# Makita 2030 Restoration



## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

Just wanted to post some pictures of my Makita 2030 restoration and give a few tips on anyone that may be restoring one! It was in pretty rough shape when I got it but had almost all the pieces still on it. I got most of the planer specific parts from ereplacementparts.com so that's a great source for parts. When I bought it, it was missing the crank handle for the planer portion and for the life of me I was unable to find a replacement, so I took a gamble on MMtoolsparts.com and bought the crank handle for a 2040 and thankfully it was an exact fit! A big thanks to MrUnix for getting me through the disassembly and working with the roll pins. I used some rust remover on the heavily rusted parts and that seemed to really eat the rust off in quick order. I used Rustoleum Hammered Verde Green and put a new coat of paint on everything. I am only missing the guard for the jointer side so if anyone has any information on where I could find one please let me know!

Thanks for looking!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Good job on the restore… and nice to know about the 2040 handwheel. I really disliked the plastic (which is the only thing plastic on the whole machine), so I just wound up making one out of wood on the lathe, complete with the little spinner handle 










As for the jointer guard - I've looked everywhere for one without success… they certainly are made out of unobtanium. Fortunately, I have the OEM one on my other 2030, so I'm going to make one out of wood using it as a pattern. More or less the last thing I need to do on my restore.

Cheers,
Brad


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## DMiller (Feb 7, 2017)

Very Cool! I like to see these old machines restored! Would love to eventually get one. Keep it up! 
DMiller


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

I just finished up the dust collection to match what I have on my table saw station. I just made a manifold out of aluminum for the planer side and made a similar duct on the jointer side.


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

That came out really nice. Good job!


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

Very nice…..I have seen a couple of those in use, but it has been a while, people i knew that had them were very happy with em


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

That looks like a really great machine. It must be fairly unique - I've never seen any large stationary Makita equipment. Maybe that's just me. Do they make any other large machinery?


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

I've been adding the final touches to the Makita, and now have a wixey WR550 installed on the machine. I still need to calibrate it but it seems to be functioning properly for now! I also bought new blades for both the jointer and planer sides of the machine. I figure its worth asking, does anyone know of anywhere to find the planer blades for the 2030 rather than having to cut down the 2030N blades?


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## RookieWood (Jan 26, 2016)

Brazz04, if you are still lookign for the jointer gaurd, there is a gentlemen selling parts on here that may have the jointer guard. The title is (I have Makita 2030 parts for sale!).

Very nice job on the restoration. I am getting ready to restore the one I got a while back. Also I like how you set up your dust collector. I will be coping you on that for sure.

Brad M


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

Thanks Brad, I actually asked that seller for the cutter guard I believe the day after he had sold it! So Close! Thanks for the comments on the restoration, the dust collection does seem to work pretty well, I just was in the garage using it when I got your notification. The one thing I really want now is a shelix head for it, but its just so much money!


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## RookieWood (Jan 26, 2016)

I looked into those heads as well. Man they are proud of them. I think I asked someone else this question as well but when you did your restoration did you have anything to guide you on the rebuild? I have a manual that I got off line and my plan is to take pictures as I tear down and use the manual. Is there a better plan?

Brad M.


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## RookieWood (Jan 26, 2016)

I just noticed you mounted something on the side of the jointer. Looks like a dark piece of wood. What is that for?

Brad M


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

I used probably the same manual as you have, but really it was a lot of guessing. I did have to cut one roll pin, the one that aligns the jointer table to the planer head housing. But most of the rest I was able to drive out without a lot of issue. I can add more pics of the tear down this evening. MrUnix has some great pictures as well to help you see all of the parts.


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

Here are a few pictures of the 2030 torn down, it may help you see whats what.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I did have to cut one roll pin, the one that aligns the jointer table to the planer head housing.
> - Brazz04


Those took me a bit to figure out, but I finally figured out how to do it without having to destroy anything. The key is to take the base off first so the posts are free. From there, the jointer portion will pop off the side leaving those guide pins in place 



> I have a manual that I got off line and my plan is to take pictures as I tear down and use the manual. Is there a better plan?
> - RookieWood


I have some 'notes' that I made during my adventure that pretty much details the disassembly process along with a few tips regarding the process… I'll dig around and see if I can find them.

