# Table Saw Upgrade



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*Pickup and Carry Down*

Picked up a 5HP Powermatic 66 and a Rockwell Unisaw (with vintage Biesemeyer fences) last weekend. I am keeping the Powermatic and will be restoring it.

*Unisaw*:










*Powermatic 66 (with a 65 Mustang)*










I stripped the 66 down and carried the components down into my basement. I was a pain-in-the-... getting the cabinet down. Luckily I have a exterior cement staircase and a good hand truck.



















The Powermatic has what looks like a fairly new 3 phase Baldor motor in it. It cant be more than a year old. I am looking to replace it with a single phase motor.


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Pickup and Carry Down*
> 
> Picked up a 5HP Powermatic 66 and a Rockwell Unisaw (with vintage Biesemeyer fences) last weekend. I am keeping the Powermatic and will be restoring it.
> 
> ...


Nice Haul!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Pickup and Carry Down*
> 
> Picked up a 5HP Powermatic 66 and a Rockwell Unisaw (with vintage Biesemeyer fences) last weekend. I am keeping the Powermatic and will be restoring it.
> 
> ...


Amen. Good score. It'll be fun watching you breathe new life into these !


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*Strip, Prime, Paint*

This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")

I still need to finish up some of the paint on the edges of the top, mount the fence rails, attach the starter controls, polish the top, and then of course-get everything perfectly square and parallel.

I still have not painted the rectangular tube that the fence slides on. I sanded it down and polished it up that it almost looks like chrome.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Strip, Prime, Paint*
> 
> This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")
> 
> ...


Looks good to me. I'll be around for the finish.


----------



## Dustin (Dec 14, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Strip, Prime, Paint*
> 
> This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")
> 
> ...


oh pretty


----------



## Rob200 (Sep 21, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Strip, Prime, Paint*
> 
> This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")
> 
> ...


it look better then new


----------



## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Strip, Prime, Paint*
> 
> This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")
> 
> ...


Looks great! What did you use to paint it? What are your plans with the Unisaw?
btw: i live on LI too..


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Strip, Prime, Paint*
> 
> This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")
> 
> ...


Chuck: I used metallic gold Rust-oleum that I picked up at my HD. I was going to have the paint color matched at a body shop-but then i reminded myself that this is a saw (and as my dad pointed out to me last night, there are no "Classic Saw Shows". Although it would be really funny to see a Mecum style event with vintage power tools rolling up on stage.)

I am going to clean up the Unisaw and then sell it. The guy who sold it to me needed in out of his shop and practically gave it to me for less than its worth in scrap metal. I probably wont even need to clean it up to turn a profit on it.

And for LI: Whereabouts? You should join the Long Island Woodworkers Club. We meet once a month in Smithtown.


----------



## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Strip, Prime, Paint*
> 
> This weekend I decided to strip the Powermatic 66 and the 2 Beisemeyer fence systems and prime and paint them. I was hoping to keep the stripes on the saw, but the decals were tool badly damaged and I do not have the time to paint new ones on. I also was not able to match the original color, but I came "close". (I keep telling myself, "It is a saw, not your 65 Mustang,")
> 
> ...


It came out great..
I live in Farmingdale. I spoke to a few guys in that club when I went to the woodworking show in Old Bethpage. I've been tempted to join, maybe one day I will…


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*On the Fence and Need Some Help*

I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.

I do not want to purchase the Beisemeyer replacement face. They are too expensive and there is just something fundamentally wrong with a woodworker paying 70 dollars for a 3×42 piece of laminated ply. I have come up with the following options, but am not sure which is the best choice:


Laminated Plywood (1/2 inch?, 3/4 inch?, not sure which species)
UHMW Polyethylene: I am not sure how flat this is and how to attach this to the T-Square body
MDF or Laminated MDF (1/2 inch?, 3/4 inch?)
Phenolic ??
Something else ???

