# "Slabbin' at Wood"



## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*

*Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*

....so where does it all begin, this thing I call slabbin' at wood?

What must one do? I'm sure we all know the how-when-where-why questions, and so after coming to terms with questions and answers such as these….one then goes out and sharpens their ability on the learning curve of belief. Now one may ask about the word 'belief', and rest assured we all believe in some-thing and in this case our belief of believing centers around wood. Woodworkers are 'workers of wood', and whether you are practicing your belief of wood, much or less….you are still testifying to your belief in wood.

I have been thinking about this story for some time now and have realized that it's time to jot down some remunerations of wood thoughts according to the how-when-where-why of chainsawing wood. First of all let me state, that this is how I chainsaw wood into slabs. This is my way and therefore, you may choose to do this process by an-other way and that is fine with me, but for me….I have tried and tested what I am presenting here and it works for me….and yes, I still have all my body parts.

Next let me add that chainsawing is inherently dangerous, lethal and will kill you in a half of a second. I work alone and folks will tell me that this is bad, but then I will also add that in my experience working around other folks is more un-safe and therefore….!

I have known the ones who make a mistake and therefore they have no-story to tell….I can however tell their story, while feeling sorry for their loved ones they have left behind. Chainsaws and trees working to-gether, with one who knows what they are doing can create beauti-full works of 'wood art'. In the hands of one ignorant of all that is going on….these same trees and chainsaws are called widow makers. I will call no-man a fool, but I will add that there are a lot of folks using chainsaws that are ignorant to all the goings on and this is why I choose to work alone much of the time. I will add that when my wife can get a chance to work in the woods with me, we work together in perfect harmony doing what I call the 'wood dance'. She can handle a chainsaw better then some men I have known and we have worked together for ages now in the woods, so we both know where each other is at all times and yes, she also still has all her body parts.

If any would think that I'm trying to scare with my words, well I seek to scare no-one….just get wise and get wisdom before you attempt to use that chainsaw.

In the coming story or stories I will be talking about 'kickback' and the dangers of having a 'stall out', plus any others that come to my mind. You will maybe hear or read me talking about some-things that even the experts will disagree about, so you will have to make your own decisions as to the path you will choose. One point I will mention, is that if you are not taking kickback on your table saw as serious, then please do not even pick up a chainsaw! One other point I will mention here, is that mistakes such as kickback with power tools and chainsaws, are so serious in my estimation, that I live by what I call the 'one strike' rule. *One strike and you are out!* That means if you are working for me or around me….see you later. Kickback can be life ending….and one who survives a kickback on a small horsepower chainsaw, will not understand that on the big ones, you are not going to stop that chain from connecting at some point of body entry. Do folks survive kickback on large horsepower chainsaws, yes they do and this is due to the excellent braking systems designed on these saws….do I want to work around that individual after that….no. Hard schools of thought here, harder knocks to live and work around….and you thought I was going to be talking about cutting and slabbing wood.

I will discuss in the coming story, brands of chainsaws I have used and what works for me. Again I'm not judging what you may have or what you have heard is the best….but then again, in my opinion I use what I believe to be the best!

I do 'freehand' cutting of the wood and since I am making slabs most of the time, this method works great for me. If I where wanting more along the lines of strictly lumber from the wood, I might also be using some other technique or mill form to go along with the 'freehand' method. No one ever taught me this method I use of 'freehand'....but from the day I started slabbin' some wood, this is what came forth, although I have refined this approach over the years. I have often stated that I learned 'wood joinery' from watching and listening to the trees, well I learned 'freehand' chainsawing from watching and listening to wood.

I will write and talk about sawing with hardwood and softwood, and the different degrees of cut that I file in the chains….and no, you will not find a ripping chain at Home Depot or Lowes. There I said it, 'ripping' chain as opposed to what you get, when you buy your chainsaw that comes equipped with a 'crosscut' chain….plus 'rakers' and 'skips'.

Well there we have it, enough to digest for one day and maybe more if one wants to follow along with me, you and any are most welcome to comment, add to and ask questions. In the end these are my opinions, but by these opinions I have chosen to live and since I'm still living, that makes me able to bear witness to and testify of and about my opinions….as I believe they are 'very good'. What I preach, I also practice, but I also take no-responsibility for what you read into what I write….*work smart, work safe, and live to work the wood*!

Now lets get on with some pictures of what I love best…..wood….










....some maple here and one Husqavarna 395XP….










....first cut by 'freehand' in the pivoting vertical position….










....some slab cuts, also the one laying down and stickered there is next off the slab cut above….and also I might mention that this is where imagination kicks in….










....colors of red….










....more red….










....and then some might ask as to how-when-where-why did all this begin? Well that's the easy question, out here where imagination reigns….'out in the woods'....










Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## TreeBones (May 21, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Great topic Frank. Safety first! I will always stand behind anyone who promotes safety. I have been a firefighter and ambulance driver for several years and can attest to the dangers to using a chain saw and "kick back". Thanks for your time on this subject.


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Ditto what Ron said and let's hope that the only red you see is in your surroundings and not on you.


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Great one and great philosophy behind, *Frank*.

You are spot on when you say that there are some things in life that are unforgiving and shall be approached with the utmost caution. Those beasts are far more powerful and strong than any man's arm. When they are thrown back at you after encountering a hard knot, you are not going to stop them. Other activities in life, like aviation, have taught me to be humble and very cautious. Paraphrasing the old pilot's saying: there're old lumberjacks and bold lumberjacks but there are no old'n'bold lumberjacks.

This is definitely a keeper and I'm looking forward to read the continuing tales on this series.

I know you do but, please take, care and enlighten us with your always welcome words of wisdom.

As someone use to say, GODSPEED.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Thanks for all your comments here;

--hi Ron; thanks for your comment. Yes, 'safety first' and I might add that he//she who holds to safety first, will also reap the benefits of safety at the end of the day….or as other's have said; "what you sow, so will you reap….

--hi Ron; I am starting to really enjoy the comments of what you see in the words and photos I write and post!
Now I must confess that you have saw more there, in those photos then I even saw. You have an amazing ability to see in and beyond and then come forth with a great comment. When I posted the photos of the 'red' in the vegetation, I totally missed seeing or connecting with what you saw. Great comment there and please keep on editing my writing, with your comments….

--hi Jojo; I like that; "some things in life that are unforgiving and shall be approached with the utmost caution."....thanks for your comment.
Also by the way, so your a pilot I gather from what your saying? I have an AP license for wrenching those birds you fly, airframe//powerplant. No big deal to me anymore, sice I have failed to keep it current. At one time in the past I thought of building the kit planes out of sitka spruce….that was back in the days, when I was locked into the rules of governing bodies. Never have really used that license on planes, but I learned a lot of wisdom and knowledge. Actually one of the most important lessons I learned back then, from that school of study, was that I could do anything I wanted to do, or that my mind had the wisdom and my hands held the ability….

