# Works for me



## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Lumber Rack*

I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.

I've decided to start with my lumber rack. Those of you who've taken a look at my workshop will have already seen a picture of it at a distance. Here's how it looks a little closer.










My shop walls are constructed of drywall on 2" x 4" wood studs. Knowing the lumber I was storing would be pretty heavy at times, I knew it was important to hit as closely as possible to the center of the studs with the supporting lag bolts. To make certain I did, I located the studs as well as I could with a stud-finder - then searched for the stud edges with a 1/8" masonry bit. Once I'd found the center, I patched the small holes in the drywall.

In case you can't tell from the photo, the dark strip against the wall is 1/4" tempered hardboard. While I knew it wouldn't help a lot, I wanted something to at least partially distribute the load if a bracket began to fail and pivot. Besides, I thought they looked good.










The photo above shows a close-up of the 1-1/2" x 3" pine vertical 'standards', and the horizontal brackets. The center of the bracket is also cut from 1-1/2" pine, and is 1-1/2" high at the outer end, and 6" high where it bears against the face of the standard. The outer two layers of the bracket were cut from 3/4" Sandeply which are glued and screwed to the pine center. I used the screws mainly to serve as a way to clamp while the glue dried - and the Sandeply mostly because at the time it was cheap and didn't have voids. As you see, the outer pieces extend past each face of the standards, and are fastened to it with through bolts. The brackets extend 16" beyond the face of the standards

I used 3/4" x 8' MDF shelves so that each shelf could accommodate short pieces as well as long pieces of lumber. I also covered the strips between the standards with the same material to avoid small pieces falling through.

I've often had over a thousand pounds of lumber on the rack, and even though it's been up over five years, it shows no sign of cracking, or yielding.

Works for me!


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## Norv (Jan 27, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


Too much lumber,,,you need projects!

It matters not who they are, your the one that matters


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


Great job on your shelfs, very good way to store your wood.


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave

Thank you for the info on the lumber rack. When I buy hard wood now I always get more than I need to get a better price break and have stock on hand. I have been stacking it in the basement but need to get it on a rack so I can store more and have more room. Great blog! Thanks for posting.

God Bless
tom

NORV: I thought this was a project? I always thought it was better to over build than under build something like this. Like Dave implied to each his own! LOL


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## RvK (Nov 22, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


That looks damn solid and damn good


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


Nicely done Dave, great stock to have on hand and a solid looking unit…thanks for sharing…Blkcherry


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


Good rack


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


That is a nice lumber rack. It looks solid and well built.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Lumber Rack*
> 
> I learned a long time ago that there are many ways to do just about anything imaginable. Some work better than others - but the main thing is that they do the job. I've decided to write a brief blog from time to time describing something that's 'worked for me' in my shop. If you have a better idea - that's great! If you can glean something from my idea that you can use, that's great, too.
> 
> ...


Greetings Dave:.. Stellar job on the lumber rack….. solid…..clean design, and put together to last. If it works for you, then that's all that matters. I like it. It also looks like you have a few cutting boards glued up on the 3rd shelf, and ready to start processing… is that right, or am I seeing things? Keep on keeping on…... later.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*One-hand Dust Gate*

A tip I submitted for improving the operation of metal dust gates was published in Popular Woodworking a year or so ago. They have given me permission to post this tip for the benefit of those who might not have seen it before.

This tip allows you to avoid having to use two hands to position and secure a standard metal dust gate. The concept is to hold the gate in any desired position with rare earth magnets rather than with the small screw included with the gate.

There are two ways to go about this.

The simplest way is to remove the small bolt and locate a couple of large earth magnets on the gate housing so that it will hold the gate in any position. Directly opposite the bolt location works well, as does a pair on either side of the small bolt hole. Wherever they are put, they should lie flat against the surface of the housing.

A little more complicated way - but the one I prefer - is to use a single, smaller magnet set into a hole drilled into the housing somewhere near the center-line of the sliding gate. The old bolt location works fine, but anywhere along that line works well. I use a 1/4" x 1/8" or 1/4" x 1/4" magnet in a slightly oversized hole - letting the magnet slide directly against the steel gate. One disadvantage of this method is the blackish wear-line created by the gate sliding against the magnet as shown in the photo. I believe a small piece of 'slick strip' would avoid that problem - but from my experience I believe it's more cosmetic than significant. To avoid damaging the sliding gate, this method requires dismantling the gate. I found that to have a side benefit since these mass-produced gates often have burrs on the steel sliding gate and casting imperfections that prevent the gate from sliding smoothly. With the gate disassembled, it's a simple matter to clean those up.

In addition to the magnet, you'll see in the following photo that I've added a simple wooden pull. That makes it easier to grip, and it also helps avoid static shocks in cold weather. Finally, I've equipped all my gates with a micro-switch operated system to the dust collector on and off as the gate is opened and closed. This has saved me many a step. I was a bit pessimistic as to how well these tiny switches would hold up, but I've had the system in for several years without a problem. The micro-switch system can be obtained through Penn State Industries, and possibly from other suppliers.

This one really works for me!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *One-hand Dust Gate*
> 
> A tip I submitted for improving the operation of metal dust gates was published in Popular Woodworking a year or so ago. They have given me permission to post this tip for the benefit of those who might not have seen it before.
> 
> ...


Interesting Idea


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## mmh (Mar 17, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *One-hand Dust Gate*
> 
> A tip I submitted for improving the operation of metal dust gates was published in Popular Woodworking a year or so ago. They have given me permission to post this tip for the benefit of those who might not have seen it before.
> 
> ...


Looks like it works. They make a similar product for aquaculture called knife gates: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/804/Knife-Gate-Valves-1-1-2-to-8/valve/1


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *One-hand Dust Gate*
> 
> A tip I submitted for improving the operation of metal dust gates was published in Popular Woodworking a year or so ago. They have given me permission to post this tip for the benefit of those who might not have seen it before.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips Dave. Looks like they would do the job very well. Thanks for posting.

God Bless
tom


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## RouterManiac (Jun 1, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *One-hand Dust Gate*
> 
> A tip I submitted for improving the operation of metal dust gates was published in Popular Woodworking a year or so ago. They have given me permission to post this tip for the benefit of those who might not have seen it before.
> 
> ...


Makes you wonder why no one ever incorporated that into their production of the dust gates. Very cool.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Mounting Pegboard*

This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.

I've always enjoyed having most of my tools on pegboards where I could find them. I used to find it annoying, though, when the 'hole' I wanted to use for a 'hook' was blocked by mounting strips. I tried using spacing washers made for pegboard mounting, but they didn't make the board stiff enough and it was a pain in the neck to align them with studs. That led me to come up with the following configuration for mounting strips.










First I cut the 3/4" x 1-1/2" strips with a dado blade as shown. Then I locate the studs and use that spacing to fasten the strips vertically to the back of the pegboard using round-head screws between the pegboard holes as shown below. Then I use square drive trim screws (through the pegboard holes) and the 'U-shaped' slot to fasten the assembly to the studs. (Since strips can be used as shown or reversed, the U-shaped slot can always be over a stud on one side of the other of the round head screw.)










