# It's taking me too long to sharpen my plane irons



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Hi,

New to woodworking here, and very new to hand planes. I bought a couple off eBay that I've gotten into good working order, and I purchased a new Stanley SweetHeart with the A2 iron.

It takes me forever to get these irons sharp! I'm using some DMT Diamond bench stones, and a Veritas Mk II honing jig.

Getting the backs of the planes reliably flat has, in most cases, taken me hours. When doing the primary bevels, I get the burr on the back so I know I'm removing metal, but I can't seem to get these things sharp in a decent amount of time to actually go work on a project!

It's frustrating.

I did buy a DMT extra extra coarse stone in the hopes I can speed up initial bevel formation and back flattening. I also purchased an el cheapo 3000/8000 grit water stone on Amazon.

I don't want to spend more money on sharpening stuff, but with limited free time, I was thinking about getting the Work Sharp WS3000. Something where I can just fire it up, sharpen/hone my iron and go. Maybe I'm being impatient as a novice…

Any advice on what I might be doing wrong, or what I could do differently? Some other type of equipment that might work faster for me?

Thanks,
John


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

John, frustration in sharpening is normal, but hours is not. Maybe recap what you're doing.

- Are you applying water to the DMTs?
- When first applied to the DMT, what are you seeing on the back of the irons? Perfect flat on the whole thing is not required; flat on the leading edge is what's mandatory.
- Are you using the extra coarse and it's still slow, or is that stone still on the way?
- How long does it take to get the primary bevel? 
- Proceeding through the grits from there shouldn't take more than 20 minutes.

Let us know.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Once you have the basic equipment, sharpening is no longer about those. Any system (oil stones, water stones, scary sharp, diamond plate or machines) can get planes and chisels sharp and all can fail to get them sharp, as well, if not used correctly. It sounds like you have enough equipment to get you going, so then it boils down to technique, process and habits.

A couple things to add to Smitty's points.


 Flattening backs can take a while, depending on how out they were and what grits you start on
 Once the back is flat (at least the 1/2in or so by the cutting edge) you don't have to do it again
 A2 steel is a bear to sharpen, but does hold an edge for quite a while. It's a trade-off vs O1. O1 is easier to sharpen, but you will be sharpening more often.
 Is there someone in your area that can help. Maybe a sharpening demo at a local Woodcraft store or something?

You are definitely not alone in the frustration. At my last woodworker's guild meeting, one of the guys brought up sharpening as something they would like to learn better and about half the group started nodding their heads. Next thing you know, I look over at the guy sitting next to me and he is writing my name down to do a sharpening presentation at next month's meeting!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Here's a snippet from a blog entry showing the back of my No. 78's iron. I stopped flattening at picture time.



> First step was to check the iron. I bought the plane probably more than a year ago and my sharpening skills have improved since then, so it was a natural place to start because "sharp fixes everything" and I'm going to be cutting across the grain… The back had to be flattened, but fortunately for me it was concave in the right way. A bit of work through the DMTs had it looking a bit weird, but good.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

It seems like we have thousand different ways to sharpen keep trying you'll find a setup that works for you.
Some of my projects I spend as much time sharpening as I do with the plane in my hands. But it's a whole new side of woodworking when you build something start to finish without using sandpaper.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Thanks for the replies!

My current DMT stones are extra coarse (they consider it to be like a 220 grit which I never thought was coarse), a coarse, a fine, and an extra fine (1200 grit). I ordered their Extra Extra coarse which is supposed to be like a 120 grit. That will get here Friday.

I spritz water on the stones, rub them back and forth until I get a gray swarth, wipe them with an old rag, and repeat. When they stay grayish, I use a Hi Polymer eraser on the stone surface to clean them up (I saw Tommy Mack do that and it works).

All the irons have a primary bevel of about 25 degrees. Since they're new to me, I thought I'd clean up the bevel and flatten the backs.

