# 6 x 48 belt sander refurb



## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

This is a Craftsman belt sander I picked up for $50 a while ago….some spare time over the holidays let me make some progress on it. I patiently waited for one of these larger units to pop up around here. It came with a 1/3 hp motor on it.

I had a 1hp motor on the shelf, so I decided to upgrade the power on this sander. I had to make a minor adjustment in the pulley ratios to accommodate the 3450rpm speed of the new motor (the old one was 1725).

Here's some early pictures:

















I started with the normal tear-down….down to the pins and bearings. This unit was in pretty good shape; most of the rust was surface only:

































Cleanup was mostly with the wire wheel and some fresh paint:

































The old stand wouldn't do….I got the standard HF stand and built it up to incorporate the new motor:

























I like to add some mass to tool stands. I built a box onto the bottom shelf to hold about 60lbs of concrete…..it smooths out the machine and provides a solid base with the locking casters, easy to move, but stable when I park it. I'll add the cover to the box after I pour the concrete tomorrow:









Added a cover for the motor pulley:









These old Craftsman machines have a bad rep for the tracking adjustment setup….can't argue with that gripe. Two keys to getting an old sander like this to track nicely 1) good bearings in the idler pulley, and 2) proper crown on the idler pulley. My bearings were fine….But I read a lot of the tips offered up about belt tracking. I found that the easiest fix is to put two bands of masking tape around that pulley:








Some have had success with just one band in the middle, but I believe the two bands cause the crowning effect to better do it's job on the outer ends of the wider belt. I wrapped each one four times. Once I did this, I was able to put a belt on and off, and have it tracking properly very quickly. I can turn the sander on and let it run without having to babysit the tracking.

The new motor really pulls. Those marks on the belts are from me leaning into them trying to stall it out.

More to come.


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## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

I bought one of these for $60.00 a few years ago. I use it a lot. The original motor does not have the power i would like. The switch quit working and a new one is really expensive. I'm sure I have gotten my monies worth from it, but it has a home for now. I don't know much about pulleys. How much bigger is your new one for a 1 hp motor? I have a few 1/2 horse motors. I could try one of those. I also have a switch from an old Delta shaper. Maybe I need to work on the sander.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Looks like a great rehab,nice work.


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

robert…...I use this calculator to determine pulley sizes: http://vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx This is a bandsaw calculator, but the math should be the same. By playing with the numbers, you can determine the pulley sizes you need. My motor is 3450 rpm, and the "band wheel" here is the main belt pulley….mine is 3". I've got a little wiggle room on the wheel pulley, but it's inside a housing that limits its size to about 2.5 to 3 inches. With a 2.5" pulley on the motor shaft, I'm seeing a belt speed of 2700….maybe a little fast. Changing the driven pulley from 2.5 to 3 inches will get my speed closer to 2200, and getting my hands on a 2.25 pulley for the motor shaft would get me to about 2400…which I think is ideal.

Any opinions on which speed is better? 2700, 2400, or 2200?

Made some more progress today. One of the problems with this old sander was the lower front housing on the 9" disc. It was originally designed to be held in place with five screws that you had to loosen to change sanding discs:









The screw holes in the plastic shroud were hogged out and useless, so I drilled them through and set it up instead with machine screws and winguts:









Poured some concrete today, too…..went ahead and poured some for the lathe while I was mixing it up:

















It's nearly time to pull out my trusty old can of black paint.


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## Bwa (Aug 17, 2010)

Fantastic photos, thanks for sharing. I've been weighting tool stands down with boxes of tile for the moment but was thinking about building boxes and pouring concrete or putting concrete bricks in them. Glad to see I'm not crazy!


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## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

Thanks for the info on calculating pulley size. I need to spend some time on this machine. It is a workhorse for me. I took the 9" sanding part off. It was in my way for flatting cutting boards. That was before I got a drum sander. I have had no problems with tracking. I had to fix one of the cam bolts but as long as I take time, I can get it to track very well.


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## yammi450 (Feb 11, 2011)

Your's is the same sander I picked up at a yard sale for $25. The table is alittle different though. All I had to do was do a little cleaning, change the belt, and some adjustment, and it runs like a top. By far my best tool deal.


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

All done…...on to the next project.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Nice refurb job!


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

Resurrecting an older thread, but does anyone know what size bearings are used in the idler roller on these old Craftsman sanders.?

