# Favorite method for attaching a table top



## tywalt (Dec 13, 2017)

I recently finished a personal project to make an entire coffee table without using power tools. It is mostly oak from an in-laws old farm house in WV. In keeping with a "all hand tools" theme, curious to know what you guys/gals like for attaching your table tops. I'm not opposed to putting screws in it or using metal fasteners/hardware but interested to know other's thoughts. I've got some enough scraps of the same wood that I cut some buttons out of and chisel out some mortises in the apron but I've never actually tried that.


















Any opinions welcome.


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## Delete (May 19, 2017)

Very nice, I like that combination of styles, is that an oriental flavor I see in the base joinery and tapered legs, nice look. Tabs (you call them buttons I guess) are the most common method of attaching solid wood tops, they will give in two directions when the wood moves, without any damage, but judging from the dovetailing on the top end pieces you know all about wood movement. There is a picture of the tabs I mentioned in the other table top post today.


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## tywalt (Dec 13, 2017)

Thanks Carlos. Tabs (not sure if I'm the only one that calls them buttons) were what I was planning on but don't have any practical experience with them. Just needed someone to confirm I was headed the right direction.

Regarding the design, it was a pure and unadulterated combination of all my favorite kinds of joinery to cut with very little regard for keeping with a specific style. I got a new-to-me set of marples chisels just before starting this table and wanted to put them through their paces with a boat load of mortises. Paul Sellers did a similar table years ago and I always liked his design so some of it was stolen from him.


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

For small table i use a "z" shaped fastener with one screw hole. the other end goes into a groove in the side rails. Rockler sells them. Prices can vary.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> For small table i use a "z" shaped fastener with one screw hole. the other end goes into a groove in the side rails. Rockler sells them. Prices can vary.
> 
> - Peteybadboy


+1 or figure 8 fasteners,i get them on amazon much cheaper than rockler.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> For small table i use a "z" shaped fastener with one screw hole. the other end goes into a groove in the side rails. Rockler sells them. Prices can vary.
> 
> - Peteybadboy


I also use the z-clips(off amazon). If you want to stick to all hand tools, just use a regular screwdriver and 1/8" chisel to chop the slot. Predrill the hole with an eggbeater if needed.


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## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

Sorry, I really dont have anything to offer on table attachment methods, I did however go to your profile to see if you've posted that table on Projects,
That really is a superb table, great workmanship in that.
Nice job
Regards
Anthony


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## BFamous (Jan 26, 2018)

> For small table i use a "z" shaped fastener with one screw hole. the other end goes into a groove in the side rails. Rockler sells them. Prices can vary.
> 
> - Peteybadboy
> 
> ...


+1 more on figure 8 or z clips through amazon.

and beautiful table great job!


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## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

Another +1 for the z-clips. Ive used them on my dining table, a side table, and a coffee table with great success. Just remember to cut a groove on the inside of your apron. I've heard of folks using a biscuit jointer to cut a groove if they forgot to cut the groove. Though if you are just using hand tools that might not be a good option.


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## edapp (Jun 27, 2014)

Really like the figure 8 fasteners. No chance of slippage or misfitting them like the z clips (though the z clips are great too).

However, with the figure 8s, you need to make sure they are oriented in such a way to allow expansion (the holes in the fasteners need to be parallel to the long grain). If you install them perpendicular to the long grain they aren't going to help your expansion problem.


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## LittleShaver (Sep 14, 2016)

While Z clips and figure 8s are great, I would choose the button approach in keeping with the design and hand tool approach.


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## tywalt (Dec 13, 2017)

Thanks for the feedback all! I think i'm settled on wooden handcut tabs/buttons and mortises in the apron to keep some semblance of continuity to the design.

I am very familiar with figure 8's but these z-clips are news to me. I'll have to give those a shot on the next large panel top I make. Gotta love this forum and all the knowledge out there (even if it is something as simple as a little metal fastener).


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## Blindhog (Jul 13, 2015)

If you want to stay with the hand made theme, this works well…..................


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## mitch_56 (Feb 7, 2017)

Sliding dovetails for me. A much more elegant solution, embraces expansion and contraction without resorting to screws or hardware, you can do it without glue and have an easy knockdown table if you want. Probably quite a bit stronger than buttons, but I don't know of any science backing that opinion, and it's not as though tables are often hauled around.
They also allow you to grow your skill a bit, and whenever a woodworker looks at the table from underneath, they'll be pleasantly surprised.

Probably too late to be incorporated into the beautiful table pictured in the OP, but perhaps next time, as a table that nice deserves them!


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## tywalt (Dec 13, 2017)

Mitch, I'm having trouble envisioning how to attach a top with sliding dovetails. Would you cut the tails into the apron and slot into the top? Wouldn't the slot be visible from the side of the table or is there another way to do that and I am just not grasping it? Regardless, that is an intriguing idea.


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## mitch_56 (Feb 7, 2017)

> Mitch, I m having trouble envisioning how to attach a top with sliding dovetails. Would you cut the tails into the apron and slot into the top? Wouldn t the slot be visible from the side of the table or is there another way to do that and I am just not grasping it? Regardless, that is an intriguing idea.
> 
> - tywalt


That's the most common option. The aprons are left 1/2" (or whatever) tall, and that extra 1/2" (or whatever) becomes the tail.
The pins are cut into the underside of the top, and, again, in the most common variant, are "through" on one side of the table. On that through side, it's common to custom fit a small plug from an offcut with a good grain match to fill the gap so it doesn't show.

In the less common variant, a sliding dovetail can be cut so it is not through on either side, as shown in this video from the skilled hands of Dorian Bracht, about blind housed dovetails:





but I wouldn't try to imitate Dorian on your first go, have some practice runs first. Also, there has to be enough room for the lead-in to the housing area (you'll understand after you watch the video), and in a standard table design, that isn't possible, so this variant generally isn't an option for tables.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I favor the figure 8 fastener. I mount it into a shallow hole drilled into the top edge of the apron, extending out, under the table top. I use a Forstner to drill a bit oversized from the dimension of the fastener. If you use an oversized bit you don't need to chisel out the outer edge as shown below.

This explains it pretty well.


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## tywalt (Dec 13, 2017)

> In the less common variant, a sliding dovetail can be cut so it is not through on either side, as shown in this video from the skilled hands of Dorian Bracht, about blind housed dovetails:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now that is a VERY cool joint! It is far too late to attempt on this table… but I'm already trying to think up another build to use that on. Thanks for the heads up Mitch.


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