# Crystalac Grain Filler



## Dusty56

Good to know ….thank you for the review : )


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## MOJOE

thanks vic…..i have been wanting to do a project with walnut, but figuring out how to make the finish smooth and glossy was holding me back, seems like this might be the answer.


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## sbryan55

Thanks for the review. I have not had the opportunity to use this product but will have to take a look at it after reading this.


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## charlie48

Thanks for the review. I'll have to give it a try.


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## jspelbring

Thanks for the review - I've been looking for a simple grain filler. I'll give it a try.


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## Ken90712

Great review I will try it this weekend. Rockler is having a big Garage Sale starting Sat., so I have to go by there,,, LOL


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## woodsmithshop

I have used this product for many years now and I really like it, and all Crystalac products I have used, 
Mc Feelys also carries it.you can stain the wood before applying and the stain shows through just fine.


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## bench_dogg

Good Review, this is the best grain filler I know of. It also takes dye very well.


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## patron

thanks ,
i am so tired of all those fillers that they want you to wipe with burlap ,
i have never had them work , 
and they are to coarse too ,

i'll give this a try .


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## D1st

Is this ok for cutting boards/blocks?


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## dbhost

Good info, I have been pondering the grain issues on oak for a while now…


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## vicrider

I would not recommend this product for cutting boards if they are to be used and not just displayed. I don't think it is toxic but I wouldn't want to eat it.

I would only use food grade mineral oil to finish cutting boards, but the one's I make for my family's use (currently 5 of various sizes) have no finish at all. they are used, washed, dried and occasionally sanded. If one gets really bad, I discard it and make another one, but I usually don't make them fancy. Lots of the cutting boards I see on LJs are absolute works of art and I wouldn't want to cut on them.

It is my belief, having made, used and given away 30 or 40 of them, that wood cutting boards made of maple, birch, or alder, when kept clean and dry, are safer and cleaner than the plastic ones.


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## TarHeel1

I have oak cabinets (grains very evident) and want to paint white-oil base. Do I lightly sand, apply Crystalac woor filler, then apply primers, then paint? I'm somewhat confused. Thanks for a prompt reply. Frank


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## vicrider

It is very important is to clean the cabinet surfaces thoroughly first. If there is any cooking oil residue on them (very common in kitchens), any finish will have adhesion problems. Once the cabs are clean, you can move directly to the filler since you will have to sand that anyway. Let the filler dry completely and it will sand easily.

A good primer like Kilz will seal the surface and help the new finish adhere. Then the finish coat.

Hope this helps.

vicrider


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## vicrider

In my experience with using it straight from the container, it dries clear. I have not found it necessary to color or stain the product. I prefer a finish of polyurethane over a seal coat of shellac, and to me the filler just looks like the finish. My eye is not drawn to an accent color in the grain like with some granular fillers. My best results are with two sanded coats of Crystalac grain filler after a shellac seal coat. Then as many coats of clear finish as you prefer. I really enjoy creating a fine finish if that is appropriate for the piece.

At any rate, the best advice is to try it out on few scrap pieces before using it on a valuable project. It doesn't take long as there is very little clean up and you won't use up the container on test pieces. I have been very pleased with the results when using this filler. I can not say the same thing about other types of fillers.

Here are a few shots of a walnut test piece that has 1 coat of shellac, 2 sanded coats of Crystalac, and ONE coat of gloss poly. There are a few 'fish eyes' but these would be minimized by additional sanding and coats of finish. There are minute but still visible grain markings in the test piece but they would also fill. Since I was satisfied with the results I didn't feel it was necessary to proceed any further.

Hope I get this right.

contrast between filled and glossed walnut and unfilled satin red oak.










Reflection in walnut test finish.










