# Boxland: Work Stations and Boxing Tips



## Boxguy

*The Glue Up Table*

*The Glue Up Table*










In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up. 









This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.









Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.










Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.










My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.










An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.










Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.

In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


----------



## IndianJoe

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


Nice


----------



## GrandpaLen

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


Hey Al,

That's a Great, dedicated, assembly area. Are your clamps on a wall rack or Mobile rack?

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


Nice setup. Everything right at hand


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


One thing that see Big Al that you could use is wax paper by laying it down under your glue up's the glue no longer sticks to the table and the wax paper peels right off the box, it doesn't stick to anything.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


Blackie, good idea as always. You're probably right…wax paper would help, and I use it sometimes. What I usually do is just scrape the laminent with a wide, sharp putty knife and occasionally wash it down. I use foil on internal glue up inside boxes.


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## TheBoxWhisperer

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


Wow, great ideas box guy. Im glad Im reading your blogs before I re-arrange my shop.


----------



## Ken90712

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


I like it,,, Good read not sure how I missed this series. Well on to part 2 Thx


----------



## timbertailor

Boxguy said:


> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> *The Glue Up Table*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my shop the most important element in efficiency is organization. That means having what I need at hand when I need it. In the case of the glue up table it starts with a straight line that I can put the sides of the box against to line them up for glue-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a shop made holder for the tape dispenser. It allows me to have the tape already positioned over my work and it is easily removed from the holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue and brushes are essential. I keep my brushes in water and they don't clog up. I can use the same brush for months on end as long as I put it back in the water cup at the end of each use. Since I use the thicker Tightbond Trim and Molding glue it is essential to hold the bottle up-side down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paper towels are another must. I use them to clean up and dry off the brushes when I first take them out of the water. They are handy here on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My home made band clamps hang on a hook on the left. I can quickly reach them and put them back when I'm finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An air hose is useful for blowing away dust before finish is applied and for the pin nailer I use to hold parts in place until the glue dries. The small shelf also holds a scraper for cleaning dried glue off the table and a screwdriver for cleaning away glue squirt out. I set the timer (silver left) for an hour to let me know when the glue has set up enough for me to work on the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need a nice bright task light and if you are wondering about the piece with the bars welded across it that is a press for attaching tops. The other boards are culls for the press.
> 
> In later chapters I will show the actual process of gluing a box together and talk about the press.


I saw your assembly\glue up table some months ago when you commented on my glue up box.

So, I thought I would build a glue up\assembly table.

Here is my version. Thought I would share.


----------



## Boxguy

*Spline Making Jig*

*The Spline Cutting Jig*










I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…










A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.










Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.










Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.

This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.

Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


----------



## patron

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


this is a *BUENO JIG*

and very nice looking too


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Very kool Al. Thnx


----------



## gfadvm

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Nice jig. I too cut triangular splines on the bandsaw but your jig would save me a lot of time as I have to mark each spline and then cut along the lines. Thanks for posting this.


----------



## Philzoel

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Big Al. How do you cut the slot for your spline? Before you glue or after and what type of jig????

Thanks.


----------



## dustyal

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


well, don't have a band saw…. I've been using scroll saw and that is a bit sloppy. I could build this jig and hand feed it since scroll saw does not have a miter slot…

thanks for the ideas… keep 'em coming.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


any advice for the guy without a bandsaw or planer? or as I prefer to say, a tablesaw specialist? Ive been cutting little 1/2 X 1/2 X 1/8 squares on the tablesaw, making sure to protect my face very well and then sweeping up 50 or so splines off the floor…...a little ghetto, I know…..


----------



## Ken90712

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Nice job, I make my splines both on the table saw and band saw. A zero clearance throat plate on the table saw is critical. I really like this band saw jig I'll give this a try.


----------



## FrankSpillman

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


I agree totally about the band saw being best, but some people still don't have one. I was very successful cutting splines on my table saw using a cross cut sled and a jig similar to yours, also making sure the blade just cleared the top of the wood. Just an alternative for those without a bandsaw yet.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Frank, Thanks for the comment. I would use a simple miter box and a hand saw before I tried working on such small pieces with a table saw. Wear a face shield and best of luck.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Quick & perfect.


----------



## Jhopewell

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


One trick I learned about keys, if they are slightly too thick,
Hit them with a flat face hammer, just lightly. This squishes the wood fibers just enough to slit the oversized key in the slot


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Jonathan, I used to thickness my corner splines so they were a tight fit and pound them in as you suggest. What I concluded was that I was working too hard and there was no room for glue. I also found that the moisture of the glue was enough to swell some woods and made putting in the splines too hard.

Now I thickness (plane) my corner splines so the wooden strip I cut into splines just barely slides back and forth in the spline slots of the box. It gives me room for glue, lets me bottom out the splines in the slots, and the job goes much faster. It is important to press the splines in place and hold them there for about a second to give the glue in the slot time to work its way out and let the spline really touch the bottom of the slot.


----------



## ButchCassidy

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


Nice, I am just getting into Boxes and Pistol cases. I will steal this Great Idea (If OK) from you. Thanks for the Info.


----------



## robscastle

Boxguy said:


> *Spline Making Jig*
> 
> *The Spline Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to make all my splines. Basically it is set up to use the band saw to cut triangles out of a long thin strip of wood. It is just a board with a runner for the guide slot and another board fastened at a 45 degree angle. Cutting small pieces on a table or radial saw is a disaster. Your fingers wind up in wrong places and the small pieces fly all over the shop (not good). This is a job for the band saw! If it is done well the splines will look like this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word about fit: Once you have cut a strip of wood to approximate size let's say 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by 18 inches long, you fine-tune the fit with the planer so that this strip will easily, but barely slip back and forth in the spline slots you have cut in the box. If you make this fit too tight you will have to fight the work and pound the splines into place in the slot. A slip fit lets the splines and wood swell a little with the glue. A thin bit of glue will not show, but a spline that doesn't bottom out in the slot looks really bad when the box is finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since splines are often made from expensive and rare woods, I try not to waste any of it. Why make a square spline for a triangular slot? So as you see in the picture you use the jig to cut a 45 across the strip and then FLIP IT OVER and make your next cut forming a triangle. The width of your strip really determines the size of the triangular spline. If you need a smaller spline, make your strip more narrow. Don't try to cut smaller 45s it just doesn't work. I usually push the strip a little beyond the blade before making the second cut so I get a flat spot at the point of the triangle. I use the flattened point to push the splines in place. It is easier on my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any scrap will do when you are experimenting with a jig, but when I have perfected a jig I try to make a pretty one. It makes time in the shop more fun, and I can take pride in using it. This one is made from a scrap of bird's eye maple and eucalyptus veneer.
> 
> This jig works better if it is thicker and allows the triangles to fall when cut and then be pushed slightly out of the way by the jig after you have cut through the strip. Don't push too hard as you cut, let the blade do the work. Pushing makes the triangles fly and you want to keep the triangles on the table of the bandsaw. The rough edges of the bandsaw cuts don't matter. You will just trim off the excess sticking out beyond the box edges with the bandsaw or sander anyhow. I use the hole in the end to hang the jig on the saw between uses.
> 
> Later I'll show more about splines. Have fun, and keep boxing.


You know Big Al I went looking for a Spline for dummies type book, But I should have looked here first.

Thank You


----------



## Boxguy

*Cutting Spline Slots*

*Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*










*Want to add corner splines like this?*
,
,









*You need a jig like this!*
.
.
This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.










If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…










You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.

First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *

I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)

To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.










I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.










This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
.
.








.
This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.

For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.

*Conclusion:*

It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.

If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


----------



## Philzoel

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


VERY, VERY nice and simple jig. Clear and detailed. Thank you.

Is the miter slot and fence redundant? Can I just use fence? Is miter slot bar loose? and therefore you need fence.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


I do like the handle on the back and the larger base


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


@Phil

The runner in the slot is needed for the fence to push against. Without the runner the jig would wander across the table and not stay in place. The longer plane of the fence and jig help keep the back and forth motions exactly on track.


----------



## DocSavage45

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Looks well used. Which means it's a good tool. Like your solution for the fence rail.


----------



## DJPeck

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Thank you for sharing your wonderful art and methods.


----------



## dustyal

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Big Al, is there any reason you don't use a stop block to hold the box in position? i.e., keep the box against the block and do slot cut on on four corners. Then, move the stop to do the next slot on all four corners, then move stop again to do the third set?

Your method of using layout lines for dado location and the top of the box positioning is good… just thinking I would tend to clamp a stop block… so, just wondering out loud.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


*Dusty*, good question about a stop. I find that a pencilled line gives enough accuracy for my needs and is a fast easy way to work. I do use a V shaped stop clamped into the trough for small items like trays because they tend to wobble when I cut them on edge.

I find that wood workers tend to get obsessed with accuracy in a product that moves with every change in moisture. Building a box is not the same as building an engine. My motto for wood is, "If you can't see it with your eye it doesn't count." Don't misunderstand me. I work carefully, but my tolerance tends to run between a 32nd and a 16th.


----------



## BadDavid

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


The runner, it looks to be made out of a hard plastic. Is that true? And if so did you cut it out of a plastic cutting board?


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Very nice jig, would make a very nice upgrade to my little plywood one. I;ll try to make it pretty.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Big Al, how do you handle tear out?


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Randy, with most wood it is not a problem. Since there are fewer teeth on my dado blades, I slow the rate of feed a bit. It helps to have sharp blades. Some of my walnut has a real problem with tear out and I solve that by rounding over the corners of my boxes and just sanding the tear out away. I really prefer rounded corners anyway.

I think Andy's idea of tape would help. If it is a real concern, I would design my V trough with some extra width and have a half inch plywood backer board that I could replace and slide side to side for fresh use on the back side of the pass.


----------



## Ken90712

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Well done I sue the same technique when doing this.


----------



## Chad256

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Thanks for the great tutorial! I've been wanting to "teach myself" how to do splines….I'm sure this will help a lot!


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


*Bad Dave*, the runner is 3/4 inch HMD plastic that I bought at the Peachtree booth at the last Woodshow that I attended. I cut a strip lengthwise. HMD doesn't swell with moisture and is self-lubricating.


