# Finishing quarter sawm teak veneer on mdf



## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

I was thinking of using waterlox sealer 
But then I saw general finishes oil too.

I was going to use a foam brush.

I have never finished anything in my life, and this is going to be on $7,000 worth of veneer and mdf on my kitchen..

My initial thought was to pay somebody to spray it 
But now I am thinking that this is a great opportunity for me to learn how to finish


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

Also will it be blotchy? Or is that only on plywood?
And the veneer is 1/42" and is being put on by superior veneer in Indiana. 
Should I just have them put the wood veneer directly into the mdf? Or should they add some sort of backer?


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Sound like this is over your head. Maybe hire a pro before you learn the hard way. Unless that's the way you roll.
Good luck


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

1. Where will it be used in your kitchen? A table? How will it be edged? I ask because I'm curious why you are not applying it to plywood. If there is any chance that it is going to get wet I'd use plywood vs mdf. If the name of the company is "Superior Veneer" then they know what to do and how to apply it.

2. The oak is a hardwood and won't be blotchy like soft woods like pine or poplar.

3. If you've never finished anything in your life I assume that means you don't have a lot of finishing supplies. I'll tell you what I would do with the disclaimer that *there are a lot of people here who are experts that should give their opinion. * But if you want to give it a try…...

*Find some scrap to practice on.* Lightly sand with 220 if needed. Use a vacuum or compressed air to blow off the dust and if necessary wipe with mineral spirits. If you wipe with water you will raise the grain and will just need to give it one last sanding. Buy cans of Deft gloss and one can of semi gloss at Home Depot and a spray handle. Follow the directions on the can. 3 or 4 coats with a half hour between coats. Use the semi gloss for the last coat. Wetsand with 400. Buff and wax.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

I looked into spraying, but did not like relying on learning something new. Meaning, I have painted hundreds of rooms, trim and other projects. I am an excellent painter.

I have watched several videos on YouTube.
I also am a very patient and tedious person.

Brushing on oil does not seem to be too difficult as long as I don't put too much on.

My plan was to 
1.sand with 220 using festool random orbit.
2.Compressor air + alcohol to clean
3.Use foam brush to apply front side
4.Wait One day 
5.Use foam brush to apply back side
6.Wait One day 
7.Use foam brush to apply to edgebanding 
8.Wait One day
9.Lightly sand going with grain, by hand, with 400
10. Apply coats again.
11. Sand with 400 grit if needed to remove grain fuzz
12. Apply last coat (3 total)

I am going to practice on the backside of the panels first.


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## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

> I am going to practice on the backside of the panels first.
> 
> - mikewaters


Practice on scraps. You won't regret that no matter what happens.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

+1

Always have a test piece, even if you have decades of experience.

It's always better to be surprised when it doesn't affect your final project.

I can check and adjust on the scrap without killing my project.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

My plan was to
1.sand with 220 using festool random orbit.

Be careful you don't sand right through that 1/42" veneer. It'll go quick. Myself, I'd hand sand using a cork block and 220 grit, very lightly.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

> My plan was to
> 1.sand with 220 using festool random orbit.
> 
> Be careful you don t sand right through that 1/42" veneer. It ll go quick. Myself, I d hand sand using a cork block and 220 grit, very lightly.
> ...


Great idea.
That was my original thought as well… but then I was thinking festool ROB on a setting of '1' would be so light.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I have painted hundreds of rooms, trim and other projects. I am an excellent painter
> 
> - mikewaters


Ah. Then you do have experience finishing. Go for it. Like others have said just be very gentle with the sanding. We have all had that "oh s**t" moment when you realize that you've sanded down through the veneer, especially at the edges. You are sanding to 220 so the finish has something to hold on to. The finish gets the 400 grit and will be smooth.

I only mentioned the Deft because it's easy, relatively fool proof and only 30 minutes between coats. It's only $5 a can so it might be worth a test on some scrap but you seem to be comfortable with a brush. I'd practice on some scrap rather than the back side. It's just way too easy to scratch or gouge the veneer flipping and handling it. Once I get the veneer on the substrate I avoid it like it's poison.

I'm still curious to know where 7k of veneer goes in a kitchen. 
Good luck.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

Ok great advice.
Avoid it like it is poison! Great!!

Keep the tips coming brothers !

7k total. Veneer itself is 2k worth of teak 2k worth of graphite oak and 3k for superior veneer to lay the veneer on MDF.

