# Lawnmower question



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Really hoping someone can help.

My fiance hit a stump with our fancy John Deere push mower (<1> range that are more sturdy than the John Deere? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Hee hee - I guess you're stumped, huh?

So, what all broke on the mower? I hit a big piece of steel with my fancy Toro once and all it did was ruin the blade because the blade clutch protected the crankshaft shear pin.


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Lawnmower, What is a lawnmower?  The grass doesn't grow anymore down here so now they're just novilties. 
Was it just the blade to was damaged or did that stump really do a number on it?


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks Joseph, a guy at work told me that the John Deere's don't have a crankshaft shear pin. Go figure. Nothing at all visibly broke, although I wasn't there to see it. I'm told that she hit the stump and the motor stopped abruptly. It must have been violent because some of the plastic farings were displaced. When I flipped the mower over, the blade was touching the sheet metal housing at the periphery (bad sign). I took this to mean the blade was bent and took it off and laid it on my jointer bed. Looked relatively straight (and substantial; would make good plane blades). I balanced the blade on a pin and it looked well balanced. I started the mower with the blade off and it looks like the axle/blade mount shaft is wobbling. I reinstalled the blade and the machine vibrates violently. I thought maybe the whole motor had been jarred off its mounts, so I loosened those and there wasn't really any play in the mount.

I'm pretty convinced the shaft is bent and that's pretty much what the JD guy told my fiance over the phone. He said buy a new motor (thanks, dude, but it won't be another $500+ John Deere).

If the Toro's got a safety device that the JD doesn't have, then it's the front runner currently. I'm just wondering if i should spend the big bucks on a more commercial mower. Thanks again!


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

Wait.. The John Deere didn't mulch up the stump and spit a bunch of fine wood shavings out the side?


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I wish it did, Dan. It seems like a pretty common problem, given a quick Google search. Some guys seem to think you can order a new crankshaft and *********************************** it yourself.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Hmm - We need to look at an exploded assembly diagram to see what parts are in there. What is the model #?

I can't believe that there isn't something there to protect the crank. The way its usually done is with a soft key in the blade to shaft connecting thingy.


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

bertha you may be able to do that but chances are your chasing a dream. Sadly there is more then likely more damage then just the crank shaft but what i would do if I were you is open up the motor and see if there is further damage.

At this point whats the worst you could do opening it up. my thought on it is you will find the bearings are shot and that you may not be able to get the crank shaft out of the crank case.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Al:

Yeah, likely a bent shaft. I've had that happen before to a commercial Snapper mower (Wisconsin-Robin engine) ...this was before they made them with sheer pins, of course.

The good news is that if you take off the engine and attach it to your bed, you have nifty, albeit loud, massaging bed…and you don't even have to drop a quarter. Just keep a handy supply of two-cycle fuel.


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## zindel (Feb 22, 2011)

Sorry to hear about your mishap, however i would recommend watching CL. Especially this time of year there are always good mowers on there. And yes is a great brand my grandpa had one for years until he wanted to get a new one…didn't need to get a new one just wanted to. You may also want to try and bend the shaft back but i don't know how safe i would feel using it after that if you were able to.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I'll bet a dime to a donut that the engine is ok. If the crank was damaged it most likely wouldn't run at all.

For sure, it's much too soon to take the motor apart.

BTW - JD doesn't make mowers - they just have a mower mfg. put green paint on them.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

And what (pray tell) put that fine fiance into a situation where she's having to mess with a push mower (JD or otherwise) in the first place? ;=)

A homeowner will never get the right amount of goody out of a true commercial push rig (just because it will be dry rotted and ancient before it reaches the 2100 hour rebuild mark).

Go the other way on push mowers… get the cheapest you can find that have the minimum features (and decent engine… Briggs, Honda) you want/need. Husqvarna, Craftsman or whatever… with a dirt cheap warranty… It will act like the best of them. 4 level wheels and spinning a blade. Like putting a hock iron on a HF plane, it might surprise you.

Save the Wisconsin Robin engine for the ZTR.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Joe is right. If the crank was bent internally it would have shattered housing, outboard bearing, whatever.

Flip, secure, long cheater bar time. Don't over-do it, Al ! ;=)


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## superstretch (Jan 10, 2011)

LOL You call DIY-ing a rebuild is "rednecking it"...

But you're the one that has the fiancee out mowing


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Hmmm, I cannot help but wonder if there is some leverage in this story.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Crank shaft shear pin would be my guess, or were you trying to fix the fiance?


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Al's Fiance's a shooter too..
She might take umbrage at some of this..

;-}


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

She likes to mow! What can I tell you. I like to mow, too, so I didn't give it up lightly. I think you've all given me excellent advice. The engine purrs like a kitten; with the blade off, it vibrates a bit; with the blade on, it vibrates (I said violently before but it's really more like…) at a very high frequency like it's skittering across the pavement. I'm pretty sure "something" is bent but I'm not sure what I'm looking at under there. I think it's a JS36; it's the rear-wheel driver version that doesn't have the zero-turn front wheels (these are fixed). When I take the blade off, there's a square housing that addresses the blade in only one possible configuration. The blade is secured with a single bolt and washer. When removed, I can see at least one collar with a hex tap and beneath that, the pulley that turns what I'm guessing is the drive. There are little "stay" doo-dads that keep the exposed belt from being impacted. This is the manual: 
http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMGX22228_A6/Output/Index.html?tM=HO

Here's where some guys talk about it:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lmower/msg0917145832585.html

It seems that there would be something to prevent this but if that were the case, would it still run without the blade on? As aforementioned, without the blade on, it "looks" like the crankshaft is wobbling but it's really hard to tell. I mean, I can't really put my hand on it to check, lol.

David, I understand what you're saying. I don't want to be "that" guy who has a $3000 Gravely to mow my lawn. I can't really go with a beater, though, because the hills are so steep that I need rear wheel drive. The hills are entirely too treacherous for the lawn tractor, although I've seen my hillbilly neighbors go for it. They sit side-saddle and slide sideways across the hills with chains on the tires and usually beer in the hand.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

David:

I've run (or helped run) a lawn service (mostly residential) since I was in college over 23 years ago. My Snappers were the wonderful 2-cycle Robins, which were only 4hp but were full of delicious torque (which also made them lighter overall). Of course, once the 2-cycle motors started to phase out, I had to go with a 4-cycle alternative. Currently, my lawn guys use the same commercial Snapper platforms, only with 5 hp Kawasaki motors. These platforms get an amazing amount of mileage…and have always been easy to repair. However, I greatly miss those Robin motors.

