# Woodworking on a Half-Shoestring



## retired_guru

*Aches, pains and pallet wood, oh my!*

Following its recent successful creation, I opted to give Franken-Rack free rein to terrorize the domain. It was my hope that it would bring home the finest lumber in all the land. Instead, it brought me pallet and crate wood. Several times I have berated the misbegotten creation, but to no avail. It is obvious to me now that the creature enjoys domination over the rough, mistreated wood that will require hours of hacking and mutilation on my part to make use of its offerings. Franken-Rack will be the death of me. I'm sure of it. Mark my words…

~~~

I spend about 6 hours between yesterday and today breaking up pallets and crate wood, prying nails from both the good and bad pieces. I'm certain I have developed tennis elbow from all the hammering and prying. That's okay, because I have still have the left one. There is something to be said for having a spare. All in all, I can't complain. Since working on the Franken-Rack-and all the work I have been doing to disassemble pallets, clear out space for the a shop in the dungeon-I have been feeling…satisfied. Content. Fulfilled. What a feeling. I had forgotten.

And speaking of how I feel, time to take a pain-killer. Then I better check on Franken-Rack: I caught it the other day trying to grab a street cat attempting to mark my tires.


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## revrok

retired_guru said:


> *Aches, pains and pallet wood, oh my!*
> 
> Following its recent successful creation, I opted to give Franken-Rack free rein to terrorize the domain. It was my hope that it would bring home the finest lumber in all the land. Instead, it brought me pallet and crate wood. Several times I have berated the misbegotten creation, but to no avail. It is obvious to me now that the creature enjoys domination over the rough, mistreated wood that will require hours of hacking and mutilation on my part to make use of its offerings. Franken-Rack will be the death of me. I'm sure of it. Mark my words…
> 
> ~~~
> 
> I spend about 6 hours between yesterday and today breaking up pallets and crate wood, prying nails from both the good and bad pieces. I'm certain I have developed tennis elbow from all the hammering and prying. That's okay, because I have still have the left one. There is something to be said for having a spare. All in all, I can't complain. Since working on the Franken-Rack-and all the work I have been doing to disassemble pallets, clear out space for the a shop in the dungeon-I have been feeling…satisfied. Content. Fulfilled. What a feeling. I had forgotten.
> 
> And speaking of how I feel, time to take a pain-killer. Then I better check on Franken-Rack: I caught it the other day trying to grab a street cat attempting to mark my tires.


Theme of your posts fits my world well. Enjoying your blogs… just discovered


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## retired_guru

*Dollar Store Glue Applicators*

A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:










When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.

This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:










The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.

The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


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## JoeinGa

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


I'm with you Brother! I bought 2 of these at my local dollar store a few months ago. Mine have the "flat heads" like the ones on the right in your pic. 
A buck apiece and no shipping. Dont get much cheaper than that!


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## fredc

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


But golly gee whiz, none of those other brushes say "Rockler" on the handle. How can I possibly be a real woodworker if I don't have some big name brand stamped on my tools? (nice find by the way, thanks for the tip)


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## NormG

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


I purchased some a few months back also, they are great


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## macatlin1

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


I bought the ones on the right at the Dollar Store too. I did run them through the kitchen first to use the knife to shorten the bristles to about 3/4 of an inch. I have since added several more to my collection as the glue needs to pretty much dry completly to easily peel off the brush. After each use I hang them up to dry and before use I peel the dried glue out and they are as good as new. My only complaint is that they hold so much glue which drips off when hanging to dry.


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?





> I m with you Brother! I bought 2 of these at my local dollar store a few months ago. Mine have the "flat heads" like the ones on the right in your pic.
> A buck apiece and no shipping. Dont get much cheaper than that!
> 
> - JoeinGa


You got it, Joe! Great idea to shorten the length of the bristles. I will be following your lead. Thanks!


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?





> But golly gee whiz, none of those other brushes say "Rockler" on the handle. How can I possibly be a real woodworker if I don t have some big name brand stamped on my tools? (nice find by the way, thanks for the tip)
> 
> - fredc


Ha,ha, Fred. I was thinking of making up some Rockler decals so I could sleep better at night.


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?





> I purchased some a few months back also, they are great
> 
> - NormG


Great! Thanks for letting me know, Norm.


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?





> I bought the ones on the right at the Dollar Store too. I did run them through the kitchen first to use the knife to shorten the bristles to about 3/4 of an inch. I have since added several more to my collection as the glue needs to pretty much dry completly to easily peel off the brush. After each use I hang them up to dry and before use I peel the dried glue out and they are as good as new. My only complaint is that they hold so much glue which drips off when hanging to dry.
> 
> - macatlin1


Thanks for the tip! I bought so many so I could let them dry before cleaning. I will be shortening the longer tipped ones, as you have done.


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## DurocShark

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


Hey now, For $1.89 mine says Woodcraft on it!



I love the dollar store for stuff like this though. Good find!


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?





> Hey now, For $1.89 mine says Woodcraft on it!
> 
> 
> 
> I love the dollar store for stuff like this though. Good find!
> 
> - DurocShark


I hear ya, Don.


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## Mean_Dean

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


This is like closing the barn door after the horse has escaped. I already have the Rocker…........!


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?





> This is like closing the barn door after the horse has escaped. I already have the Rocker…........!
> 
> - Mean_Dean


I won't tell if you won't.


