# Beads Box



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*

My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.

After completing my handtool box (at least the general construction of if) it made me think that I can scale it down and use the same 'general design idea' for the beads box. plus some additions that will fit the situation.









As opposed to using box-joints (that I used for the handtools cabinet) I will be using dovetails on this one to give it a more presentational look, and I will also introduce a (maybe hidden) drawer on the lower part of this box.










Question: since I will not cut through all the way to separate the doors from the base of the box - it makes more sense to me to use a bandsaw for that cut -and "cut around" the door opening parts (leaving the lower drawer parts still attached to the main box) but since the box is quite large (12×10x10) it might be impossible to keep those cuts straight and perpendicular to the other parts… in which case a table saw would be a more precise way to go about -but that means I'll have to completely separate the front of the box and then reattach the front pieces that are NOT part of the doors back to the main box - does anyone have any suggestions which saw I should use? (I'm leaning toward the table saw, and reattaching the cutouts back)

Goals - making a functional/presentational box for my mom, and while at it - practicing dovetails, and box making. drawer fitting, drawer lining, and everything else that will comes along with it.


----------



## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*
> 
> My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.
> 
> ...


This is the way I think I would do it.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*
> 
> My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.
> 
> ...


Cool idea Lev,

Personally, I would make the entire *outer *case up to and including the dry fit.

Once happy with the dry fit, mark out the separating cuts on the panels and dismantle the box.

Using the bandsaw, cut the top panel in two and set aside. Keep the fence position for the next cut.

Clamp or tape the side panels together and cut out the door parts together - starting with the vertical cut (same fence setting as before). Clamp a stop-block on your bandsaw fence rail so that you can return to this setting for the door internals.

Cut the horizontal section keeping the main side panel as an "L"

Now you can move on to the rest of the joinery and the interior the door frame sections.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*
> 
> My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Woodchuck*, but I really like to keep the sides the way I drew it - as a one piece, with the only contrasting part being the dovetails. it would however be much easier to do it the way you drew it.

*Zac*- that is fantastic. for some reason my mind was locked on the need to have the box assembled for the cutting of the doors and although it would make things easier in other scenarios- maybe here it would be best to take it apart after dry fitting- I'll have to dry fit the box and take it apart either way in order to do the rest of the construction (doors and main carcass) so I may as well do the cuts with the pieces disassembled. Thanks - makes much sense, and will get all the pieces cut clean and easy.


----------



## Carolynne (May 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*
> 
> My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.
> 
> ...


Please post pic when completed! I also bead and this sounds beautiful! What wood are you looking at using???


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*
> 
> My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.
> 
> ...


Thats a nice start.


----------



## JohnChristmas (Mar 4, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)*
> 
> My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.
> 
> ...


Gaining some creative tips coupled with a step by step on how to achieve the result is brilliant. Great project for the beginner!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Laminated Sides are Cut*

So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).

So this weekend I had the chance to start working on this project, and start using my short-lumber-supply. I had my eye set on a piece of (what I thought was a) cherry that was just right in dimensions for the sides of this box. it was about 16" tall (to accommodate for the 12" tall box), 11" wide (for the 10" wide box) and 1-3/8" thick (which should do for 2×1/2" thick sides). I wanted to give this box a more unique look to it by laminating a contrasting wood in the middle of it - my original idea was to laminate 2×1/8" thick contrasting color lumber, and in between have the main lumber maybe 1" wide - like racing stripes. I got a bit lazy, and decided to just go with a 3/4" thick contrasting lumber in the middle (also this is my first lamination and I didn't want to introduce too many factors of failures - 1 would do for now).

I started by cutting the cherry slab in half and planing 1 face of each piece , and jointing one edge. At this point I had exposed finished grain, and wasn't sure it is cherry anymore - maybe it's mahogany? those are the only 2 red colored hardwoods I have… and my lack of experience with either keeps me guessing.

I hand jointed the edges, and got a 3/4" strip of maple, stuck it in between the 2 slabs, glued, and clamped.

24 hours later, I decided it's time to load up my WoodSlicer blade in my saw for the first time. up until now I was using the factory blade that came with my bandsaw, it cut through the wood - but left a terrible edge (like ripples/lines) that I couldn't get over by adding tension on the blade (now I know it's the blade that was lousy) I was a bit concerned that it has to do with my setup, so I loaded the Woodslicer blade, realigned all the blade guides, and ran a scrap piece of lumber through the blade - much better looking then the old blade… I decided it's time for the 'real thing'

took my laminated wood, and said 'it's-now-or-never', marked a (slightly thicker then) 1/2" line on the top , setup my fence on the saw, and carefully fed the wood through the blade making sure to stay as close to the line (and thicker) as possible. I did notice that feeding faster would make the blade stray into the cut line, while slowing it down wood keep it straight. to my surprise - the 12" piece went through the blade like butter - this was phenomenal - I'm so glad I chose this bandsaw over another - definitely was worth the wait and considerations. The Bandsaw is the Rikon 14" Deluxe.

this is the end result: fresh out of the bandsaw, the cut is smooth and clean - just needs some very light smooth planing action. looking at the grain patterns and pores, it made me think this might be mahogany, but looking at the picture and the pinkness of the lumber, maybe it IS cherry after all… any thoughts?



















