# Lift Coffee Table



## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

*It starts with a plan...*

I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").




























The table is made from 3/4" (23/32") oak ply, with 3/4" oak for the side panel rails and stiles and 1 1/4" oak for the table lid banding. The legs are 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" oak and the panels are 1/4" oak beadboard. The picture below shows a mortise and tenon setup attached to the legs, but I will likely go with pocket screws for the majority of the construction with the top edge banding attached with biscuits.










Lee Valley has the lift I'll be using:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40573&cat=3,43586,43594

I'm not totally sold on the beadboard panels yet, and would be interested in hearing any opinions on what might go well with the oak. Maybe some veneer on a 1/4" panel?


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


Looks cool. I look forward to seeing it done.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


This project looks pretty good and you Sketchup drawings are well done too.

This is going to be an interesting project.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


sounds cool and you've got a good start here. can't wait until construction begins.


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## tame1 (Apr 25, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


What are the chances that you would post the Sketchup files for that table?


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


I usually post the files up once I finish and make sure everything worked-out, but I'm fairly confident in this one so I'll provide the link now:

http://cid-258899c12334cc4d.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Lift%20Coffee%20Table

If I change things I usually change the Sketchup files as well.


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## charles340 (Jan 12, 2011)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


i have a question about your design. I'm a high school senior and i was hoping to use your design for a project; it looks like a very cool design. I was wondering what hinge you used for the table part.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


This is the lift/hinge I used:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40573&cat=3,43586,43594

Not cheap, but it works very well.


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## jorjsal (Mar 20, 2013)

gwurst said:


> *It starts with a plan...*
> 
> I have a server in my basement hooked-up to the television, and a wireless keyboard and mouse I use on a coffee table when I need to access it directly. I get tired of looking at the PC bits sitting on the table and leaning-over to use them, so I've decided to build a lift coffee table to hide the parts and bring them closer to me when I need them. I took the following design from a book I have, but modified it for a different lifting mechanism and some general dimension changes (along with adjusting for the fact that 3/4" ply is actually 23/32").
> 
> ...


I am looking to build something similar, but with a smaller apron and a shelf 3 inches or so from the bottom to set baskets on. I am just learning sketchup. Any chance you can share your plan so I do not have to start from scratch?

Jerry


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

*Progress report*

I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.










In this second picture I'm attaching the top to the legs and apron, again with pocket screws. I notched the corners with my scroll saw and it worked very well. For pieces that don't show the joinery I really like pocket screws due to the sped of assembly and a very solid connection. You can also see the holes in the bottom of the legs than will accept the 3/8" inserts for leg levelers.










Here's a top view of the table. The sides are covered with a decorative panel so you won't see the ends of the plywood.










Here I've taped and marked the opening for the lift and lower section of the table. Using a jigsaw and a straight edge gives an acceptable straight cut that can be cleaned-up easily with an orbital sander.










Here you see the completed cutout. Even with the tape and a precision blade the jigsaw still has some slight tearout on the crosscuts. Not sure what you can do with an interior cut like this on plywood to eliminate it. The exposed edges will be covered with wood edge banding.










Here you see the corner bracing I've added to stiffen the corners and provide the table with more strength. The corner braces are 3/4" oak I salvaged from a stair railing I mentioned in another blog.










I'll be banding the lid and assembly the decorative side here next. I'm still not sure what I'm doing for the 1/4" inserts in the decorative sides. The beadboard at the box stores is cheesy, and they don't have any in unfinished oak. I've thought about veneering some panels with some nice veneer I have, but the long pieces would need to be bookmatched and I haven't tried veneering yet and don't have a vacuum press. I might have to wait awhile and look for some actual oak beadboard to buy.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


*Lookin' good!!!! *Please keep us posted.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


You can iron on veneer, here is how to do it:

1. Get the paper-backed veneer that is widely available. The paper-backed is easier to deal with, the raw veneer may send you straight to the head of the class in the level of difficulty.

2. EVENLY spread Titebond glue on both surfaces to be joined and let dry. Evenly is key as you can see by the emphasis.

3. Use iron to press the two together. Use a shop towel between the iron and veneer. I use it on the "high" setting. Have a roller or piece of wood for concentrating pressure as needed.

This works really well. Try a couple of test pieces and you will figure out how fast you need to move with the iron for a good bond.