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## Edwardnorton

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


I never thought about the dollar store having these.*THANK YOU* so much for posting this. I have wanted to pick up a few of these but hell would freeze over before I spent what Rockler & a few other online woodworking supply houses charge. There markup is a real rape of those that like working with wood.

Thanks again!


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## JoeinGa

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


OK, so it's been 2 years since this post was started and still the information is applicable. How GREAT is this site!

I'm still using the two that I bought 2 years ago, and I also shortened the bristles so they dont hold so much glue. I figure they're for glue spreading, and not glue storage 

Here's a picture of pretty much the same version that I found at our local dollar store
.
.


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## Gene01

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


I keep my dollar store brush in a jar of water after use. A few wipes on a paper towel and its good to go.
It helps if you wipe off most of the glue before storing in the jar. Cutting the bristles to about 3/4", as some have suggested, really helps, too.


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## revrok

retired_guru said:


> *Dollar Store Glue Applicators*
> 
> A short time ago I found a tip on the Web that I had to follow-up on. Rockler sells a silicone bristled glue applicator brush for $4.99:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the white/yellow glue dries on the bristles, it peels and flakes off with little resistance. Nice. Buy the brush once and you won't have to replace it any time soon.
> 
> This tip I found was even better. Your local dollar store sells silicone basters for the kitchen for a fifth of the price of Rockler's offering. Here's what I picked up today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three large brushes on the left were a buck a piece, the two smaller brushes came as a duet for the same price.
> 
> The best part? With a little soap and water washup, I can use these in the kitchen to help baste the Thanksgiving bird. How's that for frugal?


Great find!!! I have a Rockler model that I love, but cheaper is always better and why not have a bunch!


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## retired_guru

*Makita Banana*

So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.

I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:





































Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.

It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.


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## JoeinGa

retired_guru said:


> *Makita Banana*
> 
> So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.
> 
> I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.
> 
> It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.


Good find. I actually GAVE one of these away a few years back. (Dumb move on my part)


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Makita Banana*
> 
> So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.
> 
> I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.
> 
> It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.





> Good find. I actually GAVE one of these away a few years back. (Dumb move on my part)
> 
> - JoeinGa


Aww, man. You must have a heart of gold.

(I'll bet you won't do that again!)


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## Pappyj

retired_guru said:


> *Makita Banana*
> 
> So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.
> 
> I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.
> 
> It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.


I'm amazed at the deals I've found on craigslist. I picked up a craftsman router and 18 bits for $50. I just recently got a craftsman 2.7 hp tablesaw and a rigid chop saw with the laser sight for $150 bucks. All the stuff looked like it had barely been used. I like it when people need to make more room in their garage.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Makita Banana*
> 
> So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.
> 
> I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.
> 
> It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.





> I m amazed at the deals I ve found on craigslist. I picked up a craftsman router and 18 bits for $50. I just recently got a craftsman 2.7 hp tablesaw and a rigid chop saw with the laser sight for $150 bucks. All the stuff looked like it had barely been used. I like it when people need to make more room in their garage.
> 
> - Jared


I agree. Craigslist is like one humongous garage sale. I truly have no idea why I didn't camp out there when I first started equipping my woodworking needs. Lesson learned!


----------



## cynic73

retired_guru said:


> *Makita Banana*
> 
> So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.
> 
> I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.
> 
> It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.


I love craigslist. I outfitted my shop entirely form that sight except for my router + table, table saw, and my DC were new purchases.


----------



## revrok

retired_guru said:


> *Makita Banana*
> 
> So, it finally occurred to me that I should be looking to Craigslist for used tool deals. It's not like I didn't know I should. Sometimes, it takes more twacks from the two-by-four.
> 
> I live in a rural area, in the middle of nowhere, equidistant from anything important. It took a bit of search engine extortion to get listings for my fair little cow country. The best deal was a Makita Model 5008NBA 8-1/4" Circular Saw (less blade) for twenty-five bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a lot of bananas for a quality tool. Within the hour I was listening to it fire up (such sweet music, truly) and smiling all the way home while it road beside me.
> 
> It has some time on it, needs a good cleaning and a better power cord, but everything else that matters is rock solid. I know of several characters that have made decent table saws from circular saws. Two of them with a Makita. Definitely. I see a future project peaking above the horizon.


Craigslist is awesome! My latest find is a wormdrive HD77 Skil that looks and operates like the previous owner used it once… $80, not my greatest bargain, but a solid one. I have a tablesaw, bandsaw, multi-tool and many others that are either part or complete CL finds. There is a Bosch jigsaw on CL right now for $20… killing me that I don't have time to go get it!


----------



## retired_guru

*Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*

About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.

This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.

The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.









This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.









The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.









Another angle…









And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.









The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.









I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.









As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.









The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.









Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.









I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.









I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.

Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.

I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.


Clever fix there!
Like you i try to get by with mostly not-top-of-the-line-tools and end up spending a lot of time fixing them instead. Luckily i like tinkering and quite enjoy tuning tools and the like.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.





> Clever fix there!