I was even able to hand shape and finally get a handle to my old (given to me by my father in law) chisel blade out of the cutoff piece of cherry/mahogany(?!?) lumber:


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Laminated Sides are Cut*
> 
> So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).
> 
> ...


The grain looks too tight to be cherry. I'd say it is mahogany of some variety.

Looking good so far!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Laminated Sides are Cut*
> 
> So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).
> 
> ...


Thanks Charlie, that's what I thought, thanks for the confirmation. originally when I picked the piece up it was light and redish in color, so I assumed it was cherry, but looking at the grain - and the pores more specifically it just doesn't look like cherry, and looks more like mahogany - I'll just have to select the rest of the pieces for the entire project out of Mahogany instead of cherry. they both have a warm look to them which is what I am aiming for, so it's not too big of a deal.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Laminated Sides are Cut*
> 
> So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).
> 
> ...


I agree the pores make it look like mahogany


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Laminated Sides are Cut*
> 
> So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).
> 
> ...


I like the grain.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Handcut Dovetail Carcass *

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.










So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


Hooray for progress! It's fun to see it go from Sketchup model to something real. Those are some very nice first-time dovetails, too! I haven't tried doing any by hand yet, because I'm a complete sissy


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


Looking good, its killer about your bandsaw not tilting both ways though!


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


Hi PurpLev;

Nice job.

Instead of using a chisel to cut the waste out, try doing it with a coping saw. It is a very quick and accurate, (with practice), method.

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee. I tried to get as much of the waste with the bandsaw (you can see the cutoffs in the 2nd picture) but it doesn't have the capabilities of a coping saw (which I don't have). so I had to do a bit more work to get this all cleaned out. on the 2nd piece, I took my metal cutoff saw (looks like a shallow coping saw) twisted the blade on it to 90, and tried to use it like a coping saw… with the blade thickness, and the saw's shallow body construction it gave me 'almost' the ability of a coping saw… took off more of the material, and gave my chisels a bit of a break.

sIKE. I tried to look at the bandsaw construction, but cant really figure out why they limited the left tilt to only 5 degrees.. looks like it could have been made to allow a 'full' 10 degrees to the left like other saws… oh well, can't have it all perfect I guess - I'm otherwise extremely happy with the saw - review is in the near future as I feel I've had enough experience with it to grunt a review.

Gary - I just like doing hand work (did I write that?!?). I find it somewhat meditating in a way. but when it comes to getting something done - if I'll have the automation setup , I'll use the quick way. leaves more time for other things.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


Hand cut dovetails are nice.


----------



## Stevelegh (Feb 4, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


I am impressed with the progress of your workshop. One question is how to do you manage the safety features of the shop? My family are encouraged, as I stated in an earlier post, but I would like to ensure they are safe when searching for bits and pieces. Advice would be welcomed.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Handcut Dovetail Carcass *
> 
> Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…
> 
> ...


Steve, as I mentioned in the other post, keep the shop floor clear and trip-proof. keep sharp tools stowed away, and keep children away from powertools. those that have safety lockable power switches - make sure you use them and lock those power machines out when not in use to avoid accidental turning of the machines on, and instruct kids of the dangers, and the proper use of hand tools to make them aware of the risk, while still generating confidence to use and respect them.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*

I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.

But… I finally got some courage, and cut the carcass down so I can pick up on this project, and move onward and forward with it.

So, in short, everything is still dry fit, and parts can be taken apart. I cut off the pieces that will make the doors (still in "1" piece). I cut the dadoes for the the bottom divider, and drawers supports, and the rabbets for the backs on the front (back of the doors) and the back (back of the box):

when I first cut the dovetails it was summertime, and now I think the dovetails absorbed some moisture, and got really tight, when I tried to take the dry-fit apart, the side of the box broke in half (it's hard to see in the pic, but it's there) I'll fix that once I glue up the carcass/main box.


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Sharon,

Cutting the L shape in the carcass must of been scarry. Which method did you end up using?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


yes it was *sIKE*, that was among the things that kinda kept me from moving forward with this project, I didn't want to screw it up.

I ended up using the Bandsaw - one fence setup for the cross cut of the sides, then backed it out, and set the fence for the ripping of the top, and sides to release the parts for the doors.

I wanted to remove as little material as possible since I will be using concealed hinges on the doors with minimal/"no" gap between box and doors, so using the table saw might have removed too much material off, plus, I'd have to clean up the non straight (circular) cuts on the bottom of the parts somehow since the cut is stopped in the middle, and I wasn't too excited about doing something like that. I think the bandsaw worked very well.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Looks Good Sharon to bad about the break,


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim. I kinda figured I'll run into "issues" by not driving this project from start to finish in 1 go… oh well. at least it's with the grain so it's invisible.