*UHMW Polyethylene*

I have a sheet of UHMW that I purchased and it is cupped, bowed and twisted. I was going to see if I could glue this somehow to a piece of MDF or Ply, but the gluing process seems a bit too complicated with this material. I was going to try screwing it from the backside, but because it is so warped, I do not think that this option would be good for a fence.

*Laminating the Ply or MDF*

Then for my choice of laminates, I was wondering if anyone has ever used Formica's Micro-dot laminate. It is the same one that Kreg uses on its router table. I also have no experience in laminating with anything other than wood, so I am not sure what else is out there.

I feel that I am in a good position to experiment here. I have 2 T-Squares for the saw, so I could implement 2 options and see which one I like. I could also build out one square as an auxiliary fence and make it so that I could easily attach jigs, guides and sacrificial fences to it.

If anyone has any experience with this, or could point me to some resources I would be very grateful for your help.

Now onto the next question: When I am done, do I get a Powermatic or a Biesemeyer decal for the top of the fence?


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *On the Fence and Need Some Help*
> 
> I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.
> 
> ...


I have UHMW on one of my fences and it's straight, but ply I think would be better cuz you can make it higher and put a T-track in it. Heres a pic of it.
http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab120/icomba/bigdaddiesshoppics004.jpg


----------



## bigpops0259 (Jan 15, 2007)

MikeGCNY said:


> *On the Fence and Need Some Help*
> 
> I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.
> 
> ...


I used ABS plastic, check out the pic in my projects page on table saw. There is a guy here in cleveland ohio on Craigslist, that sell ABS plastic Sheets. I use them for many jigs and such. Another thought is Old counter top material, laminate your own.


----------



## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

MikeGCNY said:


> *On the Fence and Need Some Help*
> 
> I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike,
You know what looks cool is 1/2" Baltic birch plywood with Formica laminate. Slightly arch the exposed edges and varnish them. MDF has to be veneered on all sides, more weight and more work.

Don't T slots require 3/4" mat.? It sounds like a good idea but I've never needed this feature yet. 
I guess if I was making the same cut on 500 ft. of wood, a feather board on top would be good. You could just clamp one on too.

It's a matter of personal preference in the end. You could make 2 and have both options.

It's a BEISEMEYER fence, and so a proper sticker would be the same. right?

"cupped, bowed and twisted".....nice firewood.


----------



## sawdustphill (Jan 13, 2011)

MikeGCNY said:


> *On the Fence and Need Some Help*
> 
> I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike 
your best bet would be 1/2" phenolic plywood. this stuff is slick, is stable, and stays very flat.
it makes good jig and fence material, however it is hard to get a drill bit started in it because 
it is so hard and slick. That uhmw is not alwas flat and is hard to shim, I found this out on my accu fence
powermatic's clone of the biesemeyer.


----------



## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *On the Fence and Need Some Help*
> 
> I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.
> 
> ...


I used laminated plywood with formica for mine .It has held up well and I also mounted a T -track on top. It seems very stable dimensionly.


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *On the Fence and Need Some Help*
> 
> I spent a few hours last night disassembling the 2 Biesemeyer T-Squares and removing the laminated plywood faces. Besides a nasty splinter in my thumb, the process left me with a bigger problem: How to re-face the T-Squares.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all your tips. I am still not sure what I am going to do, but will be experimenting this weekend.


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*

So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.

As many of you know from reading other posting on Lumberjocks, there are several options to consider when your shop simply has single phase power and your machinery requires 3 phase power. The first of these options is to replace your motor all together with a new (or used) single phase motor. Because the motor in my Powermatic was so new, and because it was 5 horsepower, I could not bring myself to replace it with a 3 horse motor. I could have replaced it with a single phase 5 horsepower motor, but because the cost is so high I would be better off buying a brand new saw. This being said, I opted to keep the saw and its motor and to figure out a way to power it with single phase current.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Many of you will ask: "Mike, why do you need a 5 horsepower table saw?" My answer: "I don't! It is just the principle of it."