See! I told you - more time than sense! But at least now every single hole in the board will accept a hook, and that means in a 4' x 8' board I've re-claimed almost 400 holes. Sure, I've wasted a little time - but what the heck, I'm retired.


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## bigfish_95008 (Nov 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


What a great solution. Now I just need to get hooks that don't lift out every time I reach for a tool.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Great idea, maybe I can reclaim some of my holes. Why do we have to get old to get smart?


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## HanselCJ (Feb 11, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Great, now i have to take my current pegboard down and completely redo it. Thanks for the genius idea!

-Chase


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


*bigfish*
I saw an article somewhere and it demonstated making wooden tool holders, and attaching the wooden pieces to the pegboard with L bolts screwed into the wood. He claimed these never came out of the pegboard. I haven't tried it but I am going to.

I like pegboard, but I like the idea of making my own tool holders to go on the pegboard even better.

*Dave*
Nice idea for saving pegboard holes…..........


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Nice idea….


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## HallTree (Feb 1, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Good idea. Also, buy a package of those little plastic strips to keep the peg board hooks from coming out with the tool when you reach for it.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


I'm glad this idea appeals to several of you. I came up with it a number of years ago, and have used it ever since. It sounds like a lot of trouble, but it's really not. I keep a short cut off piece (the pictured one) for setting up my blades the next time I need some.

Jim - I think I saw the same article about shop-made hooks, and made a couple to test. They work fine, but it's important to run either a small roundover or chamfer along the top inside edge in order for the finished hook to sit snugly against the pegboard. Another thing about those I made was that I wanted a sturdy hook and the only larger-diameter 'L-hooks' I found were too long on the end that goes behind the pegboard. I just whacked those off with a Dremel tool.

My favorite hooks (although a bit expensive), are called Talon hooks (http://www.talonhooks.com/). Being plastic, they don't damage tools, they're sturdy, and they stay in place without any additional parts. They come with a 'locking screw' that I normally don't use - since backing them out for future changes is pretty iffy and having spread the lock hook, it makes removal of the hook body more difficult. Even without the screw problem, getting the locking hook out of the pegboard can be a little tough occasionally, but I haven't found it to be a major problem.

I've also used the little plastic retainer strips mentioned by Ron. I don't like them nearly as well as the Talons, but they do work - and when combined with metal hooks they are certainly less expensive.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Great idea Dave. I need to now rework my pegboards. Thanks for the info about the Talon hooks also. I remember seeing something about the Talon hook a good while back but I couldn't remember what they were called. I am going to go to their website and order some. I have been using those standard metal pegboard hooks with the plastic clips. I don't particularly like them. 
I switched my pegboard a while back to the heavy duty plactic pegboard and I like it very much. The Talon hooks would be a good match with this.
As far as your statement about some thinking it might be a lot of trouble…well I believe that anything I do in my workshop is only "fun" and never could be considered a lot of trouble.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


*Dave*

You belong in Alaska. I just made a couple of posts to dbHost's blog item http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/blog/13796 where my last statement was:

..........it's the Alaskan Duct Tape and bailing wire mentality, fused with the Alaskan 'more firepower is better' mentality…..(-:

You'd fit right in up here.

Seriously, I plan to redo all the cabinets in my shop, think I alluded to that before, and peg board will be used in the cabinets, my current thinking. I like to plan for change and versatility. So I am going to approach this issue with some energy, and maybe we can converse along the way. I want a generally applicable solution to the pegboard limitations that is robust (pegs don't come out when you remove a tool, and I am not limited by commercially available pegboard hook options), and yet maintains the versatility inherent in the peg board system. I am thinking that shop made pegboard appliances, preferably from wood, with a dependable pegboard attachment system is the answer. I was hoping that the L bolt was the answer. It may be, but you have made it suspect.

So I will work on it, not soon most likely, but eventually.

Thanks again for sharing your wisdom and experience…

Alasaka Jim


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave

I have my peg boards up but have not hung any tools on them yet. At least I got part of it right. I bought talonhooks to use on my peg boards but no dodoed strips. Good thing I am retired so I have time to redo them. Thanks for the tip.

God Bless
tom


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


A great idea Dave. It's worth taking the time to solve peevish problems, especially for things used on a daily basis.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Mounting Pegboard*
> 
> This should prove beyond all doubt that at least one retiree (this one) has more time than sense.
> 
> ...


Before I go 'off the charts' I wanted to thank those who took the time to read this blog. I hope any of you who try this idea will find it as useful as I have. One last thing about the groove locations. It's obvious that the center to center spacing of the grooves (or dados) must match the center to center spacing of the holes in the board. What might not be quite as obvious is that the centerline of the inside (U-shaped) slot should be the same distance from the uncut edge of the wood strip as the distance from the edge of the pegboard to the centerline of the first row of holes.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*

When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.










The rack's not elegant, and it's certainly not pretty - but then neither are pipe clamps. The main thing is - it works! As you see, I used short lengths of heavy duty steel wall standards and 12" brackets from H.D. The 1-1/4" holes were drilled before I cut the boards in half and grooved the bottoms to fit snugly on the brackets as shown below. Right now, only friction holds the wood in place, and I don't think it will need anything else. If it does, I'll add a screw through the hole in the bracket.










While I was taking the photos of the rack, I decided to include this last photo that shows loosely-fitted blocks I made from some scraps. I keep these on my pipe clamps, and I find them especially useful to keep the clamps from tipping when I'm clamping a narrow glue-up using a longer clamp.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


very good idea….it looks good to me…very organized and functional…maybe you should submit it to a magazine..i saw one that said they paid a 100 bucks if they use your idea…...it was handyman magazine…near the back ..just a thought…grizzman


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


great idea
thank´s for sharing
but it looks a little 
dangerus to have
those things over
head level


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


You said …"The rack's not elegant, and it's certainly not pretty - but then neither are pipe clamps"...
Well, I have to disagree.. I always think all woodworkers tools and things in our shops are works of art…at least in my eyes. 
Innovative and practical. Good idea…


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Great job but very heavy load on small brackets.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Good Job Dave O


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## RvK (Nov 22, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Neat idea, you get +1 cookies


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## branch (Oct 6, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


hi nice and tidy the rack dose it job very well what a lot of clamps did you ever have to use all the clamps on the one project if not maybe i could borrow some of them

branch ok


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the nice comments - and special thanks to those concerned about my continued health. Actually, pipe clamps feel a lot heavier than they are. These three-foot clamps (as near as I can tell) weigh somewhere around six to seven pounds each. At seven pounds, the four on a pair of brackets would weigh 28 pounds - say 30 pounds including the brackets. Each bracket would then only be supporting about 15 pounds. That's a very light load for these heavy duty double brackets. If the rack were fully loaded with all three foot clamps, the total clamp on each standard would still be well under fifty pounds each - still very light. In my case, there is continuous solid wood behind each standard their entire length, and each is anchored with two 3" long #12 screws. I hope that eases your mind some - but if someday you read in my obit that I got hit in the head by pipe clamps - feel free to say "I told you so!"