Cheers,
Brad


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Ok, found it. I'm posting it here as the thread topic is appropriate, and so everyone can see it and I don't have to e-mail or PM it to individuals on a case by case basis. It's by no means complete, but it should help with disassembly, and others can add their tips and tricks to make it even more applicable.

--------------
Disassembly procedure for a Makita 2030 planer/jointer
June 11, 2015

Overview

The Makita 2030 was made in the 1970's and 1980's, and is a 12 inch (304mm)
thickness planer/6 inch (155mm) jointer combination machine. There were 3
different revisions of these machines over the years (Type 1,2 and 3), but
the differences are very minimal. Makita later introduced the 2030N (Note
the "N" on the end), which while looking very similar, is really a different
machine in many ways (and can be identified by the different support posts
used).

This document was based on the restoration I performed on a Type 2 machine.
It was purchased in pretty rough condiditon and needed a complete teardown
and rebuild. The most common problem with these machines, besides simple
lack of maintenance, is the original rubber used on the feed rollers. It
will, over time, become brittle and eventually crumble off the metal roller
shafts. Fortunately, there are several companies that can re-cover the
rollers for much less than purchasing new. Mine had no rubber on them at
all when I bought the machine, so that is exactly what I had done. It was
also missing parts and very rusty. During the process, every part on the
machine was addressed in some fashion. This is not a trivial restore, as
there are a LOT of parts to these machines:










This is the general flow I used to disassemble the machine:

- Take off anything that can be easily removed. This includes the
upper hood, motor, cutter head guard, jointer fence and table(s),
most of the gears and pulleys under the side cover, electricals, etc.
If it can be removed, remove it. Take lots of pictures, put parts
in baggies and label the bags so you know where they came from. Take
some more pictures (even of stuff you don't think you will need!).

Note: You don't (can't) take the table raise/lower gearing completely
off, so just leave it attached to the table for now.

Note: It's also a good idea to give a good shot of penetrating
oil at the top and bottom of the posts and let it soak in.
And multiple applications depending on how rusty it is.
I soaked mine every day for over a month and still had
problems.

- The goal is to get to a bare machine so you can flip it upside down.
The 'bare' machine should consist of only the cast iron base, the
four support posts (2 big, 2 small), the planer table and the two
major body castings (jointer and planer) complete with the two
cutter heads inside. Get a couple of 2×4's or whatever you have handy
and put them lengthwise on the planer table and raise the table all
the way up until the wood stops it from going any higher. Finally,
gently flip the machine over and use some blocking to keep it from
tipping. Also use blankets or mats under it to prevent scratching.

- There are 4 spring (roll) pins holding the posts in the cast iron
base. Those need to be driven out with a pin punch. There are two
large ones for the table posts, and two smaller ones for the jointer
support posts. The pins for the jointer support posts are short,
so they will drop out into the tube. Once removed, the cast iron
base can be lifted off the posts. It may take a bit of wiggling and
a few extra hands, and you need to turn the table adjustment hand
wheel to help raise the base off (for about 1 inch).

Note: On mine, the posts were rusted sold in the base and refused
to come loose, even after soaking daily with penetrating oil
for several months. A hydraulic jack was used between the base
and underside of the planer table to provide enough force to
finally get it removed.

- Remove the planer table and lifting mechanism. The lifting assembly
can be unbolted and removed completely, and the table should just lift
up off the support posts with a little bit of effort.

Note: There is one bolt on the lifting mechanism that is under the
shaft and can't easily be removed. Remove the other accessable
bolts first, and then lift the whole assembly as that last
bolt is unscrewed.

- At this point, all the gears and pulleys should have been remvoed from
the gearbox, and you just need to remove the cutter heads. Remove the
end caps on either end of them and take them off. The one on the
jointer needs to have the turn wheel taken off, which is removed by
pounding out a spring (roll) pin that holds it in place. Loosen the
set screws on the two couplings between them and pry them apart with
a screwdiver. You should be able to remove the belt once they are
seperated enough. Each cutter head needs to be removed individually
out where the outer cover/bearing housing was. A combination of large
screwdrivers, wood block/dowel and a hammer, pry bar or bearing
'pickle fork', and other implements of torture may be needed, but they
will eventually come out. If you are lucky, the inner bearings will
come out with the cutter heads. Otherwise, you need to tap out the
inner bearngs once the heads are removed.