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Now before I begin here, I must admit that I am a Computer Scientist, not an Electrical Engineer, so forgive me if I don't have all of the facts straight or 100% correct. I did my best over the past week to evaluate the options and to come to a decision that was right for me. What follows are some of my findings that led me to my decision.

If you would like to power a three phase motor off of a single phase power source, you have the following options:


Static Phase Converter
Rotary Phase Converter
Variable Frequency Drive (or AC Drive)

*Static Phase Converter*

A static phase converter is a low cost method to power a 3 phase motor on a single phase power source. A static converter is essentially a "battery" that stores up electricity that is used to power the 3rd phase of the motor. Because it stores electrical energy, it can only deliver power for a short period of time, and thus is only used to get the electric motor turning. Once spinning, the "battery" is drained of its power and stops supplying power to the third phase. For this reason, if you choose to employ a static phase converter you will only be leveraging 2/3rds of the power of your motor.

A good way to view a static phase converter is to think of a human propelled merry-go-round in a park. Picture three adults standing around the merry go round while it is stationary; each adult represents a phase, where the third adult represents the phase supplied by the static converter. Now picture all three adults grabbing the bars of the ride and then spinning in. Once they get it going the third adult runs away to take care of something else and only two adults are left spinning the ride. This is essentially what happens when you use a static phase converter to "spin" your motor.

With this disadvantage you might wonder why someone would ever use a static converter. Price. A static phase converter is the most economical way to power a piece of equipment that requires three phase power where the operator is not concerned with horsepower loss. (Note: In recent years, Variable Frequency Drives have come down in price, making it less economically attractive to run static phase converters. We will learn about this more later.)

*Rotary Phase Converter*

A rotary phase converter (RPC) is essentially a 3 phase electric motor that is used to generate a third phase of electricity. You can think of it as an "electric powered electric generator". Rotary phase converters are great because when sized correctly, they allow you to power your equipment on 3 phase power with no horsepower loss.

So what is the down-side? Price. Because rotary phase converters often require a larger horsepower motor than the motor you are powering, they can get expensive. Additionally, rotary phase converters are very heavy (I almost bought a used 7.5 horsepower unit that weighed 270 pounds) they present a bit of a shipping challenge when you are buying them from a remotely located vendor (although I must admit, I found a couple of vendors who offered free shipping).

If you plan on purchasing or already have more than one machine that requires 3 phase power, a rotary phase converter might be a good option for you because, if sized correctly, you can run multiple machines off of a single RPC. You might not be able to start all of the machines simultaneously, but if that is your requirement you are most likely not a hobbyist.

*Variable Frequency Drive*

A variable frequency drive (VFD), or AC Drive, utilizes electronics to convert single phase power into three phase power and deliver this power to your motor with no power loss. VFDs control the frequency of the electricity that is being delivered to your motor, thus allowing you to soft start your motor and to precisely control the speed of your motor's rotation. With this also comes the ability to electrically stop your motor. Although you would probably not want your TS to stop spinning on a dime, you may choose to have the VFD stop the blade from spinning within 2 seconds of hitting the "Stop" control.

So what is the down-side? VFDs require a bit more skill to setup and program for your particular need. In addition, VFDs with single phase input can get pricey - especially when you are powering motors with horsepower ratings greater than 3.

VFDs also require that they are wired to the motor directly, so you will need to implement some sort of "On/Off" switch. Most VFDs have switches, but they are tiny buttons similar to the ones that are on a electronic thermostat. Now I don't know about you, but when I am balancing a sheet of ply and need to start my saw the last thing I want is a tiny "on" button. When the ply goes through the blade the last thing I want to do is to have to look for an "off" button.

*My Choice Was…*

After a dozen or so hours of searching online and calling vendors for both RPCs and VFDs, I decided to go with a VFD. I did find a 7.5 hp RPC in Manhattan on Craigslist that I talked the guy down to $500.00 for, but it was very large and I don't imagine that I will be buying much more 3 phase equipment.

