# Banding a Round Table



## Colfax (Jan 19, 2008)

I'm going to be building a round table that has a 2" MDF core and will be veneered on the top and bottom. I need to band the edge. Is it best to use very thin banding or veneer? What is the best method for applying it to the core?


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

A lot of people like the iron on edge bands, they are easy to use. If you want to use your own wood then slice it around 1/8" thick and you can use ratcheting straps with cauls or a thousand rubber bands woven together to hold it. A good idea is to sharply bevel the edges of the band at the connection point so you can more easily sand it down for a seamless look.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

There's no best way, but you can get 2" wide pre-glued banding if a thin
1/40" veneer is acceptable to you. That square edge won't be durable
though.

1/8" to 1/4" thick solid wood banding can be bent on a hot pipe to the
general shape fairly easily, depending on species and tightness of the
radius you need. Clamping the wood to the edge is tricky though - you
can make a ton of your own clamps, use bike tires, surgical tubing, etc.

You can fix a large disk to the top of the table with nails or dowels 
around the edge and another similar arrangement underneath, then
use the nails or dowels to anchor your rubber bands, surgical tubes
or bike tires. To some extent masking tape can be used if the 
edging is accurately pre-bent. The brown package tape with the
water-activated glue can be used as well.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

MDF is most vulnerable to edge impacts.

I would avoid the veneer on the edge as this will afford no protection.

I've used the 1/8" solid wood banding as well, but this is problematic to clamp.

Another option is to use a wider band of 3/4" or 1" solid wood (2" Thick) that can be rabitted or biscuit jointed to the edge. This can be cut on a bandsaw in sections to form the edge. 
The advantages are that the edge is solid and you can route a nice table profile which will also make the veneer look seamless at the corners.


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## tsmccull (Aug 28, 2011)

I veneered the top of an old 44" round table with cherry boards about 1/2" thick and ended up with it approximately 1-1/2" thick when I was done. Cut some more cherry about 1/8" thick on the tablesaw for an edge veneer. Sears sells a Craftsman rebranded version of the Wolfcraft one-hand ratcheting band clamp (Amazon and others have it also). That band clamp works very well for applying pressure evenly all around a table in order to clamp fairly thick material for gluing (don't think I'd try it for true veneer, since it might crush really thin material). 1/8" material for edge veneer was thin enough to bend around the circumference, but thick enough to withstand the pressure of the clamp. It's been in place for a couple of years and I haven't seen any delaminating anywhere yet.


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## vipond33 (Jul 25, 2011)

In our shop we often veneer the edge for looks and ease of application but prior to that we put a 1/8" square piece of solid in a rebate on the top and bottom edge. This goes on easily with tape, is cut back flush and allows for light edge shaping as well as providing impact resistance. For a more durable edge make your veneer strip 2 or 3 ply with a cross band layer.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Nice solution there Gene, I wouldn't have thought of that. 
I like the idea of having a slightly eased corner too!

This is a great website!


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

> In our shop we often veneer the edge for looks and ease of application but prior to that we put a 1/8" square piece of solid in a rebate on the top and bottom edge. This goes on easily with tape, is cut back flush and allows for light edge shaping as well as providing impact resistance. For a more durable edge make your veneer strip 2 or 3 ply with a cross band layer.
> 
> - vipond33


Gene, I'm trying to follow your explanation here but its not sinking in. Any way you could show this in a sketch maybe??


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## PBWilson1970 (Jan 23, 2020)

For clamping the edge, you can use bicycle inner tubes sliced lengthwise and wrapped around the tabletop. They are surprisingly effective.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

I


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

I used 1/8" strips and did these in 2 halves, using a rachet strap to clamp.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Did anyone notice this posting was in 2011? and Christopher never responded with his chosen solution.


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

> Did anyone notice this posting was in 2011? and Christopher never responded with his chosen solution.
> 
> - LesB


Les, the fact that its an older post doesn't in my mind change the fact that I'm asking for help from someone who took the time to respond to the thread. Good info and advice for me are invaluable and appreciate it when given.
I brought it to the top because I needed help and this was the closest thread that I could find with similar content. On other forums I often asked if I did a search for it?


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

I for one didn't see the original. And learning from the past has no experation date.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Nope, missed that completely.


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

> I used 1/8" strips and did these in 2 halves, using a rachet strap to clamp.
> 
> - LeeRoyMan


When doing this I'm thinking the hardest part was to get the sizing of both halves just right? Did you use some packing tape over the wood so the straps wouldn't stick?


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

> I for one didn t see the original. And learning from the past has no experation date.
> 
> - ibewjon


Thank you!!


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> I used 1/8" strips and did these in 2 halves, using a rachet strap to clamp.
> 
> - LeeRoyMan
> 
> ...


I just kept the glue off the wood by not over glueing. Packing tape would be a good idea though.
I attached my first half, then after it dried I dry fit the second half (using the straps) before gluing it.


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

Thank you very much for the reply Lee.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

"Gene, I'm trying to follow your explanation here but its not sinking in. Any way you could show this in a sketch maybe??"

Pat.

My misunderstanding as it looked like you were seeking a response from Gene. 
You make a good point about searching first for answers before asking; more people should do that. There is "centuries" of knowledge here which is generously given. However a reactivation of a 9 year old posting is not likely to be seen by the original poster or those who responded. The last time either of those people (Christopher or Gene) had any activity on this site was over 5 years ago. Possibly a personal message to them would have worked also. However, as usual you got some great responses so no harm and no foul.


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