- Split the two main castings. Remove the 4 bolts holding them
together, and then seperate. You may need to pry and bang on it with
a rubber mallet a bit. There are two spring (roll) pins still in place
that are used for algnment, and they will still be holding things
together. Once you get a slight split, use a screwdriver or pry bar
(wrapped in tape to keep from buggering things up), alternating from
one side to the other, gently 'rocking' it off. An occasional tap
with a rubber mallet also help.

- Once the castings are split, you can drive out the four remaining
spring (roll) pins holding the posts in place, and remove the posts.

- Reassembly is basically the reverse.

SPECIFIC TIPS

- GEARBOX -

For the gear box stuff, start by removing the side cover which is held
on by one screw. Once exposed, remove the 4 snap ring holding the gears
and idler in place and remove them along with the chain. The tensioner
can then be removed, which is held in place by another large snap ring.
After all that has been removed, the rear cover plate can be removed to
expose the cutter head drive belt and two pulleys. Both pulleys are
screwed onto their shafts and need to be unscrewed. The easiest way to
get the belt off is to remove the cutter head pulley. It is a normal 
right hand thread, so it unscrews in the normal (lefty loosey) fashion.
Easiest way to do this is to hold the pulley and rotate the cutter head
by hand to unscrew it. The other pulley, which is a left hand thread
(opposite of normal) can be left in place until later when the gear box
is removed. Once the drive belt is removed, the 4 screws holding the
gear box in place can be removed and it can then be seperated from the
rest of the machine with a little prodding and prying.

Note: On my machine, the grease inside the gearbox had turned into wax
and had to be completely cleaned out.

Note: The idler shaft is also a left hand thread, so needs to be turned
clockwise to remove.


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

So does anyone have planer blades that they like for this planer? I have now bought two sets of planer blades from Frued on Amazon and two of the four blades have exploded on me. The two blades broke after about the third board through the planer. They were the blades for the 2030N, so I did have to cut them down by about a half inch, but the blades both broke in the center area and nowhere near the outsides. I'm debating on making the move to the shelix head unless I can find a more budget friendly option.


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## tomcraw (Sep 6, 2018)

Hey Brazz04 - nice restoration, do you have more info on the dust collection? I think I must have a type 1 because I don't see any way to add dust collection without putting on some type of A/C ductwork.


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

The dust collection on mine is fully custom, I just went to lowes and bought a sheet of aluminum and bent it up where I thought it would work. I made a cardboard template to get me close and just went from there. I tried to use the factory mounting locations but did have to drill holes for some connection areas. The plywood manifold (I guess thats what i'd call it?) is just something I came up with a while back that seems to work pretty well and just slides up and down between the jointer and planer.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

You probably need to dispose of that Dewalt planer I see tucked away. I'll pay shipping. Just send it to me.

Very nice job on the restore.


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

Well I actually don't own either any more, I can't help myself when I find new restoration projects so I've sold both and now own an 8" grizzly jointer from the early 80's and well as a 15" jet planer that is still being restored.


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## LocoWoodWork (Feb 14, 2019)

I'm repairing a Makita 2030 and need to purchase a shredded cutter head drive belt. Need the belt specs, dimensions or part # if you could share.


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

https://www.toolpartsdirect.com/makita-225044-1-poly-v-belt-9-653-2030.html?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=shopping&utm_content=pviKupOh_pcrid_75500247623_pkw__pmt__pdv_c_product_makita_225044-1_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyPaDyNK84AIVkRh9Ch3dpgrwEAQYASABEgIKXPD_BwE

It's going to hurt your wallet as they are expensive, but here's a link. The part number is Poly V-Belt 9-653.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Part number is listed in the manual (P/N #225044-1 : Poly V-Belt 9-563). You do have the manual, don't you?

Those belts can be found at quite a few different places, from the usual aftermarket suppliers to even Amazon. And like Brazz sez - they aren't cheap - around $100 more or less.

Cheers,
Brad


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## LocoWoodWork (Feb 14, 2019)

I need smelling salts!



