# SawStop Assembly



## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*First Step: To Stand the Cabinet Saw Upright...*

I planned this purchase for a year. I got delivery this past Saturday.

How can a single person lift and insert a heavy cabinet saw into a mobile base? Below is the method I used. Of course, I have a big advantage in this issue because of an overhead crane system I had installed in my garage back in 2009.

This is one of those times where my electric overhead crane pays for itself.

My brother Kyle watched his sons Kayleb and Chad and daughter Chanile hang the I-beam to the ceiling trusses. This was back on July 4, 2009. My father was here to watch this construction. He made sure we all could and would work hard. Dad had to leave before we were done because he was one of two honorees in his local town parade, WWII vets.

I rented two drywall lifts to pin the I-beam to the ceiling. My brother and nephews brought their ladders and tools. Chad fed and hung the U bolts in the attic across the ceiling trusses. Clive with his expertise did the electrical and assembled the crane lift and installed it on the I-beam.

-

I removed the cardboard and styrofoam packing material around the base of the prone SawStop saw so I could get my straps underneath the cast iron table top.










I positioned the tie-straps to the crane lift so I could get the table upright.










I have stood this cabinet saw up from a prone position. Now I will readjust the straps so I can lift the cabinet saw straight up in the air so it will clear my mobile base, just a few inches from the floor.










I have adjusted the straps so now when I lift the saw it will rise straight up a few inches above the floor so I can position the mobile base directly under the cabinet saw.

Slowly lowering the saw until it sits in the mobile securely.










There she sits in the industrial mobile base.

What makes this base better than the optional integrated professional mobile base?

Here is my opinion: (1) four casters instead of two casters in the integrated professional mobile base which also has two hidden rollers inside the cabinet, (2) an hydraulic foot pump to raise the cabinet off the floor instead of a foot lever to tilt the cabinet onto the roller and casters, and (3) a soft release to place the cabinet back on the floor instead of a quick drop release that the operator would have to kind of hold up with their legs and arms strength on order to keep the cabinet from slamming onto the shop floor.

Also with the four casters it should be much easier to move and maneuver the heavy cabinet saw around the shop.

I believe a garage shop should have every tool and table be very mobile.

From here the rest of the assembly should be very methodical, simply by following the instructions and using the correct part.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *First Step: To Stand the Cabinet Saw Upright...*
> 
> I planned this purchase for a year. I got delivery this past Saturday.
> 
> ...


I have that saw and base and love both. I am tall so I built a platform to put in the base to raise it. Unfortunately, I do not have a nice hoist but used an engine lift.

Have fun putting it together..the instructions are great.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *First Step: To Stand the Cabinet Saw Upright...*
> 
> I planned this purchase for a year. I got delivery this past Saturday.
> 
> ...


I am discovering like other owners assembling this saw is that the parts, materials and the instructions are outstanding. All i need to do is take my time to read the instructions and follow them to a Tee.

So far I have discovered only one part missing. That was one of two M6 lock washers. I went to my storage bin and pulled out a similar sized SAE washer made from nickel. That's the only difference I have found. I am sure it will work perfectly in the original parts place.

After a nice nap I will pick up at the assembly of step 7, putting together the 36 inch extension table. Let's go…


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## DuaneMac (Feb 18, 2021)

HappyHowie said:


> *First Step: To Stand the Cabinet Saw Upright...*
> 
> I planned this purchase for a year. I got delivery this past Saturday.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing this. My new Sawstop Professional cabinet saw is arriving next week. I was thinking I'd be using my overhead chain hoist to install it on the industrial mobile base.

It was good to see your techniques.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *First Step: To Stand the Cabinet Saw Upright...*
> 
> I planned this purchase for a year. I got delivery this past Saturday.
> 
> ...


That's a good idea. I'm trying to think back a few years. I got mine off the back of my truck and up some stairs and put it together all in a day. I don't remember how I did it. But it all went together. But I'm older now. It wouldn't be the same I think. I was 63 then.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *First Step: To Stand the Cabinet Saw Upright...*
> 
> I planned this purchase for a year. I got delivery this past Saturday.
> 
> ...


Duane Mac congratulations on your Saw Stop purchase. You now own a great saw and their industrial mobile base is super. It is worth its price. I am glad my blog post helped. Best wishes to you.

I cannot imagine taking this saw (even still in the shipping box) up or down a stairway.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Completed Saw Assembly*

The industrial mobile base with a kit for the PCS saw arrived a couple days earlier than expected. I modified the mobile base so the professional cabinet saw would fit inside the base. Four boxes arrived just four days after I ordered my SawStop from Amazon.com.









I removed the accessories items packed inside the large box. Then I cut away the sides of the box so just the cabinet saw remained. Trimming away the bottom edges of the cardboard as well as the styrofoam allowed me to move the cabinet so I could fit my straps underneath the saw along the edges of the cast iron table top.









I stood up the cabinet saw and inserted it inside the industrial base as stated in the previous blog entry.

I next began adding the cast iron table top wings by first removing the oiled paper and wiping clean the oil with a clean cloth. I also sprayed some WD-40 to help cut the oil.









In order to help hold the heavy cast iron wings I used my super sawhorses and the outfeed JIGs clamped to make them the desired height. This JIG helped me through this process. Next I started to install the front and rear rails. 









Again I used my super sawhorses to hold the rails steady.









Next I installed my 36 inch table extension. This was probably the most tedious task in this whole saw setup.









After that the installation of the fence and rail guide was required. I found out later that I probably did not tighten one of the screws or bolts for the extension table. It dropped on one edge a fraction of an inch. This means I will need to remove the rail guide and readjust the height of the extension table. It needs to be exactly flush with the cast iron table top so the rip fence does not bump into the cast iron when slid across the right wing of the saw's table top. Oh, well. It just would not feel right if I had completed an install perfectly, the first time…









My shop uses a different 240 volt plug so I cut off the existing plug and installed the compatible plug that fits my 240 volt sockets, I ran the saw to confirm everything worked.









