# Stickley #369 Morris Chair



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*

Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. 








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I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. Normally you could glue several layers of 3/4" lumber to yield the 2-3/8" leg stock, but in this case I started with solid 12/4 stock milled to 2-1/2" x 2-3/16", with thin veneers on two sides. This is to avoid seeing laminations on the through tenons that pierce the armrests. 








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I make the veneers 1/4" thick because they plane better than thinner strips. My planer can technically handle strips to 1/8" thick, but they often suffer tearout and snipe. So I avoid these problems by leaving the veneers thicker, and after the glueup they are planed down to 3/32" thick. 








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Here I am flush trimming the veneers at the router table. 








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After all four rough edges are trimmed flush, I head over to the planer to trim the legs to 2-3/8" square. Here is where carefully planning your leg blank size pays off. 








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Here you can see my reasoning for using 12/4 stock for the legs--> no visible joints in the end grain. 








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The legs are mortised for side rails and seat rails. I used a 3/8" hollow chisel, and made two passes. I suffered some bit deflection on the second pass, but keeping the mortise settings the same and making a third cleanup pass seemed to yield consistent results. All of the mortises in the legs are 5/8" wide. 








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The shoulders of the rear leg tenons are angled to 7 degrees. This is easily accomplished by using a dado blade and an angled miter gauge. Then switch back to a combination blade. With the blade angled to 7 degrees and the miter gauge square, you can complete the front and rear shoulder cuts. 








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I try to mill and rip all the stock for a project before switching to the dado blade. This minimizes the number of times I have to switch blades. The 8/4 stock is for the curved back slats. 








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Then I go about cutting the tenons with a dado blade and miter gauge. For the through tenons I sneak up on a perfect fit, always checking on the OUTSIDE of the mortise. Once the tenon just begins to fit into the mortise, I stop cutting. Just a little work with the chisel and sanding block will create good fitting joints. 








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Next I carefully layout the mortise locations for the 10 side slats, and 5 backrest slats. I gang the parts together for an accurate layout. I indicate the edge of the shoulder with a dashed line, and the mortise location with a solid line to avoid confusion. 








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I picked up some leather a while ago with this project in mind. 








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The leather is from Tandy Leather Factory, and is made by Terino Leathers in the "Montgomery Whiskey" color. 









Next up will be mortising for the side slats, and dry-fitting the side assemblies. 
Cheers!


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## johnhutchinson (Dec 9, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*
> 
> Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way.
> 
> ...


Are you publishing your work now, Willie? If not, you should be. I worked with Bob Lang for about three years, and your approach, text and step photos are up there with the best.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*
> 
> Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way.
> 
> ...


Cool man. I'd love to get some 12/4 stock, but haven't had much success. This is the same chair that's in my avatar pic if I'm not mistaken. Your gonna love it.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*
> 
> Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way.
> 
> ...


Yea, another build blog. I love these.
And Willie, you are such a joy to watch.

Great start and great stuff.
Steve


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*
> 
> Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way.
> 
> ...


I love these chairs, can't wait to see the completed piece


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*
> 
> Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way.
> 
> ...


Ah, the next series of lessons for my education. I always enjoy learning from masters.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leg Laminations and Angled Tenons*
> 
> Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert's methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way.
> 
> ...


Some great ideas to learn from here Willie. Very nice work so far. I like your leg treatment a lot, very smart.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*

Here is where the project is at currently.








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Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.








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Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. 








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Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. 








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The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. 








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With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. 








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With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. 








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Then slats are milled for tenons at the dado blade. 








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Now it is time to cut the armrests. With a new blade on the bandsaw I cut the 7 degree taper for the armrests. Notice how two armrests are ganged together for extra stability as I make this freehand cut. 








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Move the wedge from the top to the bottom of the armrest and glue it in place, smooth side to smooth side. 









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While the glue was drying, I cut tenons on 8/4 stock for the back slats. Note how the tenons are offset. 