> Like you i try to get by with mostly not-top-of-the-line-tools and end up spending a lot of time fixing them instead. Luckily i like tinkering and quite enjoy tuning tools and the like.
> 
> - kaerlighedsbamsen


Thanks! Me, too. Tinkering is a way of life, I guess. I'd have it no other way.


----------



## Racer2007

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.


Good fix for a Cheap TS. I just don't like to have to do that on a Not Cheap TS or other tool. Now I do know that almost if not all tools like a Table Saw will require some setup out of the box and thats Ok , I just don't want to have to redesign the thing to make it work if I spent a bunch of mony for it.


----------



## thenetdog

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.


It looks like you made a cheap saw into a better tool. As for the insert, I made a few from 1/2" MDF and used a router to clear out recesses to match the locations of the holding tabs on the saw. Mattias Wendel has a good example here:

http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/insert.html


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.





> Good fix for a Cheap TS. I just don t like to have to do that on a Not Cheap TS or other tool. Now I do know that almost if not all tools like a Table Saw will require some setup out of the box and thats Ok , I just don t want to have to redesign the thing to make it work if I spent a bunch of mony for it.
> 
> - Richard


Agreed. That boils me! I understand the concept of value versus price. Usually, I accept and sometimes look forward to finagling with a cheap purchase to make it better. Expensive and quality stuff shouldn't need my tinkerer ways. Finding the balance is the challenge. Not biting off more than you can chew is a big one, too.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.





> It looks like you made a cheap saw into a better tool. As for the insert, I made a few from 1/2" MDF and used a router to clear out recesses to match the locations of the holding tabs on the saw. Mattias Wendel has a good example here:
> 
> http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/insert.html
> 
> - thenetdog


Thanks. It is a lot better than what I started with, but I am still not happy with where I am at. Before I get into that…

I follow Matthias and saw the reference you pointed to a short time ago. Unfortunately, Skil deemed it valuable and necessary (I say that sarcastically, as in oxymoronic) to make the recessed areas that support the insert require a thin, 3/32" metal plate. The only reference to fix for this that I have found is here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-zero-clearance-throatplate-for-any-table-saw/

I'm not excited about the gaps fore and aft of the wood slot insert, but I'm sure with some thought a snug-fitting slot insert could be fashioned easily enough.

The only other way to get around this is to add a new top (as an added layer) or build a new top from thick melamine, attach the motor/arbor assembly to it, and encase it all in a new chassis. A lot of work, but doable.

I mentioned early on about not being happy? I found out earlier today that the extruded aluminum rip fence body is not straight and square throughout its length. It's not off by a lot, enough so a square set on the table and butted up against the fence will show a little light either at the bottom, middle or top of the fence, depending on where I measure along the fence's length.

On the plus side, I went back to adding two layers of blue tape to the inside clamping edges of the fence mount on the outside of the graduated rail. That helped a lot-it's almost rock solid all along the fence.

I know most here would trash this and move on. I may have to, but not quite yet. I don't like to lose battles, especially when I can't *afford* to win the whole war.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.


Btw have you concidered trying this: http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/fence.html
- Might be worth the trouble if the rest of the machine is ok..


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Thunked-up Skilsaw 3410-02 Fence Fix*
> 
> About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn't enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe's and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time-it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come-but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered (and on sale at that), it was really, really, REALLY, a cheap saw. I fired it up once, then let it sit in our enclosed back porch while I moaned and groaned about the horrible winter that followed.
> 
> This summer I got busy with trying to set this baby up, gleaning what I could from YouTube Woodworking Gurus. The more I watched and learned, the deeper my perpetual frown became. Because…I bought a REALLY cheap saw. I spent hours adjusting settings on the blade and fence. Just when I thought I had things into alignment a post-cut inspection proved otherwise. I finally got the blade to within .20" alignment difference front to back with the right miter slot-that's the best this sloppy-mounted direct-drive motor carriage would allow for-but was still crying over the fence's stubborn desire to cock the back end in toward the blade no matter how I adjusted it. This morning I decided to tackle the problem.
> 
> The pictures that follow clearly illustrate the problem and what I did to mostly fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This close up shows the degree of cant that would force the fence to misalign itself once the clamp was cinched down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cause? Poor (okay, let's not sugar coat this - TERRIBLE!) designing of the clamping mechanism. The long bolt is barely half the width of the inner diameter of the spring. The spring has no choice but to swing to one side once pressure is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another. Notice the flaring of the bottom cut edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The (temporary) solution that came to mind was to find a tube that could act as a bushing to keep the spring centered. Thankfully, I am a hoarder as well as a tinkerer. Nothing gets thrown out that doesn't have potential. The sponge rubber tube to the right of the spring (I think it came as one a several extras in a cell phone headset from years ago) was all I could find that would make a snug fit in the spring and around the long bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I threaded the sponge rubber as far as it would go, then cut off the excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it went on nice and snug. I had high hopes at this point that this would solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sponge rubber not only centered the bolt, it also decreased the play between the aluminum fence and the steel clamp. A nice bonus, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so it's not perfectly square. You can't say this isn't a notable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted the fence and first aligned it by running my fingertip along the fence bottom in relationship to the top edge of the right side of the right miter slot. A check with a sliding square showed I was close enough for government work. And the clamping mechanism doesn't shift the back end of the fence now when I clamp it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look it here, but this is pretty much aligned with the miter slot. What makes it look off is the fact that the fence sits higher off the table at the front than at the back. Whatever. I feel safer now.
