# From Rust to Lust, can I bring it back?



## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*The Day I got it*

I have already posted in forums on this topic but I had a suggestion that this may be a good idea to update my restoration status as I go.

So I found this Rockwell/Delta 37-220 6" Jointer on CL the other day, asking $150, I drove 40 miles to look at it. Talked him down to $100 rather easily being it was missing the table out lock knob, the back door for the enclosed baseis also missing, as well as the beds being coated in rust, and the end of the cord has cardboard and electrical tape on it…


















I have the beds shining real nice and bright right now and the whole thing is disassembled. I put the beds in garbage bags with some oil right now. Now I either have to sand the base or find someone to sand blast it for me, which would be so much quicker. I also have to clean up the painted areas of the cast iron on the beds and what not. I'll also probably have to fabricate a door (of wood?) for the back of the enclosure to keep the motor running for the rest of my life by protecting it. The switch plate seems to be upside down since it is easier to turn it off and harder to turn it off.

Knives don't feel to bad or cut to bad but I'd like to start out with sharp ones, so I'll probably attempt to do them myself. I don't have much experience with this kind of sharpening, I was thinking of getting a whetstone? Any input is helpful.










I found a manual online that is for an older model but I think everything is the same except for the base. I know the motor is the original because it still had the factory Rockwell tag wired to it! I called Delta and they told me that this jointer was manufactured in April of 1969.

Any hints or help is much Welcomed, I'll try to get some pictures of the beds on here shortly and continue updating this blog. It'll be awhile as my mind strays to random scraps of wood sometimes. But there have already been countless times I wish it was all together and running.

Thanks for looking!


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *The Day I got it*
> 
> I have already posted in forums on this topic but I had a suggestion that this may be a good idea to update my restoration status as I go.
> 
> ...


http://toolmonger.com/2007/09/06/scary-sharp-tools-with-the-plate-glass-sharpening-system/
try this. They also have a fixture for holding your knives while sharpening them. I don't have time too look it up right now but it should work well for you and your jointer.

here is another option: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/58355

I found it pretty easy: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/55875


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *The Day I got it*
> 
> I have already posted in forums on this topic but I had a suggestion that this may be a good idea to update my restoration status as I go.
> 
> ...


Interesting stuff. Look forward to seeing your progress.

BTW if you put a ! at the beginning and end of each of those jpg url's you should get the pictures come up directly in the blog.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *The Day I got it*
> 
> I have already posted in forums on this topic but I had a suggestion that this may be a good idea to update my restoration status as I go.
> 
> ...


Grant,
Good to see you are blogging your progress. I'll be following as you go.

Can't wait to see this girl all dressed up!


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *The Day I got it*
> 
> I have already posted in forums on this topic but I had a suggestion that this may be a good idea to update my restoration status as I go.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to this series.

Here is how I sharpen jointer and planer knives.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Finally getting to it*

Just put some stripping jelly on the base tonight with a good scouring first. Scoured it after the jelly sat for awhile. Then I with my ROS I took some sandpaper discs out of retirement from the shop floor and removed what I could with them. I'll probably do it all again tomorrow and hit up the inside some too as well as work on the top.

I want to get the base finished and then worry about the tough part (leveling the beds and setting the knives).

Getting a little more excited now that I have some time to work on it, and I'll really like to have it for my next project. Thanks for looking.









Stripper soaking








After first scour and sanding.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Finally getting to it*
> 
> Just put some stripping jelly on the base tonight with a good scouring first. Scoured it after the jelly sat for awhile. Then I with my ROS I took some sandpaper discs out of retirement from the shop floor and removed what I could with them. I'll probably do it all again tomorrow and hit up the inside some too as well as work on the top.
> 
> ...


keep on keeping on.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Finally getting to it*
> 
> Just put some stripping jelly on the base tonight with a good scouring first. Scoured it after the jelly sat for awhile. Then I with my ROS I took some sandpaper discs out of retirement from the shop floor and removed what I could with them. I'll probably do it all again tomorrow and hit up the inside some too as well as work on the top.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing your process, progress & project of/from this "Old Iron"!!!!

I thought maybe the "Stripper Soaking" picture was going to be a little more risque!!


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Got a little faint from the paint...*

So I stripped it last night, and a little more tonight until it was R rated. Primed some parts and put some Rust-Oleum paint on it. Got all the cast iron top parts waiting on the saw horses for me tomorrow (they will haunt me with all of their curves to clean). Figured out I could get the metal tags off the pieces with a little work so I didn't have to tape them all off. I just have a sticker left on it that I dare not remove that is a list of patents that I think is pretty cool so I'll tape that off and work around it.

So far, lots of elbow grease and a little courage. Seems to be working.

O yeah, I would love to leave the garage door open when painting and priming, but not when it is blowing Dorthy out of Kansas and raining cats and dogs. Soooo…. make it quick and get outside for some fresh air!









Metal tags and strange little rivet things that i tapped out.








Daunting cast iron clean up job waiting for me.








Primed base.








Two coated base, switch plate, and red safety thingy that I don't see on any woodworkers jointer….hmm….


