# 3/4" drill guide for holdfasts and dogholes



## RaiderSix (Oct 30, 2010)

As many woodworkers are building benches and drilling 3/4" holes for dogs and holdfasts , why isn't there a drill guide on the market? You would think that Veritas or Big Gator Tools would see an opportunity for such a product. All it would need to be is a decent size square of aluminum or even UHMW plastic with a 3/4" hole in it and some sandpaper glued to the base. I actually have emailed both companies with this same idea, but received no response from either. I don't know if it went straight to their junkmail box or what.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

Maybe it is such an easy thing to make on your own they don't think it would really sell except to production shops , and they most likely have something made up already.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

I have about 5 benches, so several years ago I made my own drill guide for dog holes…..Once I determined the spacing between holes, I laid them out, then drilled them out on the drill press…easy peasy..nice and easy…Oh, and I also made a shelf pin guide for cabinets, bookcases, etc….Just a router, guide bushing, and a spiral bit does the trick…....Now why would I want to buy a drill guide..? Why buy it when you can build it..?


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

I recently completed my bench. What worked best for me was:
1. Starting with a 3/4" spiral bit in my plunge router. This got the hole off to a really straight bore, got an excellent wall (no splintering or gouging) and a nice clean entry. However, I really only got about an inch of depth from this method. I could have extended the bit and gotten about another inch, but it wasn't worth it. I used a straight edge to get all the holes to line up well. This was pretty fast
2. Pushed through most of the rest of the way with a spade bit. This got the most wood in the least time. I stopped about 1/4" from the end. I used a corded drill for this. Needed a lot of power. My top was around 3 1/2" thick, SYP.
3. Finished with a Forstner bit on a bit extender. This got me a reasonably clean exit. Better than just finishing with the spade bit.

I did try using a spiral bit from Greenlee mostly intended to cut holes for wire in 2X material. That didn't work so well beyond the 1 1/2 it was intended for.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> Maybe it is such an easy thing to make on your own they don t think it would really sell except to production shops , and they most likely have something made up already.
> 
> - Richard


You would think that, until Rockler just released a sandpaper cutter.

I think that part of the issue is that the spacing between holes can differ from bench to bench, based on the user's preference, and the vises. I think that in order to satisfy people, the jig would have to be adjustable, which could make it cost-prohibitive to most, versus the cost of making one. Plus, with a piece of 3/4" dowel and some scrap wood, it can be made in the amount of time it would take order one online.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

I've always just clamped my plunge router in the spot(s) that I needed a dog hole. The plunge router got the holes started. I finished them off with a 3/4 spiral bit and a power drill.


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## RaiderSix (Oct 30, 2010)

I guess I should have mentioned that I don't have a drill press or a plunge router. I typically use a bit and brace for anything 3/8"ish and larger and a hand drill for smaller stuff. I've looked at drill presses, but I just cant stand the thought of buying one and having it collect dust and take up shelf space. A little guide to keep me perpendicular to the surface can be tossed into a drawer until I need to drill a holdfast or dog hole.
I've got an idea. I have a nice block of maple that would be perfect for what I'm thinking. If someone with a drill press was to drill a perpendicular 3/4" hole in it for me I would Paypal them a small amount for their time and return shipping.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

PM, me and I will do it for you for the postage.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

> Maybe it is such an easy thing to make on your own they don t think it would really sell except to production shops , and they most likely have something made up already.
> 
> - Richard
> 
> ...


Yea that is just Crazy.

Matt , how about something like this with a 3/4" Forstner bit to start and a spade bit to finish.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/146143/Precision-Drill-Guide.aspx#sthash.uX2YnwrE.dpuf
$53.59 from Woodcraft but I got one from HD for about $19 .Not as acurate as a Drillpress but a lot cheaper if your only going to us it one or two times.
Tried to post the Pic but for some reason the site is only letting me post from the web and not my PC.


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## RaiderSix (Oct 30, 2010)

Thanks guys. Richard, I saw that drill guide and it looked okay, but seems a little unwieldy (is that a word?). I've got a nice Wood Owl Ultra Smooth Tri Spur auger bit that make the cleanest holes. I plan on chucking it in a Miller's Falls tee auger handle so my other hand is free to hold the block in place.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

> Thanks guys. Richard, I saw that drill guide and it looked okay, but seems a little unwieldy (is that a word?). I ve got a nice Wood Owl Ultra Smooth Tri Spur auger bit that make the cleanest holes. I plan on chucking it in a Miller s Falls tee auger handle so my other hand is free to hold the block in place.
> 
> - Matt Stauffer


Mat , it's not to bad really you just chuck it up in your drill hold it straight. Not sure if your Auger bit will fit it though also have to be sure the guide is tall enough to handle the length of your bit , thats why I would start with a shorter bit then go to the longer one.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

I would never use my drill press for bench dogs. I prefer my Yankee brace with a nice old school Irwin auger bit. It feels so nice when boring a hole. I just set a couple of squares to make sure I'm drilling straight. Its a pleasure and I can knock out multiple holes very quickly.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

If all you've got is a bit/brace (nothing wrong with that)....see Elche's post above.


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## RaiderSix (Oct 30, 2010)

Here is my "drill press in a drawer." Much easier than trying to steady a tall bit and brace while craning the neck to look at two squares. It didn't exit exactly on the center of the narrow edge, but reasonably centered and lightyears beyond what I could have done by eye.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Looks like you're making the world's nicest ladderball game?


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## RaiderSix (Oct 30, 2010)

I had to look up ladderball. It does look like that. They're actually just sawhorses. I got them from Tom Fidgen's "Made By Hand" book, who got them from a photo in a James Krenov book. I modified them a bit with a dovetailed top bar and swoopy feet. I made them to match the height of my table saw outfeed. When they are sitting around idle, you can stack lumber on them or set a project on them. I spent quite a bit of time working on this little pile of sticks. I never want to chop mortises in oak again (unless it's "green"). It took a half an hour for each mortise (there are eight). The problem wasn't in the chopping, but getting the chisel back out of the wood. It doesn't want to let go. Glad to be wrapping these things up.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Hm, I had the same issue with white oak, but I figured it was my chisels or technique. I wonder if a little paste wax on the chisel sides would help…


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## RaiderSix (Oct 30, 2010)

I don't think this is just coincidence. Not exactly what I was thinking, because you would still need a drill press to bore for the insert. Apparently they do listen to suggestions.










http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=72602&cat=51&ap=1!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/nh45fqf.jpg!


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## WaylonWillie (Dec 20, 2014)

Matt: I'm in pretty much the same boat as you: bench, no power, brace and bit.

I didn't have very good luck with shop made jigs.

What did it for me was just standing a try-square up right next to the auger bit. Just get the bit started, and it will stand up on its own. Check all around with a try square. Then go 1/2 turn or so, correcting where you need, and leaving the try square standing right by the bit. Check again, and go another half turn or so. Check again, and go another half turn. After you get a certain way in, you won't really be able to correct any more; you will be quite straight, enough for a holdfast, so just crank the hole in.


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