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Ah yes, this project. I'm glad to see it return. It looks good so far. For things like that dangerous L cut, I'm actually inching ever closer to manually doing things, say with guides and pull saws. Crazy, no? I have a new hand saw arriving today that I spent a lot of money on, and am very excited about. It's not even the right saw for what I want to do with it. I also ordered a file and saw set to turn it into the right kind of saw, however. That's how nuts this hobby can make you.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


I love the Japanese pull saws for this kind of work…. very fine kerf and very easy to control.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


the only pull saw that I have (or any hand saw for that matter) is a duzuki, which is no good for through cuts like this one since it has the back support. I think the bandsaw did a good job. think enough of a kerf for me. but it's true that a ryoba would have been a good choice here as well.

yes, this hobby can make you do crazy things… just stay on the safe side of things - please!


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Sharon, it's like watching someone on a highwire. You must be contemplating each move you make on this one.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


ha! yes it is Daniel - it reminds me of a game of chess (which might explain why I haven't played chess in so many years… as I like to get things done and done - or maybe I'm just not that great at chess…)


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

Cabinet and furniture making boils down to the fine art of fixing boo boo's.

Often it's where we learn the most, and our skills get finely tuned.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

Nice project.

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee, I think I'll adopt your story, sounds like it might be useful in the future 

the nice thing about dovetails, is that they hold the parts so well, that even with the side piece broken (completely) in half - you wouldn't see it, and wouldn't even know it even if you held the box, and tried to pry it apart. even now when it's just dry fit.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Mild Cutting, Doors part, Dadoes, and rabbets*
> 
> I've had this project on the back burner (literally- it was standing in the back on the burner…) for a long time (just click on the "Previous blog entry" and you'll see what I mean). and I think it's due to the fact I have high expectations out of this project, that sometimes I feel are a bit over my capabilities and abilities at this day and age.
> 
> ...


Looks good.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*

Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.

Since I'm in the zone these past couple of weeks, and a bit more in the woodshop mind set, and add to that the fact that I've been working with mahogany and had some leftover boards I was able to finally (yay - after some years) mill the last missing parts for this box.

I was able to cut the parts for the doors and cut the joinery for the reminder of the parts (internal parts and bottom on the external pieces)

I cut the joinery by hand unlike previous attempts to start with power tools (bandsaw) and compliment it with hand saw and chisels. I was surprised to find that it took me less time to cut the the dovetails on the door parts than it would have taken me to setup the bandsaw to do the tails. I think that from now on for case work, and for one-ofs I'd just go with handcut dovetails and will only setup machinery (probably router table) if I have a large number of drawers, its just seems easier that way.

I also cut the back of the case (previously glue up of 1/8" veneered mahogany that I sliced as a mean to test the woodslicer blade when I got it (woah… that was a long time ago), and the front of the doors and bottom drawer which is a 1/8" veneer cut off that was left over from resawing the box parts.

All glued up already, and need to clean it up next:



















All in all, good progress in just 1 day, I may even finish this one this year! (cross my fingers)


----------



## terrilynne (Jun 24, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Well you're off to a good start. Looks good. If you plan on finishing it this year…better hurry, not much time left!

Have a Happy New Year!


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


good start, it all depends on what this project is saying to ya. I think i'm gonna finnish something an then i want to add a bunch of stuff to it an then it drags out a little. Keep us posted an have a  New Year! Thanks for the welcome back.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Looking great. Nice looking wood.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


That looks good.


----------



## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Wow, Sharon, you're on a roll!!
Even if you don't finish it this year, you have some great momentum going on to begin 2011 with… 
Well Done, and Best Wishes for You and Yours in the coming year, my Friend!!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Yes you are really on the go! Impressive.
Look forward to see this box, it looks unique.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Gotta love the "zone"... very creative.
happy new year, Sharon.
Ellen


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

Look like a fair amount of progress, already.

I agree with your conclusion on cutting the dovetails. Just cut 'em and be done with it.

Nice work.

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Hi, how have you been?!? It's been a while...*
> 
> Yes it has been a while - and much of it… too much.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone. now back to work…


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Incra Style Box Joint Jig/Sled for the Table Saw (998SE)*

While waiting for glue to dry I tackled the large drawer that will be faced with the mahogany/maple-stripe front. After the last project where I used dovetails for all the small drawer I wisened up (is that a word?!?) and went with box joint.

My box joint jig is based on my Incra 998SE Miter gauge . The 1000SE comes with the flip stop which is very useful with 2 built in stops, and a micro adjustment which I use to sneak up to a perfect box joint fit.

For added stability I also use the Incra Express sled which since I got hasn't left my TS for cross slide - I can't praise this one enough. It's fantastic! That said, the concept would work even without the sled although it's better to use one.

