# More tools in the shop



## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*New Larger Table Saw (Delta unisaw)*

This is my first time on lumberjocks and am new to woodworking. I converted my 2 car garage to a wood shop with basic woodworking power tools (bandsaw, planer, jointer, table saw, router and sander) that will help me with woodworking. I was not confident that I my continue woodworking as hobby so I never paid more than 150 dollars for a single used tool. Have been lucky so far in finding good deals.

Among them is a Bt3000 Ryobi table saw that was given to me by someone for free who inherited it and just wanted to clean up his garage. I fine tuned the machine, built dust collection and built a mobile base for it. Except that the saw is very loud and fence not that rigid, I like this saw and it fullfils my current needs. However it has not been super precise especially the sliding miter feature. I spent good amount of time tuning it but every time I replace the sliding miter from the saw it is no longer parallel with the blade. So I have been looking in Craigslist for months to see if I can buy a saw with cast iron and sturdier fence in a price range I can afford. A part of me wanted a bigger table and powerful motor (though other part of me said I dont need it  )

I saw a post from a gentleman who wanted to get rid of tools he inherited as part of home purchase. He was flipping the house and wanted the tools gone away asap. The tools belonged to a retired navy engineer who spent lot of money on his tools and was using them to build structural members ( lot of 4 by 12s i guess) for this house.

He had a table saw and I checked the table saw and it seemed to run fine. i wrote the model number and did some basic research. It was *Delta Platinum Unisaw with 50" Commercial Biesemeyer Fence System (Model 36-957)* made in usa and in year 2000. it was 220V single phase 3 hp (the base of the saw is Model 36-941). It is a right tilting saw.

Did not have a clue how much it was worth. saw some forums and saw 700 will be a good deal. Finally after negotiation I picked it for for *$750*. ?In adidtion to table I got the following extras:


Bisemeyer fence with extension table
Bismeyer crosscut fence
Bismeyer auxillay fence
Master plate
Superbar
Miter guage
Delta tenoning jig
4 zero clearance throat plates ( unopened)
1 freud 50 teeth combination blade ( unopened)
1 8 in dado blade (unused)
Mobile base
Manuals




























See more pictures here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MpbQ7cHqw1pXdndD2

Now for the bad part


There is rust on the table from neglect over years. Hopefully if it is only surface rust.
The extension table seems to expanded or moved with time and is not level with the cast iron main table. This is causing the fence to catch at the interface where cast iron table meets the extension table.
missing a part that holds the blade guard(splitter and anti kickback paws) at the back of the saw
need to check alignment
the saw was not hooked to dust collection so there is lot of dust in the base and tilting mechanism of the table saw.

First thing to work on is the rust. Here are some pictures of the rust. 








I need to come with plan to restore it to a state I can get it working.

Overall i am happy with purchase. I think it was a good deal and worth 750. But time will tell.


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

Plasmon360 said:


> *New Larger Table Saw (Delta unisaw)*
> 
> This is my first time on lumberjocks and am new to woodworking. I converted my 2 car garage to a wood shop with basic woodworking power tools (bandsaw, planer, jointer, table saw, router and sander) that will help me with woodworking. I was not confident that I my continue woodworking as hobby so I never paid more than 150 dollars for a single used tool. Have been lucky so far in finding good deals.
> 
> ...


Plasmon,

You did very, very well, but I think you knew that. There is NOTHING you have to deal with that won't be corrected with a little elbow grease.

The table top can be cleaned up in a multitude of ways. I like WD-40 and a good sanding myself, then follow with some form of wax or other product to make the cast iron slippery.

I don't use my splitter, so I wouldn't see that as an issue. Look into an aftermarket riving knife. There are many options at many price points. Get what you feel is best, but get something.

Make sure the saw blade is parallel with the miter gauges and that the fence is parallel to the saw blade.

Do have a great score there. You will be amazed at the difference between what you were capable of with the Ryobi and what you will do with this saw.

Enjoy it!