----------



## jakob

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Built a jig inspired by yours Big Al. Makes for some happy stress free spline cutting.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.313795328765061.1073741843.149784978499431&type=1


----------



## bannerpond1

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


Thanks for sharing. This is better than my jig for the same purpose.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting Spline Slots*
> 
> *Boxguy's Spline Slot Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Want to add corner splines like this?*
> ,
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need a jig like this!*
> .
> .
> This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long "trough" supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or small. The wide base lets me run the jig along the saw fence. Sliding the fence over so it is snug along the jig removes all the play in the slide and makes the jig extremely accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. Touching the box to the bottom board is important because it lets you set the height of your saw cut accurately using the base of the jig as a starting point for your cut. I can now set the slot depth using those long square brass spacer bars to raise my blade to the proper height by just sliding the jig forward and setting the bars on top of the jig base. (Hint: when you are making the jig. Affix the back side of the trough so it aligns with the back end of the jig, then just set a box into the trough to align and set up the front side so the box touches the jig base and then fasten the front trough board in place.) There are two important things to notice in the above picture. First, I have drawn a pencil line on the jig that aligns with and is as wide as the dado blade. Second, there is a strip of 2 inch masking tape running across the back side of the trough. More about these next…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the tape and the line on the outside top of the trough here. (The mark on the trough takes little looking, sorry.) Though I have posed this with a finished box, you can get the idea.
> 
> First, I mark where I want each spline cut to be made on the box blank itself with a pencil. (In this case I would have marked three 1/4 inch wide lines for the three splines.) Second, I align these penciled-in marks for the splines with the pencil marks on the trough that indicate where the blade will cut. Third, using the box itself as a ruler, I draw a line along the top of the box and across the masking tape. *This pencil line across the tape will now become my indicator for locating the box on the jig for each cut. *
> 
> I draw one line across the tape for each row of splines (in this case three marks) and put a number next to each line. (If you don't number the lines, I find it is too easy to lose track of where you are in the sequence and accidentally cut the same slot twice.)
> 
> To cut the slots I hold the box blank firmly in place with both hands, and use my body to shove the jig forward and over the dado blade. *Do not bring the box blank backwards through the blade.* Instead, after cutting the slot, lift or tilt the box blank up and above the blade then pull the jig back into place for the next cut. Making more than one pass through the dado blade will widen the slot slightly and you will not get a nice, tight fit on your finished spline. I cut all three slots in one corner then roll the box to the next corner and cut three more slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw. That is why I cut the hole-handle in the base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the back of the jig. Notice the maple stop at the top so you don't push the jig too far forward with your body as you make the pass over the blade. It also shows the runner that fits in the saw's miter slot.
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> This jig and careful work will let you produce corner splines in your boxes that fit like a glove.
> 
> For instructions about making the splines themselves click here.
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> It took me far longer to tell how to cut slots than it takes me to actually cut the slots in my boxes. With practice, blade height set up, locating the slots on the box blank, marking the lines on the masking tape, and actually cutting the slots with the dado blade only takes 5 to 10 minutes.
> 
> If you have questions or comments, just ask. Thanks for reading.


*Jacob,* thanks for the link on your Facebook page. Nice job on the jig. I can't tell for sure from the photos, but if you leave a bit of room at the bottom of your "trough" it will let the box touch the bottom board and make measuring the height of your dado blade more accurate and direct.


----------



## Boxguy

*Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*

*How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*










*You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*









.
.

*Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.

*Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.

*Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.

*The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
.
.
.

*Separating The Top:*










*Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.










*Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.










*Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.

.
.
.

*Making The Hinge:*
.
.










*Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.










*Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.










*Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.










*Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.










*Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.










*Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.










*Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.










*Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.

I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
.
.

*My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
.









Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.










Tools








Paint and New Hinges








Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder








Belt Grinder








Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


----------



## kenn

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


That's the way to keep production up, organization. You've got a great space there that you've worked all the bugs out of, thanks for sharing it with us.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Big Al,

You can't fault a complete and organized work bench.

While 'Hinge Station' clearly defines that location, the 'Beast' needs a nom de plume befitting it's total Glory.

I dub thee "THE CHOPSMITH". (you have my permission to use that, if you so choose) ;-)

You are proof that David Letterman and Tony Stuart aren't the only talent from Indiana my friend.

- Len - Nabb, In.


----------



## JoeyG

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


That's a great set up you have there Al, I wish I was able to stay that organized, but no matter how hard I try things still seem to get spread out.


----------



## jeepturner

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Nice well laid out blog, with every picture telling the story, and the supporting writing explaining it well. 
I think you have a keen sense of utility. Nice work station.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Luv the hinge station. Grt tool holders. Everything you need right at hand


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Nice set up, I never would have thought to cut piano hinges to length.


----------



## Ken90712

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Good idea on cutting the top off, man you are organized with all your little mini bins of supplies. Well done.


----------



## AuroraWoodworks

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


I'll give your method a try to cut the lid next time!


----------



## harum

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Impressive designs and textures! Thank you for sharing the techniques. I was wondering if you would have any tips on how to match the sides to the top for a gapless fit and how to minimize seasonal movement of the top relative to the sides. Again, greatly appreciate your blog tutorials. H.


----------



## DocSavage45

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Al,

Just checked out the hinge blog. I'm making a prototype box nd my customer/long time friend has certain features he'd like. One being a piano hing! Thought of you. Thanks for doing the hard work. Now I just have to remember this when I'm in the shop. LOL!


----------



## dannmarks

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


I love your work sir. There are so many that are awesome that there is no point in picking them out.


----------



## Trev76

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


Thanks for the information!


----------



## Klusy

Boxguy said:


> *Separating The Top and Cutting a Hinge to Fit*
> 
> *How do you make a hinge and fit it in a box so that it looks like this when you are done?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You Could Use This!*...*My Hinge Station or a Hack Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *Just Browsing?* If you want to casually breeze through this just read the *dark print* and look at the pictures. For more serious readers, I have included details in the fine print.
> 
> *Economics:* Price is a major consideration if you are making boxes for sale. I simply can't afford to put $35 or more into a set of fine brass hinges and make any money on the boxes I sell. I wish I could. So I choose to use piano hinges that have been cut from a 4 foot length so they fit the particular box that I am working on at the moment. I use 1 1/16 inch wide brass coated steel hinges and try to keep my side thicknesses at 5/8 of an inch. Steel plated piano hinges are my compromise between economy. appearance, and function.
> 
> *Reasoning: *Other than money why this choice? I am trying to make boxes that will still be in use 100 years from now. With modern glues and careful joinery, I may have a chance. Piano hinges are the most stable and strongest way I know to join the lid to the bottom of a box and allow it to swing open. Other styles of boxes lend themselves well to pin hinges and pivot hinges on the outside of the box, but I have not made many of that style of box.
> 
> *The Process In Pictures:* It may take some scrolling, but I have tried to have a picture for each step.
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Separating The Top:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Blade Height:* First use a scrap from the original board you started with to set your saw blade to slightly beyond the thickness of the side of your box. (If you lost the scrap you can set the blade by the edge showing on top or bottom, but it is more difficult to be accurate, especially if you rounded those edges as I have here.) Note the shop-made zero clearance insert…good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Set Your Fence:* Now set your fence to the proper position to cut your lid off. Always keep the lid to the left of your blade. Cut through the two long sides, but *lower your blade *so you don't quite cut through with the end cuts. Notice that I marked the back in chalk so I can be sure to put it back together properly after it is separated. With close grain patterns you often can't tell the front from the back until you apply a finish. *Remember!* For the two end cuts *lower the blade enough so it doesn't cut all the way through the box side.* This lowering keeps the blade from being pinched by the box. When the box pinches the saw blade a lot of bad things happen to the box and maybe to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finish Cutting the Ends:* Now cut the remaining sliver away in the two end cuts with a box cutter and separate the lid from the bottom.
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> *Making The Hinge:*
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size It:* The first step is to set your hinge on the box and determine how long it should be. Obviously you don't want it to end in the middle of a screw hole, but you do want it to be close to the inside edge of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Hinge:* I took an old metal-cutting band saw and made it into a tool specifically for this job, but you can cut it by hand using a hack saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Smoothing And Rounding:* I use a cheap ($35) one inch belt sander that I bought from Grizzly for this. But you can use any sander or even just do it by hand. Just remove the burrs and any saw marks. I round off the inside and outside corners so they won't be too sharp and cut customers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shorten The Pin: * Over time the hinge's pin would work loose and stick out as a sharp point. To prevent this I use a small punch to make the pin slide to one end. Shown here is a specialized tool. It is a magnet over a metal bar with a hole in it. The advantage of this is that I can use two hands to work and the magnet will hold the hinge for me. Obviously, you can do this just using something like a small nail to slide the pin to the hinge end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cut The Pin:* Pictured is cutting off the extended pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stuff The Pin Back In Place:* Using the pin punch, slide the pin back inside the knuckle of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crimp The Hinge Ends: * Using a ball peen hammer and a small anvil lightly tap the hinge ends to crimp them closed and prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle. You may need to resand the hinge if you have a burr or sharp end after peening the ends of the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting The Ends:* Since I use steel hinges, they would soon rust if they were not coated. I spray paint the ends to prevent this. Notice that everything you need to do this job is at one station. (See the holders for pliers and hammer?) Once I walk up to this station, I can make a hinge that will fit a box without taking a step. With practice and this station it takes about 10 minutes to size, cut, smooth, shorten the pin, crimp the knuckle, re-smooth, and paint the ends of a hinge. Now, how do you mortise and install these hinges in a box? Read the next chapter of this blog.* "How To Install a Hinge"* to find out.
> 
> I'll leave you with a few pictures of the hinge station itself. I finished building it this spring and it has seen hard use in a short time. This summer I'll make the final refinements and paint it to make it pretty.
> .
> .
> 
> *My Hinge Station* *(The Chop Smith)*
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is at hand. Even a trash can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint and New Hinges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pin punch, Anvil, Magnetic Hinge Holder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Belt Grinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified Metal Cutting Band Saw (It sports a 1/2 HP motor)


A nicely rendered blog, each picture tells a story, and supporting writing explains well.Great arrangement that you have.When I have more time, I have to read it all. Many interesting tips and preparations.


----------



## Boxguy

*Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *

*Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.

In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.










*Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.



















It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.










*Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.










*Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.

Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.










This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)










Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…










Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.










*The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.










*Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.










*Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.










*Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.










*Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.










*Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.










Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.










*Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees

*The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Excellent tutorial Al. The time spent, is well spent.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Very interesting. Nice "how-to" tutorial


----------



## DocSavage45

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


4 porter cable sanders? You are a dedicated "boxguy"! Not able to make anything right now, and I'm going to watch and learn for when I am ready. Have an idea for a different type of box for an srtist friend. All in my head right now , Have to store this as it makes it simple.

Thanks!


----------



## DocSavage45

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Oh yeah,

I've learned from watching dedicated guys like yourself that hinges are as important as the box. Not to promote anyone but do you have preferences?

Thanks


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Thanks for this write up Al and also leading me from single hinges to paino hinges.


----------



## itsmic

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Nice write up, good pics and clear explanation of the process, Great job, thanks for sharing


----------



## DJPeck

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Outstanding, again, my most sincere thanks.


----------



## bigike

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


I'm glad I found this post very helpfull thanks!


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


I'm off to the box store this morning to pick up the hinge and bits needed.


