# Any bright ideas on how to open blast gate behind saw?



## Jackietreehorn (Feb 3, 2013)

In my previous setup I used a couple long rods and basic fulcrum points. In my new setup, the gate is now directly behind the saw so I have to make my levers work around a 90 degree corner. This is all I could come up with in a rough sketch, basically a notch that is angled that directs the other arm to move… Probably take me a while to build it while I scratch my head along the way. Thought maybe someone had some other way that would save me a lot of r&d. Thanks in advance!








As you can see my table is a bit big so there's no easy access from left or right of saw


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## DLCW (Feb 18, 2011)

Put it further up the line towards the DC. I have a setup similar to what is pictured and my blast gate is at eye level and easy to get to. After the gate is a splitter that goes to the main dust port at the bottom of the cabinet saw and the other goes to a smaller hose attached to blade guard with dust collection built in.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I hope you come up with something. I'm tired of reaching behind the saw!


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

What are you connecting at the gate - a flexible hose, or a rigid pipe?

Where does that pipe/hose go to? What about leaving the gate on the saw open, and installing another gate at an accessible point in the pipe/hose run? On my shop the table saw dust port is also on the back of the saw. From the port I ran a few feet of flex hose to get round to the front right corner of the table, then a run of metal pipe goes straight up to the ceiling, and the blast gate is about shoulder height on that pipe. One of my shop photos shows it.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

before I got my cabinet saw, I had this old craftsman, see the threaded rod is attached to the door on the blast gate. Pull to open, push to close.


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## Jackietreehorn (Feb 3, 2013)

Because of room behind saw, the gate will have to be attached to saw, then a small section of flex, maybe a foot long and then to rigid pipe. The gate can't go anywhere else, mainly cause I wasn't planning on upgrading collection system when I started to design the new table. If I put it farther down the line it'd cut off the router table, or both saw and router would be open at same time.

Once I started building new table I started reading more about dust collection and decided to upgrade which means shoehorning a lot of stuff in limited space. Had I thought about it prior the story would be much different. Big doh! On my part.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe wire cable on each side of the saw, one to open and the

other to close.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

If you can find a choke cable at your auto parts store, you could rig it to open/close the blast gate with a push/pull action. Once you have the choke cable, it will become obvious how to rig it. http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/choke-cables


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

pneumatic is the way to go of your mechanically inclined.






You can buy them pre made, but they can get pretty pricey.


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## Jackietreehorn (Feb 3, 2013)

Pneumatic sounds neat for cool factor, I can imagine parts could add up though. I like the cable idea, but was hoping to not spend any $$ if I can help it cause I blew budget from get go. I'll call my hot rod buddy and see if he's got extra cable somewhere.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@Tony. I like the air cylinder idea. Very nice. Luckily for me, I only have two blast gates and they are both within easy reach behind my saw.


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## stevepeterson (Dec 17, 2009)

How about moving the blast gate further downstream? Is there another location that provides better access?


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I wonder if a bicycle hand brake would work. You could spring load it fairly easy.


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## cathode (May 18, 2014)

I really like those pneumatic ones… and small air cylinders like that are a dime a dozen on ebay. The fittings are what come around to bite you though. A few bucks each doesn't seem like much but it adds up quick.


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## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

Just don't do half measures, it costs more in the long run. A small can for each project. Add a few coins to each when you empty your pockets. I have bought some great tools that I otherwise could not afford by using that system. Never leave the house with coins in your pocket.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

Jackietreehorn,

Check out http://www.surpluscenter.com/ for the various pneumatic bits.

A few hours of tinkering should get what you need. An electric solenoid and a spring might also work.


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## Jackietreehorn (Feb 3, 2013)

I do have some leftover motors and acme rod, suppose I could build my own linear actuator… I'll have to dig through my bin of goodies to see what I have. I'll keep you all updated, great ideas!!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

If you have an auto junk yard that allows you to pick your own parts, you can find choke cables for next to nothing. The hood release is a cable actuated application. There are many places where push/pull cables are used.


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## Rayne (Mar 9, 2014)

How about installing a lever to your existing setup attached to the vertical lever, but have a pivot point in the new lever move left or right. It wouldn't cost much, if any, and would be able to accommodate your new setup. Just an idea. Sorry for the quick MS Paint work; I don't design much; I just imagine things in my head and work as I go. lol.


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## Jackietreehorn (Feb 3, 2013)

That actually would work, originally my mind was stuck on going front to back to open and close because of the old setup was that way due to limited room. New setup gas more space, not a lot but that can be fixed with pivot points. I should check the junk pile for any cables cause that might be quicker than building levers. Pretty sure there's an old tractor out back that should have a cable or two…


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## dontrushme (Jul 23, 2012)

In one of the woodworking magazines (sorry, don't remember which), it showed the use of a plastic pipe attached to the saw, with a speedometer cable going through it. The front end, at the front of the saw, the speedometer had a knob attached to it, and the back end of the cable was attached to the blast gate. He pulled the knob to open the gate, and pushed the knob to close the gate. Simple, cheap and effective. In his case he only needed two 45° ells to manage changes in direction.


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## wiwildcat (Jan 10, 2013)

Just an idea, but what about using a push lawn mower throttle cable (the type with the lever that adjust mower speed) that is modified to open the gate. Not sure how well it would work but maybe worth a try.


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## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

Consider how boats are steered by turnig the wheel. A simular system might work in your situation.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Lots of cables here. http://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=control+cables
Here's another idea: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Relays-Contactors-Solenoids/Electromechanical-Solenoids/12-VDC-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-PUSH-PULL-SOLENOID-11-3346.axd


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Just thinking…your setup will probably prove to be aggravating when the dust jams the grooves in the blast gate. I hope your gate is self cleaning. Ever so often, I have to take my manifold apart and clean the grooves. I am seriously considering an aluminum self cleaning gate. But, I can reach mine from the side so it is not too much of a hassle.

Good luck.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Lots of cables here. http://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=control+cables
> Here s another idea: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Relays-Contactors-Solenoids/Electromechanical-Solenoids/12-VDC-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-PUSH-PULL-SOLENOID-11-3346.axd
> 
> - MrRon


Thanks for posting those links. I already have ideas popping into my pea brain on how I could use that power lock thing.
Mike


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Thanks for posting those links. I already have ideas popping into my pea brain on how I could use that power lock thing.
Mike
The stroke is only .865", so you would have to devise some sort of linkage to increase the stroke. Since this is a 12VDC devise, you could get a plug-in 110VAC to 12VDC converter. Surplus Center also has a great selection of pneumatic cylinders that could also be used with a linkage to open/close the gate, but a source of air would have to be supplied. I think the manual push/pull choke cable is the simplest and cheapest solution.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

Not cheap but install operation is a dream.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3871


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## Jackietreehorn (Feb 3, 2013)

I've toyed with the door lock actuator idea, I think 20" arm the pivot point needs to be 2" away from power source of actuator. I think that's a lot of work for the little actuator, that's getting up there in the territory of old ford mustang door locks…
I've bookmarked that surplus center site just for all the goodies it has that could come in handy in future. I just got around yesterday with trying to line things up and ran out of time. Next weekend is wasted so it'll be a while till I get to conjure up anything.


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## bobkberg (Dec 26, 2009)

All my blast gates are upstream where I can reach them! Usually wall mount, but main point is: where I can reach them.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I like the cable idea. On ebay I just saw a Ram truck hood release cable $18 with free shipping. It should be good and long and has a nice lever on the end you pull. I don't know if it's long enough though.


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