# Festool stuff



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.*

*Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY*
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.









It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.









Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.









Then some ply for the riding piece.









Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.









That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.









So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).









Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.









A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.









Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.









Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.









We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)









Here how it looks on the base.









Another small piece of plywood and two screws.









We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.









Base.









Riding the track, like a horse race horse…









With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880









Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).









To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.









Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…









Cutting on the band saw.









Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.









Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D









Riding block of wood and a flag.









Now we just need to put them together.









Marking the position of the hole.









On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.









Marking up for the hold down bolt.









Saw.









Chisel out.









Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.









Marking up.









Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.









Bolt with washers on the flag stop.









Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).









Cut to length.









We have a flag stop!









Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.









Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.









A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.









A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).









I kind of like the simple one also.









But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.









I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.









Flag up!









Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.









Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.









Flag up!









Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.*
> 
> *Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY*
> usefull on all T-tracks.
> ...


Very clever Mads and I'm loving that drill press.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.*
> 
> *Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY*
> usefull on all T-tracks.
> ...


Super engineering, Mads! Much better than the original.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

mafe said:


> *Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.*
> 
> *Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY*
> usefull on all T-tracks.
> ...


nice work mads i always love the effort you put into showing and explainig how you make things,always above and beyond.thanks buddy.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.*
> 
> *Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY*
> usefull on all T-tracks.
> ...


Brit, Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha, thank you Andy!
I love that portrait you made of me, it's just how I see my self.
What drill press? Ahhh the green one that makes me smile! :-D
Thanks Andy. 
Lew, funny I also like the new one better, it's more woodworking and less machine. Thanks.
Pottz, Those are really kind words thank you, I try my best and as I tell my daughter, when we do that, we will have nothing to regret. Touched thank you.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.*

*Track saw repetitive cuts on the go*
Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Once in a while I need a number of repetitive cuts with my track saw, when I'm out of the house. Of course I can measure and mark again and again, but I wanted an easier way, especially when it more than just a few.

So let's go to the workshop and make things happen. ;-)









This is what we will be making - the two arms attached to the track, that has stops so they can be set for a fixed distance. If you don't get it, just come along and you will, once we are done with the blog.
As you can see it's three parts, a connection piece to the track, a T-track and a stop block.
(I'll make a video if anyone still don't get it - smiles).

Let's get started:









We will start with the connection block to the track.
Here are the track that we need to connect to, it will be done with some high quality plywood.









First cutting a rabbet on the table saw.









Ok, let's make a big one, while we are at it.









Cut them into smaller.









I also made a cut like this, to narrow the width of the hook.
(You will see - and need to adjust this to your track system, if not Festool).









A rabbet the other way, this time the width of a T-track, I just used some old curtain hanger T-track I had in the shop.
I use a stop, to stop before the end of the track.









Clean up the rabbets, this can be done with a chisel also.









Now for the stop blocks while we are in the rabbet mode.
Just some plywood where a rabbet is cut by repetitive cuts, so they will fit the width of the T-track (curtain track).
The blue tape holds the two pieces together, since I had cut them first (not so clever me).









We got rabbets.









Let's put this thing together!
Gluing the T-track to the connection piece, make sure they are flush with the other rabbet.
Some ultra fast epoxy, so I can get on with the project.









Making some T-track bolts out of standard flat head bolts.
(I had them in the shop).









Out of focus, drilling holes for the bolts.









As easy as that.
Bolts, washers, wing nuts and we got stops.









Works just fine.









I don't trust in the epoxy alone, so I'll screw it in place also.
Holes and counter sink.









Bolts.









Self locking nuts.
Now it should stay.









It works, we are right on track.
Again a hole, a home made T-track bolt, washer and wing nut.









So here we are, two arms for repetitive cuts.
For the clever reader, yes there are a limit to the width, as the stops only go to the edge of the track - so what do we do if we need something smaller? - we just make a spacer that we put between the stops and the track, so i's not a problem.









I made mine plenty long, so I can cut just over half a plywood sheet.









Here they are.
As you can see, I put little extension blocks on the stops, this was so they are extruding low enough to catch the sheet you cut.









Attachment piece.









Named and marked.
Also put a stop with a string, so I can hang them up, when they are not in use.









Here hanging on the workshop wall, waiting for a day to be used.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or just keep some one on track…

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

mafe said:


> *Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.*
> 
> *Track saw repetitive cuts on the go*
> Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.
> ...


Once again another good innovation. One note to cleanup rabbits I find the router plane works the best, because you can guarantee a precise depth and never make a mistake. Also I think adding a measuring tape to the back of the t-track, might expedite setting the jig to the desired width. You can buy adhesive backed tape cheaply. Incidentally I made own track for the circular saw just to break down plywood sheets. So no need to buy a track saw if you already have a circular saw. I was easy to do.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.*
> 
> *Track saw repetitive cuts on the go*
> Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.
> ...


Clever idea, Mads!

Looks like you are soon going to need bigger wall to store all of your fantastic creations!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.*
> 
> *Track saw repetitive cuts on the go*
> Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.
> ...


The KISS principle sure applies here Mads. Well thought out and very useful.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._*

*Track saw track hold downs*
using the scraps…

This is just a little extra, made from the left overs from the repetitive cut's jig.
When I made the attachments in the last blog, I made the first of them a wee short, so I trashed them.
Then I remembered I saw somewhere this alternative way of holding, the track to the table and made me a pair.
(I think it was on the Festool owners group page, so there's credit for someone there).









This is how it works, but it will be especially useful on the go, where you can clamp the track to anything, using standard clamps.









The making…
The rest can be seen in last blog, so I will not be a parrot here.









Put a spacer under, so the hold is just a wee lower than the track, just enough to hold it down when the clamp is tightened.









Front and back.









That's it, ready to go.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it sure was an easy one.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._*
> 
> *Track saw track hold downs*
> using the scraps…
> ...


Cool! I like those Festool clamps!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._*
> 
> *Track saw track hold downs*
> using the scraps…
> ...