By the way, if you'll look at the 2nd and 6th photos of my workshop, you'll see the same type standards and brackets that I installed to hold up some seldom used tools on 16" brackets. Notice the scroll saw. I'm not sure what that darn thing weighs - but it's really heavy. Before putting that up, I did quite a bit of research and load testing. No sign of stress in either standards or brackets.

Now - with that said - I hope no one reading this blog will rush out and put a lot of weight on who knows what kind of brackets and standards without first being darn sure it's safe - especially over your head - without making absolutely sure it's safe.


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## KMJohnsonow (Feb 16, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Good job.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Too many clamps, branch? Nonsense! - never too many. Here's why I have as many as I do. I started with four 60" clamps. I needed that length for the base of my workbench. Then that length began to really be awkward to use - so I cut each one into a 36" and a 24". Hence the shorter pipe on top. Then as I got into gluing the top of my seven-foot long bench I needed more - so I got another four. With four clamps below and three above - that leaves me one I can lend you. Drop by anytime.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


good work


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## williams (Feb 21, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Who makes those pipe clamps and do you like them. Do the faces stay at 90 under pressure or deflect? Can you crank them when on the table without hitting bench? tia


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## cbMerlin (Jan 13, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Nice job Dave and thank you very much for making my similar pipe clamp rack look like crap! LOL. I used a similar idea for my bar clamps as well, cut a quick dado to fit the bars. Mine are the single slot variety standards & brackets and have shown no sign of deflection from the wall or brackets although I may just change to the double for added safety. I like the "scrap" blocks you added to keep the clamps from tipping during use as well! Also the tips you've put on the pipes. Are those plastic plumbing parts or cane tips? Those would have saved me a lot of grief. I bumped a clamp against a project once and caused a problem, I think these would have saved me. Great idea!


----------



## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Horizontal Pipe Clamp Rack*
> 
> When you need pipe clamps, they're great, and they need to be handy - but when you need them only occasionally, they can really get in the way! Hanging them vertically works well provided you have a vertical space available. Unfortunately, I didn't, so yesterday's project was a horizontal rack hung near the ceiling.
> 
> ...


Thanks once again, all. Here are a couple of answers to above questions.

William - the clamps I have are from Rockler. I like them because they do have a better and taller base that allows them the handles to turn free of the table. They have optional black protective pads I use, and they also have a built-in 'lip' for hanging that would have eliminated the need for the rack if I'd had a vertical space available. As far as deflection is concerned, that would be more of a function of the strength of the pipe and the amount of pressure applied. My clamps are for 3/4" pipe, and I've had no problem in that regard.

cbMerlin - As long as your rack suits your purposes, that's the main thing. The tip blocks work great, and were born of frustration. I'm not sure which pipe 'tips' you noticed. If black - they are crutch tips, and I like them the best. They do a good job, and are softer and easier to remove when necessary than the white ones I got earlier. Those are are threaded PVC pipe caps.


----------



## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*

This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.










The body of the sled is 3/4" MDF, and the fence and stop are made from scraps of Phenolic-faced plywood. The anchor bolt for the adjustable stop fastens into a barrel bolt in the fence. Tracks are standard Tee tracks, and the miter slot runner is high molecular weight polyethylene. I use the two holes in the body of the sled to hang it on the base of my bandsaw.

The woodworking clubs I belong to encourage members to make and contribute toys for disadvantaged children each Christmas. Combined, each year the two clubs usually give between 500 and 1,000 toys of all descriptions year to various agencies for distribution. My contribution is usually a number of racers I designed several years ago. The two-color body shown resulted from using pre-glued, scrap cutoffs from a water ski company. I drill a shallow hole on each side in which I glue numbers printed from my computer and cut out with a 1" scrap-booking paper punch. The slight depression helps keep busy little fingers from peeling off the numbers. Often, when I make one for a relative or some other child I know, I use small photos of the recipient instead of numbers, to personalize the racer. The design is a quick build, and the kids seem to really enjoy them.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


dave these are a cool toy..i might even enjoy a track with a few of these…


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


nice jig ,

and a great ride !


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## RvK (Nov 22, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


cool


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## unisaw2 (Feb 2, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


Dave, nice build. Thanks for reminding us that sleds are not just for the table saw. Thanks for posting.


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


You can never have to many jigs, this is a nice addition to the band saw and well made, thanks for sharing…BC


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## jm82435 (Feb 26, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


i could use one of those… thanks.


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## davemurray (Nov 15, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


I like that jig. Hope you don't mind if I borrow your idea. Thanks!


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Adjustable Bandsaw Sled*
> 
> This adjustable bandsaw sled works on the same principle as a taper sled for a table saw. I initially designed it for quick and accurate repetitive cuts on the toy racer shown below, but it works great for any kind of angled cuts on the bandsaw. I believe it will also work well for shorter tapered legs, although I haven't tried it for that yet.
> 
> ...


I just made one of these for my table saw. It never occurred to me to make one for the band saw. Thanks for the good idea.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Blade Cleaning*

This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.

For any of you who don't have a favorite blade cleaner - and for those who want to try something different, here's a suggestion. The product I've used for years is "Lestoil Grease & Stain Remover" (a product of the Clorox Company). Some of you old-timers like me may remember their advertising jingle from years ago - "It's so easy when you use Lestoil". Incidentally, this is not my idea. I read about it years ago when one of the magazines (I think it was "Fine Woodworking") evaluated a number of proprietary products made for blade cleaning, together with other common products used for that purpose. One of the most interesting things in the article was that some commonly used products aren't all that good for blades and/or teeth.

Anyway, Lestoil doesn't harm blades or teeth, is much milder than some of the products, can be flushed down the drain, and is inexpensive (on line, I've seen it listed for $4.99 for 28 ounces). I pay a bit more buy it from one of the local chain hardware stores. You may or may not be able to find it in your locale, but you can always order it online. Incidentally, speaking of inexpensive, if you're really frugal you can even strain Lestoil and return it to the bottle for re-use.

I use a shallow, flat-bottomed, plastic pan I got at an automotive store, and a round, nylon-bristle brush with a handle. Several times I've immersed the blade in Lestoil, let it soak for a few minutes, then used the brush to get off the residue. More recently, though, I simply put the dry blade in the pan, pour a small amount of Lestoil on the top surface, spread it around with the brush, let it soak a minute or so, and then go to work with the brush. Lestoil that gets pushed off the top by the brush works on the bottom of the blade while I work on the top. I clean the top, flip the blade over, wash and dry it, and in a few minutes I'm finished. If there's printing on the blade, some or all of it may come off during the cleaning process, but otherwise, the blade will look like new.

I don't wear gloves when using Lestoil, but it is a concentrated cleaner and some of you may have more sensitive skin than me. If you try it, use your own judgment about that. If you do, let me know how it works for you.


----------



## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


Interesting coincidence - The subject of blade cleaning was a hot topic at our last woodworkers club meeting. The consensus there was for Easy-Off oven cleaner. Personally, I always thought that was too harsh, especially for one who has their own septic tank (like me). I had not thought of Lestoil. Thanks for the post.


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## araldite (Jan 29, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


It's one of those things so easy to try, why not?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


Another "OhByTheWay…."

When swapping out for my dado set, yesterday, I was looking for a convenient spot to set my regular blade.

