# Wave-Making Jig



## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

Hey, fellas!
I'm back with a new idea…and I'd like your opinions!
I don't come on very often, and when I do, it's usually to get your take on things. I like to get the opinions of the pros (because Goodness know I'm not one .
First, a quick intro: Jack Colliflower. I make ZCIs for table saws and miter saws (in the wood working world), and I work on different ideas for tools which (I hope) open up capabilities for wood working. (The last was the Tilting, Sliding Route Table).
First, a question: How do you make "waves" in a piece of wood?


> I searched and searched, and the only decent way I found was by CNC. Now, I am a machinist by trade, so I could make waves via CNC-but what about you? And what if I want to do it "by hand" with a router


 Nearly impossible. No real way to do it before now.
I'm going to explain my project and attach pics of the process.
Nothing too fancy. Actually, I think pics will explain it all. And I've written up a document which is now a PDF which I'll attempt to attach.
I am very excited about this new system! I picture all different exotic woods with a wave to pop out the grain, cabinet doors and sides, book shelves, cutting boards…and on and on. I'm really happy about this one! Only our imaginations are the limit.
The board you will see is oak, and I did the routing with a normal 1/2" straight-flute bit.
As you see the pics, I'll say that the whole process took me very little time. From hooking the board up to the jig to finish sanding, maybe 30 mins? Probably more like 20.
Thanks in advance for your opinions, and please ask any questions!
So…I can't upload the PDF, which means I'll copy/paste the written description.
BTW: I have submitted for patent on this one! 

Here begins the copy/paste details of "The Undulator" 

*The Undulator*

The Undulator-as a whole-is a device which allows a wood worker to make "waves" (or undulations) in a board with a hand-held router.
It is comprised of one router plate, two slide guides, two slide poles, one router unit lock, and one undulating jig.
The router plate attaches to the router, and it accommodates the two slide poles which slide through it.
The slide guides slide on either side of the undulating jig (connected to either end of the two slide poles), keeping the router within the jig and on a straight path.
The slide poles connect the two slide guides and allow the router/router plate to slide along the poles (and within the jig), in order to move the router to make cuts in different locations.
The router unit lock is simply a hand-tightened set screw which enters through a tapped hole in the router plate and "sets" into the slide pole. This helps to keep the router on a straight path while cutting.
The undulating jig is the centerpiece. The jig can vary in length, width, height, radial wave, wave pitch and wave frequency-all according to the need of the wood worker's project at hand.

Here is an example of the name of an Undulator unit and the name classification breakdown:
3R-4.796F-0.5"H-6×24
3R: The undulating wave has a 3.0" radius.
4.796F: The wave frequency (distance between wave crests) is 4.796".
0.5"H: The distance from top of the wave to the bottom of the adjacent wave is 0.5".
6×24: The jig is 6"x24" in size

There will be a pre-set selection of undulating jigs for purchase. However, if a wood worker needs a jig with specific geometry, he/she can make the order using the name classification system.
If a wood worker wanted jigs of various sizes and wave geometry, all he/she would have to buy are the undulating jigs and router plates-the slide guides and slide poles would stay the same on most jigs.
In essence, here is the concept in a nutshell:
-The wood worker chooses the Undulator jig set that he/she thinks will fit his/her needs. (The correct size and geometry shape.)
-The board is attached to the jig by means of screwing through the jig and into the board.
-The jig and board are then secured to either a table top (by means of screwing through the jig and into the table top) or a "sacrificial board" which is then clamped to a surface.
-The router is attached to the router plate.
-The router unit is placed on the undulating jig.
-The bit depth and placement is set and the lock is engaged.
-A pass is made along the length of the jig. 
-The router unit then takes a step over, is re-locked into place, and is ready for another pass.
-Once the board is routed, it is removed from the jig and the two ends are cut off. (The two sections which were screwed into the jig and were not routed.)








http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s509/jcolliflower/IMG2222zps8187b28f.jpg!
































































p://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s509/jcolliflower/IMG2218zpsd15ef477.jpg!


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

I doesn't look like the pics of attaching the board to the jig came through, so here they are….


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## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

I love to see the pic's if you can get them to work? Sounds like an interesting jig.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

Looks cool. I think it would be helpful to show a finished project that incorporated "wavey" boards.


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> I love to see the pic s if you can get them to work? Sounds like an interesting jig.
> 
> - rustynails


Did the pics not show up? You can email me at [email protected] for pics if desired. I took detailed pics of the process.


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> Looks cool. I think it would be helpful to show a finished project that incorporated "wavey" boards.
> 
> - Julian


Agreed. I wish I had time to do a project right now! I thought I'd show the potential and let people imagine the possibilities….