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My last task of the day was to taper the upper side rails to 7 degrees. I thought the cut could be made with a tapering sled at the tablesaw, but realized doing so would have cut off part of the small tenon. So I decided to make the cut at the bandsaw with an angled block as a guide. I am leaving my upper side rails 1/4" wider than usual. This extra width will fit in a groove on the underside of the armrest (the WoodSmith Shop trick). 









Next up will be fitting the armrests and through tenons.
Cheers!


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## dczward (May 23, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


oh man, this is a bucket list project for me. It's looking great. Can't wait to see more!


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


You go Willie. Good stuff all around.

Steve


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


I always see something new and worthwhile. Thank you for sharing!


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## CJIII (Jan 3, 2014)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


Nice progress!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


Looks great so far.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


Interesting reading watching this come together Willie.


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## nicholasrhall (Aug 19, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


You are a rockstar. What an awesome blog.


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## Luddite (Jan 4, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


Excellent work dude.

I'd liked to have used the bandsaw but not enough clearance. 
Love your work.


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## anjuna16 (Jul 16, 2018)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


At the risk of necro-ing this thread…I am planning to build this same chair in the fall (2018).

Did you build the bottom side rail and thus the slats at right angles? Lang's plans call for the bottom side rail to be sloped, thus throwing off the length of each slat, and requiring angled through tenons on the front and back, all of which would add considerable time, and chance for error to the project.

I ask because your chair turned out great and does not appear to have a sloped bottom side rail. If I could get the same geometric results as yours and skip that feature, I'd happily do so.

Thanks.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame Assembly and Through Tenons*
> 
> Here is where the project is at currently.
> 
> ...


No angles on the side slats for me. The armrests are already sloped, and the upper side rail is cut to a matching angle, and all that was complex enough for me. I know Bob was just following through with a dedicated reproduction, and I admire him for that. I am an arts and crafts revivalist too, and sometimes I'll do every last detail like the original (like lapped dovetails on casework that will never be seen!), but on the Morris chair I didn't see how angled slats added anything to the look or function of the chair.

Interestingly, some chair makers simple shortened the back legs to give the same effect. It puts everything on an angle, but without the work of angled joinery. However, the arms are already angled, and the seat frame is set at an independent angle, so I didn't shorten the back legs on mine.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Slant Arms and Side Slats*

This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.








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I wanted to drill all the 5/8" holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I'll take care of it now. 








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There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. 








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Now the side assembly can be dry fit. 








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Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4" taller than the shoulders of the leg tenons. This extra height will fit into a groove on the underside of the armrests. 








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In the last segment we built the slanted armrests. Now we can clean up the top and bottom of the armrest with a block plane and sanding blocks. As you flatten the short terminus of the armrest, check the fit frequently. You want the armrest to sit flat on the shoulders of the leg tenons. 








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Don't be tempted to clean up the edge of the armrest with a hand plane. Instead take it to the jointer for a light pass. Then re-establish parallel at the tablesaw with a skim pass. Taking your time here will help improve the accuracy when laying out the mortise locations in the armrests. 








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While the 5/8" drill bit is still chucked in the drill press, I drill 1-3/4" deep holes for the backrest stop pegs. You'll want to take care of this operation before the armrests are tapered. 








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Use the tenons themselves to layout the mortise locations in the armrests. 








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The rear mortises are angled to 7 degrees, so I used the cutoffs from my side rails to make a ramp. A piece of plywood brad nailed to angled boards completes the ramp. I don't glue the parts together, because I will need the angled pieces as clamping cauls for my side assembly glueup later. 








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Mortising the armrest. I leave the layout line, and fine tune the mortise with chisels and sanding blocks. 








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I start with the front mortise, working up to the pencil line. I turn the armrest 180 degrees to check the fit periodically. This allows me to size the front mortise independently. Once the front mortise slides 2/3 of the way over the tenon, I turn the armrest into its correct position and work on the rear mortise. 








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The chisel work involves tapering the mortise wall slightly to ease the fit. Very little work is done on the tenons, other than a light sanding. Once the armrests are fit, mark the intersection of the armrest and the angled side rails with a pencil (underside of armrests). 