Turns out … the lid to my 5gal bucket … is a *perfect* fit.

Makes me think it might be another option (besides Frisbees!) for blade cleaning. It's a *little* shallow, but … I'm sure it would work.

And … we all have 'em … if only we can find 'em


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


Interesting, I will certainly consider Lestoil when I need to purchase some more cleaner. Right now I have some stuff that came with my saw top protectant and it seems to work ok. I have seen the use of oven cleaner…but feel it is too corrosive for my tastes…and the fumes are dangerous also. I have used a lemon cleaner with medium success….it is not aggressive enough. I have also heard of folks using simple green with some success….I feel that those are only as good as the brush and amount of elbow grease you use.

Thanks for the idea though, will watch this blog with interest to see what the consensus is.


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## HallTree (Feb 1, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


Good tip Dave.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


Just send a few gallons to Norway.Lol


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


Les I will have to chime in on Lestoil as well, its been a stable of my family cleaning supplies for over 30 plus years. This stuff has so many uses it incredible. Pre-soaker for grass stain, tar stain, engine grease, oil, wine stain, as a degresser around the stove, & oven. But you my friend have come up with a new one a blade cleaner isn't that just great. thanks for the tip …BC


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## oldhickory (Jan 9, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Blade Cleaning*
> 
> This morning I cleaned one of my table saw blades, so I decided to write a little blog about it.
> 
> ...


for 10" blades i turn a 5 gal bucket upside down the blade fit perfect spray a little oven cleaner on it let sit for a bit spray off with water hose wipe dry and put away so far no harm to blades


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*

As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.

I'm sure most of you keep all your tool manuals and parts lists. I do too, but when I needed to refresh my memory about something covered in the manual - or wanted to look up a part number - I found digging it out of the file, using it, and putting it back was more time consuming than I wanted it to be. Now I keep all that information in my computer in PDF format.

To make it convenient, I created a folder on my computer desktop named "Tool Manuals". In that folder I've downloaded the tool manuals and parts lists for all of my major tools - as well as many others - from the manufacturer's website. It cost nothing but a little time, and now I have them all in a readily accessible place.

If I need a page of the manual or parts list in the shop, I print it out. Then, if it gets torn or dirty, I haven't messed up my hard copy. When I need to order a part, I bring the parts list up on the screen, grab the phone and order it. Over the past couple of years I've really found this method useful.

My PDF reader is by a company called "Foxit". Their free version works very fast and well, but by paying a small fee, the upgrade comes with a couple of functions I've found very useful. One is a typewriter function that lets me insert any notes or other information I wish in the manuals and parts lists (such as telephone numbers, contact person, order date, etc.). Another is a 'snapshot' feature that lets me select and print any part of a page I want - at any scale. I'm sure many other readers have similar functions.

If this has any appeal to you, give it a try. I think you'll like it.


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## JimNEB (Dec 31, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


Great idea…


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


That is a very good idea. I keep all of my owner manuals in a portable plastic file hanging box to keep them portable and together…but having them on the computer sounds even better.


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## jm82435 (Feb 26, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


I sooo agree. I hate looking for hard copies of anything. Great tip. thanks.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


Got iTunes? it's for Mac and Windows. Most people use it for their music these days and it's free on Apples website. But since Apple sells music, books, movies, etc. iTunes will accept and catalog and play just about anything. Make a new folder (playlist) in itunes. Name it Woodworking pdf's then drag all your pdf's into it. itunes will catalog them for you and when you ask it to play them it will 'play' the pdf in whatever pdf viewer you have built into your computer. On a Mac it comes up in about 2 seconds in Apple's preview. On a PC it might be adobe reader or something else.

A good place to keep all your stuff.


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


Another great idea. Thank you!

God Bless
tom


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


went paperless years ago. here's a tip, back up your hard drive regularly on an xternal hard drive. they are cheap these days and real cheap insurance against data loss. otherwise all those .pdf files will go poof. and not to fear, your hard drive will fail, sooner or later, usually sooner (2 to 4 years). a real bummer if you like all your digital pictures, music, pdfs, etc.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


Good point about the backups, David. I do exactly that - having been down the road you describe twice.


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## 559dustdesigns (Sep 23, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


Wow, that's a very organized way to keep information. Thank you Dave for this procedure.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


Speaking of backups. If anyone is using a Mac. Get a big hard drive and use the built in Time Machine that's part of the OS. Automatic, you can't tell it's happening, instant backups of anything new to your computer and you can go back in time at any point and make your computer look like it did at that point. Even if you trashed a bunch of files they will still be there as if you were looking at your computer screen from two years ago. Nothing ever goes away. And, it doesn't fill up the external hard drive much over time. I don't know how they do it, compression or something but they do. An amazing feature.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


thank´s for sharing those tips
they are great

Dennis


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tool Manuals and Parts Lists*
> 
> As I was reading SPalm's post about PDF files, it reminded me of something I do that might be of use to some of you.
> 
> ...


I do the same - but on top of that. I don't actually keep the documents on my local harddrive, but keep them online. I personally use Apples' .Mac service, and also google docs. this way, it's organized, backedup, and I can access it from any computer, at any time, from anyplace I'm at.


----------



## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Poorly connecting vacuum fittings*

Here's this morning's quickie tip. I bought vacuum hoses, fittings, extension tubing, adapters, etc. from a variety of sources over the years. Unfortunately, manufacturing differences often prevent a good connection, and the result is annoying accidental disconnects while vacuuming the floor - or some other operation. In my case it's always been because one fitting won't fit sufficiently deep into the other - and/or is too smooth to 'grab' properly. The solution is to carefully 'rough-up' a fitting that's the right size, but too smooth - or re-size one that's too large using sandpaper. In both cases I use care to sand uniformly around the entire perimeter. I use a folded piece of 100 grit sandpaper for both purposes - being careful not to 'undersize' a fitting that's simply too smooth, or to reduce the size of one that's too large until I achieve a good, full, snug fit. In both cases, the texture created by the sandpaper helps avoid the accidental disconnects.


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Poorly connecting vacuum fittings*
> 
> Here's this morning's quickie tip. I bought vacuum hoses, fittings, extension tubing, adapters, etc. from a variety of sources over the years. Unfortunately, manufacturing differences often prevent a good connection, and the result is annoying accidental disconnects while vacuuming the floor - or some other operation. In my case it's always been because one fitting won't fit sufficiently deep into the other - and/or is too smooth to 'grab' properly. The solution is to carefully 'rough-up' a fitting that's the right size, but too smooth - or re-size one that's too large using sandpaper. In both cases I use care to sand uniformly around the entire perimeter. I use a folded piece of 100 grit sandpaper for both purposes - being careful not to 'undersize' a fitting that's simply too smooth, or to reduce the size of one that's too large until I achieve a good, full, snug fit. In both cases, the texture created by the sandpaper helps avoid the accidental disconnects.


I just used your idea of sanding loose fittings on a 4" floor hose that kept slipping out of the connecting adapter. worked great and it is not slipping now. Thanks!


