# Gil-Bilt 18" Band Saw build



## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*The kit *

I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.

After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

mountainaxe said:


> *The kit *
> 
> I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.
> 
> After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


How fun…..


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## Raizinmoon (Sep 5, 2017)

mountainaxe said:


> *The kit *
> 
> I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.
> 
> After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


i just acquired one these in bad condition and I am looking for a copy of the plans Any suggestions? I really want to re-build this


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## ChuckTaylor (Aug 18, 2021)

mountainaxe said:


> *The kit *
> 
> I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.
> 
> After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


Does anyone by chance know how I can get my hands on the plans for a Gillioms 18" Bandsaw?
I inherited my Dads that we built back in the 80s and the base of the cabinet is rotten pretty bad. I need to rebuild a few peices but they are in such bad shape that I can't use them as a pattern or just measure and rebuild. Any help would be much appreciated. You can email me at [email protected] 
Thanks


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## CMcCarty (Dec 10, 2021)

mountainaxe said:


> *The kit *
> 
> I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.
> 
> After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


I have the 18"model. I acquired it from some guy who inherited it from an uncle. It was taken(torn) apart removing it from the basement. Would it be possible to share the section of plans concerning construction of the table. Mine works, but not well. I know I have got something screwed up. Thank you.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *The kit *
> 
> I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.
> 
> After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


I was receiving many of these requests so posted them on the vintagemachinery.org website. Look under Gilliom publication reprints. Enjoy.


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## CMcCarty (Dec 10, 2021)

mountainaxe said:


> *The kit *
> 
> I've always wanted a big band saw, but never wanted to spend a pile of $$$ for one. I've suffered with a C-man tilt head band saw for a couple of years and it's simply terrible. I found a couple of threads regarding Gilliom Manufacturing, Inc., Gil-Bilt 18" band saws on this site and started looking for one on-line. The company has been making woodworking machine kits since the 1940s…and I believe they're still in business.
> 
> After a lot of searching, I found a NOS kit from 1982 for $120…it was complete and in unopened condition; in the original boxes wrapped in the original newspaper. Everything means everything…down to hardware, tires, blade, etc. It even came with two sets of plans and other brochures. Also included is a speed reducing kit enabling the saw to cut steel. I salvaged the C-man band saw 1/2hp motor and threw the carcass to to curb. So my plan is to build this machine and document my efforts as I go. Here are initial photos of what I purchased:


Mountainaxe: Thank you so much! I have been looking for years for this.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*First steps*

One of the selling points for this kit was that you only need to use one sheet of plywood and some hardwood or pine. I opted to use HD materials…3/4" hardwood plywood and solid oak. The plans thoughtfully provide a materials list and a cutting diagram. Cutting the plywood pieces using the full sized templates was simple as you just trace the pieces and cut with a jigsaw. I decided to use oak for the vertical spine as this is where a majority of stress is placed on the saw when to blade is put under tension. I laminated two 3/4" oak boards to give me the correct thickness. I also decided to brace the back to give it additional strength and stiffness. The motor mount was made with a piece of pine and laminated 3/4" plywood…the motor pivots back and forth as needed to place the pulleys under tension in the completed saw. Photos below show how far I got this weekend.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

mountainaxe said:


> *First steps*
> 
> One of the selling points for this kit was that you only need to use one sheet of plywood and some hardwood or pine. I opted to use HD materials…3/4" hardwood plywood and solid oak. The plans thoughtfully provide a materials list and a cutting diagram. Cutting the plywood pieces using the full sized templates was simple as you just trace the pieces and cut with a jigsaw. I decided to use oak for the vertical spine as this is where a majority of stress is placed on the saw when to blade is put under tension. I laminated two 3/4" oak boards to give me the correct thickness. I also decided to brace the back to give it additional strength and stiffness. The motor mount was made with a piece of pine and laminated 3/4" plywood…the motor pivots back and forth as needed to place the pulleys under tension in the completed saw. Photos below show how far I got this weekend.