I concur with you…a home owner doesn't need anything fancy. My mower at home is one of my older "decommisioned" Snappers with a cheap Briggs and Straton 5hp thrown atop of it. I will say, however, that nothing is worse than pushing around a crappy mower, especially one with a drive mechanism that doesn't work consistently. This is why I always used my own mower when mowing my parents or grandparents (God rest their souls) lawns. What a whipping!

The nice part about me using my old Snapper is that once I replace the belts and bearings on the drive mechanism, it's good for another million miles. Much like a fine table saw that will last you a lifetime, I don't think it's a bad idea to purchase a GOOD mower that will do the same.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^THAT'S what I'm thinking, Jay! Maybe I could just toss a new motor on mine. The damage is done and I don't mind spending the money. I just don't want to spend the SAME money again when it happens again. I'm no mechanical engineer but these things seem pretty straight forward, mechanically speaking. However, I googled "crankshaft" and it's a pretty imposing component. It looks like something that'd be buried deeply within the motor, lol.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

BTW, our Snappers were always around $700 to $800 out the door. Expensive, but well worth the cost since we generally got about 5 years out of them…and they are much cheaper than a riding mower. For us, riding mowers would have rutted up the lawns AND taken longer to use.

If I had no choice, as a homeowner, I'd never go with something less than what I have. It's just to easy to be spoiled by a great mower.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

So which mower is this, Jay? It's a Snapper self-propelled? Do you have the model number or a specific recommendation? I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm going to be buying a mower this week. Do y'all see any advantage on resucing this <1y>m not too deep into accessories to go with a different mower.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Yep, Al. I had to get an new motor. Not much choice there. The newer motors have a sheer pin, which can be fixed at the local shop. We had to do this on one of our Kawasaki motors three years ago. A lot cheaper than a new motor.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Al:

This platform design has remained exactly the same design for the last 25 years (at least). It is bulletproof, well-proven, and extremely user-serviceable:

http://www.snapper.com/push-mowers/Commercial%20Mowers/

Keep in mind this a commercial version. The consumer versions, the kinds that you might find at your local Sears store, are nothing of the sort. I'd bet a dollar to donuts that my mowers are made in the USA…and you KNOW that the consumer versions aren't.

Just like with our shop tools, you get what you pay for.

BTW, many lawn companies use Honda and Toro platforms…I've never heard too many horror stories, though I can't imaging them being an better all-around platform than my Snappers. But, just like my Echos, I'm very partial to things that just plain WORK.

I will say that my neighbor's Honda broke down last year…and I took it off his hands since he just put it out on the curve for the trashman. I haven't had the chance to break it down yet, but I'm not that impressed…then again, it might very well be like those consumer Snappers I mentioned.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

Sounds like its time for a new (or used) mower. Try the dump first. Many throw them away when the carb. just needs cleaned. It's not worth it to me to repair a push mower engine if the crank is bent.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Jay, thank you so much. I found a dealer nearby:
CREDE TRACTOR SALES & SERVICE
4731 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE
CHARLESTON, WV 25302
Phone: 304-965-1666

Cr1, as I've got really nothing to lose at this point (it sounds like), I might try to fix it myself. It's almost the end of mowing season anyway.

Here's another thought, though…when looking at the diameter of the crankshaft and the assembly under the mower, this stuff is incredibly heavy duty. I'd estimate the shaft to be 1 1/2 inch diameter or more. I honestly can't see how this piece of metal could have bent without bending the blade. Is it a weaker point higher up within the engine that you think is bent? Wouldn't this freeze the engine?

What do you think the chances that John Deere will shoot straight with me if I take it in?


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Al:

Good to hear. If you do go the new mower route, just look at it like you would your table saw. It's easy to see to tell a well-made mower from one that's not. In my opinion, the motor is less important than the platform. Typically, it's the platform that determines the life-span of a lawn mower.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Jay, I've learned this lesson many times over. That's why I kept mentioning Gravely. I wish I'd foregone both my riding mover and my push mower in favor of a capable commercial machine in the first place. I don't save a whole bunch of time with the riding mower, especially when you consider clean-up and maintenance. Ah, regrets.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Al:

If we ever had commercial clients with large areas of land, then sure, we would have riding mowers. But when your lawns are 3/4 of an acre or less, with lots of shapes and obstacles, then push mowers are faster because there is much less to trim up. Many crews will still have somebody pushing a mower even IF they also have riders.

My business partner and I could do a large lot ourselves in about 40 minutes, including all the edging, trimming, and clean-up. We have always laughed when the three or four man crew from another competitor, who is already mowing a similar lot across the street, outfitted completely with their commercial-client gear (riding mowers and back-pack blowers), is still there well after we've packed up and left. Our lawn looks like a baseball diamond…theirs looks like a WWII battlefield of trenches. Of course, inevitably, those people soon hire us…and it takes awhile for the lawn to re-level itself of those wheel ruts.

Residential lawns are typically very soft…and crews that use heavy riding mowers tend to always mow in the same pattern…which, of course, happens because you have less flexibility in that regard. With our push-mowers, we change the pattern on a weekly basis…and we often have clients who pay for a double-mow just because they want the pretty criss-cross patterns in the lawn.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Big snapper fan here, too. I had the 30" high vac rider with the Wisconsin Robin engine that lasted twenty years. A wonderful mower and motor. One 30" blade.. and the outside rake of the wheels perfectly aligned with the width of the deck so no need to look down to see how close the deck is to structure… if the wheels made it, then the deck would, too !

Hell, I didn't mean a Murray, Al ;=)

On your JD, I say if it runs w/o blade, then probably the exposed end of the CS is bent… not up inside the engine. THere is usu an outboard bearing that holds the shaft in line with the crankcase. You would know it if ANY of that was compromised in any way. Not that it matters, but I used to do teardown analysis for Tecumseh after harsh use… everything internal has extremely tight tolerances and will not work if bent up in there.

I'd get a new blade and get an accurate runout on the exposed end of the CS before I tossed it.

Trust a mechanic ? Flip a coin ? ;=)


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks guys! I think I might take everything off that's within easy reach and have a looksie. I've ground this thing to a halt before and never bent anything. I'll be the first to admit that I abused this thing right out of the box, so I guess I have no one to blame but myself.

I thought I WAS buying a higher end mower when I bought this one. I should have done my homework instead of just buying the most expensive thing at a big box store. You'd think I'd know better by now. After all, I've owned Kirbys and Rainbows and I've killed Orecks and Dysons.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

David:

Had I ever needed a riding mower, I would have gotten a zero-radius Snapper, just as you described. There have been times when tempted to take on some larger commercial stuff (we have had smaller commercial clients), but our residential clientele sufficed…and we haven't advertised in 23 years of existence. Never needed to. Today, we have one crew that goes around and does around 30 lawns weekly (sometimes I even show up on Saturdays). Back in the day, we had two crews of three people with over 50 lawns a week each…most done on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays because people like their lawns done for the weekend. Plus, we had another crew that might do landscaping and planting related projects (which also makes for good off-seasonal work).

