# ReJapanning Planes - what do you use?



## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

So I've got a couple planes that I am working on rehabbing/restoring and one or two are missing a lot of japanning (less than 40% remaining). I am not worried about collecting, but rather using. I have seen some people use actual japanning lacquer, but I don't care to spend the time or money on something so specialized (not worried about being super correct). I have a can of black acrylic lacquer floating around, or I could pick up some kind of black paint. So my question to all is what do you use for re-japanning a plane?


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

I really liked the black engine enamel in a spray can. It goes on nice and thick-just follow the directions.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

A lot of folks go with Duplicolor Ford black engine paint, which you can apparently get at auto parts stores, and very closely mimics the look of japaning. I've used Rustoleum hammered black to give it some texture.

For a user, though, you could just brush some shellac over the current finish and metal. That will keep the exposed parts from rusting, and keep oxygen out of the nooks and crannies. The hard part about refinishing the body is stripping the old finish completely. If you've got a media blaster or are set up for electrolysis, that makes it a lot easier. Wire brushing it all off is dusty and messy, and it's hard to get all the corners clean. Paint stripper will eventually work, but that's also messy to clean up.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint and here is my restore blog

If you want traditional japanning, look at jayT's blog http://lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/series/5621


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

Maybe I will just got the shellac route, as I don't feel particularly inclined to sand blast or otherwise get rid of the remaining japanning in the nooks and crannies. I admit it, I'm lazy


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Any kind of spray enamel will work to protect from rust, it just depends on what you want it to look like. As far as stripping the old japanning, a wire brush works great and some aerosol paint strippers will do the job pretty easily and quickly, as well.

There is nothing wrong with a coat of shellac and then use the planes. If you decide to do more of a restoration in the future, you'll have options.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I've been reading a lot on restoring tools, and the only problem with just adding shellac without carefully removing all the rust (which can be under the loose japanning) is the rust will just continue under the shellac. But if it's truly just a user plane and you're not too worried about that, you'll probably protect some areas still.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

years ago, I tryed the original formula with asphaltum and taking the tool to high temperatures, but I can tell you'll never get the same thing….


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I use Rustoleum Ultra 2X Semi-Gloss. Bought it at HD and it has held up well. I stripped everything with an electrolysis bath. Very easy to do and it it will take it all off. found it best to run the 12v charger at 10amps and at least 24hr or more.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Either way you need to remove the rust. You don't want to encapsulate the rust. At least dip it in a rust remover like evapo rust or citric acid.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

+10 on what Don says regarding the rust. Another method you can use if it is just a 'user' is to use RustFree from Boeshield, on the exposed iron. This stuff, while removing the rust, also seems make treated surfaces a bit more resistant to rust in the future. Not completely, but it does seem to stabilize the surface.

http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/ 









*Directions

For light rust on steel or cast iron, spray RustFree™ on a rag and wipe surface. Do not spray directly on surface, as it may cause spotting.

For heavy rust apply RustFree™ thoroughly wetting surface, allow to penetrate for 30 seconds, then scrub with Scotch-Brite pad before wiping off.
Caution
RustFree is acidic and should be used with care:

- Rinse thoroughly off painted surfaces and neutralize with soap and water.
- Do not use on guns or black oxide tools.
- Can dull paint or plastics.
- Can cause spotting on cast iron or steel.*


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

All planes in question have been de-rusted quite well. Just when I thought I would just put some shellac on, Mike goes and posts a picture like that, curse you! Now I might want to do a full blown restore, grrr.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Then if you're on the fence, don't look here

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/35888


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## Benvolio (Feb 10, 2013)

Just out of interest, what method do you guys use to take off the old layer of japanning before applying the new???


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Benvolio-I used a paint stripper from the BORG (Stripeze ?), then did as Mike suggested and gave it a 24-hr electrolysis bath. I did a thorough cleaning, masked the sides and soles, and sprayed with Ford engine enamel.