Your shop looks much too clean and orderly. Mine in comparison looks like a garbage dump. Nice work so far.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

mountainaxe said:


> *First steps*
> 
> One of the selling points for this kit was that you only need to use one sheet of plywood and some hardwood or pine. I opted to use HD materials…3/4" hardwood plywood and solid oak. The plans thoughtfully provide a materials list and a cutting diagram. Cutting the plywood pieces using the full sized templates was simple as you just trace the pieces and cut with a jigsaw. I decided to use oak for the vertical spine as this is where a majority of stress is placed on the saw when to blade is put under tension. I laminated two 3/4" oak boards to give me the correct thickness. I also decided to brace the back to give it additional strength and stiffness. The motor mount was made with a piece of pine and laminated 3/4" plywood…the motor pivots back and forth as needed to place the pulleys under tension in the completed saw. Photos below show how far I got this weekend.


Duplicate post.


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## Fred83 (Dec 26, 2020)

mountainaxe said:


> *First steps*
> 
> One of the selling points for this kit was that you only need to use one sheet of plywood and some hardwood or pine. I opted to use HD materials…3/4" hardwood plywood and solid oak. The plans thoughtfully provide a materials list and a cutting diagram. Cutting the plywood pieces using the full sized templates was simple as you just trace the pieces and cut with a jigsaw. I decided to use oak for the vertical spine as this is where a majority of stress is placed on the saw when to blade is put under tension. I laminated two 3/4" oak boards to give me the correct thickness. I also decided to brace the back to give it additional strength and stiffness. The motor mount was made with a piece of pine and laminated 3/4" plywood…the motor pivots back and forth as needed to place the pulleys under tension in the completed saw. Photos below show how far I got this weekend.


MountainAxe - nice build.

I've had a box of gil-bilt 18" band saw parts for several years, but never had the plans for the plywood cutouts, do you, or do you know anyone that has dimension plans for these? I'd really appreciate your help.

Thanks!


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *First steps*
> 
> One of the selling points for this kit was that you only need to use one sheet of plywood and some hardwood or pine. I opted to use HD materials…3/4" hardwood plywood and solid oak. The plans thoughtfully provide a materials list and a cutting diagram. Cutting the plywood pieces using the full sized templates was simple as you just trace the pieces and cut with a jigsaw. I decided to use oak for the vertical spine as this is where a majority of stress is placed on the saw when to blade is put under tension. I laminated two 3/4" oak boards to give me the correct thickness. I also decided to brace the back to give it additional strength and stiffness. The motor mount was made with a piece of pine and laminated 3/4" plywood…the motor pivots back and forth as needed to place the pulleys under tension in the completed saw. Photos below show how far I got this weekend.


I notice that in almost every article on Gil-Bilt builds that the builder choses to reinforce some part or another. I wonder how many of these mods are must-do vs a lack of confidence in the original design. Were there any mods you made that you now feel were unnecessary and on the other hand, were there improvements you wish you would have made during the build? Thanks for sharing and I'm off to part 3. Scott


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *First steps*
> 
> One of the selling points for this kit was that you only need to use one sheet of plywood and some hardwood or pine. I opted to use HD materials…3/4" hardwood plywood and solid oak. The plans thoughtfully provide a materials list and a cutting diagram. Cutting the plywood pieces using the full sized templates was simple as you just trace the pieces and cut with a jigsaw. I decided to use oak for the vertical spine as this is where a majority of stress is placed on the saw when to blade is put under tension. I laminated two 3/4" oak boards to give me the correct thickness. I also decided to brace the back to give it additional strength and stiffness. The motor mount was made with a piece of pine and laminated 3/4" plywood…the motor pivots back and forth as needed to place the pulleys under tension in the completed saw. Photos below show how far I got this weekend.


The column really needs extra support due to the extreme tension put on when in use…you need to minimize flex. A torsion box setup is a simple and inexpensive fix. I later added a goose neck light that I find useful. It could use a mobile base, but I really like the stability of keeping it flat on the shop floor to avoid flexing and vibration. Overall, I think the design was well thought out, inexpensive, practical and user friendly.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Drive Shaft Assembly*

I fabricated the bearing support beam by laminating three pieces of 1/2" plywood and trimming it to 1 1/2" x 9×21 1/8" dimensions. I then drilled 11/32" holes in two edges to mate with holes in right and left ends of the carcass. The kit included four special half round washers to hold the bolts. The beam has the ability to be adjusted forward; the purpose is to tilt the lower wheel downward to off-set the tendency of the wheel to be lifted up by blade tension. Next I installed bearing blocks on the 3/4" drive shaft and bolted it to the beam. I positioned the shaft in the middle of the beam. Here's the final product:


