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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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## JoshO (Feb 1, 2009)

Dustmite97 said:


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I haven't tried it yet, but I would think that having two extraction ports on my saw would work well. One for the dust collection port, which I would assume wouldn't gather much. but also one underneath the saw. Most of my dust goes straight down.


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## douglbe (Jul 22, 2007)

Dustmite97 said:


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Welcome to LJs.

Do you have room behind the saw to build a box with the sides angled toward the dust port? You could make this box removable if you need the space. I build a cart for my miter saw and later added a hood I made from half inch plywood and attached the DC hose to the bottom rear of the box. I added an angled plastic fitting from and old vacuum cleaner to the dust port on the saw and this shoots the saw dust pretty much straight into the DC port on my box. This does a good job of removing the sawdust. I still have some dust left on the saw: I don't think it is possible to entirely extract all of your dust without closing in your saw or adding more DC hoses.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

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I bought a dust collection hood on a adjustable stand at Woodcraft, and it works great! I hook it up to my 
1 HP Steel City DC, and position it so my slide goes inside the cute and just touches the back wall in full back position. It creates a cyclone of air that just sucks up almost all the sawdust from my saw. I leave the factory bag in place on the top of the almost non functioning dust collection the saw came with and just empty it into the dust collector when it gets full. My saw is a 12" Makita SCMS… The only drawback is having to reposition it if I want to change the cut to an angle…


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## Abbott (May 10, 2009)

Dustmite97 said:


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I have found that a box built to the correct height of the stand for the saw to set up against with a 4" dust collection port built into the bottom of the collection box works best for me. I used the contractors table saw dust collection hood from Penn State" http://www.pennstateind.com/store/R-TDHOOD.html?mybuyscid=4200829849": for my miter saw box and my table saw. Both applications have worked extremely well, in my opinion this is an outstanding product.


















I also use a 2 ½" hose attached to the saws dust collection port. Both of these hoses, the 4" and the 2 ½" come off of a 4" line near the miter saw dust collection box and they are both opened and closed by the same 4" blast gate.









2 1/2 inch hose to miter saw dust port.









4 inch contractors dust collection hood installed into the bottom of the dust collection box.









Overall view.









Bottom view.









As you can see my saw is a slider so a dust collection box for your saw could be much less in width and depth.










Table saw setup, the bottom and sides are boxed in with the Penn State dust collection unit installed on about a 22 degree angle underneath the saw. I cut a lot of wood on my saws and I am amazed at the sparse amount of saw dust that escapes while using a one horse unit and a 4" main line and the two metal dust hoods from Penn State.


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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Thank you all for the ideas, they are all very good. I will have to try a couple of these.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

Dustmite97 said:


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Take a look at what *johnv51* has to say and show in his photos on the link below his setup is similar to a router table dust collector.
http://woodwhispererforum.com/showthread.php?t=1179

From what I've gathered in my research is that the best way to get collection is to use a setup below the saw and the "bag port" both hooked to 4" or larger hose. I have a Penn State like the one *abbot* shows above on my table saw and it works great and is a quality product. I plan on using one on my miter saw cabinet that's in the works.


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## Blondewood (Mar 30, 2009)

Dustmite97 said:


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Hi Abbott,
Your TS system looks real nice all closed in. What happens when you tilt the TS blade? I have the TS dust catcher from Sears and it uses a piece of plastic to partially close the back, but when i tilt the blade it falls off.
TIA,
Vicki


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## Abbott (May 10, 2009)

Dustmite97 said:


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*Hi Abbott,
Your TS system looks real nice all closed in. What happens when you tilt the TS blade? I have the TS dust catcher from Sears and it uses a piece of plastic to partially close the back, but when i tilt the blade it falls off.
TIA,
Vicki*

Hi Vicky,

I made mine out of a cardboard box and strip magnets that were sticky on one side. The magnet strips were purchased at the craft section at Wal Mart. The cardboard is cut into two sections so it is easily removable when tilting the blade. Then it goes right back on for straight cuts.


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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Update: I have finally got the perfect set up. I was looking around in Busy Bee Tools today when I came across a large dust hood that was $11. I bought it and tried it out. It worked perfectly. Now I can enjoy having a nice clean miter saw station.


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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Here is the dust hood:

http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B2499


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

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Take a look at this… I think it will help you alot…

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/Knipfer.html


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

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Dustmite,

I'm glad you like it…


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## cwdance1 (Jun 23, 2009)

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That is a great web site I had not seen. Thanks


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Dustmite97 said:


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My biggest tools for machined joinery have thus far been…

- Oshlun SDS-0630 Stacked dado set for cutting rabbets and dadoes. You can cut the dadoes and rabbets with the router, an edge guide, and router bits. A stacked dado set I find easier to use, and I get more predictable results. It's probably just me though…
- MLCS Pins & Tails large & small templates, and 1/2" shank router bits. There are other templates / jigs out there for dovetails. Of course a dovetail saw a marking gauge and a VERY practiced hand go a LONG way there…

I have not yet built one, but there are TONS of plans online for simple shop built box joint jigs. I think that is what you mean by "finger joint". there it looks like interlocking fingertips when you look at the corners…


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

Dustmite97 said:


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Well, with dove tails you can either try your luck and do them by hand or look into a dove tailing jig. There are some that are pretty good for not a whole heap of money. And with some dove tailing jigs you can also use them for finger joints as well. As for doing finger joints with the tools you already have, I made a very simple jig with my miter gauge for my table saw and used a dado head set to the opening I wanted. If you want to see the jig I made, let me know and I'll send you some pics. When ever I do boxes though, I miter the joints, and I can show you how I do those as well.

This site has some nice dove tail and box joint jigs for a decent price. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/


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## getneds (Mar 18, 2009)

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This will help with your box making journey. For solid lap joints,miters, or more. All you have to do is build it!. Thats the age I started and 15 years later I'm still at it. You never give it up once you start rolling.

accurate cutoff box


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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## jm82435 (Feb 26, 2008)

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Acorn? I thought everything in Canada had to have a maple leaf…jk. 
Interesting project. Did you know Lumberjocks ran a 2×4 contest a while back also; might check out some of those entries too. 
http://lumberjocks.com/awards/winter_2008/results/6


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## KMJohnsonow (Feb 16, 2010)

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Interesting contest.


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

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