# Angled Apron on Dining Table



## WolfBrother (Feb 7, 2020)

Good morning everyone,
I'm new to this forum and am looking for advice. I've got my very first commissioned custom piece (a dining table) and am a little stumped on how to proceed. My client wants to recreate the "Jayson Dining Table" by Theodore Alexander. The thing that's got me is that the apron is angled inward; it's not perpendicular to the tabletop - maybe 35-45 degrees. I don't think figure 8's will work, as I won't be able to fit a screw into that acute angle. Also, this inward-angled apron is flush with the edge of the table and there can't be any gap showing. I've never tried pocket holes on an angled piece and not sure that would work either. I'm not sure exactly how to join this. Even if I attempt to rely solely on glue, how the heck would I clamp it? Does anyone have any experience or advice on this? I'd appreciate any wisdom that can be passed my way.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

The outer surface of the apron will be 35-45 deg. but the inner surface could be vertical (90 deg).


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

If it were me, I'd tackle the frame first then put the top on. From the picture, it looks like the legs set at 45's with the compound angle on the apron pieces cut to mate up flush to the side of the legs. If that's the case, I'd cut my legs and apron pieces first then glue that assembly up using dowels/biscuits/dominoes/floating tenons/whatever to maintain alignment and aid in adding surface area for glue. During this assembly, I'd make sure the apron pieces front edges come to an intersection with the front corner of the legs. Then after the glue is dry, I'd go back with a handplane and flush all the apron pieces up with the tops of the legs.

The final step for me would be to glue up the top and cut it to size. Now it can be joined to the inside surfaces of the legs using figure 8s or z-clips or whatever floats your boat.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

That looks like just the older peices where they chamfer the underneath to get the edges thinner. Not an angled apron.

Why does that name remind of george costanza?


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

Hint: You don't have to worry about table top attachment with figure 8's as the legs are not joined together. If the top expands or shrinks, the legs will move in/out as needed.

With ugly faux granite finish like that you have a lot of options. 
My process might look like this:
- use double thick BB plywood for top.
- miter bottom panel to match the apron, and cut 45° biscuit slots .
- Attach the apron assembly with the top upside down.
- If you make the apron as 2 pieces with solid back 90° to table (as Phil suggested), could use pocket screws to attach vertical board and leg to table top, and use biscuits to spline the apron with bottom panel of table.

Since it appears the apron is only on sides, and legs close the side of aprons at 45°, don't need to worry about side aprons? If wnd aprons are needed, make same way, and add them after attaching the long side aprons/legs.

Just noticed the original table side is W 107¾ x D 44 X H 30. My gut tells me you need an apron or brace on side between legs to prevent racking.

Best luck.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Looks like a flimsy table to me. 
I wouldn't bother making it


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Very simple table.
If I were making it, I would go about it upside down. 
Make the top and veneer the edges, mount the 4 legs, glue and screw through the top.
Cut the apron pieces and glue and pin nail into place. 
Turn table over and veneer the top last…









You could always add more bracing underneath if you thought it needed it.










More pictures here.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

You can bet the top is veneered plywood so movement is of little concern.


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