I have a vacuum press and I still do this sometimes because the vac press can't do it all.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


Regular Titebond glue or the cold press veneering glue? I thought about trying this veneer glue I was recommended:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?products_id=737&osCsid=35adb02345917fd44aaebb94c1421e48

The biggest problem I see is that you can't easily bookmatch with iron-on veneering due to wood creep and shrinkage. Of course, If I buy a paper-backed veneer in the sizes I need that wouldn't be a problem.

Right now I'm talking to a company in Toledo that specializes in thin wood panels to see if I can get some 1/4" figured cherry for the panels and practice my veneering skills before I ruin some nice veneer.

My biggest problem is impatience. I hate letting a project sit while I wait for supplies, but better that than rush and ruin a piece.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


Well, the HeatLock is certainly formulated specifically for the task, but I have only used the Titebond II.

The directions listed on the HeatLock are just the way that I do it except that I use the Titebond II.

You are correct about using a piece wide enough to avoid creating a seam.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


I have plenty of Titebond II lying-around, so I might give that a try with some test pieces just for the experience. I've always wanted to make one of those nice little boxes with the beautiful veneer. This might be a good opportunity, and if I screw-up it's just a small piece of veneer.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


It's easier than you think.


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## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


Looks good. I look forward to seeing the finished product.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


This is looking pretty good. The finished piece is going to be well worth the effort.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Progress report*
> 
> I've got most of the pieces cut and I'm starting to put the table together. In the first picture I've got the apron attached to the legs with pocket screws. I've put the table on the top to mark where the legs meet the top so I can notch the corners. You'll notice the grain orientation on the aprons is less than ideal. These pieces are hidden, so I used some scrap with the grain running the wrong way.
> 
> ...


Lookin' good so far!


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

*Holding pattern*

I'm basically waiting now for some 1/4" curly cherry panels to arrive, so I'm doing what I can at this point.

The top is separate so I figured I'd go ahead and get it together and finished. Here you can see the edging glued to the plywood lid. I attached it with biscuits so as not to show any pocket hole screws underneath.










Here is the completed and finished lid. I applied a dyed de-waxed shellac and then coated it with three coats of water-based polyurethane.










Here I've applied shellac to the bottom and sides of the lower section pieces. For the sake of assembly these have to wait until the decorative side panels are installed.










I've also applied finish to what I can of the table itself. I applied iron-on oak edging to the exposed plywood edges of the interior cutout.










I'll be notching the panel frames to accept the 1/4 curly cherry inserts and apply the finish to those as well while I'm waiting. Depending on when they get the panels cut I may get them by the end of the week. I'm getting them from a great company in Toledo called KenCraft. They were extremely helpful and we emailed back and forth on what kind of wood would look good for an insert for the table. Apparently they can cut panels as thin as 1/16". It's hard to find a company willing to work with a hobbyist or to accept small orders, so I highly recommend them. If I'm not allowed to plug their website here someone let me know and I'll remove the link.

http://www.kencraftcompany.com/about.htm


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *Holding pattern*
> 
> I'm basically waiting now for some 1/4" curly cherry panels to arrive, so I'm doing what I can at this point.
> 
> ...


looking great. i can't wait to see it with the curly maple! thanks for the post.


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## mac2000 (Jun 17, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *Holding pattern*
> 
> I'm basically waiting now for some 1/4" curly cherry panels to arrive, so I'm doing what I can at this point.
> 
> ...


The table is much differ from other.
Because the table have layers.
The handcrafters will make this in new way.
It will be public behind the peoples.
===================
mac
Compare Prices & Save on Kitchenware 
Kitchenware


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Holding pattern*
> 
> I'm basically waiting now for some 1/4" curly cherry panels to arrive, so I'm doing what I can at this point.
> 
> ...


Greg,

This is looking pretty good so far. You are making excellent progress.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

*Looking for finish suggestion*

My curly cherry arrive today. Again, I can't recommend the good people at http://www.kencraftcompany.com enough. I asked for a little extra to try some finish work on and they threw some in at no charge. Anyway, the initial though was to go with a dark finish on the inserts to contrast the lighter oak. The cherry is so pretty I'm not sure I don't go with a lighter finish to highlight the figure. Having not worked with any figured wood before, I'm looking for suggestions.

Here are a couple pics of the panels with the frames around them. Obviously the panels will need to be cut to fit. The frame is supposed to be stained the same as the rest of the table with a dyed de-waxed shellac.



















Here I've put a piece on the finished to to show you what it will be going with.










Let me know what you think.

Thanks!