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Got a little faint from the paint...*
> 
> So I stripped it last night, and a little more tonight until it was R rated. Primed some parts and put some Rust-Oleum paint on it. Got all the cast iron top parts waiting on the saw horses for me tomorrow (they will haunt me with all of their curves to clean). Figured out I could get the metal tags off the pieces with a little work so I didn't have to tape them all off. I just have a sticker left on it that I dare not remove that is a list of patents that I think is pretty cool so I'll tape that off and work around it.
> 
> ...


Progress is looking good.
The reason you don't see the "Safety Thingy" is because once removed the operator lost ALL their fingers & could not put the "Safety Thingy" back on!!!


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## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Got a little faint from the paint...*
> 
> So I stripped it last night, and a little more tonight until it was R rated. Primed some parts and put some Rust-Oleum paint on it. Got all the cast iron top parts waiting on the saw horses for me tomorrow (they will haunt me with all of their curves to clean). Figured out I could get the metal tags off the pieces with a little work so I didn't have to tape them all off. I just have a sticker left on it that I dare not remove that is a list of patents that I think is pretty cool so I'll tape that off and work around it.
> 
> ...


That sucker is gonna be SWEET when you are done!


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Got a little faint from the paint...*
> 
> So I stripped it last night, and a little more tonight until it was R rated. Primed some parts and put some Rust-Oleum paint on it. Got all the cast iron top parts waiting on the saw horses for me tomorrow (they will haunt me with all of their curves to clean). Figured out I could get the metal tags off the pieces with a little work so I didn't have to tape them all off. I just have a sticker left on it that I dare not remove that is a list of patents that I think is pretty cool so I'll tape that off and work around it.
> 
> ...


I think galouts call that safety thingy a "lamb chop". If your feeling lucky, or reckless, it would bring a good price on the auction sites. Great job on the restore. Even in 1969, that machine would cost upwards of $1,000. You can see several restored examples and get a manual download on http://vintagemachinery.org/ Looking through your restore blog with interest.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Got a little faint from the paint...*
> 
> So I stripped it last night, and a little more tonight until it was R rated. Primed some parts and put some Rust-Oleum paint on it. Got all the cast iron top parts waiting on the saw horses for me tomorrow (they will haunt me with all of their curves to clean). Figured out I could get the metal tags off the pieces with a little work so I didn't have to tape them all off. I just have a sticker left on it that I dare not remove that is a list of patents that I think is pretty cool so I'll tape that off and work around it.
> 
> ...


This is really looking good. Great work!


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Edward Wire hands*

Spent about four hours in the garage today with a wire brush, wire attachment on my drill, and a 4" wire wheel on my Makita. Doesn't look like much to show for all that work but getting that paint off of cast iron and in all the little corners and grooves is tedious work. I think with another 1 1/2 hours of wire brushing I'll be ready to wipe it clean and tape off the appropriate areas.

I'm getting a lot of hours into this thing but I think I'll only have about $150-200 into it when I'm all said and done. Not bad for a solid piece of machinery and far cheaper than a new one of the same caliber. And I can say that I did it, that's worth something.

The brushed pieces waiting for the beds to join them for a good cleaning, priming and painting.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Edward Wire hands*
> 
> Spent about four hours in the garage today with a wire brush, wire attachment on my drill, and a 4" wire wheel on my Makita. Doesn't look like much to show for all that work but getting that paint off of cast iron and in all the little corners and grooves is tedious work. I think with another 1 1/2 hours of wire brushing I'll be ready to wipe it clean and tape off the appropriate areas.
> 
> ...


Keep up the good work!!! Anxiously awaiting more progress. No hurry, take a rest, you deserve it.

~

~

~

BREAK IS OVER!!! Where's the progress report??? Lol.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Edward Wire hands*
> 
> Spent about four hours in the garage today with a wire brush, wire attachment on my drill, and a 4" wire wheel on my Makita. Doesn't look like much to show for all that work but getting that paint off of cast iron and in all the little corners and grooves is tedious work. I think with another 1 1/2 hours of wire brushing I'll be ready to wipe it clean and tape off the appropriate areas.
> 
> ...


I may have missed it in your previous part. Did you mention the type of motor? Single or 3 phase? HP? Just wondering.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Edward Wire hands*
> 
> Spent about four hours in the garage today with a wire brush, wire attachment on my drill, and a 4" wire wheel on my Makita. Doesn't look like much to show for all that work but getting that paint off of cast iron and in all the little corners and grooves is tedious work. I think with another 1 1/2 hours of wire brushing I'll be ready to wipe it clean and tape off the appropriate areas.
> 
> ...


*DIY* I was really relieved to here you say take a break, I needed it…and then it was over. In all actuality, I retired from the garage for the evening to clean up the kitchen before the wife got home. Then I thought, My wonderful wife makes amazing food for me and occasionally I make some good food too. None the less, as I scrubbed the dishes I thought, I do this because she does things for me..I do things for her in the shop but she never cleans that up for me…on second thought, probably better that way, I'd never find my tools because they'd be where she "thought they belonged." Lol, just for fun.