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Ha! Frank, just "starting" to enjoy my comments?!! Hmm, glad you are warming up to my sense of humor and observation. I'm sorry it has taken this long.  Just jesting!

Not so sure I need to be the one editing, commenting sure, but if I start editing, your messages will never be the same. Have a great day and thanks for all you post and do.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Hi Rob;
--well maybe I said that wrong. It's not that I'm just 'starting' to enjoy, but that by revealing more of that 'sense' of humor that you have, I am also getting to know something more of the person behind the name of Rob. Sometimes it takes awhile for us to get to know each other and then we can break out of our molds by being our-selves. It's that re-vealing of our-selves that speaks loudest….and as to; "if I start editing, your messages will never be the same", well….that is a deep subject….LOL. I really like what Tom is saying here, "-*You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation.*" (Plato)

Anyways my subject, is never just my subject and that's why blogging can be so much good, I never worry about my subject getting hijacked or going off on it's own dialogue of thought. Never had much use for the 'control doctors' who value their opinion as the rule….my opinion may be my rule, but I encourage other's to go and get their own opinions, which in turn leads to free thought….

As far as enjoying my day….well I'm getting ready to go kayaking, ( how does one get ready? and maybe I should just do!) so once again,

Thank you. 
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


*Frank* said:
"so your a pilot I gather from what your saying?
I have an AP license for wrenching those birds you fly,
airframe//powerplant."

Indeed I am. Private pilot, since the turn of the century, even if I'm not current anymore. Let's say that Japan is not the most aviation-friendly country a pilot can live in. Few and far between airports added to the language difficulties and copious amounts of red tape doesn't make it easy. Well, actually that, and prices that are at least three times of those in the USA, I should say. I plan to regain my currency once stateside, because the only thing I can think of that is more beautiful than a blank of wood waiting to be turned into art, is flying over those very woods that produced that slab.

…and also:
"At one time in the past I thought of building
the kit planes out of sitka spruce…."

I remember when, back in the summer of '04, I visited that museum in western Oregon I now can't recall the name of, and saw in amazement the Howard Hughes Spruce Goose. That's the biggest wood project I've ever seen! Think something slightly bigger that a B747 entirely made in wood… and of course without any dividers, beams or posts inside. A perfect engineering piece.

…and last, but by no means, least:
"Actually one of the most important lessons I learned
back then, from that school of study, was that I could
do anything I wanted to do, or that my mind had the
wisdom and my hands held the ability…."

I do love that quote of yours, I really do.


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## Don (Dec 18, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Work Smart, Work Safe and Live to Work The Wood" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Work Smart, Work Safe, and Live to Work The Wood*
> 
> ...


Enjoyable reading, Frank. I just came across this blog series a few minutes ago, and at first thought I would pass it by as I have not intention of slabbing wood.

But then, it's about wood I thought, so why not expand one's understanding of the process, even though it will be at best a vicarious understanding.

Thanks, Mate.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"McCulloch Super 33" --by RusticWoodArt*

*McCulloch Super 33*

In writing this story about "Slabbin' at Wood', I have thought to include stories on:

1. *Safety*

*a)* ....and you will hear me talking off safety till you probably get sick of the 'safety' word. However with and when working with chainsaws, *I am a believer that safety first on the job, will likewise take you home safely at last!*

*b)* ....I was also taught that the average audience when being talked to will need to hear the point you are making, at least three times in order for the thought to stick in their head….therefore, *safety….safety….and more safety!*

*c)* ....*work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood!*

*d)* ....*safety that is not planned, is an accident that is waiting to overtake you!*

*e)* ....it you ever hear some-one tell you that accidents are going to happen and therefore one needs to plan on an alternate plan of safety….look that one in the eye and ask; "*how long do you expect to live?*"

....well having said that, let me now move on to….

2. *chainsaws *or *chain saws*

*a)* ....here I will include some of the oldies that I have collected,

*b)* ....and some of the ones I now have and still use.

3. *Freehand Chainsawing*

*a)* ....and this will include what I have learned and developed so as to cut slabs of wood for the benches and tops I build in rustic furniture and 'wood art'....

4. *Plus any-thing else*, I have forgotten to mention and that comes forth as we travel down this path of waundering along with slabbin' at wood stories….

Today I thought I would include some pictures of a *McCulloch Super 33 *. I have not had this saw running yet and I would welcome any input from any who would have information and experience with this saw….










....this saw was manufactured by McCulloch Motors Corp,
--introduced in September of 1954
--discontinued in September of 1956
--engine displacement: 3.3 cu. in. (54cc) 
--cylinder numbers (1)
--cylinder bore: 1.750 in. (44.4mm) 
--piston stoke: 1.375 in. (35mm) 
--aluminum with cast iron sleeve










--*remember safety?*....well this one had no-chain break….ouch….
--oil pump was manual and was located in the transmission
--carburetor was of the diaphragm type
--guide bar was 12''-24''
--clutch was centrifugal
--operating rpm 6200
--I have never been able to find an advertised horse power ( H. P.) for this saw.










--color was standard McCulloch yellow with the engine shroud in black
--fuel oil ratio was 1/2 pint of oil to i gal. of regular gasoline, 16:1
--spark plug type was Champion J8J
--bevel gear transmission
--rigid handlebar system
--air filtration system was flocked wire screen
--reed valve for intake










If any-one has used this one, I would appreciate any stories you may have to contribute.

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood!…."


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

frank said:


> *"McCulloch Super 33" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *McCulloch Super 33*
> 
> ...


Gosh Frank, in '54-56, my old man was still using a cross cut. Thank fully I wasn't big enough to run the other end yet. It wasn't long until I was big enough and learned to pull and don't push.(much cussing on the other end of the saw). Some of the old guys I knew when we lived near La Grande, Oregon told about cutting timber with the big two man chainsaws in that time period. In the '40 and '50 they were still cutting big pine on the Blues. Now the FS can't seem to get a timber sale past the court room. Most of the timber cut now is on private land. The Forest Service is mostly in the fire business. Hang in with the safety, Frank.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

frank said:


> *"McCulloch Super 33" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *McCulloch Super 33*
> 
> ...