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## wrenchhead (Sep 26, 2009)

Plasmon360 said:


> *New Larger Table Saw (Delta unisaw)*
> 
> This is my first time on lumberjocks and am new to woodworking. I converted my 2 car garage to a wood shop with basic woodworking power tools (bandsaw, planer, jointer, table saw, router and sander) that will help me with woodworking. I was not confident that I my continue woodworking as hobby so I never paid more than 150 dollars for a single used tool. Have been lucky so far in finding good deals.
> 
> ...


Looks like you got a heck of a deal!! +1 on the riving knife upgrade if possible


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Plasmon360 said:


> *New Larger Table Saw (Delta unisaw)*
> 
> This is my first time on lumberjocks and am new to woodworking. I converted my 2 car garage to a wood shop with basic woodworking power tools (bandsaw, planer, jointer, table saw, router and sander) that will help me with woodworking. I was not confident that I my continue woodworking as hobby so I never paid more than 150 dollars for a single used tool. Have been lucky so far in finding good deals.
> 
> ...


Razor scrapers will take off most of the junk.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*New Additions and Wiring for new machinery*

Before reading some of the electrical work I wrote in this article, *please note that I am not an electrician and have no suggestions to anyone. This post is to document my experience and is not a "how to" post.*

As stated in my last post, I acquired a table saw (unisaw) which turned out to be a great deal. Following that I also got a heavy duty chisel mortiser, planer, and jointer from the same seller (they seem to be a good deal). I will write about them in detail in later posts but for now here are the details for their power requirements

Delta unisaw 36-957: 3 hp needs 12 amps @ 220V,

Grizzly G1021z 15 in planer: 3 hp needs 12 amps @ 220V

Grizzly G1018 8 in jointer: 3 hp needs 12 amps @ 220V

Grizzly floor Chisel mortiser: 1 hp works with 110 V needs 7A

All are single phase.

I have some 110V outlets (20Amp) in the garage but no 220V outlets except for cloths dryer. At this moment, I donot want to pay to install subpanel in the garage. It just seems to be too much work/costs trying to get permits/electrician etc. So I decided to use dryer outlet for running this machinery using a home made extension cable. My dryer outlet is 220V at 30A which should be enough to drive at least two of the above tools at once in an extreme case (I will be the only one person running the tools and I don't think I will be running two tools at once).

I know dryer outlet is rated at 30 Amp, because I saw the breaker for it and it had a 30A breaker on it. The wire that connected panel and the outlet was 10-4, which meant it can take 30A and had 4 wires in it. The 4 wires being L1, L2, neutral and ground. If I am not wrong, neutral and ground are tied together in the panel. L1 and L2 are 110V AC wrt to neutral/ground but 180 degrees out of phase so the potential difference between L1 and L2 is 220V AC.

The outlet/receptacle was behind the dryer, so it cannot be accessed easily. It had three pins (one for L1 , one for L2, one for nuetra (white)l, there is no ground on the receptacle). This outlet turned out to be NEMA 10-30R. I figured it out from wiki image on NEMA connectors









After turning off the 30 amp breaker on the panel, I opened the receptacle and saw four wires and the ground wire (green) was by itself not connected to anything. This proves that it was 10-30R. I checked the resistance between the green and neutral, they were short. The ground was not connected to the receptacle housing (I think it should have been connected to the receptacle housing).

Here are some pictures of that





































As you can see in the last picture the power cable on the dryer has three cables and none of them went to the chassis ground (the green nut).

So to summarize my current setup, i drew a diagram with color coding. 









Powering the machinery will need a ground so I have to come with a way to get the ground connection from the outlet. In addition to this machinery, we have a electric car that we leased for 3 years. we have been lucky that there is fast charging station behind our house and it is free to use for the first two years. we go there to charge our car and rarely charge at home with 110V. We are almost at the end of first year. But after one year from now, we have to charge the car at home using 30 Amp, 220V car charging system which needs a ground. we need an outlet for that in the future, so I was planning for that too.

So in summary, I have to use the 30A 220V circuit for charging the car, drying clothes and woodworking machinery. Here are the two options schemes for wiring I came up with. I wanted to make sure at anytime load should not exceed 30 amps.

