# Disc sander adhesive removal ?



## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

This morning I changed sanding discs on my 10 in. disc sander. It's one of those pain in the neck jobs that 
just needs to get done. As usual I struggled with removing the sticky adhesive for the better part of an hour.
The question is, anybody got a quick and easy way to get that mess off the disc?


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## Deglazed (Jan 12, 2011)

Goof Off and Goo Gone work well.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

I place the disk in the oven at 200 degrees for 15 minutes or so, and the paper then comes right off the disk.

To "renew" the adhesive on used or old disk sandpaper, I spray it with 3M77. It too comes off easily after being warmed in the oven. Note: don't use 3M90, it is much more permanent.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I did that the other day, on a Rikon 6×10 belt and disc sander. I keep a bottle of nail polish remover (acetone) in my shop. It is a good adhesive remover. I got a rag wet, and scrubbed it off. It was a little work, but not a lot.

I used 3M adhesive remover at work, it is very good.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

What were you doing to remove that sticky adhesive for an hour?
What was the process during that hour ?


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## Rice_Eater (Feb 1, 2011)

I would bet that one of these three will take it right off. Figure out which one works best on your adhesive:

1. acetone

2. rubbing alcohol

3. paint/ lacquer thinner


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

If all else fails use lacquer thinner, as David LaBolle-says


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## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

Bubinga: first I wet it with denatured alcohol, let it soak and that got all the paper and solid stuff off but the 
adhesive just sort of balled up then it was just scrapping, wetting and more scrapping. I'm thinking acetone would have cut it. 
To all thanks for the tips.


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## syenefarmer (Dec 19, 2009)

I use a hair dryer and the disc comes right off. Point the dryer at one of the outer edges of the disc and heat it up for a minute or so. Once you've gotten that portion of the paper to start to peal away from the disc, direct the blower towards the backside of the paper. Slowly keep pulling the paper away from the disc while keeping the hair dryer pointed toward the backside of the paper. You should be able to do the whole operation in just a few minutes and leave little glue residue behind.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I use a hairdryer followed by a softening with acetone. Then some goo-gone, then a final polish with some acetone. You want all that goo gone off or the new disk will peel prematurely, in my experience. Good luck!


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## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

Syenfarmer - Berta, The loml is not going to be happy with me when I lift her hair dryer and add it to inventory in the shop. I guess that's the price she'll have to pay for all those, cutting boards, boxes, coaster etc. that she's gotten over the years. lol. I do think the dryer will speed the process and I don't know why I grabbed the alcohol, and not the acetone this morning. Thanks


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^laughing with Don. You could always spill something sticky on the Wife's, buy her a new one, and inherit the old one (someone I know did that). The alcohol is still nice for a surface prep before the new disc goes on!


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

A good investment is something on the order of a Milwaukee industrial heat gun. I got lucky and found
mine at a rummage sale. They have a multitude of uses, between it and my 3m Adhesive remover, I have
saved myself a lot of elbow grease.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

lacquer thinner
works like a charm
get a spot going
and drip some in there
keep going till it is done


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Keep in mind the fact that Acetone and Lacquer thinner are not the safest things to keep and use in the shop. Be especially careful to work with these powerful solvents in a well ventilated area. If you can smell the fumes, you can also be assured that it is getting into your bloodstream as well. Rubber gloves are also a good idea.


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## biglarry (Jan 15, 2011)

After cleaning your metal disk, polish it with paste wax and buff after it drys. Put on the new sanding disk and the next time you remove it won't leave any residue. And yes the sanding disk will stay on until you remove it.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

I've read all of the above mentioned items that you should use, and some work…some don't. The best thing to remove sticky-back anything is LIGHTER FLUID…...Try it one time, and you'll never use anything else.
'Nuff said…..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

Well, next time this job comes up I've got a host of things to try. To tell you the truth I'd much rather change
bearing on the ts arbor than change those darn sanding discs.
Thanks to all.


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## Albert (Jul 28, 2008)

I just use paint thinner, soak it up with a paper towel and let it sit for a couple of minutes, then it should wipe right off.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Jul 4, 2012)

Big Larry, I did try the paste wax trick. It DID seem to stick well, AAMOF I tried to reposition it, and could not. 
Are you also using a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the glue?
I don't have a heat gun, but used a propane torch.

Old post here I know, 
Thanks, 
Tony

PS
Where is the best place to get the new sanding disks.


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