# ProCom Vent-Free Dual Fuel Infrared Radiant Wall Heater Safe For Dusty Environment?



## retired_guru (Sep 5, 2014)

I found this discussed in a YT video by a woodworking peer who recently installed this in his workshop. The cost is very reasonable and since I have a natural gas furnace, and an unused connection in the dungeon, this seems like a good choice for me. What I am concerned about is combustion from wood dust in the air, plus the fact that I would have to locate this close enough to the floor to be hit with concrete and saw dust from moving around down the there. Is this a safe choice in a dusty environment?﻿


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## retired_guru (Sep 5, 2014)

I just got off the phone with one of my clients that sells and installs heating systems. They told me one of the by-products of ventless gas heating is moisture. Enough so that some of their clients have mentioned problems with tools rusting. Hmm.. So much for that idea. >_>﻿


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Paul,
I've used the one you pictured for 7 years in my shop. No problems with dust or rust. 
I've heard the stories about excess moisture but have not experienced it at all. 
Mine runs 24/7 during the winter to keep our well pump plumbing warm. 
There is always a small window slightly open, which MAY alleviate any moisture problem.
I'm in Northern AZ, but my BIL in IL also runs one in his shop and has no problems either.


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## retired_guru (Sep 5, 2014)

> Paul,
> I ve used the one you pictured for 7 years in my shop. No problems with dust or rust.
> I ve heard the stories about excess moisture but have not experienced it at all.
> Mine runs 24/7 during the winter to keep our well pump plumbing warm.
> ...


Thanks for your experience, Gene. When you get a chance, take a look at my blog for pics on what my dungeon looks like. It's a 100+ year old railroad boom house, poorly built with field stone walls and some bare earth in the old coal bin area. In the heat of the summer it's a cool 62 F and very damp. Throughout the winter it's drier, but the temperature doesn't get above 50 F. Water seepage from outdoors still occurs even below freezing. To open a window, even a crack would, defeat the effort I am putting into sealing air leaks and insulation between the house and stone.

When I talked with my client, I found a better choice to be a vented unit, which drew outside air for combustion through the same pipe it vented exhaust out. The cost was too high for me. Nope. Will have to try something else. :/


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

In that environment, your choice to not use the ProComm unit seems quite wise. 
I failed to mention that a slightly open window is mandatory when using a non vented heater due to possible CO build up.

Would "base board" heaters, mounted above any possible moisture contamination (horrors) work for you? Maybe a ceiling mounted electric unit? Something like this one?


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## retired_guru (Sep 5, 2014)

> In that environment, your choice to not use the ProComm unit seems quite wise.
> I failed to mention that a slightly open window is mandatory when using a non vented heater due to possible CO build up.


I was already aware of the need for ventilation, so you didn't fail to mention what I needed to know. This was a concern of mine when I was first looking at the unit.



> Would "base board" heaters, mounted above any possible moisture contamination (horrors) work for you? Maybe a ceiling mounted electric unit? Something like this one?
> 
> - Gene Howe


Gene, I know I have options. Whether they are affordable for me is the qualifier. Electricity is very expensive in our community. Also, my ceilings are so low that a ceiling mounted heater of the smallest size would blow into my face and I would bump my head into it. I think this winter I will have to stick with what I have and see how far I can go with it. I bought some tubes of construction adhesive (good to 0 F) and Titebond III wood glue that can handle down to 45 F. We'll see how they work.


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