You know *David* I haven't really looked into it….I will for my next post. Maybe then you can give me some input on what you think about what I have. Thanks for the interest.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Edward Wire hands*
> 
> Spent about four hours in the garage today with a wire brush, wire attachment on my drill, and a 4" wire wheel on my Makita. Doesn't look like much to show for all that work but getting that paint off of cast iron and in all the little corners and grooves is tedious work. I think with another 1 1/2 hours of wire brushing I'll be ready to wipe it clean and tape off the appropriate areas.
> 
> ...


I believe I read where the PO cut the plug off. If the lead has 3 wires then single phase, if 4 then 3-phase motor. I'm going to take a wild guess that you have a 1-1/2hp 1725rpm j66y frame 1ph, or 3-phase or motor has been replaced with a single phase, probably a Dayton. May have replaced a 3-phase. Big mag starter box in cabinet, then 3-phase. This may all be a moot point but if you don't have 3-phase power laying around, and if it is a 3-phase then add $150 for a VFD, or more to convert to single phase, if VFD is not the option you take. I use a broad brush on my guesses ;-)


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## RussInMichigan (Oct 15, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Edward Wire hands*
> 
> Spent about four hours in the garage today with a wire brush, wire attachment on my drill, and a 4" wire wheel on my Makita. Doesn't look like much to show for all that work but getting that paint off of cast iron and in all the little corners and grooves is tedious work. I think with another 1 1/2 hours of wire brushing I'll be ready to wipe it clean and tape off the appropriate areas.
> 
> ...


Nice blog. Thanks.

I found this reference for the 37-220.

http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/Rockwell/1964-Model_37-220_%20Jointer.pdf

Looking forward to other posts.

Russ


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Been busy working, where I get paid.*

Haven't done a whole lot lately, finished all the wire brushing and removing of the old pant and rust. I had to stop using the wire wheel when there was more wires flying off then paint. I got my use out of the $3 wire wheel. There's still some paint in those hard to reach places but It's better than it was.

Now I'm going to give everything a good wiping with some mineral spirits and tape off what's necessary and go to town with the spray cans.

I took some pictures of the tag on the motor for *DavidRoberts* to look at and for my own knowledge. It still needs to be cleaned up under there. And I'm missing the back door for the base but I have some 1/4" Birch that is looking good for that. And David I had plugged it in and used it prior to the restoration with 110v and it worked fine.

The tag says Rockwell Manufacturing Company, DUAL VOLTAGE SINGLE PHASE MOTOR - TO REVERSE ROTATION INTERCHANGE T5 & T8, 
MODEL: 62 -010
It's stamped 1/2 HP, 115/230 VOLTS, 1725 RPMS, 60 CYC, 7.8/3.9 AMP, 56-3 FRAME, SCS -TYPE, CLASS B,

I saw a newer Jet 6" jointer on CL this morning, $250, barely used, open base. Sometimes I wonder…Is it worth it…I guess mine might be more solid and look cooler. Help me out here, this is a good investment of time and money, right?


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Been busy working, where I get paid.*
> 
> Haven't done a whole lot lately, finished all the wire brushing and removing of the old pant and rust. I had to stop using the wire wheel when there was more wires flying off then paint. I got my use out of the $3 wire wheel. There's still some paint in those hard to reach places but It's better than it was.
> 
> ...


It probably isn't a good investment time/money wise but if you are enjoying the process it is still a worthwhile investment. Not to mention that you already have as much time and money into it as you already do both of which will be wasted if you back out now. It's a good looking machine so keep at it.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Been busy working, where I get paid.*
> 
> Haven't done a whole lot lately, finished all the wire brushing and removing of the old pant and rust. I had to stop using the wire wheel when there was more wires flying off then paint. I got my use out of the $3 wire wheel. There's still some paint in those hard to reach places but It's better than it was.
> 
> ...


To me …any old tool is worth the time. Bringing back a good tool to the way it once was is what I ENJOY. (What price to we put on enjoyment) ?
Anybody can "buy" a brand new shiny one, only a "few" people want to restore them.
Pictures of what you finished will be appreciated !


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 11, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Been busy working, where I get paid.*
> 
> Haven't done a whole lot lately, finished all the wire brushing and removing of the old pant and rust. I had to stop using the wire wheel when there was more wires flying off then paint. I got my use out of the $3 wire wheel. There's still some paint in those hard to reach places but It's better than it was.
> 
> ...


IMO it is worth the time n effort, you will know every nut, bolt, screw, and every piece of the tool. How many people know that much about their machines. Plus you gotta admit their is a fun factor to restoring an old tool, when it is done and in your shop and you stand back and look at it you will be pleased. I did this with a delta bandsaw and it gives me great joy when I use it. Kudos to you for doing the restore, and have fun working with your hands and making something old new again! You can't put a price on the satisfaction of the completed project.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Been busy working, where I get paid.*
> 
> Haven't done a whole lot lately, finished all the wire brushing and removing of the old pant and rust. I had to stop using the wire wheel when there was more wires flying off then paint. I got my use out of the $3 wire wheel. There's still some paint in those hard to reach places but It's better than it was.
> 
> ...


