up about the table adjustment set screws!

Ja


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

It's been out there for almost a week at that price (even with his 'make an offer' statement)... so that should give you a good indication as to what others think it's worth. And the link to the video doesn't seem to work for me 

Cheers,
Brad


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## Jasoninsacramento (Jul 6, 2012)

> It s been out there for almost a week at that price (even with his make an offer statement)... so that should give you a good indication as to what others think it s worth. And the link to the video doesn t seem to work for me
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


Thanks, Brad. That's a great perspective. I made the video link public, so let me know if that's better. After listening a couple more times the motor does sound pretty smooth.

I'll let y'all know what it looks like when I go see it. I'm just nervous about spending so much money. I'd like this to be my last jointer.

Thanks,

Jason


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

It wouldn't last around here for $900. If I needed one I'd buy it. If I wanted to flip it I wouldn't pay more than 650$.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

That's a good model jointer since it has the bushing to Aline the tables. I think your on the right track inspecting table flatness. 
The Bryd head in my opinion is not a good idea in a jointer. Why don't you try it with good quality High speed steel knifes and learn how to set knifes with a dial indicater. 
unless you plan on working with reclaimed wood then the carbide insert will help.
The video with the motor sounds great.


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## DaveInGA (Dec 23, 2017)

If memory serves, the DJ-20 was one of Delta's better jointers back in the day. So you have good bones to start with, especially if it's a USA made one. If that's the case, the motor will likely be slightly under as opposed to overrated. The cast iron will be of a better grade than the pacific rim cast iron, though the pacific rim has greatly improved over the years. 8 inch jointers are also preferred over 6 inch.

Since I absolutely hate changing the standard knives, I'd definitely look at alternates for the head such as the Shelix or the Pacific Rim alternatives. You may be able to find a suitable alternative for less money than what you'd be out for the Byrd head.

One thing to note is whenever you buy used, you buy any headaches from lack of maintenance the previous owner created. That jointer was left to sit a lot and allowed to rust. This has both good and bad consequences, the motor has less wear, but the rust can create problems, as can froze/rusted bears. And while rust isn't that bad to clean up/off, you're likely going to run into dry rotted belts and such or at least belts with kinks in them causing vibration. So adding a couple hundred dollars worth of labor time/parts to your consideration is always a good idea when buying used. Also, is the paint in good shape or coming off? Repainting is doable enough, but again, isn't free.

So taking that into consideration vs. the end product once restored vs. time/money spent restoring. These things can be used as "bargaining chips" when negotiating.

Just my .02 cents,

Dave


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## DaveInGA (Dec 23, 2017)

Here's a couple old links with useful information on that jointer:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?28745-Delta-DJ20-vs-Grizzly-GO490-jointers

http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives.pl/bid/1104/md/read/id/144060/sbj/delta-dj-20-8-jointer-review-long/


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Off topic. Helical heads are awesome. Better for a jointer than a planer because very little adjustment is required in the long run compared to straight knives.


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## BeardedDog (May 3, 2018)

Jason, I've been eyeballing that same jointer, but my drive time is double yours. I've found that 8" jointers just don't move as quickly in NorCal as they do elsewhere, especially in the Reno area. Let me know what you find out. I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger on buying one just yet, just watching the market.


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## Jasoninsacramento (Jul 6, 2012)

Thanks everyone! I went to take a look at it last week and decided to pass. On the one hand, it was in decent shape. It was used in a high school wood shop, so it was likely well taken care of in the past. The individual beds were very flat according to my veritas straight edge.

However, I passed on it because the fence was way out - it probably had an eighth inch smile across its length… and that is well beyond my capacity to fix.

So thanks for the advice everyone… I'll take it with me as I continue my search!