Not a big operation, but we undercut everybody and did the best job of anybody…and we've always stayed in the same neighborhood…no time-waste or fuel costs by driving around the Metroplex. Today, as always, we have the luxury of picking and choosing our clients.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Cr1, normally I would agree but they're in a position where it will be hard to please me. They could:
1) Offer to fix it; I'm told this could approach the price of a new one
2) Try to convince me to buy a new one; surely they can't expect me to buy the same one again.

I could threaten to walk down to Gravely or Snapper but I'm not sure what they can reasonably do for me. I can't in good faith request a warranted repair. Maybe they could try to unload the deal of the week on me, I suppose. I think my fiance' will try to keep me from the JD dealership…after all, they have Gators there










They also cost more than a new Hyundai, lol.

This is what I should have done from the get-go. No riding mower/no push mower, just this:


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I'm a Toro fan. I've had two (both self propelled walk behind), and the latest was purchased in the late 80's or early 90's and it's mowed a lot of grass. (The tread on the tires has completely worn off, and that takes a lot of doing when it's only been on lawns.) Still starts with one or two pulls, self propelled works as good as the day I bought it, and like I said before, it sliced into a steel pipe and only wiped damaged the blade.

It has a blade clutch so you don't have to restart the motor every time you let go of the handle, the transmission has three speeds, but if you want to creep in third gear, just barely squeeze the handle.


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

*You can have this one.*


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

Sorry for your trouble.

mabe it's time to forgo the noise and smell with this: http://www.neutonpower.com/

I am not sure how big is your lawn but I use one.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Lanwater, I hadn't considered this. I'd score huge points with my liberal better half. You may be on to something.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Go to Sears Discount store, get a mower with a Briggs & Stratton. Why pay big bucks for poorly designed brand name. When I was looking for a Tractor, all JD had to offer was hydrostatic problems. Since I won't buy new Chinese, I had to settle for a used one. Basic tractor just like we had on the farm. Nearly trouble free basis machine ;-)) No shear pin on the $500 mower is just a dealer plan to try to sell you another one.


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## GSwoodworker (May 22, 2009)

Al, I'm pretty sure your crankshaft is bent. You could try to find a small engine repair shop to see if they have a jig to straighten it. I friend's father had a jig to straighten shafts on mowers, I do not know if this is still done anymore (since he has passed some time ago and no longer in bussiness). Some shafts would be hardened (by heat treating process) and this would make it more difficult to straighten. I would get the bolt pattern of the motor that mounts to the deck and find a replacement. Find the manufacture who is making that for Deere and price there motor. Buying direct from John Deere would be most expensive option (they are proud of that green paint). Anytime you are in Iowa you are more than welcome to mow my yard I, it is my least favorite chore to do and I'd rather shovel snow! Good luck Greg (a snapper owner)


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Al, before you go buying the moon mower id check out how much a replacement battery is .. $200 might not be far off.

Topa .. my craftsman with a briggs just took the dirt nap .. 5 years old all though i did beat the crap out of it.

Now a litte thread hijack .. ive got to buy a new mower, a self propelled job, yard is hilly, rocky, wet all the time, full of weeds cuz it gets no sun, i will beat the crap out of it … any suggestions?

EDIT - !/2 acre of actual grass type stuff

(thanks for starting the lawn and garden thread Al)


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^no hijack; I want the answer to this too I'm thinking the snapper so far.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

but ive got a budget lol


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

craftsman with a briggs if you aren't going to take good care and beat the crap out of it. It is an expendable item. The other end is a Snapper, will last for life.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

here you go Al. $25.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

My cheapo Craftsman with a B&S engine is finishing up its 23rd year. We moved six years ago to a place that needs a riding mower. Since then, the Craftsman has been beaten regularly as a trimmer and used to clear out the wild stuff. Not a very nice way to spend its Golden Years, but it just keeps going.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

Al, Two years ago I retired an 18year old Briggs and Stratton aka Murray. early on I hit the cast pipe that houses the water shut off valve. It knocked the cap of that pipe right off and the mower kept running. I never looked back. It shook a little but I got use to it. I have a Toro now.

I didn't read all the aboves, but go self propelled. My two cents.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Al, a good mower is just another good tool. They make life easier. I had a friend running a mower shop. I went in to buy a mower. He sold Snappers and he sold Ariens mowers. I checked them out and looked them over and we talked a long time. Finally I asked the right question; "which mower do you use to mow your lawn?" I figure a guy that can use anything he wants should be able to answer that question. Well, he used the Ariens with a 2 cycle engine on it. A German built engine and I can't remember the name but that isn't important. Ahhh yeas a Fachs or something like that. I asked why the Ariens? He said well, when you bag, the Snapper has a high chute and it drops the grass in here and the chute will clog up. I spent too much time clearing the clog. The Ariens has this large opening in the back of the deck into the bag. Good point since I was bagging at the time. I used that mower over 10 years and it always started on the first pull. I put in a new spark plug and gave it to my son when he got his first house and had to mow. It always started on the first pull even with the 10 year old plug. I bought myself a new Ariens with the caster wheels on the front and it was self propelled. The old one was not. I like it but it usually has to be pulled 2 times to start the engine. Always been that way. My engines were 4 stroke Tecumseh. I like the mowers. Eventually Snapper required a $10,000 purchase by Feb. or they wouldn't sell to the dealers so he stopped selling those. 
I moved to the country and I was mowing along the front right of way. My very kind neighbor had worked on the fence and welded in a pipe post. He kindly left about 12 inches of 2 inch line pipe in some tall grass like a rattle snake and I hit it. I DID bend my crankshaft. I determined what I needed so I called my friend. He started by telling me that some of the crankshafts were as high as $120. I swallowed hard and said here are the numbers so order it. He did and I put it in. The most difficult part was cleaning the crud off the crankshaft on the lower end so it could slide through the bearing surface without damage. I got the new on in and all the engine assembled. No problem. Fired it up and I still used the mower. It is a 1997 model. The shaft was only $60 for my model. 
I have a Gravely zero turn mower that has a 52 inch deck. It cost well over that $3000 mark you tossed out. It gets the job done though. fast too. You really need to rent a stump grinder and take those stumps out. If you don't, buy a mower that uses a large line like a line trimmer. They are not as neat by they do cut and rocks and stumps don't bother them. I think DR makes one of the better units. You can do the crankshaft yourself. Just like surgery. Keep it clean and watch where things go or where they come from. Remember torgue on aluminum threads. Go ahead and buy a new blade too. She deserves it. I mowed with cheap mowers for years and they were cheaper on the per year ratio, but they were like depending on a cheap oriental bench saw when you really know you could enjoy that Powermatic you have been lusting after.


