# Placing MJ Splitter into cast iron??



## frozenfox (Feb 8, 2021)

Hi….So here is my issue….after I create a ZCI…i'm not sure if I will be able to place 2 mj splitters before I reach the cast iron. Has anyone had to drill into cast iron to place a MJ splitter? I don't have a lot of options…or just use one??...(unless someone has a spreader for a Craftsman 113.226682) .


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

why are you placing the spitters so far behind the blade looks like you have plenty of room ?


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## frozenfox (Feb 8, 2021)

> why are you placing the spitters so far behind the blade looks like you have plenty of room ?
> 
> - pottz


thanks!....could very well be my miscalculations….the blade is not at full height in pic. how much room do I need from beginning of ZCI kerf….to last leg of splitter…thoughts?


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

The instructions with the MJ splittter spell out the space requirements. One thing you can do that they mention is not cut the ZCI to full height. You rarely need to cut at full height and if you are cutting 2+" thick lumber I don't think that is the situation where kickback is the most likely (but I could be wrong). In that case use the regular throat plate.

So, if you raise the blade only to say, 1 1/4" you will have more room.

I have not installed my MJ splitter because I have a phenolic ZCI and they recommend only marking the holes with their jig and then drilling in the drill press. My drill press is pretty sloppy, so I don't know that I would get good results.

-Paul


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

id have to measure but ive got mine about two inches in front of the blade when fully raised and it works great.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

I can try to snag a measurement on the minimum clearance/distance I get between the first MJ splitter leg and blade. Regardless of the measurement, Ocelot makes a good point about maybe not raising the blade to full height when cutting through your ZCI.

My current TS is an old cheap Ryobi that was "gifted" to me. Didn't have a splitter, riving knife, or fence. Last year I decided to build a new top for it. Used a sheet of MDF and picked up an MJ splitter. When I cut my throat plate, I made it large enough so that I could flip it. With one zero clearance configured for cuts at roughly half height (around 1.5"). And the other configured for full depth cuts. I can only think of one or two occasions where I've needed to use the side set up for the full blade height. And, frankly, I'd probably cut my half blade height insert at an even shallower depth if I were to do it again.

A single throat plate with two cut configurations might not be feasible for your setup. But, you could always just make two separate inserts.

FWIW, you can run the MJ with just a single splitter if two simply won't fit. I've used just a single one for a few cuts, and it still works pretty well.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

You want to be as close to the blade as possible
One works fine. All that fit on my Ridgid.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I've never used the second one and never felt it was necessary.

The jig will determine the location, basically it's an inch or two so behind the maximum blade height.

@Ocelot I've drill per 2 phenolic inserts by hand and it's worked out fine. Remember the tabs have different offsets.

Note to self - if you stick a think kerf blade in your saw, remember to remove the splitter (dummy).


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

there are two pieces one is intended to stay in the plate and the second is made too pop out if a board pinches cloesed and will ride with the board to prevent kick back.as far as not raising the blade all the way when setting it up i wouldn't do that because if the need arises that you need too you will remove your mounting holes and will have redrill them.there are many time i have had to have the blade fully raised.the best thing just follow the instructions and it will work perfectly.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> there are two pieces one is intended to stay in the plate and the second is made too pop out if a board pinches cloesed and will ride with the board to prevent kick back.as far as not raising the blade all the way when setting it up i wouldn t do that because if the need arises that you need too you will remove your mounting holes and will have redrill them.there are many time i have had to have the blade fully raised.the best thing just follow the instructions and it will work perfectly.
> 
> - pottz


Isn't there a distinction with the components; depending on how the end user sets them up. For instance, I most often run dual, slightly offset, splitters. Where I think you're referring to the kerf keeper setup.

I'm still a proponent for creating multiple throat plates. You have a valid point if one were only using a single plate and configured the splitter/ZCI cut at less than full height. The minute they need to make a cut at full blade height, their splitter holes will be ruined.

Most all of my cuts are at 1.5" or below. So, I really prefer for the MJ splitter to be set up for that configuration. With a second throat plate configured for full depth cuts. But, I realize that may not be feasible for everyone.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I just learned something new today. MJ splitter


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