Now in this case I'm doing 1/8" fingers which means I am using my regular blade (I'm lazy and didn't feel like swapping it for a 1/4" dado stack, and since the drawers are small, it will work just fine. for larger drawers it would mean a ridiculous number of fingers which then contradict my laziness).

I have a 3/4" scrap as an auxiliary fence that bolts onto the 1000SE t-tracks with bolts. The spacer that I'm using is a 1/8" drill bit that I simply drilled into the aux fence and released from the drill. for 1/4" fingers I use a… you guessed it - 1/4" drill bit:










I use 2 scrap pieces that I pick from the floor, or elsewhere (scrap aside, they do need to have 90 ends cut to stand properly on the sled/TS, other than that size is not important - all I'm testing is the thickness of the fingers not their depth, so the 2 pieces could also be of difference thickness/etc) and cut 3-4 fingers on each and try the fit.

If it's too loose or too tight I use the 1000SE flip stop micro adjust (black set screw on the left of the stop) to sneak up to a perfect fit which either pushes the entire aux fence to the right, or creates space to move the aux fence to the left (after loosening the t-track bolts first of course):










Usually there is only a need to fine adjust this once to get a perfect fit that will hold the parts together but still allow glue to be added without making it all too tight.

This is really simple to make - only takes 1 scrap piece of 3/4" ply or anything else you have, and a drill bit. IF you already have the 1000SE. Simple to make, Simple to operate, precision and simplicity that is hard to beat - and I've seen other 'jigs' out there.

Thanks for reading,
Peace,


----------



## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra Style Box Joint Jig/Sled for the Table Saw (998SE)*
> 
> While waiting for glue to dry I tackled the large drawer that will be faced with the mahogany/maple-stripe front. After the last project where I used dovetails for all the small drawer I wisened up (is that a word?!?) and went with box joint.
> 
> ...


Now I have another reason to buy the Incra 1000SE. Since I just got my new G0715P table saw less than 1 month ago, I had to put it on my future wish list. The future is fast approaching…!
Thanks for the hint Sharon and happy new year to you!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra Style Box Joint Jig/Sled for the Table Saw (998SE)*
> 
> While waiting for glue to dry I tackled the large drawer that will be faced with the mahogany/maple-stripe front. After the last project where I used dovetails for all the small drawer I wisened up (is that a word?!?) and went with box joint.
> 
> ...


Great post. I like my Incra fence but I don't have a slider because my slot is not standard. 1" X 1/4" with a 1/8" "T"


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra Style Box Joint Jig/Sled for the Table Saw (998SE)*
> 
> While waiting for glue to dry I tackled the large drawer that will be faced with the mahogany/maple-stripe front. After the last project where I used dovetails for all the small drawer I wisened up (is that a word?!?) and went with box joint.
> 
> ...


I have the same one as well and Love it. Amazing results no doubt!


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra Style Box Joint Jig/Sled for the Table Saw (998SE)*
> 
> While waiting for glue to dry I tackled the large drawer that will be faced with the mahogany/maple-stripe front. After the last project where I used dovetails for all the small drawer I wisened up (is that a word?!?) and went with box joint.
> 
> ...


Incra Rules.. no doubt.. 
i now own.. 
TSLS 32
17 inch router system..
all the rulers..
2000 with mitre express
and now the woodpecker… unilift.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra Style Box Joint Jig/Sled for the Table Saw (998SE)*
> 
> While waiting for glue to dry I tackled the large drawer that will be faced with the mahogany/maple-stripe front. After the last project where I used dovetails for all the small drawer I wisened up (is that a word?!?) and went with box joint.
> 
> ...


Very cool Larry, Incra is one of the few companies that I think each and every product is just a straight A++


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*

I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.

You'll notice that I do some finishing work during my project progress, and not necessarily at the end and that is because I can do the finishing at night time, so whenever I get some part of the project ready for finishing I can go ahead with it while still constructing and building the rest later on (drawers in this case are still not cut). Just trying to keep busy and make good use of time and not having to finish all the parts at the end.

I had recently attempted to create a glass smooth finish on mahogany in my Machinist Toolbox project but was not as successful as I had hoped to be. Mahogany like some other species has large open pores that on the surface of the boards seems like trenches. when you apply finish to the board, the finish covers the board evenly except in the trenches where the finish drops into the trench leaving low spots/lines on the face of the finish. Now this is in no way a deal breaker, and the finish will protect the wood just the same, but it will not have a glass smooth look or feel to it thats all. In order to get a glass smooth surface you need to fill in those pores.

*Filling the pores*

My previous attempt was to use some mahogany sawdust from my ROS (using 220 grit paper) mixed with dewaxed shellac. The reason it did not work so well is because I think I simply did not have enough sawdust and the filling compound was too thin to do any good. This time around, I had more sawdust in the mixture and it was quite apparent - the finish mixture looked a bit like mud.