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

mountainaxe said:


> *Drive Shaft Assembly*
> 
> I fabricated the bearing support beam by laminating three pieces of 1/2" plywood and trimming it to 1 1/2" x 9×21 1/8" dimensions. I then drilled 11/32" holes in two edges to mate with holes in right and left ends of the carcass. The kit included four special half round washers to hold the bolts. The beam has the ability to be adjusted forward; the purpose is to tilt the lower wheel downward to off-set the tendency of the wheel to be lifted up by blade tension. Next I installed bearing blocks on the 3/4" drive shaft and bolted it to the beam. I positioned the shaft in the middle of the beam. Here's the final product:


Sounds like a fun project. Be sure to let us know how it turns out and especially how it works as a saw. Were guides supplied with the kit? Since this is an 18" saw, I think you will need a bit more HP than 1/2; more like 1 HP, but that can come later.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Drive Shaft Assembly*
> 
> I fabricated the bearing support beam by laminating three pieces of 1/2" plywood and trimming it to 1 1/2" x 9×21 1/8" dimensions. I then drilled 11/32" holes in two edges to mate with holes in right and left ends of the carcass. The kit included four special half round washers to hold the bolts. The beam has the ability to be adjusted forward; the purpose is to tilt the lower wheel downward to off-set the tendency of the wheel to be lifted up by blade tension. Next I installed bearing blocks on the 3/4" drive shaft and bolted it to the beam. I positioned the shaft in the middle of the beam. Here's the final product:


It's been fun so far. Guides were part of the kit and I'll install them later. Gilliom recommends a 1/2hp motor, but this is their advice:

"The No. 451 Gil-Bilt 18 inch Bandsaw, designed primarily for home workshops, is classified for light to medium duty only. Due to the limitation of the wood construction and other design features, this machine should not be used with motors larger than 3/4 hp or blades wider than 1/2 inch."


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Motor mount, etc.*

I spent some time cutting/installing pieces (from templates) on the right side that will support the tilting table. They are basically a sandwich of plywood/hardwood you can see on the attached photo…nothing too complicated, but the notches and holes have to line up exactly. Also bolted the rear and right sides to the carcass with bolts and screws. Spent some time bolting the motor down and installing the blocks and pulleys. I'll start working on the table next.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *Motor mount, etc.*
> 
> I spent some time cutting/installing pieces (from templates) on the right side that will support the tilting table. They are basically a sandwich of plywood/hardwood you can see on the attached photo…nothing too complicated, but the notches and holes have to line up exactly. Also bolted the rear and right sides to the carcass with bolts and screws. Spent some time bolting the motor down and installing the blocks and pulleys. I'll start working on the table next.


Nice. How often to you find yourself tilting the table and was it worth the effort to include this capability? Scott


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Motor mount, etc.*
> 
> I spent some time cutting/installing pieces (from templates) on the right side that will support the tilting table. They are basically a sandwich of plywood/hardwood you can see on the attached photo…nothing too complicated, but the notches and holes have to line up exactly. Also bolted the rear and right sides to the carcass with bolts and screws. Spent some time bolting the motor down and installing the blocks and pulleys. I'll start working on the table next.


Honestly, the tilting table is not critical to me…but nice to have on rare occasions. It is really one of the more fussy pieces if the build so I noticed that some I've seen on the web left off this feature.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*The table*

The tilting table took more time and consideration than I'd expected. First, I decided to make the table by laminating two pieces of 1/2" plywood with sandwiched strips of flat-iron, ala "Mr. Sawdust." This will ensure I have no future warping. So the table is basically two pieces, that when combined, measure about 24" x 28"...a big work surface. The table is mounted to the saw via two hinges; the table has notches that I cut out by hand and filed with a rasp so that the times are flush with the top surface of the table. I made a crosspiece out of oak that hold the two pieces together. After this was complete, I dado'd a 3/4" groove for the miter gauge. A ruler was screwed on and two aluminum channels screwed to hold the rip fence. I made a kirf wide cut to accommodate blade changes. Lots of work to put this together, but this is what it looks like from the underside:








