# Comparing Finger Joint Jigs



## Mikesawdust (Jan 29, 2010)

With the Ibox, I usually just skip the instructions. The easiest way to set it up is cut once to set the spacing of the tabs, space them so the cut piece has to be pushed on. Next move it over to where it looks right, then test cut and make the final adjustments. In the instructions it looks like it will work like magic on the setup, but it is not magic. the jig will make extremely accurate joints though.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> With the Ibox, I usually just skip the instructions.
> 
> - Mikesawdust


Same here. I found their kiss calibration and twist a couple of knobs method to be frustrating to get right. I almost gave up on the jig. Makes for great videos though.

I use my router table with a spiral bit. That seems to give me the cleanest cuts. Once the guides are set to the correct width in the test cut, the only variable left is the space from the guide to the blade. I use digital calipers and set that to a few thousandths less than the width of the cut using the silver knob. Generally one test joint is all it takes to verify the setup before I start cutting on the expensive exotics.


----------



## cc3d (Feb 26, 2012)

Thanks for the review. A couple of questions:

1) what are you showing in image 3?
2) with the Incra IBox, can you do single saw blade width slots/joints? Like you would do for a hinge?
see image


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Hi Chris, I didn't write the review, but the minimum kerf for the iBox is 1/8 inch. Also, the Incra Hinge Crafter is an accessory to the iBox that allows making wooden hinges.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

I agree with the instructions as well, however I went through the them and got great results with table saw. I thought about the router but feel the table saw has more power and surface area with dado blades. Plus I have a real nice dado setup. Glad your enjoying jig. Thx for review.


----------



## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

I'm surprised that you found the Rockler jig to be so problematic that you had to replace it. I use mine to make box joints and wooden hinges all the time with no fillers or problems … except one time the joints were really sloppy and after I re-did the setup they were just fine … 
normally I use a brass set up block and it works out fine, but if the router bit is not exactly the same size as the setup block you will get a mess. ... Or if you set up and the cutter blade is not right at dead center, you will be off by a significant amount.
Now that you are having problems with the Ibox on the router table, I would think that your problem lies in the setup procedure.


----------



## AlanWS (Aug 28, 2008)

It sounds to me as if the problem is with your router table, since you say box joints came out poorly on that with either jig.


----------



## ca8920 (Feb 27, 2014)

Image 3 shows the issues I was having with the router vs the table saw. A 1/8" blade can be used with the Incra IBox jig.



> Thanks for the review. A couple of questions:
> 
> 1) what are you showing in image 3?
> 2) with the Incra IBox, can you do single saw blade width slots/joints? Like you would do for a hinge?
> ...


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Just a suggestion, you might consider making a 2nd review for the Rockler jig. Even though the title says comparing jigs, if someone was looking for a review of the Rockler it won't be easy to find listed under Incra. And thanks for the review.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Image 3 shows the issues I was having with the router vs the table saw. A 1/8" blade can be used with the Incra IBox jig.


OK, if I zoom in I can see the problem. I just couldn't identify what I was even looking at at first. That has nothing to do with using a router. It's just bad setup. The guides are way too close to the bit. That should have been obvious just from looking at it before finishing the complete joint.

Like I said above, I like to use digital calipers to set that distance just a few thousandths smaller than the width of the cut. To set it up, I turn the red knob until the fit is nice and snug, then turn the silver knob until the guides are a proper distance from the bit. I also reach under the table and rotate the bit against the calipers to be sure the measurement is correct. Again, as I said above, I use a spiral bit since the cuts are much cleaner than fluted. If you are using a fluted bit, be sure to give it a full rotation, since even on top name bits, there can be a small difference between the two flutes.

You can also make just two passes and measure the width of the finger and the width of the slot to see if it's set up properly before you waste time cutting a complete test joint. It'll save you tons of time.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I have a fancy finger template for my Leigh dovetail jig (18" superjig). It works, but I prefer my shop made TS jig.
Given the option between box joints and dovetails, I will almost always choose dovetails because of the way the joint mechanically locks together.


----------



## EricLew (Aug 29, 2014)

I just got an IBox as a Christmas gift, and I'm about to set it up. I have been trying to do finger joints on jigs I made, but they come out either inconsistent, too sloppy, or too tight. Plus I like that you dont need a separate jig for each size joint, and I'm tired of wasting expensive exotic wood


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Eric, speaking of wasting exotics, I had an issue with the board slipping during the cut. It only happened maybe three times, but when it does, there's no recovering it. I attached a strip of 220 grit to the backer board high enough up so the bit (or blade) wouldn't contact it. I also found that a trigger clamp is more secure than the handscrew they recommend.


----------



## Puffball (Jan 30, 2015)

I too got the Incra I-box jig for Christmas. I used it on my router table. I watched the videos on the DVD and read the instructions multiple times, but it took me a whole day of trial and error to get it set up properly. I discovered a few things along the way:
1. The miter slot on my router table was too wide, so I had to work really hard to get the little plastic things to expand enough to take up the gap. 
2. I had to adjust how the miter slot guide fit the miter slot. I needed to a couple of washers between the jig and the miter guide to make it fit so that the little plastic things could be adjusted and touch the sides of miter slot. Once I did that it finally removed the slop from miter slop. Without it, the miter jig would move maybe 1/32" left and right.
3. I tried following the "Kiss" calibration, but it seemed to make finger joints that were way too tight. What I found worked was to use the kiss calibration to get the initial setting and then to get out my digital calibers and adjust the gap between the router bit and jig stop. 
4. And then as other said in some other threads, really important to secure the board on the jig. The use of a clamp is a MUST. The torque of the router bit will move the board if it isn't securely clamp.
5. The boards to joined have to be absolutely square to ensure alignment of the finger joints

After I did all that it worked fine.


----------