Option 1: have three separate outlets but two switches (double pole double throw) switches like these rated at 30A 220V to power one outlet at a time. In this case, one needs to just flip the switches and current will flow in only one of outlet. Choose 10-30R outlet for dryer, dryer will not have its own ground, choose 14-30R for electric car charging system (which will have a ground), and 6-30R for machinery (which will have a ground). To drive the machinery I will have an 30 foot extension cable that will have 6-30P plug on one side and two 6-20R outlets on other side. Here is the schematic for this.










Option 2: Manually changing the plug but have one outlet for all four. this will require to replace the current three slot dryer (10-30R) receptacle to four prong receptacle ( 14-30R) to a more accessible place. If I did that I have to change power cord going to the dryer from a three prong to a four prong plug. I also needed to ground the dryer (basically attach the green wire from the power cord to a grounding screw). I can also build the extension cable with a 14-30p but leave the neutral not connected. In this option, one has to manually change the plugs. Here is the schematic for this option










After researching all the costs associated with both options, we (my wife and I) decided to go with Option2. It is going to be pain in the b*** to remove the plug and replace the plug. Those double pole double throw switches and outlets are expensive. I learned that costs add up very quickly when dealing with electrical hardware. I should have gone to a electrical supply place rather than big box store in the future.

All the outlet boxes are grounded. I used 10 guage THHN wire in 3/4 in EMT conduit (to future proof) for putting the new outlet. Now the outlet is more accessible to change the plug. Those 90 degree bending fitting are each 7 dollars, quite expensive. I need to learn how to bend emt to save money.

So here is the final setup.




























I still need to make the extension cable which should be very simple. I will use 30 feet of 10-3 Soow cable which runs about 2 dollars a foot at big box store.

I am happy things are moving ahead.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*Grizzly jointer.*

Got a Grizzly 1018 heavy duty jointer for $400. It is 1.5 HP with a 3 knife system. The feed tables are 8 inch wide and 65 inch long. It was wired for 220V (can be rewired for 110V) and motor sounded normal. Came with

1) Jointer pal for setting knifes (seems never used)
2) Dispoz-a-blade holder and knives (never used)
3) Extra set of dispoz-a-blade knives (never used)

Before buying this jointer, I quickly made sure the outfeed and infeed were not warped or bowed with a straight edge. Surface rust was present. Jointed a 2 by 4, blades seemed very dull. Still took a chance and bought it as part of multitool purchase (delta unisaw, joiner, mortiser and planer)

This jointer will be replacing by 6 inch harbor frieght jointer which I got used for 90 dollars.

Tasks to get this up and running:

1) Clean the surface rust - Done. 
Sprayed wd40 and scrubbed with 3m scotch brite pads. Most of the rust seems to be gone. Put Johnson's paste wax for now. On the body used dilute simple green to remove dust.

2) Vacuum out the antique saw dust - Done. 
Jointer never hooked to dust collection, ton of antique saw dust.

Here are the pics before and after cleaning.



















More pictures before and after at https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jcc75LnvbqnEcZHY2

3) Set the fence to 90deg and lock it. 
Comes with a fence that can be adjusted. I moved the fence to the farthest end and locked it. i used a digital angle guage to make sure it was 90deg on both outfeed and infeed table (see pictures above). These guages are awesome.

4) Replace blades
Before using the dispoz-a-blade system that came with the jointer, I dont know if I can flip the blades that are already installed to expose other sharp side of the blade. I am new to woodworking and I dont think I need a helical cutter at this stage. Current jointer capability is already an overkill for me.

5) Make sure outfeed and infeed tables can be adjusted 
Currently the infeed table is 1/16 inch lower than the outfeed. I want to change this in future, I need to figure out how to move the tables up and down. The manual says that the two levers on the sides are for adjusting the tables. I tried moving them but they dont move, may Be I need to loosen the table locks. Hope that the dovetails are not jammed.