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Use the pencil marks you just made to cut a groove on the underside of the armrest. This groove will receive the upper side rail. Although it adds to the structure of the assembly, this is primarily to avoid seeing daylight under the armrest. 
Make sure to get a groove fully 1/4" deep. The router tends to lift up as you traverse the bent section of the arm. I simply increased the bit height in that section until I achieved the required depth. 








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Figure on a day to shape and fit the armrests. Because it is largely done with hand tools, it takes some time. 









Next up will be chamfering the through tenons, and building the ladder back assembly. 
Cheers!


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## CJIII (Jan 3, 2014)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Slant Arms and Side Slats*
> 
> This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.
> 
> ...


Looks good!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Slant Arms and Side Slats*
> 
> This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.
> 
> ...


Excellent!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Slant Arms and Side Slats*
> 
> This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.
> 
> ...


More great work. It's interesting to see how we differ in our little processes.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Slant Arms and Side Slats*
> 
> This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.
> 
> ...


Dang that is looking good.
What a massive build this is.

Steve


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Ladder Back *

This is the Morris Chair I am building.








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Well it's time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8" thick stock. The tongue is 3/4" wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. 








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Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. 








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Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.








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I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.








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Next I pattern rout the corbels to final shape. 








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I avoid routing the end grain section of the corbel, because it can cause chipout. I prefer to sand the narrow end of the corbel to final shape. 








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Chamfering the diamond shape on the front legs is pretty easy. Just tilt the table to 15 degrees and sand to your line. Chamfering the rear legs is a bit more challenging because of the angle. To chamfer the back of the rear leg set the table angle to 22 degrees (miter gauge at 90 degrees). To chamfer the front of the rear legs set the table angle to 8 degrees (miter gauge at 90 degrees). To chamfer the sides of the rear legs set the table angle to 15 degrees (miter gauge +7 degrees on one side, and -7 degrees on the other side). 








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The settings above work for a chair that has armrests angled to 7 degrees. Adjust accordingly if your plan calls for a different angle. 








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Side assembly glueup.








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Side assembly complete.








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Tenons chamfered to final shape at the oscillating belt sander.








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Here you can see how the chamfered diamond follows the angle of the armrest. 








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Now I turn my attention to the ladder back assembly. Instead of laminating strips for the curved backslats, I cut them from solid 8/4 stock. This way I can use a dado blade to establish offset tenons before I cut the curved shape. Another option is to use flat back slats with no curve at all. 








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I put my oscillating belt sander to work again sanding the slats to my layout line. I start with 36 grit, and work up through 120 grit. 








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I sand the parts with a ROS to 150 grit, and fine tune the tenon fit with a sanding block.








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I run the slats through the router table on edge to ease the sharp corners. 








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Ladder back glueup. 








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I use a sled at the tablesaw to make the angled cut on the armrests. 








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Run the armrest through the router table on edge. This way the router bearing won't dive into the holes drilled in your armrest, and bobble the cut. 








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Well, that's it for this entry. Next up will be fitting the corbels, and making pegs & washers for the backrest adjustment mechanism


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## goggy (Jan 17, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Nicely done.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Clever way of doing several operations.

Well done,
Steve


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Some seriously nice machining.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Great work and great working routines. Your chair will be a beaut.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Always fun to watch you work!


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Looks like she's coming along great! Looking forward to the next installment!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Very educational, thank you!


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Great progress, can't wait to whole chair


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


I like the way you make your tenons! I don't think I've ever made a thru tenon, and that'll be a learning curve for me, 'cause I always have the shoulder and the "end of the hole" to hide any imperfections. I'm watching and learning, I want to build one of these soon.

I do have access to a nice leather sewing machine (I made 100 or so leather pliers cases back in the day, and Leathercraft is one of my hobbies that I had/have and just need to dust off) so maybe I'll follow suit and make the cushions myself. I also gave my wife a Cadillac sewing machine for Christmas last year, and I've been trying to warm her up to the idea of making me some nice canvas cushion covers too ;-)

I also really dig your big old Delta Jointer and your bandsaw. It's sad that Delta went down the tubes. I have a Delta jointer, (the X5 model that they discontinued some years ago) and it's decent, but nothing like the good old ones.