Hey GlennsGrandson, well no 3 phase under the hood so I can't persuade you in the VFD ways. Probably for the best. They are a piece of electronics that will eventually go bad. And really no need to rewire to 220/240V for 1/2 horse, so no new circuit breaker, plug or outlet. 110/120V will give it plenty of power. If the motor doesn't make a sound like rocks in a can, or squeal, the bearing ought to last you a while longer. Same for the cutterhead bearings. However if you have the cutterhead off you may want to install new bearings now. They are easy to get to on the bench. I doubt the PO went to the trouble to change out the bearings, I'm just sayin. Even if the bearings don't grind or squeal, the lubrication has dried out. Maybe a little relubrication is good for now. You are so close I can just taste a finished restoration. Don't be discouraged by CL listings. They come and go. I'd take the Delta you have over a later model Jet any day of the week, hands down. The Delta is just a better made, more robust machine. I started out buying older equipment because of budget constraints, but quickly learned the older machines were designed and built to outlast you and me. I can promise that Delta ointer will be the first machine you and people look at in your shop, until of course you restore another oldie but goodie. Now hurry along and finish, and take tons of pics.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Tedious Tape-up... and jigs? Bed/Fence protection??*

Hello again, I've got quite a bit accomplished since my last post, but it took much longer than anticipated. I had to finish cleaning a few little pieces here and there and wipe off the never ending paint dust with mineral spirits. Once I'd clean a piece I'd tape it off, lots of masking tape and razor blades. The only pieces I have left are the pieces of the head. I have to clean up the head yet and probably replace the bearings, they felt good and sounded good but they probably are dry. The motor makes no odd sounds, right now. So now I have to get the head apart, sharpen the knives, although they are still sharp enough to cut my fingers while cleaning it (why didn't I remove the knives you ask, because I don't have a wrench thin enough to get in there right now).

Hopefully this weekend I can get it put together at least to the point where I can level the beds.

Question: What do I put on my fence and beds to keep them from rusting since there's no protection from the elements there?

Tape, newspaper, and mineral spirits.








Tape








More Tape








Even more tedious taping…








My parts after some fresh pain in the sun and 80 degree S. Dakota weather








Doing a little….jigging?


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Tedious Tape-up... and jigs? Bed/Fence protection??*
> 
> Hello again, I've got quite a bit accomplished since my last post, but it took much longer than anticipated. I had to finish cleaning a few little pieces here and there and wipe off the never ending paint dust with mineral spirits. Once I'd clean a piece I'd tape it off, lots of masking tape and razor blades. The only pieces I have left are the pieces of the head. I have to clean up the head yet and probably replace the bearings, they felt good and sounded good but they probably are dry. The motor makes no odd sounds, right now. So now I have to get the head apart, sharpen the knives, although they are still sharp enough to cut my fingers while cleaning it (why didn't I remove the knives you ask, because I don't have a wrench thin enough to get in there right now).
> 
> ...


Progress looks good, as do the pieces parts!!!

For rust protection for the fence and beds (and any unpainted metal), Johnson's Paste wax comes highly recommended and is what I use. It also makes them "slickery", to aid in feeding wood stock!!!

Looking forward to seeing some chips flying!!!


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Tedious Tape-up... and jigs? Bed/Fence protection??*
> 
> Hello again, I've got quite a bit accomplished since my last post, but it took much longer than anticipated. I had to finish cleaning a few little pieces here and there and wipe off the never ending paint dust with mineral spirits. Once I'd clean a piece I'd tape it off, lots of masking tape and razor blades. The only pieces I have left are the pieces of the head. I have to clean up the head yet and probably replace the bearings, they felt good and sounded good but they probably are dry. The motor makes no odd sounds, right now. So now I have to get the head apart, sharpen the knives, although they are still sharp enough to cut my fingers while cleaning it (why didn't I remove the knives you ask, because I don't have a wrench thin enough to get in there right now).
> 
> ...


Love the use of the HF mailer as masking, but I could use that 20% off coupon!


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Tedious Tape-up... and jigs? Bed/Fence protection??*
> 
> Hello again, I've got quite a bit accomplished since my last post, but it took much longer than anticipated. I had to finish cleaning a few little pieces here and there and wipe off the never ending paint dust with mineral spirits. Once I'd clean a piece I'd tape it off, lots of masking tape and razor blades. The only pieces I have left are the pieces of the head. I have to clean up the head yet and probably replace the bearings, they felt good and sounded good but they probably are dry. The motor makes no odd sounds, right now. So now I have to get the head apart, sharpen the knives, although they are still sharp enough to cut my fingers while cleaning it (why didn't I remove the knives you ask, because I don't have a wrench thin enough to get in there right now).
> 
> ...


*DIY* I think I'll try that paste wax, looks affordable with good reviews.

*crshn* Haha, glad you recognized it! Get me your address, you may just receive a piece of machine grey Rust-oleum covered piece of newspaper by now though.


