# NEW Woodshop layout advice...



## bsstone13

Ok guys… I need your honest opinion here. I have finished my shop build (just the shell). Now I'm in the process of starting the inside. Take a look at the draft of the current layout that I'm thinking of using. I have been using Grizzly's shop planner and have changed things a hundred times, but I think I have found my favorite. I just need your advice and insight here to make sure I'm not missing something. Thanks in advance for any and all opinions.


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## BillWhite

Plan looks well thought out.
Make SURE that ya have adequate elec., both 120 and 240v outlets at about 4' above the floor.
HVAC? Ceiling and task lighting?
Bill


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## waho6o9

Where's the planer at?


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## bsstone13

Bill:
I just had the sub-panel installed Wednesday. As of right now I have 70 amps to work with. With my shop being a one man show I figured that would be enough and the electrician agreed. At any given time there could be a dust collector, compressor, 1 tool, overhead air cleaner, fridge, and lights at the same time. The electrician said I would be ok. As for HVAC, the shop is attached to the house, so I talked to a HVAC guy and he said I would be ok to extend a couple of branches from my house central unit duct (in attic) into the shop. It won't have a thermostat, but it'll be better than nothing. I'm planning to install OSB on the ceiling and walls (painted white) with evenly spaced shop lights and track lighting here and there for task lighting.

waho6o9:
I have a Craftsman 13" lunchbox style planer that will be stored under my miter bench on a rolling cart.


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## ChefHDAN

Height - wise, will your jointer interfere with cuts to the left of blade? I often have overhangs 3'+ to the left when using sleds etc.

And let me be first, a shop with a fridge AND a crapper-- you SUCK!


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## JulianLech

Great looking workshop. I would put all the machinery on mobile bases. Inevitably there will come a time when you have to rearrange.


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## bsstone13

ChefHDAN:
LOL! Hey I figured if I'm building it, might as well do it right. Even if it is only 20×20 at least I'll have what I need IN the shop. On the jointer height issue, I'll be ok.

Julian:
Thanks. Not all of my machines have mobile bases, but some do. I will definitely consider implementing this to all floor standing tools. My workbench/outfeed will be made of a 3" thick 5' long Hickory slab







with Oak 4×4 legs and oversized pull out drawers, so it will be HEAVY. I guess I could put casters on it, but not sure yet.


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## GregD

+1 on ChefHDan's last comment!

You've got enough ceiling height to store 8' plywood on end? Very cool!

In my garage shop storage has a significant footprint. I have a tool chest/roll away for mechanics tools, hammers, etc. I have a 2'x4'x7' cabinet full of portable power tools, hardware storage, collapsible saw horses, drills, jigs, etc. I have a separate router table because 1. the space under the right wing of my saw is occupied by a chest of drawers pretty much completely filled with table saw accessories, and 2. the router table stand is pretty much full of router table accessories. With tool-specific accessories I very much like being able to move the accessory between the tool and the accessory storage spot without taking a step. You do have quite a bit of storage under your miter station, but the planer will take up a chunk.

I would probably leave out the toilet and fridge and use the ones in the house. Who wants to clean the shop toilet? A sink would be handy.

Don't be shy about leaving some open, undedicated floor space. Then when you have a project with unusual requirements you have space for a temporary special-purpose setup without disturbing your permanent setups.

Then there is clamp storage…

I would consider not having dedicated bench space for the combo sander, spindle sander, and grinder. For the stuff I do I find it adequate to drag out these units only when I need them.


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## bsstone13

Greg:
Yes, I have 9' foot ceilings, so I can store 8' pieces. You make good points. I'm keeping the toilet and fridge. As far as open space, I can move the ts, jointer and workbench if needed. Clamp storage has been on my mind, though. My thought process on this is to add a half (or even full) wall behind where the drill press is for clamps OR take out the bench where the combo sander is and place the band saw there and place the drill press on the bench by the lathe and free up some "open space". I'm not necessarily set on keeping the sanders and grinder in a dedicated place, because space IS valuable. Thank you for bringing up some good points.