I was able to get a VFD for $200.00 from an online retailer. I simply called them and explained my situation and told them what I was looking for. The salesman that I talked with was a great guy and gave me a great price on the unit.

My decision to use a VFD was based off of the following:


Price: For me, a $200.00 VFD seemed very reasonable. (One alternative was to replace the motor with a single phase Leeson that I found new for $300.00 w/o shipping.)
My Dad is an Electrician: Because my dad and a close family friend are electricians, my labor costs are basically nothing (well, maybe a Pizza). Because they are both master electricians (and my dad is also an Electrical Engineer), I can be sure that they will hookup the VFD correctly.
I wanted to keep the existing motor. My dad keeps telling me "You want 3 phase for machines that big, trust me!"

So I hope whoever reads this finds it helpful. Again I am not an Electrical Engineer or an electrician so for those that are, please don't beat me up as to the validity of my comments (I know there are some exceptions to what I said above). Before you purchase any equipment, be sure you consult with whatever vendor for whatever solution you decide and make sure that your particular piece of machinery will work with their product. As a tip, have a picture of your motor plate handy to read to them over the phone, or as I did, to email to them.

And remember, if you are uncomfortable with electricity hire a professional.


----------



## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*
> 
> So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.
> 
> ...


Nice saw, hope it works out for you.


----------



## mcase (Oct 31, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*
> 
> So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.
> 
> ...


Mike,

Thanks for the logical and detailed explanation. Looks like a great machine you got there.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*
> 
> So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.
> 
> ...


Mike thats a nice saw.


----------



## sawdustphill (Jan 13, 2011)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*
> 
> So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.
> 
> ...


Mike thanks for the info on the the 3 phase converters 
and a nice saw hope it works out for you

Phillip


----------



## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*
> 
> So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.
> 
> ...


Hello, where did you get the VFD from?
I am restoring a vintage Wadkin Bursgreen AGS10 table saw(I have a blog about it) and the motor is three phase.
I know a couple of websites, I'd just like to add a couple more fish to the pond.
Thanks.

Your saw is beautiful.


----------



## boiler13 (Mar 5, 2012)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Powering a 5HP Monster with Single Phase Power*
> 
> So, just as I suspected, the 66 came with a fairly new 5 horse 3 phase Baldor motor. (Yeah Me!) I was able to figure this out by calling Baldor's customer service and reading them through the different numbers on the motor plate. As it turns out, the motor is only 2 years old. The saw is 22.
> 
> ...


Very helpful article. I bought an old Clausing (Kalamazoo/Atlas) 3110 at auction for $200. The scrap is worth more  I went with a static converter and it's sorry. I've never cut on something so true and stable but when I need to rip maple into long strips (make custom alphabet blocks w/ a cnc) it bogs down and stops. I end up with about 8 1/4" cuts over and over to get one stick cut.

Follow Mikes advice and spend another 150 to get the VFD and not a static converter. I'm still weighing this vs a new single phase motor.

Jim


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*Putting it Back Together*

I spent some time this weekend finishing up the paint and putting the saw back together. I will take some more photos with my SLR (I took these with my phone and the quality is not so great) and post later in the week when I make some more progress.

*Biesemeyer Fence*

Here is the Biesemeyer T-Square getting its paint:










Here are the fence rails getting their paint:










*My Daughter Olivia with the Powermatic 66*

She can't wait until it is done because we are going to build a few bird houses.










Here she is again. When my dad and I rewire the basement next weekend we are going to put all of the tool outlets on a separate panel that I will be able to lock. The last thing I want is my daughter using this equipment when I am not around.










*Almost Done*



















-------------------------------------------------------------------
*Before*

I should have take more pics of it before I started.


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Putting it Back Together*
> 
> I spent some time this weekend finishing up the paint and putting the saw back together. I will take some more photos with my SLR (I took these with my phone and the quality is not so great) and post later in the week when I make some more progress.
> 
> ...