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Tedious Tape-up... and jigs? Bed/Fence protection??*
> 
> Hello again, I've got quite a bit accomplished since my last post, but it took much longer than anticipated. I had to finish cleaning a few little pieces here and there and wipe off the never ending paint dust with mineral spirits. Once I'd clean a piece I'd tape it off, lots of masking tape and razor blades. The only pieces I have left are the pieces of the head. I have to clean up the head yet and probably replace the bearings, they felt good and sounded good but they probably are dry. The motor makes no odd sounds, right now. So now I have to get the head apart, sharpen the knives, although they are still sharp enough to cut my fingers while cleaning it (why didn't I remove the knives you ask, because I don't have a wrench thin enough to get in there right now).
> 
> ...


hehe. I wonder if they would still take it like that


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Polishing Cast Iron beds?*

Any good ideas on how to polish my open cast iron bed and fences? I've cleaned them up real nice but I really want them to shine before I coat them in wax or whatever route I go.

Do I use fine grit sand paper, wet, dry? buffing wheel?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks much!


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Polishing Cast Iron beds?*
> 
> Any good ideas on how to polish my open cast iron bed and fences? I've cleaned them up real nice but I really want them to shine before I coat them in wax or whatever route I go.
> 
> ...


You might want to look at the Sandflex blocks. Amazon sells them but there are places (Klingspoor) with better pricing. There are videos out there and these appear to do a great job at restoring cast iron beds.


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## Gpops (Dec 20, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Polishing Cast Iron beds?*
> 
> Any good ideas on how to polish my open cast iron bed and fences? I've cleaned them up real nice but I really want them to shine before I coat them in wax or whatever route I go.
> 
> ...


Give this a try. I have used Bosch Abrasive Mesh Discs for surface conditioning applications on my Bosch 6" random orbit sander/ polisher with Mineral Spirits for a lubricant in well ventilated area. The pads look like 3M Scotch pads on steroids with hook and loop on one side. The cast iron beds polish up like new. I have used the pads on, band saw tables , table saw, scroll saw tables etc. Just keep going over and over wiping off the rust between coats of mineral Spirits.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*When Disaster Strikes...We improvise.*

Wow, what an afternoon yesterday. I'm finally getting to see things shape up when I was removing the masking tape. Then I get to the tape that was covering the PATENT sticker that I couldn't remove… I'd had the masking tape on too long and when I was removing the tape, along came the sticker…










So naturally I was upset…very upset. It's not like this little sticker would at all affect how my machine works but.. My Grandpa has two main hobbies, wood working and automobile restoration. I've had the great opportunity to completely restore a 1963 Buick Le Sabre sedan with him (which is now mine). During that process I learned how important keeping things original was to me and my Grandpa. I hadn't realized how much that it affected me until I ripped off this little patent sticker. Who cares right? I care.

So I happened to be looking at OWWM site the other day thanks to *DavidRoberts* and stumbled across a patent sticker that someone had replicated on there computer. Identical. But the size and color was wrong. So I figured out the size I need it to be (37% of the original) and matched the color with my computer.



















It may not be perfect but it's darn close. Now I just have to figure out how to protect it as it is printed on 24# 100% cotton resume paper. I was thinking maybe clear coat the paper by it self and then figure out some sort of glue to attach it the the piece itself. Or glue it on, tape it off so only the new sticker is exposed and then coat it…probably the better option.

I put a few of the metal plates back on.




























And took some more tape off of the adjustment wheels and switch cover.










And Then I felt something really really bugging me…I hadn't touched the inside of the base and I knew if I left it the way it was it would always haunt me every time I used it or looked at it. So I flipped it upside down, took the motor out and started wire brushing (I thought I was done with that). The paint on the motor looks pretty good so I think I'll just polish that up and leave it. But the rest of it needs to be cleaned up a bit and get some Rust-Oleum primer and at least one coat of paint. Speaking of the paint, the paint that was untouched on the inside is nearly identical to the kind I'm using so I'm pretty happy about that. So here are a couple of shots of the base inside and the motor removed.



















I did hook up the motor while it was sitting on my bench and start it up to listen to it, it sounds GREAT, it just hummmms right along.




























So I can breath easier knowing that I'll be able to reference the patents whenever I need while in my shop, haha. A little more elbow grease, primer, paint, pulley adjustments, leveling, new bearings…wow, I have a lot left to do..

As always thanks for looking, any advise on adhesives to attach the new patent paper to the piece would be great. Have a good weekend LJ's!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *When Disaster Strikes...We improvise.*
> 
> Wow, what an afternoon yesterday. I'm finally getting to see things shape up when I was removing the masking tape. Then I get to the tape that was covering the PATENT sticker that I couldn't remove… I'd had the masking tape on too long and when I was removing the tape, along came the sticker…
> 
> ...


I don't have anything in the line of help. I just wanted to say the patent "sticker" looks great. Nice save!!!

Your restoration is looking great and moving along nicely. Anxiously, awaiting chips a flying. But don't rush, "Haste makes Waste". Good luck with the rest of your restore!!!


----------



## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *When Disaster Strikes...We improvise.*
> 
> Wow, what an afternoon yesterday. I'm finally getting to see things shape up when I was removing the masking tape. Then I get to the tape that was covering the PATENT sticker that I couldn't remove… I'd had the masking tape on too long and when I was removing the tape, along came the sticker…
> 
> ...