I also made an off/on switch from an old Unisaw part and a toggle I had on hand…thought it looked cool.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *The table*
> 
> The tilting table took more time and consideration than I'd expected. First, I decided to make the table by laminating two pieces of 1/2" plywood with sandwiched strips of flat-iron, ala "Mr. Sawdust." This will ensure I have no future warping. So the table is basically two pieces, that when combined, measure about 24" x 28"...a big work surface. The table is mounted to the saw via two hinges; the table has notches that I cut out by hand and filed with a rasp so that the times are flush with the top surface of the table. I made a crosspiece out of oak that hold the two pieces together. After this was complete, I dado'd a 3/4" groove for the miter gauge. A ruler was screwed on and two aluminum channels screwed to hold the rip fence. I made a kirf wide cut to accommodate blade changes. Lots of work to put this together, but this is what it looks like from the underside:
> 
> ...


Coming along quite nicely. That Unisaw switch is really sharp. I'm enjoying following along.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *The table*
> 
> The tilting table took more time and consideration than I'd expected. First, I decided to make the table by laminating two pieces of 1/2" plywood with sandwiched strips of flat-iron, ala "Mr. Sawdust." This will ensure I have no future warping. So the table is basically two pieces, that when combined, measure about 24" x 28"...a big work surface. The table is mounted to the saw via two hinges; the table has notches that I cut out by hand and filed with a rasp so that the times are flush with the top surface of the table. I made a crosspiece out of oak that hold the two pieces together. After this was complete, I dado'd a 3/4" groove for the miter gauge. A ruler was screwed on and two aluminum channels screwed to hold the rip fence. I made a kirf wide cut to accommodate blade changes. Lots of work to put this together, but this is what it looks like from the underside:
> 
> ...


I guess I need to Google the reference to Mr. Sawdust. I remember him from his saw blades and funky twisted molder knives, but don't recall anything about sandwiching table parts. Perhaps a RAS mod? Scott


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *The table*
> 
> The tilting table took more time and consideration than I'd expected. First, I decided to make the table by laminating two pieces of 1/2" plywood with sandwiched strips of flat-iron, ala "Mr. Sawdust." This will ensure I have no future warping. So the table is basically two pieces, that when combined, measure about 24" x 28"...a big work surface. The table is mounted to the saw via two hinges; the table has notches that I cut out by hand and filed with a rasp so that the times are flush with the top surface of the table. I made a crosspiece out of oak that hold the two pieces together. After this was complete, I dado'd a 3/4" groove for the miter gauge. A ruler was screwed on and two aluminum channels screwed to hold the rip fence. I made a kirf wide cut to accommodate blade changes. Lots of work to put this together, but this is what it looks like from the underside:
> 
> ...


Exactly…technique originally used for RAS tables…really keeps the table from ever warping.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Wheels, tensioner, etc.*

Last night I used a jigsaw to fabricate the pieces that make up the top wheel cover and supports based on the full sized templates. I attached the tensioner to the back piece and then attached it to the support column with screws/bolts using two horizontal supports. I made a slight modification to this piece by adding a spring; this should take some of the tension off the structure itself when the blade is tightened.




























I also installed the previously built drive shaft assembly and door. The kit came with rubber tires that were fairly easy to get on the wheels. The wheels and the large pulley went on the carcass without too much fuss after installing an additional support piece.










The next piece installed was the lower blade guide. It was a little tight getting it screwed in and I was nervous about getting it straight and aligned. After placing the blade on the wheels, everything checked out. Notice the retro brass guide blocks!










So…this is what things look like now. Starting to look like a band saw!


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *Wheels, tensioner, etc.*
> 
> Last night I used a jigsaw to fabricate the pieces that make up the top wheel cover and supports based on the full sized templates. I attached the tensioner to the back piece and then attached it to the support column with screws/bolts using two horizontal supports. I made a slight modification to this piece by adding a spring; this should take some of the tension off the structure itself when the blade is tightened.
> 
> ...


It really is looking like a bandsaw!