----------



## Tootles

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Thanks for this tutorial. Most helpful.

Do you have any tips for setting the depth of the hinge - if the thickness of the box side is greater than the width of the hinge?


----------



## BadDavid

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


So far, I have just dado the the tops to sit in place. With this write up I might try to put a hinge on the next one. Thank you.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


3/4 inch bit, 3/4 inch hinge, set the bit height to halfway up the pin you say?


----------



## Ken90712

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


I like it, and will be using this info for sure on my next box…Thx so much for taking the time to shoot me this link.

Never enough sanders… or any tools for that matter.


----------



## Gary

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


My method has been slightly different when producing a stopped mortise for long hinges.
I run the back of the box along the fence and have the stops set off to the left and right.
The way you have it, there's still a potential to overcut the stopped end when wasting away the middle.
As you say, "This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. ..." 
Adding stops to the left and right at the proper distance would be easy and possibly make your method flawless.


----------



## Tootles

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Gary, that's also what I did when I used piano hinge in a box. I had to do it as you did because my hinge was narrower than the thickness of my wood, so I had to set the depth of cut outwards from my fence as well as the distance for the stops.

I did like doing my hinge as you describe, but two possible problems occured to me that are worth highlighting (for the sake of others who read this):


 My fence was only just long enough for the size of my box. For a larger box, I would have had to install a longer fence, even if it was just an extra piece of wood temporarily screwed to my normal fence.
 Obviously, care must be taken to set the left and right stops the same distance away from the router bit. To make this easy, I cut a piece of scrap wood to the length that I wanted the hinge to be less the diameter of the router bit. Then I simply placed the scrap on the table left and right and touching the puter bit to set the stops.


----------



## bannerpond1

Boxguy said:


> *Mortising Piano Hinges In a Box (An Easy Method) *
> 
> *Overview:* In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box.
> 
> In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Centering:* Exactly center the hinge on the back of the box using a try square. Move a small try square from left side to right side. Adjust the blade of the try square in and out until the end blade of the try square just kisses the hinge on both sides. No real measuring is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take a few tries making fine adjustments and going back an forth, but when you are finished you will have your hinge in the exact center. Now lock down the stock of your try square to preserve that measurement. We are going to use this measurement to set up the router fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fence Location:* As you can see I use a simple clamping straight edge as a fence for this. It is light, easy to move and change, and stays in place. (Remember, when you are setting a router fence like this, all that matters is the distance between the fence and the cutter. If it isn't straight so what? The bit is round so straight isn't important, distance is.) With the head of the straight edged cutter bit turned so the longest point is closest to the fence, align the cutter with the stock and transfer the measurement you took when centering your hinge to be the distance between the fence and the point of the cutter. This needs to be an exact match and you should sight down the head to get the exact point of the cutter at the edge of your try square head. Bring your fence over until it touches the blade of your try square and lock the fence in place. With good light and some care this can be a very exact measurement…and it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cutting the Mortise:* What I didn't think to picture was setting the bit height. Put your hinge on the table and raise the bit until the top of the bit is at the exact center of the pin of your hinge. Since this mortising is all I do on this table, I leave it set for the hinges I buy.
> 
> Now bring your box down the fence to cut a mortise. Notice two things: One, I marked the back side with chalk so I don't screw up and cut the mortise on the front side. Two, be sure your table and fence are free of sawdust. Any dust between the box and the fence will throw off your measurements. Now reverse the box and cut the other end of your mortise going along the fence from the opposite side of the bit. Thus, you have cut both ends of your mortise and now all you do is freehand cut the waste wood between the two exact ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows cutting between the end cuts. Be careful not to cut too far. Listening for the end of the cut helps. (Of course if you were using 3/4 hinges and a 3/4 inch bit, you would be done and not need to cut out the waste.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat the same process for cutting the top. First cut the ends…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the waste between the two end cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Completed Mortise: * This shot shows the top and the bottom of the box held together so you can see the completed mortise. The ends match nicely, the mortise is evenly cut, and now you are ready to insert the hinge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Install The Hinge:* Here you see the hinge set in the mortise. If you have worked carefully (and are a little lucky) the hinge will be a nice snug fit. Install the hinge starting on the bottom of the box. This shows the reason. You can reach across the box and use your wrists and palms to hold the box down while you work. This is a good time to sand the inside and outside edges of your mortise to be sure there are no splinters to catch unwary fingers (like yours)...before you start putting the hinge in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Use a Vix Bit:* A Vix bit is a must. This bit centers the screw-hole you are drilling in the center of the hole in the hinge. Don't just set the Vix bit in the hole and jam the bit into the wood. Let the bit spin in the screw hole then while it is spinning lower your bit into the wood. Spinning the bit first lets it get better seated and you will have better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drill One Or Two Holes In the Bottom:* First put just one or two screws and screw holes in the top. Don't drill all the holes yet. If you missed the mark you can still make adjustments using the other holes to straighten it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Put One or Two Holes in the Top: * Check your fit. If it is just very slightly off you can sand the outside of the box so they match exactly. But if the sides and front don't match well, remove one or two screws and get the fit right. Here again it is a help if you have a back-rest to lean the bottom against so you can hold it in place and it gives you two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Check the Fit*: See if the sides and front match. If they do match, carefully open the box and install a few more screws and then check the fit again when you work on the bottom. It helps if your work station has some kind of rest to let the open box lean against so you have two free hands to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill and install all your remaining screws. I like to use an impact driver. It takes a bit to get the right touch with this tool, but it is far less likely to strip out the screw heads and brings the screws down snuggly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hinge Completed:* If all has gone well, your finished hinge will look like this on the outside of your box. As you can see here, I sand the back edges at the back corner to be sure the box will swing to 90 degrees
> 
> *The next time* I am daft enough to take on a pictured blog like this I will be writing about this sanding station. Who knew it would take 6 sanders to make a box? But it is much quicker than changing Velcro paper.


Box Guy,

Thanks for taking the time for the tutorials, especially cutting the mortises and installing the hinges. It is very helpful.

Dale in Monrovia, IN


----------



## Boxguy

*Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*

*Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)










*Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*

I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

*Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.










*General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*










*Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!










Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.










Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*










*Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)










The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.










Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.










I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.










With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.










Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.










With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.










Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.










Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.










Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.










*Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)










*Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.










Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up. 
I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.










*Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


----------



## Radish

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Smart modification!


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Or, you could get a couple of these from Harbor Freight at 6 bux each plus cheaper w/20% coupon… jus sayin:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-x-15-ft-ratcheting-band-clamp-66220.html


----------



## DIYaholic

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


I have used *UN*modified ratchet straps, in the past, as a band clamp. Your little "Hot Rodding", makes it soooo much better and more versatile. Thanks for going through the effort to document the process. I think some ratchet straps at work may suddenly go missing!!! Lol.


----------



## dustyal

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


I FINALLY have a need for that super long and tough screwdriver my dad left me… Hack saw or Dremel tool might help me to keep from melting the loop. And I was just at Harbor Freight when they had these straps on sale… and they had various lengths and weights. The smallest would do fine, I suspect.

Thanks for taking the time to do the blog… much appreciated. Dang, I think I could also do this to do a different cargo management system in the bed of the truck. I really don't need the hook as much as the basic loop strap.

Unfortunately, there is no excuse to go out and buy new tools… I have all of these!


----------



## GrandpaLen

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Big Al,

I bought a couple of wood working strap clamps at one of the wood working shows a few years back to use in the shop, as I remember they sold for $10 or $12 each.
Last year I was helping my son move and needed a couple tiedown straps and picked them up at HF , 4-pak for $7.99 plus Uncle Sam's cut, when we finished the move I hung them up and never gave it a thought to morph them into wood working clamps. Now they may get put back into action rather than hanging there collecting saw dust in the automotive section.
Thanks for sharing.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## dustyal

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


...hhhmmm … is it necessary to cut off the short end hook at the rivet? Could you leave the short end on the rivet and just grind the rivet head and remove leaving the loop of the short hook intact-for use in other purposes? Or, would it melt with the grinding required? Guess I will find out when I get a strap and try it.

I suspect I have a short clevis pin laying around with my boating stuff… might work instead of a bolt. I love these types of projects.

This would work for a recent chair leg glue up repair I need to do.


----------



## longgone

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


That is a really good idea. I have several of the Bessey strap clamps but the straps are a good bit longer than necessary for my box making needs and I hesitate to cut them because they were not cheap. I have about a dozen of the smaller strap clamps I have accumulated over the past few years and this would be a good usae for them.

I currently use the Vertias picture frame clamps with the threaded 1/4" rods. The work well but I might try the strap clamp conversions to see if they work better.


----------



## rtriplett

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Great post, I have avoided buying a band clap because of cost and the length was too much. This will work well for me. If i remember it tomorrow!!


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


*Replies To First Set of Comments:*

*Doug*, thanks!

*Roger*, I wish I had know about Harbor Freight's possible buy. I sort of avoid them for tools, but this product might work well. They do need a rubber handle cover.

*Randy*, happy five-finger discounting.

*Dusty*, comment on two postings. There is a fine line between woodworking and tool collecting. I have some times strayed over the line.

The short hook and loop…I have saved them for use on my tractor. I use one of the thread-together links and attach pull-behind implements like a drag for smoothing dirt and my drive way. They work great for that. I cut them away in the blog because it was faster.

*Len*, you have a knack for finding inexpensive tools. The latest Pony brand clamps are quite expensive and the toy ratchet and wrench don't work well.

*Greg*, I have tried the type of clamp you mention, but got really tired of all the adjustments needed to work on a wide variety of sizes of boxes. My experience is that as long as all 8 of your miter joints are cut all the way across the wood the belt clamps give good square results. This system doesn't work if a joint is a little short and has a flat spot on the point. You also have to be sure your inserted board is not too large…then the insert will hold the joint open. This method is easy and draws the joints together with equal tension. I tend to really tighten them up.

*Robert,* glad to help with the band clamp…sorry but can't help with the memory part. Was there a third thing….?


----------



## NormG

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Great idea, thanks for sharing


----------



## Philzoel

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Boxy, rockler makes a band clamp for I think $6 or 8 that look like your final. Are they?


----------



## Kookaburra

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Damn, I wish I had seen this a year ago. I have some I got for repair to an antique headboard - $35/each. I have used them only a couple of times but I could not come up with a good alternative at the time. (BTW, the bedroom set, just so you can all drool, is book matched crotch mahogany, inherited from my grandparents)

This looks like a great way to get that benefit for a lot less money - and nice clear instructions as well. Thanks Al.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


*Replies To Second Round of Comments:*

*Norm,* cute picture. Thanks for the comment. Looks like it is time for you to put up some projects as well.

*Phil*, I checked Rockler on line and didn't find anything under $16 to $50. However, look above at Roger's comments. He spotted something very similar at Harbor Freight. There really is a difference in the quality of some of these Chinese-made tie-downs. Rubber crank handles are a must.