----------



## PineInTheAsh (Jun 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Poorly connecting vacuum fittings*
> 
> Here's this morning's quickie tip. I bought vacuum hoses, fittings, extension tubing, adapters, etc. from a variety of sources over the years. Unfortunately, manufacturing differences often prevent a good connection, and the result is annoying accidental disconnects while vacuuming the floor - or some other operation. In my case it's always been because one fitting won't fit sufficiently deep into the other - and/or is too smooth to 'grab' properly. The solution is to carefully 'rough-up' a fitting that's the right size, but too smooth - or re-size one that's too large using sandpaper. In both cases I use care to sand uniformly around the entire perimeter. I use a folded piece of 100 grit sandpaper for both purposes - being careful not to 'undersize' a fitting that's simply too smooth, or to reduce the size of one that's too large until I achieve a good, full, snug fit. In both cases, the texture created by the sandpaper helps avoid the accidental disconnects.


Love your shop, love your stuff!

You have a good eye for detail.

Many of the LJs here are wonderful though lacking in knowledge and final detail. They think they know. However hey just don't get it wonderfully absent true woodworking art.

Though I would love to have any better woodworker friends.

They are best!

Best,
Peter


----------



## mjacobs (Mar 25, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Poorly connecting vacuum fittings*
> 
> Here's this morning's quickie tip. I bought vacuum hoses, fittings, extension tubing, adapters, etc. from a variety of sources over the years. Unfortunately, manufacturing differences often prevent a good connection, and the result is annoying accidental disconnects while vacuuming the floor - or some other operation. In my case it's always been because one fitting won't fit sufficiently deep into the other - and/or is too smooth to 'grab' properly. The solution is to carefully 'rough-up' a fitting that's the right size, but too smooth - or re-size one that's too large using sandpaper. In both cases I use care to sand uniformly around the entire perimeter. I use a folded piece of 100 grit sandpaper for both purposes - being careful not to 'undersize' a fitting that's simply too smooth, or to reduce the size of one that's too large until I achieve a good, full, snug fit. In both cases, the texture created by the sandpaper helps avoid the accidental disconnects.


Dave thanks for the tip. I was just using duct tape before, but that made changing fittings rather time consuming.
Mark


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Fence Clamps*

One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.

The most common use for fence clamps is to hold a sacrificial fence to another fence - usually a table saw fence. In the photo shown below, the sacrificial MDF fence is being used in conjunction with a set of dado blades - allowing the set to be partially buried in the fence to obtain the rabbet desired. - - - but this is only the beginning of uses.









Dado Setup

In the photo above, notice the shallow rabbet at the top of the sacrificial fence. In the photo that follows, the fence has been flipped upside down to keep thin material like plastic laminate held down while cutting. Also notice that the 'anchor' holes are drilled all the way through the MDF fence. That allows all four edges of a low fence like this to be used for various purposes.









Laminate Cutting Setup

I enjoyed using these clamps so much that I began to look for other uses. The following several photos show how I made a very versatile high fence. First I drill a pair of 2" holes, located so that when the fence is in a vertical position, the bottoms of the holes are in line with the top of my table saw fence. The photos below show the front and back views of a 9-3/4" high fence mounted to the table saw fence.









Front View








Rear View

The 9-3/4" height of the fence shown was determined by setting the distance from the top edge to the top of the hole (as shown in the photo above) to equal the height of my jointer fence. By doing this - and by taking care in the horizontal placement of the holes, I'm not only can use this high fence on the table saw - but also on the jointer, bandsaw, and drill press, as well - all as shown below. Incidentally, I've found 3/4" MDF to be sufficiently stiff as a high fence on all of these tools, but if I ever need a higher or stiffer fence, I will simply make it from two layers rather than one.









High Fence on Jointer








High Fence on Bandsaw








High Fence on Drill Press

To make it easier to clamp the tall fence to the jointer, I glued blocks into the appropriate cavities on the back of the jointer fence. An initial problem I had while making the high fence was the depth of the anchor holes. I didn't have a twist drill bit long, but a sharp 3/8" spade bit worked fine.

Another handy use for the clamps is for stop blocks for any tools needing same. The following photo shows a pair mounted to a shop-made router fence. Like the low fence, I drill these blocks all the way through. The second photo below shows one of these blocks in use as a cutoff spacer I use when making repetitive cuts with the fence as a gauge. This helps prevent a cut piece from pinching between the fence and the blade.









Stops on Router Fence








Cutoff Spacer

I discovered a rather unusual use for these clamps when I needed to cut 8/4 and 10/4 hard maple, rough lumber into strips for my workbench top. Because I was working alone, and the rough lumber had the usual cups, warps, and twists, I was afraid to try ripping the seven foot boards on my table saw. My solution was to cut them on the bandsaw using a sled and a good ripping blade. While trying to decide how to hold the boards in place on the sled, I realized fence clamps could be used for that purpose. I made the sled the same length as the maple lumber (7'-0"), and drilled a horizontal anchor hole in each end of the sled for the clamps - using wedges where needed to hold the board in the correct position throughout the cut. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of the fairly complex sled and in-feed and out-feed set-up, but the 'mock-up' picture below should clear up how I used the clamps. It worked like a charm on all five of the wide maple boards, and I was able to quickly rip the fourteen, arrow-straight strips I needed.









Clamping to a Sled

I hope some of you find this post useful, while at the same time I'm also sure some of you have already come up with additional uses for these clamps. I'd like to hear about them.


----------



## ClayandNancy (Feb 22, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Great ideas! I just put those on my to buy list.


----------



## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the post. I own a couple of these but I have never fully appreciated how many ways they can be used.


----------



## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing, the photos help too.


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## jtetterton (Feb 15, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the excellent ideas!


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Fantastic ideas! I've got a couple of these clamps but I've been woefully under utilizing them! thanks for the tips.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


thank´s for sharing I will remmember this if I have
some powertools one day


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave

Some other great ideas as always. You should send these ideas to Rockler. Thanks for sharing.God Bless
tom


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


*Dave*
Great suggestions. I will throw some of those into my next order from Rockler.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


nice ideas, i have those clamps and only thoght they were for the TS


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## charlie48 (Sep 21, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave, I never imagined so many uses, I put them on my list of tools to get.


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## Edziu (Jan 17, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


HOLY SMOKES! Nice job. I've done the sacrificial fence, and done the stop blocks, but that tall fence on the table saw and jointer- Genius!! Awesome review- thanks.


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## jpwatson (Feb 2, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! You've made a half dozen routine set-up chores easier for me. Great pics, they really made everything clear.


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave! I use mine every once in a while. Now I'll be using them a lot more. The best part is I already own a pair and don't have go buy something.


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## RZH (Nov 20, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Very nice…Thanks!


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## swoper (Jul 28, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Guys give me a break I'm new to woodworking and the pockets are empty, but every time I see something new here that I gotta have it like the fence clamps, how can I keep my sanity?


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing.


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## ABB (Dec 21, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Great idea, thank you for sharing. I been looking at these at Rockler wondering if they would really be that useful-they are!


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## wdwrkr (Mar 8, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Great ideas, and photos too. I have these Rockler clamps and they work very well - surprisingly. I've been somewhat disappointed in the quality of some Rockler-branded products, but these clamps are fabulous - worth every penny.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Very helpful and I'm going to purchase a couple of pairs tonight!