> https://www.toolpartsdirect.com/makita-225044-1-poly-v-belt-9-653-2030.html?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=shopping&utm_content=pviKupOh_pcrid_75500247623_pkw__pmt__pdv_c_product_makita_225044-1_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyPaDyNK84AIVkRh9Ch3dpgrwEAQYASABEgIKXPD_BwE
> 
> It s going to hurt your wallet as they are expensive, but here s a link. The part number is Poly V-Belt 9-653.
> 
> - Brazz04


Don't have a manual but did completely disassemble and reassemble. Had the same issues with old waxy grease in gear housing. Has been running great until the belt let go.



> Part number is listed in the manual (P/N #225044-1 : Poly V-Belt 9-563). You do have the manual, don t you?
> 
> Those belts can be found at quite a few different places, from the usual aftermarket suppliers to even Amazon. And like Brazz sez - they aren t cheap - around $100 more or less.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the quick responses.


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## LocoWoodWork (Feb 14, 2019)

Just ordered a T-5400-10 Timing belt for $5.18 plush shipping from McMaster.com. It's 10mm wide X 40cm OD X 5mm pitch, we'll see if my measurements are correct… hopefully it's a match.


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

> Just ordered a T-5400-10 Timing belt for $5.18 plush shipping from McMaster.com. It s 10mm wide X 40cm OD X 5mm pitch, we ll see if my measurements are correct… hopefully it s a match.
> 
> - LocoWoodWork


Old post!! But did this work??


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## LocoWoodWork (Feb 14, 2019)

Unfortunately not. A tad short. I've since purchased a PM 221 which is an awesome planner and only use the makita for jointing.


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

I started another topic about blades, but it hasn't drawn anything yet. Maybe we should start a master list for the 2030 owners on LJ?

Anyone have better luck with blades than Brazz and the Freud C610s? I'm considering having some made for me, but I'm not sure what it would cost.

Also it looks like the jointer blades are the same dimensions as the 2030N. True?


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## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

The 2030N blades are not the same size, they would have to be cut down to fit (what I did). The 2030N's are about a half inch too long. I broke down and bought the Deulen sharpening jig and tuned up the original blades. So that's not much help to others without blades or with deep nicks in blades.


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## muwhe (Oct 7, 2020)

Thanks for taking the time to document your restoration project on the Makita 2030.

I just picked up this one owner Makita 2030 machine the other day for $200.00. The owner replaced the rollers recently ( last 1-2 years ) and they appear to be in good shape. To my surprise at pick up it also came with an extra set of knives for both the planer and jointer sides, and some DIY dust collection adapters.

Only issue, is the handwheel is cracked still working but could use replacement.

Now to sort out a good solution for a mobile base for this unit.


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

$200 with newish rollers and extra blades? Awesome score! It's been a great machine for me.

Tuning mine to thickness without snipe was painless. In fact, I'm helping build an infeed/outfeed for a friend's dewalt based on the same roller design.

I have mine set on locking casters and spin it around as needed.


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## riverrat66 (Oct 25, 2020)

Brazz04, I have the 2030 (not "N") model. Two questions, are knives available and what is the height adjustment of the knives?
I sharpen my knives, but my bad, I should have taken a measurement before disassemble. 
Good job on the replacement handle wheel. They must all break.
Thanks,
riverrat66


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> [...] what is the height adjustment of the knives? I sharpen my knives, but my bad, I should have taken a measurement before disassemble.
> - riverrat66


You don't need any measurements - the knives are set flush with the casting flats using two hardwood blocks. One of the most simple knife setting procedures you will ever run across. Full procedure described in the manual.

Cheers,
Brad


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## riverrat66 (Oct 25, 2020)

Thanks MrUnix


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## RichKatz (Nov 28, 2020)

I've owned (but never used until recently) a 2030 for several years, and finally got around to sharpening the blades and plugging it in. I sharpened the jointer blades myself, using the sharpening guide that comes in the kit of extra goodies. The jointer now cleans off an edge that's smooth as silk. Because they're longer than the sharpening guide, I took the planer blades to Vexor here in Denver. They do a very nice job for $.75 per inch of blade-far cheaper than buying new ones. I haven't tested them out yet, because I'm about to tackle the job of adjusting the in-feed and out-feed rollers to the same height. (A little tricky, that! Any tips?)

Speaking of those extra pieces in the kit, does anybody know the purpose of the "extension guide?" Thanks!