Tomorrow I will check calibrations and readjust the height of the extension table; as I stated above it dropped a little on the front edge for some reason. It will take some time but the task is not difficult.


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

HappyHowie said:


> *Completed Saw Assembly*
> 
> The industrial mobile base with a kit for the PCS saw arrived a couple days earlier than expected. I modified the mobile base so the professional cabinet saw would fit inside the base. Four boxes arrived just four days after I ordered my SawStop from Amazon.com.
> 
> ...


You are going to enjoy that saw/mobile base combo.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Completed Saw Assembly*
> 
> The industrial mobile base with a kit for the PCS saw arrived a couple days earlier than expected. I modified the mobile base so the professional cabinet saw would fit inside the base. Four boxes arrived just four days after I ordered my SawStop from Amazon.com.
> 
> ...


That is a beauty! Almost a shame to get it all covered in sawdust.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Completed Saw Assembly*
> 
> The industrial mobile base with a kit for the PCS saw arrived a couple days earlier than expected. I modified the mobile base so the professional cabinet saw would fit inside the base. Four boxes arrived just four days after I ordered my SawStop from Amazon.com.
> 
> ...


Since I bought this saw during the month of April, I will be receiving their overhead dust collection kit. I filled out the form and mailed it in. I suspect that it will be delivered like everything else: exceeding my expectations.

I am not sure how often I will have this overhead dust collection system on my saw, but since it was offered for no extra cost I could not turn down that offer.

I never had my blade guard on my old saw, very much. I got use to having a clear view of the blade cutting my lumber. I got bit though, but it wasn't the saw's fault. For some reason I was compelled to move that small off-cut piece without turning off the saw. And, like a fool, knowing I do not have depth perception, I reached for that piece of wood. I touched the running blade instead of the small wood piece just laying there still as a dead mouse. I had to suck off the blood from those finger tips before I could see the damage I had done to myself. Like a lot of others, at first, there was no pain. Shock did settle in, but it wasn't mine. It was my wife as she tried driving me to the emergency room. I wasn't going to let her see the wound. Maybe I should have because her imagination probably thought I was worse off. Now a year and two weeks later I have assembled a SawStop table saw in my woodshop. It can still bite, but I do not believe it will chop digits off. Certainly, I am not going to stick my fingers into a running blade again just to test and see what happens afterwards.

Be safe…


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *Completed Saw Assembly*
> 
> The industrial mobile base with a kit for the PCS saw arrived a couple days earlier than expected. I modified the mobile base so the professional cabinet saw would fit inside the base. Four boxes arrived just four days after I ordered my SawStop from Amazon.com.
> 
> ...


Enjoy the saw Howie…it's a beauty. I have the same one and, unfortunately we have something else in common, I too was bitten on my prior saw in a very similar fashion. I'll send a PM with the details. I have the overhead dust collection and find it to be mediocre at best (when I use it). They engineered the connection to the 4 inch part at 90 degrees which is a known no-no. I've heard a few folks say they re-worked the connection to a better angle (45 degrees, I think) and it increased the efficiency some. I use the Microjig gripper so much that I hardly ever use the blade guard on rip cuts now. You have yourself a top notch quality saw.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Adjusted the Fence Rail*

I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.

This was a very tedious process. I went looking for an extra set of hands to help me.

After several attempts I finally loosened enough bolts or screws to get the saw table top and the extension table aligned and flush. I went around the back and front to get all the screws tightened before mounting back the fence rail.

I also fastened the screws to the mobile base bracket and the cabinet's side panel. These two items are now anchored or fastened together.

My assembly of this SawStop is complete.










Tomorrow I will make a new crosscut sled for this saw. Then I will get back to making some furniture pieces.

I am thinking of purchasing the Incra 3000SE miter gauge. Does anyone out there recommend this Incra miter gauge? What do you like most about it? What if any limitations does it have? For instance, would you use it instead of a crosscut sled to cut a long or wide board? What are its best uses or applications?


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


No recommendation on the 3000 but I have the 1000hd and I triple check that the aluminium of the mitre gauge gets close but never touches the blade. I don't need to replace a blade and cartridge because I did something stupid.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


*WhoMe* makes an excellent point which for me is a "good news, bad news" story. Bad news: I have triggered my Sawstop once. Good news: It had nothing to do with my flesh…just the miter gauge! I own the Osborne EB-3 and one night was making some 45 degree cuts. I moved the fence close to the blade to provide as much support as possible. The next day, I swung the fence back to 90 degrees and made a cut on some walnut. Suddenly, POW, loud noise and the blade is gone. I had forgotten to move the fence back, so, it was in line with the blade. $70 for a new cartridge and $100+ for a Forrest blade! THAT will never happen again.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


I have the Incra 1000SE and triggered the blade safety with it. Just be careful and enjoy your saw.


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## richimage (Aug 30, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


We should form a club…. you know, jackets, maybe hats…... I triggered mine once with a miter fence, and once from no apparent thing. I mailed the cartridge to SawStop for analysis, and they pretty much said "must have been metal in the wood". It is an educational experience!


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


Richimage, your story doesn't bode well for me. It usually takes me three attempts before I stop making the same mistake; especially at the age I am.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


Congratulations on the new saw. I have the 3000 Miter gauge. I like it. Very accurate but for cutting larger panels I use a sled.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


Julian, thank you for comment.

I will go ahead and build my crosscut sled for large panels today.

Being an engineer like William Ng I use his Five Cuts to a perfect Crosscut Sled method to get my front fence square to the blade. I was impressed with his use of geometry mathematics to solve his issue. Tenth grade mathematics applied in the real world.