Sincerely,

Jason


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## Jasoninsacramento (Jul 6, 2012)

> Jason, I ve been eyeballing that same jointer, but my drive time is double yours. I ve found that 8" jointers just don t move as quickly in NorCal as they do elsewhere, especially in the Reno area. Let me know what you find out. I m not quite ready to pull the trigger on buying one just yet, just watching the market.
> 
> - BeardedDog


See my previous comment - I choose to skip it because of the significant smile on the fence. It may not be that big of a deal for you, though. And he mentioned that someone offered him $500… but he wanted to wait until a couple of people (including me) saw it first.

Thanks,

Jason


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Its a quality machine. If I really needed a planer I would take $900 with me and offer him $750.


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## BeardedDog (May 3, 2018)

> See my previous comment - I choose to skip it because of the significant smile on the fence. It may not be that big of a deal for you, though. And he mentioned that someone offered him $500… but he wanted to wait until a couple of people (including me) saw it first.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ...


Thank you sir!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> However, I passed on it because the fence was way out - it probably had an eighth inch smile across its length… and that is well beyond my capacity to fix.
> - Jasoninsacramento


Since you passed on it, this is probably too late - but an FYI for others:

Not sure what 'smile' is referring to - but as long as the fence is perpendicular to the table, it's straightness does not matter. And if it was somehow twisted out of perpendicular, there is a good chance it can be brought into alignment fairly easily. Here is a snipped from the Powermatic PM50 jointer manual that explains how:



> From PM50 manual http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/4309.pdf
> 
> Straightening Warped Fence:
> 
> ...


Cheers,
Brad


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I agree with Brad, a jointer fence can have a bow along its length but a twist would be bad.
Square to the table past the cutter head is how I was taught.
If anyone need more info I can post some pics


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## Jasoninsacramento (Jul 6, 2012)

Again, thanks everyone for your comments and help! In the end I didn't buy this jointer. I thought about it real hard and decided that I'd rather buy a new machine, spend more money, and not have to worry about the motor, etc…. I've never bought a brand new woodworking machine before so this was a new experience! I shopped around, read reviews and ordered a Powermatic 60HH! And it arrived today! I had the cash and a little extra piece of mind was worth it - plus - this is the last jointer I'll ever need!


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## Ripper70 (Nov 30, 2015)

> I shopped around, read reviews and ordered a Powermatic 60HH! And it arrived today!
> 
> - Jasoninsacramento


Wow! You jumped from a used $500 Delta on CL to new $2,300 PM 60HH? Nice! You must be a bachelor.

;-)


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## Larrypac123 (11 mo ago)

This is an old thread but I've never been able to get my DJ20 perfectly parallel. Where are the screws you Mentioned. I don't recall anything in the manual about hidden screws



> Did you get it? I have one just like it, I put a Shelix type cutter from Grizzly. With the cleanup work needed I d think $800 would be my top but I d offer $750.
> FYI If you get it… the set screws that lock the adjuster is actually two set screws stacked on each other, remove one then loosen the other to make table level adjustments on the parallelogram cams.
> 
> Myles
> ...


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

> This is an old thread but I ve never been able to get my DJ20 perfectly parallel. Where are the screws you Mentioned. I don t recall anything in the manual about hidden screws
> 
> Did you get it? I have one just like it, I put a Shelix type cutter from Grizzly. With the cleanup work needed I d think $800 would be my top but I d offer $750.
> FYI If you get it… the set screws that lock the adjuster is actually two set screws stacked on each other, remove one then loosen the other to make table level adjustments on the parallelogram cams.
> ...


I've adjusted a few jointers and it can be very challenging. Really need two precision straight edges. Although I have used one long and got the job done. I've found a short one helps to check dips and humps on each table. I also use a flashlight and some feeler gauges.
A machine with a insert head is more difficult then a knife machine.
I bought my precision straight edges from suburban tools. It's a hard pill to swallow everything cost more then it should. 
Good Luck


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## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

the DJ20 is one of the workhorse jointers I've used at the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship in Maine. Seems like a good deal…and the surface rust doesn't look like a deal killer to me.


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