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## PutnamEco (May 27, 2009)

I'll just leave this here









The 72LC from Deweze

You don't want to mess with a JD Gator when Bobcat offers the awesome Toolcat. it has many attachments that I'm sure you would find useful


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

That's Jack Nicholson on that mower !


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## cloakie1 (May 29, 2011)

my wife did the same thing with our first mower…cept it was a ground off at ground level 50 galv pipe that was once our clothes line…instant stop.. bent the crank and like you described the blade was fine…. the motor did go again but you couldn't hang on to it with blade attached and it only mildly shook with blade off.i just went and spent 500 on another new mower . i wouldn't waste my time with a briggs…they don't even make good boat anchors.if you are going the new engine route then honda is the way to go. we have been using hondas on our gear for years and we haven't lost one yet and they get a very hard life. i will bet that your motor is stuffed and that you will get nothing but frustration when fixing it. it will have also stuffed the engine seals and bearings so it won't end at just a crank straightening or replacement.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I really don't think a crankshaft can be straightened. Most reputable shops in my area tell you to go away or order a new shaft. I have heard of some that had them straightened but I don't know how well it worked in the long term. I put in a shaft and have had no problems. That was 10 years ago and the engine still operates and doesn't leak oil or burn oil. It runs smooth. I have been happy with that decision. 
I seems that the Chinese are taking over the small engines too. Briggs sells a small part of the engines where they once sold the majority of the nations small engines. Not my decision this time though. I also know that Honda sells about 3 grades of engines. the mower shops sell the good ones. The motor cycle shops sell a lower cheaper machine and places like wholesale clubs sell a really cheap machine. You still get what you pay for. BTW many parts don't interchange on the different Honda grades. At least not all parts.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Well, I guess a new mower it is. I THOUGHT I was buying a quality mower, as this one wasn't cheap. I don't expect any quality tool to stand up to terrible abuse but I'm a little surprised by the hit-a-stump/buy-new-mower relationship. I just thought the more expensive mowers were a little more robust. My bad, I guess. Am I going to do the same thing to an $800 mower?


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Al, you very well could. No matter the country origin / brand of your new mower/motor, the blade hitting a (for all practical purposes) immovable object may bend even the absolute best you can buy. IOW, the cheap mowers versus the best will have comparable hardness/shear/tensile to the extended end of the crank shaft. It can happen again.

Somebody above suggested getting the stumps ground. That was the best advice on this entire thread if prevention is your goal.

I had 5 loblolly pines and one pin oak taken out last year (their purpose in life had been to fill my pool up with leaves, cones, tassels and straw). You can bet I had those stumps ground down.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Good advice from David. I like good mowers but if you are going to go back to the same clear cut then you need something you can throw away. They are more difficult to use but they will work.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

@Al - Yes, you could do the same thing to an $800 mower IF it doesn't have the sheer pin to protect the motor. Like I said, it happened to one of my Robin motors.

The best option is to not hit stuff! 

@Grandpa - A Snapper commercial push mower does have a very upright shoot for bagging. That's only a problem IF the lawn was a little damp, IF the grass is a little long, or IF you are using the wrong blade. For these Snappers, there are mulching blades, normal blades, and lift blades. If you use a mulching blade with the bag, you will likely have an issue. So, if that sales guy is talking about a Snapper push mower clogging up, then he has no clue about how to use what he is selling.

A testimonial: About three of our clients have entire jasmine "lawns" that require trimming and leaf removal. We jack up the Snapper not to the highest wheel setting, but actually where the platform kinda rests on the wheel bracket itself. This gives an extra couple of inches of mowing height (perhaps 6 or 7 inches above ground). We actually mow the jasmine, bagging it with lift blades. It's fast…and it really sucks stuff up. We do this once (maybe twice) a year for those lawns.

In the fall, we will often blow leaves out of flower beds (and such) into one big open pile. Then, we will bag the leaves with lift blades using the mowers…which chops (compacts) the leaves up a little AND bags it for us. Saves our backs AND the number of bags.

By the way, we will typically mulch most of our weekly lawns. Typically we just use the normal blades and it does a wonderful job, but will also work when we mix in the occasional bagged lawn. However, they do sell a "ninja" blade for mulching, which we will use on occasion. That cuts up the grass so fine that it's like your wife's food processor. We don't use them often because you need more horsepower to spin them on taller lawns.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Fainting Goats (chain them to the plethora of stumpage) or RoundUp, Al. (Svengali eyes and weird music accompaniment)


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Dynamite!! place those mowers at the stumps and cover them with dynamite. Use that arsonal to pop a couple of rounds into the pile and see what happens. 
Rent a stump grinder and show her how manly you are. They have just become a bargain.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Well, a development. Like a true galoot, I would prefer to rehab something vintage than swipe an Amex at something. I found a Gravely in our local "trader" rag that could prove a fun winter project. In my area, I can buy dead Gravely's for next to nothing. Perhaps a new hobby emerges from the fetid stink of my dead Deere.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Gor for it. You can do it!


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

Al, I'll take the old JD of your hands 
never bought a mower in my life, I just dig one out of the dump that people think are no good.
Usually just the carb needs cleaning, I got one one time that was brand new and the owner filled it with to much oil that was coming out the carb, still use that one at camp.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

That is the first thing I would be looking at on a spendy machine, is it protected from self destruction? As i said before, I was not impressed by the totally electronic/hydraulic JD tractor. Looks like nothing but trouble. Mine will run without any electrical. I'm sure they sell a lot of them to people who don't know how to run machinery because of the convenience they offer. I still can't believe that JD didn't have a shear pin;-(


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Topa, don't take it from me that it didn't! I just might not know what I'm looking at.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

On a lawn mower, it would be a piece of metal that was between the shaft and blade. Your blade would definitely go into free wheeling and the shaft would be straight. I used to have a mower I used in rough duty (running into rocky mole hills in tall grass) and broken it a couple of times.


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

Al, I've had mowers that didn't shear the pin only half cut it, just enough to make the timing off


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Al, I say take it apart. If you're going to go buy a new one anyhow, what do you have to loose? You might surprise yourself and fix it. I do once in a blue moon. (I mean fix it), I always take it apart.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

That reminds me of mined braking cutting lots of heavy wet grass over time without hitting an object. I suppose a lot of people who have that happen may complain until manufacturers leave it off? Most homeowners, at least raised in the city do not have much mechanical knowledge.


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

I had an old mower that i ran into some chain i didn't see, the shaft bent, i had nothing to lose so a little patience and a 2lb hammer i bent it back, it was about 95% perfect


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

patience and a 2lb hammer! Not sure those two go together


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I'd stick with another John Deer….... but get a flying one like this one.