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## LIRocket

I agree with Julian about having all the machines on mobile bases and you should have your work bench on casters. This will not only help if you need to rearrange, but also for cleaning. My set-up for the router table, table saw, jointer are the same, but the workbench(out feed table) is rotated, to make it easier when working with larger pieces. The router table and table saw and workbench are all at the same height so it makes one big workstation if necessary, all I need to do is roll the jointer out of the way.


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## ssnvet

My 2 cents…. worth what you paid for it :^p

1. I think you need more bench space. Though you can still use the outfeed table for assembly, you will not want to have to clear the bench every time your rip a board. I have a 22×20 basement shop and I have 3 benches and a work mate, and a 16' long counter and even that seems limiting some times (especially when I have more than one project going on)

2. For this size shop, I question the need for a finishing room…. and then, I wonder if the room you have laid out will prove to small to spray a decent size piece. I'd suggest considering a collapsible spray booth parked in front of your French Doors. But at the very least, make your finishing room door 36" wide.

3. Consider pouring a small pad alongside your back gable end with a "shed" bumping out from the back side of the building for your DC and compressor. These machines don't need air conditioned space, and you can avoid spilling the shops heated/cooled air by discharging the DC exhaust line back into the shop with a pleated filter. You will covet the 20 sq. feet of gained interior space.

4. Don't forget smoke alarms and a large fire extinguisher.

5. You want a utility tub style sink for cleaning up brushes and such.

6. Consider a small dorm room fridge sitting on a wall shelf to recapture another 6 to 7 sq. ft. You're probably really only going to need it for cold ones.

Good luck with the build out. Take lots of pics, as they will help you down the road when you try to remember where the heck you routed this or that in the wall.


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## pintodeluxe

Looks great. Lumber storage above the miter saw will be horizontal racks, correct? I prefer to store lumber vertically because it is much easier to access. With the 20×20 footprint, that might not be possible.


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## MrRon

Shop layouts are difficult to plan. It's only after working in the shop for a while that you will realize repositioning a machine might make the plan more efficient. My big concern is working clearance around machines. It looks like you plan to do a lot of plywood projects, so you need to account for space needed to handle 4×8 sheet goods. It looks like you got the table saw covered. Putting the drill press and band saw on mobile bases will help. On the right bottom corner of your shop, you could add a small pass through door to help when x-cutting long 2x lumber. I have my miter saw set up so I can cut 10' on one side and any length on the other side.


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## JayT

Overall, it looks well thought out. I wish I had that much space.

The one thing that kind of jumped out that hasn't been mentioned yet is the placement of the bench grinder. I don't know how fanatical you are about cleaning up, but unless you are going to keep that area very clean, having a spark thrower that close to sanding dust and lathe chips could be worrisome.

If you are using a dorm fridge next to the sink, you could build a shelf above for the grinder and be well away from most sawdust, as well as having easy access to water for cooling. This would also help keep the grinding grime off the wood. Obviously that wouldn't work if your fridge is/will be full sized.

If you are much better than me about keeping everything ******************** and span, maybe it's not an issue.


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## todd1962

I like it! My shop is 16×20 but I don't have a bathroom or clean room which leaves you with about the same amount of usabe space as me.

Here are some thoughts:

1) Mobile bases for all power tools! I had originally planned on dedicated stations for my tools but I went ahead and put them all on mobile bases. I sure am glad I did!
2) Miter station. Some people really like their miter stations. I don't have one and I don't really seem to need it. Either because of the saw or me I can't get accurate enough cuts. My miter saw stays in the corner unless I'm using it to cut down larger boards. I'm not saying dispense with it. I'm just relating my experience…
3) I have 60A service in my shop. No problems.
4) Lighting. I haven't had the need for task lighting so far. I calculated the anount of light I needed and installed the corresponding number of fixtures. Worked out great.