Just two bearings from Sears-including shipping and tax-will run almost $50 which is more than the sander is worth. I was given a sander in pieces and have the idler roller, but the bearings and shafts are missing. I already have the 7/16-rod to turn a new ilder shaft, and 5/8-inch rod for the adjusters. The Sears parts list shows a bearing with a snap ring-Part Number 38536, and I'm hoping to find a commercially available equivalent bearing. I've measured the idler bore as 1 3/16 inches, but haven't been able to locate a bearing with that outer diameter with a 7/16-inch bore.

In a pinch I can turn a new bearing carrier insert to accommodate off-the-shelf bearings, but I'd like to see if I can find a commercial equivalent to the original bearings before tackling that.

Any suggestions?


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

I took a look at mine and the side of the bearing says 6200RS. I've had good luck (and prices) getting bearings from Accurate Bearing http://www.accuratebearing.com/index.php in the past.

When I plug 6200 into the web I get some results like this, for $7.50: http://www.scootercatalog.com/wheel-bearing-6004rs-2.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=20503017361&utm_content=pla&gclid=CJ2fu9O227QCFQu0nQod828AmA

Of course there's various grades of bearings out there, but I've put many a $10 bearing on my old machines and they run with no problems. There's definitely no need to pay $50 for them.


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

James,

Thanks for the unbelievably quick response. I have had this sander sitting in my shop in parts for years, but after seeing your project here, I was inspired to finish it. (Last weekend I bought my Harbor Freight stand, so I guess I'm committed!)

I am surprised to see that Emerson used metric bearings, but I have found no SAE bearing that matches. I did the SAE to metric conversion, and the specs for the 6200 2RS is within a millimeter in all dimensions of my measurements of the idler roller.

If you get a chance and can see them, would you mind passing along the numbers on the bearings on the main drive roller and the sanding disk shaft?

BTW, this was my first post on LumberJocks and I look forward to many more!

Thanks again for an inspiring thread. Like you, I enjoy resurrecting tired equipment-much of which outperforms most new things in today's market.

Ken


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I have an earlier model with brass bushings in the rollers and bearings only in the pulley shaft. I also picked up a newer gen like yours for $2.50 at auction without a motor and will probably refurbish that and just keep a different grit on it. People pass by this old stuff and think a new Harbor Freight unit is better. That's ok, more machinery for us who know better.


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

James or anyone else still here,

I picked up the 6200-2RS bearings today and they fit the roller bore perfectly. Do you remember if the idler roller bearings are a press fit onto the shaft? I am having to fabricate the shaft since I don't have one, and I have a length of 7/16-inch cold rolled stock and can take a few thousandths off on the metal lathe, but I wanted to see if I need a press fit, or a slip fit.

TIA.

Ken


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

That's great news on those bearings! I don't know if you have it or not, but here's a link to the manual and parts diagram for a similar Craftsman sander. I used it as a reference for my refurb. From the Vintage Machinery site: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=1222

As to your question about the idler bearing, the diagram indicates (and I saw it on mine) that the bearings are retained on both sides by 5/8" retaining rings. Additionally, the diagram indicates different part numbers for the bearings on either side of the driven pulley; so it appears that there are three sizes of bearings used - two of the same on the idler, and two different ones on the driven…...so it appears on paper, I'll get out there and try to spy part numbers on the other two bearings tomorrow.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

You asked about speed, how about a variable speed?

*I find that some materials, plastic for example, like to melt at higher speeds.*


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

Thanks for the lead on the manual-I'm sure it will be of assistance to others who read this thread. I had already found it and was using it to source parts. I really appreciate the help on the bearing numbers.

My sander is missing one of the scroll tracking adjusters. I'm weighing fabbing a new adjuster like the original, or making a cam or adjuster of my own design. I think the Craftsman design leaves something to be desired. It would be easy to turn an eccentric to use as an adjuster. As this progresses, I hope to post some photos.

Thanks again.


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

Alrighty, after posting this I will be reassembling my sander…......it took a bit of doing to get the model number off that bearing buried behind the disc, shaft pulley, etc….....all done in brotherly love, my friends.

