# Pocket hole joinery



## Gerry1942 (Feb 17, 2016)

I use a Kreg jig for all sorts of things. However when it comes to making drawers out of 1/2 " plywood or resawing lumber I jus cannot seem to get good solid joints. I follow the instruction Any suggestions ?


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

You have to be careful in plywood or thin wood. It may just be lack of screw purchase?

I'm not a big fan of pocket hole "joinery" if that's what you want to call it. Lots of guys use them for all kinds of things, but they are not a substitute for joinery in all cases.

My advice is use another type of joinery for drawers you don't want those holes showing anyway.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

Yes. Don't use pocket holes. 

I use the Kreg system for cabinet carcass joinery, but for drawers I'll use
a blind rabbet. You get a nice joint to look at when you open the
drawer and it's much stronger.


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

I made some quick shop drawers with pocket holes to see how well it would work. I drilled the pockets in back and front of drawers so opening/closing was putting shear stress on screws not on threads. Front screws covered with false front so never seen. Rear screws will only be seen if drawer is removed.

It worked fine for shop drawers…


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## JCinVA (Feb 16, 2016)

hotbyte,
I like that idea - what material did you use for the shop drawers?


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

It was 1/2" birch plywood.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I use dado's. Typically half-dadoes for drawer boxes. Really strong and not too complicated.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The drawer lock joint that Troy shows is as simple as it gets, try using it once and you may switch. BTW, I am a fan of pocket holes…just not in this application.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I'm all for the drawer lock joint or half blind dovetails. Pocket holes? Yeah, not so much for just about anything. 
I've used them maybe a half dozen times.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I've used pocket holes on drawers. Very solid drawers in kitchen island have been holding up for years, but those are all made out of 3/4" plywood-they're large and hold a lot of weight.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I like pocket holes for built-in cabinet boxes, where you can never see them. That's about it for me.


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## BJODay (Jan 29, 2013)

I've made many cabinet drawers. I use a simple rabbet joint. Glue only no fasteners. I use either 1/4" masonite for the bottom or 1/2" ply if is a large drawer or tray for cookware. The drawer bottoms fit in a dado, cut into the drawer sides. When all done, I flip the drawer over and run a bead of glue around the drawer bottom into the dado. I've never had one fail. They stay square and true.

The corner clamping jigs from Rockler work very well.

BJ


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

To follow up, I discovered in looking back that the pull out shelves on the island are made with 1/2" plywood, hold a tremendous amount of weight, and have held up well. I don't use pocket holes in fine furniture, but I have no problem doing it in this kind of application. I use the Kreg right angle clamp to get it clamped as carefully as possible.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

I am about to use pocket hole screws to build a face frame for a bookcase. The red oak is 3/4" thick and I'm hoping this works out well. The screws will be on the back of the face frame and then I'll attach the assembled face to a bookcase carcass. "First" always make me a bit nervous. 
Just a comment regarding "The corner clamping jigs from Rockler work very well."- When I first moved into the new shop, I made clamping cauls that were 30" long, Clamp stands for gluing with slots for f-style bar clamps alternating with slots for pipe clamps, and corner glue blocks. The 90-degree glue blocks are made from 1.5 inch sturdy-floor and are simply a very thick (nominal 1.5" actually measures 1.25") plywood. I made a couple sets of four each of both 6 in. and 3 in. blocks. These corner blocks are exactly square and have a square notch cut out of one corner that accepts the head of f-style bar clamps. I used these on a recent bookcase glue-up and they came in very handy. If I make any projects larger than this bookcase (6.5 X 7.0 ft) I'll probably glue together some 3/4" plywood and cut some 9" glue blocks at 1.5" thick.


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## dddddmorgan (Apr 24, 2015)

I'm a fan of pocket hole joining as well but for 1/2" drawer material I wouldn't think it sturdy enough, but as proven it can be.

On the other hand aesthetic reasons keep me from using pocket holes on drawers except for the shop and such. I knocked together some particle board drawers (I know, I have no shame) 3/4" material and I made them with a false front as described. On the larger drawers I also threw in a #20 biscuit (I know, I know, no shame) and the pocket hole screws were my "clamps."


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

> I use dado s. Typically half-dadoes for drawer boxes. Really strong and not too complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is the right answer.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have used pocket screws for shop drawers with 1/2" plywood. I bought and used the micro jig and it works better in thinner wood than the full size Kreg.

IMHO you need to use better plywood with more layers. Plywood with just 3 layers does not work well. I also do a number of practice joints to get the drill depth set right and to set the clutch on my driver to not over drive the screws.

The drawers I built in the shop were installed with full extension slides and of the 24 drawers have not had a problem.

I do not use pocket screws on good hardwood.


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## Davycrockett (Apr 8, 2016)

I'm with Redoak 49 on this one. I built vanity drawers with 1/2" birch ply utilizing the micro jig and screws. 2 Years of abuse and they are still holding up well. As a novice woodworker I enjoy using the Kreg products and pocket hole joinery. It works for me.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

My limited experience in using pocket hole joinery has taught me that 1 1/2" - 3/4" soft wood works well but not so using 1/2" softwood. Splits too easily. Guess I should try the micro jig.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

I've used pocket screws for shop drawers. I cut the pocket holes on the front and rear panels and screw into the side panels. This is much, much stronger than going the other way.

For the shop drawers I used 3/4" ply. If you are using thinner ply then Baltic Birch will work better.

I keep a 40 year old router setup for my dovetail jig. I never make any adjustments unless I am replacing the bit. In that way the dovetail jig is just as quick to use as is any of the lesser methods of drawer joinery.

The only reason I used pocket screws for the shop drawers is that the utility ply will not tolerate dovetails.


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