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Great blog on your Morris chair build. Amother item on my to-do list. I have a Stickley Morris chair that reclines but I want to make one with a G&G flair for the TV room in the basement.


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ladder Back *
> 
> This is the Morris Chair I am building.
> 
> ...


Great work and presentation, very easy to follow. Well thought out project.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*

With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. 








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Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. 








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Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.








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A 1/4" dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armrest and tenon liberally (including end-grain) to prevent armrest spring-back. 








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Now I set out to make the 4 pegs that secure the backrest.








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I mill a length of 1"x1" stock, and chamfer the corners at the router table. Then I cut the peg handles to a length of 2", and drill a 5/8" hole. 








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Then it's just a matter of gluing 5/8" dowel into the hole. Alternately, you could turn the peg and handle from one piece of wood at the lathe. The pivot pegs are longer than the stop pegs. Basically, just size the dowel to fit the depth of your drilled holes. 








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With the chamfering bit still setup in the router table, I knock off the corners of a 2"x2" block. Then the hole can be drilled, and the washers can be cut free. These simple wooden washers prevent the backrest assembly from rubbing against the armrests. 








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In the last episode we cut the corbels to shape. Now the corbels are glued in place. 








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The corbels have a 3/4" wide tongue that fits snugly in a groove. Although a long grain glue joint would have been strong enough, the tongue and groove help to securely register the corbel during glueup. Another reason I like the groove method is that it avoids visible screws that would later need to be plugged. 
The rear corbels need one additional step. Cut the top of the corbel to a 7 degree angle to match the fall of the armrest. 








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Next I laminate some leg stock for the ottoman.









Next up will be the ottoman build. 
Cheers!


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


Very nice build.
And an ottoman build too? Cool.

Steve


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


This is really coming along nicely.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


You're just about there! Am interested to see how you finish the chair. I just finished my Morris chair, and am curious to see your finishing choice.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


On track for another great project!


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


Moving right along


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## goggy (Jan 17, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


Awesome! I really like the lamination of the the legs. What kind of glue did you use to laminate? That process shows great attention to detail.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


I used Titebond II for the leg laminations.
-Thanks


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


I missed the first parts of your blog Pinto. Got to go back and read the rest. Thanks for sharing this.


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the great blog. 
I have a question. Are the bottom pegs that connect the back to the leg just a friction fit? I'm almost ready to start glue-up on a 336 bow arm chair I've been making, but am unsure about the pegs. My guess is that they are not glued into either piece (obviously they could only be glued into either the leg or the back, not both, or the back couldn't pivot, but then you wouldn't be able to remove the back). I've looked through multiple magazine articles (including your recent one in Popular Woodworking, which was great; and also several by Bob Lang) and can't find this information.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


Hi Jeremy,
The pegs are just a friction fit. You can turn one-piece pegs on a lathe or drill dowel stock to make the pegs. There's really nothing that would make them fall out.

Even on my bow arm #336 rockers, I've never lost a peg. If they're a little tight, just sand them until they fit.

Best of luck with it!


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Corbels, Pegs, and Washers*
> 
> With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the help Willie. I figured that was the case, but it's nice to have confirmation that the back of the chair won't fall off with someone sitting in it!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Leather Upholstery*

I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions. 








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The seat cushion and the ottoman cushion require web frames. Here I am milling the half-lap components for the web frames. 








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Web frame assemblies are glued together. The seat frame should be sized 1/4" smaller in all directions than the opening in your chair, to allow room for the leather and two layers of batting.








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Corner blocks are added to the large seat cushion for additional strength. 








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I didn't have a webbing stretcher handy, so I made one from a block of wood and some sheathing nails. Lengths of dowel create a handle. 








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I stretch nylon webbing over the frame, and secure it with upholstery tacks. 








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I use #10 or #12 tacks to attach the straps. An occasional staple helps the webbing lie flat. 