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

Rich,

For adjusting the bed rollers I use a straight edge and feeler gauges. I start with the outside rollers and get them to equal clearance with the table (maybe 2 thou? Id have to check), then move to the inner rollers. The inner rollers should be raised until they just kiss the bottom of the straight edge, thereby giving you a straight line from one end to the other. Its a bit of an iterative process, but doesn't take all that long. Double check for twist and such, and you're good to go.

I try to keep boards 16"+ in length, much shorter and the board will only be supported by 1 roller at some points, resulting in a bit of snipe depending on the height of your rollers. I forget the minimum length in the manual, but it's smaller than I've ever wanted to put through.

Mine didn't come with a kit of parts when I bought it, so I'm not sure what the extension guide is either. Could you post a photo?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The manual describes setting the table rollers pretty well… and as for the 'extension guide' - it was not part of the original kit when they first started selling the 2030, so it is not described in the manual. It was however added sometime later as it is shown in the 'revised parts' publication. I'm not sure, but I believe it is part of the fence support, as those changed a few times over the years. Pictures would be great.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: I ignored the manual anyway and just used a dial indicator to set the table rollers


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## RichKatz (Nov 28, 2020)

Thanks, NickyMac and Brad for your replies. Both were very helpful. I used both of your techniques for leveling the in-feed & out-feed rollers, and got some very respectable results when I shot some scrap boards through the planer.

You asked about the extras that I obtained with the 2030, so I posted some photos here. Any help with the "Extension Guide" and the steel plate would be welcome.



















Thanks. Rich


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

Rich,

That looks like the extension arm that is added to the short arm of the jointer fence. It was lost long before I acquired mine. Give that a try.

You really scored some parts!

-Nick


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Nick is correct. Here is the revised parts diagram showing the difference between the Type 1 and Type 2 fence system - where Type 2 has the extension (Part *A10*):










Cheers,
Brad


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## JoelMandella (Dec 3, 2020)

Hey all, thanks for sharing all this knowledge. Sorry to interject here with a quick Makita 2030 (not sure Type 1, 2, or 3, but not N) restoration question for you: I've followed great advice on this forum especially yours, MrUnix, to remove the rollers (sent them to Western Roller for replacement)-in the process, I thoroughly buggered up the 8 JIS screws (4 per roller, 2 on each side) that hold the rollers in place.

I want to purchase socket head screws or another head type to replace these JIS screws to make future removal easier, but I don't know where to purchase screws that will match the tapped Makita 2030 holes but with different screw head shape from the original JIS! Can any of you point me to a purchasing source for doing what MrUnix suggested in this older post?

referring to: https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/303871


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Can any of you point me to a purchasing source for doing what MrUnix suggested in this older post?
> - JoelMandella


They are standard metric M5×16 screws, and you can find socket head replacements at any well stocked hardware store, like ACE, or even at the big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc…).

Cheers,
Brad


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## JoelMandella (Dec 3, 2020)

Thank you so much, Brad! I will do just that.


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

Yep, JIS just refers to the head slot. The tread and diameter will be standard metric


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## Adam987123 (Jan 21, 2021)

Hey Brazz04,

I know this is an old thread but was wondering if you could tell me how difficult it is to remove the jointer beds. I found one in my area I'm thinking of picking up but the only vehicle I have is too small to fit it with the jointer beds attached.



> Just wanted to post some pictures of my Makita 2030 restoration and give a few tips on anyone that may be restoring one! It was in pretty rough shape when I got it but had almost all the pieces still on it. I got most of the planer specific parts from ereplacementparts.com so that s a great source for parts. When I bought it, it was missing the crank handle for the planer portion and for the life of me I was unable to find a replacement, so I took a gamble on MMtoolsparts.com and bought the crank handle for a 2040 and thankfully it was an exact fit! A big thanks to MrUnix for getting me through the disassembly and working with the roll pins. I used some rust remover on the heavily rusted parts and that seemed to really eat the rust off in quick order. I used Rustoleum Hammered Verde Green and put a new coat of paint on everything. I am only missing the guard for the jointer side so if anyone has any information on where I could find one please let me know!
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> ...


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

It is more involved than what you will be able to accomplish in the field. You can remove the in-feed table fairly easily, but that is about it. Plan on transporting it whole.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Adam987123 (Jan 21, 2021)

Ah dang, thanks.

I just read in the manual that the unit weighs 330 pounds! Is it really that heavy?? I actually think I can fit it in my car's trunk (printed dimensions say 31"x60"x30" and my car's trunk is 39" wide at its narrowest point) but dang that's heavy.