My troubles using Mr Ng's method is always keeping the fence clamped still as I tighten down my second bolt where you fix the squareness of the fence; not the pivot bolt location. That one is easy.. I abandoned screws long ago for fastening sled fences. I was predrilling too many holes. The fence was always moving on me as I tries to anchor it with that second screw or bolt. There it is that third time might get it right thingy with me. So it goes…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adjusted the Fence Rail*
> 
> I discovered that my cast iron table top was not flush with the top of the extension table. The rip fence would bump into the cast iron table. It was obvious that I had not installed the rail correctly. This meant I had to remove the rail and loosen the bolts on the right side of the saw.
> 
> ...


Julian, thank you for comment.

I will go ahead and build my crosscut sled for large panels today.

Being an engineer like William Ng I use his Five Cuts to a perfect Crosscut Sled method to get my front fence square to the blade Kerr. I was impressed with his use of geometry mathematics to solve his issue. Tenth grade mathematics applied in the real world.

My troubles using his method is keeping the fence clamped still as I tighten down my second bolt where you fix the squareness of the fence; not the pivot bolt location. That one is easy.. I abandoned screws long ago for fastening sled fences. I was predrilling too many holes. The fence was always moving on me as I try to anchor it with that second screw or bolt. There it is that third time might get it right issue with me. So it goes…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Crosscut Sled for Large Panels Completed*

I should remember that there are no shortcuts to good work. It took longer to complete this sled build than it should have. I should have slowed down to get the countersinks drilled right the first time. Oh, well. The sled is done and is square. As I stated I used William Ng's "5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled". It is just I took more than two sets of tests to get the front fence set to square. And so it goes.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *Crosscut Sled for Large Panels Completed*
> 
> I should remember that there are no shortcuts to good work. It took longer to complete this sled build than it should have. I should have slowed down to get the countersinks drilled right the first time. Oh, well. The sled is done and is square. As I stated I used William Ng's "5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled". It is just I took more than two sets of tests to get the front fence set to square. And so it goes.


A couple of things Howie. First, did you start with a different fence? In the photo there's a kerf all the way through the sled table but not through the front fence (closest to operator). Secondly, do you plan to add a trailing safety block? I see you used a very beefy front fence. Was that in lieu of a trailing block? Lastly, Will you add Plexiglas over the kerf? It's a great safety feature (even with a Sawstop).


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Crosscut Sled for Large Panels Completed*
> 
> I should remember that there are no shortcuts to good work. It took longer to complete this sled build than it should have. I should have slowed down to get the countersinks drilled right the first time. Oh, well. The sled is done and is square. As I stated I used William Ng's "5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled". It is just I took more than two sets of tests to get the front fence set to square. And so it goes.


Hi Lenny, I do use a large 3 1/2" by 3 1/2" block for my front fence. In fact, both the front and rear fences were scrap pieces of lumber left over from when I made my super sawhorses. I have used these thick front fences for several crosscut sleds . I was going to embed a T-track for an integrated stop with the fence. It just did not work out well for that use. For stops, I use blocks of 3/4 inch MDF either clamped to my front fence or to my rip fence when I am cutting a wide panel where I want to start with a specified crosscut length, but as I cut the panel I do not want the right edge to ride up the entire distance against the rip fence. This is where a piece of lumber could be trapped between the blade and the fence thus causing a painful kick-back situation. Instead, I will I make my measurements from the sled's kerf to a clamped small piece against the rip fence. I will then advance the panel by pushing the sled towards the blade and where the right edge of panel is free of touching the clamped stop and is some distance from touching the rip fence.

I prefer to use bolts to fasten my fences to the plywood sled. I recognize that I could simply use glue with screws or brads to fasten the rear fence since it does not have to be square to the saw kerf or blade. However, for the front fence I do follow Portland woodworking instructor Gary Rogowski's method or use of nuts and bolts instead of wood screws to fasten the front fence to the sled's bottom.

I have not discovered why my front fence moves on me as I attempting to square the fence to the blade per William Ng's 5 Cut to a Perfect Crosscut Sled. If I do all the steps right I should be able to get the fence square within the second or third attempt. Getting this last sled square took me five attempts For my next sled I will use different clamps to hold my front fence as I bolt it. I will check to see if that helps.

I did change my pointy hardwood stick. When you are attempting to get your fence square within one thousandths of an inch, you can get off by that much if you put too much pressure on the fence to the pointy end; you could compress the wood's point.

Well, since I watched Gary Rogowski using nuts and bolts instead of wood screws to fasten his front fence to his sleds, I have only used bolts myself when making my crosscut sleds.

Lenny, you have looked closely at my sled! I still have not broken the front edge of the fence with my saw blade. I usually do penetrate the front fence. It is just that I have not used this sled, as yet. Maybe one or two cuts. I have been building two mortising JIGS. All my time has been spent on those two projects. I have also been using my old Porter Cable contractor saw with the sleds I made for it. For instance, tonight besides a few crosscuts I made on the PC saw, I also used my 45 degree miter sled for the PC saw. I used the 45 degree angle sled so I could cut the front two corners of the toggle clamp block I made for use on my mortising JIG. Tomorrow I will photograph and show that mounting block I made for the toggle clamp. I made this mounting block so I could use one nice toggle clamp instead of permanently mounting three toggle clamps to the JIG.

Per your suggestions, I will add a box to my front fence so my fingers and thumbs will be protected when the saw blade passes through the fence.

I doubt I will add a Plexiglas cover over the saw kerf area of my sled. I have watched how William Ng uses acrylic to his sleds. His Plexiglas covers the entire area the saw would travel from the back fence to the front fence. As I watched Mr Ng demonstrate how he made and used this shield, it just seemed to get in the way too often as he laid out and cut his panels. I have never made a shield from my sleds. At this stage, I do not plan of adding a shield.