I chose MDF because it is extremely stable in terms of staying flat and anti-warping. MDF was recommended to me by multiple skilled people over plywood.

They all said the finishing and sealing the wood will stop any moisture..

Superior does offer moisture resistant boards though. Only .75 sq. Ft. More


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

The better analogy would be to treat it like a baby's butt.

That makes sense. The MDF is very stable. I use it under veneer all the time especially on large frames etc.

Post some pics as you progress.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)




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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Wow! Very impressive. On second thought I might get somebody to spray that for me considering the investment in materials. I'd want that to be perfect. Maybe you could just do the dark wood of the island base but those cabinets are going to be on display front and center.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

How could I possibly screw up oil though as long as I use little amounts at a time?

It's self leveling and pretty dumby proof I thought.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

True. Maybe it's just me but I know I'd find a way to screw it up. . That's a lot of surface area. Go for it. !


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

> True. Maybe it's just me but I know I'd find a way to screw it up.
> 
> - Andybb


I am going to get some mdf with veneer whatever from the local shop..
Will practice before I get panels and will update here!


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Lots of things to consider.
My additional thought is regarding an "oil" finish in the kitchen. It is not too likely to stand up in the long run, especially around the areas people will frequently touch it or splash it. I know my wife and daughter are gourmet cooks and I notice that type of cook is often a bit messy. Even our cabinets with a hard lacquer finish take a beating. 
You can apply an oil for the color and seal but I would top it with a hard finish like a satin varathane or sprayed on lacquer.

Also I would not sand it with anything greater than 320 sand paper and do it by hand, watch the edges and corners where it is easy to cut through the veneer.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

I was actually looking into Rubio Monocoat because it has an accelerated 2C version?

We have Rubio Monocoat on our floors.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

My only concern about rubio is.
1. I am not sure how it would adhere to a stained oak.

2. I am not sure how deep it 'penetrates' and do not want it to react with whatever is adhering the wood veneer to the mdf (using Extira)


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I used Rubio on a table once. It was just a little dull for my taste.

Have you looked into having it sprayed? What do they suggest for a kitchen? That pre-cat stuff is pretty popular these days.

LesB makes good points. The Varathane option is a good one if they are going to be done after installation just for the fumes. I still say you'd be amazed with what the Deft spray will do if you decide to do it yourself and consider lacquer, which is probably a better choice for kitchen cabinets. Buy a can and try it when you are doing your scrap tests.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

I like the matte look of the rubio.
Just have not used it before

I looked into it and it was thousands of dollars to have it sprayed.. asked a few places.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

In your original post you mentioned Waterlox. That's a great choice. You also mentioned General Finishes, and I assume you were referring to Arm-R-Seal. Both are excellent options. They are oil based (Waterlox is tung and I believe Arm-R-Seal is linseed) so they'll bring out the beauty of the wood, and they provide a very durable finish, unlike plain oils alone. In my experience, Waterlox darkens a bit more than Arm-R-Seal, if that's an issue for you. You'll be doing test boards, so I'd try both to see what you like.

I assume you'll be finishing the panels flat, before you hang them. Whether you use Waterlox or Arm-R-Seal, I recommend wiping. It's faster than brushing and there are no brush marks. Go with at least 4 or 5 light coats waiting at least 24 hours between.

You mentioned liking a matte look. Waterlox Original will dry to about a 75 sheen and soften to around 50 sheen in a few months. Arm-R-Seal is available in satin, and will give you a soft look right away.


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## mikewaters (Sep 30, 2017)

> In your original post you mentioned Waterlox. That s a great choice. You also mentioned General Finishes, and I assume you were referring to Arm-R-Seal. Both are excellent options. They are oil based (Waterlox is tung and I believe Arm-R-Seal is linseed) so they ll bring out the beauty of the wood, and they provide a very durable finish, unlike plain oils alone. In my experience, Waterlox darkens a bit more than Arm-R-Seal, if that s an issue for you. You ll be doing test boards, so I d try both to see what you like.
> 
> I assume you ll be finishing the panels flat, before you hang them. Whether you use Waterlox or Arm-R-Seal, I recommend wiping. It s faster than brushing and there are no brush marks. Go with at least 4 or 5 light coats waiting at least 24 hours between.
> 
> ...


Hi Rich,
Thanks for the reply.

Will waterlox, sealer, turn yellow over time?
Also, Does wiping with a terry cloth inside panty-hose work well on veneer as it does on regular lumber?


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