6) Come with a way to measure how parallel the outfeed and infeed tables are with respect to each other. Dont know how to do this, I have seen people shimming the dovetails if they are way off. need more research.

7) Make some sawdust

Am I missing anything that need to be done for this jointer? comments appreciated.


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## MKH (Jan 20, 2018)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Grizzly jointer.*
> 
> Got a Grizzly 1018 heavy duty jointer for $400. It is 1.5 HP with a 3 knife system. The feed tables are 8 inch wide and 65 inch long. It was wired for 220V (can be rewired for 110V) and motor sounded normal. Came with
> 
> ...


$400 plus some elbow grease. Sounds like a great deal to me. Congrats. Now go concentrate on step #7


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*Bandsaw storage*

My garage workshop has been getting very crowded. I am spending good amount of time trying to find things. I have been searching for places where I can store stuff near a particular tool.

In this pursuit, I saw unutilized space inside my grizzly G0555LX 14 inch bandsaw tool stand. I thought I could make a drawer and put some of the tools and accessories that go with the bandsaw in it. The accessories include a crappy miter gauge that I rarely use, extra bearings, hex keys, wrench and blades (still in package which I got in a yard sale).

The tricky part was that the bandsaw tool stand was angled by 5 degrees in both length and width direction, much like a truncated pyramid. In addition, with my limited time and creativity, it would be hard for me to put the slide rails for the drawer on the sides because the sides are angled.

I decided not to put any drawer slides and just attach two pieces of the wood at the bottom which acts like support and also as rails . I made a drawer box with rabbet joints at the ends with three slots along the depth direction to partition the box. I used scrap 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch plywood lying around to decrease my wood collection (becoming a nuisance these days). To install the drawer front, I put pieces of wood that were cut at 5 degrees between the box and the drawer front (see picture), this makes the drawer front parallel to the tool stand. Sanded it down and finished with some water based polyeurathane.

For now, the bandsaw holds my extra blades that are still wrapped in package. I am not sure if this box can store my bandsaw blades when they are opened from the package. Nevertheless, I am happy that I don't need to waste 10 minutes trying to find a dedicated hex key to adjust the bearing supports.





































Side view schematic of the drawer.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Bandsaw storage*
> 
> My garage workshop has been getting very crowded. I am spending good amount of time trying to find things. I have been searching for places where I can store stuff near a particular tool.
> 
> ...


Good idea and well done.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Bandsaw storage*
> 
> My garage workshop has been getting very crowded. I am spending good amount of time trying to find things. I have been searching for places where I can store stuff near a particular tool.
> 
> ...


I'll be copying this immediately! Excellent idea and thanks for the detailed write up.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*Bandsaw scrap box on outfeed*

I have a wall behind my grizzly bandsaw and as I cut wood on it (primarily small pieces and such) the scraps fall behind the band saw and it is hard to reach to clean up the mess on the floor. So I built a box that attaches to the the back of the table. I drilled a hole on the cast iron (hopefully this is ok) and made a quick box from scrap pieces and attached at the outfeed of the band saw using piece of steel with holes drilled in it. I made sure the fence can still move back and forth. I am not sure if this will work if the table is tilted, but I am not worried because I rarely tilt my band saw table.

Now all my small scraps go into this box for easy cleanup.


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## bobkas (May 23, 2010)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Bandsaw scrap box on outfeed*
> 
> I have a wall behind my grizzly bandsaw and as I cut wood on it (primarily small pieces and such) the scraps fall behind the band saw and it is hard to reach to clean up the mess on the floor. So I built a box that attaches to the the back of the table. I drilled a hole on the cast iron (hopefully this is ok) and made a quick box from scrap pieces and attached at the outfeed of the band saw using piece of steel with holes drilled in it. I made sure the fence can still move back and forth. I am not sure if this will work if the table is tilted, but I am not worried because I rarely tilt my band saw table.
> 
> Now all my small scraps go into this box for easy cleanup.