She a beauty and the saw not bad either…BC


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Putting it Back Together*
> 
> I spent some time this weekend finishing up the paint and putting the saw back together. I will take some more photos with my SLR (I took these with my phone and the quality is not so great) and post later in the week when I make some more progress.
> 
> ...


I'll make you a package deal for both. Two new shiny quarters, cash, right now! lol


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Putting it Back Together*
> 
> I spent some time this weekend finishing up the paint and putting the saw back together. I will take some more photos with my SLR (I took these with my phone and the quality is not so great) and post later in the week when I make some more progress.
> 
> ...


looking good. Good looking paint job to.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Putting it Back Together*
> 
> I spent some time this weekend finishing up the paint and putting the saw back together. I will take some more photos with my SLR (I took these with my phone and the quality is not so great) and post later in the week when I make some more progress.
> 
> ...


Wow, your wife sure is small.


----------



## Pop (Aug 6, 2007)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Putting it Back Together*
> 
> I spent some time this weekend finishing up the paint and putting the saw back together. I will take some more photos with my SLR (I took these with my phone and the quality is not so great) and post later in the week when I make some more progress.
> 
> ...


I'm just now starting my 8 year old granddaughter on the scroll saw. She can make jig saw puzzles in nothing flat. Strange looking jig saw puzzles, but grandpa says they're jig saw puzzle, and BY GOLLY ! They're jig saw puzzles. 
Kids in the shop are fun. You've just got to keep your eye on 'em.

Pop


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*VFD Soft Start in Action*

I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.

*Video*






*Here is the VFD and Disconnect*










*The Saw*
Here is a picture of the saw with the re-surfaced Beisemeyer Fence. I used a sheet of 3/16 UHMW Polyethylene laminate.










I cannot believe the cost of the wiring. For this and my band saw I spent close to 400 dollars on wire and breakers.


----------



## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


Mike, that saw is a beast!


----------



## ken_c (Sep 28, 2009)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


will that saw motor stand up the the VFD? Are you just using for a soft start/ soft stop application but running at full speed? I hope so because the motor in your saw is fan cooled. The fan will not be able to properly cool the motor if you are running at reduced speeds. They make special motors for VFD use and not all motors are designed to operate, very long, at reduced speeds and reduced frequencies.


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


Ken, it runs at reduced speed for about 3 seconds, then it comes up to the full 60 Hz. In the video you can see the control panel displaying the frequency. I ran it for a few hours yesterday through a few dozen start and stoa and there was almost no heat at the VFD or the motor.


----------



## kshipp (Jan 21, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


I really like that 3 second brake. I just got a VFD to put on my dust collector but only really for phase conversion. I can really see the benefit to one on a table saw now.


----------



## DaveMonti (Nov 23, 2014)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


Hello MikeGCNY,
I'm in the same boat as you are. I bought a used PM66 with a 5 HP three phase motor. It came with a static phase converter that just won't start the motor. It turns the motor for about 5 seconds at low speed then kicks out. 
I replaced some of the components on the phase converter, but have decided to either buy the 3 HP single phase motor (at about $700 off Amazon) or install a 5 HP VFD. I do not want to deal with a rotary phase converter with an idler motor. 
Can you let me know what specific VFD you bought? I realize your saw may be a 3 HP, but I'd like to start to get some pricing.
I just started on this website and I have to post 5 times before I can send any PMs or I would have done that.
Thanks!
Dave


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave

I got a used one. I think it is called TB Woods, or something like that. I got it from Southland Electric Supply.

Mine is 5HP.

Mike


----------



## mdn125 (Jan 6, 2013)

MikeGCNY said:


> *VFD Soft Start in Action*
> 
> I finished wiring the Variable Frequency Drive this weekend. I made a video of the VFD in action.
> 
> ...


So I recently acquired a Unisaw with a 3HP motor. I'm looking at going with a vfd rather than installing a single phase motor.

You've been using the vfd for a little while now, any issues?