> 
> Other fixes that needed to be done like yesterday: 1) finding a safe way to make cheap zero-clearance inserts only 3/32" thick; 2) grinding the (ridiculous) tabs off the miter slots, and; 3) building a wood base with dust collection.
> 
> I think I'll go and grab another cup of 'joe', instead.





> Btw have you concidered trying this: http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/fence.html
> - Might be worth the trouble if the rest of the machine is ok..
> 
> - kaerlighedsbamsen


Actually, I have. And some other designs I thought were solid and doable with my present collection (or lack thereof) of tools to get the job done right. It's my opinion that if I were to clad both sides of the extruded rail with a thick and true material, I could salvage the current fence. If I am going to start over, I might as well built a new chassis and top, as well. That may happen yet.


----------



## retired_guru

*Pennysaver Acquisition: Delta Belt/Disc Sander & Scroll Saw*

This past week I picked up a couple of older power tools that look to have great promise. The first is a Delta Model 31-460 Type 2 Belt/ Disc Sander. The other a Delta Model 40-530 Scroll Saw.

I spend about an hour cleaning up and adjusting the sander. It runs well, but as you can see from the photos it needs some cleaning up in areas where surface rust has formed. The miter and ledge are in fine working over. The sanding belt needs to be replaced. From the v-shaped groove in the stop, I would guess it needed to be replaced a long time ago. Incidentally, I have the Harbor Freight version of this model and what a difference in ruggedness, precision and power. I'm looking forward to making a lot of saw dust with this.




























The scroll saw has been patiently waiting for a little TLC. A thin layer of rust has coated the entire surface of the top plate. It doesn't appear to have caused pitting, but of course I'll know for sure once I get to cleaning. The #12 blade that came with it was definitely abused, so it was chucked. I was really surprised at how quiet and smooth running it was when I first turned it on at the original owner's garage.




























Basically, I got both of these for $75.00. Time will tell if I got a bargain or not.


----------



## CO_Goose

retired_guru said:


> *Pennysaver Acquisition: Delta Belt/Disc Sander & Scroll Saw*
> 
> This past week I picked up a couple of older power tools that look to have great promise. The first is a Delta Model 31-460 Type 2 Belt/ Disc Sander. The other a Delta Model 40-530 Scroll Saw.
> 
> I spend about an hour cleaning up and adjusting the sander. It runs well, but as you can see from the photos it needs some cleaning up in areas where surface rust has formed. The miter and ledge are in fine working over. The sanding belt needs to be replaced. From the v-shaped groove in the stop, I would guess it needed to be replaced a long time ago. Incidentally, I have the Harbor Freight version of this model and what a difference in ruggedness, precision and power. I'm looking forward to making a lot of saw dust with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The scroll saw has been patiently waiting for a little TLC. A thin layer of rust has coated the entire surface of the top plate. It doesn't appear to have caused pitting, but of course I'll know for sure once I get to cleaning. The #12 blade that came with it was definitely abused, so it was chucked. I was really surprised at how quiet and smooth running it was when I first turned it on at the original owner's garage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, I got both of these for $75.00. Time will tell if I got a bargain or not.


I have the same sander. I had to buy a replacement disk for it since the one that came with it was not at a 90 degree angle to the drive shaft that it connects to. The replacement is perfect, and the setup runs great.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Pennysaver Acquisition: Delta Belt/Disc Sander & Scroll Saw*
> 
> This past week I picked up a couple of older power tools that look to have great promise. The first is a Delta Model 31-460 Type 2 Belt/ Disc Sander. The other a Delta Model 40-530 Scroll Saw.
> 
> I spend about an hour cleaning up and adjusting the sander. It runs well, but as you can see from the photos it needs some cleaning up in areas where surface rust has formed. The miter and ledge are in fine working over. The sanding belt needs to be replaced. From the v-shaped groove in the stop, I would guess it needed to be replaced a long time ago. Incidentally, I have the Harbor Freight version of this model and what a difference in ruggedness, precision and power. I'm looking forward to making a lot of saw dust with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The scroll saw has been patiently waiting for a little TLC. A thin layer of rust has coated the entire surface of the top plate. It doesn't appear to have caused pitting, but of course I'll know for sure once I get to cleaning. The #12 blade that came with it was definitely abused, so it was chucked. I was really surprised at how quiet and smooth running it was when I first turned it on at the original owner's garage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, I got both of these for $75.00. Time will tell if I got a bargain or not.





> I have the same sander. I had to buy a replacement disk for it since the one that came with it was not at a 90 degree angle to the drive shaft that it connects to. The replacement is perfect, and the setup runs great.
> 
> - CO_Goose


On mine the disc has one small high spot, but I won't know if this will be a problem until I get a chance to use it. It's good to know that I can still get parts for it.


----------



## retired_guru

*Refinishing a Skilsaw 3410-02 Table Saw Top*

I have already blogged about the poor quality rip fence that came with this model table saw. The minor modifications I noted earlier have made the fence mostly accurate. Eventually, I will either add material to it to build it up in size and maybe make it dead-accurate or I'll build my own.