I applied the compound liberally to the box surfaces with the grain and across the grain. As an after thought I should have avoided going with the grain as this would pull the compound out of the pores/trenches while going across the grain would probably fill them better. the box looked very dirty and gritty (which was a GOOD thing):










I then let this dry for about an hour and tried sanding it down with a ROS and 220 grit paper. It didn't quite cut it (pun intended). there was quite a bit of buildup on the box (again - a good thing, and just what I was hoping for). I reverted to using a scraper and scraped the entire box inside and out on all surfaces. Needless to say that was a LOT OF WORK, but proved some good results. the shavings that came off where of the finish which cleaned off nicely from the box:










Theoretically and what I was trying to achieve was to remove the gritty finish from the surface of the box leaving behind somewhat bare wood, with the low spots of the pores still filled with the unscraped filler finish in them as the scraper would not reach inside the pores.

I then lightly sanded the box with a ROS and 220 grit to clean off any left over marks and smooth things out, and applied a 2nd coat of a thinned down mixture (basically whatever was left from the 1st coat with some added dewaxed shellac) and after 45 min sanded it down with ROS and 220 grit. The results were exciting! the surface was glass smooth with no bumps in it (from the pores). to test it I used my fingernail and passed it along the board. Before it would bump in all the pores, but now it just went smoothly across the box - FABULOUS! :










I added 1 more coat of dewaxed shellac, let it dry for 45 min, and then added 2 more coats using the french polish method (cheese cloth with old CLEAN sock inside and force rub the shellac on the surface of the box) with 30-45 min between coats. The surface is just what I was trying to achieve. glass smooth to the eye and to the touch:

(pardon the image quality, but the reflection off of the dry finish can still be seen which is the purpose of this photo)









Mission Accomplished! I had been planning to have this finish on this box from the first moment I designed the box (over 2 years ago), and am glad it came to fruition.

Special Thanks to Karson who gave me some ideas RE filling in the pores (scraping it off). Karson used a similar approach but generated the sawdust using wet sanding with the finish, while I prepared the sawdust in advance. FYI Karson, the Shellac filler came off fairly easily with the scraper.

Conclusion, dewaxed shellac + fine sawdust in the right amount will do a good job filling in pores and will be a perfect match in color to the project at hand. That said - it does require some effort to get it done and might be easier to do as a prefinishing operation before gluing the project together.

By the way, All of this was done in a matter of ~5 hours from start to finish (literally).

I wonder if putting a couple of coats of poly on top of this would damage the shine (as an extra step to protect the box) any thoughts?

Now for the drawers…


----------



## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


That Finish is to die for Sharon!! Super Job!!


----------



## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


That is a great finish. Well worth the effort.

I would go for a hard wax (caranuba mix) finish.

That box likes it's shine.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


very nice work, smooth looken finnish.


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


nice finish - glad it worked so well. It seems much easier this way than with poly. I've never tried shellac, but i think i might have to now.


----------



## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


I was just going to say I never tried using filler on open grain woods…always thought it was unnecessary…but you have achieved great results. Definitely changed my mind about grain filling. This box is going to look too good for the shop…


----------



## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


GORGEOUS WORK, JUST BEAUTIFUL SHARON. GB, MIKE


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Sharon: I'm glad that the tip worked for you. There are many different ways to get the job done and you came off with a successful solution.

Nice job. I've used glue and sawdust to fill a crack and a hole. so using finish and sawdust to fill a million small cracks seems like the thing to do.

Using a scraper was a great solution to removing the excess. I'm assuming that you scraped cross grain or at a 45 deg angle and not straight with the grain.

Glad I was able to assist in your effort.


----------



## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


What a beautiful finish! I'm going to save this method (with hints from Karson) for future use. Where did you do this finishing work? I think you said your garage shop was unheated and I assume you need temps above 50 degrees for this process.
Lorna


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone.

Lorna- I do the glue ups and finishing in the basement not the garage. the basement is insulated and temperature controlled.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


I like these blogs that cover a couple years from start to finish. It gives me a chance to find out about stories that started long before I joined LJs! This is a really nice box and a good blog to go with it! Thanks for the update.


----------



## tyskkvinna (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


I've done this same technique, it works impressively well!

I have finished all of my shellac-covered items with a few coats of poly. It stays just as shiny (though do apply with care, you don't want the goopy part to arrive when you reach poly!) and protects the shellac. My experience with this method is when done, there is a noticeable depth to the finish.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Lis*. thats good to know. I'm still on the fence on this one, but may put 3 coats of wipe on poly on the exposed parts when I'm done with it for some extra protection as this is a user box and will probably be handled often.

*Karson* - I actually scraped WITH the grain as I figured the shaving action in not likely to pull the fillings from the pores as it cuts the finish on the surface line but that's a good point. I'll keep it in mind next time around.

and I forgot - *David*, this is not a box for the shop, it's for a (crystal) beads jewelry maker to organize the beads and jewelry tools in.