With the back, I only flatten about 1/4" back. On the corners, on all irons, I have spots that don't look like they've been touched! And when I use my jig, often times a new primary bevel begins to form, and it's often not straight either. I keep checking the jig but it all looks fine…


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> It seems like we have thousand different ways to sharpen keep trying you ll find a setup that works for you.
> Some of my projects I spend as much time sharpening as I do with the plane in my hands. But it s a whole new side of woodworking when you build something start to finish without using sandpaper.
> 
> - Aj2


Exactly why I started looking into hand planes. I'm making a little end table out of 2×4's (did I mention I'm a beginner?) and I sanded the top and bottom of the table top. It was noisy, dusty, time-consuming and tedious. I wondered what woodworkers did prior to sanders, and voila! Here I am!


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Most of us plane lovers have a similar story. The nice part is that the first time you get everything working right, hear that "shhhhhick" of a well tuned plane, see gossamer shavings and the surface that results, you'll be hooked.

Can you take some close up pics of the cutting edge of the irons (front and back) and post them? That may help people identify something that could going on and how to help.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I flatten things on 80 grit sandpaper glued to my tablesaw wing, then when it's flat, polish to whatever level I want. My way only takes minutes.


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## ErichK (Aug 1, 2016)

I went through a similar path to you. I started with "scary sharp" followed by trying to use some stones, and flattening/setting bevels took FOREVER. I never really got plane irons/chisels sharp enough, because I would just give up before they were done.

SO, I grabbed a Worksharp 3000. I spent an evening sharpening my chisels and plane irons, and was done! I now have VERY sharp chisels and plane irons.

I personally have a feeling that if you start with an iron that already has a good primary bevel, you can sharpen it in 10 minutes like many seem to. However, if you're like me and put your collection together with vintage store finds and ebay junk, setting that primary bevel would otherwise be a MASSIVE undertaking.

That said, with the Worksharp you will go through A LOT of coarse sandpaper. Setting primary bevels on some of my blades would go through the lower grits at a 1:1 ratio. Prepare to spend a ton of money on coarse paper when you're getting started!


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

If you are using DMT plates, might try half water and half Simple green. This mixture prevents "rust" on the plates.
Steel particles left on the plates will appear as rust in 24 hours.

Abrasive materials are denoted differently in different country they are not the same.
DMT plates are rated in microns (1 micron = .001mm).

120 grit in the US is not the same as 120 grit in Briton or elsewhere.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I will try the diluted Simple Green. I noticed one of the stones had what appeared to be rust on it which I didn't think was possible so soon.

I had also heard of a person who used Windex with his diamond stones. Same reason?


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I would like to suggest that you don't try to handplane a surface that has been touched with sandpaper.
Sometimes the grit from the paper will drop down in the pore.Its a hassle trying to plane wood with sand in it.And very frustrating.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

I've also got an extra coarse DMT stone, use it primarily for flattening water stones. Every now and then I'll use it on a bevel, but if a back needs a lot of work I do not start with that. It would take forever. I start with 60 grit sandpaper stuck to a piece of polished granite. Then 80 or 120, then the DMT stone, then the 1K water stone. This should not take hours, or one hour, or even half an hour.

I'm not a fan of diamond stones. The only reason I own one is for flattening. I know some people hate the work/mess of water stones but I don't mind, and the fast sharpening makes up for it. Again, this is just me. Everyone has their system and you do what's best for you.

When it comes to flattening backs - I hate it! Not a strong dislike. It's a real hate. That's why I start at 60 grit sandpaper. Get this crap over with.

Good luck, keep trying methods. You'll get it.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Atoma plates
DMT eh, I love Atoma plates more
Japanese water stones ( a Nagura stone creates a slurry on 6K & 8K stones)
Then strop with Green honing compound and lately I've been finishing with a polishing compound Flexcut Gold

The results should be a razor edge in the first picture. Process should be quick.