Yesterday, I posted a question in the forum about using a Gripper push block system on a textured surface. That generated a variety of comments. What I got out of it is that the rough, textured top that came on this saw was not going to give me a safe working saw. In retrospect, this explains why I have shied away from using it, even when it was the best tool for the job at hand. I just knew it wasn't safe. I mean, this top is so rough, if I pushed a 12" piece two-by-four on the top, it would move a fraction of an inch and stop dead. I decided I was too far into this project to abandon it. It was time to sand. This is what the top looked like before I got started. That rough texture is not pitting, but hard granules sitting on top of the surface and baked into the powder coat finish:



















The aluminum top on the 3410-02 is a very thin casting. The entire saw has to be dead-level to be sure the four corners of the top would be in the same plane. I clamped the saw to the top of a leveled Black and Decker Workmate. I started off the sanding with 150 grit on an 1/4 cut sheet oscillating sander. This got quite a bit of the rough powder coat off and took down to the aluminum some of the high areas. At this point I changed over to wet sanding with 320 grit using a large hand block, using a straight edge as I went to make sure I was addressing high spots and not creating any lows. I finished off the sanding with 400 grit. This is what the top looked like *after* the sanding:



















After sanding, I wiped down the top with a mild detergent and water. When dry, I applied two coats of The Original Formula HC Johnson Wax. The surface now looks like I had applied a couple of coats of Future Acrylic finish to the top:










To test the success of the sanding and waxing, I took that same piece of rough lumber and pushed it onto the top. It skated nicely across and off the back end of the saw.

But of course, this can't be the end of the tale….

Putting it all together, I once again saw how the riving knife didn't appear to be in the right plane in relation to the blade. Quite a bit of (more) finagling and I lost patience with. Both bolts came out and I pulled the knife assembly to see what I could find. I blew out the sawdust and made sure it was clean. The knife appeared to be straight. It had to be in the way the mount was securing to the base. Sure enough, the knurled underside of each bolt was moving the mounting plate when tightened down. What solved the problem was the addition of a regular and lock washer to each securing bolt. This is a perfect example of pricing/marketing overriding usability and safety. Here is the riving assembly and mount with the washers added. It's aligned now:










Next step? Build a heavy wooden base with individually leveling feet. The feet are coming in mid-next-week. I should have the base built by tomorrow.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Refinishing a Skilsaw 3410-02 Table Saw Top*
> 
> I have already blogged about the poor quality rip fence that came with this model table saw. The minor modifications I noted earlier have made the fence mostly accurate. Eventually, I will either add material to it to build it up in size and maybe make it dead-accurate or I'll build my own.
> 
> Yesterday, I posted a question in the forum about using a Gripper push block system on a textured surface. That generated a variety of comments. What I got out of it is that the rough, textured top that came on this saw was not going to give me a safe working saw. In retrospect, this explains why I have shied away from using it, even when it was the best tool for the job at hand. I just knew it wasn't safe. I mean, this top is so rough, if I pushed a 12" piece two-by-four on the top, it would move a fraction of an inch and stop dead. I decided I was too far into this project to abandon it. It was time to sand. This is what the top looked like before I got started. That rough texture is not pitting, but hard granules sitting on top of the surface and baked into the powder coat finish:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum top on the 3410-02 is a very thin casting. The entire saw has to be dead-level to be sure the four corners of the top would be in the same plane. I clamped the saw to the top of a leveled Black and Decker Workmate. I started off the sanding with 150 grit on an 1/4 cut sheet oscillating sander. This got quite a bit of the rough powder coat off and took down to the aluminum some of the high areas. At this point I changed over to wet sanding with 320 grit using a large hand block, using a straight edge as I went to make sure I was addressing high spots and not creating any lows. I finished off the sanding with 400 grit. This is what the top looked like *after* the sanding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding, I wiped down the top with a mild detergent and water. When dry, I applied two coats of The Original Formula HC Johnson Wax. The surface now looks like I had applied a couple of coats of Future Acrylic finish to the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test the success of the sanding and waxing, I took that same piece of rough lumber and pushed it onto the top. It skated nicely across and off the back end of the saw.
> 
> But of course, this can't be the end of the tale….
> 
> Putting it all together, I once again saw how the riving knife didn't appear to be in the right plane in relation to the blade. Quite a bit of (more) finagling and I lost patience with. Both bolts came out and I pulled the knife assembly to see what I could find. I blew out the sawdust and made sure it was clean. The knife appeared to be straight. It had to be in the way the mount was securing to the base. Sure enough, the knurled underside of each bolt was moving the mounting plate when tightened down. What solved the problem was the addition of a regular and lock washer to each securing bolt. This is a perfect example of pricing/marketing overriding usability and safety. Here is the riving assembly and mount with the washers added. It's aligned now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step? Build a heavy wooden base with individually leveling feet. The feet are coming in mid-next-week. I should have the base built by tomorrow.


I just finished ripping a 2-1/2" strip (measured off the front fence rail) from a piece of 5/8" OSB with two adjacent factory cut edges, the longer of the two against the fence. A square showed the cut edge to be square vertically all along the cut. A straight edge along the length of the cut showed it was dead on and square to the smaller adjacent factory edge. Nice. Even with the rough side running along the table top the wood moved easily across the top. Very nice. But of course, happy endings always end in a twist. The measured width of the piece was 2-7/16" wide. Tomorrow I will work on the taking some plastic off the fence's clear measure indicator.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen

retired_guru said:


> *Refinishing a Skilsaw 3410-02 Table Saw Top*
> 
> I have already blogged about the poor quality rip fence that came with this model table saw. The minor modifications I noted earlier have made the fence mostly accurate. Eventually, I will either add material to it to build it up in size and maybe make it dead-accurate or I'll build my own.
