# Craftsman 10" 3HP Table Saw - Model 113-298761 - Is it a good buy?



## MikeDVB

Hello!

I hadn't yet purchased a table saw and I tend to be on Amazon so I ordered a "DWE7491RS 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw". [ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2CGXGG ] I haven't even actually gotten it out of the box yet as I'm waiting on my electrician to run the wiring I need in my shop.

This is my first table saw - I've always used a circular saw with less than satisfactory results as I've always just done it by hand [never anything important].

I have come across a used Craftsman 10" 3HP Table saw that is belt driven. It has the miter gauge [I have an incra though], the rip fence, and cast iron table extensions as well as the manual and rolling stand. They want just over $200 for it but I do not know enough about table saws to know if it's a good saw or not.

What I really want is something to perform precision cuts on various hardwoods without worrying about it not being able to keep up or burning the wood. My space is fairly limited so it being on wheels would be a huge benefit as most I've seen used do not have mobile bases [although that's 'fixable'].

I would love to have a nice big 3hp+ cabinet saw but I just don't have the space for it.

It looks to be in good shape.

Here are some images:


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## firefighterontheside

That's a good saw that a lot of people use. That one looks clean. A friend of mine bought one in a little worse shape for $75 a few months ago. I would offer around $125 and see what happens. It says 3 hp, but the motor is probably 1 1/2 or less. It would be really good with a fence upgrade.


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## MikeDVB

Ah interesting. I was trying to find out what year it was manufactured and if it's a decent deal for the price.

I don't mind holding onto the Dewalt as it should meet my needs for the foreseeable future but if I can find something used for cheaper that will do the job well or better before I unbox the Dewalt I'll jump on it.


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## BorkBob

Hi Mike,

I've had 4 of these saws over the years, new and used, and all of them cut wood just fine. Where the saw falls short is the fence. It will work but not as handily or accurately as an after market fence.

Compared to the DeWalt you referenced, it will be quieter and have a larger table. It may also allow use of a wider dado stack than the DeWalt.

IMO, $200 is too much. The last one I bought I paid $150.


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## MikeDVB

For the time being I plan on using my router table for any dado work so that's not a major concern for me right now especially since I also do not have any dado blades and the wife isn't going to 'approve' any more tools that are 'not strictly necessary for the task at hand' this month - haha.

I guess I need to come up with a short list of used saws to keep my eyes out for. Ideally something that I repair rather than replace down the road.


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## MrUnix

Pay no attention to what it says on the front, it is NOT a 3hp saw! It's maybe a 1 - 1.5Hp and the 3HP is considered "max developed" which is completely meaningless. I see those saws on CL frequently in the $50-$150 range. It is a step up from that Dewalt though. That Dewalt has one of those universal screamer motors with a plastic housing. It will warp and deform with any kind of continued use, and houses the rear motor bearing… so when that happens, your motor is toast and cannot really be fixed, just replaced. So pretty much any saw with a real belt driven induction motor is a step up IMHO.

Cheers,
Brad


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## MikeDVB

I spent about $500 on the DeWalt. I am open to other options in the $200-800 range as I can still return the Dewalt at this point if I wanted as it's unopened.

I'm not in a hurry and I do have access to a belt driven table saw at my father-in-laws but it's not easy to move and I don't cherish the idea of taking my wood there to cut and bring back.

I'm open to used tools in good shape and/or that are easy to get back into shape/work on and I'm not against new stuff either so long as it's built to last.

All of the reviews of the Dewalt I read have been positive - no mentions of longevity issues but then again nobody I've talked to described its motor in that fashion either.


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## knotscott

It's in nice shape, has the webbed cast iron fence, and the twin capacitor motor. The other guys are correct….the fence is weak, and the motor plate will say 1.5hp which is the true continuous duty hp rating. Sears and Emerson parted ways in 1997, so it was made before that….likely in the mid 80s. The blade guard assembly is missing, and that doesn't look like the original miter gauge. $200 isn't terrible, but I'd try to do a tad better if possible….mention the blade guard as a bartering point….it'll cost ~ $35-$75 to replace it.

There sure is a lot more operating room in front of the blade on the Cman. It's also a lot quieter, more stable, should have more torque, and is easier to upgrade down the road. You can't really add too much to the DW.


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## MikeDVB

The only mention I can find on the DeWalt is that it's a 15 Amp motor - no mention of HP on the site/description that I can find.