The driven pulley has two bearings, the one on the non-belt-driven-side is this, with a part number of 6202 5/8 RS:

What it looks like in place:










....and an example of a new one:

http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/1002115--6202-2rs-10-or-6202-zz-10-ball-bearings-5-8x35x11.html

The bearing on the belt-driven-side of the driven pulley, with a part number of something that looks like 6202 / 15 is a bit different. It appears to have a retaining ring around it, but what it seems to really do is cause the bearing to serve not only the driven pulley and shaft, but also to support and allow the table support bracket to move up and down. The back side of the table support bracket has a recess that accepts the part of the bearing protruding in these photos:




























Per the micrometer, that bearing measures OD 35mm, ID 15.87mm. The closest I could find to that bearing (maybe not it), I'd call Accurate Bearing for their interchange:

http://habid.en.alibaba.com/product/691277721-213896599/Professsional_15mm_ID_35mm_OD_11mm_width_6202_flange_bearing.html

Time to reassemble =)


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

James,

Unbelieveable! I never expected you to disassemble the entire machine, but this documentation will prove extremely valuable to me others who may embark on rebuilding these sanders. The bearings are all off the shelf, and the two 6200-2RS bearings I purchased for the idler roller set me back about $4.00 total-a lot different than the near $50.00 Sears wanted.

I hope some day I can return the favor.

Ken


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

Glad to do it…...maybe reward us with some progress pictures along the way. You indicated that you are going to be machining and fabricating a shaft. I'd like to see some of that.


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I just found this old thread and wanted to say it helps me a lot. I have the exact same sander and have been tuning it up. The belt tracking has been really touchy, so I'll try out the double masking tape trick. I have a question… how do you remove the drive pulley? From the assembly diagram, it looks like the shaft has retaining rings on both sides of each bearing (4 retaining rings total), and the inner ones are impossible to reach.

My sander came without the disk attachment. I'm thinking of making my own out of a flange w/ set screw, bolted to a MDF or plywood disk. If not, I can get the part for about $50 from sears.


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## redSLED (Mar 21, 2013)

Just read over this great thread. Thanks to jtbinvalrico for posting all those photos, and to others for the valuable info.

I too have one of those 80 lb. monsters in the corner of the garage - awaiting refurbishment for 10+ years now I think. It has now moved up on my to-do list from 216 to 199.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Very well done sir. Never would have thought about the concrete idea, and it sure beats a bag of sand that will get all over everything.
Bill


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

I'm resurrecting this old thread because I have finally tackled my Craftsman sander restoration. I have already learned a lot about this type of sander including modern specs for the drive and idler bearings:

1. The bearing on the disc sander side of the drive pulley shaft is a 6202-2RS-NR-10. Despite this sander being old American iron, this bearing is a metric-SAE hybrid. The "-10" at the end of its name designates its inner diameter as 5/8-inch, while its width is 15mm, and its outer diameter is 35mm. The bearing is also sometimes called a 6202-2RS-NR-5/8. (I should note that a plain 6202-2RSNR has an 11mm inner diameter, so you must specify the -10 or 5/8 designation to get the correct bearing.) Also, the "NR" in the bearing name means that it has an external snap ring. This ring is captured when the sander is assembled and prevents lateral movement of the bearing.

2. The bearing on the opposite end of the drive pulley shaft is a plain 6202-2RS-10 which does not have an external snap ring.

3. The bearings on either end of the idler pulley shaft are both 6200-2RS metric bearings with 10×30x9mm dimensions.

Note: When ordering the bearings accept only sealed units. Bearings with a "ZZ" designator are shielded but not sealed and would not be appropriate on a sander.

It is a mystery to me why, considering the era when these sanders were built, that they did not use only SAE bearings. Perhaps Sears was already out-sourcing some parts, or perhaps they wanted to force customers to buy only from them.

My sander was rescued from a scrap pile and was missing some parts that I will have to fabricate, including the 10mm idler pulley shaft, and both 5/8-inch control shafts that are attached to the idler shaft with 3/16×5/8 roll pins. If someone could measure the length of these shafts and post their results here, it would save me some time and guessing when I turn these on my lathe.

Attached are photos of the dimensions I need:

Idler shaft:










Control shaft:










Any help will be appreciated.

Ken


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## steve_in_ohio (Dec 28, 2013)

looks a whole lot better, great job


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## Cambriahouse (Apr 1, 2014)

Hello, everyone:

I have been reading this forum for months, I just joined now because I have an answer to a question.

KenSchmid, I measured the length of the 5/8 inch control shaft on my Craftsman 6×48 using calipers and the length was 4.09" on one side and 4.06" on the other side.

Steve


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## KenShmid (Jan 9, 2013)

Cambriahouse wrote:

You just saved me some guessing. Thank's so much!