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## BillWhite

Just my thoughts, but don't EVEN leave out the toilet room and utility sink. Both are invaluable in my shop which is attached to the home. 
Bill


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## HorizontalMike

Shop add-on project: Lean to structure for DC and the John. Add a 4-5ft add-on along one side. You will need every sq.ft. in a 20×20ft shop, IMO.

The above stated by a spoiled WW with 24×30ft shop… One can never have enough space… *;-)*


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## bsstone13

"2. For this size shop, I question the need for a finishing room…. and then, I wonder if the room you have laid out will prove to small to spray a decent size piece. I d suggest considering a collapsible spray booth parked in front of your French Doors. But at the very least, make your finishing room door 36" wide." 
- ssnvet

Matt: You bring up a very good point. I have thought many times as I tried to figure out the best layout… "do I really need a finishing room and what about the potential danger in solvents and such without explosion proof fans and lights?", but then I said to myself, "self, you could always use water-based finishes and you REALLY need a dust-free room!". So, I included a small room big enough to finish small projects. Bigger projects I would just raise the garage door or go outside.

_"Looks great. Lumber storage above the miter saw will be horizontal racks, correct? I prefer to store lumber vertically because it is much easier to access. With the 20×20 footprint, that might not be possible. " 
- pintodeluxe_

Willie: Correct, the lumber rack will be horizontal above the miter station. I will also have a sheet goods storage area for 8' pieces of ply, slabs, and other smaller compartments for smaller pieces and cut-offs.

_"you could add a small pass through door to help when x-cutting long 2x lumber. I have my miter saw set up so I can cut 10 on one side and any length on the other side." 
- MrRon_

MrRon:
I had the same idea, but was planning of installing the "pass through" door into the clean room to avoid cutting a hole in the side of my shop as the outside is finished in smart siding lap board.
_

_"4) Lighting. I haven t had the need for task lighting so far. I calculated the anount of light I needed and installed the corresponding number of fixtures. Worked out great." 
- todd1962_

Todd: For your size shop, how many lights did you install and what size?

As for the comments about bumping out my shop to house the DC and air comp…. I originally had planned for a 16×20 shop lean-to style. I finally got the wife to agree to a 20×20 with a gable style roof to match the house BECAUSE of the fact that I wanted enough room to enclose the DC and air comp. and also have room for the small finishing room. Maybe down the road I can bump the shop out for those things.

P.S. the fridge is a full size single door and it was free so we're sticking with it!


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## shawnmasterson

sparks next to the lathe was my first thought. 70 amps 220 is plenty. I have 60 amps. My TS 3hp, jointer 2hp, DC 3hp, compressor 5hp, are all 220. And to boot I have 10hp rotary converter to power my 5 hp 3phz planer. I have never had a problem.

You mentioned about hooking into the hvac on the house. I wouldn't, you would need at least 2 - 6" runs and at least an 8" return for a space that size. also the return will be pulling ambient dust right into your living space. At the least you will be changing your furnace filter all the time, or worst case you have fine dust settling all over the house.

I'm sorry, you need to lose the bathroom and finishing room. you are loosing 41 sf and that is a lot of space. The next thing I noticed was that your miter bench is under 15' and the saw in the middle. you wont be able to cut 8' either way. if it were me I would lose the bathroom and finishing room and run the miter bench wall to wall under the windows along the 20' wall.

If the bathroom is an absolute must have put it right by the french doors in the corner and use a pocket door so you don't have to be concerned about the swing. As for the fridge and sink, the sink is a must have, and the fridge should be a cube style dorm fridge. Really do you need more than a 12 pack in the shop? Just one last thought If you have a garage put the compressor out there and pipe it onto the shop with pex. Pex is cheap and easy. Then you can size down the DC closet and gain 8-10 sf. The DC closet needs to be vented back into the shop.

I'm sorry if this is harsh, but just the facts.

Edit: sell the free fridge on CL and buy a dorm fridge.


