# Router Table (Joint types?)



## JP4LSU (Dec 30, 2017)

Hey guys/gals,
I'm going to make a router table out of some hardwood plywood because of the quality wood used and it's pleasing to the eye. It will probably be maple.

I plan on using 3/4" ply and I will be fitting the Veritas steel table to it and the fence is a Bench Dog fence. I got this from a garage sale for a good price. 
So the table tip is only 16×24 and I'm thinking of having the top portion and then a larger bottom portion for drawers and storage.

So it will be enclosed with the plywood. What sort of joints have you guys used to attach the 4x sides of the table?

Thanks,
JP


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I'm not sure if you're asking about the joinery for the cabinet itself or how to attach the steel top to the cabinet?

If it's for the cabinet, I always just use rabbets/dadoes and glue for plywood joinery on cabinets.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

For shop furniture, I usually go with pocket screws and glue. Nothing's come apart so far. If there's a shelf, I cut a 1/8" deep dado for it. That's enough to support a load and still leaves enough wood that you can use pocket screws.

P.S. I have that router table and the base Lee Valley sold to go with it out in the shed. I can shoot you a photo of the base if it'll help you get ideas about how to mount the top. Also, if you wouldn't mind, please PM me how much you paid for the table top. I've been intending to sell this and have no idea what to ask for it.


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## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Like Kenny said dado /rabbet is the way to go for a plywood carcass. I'd suggest you reconsider the plywood top though because the face veneer is very thin and you're after aesthetics. Something is going to scrape through that veneer at some point. If you want that maple look consider making or buying veneer which would be much thicker than what's on commercial ply and attaching that to a doubled 3/4 mdf top
Just my two cents, worth about half that 
Good luck and post pictures!


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Veritas used to sell a base for the top with
a pivoting widget that would let you prop
the top up at an angle for adjusting the router.

The base they sold was put together using
a threaded rod system for joinery. It could
be shipped flat that way. I had one. It worked
well.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

> I d suggest you reconsider the plywood top though because the face veneer is very thin and you re after aesthetics. Something is going to scrape through that veneer at some point. If you want that maple look consider making or buying veneer which would be much thicker than what s on commercial ply and attaching that to a doubled 3/4 mdf top
> Just my two cents, worth about half that
> Good luck and post pictures!
> 
> - GrantA


I agree, much better to have a thicker surface veneer than typical plywood can offer. Myself I see this as a work surface and not so much as needing to look like wood. My go to for work surfaces is Formica. It is durable, will take being scratched and is fairly easy to keep clean. Wood glue will not stick to it, so if you leave a chunk or a piece on top you don't get a story about how you did so and ruined a project. If so inclined you can get butcher block as your pattern.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

If not formica or thick veneer then 3/4 melamine on top of 3/4 mdf or plywood. You want it slippery more than pretty. You can even get black melamine or even scrap kitchen counter top to make it pretty.


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## JP4LSU (Dec 30, 2017)

Kenny and Grant, I've been thinking about the dado/rabbet joints. So I'm assuming no screws needed? Use the same joint for all sides and bottom surface?

Since this is my first router this will be good practice on the router.
Thanks,
JP


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## JP4LSU (Dec 30, 2017)

GrantA, Andybb,woodbutcher,
I believe my work surface will only be the steel 16×24 top. I'm not sure I will be nesting that top into a larger work surface. But I agree with you that melamine or formica would be good options.

I'm sure when I start routing large panels in the future I will regret the decision to keep it 16×24. 
Thanks,
JP


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Kenny and Grant, I ve been thinking about the dado/rabbet joints. So I m assuming no screws needed? Use the same joint for all sides and bottom surface?
> 
> Since this is my first router this will be good practice on the router.
> Thanks,
> ...


JP, I don't use screws with my dado joints but some do. On larger stuff I'll sometimes shoot a few brads in just to aid with alignment while I get clamps on but I rely solely on glue for the bond and have never had a problem. Of course, now that I say that, I'll go home this evening and find my router table has collapsed in the shop floor from glue letting go… ;-P

That being said, I see no downside to adding a few screws too if it makes you feel better.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

It took me a couple of days, but here are photos of the Veritas stand for the table. It's pretty basic, just a 3/4" plywood frame and the stands that hold the table up for router adjustments/bit changes are 1/2".

When I got this ages ago, I built a 24×24 inch base for it and affixed this to it for stability. you definitely don't want a small footprint on a router table.


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## JP4LSU (Dec 30, 2017)

Thanks for pics Rich. I've seen the plans on LV website. I think I might make a lager base to sit actual router table on.
I've also decide to go with a dado-rabbet joints for my boxes. I've ordered site eagle American straight router bits today.
Thanks, jP


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