However, since you have warned me about the block or box I need on the front of my fence, I will get at that task. I've been warned, I know…


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *Crosscut Sled for Large Panels Completed*
> 
> I should remember that there are no shortcuts to good work. It took longer to complete this sled build than it should have. I should have slowed down to get the countersinks drilled right the first time. Oh, well. The sled is done and is square. As I stated I used William Ng's "5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled". It is just I took more than two sets of tests to get the front fence set to square. And so it goes.


Howie, thanks for the extensive explanation. If you will be using that front fence, you may not need the safety block because it is so thick. You would have to cut a very thick board for the blade to come out of that fence. Still, it can't hurt to glue on a block. I don't mean to belabor the point but I'm still unclear on how/when you made the kerf in the plywood base. In the photo, you can clearly see there is a kerf under the front fence. Yet, there's no evident cut in the front fence. Did you make the saw kerf before attaching the front fence? On second thought, maybe that's a pencil mark, not a saw kerf?


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Crosscut Sled for Large Panels Completed*
> 
> I should remember that there are no shortcuts to good work. It took longer to complete this sled build than it should have. I should have slowed down to get the countersinks drilled right the first time. Oh, well. The sled is done and is square. As I stated I used William Ng's "5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled". It is just I took more than two sets of tests to get the front fence set to square. And so it goes.


Lenny, that is a short saw kerf. I have not cut a thick board as yet. Doing that may cause me to push the blade through the thick front fence. When I performed the 5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled I used a 1/2 inch board of plywood; thus the short kerf under the front fence.

Yes, I will design and glue a block to protect my fingers and thumbs. Its just this time I want to design it to last longer than the other one I made for this thick fence. Some type of block that will also be screwed into place.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Crosscut Sled for Large Panels Completed*
> 
> I should remember that there are no shortcuts to good work. It took longer to complete this sled build than it should have. I should have slowed down to get the countersinks drilled right the first time.  Oh, well. The sled is done and is square. As I stated I used William Ng's "5 Cuts to a Perfect Crosscut Sled". It is just I took more than two sets of tests to get the front fence set to square. And so it goes.


Lenny,

I finally got around to adding a safety block so my thumbs do not get cutoff, if I thrust my saw blade through my thick front fence.

When I made this cross-cut sled for my new Saw Stop table saw I posted an image of it on Lumberjocks. A fellow member there complemented me on the sled's design. However, he noticed that I had a small kerf from a blade cut poking out on the operator's side of the sled. He asked me if I was going to protect my thumbs by gluing on some sort of block. I stated that I intended to but on my previous sled the protecting block came loose and fell off. What I was going to do on this sled I wanted to think through the possibilities so the one placed on this sled would be permanent.

It is now nearly six months later and I finally came through with a great idea. I had some of the same material I used for the front fence leftover. It finally struck me to cut a block that fits between the two bolts I am using near the saw's kerf and glue that onto the front fence.

My or anyone else's thumbs will now be well protected from the saw blade, if it ever protrudes through the sled's front fence.﻿


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*

Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.

Just this past week someone published on YouTube an old video that was used in a Fine Woodworking Magazine article published in December 2012. The article covered a rip fence JIG Bob Van ******************** designed for his SawStop's rip fence. He bolts onto the JIG sacrificial boards for cutting rabbets and raised panels. He also bolts on a melamine taller board when he wants to cut tenons for joinery. I like his system.










This is the JIG I want to make for myself. I have already begun to rip the boards in order to make it. Before I can start to drill holes in the JIG, I need help in determining the size of the bolts Bob is using in his video. The plan Fine Woodworking published does specify their size, nor for the T-nuts they screw or fasten into. I am guessing the bolts and T-nuts are 5/16 inches in diameter. If someone on this site has built this JIG or can detect the bolt size from watching the video, I would like to hear from you. To me the bolts look larger that 1/4 inch and not as big as a 3/8 inch bolt with its washers. What do you think the size of the bolts are? I would appreciate your help, especially if you have built this rip fence JIG yourself.

I also intend to build Bob's L Fence JIG for my SawStop… I like it too…


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## Rollie (Apr 25, 2016)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


I would use 1/4-20 cap screws. These will provide more than enough clamping force, if you think they aren't adequate add another 1 or 2. To quote Tom Lipton: "nothing too strong ever broke".
Don't over think this and lose sight of what you are doing. You are building a sacrificial fixture to help you to do safer and better work. If you were building a reproduction for the "Bob Van ******************** Museum" that would be different.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


You have made a good point. You caught me trying to over engineer the task.

The only size reference in Bob's plan was the size of the counterbore for the Tee Nut. I tried to reengineer the size of the Tee Nut's diameter of 1 inch. Curiously he epoxied the Tee nuts instead of simply hammering them in place.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


I decided not to use 1/4 inch - 20 T-nuts. After some thought I decided to use 3/8 inch machine screws or bolts with their corresponding 3/8 inch T-nuts. Although these T-nuts can be pounded into the plywood main fence to hold them in place, I will use my epoxy glue with its fast hardener spray. Bob Van ******************** himself used epoxy on the rip fence JIG he designed.

Saturday I had all the wood pieces cut to near final dimensions. Plus, I marked every location where a T-nut and bolt will be use. Tomorrow I will drill the counterbores so the T-nuts will fit flush to their surfaces plus I will drill the 7/16 inch holes from the opposite surfaces so the T-Nuts can fit into these holes and the machine screws or bolts can fit through them and anchor into the T-nuts. Finding the right size and type of machine screws took several trips to different stores.

I worked late into Saturday evening.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


Hanging on my north wall is the miter corner sled I made that fits my Porter Cable table saw. I used it yesterday to cut the top corner on my toggle clamping block.