*Kay*, crotch mahogany is indeed something to drool over. I was given a scrap piece with lots of cracks and checks that I have made into several tops that I plan to make into boxes this winter. It is beautiful stuff. I sure did like those lamp bases you made.


----------



## gfadvm

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


I too use ratchet straps for band clamps but instead of removing the ratchet pin, I just cut the short strap off and discard it. I then tie the hook end of the long strap to the rivet at the appropriate length. I use the 1" ratchet straps. We need more of these useful shop tips. Thanks for making others aware.


----------



## LittlePaw

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Ditto on all of the above!


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


*Response To Latest Comments:*

*Andy*, by dint of Occam's Razor your method would win hands down. Succinctly…Occam's Razor states that the simplest is the best. It is a rule that I often employ when I am debating how to make something work. Thanks for adding to the topic. So what do you do with the second hook?

*Paul,* ditto your ditto.


----------



## gfadvm

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Cut it off and toss it. Or save it for another project.


----------



## Greg3G

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Great tip…I think I will be making a few of these soon. You can never have enough clamps.


----------



## Ken90712

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Nice set up I remember reading this and thought I commented on it but I guess not. Great idea and good thinking.


----------



## maplerock

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


I cannot believe I just saw this! Last night I haphazardly did this to a set I bought yesterday! They work just fine, and now I can get that tight fit at the corners. This photo tutorial is great, I just wish I'd seen it yesterday! The only difference was I used bolt cutters to remove the pin, and I used a smaller bolt with a nut. No peening. THANKS!


----------



## dhampton

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Good post that was a lot of work! I've used these clamps unmodified and it was a pain. Your modification puts them on the top of my list to convert. Thanks.


----------



## CameronD

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Thanks, Big Al, for the tutorial. I picked up for 12 ft tie downs at Home Depot (their HDX brand) which has rubber overmolding on the ratchet handle as well as a rubber backing on the ratchet assembly, which I think would accomplish the same effect as the block of wood-to pad the work piece. A dremel with a cut-off wheel intended for metal made very quick work of cutting out the rivet, perhaps 30 seconds, and then another 1 minute or so to cut the hook right near where it connects back into itself, just where the rubber meets. I had to pause evert few seconds to let the wheel stop glowing. This meant I didn't need to try and bend the hook or the ratchet body.

Like Jerry above, once the rivet was removed I used a 1 1/4 inch hex bolt and hex nut. Both sides of the ratchet are even Rather than lopping off the excess and then peening the end, I used a little locktite to secure the hex nut. It may work itself over time, but for now I'll give it a go. As for the excess webbing, I just folded it up itself and put a rubber band to hold it until needed.

Total investment for four 12 ft band clamps was $15 and 30 minutes time. Already used it for one project, which I hope to post soon when it's done and I am sure there will be more.


----------



## davidmackv

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Great tutorial.


----------



## robscastle

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Well I have just modified a set I bought today, ready for the next Box

Thanks Big Al


----------



## Mossy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Awesome post.
I have just followed your guide and use these on my first box, I'm rapt !


----------



## stefang

Boxguy said:


> *Making Great $5 Band Clamps!*
> 
> *Overview: * If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hint: To make this a quick read just scan the dark print and look at the pictures. You can come back for the details if you need them.*
> 
> I will try to explain this process in two languages…English and pictures. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> *Start with a package of these*. Cheap tie-downs from Sam's or an auto store. Buy a set that has *rubber covered crank handles* as they are much easier on your hands when you tighten them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *General Idea: * What we are going to do is remove the hook on the long strap. Throw away the small strap. Grind away the rivet from the frame, and re-position the long strap so the looped end that held the hook is now re-connected with a bolt where the short strap was connected, and re-thread the long strap through the eye in the ratchet mechanism. *If this is confusing…just follow the pictured steps.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here are the tools* I used for this job. You don't need all of these, but they are useful if you have them. A vise, angle grinder (you could use an emery wheel or file), ball peen hammer, small vise grips, drift punch, scissors, channel locks, 1 inch x 1/4 inch bolt, a couple of wrenches to fit the bolt and nut, and a big screwdriver. If you have been looking for a use for that great big screwdriver that came in the Craftsman set you got for Christmas…this is your chance to finally use that sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by *cutting away the short strap* and hook with the scissors. *DO* *NOT* get carried away and cut the loop on the long strap! We will need this for later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have the fame with *no straps attached.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Twist the hook* on the longer strap to spring the eye of this hook slightly so you can slip the loop off the hook. Told you you could finally get to use that great big screwdriver. (This is much easier and faster than cutting the hook itself.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next modification is to *remove the rivet* holding the long strap onto the ratchet mechanism. We are going to grind off the head of the rivet to remove it without harming the ratchet frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the channel locks to *bend the frame* enough so the rivet head stands proud of the frame itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it useful to use the vise grips to *hold the rivet up* while the frame was clamped in the regular vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frame clamped back in the regular vise *grind* away the head of the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the hammer and a punch to *remove the rivet* from the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the channel locks *bend the frame back* into its original position making sure the ratchet can turn freely and the spring loaded catch mechanism works freely too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are going to *re-attach the loop* from the long strap (This loop originally held a hook we removed.) We will bolt it in place back on the frame using the holes from where the short strap was originally held in place by the rivet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see that the original *rivet has been replaced* by a 1/4 inch bolt and nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the vise putting the bolt head in the vise jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Grind away most of the bolt* sticking out beyond the frame, but leave about 1/8 of and inch to peen down. *Caution: don't let the bolt get so hot you melt the nylon strap. If you melt through the loop the clamp can't work.* (The voice of experience speaking here.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Peening the threaded end *means you batter what is sticking out beyond the nut spreading the end of the bolt so the nut won't be able to come off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final step…take all the twists out of the strap and *thread* the loose end of the *strap through the eye in the ratchet* mechanism. You need to feed the strap from the bottom of the clamp to the top so it will draw around the box as you tighten it up.
> I keep my supply of these straps hanging on my glue-up table. They are color coded for length since it is awkward gluing up a small box with a longer strap. *Hint:* I usually put a small block of *wood under the ratchet body* to prevent denting the wood when the clamp is tightened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* for working through all these steps with me. This post was really tedious for me, but hopefully it will cover any problems you have with the process. If you have questions ask, please *Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.*


Thanks for sharing this with us Al. The ratchet type band clamps are the best and your modification makes it a whole lot better.


----------



## Boxguy

*Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*

*Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*

Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.

The trick is to use brass set up bars.

I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.










Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.










Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.










Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.










Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


----------



## indgreg

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


thanks for advice ive yet to try a spline n boxes but want to try this will help


----------



## indgreg

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


thanks for advice ive yet to try a spline n boxes but want this will help


----------



## woodshaver

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


Now that a good way to do it! Thanks Al !


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


Seems quick and speedy, thanks Big Al


----------



## ellen35

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


Great tip.


----------



## moonls

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


Thanks for the great new way to use my set up bars.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


As Lynrd Skynrd sang: "be a simple…........kind of man" That's a gr8 tip Al


----------



## robscastle

Boxguy said:


> *Process For Setting Depth for Spline Cuts*
> 
> *Setting up saw blades for slot cuts in box corners.*
> 
> Here is a quick way to set up your saw for cutting spline slots using a spline cutting jig and a dado blade. This method involves no measuring and take only a minute or two.
> 
> The trick is to use brass set up bars.
> 
> I keep my set close to the dado saw in my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the largest bar on a 45 degree angle on the corner of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add other bars until you get a combination that is just a little under the width of the box corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now move these bars to the saw blade and crank it up or down until you have matched the height of the saw blade and the height of the set up bars. A finger touch will tell you when they are even. The blade tooth needs to be top dead center when you measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can cut your spline slots without fear of cutting through your box corners. Have fun and look at my blog tutorial on how to build a slot cutting jig.


Ah so thats how you do it ! I spend some time and made made a replica Jig!

I will have to ammend my blog so others dont pick up on "not so smart" ideas.
I am off to check ou your slot cutting Jig now.


----------



## Boxguy

*Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*

*A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*










If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.

*Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.










(above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.

*IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *










(above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.

Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.










Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.










(above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
Then cut the opposite end too.










(above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.










*Jig Building Hints:*

(above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.










(above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.

*Additional Suggestions:*

While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.










(above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*

Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.

Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.

Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.

In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


----------



## CalgaryGeoff

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Wow, that's quite an impressive invention for 45 deg corners. It looks to be sturdy and well used.

Here's a picture of the one I use for my 45 deg box corners.


----------



## JR45

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Thanks for posting this. I have been trying to figure out how to do something similar to this for a while. Will it accommodate different thicknesses of wood or does the angled bed need adjusting each time to take the wood closer to or further away from the blade?
Jim


----------



## tsuga

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Boxguy and CalgaryGeoff, like each jig. 45 from a 90 blade and a 45 blade. 
Any more jig posts out there? 
104 days I am a member. New to LJ and NEW to woodworking.
Read LJ one and two times a day every day. Learning something every day.
To all you pros out there, all of you look like pros to me, I am sure there are a few more newbies like me
on here and believe me we learn from each and every one of you. 
Thank you, all, even the simplest things.
From my shoes it is a whole new world.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


A couple few questions Big Al,

1. Which jig clamp system is that you are using?
2. What is the difference if any dado on the bottom opposed to a .45 mitered bottom?

Thanks


----------



## GrandpaLen

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Big Al,

*"So I built this simple jig…"*

Simple…, yes, but with the sophistication of the Projects you build with it.

That Jig has so many additional miter uses, we should have one hanging next to our Crosscut Sleds.

...I need to go shopping for some of that hardware today.

Well done and a big LJs' "Thank You" for sharing.

Best Regards. - Len.

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Randy, I think this is an All-In-One clamp, but honestly any of the similar straight edge clamps will do. Remember you need them to fit flush on the jig's top surface. This brand is a little thinner than most.

I think a 45 bottom is very difficult to do and get a nice fit. With a dado groove bottom it is easy and has a good deal of forgiveness in the fit. I'll do a tutorial some time on fitting in the bottom. It is not hard if you use the right process. A 45 relies on glue, the dado groove version is mechanical and can float. The only way I have found to get a good fit on the 45 is to run the edge across a router bit to get a crisp 45 on both faces…then everything has to fit up tightly and the fit is tough. With a groove all of that is easy and the solid wood bottoms can float.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Ah ok great, thanks for that explanation. I've done kitchen cabinet drawers so I'm thinking it's the same process on these boxes.

*Side Note* I just got back from local woodcraft and bought the forrest only instead of a grind 2 I bought a grind 1.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


No wonder yer the "Box-Guy". This helps splain it.


