# Insulating and Paneling Garage Walls



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

Hey friends, so I'm planning on doing some very basic insulation in my garage for winter. I live in west Michigan, so the winters get cold. I'd like to keep the shop in the 40's when I'm not using it. I'm thinking of running an oil filled radiant heater in there. My dad does this up north and it seems to do the trick.

I'm going to use rolled fiberglass insulation, just the 3 inch stuff, cheap. But paneling the walls is another thing I'm not familiar with. I was thinking hardboard or 1/8" plywood, but even those are more money than just drywall. BUT, if I drywall, then tape and do a basic basic putty job, and paint, that might cost more than thin ply. If i do ply, I don't think I'd paint it.

Any help would be appreciated. Just curious what people in similar situations have done.

Here is basically what the shop is now. (It's a mess is progress)










Thanks

Jim


----------



## Madwood (Jan 17, 2010)

Jim, for the cost of the plywood, I would go with 7/16" OSB. Better insulation value, cheaper than 1/4" ply and makes hanging cabinets and and such alot easier. You can paint it if you wish to brighten up the place. When you insulate the walls, make sure you put a vapor barrier between the insulation and whatever you cover it with. Make sure your ceiling is insulated as well, you'll thank me for that.

Oh yeah, I'm in central NY, right in the snow belt area, so I know about cold and snow. 

John


----------



## Trap (Nov 2, 2014)

Jim spend your money on insulation, you could use 1/2" rigid over the fiberglass batt. 1/2 rigid insulation has an r value of 2.3 to 3.25. OSB is .48. The foam board will be easy to install, and when you come into some money you can drywall, or sheath right over it.
Good Luck

Trap


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Like Madwood stated, 7/16" OSB will allow you to hang anything anywhere. It was already on the walls of my shop when I bought the house and painted white. I would highly recommend this as having everything white makes whatever lighting you have seem brighter.


----------



## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

I would use a good quality insulation and then drywall on the bottom half and 1/2 " plywood or OSB on the top half so you can screw stuff to it an not have to always find a stud. Drywall on the bottom half since your most likely not going to be hanging much from that area.
I am in Ca. now but spent my first 20 years in Illinois and it does get cold there too.


----------



## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I Used fiberglass insulation r-19 in the walls and r30 in the ceiling. When I built my garage I had 2×6 studs for the walls so I could use r-19. It gets cold in northeast indiana . I installed a bigmaxx gas garage heater this year so for it has been great. The lowest the temps have so far is 27 degrees.


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

I would suggest you use something besides the oil burning construction heater, they are not vented and can develop odors, carbon monoxide and are a fire hazard. 
The system suggested by Woodmaster1 is worth waiting until you can fund it.


----------



## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

I will be doing a similar project shortly. I have some insulation up already and plan to do the one wall with pallet boards. I have quite a stack of 40" x 3 1/2 " X 1/2 boards. The other three walls I plan to use 1/2 ply.
+1 for insulating the ceiling, in fact I would do that first, and then the wall that gets the most wind.


----------



## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

Drywall is cheap, easily replaceable and it's white colour provides for a brighter shop. It's a shop though, so why bother taping and puttying the drywall? I live in Ontario about 45min from the Michigan/Canada border; I have R19 in the walls and ~R40 in the ceiling.


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

1/2" OSB


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Definitely osb. Easy to roll some white paint .


----------



## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

Vapor barrier over batting then OSB. A gloss white paint and good lighting will reduce eye strain and create a safer work environment.


----------



## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

OSB is ugly IMO, but that is what I put in my shop. It is effective. Those oil filled radient heaters are not very cost effective and I wouldn't think one would keep the temperature up without more insulation than you have stated. It looks like you have 2×4 wall studs and 2×10 rafters. Most heat loss will be in the ceiling, so put more than R13 there.


----------



## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

For the walls I went with R19 insulation, 0.5" drywall and 7/16" T111 plywood. T111 was glues and nailed. For the ceiling, I went with R30 fiberglass. If you can add rigid foam to the garage doors, you should be ok. I heat my shop with a pair of 1500 watt radiant quartz heaters. The T111 was left natural.


----------



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks so much, awesome responses!

I'm thinking OSB then, and a better R value in the roof up in the attic. Not sure I'm going to insulate the ceiling, just the roof.

As for the heater, not sure what to do. I'd like to run something light and cheap constantly in the winter. Just to keep it not freezing for my tools.

Then something bigger while I'm out there. I have 220 out there as well. Maybe electric then...


----------



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

I could do a large propane tank though, or even just keep filling a grill tank…

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_heaters-stoves-fireplaces+propane-heaters+propane-garage-heaters

but these all seem expensive.


----------



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

hello….