Frank, I had a McClintock with an 36" blade on it back in the early 70s. Remember the kind you had to wrap a rope around the pulley to get her started,which usually took several thousand pulls, of choking, pouring gas in the carb, and pulling some more. I see this one at least has a hand choke. Once you got it started though she would work steady for you until you decided to drop. I don't know what to tell you to help, other than make sure the plug is getting a little gas on it and some spark. Maybe the mag needs some rubbin with a wire brush. Other than that find you a strong young lad with a strong back and little wit and see if he won't pull on it for you for a few days. . I think that ole chain saw I had was pre 1960's. I know it darn near out weighed me. I sure remember the power it had though and its ability to kick back when you least expected it, and probably it's best safety feature was it's weight, because although it was a fast runner it had enough weight to help hold itself down. But I did have the darn thing kick back at me once and missed my shoulder by inches, so that surely was'nt a safety feature by any means, all I meant was it helped hold itself in place, cause a saw that heavy you just guide you don't hold its weight all day or you would'nt last long. Peace, your ole buddy Mike


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*

Slab Wood Tales

....in the working of the wood, 
the stories of those who came before me, 
are revealed as enlightened nuggets of wisdom, 
where 'ancient ones' give thanks by offering to tell me their tales….

So today I thought I would travel some ground….or is that lay some ground work here and post some pictures. I'm going to throw in a plug here and say thanks to Zooomr for all their work that they have done, and have made available to all. Using this site has become my major source of photo hosting and they are also offering for* FREE, INFINITE UPLOAD*. And yes, thats 16 photo's I uploaded this morning in about 5 minutes time….quite impressive, thank you Zooomr!

So in the name of *Safety first*, let us, "*work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood*!"

I cut these last week and I'm not going to go into much detail here today, on the how-when-where-why as that will be coming forth in future articles about 'freehand' sawing and the different ways I approach the wood with my chainsaw to get slabs. I will mention once again that since I am slabbing the wood for benches and tops with a 'live edge', this process works very good for me, as I am happy with the thickness I can attain too by this process, 3''-4'' and better. I also use a broadax, power hand planers, slicks and many other tools to achieve the finished surfaces on my 'wood art' that just begs to be touched and stroked. I might add that if you ever see one of my pieces in a show or gallery, you will never see a sign that says 'look but don't touch'....wood is made to be touched and so I encouage folks to touch the wood.

These pieces here have been cut by using a Husqvarna 395XP and that means, 5.7 cu. inch, 7.1 hp of raw power, the bar and chain I used for these slabs is 24''. More will be coming in the days ahead, so for now lets just sit back and enjoy some photos, since I have all-ready done all the work….










....I am also showing two different trunks here which I will explain in the coming days….










....after first cut….










....and….










....I am trying to show how steady and sure the cut can be made in 'freehand'....










....and yes, there are secrets and tricks to doing this, which I will be revealing and if any-one has questions, well ask away….










....some slabs ready to be loaded….










....and yes, I do love that thickness in the slab….










....first cut off another trunk….










....more cuts, maybe for some-ones rustic mantle piece….










....second cut….










....after third cut….










....didn't know what to do with this one….










....and then I cut and looked….










....stopping to look at some New England countryside in the fall can be a thing of beauty….










....and so I turned and looked at some more colors….










....well now it's time to start gathering my slabs….










....and as I was telling in an earlier blog story, these trunks were given to me to use as firewood….at least that's what the ones giving were seeing….I saw more into the heart of the wood….










....and as every cowboy knows, at end of day when all is loaded and work is done, it's time to climb aboard my steel horse and ride for home….










....with the moon at my back….










One more note in closing, I am only to happy to answer any questions you may have, but as my days are long and busy, please excuse me if I sometimes take a day or two to get back.

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Firewood they said? Heresy!

A world of endless, spalted, wonderful possibilities I see here.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


S W E E T !!!

the unknown remains is perhaps a stand-up sculpture?

Again, I love how you take time to share your surroundings with us - it's not all about the "work"


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## scottb (Jul 21, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


I"m impressed with that freehand chainsaw work.


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Freehand?!? AMAZING…. And I imagine the givers of firewood may like to reconsider their gift if they were to see the beauty that you released…

Well done.


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## TreeBones (May 21, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Great stuff here. I also have the 395XP with a 36" bar that I use to rip (freehand) in half logs that are 48" and larger in diamiter, then they will fit on my mill that will only take a 36" dia. log. I will have to take photos next time.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Nice job Frank, there ain't many men can cut that straight. Truly amazing, beautiful slabs. your ole buddy mike


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Hello to all;

--hi Jojo; yep that's right….endless opportunity is all-ways on my horizon, but then when it comes to workin' the wood, some might even accuse me of….'heterodoxy'. I all-most love these words as much as I love wood….

--hi Debbie; that's a second there on the stand-up 'freeform' sculpture. I've all-ready been thinking on that one and even have a picture in my head. As far as my surroundings go, well if what I did was work….I think I would loose my mind and yes, my camera is all-ways with me, so I can capture seconds in the now….

--hi Scott; ....and thank you….

--hello Rob; shuhhhh….maybe we should not tell them, LOL. Actually these folks are artist types also and so when I mentioned the slabs to them, they were excited and happy. They live in the big apple city, so what are they going to do with wood slabs down there….and then also, I all-ways make and give some-thing in return….

--hello there Ron; I figured you would have one of these beasts around and likewise I also have a 36'' bar for when I go 'freehanding' on the bigger ones. I look forward to some of your photos….

--hi Jockmike; all-ways glad to hear from you and thanks for your words of encouragement. Actually any-one can do this, if they have the time and patience or is that patience and time? I once asked for patience and was rewarded with many patients, as patient trees to work with….

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## bryano (Aug 19, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Beautiful slabs Frank and Wow ! the New England countryside is awesome to.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Frank some great wood. Nice tour through the cutting.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


--hi Bryano; thanks for your words of encouragement and appreciation! As for the new England countryside, yes it is beauti-full this time of year….but then I also know that what comes next is New England snow….but then since your from PA, you also know about that. Come to think of it, PA's got nice countryside also….

--hello Karson; as you must know by now, your all-ways welcome on my tours. And have a very good weekend picnic down your way….

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## deeker (Jan 14, 2008)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Nice slabs! I would get shot if I used anything but a stihl chainsaw in this area. What kind of wood? I own a norwood bandsaw here in utah, second driest state. We have cut all kinds of logs, many that were headed to the fireplace. Hate to see any wood besides true scrap go there. We have been cutting alot of apricot and Mt. Mahogany as well as juniper (some call it cedar) and blue stain ponderosa pine. Just learning how to make furniture. The sawing stuff is easy. I split up a 58" dbh cottonwood with a stihl 088 and a 4' bar to fit on the sawmill. One hell of a lot of work! But was worth it.

Keep up the good work.

Kevin


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Slab Wood Tales" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> Slab Wood Tales
> 
> ...


Hello Kevin;
--glad to see that you made it here to LmberJocks and welcome!