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## craftsman on the lake

My shop is 24×24 ft. Yours is 20×20. I have a few more power tools but I barely have enough room for them against the wall with enough space for table saw and combo out feed/assembly table. You've got bathrooms, finish rooms, dust collection room. I've put all my stuff on wheels just so I can get it out and get around it to clean. I long ago took my miter saw off the wall so that I could reclaim that wall space to put other tools against.

So, I look at your dimensions and it all looks kosher… but I still can't figure that it would look like that much space.


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## bsstone13

Shawn Masterson:
1. What would be wrong with just extending a couple of 5" duct branches into the shop? My thoughts was whatever air the house wanted to push to the shop is fine with me. That would be better than nothing. Also, I'm sure there will be enough air leaks (around garage door and such) to act as a return. Unless it causes a negative pressure environment in the house, I don't see a problem. 
2. Why do I need to vent the dust closet back into the shop?
3. I have 70A with all 110 tools. 
4. Bathroom is fixed. Plumbing already in the concrete.

Craftsman on the lake:
I'm trusting Grizzly's shop planner!


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## mbs

I agree with many of the comments already made. One idea I haven't read is to move your TS, jointer and planer closer to the big doors and use the outside space additional working area.

I don't think your bandsaw is in a place that would allow you to push a long board through it.

I suggest situating the miter station so the end of a long board can stick out a door way. I don't think you could trim off the end of a 7' board the way it's pictured.

I don't think you will get much cooling effect by running a duct to your garage without running a air return to take the moisture out of the air. You probably have enough leakage that it will be expensive and inadequate.


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## Dal300

The only thing that sticks to me is blocking access between the drill press and the toilet. That little triangle bench doesn't get you much space, but my personal preference is to be able to walk around every tool set up in the shop. That just makes it easier to access all sides as needed.

When I first set up my 28X32 space I put tools in groups and had access around each "Island" except one.
That was the drill press, grinder, machinist vice and sharpening station.
It got to be a real pain to trace my steps back around when cleaning up metal dust or filings and chips from the vice, drill press, and especially the sharpening station. I finally moved the sharpening station to the far end of the shop and put it against the wall so that cleanup was limited to the area in front of the station and on the aluminum back splash behind..

YMMV and also your preferences. Take this with a grain of salt or go for it, it's just my way of doing things.


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## shawnmasterson

Without a return air it won't do jack. You would be more efficient to do a unit like a hotel room. I still stand with the fact that the pooper is in a place that ruins the flow of a shop. Cement is easily chipped out and re-poured, or cap the pipe and have more space. a pooper in the shop is a want not a need. Don't get me wrong I would love to have a craper in the shop, but with a 26×30 there is barely enough room for machines, let alone to lose 15 sf to have one.


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## English

I agree with Shawn, Your HVAC from the house without a return will not very well and it may cause problems for you in the house. My shop is detached from the house. I have a window style heat pump in the wall, check the internet. They start around $350.00 and you just frame a hole in the wall. My shop is 26×28 and my unit is 8,000 BTU.

Also it looks like you will have to open the french doors to saw anything over about 5 feet. Without the toilet where it is now you could move your table saw to the middle of the room and have room to saw 8 ft stock.


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## TheFridge

Step 1- drill a hole in the wall.

Step 2- put a hose in that hole.

Step 4- attach a funnel to said hose.

Step 5- screw the funnel to the wall.

And finally, step 6- urinate in said funnel.

Voila! You now have a place to go #1!

Yay! Only 6 easy steps!


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## redSLED

Interesting layout, it makes sense - I like it. My only concern is I think you would need an assembly/glue-up table so that your workbench doesn't get sacrificed to those functions when you need it, though your space is already getting tight.