Yet another nice little fix.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.*

*Shelf pin holes for track routers*
Festool LR32 alternative.

I am planning to make a bookcase wall for my allotment house and would like moveable shelf's, so it was time to take up an old project idea:
Making a jig that can be used with my Festool tracks and router, to make repetitive shelf pin holes for cabinets.
Yes Festool makes one, but you have to buy the jig, a special track and so the price is close to madness, unless you make cabinets for a living.
Here a video in French with the LR32 system in use: 




So let's make one!









The router has a base (the black part) that runs on the tracks, I will make an attachment for it, that can reach the T-track part of the saw track. 
Then put a hard wood strip in the T-track, with holes that are spaced out, with the type I want, it can be Ikea standard or what ever, here I use some standard aluminium bookcase Shelving Strip that I was lucky to get, years back in Paris of all places, it fitted right into the T-track and had a good spacing for book shelf's.
You will understand all this later. ;-)









A piece of plexiglass cut to size are marked up, so it will fit over the T-track router attachment.









Removing the marked up part.









Now you can see it fits.
Also I cut a strip of plexiglass and put under, on top of the T-track part, this will be glued on, with CA glue.
Finally the two pieces of aluminium are the start of a locking mechanism.
(More about this later).









Btw - you can cut aluminium on your standard table saw, I do that a lot.









Ok removed the plastic and a knob on the jig, so you can get a better view.









Found a good spot in the Festool router attachment, to drill holes for the new part and then it was just to go for my drill press (did I tell you guys I got a new old drill press and love it).









Drilling.









Bolts.









Washers and wing nuts.









We are connected!









So fare so good. ;-)









Out of focus…
Working on the lever arm, making it from a square aluminium bar.









Trying out different ideas, no plan really, just knowing I need an arm, a spring, something to hold it in place.









The lever arm is a good place to start, making an arm that can click into the spacer slot, a hole for attachment, a cut out for the rocking and I put a rubber thing on for a soft finger spot - and because it looks sexy - and I had a bunch of them in a drawer… Laughs.









The pin that goes into the track are shaped and cut to length.









Like this.
(Yes I have now attached the mechanism and was so much into it, that I forgot to take pictures, but you will understand).









Here from the back a counter sink hole for holding the mechanism and one for the pin to go through.









From the side:
1. rubber thingy for soft finger touch and sexy effect.
2. Spring under the lever, that makes it pop back down.
3. Round furniture bolt with threaded hole in it, that locks down the hold for the lever.
4. Lever arm, the centre hole, needs to be made wider, so the arm can move freely, just rock the arm in the drill press.
5. Rubber washer so it can move, then normal washer and nut with locking (blue inside).
6. Pin is made of bolt with nut.









Here riding on the track with the spacer put in the track.
You can easily make these your self, just make a hard wood strip that fits the track and drill holes in the desired spacing.









Other side.









Lever arm clicked into a hole.









When pushed down it pops up and you can move the router.









That's it we got a shelf pin jig!
Happy monkey I am.
As long as the pin is riding on the spacer insert, it's up and will then click down into the next hole.

Video will come here, but at the moment LJ, will not work when I post videos…
Link: 




Hope it can be to some inspiration, it takes a little twisting, but it can be done.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.*
> 
> *Shelf pin holes for track routers*
> Festool LR32 alternative.
> ...


No that is awesome! Great little video, too!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.*
> 
> *Shelf pin holes for track routers*
> Festool LR32 alternative.
> ...


I probably would not have the use for such application, however, I do love your *indexer* design… top of my plagiarism list!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.*
> 
> *Shelf pin holes for track routers*
> Festool LR32 alternative.
> ...


Clever and works well.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*

*Bench dogs for the 20mm holes* 
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)









Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs. 
All dogs are threaded with M8.









Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.









Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!









Here some of my early home made fixtures. 
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.









I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…









Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.









A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.









Like this.









Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.









Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).









I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.









This can also be used on the plastic dogs.









Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.









Now the track can be put against the extenders.









Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.









I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Those look really nice!

I have watched the kids at school (where I used to teach and still substitute) make things with the 3-D printers. It is amazing- especially with the imaginations of teenagers!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Excellent addition Mads. Do they come in pink? LOL.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Love the whole Fe*$*tool MFT concept with dogs. Love that fact that you are prepared to track saw across your tabletop. 
NO idea how you made it but by the look of it, it may need a new transplant. I made my first one with a ruler, tape measure, a set square, hole punch, 20mm TCT forstner bit, drill press and free hand drilling for out of drill press reach holes. With that method, there would be no way I'd have faith in an accurate 90° using dogs only.

I used the Parf Guide Sytem (that has now been improved by the new Parf Mk II Guide System), 








to build a MFT clone(s) for myself and friends… I have made over 1/2 doz. of them and from table recipients, I have recovered cost from generous friendly donations. Helluva more reliable than my initial attempt.

I have a 3D printer, however, have shied away from making dogs due to tolerance reliability. You need to take care when filling,








as wrong pressure may (repeat *may*) disproportion two diameters… probably a fools excuse but as we strive for 101% accuracy, all has to be considered.

I have a swag of stainless dogs 









which are nowhere as tool friendly as plastic and aluminium… I have blades/chissels to prove it.

While on the topic of dogs, have you/viewers been exposed to the Super dog?









they are great for that flush dog… seated by a twist of the knob… does need a chamfer on the dog hole but the displayed tool or a large countersink.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Hi,

Lew, yes I have to admit also it fascinates me also, a lot, if I had a real project for it, I would buy a printer and start playing, but I can't really find any reason and see so many just printing stuff, I feel it's expensive for just some plastic stuff I don't need. But positively jealous and get the feeling of a child in a toy store, when I see them.
Smiles.