Yes, out where you live I do understand is Stihl country, but over here, (NH) Husqvarna is still king….although Jonsered and Stihl are still in there, with those Stihl folks gaining ground. I used to use the Jonsered's for years, but changed over to Husky seven or eight years ago. I also know folks who use the Stihl's, so in the end I guess on might say, whatever works and keeps on working that's the one to use. I used to have cylinder head blowouts on the Jonsered's and since I switched over to Husky only one problem last summer, where I scoured the piston and in the process took out the cylinder also. That was on my Husqvarna 395xp, which is one great hog of a slab maker.

The wood in the above pictures is maple, which I now have stickered and drying outside in front of my barn. Most of what I slab cut is oak, maple and birch, with some pine and ash. Every one I talk to out your way talks of the Juniper wood, and I have seen some of this used in rustic furniture which is a very beautiful wood. I just have not been able to make it out your way to get any of it….but hope to some day get a hold of some, for some 'free form' sculpture and furniture.

And yes, I also know and understand about the work that goes into this kind of sawing….but in the end like you say, it sure is worth it. What makes it double worth it is when you also finish a piece of furniture and then can say, not only did I build the piece of furniture, but I also dropped the tree and slabbed the wood.

Well it's been good talking with you, and like I was saying before….welcome to LJ and if you have any questions about making furniture, I'm sure there are a lot of us around to give you our opinions. So feel free to ask and also you have a lot to give as there are many here also who like//want to chainsaw wood.

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"More Safety, Chainsaw....Broadax" --by RusticWoodArt*

*More Safety, Chainsaw….Broadax*

Well that's it….LOL

....I'm not able to blog my story I had thought to put in here this morning, since I was looking through the forums and I saw a question asked about; "If you where a hand plane?"! This got my mind to turning and so where I was going to go with "Slabbin' at Wood" is out the door for today.

Also let me say that I need to go and set up some photo jigs, so that I can also take some pictures of how the saw is in position for the rip cuts. This is not easy for me to do as I also once explained in an-other blog story, that I've not yet quite evolved into a creature yet with four hands….maybe three, but not four. I had planed on doing this last evening, but by that time, my day was done and the sun was going down…. and my mind had all-ready started to shut down in the physical realm.

Ah yes, very good place to add some safety tips, since we are talking about being tired in body and mind….more safety tips to think upon….

"*I never use a chainsaw when my body or mind are past their prime of sharpness for the day….*"

"*I will not go near a chainsaw after I have eaten a meal and I am now stomach full.*" Now I know that this one may seem as a hard safety tip to follow, but let me also refine and tune down even a little closer to home. "*I never use a power tool or hand tool after a hard days work, when I have come home and have also eaten supper.*"

Some say accidents happen, but I say; "*accidents are brought about by planning to be not safe!*"

When your body or mind is past it's prime for the day and you now engage in activity after a meal on a full stomach, your sense of 'sharpness' has been dulled down and you are now '*dumbed down*'. If you will be honest with yourself and think back to the near misses and hits you have accumulated over the course of your life, how many came after the evening meal, out in your work shop? Food will slow your reaction times down and lulls one into an area of dangerous false security. I have found that by staying away from food, till my day is done….keeps me on a 'live edge' and in oneness with the wood I work. Again just my two cents worth….

....so now one may ask; "if I were a hand plane?", and what does this have to do with "Slabbin' at Wood"? Well, if I were a hand plane I would be very sad….since I would have realized that I had missed my goal in life of being a BROADAX!!! To me and my way of thinking a broadax is so much more of an instrument for finishing wood then a hand plane could ever amount to….and the possibilities are endless here. Maybe when I get done with my story blog here on ''slabbin' at wood'', I will get around to doing one on the broadax. Broadax, froe, adzes, slicks….now there's a good one to use in place of a hand plane….slick, just 'slick' that wood away. Contrary to what a lot of folks think, I even use 'power' hand planers for getting a finished piece of wood.

So in getting back to the broadax, which timber framers where using before chainsaws, there is the beauty of working the wood with your hands, by an art form of tooling the wood, that not even many today have yet come to realize. Many sizes and shapes are these broadax's and then there is also….the added responsibility of having to write * a new set of safety tips* for the broadax….hmmm.

Here's one picture of a broadax I use for finishing wood and also for distressing the wood….










Now lets look at some more rip cuts in some pine and the slabs created, that are by chainsaw….










....and an-other view from topside….










....two logs here, one was large enough to also rip out an inside slab….










....what one rips is according to what you are creating for, some slabs make very good bench tops, while some are used for rustic furniture….










....and in all of this their is much freedom to let the wood express it's-self. Pine makes for some nice bench tops and flower benches as this one was ripped with a chainsaw and then finished with a 'power' hand planner….legs are lilac….










....and then I also happend to notice what one of cats was thinking about all this….'half-lap' seemed to just take it all in stride….










And yes I will get those pictures soon of the 'how-when-where-why' of my rip cutting jigs, which are in essence very simple and yet very usefull.

Now I want to mention that I'm not 'be-littling' any who use 'hand planes' or are asking questions….but then at times my own 'two cents' of humor quicks in and what can I say…."*if I were and if I could, I would be a BROADAX*"!!!

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"More Safety, Chainsaw....Broadax" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *More Safety, Chainsaw….Broadax*
> 
> ...


Wise advice coming from an experienced man.

Remember folks: *risk factors doesn't add but multiply the probability of an accident to happen.* (again another one I should be grateful my flying trainning for). Indeed meals, specially high-carbs ones produce a certain amount of drowsiness. Add the tiredness cuulated along the day, a chainsaw or an ax and you have an accident waiting to happen.

*Frank*, I see you use regular good ole exterior paint por sealing endgrain, isn't it?

By the way I do love cats (and their name!) and I must say that all those slabs are lustful.


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"More Safety, Chainsaw....Broadax" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *More Safety, Chainsaw….Broadax*
> 
> ...


ha! the cat and the bench proving that, for some situations, three legs are better than four..


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

frank said:


> *"More Safety, Chainsaw....Broadax" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *More Safety, Chainsaw….Broadax*
> 
> ...


Great blog Frank. There have been a number of times that I wish I done just that. Most of my accidents have happened after I should have stopped working for the day.

Great name for the cat. Nice looking cat too! My new kitten is Arthur Guinness. I've always loved cats, my girls noted one time that at least 1/2 the pictures there is of me as a kid I had a cat in my arms.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"More Safety, Chainsaw....Broadax" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *More Safety, Chainsaw….Broadax*
> 
> ...


