# Scotch Brite Pads for sanding between coats?



## noone

I've been going through a lot of sandpaper lately and was wondering if I can/should use Scotch Brite pads in between top coats of paint/lacquer/cv.

Is this standard practice or is 320 sandpaper the norm?

This is what I have been doing for painted projects-

150 sand bare wood
prime with BIN
220 sand
1st topcoat
320 light sand
2nd topcoat


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## rrww

I use the foam backed pads with a little block of wood.

The problems I had with the scotch brite and other pads with no backing is that the pad wants to "float" over some nibs instead of cutting them. I get a smoother finish with the backed pads.

If I don't have any pads I use P400 sandpaper.

Good Luck!


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## ClintSearl

I don't waste my time with shellac since any resin based top coat will serve as its own primer/base coat.

Get rid of any nibs after the first coat with 220 drywall sanding screen and/or maroon scotchbrite.

Add subsequent coats without intermediate sanding to the desired build.

Rub out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax.


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## noone

Well, I have been using water borne topcoats. GF White Poly and SW Pro Classic.


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## mtenterprises

I have always used 0000 steel wool but that was the old way I was taught.
MIKE


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## NiteWalker

I use 320 between coats.
Sandpaper for hand sanding lasts surprisingly long.


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## Dusty56

Use caution on open grained, light colored woods if you're using a clear finish. 
I've had poor luck with steel wool and also the gray Scotch-Brite pads as they tend to fill in the pores with dark matter that won't come out unless you sand below the finish and start over again.


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## AlanBienlein

This is all I ever use now for sanding between coats when finishing. They last forever and give a baby smooth finish.


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## noone

Thanks. The sponges I had been using wore out quickly (3M) so I had switched up to sandpaper/sanding block setups for cost.

I'll have to try these pro sponges.


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## Planeman40

I gave up on sanding between coats years ago.

I apply two or three initial coats of varnish, shellac, or paint to build up a decent base, then use a single-edge razor blade to scrape the dried paint/varnish surface. The object is to scrape until there is no gloss. If there are still depressions or deep scratches, paint on more coats, let dry, and scrape again. The object is to scrape away the high areas and fill in low areas with more coats of paint/varnish. When all is well, lightly wet sand with 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper (the black stuff) and finish with automotive rubbing compound. You will have a glass smooth high gloss finish. Shellac works especially well doing this. Also, the razor blade doesn't clog up like sand paper. Buy single edge razor blades in boxes of 100 for about $3 to $5 per box. You will also be surprised how quick this can be. I have refinished large cabinets this way as well as small items.

Planeman


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## noone

Interesting, Planeman.

I didn't know you could rub out paint.

How would you achieve a semi-gloss finish?


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## Dark_Lightning

Single-edge blades as scrapers? Who'd've thunk it? Do you have issues with the corners of the blades?

I've rubbed out (automotive) paint on pinewood derby cars to a high luster. It is possible to have a less glossy finish just by controlling the grit, i.e., rubbing compound as opposed to polishing compound.

I've also wet-sanded painted wood to make it smooth. You just have to go easy on it.


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