You are doing an outstanding job on the restoration. These old machines are great and well worth going through.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *When Disaster Strikes...We improvise.*
> 
> Wow, what an afternoon yesterday. I'm finally getting to see things shape up when I was removing the masking tape. Then I get to the tape that was covering the PATENT sticker that I couldn't remove… I'd had the masking tape on too long and when I was removing the tape, along came the sticker…
> 
> ...


I can just imagine what it feels like to bring this great machine back to life. Good work!


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## andysden (Oct 12, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *When Disaster Strikes...We improvise.*
> 
> Wow, what an afternoon yesterday. I'm finally getting to see things shape up when I was removing the masking tape. Then I get to the tape that was covering the PATENT sticker that I couldn't remove… I'd had the masking tape on too long and when I was removing the tape, along came the sticker…
> 
> ...


What a nice job why not use a vinyl sticker material through your printer for the patent sticker . Andy


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## Rob_n_Wood (Mar 25, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *When Disaster Strikes...We improvise.*
> 
> Wow, what an afternoon yesterday. I'm finally getting to see things shape up when I was removing the masking tape. Then I get to the tape that was covering the PATENT sticker that I couldn't remove… I'd had the masking tape on too long and when I was removing the tape, along came the sticker…
> 
> ...


Great save with the patent sticker 
It truly is nice to give our tools a second chance. 
You have done a nice job 
Congrats


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Some Assembly Required*

Got a decent amount done this weekend on the old 1969 Rockwell/Delta 37-220 Jointer. Started assembling and leveling the top. Getting the head cleaned up. Waxed the beds and fence with Johnsons Paste Wax. Wire wheeled the inside of the base and a couple of other small parts that were hiding under a HF ad. Primed them, painted them. Now Maybe another quick coat of paint tomorrow before I go to work and we can finally start assembling.

I am having a professional sharpen my knives for me for now (Until I get into the next sharpening class here). I feel I should change the bearings on this thing, but I'll need a puller to get them replaced, I can rent one from Advanced Auto and do that. I'm getting kind of lazy now and really anxious to cut so it's hard for me to do the bearings…but since I've taken every nut, bolt, washer, and roll pin out of this thing I'll have to do it to be happy and I wouldn't want it to screw up any important pieces I'm working on.

Also, I was looking at the belt today and noticed it said ROCKWELL on it, so either it's the original or they ordered it from them. Which I thought would be odd since most shops would carry several similar belts (And the motor has a wide range of adjustment) and be quicker than ordering one. The belt looks good too so maybe this thing hardly got used. The blades are fairly sharp the way they are except for the front edge of all of them, must be were it was used the most. I also read the manual I downloaded front to back today (I should've done that a month ago.) Funny enough the manual said this is a light but rugged machine…weighing in at just a mere 220 lbs. Here are a few pics to browse through.

The inside of the base (look at my last post for comparison), this was rather tricky to to paint due to tight quarters in there. There are a few runs but it's on the inside and much better than the old paint and rust, besides it won't be looked at much in there and is just as much for preservation of the metal anyhow.



















The Patent "sticker" that I fashioned to replace the one that I ruined. Coated with three coats of clear gloss Rust-Oleum, glued on with CA glue, worked well.










Interestingly enough I was measuring the belt today and I noticed that it actually said ROCKWELL CAT. NO. 530 MADE IN U.S.A. on it. Original??



















Look at the shine on them beds!! Thank you Johnsons Paste Wax!










It took a bit of tinkering to get it level, I'll have to do it again once I get the head in there so the out table is level with the tops of my knives.










Questions, comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism welcome.
Thanks again for looking, have a good week everyone!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Some Assembly Required*
> 
> Got a decent amount done this weekend on the old 1969 Rockwell/Delta 37-220 Jointer. Started assembling and leveling the top. Getting the head cleaned up. Waxed the beds and fence with Johnsons Paste Wax. Wire wheeled the inside of the base and a couple of other small parts that were hiding under a HF ad. Primed them, painted them. Now Maybe another quick coat of paint tomorrow before I go to work and we can finally start assembling.
> 
> ...


Seeing it going together must be very gratifying. You have done/are doing a great job. It is looking great!!


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Some Assembly Required*
> 
> Got a decent amount done this weekend on the old 1969 Rockwell/Delta 37-220 Jointer. Started assembling and leveling the top. Getting the head cleaned up. Waxed the beds and fence with Johnsons Paste Wax. Wire wheeled the inside of the base and a couple of other small parts that were hiding under a HF ad. Primed them, painted them. Now Maybe another quick coat of paint tomorrow before I go to work and we can finally start assembling.
> 
> ...


Looks great. Good job on the tags and lables. Did you take them off to paint or tape over? You got quite a ways done on the painting and paste wax. Painting and rust removal is half the time spent on most of these restores. Actually looking for parts can take years. Replacing bearings and belts is a no brainer at this point. Be like Nike and just do it. Just a thought, HF has a set of four pullers on sale :

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/4-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-40965.html

Probably cheaper than a day rental. Even the inside of factory painted cabinets has the occasional run. I've got at least one small run on the outside of all my restores! Well I sand those bad boys down and touch up, but I know where they are. That for hussling it up and taking pics! Your gonna love the day you take that face on pic then all those angle pics of the finished restore. Make sure the garage door is behind the jointer on at least one of the shots. It's customary you know.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Some Assembly Required*
> 
> Got a decent amount done this weekend on the old 1969 Rockwell/Delta 37-220 Jointer. Started assembling and leveling the top. Getting the head cleaned up. Waxed the beds and fence with Johnsons Paste Wax. Wire wheeled the inside of the base and a couple of other small parts that were hiding under a HF ad. Primed them, painted them. Now Maybe another quick coat of paint tomorrow before I go to work and we can finally start assembling.
> 
> ...