> 
> Yesterday, I posted a question in the forum about using a Gripper push block system on a textured surface. That generated a variety of comments. What I got out of it is that the rough, textured top that came on this saw was not going to give me a safe working saw. In retrospect, this explains why I have shied away from using it, even when it was the best tool for the job at hand. I just knew it wasn't safe. I mean, this top is so rough, if I pushed a 12" piece two-by-four on the top, it would move a fraction of an inch and stop dead. I decided I was too far into this project to abandon it. It was time to sand. This is what the top looked like before I got started. That rough texture is not pitting, but hard granules sitting on top of the surface and baked into the powder coat finish:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum top on the 3410-02 is a very thin casting. The entire saw has to be dead-level to be sure the four corners of the top would be in the same plane. I clamped the saw to the top of a leveled Black and Decker Workmate. I started off the sanding with 150 grit on an 1/4 cut sheet oscillating sander. This got quite a bit of the rough powder coat off and took down to the aluminum some of the high areas. At this point I changed over to wet sanding with 320 grit using a large hand block, using a straight edge as I went to make sure I was addressing high spots and not creating any lows. I finished off the sanding with 400 grit. This is what the top looked like *after* the sanding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding, I wiped down the top with a mild detergent and water. When dry, I applied two coats of The Original Formula HC Johnson Wax. The surface now looks like I had applied a couple of coats of Future Acrylic finish to the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test the success of the sanding and waxing, I took that same piece of rough lumber and pushed it onto the top. It skated nicely across and off the back end of the saw.
> 
> But of course, this can't be the end of the tale….
> 
> Putting it all together, I once again saw how the riving knife didn't appear to be in the right plane in relation to the blade. Quite a bit of (more) finagling and I lost patience with. Both bolts came out and I pulled the knife assembly to see what I could find. I blew out the sawdust and made sure it was clean. The knife appeared to be straight. It had to be in the way the mount was securing to the base. Sure enough, the knurled underside of each bolt was moving the mounting plate when tightened down. What solved the problem was the addition of a regular and lock washer to each securing bolt. This is a perfect example of pricing/marketing overriding usability and safety. Here is the riving assembly and mount with the washers added. It's aligned now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step? Build a heavy wooden base with individually leveling feet. The feet are coming in mid-next-week. I should have the base built by tomorrow.


Why would anyone produce a TS with a rough surface? Odd..
Great to see that you acted on it and got results!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Refinishing a Skilsaw 3410-02 Table Saw Top*
> 
> I have already blogged about the poor quality rip fence that came with this model table saw. The minor modifications I noted earlier have made the fence mostly accurate. Eventually, I will either add material to it to build it up in size and maybe make it dead-accurate or I'll build my own.
> 
> Yesterday, I posted a question in the forum about using a Gripper push block system on a textured surface. That generated a variety of comments. What I got out of it is that the rough, textured top that came on this saw was not going to give me a safe working saw. In retrospect, this explains why I have shied away from using it, even when it was the best tool for the job at hand. I just knew it wasn't safe. I mean, this top is so rough, if I pushed a 12" piece two-by-four on the top, it would move a fraction of an inch and stop dead. I decided I was too far into this project to abandon it. It was time to sand. This is what the top looked like before I got started. That rough texture is not pitting, but hard granules sitting on top of the surface and baked into the powder coat finish:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum top on the 3410-02 is a very thin casting. The entire saw has to be dead-level to be sure the four corners of the top would be in the same plane. I clamped the saw to the top of a leveled Black and Decker Workmate. I started off the sanding with 150 grit on an 1/4 cut sheet oscillating sander. This got quite a bit of the rough powder coat off and took down to the aluminum some of the high areas. At this point I changed over to wet sanding with 320 grit using a large hand block, using a straight edge as I went to make sure I was addressing high spots and not creating any lows. I finished off the sanding with 400 grit. This is what the top looked like *after* the sanding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding, I wiped down the top with a mild detergent and water. When dry, I applied two coats of The Original Formula HC Johnson Wax. The surface now looks like I had applied a couple of coats of Future Acrylic finish to the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test the success of the sanding and waxing, I took that same piece of rough lumber and pushed it onto the top. It skated nicely across and off the back end of the saw.
> 
> But of course, this can't be the end of the tale….
> 
> Putting it all together, I once again saw how the riving knife didn't appear to be in the right plane in relation to the blade. Quite a bit of (more) finagling and I lost patience with. Both bolts came out and I pulled the knife assembly to see what I could find. I blew out the sawdust and made sure it was clean. The knife appeared to be straight. It had to be in the way the mount was securing to the base. Sure enough, the knurled underside of each bolt was moving the mounting plate when tightened down. What solved the problem was the addition of a regular and lock washer to each securing bolt. This is a perfect example of pricing/marketing overriding usability and safety. Here is the riving assembly and mount with the washers added. It's aligned now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step? Build a heavy wooden base with individually leveling feet. The feet are coming in mid-next-week. I should have the base built by tomorrow.





> Why would anyone produce a TS with a rough surface? Odd..
> Great to see that you acted on it and got results!
> 
> - kaerlighedsbamsen


Thanks.

This isn't the only table saw I have seen with a textured surface. When I bought it a while back, it was all I could afford at the time. I would have returned it had I used it right after I brought it home.

Why produce something like this? Who knows what drives marketing to do such stupid things. Engineers and marketers should be forced to run what they design and sell.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen

retired_guru said:


> *Refinishing a Skilsaw 3410-02 Table Saw Top*
> 
> I have already blogged about the poor quality rip fence that came with this model table saw. The minor modifications I noted earlier have made the fence mostly accurate. Eventually, I will either add material to it to build it up in size and maybe make it dead-accurate or I'll build my own.