Brit, ha ha ha, yes that's just my color. Laugh. The printet versions will come in hand……..perhaps, for now they are just fun and the metal once has already been in use and are really cool.
Hmmmmm perhaps I should go and paint them pink………………………………………………….naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

LittleBlackDuck, what a collection you have there! 
I did not make my top, it was the one that came with the MFT3 table, I saw in all directions on it as you can see, I'm actually amazed I had it app 10 years now, so perhaps I should turn it soon… I did put a planning stop in it, but never use it after I got my big workbench.










I have been looking at one of these, it's precision made stainless, like this you can make half a table in one go and don't get the repetitive mis position factor. It's just over 100 usd. Then I can make as many tops and other variations as I want.
Cool hole system you have there.
The Superdogs looks real yummy don't think we have a local dealer.
Yes I'm aware the filling could result in lost precision, I was only filling of the top and the extra plastic, so no danger. On a cut of 70 cm, the 1/10 mm that it can maximum be, will not add op to something that can be seen.

Best thoughts,
Mads


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...





> .... I feel it s expensive for just some plastic stuff I don t need.
> 
> LittleBlackDuck,
> 
> ...


Two thing *mafe*,


Open up your creative juices… you would be surprised at what you can 3D print (outside the workshop). Most stuff I print is small (135mm x 135mm bed) and the printers nowdays are not super shekels… also if you are engineering minded, they can be fabricated for virtually bugger all… many internet feeds to walk you through.
That stainless looks cool, however, how do you drill the holes… If it's "hand" feed of a forstner bit, misaligned bits can become expensive replacement. Whatever system is adopted, if you send out feelers amongst your local woodie buddies (and maybe combine that with any "men's shed" clubs in the area) you could amortise the cost of that "one of use" jig to pennies.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Yes it could be fun 3D printing some stuff.
The stainless thingy has 30mm holes. So it's used with a 30mm copy ring and 20mm spiral bit in the router. Quite clever idea.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...





> Yes it could be fun 3D printing some stuff.
> The stainless thingy has 30mm holes. So it s used with a 30mm copy ring and 20mm spiral bit in the router. Quite clever idea.
> - mafe


Just in case you were one of the few thousand+ LJ members that missed my 3D post, being near Christmas, here's a collection of 3D printed Stocking Fillers (lots of pictures, easier to view downloaded).

Now I do like the concept of that *stainless thingy* as you described. The copy ring would fit snug and if you used a 20mm (or 3/4" for you tragic USA misguided wretches) router bit, plunging would give a good toleranced hole and you wouldn't have to face that crappy forstner bit bottom out or delaminating ply which stops the plunge.
Downside $100 (US$) to buy and with the weight (and size) of stainless, probably $500 (US$) to ship to Australia…


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Hmmmmm I can't make the link work…
Just looked at some of your 3D - amazing.
Yes I think the shipping will make it stupid…
Perhaps you can find a lazer guy there, who can cut you one…


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...





> Hmmmmm I can t make the link work…
> 
> Perhaps you can find a lazer guy there, who can cut you one…
> - mafe


 
Which link… Hope it's not the missing one the missus accuses me off.
No need for another item that makes me contemplate which tool I should use. My redundancy bin is bloody redundant.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Yes the missing link, it's exactly what I mean, found it, this morning, in the mirror, if I had only looked before…, well if I had, I might have never left the house, from now I will just stay in the workshop, curtains down and dimmed lights. My ohhh, just realizing my GF should have a medal or a guide dog, well perhaps this is why, she insist on the lights off… 








Happy new year.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Mads,

COOL work…

Question: Why weren't the 3D Printed dogs designed with the threaded holes so they would not have to be drilled?
Using Fusion 360, the threads could have been included in the 3D model.

Interesting approach…


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.*
> 
> *Bench dogs for the 20mm holes*
> reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.
> ...


Hi Joe.
Thanks.
The dos were designed ad delivered with a threaded hole. I just cleaned up the outside. I used that thread to hold them in the drill press.
Smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table*

*Vac hose holder for MFT3*
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.









At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.









Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.









Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.









Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.









A bolt goes up into the bench dog.









Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table*
> 
> *Vac hose holder for MFT3*
> or any work table.
> ...


Nice work, Mads. Necessity is the mother of invention!!

Cheers,Jim


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table*
> 
> *Vac hose holder for MFT3*
> or any work table.
> ...


Clever idea. I like that clamping device.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table*
> 
> *Vac hose holder for MFT3*
> or any work table.
> ...


Smiles Jim and Lew, less is plenty as I like to say.
Thanks Jim, yes I love to go by that rule.
Thanks Lew, I look forward to have to clamp somewhere stupid, where it would otherwise be impossible, Laugh.
But it will be useful many places also on my lathe.
Best thoughts to both of you,
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table*
> 
> *Vac hose holder for MFT3*
> or any work table.
> ...


That is a great idea and much better than getting the wife to hold the vac hose.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table*
> 
> *Vac hose holder for MFT3*
> or any work table.
> ...


Brit, big laugh Andy, as you know I don't have a wife… I have a lover, hmmmm, I might have to ask her…
Thank you and a big smile.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*

*Festool CMS cross cut sled*
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.









Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.









The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.









Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes. 
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.









Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.









This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.









Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.









Like so.









Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.









Make sure you get a tight fit.









Do you get the picture?









We have a mount.









The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.









Cut to length.









Using the sled - smiles.









Now the mount can be attached to the fence.









Just screws.









Here we have it in place.









Underside.









Finally in place.









Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Pretty cool, as usual. That is a slick design.

Cheers, Jim


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Not sure why but the photos only show up in the notification of the post in my email but not the actual LJ blog.

Nice work Mads as always


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


I wish I had your ability to design.

Super sled!

I'm also still having difficulty seeing the images in the body of your blogs- using Chrome. They show up in other browsers, including the new Edge browser.


----------



## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


I am getting no pics. Any Ideas?

Madts.


