# What is your favorite wood finish?



## PineChopper (May 21, 2012)

I was wondering what every one uses for their favorite finish.
I was using Shellac as a sealer when I wanted to paint something.
I like Spar Varnish for a shiney look in the grain.
I used Teak Oil once but that was about 30 years ago.

So I was curious as to what the other LumberJocks use.
Thanks,
PineChopper


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

General Finish's Arm-R-Seal, nothing beats it for ease of use and quality of finish, and it brings out the beauty of the wood.


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

Lacquer, dries fast easy to work with.


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

Waterlox Original Sealer and Finish. It takes awhile to apply but it is tough and looks good.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Shellac is my favorite but varnish is what I use most often, it seems. Shellac isn't the best choice for a lot of stuff…..


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## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

My go to finish is tung oil.

Arm R Seal is a close second.


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## bhog (Jan 13, 2011)

Shellac,tung oil or wiped on poly.For a more durable shellac use a waxy shellac.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

If I'm doing the finishing, I use a water based poly. Otherwise, I take it to my finish guy for pre-cat lacquer. He has a spray booth - I have to spray in my driveway which can get the neighbors kinda excited if it's windy. - lol


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## tyskkvinna (Mar 23, 2010)

Spray lacquer, almost exclusively.


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## WoodworkingGeek (Jan 11, 2011)

My favorite is A boiled linseed oil thinned with mineral sprits. then I apply wax after the linseed oil drys.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Zinsser sealcoat (dewaxed shellac) followed by crystalac super premium.


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## rebelson (Jun 11, 2012)

Wipe-on Poly & Spray Lacquer.


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## joebloe (Feb 13, 2012)

Interior poly ,exterior General finishes outdoor oil.


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## cracknpop (Dec 20, 2011)

I prefer to spray lacquer… fast and easy. Though recently I used tung oil to pop the grain of QS sycamore. After assembly I sprayed lacquer. I may try it again.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Arm R Seal; 1/3 Spar Varnish, 1/3 BLO 1/3 mineral spirits, Watco Danish Oil, wiping Varnish. I dislike lacquer finishes thoroughly.


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## Kelby (Oct 19, 2011)

Home-made Danish Oil. Like Bondo says-1/3 varnish, 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 minersal spirits. Wipe off the excess after 20 minutes on each coat. On the second or third coat, I like to sand with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper with wet-or-dry sandpaper before I wipe the excess, so it is sort of wet-sanded. On subsequent coats, I increase the grit until I get to 1500 or 2000. Each coat dries for a full day, minimum.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pre-catalyzed spray on lacquer for all interior projects.


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## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

a lot of opinion here I simply use the best finish for the job I love to use lacquer it is the finest finish I am curious why anyone would dislike it my guess is they tried it once and didnt have the right tool to apply it. I use the Fuji q3 Hvlp Professional spray rig. I love the little Beatles too and the orange and amber is my favorite it sprays well too I also love the maloof oil and wax it is like the armorseal type of finish. Spar varnish for out door stuff. there are a million ways to do this no need to hate a finish if you know how to use it.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

General finish's Enduro Vanish amazing product and great reviews from the wood working magazines!


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I don't want to hijack this thread, but let me answer the dude. I dislike lacquer finishes because I do not like finishes that sit on the surface of the wood. I prefer a penetrating type of finish that becomes part of the wood surface. I like to be able to feel the wood itself w/o a heavy barrier between the grain and my fingers. I have never applied a lacquer finish and I doubt I ever will because they do not appeal to me. I just don't like the industrial look and feel of lacquer.


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## TedW (May 6, 2012)

I don't have a favorite yet but wipe on satin poly is what I generally fall back on.


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## KenFitz (May 21, 2007)

I guess I have two depending on what I am doing. Shellac and Waterlox seems to cover it for me for just about everything I do. My shaker boxes always get shellac and furniture pieces get Waterlox.


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## EPJartisan (Nov 4, 2009)

I remodeled my whole condo in black cherry… so I got really good at…and I now love as my standard finish for domestic wood stock (not for veneers, or heavy burls, or most dark woods) is many soakings of Danish oil finished with a Varnish/naptha/beeswax top coats. The oil brings out most reflective figures such as fiddle back, quilted, and fire grain. and the varnish top coat seals it to a silky hardness… but none of this works for heavy use items.. like table tops.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Hands down, High Performance Pre-catalyzed Lacquer.
Beautiful results, quick, efficient application.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Urushi.