----------



## dclark1943

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Hey Box-guy; thanks a bunch for this posting. I am about 4 years into box building, and find something new everyday. I really appreciate your approach to this process, as I have tried just about every approach to this I can think of, and your post turned on a light. I currently have a jessem sliding table on my saw, and use a clamp on the miter attachment to cut the sides, which are held on edge. This works great on narrow sides, but doesn't work on wider sides. Sooooo looks like I'll be building me a jig similar to what you have shown here. thanks again for your willingness to share! I have some of my stuff posted on my website: www.clarkco-boxes.com; If you're interested take a gander at some of my attempts at boxes. 
Happy box building.


----------



## HuckD

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Boxguy, thanks for posting this project and thanks for linking to it in your current project. I've only been on LJ a few months and had not seen this. I'll be building one of these. Favorited!


----------



## kevinw

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Any insights on how to get the jig angle exactly 45 degrees? If the slightest bit off it is a problem. I built another jig for this type operation and somehow got it off a bit. Quite frustrating.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Kevin, I cut the supporting 2×8 on the miter saw and used half of each cut for the mounts. I think it is important to screw the parts together so you don't get too much slack in the joints. I also blow off the table saw and the jig each time I use it. A little sawdust on the table or in the miter gauge slot can throw off your cut. It is also important to give the jig a wide base so it will be stable as you cut.


----------



## lj61673

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Well, that certainly is a complicated solution to a very simple problem. 
$29 gets you a Beall or Wixley angle gauge.

Set blade to 90deg. 
Put magnetic gauge onto blade and press button to zero out.
Adjust blade until gauge reads 45deg.
Done.

Your jig is only as accurate as the person building it.

The angle gauge is perfect every time, is cheaper and doesn't take any time to build.

Whatever works for you.


----------



## kevinw

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


I have a really old saw where the table adjusts rather than the blade for angled cuts. Very clumsy plus I extended the table to cut larger sheet goods so now it is nearly impossible to do angled cuts so something like this would be really helpful.


----------



## Maveric777

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Outstanding and very useful jig you have here Box Guy. Think one of my biggest issues in the shop is a solid dead on 45 for my boxes. May have to try my hands at one of these jewels for my shop… Thanks for sharing you handy work….


----------



## Heisinberg

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Cool jig! I will definitely be building something similar in the future


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


*lj61673,* Your bench and dining room projects are well done. You might want to add to your home page when you have some time and energy for that.

I have and use the Wixy and the Cube they are great set up tools. All I can say is have fun cranking. If you are making many boxes you will get a great chance to have that arm workout. Of course if you make just one or two boxes a year, you should use the crank and Wixy method and not invest time in making a jig. I added this post for guys who make lots of boxes or other projects that require a 45 at the end of a board.

This jig lets me be accurate every time and repeat the lengths for the sides and ends of boxes. In the time I can crank the blade back and forth, I can have all 8 of my box ends 45ed perfectly and am on the next step. I have recouped the time it took me to build this jig over and over. *But,* I am making lots of boxes too.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Hi Alan

I'm revisiting this again, I've been using my Dewalt miter saw but I grow tired of doing the fine cuts to even up the pieces and was hoping this method would solve that problem so I have a question, do you remember where you purchased the tracking system at and or part numbers?

Thanks


----------



## cdaniels

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


this looks great! i've gone through all of your tutorials to see how you do it. Seems like you pretty much have everything figured out. that's pretty evident by your boxes!


----------



## helluvawreck

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


That is a very interesting jig. Congratulations on a nice addition to your shop.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## observer100

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


Another important thing of interest about this jig is that the 'reference' for the 45 degree bevel is the OUTSIDE surface of the piece. If the INSIDE surface of the piece is not perfectly parallel to the outside (some of mine are not) the box will still assemble with 90 degree corners on the outside surfaces. Nice!

I had made a smaller jig that follows this same concept and really like the fact that I can leave the blade at 90 degrees to the table and yet cut a repeatable, accurate 45 degree edge in a matter of seconds.

Box Guy's jig is more elaborate (which I like) than mine. I see everything I wish I had with my jig. My boxes are rather small but the many benefits to his jig still apply. I make only a few boxes but a good jig is the way to go.


----------



## Stubie

Boxguy said:


> *Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles*
> 
> *A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES.
> 
> *Assumption:* I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side and have cut a dado slot in these boards that will accept the bottom board of your finished box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) The key to efficiency is this jig. It is designed to hold the box side on a 45 degree angle. It has an adjustable stop running vertically in a track, and a clamp to hold it while you run it across the blade. Used properly, your hands will be well out of the way while this is happening.
> 
> *IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU USE THIS JIG. THE SMALL CUT OFF FROM THE DADO GROOVE CAN REALLY FLY AROUND THE SHOP. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) To operate the jig, put the bottom dado cut up and clamp the box side in the jig. Feel under the clamped side to see that just a little of the bottom edge of the board extends just beyond the blade-side part of the jig. Now, BRING THE SLIDING STOP DOWN TO CONTACT THE TOP EDGE OF THE CLAMPED SIDE AND LOCK THE STOP. The stop is the white plastic piece with the knob in the sliding track.
> 
> Use the clamp lever to be sure the box side is firmly clamped and seated properly in the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use the jig to slide the jig and board over the saw blade. KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL INSIDE AND TO THE BACK OF THE JIG. USE THE HANDLE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) Now slide the jig well back on your table saw so the board is well back and out of the way of the blade. To be safe turn off the saw. Release the clamp, spin the side around and put the newly cut edge against the stop.
> Then cut the opposite end too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This shows the two ends cut. *IMPORTANT:* DON'T MOVE THE STOP. WHILE YOU HAVE THIS SETTING, CUT THE OPPOSING SIDE OF THE BOX…NOW BOTH OPPOSING SIDES WILL BE *IDENTICAL* IN LENGTH.
> If you are making a square box leave the stop in place and cut the next two sides. If it is oblong, reset the stop for the next two sides and cut them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Jig Building Hints:*
> 
> (above) This shot shows the bottom of the jig. It runs on a single guide. I prefer UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic for runners. These guides don't swell or shrink and are self lubricating. If you let the guide extend a bit beyond the back of the jig it makes it easy to align the guide with the table saw slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This is not a great shot, but you can see the clamping board is supported by an angle cut 2×6.
> 
> *Additional Suggestions:*
> 
> While I used a dual clamp modified to hold the clamp in the the jig with one side, and the box side to be cut is clamped on the other side, you could use a simple clamp to hold the box side and screw it securely to fasten it to the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) I have found that having the saw-side edge elevated about an inch above the table allows the cut of edges to drop in the center of the blade and the cutoffs are less likely to be thrown by a moving blade. *A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT IS A MUST SO THE SMALL CUT OFFS DON'T GET WEDGED BETWEEN A MOVING BLADE AND THE INSERT.*
> 
> Recess your clamp so it is even with the angled top of the jig.
> 
> Be careful not to let the angled edge of the cut and spun board slip under your stop. If I build another of these, I'll put a dado and a finger on the stop to prevent the angled side from slipping under the stop.
> 
> Design your stop so it stays square to the vertical track.
> 
> In practice this jig is quick and easy to use and the build is not really complex. It saves me a ton of time.


You are trapping the material between a stop block and the blade. ???


----------



## Boxguy

*Making an Attached Top Box*

I make two kinds of box tops.










Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,










and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.

Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.










The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.










So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.










To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.

Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.










This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.










This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.

So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.










When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


----------



## CalgaryGeoff

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Awesome idea. Thanks for posting.


----------



## ellen35

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Great idea on the press. It is like having a caul that covers the entire top and bottom… you are a clever man!


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Just what I needed, thanks for this tutorial big Al, is there ever anytime that you would use a .45 mitered top? The reason I ask is because I was at one of our local woodworkers meetups and the organizer also a class teacher demonstrated all sides, bottom and top mitered.


----------



## ratchet

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Good blog! Your clamp appears to function well. Thx for sharing it with us.


----------



## moonls

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


That's a very clever idea. You've eliminated a lot of clamps!


----------



## longgone

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Good design Big Al…You have designed alot of creative jigs for making your work easier and faster.


----------



## DocSavage45

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


I like the inovative use of springs to aid in efficiency! And the metal reinforcement for keeping pressue equal.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Blackie, your question is would I ever use mitered top? I just finished making some boxes of African Mahogany Crotch grain and wanted to have the grain wrap around the box from back to front instead of from side to side. Now you need to know that this takes a very wide board… nearly 18 inches…but I had that kind of wood and board. I think the Brit Box Maker uses this 45 technique in his EZ box method too. Aside from that, I can see any advantage in this joinery and it takes a lot of extra work to make this type of joint.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Big Al that makes perfect since, I guess you could use this technique if you combined (joined) two together or maybe a center piece of different wood or two outer pieces.

Thanks


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Randy, this is an example of just what you are talking about. A center-matched piece in an inset box top. It can be quite effective visually. I would guess the instructor is using some version of the EZ box method seen here by the Brit Boxmaker.


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


That is a fine press. Ingenious!


----------



## exit116

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


such a great idea, I like the use of the impact driver because it has built in torque stop to clamp evenly.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Awesome box clamp.


----------



## ncdon

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Great idea, there will be a box clamp in the shop very soon. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## PhillyChopSaw

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Hey Box guy! I am trying your box making method today. I have a few obstacles, like its 4 degrees and snowing, but other than that i am rolling. Quick question: When gluing on the top and bottom, what is your method for keeping the glue out of the interior of the box?

For example, I have two box carcasses right now that are just sides with no top or bottom. I made a top and bottom for one of them. Brought them inside and glued them up. But I fear when I cut the box in half, there will be a lot of glue run-off inside the box that will be difficult to sand/get rid of. How do you do it?


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


*Philly*, sorry I couldn't write earlier, but my grandson is staying with us this weekend. Let me know how your project turns out and what I can do to improve on my directions.

Squeeze out inside a lid or box in general is a problem. On the corners it is not too bad. If you can still reach inside the box, a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to wipe off the blade will do the job. While the glue is wet and a bit ropey just scrape the glue away. If you can find the time to put a coat of finish on the inside before you glue up the box, you can avoid any glue stain when you apply the finish.

Squeeze out at the top is another matter and can be a big problem. First, when I apply the glue, I just put it on the top of the box sides. Try to put the glue primarily on the outside of the rim. I leave the inside bare, then I spread just a fine, very thin coat of glue on the inside of the rim. So, there is some glue there, but not much. The next problem is to prevent the lid from sliding back and forth while you clamp it down.










This may sound silly, but a very small amount of table salt applied to the two long sides will help keep the lid from moving. The sharp edges of the salt sort of dig in and help. It doesn't take but a few grains to do the job.