Funny but true:
When it comes to flattening backs - I hate it! Not a strong dislike. It's a real hate. That's why I start at 60 grit sandpaper. Get this crap over with.
Thanks for the Laugh Colonel Travis


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

From reading your OP I think you should determine whether you have some blades there that are not the best quality or have been mistreated in some way. I've bought old Stanley planes with blades that were so warped they were basically unusable. This can be determined quite easily by observing the scratch pattern. If the bottom of the blade is convex, its a hopeless situation. I've heard reports of talented people using strategically placed hits with a peen hammer to correct, but I've never tried this.

If this is the case, you may want to give some thought to a iron/cap upgrade such as Veritas, or even WoodRiver. You will also find a thicker iron is much easier to register on the stone due to the wider bevel surface.

So on the sharpening in general, if you're getting a burr you are on the right track. I would recommend you abandon honing on the primary bevel and hone to a secondary (or micro) bevel instead. This will do two things: decrease your honing time immensely & create a stronger edge. It is quite easy to do, just find the primary bevel and pick up a degree or so. I hollow grind all my irons and chisels I find this makes sharpening easier, too.

The most likely issue with a beginner doing freehand is technique. One of those is not locking the wrists and "un" sharpening what's already sharp due do variations in the honing angle.

You may want to consider a simple jig (I recommend the Eclipse=type) to get you started and create some muscle memory.

You also need to keep the waterstones perfectly flat. You can use your XX coarse diamond plate for this.

Finally, I always finish my honing with 10-12 moderately firm strokes on a leather strop.

In no time at all, you'll be doing quite well. With practice you will be able to rehone and be back to work in less than 2 minutes.

Hope this helps.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I 3rd the hating of flattening backs.


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## BLarge (Aug 29, 2011)

> Hi,
> 
> New to woodworking here, and very new to hand planes. I bought a couple off eBay that I ve gotten into good working order, and I purchased a new Stanley SweetHeart with the A2 iron.
> 
> ...


Hollow grind your bevel…. a new edge should take no more than a minute.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I appreciate the tips. I'm going to double check the backs of some of these blades to see if they're convex or not.

Hollow grinding is generally done on a bench grinder, correct? and then the leading edge of the bevel is given the 25, 20, whatever degree bevel?

Most of my plane acquisitions have been old eBay finds, so maybe the irons and/or chip breakers are out of whack. They seem pretty good compared to the POS Kobalt bench plane I bought at Lowe's last year. It was like the Elephant Man of planes: everything was skewed.

That one is now residing at the local dump.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Here's an example of my flattening the back of an old Stanley from eBay.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I'm one of those that would put a piece of wood on the flattened part and hit it until it's closer. I don't peen it on the back because I worry about dings that would take forever to get out. So I hit it where it needs it with a block of wood.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Yep, that's the opposite of what you want. Like fridge says, whack it with a hammer and the end of a block of wood to get it concave.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

So, place a piece of wood on the opposite, or bevel side, with the back facing down and smack it with a hammer?

After some work on the stone I did get it uniformly 'polished'. Do I still need to physically straighten it out?


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## BLarge (Aug 29, 2011)

> I appreciate the tips. I m going to double check the backs of some of these blades to see if they re convex or not.
> 
> Hollow grinding is generally done on a bench grinder, correct? and then the leading edge of the bevel is given the 25, 20, whatever degree bevel?
> 
> ...


Correct, a slower speed bench grinder with a cup of water close at hand to cool off the blade between passes. Then your bevel is 1/16 of an inch or smaller, much less work on plates, stones, etc. be careful to hollow grind and still keep the iron square, so light passes and keep checking.

