# mdf vs plywood for cabinet bases?



## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

I am starting a kitchen project and am considering using mdf for the lower cabinet sides/top/bottom. These cabinets will be a frameless construction and will be composed entirely of drawers, no doors to look inside. They will be edged with 3/8" solid wood. I am aware of the problems with mdf (weight, dust, moisture) but I like its stability (and cost). From what I have read there appears to be a lot going for mdf in this application but I keep wondering if I should invest in the plywood or is it a toss up?
I would appreciate any insights more experienced individuals are willing to share.
Thanks,
Bill


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I wouldn't do it for two reasons. First is the weight. Second is that it is hard to get screws to hold without splitting the mdf. Use the plywood. Your back will be happier.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

I would not suggest MDF for frameless cabinets, the weight will cause sagging over time. Any cabinet that can get wet should be ply instead of MDF also.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Ditto and ditto


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

For the best of both worlds consider a Classic Core plywood. It is medium weight with the stability and paintability of MDF with the screw staying power of plywood.
It is a little more $$$ but well worth it for a good project.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Not bad - $40 for 3/4 inch plywood.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sande-Plywood-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-709-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-454559/100037820

3/4 inch mdf.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/MDF-Panel-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-750-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-988547/206512588

For the $10 dollar difference, it is a no brainer for me.

BTW, I hate mdf, and the dust it rode in on.

Good luck with your build.
Post some pics. We like pics.
Mike


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

If cost is your main concern, we all face challenges, use pine plywood and build in place. The cabinets in my house were all built in place of pine plywood in 1960, painted, and remained strong until I bought the house and started replacing them almost 40 years later. John Heisz on youtube just built all new kitchen cabinets of pine and they look great. Building in place will save dollars as it takes less material. Some people are unfamiliar with built in place cabinetry, what it means is you don't build boxes and screw them to the wall, instead the wall becomes part of the structure and you build off it. Unfortunately I don't have a web reference and you may have to go to the library and look up an older cabinetry book. It was the standard way of building cabinetry before mass production.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

guess you got your answer ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
all are correct *USE PLYWOOD* :<))


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## Bob Collins (Apr 25, 2008)

Agree with all above, I would use Plywood every time.


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## kocgolf (Jun 8, 2012)

MDF or Melamine only for occasional shop projects, but for anything I really care about, definitely ply. HD has a nice PureBond brand that I have used with great success and consistency. They claim it's better for you, no formaldehyde, but who knows. I know it works well.


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## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

Thanks for all the help and it looks like plywood wins. I appreciate all the links from Home Depot but the nearest HD to me is 30" one way. Sadly, the only store I have local is Menards. I was just on their website and the list a 7 ply D3 plywood. I'm not up on my plywood grading but for the cabinets that will not be seen it seems the D3 will be fine. Here is the link http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-panels/3-4-x-4-x-8-d3-natural-maple-veneer-core-plywood/p-1444445025105-c-13334.htm?tid=7958673062394043621&bargainStoreId=3177. 
The other item I was considering was using a pre finished birch plywood and am curious what your thoughts are.
Thanks again.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I much prefer menards plywood over any other store. MDO is a great choice too, but it's expensive. Prefinshed is a great choice too, but it can be difficult to glue to.


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## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

Would melamine glue work on prefinished panels?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I have no idea Bill. I've never used it. If your making cabinets though. You can use screws from the outside and they will never be seen


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Here ya go, Bill.
Plywood grades
http://www.ezwoodshop.com/plywood/plywood-grades.html

I looked at the Birch plywood I normally buy for shop cabinets and paint grade cabinets. It is designated C3.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-PureBond-Birch-Plywood-165921/100077837


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I say go for it. MDF and melamine are more
similar than different compared to plywood
and melamine is pretty standard for commercially
produced frameless cases.

The main drawback for the small shop is the
weight. Ultralight MDF is available but it doesn't
stay as flat… still it probably stays flatter than
ply as a rule.

Your small-shop frameless cases are probably
going to screw together a little out of square…
that's what the back is for, to shift the out 
of squareness to the rear so so front is square.

All said, though, ply being lighter I prefer working
with it to MDF and I suppose ply holds screws
a little better.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

regarding prefinshed ply: before I got set up
for confirmat screws I would use biscuits to
glue and line up prefinished ply cases, then
clamp with screws. It took a few extra
minutes per case to do it but the corners
came out flush so it was worth it. There are
other ways to make your case corners flush:
dowels, confirmats, predrilling both parts, 
tongue-and-groove, dado, etc.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

If you have any other option, I would suggest that you don't buy any plywood from Home Depot. The last Sande ply I tried to use had such a thin veneer that it was already sanded through in some places by the manufacturer. You can't count on it being flat or of uniform thickness either. A few years ago I bought some really expensive birch veneer plywood there to make a painted bookcase from. When I made the first rip cut, it exposed inner plies that were actually rotten. The material was unusable because of lack of structural integrity, even though the external veneer looked okay. Sometimes you can find good material there but it is a gamble. I think the company's buyers just choose the lowest priced manufacturer with little or no consideration of quality control. The quality is just random.

I am lucky to have a few good independent building supply and hardware stores close by that don't sell defective material. I value my time and would rather pay more for quality material so that my work turns out as good as I can make it.


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## DonSol (Dec 31, 2014)

I built my kitchen cabinets out of birch plywood from Menards about 12 years ago and they still look as good as when I put them in. Any edges that would show I rubbed painters caulk into the edge before painting the cabinets and that eliminated the wood strip on the edge. The guys that installed the countertop kept looking for that strip and wanted to know how I got the edges so smooth. You will find drawer glides a lot cheaper online than you will in a store. I put them on the bottom shelf of each top and bottom cabinet.


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

All wood is not created equal. The are "comercial grade levels" a,b,c ect… The material melamine and MDF, sold at big box stores are not the same, or say a lower grade than what I can choose at lumber supplier which caters to "professionals" and they stock all the grades. For eample, melemine, the choices are cold press, hot press and a product called Panolam. I use and standby Panolam- 24years and never an failure. 2" particle board screws spaced 8" center, solid construction (don't forget to predrill) Plywood, MDF and melemine will be negetively effected.


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