If you have squeeze-out on the inside I have tried several things. Taking a sharp chisel or knife and making a cut along the vertical edge is the first step. Then a sharp chisel will help scrape the glue off. I often use the back side of the chisel to scrape the last remaining glue off. A pad sander or a mouse can help, but you often have to re-sand the whole inside of the lid. Basically, it is a royal pain and you are far better off to do everything you can to minimize internal squeeze-out.

Box with attached bottom:










*For the second part of the question:* I would glue the top on first and then clamp up the box. After about a half an hour, unclamp the box and clean up the un-set glue by scraping.

Then glue on the bottom and let the box set for at least an hour before cutting off the top. It would be better to wait a day or several hours to really let the glue harden. The reason for this is that the bottom doesn't show as much and you can always add a cloth liner to cover up the glue and chisel marks. Box with attached bottom and simple lid.










I nearly always set my bottom in a half-inch dado and glue the plywood bottom in place. Since plywood doesn't move with moisture, you can glue it in and it will act as a spline to hold the box together. You have to let a natural piece of wood float in the dado as it will expand with moisture.


----------



## PhillyChopSaw

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


Hey Big Al thanks a lot for feedback that is awesome advice! I have two boxes rolling right now, both are tiger maple with cherry. The first one, I just glued the 1/2" cherry to the top and bottoms of the tiger maple sides. Still kind-of learning, but I intend to flush trim it and then do round overs on all edges and finish it. Hopefully, the inside of the box doesn't have too much excess glue, but I will be doing exactly what you said, so thanks.

The second one i am thinking i might try more of what you are suggesting; since the box sides are already constructed I will put a top on, then rabbett the bottom and put a piece of birch ply in there. I also may put some splines in this one.

I'm planning on posting the project. Thanks a lot for awesome advice.


----------



## PhillyChopSaw

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.





















Coming along pretty good. Some of the round overs are a little rough, but I like the round style slightly better than my first box (the square birch + walnut splines). THX!


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making an Attached Top Box*
> 
> I make two kinds of box tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boxes with *inset tops * (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *attached tops *where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the *attached top* method, and a press design to help with this process.
> 
> Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring and plastic pipe around the all-thread at each corner. The springs are meant to hold the press open so you can place a box inside without having to fight with the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in this box the splines were glued in, the top has had glue applied and has had the rough top set on the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save time I often will install the splines and add the top then I can let both of them cure at the same time.
> 
> Now it gets set into the press and then I use an impact driver to tighten the nuts and apply even pressure to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This version has a welded metal lattice that keeps the all-thread from turning and strengthens the bottom plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot demonstrates a 2×8 wooden cull added on top of the box top to make it easier to tighten in the press.
> 
> So now you can tighten the nuts with the impact driver and let the glue dry. Sure, you could use a ratchet wrench, but the impact driver is so much cooler and faster. I usually start at opposing corners and then move in and do a final re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the press is not being used, the press and some culls are stored on the shelf above the glue-up table.


*Philly*, your boxes look great. Thanks for sharing them. Love the grain in that cherry top.

On the unfinished box, now is the time for you to sand off the rough waves and corners…before you cut the top off. Don't forget to mark the back…where the ends of the board joins. Details for cutting off lids and adding hinges at this link.










I just use chalk to mark the box. Once you cut off the top it is difficult to tell which parts go where. Especially on fine grained wood. The chalk will tell you where you want to add a hinge and finger lift.

In your picture I see one unfinished box has been trimmed and routed. At this stage I use 80 grit on my random orbital sander and sand off any glue, burn marks, wavy routs, machine marks, or imperfections. It is tougher to do this when you have cut off the lid and have a hinge to contend with.. The trick is to let the sander float in your hand and go from flat side to flat side when you round off the corners and the top. Don't let the edge of the sanding disk dig into your box.

Good luck. Keep boxing and keep posting.


----------



## Boxguy

*Adding Splines To A Box*

*Adding Splines To a Box*

Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.










The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.

I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.










Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.

(below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*










(above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.

So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)










Let's take a close look at the corners.










As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.

After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.










With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.

For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.










Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.

When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.










To see other boxes click here.

PS

Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


----------



## ellen35

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


Al,
I do know how complicated and time consuming writing this kind of blog is… you have done an excellent job. I particularly like your technique and your pictures. All the little hints are great as well (upside down glue bottle, your glue center) I cut my excess off the splines with a dozuko saw. This works well too.
Ellen


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


Ellen, I have used that saw for this job and you are right is does work very well. Guess I am just getting lazy in my old age.


----------



## moonls

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


I agree with Ellen that you did a nice job and the finished box you illustrated shows you are the box master!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


I agree 100%, excellent job.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


*Lorna*, thanks. I hope these tutorials help some fellow LJs. Good luck with your summer sales.

*Topa*, thanks and it is always good to hear from you.


----------



## harrywho

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


Great tutorial Al! I've just finished rereading all 10 entries and I'm sure I will refer to them often. I'm going to TRY to make some of those great jigs you've described.
Thanks again.
Harry up in NE Indiana


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


I sure appreciate you sharing your expertise on the subject of boxes. Kudos to you Al


----------



## woodworksbyjohn

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


Boxguy, I have a question. When you glue the top solidly onto the box do you ever have an issue with it splitting? I was always told that the top should be able to float to allow for temperature and humidity changes. I see you have done this before so wondering if you've had any problems with that-Thanks


----------



## skiler

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


Great looking work! Thanks for sharing. Gonna give this a try.


----------



## vigneron

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


I learned a lot. It's clearer than most books and I really appreciate all the effort you put into it. Thanks for the tutorials !


----------



## woodworksbyjohn

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


Excellent tutorial, thanks


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


*Reply about splitting tops.*

*John*, you are right about the attached lid boxes; there is a risk of cross grain splitting. Only time will tell. I have some that have gone about 10 years with no signs of a crack, but it could happen with a top glued on to the cross grain. Smaller size and air dried wood seems to help. It would not be a good idea with a larger box.

The inset tops that float would be a better bet for a box that you wanted to last for 100 years. I like the look so well that I can't resist making them this way.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


This is a very useful blog, thanks a bunch for taking the time Big Al

When cutting the access away from my splines I take it to the bandsaw with a 3/16" 14 TPI blade I am able to do a complete row at one time, then finish the rest on the 4" belt sander.

As for as wood movement, could it be that these boxes are small enough that movement isn't as big an issue as a much larger project say for example a cabinet door?


----------



## robscastle

Boxguy said:


> *Adding Splines To A Box*
> 
> *Adding Splines To a Box*
> 
> Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to glue the splines into the slots.
> 
> I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond's Carpenter's and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and much less runny, but it should be stored upside down to be sure it flows out when you squeeze the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping your plumber's brushes in water will let you reuse these brushed for months. Dry them on a paper towel before you apply glue.
> 
> (below) This is a demonstration box that I use to explain to customers and students the steps involved in the spline process. *All the spline slots are cut and the splines glued in place and smoothed down even with the sides of the box before the top of the box is separated and the hinge is added.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (above) This represents adding the splines in the demo box. There is a tutorial about gluing on a lid onto the box.
> 
> So now you have a rough box complete and it looks like this. (Below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's take a close look at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the top and the splines are hanging over the sides. Now make to trip to the *band saw and trim *away most of that overhang without cutting into the side of the box.
> 
> After bandsawing away the overhanging top and splines, It will look something like this on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the overhang removed you can now apply a large bearing-centered flush trim bit to remove the last of the overhanging top board. The alternative is to use rough grit sandpaper to remove the last of the spline overhang and top overhang and then make the sides of the box smooth and all surfaces flush. This will give you a box that looks something like this corner does.
> 
> For rounding over the corners and the top of the box your bearing has to ride on the smooth sides of the box. There is a real possibility of kickback when you are using a large roundover bit on a router. Use a starter pin, and consider making a light pass first, then another pass. Grip the box tightly and be very wary of kickback! You may be more comfortable using a flush trim bit on the first step of this route to smooth away the overhanging top after you have used the band saw. The flush trimming bit will remove the last of the top overhang on the side of the box or you can smooth away the last of the spline and top overhang with sanding using rough grits. This is the time you want to remove all of the glue squeeze out from gluing your splines into the slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next the top is separated and hinges are added and the corners are sanded and finished.
> 
> When all this is done you should have a box that looks something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To see other boxes click here.
> 
> PS
> 
> Making a tutorial with this many links and pictures is pretty exhausting. I hope it is of use to my fellow Lumber Jocks.


OK more invaluvable info hers again Big Al,
I think Blackie summed it up in the first line.

But thanks again.!!


----------



## Boxguy

*Making Indented Finger Lifts*

*How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *

*In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.

*If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*










*Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.

This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.










*The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.

Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.

*Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.

Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.










There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.










*Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)

Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.










Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.










It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.

Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.










*Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.










If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.

Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.

*Cutting The Flanking Notches:*

I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.










The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide. 
The center piece is as wide as the guide.
So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.

*How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.

*Doing These Steps In Pictures:*

Remove the spacing jig from the guide










Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.










Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.










Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.










As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.

*Added Hints:*

I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.










A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.










Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.

*A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.

Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)

Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.

Slant your table and cut your center indent.

Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.

Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.

*This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *










*Comments:*

*As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


----------



## captferd

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


fantastic jig. takes the sander to another level.


----------



## Dave777

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Thanks so much for sharing your experience.
Dave


----------



## ellen35

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Great tutorial! i'll be trying this soon… thanks to you!
Ellen
also… love the boxes, as usual


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Big Al, I like your method, when you move to the hand sanding stick, what do you think about using a dremel with a sander on the end, the Dremel is what I use to make my finger lifts.

I do similar what you do, I find the center, then I measure out 1/2 on both side of the center line then make a pencil marks then using my dremel I start on the center line slowing digging it out while moving back and forth to the outside marked lines but I would like to incorporate the triple finger lift.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## woodshaver

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Nice job on you tutorial Al. I learn a few things here. 
Thank you for sharing your expertise!


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Very kool BigAl. Appreciate the how-to.


----------



## moonls

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Another great use for my spindle sander! Thanks for the tutorial.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Thanks for the feedback. If you have questions or problems, feel free to send them my way. Keep boxing and keep posting.


----------



## vigneron

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Thanks Alan, that's a great tutorial. And I like that you thought about those (like me) who don't have a spindle sander but only sanding drums on the drill press…


----------



## dustyal

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Thanks for doing this… Don't have the oscillating spindle sander yet, so will try some set ups on my drill press with drum sander… but got the idea…

Much appreciated…


----------



## RUINTUIT

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Just spent most of my morning going through your blogs. Enjoyed every one of them and appreciate your attention to detail and no nonsense, clear and concise explanations. Pictures are all great and like you suggest mostly self explanatory. Look forward to more when you have the time.