And thanks again for the comments everyone.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon, great job on the fill job and the box. I wouldn't hesitate to use poly in your situation, but I would apply 3 coats sanding in between each coat with 240 grit wet/dry and I would polish out the last coat with rubbing compound. Car rubbing compound works very well. No disrespect to another comment here, but I wouldn't use wax on it if it will be handled a lot because even Carnuba smudges from fingerprints and it doesn't much like moisture either (from experience).


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Please forward for a closer look…lol Great work on this piece Sharon it been a pleasure as always to watch and read about your working projects. Kudos on the use of French polish, I know it take the project to the next's level. I bet it hard to keep your hands off, also Happy New Years…BC


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Thanks folks, *BC* I think you'd need to stop by for that closer look  (open invitation anytime you're around).

*Mike* - thanks, I think that's what I'll do. I'll have to look for a car rubbing compound, never used those before.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Sharon make sure that you don't get any automotice products that have silicone in them. They can play havoc in a woodshop.

I've used 3M, but a lot of Mother's products have silicone.


----------



## CL810 (Mar 21, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


Gorgeous! Great work Sharon.


----------



## Tim29 (Oct 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


WOW that is sweet


----------



## Redford1947 (Sep 15, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...












Your comment about mirror finish on magaony struck a cord. Take a look at a dining room table that I refinished. Wood is solid maghony and was stripped down to bare wood. If interested in the technique, see my previous entry. Finish is as smooth as glass.

Thanks for the input. Very informative. Always shows me how little I know when I read what other woodworkers have done.

Redford


----------



## tyka (Jan 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...












Very nice job, congrats. Great idea using sawdust to fill the pores. I stay away from oak for this reason. Interesting that shellac dries this fast. I use wipe-on poly and it takes at least 4 hoours to dry enough to re-coat (65F). I would leave it like it is if shellac is harder than wipe-on poly. Otherwise I'd give it a few coats.
Thanks for sharing. I 've never used shellac but now I will consider it. I love smooth deep glowing glass-like finishes. If interested have a look at my mantle project.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fill, File, Fo - The filling of Them Pores*
> 
> I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2" thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look.
> 
> ...


paul that is a mighty fine looking finish! beautiful stuff


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Drawers Construction*

Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.

I had originally planned on having 9 individual drawers in the center compartment, but for lack of materials and time, I ended up making 3 large drawers and I'll put dividers in those and see how it goes, for ease of use it might be better to make 3 smaller boxes for each drawer so that each one can be taken out individually.

The drawers are all using finger box joints, but unlike a regular box where all parts are flush at the bottom, I wanted to have a 1/8" step on the bottom of the fronts so that they'll act as depth stop against the drawer dividers. In order to get that step I simply started both the fronts and the sides of the drawers aligned flush with the finger-joint-jig spacer which caused the fronts to be 1 finger lower and since I'm using 1/8" fingers it game me the desired step down (My Finger Joint Setup):










the bottoms are made of masonite and will not react with humidity, the sides/back is poplar, and the fronts are oak from pallets that I disassembled:










Overall, lots of finger joints which takes a bit of time, but it all fits perfectly. Normally I would route the slot for the bottoms with a start and end stops so that the grooves will not carry through the ends and show on the sides of the box, but in this case I'm going to veneer the drawers fronts so it doesn't really matter.

Next, cleaning up the drawers, making some final adjustments/dividers in the large drawers, glue them up, set slides for the lower set of drawers (so that they don't ride on the 'table'), veneer the fronts and add knobs and I'm close to finishing up (as in putting finish on them)

not much, but still some work to go through - the old 80/20 concept, you do 80% of the project in 20% of the time, and then 20% of the project in 80% of the time…

Thanks for reading,
Peace


----------



## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


I never heard that 80/20 before, but it sure seems true…similar to inspiration vs. persperation. I fiddle and think for hours, about a project. Some aspects take much longer than expected…some dreaded parts I do differently than I planned and take just an evening.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


wow, you have some patience to sit and cut all those box joints but it's worth it. The box is coming out very nice. The free wood from the pallets help alot huh? I get the same wood from my job, there is alot of oak,cherry,and sycamore. I think i found some walnut this week though, it looks like it. I wish i had brought it home for the weekend but its cool monday will be the day then I'll need a project to show it off.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

You seem to be in a specialized niche…small, yet complicated projects.

But, it's looking good.

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


I agree *Lee*, I was just thinking the same thing this past week "why oh why can't I just make something a bit less complicated…" but I have not gotten any answers… oh well.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


Yes, Sharon, but wouldn't simple be a bit boring?

This is really coming together nicely.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


Admire the patience.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Construction*
> 
> Today I was able to resaw some 3/4" boards to make the 3/8" (slightly less) material for the drawers, cut the parts, and joinery, and put it all together for a dry fit.
> 
> ...


