# Using a gravity HVLP to paint cabinets



## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

My wife and I just bought a new house and she wants the cabinets white. I prefer not to spend the money to pay someone and I like the idea of a few new tools and a new skill 

I'm looking at an HVLP gun (either the purple 1.4 from Harbor Freight or the 2.3 Vaper from Northern Tool). I'm leaning towards the 2.3. I had planned to spray Benjamin Moore Advanced.

Any words of caution or advice? I don't want to buy a complete HVLP kit.

I do need a new compressor so I though to pair the gun with an oiless McGraw 21gal compressor. Do you think that will be enough to paint kitchen cabinets?

I'm all ears!


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

I would recommend investing in a pressure pot system. I use the harbor freight ones. If you invest in one, replace the hoses with industrial hoses.

I would also look at a catalyzed product.

I don't know much about BM advanced, but my guess it would spray well with a fine finish tip airless.


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## hkmiller (Mar 6, 2018)

I sprayed my cabinets with Advance using a high-volume low-pressure sprayer with a 2.5 mm tip make sure you have a compressor that has enough cfm's I did dilute the pain about 10% with water it's sprayed wonderfully you'll get a phenomenal finish just make sure you prep the cabinets well before you spray them. What's your current finish on the cabinets?


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

I'm starting to lean towards a Fuji Semi Pro/Hobby Pro….looks like the default on the Hobby Pro is a 1.8 tip. Any experience on here?


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## d38 (Sep 6, 2017)

Rather than spraying paint with an HVLP, have you considered Target Coating's white colored lacquer?
Its designed for HVLP and brush. And the tint base version can be colored with Benjamin Moore tints. 
https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6500-wb-bright-white-custom-tint-lacquer/

If you're considering the Fuji Semi Pro (2 stage turbine), also look at the Earlex 6003 which is a 3 stage turbine. You'll get more air for better atomization. If you want detailed info on an Earlex, message "Earlextech", aka Sam Hamory on this forum. He's a Wagner customer service rep specializing in the Earlex HVLP line. He travels the winter woodworking show circuit, and demos spraying latex paint right out of the can with their model 5500, a 2-stage.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

Never messed with laquer…how much more difficult is it to work with?

I looked at the Earlex 5500, but got the impression the Fuji was a step up. Whole process has my head spinning


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

An alkyd enamel paint will have superior abrasion/wear resistance vs a lacquer paint, important for kit cabs. Do you plan to use the spray gun just for paint or do you have other plans for it? I prefer compressed air type guns vs turbines due to a broader viscosity range capability as well as turn down ratio , ie choke down to more like a large airbrush or open the fan to several feet. Turbines can work just not as adjustable.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

I'm all over the place…my only plan right now is knocking out these cabinets. At one point I was thinking of just getting a big compressor and a HVLP gun from Northern Tool or HF.

We have an Airless that I've painted a cabin with but seems overkill for the cabinets…I can only imagine the mess.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

The paints I was looking at were:
- Benjamin Moore Advanced (i read it takes forever to cure)
- PPG Breakthrough (preferred due to drying time)

But consensus is tough to come by


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

As far as what I see as most useful for me…it would be buying a bigger compressor (21gal?) for the garage and hooking up a gun.

But the more I read, the more it seems that might not work. At a bit of a loss.


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## putty (Jan 1, 2014)

I got the Fuji semi pro for Christmas, I painted bathroom cabinets with SW emerald urethane water based.
I had to thin about 20% it sprayed good and has a very nice finish.

I am now doing the kitchen cabinets


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> The paints I was looking at were:
> - Benjamin Moore Advanced (i read it takes forever to cure)
> - PPG Breakthrough (preferred due to drying time)
> 
> ...


Can you spray a catalyzed solvent product? I have breakthrough on my cabinets. It holds up pretty well to water. Not as well to grease/grime of kitchens. Had a precat lacquer in my old house. Between the 2, I'd go with the precat. And it's not as good as a post cat/conversion varnish.

If you are decided on water based. Just use your airless with a fine finish tip. Mine turned out very nice. Keep your equipment clean. Breakthrough likes to get chunkers in it.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

OK…tell me about Target Coating Waterbourne White Lacquer?

I planned to spray the boxes inside (we haven't moved in yet). I've always heard about the dangers of lacquer…is the water-based different? Can I spray it inside? Can I spray it with a Fuji 2?

Here are the cabinets for reference:


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## d38 (Sep 6, 2017)

I'm using Target Coating 9300 clear finish and sanding sealer on indoor window trim and it works great. I haven't used any of his other products. 
But I've read a lot of good info about all of his products. 
Its a small company, and the owner Jeff Weiss, will be the one answering your questions. A Facebook Message got an answer in a couple hours for me. 
All of his products are designed to be sprayed. And a Fuji Semi Pro or other 2 stage turbine should spray it just fine. 
Suggest you search LJ, and Google for Target Coating EM6500, and see if its right for you. As OSU55 said above, latex may be more durable. Do you have young kids/grand kids that need high durability? 
If you like what you read, maybe make a new post on here specifically asking about EM6500.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

We have kids 3, 5 and 7 haha Durability probably will be a factor.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> We have kids 3, 5 and 7 haha Durability probably will be a factor.
> 
> - sethmac


Replace wood fronts with concrete.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> OK…tell me about Target Coating Waterbourne White Lacquer?
> 
> I planned to spray the boxes inside (we haven t moved in yet). I ve always heard about the dangers of lacquer…is the water-based different? Can I spray it inside? Can I spray it with a Fuji 2?
> 
> - sethmac


Ive sprayed EM6500 black and em6000 clear, but with a conversion hvlp (compressed air). Ive read people having good luck using it in turbines. No voc concerns (still, use a respirator) like solvent lacquer. It sprays very nicely , but wb is different than solvent finishes - they look bad when laid down, kind of orange peel, then over the 10-20 min flow out.

