# Blanket Chest lids



## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

First off, I'm a Novice at this whole woodworking thing. I had a shop class or two in high school (Don't want to think how long ago that was.) I travelled alot with the military and collected several tools over the years and am just now trying my hand at a few projects.

I am currently making 4 raised panel blanket chests for my kids for Christmas. They are made from red oak, just over 3/4" thick, they measure 44×21 x 21. The lid is 44×21. My question is do I need strips of wood for braces under the lid. (Not exactly sure what they are called.) I have seen alot of pictures without them, but when I see a lid with them it makes me wonder if I the extra support/stability from these. Is there a rule of thumb for something like this? Is this just for looks mainly? I would appreciate any assistance you can throw at me.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

First, welcome to the site. Second…not sure just what you are talking about. Where under the lid? What kind of brace? Are you working from a plan? Can you include a picture?


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

This is NOT the blanket chest I am making, but it shows the braces/supports pretty well. (It's the 3 wooden slats that run perpendicular to the lids grain.) I've seen some with 2 and some with 3 pieces.

I do have a plan, (It doesn't call for these) I have altered it some but not to drastic. The lid is made of 13/16" red oak, three 44" long pieces 7" wide, routed a glue bit on the edges and glued together. I appreciate the help. Google and Yahoo didn't show a whole lot, but it's probably from my lack of knowledge or explanation.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Those are often times put on to keep the top from warping, or separating…especially if that is two or three sections glued together.


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## cabs4less (Nov 2, 2010)

If you use the battons ( what i call them) make sure your screw holes are enlogated for wood movement ans its sup to you if you want to use them you can do bread board ends if ye worried about warpin and dont like the look of battons


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Note that piece is not raised panel. I assume you are going to make 2 or 3 panels per top? I don't think you'd need the support strips. Add them only if you think they add a "cool" factor. Unless they are added correctly, they can cause the panel to split. Don't glue them (or only glue one end) and make sure you elongate the screw hole a tad.


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

Thanks for all the help.

Gary, I am pretty sure warping won't be an issue even though there are 3 sections glued together. The wood was flat to start with and is 3 years old (At least) and doesn't show any negative signs of twisting, warping or cupping. I am new, and could be wrong.

Cabs, I'm already past the bread board ends being an option. (Not that I can't change it, just more work) Battons I'll remember from here on out.

Don, The lid won't be a raised panel, just a flat surface like what is in the picture. Thanks for the tip on the elongating the screw hole.

This site has helped me so much!!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

if your past the bread board ends being an option, sounds like there should be some pictures posted.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Just a look at one with a bread board edge:


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

Here are couple pics with my cell phone. They are all the same, just will be stained different colors.

I just got done staining and sealing 2 of them and these are ready to assemble. Then the finish!
They are spread out on my garage floor (that's all I have for work space.)








!


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)




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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

How are you raising the paneling and molding the stiles? Router table, shaper?


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

I only have a router table. Being so new, I don't see a need for a shaper just yet.

So far I am very pleased with the progress, (Even if my regular job keeps interferring with my hobbies)
I'm only concerned with the corners fitting as well as they did during the dry fit. They are 45 degree cuts with a snug spline to hold them together. ( I got that idea from a woodworkers journal magazine and I thought it look great. Hope I didn't overstep my abilities to soon.) Should start the glueing process in the next day or so and can get you a "nearly" completed picture then. (Need to find a little slower drying glue to give me enough working time before I clamp them together.)


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## casual1carpenter (Aug 16, 2011)

msparky14

'First off, I'm a Novice' .... I believe that is a major understatement.

I would be interested is seeing more pictures as this progresses. So far it looks like you are doing a great job. Was the plan yours or purchased? Not that I'm in the market for a blanket chest, but I do enjoy seeing fine wood work along with style and dimension ratio, etc as an artistic endeavor.


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

Casual 1,
I am a novice, really. I'm usually to busy to start any projects that are of real value. Usually my tools are for repairs around the house or yard. Like a small awning for for my shed doors to keep rain from running inside and soaking the floor. My biggest projects to this date have been a quilt rack and a handful of shadow boxes.

