# How do I get the perfect high gloss finish?



## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

I have been trying to get the perfect finish for a long time, and have yet to succeed. I've tried lacquer, poly, shellac, and a combination of a few other things, but I still get get it right. 
I was talking to a guy the other day and he had figured out how to get the perfect finish without buffing/polishing. He just put the finish on, and it cam out looking like a piece of polished glass. He won't tell me what it is (he created it, and wants it to be a secret), and I can respect that, but it's killing me that I can't figure it out. He said it is not poly or lacquer, so I have no idea what it is.
Any suggestions? I'm willing to try anything. Also, I've tried polishing lacquer and poly, but I can't get it looking like a mirror. Is there a really good technique that I could try?

Thanks


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Wetsanding is what works for me.

I use siaair pads up to 4000 grit.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

have you try´d to use a spraygun

usualy it takes several (7-10 ) layers of lacks before its get to look like glass 
with lightsanding between each layer 
it doesn´t matter what you use pensel or spraygun

Dennis


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

not sure what you call high gloss, I can use a good automotive clear and assuming I have filled the grain and have a really nice surface, I can spray it to look like a super slick automotive finish, but I have a spray booth and controled environment
I have also used the epoxies. Appied a good coat then sanded it super smooth then in a controlled enviorment ,so not to get any dust, I have thinned the final coat with some acetone about 20 % and got a super slick finish, it will flow out like glass. The issue at home is creating an environment that is totally dust free for the time it takes it to dry, much easier said than done.
I am just thinking out loud here, one of the things you will want is for it to set up dust free quickly, the automotive stuff does that , as it is catalyzed , also the automotive clears are a bit higher sheen than wood finishes, on a scale of 1 to 100 , wood finishes hit about 94 or so , auto clears are in the 96 to 98 range, my guess now thinking on it, is it is probably an auto clear.
The main reason for rubbung a finish is to do a final level and remove any debris , in a home enviorment a wiped, or sprayed finish that is perfect, might be a bit of a stretch, just my.02


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

@nite-are you talking about those pads used to polish bowling balls? I might have to pick some up to try.

@Dennis-I do not have access to a spray gun right now. (lack of funds, and a cramped shop), will aerosol work just as well (minwax)? Thanks for the advice on the coats.

@Charles-Does automotive clear coat come in aerosol cans? If so, I'll definetly try some. I think I can manage the dust well enough. My shop is closed off from the rest of the garage, so I'll clean the area I want to spray in very throughly, and try it that way.

Thanks for the advice guys.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

no the auto clear is not in a spray can, and besides it being a catalyzed finish, yuo really don't want to spray it in your house, its pretty tough stuff, we have what would look like Haz_Mat suits and full face respirators, was just saying its possible thats what your friend is using.
In as much as using spray cans to get a high gloss finish, not saying you couldnt do it, but spray cans have very low solids, and are expensive, but we could possibly find a "creative" way for the home guys to get a good finish, let me ponder on this , could be fun for all,


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Ponder on, I'm anxious to hear what you come up with.  I'll do a little digging to and see if I can come up with somthing too.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

yea man, Ponder, I am southern and a might ***********************************,  
there are numerous ways, but we want to Kiss this thing, ( keep it stupidly simple )


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

I'm also a Southerner (Texas), and a bit *********************************** too.  I've heard of the KISS method before, and I try to keep stuff as simple as possible. I think I may have found something that would work for me.

I have not tried rubbing a finish out with automotive polish yet. I found a few potential types, and would appreciate feedback (I don't know much about automotive polishes, so I just want to know which one would be the best to use for a mirror shine)

Do any of these look like they would work?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/TUR0/T417/N0468.oap?ck=Search_N0468_-1_-1&pt=N0468&ppt=C0209

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTH2/08100/N0468.oap?ck=Search_N0468_-1_-1&pt=N0468&ppt=C0209

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/TUR0/T241A/N0468.oap?ck=Search_N0468_-1_-1&pt=N0468&ppt=C0209


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## Dchip (Jun 30, 2009)

Progressively thinner shellac? The higher the alcohol ratio, the less you're adding to the finish and just smoothing over the previous coat. Maybe even the last coat just being an alcohol-soaked rag.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Ok, lets back up, one step at a time, are you game to get a qt of whatever it is Min- wax sell, polycrylic I think, in a gloss, if so also get a foam brush, and one of those painter pads that look like nylon velcro , and a can of Deft or other spray can gloss lacquer, all of this should be available at a box store, Lowes I think, has it all, not positive

then we will go from there,


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Well Mr. Neil, Now that we have you here, I have a question about your new book. Should I post it here or do you want me to e mail you?


