# Almost Magical



## SawdustAndAnIPA (Jul 23, 2013)

Thanks for providing the review and use of the Miter Lock Bit. I was given this bit by my Father last year when I started my shop. I have never figured out how to use it. This will be alot of help in my next set of drawers. I also appreciate the input regarding Rockler's bits. I have been looking for a line (for those special one-off bits) that are quality but cheaper than Whiteside or Freud.

Thanks again and keep on making dust!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I've heard lock miter bits can be fussy to set up….

Did you find that to be so? Any tips to getting it right quickly?


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Looks like a "keeper" for sure…


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Matt
I found the setup pretty easy. I just eyeballed the fence and bit height settings. After the first test piece, I was 1/16" off. If there is a small ridge on the underside of your workpiece, start with a fence adjustment. Adjust the fence so it cuts a sharp edge, but doesn't make your workpiece narrower. 
Then make small bit height adjustments until the miter aligns at the outside corner. Start out with the top of the bit 1/16" above your stock.

Remember you only have to do this once. Then make a setup block for future reference.

I have used alternate methods in the past, such as mitered corners with biscuits for reinforcement. Unless you can get clamps along the entire jointline, you wind up using a nail gun to close the joint. With the locking miter bit, the joint needs minimal clamping, and no brad nails.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

+10! Thanks, I've been looking at doing locked miters since I have a number of shaker boxes to do and all of them need a miter… and I'm crappy at doing miters


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## bygrace (Jan 3, 2013)

Thanks for the useful info. I'm adding that to my list of "things I really need!" Several projects it will be useful on.


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## cutworm (Oct 2, 2010)

Thanks for the review.


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## josh87 (Aug 12, 2013)

that is awesome..i need one for sure


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

If you have issues setting this bit up, rockler sells a setup block for this bit. This month in the flyer, you can get this bit and I think the setup block is free.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

Good review….


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Gotta like it when the piece fit together!!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Been wanting one of these for a long time but was put off a bit by people who said they were difficult to set up, thanks for the review and I have no more reservations.


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## freidasdad (Mar 22, 2010)

Couldn't agree more. I have this bit with the set up block and it makes perfect, strong miters. I really love mine.


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## MarkTheFiddler (May 29, 2012)

That rocks! It's on my list. Ty for the review!


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## Jofa (May 14, 2013)

Oooh definitely considering this one.

Any thoughts on how a 1/4" roundover would look on that joint?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

No problems with roundovers on a lock miter joint. The joint looks good with an eased joint or a roundover.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

There are several different brands that make these bits , I have the MCLS bit with a setup block and still need to practice with it to get the setup just right for a rather tall Urn box I am making. The MCLS web site has avideo on setting up and useing the bit that should elp if you want to use one , also I have heard several people say that useing a zero clearance fence for it helps to prevent the snipe some people get.
Doing a Google search for *45 degree lock miter set up* will come up with a lot of links to setup instructions and videos.


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## Woodlocker02 (Aug 22, 2013)

Yes they include a set up block-BUT the stock you set up to must be exactly the same thickness as the set up block or you are back to wandering around aimlessly looking for "correct" and missing it every time. 
The Groove Center by Valfor Tools (www.valfortools.com, reviewed in this blog) is actually the only tool that is a real solution: it calculates (for lack of a better term) the precise centering on the particular stock you are using. You can plane solid stock to the same thickness as your plywood and you will be spot on. Many if not most woodworkers do not realize that plywood has a wide variation of thickness even in the same sheet. Not enough variation to be a big deal, but enough to throw off the fit of almost every lock miter and dado. 
Set up blocks only work on exact 3/4" thick stock, the GrooveCenter doesn't care what the thickness is, it works every time.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Good to know. For myself, I didn't need a setup block or a centering tool. Within 5 minutes I was making tight fitting joints. My stock was hardwood, coming off a planer with a 3/4" thickness stop. So once I made my own setup block, the router table settings are the same for every project.

Thanks for the info.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

We used it at the plant once and didn't like it. Maybe I need to look at it again. Thanks.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## philphoto (Jan 11, 2010)

The locking miter is a great joint but hard to set up-even with set up blocks. Even with good set up blocks, you must have all the wood planed to exact matching thickness-the same thickness as the set up blocks-or your joint will be off regardless of the blocks. That is why I went to the Valfor tools Groove Center, to set up my lock miters. Yes it is a bunch of money-$200, but thickness does not matter. Mid project design changes are no problem, changes in stock-even sheet goods vary enough to make you pull hair. The Valfor sets up the lock miter based on the thickness of *your* wood, not the thickness of your set up blocks. I just got tired of losing time and wood trying to hit the sweet spot and never being really happy with the result. I think the lock miter is worth the effort to use-double the glue surface-and holds the wood in place through all the seasonal changes. I just suggest looking at Valfor Tools Groove Center for set up tool for lock miter bits. It has been a real frustration reducer.


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## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

Congratulations on getting this joint to fit so tightly. I'm impressed that you were able to so quickly set it up just by "eyeballing" it.

Years ago I bought a Jesada Lock Miter Jr. bit (cuts 3/8" to 11/16" thick stock). I had so much trouble setting it up that I just did not use it. Recently I found and bought a jig sold by Infinity Tools called the Lock Miter Master. This little $30 jig helped me to get the right bit height and fence alignment to cut decent lock miter joints. I still have a little slop where it interlocks (~1/64") but the outside and inside corners fit nice. I'm envious that you are able to get a joint that stays together with a friction fit. I'm still trying to get that airtight joint with no gaps.

I've found that zero clearance around the bit helps. I made a couple sacrificial sub-fences for my router fence and slid them together as the bit was spinning. I also made and use the "right angle fixture" from the Lee Valley web site http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=51601.

I really like this bit. I like that it self-aligns which makes it much easier to glue up. I think if I decide to buy the bit that works with thicker stock I'll check out the Rockler bit.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Bill, 
Good tip on the zero clearance fence. I like that idea. 
One thing that makes glueup easier is if you make the same cut on both edges of one board. In other words mill both edges of one board flat to the router table. Then mill both edges of the mating board against the router fence. That way you only have to clamp in one direction to close the joints.
The first time I used it, I alternated the cuts and I had to empty my clamp rack to get the joints to close.


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## GeneR (Feb 3, 2013)

Strange I bought this same bit and even the set up block that they sell and cannot get this to work properly to save my life it gets horrible tear out especially on end grain and generally does not make clean cuts. It would probably be much better as a quadra cut type bit where it has 4 blades taking less material off more often to achieve a better cut. I personally would have given it a 2 star rating.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Gene, I think the key is to cut the locking miter in multiple passes. By adding a spacer to the fence, you can sneak up on the cut in multiple passes. It is a large bit, and there is a misconception that you need to hog the cut out in a single pass.

It is similar to dovetail bits - if you cut a sliding dovetail slot in one pass it is difficult to cut. However if you remove some of the waste with a straight bit, and finish with the dovetail bit it is a much easier cut to make.

I hope your luck improves with the bit.


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