Even with inker I dont think the lacquer is a good choice for kit cabs. Call or email Jeff Weiss, owner of Target and ask him. He usually responds quickly. He can provide advice on the coatings and how they work with turbines and compressed air guns


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## kocgolf (Jun 8, 2012)

Ok, I will jump in here too as this is near and dear to my future. Also have small destructive minions. Looking for something that I can do interior doors and cabinets with, but also would be handy if it could handle some outdoor jobs like a deck and maybe garage doors. I had been looking at all the options and just didn't know if I could sink the money into a high end (although undoubtedly awesome) Fuji system, but then I came across the HomeRight Superfinish Max. I was dead set on it for the fall. Now I wonder though as the different paint products come up. I like the sound of this EMTECH TargetCoatings stuff. Can the HomeRight style system handle this?


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> I dont think the lacquer is a good choice for kit cabs.
> 
> - OSU55


The term lacquer is used loosely. I agree most NC wouldn't be a good choice. But there are a few that pass KCMA standards with proper application. Precats are on par or better than off the shelf stuff like Breakthrough or BM advance. Post cat/cv would be the best. Not everyone wants to deal with it though.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

On spraying inside with solvent products, it can be done and has an advantage.

Basically you would want to seal that room off and have an pretty strong fan pulling the air out. The advantage is you can be done in 2 coats. I haven't used a water based coating that was good after 2. This is a refinish so 2 might work.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

Here is what Jeff sent me:
"Clean, decontaminate and fine sand the existing finish. Wipe clean with water and alcohol mixed 1:1. Prime with a thin coat of BIN Primer, and use our EM6500 Pigmented Lacquer as the top color coat. Use a 1.8mm tip set in the Fuji gun for the 6500."

For all the folks stating what they don't think would work…what do you think would work well?

Thanks!


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> Here is what Jeff sent me:
> "Clean, decontaminate and fine sand the existing finish. Wipe clean with water and alcohol mixed 1:1. Prime with a thin coat of BIN Primer, and use our EM6500 Pigmented Lacquer as the top color coat. Use a 1.8mm tip set in the Fuji gun for the 6500."
> 
> For all the folks stating what they don t think would work…what do you think would work well?
> ...


What Jeff recommended sounds good. How many coats did he recommend?


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

I'm waiting for him to answer my followup…i'll post it back here.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

The Target products are excellent. They spray easily and are durable.

Since you are new to spraying, I suggest reading the Bob Flexner book and spending time practicing on cardboard. Also, plan to spray your doors in the winter when the moisture content is lowest and the panels have shrunk to minimum size to prevent revealing an unfinished stripe down the side (assuming you have solid wood doors).


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> The paints I was looking at were:
> - Benjamin Moore Advanced (i read it takes forever to cure)
> - PPG Breakthrough (preferred due to drying time)
> 
> ...


A couple of things I found, everything as Pros and cons.

PPG Breakthrough - Cons

Not everyone sees this as a con, but the satin finish in Breakthrough is a bit more matte than that of the Advance. I personally prefer the satin finish of the Advance, but I know people who prefer the Breakthrough. And honestly, it's not that noticeable, I just notice it because I work with it often.

Leveling - Since Breakthrough dries so fast, it doesn't level out as well as the Advance - but this is only when I'm brushing/rolling the frames - it sprays just fine. However, if you use the right painting tools, you can still achieve a beautiful finished look. One must have tool is a flocked foam roller. I experimented with quite a few, and this roller gave the smoothest finish when I hand painted the frames. Trust me on this one. Use the flocked foam roller. Here is an end panel that I painted in the Breakthrough:


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> Here is what Jeff sent me:
> "Clean, decontaminate and fine sand the existing finish. Wipe clean with water and alcohol mixed 1:1. Prime with a thin coat of BIN Primer, and use our EM6500 Pigmented Lacquer as the top color coat. Use a 1.8mm tip set in the Fuji gun for the 6500."
> 
> Thanks!
> ...


In my previous post "inker" was for crosslinker, an additive Target has for all their coatings for chemical and abrasion resistance. Use the data sheet for em6000 for the tinted 6500. Jeff recommends the EM6000 series for cabinets but I dont see on the data sheet whether it was tested/passed KCMA stds. Ask Jeff about this. My only concern is durability on kit cabs, and could well be unfounded - Jeff is the expert. Otherwise, it is an excellent product that works great. I knew he would have spraying recommendations for guns - if you consider other guns ask him about use with his products.


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## sethmac (Jun 26, 2019)

Here is the followup:
"Use a smaller tip to spray the BIN, i.e. 1.2 or 1.3mm in size. Apply a minimum of 2 coats to obtain a good, durable finish. You may want to consider adding CL100 Crosslinker into the 6500 to improve chemical resistance. Figure on 1 coat every 1-2 hours."


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