Also, if you are new to planes, pony up and get a Lie Nielsen or Veritas #5, or better yet the 62 to start with. Lie Nielsen while the initial purchase is higher, the irons are dead on flat, the plane is heavy duty and finely machined- you will be having fun making shaving rather than trying to restore a plane that unless you know what your looking for is probably going to be a headache for beginners. The 62 is 249 dollars, and for 50 extra bucks you can get another iron for end grain or shooting. I love my 62, it's simple to use, simple to sharpen, it's my preferred plane for stock removal down to prepping surfaces for sanding.

Once you master sharpening and technique, you can expand your collection and buy fixers uppers, then you will intuitively know how to fix them up, and when they are working correctly.

Others might disagree, but buying an almost perfect out of the box Jack, Block and set of 1/4- 1" chisels from LN or Veritas is worth every penny if you really love this craft. They're the basics, so I recommend getting good ones.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

The nice thing about flattening the back of a plane or chisel is that you only need to do it once. As others have mentioned; it sucks and is tedious. I start with 60 grit sandpaper on a granite tile for the initial flattening and primary bevel…starting with 220 grit especially on an A2 blade would take forever.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

"Others might disagree, but buying an almost perfect out of the box Jack, Block and set of 1/4- 1" chisels from LN or Veritas is worth every penny if you really love this craft. They're the basics, so I recommend getting good ones."

Very good advice ^.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Flattening the back of a plane iron..? I cheat, of course. Since I use a Veritas MK1 honing guide for use on stones…however, for those really bad irons, I sit a beltsander in the bench's leg vise, with the top handle in the vise…

I can run the belt away from me, using fingertips to tell me when to dunk into the cup of water. once a decent bevel is done, then a couple stones, then wet&dry paper up to 2500 grit..

Now, about cheating on flattening the back. Since the edge of the belt comes right to the edge of the sander, I press the back down on the moving belt from the side of the sander. Fingertip as a heat gauge, cup of water handy. Takes maybe 2-5 minutes, tops. Then, at each step along the way with the bevel, I will run the back as well.

Lastly, I have an old, leather work belt ( used it for my nail bag rig) and a stick of the Green Polish…..20 strokes on the bevel, using a pull stroke. Then 3-5 quick pulls for the back of the iron. repeat as needed…

Start to finsh…maybe an hour, usually way less…...


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> The most likely issue with a beginner doing freehand is technique. One of those is not locking the wrists and "un" sharpening what s already sharp due do variations in the honing angle.
> 
> You may want to consider a simple jig (I recommend the Eclipse=type) to get you started and create some muscle memory.
> 
> - rwe2156


You cannot "lock" the hand to get flat bevel no matter how experienced you are. But that is not required. A freehand honed iron has a slightly convex bevel, which works the sane as the second microbevel when using guides. On contrary you should rock the iron when you are honing it. Paul Sellers has a very nice video about it.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Flattening the backs of irons is right up there with setting jointer knives for me. A royal pain. The WS will help you reshape bevels and flatten the backs of irons but in my experience, it wont get you as sharp as you truly need to be. I like my WS for getting nicks out of irons and regrinding bevels but when I'm looking to get paper slicing sharp I take it to the wet stone. 4000/8000 Norton is my choice.

If the back is way out of flat bandit's got the move. Clamp a belt sander in your vice and go to town while keeping some water nearby for a quench.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

Years ago i bought a few used planes and began tuning them up. The plane irons were the tough part, so finally I just replaced them with Hock irons. The OP might be wise to take my approach.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Here is a tip.

I find that being able to see the edge under magnification is a great help. I wear a cheap old Harbor Freight 2X magnifying visor and examine the edge periodically while sharpening. View the edge straight on under a strong light. An unsharp edge will appear as a streak of reflected light. A really sharp edge will reflect no light. You can also see problems VERY well as you go so you can correct them.

Planeman


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Proof that my way works?









When a 100 yr old plane, with a 100 yr iron can do this much work in about an hour's time. In fact the iron in the Stanley #6c is original, as is the one in the Stanley #5c. The jack plane is "only" 70 or so years old, though

So much for the "Need a new iron" theory. 