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Seat cushion webbing complete. Notice how the straps are woven together. 








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Next webbing is attached to the ottoman frame. The ottoman frame should be sized 1/8" smaller in all directions than the opening of your ottoman. This allows enough room for the leather and a single layer of batting. 








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This is the underside of the ottoman frame. Notice how the corners are knocked off so it will fit inside the ottoman legs.








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Next a 12" square piece of 1" thick high density foam is spray glued to the webbing. This helps to crown the shape of the seat cushion. 








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How does a woodworker cut upholstery foam? With a bandsaw of course. It works quite well, I might add. In projects where the cushion sits on top of the chair (some dining chairs are built this way), I will cut foam slightly oversized. In this case however, the cushion rests down in the framework of the chair, so the foam is cut to the SAME size as the web frame. I selected 5" high density foam for the seat cushion.








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Here at the upholstery class, full-sized templates are made from heavy paper. The templates are used to layout the required pieces, and held flat with several weights. The patterns are traced with a ball point pen, and the leather pieces are cut out. 








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The seat cushion has 7" square notches removed from each corner. The corners are then sewn up with a blind stitch and a 1/2" seam allowance. Set the sewing machine for 5-6 stitches per inch. We sized the cover to reach 1/2" short of the inside edge of the web frame. That way when stretching the cover over the foam, you can pull it even with the inside edge of the web frame for a consistent look. Turn the seam allowance to one side or the other to direct the seam where it is less visible. The cover is then drawn down and stapled in place with a pneumatic stapler (electric staplers usually don't set the staple fully). 








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Cambric nonwoven fabric is added to the underside as a dust cover. 








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Seat cushion complete.








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The 3" thick 1.8 density ottoman foam is attached to the webbing with spray adhesive. Then high-loft Dacron (polyester batting) is stretched and stapled in place. Aim for a snug fit that slightly compresses and shapes the foam. 








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Trim the excess batting, and the ottoman cushion is ready for leather. 








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The leather is simply stretched over the ottoman cushion - no sewing here. Start by placing one or two tacks in the middle of one edge. Then stretch across the width and repeat on the opposite edge. Next tack on a third side, and stretch across the length. This way you can pull all the slack out of the leather. Then you can work to the corners. We used tacks to temporarily hold the leather, and staples for permanent attachment. 








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Excess leather is trimmed away.








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Cambric dust fabric is applied, just as with the seat cushion.








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Ottoman cushion complete.








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Now we can move on to the backrest cushion.








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Here I am sewing the welting (piping) at the class. I used 3/16" welting cord. 








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Start by blind sewing a zipper tape to the bottom edge of the backrest plates. We used a #4.5 nylon upholstery zipper. Cut 1-1/4" square notches out of the backrest plates (all 4 corners). Blind sew the notches shut with a 1/2" seam allowance. 








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The welting is stapled to one of the plates. The two plates for the back cushion are then stapled together with a Bostitch P-3 hand stapler. That way the leather isn't moving around as you sew. For the main seam around the perimeter I used a 1/4" welting foot. All seams are made with #69 nylon upholstery thread. Polyester upholstery thread would also work, but it isn't bonded and can fray. 








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Here the backrest cushion has been sewn. 








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Here you can see the effect created by notching the corners. It is called a faux-box cushion, because it fits the cushion well like a boxed cushion, but only has one central seam. 








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We made straps and inserted them on either side of the faux-box corners. When the cushion is inside out, the orientation of the straps is pointing inward and downward. It's best to just staple them in place, and turn the cushions right side out to convince yourself they are positioned correctly. 








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We used a #4.5 nylon upholstery zipper. Make sure the zipper slide faces the correct direction (with the cushion inside out, the slide pull will be hidden).








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The backrest cushion is 3" thick 1.8 density foam, wrapped in two layers of Dacron. The first layer is wrapped side-to-side, and the second layer is wrapped front-to-back. The Dacron batting is attached with spray adhesive. Spray the edges as well, and pinch them together to close the joints. 








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Next I blind stitched a slip cover, and placed it over the backrest cushion. 