----------



## rotorgeek (Jan 21, 2020)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Having the same issue.



> I am getting no pics. Any Ideas?
> 
> Madts.
> 
> - madts


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Hi guys,
Don't understand the picture thing…, it works perfect here in Edge. Firefox and on my Samsung mobile phone.
I have written to Cricket again, to see if LJ can fix the problem.
Never had a problem before, doing things the way I have always done.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Testing Images










Can everyone see this image?


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Het! Cricket brought lunch!


----------



## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Yes, the image of the delicious looking meat can be seen. Now let me just wipe the drool off my keyboard!


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Yes the test picture is visible with chrome.

As far as I can tell, I have had no problem with post from other people.
Although some people seem to publish post without picture. Most of the time somebody ask for pictures to understand what it is about.

But here, we are sure there should be pictures. as we can see them with another browser.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Very nice buddy, hope all is well.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Yes image is perfect Cricket, I'm hungry now.
Smiles.
Can you guys who have problems viewing, see this picture of a cross cut sled here:


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Do you see a workmate here if you don't see the others:


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Cricket, I can see that my browser says it's a not safe connection, when I see my blog, where other blogs don't say that… So I can suspect, that it has something to do with the fact that I store my pictures in the cloud and put them as links, instead of uploading them. This has not been a problem before, so strange why it starts to do that.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Jazzpa (Nov 16, 2017)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Dear Mads,

this is Jasper from Germany, well north Germany (det mange nord at jeg laerte lidt dansk i skole) speaking. I hope that made at least a little sense in any way 
I came across this wonderful site years ago and always come back mainly because of you and the lovely work you share.
This is my very first post here and I really should write some kind words about how inspiring, entertaining and stunning your blog posts are, what a big treasure this community is and how amazed I still am about how many nice individual just share their knowledge and experience here just from joy.

But the real reason I am writing is that I might be able to help with the picture issue:
You implement image sources from a non SSL/TLS encrypted source (your private homepage) to an encrypted site (lumberjocks.com). I am not a real pro in this topic but I assume that this could be considered to be some kind of "security issue" and some Browsers would be more uptight about this than others.

Best wishes and regards,
Jasper

EDIT: Cricket's image in comparison, is hosted by amazon/AWS and encrypted. Web encryption by the way is always a good idea and certificates don't have to cost money: https://letsencrypt.org/
Maybe your webspace provider offers it without any hassle?


----------



## Jazzpa (Nov 16, 2017)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Appendix: After some cross-browser checking I can confirm that the issue is caused by the inclusion of non-SSL/TLS content to an SSL/TLS encrypted site. Different browsers on different version numbers on different operating systems behave differently and sometimes very unpredictable.  That would explain why it came out of a sudden. discovered this image issue myself on Chrome Browser since… maye one or two months?

Well the good thing is that some browsers are telling more about their sorrows than others and my Firefox explains it pretty straigtforward:
"The connection to this website is not fully secure because it contains unencrypted elements (such as images)."


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.*
> 
> *Festool CMS cross cut sled*
> fast mount, easy to use.
> ...


Hi Jasper,
Du skriver fint Dansk. Smiles.
Congrats on the first post, proud it was for me.
Yes LJ is a wonderful place, where so much is shared, just out of kindness for others and I personally finds great joy in this and have learned a lot of my skills here.
Honestly I know little about internet and SSL/TLS encrypted source… but I will try and write the supplier I use, to see if they can make it secure, so everyone can see the pictures again. They put my stuff on a new server just recently, guess this must be where the troubles started… Thank you so much for trying to help, it is really kind of you, I were about to give up as my own and LJ's tech knolage seemed to do no good… I were actually thinking of starting my own site, now I can spend my time playing with wood.
I have several blogs I would like to post, so hope the problem gets solved.
Thank you a lot for those kind words, they really touched me deep. 
Best of my thoughts and hopes for you,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*

*Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.

UPDATE, a new version with zero clearance can be found here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/131924

I simply love the little Makita 18V saw, it is a gem and a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, so I decided to make it into one, by making an adaptor.

This is not a full build, just an inspiration tour, for others to use.









The saw connected to the rail with new adaptor.
It runs on the back of the rail, so I don't use the zero clearence strip, as it is set for my Festool saws.
All it does is to keep the saw on track.









From the side.
No I don't saw into the table… Laugh.









This is my 18V Makita saw, this model don't have a track adaptor and only one slot for a fence.









First up is to make a slider for the rails.
I mark up the slots and make rabbets.









Like this.









Sliding on the track.









Next up, I just bend two metal brackets (IKEA closet left over).
In this end, to old the saw base into the fence.









In other end to be attached to the saws front, onto the knob for the side fence.









The cut outs on the rail adaptor is for the motor to be able to get fully down and in the back for the locking lever.









Underside.









Had to k´make an extender washer. Out of some tubing.









Here with side fence.









The extender.









Spring fits inside.









Screwed onto the adaptor.









Also made a little extra thingy.
This is a wing nut.








Underside a flat head bolt.









Bolt head.









Sticking up, so it can catch the track.









Like this.









When tightened loosely, it holds the saw on the track.









So you will be able to lift saw and track in one move.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or keep you on track…

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*
> 
> *Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
> Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.
> ...


Sorry if some of you can't see the pictures try different browser or allow non secure pictures.
I have asked my server provider, to look into it now.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*
> 
> *Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
> Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.
> ...


Really cool build, Mads! Thanks for sharing.

Funny thing about the images. The email notification of your post shows where the images should be-







Google chrome doesn't display them but Firefox and others do. When I copied and pasted the email notification image link, I could see each one using Google chrome.

Stay safe and well my friend.

Lew


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*
> 
> *Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
> Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.
> ...


I believe the problem is that the images are http, and chrome won't mix secure and insecure data on a web page. If you make the images available via https, they should work correctly (I'm just guessing, but my guess fits the symptoms I can see from here on my iPad).


----------



## icemanhank (Jun 30, 2012)

mafe said:


> *Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*
> 
> *Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
> Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.
> ...