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Dchip, I agree shellac will do it, but going to go for something a little easier and more durable,


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jorge, let'er rip


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Yep, the pads they use on bowling balls.
It was actually from charles neil I learned it from (well, a video he did. ;-)).

Good results.
I use crystalac super premium; it's a high quality water borne finish.
I use distilled water with a bit of dawn in it as my lube.

I keep it extremely simple; 2 coats of the clear, lightly sand with 320, 2 more coats, another if necessary, wait a few days, start wet sanding. I don't do it with a machine; I use one of these and do it all by hand. I start at 1000 and go to 2000, 3000 and then 4000 grit. The lower grits are mainly to smooth the surface; if the cosmos are aligned that day and I get a smooth off the gun finish I skip right to the 4000.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Paris I don't know if this is what you want, if you look at my projects you will see a demilune, I used lacquer and polished it with 3M polishing compound, took the polishing off with a clean cloth and then buffed the surface. It was pretty simple and quick. But you have to let the lacquer cure for a week or so, so that it is as hard as it can get.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Ok, I am in Mexico, and cannot get the varnishes and stains I see you using in your videos. A lot of this stuff cannot be shipped here because of haz mat regulations. So, does your book cover simple procedures that work? I loved your video on "POP the figure" but I cannot get that glaze.


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## Swyftfeet (Jun 15, 2012)

HA! I was going to suggest a two part automotive clear coat. But being a newbie to this whole thing I thought I was gonna get laughed out of the forum.

Oh well…


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jorge, your close, the thing with the polyacrylic, ( I use General finish but box store stuff will do), is it is a water base, and higher solids ( i think ), which will give us a quicker build and foundation without the shrink back issue lacquer and other solvent finishes have, again, quick , fast, durable and as painless as possible , I make a living doing this stuff, and have for most of my life, cept for today, and today I just been having some fun here on LJ, dont get to many days like this.
What we going to do is get the basic finsh with the water base, , then sand it slick and smooth, then using the spray can lacquer we will finish it off, if that doesnt suit then we will do the rub it out thing. 
Nite Walker, you got it,


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jorge, what is your question about my book,


> ?


???


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

I do a lot of guitars, and high gloss is the name of the game. You don't have to have costly equipment or materials. Some good wetsanding will get you really far, with a nice buffing compound and swirl remover at the end. It definitely takes a lot more effort than a good spray gun and a good auto clear, but the end results can be just as good. If you are looking to do something with relatively high build, Deft will stay softer longer which makes it difficult to buff out to a high gloss. Polycrylic will work, if you do it right. I did a pair of guitars for my kids last Christmas and used polycrylic, you just have to pay plenty of attention during application, especially with a foam brush. But it is totally doable on a budget, it just takes more effort.

Similarly, a french polish will get you high gloss, but again, lots of effort.


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## Swyftfeet (Jun 15, 2012)

Pure pondering… I'm thinking that coming out of the shop it would look amazing, but the small amount of wood movement due to humidity and temp might crack any of the cheaper automotive clear coats…


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## Swyftfeet (Jun 15, 2012)

Charles I think his questionss started with: OK, I am in mexico….......


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Ripthorn, your dead on, I am just trying here to "cut to the chase" , glad to see you got the swirl remover aka Finishers Glaze to remove the swirls and clarify the finish, the reason for the lacquer is to use it over the water base, , it will gently reflow the sanded surface and lay down a little finish, another means of finishing the finish without rubbing


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Brian, I hear ya, actually automotive finishes flex more than most think, My background is automotive, all the trick and custom painting, and multiple coats of lacquer, and all that, had a few make it into hot rod mag. 
The lacquers had long term issues, like the '" thick lacquers on some of the Japan furniture stuff) they cracked, the new modern day, urethanes and so forth are much more flexable remember metal moves as well, hot and cold, Wood moves moisture in moisture out


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Jorge, what is your question about my book, ????