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

*Somebody above suggested getting the stumps ground*

I grew up with Gravelys - up to the convertibles. Never had my kids use mine ('55 LS). Your fiance might not be comfortable operating the newer model pictured above, even less comfortable with an older one, but you would *never* have to worry about silly stumps again. -Jack


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I thought that was Al's after the blade started to wobble ;-))


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^I laughed out loud, Topa. That's about how it went I've done the exact same thing on the same stump before with my rider. I need to get that sucker ground. Jack, you might be right about the Gravely. By the time you put the wheel extenders on, it gets to be a pretty unmanageable contraption.

I wonder if anyone sells one of those universal trimmer lines that would fit my dead mower? That might be the answer. Since the engine and drive still work well, perhaps I could use that up on my stubborn hill.

You guys are geniuses. It's nice to have someone to talk to that cares about lawns. A nice lawn is the epitome of guy pride stuff. My fiance says I'm obsessed. I'm OK with that.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Careful with the word obsessed, Al. You don't want to be that guy !


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I don't hang up Xmas lights or have anything decorative in my yard, so I figure I've got a ways to go before it's a "problem" lol.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Al - take the blade off and put a dop of gloss white paint on the center of the shaft. If this moves when the engine turns, take it to JD and ask them what is bent and how much. I had a neighor try to fix his lawn mower - 36" beast - and got it fairly straight. When he increased the RPM it threw the blade and it went through the side of his car - just missing his legs.

Knock a few teeth off a TS blade - doesn't wobble much - dangerous as hell


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^that's what I'm worried about. We like to joke about our better halves but if I bought/fixed a piece of equipment that ended up in my lady getting hurt, I'm not sure how I'd cope with that. I think I'll just buy a new machine with a shear pin. I'll consider my experience a $500 fine for not asking questions here before buying a machine. I trusted the big box hype, something that I should know not to do.

Do we know for certain that the Snapper has a shear pin?


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Call them and ask their tech or service department in your area. Ask them what sells that most and comes in the least


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

Al, A Gravely with dual wheels will mow any hill you can walk on - but it will tear up lawn on a steep hill if you mow around trees. The operator needs *adequate mass and control* or things can get exciting very quickly. I'd use a push mower. The stump sounds like a small one - get out your axe, the dirt will remove most of the rust before you resharpen it. -Jack

P.S. Sorry but I think you motor is toast. It's good for parts at best. You'll need to replace it.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Thank you, Jack. I wondered if I wasn't expecting too much from the planned user. I think it's time for the old axe and a bit of sweat. The weather's just right for that kind of fun.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Along with the axe, throw an old chain on the chainsaw. It'll speed things up a bit, just plan to chuck it after. Dig and cut. The more dirt and stone you don't cut the longer the chain will last.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Would you believe that I don't even own a chainsaw, Don? It's been one of those things that I haven't absolutely NEEDED yet but I've been doing the research for that day that I do. Like mowers, my research tells me that there are two types: 1) the professional ones that are meant to be run every day and 2) the rest. I think I'll go down to my local Mom/Pop ACE and get the Husqvarna on the day that I need it. I don't think I need a Stihl.


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## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

Al, for the stump I would use a "cutter matock" instead of an axe, they are an amazingly useful tool.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mattock

You should be able to obtain one very reasonably at Ace or at the big box stores.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

dam, Tramp. I had already sold my lady on a new axe. We already own a mattock, so I'll give it a whirl. She used to be an archaeologist, so I usually don't get much resistance about outdoor hand tools.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I have 2 huskys. I like the balance better than the stihl, but they are both a very good saws.


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## woodnewbee (Nov 23, 2009)

I see it has been several days of posts here but can't help but add my two cents worth. I wonder if the stump is still in the yard as it will cause a problem regardless of mower. My wife mows because she wants to and who am I to argue.
Had a mower with bent crank and used it for several years as I was to poor to buy a new one. They just vibrate alot but suppose a small danger of the crank finally breaking. An engine that size is a great place to discover mechanics. My youngest had it as 4-H project and learned a great deal about repair. He can now rebuild most any engine. Not a complicated thing if you have common sense and the internet for schematics. 
I however would just buy an inexpensive engine and replace it.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks WoodNewBee! I'm thinking about putting a trimmer blade on the mower and just using it for the hills and such. I think I'll just buy a new Snapper next season, grind my stumps, and consider it another expensive lesson. It won't be the last, I'm sure.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

My Ariens has a shear key and it still bent the crankshaft. Sometimes it happens like lightning. It is all so fast some of those things don't have time to happen. I would take the enigne off the mower. take it to a shop and have it checked. If they say it is bent then buy a crank. You will have the numbers available. Change the crank yourself and go from there. This is easier than removing the infeed table from a Powermatic jointer. You *HAVE* to deal with the stumps or you are just throwing money at the problem. You are not a politician so don't start that. oops! Politicians throw my money at their problems and you are using your own money. Sorry about that. My mower is as good as new for $60. If you go buy a new mower you are buying a lot of things you don't need. If you don't take care of the shaft then you are wearing the bearing surfaces out and you will probably not make it through next season anyway. My brother-in-law lives out in the red rock and blackjack country. He bought a complete machine with the trimmer head and it did a good job for him. Safer than running over stumps. If you don't remove the stumps then this is the route to take. If you do remove the stumps just repair the JD mower and move forward. It will be as simple as repairing that gravely (probably easier and cheaper) you posted a couple of days ago. If you choose to buy a new engine look at a place like Northern Hydraulics and see if they have the engine for your mower. The shaft lengths are different so the length sticking out of the lower engine housing has to be measured and buy accordingly. If not you will be scalping or mowing very high all the time.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Al - Before you spend any big bucks you ought to find out if the crank is really bent.

If you have a dial indicator, remove the spark plug, take all the stuff off the bottom of engine (blade, etc.) so the crank shaft is accessible, and measure the run-out of end of the crankshaft using the DI. I'm not sure of what the maximum allowable is, but IMO it should be less than 0.001.

If you have a bunch of run-out then pick your option in the above posts. If the run-out is nil, then the problem isn't the crank and the repair should be inexpensive.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I agree with Joe. Check it out. Do the right thing. I just took my pickup to our local technical school and they looked at my front brake rotors. The instructor told me he didn't have the correct adapter to hold my rotors but he measured them to have .002" runout. He said it really shouldn't cause a problem. I took it to the dealer and they turned them. Stopped the shaking and shuttering when you stop. So I am not sure what you can stand but if you can see it then it is probably too much.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

If you decide to get a chainsaw, once you hit the dirt with the blade, it will be dull. A long axe near the dirt can deflect if you are not careful easy to come back and get your leg. A bow saw for green wood is fast cutting and is far less dangerous. I have seen these kinds of accidents, especially from folks not used to using them.