Let me ask you Steve, do you have any problems adjusting the belt tracking? Any hints you want to offer?

And 4.09" and 4.06"-are you a machinist too??

Thanks again for the help.

Ken


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## Cambriahouse (Apr 1, 2014)

Ken:

I don't really have problems adjusting the belt tracking, but it is more complex than it should be. I use two wrenches, one on each side and adjust both tracking nuts while the sander is running. The sanding belt moves side to side as you adjust the tracking (both sides) to center it and at the same time getting enough tension on the belt to keep it from sliding on the drum. Sometimes it needs re-adjustment after the belt has been running for a few minutes.

I have owned my Craftsman 6×48 belt/disc sander since I bought it new over 30 years ago.

I'm not a machinist by trade, but years ago I did learn how to use the mill and lathe in the small metal shop at work, so I am now the person who makes the parts when needed at work . This also gives me access to the equipment after hours if I need to make something for home. It's not too much different from woodworking except the tolerances are usually 5 thousandths of an inch instead of 1/32" in wood.

Steve


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## Archangel2003 (Jun 1, 2015)

> My sander was rescued from a scrap pile and was missing some parts that I will have to fabricate, including the 10mm idler pulley shaft, and both 5/8-inch control shafts that are attached to the idler shaft with 3/16×5/8 roll pins. If someone could measure the length of these shafts and post their results here, it would save me some time and guessing when I turn these on my lathe.
> 
> Ken
> 
> - KenShmid


Well Ken, my idler pulley shaft measures .500 or 12.68mm and the bearings match.

The bearings with the matching idler pulley bearing OD of 1.180 (30mm) all seem to have 10mm as an ID (0.393701 inches) except the Craftsman bearing listed.

the idler bearing as I measured it is 
OD: 30mm
ID: .500 or 1/2" 
Thickness 9mm
And they both have a snap ring ring groove.

I found the larger drive pulley bearing at ACE as well as on line because there are a lot of drill presses and other equipment that use it.

http://www.tractor-parts-warehouse.com/category-s/62.htm

I ordered 4 of them and they were under $20 shipped.
the drive pulley bearing is 
OD: 35mm
ID: .625 or 5/8
Thickness 11mm
And it has a snap ring ring groove on one side only.
The other drive pulley bearing is the same size without a snap ring groove.

Oh, and adjusting the tracking was impossible and I killed 1 belt and buggered the edge s of 2 more in the attempt.
I assumed it was the bearings as everything else was fine.


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## MackenzieS (Aug 20, 2015)

I know I'm a few years late on this post but I just purchased this same sander at a surplus auction!
I am having trouble locating the ONE part I need, the Right hand cam assembly
and wondering if you might know how I can get a hold of one. The part # for just the cam is 68009 and all I get from sears is "this item is no longer available". I would appreciate any help or info to point me in the right direction or even compatible cam assemblies that I could use.
Also, beautiful refurb job! What color paint was used?? 
Thanks in advance!


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

There is hope. I found a set that sold in May on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-6-X-48-BELT-DISC-SANDER-BELT-ADJUSTOR-CAMS-/171801734262?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item28002e6c76&nma=true&si=2zqqZthQn8%252Fbw0jC%252Bzgd6rc9FJM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

You have three options:

1) Put up watch alert on ebay…..I would search for 68009 and 68008…....a left side part could be hacked into a right side part with a bit of welding.
2) Look for another machine on Clist…...being sold for $20-$30 inoperative as parts (and some extra spare parts to boot).
3) Make one. A piece of steel, some bar. You've got the left one for reference…..dimensions are the same, just backward. It's not a spinning part, so it doesn't have to be perfect. It simply sets a space and is locked in by a retaining nut.

- A square of steel. Trace your left one reversed. cut or grind to the lines. File for detail. Drill a hole to accept the round bar.
- Some steel bar in the correct diameter. Cut to length. Bench grinder to make the flats on the end of the bar. File and sand smooth.
- Drill and tap the end to match the left one.

I can get you dimensions if you need them. But your left one is the perfect reference.


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## EugenePik (Jun 24, 2017)

I registered on the site to thank all participants of this thread. A lot of the needed info and even the PDF manual of the machine! Thanks!

I also have a question about the screw #22 in the manual (part list, page 24) - it secures the Drive Pulley on its shaft. My drive pulley is moved to one side and I wanted to adjust its position. Tried to unscrew the #22, but it seems the hex opening of the screw is rounded… Looking for a solution to remove it.