To add things to the mix, below is my imaginary idealized 21×21 square-space layout for a 1-man (me) desired future shop 2-3 yrs from now, done in MS Excel. And it goes to show - layout ideas can be numerous! Scale is 6" squares. The layout is intended for producing furniture and casegoods. Since this layout is ficticious, some items are omitted because I don't know where they'll be - like an entrance, bathroom and slop sink - however, I'd just rotate the layout to accommodate the entrance to be between the finishing area and the wood supply area. Also, big tools not shown are a bandsaw, jointer and lathe because I don't own them yet - but they could be incorporated in the layout easily. And yes, I know, I forgot to put in the beer fridge.


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## bsstone13

I agree with you guys about the openness, mobility, and flow in the shop. The more I hear from you guys the more I think my finishing room is too small and do I really need it, but man it would be nice to have an area for glue ups and a place for projects to dry after painting (obviously small projects). I guess with a 20×20 I can't have everything. The question I keep asking myself is how often would I use the finishing room. On the other hand, if I'm storing finishing supplies, folding and unfolding a collapsible booth, and having to clean up before and after each time I paint or finish a project why not throw up a couple walls and leave everything ready to use in a dedicated place??

The bathroom is definitely a want and not a need. The reason I plumbed for it is because like I said the shop is attached to my house and if we ever sold our house the new shop space could easily be converted into an apartment or mother in law suit. The location of the bathroom was strictly based on a very early shop layout which has changed since the slab was poured. Like they say hind sight is 20/20.

I do want to get the most out of my shop. I think what I'll do is leave the bathroom where it is simply because I don't want the extra expense and time delay. I'm fine with it. Also, I'll leave out the finishing room and use a collapsible booth and extend the miter bench. I'll place the drill press and band saw on the wall to give me more room for an assembly/out feed table and free up my workbench from that task. This way I can always add walls instead of wishing I didn't have them. I'll re-design the layout in shop planner and post it to give a visual.

I really do appreciate all the comments and opinions.


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## joey502

I have to agree with the HVAC comments. Without a return you won't see much effect, add the return and your house or filters fill with dust. If your filter is clogged then the airflow blows…. ha

Another thought. Is your system sized for your home + another 400sq feet? If the system is not big enough for both spaces then you could have a whole new set of issues. The units run constantly in an effort to keep temps correct or worse the comfort level in your home is undesirable.


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## Bieser

I work out of a 16×24 foot shop. The space is very doable for woodworking. I am also concerned about the finishing room. I would love to have one in my shop but I see no way of doing it with the space. I think I will build a folding space on the wall I could pull out that would be dust free. I have seen people use those cheap canopy tents and wrap them in plastic. What I currently do is just clean the shop up real good and then finish. I don't use any spray finishing either. Check out my shop space to give you an idea on square footage. I also have a video on youtube here. I have changed some things in my space and will be doing an update. Another thought is maybe move the dust collector to a shed outside the building that would free up some valuable space.


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## knotscott

That looks really good…..honestly, I'm jealous!

One thought though….Is there any way to have the door to your paint room open out where there's more space?


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## MrRon

"Step 1- drill a hole in the wall.

Step 2- put a hose in that hole.

Step 4- attach a funnel to said hose.

Step 5- screw the funnel to the wall.

And finally, step 6- urinate in said funnel.

Voila! You now have a place to go #1!

Yay! Only 6 easy steps!" 
- TheFridge
What about #2?


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## NormG

Congrats, looks great keep the lew and fridge


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## bsstone13

For you guys that were opposed to a bathroom and finishing room… is this kinda what you had in mind?

This is A:










Between the two plans, which one do you guys think would work better? A or B?

This is B:


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## Bieser

I think you will appreciate the room more without the finishing room. I would love a bathroom for mine. I would never have a reason to leave the shop. What about making your TS out feed your glue up table. I do that it is on wheels 4'4' and I can wheel it into the middle of the room? That might help free up some space for a big planer? or future tools? I know its not the norm but you may also consider the TS up against the wall? I do this also. If you think about it you can only rip so far to the fence side. All in all I would say have a general layout and hold off maybe 6 months before you run all your permanent dust collection just in case your change your mind. I have moved mine around a few times in a couple years and I just did it again with a few things. I am set now with my space and am in the process of running all ducting for collector.