Very cool Mads


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

mafe said:


> *Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*
> 
> *Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
> Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.
> ...


At first I thought this was a complex build but it is rather unique. I have a small cordless saw too and this can be handy for certain things. I like it and it's on my list.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._*
> 
> *Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw*
> Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.
> ...


Hi guys,
Lew, yes it's browser specific and seems to depend on if they allow my servers pictures, have written my host and awaits answers.
Dave, Yes my host need to make the connection to a specific encryption, I have asked for this. 
Iceman, smiles, love that name, thanks.
doubleDD, You are right this is not complex at all, it can be made for any saw or tool and you could even make it for a T.track, if you don
t have a rail. Worth building if needed, I am sure I will enjoy it in my allotment house. Thanks.
Best thoughts and a smile,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop*

*Festool fence and rail dogs*
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:









The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).









I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.









Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.









For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.









Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…









A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.









Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.









The hex key shortened.









To fit inside the rail.









Ready to rock and cut.









Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.









Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).









Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.









The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

mafe said:


> *Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop*
> 
> *Festool fence and rail dogs*
> updates to the workshop.
> ...


In the link in my email I can open your pictures. When I'm on the LJ site I don't see any pictures. This is not only with this post but also with the ones before about the Festool stuff.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

mafe said:


> *Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop*
> 
> *Festool fence and rail dogs*
> updates to the workshop.
> ...


Sexy dogs Mads, that's a nifty set up you have now. Is there a special name for them?
One thing I notice whenever you post something there is always some food involved in the picture. Make me hungry.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop*
> 
> *Festool fence and rail dogs*
> updates to the workshop.
> ...


Clever idea with the magnets to hold the allen wrench.

Funny but when on my phone, Google Chrome displays the images perfectly!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop*
> 
> *Festool fence and rail dogs*
> updates to the workshop.
> ...


Hi there,
Dutchy, sorry, we are working on it, think the problem is found.
doubleDD, Laughs yes dam sexy! The dogs for the fence are called fence dogs, the system table is Festool MFT.
The dogs are all bought at https://benchdogs.co.uk/ the have loads of cool stuff, for the 20mm holes.
Smiles, yes there are a thing about me and food, beer, whiskey, snacks, tobacco and woman… Laugh. Happy it makes you hungry. I love to enjoy life.
Lew, I know from experience, that I would look for that allen wrench again and again, if I did not come up with an solution. Smiles. Yes the picture thing is really strange, sees like the browsers run on different sets of rules.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop*
> 
> *Festool fence and rail dogs*
> updates to the workshop.
> ...


Lew, can you try now? I have changed the file extensions to https instead of http, my host says that's what is needed…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*

*Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut. 
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version. 
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.









Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.









The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.









Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.








Marking where the T-slot is located.









Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.









A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board. 
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).









Make sure it's a tight fit.









On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.









Roger rabbet…









Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip. 
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.









Testing it out.









Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.









As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.









But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up. 
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.








The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…









Perhaps something like this.









Well that might work!









Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.









Glue.









We got a sliding fixture.









Less is plenty, big smile.









The devil is in the detail.









This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.









More glue.









Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.









Zoom.









Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.









What a mess.









I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.









So I can drill a hole in the centre.









8mm straight in the middle.









There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track. 








Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.









Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.









Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.









Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.









Drilling a hole.









Marking position.









Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.









Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.









It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.









Backside.









This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.









Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.









The fence.









Top.









Sliding the rail on to it.









Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.









Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.









This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.









Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.









And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.









Fits in a systainer.









But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


Love that washer idea- Inspired!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


you just gave me another project that i can really use buddy,thank you.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


It looks like a very surprised fence! Perhaps it saw the happy monkey dance.

Less is plenty, my friend. Well done!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


Hi there,
Lew, smiles, yes less is more at times. Smiles, a big one.
Pottz, So happy if this is the case, look forward to see your go on it. Thanks.
Dave, Yes this is the Ohhhhhhhh fence, the Ohhhh happy dancing monkey fence… Laughs, thanks.
Best thoughts and thanks for leaving a word,
Mads


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...





> you just gave me another project that i can really use buddy,thank you.
> 
> - pottz


+1

Thanks for the roadmap.


----------



## MikeJT (Mar 1, 2018)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


Great job thanks for the detail.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


Hi guys,

Andybb, +1 big smile here. Lovely word for a blog 'rodmap'.

MikeJT, Thanks, always happy to share the journey.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mtnwild (Sep 28, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


Yea, No…Looks way too complicated and precise to me…Plus no Festools'''

Would like to know if in that last photo, if that's one of your drawings?

Cool man…


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> can be made for any rail.
> ...


Hi Jack,
Laughs, this was the simple one, no one needs Festool, it's a luxury item, I have worked with Estonian woodworkers, that could make things of a unbelievable standard, with a dull chisel, a hammer and a rusty skill saw. It just makes it easier to be precise, when your tool is.
Yes that is a croquis / live drawing of mine, a discipline I have enjoyed a lot, as you learn to focus and feel a shape, as you have no time, to use your intellectual side.
Best thoughts thanks,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy*

*Simple speed square rail square*
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.









That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.









Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.









A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.









Just like this.









No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.









Smiles.









Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.









Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy*
> 
> *Simple speed square rail square*
> easy peasy.
> ...


I wish I had your "eye" for designing working devices that are this simple and quick. I always over engineer everything.

Another inspired add-on. Maybe you'll get hired by the Festool engineering department!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy*
> 
> *Simple speed square rail square*
> easy peasy.
> ...


Thank you Lew, wait until you see my next version, this was where I over engineered big time. Laugh.
I'm retired, so not for hire, love to sleep late, smiles.
Best of my thoughts to you my dear friend.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy*
> 
> *Simple speed square rail square*
> easy peasy.
> ...


Nice, Mads! Clever monkey!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy*
> 
> *Simple speed square rail square*
> easy peasy.
> ...