-Gerry


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

@Benvolio - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Don pretty much covers all bases above. About the only thing I might be able to add is that I have found that an extended electrolysis bath will take everything off if left on long enough AND it is facing the appropriate electrode plate. After all electrolysis does depend on line of sight within the bath, so you may have to rotate/move the pieces once in a while.

Nice blog Don.


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

Crap, Don. I've gone through that whole thread now and am convinced that the #7C needs a restore job, as does the #190. The #5 still has virtually all the japanning still, so it just needs some sanding and it's good to go. Trying to decide if I should remove the remainder of the label on the tote (it's a Type 14 I think), or make a new tote and knob.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'd highly recommend leaving the label, no matter how much is left.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Making a new tote and knob is always a good thing. No one ever says you have to throw away the old ones… Just keep them for anyone with future interest, or who has hang-ups about "replacement" T&Ks on the plane when you get ready to sell the plane.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I agree with Mike


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

Well, a new tote and knob is in order then. Tomorrow I'll go out and see what my lucky candidate woods are. And yes, when I get the restores going, I'll post them to the big thread.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

BTW Don, what is a good source of Rosewood? PSI seems to be out of stock at the moment. And what is a decent price currently?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I buy it local Mike. Its a bit pricey but I really don't use a lot. I make a lot of knob and totes out of alternate woods. I love bloodwood and cherry. Walnut comes out nice to.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Don,
What other woods are "best" for totes? I see where Sargent started using Honduras Mahogany (after VBM era) and that was too soft and led to many cracked/broken totes. FWIW, I want to start with Rosewood in order to be accurate for my earliest Sargent HPs, at least four of them. I was thinking about experimenting with Zebrawood as well. Any advice/input on this?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I really think broken totes has as much to do with set up as wood quality. I understand I've seen more broken rosewood totes than anything else because there are more rosewood totes made, so take that for what its worth. I've got a hunk of zebra wood and been thinking the same thing Mike. My only advice is "that's why we call it experimenting"

Cherry seems to be pretty popular, and so far my bloodwood totes have held up well.

A related note, you'll see many bent tote bolts on planes. The were intentionally bent at the factories to compensate for the change in the angle of the threads. I like to adjust the tote instead, and show how I do it in my blog. Is it better? I don't know, but I would think so.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

"...A related note, you'll see many bent tote bolts on planes. The were intentionally bent at the factories to compensate for the change in the angle of the threads. I like to adjust the tote instead, and show how I do it in my blog. Is it better? I don't know, but I would think so…."

Ah, good to know this.  My Sargents thus far have turned out with 20-degree angles on the totes VS the Stanley tote diagrams on LV that have 27-degrees. My tote thread bolts have also shown to be straight as well. Anyway, I bought some 3/16in bare steel rod at HD and can cut them to 10-24 TPI as/if needed. Didn't like the looks of that zinc-plated all-thread stuff.

Just dropped a C-note at WC online, on enough hardwood to make… (4)Rosewood, (2)Zebrawood, and (2)Walnut totes and knobs. I did call my local WC first but it sounded like their smaller hardwood pieces were NOT organized enough to prevent barrel pilfering in order to find what species and/or size is/was needed. Plus online shipping was cheaper than the gas to drive there and back, also no sales tax charged online.

Hopefully that will keep me busy on my new lathe ** I have turned and shaped one tote and knob out of White Ash thus far and it looks pretty good, though I am still putting several finish coats of MinWax Tung Oil Finish on it to fill in the pores. Stained it with a mixture of Cherry, Walnut, and Golden Oak stain that I had left over from a side board restoration I did earlier. Learned a lesson on this one, and that is to NOT sand too finely before staining, if you want it darker. I have a lighter collored horizontal racing stripe along the narrowest portion of the knob. I'll live with it for a while and/or until I can make more T&Ks *;-)*


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'll be looking forward to seeing those Mike, and let us know how the zebrawood works out.


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