Just a thought - be careful.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Stanley never made a stump smoother ? Huh ! (philip, the market is calling out to you !)


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Re: Another stump removal method - burning. I've seen it done, and apparently it works well under certain conditions. I think an appropriate accelerant is applied to the stump, fire is added and away it goes. I think it takes several days.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Sometimes it take a few burnings to get a big stump gone, but it's the most economical route if time is not a factor. Soak with kersosene/gas/old motor oil for a few hours, then fire it up. Back in the day, a used tire would keep it going.

Charcoal and lighter fluid will do it, too. It may take a few backs of charcoal for the one continuous, slow (but safer) burn.

Remember to make a fire break around the stump.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Al, I haven't read all of the posts, but the way I get stumps is dig down one side, cut off the roots, pull with my truck or tractor. If it doesn't give, dig down and cut off another root. It will eventually give in. I did one old growth fir that was so full of pitch, my wife squirted kerosene on the chain while I cut the roots off. ;-((


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I've got several stumps that need attending to. Many are cut off about 4' above ground and I actually like the look. The one that killed my mower is in the relative flat. It's actually not that large but it's pretty close to the creek bed. I could probably pull it out with the truck over the creek (but it'd probably end up IN the creek). I don't think my lawn tractor's got the oomph to help much. There might be another tree close enough where I could string a hand winch between the two. I'll keep everyone in the loop and take pictures of whatever I destroy


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

build a flower box over the top. Plant some nice flowers in it so it looks like it should be there. In 5 or 6 years move the flower box.


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## steviep (Feb 25, 2011)

I will add a vote for the Mattock (thanks saddletramp, never new what it was called, mine came with the house I bought!) Makes short work of stumps if you sharpen it.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Things are easy to destroy pulling stumps Al;-) I broke a 3/8" chain with a Warn winch on my 4×4xFord with hydraulic brake locks on all 4 and a snatch block!!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Good to know, Topa. Maybe I should either rent a grinder or go cautiously with the axe.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Al, Stump burning is a long process. the stump still sucks up water and I have never got to far ahead of that to boil it off in a fire. My last and final attempt was a China berry tree and I only burnt the stump because I had no other choice. All the roots kept putting up new trees.

If you drill one inch holes and fill them with good ole Drano, by spring it should be rotted away. Be sure to drill as many holes as you can. The more the better.

You might look into a tractor with a brush hog. If the tractor can drive over it, the brush hog can chew it up.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Back in the day you could get a stick of TNT, cut a groove in the top of the stump deeper than the the stick, put the stick with electrical cap in the groove, screw a piece of plywood over the top and it it would make a nice hole where the stump was. You want to be about 100 yards away minimum - lot to be said about "fire in the hole!"


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Cr1, this is genius and I appreciate it. However, the motor DOES start. With the blade off, the crankshaft seems to wobble slightly but I haven't used Purp's paint trick yet.

However, you bring up a good point: it seems to me that it would be more likely for something to have shifted rather than the crankshaft being bent. That being said, it appears that most people here who know more than me seem to think it is indeed the shaft. Seems surprisingly common, actually. I'm guessing that if this machine is equipped with a shear pin, it would somehow either incapacitate the motor somehow or the axle would spin freely; neither of which has occurred in my case.

In reality and in actuality, I banged on it with a deadblow hammer, reinstalled the blade, and cut the grass despite the ferocious wobble. Everything works as usual, it's just loud and wobbly; not even terribly uncomfortable, just noticeably different.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

... maybe it will keep her from falling asleep this time ;=)

Do you realize that you put "fancy" and "push mower" in the same sentence and almost got away with it ?


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I just discovered this thing at my local ACE:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GWN2ZC/ref=asc_df_B005GWN2ZC1730420?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B005GWN2ZC










What do y'all think (for my side hill that really needs a brush hog)?


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Go for it. Husqvarna makes good stuff.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

My only reservation is that I don't think it is self-propelled. Perhaps someone makes on that is. I saw it at ACE on my way out the door for $319, which I didn't think was too bad (their bike handled brush trimmers are approaching $500 now). I had my arms full of fluorescent light bulbs, so I couldn't really examine it properly. It looks pretty agressive, though.

I also noted that like my Husqv trimmer, the more expensive mowers had big fat Hondas on top.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Yeah, Self-Propelled would be nice. (and safer, because you can slip trying to push stuff up a hill) Better keep looking.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

This is really what I should be looking at:









http://www.drpower.com/twoStepInquiry.aspx?X=1&Name=Field_Brush_Mower_G&src=AW70653XE3113309&cm_mmc=Google-_-brand-field+brush-_-dr+brush-mowers-_-dr+brush+mower&crcat=brand-field+brush%7edr+brush-mowers&crsource=adwords&crkw=dr+brush+mower&crcampaign=9119611865&gclid=CMiNzIDN0asCFdY55Qod0XdaTA#n


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

ask ace if they can get the self propelled version


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Oh man, that DR is awesome. I want one. "The facts are the DR Field and Brush Mower is a brush mower, a wide cut walk behind mower, a snow blower, home generator, wood chipper, and more. "

One thing is certain, you'd never bend a crankshaft on that, 'cause the blade or whatever is belt driven.

I wonder if they have one with a super charger option, LOL?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Al, I say this with the greatest of love. Stop farting around, go buy yourself a small kabota, and start searching craigs list for the implements you need.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I know, Don, I know. I can't find lumber here but I can sure find Kubotas. They're everywhere. There must be 10 in my neighborhood alone. I'm looking at it from a cost containment perspective (at least my fiance is). The DR is $2000 - $3000. The lower end one has a small footprint but it won't take the groovy attachments that Joe mentions. The attachments are also very pricey. They've got 6 months 0% going right now but after 6 months, it's something like 23%apr. $500 a month for 6 months doesn't sound bad but my fiance will never go for it. Now the Husq trimmer for $500 or less is pretty attractive if it can really do what I need. I'm talking grass, light brush, the occasional tall weed; so the DR is total overkill. However, the DR could handle the pesky bamboo that's sprouting up and it could easily clear a trail through my woods. It's an attractive prospect. I fear that I'd get killed on the Kubota. Whatever giant track machinery cleared my hill, it left deep ruts and steep terrain. My neighbor who's lived in the holler his whole life said that the machine blotted out the sun. He said it was just swinging its boom back and forth, knocking down 36" diameter trees like they were invisible. I would have liked to see that!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Cr, this is what perplexes me as a novice-at-best mechanic. Looking at the crankshaft, unless the bend is at the extreme end where the blade attaches, it doesn't seem like the machine would run. Looking at precisely that extreme part of the shaft where the blade attaches, it's a seriously solid piece of metal, possibly even 2 inches in diameter. It would take ALOT to bend that stumpy little shaft. I can see the rotational forces transmitting up into the crankshaft when the blade suddenly stopped, but it seems like that kind of damage would prevent the motor from running appropriately. At the end of the season, I'm going to take it apart. I assume it's a total loss, so there's no real risk. I'll salvage the motor for a homebrewed log splitter or a gocart of something. It's a nice new 7+hp Briggs with only a few hours on it. I think I'll get either the Snapper or a Honda/Husqvarna next season. We'll see.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Al. I had a mower with a bent shaft many years ago. Don't remember much about it. One of my first mowers. It does happen. It doesn't have to bend much to cause a lot of trouble when whirling around at a couple three rpm ;-) Even if it is outside the crankcase, it won't do your bearing much good!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Hmmmm.