Greg


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Looking for finish suggestion*
> 
> My curly cherry arrive today. Again, I can't recommend the good people at http://www.kencraftcompany.com enough. I asked for a little extra to try some finish work on and they threw some in at no charge. Anyway, the initial though was to go with a dark finish on the inserts to contrast the lighter oak. The cherry is so pretty I'm not sure I don't go with a lighter finish to highlight the figure. Having not worked with any figured wood before, I'm looking for suggestions.
> 
> ...


All the cherry pieces that I have made turned quite dark on their own. That is a dark reddish-brown, very gorgeous. You might want to keep that in mind. The color will change quite a bit in 6 months and then a year. You might want to keep that in mind. I have just counted on the natural color change to do it's own work to create the contrast that I want.

If you want to push the color change, set the boards out in front of the shop in the sun. You will be surprised how much it can change in an afternoon. A great experiment to perform is to place a board in the sun with part of it covered. Leave it out for an afternoon or the day and when you bring it in, uncover the other half and see the difference. You will be amazed.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Looking for finish suggestion*
> 
> My curly cherry arrive today. Again, I can't recommend the good people at http://www.kencraftcompany.com enough. I asked for a little extra to try some finish work on and they threw some in at no charge. Anyway, the initial though was to go with a dark finish on the inserts to contrast the lighter oak. The cherry is so pretty I'm not sure I don't go with a lighter finish to highlight the figure. Having not worked with any figured wood before, I'm looking for suggestions.
> 
> ...


I've been searching for finishing suggestions and everyone pretty-much says the same about it darkening on its own. A common suggestion is to use tung oil or danish oil on it to bring-out the figure. I'll try sticking one of the scrap pieces in the sun tomorrow and get some danish oil to see how it looks on the scrap. I think you're right about letting it darken naturally and I'll probably be keeping the finish mostly clear.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Looking for finish suggestion*
> 
> My curly cherry arrive today. Again, I can't recommend the good people at http://www.kencraftcompany.com enough. I asked for a little extra to try some finish work on and they threw some in at no charge. Anyway, the initial though was to go with a dark finish on the inserts to contrast the lighter oak. The cherry is so pretty I'm not sure I don't go with a lighter finish to highlight the figure. Having not worked with any figured wood before, I'm looking for suggestions.
> 
> ...


Yes, the oil will help the grain to "pop", but so will the shellac. The clear lacquer finishes I use make the curly figure pop.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Looking for finish suggestion*
> 
> My curly cherry arrive today. Again, I can't recommend the good people at http://www.kencraftcompany.com enough. I asked for a little extra to try some finish work on and they threw some in at no charge. Anyway, the initial though was to go with a dark finish on the inserts to contrast the lighter oak. The cherry is so pretty I'm not sure I don't go with a lighter finish to highlight the figure. Having not worked with any figured wood before, I'm looking for suggestions.
> 
> ...


I can't argue with Pat that poly is great.

The products that I use are because of my professional needs and pre-catalyzed lacquers dry fast, 3 coats in an hour, and I get FANTASTIC results. You may be limited to a wipe-on or brush-on depending on your situation.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Looking for finish suggestion*
> 
> My curly cherry arrive today. Again, I can't recommend the good people at http://www.kencraftcompany.com enough. I asked for a little extra to try some finish work on and they threw some in at no charge. Anyway, the initial though was to go with a dark finish on the inserts to contrast the lighter oak. The cherry is so pretty I'm not sure I don't go with a lighter finish to highlight the figure. Having not worked with any figured wood before, I'm looking for suggestions.
> 
> ...


Right now I'm trying Formby's "Tung Oil" which is actually a wiping varnish partially made from tung oil. It looks good so far, but I'll know more after a couple coats. I put one of the scrap pieces in a window all morning and there is a noticeable darkening of the wood already.

The pre-catalyzed lacquers are definitely beyond me currently. I don't have the spray equipment, and I need to apply a finish so seldom the pre-catalyzed stuff would go to waste. You can mix your own, but then you need to be very precise in proportions and still need the spray equipment. They do provide superior fast-drying finishes, so maybe in the future I can try some of the post-catalyzed stuff when I get a sprayer.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

*Final Assembly*

Lots of pictures for this final update, so here goes!

I went ahead and finished the side panel frame and partially assembled them. I left one side off so I could slide the finished panels in and glue them together.










