# What is Danish Oil



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I know this is a very popular finish but I'm unclear as to exactly what it's composed of. Is it an oil/poly/MS combo? or what?


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I think it's a type of tung oil


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

from wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil

Danish oil is a wood finishing oil, made of either Tung oil or Polymerized Linseed oil.

Danish oil is a hard drying oil which provides a tough, water-resistant finish. It can be used as a finish, or as a primer or sealer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish.

When used, Danish oil provides a satin finish and provides coverage of approx 12.5 sq. m/l (600 sq. ft./gallon) and is usually applied over a course of three coats by brush or cloth, with any excess being wiped off shortly after application. The finish is left to dry for around 6-24 hours between coats, depending on the mixture being used and the wood being treated.

Rags used for Danish oil may spontaneously combust and start fires, so it is best to dry rags flat before disposing of them.


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

I found the same definition as David. (above)

I get pretty much the same results using boiled Lindseed Oil and then a cut down polyurethane coat, at a lot less expense.

i don't make those big horse doctor bucks !
(only kidding Andy) lol


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

It is basically an oil/varnish blend, with some properties of both, usually wiped on. Key concept is that it both penetrates and builds up a finish - though the 'build' is minimal, it can barely be felt. The oil can be a linseed or tung oil base. The drying oil component of the varnish (resin + solvent +drying oil) is usually something with the same base- I am not aware of a Danish oil blend that has polyurethane, though it is probably possible.

Woodwrecker is getting similar results because it is not that different in effect.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

There's a lot of mystery to Danish oil, but it is chiefly tung or linseed oil that has been polymerized for faster drying. Many Danish oils also include varnish resins to allow it to build up a thin film coat, but that varies with the product and, IME, doesn't really happen in practice. It's perhaps just a part of the polymerization..

Many people will opt for their own mixtures of oil/varnish blends, combining BLO or tung oil with something like a polyurethane varnish and a solvent like mineral spirits or turpentine. The ratios of the mixes vary from kettle to kettle, but Krenov was known for liking an even 1:1:1 mix of the three parts. Regardless, doing it yourself will build a better film finish than any of the danish oil products.

That said, I like Danish oil. It's fast drying and does the job of any typical oil…I just don't look for it to build up any type of finish.

BTW, some Danish oil brands like the Watco advertise the "varnish" nature of the product. Others like Tried and True make no mention of hardening outside the polymerization of the oil itself. But most feel the spirit of the Danish oil is as described above…an oil/varnish blend.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

it starts out from the mogambo nut….....LOL…ok andy i wont go any further, you didnt comment on my last funny post so i guess , well never mind…if anyone wants to know, well forget it, a bored man who thought he was funny…


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## Kelby (Oct 19, 2011)

My favorite finish. Easy to mix your own, easy to apply (although it takes some time), and delivers phenominal results if you are patient.

Here's my system (after sanding your project to 220 grit):

1. Mix equal parts mineral spirits, oil (either linseed or tung), and varnish (you can use poly, but I don't like it quite as well).

2. Use a brush or paper towel to apply a coat over the wood, and let it sit for 15-30 minutes (varies by temp, humidity, and products you are using in your mix). Don't let it get tacky.

3. Using paper towels or rags, wipe off all excess. Be VERY CAREFUL to let your rags/paper towels dry in a safe way-they can spontaneously combust if you put oily rags in a pile.

4. Let dry 24 hours.

5. Repeat steps 2-4. However, this time, after applying the Danish oil and before wiping the excess, wet-sand your project with 320 grit wet or dry. Then wipe the excess oil off.

6. Repeat step 5, but this time go up to 400 grit.

7. Repeat with 600 grit.

8. Go up as high as you like-I personally prefer to go to 2000 grit.

This process takes at least a week, because you need to let it dry 24 hours between each coat.

When finished, I prefer to apply a coat of wax.

The finish brings out the color of the wood and gives a very light lustre to it, but does not look like it has a coating it the way lacquer or varnish/urethane do. Sanded very fine with a coat of wax, the project feels extremely soft and smooth and compels people to touch it.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

You guys are all wrong. Making Danish oil involves a bunch of Scandinavians and a very large garlic press.


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## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

That's right Charlie, and they use that squeezed oil to add to puff pastry breakfast cakes, hence Danish Pastries.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Thanks for all the quick responses. That's why I love this site. I was curious as to whether you could build up some thickness since I thought it contained poly or "varnish". I guess my next post will be : what is "varnish"??? Roger and Charlie are currently in a parallel universe so don't mind them! And my friend Grizz is always kinda in a world of his own


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## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

gfadvm, my next question will be: Isn't it past your bedtime?


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

G'night all.


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## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

Goodnight Andy, Charlie and I will carry on cruisin'


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I too think it is made up of a bunch of Danes. 

I've never gone past three coats. I'd like to try the methods above. Thanks for sharing.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

have you tried the stuff
on your arms

after you deal with the horses


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I use danish oil on every project that I do not stain. It really helps "pop" interesting grain. I use it as a substitute for stain though; not as a finish. It offers very little protection because you cannot build it. The wood can only take so much, then you have a gummy mess. I get the best results using Flexner's recommended application.

1 - FLOOD the surface. I just pour it right on out of the jar. I let it set for 15 to 20 minutes, touching up any dry spots, then wipe it down. I check on it every few hours to see if anything is weeping out of the pours in the wood, and wipe it clean, then let it sit overnight

2 - The next day I sand down the piece with 400 grit, remove the dust, and apply another coat with a foam brush or rag. I let that sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe it down. Same process as above for repeated checks and then I let it dry a good 5 to 7 days.