This image below shows the toggle clamping block attached to my new mortising jig. I have ordered some new star knobs to fit in these jigs parts. They are scheduled for delivery here this Tuesday.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


I was very nervous about getting the holes drilled for the T-nuts and the corresponding holes for the machine screws misaligned or off slightly.

NEED TO BE PRECISE; ASSURE ALIGNMENT OF THE JOINING FENCES: BASE UNIT AND DISPOSABLE FENCES unit because of some slight misalignment. Therefore, I took extra care to not only mark the locations of the holes to be drilled, but I also clamped the two faces together I then by using a drill guide I took a small drill bit like 7/65 inches and drilled small holes through both faces. Marking the JIGs removable faces this way as a start to getting the JIG aligned correctly, precisely. Extra care was also taken at my drill press to make sure the center of the pre-drilled holes set well with any drill bit's pointy end in my floor drill press. My laser drill guide was used but not counted on as the only guide to aligning these bits up correctly.

ORDER OF WORK

I think it would be helpful for others who want to make this rip fence JIG to know the order of work I used to build this JIG.

Order of Tasks to Build Bob Van ********************'s Rip Fence JIG

1. With a metal ruler and a pencil I laid out the front or taller fence of the base unit of this jig. I made this fence slightly taller that Bob's design. This side of the fence Bob made 5 1/2 inches tall by 36 inches long with 3/4 inch thick Baltic Birch plywood. I also used 3/4 inch thick Baltic Birch plywood. I also cross-cut my plywood fence sheets to 36 inches long. Instead of 5 1/2 inches tall for this side of the fence, I made mine 6 inches tall; taller must be better? Well, maybe. Since I decided to use 3/8 inch sized T-nuts, I wanted to make sure my fence that would be receiving these T-nuts would be tall enough above the 1 1/2 inch thick cross piece member dadoed into the two fences that straddled my SawStop rip fence. This was my main reason for making this side of the fence taller than the plan by 1/2 inch. That condition or additional 1/2 inch height cascades through the rest of the fences I will be making for this rip fence jig.

2. Once I had all of the drill holes marked with a pencil I punched a small hole to start the drill bit with a scratch awl.

3. For all of my MDF removable fences I sized them to match this side of the RIP fence jig: 3/4" thick by 6 inches tall by 36 inches long. I ripped all MDF fences from one 3/4 inch thick MDF sheet. Then I cross-cut those pieces using a stop block to 36 inches long. I prepared three MDF removable fences for drilling holes for the machine screws and T-nuts plus the 1 1/4 inch diameter hanging hole.

4. On the other fence side of the base, four holes are to be drilled for the toggle clamp's spindle to fit through to hold the JIG to the SawStop's rip fence. Actually four holes are drilled with a 1 1/4 inch Forstner bit. I marked these drill holes 2 3/4 inch in from both ends of the fence and half the distance between the bottom of the fence to the cross member holding the two base unit's fences together in DADO slots cut nearly 1/4 inch deep. I cut those dadoes on my Porter Cable contractor saw. I snuck up on the fit. It was a snug fit.

Note: For the last little cut on the table saw, I did not move the saw's fence. To cut two or three more thousandths of an inch more of the DADO by just simply placing more weight with my arms on the piece in order to push or pressure it into the saw's rip fence. That act alone gave me a nice snug fit into these dadoes.

5. I took a small 7/64 inch drill bit and drilled pilot holes into the six inch tall base face. After that I clamped an MDF fence under this fence, then with a handheld drill with the same 7/64 inch bit and a drill guide, I drilled pilot holes into the MDF fences.

TALL MELAMINE TENON CUTTING FENCES

6. I bought a melamine shelving board at a home center in order to make my two tall melamine fences. The shelving board measured 3/4 inches thick, by 11 3/4 inches wide by 97 inches long. I decided to leave one fence 11 3/4 inches tall. Since the base fence I made was 1/2 inch taller than Bob's plan, I decided I would make my other melamine fence 1/2 inch taller than Bob's fence. This additional 1/2 inch makes the other melamine fence 8 inches tall.

I cross-cut the two melamine fences to 36 inches in length. Then I ripped the shorter fence to 8 inches. I kept the finished edge for my tenon cutting fence so both of my melamine fences with have these finished smooth edges at the top of the removable fence.

7. I then made pilot holes in these melamine fences like I did with the MDF fences.

DRILLED COUNTERBORED HOLES FOR T-NUTS

8. I measured the depth of the T-nuts head to be approximately 3/32 inches. I would set my drill press stop to slightly more than this depth into the 3/4 inch thick fences I would now be drilling with Forstner bits. For the 3/8 inch T-nuts I needed to use a 1 inch diameter Forstner bit to snuggly fit the T-nuts within. After drilling the first hole I checked its fit for diameter and depth. The first hole was a bit deeper than I needed so I raised the stop some and rechecked the next hole. It was okay and I used that stop for all the remaining counterbores for the seven T-nuts that will be fastened to the taller fence on the JIG's base unit.

Since no other fence requires a T-nut, I put away the 1 inch Forstner bit.

9. The T-nuts I purchased has a diameter for the threaded bolt of 7/16 inches. Also its depth into the plywood needed a hole drilled 1/2 inches deep. I selected a 7/16 inch diameter drill bit and set my drill press's stop to 1/2 inches depth. I drilled those holes into the base unit's fence by using the pre-drilled holes as my guide that were still visible in the counterbored holes.

10. I then flipped the fence over and with a 3/8 inch drill bit, I drilled those seven holes by using the pre-drilled holes as my guide. I punched the hole through the remainder portion of the plywood fence. This completed the drilling necessary for the T-nut assembly.

11. I waited to drill the 1 1/4 inch hanging holes in this fence and the other fences. However, I did drill the two sets of 1 1/4 inch holes on the base unit's other shorter fence. These twin holes are made so the rubber end of the toggle clamp's spindle can hold the rip fence jig up and tightly against the SawStop's rip fence.