#6c Curlies, from a bit of jointer work…









The irons seem to be easier to sharpen, for me…


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

One year I bought some blades from David Finck they really need a lot of work on the bevel and backs.
He showed me a good way of bearing down on the back.With and short piece of wood hold it across the top and bear down on the bevel.Just have to make sure you Diamond plate or stone stays flat.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> The most likely issue with a beginner doing freehand is technique. One of those is not locking the wrists and "un" sharpening what s already sharp due do variations in the honing angle.
> 
> You may want to consider a simple jig (I recommend the Eclipse=type) to get you started and create some muscle memory.
> 
> ...


I would suggest you can because I do it all the time. It is achieved by moving the points of motion to the shoulders and body. A free hand iron does not have a concave bevel unless you create it. One way to keep the bevel flat is to skew the blade or even sharpen with the bevel at 90° to the stone. You will see many masters, e.g. Frank Klauzs sharpen this way.

I suggest it is MORE difficult, not less, to deliberately create a concave bevel without ruining the tool, especially a chisel.

WADR to Paul Sellers, who I love, I put this in the same category has his "sharpen to 600 grit" concept. It may work for him, but I've tried both ideas and they are not for me.

I totally disagree with the concave bevel for a number of reasons.

1. I increases the effective bevel angle, possibly up to 70 or even 80° depending on how much it is dubbed. This may be a desired effect for a bevel up plane iron, but is very UNdesirable for a chisel. I challenge you to try your chisel vs. a hollow ground chisel sharpened to 20° on softwoods. You will quickly see my point which extends to a 30° standard bevel in hardwood.

2. A concave bevel face magnifies the wedge effect that any chisel creates.

3. A simple understanding of mechanics the edge cannot ever be as sharp as hollow ground + 2° bevel.

I challenge you be open enough to hollow grind a chisel and hone a microbevel. I guarantee you'll be shocked at the difference in performance and sharpness.

Another test is end grain paring.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I considered going with a new hand plane but the cost up front was prohibitive. With that said, I've been trying different methods of cleaning up my eBay specials.

I bought a WWII era Stanley No. 5. I really like it and got it to work pretty well with the original blade. But me being me, when I noticed some rust on the side of the sole, I dismantled the thing and soaked it in CLR.

I pulled it out tonight, scrubbed it with a stiff copper brush, and literally before my eyes a coffee colored staining occurred on the bare metal! I scrubbed it off and it literally reappeared in seconds. I was shocked that oxidization (I assume) was occurring that fast.

I slathered it with paste wax, and am now just wait to see where I go next.

Right now, I'm feeling as though I should have taken up knitting instead of woodworking!


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I'm sure your not the only one who's felt that way.Thats probably how the plane sock was invented.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Also why Paul Sellers has that can with an oily rag in it…

Wax for the soles, like a candle rubbed across it a few times…..oil lightly everywhere else, as in wipe on, wipe off.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I have tried to delete this pic because for the life of me, my pics all post sideways. I even took this in landscape mode. Anyway, I use a Veritas Mk II jig to sharpen my plane irons. The dark bit is where I swiped a permenant marker across the bevel. It's always that side that remains untouched. I've tried to gently and slightly tighten the brass knobs in an alternating fashion, but still no love. Any thoughts?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Put a square on it after you tighten it up on your jig.










