# Titebond Information



## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

I have an unheated shop in New England. In the cold weather, I always do glue-ups in the house. I use Titebond III.

During the Spring and Fall, the temperature is often high enough to glue-up in the shop during the day, but then drops below the recommended temperature at night. In this situation, I haul the piece into the house for the night. I wondered if this is necessary. Using the form at titebond.com, I asked how long after glue-up the temperature is important.

I received an excellent response in just 30 minutes. I thought I would share this information, as well as give a big thumbs-up to the customer service.

Titebond III will not chemically perform at or below its stated Chalk temperature of 47° F. If you reduce the temperature of the wood, glue or room below the chalking temperature, the glue does not coalesce (form a continuous film) on drying. This is evidenced by a dried film which is whiter than normal and looks "chalky." Where the bond is formed at all, the resultant strength of a chalked glue joint is lower than normal and will always remain weak and often times will fail.

In regards to timeframe, the temperature really needs to be maintained for a minimum of 24 hours after glue up. At temperatures closer to the 47° F, you may want to wait 36 hours to be sure the glue has dried completely.


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

Excellent info Chuck. Thanks for posting…..


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## Jeff28078 (Aug 27, 2009)

Good information to know. I'm fortunate that recently, even in the middle of winter, my garage here in North Carolina never drops into the 40's. Summer temperatures are another matter.


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## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

I had a couple of glue failures this winter when the titebond 3 went white quickly. It gets close to zero often, but not really bad this year. I had to increase the temp in my shop and cut back on making big cutting boards. I started to 'whack' the boards on my work bench to get some idea if the glue bond was good! thanks for the info.


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## LukieB (Jan 8, 2012)

Wow, unfortunately I know exactly what they mean by "chalky" white film….hope those joints don't fail. Oh well, too late to do anything about it now.


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## smokey1945 (Feb 20, 2009)

+1 for covering with an electric blanket!


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

That explains why the last two boards I glued onto my workbench came off so easily when I didn't think they glued on correctly. Only took a small chisel and a hammer to seperate them and they came apart at the glue line. All my other projects I glued in the cold but immediately set in the hallway outside my shop door and they bonded strong.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I would recommend you look at using urea glue for winter
glue-ups.

PVA glues are convenient and I use them, but faced with
the threat of joint failure and shuffling work into the house
you are dealing with in the winter I would mostly use 
something else. Weldwood, sold in a powder, has
a very long shelf life and is versatile.


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## Martyroc (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks for posting the info, I knew the cold weather was a factor, I have not had any joints fail so far, (fingers crossed), but there is always a first time. Up here in the north east you never know what winter is going to be, last year was like antartica this year, one snow in October, ( go figure) and 50-70 degrees on and off through Jan- March. I have a heated shop but the cost to heat it up here, I might have to sell a Kidney which only gets me through one winter, LOL.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Good stuff Chuck, thanks


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