The guy selling the Craftsman responded and I can come look at it in person whenever I want.

I'm trying to figure out what this saw is capable of in terms of power. I'm thinking 1.5HP would probably struggle with a wider dado set in a harder wood no? I plan to use my router but it is a good basis for comparison of power I think no?

A missing blade-guard is a big one for me just from the standpoint that I'm new to all of this and I want to have the safety systems in place until there is need to remove them for a task. It may be more cumbersome but I'm not running a professional shop here .


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## firefighterontheside

I'd go for the craftsman. If you paid $500 for the Dewalt, you can get the craftsman, a new fence system and maybe accessories for the same money and have a heck of a lot more capabilities. I have a newer grizzly with 1.5 hp. It has never struggled with my dado stack. I wouldn't worry about that.


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## MikeDVB

That is what I was thinking - even at $200 it's still substantially cheaper than the DeWalt was leaving me some $$$ to improve it's deficiencies.

I am open to suggestions on an upgraded fence as well as well as advice on any other upgrades that could be done/upgraded accessories. I do have an Incra Miter 1000HD and planned on building a crosscut and mitering sled as well.

I am going to look at the saw tomorrow in person at around noon and will have the truck and a friend with me so I can get it home tomorrow if all goes well [assuming it's not raining]. It is supposed to rain all day so more than likely I won't be able to get it home for a few days.

I am also open to advice as to what I should look at / check for on a used table saw. Being that I'm not real familiar with them I wouldn't know what to look for as far as the unit being in good shape beyond it simply appearing to be in good shape.


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## knotscott

> The only mention I can find on the DeWalt is that it s a 15 Amp motor - no mention of HP on the site/description that I can find.
> 
> The guy selling the Craftsman responded and I can come look at it in person whenever I want.
> 
> I m trying to figure out what this saw is capable of in terms of power. I m thinking 1.5HP would probably struggle with a wider dado set in a harder wood no?
> 
> - MikeDVB


The Cman should spin a decent stacked dado set fine. I'll reiterate that the Cman will have more torque. HP specs don't tell the whole story. The DW relies on RPM for it's cutting power, so will likely bog more easily. The perception of power is very dependent on setup and blade selection, but the induction motor should have the upper hand for this type of application.

If you're new to this, that extra space in front of the blade can be a Godsend for getting the wood settled before starting the cut….it's the type of thing that most people wouldn't anticipate, until being exposed to the extra landing space. Same is true of mass…a lightweight saw is more likely to move when pushed on… and that can be scary. I will say that the fence on the DW is probably better, but the Cman fence can be upgraded….much harder to do with a portable saw. Try fixing a saw with a universal motor….it's often not cost effective. In almost all cases, unless you need the portability of a portable saw, a full size saw with belt drive induction motor has the lion's share of advantages. The Cman is essentially the same base saw as the earlier Ridgid contractor saws, but with an older fence.

Some more reading to help you understand the differences in the saws:
*The ABCs of Table Saws*


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## firefighterontheside

I can recommend the fence I have which is the shop fox aluma Classic. I love it. There are more expensive ones out there that may be better. Occasionally I have seen fences on CL, but not too often.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Aluma-Classic-Fence-Standard/W1716


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## MikeDVB

Buying a fence new is not a problem - so long as it fits the table and works well. I think the two most important parts for me are:
1. That it be straight and parallel to the blade.
2. That it be easily adjusted and easily calibrated [if necessary].

Being that I'm saving over $300 by my math going with the CMan even if I give them asking price - that leaves me room for a great fence/other upgrades. I can exceed the $300 although I wouldn't want/be able to do it this month.

That said - I could make do with a crappy fence for a few weeks if I had to.


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## DIYaholic

I purchased a C'man 113 TS, WITH mobile base & an aftermarket Vega Utility fence, for $125.00!!!
I wouldn't offer more than $150.00….


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## MikeDVB

I planned on reading the seller in person and seeing what I felt I could offer that they would accept. I'm already going to make a point of there not being a blade guard. I don't know how much of an argument I could make about the fence - I could say the fence it comes with is crappy and I'd be replacing it but that's more of my problem than theirs.


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## DIYaholic

The other thing to find out, from the seller….
Has there been any other interest or serious inquiries?
Why is he selling? moving, upgrading….


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## MikeDVB

I messaged the seller within about 2 hours of them listing it for sale online - so there hasn't been a lot of time for other interest.