Happens to me as well and I check and recheck for square as I sharpen.
The darker portion on the chisel was out of square, no problem, tap it back in square 
and put a razor edge on it.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

I picked up a 1750 rpm motor for about $10. Mounted it vertical in a mdf box that I made. mounted a mdf disc onto the 3" belt Pulley and then cut a bunch of quick change discs for different grit sandpaper. I use this thing for chisels, plane irons, and drill bits. It's a grind and cool, process, over and over. After I get the bevel reestablished on an old chisel or plane iron and go up through the grits to 600, I then use a diamond plate and then a water stone. One last step is to use a leather strop wheel with the green compound. If I am just touching up a chisel or plane iron, usually just the water stone and then maybe the strop wheel again.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Build this and you will save yourself HOURs of time. FWIW, I turned a couple of handplane totes today out of Honduran Rosewood (heavy/dense & hard). I had to sharpen my 1/2in, 3/4in lather chisels, and my 7/8in roughing gouge to do this. Each tool took me less than a single minute each, to do. I also sharpen handplane cutters as well, though those require much less frequent sharpening.

 
Big Bang For Buck Belt Sharpener


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> I pulled it out tonight, scrubbed it with a stiff copper brush, and literally before my eyes a coffee colored staining occurred on the bare metal! I scrubbed it off and it literally reappeared in seconds. I was shocked that oxidization (I assume) was occurring that fast.
> 
> I slathered it with paste wax, and am now just wait to see where I go next.
> 
> ...


Wow I've never seen rust form before one's eyes…...

You sure its rust?

I would buff it out with 400-600 grit wet or dry + WD40. When done clean it up with more WD40 then wipe down with Jotoba or Camella oil.

The best way to control rust is to prevent it. If possible, store your hand tools in climate controlled conditions. If this is not possible, you can build a cabinet with seals on the doors or use a sealable plastic storage bin and keep a bucket of Damp Rid inside. Camphor cubes also work.

I do not wax any tools or machines because 1) wax does not displace moisture, and 2) wax will trap moisture underneath. Bottom line: wax will NOT prevent rust.

Some will argue the point, but I know its true because I've had cast iron machine beds rust under thick coats of wax. It all depends on how humid the environment is. Wax is great to make a surface slippery but that's about all (IMHO).

BTW a very nice plane without breaking the bank is WoodRiver #4. I think they go for around $150.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

If I can get a pic uploaded from my phone without it going sideways I can show you the patina (?) the sole now has. Would a wipe down with a thin film of WD-40 on the sole work or would it discolor the wood?


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Be patient brother. It took me at least 5 years to settle in on a sharpening routine that works for me. Youre learning by working out the variables one at a time. Every tool and every skill has its quirks to work out. Ohhhmmmmmmm. Lol.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Here's a couple pics of my newly yellowed plane sole. When I had it it was a bright silver. I lapped it successfully, and then decided to soak it in CLR for a couple days to remove rust. When I pulled it out of the CLR and scrubbed it, it literally turned this color in front of me. I was using a copper bristled brush and a Scotch Brite pad.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

I've read that CLR and cast iron don't mix well. Never tried it but since it's not a method commonly mentioned for hand plane restoration, I've never bothered trying it and I'm guessing this is the reason why.


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## BLarge (Aug 29, 2011)

> I have tried to delete this pic because for the life of me, my pics all post sideways. I even took this in landscape mode. Anyway, I use a Veritas Mk II jig to sharpen my plane irons. The dark bit is where I swiped a permenant marker across the bevel. It s always that side that remains untouched. I ve tried to gently and slightly tighten the brass knobs in an alternating fashion, but still no love. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thoughts:

- too much pressure on one side, the roller on that MK is cambered if I recall…. 
- your iron is not square.
- the MK squares in the jig, so are you pushing your iron out of square after binding down the brass screws
- get a $7 honing guide that clamps the sides of the iron unlike the mK and see if you get a better result.
- cringe if the $7 guide gives you better results


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## BLarge (Aug 29, 2011)

> "Others might disagree, but buying an almost perfect out of the box Jack, Block and set of 1/4- 1" chisels from LN or Veritas is worth every penny if you really love this craft. They're the basics, so I recommend getting good ones."
> 
> Very good advice ^.
> 
> - waho6o9


man, an out of the box Lie Nielsen product is a religious experience… the full price of a set of well made setof basic tools is worth every penny of avoided time wasted and frustration.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> Be patient brother. It took me at least 5 years to settle in on a sharpening routine that works for me. Youre learning by working out the variables one at a time. Every tool and every skill has its quirks to work out. Ohhhmmmmmmm. Lol.
> 
> - chrisstef