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Attaching table to frame*

The next step was to attach the assembled table to the frame. I first placed the blade on the wheels. Then I removed the front channel from the table and set it in position on the frame with hinges against the hinge support. I ensured the table was square and then drilled 1/4" holes in the table hinge support to mate with the top holes in the hinges. Bottom hinge holes were located and drilled through the 1" diameter access holes in the right end. I bolted hinges to the support…it took some shimming between the hinges and hinge support to ensure squareness with the blade. I also ensured the table was able to tilt to a 45 degree angle…this took a few extra strokes with a file on the hinge notches. The next step was to make and attach two tilt lock support blocks to the frame. As seen in the photos, there is a metal rod that extends through the blocks and attaches to the metal tilt supports. A tilt lock handwheel is used to tighten and loosen the table. Attaching the table to the frame took extra time and pieces needed to be filed/adjusted to ensure proper fit. With that said, it came out fine when complete.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *Attaching table to frame*
> 
> The next step was to attach the assembled table to the frame. I first placed the blade on the wheels. Then I removed the front channel from the table and set it in position on the frame with hinges against the hinge support. I ensured the table was square and then drilled 1/4" holes in the table hinge support to mate with the top holes in the hinges. Bottom hinge holes were located and drilled through the 1" diameter access holes in the right end. I bolted hinges to the support…it took some shimming between the hinges and hinge support to ensure squareness with the blade. I also ensured the table was able to tilt to a 45 degree angle…this took a few extra strokes with a file on the hinge notches. The next step was to make and attach two tilt lock support blocks to the frame. As seen in the photos, there is a metal rod that extends through the blocks and attaches to the metal tilt supports. A tilt lock handwheel is used to tighten and loosen the table. Attaching the table to the frame took extra time and pieces needed to be filed/adjusted to ensure proper fit. With that said, it came out fine when complete.


That came out very nice. Scott


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Rip fence*

The plans call for a rather simple rip fence fabricated from hardwood. I decided to use some leftover 3/4" oak to make my fence. I laminated two pieces together and dado'd a channel in the top to accept stops, clamps, etc. The shorter piece bolted to the metal clamp/indicator (that runs on the aluminum channels) and I attached this piece to the fence proper with a single dowel. The fence is simple to remove from the table when not in use. Think it looks good.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *Rip fence*
> 
> The plans call for a rather simple rip fence fabricated from hardwood. I decided to use some leftover 3/4" oak to make my fence. I laminated two pieces together and dado'd a channel in the top to accept stops, clamps, etc. The shorter piece bolted to the metal clamp/indicator (that runs on the aluminum channels) and I attached this piece to the fence proper with a single dowel. The fence is simple to remove from the table when not in use. Think it looks good.


You aren't wrong about how cool that fence looks. Scott


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Completion!*

The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!


















Couldn't resist putting on a final touch for bragging rights!


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


Very interesting build and well done. Just waiting for the moment of truth when you turn it on.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


Nice job, Jeff! What's next? Painting? Putting it on a wheeled stand?


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


I'm thinking about staining/sealing it since I used oak and oak plywood. Comments? I decided not to use a mobile base at this point; the saw is not as heavy as cast iron models and I'd like to see how it performs fully flat on the concrete floor first. I'll likely put the saw through it's paces some time this week and will provide info on what I learn.

As for next projects, I was fortunate enough to be given a 1970's vintage Gil-Bilt belt sander kit/plans this month…going to give that a go next. For what it's worth, building your own tools is incredibly satisfying…and fun.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


Beautiful and I really dig the nameplate! That is such a classy touch. So, how does she work? Scott


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


Works well…a little fussy in keeping it in adjustment and a bit underpowered…


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## beachmac (May 23, 2014)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


Pretty enough to keep in your living room.

A work of art.


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## ChuckTaylor (Aug 18, 2021)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


Looks awesome!!
Do you by chance still have the plans for that?


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> The last steps in this project didn't take too much time. First, I attached the front top panel to the two hinges. Next, I attached a guide support made from two 1/2" plywood pieces to the rear upper wheel cover. This piece also has two hanger bolts to mate with holes in the front upper wheel cover. There are also two thumb nuts and bolts for adjusting the blade guide. The blade guide fits over these bolts and can slide up and down by loosening the nuts. I next screwed the metal blade guard to the support column. The last step was to make a baseboard; I used a 2×6 pine board and dressed it up before gluing and screwing in down. This project in now complete. With that said, should I stain and seal it? Not sure at this point. I'm looking forward to tuning this machine up and putting it to use!
> 
> ...


I have received numerous requests for Gilliom Manufacturing Inc., Gilliom Gil-Bilt 18" Bandsaw Plans #451/454. The plans are now available for viewing and download at:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=26002

Enjoy!


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