Thanks,
J.C.


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## michaelray (Dec 10, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Great post! I have a couple of these and find them very useful - even more so now that I've read this. Thanks so much for sharing.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


Wow. That high fence idea is so simple, yet brilliant! I had seen these, and thought they'd be useful, but after looking through your examples I think I'm going to order a set very soon.


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## MisipiBob (Jan 17, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps*
> 
> One of the most versatile (and inexpensive) shop accessories I have is fence clamps. I use one or more of them almost daily for a variety of purposes.
> 
> ...


By George, I think you've got it! Dave I thank you for making me my high fence. Use mine for resawing on table saw.

Bro. Bob


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Fence Clamps - Addendum*

My blog, "Works for me #9: Fence Clamps", was about a number of uses I've discovered for fence clamps. Because of the positive responses to that blog, I decided to describe a couple of additional uses I came up with while building a small, portable table for a Bosch Colt trim router. (a blog on the table itself will be posted within a week or so.)
.
The photo shows a portion of the table and the fence to illustrate both ideas. I decided to make a simple. one-piece fence for the table, and one of a pair of MDF auxiliary fences is shown fastened to that fence with the clamps.
.
The second idea is the clamp shown holding the fence to the table. Two 3/8" rare-earth magnets were pressed into a hole in the center of each end to retain the clamps. The magnets avoid the clamps falling out, while making them easy to remove when needed for another purpose.
.


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## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Fence Clamps - Addendum*
> 
> My blog, "Works for me #9: Fence Clamps", was about a number of uses I've discovered for fence clamps. Because of the positive responses to that blog, I decided to describe a couple of additional uses I came up with while building a small, portable table for a Bosch Colt trim router. (a blog on the table itself will be posted within a week or so.)
> .
> ...


Another great idea, Dave. I sure hope Rockler is hooking you up with free fence clamps!!!! I've already bought a couple because of you!


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Drawer Dividers*

Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.

Yesterday at Lowe's, I found 4' x 8' sheets of 1/8" tempered hardboard for $7.00 per sheet, and finally decided to get started on the dividers. The drawer shown below is in a heavy-duty, 10-drawer file cabinet I bought used from a hospital some fourteen years ago. It provides great storage for all types of hardware and other odds and ends.

The toughest part was deciding on compartment size and location. I think this design will work pretty well, but the next one will likely be a different layout. Notice that I put a 1/4" x 2" high strip of wood down each side of the drawer as a runner for a future 2nd level of storage. That might either be a lift-out tray or a half-drawer sliding tray. The divider strips themselves are 1-3/4" high, and are put together with half-laps cut with a 1/8" blade (a perfect fit). I put a couple of scrap pieces of white plastic laminate on the bottom of the drawer to make things easier to see. Everything is only 'snug-fit', and nothing is glued or otherwise fastened.

The 4' x 8' sheet of hardboard will provide enough material for at least seven similar drawers, so at a buck per drawer, it's a pretty cheap organizer.
.


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## PetVet (Nov 7, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


Great idea Dave. I like the used file cabinet, I could use something like that in my cramped garage workshop.
Thanks for posting.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


Not to brag - but I am probably one of the more organized woodworkers on this site. I really do have a "place for everything". Despite that, I still have more "I know it is here somewhere" moments than I care for. I spend way too much of my time looking for where I last set down the tape measure or pencil.

By the way - drawer dividers are nice but I am much more focused on small and medium sized plastic bins. The ones I prefer are stackable or you can mount them on the wall (which is what I prefer).


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


Looks good Dave. Once I get all my storage cabinets built I need to do something like this. I definitely believe in having a place for everything and everything in it's place. Thanks for the inspiration.

God Bless
tom


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## olddutchman (Aug 17, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


I think that it is the best type of storage, You can change the sizes to fit Your needs. I have deeper drawers, and they are next to useless. If You look at most things that You have to find place for, they can be stored in a two in deep drawer.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


*Dave*
Nice work. I am a little like Rich, bins and drawers. I was down at the BORG last weekend and bought 5 new plastic drawer sets, to replace a couple of old, meaning about 30 year old acrylic things, and to mount some new organizers. But occasionally you have a bunch of unique categories with very few items in each. I think this is a good solution.

I am pretty well organized as well. And I see a few items there that I have that I put into the new drawers. However, your drawer dividers take up less wall space, and in my shop, that is at a premium. Screw, nails, bolts, nuts…....they need their own individual slide out box or bin. But for the miscellaneous items, this looks great.

Thanks Dave,

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


*Rich*
You are a man in need of some totes. I have a measurement tote, holds pencils, tape measure, calculator, digitial devieces, compass, box knife, etc. You need some totes. I haul 'em all over the shop. Check out my totes on my blog….......got a number….....


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


*Rich*
Here is the measurement tote blog reference….....
Meaurement Tote

This is the most heavily used object in the shop…...I am constantly accessing tools from this tote, this may be the best shop object I ever built.


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## jm82435 (Feb 26, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


Great Idea. i wish I was this well organized.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Drawer Dividers*
> 
> Since I'm sure most of you are far better organized than me, this quickie shop project will likely be of little interest. In my shop, I'm fortunate to have a lot of drawers, but over the years they've become so cluttered and disorganized that I frequently have one of those, "I know it's here somewhere" moments. Each time I do, I think about making drawer dividers - then I get busy on something else and forget it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments, everyone! This has been a easy and fun 'fill-in' project, and will definitely be a great improvement to my drawer storage.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Everything in its place*

To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
.








.
In this photo, one of the things you can see is the file I use to round the back of the blades. I keep this on the front of the 'belt door' - held in place by a rare-earth magnet pressed into a shallow hole in the wooden back.

The first of the following photos shows a close-up of the front of the cabinet base. This is where I keep a miter gauge and small taper jig. The taper jig is only used on the band saw, and the miter gauge is primarily on the band saw - but also on the router table sitting directly in front of it. The taper jig is supported by simple hooks through holes in the jig - while the miter gauge is held in a wooden 'sheath' as shown in the second photo.
.








.








.
On the top left side of the base, I keep my fence. The first photo below show the fence on its holder - and the second shows a close-up of the holder. To make the fence secure - but easy to lift off, I fashioned a wooden piece to fit the inside of the fence head. A strip of Velcro beneath the strip avoids scratches in the paint.
.








.








.
The magnet on the saw frame shown below holds Allen wrenches and spare center pins for the circle jig shown in the background of the first photo. Since I've been known not to remember to tension the blade - the red and yellow candy-striped 'flag' is a piece of tape-covered Plexiglas that swings down for a reminder when I release the tension.
.








.
The photo below shows a wooden block held to the top of the door covering the belt with a pair of rare-earth magnets. From time to time, I switch between using standard steel blade guides, cool blocks, and a Carter Stabilizer guide. I drilled the block to hold those items not in current use.
.