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## hotbyte

Looks just like my saw which was bought new around 1988. I put a Delta T2 fence on a few years back and it is much better.


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## MikeDVB

I'm thinking some sort of Beisemeyer fence would be good. Are there good/bad ones?

Also what are my limitations generally going to be with a Craftsman saw like this?


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## DIYaholic

Older saws do not have a riving knife.
However, a splitter is part of the blade guard assembly.
There are aftermarket/retrofit riving knives for some saws, but not C'man contractor saws.


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## MikeDVB

Yeah without the blade guard or a riving knife kickback is more likely. No riving knife option is depressing though. If only I had a little more funds. I wish I had the room for a cabinet saw or the funds for a good hybrid.


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## hotbyte

I made zero clearance insert with glued in splitter in it similar to the Micro Jig splitter. The blade guard splitter is very thin although it does have anti-kickback pawls. Keeping it lined up was always a hassle so I removed and did the ZCI with "integrated" splitter. I'll probably pick up a MJ Splitter for next ZCI.


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## MikeDVB

"MJ Splitter"? I'm not sure what that means.

I'm not really any good at metal fabrication so building my own knife is possible but I dont know where I would start.

I've been looking and the SawStop tables look nice but are very expensive. I guess less costly than a missing finger though…

Not really sure who else to look at.


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## hotbyte

Here's info on the Micro Jig Splitter

I made a zero clearance insert and cut/planed/sanded a small piece of wood the width of saw kerf and glue it into insert. This is a PDF document so not sure if it will link or not…Wood Smith ZCI

Also, the Delta T2 fence is a fairly inexpensive Bies style that many have adapted to the C'man 113 saws.


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## MikeDVB

The MJ splitter does look nice. So what I would do is make a ZCI for each blade setup and I could then use a single set of MJ splitters interchangeably across my ZCIs?


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## MikeDVB

No mitering with the ZCI/splitter though.

Hmmm.


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## MikeDVB

I am thinking if I can pick it up for $150 assuming it's in as good shape as it looks it will be a good beginner saw for me. I can upgrade the fence and it should work well for me.

Not having the blade guard is fairly dangerous especially for a newbie like me but, that said, not having a riving knife as well is another consideration.

The plan so far is to do my best to stand out of the way of the work piece as best I can and to make sure there is nothing important where the saw would kick back as well as never reaching beyond the blade with the blade in motion as not to get pulled into the blade in a kickback.

I imagine table saws without riving knives were used for years before they were common - how was kickback and the like avoided then? I assume a splitter for ripping, a sled for cross cutting… I'm not sure about mitering though.

I do have a miter saw but I've found it a bit difficult to be accurate with often having to cut and move cut and move the piece to get it where I wanted it. I'd really rather use my incra miter gauge and/or the 45 degree tilt of the table when applicable.

If I put the saw to good use over the next few months and can justify the cost of a cabinet saw to the wife I think she'll authorize a SawStop from the standpoint that I do want to teach my children woodworking down the road and the SawStop is going to be substantially safer for them.

I believe I can trust myself to act safely and accordingly but children are a different story and that extra safety net will be huge.


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## firefighterontheside

You should be able to come up with a blade guard with splitter to put on that saw for any thru cuts. I've had my grizzly saw for 8 years with no riving knife and I've never installed the guard. You can be safe. You have to be focused. I have maybe had one kickback. I've had a few small pieces be thrown at the wall. Use push sticks, blocks and maybe the grrripper. Take your time.


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## MikeDVB

My father in law just messaged me after talking with the wife. He has a contractor saw of some type (it's heavy I've helped move it). Forget who makes it though … Maybe Jet?

It does have an induction motor with a drive belt. I think it's about 10 years old.

He said he could drop it off so long as he can come use it if he needs it he has no issues leaving it here.

I imagine that will get me through until I can afford a cabinet saw. I'm still going to look at the craftsman because I'll already be in the area. The craftsman has a larger table I believe as it has the wings added.


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## knotscott

See if you can get some more info on the FIL's mystery saw….pic would be great.


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## rwe2156

I'm confused. If you have already bought a saw, why are you looking at another one?

Anyway, I passing on the Craftsman is wise. Even if you could get if for nothing, the fence is inferior and putting any money at all in a decent fence system is a $4-500 investment and certainly money foolishly spent.