> 
> Yesterday, I posted a question in the forum about using a Gripper push block system on a textured surface. That generated a variety of comments. What I got out of it is that the rough, textured top that came on this saw was not going to give me a safe working saw. In retrospect, this explains why I have shied away from using it, even when it was the best tool for the job at hand. I just knew it wasn't safe. I mean, this top is so rough, if I pushed a 12" piece two-by-four on the top, it would move a fraction of an inch and stop dead. I decided I was too far into this project to abandon it. It was time to sand. This is what the top looked like before I got started. That rough texture is not pitting, but hard granules sitting on top of the surface and baked into the powder coat finish:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum top on the 3410-02 is a very thin casting. The entire saw has to be dead-level to be sure the four corners of the top would be in the same plane. I clamped the saw to the top of a leveled Black and Decker Workmate. I started off the sanding with 150 grit on an 1/4 cut sheet oscillating sander. This got quite a bit of the rough powder coat off and took down to the aluminum some of the high areas. At this point I changed over to wet sanding with 320 grit using a large hand block, using a straight edge as I went to make sure I was addressing high spots and not creating any lows. I finished off the sanding with 400 grit. This is what the top looked like *after* the sanding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding, I wiped down the top with a mild detergent and water. When dry, I applied two coats of The Original Formula HC Johnson Wax. The surface now looks like I had applied a couple of coats of Future Acrylic finish to the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test the success of the sanding and waxing, I took that same piece of rough lumber and pushed it onto the top. It skated nicely across and off the back end of the saw.
> 
> But of course, this can't be the end of the tale….
> 
> Putting it all together, I once again saw how the riving knife didn't appear to be in the right plane in relation to the blade. Quite a bit of (more) finagling and I lost patience with. Both bolts came out and I pulled the knife assembly to see what I could find. I blew out the sawdust and made sure it was clean. The knife appeared to be straight. It had to be in the way the mount was securing to the base. Sure enough, the knurled underside of each bolt was moving the mounting plate when tightened down. What solved the problem was the addition of a regular and lock washer to each securing bolt. This is a perfect example of pricing/marketing overriding usability and safety. Here is the riving assembly and mount with the washers added. It's aligned now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step? Build a heavy wooden base with individually leveling feet. The feet are coming in mid-next-week. I should have the base built by tomorrow.


I think the marketers are to blame here. Professionally i have seen a lot of weird things happen to a product or a service not related to function once marketing has their say..


----------



## retired_guru

*Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*

As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:










There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:










The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.

Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.

When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.

A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.

The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:




























One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.


Love the way you think buddy. Your frugal heart must all a flutter right now…LOL!! Great save on the trim router.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.





> Love the way you think buddy. Your frugal heart must all a flutter right now…LOL!! Great save on the trim router.
> 
> - luv2learn


lol. Thanks. I grew up in an ethnic, lower-middle class family environment. Frugal was a way of life, imposed by my parents and my wallet, alike. I enjoy fixing things more than I do using them, so I am trying to change that by getting back to making things again. But, yeah, I could have afforded a new trim router. Banging my head on behalf of my frugal heart is much more fun and rewarding.


----------



## shipwright

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.


It doesn't help you right now, I know, but there is a fix for those routers before they break. I have several of the HF ones and they are exactly like that one as you say. The barrel breaks when too much pressure is put on the clamp. .......... but ….. If you put a small rubber "O" ring between the adjusting gear and the tab on the barrel, you won't break it because it doesn't need as much pressure. (You are jamming the gear, not squeezing the barrel.) 
Mine never slip and I have only broken one ( before I discovered the fix)

Given that the barrel is already broken, yours is a great fix.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.





> It doesn t help you right now, I know, but there is a fix for those routers before they break. I have several of the HF ones and they are exactly like that one as you say. The barrel breaks when too much pressure is put on the clamp. .......... but ….. If you put a small rubber "O" ring between the adjusting gear and the tab on the barrel, you won t break it because it doesn t need as much pressure. (You are jamming the gear, not squeezing the barrel.)
> Mine never slip and I have only broken one ( before I discovered the fix)
> 
> Given that the barrel is already broken, yours is a great fix.
> 
> - shipwright


Great tip! I suspected as much when I first looked at this. I didn't have any nylon washers thin enough or or-rings around. But you are right, it's the gear that needs to be clamped down, not the barrel.

I have wondered if I could get a replacement. The documentation has long since been lost and the label with the name on it, too. Even if I could, HF sells these for so little it would be better to start over with a new one. We'll see how long this lasts. I just hate throwing away a working tool, or in this case, partially working. I suppose I could make a small out of it.


----------



## LJackson

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.


Is granite or marble flat enough for the scary sharp method? I thought this method used pane glass, becuase of the way it is made (floating in a bath of something, tin comes to mind, but I don't think so) ensures it is "scary flat." In actuality, it's only curvature is that of the planet!

In other news about being a tightwad, I got six ten-inch saw blades for$40. I'll put up a review once I use one. If they're any good, they're the cheapest thing you can buy. I'll much sooner toss them than resharpen them.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.





> Is granite or marble flat enough for the scary sharp method? I thought this method used pane glass, becuase of the way it is made (floating in a bath of something, tin comes to mind, but I don t think so) ensures it is "scary flat." In actuality, it s only curvature is that of the planet!
> 
> In other news about being a tightwad, I got six ten-inch saw blades for$40. I ll put up a review once I use one. If they re any good, they re the cheapest thing you can buy. I ll much sooner toss them than resharpen them.