For the cherry side panels I finished them with about 9 coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish which is essentially just a wiping varnish. In hindsight I was probably wiping them on too thin to begin with, since they dried very quickly between coats. I applied the first several coats using paper towels and small pieces of t-shirt material. I would use 0000 steel wool between coats, and at about 7 coats (the stage I was at when I took this picture) I wasn't getting the sheen I wanted so I tried something I read online. I wet-sanded the panels with 600 grit automotive sandpaper. This smoothed them out very well, but obviously dulled the finish. I then buffed the panels with rubbing compound and a buffer, which eliminated the scratches but still left them with a dull sheen.

Not satisfied with the appearance, I followed another suggestion and took a large piece of cotton material and formed a fairly substantial 3×3 square. After saturating it with finish, I wiped a much thicker (but not too thick) coat across the panels. After drying this provided a much glossier (and smoother) finish than I was achieving earlier with the thinner coats, but I still had a couple dull spots. One more coat and I was pleased with the look. So, if you decide to use Formby's Tung Oil Finish I'd ignore the advice on the back to apply very thin coats like an automotive wax (except maybe for the first few coats to soak the wood) and apply a thicker coat with the grain. I could have probably got the same finish in 5 coats or possibly less.










After the panels dried I went ahead and glued and clamped the panels and frames together.


















I then started attaching the frames to the table. The shorter sides were attached at the top with three pocket hole screws I had drilled into the top before attaching it to the table. I then drilled a hole through the apron on each side and attached an 1 1/4" screw to hold the sides of the panel in place.










The larger panels were slightly more problematic. Due to the large hole cutout, I couldn't use pocket holes in the middle to attach the panels since the cutouts for the holes would have been visible. I had a pocket hole on either side of the cutout, but that left the center without being firmly attached to the table.










I had thought about drilling through the edge banding of the cutout and attaching a deep screw and then plugging the hole. Fortunately, I thought some more and realized there was enough depth on the frame for me to drill a hole through the apron very close to (and partially through) the top and use an 1 1/4" screw to attach the center of the panel to the skirting.










With the side panels in place I could finish assembly on the table. I started by attaching a side for bottom box that holds the lift mechanism. Here you can also see the 1/4" oak plywood panels I used to cover the pocket hole screws in the skirting I used to attach the top. I added a coat of shellac to the exposed underside of the top in front of the plywood panels that is still unfinished in this picture.










I then coated both the 1/4" plywood panels with glue and clamped them to the skirting.


















After attaching the other side I added the bottom. I attached it at the top and bottom using pocket holes into the skirting and on the side using regular 1 1/2" wood screws.










A coat of shellac on the exposed surfaces is applied for the sake of appearance. Incidentally, I love shellac. The Bullseye de-waxed shellac tints very easily, and while too thick for wiping out of the can if you thin the mixture with denatured alcohol you can just wipe the finish on and get great results.










Finished base ready for the lift mechanism to be installed.










I attached the lift to the bottom first. While there were no instructions to speak of, installation was pretty-obvious. The frame is 3/4" thick with beveled screw holes on the sides for attaching wood screws. I aligned the lift in the hole and marked the screw locations with a transfer punch. Remove the lift, pre-drill the holes, and then attach the lift with 1 1/4" wood screws.










After that, I placed the table top on the lift, aligned the top, and repeated the punch and drill operation. Probably the easiest part of the whole operation




























A fun project and I tried several new things I hadn't had any experience with before:

1. Using shellac and tinting and thinning the finish.
2. Using a wiping varnish.
3. Resawing, jointing, and planing rough wood to size.
4. Working with and finishing figured wood.
5. Building a traditional table using table legs and skirting (everything else I've built has been essentially a box).

While there are things I would go back and change and do differently if I could, I am overall pleased with the results and can take my lessons learned to my next project.

If you're interested you can get my Sketchup files for this table here:

http://cid-258899c12334cc4d.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Lift%20Coffee%20Table


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gwurst said:


> *Final Assembly*
> 
> Lots of pictures for this final update, so here goes!
> 
> ...


Looks like you pulled off a nice one here. I really enjoy seeing the progress photos and list of "firsts." 
Great work on this project!


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## woodworkersguide (Mar 7, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *Final Assembly*
> 
> Lots of pictures for this final update, so here goes!
> 
> ...


And pleased you should be! Great job! Thanks for the SketchUp files!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

gwurst said:


> *Final Assembly*
> 
> Lots of pictures for this final update, so here goes!
> 
> ...


wow that came out great! thanks for the post!


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## Keyser_Soze (Feb 5, 2014)

gwurst said:


> *Final Assembly*
> 
> Lots of pictures for this final update, so here goes!
> 
> ...


Love your posts, you're adding quite handily to my to-do list. First the tablesaw cabinet, then this for sure.


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