Wonder-full comments from all and hello;
--hi Jojo; yes….I use what I find around the place here….'*use it up, wear it out, do with out*' is an old New England saying that has much wisdom even for today. Any-ways, I don't mind disappointing all those big name companies for chemicals to protect the wood, that want to disappoint my wallet with all their prices….ugh! Latex acrylic exterior house paint, (best if there is a sheen, since it's the sheen that adds the protection) seals the wood just fine. I will cut it, slab it and paint it….with two coats, by going around the stickered wood with one coat and then I do it again.

And what makes this so 'very good' is that I will visit my local paint stores and collect all their mis-tints and re-turns for free or sometimes I'll have to give fifty cents to a dollar on the can. Ha!....I've actually came away with ten - twenty gallons this way for free….and then some of those places started selling for a dollar or so. Home Depot and Lowes are also great places to get mis-tints along with yard sales.

The latex acrylic exterior house paints work just great….and also, who said woodworking had to be expensive? Remove the middle man from working with wood and connect straight back to our roots with wood….

--hi Rob; I'm glad you saw that link be-tween the 'cat and the bench', which goes to prove how much you really are seeing. I may have to get much harder here with the pictures, since your starting to expose my riddles of how all connects….LOL….

--hi Bob; I like that name Arthur Guinness, so how-when-what-why did this name come forth? I thought we had just lost one of our cats, Bladed Scarf, (yes, that name is after a famous timber framing scarf joint) when he did not come home for four days. I keep trying to tell them, that there are bigger ones out there in those woods then they, but still cats will be cats….

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"More Safety, Chainsaw....Broadax" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *More Safety, Chainsaw….Broadax*
> 
> ...


Very clever use of available resources, too bad the resellers are starting to see the business in it!


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"Homelite 26 LCS" --by RusticWoodArt*

*Homelite 26 LCS*

I thought I would post an-other one of my collected chainsaws here from the bygone days of 'golden oldies'....

....and when one really gets to studying these 'beasts', one can also much more appreciate where we are today, with chainsaws in terms of *safety*, (don't you just love the safety word) weight, horsepower and ease of the cut in the wood….










....the Homelite 26 LCS was introduced in 1951 and discontinued in 1953….










....Engine Displacement: 6.63 cu. in.; Cylinders: 1,....










....Chrome plated aluminum cylinders;....










....Cylinder Bore was: 2.375 in. with a piston stroke of 1.50 in.,.....










....manual hand pump for the chain bar oiler….










....external oil supply lines….










....manufacture said horsepower on this one was 4 H.P.;....










....now here comes a 'how-when-where-why-what' question….










....some-thing has changed, any takers out there with an answer….










....I just don't know about looking into this ones face….










Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS*
> 
> ...


Another old-timer from the King of the Chainsaws.

*Frank*, how many of those beasts do you own in all? And how many of them are still in regular service in your daily escapades to mill the surrounding forests?

In the "query picture" I can spot a new carb or pump or whatever it is and rerouted lines that go into it. But mainly, what I see is that you rotated the handle 90º (and I guess that's what you was refering to)... is this a special mod for your vertical freehand milling?

Do you plan to restore it to working condition?


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## TreeBones (May 21, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS*
> 
> ...


Does this saw have a chain or belt drive? Back in 51 i'am sure you were a real pro to have one of these.
Safty first!


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS*
> 
> ...


Ah-ha, when you rotate the handle, thus meaning a need to rotate the saw, the carburetor needed to rotate too probably since it may incorporate a float.

Is that it? I noticed (with Jojo's help) that the fuel line on the two pictures changed positioning.


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## jude (Aug 3, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS*
> 
> ...


I wonder why they discontinued them in 1953? newer model?


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS*
> 
> ...


Hello everyone;
--and maybe I should change the name of this story to a '*gathering of gearheads*', since the gearheads sure are coming out of the woodwork here….

--hi Jojo. Ron, Rob and Jude;
....and yes it may just be easier to address you all with your questions and remarks together as I ramble on….

Well as to how many of these 'golden oldie beasts' I own….not many and this one also does not run at the moment. Oh course I'm all-ways telling myself that yes, some-day….one-day I'm going to get them up and running….seems like this one would sound close to an old Harley. My understanding is also that back in the the fifties, Indian Motorcycle Company also made some chainsaws….

I'm going to also be posting some of the ones that I am currently using in the forest and woods, these will be coming next and they are quite newer.

Jojo started off right with the "rotated handle" and Rob followed up with "the carburetor needed to rotate too probably since it may incorporate a float." Yes, in this chainsaw when you went to cut with the saw in the side horizontal position, there was the need to keep the 'float' floating and so the handle rotated, along with the carb, float and fuel lines….make sense?

Next Ron followed up with a wonder-full observation and question by asking; "Does this saw have a chain or belt drive"? I just love talking 'gearhead talk'....the Homelite 26 LCS had a 'belt reduction system' of 2.75:1; (belt drive) and also worked with a 'rotary valve' for air intake. Now I'm going to throw out an-other what-when-where- why-how here….since there was a governor on this beast, which worked with the rotary valve, what part did the 'spring loaded governor gate' play and why?

With a weight of 27 pounds for powerhead only, out in the woods one only needed to hold this one in position and the size and bulk of the beast would drive the saw down. I have also read some reviews where folks who used this one, mention that one was able to work with the valve port to speed up the engine, to get a four cycle hot cam effect by modifying the 'when' of intake timing. Hot sawing and hot caming in the early fifties….

Hello Jude; yes, my understanding is that this one was replaced by the the Homelite 5-30 and I'm really unsure as I'm just going from memory, but I will try and look this up for sure. And also I'm sure there were no-tears shed when this one passed on, as my understanding of it was that due to bulk of size and running speed, (slow) this one was a pioneer in what was yet to come!

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"Homelite 26 LCS and more....." --by RusticWoodArt*

*Homelite 26 LCS and more…..*

....and so I thought I would toss in a few more photo's of the Homelite 26 LCS model chainsaw, along with some shots of the gear reduction drive system, 2.75:1, that it used….










....and along with the belt reduction, one will also notice the external plumbing line for the oiler, at the entry way into the chain bar. The oiler was manual, and thumb operated and while checking this one out on Saturday afternoon , I can affirm that pump is still able to off load a quantity of oil….










....an-other close-up again of the belt that was used for the drive system, much like what came later on Chevy's and such….










While looking at this one, I happened to get started thinking about the cylinder sitting there on top and so I am also going to include some photo's here of the scoured cylinder coming of my Husqvarna 395 XL. I had to replace this one this past June, as the rpm's revved to high and somewhere in the internals of the cylinder, I managed to score a piston and cylinder. Often when slabbin' and cutting the wood in ripping mode, internal temperatures, gas and fuel mix and rpm's will all start thinking on their own and then multitudes of things can happen. I have blown holes in the tops of pistons and had engine freeze ups, while this one happen to end up with a scorched piston and also damage to the walls of the cylinder. Often I have thought of going to a larger bore in the cylinder and using oversized pistons….well, time will tell….