Reflection showing fisheye blemish


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## woodplay

wowwwww. that walnut looks smooth. 
I'm so torn between finishes. I love the lusty glassy look of the "piano" finish. But I also really appreciate the warm hand rubbed look of danish oil and buffing. I think I might try filling the pores of the current walnut project I'm working on.
Here's my plan, let me know if it sounds like a bad idea:
1. 2 coats deft danish oil then sand a little
2. fill the pores with behlens brown filler, sand
3. 1 more coat of danish oil to help blend color of filler to the rest of the piece
4. let dry for several days
5. finish with wipe-on poly, or spray water based poly.


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## vicrider

I have to admit that I have not used Danish oil for finish since having a bad experience some years ago. I finished an oak piece with Danish and had the oil expand out of the pores when the piece was exposed to the sun. The oil then dried on the finish coat and left a blotchy surface. This was probably a result of not allowing a proper drying time between processes, but it was enough for me to give up Danish oil. I also have not used Behlen's brown filler.

My best advice is to try your finish process on a test piece and see if you get the look you like. I know this adds extra time to your project but the test piece process is recommended by most professionals. It really is the best way to determine if you will get the results you want. Over time you will gain experience with lots of different finishes and will be able to select an appropriate finish for each project. I make many small pieces with exotic woods that are enhance by a gloss finish, but I use satin and semigloss on larger pieces. Also, many customers do not like the extra care a gloss finish requires.

I hope this helps.


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## C_PLUS_Woodworker

Perfect timing on this great thread

Thanks, Vic

I am working on a oak project and knew I needed some guidance on the finish.

I'll make sure you get to see the "finished" project

Best…......Bruce


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## zonkers

Vic, Thanks for the review. I just jumped over to the Rockler website and bought a qt. for a red oak box I'm doing. Your finish looks awesome and sealed the deal for me on how to proceed with the finish.


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## jimc

Not bashing any company here but you can save over $10 by purchasing this at McFeely's (I don't work at McFeely's, nor am I a paid shill - just a customer who appreciates a good savings).

Amazon/Rockler - approx $29 per quart + $8.95 s&h = approx $38
Mcfeely's - $23.40 + $1 s&h = $24.40

Jim


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## woodstain

I'm refinishing a very old baby grand piano. The wood is mahogany with a walnut finish. It also has some burl inserts. I've sanded it down and applied a lacquer sanding sealer coat and next I'm going to apply a two tone stain in keeping with the original finish. I'm going to apply the Crystalac Grain Filler and think I'll finish using a shellac finish as I hope to do a french polish. I was wondering if I should finalize with poly because it's more durable. Shellac was used when the piano was made. Being a novice at this, does this sound like a good plan?


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## WildmanJack

Just started using Crystalac on a piece of Andaman Padauk and it does not appear that it's filling anything !!! . So far I guess I'm not doing it right . I have tried three different ways to put it on. First time with a brush and an old credit card, second time with a rag working it in like it was polish then using a 4" blade to scrape off the excess, then the third time again with the rag and a 4 " blade. Each time I could still see open grain when I looked really hard. Maybe I'm too picky???
OK I just gave it a coat of Poly, so we'll see how it dries… Then if it dries as good as it looks wet ( yeah right !) then I'll buff it with my auto buffer… Results to follow !!!!

Jack


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## Gene01

John,
Maybe a couple more coats?


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## WildmanJack

That's what I'm thinking as well Gene, I hope not as it will be a presentation to some good friends for helping me with my yearly fund raiser. I have a charitable foundation that allows less fortunate kids to be able to take music lessons. And the event starts this Friday !!!! LOL Maybe I started this a little late, ya think LOL

Jack


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## vicrider

there may be an issue with how you are applying the filler, Wildman. I lay it on heavy and smooth it of with the edge of a credit card or plastic scraper. This leaves a fair amount of material on the surface which will shrink when dry. I also use at least two applications, dependent on the species, and perhaps more until the grain is filled. What I like most is that the filler dries clear with no grit or visible residue in the grain when sanded. I would also to use this filler only on pieces where I am going for a gloss finish, as there is a significant amount of effort and care involved.