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*Alignment and New Blade*

I finished aligning the saw this weekend and built some cabinets with it. I replaced the Amana blade that I had on this saw with a Ridge Carbide TS2000. All I can saw is "WOW!" I like this blade even better than the WW II that I had on my contractor saw.

I made a little video of the new blade in action.


----------



## mwm5053 (Feb 27, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Alignment and New Blade*
> 
> I finished aligning the saw this weekend and built some cabinets with it. I replaced the Amana blade that I had on this saw with a Ridge Carbide TS2000. All I can saw is "WOW!" I like this blade even better than the WW II that I had on my contractor saw.
> 
> I made a little video of the new blade in action.


That is a pretty sweet blade for sure.


----------



## DrSteve (Aug 7, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Alignment and New Blade*
> 
> I finished aligning the saw this weekend and built some cabinets with it. I replaced the Amana blade that I had on this saw with a Ridge Carbide TS2000. All I can saw is "WOW!" I like this blade even better than the WW II that I had on my contractor saw.
> 
> I made a little video of the new blade in action.


I have an Ridge Carbide as well and love it. Sent them some blades to sharpen last year and they were phenomenal. Looks good for you too


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Alignment and New Blade*
> 
> I finished aligning the saw this weekend and built some cabinets with it. I replaced the Amana blade that I had on this saw with a Ridge Carbide TS2000. All I can saw is "WOW!" I like this blade even better than the WW II that I had on my contractor saw.
> 
> I made a little video of the new blade in action.


I've been a fan since 1980, in my opinion one of the best keep secrets in the blade world. Now that you have one try and wear this one out, good luck it's a warrior. Enjoy BC


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*The First Fence*

This is the first of my 2 Biesemeyer fences that I am restoring. For this one, I purchases some UHMW polyethylene from McMaster-Carr. I used a 1/2 inch forstner bit to drill out the countersinks and then screwed the material to the fence using the original screws. I then spent close to 3 hours shimming the back of the fence so it is flat to about 0.004. I am not sure what the factory tolerances are on a Biesmeyer.

The fence is now very slick and is great to use. With this and the 5 hp motor on the saw, there is almost no resistance when cutting. A huge upgrade from my last saw.

On the right side of the fence I just used some 1/2 inch ply. I might laminate it, although I don't think that I will ever use that side of the fence.


----------



## Robb (Aug 18, 2007)

MikeGCNY said:


> *The First Fence*
> 
> This is the first of my 2 Biesemeyer fences that I am restoring. For this one, I purchases some UHMW polyethylene from McMaster-Carr. I used a 1/2 inch forstner bit to drill out the countersinks and then screwed the material to the fence using the original screws. I then spent close to 3 hours shimming the back of the fence so it is flat to about 0.004. I am not sure what the factory tolerances are on a Biesmeyer.
> 
> ...


What a beauty! Serious fence envy, here . I'm still using the junky stock one that came with my Jet. It never stays aligned for long. One day, I'd like to have something like you have there. Good job on the restoration - your patience will pay you many dividends.


----------



## MikeGCNY (Oct 30, 2008)

*Mini Outfeed and Extension Table*

I built the extension and a mini outfeed table today. I used all left over ply and hardboard and finished it off with a few coats of poly.

I built the mini outfeed table so that the fence has a consistent surface to run across from right to left. Without this, it would ride on cast iron and hardboard; now it just rides on hardboard.

The outfeed table that I am building will be on casters and will latch onto the mini outfeed table with some rubber latches.


----------



## AttainableApex (Aug 24, 2010)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Mini Outfeed and Extension Table*
> 
> I built the extension and a mini outfeed table today. I used all left over ply and hardboard and finished it off with a few coats of poly.
> 
> ...


thats some shinny hard board, looks like something else


----------



## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

MikeGCNY said:


> *Mini Outfeed and Extension Table*
> 
> I built the extension and a mini outfeed table today. I used all left over ply and hardboard and finished it off with a few coats of poly.
> 
> ...


Wow..makes me want to go poly all the hardboard in my shop! Nice tables…


----------