Hi Dave, thanks. 
This one is so easy, it's almost too easy… laughs. 
It was nice to get, this monkey off my back.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail*

*Festool / Makita rail square DIY* 
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.









This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.









You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.









Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.









A little sanding and it's a fit.









I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.









Like so.









The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.









Finding the centre.









Time for cutting some acrylics.









I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.









Marking a straight line.









Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.









Colouring with a Sharpie.









So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.









Clear marks.









Drilling the holes.









This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.









In the connector also.









Grinded the heads of the bolts down.









Marking for the bolt heads.









A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.









It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…









Other side.









Now it can be squared up.









Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.









Like so.









We got a square, but I want more stability.









This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…









Gluing layers of acrylics together.









Making sure they are straight.









Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.








Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.









Hold in place thingy profile ready.









Will be mounted like this.









Epoxy.









Clamps to hold it, while it dry.









Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.









Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.









Hole in the side drilled for bolt.









Then a hole in the fence.









Countersink it on the back.









Wing nut and locking washer.









So it can turn.









Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….









Back side of rail square.









Front side.









Slide in place and tighten bolts.









Ready to use.









Back side.









One more hole drilled.









Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> this one an acrylic version-
> ...


Definitely over-engineered, but it looks like you had fun!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> this one an acrylic version-
> ...


I might redo it, so it becomes like the plywood version, for now it will stay on the wall. It had a purpose, it made the thinking for the plywood version possible, sometimes we have to cross a lake, to get water.
Smiles, thanks, yes I had lots of fun, even finishing it, was not as fun, once I had the plywood version made, as I liked that a lot better.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> this one an acrylic version-
> ...


Here a woodworking video to enjoy:


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> this one an acrylic version-
> ...


I'm afraid I'd break the plastic one. I tend to drop things.

Beautiful build, Mads.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail*
> 
> *Festool / Makita rail square DIY*
> this one an acrylic version-
> ...


Thank you, I think the same, that's why I ended up making the plywood version, as I'm planning to use it in the allotment around the house, so it might get some beating. Now the fancy acrylic version can stay in the workshop.
Big smile dear Lew.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.*

*Makita rail / track adaptor*
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.









So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.









Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.









IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.









Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.









A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…









Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.









Marking the rail T. tracks position.









And how deep they are.









To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.









First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.









Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.









Slowly work your way out.









I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.









But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.









I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.









Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.









Lowering the high spot.









Yeps we are there.









This will work fine.









Transfer markings to the big base piece.









Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.









T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.









Setting deepness for the low rabbet.









Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.









Closing in.









We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.









Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit









Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.









Base, runner and zero clearance.









Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.









Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.









So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.









Just make a mark









Have to be the inside of the blade.









Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.









Marking on both sides.









Marked up.









Diving in with a plunge saw.









Cleaning out with a jig saw.









Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw. 
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.









And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!









Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.









Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.









The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.









Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.









We are through.









Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.









Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.









Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.









Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.









Nice and smooth.









Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.









Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.









Something to push down here…









Well this might work.









Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.









Drum roll…









Perfect!









A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.









Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.









With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.









The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.









I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.









First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.









Drilling with 5mm drill bit.









Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.









The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.









Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.









Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.









Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.









Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.









Front end lowered.









Once in place the front hold can be set in action.









Just put it down on the table saw base.









And tighten the wing nuts.









Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.









Let's find a track.









Yes!!!









Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.









The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.









Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.









Base edges rounded.









The same with all the inside edges.









I kind of like these little holds.









New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.









Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use: 




Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.*
> 
> *Makita rail / track adaptor*
> with zero clearance.
> ...


Nicely detailed build Mads. Something I think we all could use in our shop.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.*
> 
> *Makita rail / track adaptor*
> with zero clearance.
> ...


Very nice build! Almost makes me want to buy some track…


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.*
> 
> *Makita rail / track adaptor*
> with zero clearance.
> ...


Well done, my friend!

Loved the video, too!


----------



## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.*
> 
> *Makita rail / track adaptor*
> with zero clearance.
> ...


That's really cool. I have plans to buy a cordless saw similar to yours. I will keep your design in mind. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.*
> 
> *Makita rail / track adaptor*
> with zero clearance.
> ...


Hi there,
Tim, I think both in the shop and on the road. It can be easily made and adapted to any track. Thanks.
Dave, Smiles, wonder if you got it for Christmas, laugh. Thank you.
lew, It was a joy to make that video, as my daughter were the photographer and we had a great time, did it in first run. Thank you my friend.
Doug, I can highly recommend the saw, I have used it a lot, had no idea a cordless saw and router were such a bonus, the router has suddenly become a favourite tool and I used to hate them. Thank you for the comment.
Best of my thoughts to all of you,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.*

*Engineers vice mount plate*
for the MFT3 table.

When I make stuff like jigs and so in the workshop, I often find my self running from one end to the other, as my engineers vice is in an other room by my big workbench, but the other day I had it! Since I have several vices laying around, I decided to dedicate one to my MFT3 workbench, like this the running can come to an end and I can focus on the work.

I had an engineers swivel base, clamp on vice that I found good for the project, as it was not too heavy and will come on and off, when needed and stored under the table or hanging on the wall, when not in use.









Cut a piece of strong plywood 2 cm thick.
Gave it a 20 mm hole to fit the MFT3 system.
Then rounded the edges for joy and comfort.









Testing it by cutting screws for the router fence I were working on, as I got tired of running and made this add on to the table.
Vice clamped to the plate and plate mounted to MFT3 with a clamp.
It works perfectly fine, but it can move from side to side…
(If you make a wider plate it can be held in two holes and give stability).









I did not want it wider, perhaps even narrower, so I had to stabilize it.
Put a long fence dog through the hole and through the table, to fix the position and locked it down with a clamp.
The a square to make it square to the table.









Made a small fence from some of the off cut and gave it a small rabbet.









Glue.









Pushed it firmly against the table and brat nailed it.









And brat nails from the back.
Might be good to give it some screws also, to add strength.









A bench dog and a large nob.