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## shawnmasterson

A is perfect 2 thumbs up.


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## English

I like A Better just give yourself room to handle long boards at you TS and jointer.


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## Rayne

I love the layout and if I had the room, a finishing room would be nice as long as it had the necessary ventilation. 
I have a few questions and thoughts…
1) I see a lot of Benches on the plan, so where are all of your clamps, screwdrivers, saws, glue, measuring tools, pencils, you know all the small things you need to be stored away?
2) How is the Dust Collection Ducts being routed? (maybe it was mentioned, but I didn't see it). Ceiling?
3) Any dedicated space for a typical trash can?
4) All tools on a mobile base would help reorganization in the future along with the ability to take a tool outside if you don't feel comfortable working inside the shop.


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## LJRay

"Step 1- drill a hole in the wall.

Step 2- put a hose in that hole.

Step 4- attach a funnel to said hose.

Step 5- screw the funnel to the wall.

And finally, step 6- urinate in said funnel.

Voila! You now have a place to go #1!

Yay! Only 6 easy steps!"

Growing up, my friend's father had this setup in his shop…


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## knotscott

If the garage is attached or near the house, I agree with those who don't think a bathroom is necessary. You'll not likely to ever regret having a little extra space. OTOH, if the nearest bathroom is 100' from you, it could make sense….I like Mr. Ron's idea!

Will the paint booth area in plan "A" in post #33 have plastic walls?


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## bsstone13

The shop is attached to the end of my garage with no way to get in the house from within the shop. You must exit the shop and walk probably 25 ft to the nearest door.

And yes in plan A the paint area would have some kind of booth in front of the window.


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## JoeinGa

A sink in the shop would be nice… but I cant foresee such an emergency that I couldn't make the 100' dash to get to the toilet in the house.


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## shawnmasterson

I love the pee funnel. My dad had one. If I had to pee that bad I would pee in the sink and rinse it down.


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## RussellAP

Looks good. You want the miter saw close to where you bring the wood in to cut to length. After that it pretty much depends on what you're going to do next. I like to bring the wood for a project in my garage and set it on the floor where I can pick it up and have the miter saw right there. After cutting to length it's much easier to move it around the shop to the next step….whatever that may be.


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## Philr

Shawn,

On the surface your plan looks good but on closer look I think you will have problems. If the area is currently an empty shell, get some boxes and arrange them the size of your equipment, utilities, etc. and then lay them out in the shop.

Let me give you something to consider.

Toilet closet min width where you can sit comfortably will be30-36 inches lets say 36. Sink will be about 2 ft but the fridge will probably be 30", table saw another 30", outfeed table say 5 ft. Now add it up

toilet 3'
sink 2'
outfeed 5'
saw 3'

total 13' shop 20' wide walkaround saw 3.5' longest board 4-5'

Another thing, switch the sheet good area with the DC/Air comp room. This will make for a shorter run and save money.

You don't mention what is outside your shop. What the over hang is, or where you are going to put HVAC.

It is hard to come up with a good design and you are doing right by asking others. So many things to consider. By best advice is to determine what you make the most of and then make that the main area.

Phil


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## bsstone13

After designing Plan A (above) I'm liking the openness. I honestly don't think I REALLY need a bathroom and it's ok if I leave it out for now. I can always add it since it is plumbed. One thing I was trying to accomplish in the original design was to have the lumber rack, miter saw, and jointer in a cluster. In the new design (Plan B above) I've seem to have lost that. What do you guys think? Also, a fellow LJ said I should vent my dust closet back out into the shop. Why is that? Any advice on proper setup of a dust closet containing a dust collector and air compressor?

Thanks!


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## cathode

Turn your table saw and jointer by 45 degrees so you can make use of the extra length in the event that you're processing long boards. Geometry is your friend.


