# MDF shooting boards?



## Smile_n_Nod (Jan 20, 2011)

Has anyone here made a shooting board from MDF? I've come across several sources that recommend MDF for the base (but hardwood for the stops), but I wonder how well the edge of the MDF stands up to the plane and whether the MDF itself causes excessive wear on the plane.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Paul Sellers in his video mentioned he uses a plywood board that came with a bonded "hardened surface". The surface (a type of plastic I assume) reduces the friction. MDF would work for flatness, but maybe someone can recommend a specific product with a surface like Paul recommends.

Here's the video btw:


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## SteveHas (Jan 9, 2014)

I would take a look at a video by Rob Cosman.
He uses an mdf shooting board and the way it is designed only the "cheeks" of the plane run on the mdf. The cutter never touches it, plus the fence at 90 or what ever angle the shooting board is designed for never contacts the blade neither. I use it on almost any task in my shop. I always finish with the shooting board even after my diablo blade cuts it at the table saw. Nothing is cleaner than shooting with a nice sharp blade.


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## derekcohen (Jul 15, 2007)

As long as you (1) seal the MDF to prevent the incursion of moisture, and (2) add a hardwood edge, then you can use MDF …










Regards from Perth

Derek


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I made mine from Extera brand exterior grade mdf. More dense and stable (and heavy).
Sanded, shellac, waxed, done.
Bill


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I made mine from Extera brand exterior grade mdf. More dense and stable (and heavy).
Sanded, shellac, waxed, done.
Bill


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Dang double post. Sorry.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

> Paul Sellers in his video mentioned he uses a plywood board that came with a bonded "hardened surface". The surface (a type of plastic I assume) reduces the friction. MDF would work for flatness, but maybe someone can recommend a specific product with a surface like Paul recommends.
> 
> Here s the video btw:
> 
> ...


Formica is the hard plastic surface


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Mine is Melamine over Baltic ply piece.
Hardwood stops. If you apply Melamine to Baltic. Do both surfaces DAMHIK.
Even good ply can warp if not properly stored.
My last one has been in use for over 20 yrs.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

P. Sellers uses a plywood made for concrete formwork.
the faces are covered with a slippery plastic which looks like bakelite.
Available in all "home improvement" shops in Belgium.
Not so many wooden houses here.


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## dbeck (Jun 1, 2017)

When you speak of the plastic type surfaces are you referring to the ramp the plane rides on? You wouldnt want the board that your piece sits on to be slippery would you? I have a dissability so it may just be me but holding the piece solid so it doesnt slip would be tough on slippery plastic, wouldnt it? I went so far as to use psa sand paper on mine. I hope this doesnt sound like im stating fact i am a newbie and just learning.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I use ply but I put strips of uhmw tape on the edge of the board and the keeper strip on the right side of mine. Works like a champ for me. Just another option. I almost have a roll of 3/4 uhmw pe tape floating around the shop for different needs.


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## mitch_56 (Feb 7, 2017)

For the Paul Sellers material, there are a number of flavors of plywood which come with melamine on one side.
As for a better, more water-resistant MDF, Medex was the trade name…it's the MDF variant that the countertops are made out of at places like Starbucks. A bit better physical properties over normal MDF, and much improved moisture resistance.

However, now I don't see Medex anymore around here, and there's an upgraded replacement, IIRC it's called Apex MR50. They also make an Apex FR which has enhanced fire resistance.


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