3 - Apply topcoat. I generally use a wiping varnish of some sort.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

That's the way I do it, Joe.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

This danish old is actually linseed that is boiled to help it dry not wiht dangerous japn driers http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45105&cat=1,190,42942
i like it and use it alot


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I always assumed Danish Oil was a mix of oil and varnish but seeing the question I looked up the MSDS's and it varies by brand. Watco is (50-60%) naphtha and (20-30%) linseed oil. Reading through several different brands, most were primarily naphtha, some listed tung or linseed oil and some didn't; none contained alkyds (varnish). I learned something.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

wormil…That's why I called it a "mystery." LOL!


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## ETwoodworks (Jan 10, 2011)

The method above is alot of work but its beautifull on walnut.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Danish Oil was the finish of choice back in the day before Polyurethane and Varnish. Use mainly on hardwood floors and furniture. Watco one of the oldest manufacturer of Danish oil has a variety of tinted Danish oil on the market. One of my favorite is the light walnut color oil which add a nice golden-brown hue on maple and cherry. Very easy to use but beware of oily rags discard once thoroughly air dry, very combustible. Give these type of color Danish oil a try you'll really like how the grain pops…BC


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Wormil- Great info. I always assumed it contained some type of poly. Just naptha and BLO. Who knew?


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I think I have every color of Danish oil on the market. Love the stuff on hardwoods and cedar.


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## Alongiron (Jan 10, 2011)

Danish oil with a couple coats of Shellac is an old fashion finish that has been around for a many many years. It gives you that " I made that and finished that project" project that you can be proud that will be passed down to many generations…


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Note: Watco Danish Oil is a blend of about 75% Mineral Spirits with Raw Linseed Oil (not BLO), Modified Soya Bean Oil, Resins (esp. Alyd, no "Poly") and colorants (esp. Gilsonite). Other ingredients may be present.

Generally, so-called Danish Oils usually contain a variety of drying oils (linseed, soya, tung oil, etc.), various resins or varnishes, colorants, and solvents. There are no standards for the composition of "Danish Oil." One manufacture markets a so-called "Danish Oil" which only contains pure oil (Heat-treated Linseed Oil).

Usually the generic term "Danish Oil" is meaningless because there is no consistency between brands.

Blessings.


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## Bagtown (Mar 9, 2008)

I have a jar of homemade finish mixed 1:1:1 BLO, Beeswax, and Turpentine.
Melted all together.
Sitting on the shelf sometimes the wax starts to firm up so before use I'' set it in the sun.
Nice sheen finish, not to shiny or flashy.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Well, I'm perfectly clear on Danish Oil composition now! LOL Sounds like there are a lot of variations out there.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Apparently. MSDS's differ just on Watco, some say mineral spirits, some say naphtha. Maybe they are using different names for the same thing or maybe the formulation varies by country. Anyway you slice it, it's mostly thinner.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

CharlieM1958 I think you are correct but they actually use a grape press 'cause a garlic press it just to small!


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## MartiTx (Jan 10, 2012)

What brand names are your favorites?


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Watco seems to have a solid presence in the market for these oils. If you stick with one brand, you know what to expect.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Say what you will about it's ingredients, but I get fantastic results with the Watco stuff. I use the natural a lot. The medium walnut is beautiful as well.

I don't use Danish oil as a finish on furniture though. I do finish boxes and other small items with it. I use it to pop the grain on furniture and apply some sort of varnish after. I don't think any brand or home brew offers enough protection on furniture.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

MartiTx; I just bought a can of deft danish oil. It was cheaper than watco, but the main reason is for my uses; I'll be using it for some small boxes and it's what doug stowe uses. I like the way his boxes come out.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

+1 for Watco


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I was hoping hObOmOnk would chime in. He seems to know a lot about this stuff.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

Danish Oil is just about anything a manufacturer wants it to be … really … there is no formal definition for it.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Watco oil finishes are the only ones I use and I trust them because they are part of RustOleum which has an outstanding product line and stands behind all of their products.

I am glad that Watco did not disappear when they were in financial trouble and RustOleum bought them as would I have hated to see that product line disappear!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Today I was looking at an old project finished with Danish oil and it still looks great but has been put away and is very dusty but I'm not sure what to clean it with. The oil doesn't leave a film finish and the dust has sort of gotten into the grain.


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## MartiTx (Jan 10, 2012)

I want to try that sometime Kelby, it sounds like a solid finish.

Right now I am refinishing my kitchen cabinets. I began with a Danish oil made by Glidden and it was great. Ran out of it and bought Watco. I'm not quite as crazy about it, though it looks better than polyurethane, thin and applied with cloth. However, I'm concerned about the overall protection from water from the Watco. I wonder if it would be worth it to put on a coat of wax, or a thin topcoat of polyurethane?

Also, can anyone direct me to a moderator or administrator that I can PM about a posting problem I'm having?


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

As I mentioned before, Danish oil provides very little protection. Wax will not give you much more. On kitchen cabinets, you should definitely put more than a thin coat of poly on (or your finish of choice). General Finishes enduro is great for cabinets.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Wormil, try blowing it off with your compressor.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Top coat with Arm R Seal 
http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

wormil - Try Mineral Spirits. Then re-coat with your D.O.


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