....you can start to see the scouring that has taken place, to the inside of the cylinder wall here….










....down and dirty deeds done here, while the piston and rings all bear the brunt of internal strife….










....and one more shot here. Once this action has started taking place within, there is no-reversing or stopping what comes next….tear down and re-pacement of cylinder and piston…..










I love working with wood and I also love working with the machines that allow me to produce my own wood in a professional capacity. For my-self it is not an option to buy wood for my 'wood art'....and so this means that I will cut the tree, slab the wood, dry it and then I will work the wood till it becomes the all it was meant to be.

This means that I will find the soul of the tree and in that finding I will also be found out my-self, by the wood, till we both are working in harmony. Working the wood, means that I will work the wood by whatever means there is in the beginning of the process and for me that is with a chainsaw. This means that I also must know how to work on and with the machines that I work with, while also developing an ear that is tuned into the internal workings of those machiines and at the same time, my external surroundings. Now it is in this external and yet all-ways close by surroundings that I now go to as I give you a picture of a maple tree that is starting to show colors of beauty….

....after working on those previous photo's on Saturday, I happened to look up out of my garage and here is a picture of the Lady that greeted me….










....and after walking out of the garage and looking north I was greeted with an-other seeing of beauty….and let me just remark that this looks as a halo over a mighty ancient one off in the distance. The trees tell stories that if one can reach into the distance of sightings such as this and find the place where the halo has rested above an ancient, that there one will find wisdom and healing in the 'ancient of ages….










Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS and more....." --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS and more…..*
> 
> ...


I'm sure the info on the chainsaw is fascinating (ha ha) .. now the sky!!! I spent a lot of time this weekend admiring the clear blue sky above me. Gorgeous sun; warm weather; and blue skies.. can life get any better?


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS and more....." --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS and more…..*
> 
> ...


Hello Debbie;
--chainsaws, wood, sky and colors of shaded blues….and so you asked; "can life get any better then this"?

Well yes, especially if one were to be were I was yesterday….'one top of the world'....










...now here is where I ended up yesterday…..looking for 'old growth'....'ancient ones' and…..rustic tree spirits, well I'll have to see about blogging this one soon, after I do some more here with sabbin' in the freehand….










Ah yes, I guess you might say I was out doing a walkabout….
Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Homelite 26 LCS and more....." --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Homelite 26 LCS and more…..*
> 
> ...


Turnin chains and street names
Turnin leaves and cloud wreathes
Turnin season with different meaning

Thanks for the post, Frank..I appreciate your time spent on sharing your experiences.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*

*Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*

....so here we go again, best grab your safety glasses, mickey mouse ears and put your chaps on, as we journey outside into the wonder-full world of workin' with wood….

*Safety is*:

1) eye protection
2) ear protection
3) leg and groin protection

....and….if we were entering the woods to take some trees down….

4) head protection!

*Safety is*; having a good mental disposition….or right mindset!

*Safety is* understanding all those things that can go wrong and being ready, willing and able to deal with all those multiple possibilities that can come your way all at once.

*Safety is* knowing that the blow rag you carry or should carry out here, is more then for blowing ones nose and that this can be your first link to continuing your life, should things get out of hand….so choose your blow rag well! Ones blow rag, can be ones lifeline to continuing life!

*Safety is* understanding that the clothing one wears out here, is more than being of comfortable fit and so wear your layers and be able to shed and put back on, as your body tells you what it needs!

....*safety, safety and more safety, the safety you forget, can be the last thing you ever forgot to remember. *

Well, so here we are at where we left off last time, out here at the woodpile. This is where we are practicing the art of 'freehand' slabbin' some maple up into slabs for future use in some bench's and tops….










....I have my jig system in place for holding the log off the ground, what no store bought systems here….










....here one will notice the self made wedging system for holding the log upright and in position. Yes, there at the base where the log rests on the dogs, (dogs, a timber framers definition of the blocks he uses to hold and work his wood off of….some dogs have it, some dogs don't and never will….)....










....we are now going to take a good look at what makes this form of 'freehand' slabbin' so success-full in my opinion…..










....the log teeth on a chainsaw are what grips the saw in place to the log and though removed by many loggers, I retain them as this is what allows me to pivot my saw from a horizontal position to a vertical position in the technique of making these cuts….study what I am saying here and practice this, and one will be able to make these cuts without any-other need of jig! The method of 'freehanding' described herein is of my own design….never was taught it, first time I am showing it and yet I'm sure that there are many others out there using much the same approach. Ron....TreeBones has said; "I also have the 395XP with a 36" bar that I use to rip (freehand) in half logs that are 48" and larger in diameter, then they will fit on my mill that will only take a 36" dia. log"....










....next I will make a mark in the log of where I am going to start my cut, here you see that I have notched the end of the log and stuck a knife therein to bring to your attention, ( please remember to remove the knife if you are taking photos….)....










....see how those teeth or dogs are setting on the log, as my cut is started in the horizontal position, I will slowly tilt the saw into the log using those teeth the keep my saw level and at a pivot point….










....one more shot here of the saw sitting on top of the log. Now lets start the saw up and make some chips of wood dust….










*Safety minute brought to by RusticWoodArt*:
I'm sure we've all seen those pictures of folks starting their chainsaws, with one hand holding the saw off the ground and then they take their other hand and pull the rope handle to get the saw started….BAD NEWS, you just failed my class….please collect your gear and go home! NEVER, NEVER EVER start a chainsaw any place, except for on the ground, if you want to remain all in one piece and live a healthy life….besides, I don't want to have to clean up the mess….

....well the saws running and so we pick it up off the ground, place the saw on the edge of the log and after making a starter cut on my mark, I am now tilting the saw from it's horizontal position to a continuous downward motion of cut in the vertical, (you have now entered the twilight zone, know your surroundings and for all those that would be around, make sure that they know….no distractions allowed) and please remember that down there on the ground below you, you have two feet which you are expected to keep….










....an-other photo….










....see how the saw is resting on those teeth….










....the teeth are what one is using here, to set up the cut and maintain the cut….it's all about maintaining that pivot point….










....one will also notice now the saw bar sticking through the bottom of the log, this is a 24'' bar and chain I am using here….if the log were larger I would step up to a 36'' bar and chain. One point I will mention here and talk about later, is that it is due also to the length of the bar, I am able also to maintain a true cut, knowing how to use the length of the bar work for me, also makes the bar become my jig system for cutting slabs in the 'freehand'....










....and one more of the end of the bar coming through the log….










....and on this point I will leave you with an-other slab photo and continue this again tomorrow….










....all my seeing is what lies before me….










Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## mot (May 8, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


That's a good blog, Frank. Thanks!