PLACED T-NUTS WITH EPOXY GLUE

12. With a long wrench socket that had a diameter that fit the 3/8 inch T-nuts diameter of one inch and with my bottle of epoxy glue and spray bottle of epoxy hardener, I applied epoxy in the counterbored hole, sprayed the hardener on the T-nut, and then hammered in the T-nut so it was flush or deeper into its counterbored hole. I did this process for all seven T-nuts into the base unit's taller fence.

COUNTERBORED OTHER FENCES FOR MACHINE SCREW AND WASHER

13. The washer diameter in which the 3/8 inch panhead machine screws or bolts fit requires a counterbore of 7/8 inch diameter. I measured the depth of the panhead screw with a washer with my digital calipers to be slightly over 1/4 inch depth.

14. With a 7/8 inch Forstner bit and with my drill press' stop, I drilled the counterbored holes for the seven machine bolts that will fasten each fence to the jig's base unit through its T-nuts.

DRILLED 3/8 INCH HOLES THROUGH CENTER OF COUNTERBORED AND PILOT HOLES

15. I used a 3/8 inch drill bit in my drill press to drill holes through the remainder of the MDF and/or melamine boards. I did this with the machine screw and washer counterbored holes facing up so I could precisely place the drill bit onto the pilot hole. I cleaned up any remaining materials loosely connected to the fence with a hand chisel.

JIG HANGING HOLES DRILLED

16. With my 1 1/4 inch Forstner bit in my drill press I drilled the two hanging holes on each end of the MDF and melamine fences. This completed the holes drilling requirement to fasten this JIG.

Note: After I had hammered in the T-nuts in step 12 above, I glued and clamped the base unit fences together with the cross member fitting into the dado slots. I used Titebond I yellow glue. I let it stay in the clamps for approximately 45 minutes. Also I had not given any thought to how I was going to fasten the toggle clamps to the shorter base unit fence. I guess I assumed I would be using wooden screws. That is the method I am left to perform. However, if I had thought ahead I might have chosen to use short 1/4 inch - 20 tpi Hex bolts with washer and lock washers with nuts to fasten the toggle clamps to its fence. If I had decided on this procedure then I would have drilled counterbored holes on the inside of its base unit's fence so these bolts could be used in this JIG.

ASSEMBLY OF REMOVABLE FENCE TO JIG'S BASE UNIT

17. I bought nice, expensive, steel 3/8 - 16 by 1 inch long machine screws, or bolts at my "go to" speciality hardware store. In addition, I also bought washers to use with these 3/8 machine screws. After all of the fences had been drilled and readied for assembly, I tested fit one MDF fence to the base unit. My machine screws are pan headed but they use an allen hex tool to fasten it down into the T-nut sockets. For the first test of fitting a fence it took some force to screw these bolts on tightly. I also used a metal straight edge to check if the fence was fastened to the base unit flat and straight. The middle machine screw had to be tightened down a few more turns to get the fence flat. It worked.










I assume it will get easier to do as I use this JIG more and more. I hope so…










NEXT STEPS

I had to order longer spindles with rubber ends for the toggle clamps I bought at my local Woodcraft store. I determined that the existing spindles were M8 1.25 sized bolts. The toggle clamps were made to hold things on the same surface that the clamps where fastened to. In this rip fence jig that surface is actually about an inch deeper that the mounting surface. The spindles have to reached through the 3/4 inch thick plywood and touch the SawStop's rip fence inside the jig. I determined I needed a bolt almost 3 inches long. In metric that is about 80 millimeters. I ordered new spindles or bolts 90 mm in length. I found a supply source online and where I could order them from Amazon.com. I got 2-day delivery. They were ordered on Thursday or Friday. I received delivery on Monday.










For the melamine fences I need to make a JIG per Bob's plan to hold a lumber piece square and safely to the fence while pushing it across the saw blade. I will be cutting and making that JIG in the next day or so…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


I completed making my copy of Bob Van *************************' Multi-use Rip Fence JIG. Well, sort of… After completing the Rip Fence JIG with the melamine fences, I noticed that my 1 inch long machine screws, or bolts that fasten the disposable fences to the JIG's base unit were a bit too long. Either I counterbored the holes in which they insert or simply I bought the machine screws a bit too long.

Since Bob did not comment or list the sizes of his machine screws, I made an assumption of what size and length I should purchase for my JIG. I bought severn stainless steel machine screws of the following size: 3/8" - 16 by 1 inch long. About 1/8 of an inch pokes out the other end. I am concerned that might cut or mar the surface of my SawStop fence. Therefore, I went back to my "go to" local hardware store to purchase 3/4 inch length versions of these machine screws. Not only did I find the stainless steel versions, there were 10 screws in the store so I bought them all. I also found black versions of same screw size. I bought all eight this store had on hand. In addition, since my spindles arrived yesterday so I could replace the too short spindles in my two toggle clamps and those were obviously too long, I bought two pairs of M8 1.25 machine bolts in two sizes so I can replace the too long spindles I received yesterday. I bought two machine bolts with Hex heads at 70 mm lengths and two at 75 mm lengths. One of these pairs will fit my toogle clamp application perfectly.

I will replace the machine screws and the spindles on my rip fence jig early in the morning tomorrow.

Gluded and Screwed Hardwood strip to top of two melamine fences.

I was worried about any glue not working well in my need to fasten a hardwood fence to the top of the melamine fence. The melamine is a non-porous substance. It would allow glue to adhere to it. Instead I decided to my new MDF fence on this rip fence JIG. I buried the blade into the MDF fence so only a small portion would scratch or cut a surface I would push past it. I also adjust the height of the blade into the MDF fence so it would cut on inch high. After getting satisfactory results with a test piece, I cut the melamine clean on both melamine fences. The photos below shows the results.



