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## English

If you look around the clear vue site at pictures of clear vue installations you will see many examples of returning the air to the shop. You need it returned to keep the air balance in your shop. If it is not returned you closet will be under a positive pressure and will reduce the effectiveness of your DC. All you need to do is install re turn grill from the closet to the shop. but Install a baffle to keep the sound from coming back with the air. There are very good examples of this at the clear vue site. It is best to dump the air in the closet and return it threw a baffle, it will help keep the motors in the closet cool.


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## bsstone13

Thanks, John! I appreciate the explanation and site reference. I'll check it out.


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## Redoak49

My shop has been a constant change in design over the years as the type of projects that I do has changed.

1. I think that everything that you have should be on rollers and be able to be moved out of the way or into a different configuration. Even my 3 hp cabinet saw is on wheels and can be moved.

2. You appear to be a little short on storage. I either have too many tools or not enough storage and is a constant battle. Are you planning cabinets? Several of my tools such as the oscillating spindle sander is on a mobile base with storage in the base. I think that this works out well.

3. A well thought out plan is great but as in war, a "no battle plan survives the first contact with the enemy" As time goes on, you will likely make significant changes in the shop design.

4. I really like the idea that someone posted about making boxes to simulate the layout of the shop.

Good Luck with the new shop.


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## todd1962

Shawn,

I have 9 4' 2-bulb T8 fixtures. Plenty of light for me.

Todd


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## Philr

Shawn,
Since you can use only one tool at a time, you may want to consider implementing "quick change" systems for similar tools. For example why have 2 stations for your sanders? There are two solutions that will eliminate one of the stations.

solution #1 Mount one sander on a piece of plywood and the other sander on the other side of the same board. Use a metal rod or 2 lazy Susan casters to support the plywood and tools as you turn one over for use the other rotates below the counter top.

solution #2 Place each machine on its own plywood sheet. Then build in slots for the tools to slide into. When you need a tool, you slip out the one on top and slip in the one you want.


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## Kentuk55

Looks like you have a very nice layout Shawn. I just did a "re-do" on my shop because I gained another 9'x 29' of space. You can change your layout, like you said a hundred times, it's true. Once you get it set up how you like it, you may change something again later. That's just how woodworkers roll. LOL…. New tool/s mean, new set-ups, sometimes, etc. 
Good luck, have fun. I think you have a nice floor plan, imo. Work/Play safe. Keep makin dust.


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## OldLarry

So much depends on what you make. Putting the duct collector and compressor in the same space may not be the best. The compressor needs to be kept clean. Both need good ventilation, a fan in an outside wall? Bandsaws need plenty of swing room for many projects, mobile base? A dedicated European style bench would be really nice for many home projects. No matter the size of the space it will soon be too small.


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## Violentlee

The one thing that I'm seeing, from an auto painter's background - the door that is the entry for you clean room should swing the other way. When you open that door as it is quickly, the dust will want to fly into the room. When you close it quickly, you'll be stirring up what's already in there. If the door swings OUT from the room, any dust inside would likely be pulled towards the doorway, not towards what might be wet and a dust magnet.

Vance


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## cracknpop

For what its worth, here are a few of my thoughts…

Think of your typical projects you have worked on in the past and see yourself working on in the near future. Will your shop layout accommodate your typical project and material size? If the biggest thing you plan to work on is a hope chest and you don't buy lumber longer than 8' then your layout is likely just fine. If you plan to build dining room tables and use 12' lumber, then maybe not. Do you tend to work on one project at a time or have several going at various stages? Latter requiring more space.

Speaking of multiple projects at one time, how often in the past have you sprayed/finished a project and then went back to creating sawdust on another project? If you are like many and put on a coat of finish and then take a break (why not, the fridge is nearby), do you really need a dedicated finishing room?

Unless you are setting up your shop for a specific, repetitive production, I would put every tool on wheels, including the work/assembly bench. All this time and effort put into designing the perfect layout and I bet you change your layout before you wear out a new sanding belt.