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

sweet..


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> sweet..
> 
> - CharlesNeil


Thanks!


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Interesting idea.

What is the maximum width board that the jig can handle? I think it would be very interesting to be able to do fairly wide pieces twice at ninety degrees. Say, for example a 10" X 10" piece with the "frequency" of the waves such that you get about five valleys. Run the jig both ways and you should get a piece with a grid of humps.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

That is cool!


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> Interesting idea.
> 
> What is the maximum width board that the jig can handle? I think it would be very interesting to be able to do fairly wide pieces twice at ninety degrees. Say, for example a 10" X 10" piece with the "frequency" of the waves such that you get about five valleys. Run the jig both ways and you should get a piece with a grid of humps.
> 
> - Kazooman


Thanks!
The widest jig I've made so far is 6". This jig can route 4.5" (in width) without moving the board. To route a wider area, one must move the board. However, I can also make a wider jig.
My biggest jig so far is 34"x6". At this size, I can route 31"x4.5" without moving the board.
Your idea of running the jig both ways would be great! A grid of humps would be a very unique look.
I knew you all would come up with some great ideas!
These jigs really open things up.
Other ideas have been for cutting boards: Undulate a board, then rip it into strips, lay on its side and glue!


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> That is cool!
> 
> - Mosquito


Thanks!


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

> Interesting idea.
> 
> What is the maximum width board that the jig can handle? I think it would be very interesting to be able to do fairly wide pieces twice at ninety degrees. Say, for example a 10" X 10" piece with the "frequency" of the waves such that you get about five valleys. Run the jig both ways and you should get a piece with a grid of humps.
> 
> ...


I know you will be heading to the shop to try the two way pattern soon. Show us the results!


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

I'll will get to it eventually


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Jack, this is a great idea and I really like the look. I will have to think about potential designs to incorporate this look.


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> Jack, this is a great idea and I really like the look. I will have to think about potential designs to incorporate this look.
> 
> - AandCstyle


Thank you. Yes, I'm a bit surprised no one has come out with a way to make a wave with a router. But…it's great to see some minds are getting to work on its application.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Nice work Jack. Exploiting router possibilities is always at the top of my list. In the late 70s I worked with a prominent LA designer/maker whose style then was Art Nouveau meets Bauhaus. This design was a recurring theme for panel doors and drawer fronts. The hardest part of carving the panels is establishing the low points. In this case we made two jigs to cut … low to high points and low to low points. Then it's just waste removal and connecting the dots. My link is the same jig to do a different job.

"Poor Bugger Me" CNC Archtop

http://lumberjocks.com/Texcaster/blog/79098

Small Trestle Table. not as tricky but still taming a wavy line

http://lumberjocks.com/Texcaster/blog/80610


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

> Nice work Jack. Exploiting router possibilities is always at the top of my list. In the late 70s I worked with a prominent LA designer/maker whose style then was Art Nouveau meets Bauhaus. This design was a reoccurring theme for panel doors and drawer fronts. The hardest part of carving the panels is establishing the low points. In this case we made two jigs to cut … low to high points and low to low points. Then it s just waste removal and connecting the dots. My link is the same jig to do a different job.
> 
> "Poor Bugger Me" CNC Archtop
> 
> ...


Wow. Those are some pretty impressive pieces. And great work on the jig!
You're right-the principles are almost identical! Too bad you didn't have a CNC and could have made life easier for others years ago….
Do you have an opinion on what radius/depth of wave would work best for the most wood workers? I know it depends so much on the project, but I've got to think a "general" wave could work for many project.
Thanks for the post!


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

> Nice work Jack. Exploiting router possibilities is always at the top of my list. In the late 70s I worked with a prominent LA designer/maker whose style then was Art Nouveau meets Bauhaus. This design was a reoccurring theme for panel doors and drawer fronts. The hardest part of carving the panels is establishing the low points. In this case we made two jigs to cut … low to high points and low to low points. Then it s just waste removal and connecting the dots. My link is the same jig to do a different job.
> 
> "Poor Bugger Me" CNC Archtop
> 
> ...


You're right it depends on the job. I like your pattern as a good all round starting point for panels and drawer fronts. It's easy to read AND cleanup wouldn't be too difficult.


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

Good to know. Thanks!


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## jcolliflower (Jul 23, 2012)

A couple of pics of work I did today with the wave-making jig. Wave on each side. 
That Canarywood is amazing!


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## bearkatwood (Aug 19, 2015)

I wonder if you could take this idea and make a jig to scoop out chair seats. Very clever stuff, keep inventing. I love it all.


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