Like one poster said, no matter whats on that label, you will eventually find out the saw is underpowered. There are no 3HP saws that run on 110 so thats a dead give away.

I started out with one. I remember having to check the fence alignment every time I moved it. When I finally was able to get a cabinet saw with a real 3HP motor, then I realized just how far short these saws fall.


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## knotscott

> Im thinking some sort of Beisemeyer fence would be good. Are there good/bad ones?...
> - MikeDVB


How good something is can be subjective, but it's worth noting that some are clones of the Biese Commercial fence, and some are scaled down lighter duty fences with smaller dimensional tubing and lighter gauge steel or even aluminum. The Biesemeyer Commercial, Shop Fox Classic, HTC930, PM Accufence, Jet Xacta II, Saw Stop T-Glide, General T-fence, Steel City Industrial are among the beefier group of industrial t-square designs that are often found stock an a full industrial cabinet saw….all pretty similar, and many can even share the same rails.

Then there are lighter duty versions like the Jet Proshop, Saw Stop Premier, Laguna Fusion, Steel City, Shop Fox Alumarip Classic, Delta T2/T3, etc., that are more frequently found stock on a hybrid saw or lighter duty cabinet saw.

Both groups can be functional, and there are certainly stronger and weaker contenders in each group. The commercial duty group is nearly entirely comprised of heavier gauge larger dimensioned steel that's welded. The lighter duty group has several that are smaller welded steel, but also some that are bolted to the t-square head vs welded, and/or some that use aluminum tubing vs steel. You're also more likely to find a two-piece rail system in the lighter duty group. Again, any can be functional, but steel is stronger than aluminum, welded is stronger than bolted, one-piece is better than two-piece, and heavier gauge is stronger than lighter gauge…..it's worth noting and making an informed decision about.

Note the width of the fence tube and the rail on the Shop Fox Classic or PM Accufence:
















Compare that to the same components of the SS "Premier" fence or Laguna Fusion fence or Delta T2 fence:


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## MikeDVB

> See if you can get some more info on the FIL s mystery saw….pic would be great.
> 
> - knotscott


I'll get a picture of it when I get over that way today.



> I m confused. If you have already bought a saw, why are you looking at another one?


Because I want something quality that will last and do a good job and I've learned since purchasing that saw before unboxing and during the return period that there are better saws for less if I'm a bit more patient.



> Anyway, I passing on the Craftsman is wise. Even if you could get if for nothing, the fence is inferior and putting any money at all in a decent fence system is a $4-500 investment and certainly money foolishly spent.


The plan was that if I got rid of the CMan and I did have a new fence on it I would try to get some of the fence money back out or I would just put the junky fence back on it and put the nice fence on my FIL's saw or otherwise sell/give it away.

I am thinking I may just stick with the table saw my FIL has for 2 or 3 months and pick up a SawStop with the mobile base. The wife said I can leave one of the cars out of the garage to give myself room for a larger saw if it comes down to it.

I'm thinking the professional would be fine - is the 'industrial' cabinet and 'professional' hybrid or are they two different sizes of cabinets?



> Like one poster said, no matter whats on that label, you will eventually find out the saw is underpowered. There are no 3HP saws that run on 110 so thats a dead give away.


It is my understanding that you can get somewhere between 1.0hp out of 13 amps or about 1.5HP out of 13.9 amps depending on efficiency. Perhaps motors have gotten more efficient since then and I guess I should have known better that it couldn't be 3HP.



> I started out with one. I remember having to check the fence alignment every time I moved it. When I finally was able to get a cabinet saw with a real 3HP motor, then I realized just how far short these saws fall.


At this point the goal is to get a cabinet saw - I just don't have the $$$ right now to drop on one and see no used ones for sale within a decent driving distance.

I don't need new - I just need reliable and precision.


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## MikeDVB

Didn't get a chance to snap a picture [phone was dead] but I did get a look at the saw. It should do the job for a few months until I can either get lucky and find a good saw used or I can save up for a new one.

When it comes to used quality saws - what should I keep my eyes open for? I don't have 3 phase power and would prefer not to have to get a phase converter. I can do 220v - but I'm no electrician.