.
The final photo has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but while I'm writing about the band saw, I thought I'd show it. This is a shop-made bracket I mounted to the back of the band saw frame to secure a 'relocated' dust port. My band saw is one of four tools along this wall that I connect to a single dust piping drop. This 'relocation' makes the band saw connection point at roughly the same height as the other three tools - and eliminates a lot of bending.
.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Everything in its place*
> 
> To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
> .
> ...


I'm with you on this. To the degree possible, I store ever item I use with a particular tool as close to the tool as possible. I really have a "place for everything" in my shop. The challenge is keeping everything in its place.

Few things bug me more than when I use my tape measure at a tool (e.g. miter saw) and then set it down near the tool and half an hour later I can't find the tape measure because it is not in its place. For me, it is things like tape measures, pencils, compasses, small squares, calipers, etc. that cause me the most grief. I've never misplaced my table saw.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Everything in its place*
> 
> To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
> .
> ...


Funny Rich! I've never misplaced my table saw either, but I often accuse my long-dead Grandpa of sneaking in and hiding just about everything else in my shop.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Everything in its place*
> 
> To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
> .
> ...


The only thing I loose is my train of thought.


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Everything in its place*
> 
> To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
> .
> ...


I want to do this but have not got around to doing it yet. Good idea and thanks for the inspiration to get it done.

God Bless
tom


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Everything in its place*
> 
> To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
> .
> ...


thank´s for the reminder …............ now where is my brain I thought I parked it here somewhere

I like your solutions around the bandsaw

Dennis


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Everything in its place*
> 
> To me, good habits are hard to make and easy to break. Years ago, when I would misplace something, my wonderful wife would often chide me with, "If you'd put things in the same place every time, you wouldn't lose them!". My problem was that I had learned she had an uncanny ability to find any misplaced item within minutes of hearing its description - and I came to depend on that. I knew it wouldn't be long before I heard, "Is this what you're looking for?", and of course it would be. If she were still living, I think she'd like knowing I'm trying to follow her advice - even though I'm still not very good at putting things away. I have found, though, that it helps a great deal if I store things near their point of greatest use, and I'll use my band saw as an example.
> .
> ...


Just saw this Dave. Nice storage solution. Easy to reach, but out of the way when not needed.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Tapered Leg Jig*

A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
.








.
This new jig pictured below works for making tapered legs, angle cuts on flat stock, trimming to a particular grain pattern, or for removing bark or other bad edges, as shown in the photos below.
.








.
The photo above shows the jig positioned in the miter track and ready for a tapered leg blank to be clamped. In the foreground is a 'blade-thickness' spacer I'll describe later, and on top of the fence is a trial tapered leg (1-1/2" square at the top and 1-1/8" at the bottom).
.








.
This photo shows a tapered stool leg pattern on which I've trimmed one side. Since the trimming edge of the jig has zero clearance with the blade, aligning the cut is simple.
.








.
Here, I've clamped a board with bark edges, ready to trim off one of those edges
.








.
This photo shows the bottom of the jig, the miter slot runner, the clamps and clamp blocks. The flush, oak 'racing' strip you'll notice is not decorative. It's just one of those things that happens when my hands 'race' ahead of my brain.

The base and adjustable guide were cut from ¾" MDF, the miter slot runner is oak, and all other wood pieces are Honduran mahogany. Stronger and tougher hardwood might have been a better choice for the edges, but I used scrap pieces I had.

I glued the runner for the miter slot into a tight-fitting shallow dado to insure a straight and true runner. The dado was located so that the saw edge of the MDF base would initially be about 3/8" from the blade. After 5/8" wide edge strips were glued to the base, I ran the jig through the saw, using the miter slot runner to guide the jig. The reason for the edge strips is that while MDF makes a good, stable base and angle guide, its edges are easily damaged. To reinforce that somewhat 'iffy' glue joint, I added 3/8" x 2" dowels.

T-tracks are standard aluminum, but because the thin MDF beneath the tracks would provide little anchorage for wood screws, I substituted SS flat-head machine screws and nuts with matching fender washers as shown in the photo of the jig bottom. To make certain the nuts for the track screws don't come loose I used a center-punch on the ends of the machine screws - along with a drop of super glue. I installed three tracks instead of two for those times when additional clamping is required, and when shorter pieces are being cut.

The back end of the stop on the adjustable guide is slotted - allowing the guide to project as much as desired. The stop is secured by a machine screw and a dowel nut.

The 3" x 3" x 1-1/2" blocks fasten to the tracks, lifting the rear of the clamps which allows thicker stock to be clamped with a downward and inward pull towards the angle guide. These blocks also let the clamps clear the wing-nuts that secure the guide to the T-tracks in the base. Incidentally, I also use these blocks for similar purposes in the T-slots on my drill press table.

I'm sure everyone has their own method for tapering legs, but the one I use is to first make tapered cut on two adjacent sides. Then I use the off-cut plus a 'blade-width' spacer strip between the stock and the angle guide for each of the final two cuts. When I have a cut edge against the base, I also use the offcut there as well. This method allows me to make all four tapers without adjusting the guide.

I should note that the only problem with using a 'sled' is that it limits the thickness of the stock. On my 10" table saw, this means a maximum stock thickness of about 2-1/2". For thicker, long pieces a similar jig could be made to use on a well-tuned bandsaw (with a good 'slicing' blade) - or shorter tapered pieces can be cut using my earlier bandsaw jig.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tapered Leg Jig*
> 
> A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
> .
> ...


Hello Dave,
Those are some very nice and well designed jigs. I can tell you put alot of thought into them.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tapered Leg Jig*
> 
> A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
> .
> ...


I like well crafted jigs that inspire me to do great work. Your jigs certainly qualify. I made one myself, and much prefer it to the metal commercial tapering jig that I also own.


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## Rob_n_Wood (Mar 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tapered Leg Jig*
> 
> A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
> .
> ...


Dave you really know how to jig . Well executed and I appreciate the photo's it really helps in understanding
what you have done. Dave what is the over all dimension on your jigs and would you change anything else 
Just looking at them I wouldn't. But if your like me I allways find some little something I would change
Any ways nice job


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tapered Leg Jig*
> 
> A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
> .
> ...


Very, very nice. I can only imagine how nice the projects you complete are when your jigs look this well crafted.


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## SnowFrog (Jun 6, 2011)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tapered Leg Jig*
> 
> A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
> .
> ...


This is a very well thought of jig. I have contemplating something very similar. I have a small shop, with no jointer and had a 5/4 stair thread that I mucked up and could no join together. My solutions were to get a plane (all I have is a #4) or make a jointer jig which looks very much like this. I guess it can be used for many purposes. Anyhow, whatever the purpose that is the best one I have seen.

Congrat. This is now in my favorite.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Tapered Leg Jig*
> 
> A couple of years ago I made a small, adjustable angle jig for my bandsaw. That jig is shown below and described in my blog "Works for me - #5". I've found that jig so useful I decided to make a similar, but larger, version for my table saw.
> .
> ...