I appreciate the compliment, and yes I did purchase a plan from woodcraftplans.com (it's the traditional American blanket chest.) I used their dimensions of 44 X 21 X 21, but altered it some. I didn't want the drilled holes and wood plugs showing, so opted for a raised panel look with the corners being mitered at 45 degree angle and a spline to join them together. ( I got that plan from a woodworkers journal magazine I had, but I really liked the look it gives as being one pieces of wood, but what a hassle at assembling.)

Most of the project worked out well, with the help from so many forums at this site, as well as youtube videos. I had a few errors and it was evident from all the wood thrown throughout the yard at the time. (Just kidding) My biggest challenge was the lids. They were to large to crosscut on any tools I had, so I elected to use a circular saw with a straight edge as a guide. (Some how I measured wrong and was 3/4" short on all the pieces, and had to attach another board with biscuits, then rip them to the correct size.) My latest problem is attaching the hinges. I ordered hinges online, but the screws are cheap aluminum and twist off at the head half way into the wood. Yes I pre-drilled pilot holes! So I had accept what little Lowes had for an alternative since it's crunch time. Thankfully, that's all that's left to do.

Attached are 4 pics, (No lids are attached, and one is removed to see the inside.) Once these are on, I just have to wait for Santa to show. Thanks again.


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)




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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

sorry. sent one twice.


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## casual1carpenter (Aug 16, 2011)

msparky14,

I think they turned out very nice, you should have happy kids for Christmas.

I noticed triangular corners inside, what about 5" down, is there a removable tray in the making?

Depending on ages of kids, grand kids, did you consider a strut to dampen closure speed and/or full opening angle?

Did you know that one is a bit different? LOL BTW, nice save on the 3/4" add on, don't tell them they will never know you did not plan it that way.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

These did come out very nice. I've got 2 to build for my daughter. I'm going to do panels as well, but flat panels from 1/4" oak plywood. I'm also not doing the curved panels. It looks like you did one that way as well? (non curved panels)

A little trick when driving cheap screws. Pilot like you normally would, then drive a sheetrock screw first. Try to get a sheetrock screw close to the size, but it not to important, just don't drive it quite as deep as your real screw. You should be able to drive the cheapy after that.


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

Casual 1,
One of them is different?! LOL. Each of my boys has his own color choice and style it seems. (I just need to remember which one actually fits the right kids personality.) I hope they are happy with them. Guess I'll know if I see it in their fireplace in the near future. 
Those triangles are actually a dual purpose. Since the project is only glued together mainly, (Rails and stiles are glued while the panels float freely, and the corners that are splined are also only glued.) I made a few corner brackets "triangles" to ensure they hold everything together. (The triangles are glued and screwed in, and are the only visible screws on the entire project.) I also used screws on the cleats under the base for added durability at keeping everything tied together. But these triangles are also level for a couple rails that will support a removable tray. The tray may have to wait til after Christmas, but it'll happen. (Hunting will take priority) Planning on just a square tray about 3" deep, so it can slide from one side to the other if needed.
I'm set with a couple lid supports each to help protect those big fingers as well as the ittle ones.

Don W
I've been asked to make a couple toy boxes and didn't have an idea yet on what style. I like that flat panel idea, and will probably try a 1/4" plywood too. Should be cheaper and easier to make. 
Those hinges only had #5 screws that are 1/2" long. I've got some good (Wrong color) screws close to that size. I'll give that technique a try when I get home today. Thanks for the tip!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Toy Box? I just finished up one the other day:









Panels are just 1/4" oak plywood, the rest is old oak rafters(resawn to 3/4"), bottom is also a 1/4" plywood. All the plywood parts came from a single piece of plywood, "store-bought" 24" wide, by 48" long.
















Top was just five boards glued up into a panel


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'm doing pretty much the same. It looks great!


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I dont use the bracing under the lid unless I am trying to create an effect like I did with the firewood box in my gallery. I do try to glue the boards together with opposing grain however (at the ends) to reduce warping.


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## msparky14 (Dec 6, 2011)

Thank you all! I can't thank you enough for all the help. The projects turned out great, and I certainly couldn't have gotten as good of a result without all the expert advice I was able to use throughout this process.

I can't wait to start on the next project, or 2.


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