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## Dieselshu (Sep 16, 2017)

I just picked up a 113.225930 with stand, looking for cam left hand, cam nut, also idler pulley. I found a few similar units for sale on craigslist but they want way to much for them. Anyone have a good machine shop to fabricate these parts? If anyone has one they would like to part out, let me know.

Thanks
Dave


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

You did a nice job on refurbishing this sander. Congratulations.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## DavidMMc (Jul 20, 2017)

> I just picked up a 113.225930 with stand, looking for cam left hand, cam nut, also idler pulley. I found a few similar units for sale on craigslist but they want way to much for them. Anyone have a good machine shop to fabricate these parts? If anyone has one they would like to part out, let me know.
> 
> Thanks
> Dave
> ...


Take a look at Grizzly's website. I picked up the same Craftsman sander setup at an auction for $5.00 a few months ago. It was missing the following parts which I couldn't find craftsman anywhere. Grizzly parts fit exact. Except for the control arm, which Grizzly were long so I just cut them to length based on some of the comments in this thread. Best thing about it was Grizzly parts were half the price of "Craftsman" parts!

Grizzly Sander Model G1014Z

P1014064B - IDLER ROLLER V3.08.97 $18.75
P1014059B - IDLER SHAFT V3.08.97 $6.50 
P6201-2RS - BALL BEARING 6201-2RS $9.50 
P1014Z062B - ROLLER ADJUST BAR $5.25 
PR03M - EXT RETAINING RING 12MM $1.00 
P1014Z009 - BACK STOP $11.00

Also search eBay, Ive seen parts for this sander on there in the past.

Hope the helps.


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## Dieselshu (Sep 16, 2017)

David, Thank you for the info. Do you have any pictures, I'm curious as the the idler pulley adjustment an how you did that?


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## 08k8 (Sep 18, 2017)

Nice Job!


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## DavidMMc (Jul 20, 2017)

> David, Thank you for the info. Do you have any pictures, I m curious as the the idler pulley adjustment an how you did that?
> 
> - Dieselshu


 Sorry no pics, but adjusting the idler pulley is fairly simple. I use two 1/2 wrenches, one on each side, adjust both tracking nuts while the sander is running. The sanding belt will move side to side as you adjust the tracking (both sides) to center it and at the same time getting enough tension on the belt to keep it from sliding on the drum. Occasionally It will it need re-adjustment after being used.


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## Dieselshu (Sep 16, 2017)

DavidMMC, For the grizzly idler pulley are the bearings located in the center of the pulley like the craftsman or on the ends?

Thanks
Dave


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## MacNut11 (Oct 28, 2012)

I bought a new one just like yours about 30 years ago. It's served me well. My top idler is worn completely smooth. My biggest beef with it has always been that it needs wrenches to make tracking adjustments and to lock it down once you got it right. It needs knobs, just never got around to fitting mine with knobs. Also I removed the disc sanding attachment and guard completely. I found that it in the way of using the belt too much. I had planned on buying a Grizzly way back then but every time I tried it was out of stock.

You done a great job bringing it back btw.


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## DavidMMc (Jul 20, 2017)

> DavidMMC, For the grizzly idler pulley are the bearings located in the center of the pulley like the craftsman or on the ends?
> 
> Thanks
> Dave
> ...


Sorry it's been awhile, to answer your question the bearings are on the ends of the pulley. I got the sander put back together and all is running just fine with the Grizzly parts. I am going to make one other modification and that is putting tape on the pulley as suggested by jtbinvalrico earlier in the post. My belt seems to want to wander and I think the tape will help.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Great rebuild.
I have owned one of these for 30 years (maybe longer). Cast iron construction so about the only thing that can go wrong is the bearings, belt, and motor. It will run forever.
As you have found out when you go to Craftsman parts they are ridiculously over priced. Whether it is the bearings you were looking for or an oil filter for you lawn mower. When they paint Craftsman on it the price usually doubles. You can almost always find better prices elsewhere. 
Maybe that is why Sears/Craftsman went broke. Now they are owned by Stanley Black & Decker so that is the end of what little quality that was left in the good brand name Craftsman products


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## Jidis (Mar 23, 2018)

Thanks from me as well to James and all commenters.