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/4724553870.html


----------



## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

those heaters are not great for a sealed garage, both that they put out carbon monoxide and a ton of water vapour into a sealed space. They work much better (and safer) in construction sites where there is airflow. Look for a vented propane heater instead…


----------



## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

Spend on the insulation. Use 1/2" OSB and put blocking where you think you will want to hang heavy stuff or attach cabinets, shelves etc. Minimum R19 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling where you will have a great deal of heat loss if you don't insulate. Also stop cold air from infiltrating into the shop. Use a vapor barrier and caulk all penetrations . Don't forget your doors. I replaced my cheap ass contractor grade metal OH doors with insulated doors, and it made all of the difference in the world,


----------



## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

Re heating your shop
I'm planning on putting one of these into my garage when I finally get around to insulating it. My neighbour has one and it runs beautifully. Plus if you aren't far from the Canadian border you could come over and take advantage of our very low dollar right now.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Unit/50000-BTU-Natural-Gas-Shop-Heater-with-Propane-Conversion-Kit/8547077.p


----------



## jshroyer (Nov 10, 2013)

When my father and I insulated and added heat to the garage we did it in sections at first. But we ended up getting a natural gas heater for the garage. its really nice to have. Its not always on either. And when we turn it on we turn it to a balmy 50F. Just warm enough so your tools dont freeze to your hands. 
On the other side though we also added an AC unit that we got for free. it was for an RV (about the right size) to the garage as well. Its more likely that the AC is on in the garage than in the house in the summer.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

When you insulate don't forget to insulate the garage door too.Ridgid insulation works best in garage doors. As a 25 + year contractor, I agree with going with good insulation in your walls R21 you will save in the long run.
OSB can off fume to some degree if your sensitive to smells you might go the dry wall approach even though OSB is more durable. Don't forget to run any new electrical wiring you need before you insulate and panel your walls.


----------



## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

if you used faced insulation batts do you have to do any paneling over it? Is the paneling there just for protection?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Notw
The faced part of insulation is a form of vapor barrier. Many folks just leave it exposed, but a solid surface allows you more room to attack things like shelves.


----------



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

> Re heating your shop
> I m planning on putting one of these into my garage when I finally get around to insulating it. My neighbour has one and it runs beautifully. Plus if you aren t far from the Canadian border you could come over and take advantage of our very low dollar right now.
> http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Unit/50000-BTU-Natural-Gas-Shop-Heater-with-Propane-Conversion-Kit/8547077.p
> 
> - JADobson


wow, probably out of my price range



> those heaters are not great for a sealed garage, both that they put out carbon monoxide and a ton of water vapour into a sealed space. They work much better (and safer) in construction sites where there is airflow. Look for a vented propane heater instead…
> 
> - Manitario


Thanks, noted



> When you insulate don t forget to insulate the garage door too.Ridgid insulation works best in garage doors. As a 25 + year contractor, I agree with going with good insulation in your walls R21 you will save in the long run.
> OSB can off fume to some degree if your sensitive to smells you might go the dry wall approach even though OSB is more durable. Don t forget to run any new electrical wiring you need before you insulate and panel your walls.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. My garage doors are very old, glass windows, wood construction. Not sure how easily I can tack the foam insulation to them. Might just try to adjust the doors to the door sill so there aren'y any huge cracks.

It's been snowing for a week here now, and we have about 5 inches already. Early snow this year! I just have a tiny little heater fan going near my wood glue and batteries and call me crazy but without any insulation this little heater is chugging along awesome! It's easily 10 degrees warmer in there. I'm thinking of picking up this heater from CL

https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/hsh/4760858340.html










it's only $15 and I think it will definitely help in the long term while I'm not working. My dad has one in his insulated and drywalled garage and it's nice in there.

Anyways, the search and planning continues!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jim
you ought to be able to instal rigid insulation to your door with construction adhesive without nails.


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Propane,or kerosene etc produce a tremendous quantity of condensation.I used a small calor or propane gas heater in my machine shop after about an hour everything was soaking wet dripping what a clean up and wd 40 job I had to do.I stopped it right away.Alistair


----------



## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)




----------



## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)




----------



## DonB (Jan 11, 2011)

Jim: Short of moving south, which is also expensive, I'd accept the budget may rule the day on your choices. All the comments have merit and I agree wholeheartedly on the increased insulation up top. I may be in NW Florida but its 28 today and 20 tomorrow. Maybe 75 on Thanksgiving.


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

There is simple formula for computing how large of a heater you need to heat any given space. First calculate how many cubic feet your shop is. Then figure what your average winter temperatures are in your area and decide how many degrees above that you want your shop to be. So if typical winter temps are 20° and you want your shop to be 60° that is a difference of 40°. To calculate the BTU's required to achieve desired temperature. Calculate ((Total Cubic Feet x .133) x Desired Temperature Increase) = BTU's Required.

My shop is 7200 cubic feet so for me it's 7200 x .133×40 = 38,304 BTUs. So I would need a heater rated 40,000 BTU's to heat my shop to 60° on a 20° day. That is a handy thing to know when you are shopping for heaters. You don't want to buy one that is too small to do the job or larger and more expensive than you need.