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


A real keeper *Frank*. Thank you.

For what I have read till now, this is exactly the same method I was taught, only that in my case they told me to do it horizontally. Also on dogs and also pivoting the saw all the time along those teeth.

.








.

Even I've never tried the vertical variation, it seems to me easier to maintain the parallelism between cuts… but harder to maintain both feet attached to the end of the legs if you let your mind slip for a second. And I do know that you just *can not* allow yourself such luxury!

The only downside I see is that you have to be very careful when choosing or cleaning a terrain free of stones or any other potentially dangerous thing that could accidentally be hit by the tip of the bar.

The more I think about it, the more logical it looks to me. Working horizontally is *very* exhausting for you are all the time holding and fighting against the heavy weight of the saw engine. On the other hand though, using your system you allow the same weight to work as a counterbalance and thus help you.

All this doesn't make anything but to confirm what we already knew: you are a smart guy!


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## Fingersleft (Sep 25, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


Frank,

Thank's for the great tutorial. Can never get enough of chainsaw technique and SAFETY. These are potentially mean machines. My neighbor learned his lesson last year. Fortunately, all he has is a faily ugly scar to remind him. Still has all of his "parts and pieces" and they are still connected where they originally were. He will NOT start his saw off the ground again, I'm sure.

Unfortunately, the only thing I use my saw for is cutting firewood. I've got a lot of young pine on my property. And a lot of annual clearing of dead fall. These are the times I wished I lived closer to some good old growth hardwood forests.


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


This is one of those times where you don't want to "step up to" or "belly up to" the "bar"..

Frank, do you do anything special to make your cut so it will be perpendicular to the plane, you know straight up and down? I'd have to imagine that there would be logs where the teeth on one side of the bar would not engage the log on the same level on the other side of the bar. I know the rows of teeth may only be a inch apart, but we all know logs come in strange shapes and sizes. You may even have logs where the teeth only engage the log on one side of the bar only.

Perhaps, I'm jumping the gun (or saw) and should just be patient for the remainder of your fine blog.
Thanks!


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


Great stuff Frank.

Given all your chainsaw experience what would you buy if you were buying one today and it would be your only one?


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


*Rob*, I don't want to highjack *Frank's* thread but, in my limited experience, the width of the bar itself is enough to keep the saw going straight ahead, similarly as what a wide bandsaw blade does versus a narrow one. Both teeth only engage equally in a couple of cuts while cutting the central wider slabs, the rest of the time you are cutting at an angle with the log's bark and one of the sides always "goes away" from it, hence making impossible full contact of the teeth.

Even though you can only see the tip of the bar, it's easy to picture if you look at the photo I posted above.

But let's leave the expert himself explain this to us in the next post!


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


Hello to everyone here;

--thank you Tom….

--hi Bob//Fingersleft; the Black Forest, Colorado….hmmm, I'll have to check your area out and read more about where you live. Thanks for your backup on the safety need of starting these beasts on the ground and for your comments….comments are all-ways welcome….

--now lets see, hi Jojo and Rob….I will put off answering your questions till my next post, so hang in there. Great questions, great photo (thanks Jojo) and great comments here, and never feel like your hijacking any blog story of mine….I just throw the seeds out, another waters and whatever comes forth….so be it. I will mention that it's exciting to me, when I see others wanting to jump in and add to the comments in my stories, with their own interpretations of what//and what they feel qualified to answer. Thanks to both of you for the time and effort, with questions and experience, that the both of you are sharing….

--hi Bob; I would have a hard time offering up advice on an only 'one' chainsaw to buy as no-one will do, till I have more information as to what you are intending and wanting that chainsaw to do. Now you've got me going….what-when-where-how….! 
What is the saw mainly to be used for?
When will the saw be used?
Where will the saw be used?
How will the saw be used?
....and most important of all, how-when-where-what is your level of *SAFETY* knowledge….and remember we are talking about 'body-mind-spirit'? Once these can be answered, then one will know the type of chainsaw to buy. By the way, spent Sunday up in north country looking at an area called 'the bowl'. Waundered in for some miles…lookin' for old growth, and never saw an-other soul till late in the day as I was coming out,....thanks for stopping by….

Thanks you all.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## oscorner (Aug 7, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Going from Horizontal to Vertical in Freehand*
> 
> ...


Great blog, Frank! Are you using a rip chain on your saw or the standard crosscut type? If using a standard chain, I found that cutting horizontally produces nice long shavings and the saw isn't as over worked as if trying to cut with the saw as you have discribed, but with a rip chain your method would be best. You ended up with some nice slabs. I can hardly wait to see what you make with them.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

*"Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand" --by RusticWoodArt*

*Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand
*

And so it's time, time to get back on track here and answer some questions, plus try to give an understanding to any and all that want to try this type of slabbin' at wood.

One of the issuing egresses that make my projects so long, is the time and effort I take in the planning of the project from start to finish. I really do try and make use of telling the truth, that when I say 'hand made' the 'wood art' that I complete is just that….'hand made'. Hand made to me means that in the purist sense of using that term I have taken the tree down myself by chainsaw, slab cut by ripping chain or crosscut chain, (how do you like your pickle sliced?) de-barking the wood, sticking the wood, allowing for the time it takes the wood to dry and develop character, (making my own 'spalted maple') planning with broadax, slick, 'winding sticks', or here I will sometimes vary and re-saw with the bandsaw, making use of power planers, and again maybe going with a 54'' sander or smaller planer, butterfly's are put in place to stabilize the checks in the tops and now I can proceed to starting the details that make up these benches and tops. Now one might wonder how much time is spent up to this point in getting the wood ready for wood-working….well lets just say 3-4 years. So the question is, do you have 3-4 years or is it easier to make a trip to your local lumber box and buy the wood?

That being said, what I'm showing here is but one step in 'the process' that can take 3-4-and-5 years before a piece is ready to be called finished 'wood art'. Working wood in this manner can take time, however one must also understand that it's only at the beginning that one has to make do with not much wood, since as the years roll by, I am now working with wood that was all-ready started way back then. The maple that I am slabbin' in this article, is only one of many that will be slabbed this fall and winter and set aside as forgotten….but not forgotten as I watch over all the wood, outside and in.

So now we come to some questions that have been asked of me by various LumberJocks around the site here and so I will do my best to put at rest the suspense of 'unanswered questions'.

*'QUESTIONS BRING FORTH LIGHT'*, whereas in times past the multitudes were subjected to being as 'couch potatoes' in the process of dumbing down to think and act; as after the great teachers. It was in this arena I once lived, where if I payed to read their books and hear their words, I could then also mouth their words and not having to search for my own way….I became the representation of a mirrored woodworker.