Now with the particle board showing I could get a good glue surface been


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Bob Van ********************'s Multi-Purpose Rip Fence JIG*
> 
> Since I now have a new SawStop PCS table saw I have been looking for a good example or plan so I can make a universal rip fence JIG for cutting rabbets and tenons on my new table saw.
> 
> ...


Today I replaced the machine screws I originally placed in this JIG. I replaced the 3/8" - 16 by 1 1/4" long stainless steel button head screws with 1 inch long screws. The longer screws protruded about an 1/8 inch beyond the T-nuts. I was concerned that these protrusions may damage or mark the SawStop T-fence. The 1 inch long screw fall short of this protrusion. I had also attempted to use 3/4 inch long screws. Some of those worked but some would not engage into the T-nuts; therefore this shorter length screw was not used.

Rear view of the jig with the toggle clamps plus the top T-nuts.









Front view of mulit-use rip fence jig.









On my north JIG wall now hangs the additional disposable fences. On the left are the MDF fences and on the right are the two tall melamine fences that will be used to cut tenons.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Making Van ********************'s RIP Fence JIG*

I finally got some time today, Saturday, to work on this Rip Fence JIG. The trickiest part is done: the DADOes. The photo shows the dry fit. Before I glue these parts together I will drill the countersinks, holes, etc. I will start that tomorrow.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Overhead Dust Collection*

I am surprised how much more sawdust is tossed on top of my new SawStop compared to my older contractor type Porter Cable table saw. I have also been disappointed with the lack of efficiency of dust collection I get from the optional overheard dust collector.

I have read that some others have had the same poor experience; not everyone, but enough of us. Some have blamed the "T" connector to the main exhaust port instead of SawStop using a "Y" configuration. Also some have commented that they simply push the overhead pipe and hose away from the saw's operator's position. In.summary, these methods try to avoid sharp bends to enable better air flow to enable better and stronger dust collection.

I have enjoyed the use of Dust Right connectors and fixtures…Their equipment enbles quick and easy ways to connects pipes and hoses together, etc.o I was hoping that they, or some other suppier, offered a great alternative to the SawStop T-connector; one that fits their 1 1/2" inside dimensioned flexible hose.

I have also read that someone employed a partially closed air gate that helped. I have purchased a gate so I can test that solution.

Is there someone in this community that can direct me to a supplier and a specific product that can replace the SawStop supplied T connector? Or, can someone offer a solution that will improve the overhed dust collection on my 3 hp, PCS SawStop?

Howie

My main dust collector is a Grizzly 1 1/2 hp G0703. This machine is rated with suction capacity of 715 cfm w/o 5" duct at 30 amp and 695 with 5" duct.at 20 amp. Of course, those are rated capacities at the machine but those ratings should be a good indicator of what I can expect near the table saw. It has been a good collector of dust with my PC table saw as well as my 8 inch Grizzly jointer and 15 inch Grizzly planer. Enough good results for me to expect better from this SawStop overhead dust collector system..

I also could connect my Rigid 6 hp wet vac machine to the overhead collector hose , if I can get a hose reducer from 2.5" to 1.5". However, it would be preferable to use only one system to collect this saw's dust.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Overhead Dust Collection*
> 
> I am surprised how much more sawdust is tossed on top of my new SawStop compared to my older contractor type Porter Cable table saw. I have also been disappointed with the lack of efficiency of dust collection I get from the optional overheard dust collector.
> 
> ...


I found this blog post on this site. I will give bonesbr549 solution a try.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/97426


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*My Adapted Solution for Overhead Dust Collection*

I found bonesbr549's post on his solution to optimize the overhead dust collection on his SawStop. I was going to attempt to apply his solution to my new SawStop. I went to my local Woodcraft store today in hopes I could find all the dust connector devices I would require. I got lucky. I can put all the parts together, but I will add a rubber connector for my SawStop 4" port. I will connect the 90 degree angle bend part shown below with that 4" rubber connector.

The photograph below shows generally how these parts will fit together. I use my Grizzly G0703 1 1/2 hp cyclone dust collector by connecting it directly to each machine I use in my shop, I use Dust Right's easy to connect devices to fit my dust collector's hose to each machine. It does a good job for me.










I could not find a cap to place over the 1 1/2" overhead hose when not in use so I added this manual gate to serve that purpose. So the gate will be closed when I am not using the overhead collection system.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

HappyHowie said:


> *My Adapted Solution for Overhead Dust Collection*
> 
> I found bonesbr549's post on his solution to optimize the overhead dust collection on his SawStop. I was going to attempt to apply his solution to my new SawStop. I went to my local Woodcraft store today in hopes I could find all the dust connector devices I would require. I got lucky. I can put all the parts together, but I will add a rubber connector for my SawStop 4" port. I will connect the 90 degree angle bend part shown below with that 4" rubber connector.
> 
> ...


Great solution to a nasty problem. Thank you for sharing


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *My Adapted Solution for Overhead Dust Collection*
> 
> I found bonesbr549's post on his solution to optimize the overhead dust collection on his SawStop. I was going to attempt to apply his solution to my new SawStop. I went to my local Woodcraft store today in hopes I could find all the dust connector devices I would require. I got lucky. I can put all the parts together, but I will add a rubber connector for my SawStop 4" port. I will connect the 90 degree angle bend part shown below with that 4" rubber connector.
> 
> ...