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## knotscott

> ...When it comes to used quality saws - what should I keep my eyes open for? I don t have 3 phase power and would prefer not to have to get a phase converter. I can do 220v - but I m no electrician.
> 
> - MikeDVB


I'd stick with the full size stationary saws with a belt drive induction motor. A true 3hp industrial cabinet saw that's in decent shape and has a decent fence would be great, but a good contractor saw or hybrid saw can also give good service. If the fence happens to be lame, but the price is right, it might be feasible to do a fence upgrade…just be sure there's room in the price for that. Measure the main table from front to back….27" means standard depth, so things like aftermarket fences and wings from other saws should fit. Ribbed aluminum tops are often an indication of a direct drive universal motor. I can't advise on 3-phase….that's something I've avoided so far. Names like Delta, Jet, PM, Grizzly, Shop Fox, General, Ridgid, Rockwell, Craftsman, Steel City, Laguna, Baleigh, Rikon, Bridgewood, and Woodtek are usually decent bets, but there are others like Omega, Ohio Forge, AFF, Mao Shan, some newer full size Hitachi or Porter Cable, and some DW that could be viable saws too. Older names like Atlas, Wadkins, and Boice Crane are old timey for sure…out of my wheel house, but certainly could be good saws too.

In general, condition is a decent indicator of how the saw was treated. You want to feel good about it. It's a good sign if it's been well cared for and is complete. Check for obvious damage. Check underneath with a flashlight for less obvious damage….look for cracks or breaks in major cast structures, be sure the gears aren't gauled badly, or pieces bent. It's nice if the parts that are supposed to move actually do move easily, but most can be cleaned and lubed to free things up, so don't fret it unless something is frozen. Bring a straight edge and check the main part of the table for general flatness…. I don't get too anal about that unless there's a significant crown or dip that would make the work piece rock, giving a bad cut. Wings that aren't perfectly level or flush can generally be shimmed and coaxed to be where they're supposed to be. Check that the miter slots are straight and parallel with each other. Check that the blade is aligned parallel with the miter slots, and isn't off by a lot. Signs of being run hard and put away wet are never good, but it's more of a concern with a lighter duty saw than something like an old Unisaw or PM66….that should be a price consideration.

Run the saw. It should run smoothly with little to no vibration. It's fine to make a cut, but the end result is more of a reflection of blade and setup than the saw itself, so don't read much into it. Be sure the arbor spins true and doesn't make squealing or grinding noise….noise often means a bearing replacement will be needed, and should be reflected into the price. It's best if inserts, blade guard, and original miter gauge are present….if not, negotiate if the price is high. Negotiate over condition too. A slew of extra junk blades and worn out ZCI's are next week's trash, so don't pay extra for it.


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## WhoMe

This post is great timing. I'm getting ready to sell my 113 saw just like the OP. But mine already has a delta t2 fence, link belt, a Rockler paddle switch and an outfeed table over the motor. I'm debating on if I'll include the mobile base. But I was not sure how to price it. This gives me a good idea.


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## patcollins

For what it is worth I paid $110 for the same saw and it had the splitter/blade guard etc.

The fence is completely workable if you have any mechanical inclination at all. After taking mine apart, cleaning it, ensuring it is straight it locks down tightly and doesn't move. It's biggest downfall is that it doesn't move as smooth so it doesn't feel as nice moving it.

People on here tend to be a bit critical of things that aren't top of the line.

The motor on the saw alone can sell for $100 used, and if you spent about $250 on the Delta T-2 fence you can actually sell the stock fence on eBay for about $50 so even at $200 it is a decent buy.


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## MrUnix

I've had three of those saws over the years.. Most I ever paid was $60 (and it included a TON of extra goodies) and one I got for $15 at a garage sale. All were fine machines and worked perfectly (after a little cleaning and adjustments). But there are so many of them out there, they are pretty easy to find really, really cheap… you just have to wait for them to show up (and they always do!).

Cheers,
Brad


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## MikeDVB

I passed on the Cman. I couldn't get to the model label on the FIL's saw but I got the motor placard. He is digging it out of storage for me.


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## knotscott

That should equate to a full size traditional Jet contractor saw. Right tilt, from ~ 2000 or newer. It could have the original Jet fence, the Micro Glide fence, or the Xacta. Could have steel or cast wings. Possibly a 708308k, 708471, 708300k or similar. That should make for a decent saw with good setup and a good blade.


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## MikeDVB

That looks like it except it does most definitely have the steel wings [I remember the steel].

Would it be worth getting a set of cast wings for it? It'll essentially be my saw as my FIL only uses it once in a great while and it's usually in storage so he said I can just keep it here so long as he can come make use of it.'