I took the tags off, at first I thought that they were rivets but the didn't go all the way through and I was able to tap the strange little fasteners out. I'll look into the HF puller, every great once in awhile I find myself needing one. There will definitely be some pics in front of the garage same as the first day I had it, hopefully with a mobile base on it.


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## chuck24 (Jun 8, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Some Assembly Required*
> 
> Got a decent amount done this weekend on the old 1969 Rockwell/Delta 37-220 Jointer. Started assembling and leveling the top. Getting the head cleaned up. Waxed the beds and fence with Johnsons Paste Wax. Wire wheeled the inside of the base and a couple of other small parts that were hiding under a HF ad. Primed them, painted them. Now Maybe another quick coat of paint tomorrow before I go to work and we can finally start assembling.
> 
> ...


Man!!! I gotta say I just read your whole blog on this restoration and I am speachless. I barely had the beds de greased before I started running some boards through my 20?? DeltaX 6" jointer. You Sir, will have a beast of a machine when it is done. Look forward to the rest of the story and your results!


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Looks complete, but it isn't.*

Just need the new bearings and the knives sharpened, hopefully chips flying by the end of next week! Oh, and I need to make a back door yet. It grew wheels. Got the set of pullers from Harbor Freight yesterday, 4 different sizes, $25, works great. Got the casters from HF too, had to drill out the prexisting 3/8" holes to 1/2" to accomadate the casters. Two locking in the front and two freely moving on the back.



















Pullers and head with bearings


















Somethings missing…


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Looks complete, but it isn't.*
> 
> Just need the new bearings and the knives sharpened, hopefully chips flying by the end of next week! Oh, and I need to make a back door yet. It grew wheels. Got the set of pullers from Harbor Freight yesterday, 4 different sizes, $25, works great. Got the casters from HF too, had to drill out the prexisting 3/8" holes to 1/2" to accomadate the casters. Two locking in the front and two freely moving on the back.
> 
> ...


Lust is the right word. That beautiful.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Looks complete, but it isn't.*
> 
> Just need the new bearings and the knives sharpened, hopefully chips flying by the end of next week! Oh, and I need to make a back door yet. It grew wheels. Got the set of pullers from Harbor Freight yesterday, 4 different sizes, $25, works great. Got the casters from HF too, had to drill out the prexisting 3/8" holes to 1/2" to accomadate the casters. Two locking in the front and two freely moving on the back.
> 
> ...


Your doing a great job .


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Looks complete, but it isn't.*
> 
> Just need the new bearings and the knives sharpened, hopefully chips flying by the end of next week! Oh, and I need to make a back door yet. It grew wheels. Got the set of pullers from Harbor Freight yesterday, 4 different sizes, $25, works great. Got the casters from HF too, had to drill out the prexisting 3/8" holes to 1/2" to accomadate the casters. Two locking in the front and two freely moving on the back.
> 
> ...


you should be proud. me likey.


----------



## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Looks complete, but it isn't.*
> 
> Just need the new bearings and the knives sharpened, hopefully chips flying by the end of next week! Oh, and I need to make a back door yet. It grew wheels. Got the set of pullers from Harbor Freight yesterday, 4 different sizes, $25, works great. Got the casters from HF too, had to drill out the prexisting 3/8" holes to 1/2" to accomadate the casters. Two locking in the front and two freely moving on the back.
> 
> ...


Looks great.
I have a older Jointer also. I did not like the way the wood looked after I ran it over the knifes. Saw a advertisement in Grizzly for sprial cutter heads. They did not what I needed, but the Byrd Tool Company did. They worked with me on the size I needed and the bearing I needed. They installed the bearings and it worked out great. Not hard to change. The machine is quieter and leaves a very smooth surface, which I like. Nice people to work with. They are a USA company.
http://www.byrdtool.com/


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *Looks complete, but it isn't.*
> 
> Just need the new bearings and the knives sharpened, hopefully chips flying by the end of next week! Oh, and I need to make a back door yet. It grew wheels. Got the set of pullers from Harbor Freight yesterday, 4 different sizes, $25, works great. Got the casters from HF too, had to drill out the prexisting 3/8" holes to 1/2" to accomadate the casters. Two locking in the front and two freely moving on the back.
> 
> ...


Those spiral heads look awesome, all though for right now I'll try the knives since the spiral for mine is $350 (Cheapest of all of them) and would be trippleing my investment with this thing. Someday, someday..

Thanks


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*

I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.

On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


If they have the rubber seals on them, you can carefully remove the seals … thoroughly clean the bearings, inside & out … repack with fresh grease … go ahead and run them … you MIGHT not even need new ones after this procedure … it's worth a try … I've done it LOTS of times when I was in your predicament.