I love questions, I love to ask questions, I love to study how to ask questions, so that I can get an answer that will send me on my way, better prepared to work with what I have received. It has been said; "ask and recieve" and then one day I realized that the asking was only of second importance and the matter of first importance was what was I going to do with 'what I received'?

*'QUESTIONS DESERVE THE FREEDOM OF AN ANSWER'*....

1) "*Frank, do you do anything special to make your cut so it will be perpendicular to the plane, you know straight up and down?*"

This is where practice comes into play….or might I also say; practice and the weight of a big saw plus gravity and also the length and width of my chain bar. The chain bar itself acts as a guide for me, I mean when you set the teeth of a moving chain into the wood with a bar 24''-36'' long, one had best be in an understanding of what is doing the guiding. I guide the saw, but the bar itself is also guiding the 'what' and 'where' of my 'plane'.

When I am in 'the cut', my eyes, ears, hands and body are all in tune with the saw, cut and the wood. Not sure how to explain this, but it's as if I'm many dimensional at this point, and even before knowing from the vibration of saw and wood that the cut needs to be corrected….I just know and therefore make corrections. Kind of like driving down the road and before I round that upcoming curve, I just know it's time to correct my speed before I meet the stare of radar.

I used to draw all types of lines on the wood to try and make clean straight cuts….never worked for me, and yes I know that some use guide bars also….too much work for what I'm after. Also I just recently finished reading an article about a sawer who uses a mirror on the other side to keep the tip of his saw in line of plane with the cut. However he is cutting to horizontal and I can see how this would work very good….but then thats why I like my way of cutting, for myself this is the easiest way I have found, 'freehanding in the vertical' and letting gravity take care to keeping me straight as a plumb line.

I hope this answer helps….and if there are more questions, ask away!

2) "*I'd have to imagine that there would be logs where the teeth on one side of the bar would not engage the log on the same level on the other side of the bar.*"

Yes there are logs where this does happen, and so I will further talk of this along with the next question.

3) "*You may even have logs where the teeth only engage the log on one side of the bar only.*"

Because the log is a 'live edge' there will all-ways be places where the saw and the 'teeth' are going to vary, and this is where the 'pivot point' comes into play. It's in the continuous movement that I am able to achieve such straight cuts, so my saw is realy not so much concerned with riding the lentgh of the log as with keeping in tune with the 'pivot point'. And so I will add here what I have all-ready stated elsewhere; "during the cut, *I'm CONSTANTLY GOING THROUGH A CONTINUOUS MOTION* of horizontal to vertical and then sweeping up, I cut a line and start all over again. Therefore I am in one focus with the log and have all-ready worked out or cleaned out the ground area around my feet, so that I know where they are at all times." When one starts to understand how to use gravity, the weight of the saw, the length and width of the bar and 'pivot point' all to-gether, then the knots, bumps and 'live edge' of the log really have no-bearing.

I also have noted above how *I am constantly going through a continuous motion of horizontal to vertical and then sweeping up*. This is what I call a 'wood ballet dance' that carries on from the time I start my cut till I finish my cut. When the cut is started, I am in-tune totally with my surroundings which include the log, chainsaw, earth or terra and landscape, air and wind, plus my body with feet, hands and face and then also I am of perfect mindset. From my point of view, if any of these are out of order, then their dis-order speaks louder to me then the bumps on the log.

4) "….*the width of the bar itself is enough to keep the saw going straight ahead, similarly as what a wide bandsaw blade does versus a narrow one.*"

Yes, and a good answer which shows understanding….

....so I will now try and show by picture, some helps that yet may inspire and define what I am doing and talking about. The first cut I make will be to set my saw teeth in the width of the log slab that I am cutting and so, this is no-hard core measurement….usually around 3''-4'', (for the purpose of these cuts, understand that although I talk of making a cut….as if thee are many cuts, please note that from the first set of chain into the log, all is continuous cuts)....










....gravity now takes over as I am sitting on my 'pivot point' as I proceed downward in the vertical and then after reaching the end of #2….I now sweep the saw up and set my teeth again for the next sweep down….










....#1 sets my saw teth for width of cut, #2 sets the saw into the log and carries downward in vertical mode, where arriving at vertical postion with the saw, I now sweep up, in #3 to start all over again as my saw moves back….










....once again note #1, #2 and # 3 is all about a continuous sweeping motion, the only thing that slows down as I proceed with my cut is the rpm's of the engine as I rev-down on my upward sweep and rev- up to full throttle on my downward sweep….










....heres one more where I have included #4 to show how the saw teeth are set. There is nothing complicated in this process and then we all know that practie makes perfect….










....with practice, one can make straight cuts in the 'freehand'....










Any questions….remember to ask and so I will now leave off on answering the next set of questions till I come back hope-fully tomorrow.

5) "*Frank! Are you using a rip chain on your saw or the standard crosscut type?*"

6) "….*if using a standard chain, I found that cutting horizontally produces nice long shavings and the saw isn't as over worked as if trying to cut with the saw as you have described,*"

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank
RusticWoodArt

[email protected]
http://frank.wordpress.com/

-
"....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood…."


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## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand
> *
> ...


I never thought about a rip chain. I have done this with a standard (I guess cross cut chain?) I'll have to see about a rip chain . 
I just did a search and came up with this (http://www.builditplans.com/Blog/2004/07/ripping-chain-myth.html)
He says rip chains are a waste of money? I would love to hear opinions on that.


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## Frank (Nov 19, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand
> *
> ...


Hello Snowdog;
--again till one has tried both the rip and crosscut chain and formed their own opinion….what matters what all the other voices are saying?

You will not find a rip chain in any HD or Lowes, have to order or make your own. Also the difference is in the angle and style of chain….skip cut, semi chisel and so on. Crosscut chains usually run with a 30-32 degree angle, while a rip cut chain's angle is 0-8 degrees….For all around ripping I usually stay around 4 degrees.

I've read all these different opinions and such over many years now, but when the saw I'm using costs $1000.-$1500, do you think it's smart to overwork that engine? Unless one knows how to work on their own engine….tear down and put back together, an engine cylinder and labor can cost you around $400.00, if not more, like what do you do when the piston comes through the head? I mean at full throttle for three to five minutes, I'm going to use the angle that gives my engine some release of stress.

So now, you'll just have to wait till my next blog story to hear some more….

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank


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## RobS (Aug 11, 2006)

frank said:


> *"Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand
> *
> ...


Hmm, Practice, practice, practice makes perfect. Thanks for the detailed pic's and for answering the questions.


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

frank said:


> *"Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand" --by RusticWoodArt*
> 
> *Wood Ballet Dancing in the FreeHand
> *
> ...


Perfectly clear explanation *Frank*, your blog is always a goldmine. Thank you.


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