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## WildmanJack

Ok so your telling me that I need to leave enough on so it still looks like I spilt milk on the wood??? I thought I was supposed to scrape off all the white right down to the wood!!!!!
Jack


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## vicrider

Hmmmm, I wouldn't say spilled milk, rather a smooth 'milky' layer. Too thick and it takes much longer to dry. And it needs to be dry to sand.


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## WildmanJack

Well, I guess that's where I've been screwing up. I've been painting or wiping it on then using the credit card or razor, scraping it all off right down to the wood. OK I'll try the right way this time and see what happens.. Thanks so much for clearing that up Vic. I really appreciate it..
Jack


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## WildmanJack

Well thanks to you guys I finally figured this stuff out!!! I was just trying it on a piece of Black Walnut to see how it would come out and I'm pretty happy for my first time.. Wha do you think???


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## vicrider

that's the way it should look. Glad to see it worked for you. I admire your persistence.

vic


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## WildmanJack

Thanks Vic, I stopped on the Padauk and started on a piece of Black Walnut. Going to go back to the Padauk in a day or so…
Jack


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## bgm1911

WildmanJack,

Please share what you did differently to get the results that you did.

I'm working on a small walnut table top, and this Crystalac is testing my patience! I have 2 areas of the top that run the entire length, that have no desire to be filled. I've applied 4 coats of this stuff, sanded back with 220, and the pores are as readily visible as if I DIDN'T APPLY A DROP.

Thanks!

Mike


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## WildmanJack

Mike,
I put a couple of coats of cut Shellac 50/50 on the wood first, then started with the Crystalac, I probably put 6 layers on before I finally got the finish smooth. Then I put it on again!!! Yeah I know it's a pain in the Butt, but that's what I did, sanding lightly between coats. But I used 400 and 800 grit wet sandpaper between coats. Even after that I still could see some grain but after a few coats of lacquer they filled in, Then I hand rubbed a 50/50 cut of shellac and buffed after wet sanding, All of a sudden the finish just popped. To be honest I was pooped, but the end result was exactly what I wanted. Understand this was just a small 6×6" piece of walnut that I was trying on. I rubbed the shellac with a cotton shirt and a couple of drops of olive oil to lube the process. It was the buffing with white rouge that really bought out the finish.
Man I sure hope this helps, buddy, it was not a walk in the park that's for sure… Please let us know how you make out..
Jack
OH yeah, after I buffed it, I applied a couple of coats of Johnston's Paste Wax and buffed that off … It really helped…


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## vicrider

Hi bgm.

I apply the filler with a clean pad of cotton cloth, rubbing it firmly into the pores of the wood. After a generous application I smooth the filler with a small scraper (old credit card or plastic scraper) held at about 45 degrees to the surface, leaving a nearly smooth milky layer on the wood. I have not had the experience of the filler not 'holding' in the pores of open grain wood.

All this leads to other questions, i.e., any other finishes applied prior to filling, any way there can be silicone or oily contamination on the wood, why would it not fill only part of the piece??

I can sure understand your frustration.


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## WildmanJack

Mike,
What he said LOL!!!


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## bgm1911

Just a follow up to my post.

The manufacturer of the product suspected the product was bad. They were kind enough to send me some new product free of charge. Just opening the container showed the product is white, where mine had a brown tint to it. The new material did indeed dry clear when applied to scrap.

Who would have thought a finishing product had a shelf life?!!


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## bgm1911

This maybe helpful also:

the first coat of finish before applying the grain filler should be a washcoat (which is what WMJ did with the 50/50 shellac). This will leave the edges of the pores sharp, and will accept the grain filler easier. It also prevents pull-out of the material when removing the excess.


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## Gwjames

I know this is an old post, but I just started using this product. My question is, the excess that I scrape off with the credit card, can that be reused or is it useless once it is contaminated from the wood?


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## vicrider

I would not re-use the product. That said, I would not apply so much that there would be lots of waste. Apply with a soft cloth, scrape the excess with a plastic card as explained earlier, then allow to completely dry.


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