I do see the motor says 115/230V. I will have both in my shop - any particular reason to do one or the other? I know it has a standard 3 prong on it so I am not sure.


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## DIYaholic

I'm converting all my dual voltage machines to 230V….
As I'm already maxing out the few 110V circuits in my shop.


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## MikeDVB

The thing is - the electrician is coming out on Monday to run all of my wiring. I have a 200 amp service and something like 100 amps of that is completely un-used [only about 100 amps of total breakers in there now].

I will have about the space of a one car garage - I can expand out to two temporarily but not permanently. I have been trying to work out how many outlets and of what type.

I figured at least two 230V and 4 or 5 20A. I will also be having outlets put in the ceiling for overhead lighting and a switch mouted. I'm also thinking I'd like a security lockout switch in the circuits if possible so that the kids cannot fire them up unsupervised.


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## MikeDVB

What are the benefits to converting to 230 and do you just need a new cord or a new cord and switch too?


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## MrUnix

The motor will run the same regardless of voltage.. and to switch to 230v, you will need to re-wire your motor and change the plug on the end of the power cord. If you will have some 20A circuits, I'd leave it alone.

Cheers,
Brad


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## DIYaholic

1) The wiring in the motor needs to be changed (re-routed), diagram usually on motor plate (somewhere). Generally easy peasy!
2) Replace the plug with appropriate 230V plug…. 15A, 20A or 30A (manual will specify proper amp plug.) easy peasy!

The cord does not need to be replaced, unless you wish to lengthen it a short amount (like maybe 2' - 3' longer). If you wish to make a really long cord, depending upon length, you may need to upgrade to a larger gauge. The switch may or may not need to be replaced. OEM switch should not need replacing. An aftermarket switch may need to be replaced. The switch must be rated for 230V and the appropriate amps.


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## knotscott

If you have 220v readily available, I'd make the change. There's very little to lose, and some possible benefits. It should just require rewiring the motor junction box according to the schematic, and a new plug on the cord to fit your 220v outlet. In theory, the motor coils get the same voltage regardless, but 220v is far less likely to be running anywhere near it's max rated capacity, so is less likely to suffer from voltage drop during those temporary voltage peaks at startup and recovery from heavy load. Every circuit is a little different, and every motor interacts a bit differently….it's far more common to find a 110v circuit that's being shared, and/or is a bit overtaxed at peak moments than it is to find the same conditions plaguing a 220v line. In the past, I've switched two of my saws from 110v to 220v….I noticed a little improvement on one, and a notable improvement on the other….mainly faster startups and faster recover after bogging, which can give the impression of feeling more powerful.

Cast iron wings are a very "nice to have" feature, but not essential. IMO, it's more important to have a good fence, but both are desirable features. Keep your eyes peeled for a good deal on wings…some may require drilling, but any 27" wings can be made to fit. Do you recall which fence is on it?


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## MikeDVB

From memory it looks like the one in that picture. I'm ok it it's not perfect so long as I can adjust for it. I did tell the FIL I may upgrade the fence.


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## MikeDVB

I planned on all shop outlets being at least 20a and at least 2 of them dedicated circuits.


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## TimberMagic

I have an old Craftsman radial arm saw, and I did switch it to 240VAC. But not because I thought I'd get better power. The RAS motor just required two jumpers to be moved (plus a plug change, of course.). It was quite simple. I only did this because the motor hesitated when started on 120VAC. In fact, Sears came to my house during the warranty period, and replaced the first motor. It would periodically stall during startup. I do not recall if the service tech suggested the change, but the motor jumped to life after the change to 240VAC (I did this after he had replaced the motor, I just did not want to have similar issues with the new motor). It could have been a design flaw in the motor, or a bad motor, I just don't know.

As another poster mentioned, you do not get any additional power benefit by moving from 120 to 240. Any motor is rated at "X" HP, or better yet,"Y" watts. (Some horsepower claims are pretty dubious, particualrly shop vacs!) So doubling the voltage just means halving the current draw (voltage X current = watts, and "watts is watts").

I have a Powermatic bandsaw and it also employs a dual voltage motor. I left it at 120VAC, seeing no benefit to switching it over-it runs fine on 120VAC. that and its built in task light is on the same cord, and I've been too lazy to think about rewiring the lamp into a separate cord, or go find some 240 VAC bulbs for it).