Knob goes on from the under side and so it is all fixed.









For less demanding tasks, you can make a quick mount, with a clap.
Or a combination of dog and clamp.

In America you are wise, when you use a vise, in England it would be vice…, in Denmark a vise is a folk song - who said it would be easy…

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a song at least…

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.*
> 
> *Engineers vice mount plate*
> for the MFT3 table.
> ...


That's clever! One of my problems with my engineer's vise is that it always seems to be on the wrong end of my workbench. Either it's in the way, and I want it in the back corner, or I need to hold something larger (like a chair seat, a la John Brown) and need it on the front corner in the middle of the room.

I've been pondering how to put wooden jaws on mine to make it more generally useful, as well. I have the magnetically-held plastic inserts, but I think I would rather have wooden jaws bolted on. Which requires drilling holes in the face of the vise jaws, which are fairly hard… or perhaps there's a better solution.

In any case, great work, and now you've got me thinking as well.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.*
> 
> *Engineers vice mount plate*
> for the MFT3 table.
> ...











I made these for the vice by my workbench.








There are a rare earth magnet in the center, this holds them in place, when you open and close.
They rest on the bed, but you could make them go over the metal jaws.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.*
> 
> *Engineers vice mount plate*
> for the MFT3 table.
> ...


Pretty cool, Mads. I made a similar one for my shop at home, We think alike a lot!

Cheers, Jim


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.*
> 
> *Engineers vice mount plate*
> for the MFT3 table.
> ...


+1 for what Jim said!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.*
> 
> *Engineers vice mount plate*
> for the MFT3 table.
> ...


Hi guys,
Dave P, Thank you. Yes they are always in the way, when they are fixed, I have that issue in my allotment. That's why I mount them like this. I posted a blog for you https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/131987 to show the wood jaws. I like this version, because I can use the vice in both ways, instead of only wood jaws.
Jim, I can imagine, smiles. Yes we do think a lot the same, I have seen that over the years, Thank you.
Lew, +1 for you dear Lew, big warm smile.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Router template square - Festool MFS type*

*Router template square*
Festool MFS type.

Yet another jig… a template for routing square holes or rabbets, with any router.

Inspired by the Festool MFS, I wanted a simple template, to use with my routers, so I could make a easy fast setup and didn't have to make a new template for each project.
Why not just buy the Festool template? 
Well a price tag of 3725dkk / 580usd / 500euro… 
Do I need to say more?

There are hundreds of these DIY versions out there on the web, there are three types, those who use a T-track on the side of a board, those who have a routed T-track in to the board and finally the more prof aluminium profile versions. I went for the last because I wanted this to be another recycle project and just found some laminated solid wood core board cut offs in the street, where my workshop is, also I'm a hobbyist, so it will not be heavily abused and yes, I have to pay the cost, out of my own pocket.

Due to the recycle elements and the fact that I had the router bit to route the slot, the price of my template, was 20dkk / 3usd / 3,7euro, for the eight hex head bolts and washers, in other words 1/186 of the price.









Starting at the table saw, the recycled laminated wood were cut up into strips.









Laminate fiber board and solid wood core.
I think it was shelf material, to make some stronger shelf's for some bookcases, judging from the rest of the trash I saw there.









To make the T-slots, this router bit will be used, actually bought it to make keyhole hanging, for another project years back, now it finally get to use again.









Marking app depth.









Setting the table saw.









Test cuts.









Running the strips through the table saw.









I do this to take some stress of the wood and the router bit.









Test, test, test.









To make sure I find the right spot for the T-slot.
As you can see, I put a fence on each side of the router bit, to make sure it did not move.









T-tracks routed.









Are they spot on?









Nope, but fine enough, as long as you keep the same side down or up.









Marking up for the hardware holes.









Do you get the picture?









At the drill press.









Let's drill.









Circe centre hole.









Dust exit hole.









Now the big hole can be drilled.
The drilling with these cup drill bits are much easier, when you have a dust exit hole.









Hole in one!
it's just dust, there are no tear out, as I turn half ways and drill from other side.









Sides are squared up with a fine tooth jigsaw blade.









I had some flat bar metal in a junk box and decided to go all in on the hardware part.
Here rounding ends.









That's it.









Nice! :-D









Don't get to close to disc sanders, here I were lucky it was just the nail.
Yes I know I have the worn hands of a working man.









Marking.









Making a test threading.









That's fine.
I pre drilled a 4,5mm hole, the threaded a 5mm thread.









Using a drill for the rest, to speed up a wee bit.









We got hardware.
If you are to lazy for this, or don't have the tools, you can just use T-square bolts, it will be fine, this is just a little stronger and put the stress load over a bigger area. If you make them with T-tracks or alu, this would be waste of time.









Marking for bolt holes.









Drilling the bolt holes.









Here we are, the hard part is over.
You might notice I also rounded the edges with a 45degree router bit.









My bolts were a tiny bit too long, so I decided to adjust them, instead of just putting more washers.









That's it.









Test fitting and it seems to be perfect now.
Here you can get the picture of how it works.









To make all bolts same length, I cut a piece of plywood to the correct depth and drilled a hole in it.









So the too much part was sticking out.









Then it was done in no time and they were all the same.









Cleaning up with sandpaper.









Waxing the tracks.









And taddddaaaaaa we got a template.
Mine is a 900mm version, so I can cut rabbets in cabinets if needed.









Loosen bolts and slide to desired size.









Then tighten, it's that easy to use.









Checking for square and it's all fine.
(Also on diagonal).









Now you can route with a bush bearing bit or a copy ring on your router









Job done.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some templates.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Router template square - Festool MFS type*
> 
> *Router template square*
> Festool MFS type.
> ...


Great Blog, Mads. I will be making one!!

Cheers, my friend…............Jim


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## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Router template square - Festool MFS type*
> 
> *Router template square*
> Festool MFS type.
> ...


