# How Would You Size a 4x4 (3-1/2 x 3-1/2) to 3-1/4 x 3-1/4?



## SirGareth (May 17, 2012)

I am building a workbench based on Chris Schwartz's Two-Day Workbench. In the video, Chris had already removed the rounded edges by sizing the stock to 3-1/4 on all four sides.

I've thought of several ways to do this, but I'm looking for feedback, please. I'm thinking the best way would be to run them through my planer. I would take off 1/16 from one side (A), flip to the opposite side© and take 1/16th. Then, reset the planer height to take 1/16th off the 3rd side (B) and finally take 1/16th off the 4th side (D).

If I were to mill the first side (A), then an adjacent side (B), then reset the planer once to size sides 3© and 4 (D), would that work?

Traditional milling (jointer, planer, jointer, tablesaw) would be possible, but I might need to make two passes on the tablesaw, flipping the piece end for end, in order to cut such thick stock.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

I'm no expert, but since I have a thickness planer, I'd probably go that route. Even with planer snipe I'd get better results than I would on the table saw, flipping it over for a 2nd cut.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

I just did this the other day. I had pretty straight stock, so I used jointer to be sure of flat & square, then planer to final dimension.

You can use planer only if you're confident of the flatness/squareness of existing. Two adjacent sides, then two opposite will be fine.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Plane side 1, turn 90 degrees plane side 2.
Reset planer plane side 3 and 4. 
Repeat as needed for final dims.

As the previous poster said, most important to start by jointing 3 faces square to each other.
Board may not come perfectly square.


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## SirGareth (May 17, 2012)

Thank you all for the responses. I will try a few test pieces next weekend when I get back in the shop.


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## sgmdwk (Apr 10, 2013)

I would start by gluing up two 2X4s rather than using a 4X4 - more stable. My 2 cents.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

> I would start by gluing up two 2X4s rather than using a 4X4 - more stable. My 2 cents.
> 
> - sgmdwk


A. You won't get 3 1/4" thickness from two 2×4's

B. Stability will depend on the stock. Lots of 2×4's around here contain the pith-making for unstable material. This method *may* be more stable, but not necessarily


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## sawdustdad (Dec 23, 2015)

Joint two adjacent faces square and flat to within 1/8 inch of final dimension, then run though the planer to final size, removing the last 1/8 inch. No need to reset planer.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

Yep agree with sawdustdad. I'd go joint two faces to 90 degrees then plane the opposite faces. Problem with planing all four sides is that if the registering sides aren't flat the planer won't flatten them. Don't ask how I know. #notflat!


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Yep agree with sawdustdad. I d go joint two faces to 90 degrees then plane the opposite faces. Problem with planing all four sides is that if the registering sides aren t flat the planer won t flatten them. Don t ask how I know. #notflat!
> 
> - ElChe


+1 this is basic stock prep/carpentry/woodworking.


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## fuigb (Apr 21, 2010)

@jerry - would you agree that laminating 2×4s is the economical way to get to 3.25×3.25? Quality 4x stock seems always to be disproportionately more expensive that the equivalent BF derived from 2x.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

As someone already mentioned, two 2×4's = 3", not 3-1/4".

If you have a jointer, joint 1 face, then a second, adjacent face 90° using the jointer fence, then plane the remaining 2 sides.
No need to use a table saw.


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## fuigb (Apr 21, 2010)

^if your ration book is out of coupons them I'm happy to give you one from mine. Damn these war-time restrictions on lumber purchases.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

> @jerry - would you agree that laminating 2×4s is the economical way to get to 3.25×3.25? Quality 4x stock seems always to be disproportionately more expensive that the equivalent BF derived from 2x.
> 
> - fuigb


Sure 4x stock generally costs a bit more per bf than 2x, but "*economical*"? Are you going to resaw a 2x and glue it to two more 2x's so you can dimension to 3 1/4? Are you going to factor in the waste? And to ensure a good glue joint, are you going to re-mill the 2x's ? Are you going to factor in the wear and tear on jointer and planer knives? How about labor cost? Is your time worth anything?

I will sometimes glue up material to get the thickness I want, but I generally prefer to buy thicker stock when available. But I charge $$ for my time. YMMV

I think the OP in this case already has the 4x in hand.


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## SirGareth (May 17, 2012)

Thanks sawdustdad and all who replied with his method. It makes sense and keeps the steps to a minimum.

Tim


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## SirGareth (May 17, 2012)

Yes, I already have the 4×4 stock. In any event, each leg is a lamination of two 3-1/4×3-1/4 boards for 6-1/2×3-1/4 legs. The remaining boards are used for the side and stretcher supports. So, using 2×4s in this case would involve a lot of extra work. In this case, the extra I paid for 4×4s was worth it for me.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

In that case, what you want to do is joint one face of each 4×4, and laminate before doing anything else.
Then, follow the same process. Joint two adjacent faces, and plane the other two.
Provided your planer has enough height capacity.


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## fuigb (Apr 21, 2010)

@jerry - if the dimensions are critical I'd resaw whatever is on hand as a start for the short 1/4. Not diffucult, nor is the time-commitment any more onerous than missing a rerun episode or two of Duck Dynasty or whatever else the brain-dead do with their valuable time.

If one is a pro then I doubt they'd be sweating details cited by the OP just to make a workbench. Close enough would be good enough, I would expect, and on they'd go.


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