NOTE : DO NOT be tempted to use compressed air to spin the cleaned bearings dry … it will ruin them in a few seconds.


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## Bob817 (Nov 17, 2011)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Glenn, How's that Bandsaw coming along, does it run smooth? Was the Manual included?


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


I saw your restored jointer. Great job. It will last you forever, or until you find an old 12"er you get the itch to restore. If you haven't already, and if you continue this sliding down a slippery slope madness, I must insist you visit

http://vintagemachinery.org/

Registration is free and easy, like me, and you will be among friends and like kind. Even if you don't register you can click the Discussion Forums tab on the selection bar and find your way to Old Woodworking Machines. If you get sidetracked for hours in other forum, we understand. In the OWM forum the forth post down is fixed to the top by the administrator as a service to it's members It is titled Ordering Bearings From Accurate Bearing - Please Read by Jamie Norwood. This post is a treasure and should be read and understood by anyone restoring old machines that require bearing replacements…and they all do. I guess you could call Accurate Bearings the official bearing replacement company of OWWM.

I would post some information from the post but out of respect, you should go read it yourself. Let us know what you think.

Edit, oops I forgot I had mentioned OWWM in a previous blog of yours I was just persuing a few moments ago. Sorry for the repeat, but the Accurate Bearing post by Jamie is a must read.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Thank you *Fuzzy* I will definitely try that, it sounds like a no brainer to give it a whirl.

*Bob817* The bandsaw looks and works amazing! And yes the manual, three blades, the fence, and base all came with it. Although the motor pulley is out of alignment with the saw pulley by about 3/16" but I can adjust that. It's done a real number on the belt, I'll need a new one. (check out my next project post, lol, more of a joke than anything, but I'm proud of it)

*DavidRoberts* I am actually already a member of VM and OWWM. But…I only did it to find specific things about my jointer off the bat and never fully explored the sites. I will check out the bearing site for sure. Thank you so very much for all the help and compliments along the way


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## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


just as a side note, bearing are one of those products that are counterfeited, make sure you buy from a reputable dealer. Just because it has a reputable brand name on it does not mean it's the real deal.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Some of those bearings are made with an offset in the inner or outer race, and can be replaced by a bearing
that is straight and using machine bushings to achieve the offset. We have two places that specialize in 
bearings here, Applied Industrial and Motion Industries, they have all the books and measurements, so I was
able to save quite a few dollars and a weeks waiting by using standard bearings, do not know if this will work
for you, but it is worth checking out.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Grant, are you talking about the bearings from the rockwell jointer? I think i paid around $40 for the cutter head bearings, i might still have the email from the manufacturer i got them from if youre interested. I had to use a bearing puller to get them out and had my father in law mill me a piece of round stock to punch them back in with. It went really easy for my first ever bearing replacement.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Grant, i found the email … here it is:

Hi Chris, 
We do have these items in stock. 
87502 $7.17/ea. 
87503 $7.45/ea. 
Please let us know if we can be of any help to you.

THANKS, 
DANIELLE
BEARING BROKERS INC. 
PH. 800-248-9113
FAX 800-785-7283
[email protected]


----------



## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Wow *Chrisstef*, That's awesome, I'm definitely going to emal him. Those bearing numbers are one number off but maybe they're the same. I did have to but a bearing/pulley puller to get them off, I figured I'd dig around in my sockets until I find the perfect deep well to get them back on.

Thanks again!


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Im glad i could help, $48 is way too much for bearings in my book. I still may have the inside and outside dimensions of the pipe i had milled, ill take a look when i get home tonight. I just put a little bit of white lithium grease on em and punched them down, easy as pie, and runs nice n smooth.


----------



## FeralVermonter (Jan 1, 2013)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Awesome series. Starting on the same adventure myself: day two of grinding away rust.

Congrats! (And thanks for sharing your experience, it's a big help!)


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

GlennsGrandson said:


> *These bearings cost HOW MUCH?!*
> 
> I took the bearings in to a local auto store to check on replaceing them (Bearing #:8502-k and 8503-k). They want $48 a piece for them! Wowzas. I found them online after S&H for about $63 total. I tihnk I'll do that. But then I am getting antsy and the company told me they are a special order part so it'd probably be 3 weeks before they even ship! So my dilema is that I want to cut now, but don't want to spend $100. So I was talking to my dad and he suggested if they weren't to hard to take on and off put the old ones back on until the new ones arrive.. They feel smooth and tight so I think I'll do that. Finally got some time that I can take my knives to the sharpening shop (They run bankers hours). So those should be done soon as well. Patience.
> 
> On a side note, I bought a Craftsman Model # 113.248321 12" tilting head bandsaw off of CL today for $50. The lady said he hardly used it, just needs a little cleaning.


Those old Delta bearings were made so that the race extended out one side beyond the race. They can be
replaced with regular sealed ball bearing with the same ID-OD and bearing race width. To space the bearings
properly on the shaft, pay close attention when taking them off and measure carefully, you can use machine
bushings on the side of the bearing that the race extends out. The regular bearings cost considerably less and
work just as good. In some cases the offset does not serve any real purpose that I could discover and can be
ignored.


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