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This will help the leather slide over the cushion more easily. 








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The backrest cushion slides easily into the leather cover. 








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Backrest cushion complete.








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Finally I can install the ledger strips that support the seat cushion. The rear strip is mounted at the bottom edge of the rail.








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The front ledger strip is mounted near the top of the rail. 








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Upholstery complete.









Next up I will finish the ottoman, and staining won't be far behind.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Willie, I always learn something from your blogs. Thank you for posting the upholstery procedures. I know that I wouldn't be able to do it, but I now have a much better understanding of the process.


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## johnhutchinson (Dec 9, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


*Fantastic tutorial !!!*
I saw something on Sunday Morning about the leather used by Rolls Royce. They only use "boy" leather because "girl" leather might have stretch marks.
Sounded sexist to me.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Making your own leather cushions is a great skill set to have, thanks

for sharing the process Willie.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Another great blog! Looking forward to seeing the finished set!


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Willie you are amazing, I am totally gobsmacked! Thank you so much for posting all of this very valuable information. I'm wondering, are you selling this stuff? If so I'd like to know what marketing methods you are using. If you are NOT selling it, in my opinion you are missing an opportunity, your work is as professional as any I've seen anywhere.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Looks like a worthwhile class! Totally professional.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. 
Jerry- I'm not selling my work, but I appreciate the compliment. Leather was new territory for me. I haven't sewn anything since a pair of Bermuda shorts in middle school. Taking a class was a great way to pick up a new skill. The instructor had 30 years of upholstery experience, so he was a great resource.

Thanks again.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Wow, what a project and very useful indeed


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Super blog very informative and interesting.


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## goggy (Jan 17, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Outstanding! Nicely done. Can't wait to see the finished product! Just sent you a pm the other day asking about the chair progress. Great visual tutorial as well.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Willie,

Thank you for an excellent tutorial! I have my grandparents' (very old) Morris chair that needs repaired and reupholstered and this should be very helpful when I finally get around to doing it.

L/W


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Absolutely awesome! A very inspiring project. Can't hardly wait to see it finished. Great work Pinto. Bravo!


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


This blog series has been so informative, and it is awesome that you took the time to take a sewing class to make your own cushions.

Very cool!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Wow! What a very detailed picture how-to. Thnx for posting. Your chair looks, and I'm sure feels gr8!


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Wow Willie, that is neat.
I did some upholstery years ago, but nothing this nice.
Taking the class was a good idea.

Well done sir,
Steve


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Wonderful work and a great tutorial too Willie. Your excellent results testify to your dedication and new found skills.


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## ahha (Jan 26, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Great information! I'm starting the Wood Whisperer's Guild build of a Morris Chair, and dreading the upholstery. This post makes it much less intimidating to "tack-le" (pun intended). I cross-posted this link to a comment thread there. it will help everyone in the guild.


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Sweet! Thanks for taking the time to do this. Just creating such an informative instructional is time consuming. The chair looks great, and your upholstering looks like that of a seasoned veteran. Well done.


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## artisan555 (Oct 12, 2014)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Hi this is lovely. Please can you tell me what type of webbing you have used here? Is it elasticated? I am upholstering a stool and I have so me non elasticated black webbing. The kind which is usually on bag straps, so it is totally strong but nog elasticated. It looks like the one you have used in your photo but I need to be sure. It is not upholstery elasticated webbing that I have, and I need to know if it okay to use this. If the one you used was like this, I will go ahead and try it out. Thanks.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


The black webbing is not elastic. It is nylon webbing and it is incredibly strong, yet it will give a little bit when you sit on it. It makes a more comfortable seat than a plywood base.
Thanks


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Willie, I had the same thought process as you regarding the webbing, but made the opposite decision. My upholsterer told me that the webbing would be much more expensive, and that I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between it and a plywood base. When I sat on the bare foam, on the plywood base at their shop, it felt very comfortable to me. I ended up using foam that is 6" thick, so that probably makes the difference. Thinner foam may require the webbing.