Thanks Mads.That one will be quite handy in my shop too. A great winter project!
Best,
Serge


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Router template square - Festool MFS type*
> 
> *Router template square*
> Festool MFS type.
> ...


Hi guys,

Jim,

Brico, Hi Serge, long time since I heard from you, how wonderful. Hope life is good and you still 'make stuff', I will have to give your www a visit soon. Yes this project is just up your alley. Thank you.

Best thoughts,
Mads


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Router template square - Festool MFS type*
> 
> *Router template square*
> Festool MFS type.
> ...


That's a nice jig / template, Mads! If I ever get a router, I'll try to keep it in mind.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Router template square - Festool MFS type*
> 
> *Router template square*
> Festool MFS type.
> ...


As always, my Friend, a well thought out and useful accessory for the shop.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Router template square - Festool MFS type*
> 
> *Router template square*
> Festool MFS type.
> ...


Hi Dave P & Lew.

Thank you both for your always kind comments and friendship.

Best thoughts guys,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*

*Table saw joinery jig DIY*
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.









Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.









Might be the hot wine…









Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.









The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.









Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.









Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts. 
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).









Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.









Cut to length of the jig.









Small spacers in same width.









Will be constructed like this, for stability.









Back side.









Marking up, where the parts go.









Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.









The centre can be found now.









To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.









Glue time!









Everything ready.









Glue up.









All in place.









Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.









Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.









The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.









Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…









This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.









Do you get it?









Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.









The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.









To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.









I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed. 
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.









Marks for screws.









I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.









A straight edge onto the line I marked up.









The 5 cm plywood strips.









Put against the straight edge.









A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.









Marking up where the toggle clamp go.









Pre drill.









Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.









Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.









So it can go like this.









Thinner spacers on top.









Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.









The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.









No more talk, let's test it.









A piece of wood clamped in.









You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.









First cut made, looks good.









The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.









Un clamp toggle.









Looks fine to me.









Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.









The jig is put on the fence.









Back side.









Wood piece put in place.









Clamped down.









This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.









Let's saw!









First cut made.









Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.









Clamped in place.









Second cut made, this makes it dead center.









Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.









We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use: 












All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.









Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.









Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## icemanhank (Jun 30, 2012)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Awesome Mads, you are so funny too. Merry Christmas my friend!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Merry Christmas, Mads! Nicely done!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Awesome design, my friend. Merry Christmas!


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## torus (Apr 8, 2017)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Nice jig!
I would put two toggle clamps for more stability.

I need to build one.


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## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Merry Christmas to you and all you people out there. Have a good new Year and please prepare for the worst but hope for the best


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Hi guys,

icemanhank, dear David thanks with a big warm Christmas smile, bad humor is better than no humor (I think…), my daughter Mathilde call my humor granddad humor, she might have a point, ho ho ho.

Dave Polaschek, Thanks Dave, the same to you and the family.

lew, Big smile dear Lew, Merry ChristMads from Copenhagen.

torus, I had actually taken two toggles out to mount, as I thought like you, but one are so tight, that I can't move the piece, so I just stayed there and then think I'll use a clamp, if doing longer or heavier pieces. 
You will not regret building one, it takes no time and is surprisingly sturdy, but most of all easy to use and no mounting time, just adjust the toggle, or go all in with clamps, I were thinking to make two grooves and use my Festool track clamps, but just wanted to use a toggle, for the fun of it, as I had some. I think I'll put a wing nut on the toggle clamp, just to make it tool free to operate it.

snowdog, Thanks a lot, the Christmas spirit are starting to grow here, I think I'll go to my workshop to get all bosted of Santas workshop mood, before going to my brothers house, to celebrate the evening. I hope, trust me I do. Smiles. Happy new year!

Best thoughts and a big smile,
Mads


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Sweet jig Mads. I like the fingers drawn on it. As long as you're showing and not giving. LOL.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Merry Christmas, Mads . Nice description of the build process…...............Cheers, JIm


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Hi,

doubleDD, LOL, yes I better be showing… Thanks with a smile. Merry Christmas to you and the family.

Jim Jakosh, Thank you, this one was so simple, that I felt almost stupid I did not make one earlier, laughs. So I thought it was worth sharing. My table is also the one for my router, I just put in a different top and this means that any jug made for the table saw also goes for the router, so here it can get a double use. Cheers and Merry Christmas dear Jim.

Best of my thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)*
> 
> *Table saw joinery jig DIY*
> for my Festool CMS LA fence
> ...


Just made a www search and found a few links for inspiration:
https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/adjustable-tenon-jig/
https://www.woodsmith.com/article/table-saw-tricks-for-making-vertical-cuts-how-to-cut-rabbets-with-a-tall-fence/ 
https://www.woodsmith.com/article/versatile-table-saw-jig/
Perhaps this was where I got the inspiration at the first place, I remember it was one with a toggle clamp!. Here they also put the stop and toggle on the back and made different front plates for it, clever, even though I think I would rater just make a few jigs as they are so easy to make.:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/01/07/free-plan-3-in-1-joinery-jig-for-the-tablesaw
The down side to this, is that it will not function as a tear out block, but I think it will be more clever to make that as a loose item anyhow, as it will be destroyed…
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/04/22/a-slick-tenoning-jig
This one is quite cool also, if you have a wider fence.
https://www.google.com/search?q=table+saw+multi+jig&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiatKTN9P70AhWOxioKHcCwDzIQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=table+saw+multi+jig&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECAAQEzoGCAAQBxAeOggIABAIEAcQHlCjEljlMWCHNWgCcAB4AIABcIgBmAaSAQM0LjSYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&sclient=img&ei=CQnHYdqLLo6NqwHA4b6QAw&bih=792&biw=1519&hl=da#imgrc=PBgCywCTENYvlM&imgdii=za23Or9IwdIFDM
Another type, with drawings.

I love the internet! 
Remember as a boy, I had to go to the library to find inspiration and carry home stacks of books, now it's just a click away.


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