Nice fix, I hate having to move mine out to clean also. Not that the band saw itself is hard to move just all the junk around it.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Bandsaw scrap box on outfeed*
> 
> I have a wall behind my grizzly bandsaw and as I cut wood on it (primarily small pieces and such) the scraps fall behind the band saw and it is hard to reach to clean up the mess on the floor. So I built a box that attaches to the the back of the table. I drilled a hole on the cast iron (hopefully this is ok) and made a quick box from scrap pieces and attached at the outfeed of the band saw using piece of steel with holes drilled in it. I made sure the fence can still move back and forth. I am not sure if this will work if the table is tilted, but I am not worried because I rarely tilt my band saw table.
> 
> Now all my small scraps go into this box for easy cleanup.


Great solution


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*Designing a Parametric Pencil Box with Sliding Lid in Fusion 360*

My best friend just had a baby girl. I am very happy for him. I wanted to give her some wooden toys as a gift. I want to put all the toys in a pencil box and ship it.

To make the pencil box, I first made a fusion 360 model of the pencil box. I use rabbet joints for this model as it is easier for me to do in my shop (in future, will make one with box joints). In fusion 360, I can add parameters such as box dimensions, thickness, rabbet depth, in parameters table and when any of these parameters changes, the 3d model gets updated reflecting the changes.

The design process with fusion360 will help me in following:
1) to visualize the box (by rendering it with different wood textures) for different parameters before building this thing. 
2) as I am creating the model, I get to think how I will be doing each component in the workshop
3) the software will spit out individual parts and the dimensions of those parts.
4) It will help create some cool animations (like the slider mechanisms)
5) I can use this model for future projects by just changing the parameters in the parameter table.

Here are are some images from my design process.


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## RevenantJoiner (Jun 9, 2017)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Designing a Parametric Pencil Box with Sliding Lid in Fusion 360*
> 
> My best friend just had a baby girl. I am very happy for him. I wanted to give her some wooden toys as a gift. I want to put all the toys in a pencil box and ship it.
> 
> ...


Glad to see more examples of applying Fusion 360 to woodworking.

Have you found an easier way to draw the dadoes for the top and bottom (if it is put into a dado vs a rabbet) all at once vs drawing each one? A video of how you drew this would be nice.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*Pencil box/bird house and pigeon rattler toy*

I had sometime to crank out a simple pencil box (or a bird house) that houses a pigeon rattler toy for my friend's new born daughter.

The model for the pencil box is based on my fusion 360 parametric design that I blogged about in my last blog entry. Box is made from scrap pine and baltic birch.

I made the pigeon rattler toy from a design based on a wooden toy sold by someone online (Do not remember the person's name). There is a hole in the pigeon body that is covered by the circular wings. When the toy is shaked, it makes rattling sound. The wood for the pigeon body is made of maple and the wings made from walnut. I was able to find a piece of walnut that had yellow grain (may be sapwood not sure) in it.

Finished with sanding and water based poly. I see that if the poly is allowed to cure (for 30 days) it should become baby safe.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*Japanese pull saw toy for my daughter*

I love my pull saw and my 2 1/2 year old daughter saw me using it many times and wanted to use it.

So I made a quick Toy for her.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

Plasmon360 said:


> *Japanese pull saw toy for my daughter*
> 
> I love my pull saw and my 2 1/2 year old daughter saw me using it many times and wanted to use it.
> 
> So I made a quick Toy for her.


Great Job on the Toy. Here is hoping she will end up using the real saw later in life. It is never to early to get the Kids interested in woodworking and spending Quality time with them in the shop.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

*First time hand plane restoration (Craftsmen/Miller Falls No 4 ) *

A year back when I got interested in handplanes, I bought a Stanley number 4 and number 5 that were in pristine condition. I have been in love with hand planes since then. They leave such as nice finish and its lot of fun working with hand planes. Lately I feel that my planes are so pristine that I dont want to use them, so I have been searching for something used and get better at them before using the pristine ones.

So recently I acquired two rusty looking hand planes for 10 dollars each. The seller did not knew the size. The price was right, so I took a chance and bought them. They were both made in usa.