Thanks again

Scott


----------



## jm82435

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Hmm I always thought you did those with a forstner bit at the drill press…


----------



## gsmarvel

Boxguy said:


> *Making Indented Finger Lifts*
> 
> *How To Make An Indented Finger Lift *
> 
> *In short*, you use an oscillating spindle sander set on an angle to sand away the center indent, and a spacer jig set over the locking guide to sand away the two smaller indents.
> 
> *If you are just making one or two boxes, at the end of this tutorial I will make suggestions for how to do this same task much more simply if you don't want to make the jig, modify the table top, or buy a locking straight edge.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks* to Maplerock aka Jerry for coming by the shop to help me with these pictures.
> 
> This year I have been using a three-part finger indent for my boxes. As requested, this is a how-to tutorial for how I make these lifts in my shop. Skip to the end if you want a scaled down version of this technique. When this process is finished, it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Goal:* We want to cut a centered finger lift in the front of the box. The process starts with an Oscillating Jet Table-Top spindle sander like this.
> 
> Like some of you, I bought a spindle sander some time back for another project. It has been just sitting around the shop with nothing much to do since. So once I came up with this design for my boxes it had a job, and we both were happy again.
> 
> *Modifications:* If you are just making one box, you could use the original top of the tool, but there is not much room to work. The same steps are used if you are working on the original tool's top.
> 
> Since I make a lot of boxes, I modified the tool. I added a bigger, half inch plywood top. On the back side of the top, it has a frame around the tool's original metal top and is fastened down securely with a tapped-in threaded knob. I also added a line drawn from the center of the spindle down the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a removable cleat on the left hand side that comes in handy when the table is slanted. The next modification is a clamping straight edge. I would also recommend an accessory such as a wide jaw or added squaring attachment. (Pictured below) It helps to keep the clamping edge square to the line and will add accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Measuring For The First Cut:* Now lets get to the actual work. Find the front-center of your box. Marking is more accurate than measuring. So, use a combination square to do that job. (We need to set the square's blade to the box's center anyway for the next step.)
> 
> Make a guess at the center of the box and hold the combination square on one side of the box like this. Mark the end of your blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now flip the combination square to the other side and mark the end of the blade. Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is difficult to judge the center of a 12 inch box. It is easy to judge the center between two marks an inch or so apart. (This method works if your guess is long or short.) Move your blade to the center of the two marks (the center of the box) and draw a dark mark at the center. Be sure your blade is set at the center mark. Keep your blade locked down and use it for the next step.
> 
> Using the spindle center line as a base, and your combination square as a guide, set and lock the straight edge so the spindle will cut right at the center of your box-front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Making The First Indent:* Slide your box up the guide being sure it is touching all along the guide and is square to the center line. Lightly touch the box to leave a small mark. Check to see if it aligns with the center mark you added to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the spindle is not aligned with the mark, you can still make changes and sand away your mistake at this point. Now sand your center finger lift. A steeper angle on the sander will give you a shorter, deeper lift. A more shallow angle will give you a longer lift. There is no formula here, but bigger boxes generally look better with longer lifts. Don't sand so deeply that you go through the thickness of your box.
> 
> Hooray! The center cut is complete. You can stop here or you can add the two small indents at each side.
> 
> *Cutting The Flanking Notches:*
> 
> I use a simple jig to space the three notches evenly with no measuring. Look closely at this shot of the jig that lays over the guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right-hand walnut spacer is 5/8 inches wide.
> The light maple wood spacer is 1 1/4 or 10/8 inches wide.
> The center piece is as wide as the guide.
> So, the maple spacer is twice as wide as the walnut spacer.
> 
> *How The Jig Works:* We can use this jig to move the box into three positions. When the narrow spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is centered on the spindle. When the wide spacer is between the guide and the spindle, the box is moved 5/8 of an inch further from the guide. When we take the jig off the guide entirely, the box slides 5/8 of an inch toward the guide. There is no measuring and the three notches are in the right place every time.
> 
> *Doing These Steps In Pictures:*
> 
> Remove the spacing jig from the guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a *steeper angle* to the table top, move the box over to the bear guide and slide it to the spindle. It just takes a slight touch here, and it will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, put the *thick* side of the spacing jig over the guide and make sure the thick side is facing the spindle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring your box up to the spindle for another quick touch. It should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you don't move the guide fence, you can go back and re-sand any of your lifts and make them even or deeper by using the spacer jig.
> 
> *Added Hints:*
> 
> I use a 1" spindle with a 100 grit sleeve for sanding these. You may be happier with a larger or smaller spindle and a rougher or smoother grit. I find it is quicker to use the rougher grit and do just a bit of hand touch up when I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wide variety of shapes and sizes can be achieved by changing the angles and the depth of the notches. Have fun with that. I also sand the outside edges of the notches, the top lid edge above the lift, and the internal ridges of the lift so it feels good to the touch when you open the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the set-up time, I can create a three part finger lift for most boxes in about 5 minutes…certainly less time than it takes to explain how to do it in this forum.
> 
> *A Simple Method: * If you are just making a box or two I have a less elegant, but accurate way of doing this. I used this method while I was developing what I have shown above.
> 
> Draw a line on your sander table from the spindle center down to the front edge of the table. (No spindle sander? With some set up, you could use a sanding drum in a drill press to do this job as well.)
> 
> Use a combination square to set a locking or clamped straight edge as I described above, but tape a 5/8 piece of wood to the side of your guide before you set your guide in place.
> 
> Slant your table and cut your center indent.
> 
> Remove the tape and 5/8 strip and cut the new indent at a steeper angle.
> 
> Add a 1 1/4 inch spacer taped to the side of your guide. At the same angle as the last cut, sand out the other indent on the side of the center cut.
> 
> *This method uses no jigs, no table modifications, and you don't have to have a clamping straight edge. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Comments:*
> 
> *As always, thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.* Keep boxing and keep posting.


Great info Al. Thanks for taking time to post your tips, tricks and expertise. I know I will use much of it on future projects.


----------



## Boxguy

*Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*

How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?










Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.










This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.

The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
.
.
*Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*

By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.

A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
,

.

*Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*

First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*










.
.

*The Process in Words*

*Build a box the right size for teabags.*

*Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.

*Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.

Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.

Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.

*Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.

Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.

*Dry fit *the grid inside the box.

While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*

*Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.

*Wipe* away excess glue.

Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
.
.
*The Process in Pictures*
.
.
First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.










The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.










Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.










Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.

Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.

If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*










You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
.
.

*Summary so far:*

We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.

*So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.










Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.










Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.










Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.










Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.










Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.










Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.










Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.










Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.










A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.










Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.










Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.










Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.

*I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.










Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.










You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.










This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.










I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.










When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.










No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.









Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.










Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.










*Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.

*Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Another gem in a series of gems. Thanks so much Boxguy, your blogs are very helpful, and you are a great contributor on this site. When I first got here you helped me out a lot. Your work is inspiring.


----------



## Jeff82780

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Thanks for the tutorial, u are very good at making boxes!


----------



## sedcokid

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Thanks for the tutorial!!

Thanks for sharing!

Chuck


----------



## ellen35

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Awesome idea! I never thought of using venetian blinds…
I do have one additional comment - when I make my tea boxes, I leave the inserts loose so they can be removed and the box cleaned. I find that tea has a way of escaping even in those nice packets! The trick is in knowing how to get them back together.
Great tutorial… it shall go into my favorites.
Ellen


----------



## dclark1943

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Thanks for taking the time to share, we all learn something from each post; so keep up the good work.


----------



## doubleDD

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


This is helpful information. Thanks for sharing with us. I will save for the next build.


----------



## woodsmithshop

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


great tutorial, a lot of good info.


----------



## DocSavage45

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


You're putting those teaching skills to good use!  This blog took some time to put together. Well done.

I'm actually getting to the point where I will be making a box or two soon. Got to do some major maintenance first.

will be coming back to use your blogs.

Ever consider putting this into a book form?

Wabe Sabi


----------



## 1Woody

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Where do you find the nice WOODEN Venetian blinds? Seams most of the blinds you buy now a days are plastic.


----------



## dustyal

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Thanks for tutorial. Your effort to put it together is appreciated.

I have been wanting to make a display case for my shot glass collection. Your methods would work well for that project. Wood slats would be strong enough. Now to find a blind in the dumpster or something. Might take a few calls to retail installers.

Another example: Some ladies collect sewing thimbles…


----------



## Sigung

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Wow, what an amazing blog post! Thanks for this. I have one question, or maybe it's just a musing. I was thinking that if you didn't glue the grid into the box, that it could be re-purposed at any given time, but that's just me . Beautiful tutorial Boxguy.


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


What a great write up Big Al, I didn't make it all the way through but am saving it for later because I know I'm going to need it at some point.

I've already purchased a set of blinds so I have tons of slats.

Right now the men's valet box design that I've been making as become a huge hit and selling like hot cakes no more then I get one made and posted they are sold, I've even tried raising the prices to slow sells down just so I can breath but all that's doing is making my pockets larger LOL and still receiving orders for them, my problem is I don't want to make it a job, I want to keep it fun and I've taken your advise I'm not taking on any more special orders, just what I am currently making.


----------



## pastorsteve70x7

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


You always do such a great job of teaching! And motivating! I have a box laid out, but have been too sick to feel safe on the saw. Just reading your blog post made me feel better. Thanks Brother.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Awesome tutorial! Another trade secret exposed ;-)


----------



## Blackie_

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Big Al I failed to mention in my comment above, I owe it all to (mainly) you among others here on LJ for my success, once again thank you for sharing your great tutorial.


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


*Replies:*

I am surprised at the responses to this tutorial. I didn't expect that. I thought I should do this as a group response since other readers may have the same questions.

*Whisperer*, glad to help. A teacher by inclination I have always felt obligated to share what I have learned with others.

*Jeff*, thanks. You are no slouch at woodworking yourself. Your router table is a beautiful job.

*Chuck*, thanks. I liked the posting of your daughter's jewelry box. That will hold a lot of jewelry. How did you polish the poly between coats?

*Ellen*, I agree that dividers need to lift out for cleaning. The advantage of this system of gluing them together is that they come in and out of the box as a unit. I am waiting to see what you come up with next. Your last jewelry box was such a departure from your usual designs.

*Dave*, thanks. I learn from doing the postings and replying to the questions people ask. I am a big fan of your veneered tops. They are stunningly beautiful.

*Double D,* thanks. Looking forward to your next turning innovation. Nice job on the resaw jig.

*Smitty,* thanks for the kind words. Hope with the recent warm weather you can use you picnic hamper. The celtic knot turnings still amaze me.

*Doc*, good luck on your major maintenance…you or your machines? Let me know how your box build goes. Put a bit of zen in it. This blog took well over 3 hours to put together. If you know someone in the publishing business…let me know.