The Y adaptor in the photo is positioned wrong for my installation. It will actually face the exact opposite direction; so the SawStop overhead hose and adaptors will be positioned to take advantage of suction airflow towards my dust collector…

Since my local Woodcraft store did not have a 4 inch rubber cuff, I ordered two (an extra in case something else needs to be solved) from Amazon. Gee, being an Amazon Prime member means my shipping cost for this order will be much less than if I ordered them directly from Woodcraft's online store. Once those cuffs arrive and I have one installed on my SawStop 4" port, I will take another photograph to show this dust collection's configuration or setup. I am hopeful that it will improve my dust collection at the saw blade quite a bit… My fingers are crossed for good luck… Thanks again to bonesbr549's original design.

The 4" rubber cuff I ordered will replace the short section of flexible hose between the SawStop's port and the 4" elbow or 90 degree angled adaptor. When I do that I am hoping the bends will be straighten so my airflow will be improved. I may even remove that other short section of flexible hose between the elbow and the Y adaptor.

My objective will be to get the overhead hose in line without a bend as it connects to my Y adaptor. I will see if I can simply push the overhead hose and pipe away from the SawStop thus removing the bends in the hose in this attempt to improve dust collection on top of the saw at the blade cover.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Adding Rubber Cuffs Completes Overhead Dust Collection Setup*

I received delivery this afternoon of the Woodcraft 4" rubber cuffs I ordered through Amazon.com. I went right to work replacing the flexible hoses with this smaller and more rigid rubber cuffs. Since I also had a 2 1/2" rubber cuff handy, I replaced the small flexible hose taking off from the Y-adaptor. I faced that Y adaptor towards the dust collector

Take a look at the before and after setup.









Before 4" Rubber Cuffs

After 4" Rubber Cuffs Installed









The yellow string is no longer required. These hard rubber cuffs and the removal of the flexible hoses lets the hoses suspend by themselves. They can hover above the woodshop floor.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adding Rubber Cuffs Completes Overhead Dust Collection Setup*
> 
> I received delivery this afternoon of the Woodcraft 4" rubber cuffs I ordered through Amazon.com. I went right to work replacing the flexible hoses with this smaller and more rigid rubber cuffs. Since I also had a 2 1/2" rubber cuff handy, I replaced the small flexible hose taking off from the Y-adaptor. I faced that Y adaptor towards the dust collector
> 
> ...


Interesting plumbing….I think you may have the wye turned around the wrong direction.

One of the only issues I h ave with the SawStop is that the over blade dust collection does not work well. When you connect it to the guard, how is it doing with dust collection on your saw?


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adding Rubber Cuffs Completes Overhead Dust Collection Setup*
> 
> I received delivery this afternoon of the Woodcraft 4" rubber cuffs I ordered through Amazon.com. I went right to work replacing the flexible hoses with this smaller and more rigid rubber cuffs. Since I also had a 2 1/2" rubber cuff handy, I replaced the small flexible hose taking off from the Y-adaptor. I faced that Y adaptor towards the dust collector
> 
> ...





> Interesting plumbing….I think you may have the wye turned around the wrong direction.
> - Redoak49


I agree, for optimal airflow, the wye should be turned around the other way. 
Think of it like a freeway on ramp. You want a smooth merge, nor a hard u turn at the merge. 
Your setup is like mine planned dc though. Rubber couplings, a merging wye and the dust right quick release. I don't have the over arm stuff yet as im trying to figure out a different solution.
I really like the idea of the blast gate for the blade guard. I'll have to use that when mine is done. 
Thanks for posting this.

BTW, your shop and saw look tho clean..lol


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adding Rubber Cuffs Completes Overhead Dust Collection Setup*
> 
> I received delivery this afternoon of the Woodcraft 4" rubber cuffs I ordered through Amazon.com. I went right to work replacing the flexible hoses with this smaller and more rigid rubber cuffs. Since I also had a 2 1/2" rubber cuff handy, I replaced the small flexible hose taking off from the Y-adaptor. I faced that Y adaptor towards the dust collector
> 
> ...


You guys are right. I need to turn the Y-adaptor around the other direction. Thanks for the heads-up tip.










With the use of the Y adaptor instead of the T adaptor that came with the saw, I am hoping to improve the dust collection at the saw blade.

I was shocked how must saw dust is generated on top of this saw. I thought it might be due to the SawStop combination blade that came with the saw. However, I replaced the blade with one I had good success with on my old contractor type Porter Cable table Saw. The new blade did not help.

My guess is that because the dust collection box under the table is so large that it does not help to funnel or channel the dust to the dust collector that well. Just my guess. It is also probably the reason SawStop designed an overhead dust collection system. It is just surprising that they made that an option instead of a standard feature of the saw.


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## ideal2545 (Apr 29, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adding Rubber Cuffs Completes Overhead Dust Collection Setup*
> 
> I received delivery this afternoon of the Woodcraft 4" rubber cuffs I ordered through Amazon.com. I went right to work replacing the flexible hoses with this smaller and more rigid rubber cuffs. Since I also had a 2 1/2" rubber cuff handy, I replaced the small flexible hose taking off from the Y-adaptor. I faced that Y adaptor towards the dust collector
> 
> ...


Hey, curious how this setup is working, i get basically no dust collection with the current stock setup, been debating just hooking up a shopvac to the top collector but id rather not do that.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Adding Rubber Cuffs Completes Overhead Dust Collection Setup*
> 
> I received delivery this afternoon of the Woodcraft 4" rubber cuffs I ordered through Amazon.com. I went right to work replacing the flexible hoses with this smaller and more rigid rubber cuffs. Since I also had a 2 1/2" rubber cuff handy, I replaced the small flexible hose taking off from the Y-adaptor. I faced that Y adaptor towards the dust collector
> 
> ...


I never was happy with the overhead dust collection from this system as shown. Rarely would I hook it up since it was not effective as I would like it to be. It came free to me so I was not out any money for it.

SawStop has introduced a new Industrial 4-inch floating overarm dust collection system. It looks much better, but I haven't bought it. Take a look at it by clicking on the link here.. It is compatible with the professional cabinet saw.


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