Martyn - for boring I use the drill press 

Thanks for the comments. currently waiting for the finish to dry….


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Stringee*

Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:


But since I didn't hear no fat lady sing I have not yet come to a halt.

Now is the fun part - the small add ons. First on the list was the wire drawer, or the strings drawer. My plan was to house 2 rolls of wires in a drawer, and pass the wires through the draw front so that the wires can be pulled and cut to length without the need to open the drawer at all. I was also thinking about implementing a blade in the drawer front so that the wires could be cut without a need for an additional cutter/scissors but this time around I decided to pass on the execution.

when I designed the box I did not have a roll of wire to take measurements. I should probably have googled it, but alas I ended up making the drawers not tall enough to be able to fit the rolls vertically side by side. The alternative is to stack them horizontally one on top of the other. Not as originally planned, but not a bad thing as it makes the drawers shallower and more fitting for the rest of the stuff (Beads).

I machined a stand for the rolls out of Derlin: 









My basement is full of black stringy shavings all over - pretty cool, but will need to be cleaned off once I can turn the vacuum on tomorrow (too late for that today)

I ended up making the stand with a round base and a tall post and 2 spacers to separate the 2 rolls from one another and from the bottom of the stand:









The stand attaches to the bottom of the drawer with a screw from underneath, then goes a spacer, roll 1, another spacer, and roll 2.

For now as requested I did not drill the front of the drawer to access the wires, but instead I drilled and pulled the wires from the back of the drawer, so although the wires can stay stationary in the drawer it will just have to be pulled out and turned around - the front holes can always be drill at any time if desired:









Thats all for now, just some turning practice and having some fun.
Peace.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Stringee*
> 
> Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:
> 
> ...


Cool


----------



## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Stringee*
> 
> Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:
> 
> ...


I say we should all keep tinkering (improving) our projects till they are perfect! That way we never run out of things to do! LOL


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Stringee*
> 
> Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:
> 
> ...


Sharon;

I don't think you're supposed to say "fat" lady. I think the proper way to express that is "vertically challanged and horizontally over compensated".

Other than that, great write up!

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Stringee*
> 
> Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:
> 
> ...


heh thanks.

Theoretically speaking *Lee* - I didn't 'SAY' anything… I simply wrote it down and it is everyone else that is saying it in their heads. (This also applies to the 'theoretically speaking' part so to speak…. and to this one as well…)


----------



## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Stringee*
> 
> Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:
> 
> ...


Sharon, you are too clever! What a convenient way to store the wire and also without marring the beautiful drawer fronts too!


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Stringee*
> 
> Yes I know, I posted the beads box as a complete project:
> 
> ...


Ooh, machining! Now we're talking.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*

I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.

I had wanted to put legs on this box from the get go but wasn't set on a design that I liked and was mentally blocked with it.

I decided to make 3 1.5" x 1.5" x 1" legs and just chamfer the bottoms - just to have something workable to lift the box off the table and give it a 4 point on the table rather than the entire bottom surface.

After looking at the pieces, I decided against chamfering them with a hand plane and just route it out. after all I was out in the garage to make a shelf, not play with my projects and I wanted to get back in the house as I wasn't in the zone to woodwork at all.

I looked at my router - it had a rounover bit installed that I last used for the box pulls. I was lazy and wasn't in the mood to invest 5 seconds changing bits… I remembered my shaper (that I've never used so far) had some bit installed… After unveiling to cover off of the shaper (to protect from moisture mostly) I saw that it had a ogee bit installed, not a chamfer bit… hmm… oh well, I guess that might work well as well - lets go for it.

Since the parts are small, I used the same technique I used bandsawing my drawer pulls for the machinist box - using a wooden hand screw clamp as a holder and 'sled' to keep my hands away from any sharp metal objects that are moving really really fast and have a tendency to be aggressive on things it comes in contact with.

Although I used a shaper - working with a router table would have the same implications.

The first couple of feet I made, I routed one edge, turned it 90, routed 2nd edge, turned 90…3rd edge, turn, route 4th edge.

This seemed to have caused some tearouts. nothing severe, but not pleasing and not something I would put on a piece that is being sold.

I decided to route the 2 long grain edges, and then do the 2 end grain edges (bit mistake, but I wasn't thinking straight as I was trying to just wrap it up). the problem with this (that I wasn't thinking about) is that when you reach the end of the end-grain edge, the bit grabs the last fibers as they do not have a backing support, and pushes them out of the piece being routed - and tears them out.

My immediate thought to avoid this is to touch up the torn out corner with a reverse feed - climb routing, and then go back and properly route that edge from the proper feed direction. In theory the climb cut on the corner should help as the part is being routed while having backing support as it is fed in reverse. Mind you - this is only touching up the corner - not climb cutting the entire part. I have done this with success on some occasions, and less on others.