Are any pieces of it removable just to get the weight down?

Or would it be possible to lift it with a shop/engine hoist without damaging it?



> It is more involved than what you will be able to accomplish in the field. You can remove the in-feed table fairly easily, but that is about it. Plan on transporting it whole.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


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## RichKatz (Nov 28, 2020)

Adam, my manual says the 2030 weighs 276 lbs. (Which version of the manual are you looking at?) My son, a neighbor, and I lifted my machine off of the poorly constructed home-made base that it was on when I bought it used-so I could build a sturdier base-and then we lifted it onto the new base a couple days later. It really wasn't difficult with two of us grabbing the ends of the jointer's infeed and outfeed beds and my son lifting the gearbox side. However, we had to lift it only about 8-10 inches each time. With some muscle, you and a couple buddies could probably get it as high as the bed of a pickup, but I definitely recommend against trying to fit it into the trunk of your car.

By the way, the machine is well worth the effort. After some tune-up and sharpening, I'm getting some pretty beautiful boards out of it!

Rich


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## Adam987123 (Jan 21, 2021)

The manual I found online is here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/98366/Makita-2030n.html

On the bottom of the first page it says net weight is 150KG (330lbs). Is there any chance you/anyone else could measure how tall it is without any base or anything attached to it? The printed dimensions say it's 30 1/2" tall but I think that might be with the 2×4's attached as a base and that difference might be enough for me to get it home.

Is there a reason to not put it in a trunk? I should have specified it's a wagon not like a small sedan or something. With the seats down, I should have a space that is 39"x73"x30" so, depending on height without any base, it may just squeeze in
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2005.html#warranty

I also have a few 2"x10"x8' boards sitting in the garage, I could bring those as loading ramps and slowly work it up to trunk height.



> Adam, my manual says the 2030 weighs 276 lbs. (Which version of the manual are you looking at?) My neighbor and I lifted my machine off of the poorly constructed home-made base that it was on when I bought it used-so I could build a sturdier base-and then we lifted it onto the new base a couple days later. It really wasn t difficult with two of us doing that, each of us more or less grabbing the jointer s infeed and outfeed beds. However, we had to lift it only about 8-10 inches each time. With some muscle, you and a buddy could probably get it as high as the bed of a pickup, but I definitely recommend against trying to fit it into the trunk of your car.
> 
> By the way, the machine is well worth the effort. After some tune-up and sharpening, I m getting some beautiful boards out of it!
> 
> ...


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Just realized you are asking about the 2030*N*... The 2030 and 2030N are not the same machine.

Cheers,
Brad


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

> Is there a reason to not put it in a trunk? I should have specified it s a wagon not like a small sedan or something. With the seats down, I should have a space that is 39"x73"x30" so, depending on height without any base, it may just squeeze in
> http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2005.html#warranty
> 
> I also have a few 2"x10"x8 boards sitting in the garage, I could bring those as loading ramps and slowly work it up to trunk height.
> ...


Seems a bit dicey but if you're going to do it, make sure you get out of the way if something starts to go. Oh, and video it!


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## RichKatz (Nov 28, 2020)

Adam,

Here are the dimensions of my 2030 (not 2030N):

59" long (with the jointer's infeed bed cranked high to shorten it as much as possible);

27" wide (loosen the bolt and remove the handcrank that raises & lowers the planer infeed/outfeed table-you'll gain up to an inch of side-clearance that way);

25" high from the bottom of the cast iron base to the top of the jointer fence (loosen and remove the vertical gauge bar. You could easily remove the fence, too; removing it will reduce the height an extra 2-3").

That's about as tight a package as you can make this this thing without doing a complete tear-down. Whether you use your car for transporting the 2030 is completely up to you; I make no recommendation one way or the other.

Good luck!

Rich


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## riverrat66 (Oct 25, 2020)

Hey NickyMac:
Did you ever locate a set of planer blades for the 2030 (not 'N' model?
Thanks


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## NickyMac (Feb 17, 2020)

Nope. That's Future-Nick's problem! (that guy gets screwed alot)

I contacted a few local machine shops about getting some custom made, but there's always the modified Freud knives that were mentioned earlier in the thread.

Make a honing jig, take fine cuts, and keep your fingers crossed!


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