Here it is:

Ok, I am in Mexico, and cannot get the varnishes and stains I see you using in your videos. A lot of this stuff cannot be shipped here because of haz mat regulations. So, does your book cover simple procedures that work? I loved your video on "POP the figure" but I cannot get that glaze.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jorge, all my book is about is simple and stuff that works, or better put has for me for years, as to Mexico, most of it is water base, ( can be shipped no haz-mat) been hard and heavy into it for about 5 years now, and like it or not its in your future, alot of Calif can't get anything but, look at Canada they cant even get Denatured Alcohol, Water base is coming , so I decided to "figure it out," and been using it for a long time, so like this thread, I figured out how to make it work , '

The book just cuts to the chase, its stuff like this thread, no BS, not much chemistry, mostly do A, then B and C if ya have to.
I promise you , I will never tell you what I "think" , just what I know, and I dont walk on water, there are many different ways to do thing's and I dont know them all, but I am one of those when It works for me over and over again ,for years I tend to stick with it, thats the book in a nut shell

speaking of works for me, heading home , be back in the morning, time for some clams , and perhaps something with a little more "bite" .. back in the am guys

PS, In the book I have editors and grammer folks, good thing I think


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## Swyftfeet (Jun 15, 2012)

Can't wait to get a copy… have to wait for xmass , GF asked what I want and I told her that her timing was perfect. 
Charles Neil has a new book. She was pretty amped too shopping for me done in 30 secs lol

PS, In the book I have editors and *grammer* folks, good thing I think
This is good stuff if intentional! Aught to be your tag line, please don't take it the wrong way if not


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Gr8 topic. Sorry, I'm too much of a rookie to have any input, but, I can sure soak in all this advice from all of you fine LJ's out there. I appreciate it also.


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

@Dchip- I like the look of shellac, but I'm nervous about using it on anything that not purely decorative. The alcohol and water thing makes me want to use another finish.

@Charles- I've got everything you listed except the painters pad. My current project is a set of pistol grips, so I don't think it would have been much help anyway. I also picked up a bottle of automotive polish just to try, and it seems to really work. 

@Jorge- thanks for the advice. I'll definitely keep in on the "to try" list.

@Rip- I don't mind putting effort into finishing my projects. If it makes them look much better when they are done, it's well worth it to me.

@Brian- I wouldn't know much about that. Charles sure does though. 

@Charles- I stumbled onto some of your YouTube vids earlier today, and they helped a lot. It was the one about hand rubbed finishes. I'll also have to look into that book. 

@Roger- I've been woodworking for years, and I still conciser myself a rookie in some places. There is still a lot to learn, and this forum is an AMAZING place to learn.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

Dont feel out your in good company

35 years later I'm still lookn for the answer


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Well, I tried the car polish on a lacquered piece of scrap wood, and it works very well. It didn't give me a mirror shine, but it gave me a VERY high gloss.


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## adaughhetee (Jan 20, 2011)

These are images of a heart box I made after spray-can polying over poly wet-sanded with 2000 grit. I tried sanding with 2000 then hand polishing with rubbing compound but had less than perfect results. As long as you have a good base the spray will lay down good. You can get spray clear-coat at the parts store with the touch-up paints. Another tip the colder the spray environment the slower the dry time allowing the finish to level better.


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## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

10 coats of gloss spray lacquer ,,, 0000 steel wool between coats


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

An out-of-the-jug finish that is high gloss is Bona Mega waterborne oxygen cross-linking floor finish. Sand back the first coat with 320 to get rid of the fuzzies, then follow with two more full coats. brushed on with a soft brush. That'll do it, but can also be rubbed out with auto compounds.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Thank yo Charles for your quick and through response. I will be getting this book.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/how-to-paint-mdf-to-a-mirror-finish-worklog.67501/

this might help.


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## Thermaloy (Nov 5, 2012)

If we are talking objects turned on a lathe, my tutor told me to make certain my chisels were as sharp as possible for the final cut. That gives a good base for finishing acrylic (2 coats, lightly sanded between them) and wax (1 application, polished lightly at speed) - which is how the finish was obtained on the bowl in my current avatar. So far I have not used wood stains. Hope that is a help.


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