I have a 24×36 workshop and just added a 16×24 addition. I am glad every tool is on casters and I can put them where I want them depending on the project. As someone else mentioned, rolling cabinets under tools like my OSS hold sanding supplies. My assembly table (on locking casters) has drawers on one side and clamp storage on the other. I HVLP spray lacquer on most projects in temp spray area and take 15 min break. And yes, I have a sink, toilet, AND shower in my shop. I too spent considerable time working on a layout before deciding on casters and so glad I did. My point here is, I have a shop twice the size as yours and I still would not set my tools in a fixed location. But that is me and I like the flexibility (like the time I set up a 10' radius pivot for my router to cut arcs).

As for HVAC, consider the hotel/small apartment type system instead of connecting to your house HVAC.

The bottom line is this is your shop. Think of the projects you want to create and the way you typically work. Will this layout work? Then set it up and start making some sawdust. When you are sipping a cold one from your fridge while you are letting that first coat of finish dry, you will likely be thinking of how you can rearrange your shop. :^)


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## bsstone13

I appreciate all the input into making the most out of my shop. Now is the time to try to get it right, but like a lot of you have said I will most likely change it again after I set it up the first time. I will take everything that has been mentioned into consideration. You guys give good advice! The next thing on my thought process list will be dust collection layout and what you guys do to capture dust at every tool (especially the tricky ones). Would that be another topic or continue it here?


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## Dtugboat

Shawn, I like your planned layout…. however not to start an argument but just my feeling.. not all tools should be on wheels, especially in a shop your size. Namely the work bench and the tablesaw, I feel stongily should remain wheel less. In your case I love your plans for your heavy work bench, 3" hickory slabs for the top 4×4 posts for the legs, your obviously building this not to move while working on it. I feel putting wheels on it would defeat your purpose. I'm familiar with different ways to keep the wheels off the ground when not being used, however then they are in the way as you work at and around the bench. I feel my table saw should also should not even budge as I use it… a safety thing in addition to better more accurate cuts. Now powermatic has come out with a possible working solution… wheels mounted inside the cabinet. Have never seen this in person. I know small shops need the flexibility the wheels provide, but your shop is not small


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## bsstone13

With a lot of thought and a realistic layout here's what I've decided on….










I actually place my tools in the places I originally wanted them and taped off some things like where my workbench would go, the bathroom and finishing room. Then I took out the finishing room and left the bathroom and it still seemed tight so I also took out the bathroom. So, this is what I came up with and I think it will work and give me plenty of room. In the future when I finish the lean-to, I might place the dust collector out there and close it in. I will run a duct to that wall and cap it for future use. What do you guys think?


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## AandCstyle

Shawn, consider moving the sink to the other end of the miter station counter, closer to the finishing area. That will make it a bit easier for washing out brushes, etc.


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## bsstone13

Art, that makes perfect sense. Yes, I will. Not real sure what I was thinking.


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## Carbide

I don't know what sort of climate you live in but it looks like the in-feed side of the table saw is a little close to the wall. I understand that you can open the doors if you are cutting anything longer than 3 feet. But do you want to open the doors all the time even in cold weather just to rip a 5 foot board? I would try to lay the saw and jointer out on a diagonal of the shop to get more cutting length. Also you could use overhead storage for your sheet goods to allow just a little bit more floor space. I have an overhead sheet goods rack in my projects. You might want to check it out. I can store 9 sheets of 3/4" plywood laying flat with less of a chance to warp. I have a shop slightly larger than your layout and it is just way too cramped for me. I personally would skip the finishing room. If you olny plan on finishing very small items then it would be too cumbersome squeezing around your project in such a small area. I wait for the dust to settle a day or so and then shoot away. I have had very few issues with dust in my finish. Having a specific room for your compressor and dust collector is a great idea. The three tools you have in the upper left corner could easily be brought out from storage when needed and that space utilized for your band saw and drill press allowing you more floor space. Just a few suggestions. I'm sure you already have it stuck in your head how you will do it. I'm sure whatever you decide will suit your needs and not mine.


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