*Woody*, you asked about *finding wooden blinds.* A couple of friends enjoy looking for antiques and they have helped me locate some blinds. I have bought some at Goodwill stores, and Habitat recycling centers. If all else fails go to Lowe's or Home Depot. They sell new wooden blinds and sometimes have miscuts on sale. Even at $1.00 each slat you would come out ahead on time and money.

*Al*, good luck on your display project. *You can cut the blinds down to a smaller width* for projects like thimbles. However, be careful which side of the trimmed slat you cut the slots into. Using whole slats you can put either side up. Using trimmed slats you want to put the cut sides down.

*Jerry*, the slats are glued to each other, but are not glued into the box. They can be lifted out as a unit. I may need to amend the tutorial to make that more clear.

*Blackie*, I know the posting is too long, but the two aspects…sizing boxes and using Venetian blinds…seem to all go together. The idea was to give readers a general idea and have details ready when they are ready to apply the ideas specifically.

I agree with you. Quit taking orders for projects. Make what makes you happy out of materials you like. Keep experimenting. Up your price and let customers choose from what you have done. In the long run you and your customers will all be happier.

*Steve*, thanks. Get well. Dream of boxes. When I have been recovering I found that if you can't make them with your hands… you can still make them in your mind and do a rough job of drawing them up so you can remember them for later. Peace and God bless.

*Topa*, thanks. I looked at your last posting. I too made a shoe rack a few years ago. It fits my size 15 tennis shoes, and also has slots for normal sizes for the rest of the family.

*Blackie*, thanks a lot. However, you did the work and so deserve the credit. You have earned it.


----------



## abie

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


TNX TNX TNX TNX TNX TNX 
We all learn more here than we give.. 
with several exceptions
You Andy and others
Thanks again.


----------



## jim65

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Great post AL! Thanks for sharing!!


----------



## Boxguy

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


*Replies:*

*abie*, thanks for the comment and compliment. About this time of year I envy your weather, but then I remember the traffic and get over it. It looks like you have been really busy making boxes. I liked the swivel lids and the Andy art boxes. Nice work.

*Jim65*, thanks, glad I can help you or anyone. I am impressed with the scope of your work…carving, boats, furniture. It was fun looking at your projects.


----------



## drcal

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Great tutorial. I am very impressed with your technique.

Thanks for sharing. 
Carmen


----------



## Kentuk55

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Wow Al! Gr8 box and gr8 pictorial.


----------



## MadJester

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Very nicely done….I've thought about some bigger projects that could use dividers…using the venitian blinds is a great solution…I'll have to start picking some up when I go to estate/yard sales!


----------



## ratchet

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Very innovative. Good tutorial! Thanks


----------



## helluvawreck

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
> 
> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
> 
> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you are going to have some squeeze out with the glue process. I use a small bladed screwdriver and a paper towel to remove the glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
> 
> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


Al, you do wonderful work and are an inspiration to so many people. Thanks for your guidance as always.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## JimInNM

Boxguy said:


> *Making Tea Box Dividers Of Venetian Blinds*
> 
> How do you install a grid work inside a tea box so it looks like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what the lift-out grill work looks like inside the tea box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the lift-out grill work looks like outside of the box.
> 
> The small compartment to the left makes a chain pocket so the stop chain doesn't get tangled with the teabags.
> .
> .
> *Why use Venetian blinds for lift-out dividers?*
> 
> By the time you plane, sand, and finish slats to make dividers inside boxes you have a lot of time and effort invested. Discovering that I could make my dividers out of recycled wooden Venetian blinds took most of the drudgery out of the process of adding dividers to my jewelry and tea boxes. Please don't use the plastic type of blinds. They are not stiff enough and are really ugly in a box.
> 
> A special *thanks to Josh* for helping with the pictures for this tutorial.
> ,
> 
> .
> 
> *Overview:* I will explain the general process in the two languages all Lumber Jocks speak: *words and pictures.*
> 
> First, we'll see how to *build* a box the *right size* to hold teabags, and then we'll see *how to make the grid.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .
> 
> *The Process in Words*
> 
> *Build a box the right size for teabags.*
> 
> *Remove* all the *strings *and metal from a WOODEN Venetian blind.
> 
> *Trim the slats* to fit inside the box. Two for the length and several for the width.
> 
> Use the wooden *teabags to space* the width pieces.
> 
> Use a *compass to space* the length pieces.
> 
> *Cut *all the pieces half way through with a *1/8 inch blade*.
> 
> Put some aluminium *foil in the bottom* of the box.
> 
> *Dry fit *the grid inside the box.
> 
> While the grid is in the box, *remove just one piece.*
> 
> *Apply glue* with a syringe into the half-lap slot and glue the grid together.
> 
> *Wipe* away excess glue.
> 
> Let the glue *set* while grid is *in the box.*
> .
> .
> *The Process in Pictures*
> .
> .
> First you need to make the tea box the *right size*. This method keeps measurements to a minimum. That means there is far less to go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key to making this system work is making some teablocks and having some scrap pieces of Venetian blind. Here I have organized seven blocks and some blind scraps in their own small cherry box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 6 or 7 wooden blocks as wide as a teabag and a little taller. I am going to call these *"teablocks"* in the rest of this tutorial. You are going to use these for the layout of both your box and your grid work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the layout for the box. Before you do anything plane down a board to about 5/8 of an inch. Add the bottom groove for the bottom board of the box.
> 
> Cut two small slices from the actual board you are going to use and place them on the outside of the layout. Then place some scrap 1/8 inch pieces of Venetian blind between the tea blocks. Three of these scrap pieces between gives plenty of room for teabags to slide into the compartments easily. Add a small scrap to use to space out for the chain pocket. You can see that spacing on the left.
> 
> If you squeeze all these parts together you can measure from end to end and it should give you the exact size for the boards you need to make the *front and back* of the box. *Don't fight this.* If it is close, round up to the nearest 1/4 inch. You can always make your chain pocket a little larger. If you make your tea box too small and the teabags don't fit…then you have a problem. *Round up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the depth of the box any size, but if it is less than 6 inches it tends to get tippy when you open the lid. Too much over 8 inches wide and it is getting to be a really big teabox.
> .
> .
> 
> *Summary so far:*
> 
> We have the the width and depth measurement for our box. So 2 times the width plus 2 times the length makes the length of the board we need. Lets say it is 8 1/2 inches long and 7 inches wide. We would need a board (2×8 1/2 + 2×7=17+14=31) 31 inches long. *Add 1 inch for the cross cuts* you will make on the board and you now need a board 32 inches long. If your board is slightly less, make your box a bit more narrow. If your board is much too short, start over with the layout and take out one or two teablocks.
> To figure out the height of the box, set a teablock on the top of your groove for the bottom board and measure where you want to put the groove for the top of the box. *Remember: You will need some extra room inside the box. The inside front of the hinged box will hang up on the top of the teabags as the lid closes if you don't have that extra 3/4 of an inch or so of room.* When you cut the lid off this box, use a slat plus at least a quarter of an inch to mark a line for your saw cut to slice the top off.
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> *So you have a box the right size, how about the lift out dividers?* This system makes the dividers into a unit, but the whole unit can be lifted out of the box if the buyer wants to re-purpose the box.
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> Cut away any slots or notches in the blinds so you don't accidentally put them in your work.
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> Re-assemble the teablocks and spacers inside the box.
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> Make sure your slat is squared. Hold the slat across the inside of the box and mark the end.
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> Fit the slat into the box. Don't make it so tight that you can't get the grid work in and out of the box.
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> Here is a short cut. Make the second slat the same size by putting the ends even, laying it on top of the slat you want to cut, and then bumping the top board on the blade of the chop saw while the bottom board slides under. Without removing the top board, cut the bottom board. If you take the top board off, you are going to move something.
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> Okay, we now have the two long slats cut to the correct length. Now, put a small pencil mark on the slat where it crosses the middle of the three spacers between the teablocks. This is to mark where you want the dividers to cross inside the box.
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> Mark and cut the shorter cross pieces to length. Don't fit them too tightly.
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> Tape your two long pieces together. Tape all of your short pieces together making sure all the ends are even.
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> A compass is a quick and easy way to be sure your compartments inside the box are all the same size. On the top slat of your taped up short pieces, just step off three equal steps and adjust the compass until they are equal. When you have it right just bear down on your points and make some small dents that will show you where to cut your half slots.
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> Since I know my slats are 2 inches wide, I keep a small spacer in my teablock kit. The spacer is one inch wide plus a 32nd. *With the saw turned off and unplugged*, bring your spacer next to the saw blade and *carefully* use your fingers to tell you when the top of the spacer is even with the top of the blade.
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> Set your miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade. Being very careful to keep your fingers well away from the blade, cut the slots at your compass indents in the short pieces. Don't drag the slats back through your blade. Make the cut and lift your work away before you pull it back. With a *single pass* you will get just the right width and will have a nice tight fit. *Hint: You want to cut very slightly past the halfway point of your slat width.* This extra space makes sure your pieces will all fit flat on the bottom of your box and it gives the extra glue a place to go.
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> Now use this same technique to make the half lap cuts in your longer slats. This time cutting where you marked the lines using the re-assembled teablocks.
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> *I didn't picture this step,* but usually I put a piece of aluminium foil in the bottom of the box to protect the finish from glue squeeze out. The foil doesn't have to fit tightly around the whole bottom, it only has to be under the places where the slats cross.
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> Dry fit your slats inside your box. Make sure they don't fit too tightly. *Hint*: I find it is easier to first put the long slats inside with the slots facing upward. The I can fit the short slats in quickly since I am just aligning two slots.
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> You can use a glue bottle, but I have found this is a great time to use a glue syringe. It allows you to put the glue where you want it and not make a complete mess of it.
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> This is another reason to put the short pieces in with the slots down. You can remove just one slat from your dry fit and leave the rest of the slats in place while you apply the glue.
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> I use a thick glue so it doesn't run. Apply just a little glue on both sides of the slot. It really doesn't take much.
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> When you re-insert the short piece, be sure you push it down all the way so it touches the bottom.
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> Since slats are prefinished, you are bound to have some slight chip out with your cuts even with the best and sharpest blades. Little things make a difference in your work. The big box store sell furniture markers that are made much like a magic marker or felt tipped pen. They come an an assortment of colors. It is easy to match these to your slat color and just take a minute or two to color any chips.
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> Probably no one will care but me, still I take a little time to color the ends of the slats and apply one quick coat of finish to them when I am working on the next box.
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> *Leave the grid work inside the box until the glue sets.* That way you can be sure it will fit the box.
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> *Ta-Da! * You now have the right sized box and a grid that separates the tea box into several neat compartments. Once it is glued, assembled, and set inside the box it is surprisingly strong and durable though it is made of fragile material.


WOW what a great tutorial. For newbies this is a short road to success. Thanks for taking all that time and all the photos, no doubt about how to do everything…..


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