----------



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

> Jim
> you ought to be able to instal rigid insulation to your door with construction adhesive without nails.
> 
> - a1Jim


Sounds good, I'll do some research!



> - rantingrich


awesome!



> Jim: Short of moving south, which is also expensive, I d accept the budget may rule the day on your choices. All the comments have merit and I agree wholeheartedly on the increased insulation up top. I may be in NW Florida but its 28 today and 20 tomorrow. Maybe 75 on Thanksgiving.
> 
> - DonB


we just got 12" of snow last night….


> There is simple formula for computing how large of a heater you need to heat any given space. First calculate how many cubic feet your shop is. Then figure what your average winter temperatures are in your area and decide how many degrees above that you want your shop to be. So if typical winter temps are 20° and you want your shop to be 60° that is a difference of 40°. To calculate the BTU s required to achieve desired temperature. Calculate ((Total Cubic Feet x .133) x Desired Temperature Increase) = BTU s Required.
> 
> My shop is 7200 cubic feet so for me it s 7200 x .133×40 = 38,304 BTUs. So I would need a heater rated 40,000 BTU s to heat my shop to 60° on a 20° day. That is a handy thing to know when you are shopping for heaters. You don t want to buy one that is too small to do the job or larger and more expensive than you need.
> 
> - bondogaposis


great math sir, thanks I'll get the slide rule, er, abacus out. I mean, calculator.

Thanks!


----------



## OhioMike (Jun 24, 2012)

Jim,
In the pic I see the back side of the exterior siding. Am I right? Can you feel any air leakage?

In my experience, if there are air leaks within the wall the R-value of fiberglass insulation will be seriously compromised.

Spray foam would air seal and insulate at the same time but it's expensive. An economical alternative might be to install 1/2" rigid foam panels between the studs and caulk around their edges to completely air seal each stud bay. Then follow that with fiberglass and OSB.

My .02

Mike


----------



## MichiganJim (Nov 6, 2013)

> Jim,
> In the pic I see the back side of the exterior siding. Am I right? Can you feel any air leakage?
> 
> In my experience, if there are air leaks within the wall the R-value of fiberglass insulation will be seriously compromised.
> ...


That is exterior wood, but the building is stucco.
Some light leaks but not drafty or anything.
thanks!


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I've been using the oil filled radiators for several years in well insulated shops with great results. No flame, condensation, fumes, etc.
I would buy them again.
Present temp outside is 27 degrees (f), and inside is 66 degrees with the radiator set at 3 on the scale. Can't complain.
Bill


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jim
If you feel air infiltration could be a problem you can insulate your walls with insulation without facing and put a 4-6mil plastic vapour barrier on the inside of the walls.


----------



## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

I'm looking to do the same thing in my garage. It's a 3 car garage, that has to hold 2 cars during the winter (that was the deal with my wife). It is detached from the house and currently has no insulation. 2×4 studs and 2×6 joists. The joists are 4 feet on center, so I was going to add new 2×6's in between because they don't make fiberglass insulation 4 feet wide.

So I think I have a handle on insulation. I was going to use 1/2" (or 7/16" or whatever) OSB for the ceiling and 1/2" ply for the walls. I like the look of light wood for the walls. I'll paint the OSB ceiling white.

I was thinking of making some kind of attic to store some of the infrequently used garage items, like old coolers and college books and small landscaping stuff. How would I create an access panel and keep the R value from plummeting?

Also, it's been below freezing here in Chicago for the past 2 weeks. Once I get my garage insulated, what is the best way to heat it?

Space is too limited for a wood burning stove. My grandfather had one in his shop and it was awesome, but I just don't have the space. The natural gas hookup is on the far side of the house, separated from the garage by a couple fences and concrete sidewalks/driveways. I do have a 240V outlet for my table saw, so it's either that or propane and I've heard bad stories about the condensation from propane heaters.

The garage is 27×20 (540sq ft) with an 8ft ceiling. Going by Bondo's formula, I would need about 35,000 BTUs.


----------



## Finn (May 26, 2010)

After insulating my garage/workshop wall I screwed 1/8" Masonite, white on one side, to the studs. The white reflects light very well for better lighting in the shop and the finish is slick to the sawdust does not stick to it.


----------



## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

if you put in drywall,get one with a fire rating,may save you from a bad fire.some states even required the garage to have fire rated drywall.and keep a fire ext. in there.
I have a steam looking oil filled heater,no open flame, I got at walmart and it keeps my shop at about 42f in the winter.two should make it toasty.


----------



## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

if you put in drywall,get one with a fire rating,may save you from a bad fire.some states even required the garage to have fire rated drywall.and keep a fire ext. in there.
I have a steam looking oil filled heater,no open flame, I got at walmart and it keeps my shop at about 42f in the winter.two should make it toasty.
like rantingrich shows.


----------