My appreciation for the nice comments everyone. Sorry I didn't mention the overall dimension,Rob-n-Wood, it's 10" wide x 36" long, and I think that's going to work pretty well. I'm afraid anything much larger would be pretty heavy and awkward. The first thing I'd want to change would be to 'lose' the 'racing stripe'. If I'd had some 3/4" birch plywood, I might well have used that instead of MDF, since it would have been lighter. With use, I may come up with some other changes, but right now that's about it. One need the jig has emphasized is an off-feed table. I've designed one with an extension of the miter gauge slot, and I hope to start on that soon.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Off-feed table for Jet SuperSaw*

With reluctance, I'll have to admit to being one of those woodworkers whose table saw guard gathers dust on a shelf most of the time. To provide for a guard on my off-feed table for my Jet SuperSaw that meant either having a gap between the rear edge of the saw table and near edge of the off-feed table of about 5-1/4" - or cutting a large gap in the off-feed top itself. I've realized that omitting guard provisions wasn't the brightest idea I ever had, so it's likely that I'll soon grit my teeth and cut the gap.

One of the things I wanted was to have a 'continuation' of the saw's miter gauge slot to help with the alignment and stability of my miter gauge and slot-guided jigs, so I made the slot 'extension' by cutting a dado in a piece of UHMW plastic. To maintain that alignment, I anchored the table to the lower leg of the rear fence guide with two ¼" bolts into dowel-nuts.

In addition to the slot alignment issue, there were several other complications. One was that I need to keep access to the access door and dust collection on the rear of the saw. This is the reason for the open construction which leaves little opportunity for storage. There is, however, room for a couple of thin 'drawers' directly beneath the top for a dado set and a few blades, and I'll be adding that soon.

Even without providing for a guard, I still had to leave about a 3-1/2" gap between the saw and the off-feed table to allow use of my saw fence. Without thinking how little use it would be, I decided to make a 'filler' for the gap as shown in several of the photos. I expect this filler will also gather dust on a shelf most of the time, but since it aligns itself as it drops into place, it will be simple to use if the occasion arises.

The final limiting factor was that I had to leave room for the sliding table on my saw. This left the overall dimension of the table about 32" wide x 24" deep. This is deep enough to keep anything under about five feet from tending to tip, and that's enough for most of my work.

The top is plastic laminate on ¾" MDF; trim is Oak, and the legs are 1" steel pipe (with floor flanges at the top and crutch tips at the floor). 3/4" pipe legs would have been adequate, but the store had none of that size at the time).

This first photo shows the overall table with the gap filler in place.










This one shows the filler removed and the support extending to the saw.










These final two photos show how the extension of the miter gauge slot helps with alignment of my gauge and taper jig.



















Please post any questions or comments.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Off-feed table for Jet SuperSaw*
> 
> With reluctance, I'll have to admit to being one of those woodworkers whose table saw guard gathers dust on a shelf most of the time. To provide for a guard on my off-feed table for my Jet SuperSaw that meant either having a gap between the rear edge of the saw table and near edge of the off-feed table of about 5-1/4" - or cutting a large gap in the off-feed top itself. I've realized that omitting guard provisions wasn't the brightest idea I ever had, so it's likely that I'll soon grit my teeth and cut the gap.
> 
> ...


Hey Dave, this upgrade should serve you well, nice work on the extension and wonderful looking jigs. Stay safe my friend thanks for posting…BC


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

*Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*

I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.

This jig for my band saw was easily made from scraps. It's a little rough - but effective. The base is 1/2" MDF, and the 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 8" long block with the holes, and the miter slot runner are oak. The two photos below show the jig top and bottom. While unlikely that I'll ever need some of the holes, while I was about it, I drilled holes from 1/16" to 3/4" by 1/16" increments. When the jig is pushed down the miter slot, the blade moves through the previously cut center of the block, neatly slicing any inserted dowels. To prevent cutting further and further into the block, I inserted a short length of 1/2" dowel in the top as a stop.

In use, I clamp a stop block thick enough for ejecting the cut dowel to the fence directly beside the blade at the desired dowel length (a pair of stacked ¾" stop blocks works great). A dowel is inserted through an appropriately sized hole until it hits the stop. Then the jig is pushed until the dowel has been cut, and is then pulled back and the cut dowel pushed out of the hole by remaining dowel. I discovered that ejecting the cut off dowel behind the stop block took more time and care. The evenly cut dowels are of uniform length, and the thin blade lets me cut more dowels from each rod.

I've found dowel cutting on the band saw to be both quicker and safer than on a table saw.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


This is a genuinely great idea. Thank you!.

I use dowels quite a bit and I have never been comfortable cutting them on the table saw or miter saw. Too many splinters. The bandsaw gives me a cleaner cut, but I have never been comfortable with the "control issue". This is a great solution.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


I like it

Great design


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## Mickit (Feb 6, 2010)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Definitely going on my 'to do' list. Hope you don't mind…


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Now that's cleaver and useful! Thanks.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


clever idea which has many more uses….thanks.


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## Pdub (Sep 10, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


I don't cut dowels very often, but when I do I have done them on my scroll saw. This will be quicker and cut them straighter. Gonna have to steal your design. Hope ya don't mind. Thanks!!!


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Dave you come up with some great shop tips, I still love the Lestoil cleaning tip for blades and router bits, thanks for sharing your friend in woodworking…Blkcherry


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Thanks to all of you for your responses. It sounds as though some of you may make something similar. I hope you do, and that will let me know your thoughts for improvement. This one was sort of 'down and dirty' - but for now, it suits my purposes.

I'm glad you've found some of my ramblings useful, Black Cherry. Especially coming from someone with your great woodworking skills. I'll be posting a project soon, and a blog that I expect will be more interesting than useful.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this solution to a common problem. If this is 'down and dirty', don't ever scrutinize my jigs too closely! This one looks pretty polished to me. I'll start on mine tomorrow. I think i've already figured out how to cut REALLY short pieces (ones that won't reach the stop block) using this jig. THANKS!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


niiice .... thank´s for sharing

Dennis


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


This is another handy jig, that I could surely put to use, if I can ever take the time to build one. Thanks for all the great ideas on this blog. I think this is the first time I've seen these. Some of these are rather old, so it'll be good to bump them up to the front again.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Hi tenotim - Thanks for taking the time to comment on this jig, as well as on the band saw angle jig. It's always a good feeling to know an idea has some value to someone. One of my earliest posts was about my introduction to wooden quilt squares. In that post I showed the miter jig I used to make a small square - and ultimately larger sized ones shown as shown in my latest project post. In the interim, I have refined that jig and it's 'stops'. With the revised jig, I can set the stops to let me cut all the quilt square pieces without having to reset any stops - and by resetting only the most simple one, also cut all the pieces for tangrams (another old post). I expect to be posting that revised jig within the next few weeks.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 28, 2015)

LakelandDave said:


> *Band Saw Dowel Cut-off jig*
> 
> I frequently I need to cut multiple dowels to a uniform length. Some projects require only a few, while others - like the small race cars I make - require hundreds. In the past, I usually drilled an appropriately sized hole through a block of scrap wood, clamped it to my miter gauge, and rigged a stop block on my table saw fence to gauge the cuts. Although this worked reasonably well, ends were often splintered, and I never seemed to be able to find the block the next time I needed it.
> 
> ...


Was looking for some advice on how to do just this. I made a jig like yours. Works great. Thanks for sharing! 
Mike


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