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## brnhornt (Sep 17, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Looks great! and thanks for the info…this post made me sign up 

Just a quick question…but where did you source your leather? I'm finishing a Morris Chair build of my own and have an upholsterer who will do the work…but I just need to provide the leather I want.

Thanks!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


The leather was from Tandy leather, and is made by Terino Leathers in the "Montgomery Whiskey" color. I use one of their stores locally, but perhaps they ship as well. You can check them out at tandyleather.com
It looks like they have a branch in Middleburg. 
Good luck with your project.


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## brnhornt (Sep 17, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the quick reply! Hope mine turns out as nice as yours did 

One more question if you don't mind…but how many square feet did you purchase? I know that each project is different…but looking for a general number so I can get an idea of the cost I'll be looking at.


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## brnhornt (Sep 17, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Oh…and just looked up Tandy…that's right in my general neighborhood…thanks again!


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## brnhornt (Sep 17, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Hey Willie…just saw something else that caught my eye. With the high density foam….I see you spray glue the 1" thick piece to the webbing….but how is the second, 5" thick piece attached? Is it just sprayed onto the first and then you use the dacron batting to pull down the rest? Or did you glue it down around the edges as well?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


The project requires one full hide, which is usually around 50-60 s.f.

Both foam pieces can be spray glued in place. They certainly won't go anywhere once the leather is stapled in place. 
Best of Luck


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## brnhornt (Sep 17, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Thanks again!


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## LeatherSupplier (Apr 17, 2016)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Very nice Willie, well done!
Frank


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## CWT2017 (Mar 24, 2017)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Very nice. I recently completed a Morris chair and ottoman using quarter-sawn white oak. I used a Woodsmith Plan from a few years ago. It has 17 square spindles on each side of the chair. It was a "bear" to build.

Your upholstery work and real leather is much better than mine. I ended up using a very soft, supple faux leather that is pretty good but nothing like leather.

Thanks for sharing this!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...





> Very nice. I recently completed a Morris chair and ottoman using quarter-sawn white oak. I used a Woodsmith Plan from a few years ago. It has 17 square spindles on each side of the chair. It was a "bear" to build.
> 
> Your upholstery work and real leather is much better than mine. I ended up using a very soft, supple faux leather that is pretty good but nothing like leather.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliments. I have found leather upholstery a useful skill set to have, and purchased a walking foot machine after I took the class. I have made several cushions since then, mostly seat cushions in brown or black leather. I've been having good luck with my upholstery projects, and I think anyone could learn to do it. There is something so satisfying about selecting each board, milling each joint, then finishing it off with your own upholstery. Even if you decide against doing the upholstery yourself, select the leather… or select the foam. It's fun to have a hand in the decision making process.

Cheers!


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Willie,
Just came across this blog post as I'm about to embark on a Morris Chair,
Very informative as usual, thanks.

I've never done the upholstery part myself but have always cut my own foam and batting,
Maybe this is what I need to go in that direction!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Leather Upholstery*
> 
> I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions.
> 
> ...


Hi Doug,
You may want to pick up a copy of the August 2020 issue of Popular Woodworking. I've got a couple articles in that issue about a Morris rocker build, based on a #336 Stickley. There is a detailed write-up on the leather upholstery if you're interested.

Thanks


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Ottoman*

Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair. 








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The ottoman legs were laminated with thin veneers. As with the chair, I used 1/4" thick veneer strips that are later planed down to 3/32" thickness. 








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The ottoman legs are planed to their final size of 1-3/4" square, and mortised to receive 1/2" thick tenons. 








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I do an initial assembly to see how the joints fit. Everything is scaled down on the ottoman, compared to the Morris chair. The rails are 7/8" thick (vs. 1" thick on the chair), the legs are 1-3/4" (vs. 2-3/8" on the chair), and the mortises are 1/2" wide (vs. 5/8" on the chair). It seems like the ottoman is nearly complete at this stage, but there are still 16 more mortises to cut. 








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Mortising for the side slats. These mortises are made with the 5/16" chisel. 








