# Routing Mitered frames



## Steamboater (Mar 19, 2016)

I have little experience with Mitered joints. Could somone please advise me, should I cut the 45 angles first, then glue them, and then rout/ finish the outside edges, or rout the outside edges first? Thanks for your help.
Steamboater


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

It would help to know what you're making. There is often more than one "right" way.

Generally, I would glue, then clean up, then finish.

What sort of routing operation are you talking about?


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Run your inside & outside routing when the stock is still full length. When mitered it will fold around perfectly.

M


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## MNgary (Oct 13, 2011)

Six of one and a half-dozen of the other.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

Depending on the profile, you may find that it's much harder to clamp if you route first.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Easier to rout straight sticks of wood than a box shape. If you get a burned spot or chatter after you've made the frame you'll kick yourself.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

mill, route, sand, miter, quick finish coat, glue, finish

"Size" (apply a coat of glue to the end grain to make a better bond) the end grain if you have the time.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

I rout the inside edge first (on full lengths), 
miter, 
assemble, 
any touch up sanding on the corners, 
then rout the outside edge last.


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## Steamboater (Mar 19, 2016)

Wow! what a responsive bunch of people, As a new comer to Lumberjocks, I am truly impressed. Thanks for all the advice. This project is a music box Mounted on a mitered base frame 7×20 x 7/8. The frames are 2 1/2" wide. The material is rosewood. (Pau Ferro). The lid is also a frame slightly smaller but 1 1/2" wide, capped with a solid top panel 4×18 x 7/8. All outside edges are to be routed with a Freud 99-450 2 1/2" Diameter Table edge router bit. This bit will remove a good portion of the Edge over a 1" wide profile. I can't say that I have ever routed anything this aggressive before, and the cost of the material leaves very little room for error. Appreciate any advice available. Thanks


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

Safer, IMHO, to rout that table edge profile before glue-up. If you put the frame together first, you run the risk of "blow-out" at the corners.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Safer, IMHO, to rout that table edge profile before glue-up. If you put the frame together first, you run the risk of "blow-out" at the corners.
> 
> - jerryminer


I'm sure wood species makes a Big difference. 
Router table with a back up board pretty much eliminates blowout. 
I've done it freehand with no backer board on Alder with 0 blowout. 
Sharp tools also help.


















IDK, maybe experience helps. Knowing how fast to go, and how big of cuts to take.


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## Steamboater (Mar 19, 2016)

Thanks for all the advice. All of your input has me thinking in several different directions, which is good, I think. I have decided to make two duplicate frame/sets out of Mahogany and test both methods first. This should reveal any problems I might have with my router skills and assembly procedure. I have also had to construct a new miter sled for my table saw and this should be a good test run. Will save the rosewood for last. Thanks again for all the support.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

I was a picture framer for many years and we mitered nothing but finished moldings with the rabbet already cut.

When I make frames from wood stock I do the same. I cut the rabbet with either a dado head or a rabbet bit in my router mounted in a table.


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## drcodfish (Oct 17, 2015)

" I have decided to make two duplicate frame/sets out of Mahogany and test both methods first. This should reveal any problems I might have with my router skills and assembly procedure. ... Will save the rosewood for last "

There you go! The best suggestion on the topic yet, and it came from you. As a fellow newbie, I find that a test joint or procedure is always best when undertaking something new or unfamiliar. Bette to 'waste' pine or hemlock, than rosewood.


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