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## patcollins

Wiring up the motor for 230V will cut your I^2R losses since the amperage draw will be halved any resistance losses in your extension cord etc will be cut by a factor of four.


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## MikeDVB

While I have the electrician here I may go ahead and ask him to do the wiring on the motor for me. At least that way if something gets messed up their insurance will cover it.


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## MikeDVB

The saw's top needs a little TLC - looks like the garage at the FIL's is a bit more humid than he thought [just moved there last year].

I'm going to clean it up and it should work fine for me.

The fence is one of the single-point ones where it locks down in the front and then the back may or may not be parallel to the blade so I'll likely be picking up a ShopFox AlumaClassic or something like that if I can't stand this one.

The one on it now looks like I can loosen some bolts to get it back to parallel with the blade.

The goal is to save $$$ towards a nice cabinet saw so if I can get by with the fence the Jet has on it now I'll just save that fence money towards a nicer saw.


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## firefighterontheside

Thats how the shop fox aluma Classic worksnd its clones work. They are a T square design where the T is very strong. My old craftsman job site saw had the one that clamped at front and back and was never square. It may be a decent fence once you have it adjusted parallel to the blade.
I have the shop fox aluma Classic and I find it to be very stout. I regularly cut large pieces of ply wood and I have never notice any appreciable deflection.


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## MikeDVB

When I lock this one down I can't get it to deflect easily - it does seem to lock down good and solid.

I will try adjusting it and if I can get it parallel [should be able to] I should be able to make due until I get a cabinet saw.


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## MrUnix

AFAIK, there are no 'single point' fences.. and physically, I don't think that would even be possible 

And I've never seen a fence that wasn't adjustable in one way or another to bring it into parallel with the miter slot (which in turn must be in parallel with the blade). Even the 2×4 fences I've used long ago could be adjusted by loosening up one or both C-clamps holding it to the table!

Your fence should be fine.. just get your miter slots parallel to the blade and then the fence parallel to them.

Cheers,
Brad


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## MikeDVB

Plan on getting the TS all aligned tomorrow sometime. The fence is definitely off but I'm not sure about the blade just yet as I've not checked it. I did just get done refinishing the cast top with some vinegar, steel wool, and then some renaissance wax. It looks almost as good as new now. A little more elbow grease on my part and it would look new but it's flat and smooth and wood slides easily so I can't complain.


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## sawdustjunkie

I had the same saw for over 20 years. I always ran it at 110v. Never needed to switch over to 220.
The saw is really only 1.5 hp and not 3hp. You really don't need to rewire it to 220.
The fence is junk. I bought a Muelcab fence and used it till I sold the saw last year. There are others out there that will serve you well and be very straight and true.


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## cavemancrafting

I would absolutely go with the crafstman. Just on the fact that you can upgrade just about everything on them still. I run serpentine belt on mine and barely hear it run. I would use the blade gaurd to lower the price but not necessary. I think they are more of a hinderance than anything. Plus you cannot run a zero clearence insety with one installed. I plan on upgrading my fence to a Delta here next month. I have my stock fence faced with melomine panel and seems to glide smooth. Biggest thing is parallel the blade to the mitre slots. Plenty of vids on YouTube teaching you how. Then parallel the fence to the blade. And for the love of all things holy use a sharp blade. I recommend Frued Diablo. Pricey but well worth it. Last about five times longer than any other as long as you dont go ramming nails and screws through it. Good luck.


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## CC68

when that saw was new it was sold for 700.00 i think it would be a nice saw to have . i have a cabinet saw i love that saw it is my second saw first one was a craftsman 1 horse looks like the one pictured


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## Woodbum

As was said, this is a 1.5hp saw, but still a good reliable "oldie but a goodie". I bought one new in 1986 and used it until 2009 when the original motor gave it up. Sears parts wanted over $200, and so that was the excuse I needed to get a new Grizzly 1023. My wife thought that I got my money's worth out of the C man since I paid $450 brand new, and encouraged me to buy the Griz. The fence was kind of lame, but overall, you will have a better and more versatile saw than any job site saw, especially when dollars to dollars are compared. I think +$200 is a little steep, but it is your choice to make as to negotiate or not. Check the motor to make sure it runs well, and look for arbor run out. I think that you can get several years of service out of this saw.
Good Luck, Work Safely and Have Fun!


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## Cholo

What us the measurement of the rip fence?
How long?


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