Please be safe! climb cutting while in some cases can help avoiding tear out is never ever a safe procedure. if you are not familiar with it - get familiar with it on the web before you start feeding anything with the bit rotation direction - it can do some serious damage to the workpieces, and more importantly to the operator - be aware! I am by no means suggesting anyone running such operation - do so at your own risk.

Back to the story - in this case, especially since I was using a shaper, I took all the precaution I could and fed the piece real real real real slow into the bit, while maintaining downward pressure on the clamp against the table so resist any pulling action that is about to happen from the shaper (it's a tremendous pulling force!) it didn't work too well, and the first piece I was using this with got caught by the bit, and it completely shattered it (see following pic). while the clamp and my hands stayed put, the part was basically pulled apart from itself and tore in half so to speak. oh well, I guess it was time to reassess what was going on physically with the cut and address it properly (and safely)!

So. the tearout actually happens while routing the end grain edge. as it reaches the end of the edge, the part does not have any more backing to support the cutter, and the cutter pulls the last fibers away from the piece tearing them up. the solution - route the 2 end grain edges FIRST. what this does is it provides for more backing support for the bit until it reaches the end of the part, also even if it will tear some fibers off, that edge is still going to be routed to shape, so any tear out should theoretically be trimmed off of the edge anyways.

the results this time were astonishing! a clean shaped leg on all edges! success.

conclusions :

Route end grain edges first, route long grain edges last. 
Be super safe with the shaper/router
Be super safe when attempting climb cut
Climb cut is not always the best/proper solution, and even it if is - it's never a safe procedure. rethink your approach and your case at hand - there may be a safer way to do it.

Picture (Left part completely torn apart by climb cut, middle parts slightly torn up with clockwise feed, right part clean! end grain edges first, long grain edges last, righmost piece held by handscrew clamp as used on the shaper table):









While referring to the handscrew clamp, I seem to be using it quite a bit for various operations powerwise and not. Here I am using it in the kitchen as a workbench to plane/trim down small parts easily:









Be safe, and thanks for reading.
Peace!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your time.
Good lecture, have to try them all… Learning by doing!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post. Very good reminder/information.

Brandon


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

I think what I would go a different way entirely… I would cut the center square, the wrap them with a molding, made using that same bit.

Lee


----------



## Moby (Nov 5, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


This reminds me of the latest box I just built out of maple and purpleheart. I had to template route the purpleheart legs of the box and tear out was a big problem with the purpleheart.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


hmm.. molding made and glued to a square center - definitely sounds much safer than working with smaller parts - thanks Lee and benltyJ. Also that sled looks much safer and with a much better grip of the part than the clamp I was using. In fact, as an after thought I was thinking about using a sled that rides in the miter slot with a zero clearance bottom as well.

All that said, to build a sled, or to start fiddling with mitered corners and sneaking up on cuts, and fitting parts together would have taken me a considerable amount of extra time which I did not and usually speaking don't have unless I plan ahead for such a procedure. Using the clamp was an easy to fabricate solution using existing and at hand parts that seem to produce a reasonable amount of holding power and stability to the extent that on the part that blew apart- the clamp and the remainder of the part were still holding secured under my hand on the table (I hold the clamp much like a jointer push block in the sense that my fingers are not grabbing inside, so if the clamp decides to fly away - so be it, and my hands are not dragged away with it).


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


Work safe. Keep the finger parts attached at the knuckles


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


yowza those legs look like a piece of work, and even with the handscrew clamp as a holder still makes me nervous for some reason. they just seems small enough to be able to be ripped out of the jaws of the clamp and hurled around wherever!

i really like benltyJ's idea for this - easy enough to knock out in minimal time while nearly guaranteeing good (& safe!) results.


----------



## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


I was thinking more about those feet this morning. I really liked them. They had a lot of character. Why not attach a sacrificial block of equal or greater thickness on both side of a foot in the hand screw, so as to extend its edges? Or is your tear out in the middle?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


thanks!

I agree than bentlyj idea is much safer, and will prevent the tear out. I should probably have gone that route and made a similar looking sled with one of the cutoff pieces I have laying around. If I am to do it again, I'll probably use that method now that It's in my head.

that said, the tearout is on the edge between the end grain and the long grain. My post here was mostly intended to cover the concept of routing end grain edge before routing the long grain edge which will clean off, and basically eliminate any tear out issues so that a sacrificial backer board is not necessary although in some cases I agree that it would be necessary which makes me think of benlyj idea once again which has that covered as well.


----------



## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


There's always moulding planes. No risk of kickback there!


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Get Up on your Feet! Routing Safety and Avoiding Tearout*
> 
> I was able to get to the garage today as a request for a new shelf for the kitchen was in. While there I saw some cutoff pieces of mahogany that I had piled up from the past 2 projects, and saw 4 legs hidden in those waiting to come out to life.
> 
> ...


sounds like you got some good ideas. I learned a bunch from this post and the responses too.


----------