This is an odd machine in that it seems to be all over the used market, but there isn't much of anything in the way of sites or Youtubes with people dissecting one. I bought one used a while back and took it apart after fighting with the usual tracking issues,etc. I wasn't happy with the condition of the pulleys and figured on repairing or upgrading them, but it was too much hassle, so I put it aside. Hopefully, I can get it back together soon, but from what I remember, the disassembly process was sort of a mess with parts which needed to be removed in specific order as they blocked each other and locked things in place. Still might look into those rollers beforehand. They seem to be its Achilles' heel. Mine likely have a worn surface with little crown left, but I think the bearing seats were loose as well.

Take Care

PS- I don't see that you answered the guy about that paint. Was wondering that myself.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

I purchased that sander when I was 21 years old. I'm 63 now and am still using it. Great tool. Got a lot of mileage on it. Great for smoothing wood, or with an aggressive belt for taking down wood. I get my belts from harbor freight. They're actually very good and not expensive at all. Here's a picture of it after 42 years in my shop. The craftsman bandsaw was purchased at the same time. Same tires, bearings etc.


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## jtbinvalrico (Nov 28, 2011)

The paint was no doubt little more than a battleship gray or similar rattlecan from Rustoleum….They make a gold hammertone that looks really nice on my Cman 150 DP.

Hey Craftsman on the lake, I've got the same pair. Both run perfectly.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

> The paint was no doubt little more than a battleship gray or similar rattlecan from Rustoleum….They make a gold hammertone that looks really nice on my Cman 150 DP.
> 
> Hey Craftsman on the lake, I've got the same pair. Both run perfectly.
> 
> - jtbinvalrico


Yup, I think yours are a couple of years newer. You can tell by the different tables on them. But, I agree. They keep tickin'.


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## Jidis (Mar 23, 2018)

Thanks for the paint info! I remember a common one that people mentioned at Old Woodworking Machines or somewhere, but it may have been the one you're talking about. The Lowes I checked tonight didn't have it unless it goes by a new name, but I can probably find something close if nobody else has it here.

Craftsman on the lake- I get the HF paper and belts too. I just brought home a couple for the 4×36 machine. I do remember it losing a lot of bite after the first few uses, but I'm not sure all their sandpaper products are the same. The stuff I had still worked OK, but it was as though it changed grit. I'll see what these do, but as long as the tape joint doesn't fail I'll find a use for them. I've had way too many others do that, and when it happens on these bench sanders it's a bit scary.


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## Dieselshu (Sep 16, 2017)

Here is what I found thru research…


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## Jidis (Mar 23, 2018)

Sounds good Dieselshu. I'll start the quest tomorrow.

Thanks!


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## Jidis (Mar 23, 2018)

Did any of you guys ever take a good look at the bearing seats in that front idler pulley? Mine had developed a bit of a loose fit to the bearings, and I remember others complaining of it online.

Looking at it just now, it appears to be a separate insert of steel or something with shallow recesses in each end for the bearings. Would seem to be an easy fix if it came out somehow. My lathe could replicate the insert, but the full pulley is a bit too big to work on. If it can be tapped out, I can't figure out if it's the same on both sides, or might need to be tapped in one direction. I swear it looks like the steel is thicker on one side than the other.


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## Jidis (Mar 23, 2018)

Got a feeling this is not going to be one of my favorite machines. I'll try to grab a new belt and see if my opinion changes though. Either way, it's been a big hassle.

I chickened out on the lighter gray, and just went with the original Craftsman dark blue-gray. I figured if I was too lazy to paint all the parts or missed something you couldn't tell that way. Here's the label if it ever does anybody any good. The Home Depot guy spent a good while getting it matched to the piece I brought in, and IMHO did a really good job. Do wish it was a little duller, but the next step down is probably flat (which I didn't want).








I ended up making two aluminum caps for the idler pulley, which moves the bearings closer to the ends, and cutting a couple new grooves for the snap rings (those three slots lock over the "spokes" inside the roller).
















Long story short- The pulley works fine and both front and back have all new bearings…








and guess what?? The tracking still sucks!

I reluctantly banded the front roller with tape, which helped some, but it's still really unpredictable. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll just be the belt, but I won't get my hopes up. I can't figure how something so simple in theory can be such a PITA, especially when you've got guys with homemade ones that have no problems. My suspicion is that the rollers don't age well and that we're missing a lot of crown as well as the original texture (which is now only on the outside edge).

Take Care


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## ChrisMc45 (Jul 28, 2010)

Your success at winning Craigslist is the most impressive part. You are blessed to live in a major metropolitan area.


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