http://charlestonwv.craigslist.org/grd/2622172410.html


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Al, no blade or snow blower for pushing snow. The dual tire do a nice job for that


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

kubota's got 60 months 0% interest. Check it out.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

On the "lighter side" 
FORGET ABOUT the brush mower.
For your side hills "buy some Sheep !
PRO's:" Rocks don't bother them, and the lawn will be fertilized.
Maybe one day a sweater for cool evenings 
Cons: Fertilizer is something you might not want to step in !


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Sheep fertilizer is no biggie to step in, you can play marbles with it ;-)) It is cow that oozes up between your toes;-((


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Meadow Muffins keep the toes warm


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Jason heard sheep and his ears perked up…..


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Look at him go!!!!!!!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Herding is one of his favorite things. I will have to get him back out there soon. About 3 weeks of crutches left.


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## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

Bertha, just found your post and was too lazy to read them all.

I did the same to a Briggs engine on a push mower. Bent the crank shaft. Took the engine apart. Took the bent crank to a lawn mower repair shop. The took me in back where they had a pile of engines. The guy picked up a matching engine. Sold be the crank for $10. Went back in a hour and he had it out. I put in en and the engine ran for another ten years until the rest of the mower wore out.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks Pimz! I'm torn between treating myself to a new piece of lawn equipment (that I don't have to beg for) versus trying to fix my existing one. At least I've got a season to play with the idea. Thanks again!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I'll bet it won' start now? If that is the problem, she probably had just sheared the key in the flywheel. Check to see if you have spark. If not or if it is weak, pull the flywheel off and look at the key. If it sheared even the slightest, it will mess up the ignition and if it is is too much, it will not spark. I had that happen on the JD tractor. It was sheared only about .010" and would not start! All of the small engines have the key in the flywheel to set the spark from the magneto at the precise time.

You will need a puller to get that flywheel off. The key is about 75 cents.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Bertha - I can't believe this thread is still alive so it must be time for me to weigh in. I agonized over mowers for a long time. I finally figured out that you can buy an el cheapo annually or you can buy a DIXIE CHOPPER and be happy for the rest of your life! I've had mine for 8 years, mow 12 acres a week during the summer, grind leaves all winter, haul hay with a 12' trailer hooked to the chopper, haul lots of firewood on the same trailer, spray weeds with the 15 gal spray rig I can attach to my homemade receiver hitch. Now just go get one and get on with your life. By the way their logo says: Worlds Fastest Lawnmower. Nuff said!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks gfadvm, I've considered in the past but to be honest, I kind of forgot about it. I got my DR field and brush mower dvd in the mail and they're pretty impressive. Of course, the smallest 24" one (the most reasonable size for my property) won't accept the accessories (chipper, snowblower, etc.). Which means I buying a larger machine for the potential to use very expensive accessories I'll likely never buy. To make matters worse, my Woodmizer dvd came in at the same time I'm going to look into the chopper again. Thanks doc!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Y'all will never believe this. I fixed my mower. How?
I hit another stump going in the opposite direction.
I kid you not.
I wish I'd taken video before and after because I'm having a hard time believing it myself. 
I'm wondering if like cr1 said a while back, there was something that got jarred out of line. I had planned on getting a new mower, so I was disinclined to spend a bunch of time fooling with it. 
Purrs like a kitten now.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

For some reason that reminds of of wayne's story about the mechanic hitting the airplane with a slug hammer to get it going.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I hadn't thought of hitting it with a hammer; surprised I didn't


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

hmmm, that would have been my first thought.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Hammer + first thought = Me, too.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

when there is no other cure … brute force and ignorance prevail again! Thats my go to, the wife wont let me handle anythign delicate any more, no removing printer ink cartridges for me.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

That's kind of what I did. I figured since it was broken anyway, I could just torture it through thick brush. It teetered on bog down/stall for a good hour before I hit a stump (actually more like a root). A big block of wood was wedged b/w the blade and guard. I should have made a pen of the wood, lol, but I was so happy to finally free it that I flung it into the creek. It took a few pulls to restart but when it did, voila! I couldn't believe it.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

LOL, Al. The downside is now you don't have a reason to buy some awesome machine.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Yeah Joe, I realized that almost immediately but it was too late not to tell the better half; I was simply too astounded by it. I think I can still work out the small DR trimmer for the heavy stuff, to protect the mower from abuse and all, lol.

Cr1, it does and I'm not sure. I'm open to suggestions


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

if your going to hit stumps that often, its time to find a better way anyhow.


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

*Y'all will never believe this. I fixed my mower. How?
I hit another stump going in the opposite direction.*

Down side Al, your mower is now one step closer to total meltdown; IE whatever (my guess shear pin) you jarred or bent in the first place is now,... just that much,... weaker!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

CampD, that would be par for the course. I've already got a few hundred a month in the budget for a new machine next season. I probably should have kept my mouth shut with the missus. I think you're right, though, I doubt he's got another stump left in him.

I found this: "These engines have a tendency to sheer flywheel keys. If this happens, you may have no spark, or it may spark at the wrong time because the flywheel has spun on the crankshaft. Eventually, you may want to check this." http://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/59hi8-having-trouble-js36-walk-behind-mower-brutally.html

Cr1, I like it. The Hollensworth phenomenon; you sure you're not up to something? 
http://books.google.com/books?id=hmscrSl_JycC&pg=PA324&lpg=PA324&dq=Hollingsworth+phenomenon&source=bl&ots=91OzZUXSX7&sig=6g4Vv8r6XBl_YcMP7FpTuNRCNhs&hl=en&ei=Hqu6TvWvOMnC2wX_4KjNBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=Hollingsworth%20phenomenon&f=false


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Al*:

Did you forget where you are ??

You WANT a new mower ? You go buy one-a BIG one, a riding mower, something in the 40HP range.

Forget things like turning radius. We're here for you. Buy it, and post pics !