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## bobsmyuncle (Jan 12, 2011)

Anything but Minwax.

I use lacquers, shellac, waterborne, P&L#38, Waterlox, some oil-varnish mixes,, toners, glazes, and probably more that I can't think of at the moment. The wood, exposure, and desired appearance determine which.

"Friends don't let friends use Minwax."


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

Almost any finish but poly.


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## AKSteve (Feb 4, 2012)

I have been using Teak Oil, I like the sheen it gives, I don't like my wood to have a mirror shine, but a deep rich look to it. I also have been putting some Johnson's paste wax on lately, It doesn't add more shine, just more protection.

With that said, what else is a close match to Teak oil?

I would like to try something different but I don't want a really high gloss.


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

Danish Oil Natural. I like the way it brings out the colour of the wood and it's very easy to use.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

What nobody touting Minwax Polyshades 

I like to spray lacquer or rub on Waterlox original for a more natural/lower sheen finish.


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

2+3 coats BLO let it dry for 2-3 weeks , then finish with 2-3 coats tung oil polished well.


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## olpuppy (Jun 8, 2012)

I have sprayed many gallons of Catilyzed Lacquer. When staining, I mix my own using zylene as a vehicle and Rudd base colors as the agents. I lightly spray the stains and build up a little at a time. Then I spray a fairly heavy coat of lacquer and sand with (believe it or not) 120 to 220 grit paper. The next coat is very smooth and no sanding scratches are apparent. I've done Restaurant tables and Bars using this method. I also build furniture and even podiums this same way.

On Mahogany, I start with a paste filler after sanding to fill the pores.. Then if the project requires it, I stain. Sometimes, especially with Honduras mahogany, no stain is needed.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Pre-cat lacquer (Valspar or ML Campbell).
Poly gives a great exterior finish, ut takes too long to fully dry.


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## JBfromMN (Oct 19, 2010)

BLO thinned with Mineral Spirits. Then Varnish over that if the pieces needs the "Toughness". Paste wax on top of piece with out without the varnish.


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## dkg (Dec 14, 2009)

Conversion varnish. You can spray a thick coat on a vertical surface without worrying about the runs. The whole process of spraying a vinyl sealer and 2 coats of finish can be done in 4 hours or less. I use it on all my flat work and pens, bottle stoppers, pepper and salt mills, etc.


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## Beezle (Jan 22, 2011)

What sort of spraying equipment is used for these catalyzed, pre-cat and conversion varnishes? Can ordinary people obtain these products?


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## dkg (Dec 14, 2009)

For small detail work, I use a Badger air brush with about 45 psi air pressure. For larger projects, I use a quart sprayer that I picked up at Napa. Of course if you live in CA these tools will be a problem, so you have to go with a HVLP system or use a finish that doesn't alert the pollution police. The conversion varnish can be picked up at Sherwin Williams.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I dislike lacquer finishes because I do not like finishes that sit on the surface of the wood.

But your favorite finish is wiping spar varnish? Leaves me puzzled. I realize that cutting it with oil softens the finish but it is still a film finish. If the only lacquer you have experience with is commercial finishes you should try it at least once. Two or three coats provides good protection, a clearer finish than varnish and you can still feel the wood.

My favorites are lacquer or shellac, the latter being much tougher than most people give it credit. Oil and wax on pieces that need little or no protection. I only use varnish/poly/wiping varnish on tops that will receive a lot of wear.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I don't have a favorite! I chose the finish that is best for each project.

If the project is "artistic" I typically use lacquer or Tung oil or Watco ... poly for "high wear" projects … shellac for "kids projects" and for projects that don't fall into one of these categories, all bets are off!

When I lived in Illinois my favorite was the General Finishes sealer/wipe on poly but when I moved to California this specific combination was not available to CA residents. I used that finish on a family room end table some 25 years ago and it looks nearly as good as when I made it! I may have to try some GF finishes again.

*I guess I am fickle when it comes to finishes!*


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