They turned out to be No 4's. One is craftsmen and other a Stanley. Used lightly but neglected for a long time. Craftsmen no 4 felt to be in much better quality than the Stanley especially the wood. After some looking around turns out the Stanley 4 is type 20 (1962-1967), known for its flimsy construction and typical blue paint. Craftsmen no 4 was actually made by miller falls (Dont know the age, Do you know when it was made?).

I decided to restore the craftsmen no 4 and use it more often than the pristine type 18 smoothing plane.

Here are some pictures when i got them.

The blue one is the Stanley, the red frog one is craftsmen.

















No frog mouth adjustment on this plane. 









Flaky finish (likely shellac)

















Make sure I had all the parts.









Sole looks bad.









Totally neglected blade









That should be "craftsmen tools" logo









After some cleanup. Did not have brasso so just stropped it on my leather with green compound.









Clean the front side of the sole with simple green. Oil it up to prevent rust. 









After sanding sole on sand paper on my tablesaw extension wing. Came out nice, but there is still some deep pitting that needs more sanding. It took me 2 hrs to get here. I was tired and thought to get back to this few months later if I find it a problem.









Sand the sides to remove rust. Shows the "4C" inscribed on the side.









Removed the flaky finish (likely shellac) with the side of the chisel. removed the rest with the acetone.









put two coats and danish oil for the knob handle and tote. Beautiful wood and grain. Dont know which wood. rosewood? If any of you readers know it please let me know.


















The original Craftsmen blade was very badly rusted. I dont have a grinder, so it took a while with sandpaper to get a fresh edge. But it was still not sharp enough. So I used the blade from the other Stanley I bought. Bit of cleaning with sandpaper, wire brush, honing with my diamond plates and stropping, I was able to make it sharp (sharp enough to take my hair of my arms)

With some adjustment it started to make beautiful shavings. It left awesome finish and made the "swish-swish-swish" sound.










My daughter using the long shaving from the plane as her decoration. 









This was my first plane restoration and it was fun and rewarding. The plane gets added to my collection of no4 's. I have set my stanley type 18 as smoothing plane. I will leave the craftsmen no4 for general purpose planing for now. Dont know what to do with the type 20 stanley no4, may be use it as scrub plane?



















Thanks for reading.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Plasmon360 said:


> *First time hand plane restoration (Craftsmen/Miller Falls No 4 ) *
> 
> A year back when I got interested in handplanes, I bought a Stanley number 4 and number 5 that were in pristine condition. I have been in love with hand planes since then. They leave such as nice finish and its lot of fun working with hand planes. Lately I feel that my planes are so pristine that I dont want to use them, so I have been searching for something used and get better at them before using the pristine ones.
> 
> ...


Very nice. I'm glad to see you got your Daughter into the shop.


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## b1v1r (Apr 20, 2017)

Plasmon360 said:


> *First time hand plane restoration (Craftsmen/Miller Falls No 4 ) *
> 
> A year back when I got interested in handplanes, I bought a Stanley number 4 and number 5 that were in pristine condition. I have been in love with hand planes since then. They leave such as nice finish and its lot of fun working with hand planes. Lately I feel that my planes are so pristine that I dont want to use them, so I have been searching for something used and get better at them before using the pristine ones.
> 
> ...


Really nice. I need to find some of these planes waiting to be restored and do the same for myself.


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## Plasmon360 (Feb 16, 2018)

Plasmon360 said:


> *First time hand plane restoration (Craftsmen/Miller Falls No 4 ) *
> 
> A year back when I got interested in handplanes, I bought a Stanley number 4 and number 5 that were in pristine condition. I have been in love with hand planes since then. They leave such as nice finish and its lot of fun working with hand planes. Lately I feel that my planes are so pristine that I dont want to use them, so I have been searching for something used and get better at them before using the pristine ones.
> 
> ...


Hi b1v1r! Yes you should definitely try it. I used offerup.

I feel that now with so much effort put it into the plane, it is like my baby. I would treasure this guy even more than the one bought from the store.

Good luck finding yours!


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