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

lol Neil! Trust me, I've tried to get all manner of machinery past the better half. They had a Bobcat for sale down the street and I even pitched that. After 1) what are you going to do with it? and 2) do you even know how to drive it? I was sunk. I've already got a rider that I don't need (steep hills), so I've got that excess going for me I want one of those small DR brush cutters or an old Gravely. I don't need another hobby (small engine repairman), though


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Wait. She's doing what we men stereotypically do: meeting an emotional plea with a rational argument.

Tell her that … that hurts, and what YOU need, right now, is a little support.

A Bobcat would be so, so cool !


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

I can see the signage now - Al's Furniture and Hydraulics Repair.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Now we're talking!
And we're also now talking:
http://charlestonwv.craigslist.org/grd/2696630316.html


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Al - yep, that'l work - have it checked out by a mechanic first - compression test, PTO working, all gears and clutch, etc…


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Didn't NEED a whole lot of coaxing, now did you ? ;-)


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Ah, I'll never get it past the better half but I could sure have some fun with that guy. Correct me if I'm wrong, though, it still smells like a new hobby/part-time job. I actually see these Fords all the time in WV. I'm currently favoring the DR brush mower. I know that it's boring as all get out but the warranty is pretty sweet and they have reconditioned models for a decent reduction. Crap, I don't know.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I'd definitely go with whichever one has "flesh-sensing" technology.

[ducks]


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

LOL. Hopefully, they make one where the whole motor will drop down into the dirt. At a minimum, I want massive destruction of component parts; it just wouldn't be the same without that

Edit: it's only now dawning on me. If the precedent is indeed set, how far will the "reign of protection" stretch to protect dumb old us from ourselves?


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Funny thing about those Fords, you run them at at just over an idle and they work for 70 years. For about $2200 you get the whole package - as long as it has a front blade. Any three point PTO attachment that has been made for 60 years will work on that thing.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^it's tempting b/c $2200 doesn't get you very far on a DR and almost nowhere on a new Gravely. Plus, it's just friggin cool. The ATV tow-behind hogs would be an option but I don't own an ATV. I went down to the motorcycle store and quickly realized that a well-equipped one is up there in used JD Gator territory. How in the hell does everyone in WV have a $10,000 ATV? Sometimes three or more? I thought they were more like $2000, lol. I don't know why I'm surprised.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

With a Ford, you run down to Tractor Supply, get a small trailer, a few snap cotter pins and off you go - hitches on tractors are kind of standard. Watch the hills, if they are only 6' or 8' high, get a used 10' sickle blade and run the tractor on level.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Level is precisely my problem, unfortunately. I've got a JD lawn tractor for the flat stuff. I'm afraid I need a DR or Gravely but it's sure fun to look at these tractors. 80% of my property is dense woods; 10% is steep and tumultuous hills; and 10% is pretty "lawn". I overseeded with drought resistant KY bluegrass despite everyone using a fescue mix. I think it was a mistake but that's another thread


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Ever thought of a couple of goats?


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Got Cheese ?

Als Furniture repair and cheese company


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^I dream of it. I had a guy come out and give me an appraisal on a fence. His first words were, "whoa, well…" I knew I was sunk. The better half won't let me have them on a chain (PETA type).


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

3 goats, $200, pasturising equipment, $30,000, cave to age the cheese - pricelfull


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Why chain them up, tell the kids that its Rudolf walking on the roof - fence won't hold them unless you put a roof over the pen.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^that's what I've heard. "Professional fence testers" is a phrase that's been thrown around.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Very true for billy goats. They will walk out of a collar also. If they are happy, they tend to stay close, keep a female close and they won't go far. Then you will have kids.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

The Ford could lead you into another hobby. I believe a semi restored machine of that vintage is worth over $5000.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Oh no, Joe, another hobby. But if you gotta have a new hobby, it's one helluva one to have. I don't think I'm hobby-responsible enough to keep vintage tractor restoration outside the realm of pathology


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

you know Al, vintage tractors are a lot like hand planes. You can't have just one!


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Since summer is gone and winter is coming on, you really should forget about mowing grass and consider a snow blower along the lines of this:

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/silveradohdk/Funny%20Joke%20Photos/?action=view&current=NoJoke-Chevy454PoweredSnow-blower1.jpg&mediafilter=images

Next year you can get this mower.

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/silveradohdk/Funny%20Joke%20Photos/?action=view&current=NoJoke-Chevy454PoweredSnow-blower1.jpg&mediafilter=images#!oZZ277QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs108.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn5%2Fsilveradohdk%2FFunny%2520Joke%2520Photos%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DMyKindOfLawnMower.jpg%26mediafilter%3Dimages


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Your lady hit a STUMP????? Hope it wan't a relative of mine…


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Al, Take a look and maybe also drive a Jubilee before you spring for an 8N. That extra 6 to 10 horsies make a difference. I've spent time on both.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6326505&


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

David's right about the Jubilee (or later.) Besides the increased HP, they just sound and look better than their flat head predecessors IMO.

If my recollection is right the Golden Jubilee was made only for one year, (Ford Motor Co. 50th anniversary) and after that it was just a NAA and was produced for 2? years and superseded by the 640 which was produced through 1957. They were great tractors.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/3/233-ford-640.html


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Original price (USD): $2,056 (640) 
Wow, that was a lot of money back then. I really love the look.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I went to buy a Husq or a Toro at my local good ole boy ACE. The lawnmower guy said that my JD most definitely has a shear pin. JD says it doesn't; and to buy a new JD. I'm leaning toward believing the ACE guy.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I can't believe nobody laughed at my "Stumpy" joke… I've lost my faith in humanity…


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Oh! Stumpy, I didn't know you were joking!!


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Now that I read that I see what you mean. People may have thought I was saying that Bertha's lady was dumb for hitting a stump. *Not what I meant at all.*

I was saying that I hope that the STUMP wasn't a relative of mine. My name is STUMPY, it was a delicious play on words. And now it's a lot funnier because jokes are always better after you have to explain them…

Yes…I'm a moron…


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^I got it Stumps, and laughed; I should have mentioned it. Your faith in humanity is restored!


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## S4S (Jan 22, 2011)

A city crew came by trimming trees by the road side . It looked to me like they used a lawnmower type blade , because the small branches were 'feathered' out like nawed on toothpicks . Not pretty .


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Moment, you're on a bumping mission. This is fun They use those same things to cut back our roads and you're right, it's ugly. It's a friggin cool looking machine, though. It's like a giant lawnmower blade on a reciprocating arm of sorts. The guy in the cab controls it with hydraulics and a vacuum chipper thing picks up the offcuts. It's one of those "path of destruction" type things that are hard not to watch. 
.
My lawnmower fixed itself for the record.


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