I appreciate it! I'm trying to treat my mistakes as learning experiences.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> man, an out of the box Lie Nielsen product is a religious experience… the full price of a set of well made setof basic tools is worth every penny of avoided time wasted and frustration.
> 
> - Logan Windram


Ironically I bought quite a few variations of planes on eBay because I didn't know if I'd really use them. Looking back, I can see how buying a new Lie Nielsen plane would save me aggravation, but I'm pretty well invested in rehabing these old tools now. I can't justify another No. 4 or 5.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

It's strange what some cleaners can do to metals. I metal detect and recently tried cleaning a bunch of quarters, dimes and nickels. I put them in a gallon jug and added some salt and vinegar. Next morning I took a look at them and saw that they were all stained like your plane. I later found that there was a stupid token mixed in with them. That token was a different metal and it leached out into the liquid in the jug and coated every coin in there. What a mess to clean that up. You mentioned a copper brush. Not sure but you may have very lightly coated your plane with copper through a chemical reaction to the copper's exposure to the CLR. Just a guess.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Next time, use a Bronze brush…...then tell everyone it is a LN plane….

IF I use any chemicals at all ( PB Blaster for stubborn bolts) it is a spritz of Simple Green. Otherwise it would be brass wire wheels in the drill press.

usually,unless the plane has been beat to hell and back, I can have a plane rehabbed in maybe an afternoon….sometimes, on the really rusty ones, it might take the entire day..

Take the iron out, lay it on a flat surface. NOT sandpaper. Put a finger on each corner of the iron, and see if it rocks any. No? Flip it over, and try again. IF it rocks either time, it shows where a high spot is in the iron. Too many irons have come through my shop BENT, Usually by someone cranking the lever cap screw down so far, you need a crow bar to lift the lever…..then, they just leave it like that for months, years…...deforms the iron,AND the chipbreaker. Check it as well. Sight down the iron, you may also see that it is curved…..

The ONLY wax I use on a plane, is by rubbing a plain candle across the soles. The sides and other metal, shiny objects get a swipe of 3in1 oil. Then buff the oil off. Cast iron will soak up a few drops of oil.

Here we go:
Really BAD edge on the iron ( like this..~?) I have ajig on the 6" grinder I can set at the angle the bevel needs. I have been known to use the side of the spinning wheel to polish the iron's back.

Not so bad irons: I use a MK1 guide from Veritas. I set the angle using their jig. The beltsander goes into the vise at the bench. I can lock it "ON" with the belt running away from me….usually a well worn 100 grit or higher, ones too worn down to sand wood type of belts. Sander is running, I hold the guide so the roller turns freely on the spinning belt, I have a couple of finger on the iron near the bevel, when the fingers say the iron is too warm, I will dunk the iron in a cup of water. Once a wire edge appears, sander is done, almost. Unplug it.

Oil stone: A 600 grit Medium India. Set it right on the belt of the sander. stone will be at the right height to use. 3in1 oil on the stone. I work the bevel and the back. scratches from the belt are gone..
Wet or Dry paper: I go from 1000 grit up to 2500 grit, both the bevel and the back….iron is still in the honing guide this entire time.

I have an old, leather work belt ( part of one,anyway) that has been well lubed up with the green stick polishing compound. 20-25 strokes on the bevel, and 5 or so on the back. Might repeat a time or too. You pull the iron back to you, as hard and fast as you can, counting the strokes.

Make sure the chipbreaker mates gap-free to the back of the iron, with the edge also polished up.

Put the two together, put them in a plane, and make some shavings. I usually set the chipbreaker about 1mm back from the edge of the iron.


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