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I cut the tenons to size, checking the fit on the OUTSIDE of the mortise. Once all the joinery is done, the curves can be cut at the bandsaw. 








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One more dry assembly lets me take a true measurement for the lower cross rails. 








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The top rails are haunched where they intersect. This gives the shorter tenon as much surface area for glue as possible. 








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I try to rip all my stock for a project at the same time. That way I minimize the number of times I have to install the dado blade. Here I am doing the finish sanding prior to assembly. 








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Then the side assemblies go together.








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The lower cross rails are just large enough to add some rigidity to the frame, but small enough to be out of the way when tucking your feet under the ottoman.








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Once the side assemblies go together, it's just about done. 








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A few more pegs to flush trim, a little detail sanding, and I will be ready to apply the finish. 








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Next up will be stain and lacquer.


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## goggy (Jan 17, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


Well done, well documented, and beautiful QSWO!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


Mighty fine machining, and picture how to along the way.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


You're really gett'n the hang of this! Look'n good!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


A lot of work, but very nicely done and with a beautiful result.


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## JPO (Nov 28, 2014)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


Just beautiful work! I'm interested in building just the ottoman portion of this project to match an existing morris chair I own. Do the Popular Woodworking plans you mention at the beginning of this series include dimensions for the ottoman as well?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


No, I came up with the ottoman dimensions. Sorry.


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## JPO (Nov 28, 2014)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...


Willie, I sent you a PM but I'm not sure if the forum software let it get through to you. I'm wondering what the height of the top and bottom rails on the ottoman are.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Ottoman*
> 
> Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair.
> 
> ...












Posting dimensions here for those that have requested them.

Cheers


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Stain and Lacquer*

I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.








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After the chair had dried for 24-48 hours I sprayed Rudd lacquer (Satin sheen), which I strain and thin 20% with lacquer thinner. After the first coat I sanded with 320 grit soft sponges, and cleaned the dust with cheese cloth (not tack cloth) and compressed air. 








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After the second coat I wet sanded with 1500 grit soft sponges. The whole chair only took 15-20 minutes to wet sand. 








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The Rudd lacquer sprayed well, and left a nice satin finish without too much fuss. 








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Here is the completed project page…
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/99452
Cheers!


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## Flocktothewall (Jan 16, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


A great read, loved following all the steps. Sad its finally over. Great job Pinto!


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting you blog series on this project. It was really enjoyable to see the progress from a pile of lumber to this, the finished furniture!


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## goggy (Jan 17, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


Nice finish. I've never sprayed before but I'm inspired to try. I have a brand new HVLP sprayer I received as a birthday gift 3 years ago. I know you said yours was gravity fed. Is it standard or HVLP?


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


Love the finish. Looks like quality and the sheen is just right too.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


This is a great looking project!

I LOVE Rudd! It was the first professional grade finish that I ever shot and it gave me fantastic results with little effort and a very durable finish. Currently, there is nobody really selling Rudd in Billings (where I live) unless I special order it in.

My new favorite is M.L. Campbell Magnamax. By the testing I have done it has to be the most durable pre-cat on the market.

If you use a wiping stain such as Sherwin Williams BAC Wiping Stain or ML Campbell Wiping Stain, they are lacquer based and can be top coated with a lacquer finish in one hour as per the directions on the can. If you are top coating with anything else, such as waterborne or oil base, dry time is 24 hours.

Besides the dry time, one other benefit is that the wiping stains handle and absorb differently than the oil base stains and there is very little blotching with these types of stains. Less struggle, faster production time, it's all good


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


Goggy,
My gravity feed guns are all conversion HVLP type. They run off of a compressor, and do not require a turbine. I have a Porter Cable PSH1 and a Wood River gravity feed. The only difference I can see is the PC came with a pressure regulator.


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


Great finish of a very nice project. Really enjoyed this Willie.


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain and Lacquer*
> 
> I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.
> 
> ...


Just read through the whole blog building this chair. And i must say it is one of the best and most thorough blogs i have read. Learned a lot and enjoyed the read. 
Thank you so much for sharing!


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