> 
> - LJackson


Well…it only has to be flat enough. Maybe I will end up with 'Almost Scary Sharp' or 'Scary Sharp In Another Universe'. Until I can get some diamond stones, this will have to do. As for using glass, I think the problem with glass is that not all panes are necessarily flat. Getting a thick tempered pane would cost me more than the effort is worth, I think. I'll see how this works by the weekend. If it doesn't, I have projects in mind that can use the stones as inlays. Nothing goes to waste.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.


I use 12" long pieces of 1/4" plate glass for my scary sharp. These were tempered glass shelves that I got for a buck apiece from a large department store that was closing down and liquidating all of its store fixtures. They have served just fine for sharpening purposes. I get my chisel blades and plane irons 'arm shaving' sharp with them, and have noticed no curvature. I would be wary of using any of the thinner glass plates available at the BORG. These may have uneven surfaces and sags.

Tightwads and scroungers…unite!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Marble Pieces for Scary Sharp Sharpening & Cheap Trim Router Fix*
> 
> As I struggle to get my dungeon workshop together before the cold weather makes it impossible to work outdoors, I'm slowly finding inexpensive resources and coming across cheap fixes. I was in our local hardware box store yesterday to pick up some rope caulk for our 100-year-old windows-this is an annual event-and decided to see if I could get a granite floor tile for sanding chisels on. In our fair little 'city' it's impossible to buy just one tile and no samples were to be had. With a little help from the help, I came across a box of Polished Italian Venatino marble pieces just large enough to handle my sharpening needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are enough slabs to be useful in some projects I have in mind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box sold for $5.95 USD. Not bad. I hope the marble will be as tough as granite would have been. I'll report back later, once I get a chance to do some chisel sharpening.
> 
> Along with getting a few boxes of rope caulk, I picked up a hose clamp large enough to fix a damaged adjustable trim router I had laying around for well over ten years. It looks just like one of the HF models. I purchased it about ten years ago from a roving surplus tool outfit that hits our area once in a great while. I'm sure this came off the same manufacturer's assembly line.
> 
> When I got it home, I made the mistake of not opening the box to inspect what I bought. It was a few days later when I did, long after the roving surplus event had left. What I found was a long crack in the clear plastic base, which had spread through both sides of the clamping area. This had to be caused from the shipping process or manhandling from the sales personnel while setting up each event. For years it sat in the box, until I cared enough to see if there was a fix.
> 
> A couple of years ago I attempted to repair the cracked area using a plastic and vinyl solvent called Tenax 7R. After several days of drying time, I applied spacers to either side of the adjustment cog in the hope of relieving enough pressure on the cracked area when clamping down the setting. The spacers were a good idea, but they didn't stop the crack from breaking open under clamping pressure. Once again, I put it aside and forgot about it.
> 
> The first chance I've had to use it since then was the other day. No amount of clamping pressure that was safe for the damaged clear plastic base would keep the router secured. There had to be a way to fix this problem, so I wouldn't have to throw away a working power tool. After some thunkery it occurred to me that the simplest, cheapest way to get around the limitations imposed by the cracked base was to add a clamp that compressed the top half of the base around the router. A 2-14" - 3" hose clamp was the right height and circumference to do the job. In fact, it works a little too well. I have to loosen its grip completely to allow the router to move at all. Tightening up the clamp is easily done with one hand holding the set router while the other screws in the clamp head. The clamp bites into the clear plastic, keeping it from moving while you tighten the clamp. You don't need much tension to keep the router in place. Here is what the router looks like now, after the fix:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more tool has been saved from the trash bin. My frugal heart is happy.





> I use 12" long pieces of 1/4" plate glass for my scary sharp. These were tempered glass shelves that I got for a buck apiece from a large department store that was closing down and liquidating all of its store fixtures. They have served just fine for sharpening purposes. I get my chisel blades and plane irons arm shaving sharp with them, and have noticed no curvature. I would be wary of using any of the thinner glass plates available at the BORG. These may have uneven surfaces and sags.


If this marble doesn't work, I will most likely take a trip to the glass company outside of town and see if I can acquire (free, or at least dirt cheap) a small piece of tempered glass to use instead. The only reason I ddn't go there first is we bought a 32" x 32" tempered glass top from them a short time ago at just under $90. I thought that was expensive. Beyond that, their service was terrible and the order was mislaid for a time. Living in a cow town means few choices and most inbred or act like they are.



> Tightwads and scroungers…unite!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Amen, brother!


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*

Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.

All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.

The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.

So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.

Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon. 

Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:









The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.









The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.









The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.









You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!









Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.









This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.









This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.

Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.









To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.









Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.









I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.









Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.









The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!









This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.

The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


----------



## NDakota

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


My small shop is entirely set up in old coal bin. The thick wood walls are nice for hanging things anywhere you want. Im guessing that I have more cobwebs than you do, and have never seen a spider in basement! Just take it one spot at a time and it didnt take that long to get shop up and running, enjoy.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.





> My small shop is entirely set up in old coal bin. The thick wood walls are nice for hanging things anywhere you want.


The outside wall you see will be used to mount a wall rack for lumber. I can handle that. The floor in the coal bin area is uneven dirt and coal dust. I can stir that stuff up in any way, for obvious reasons, but also because I have hefty allergies that are year round. Then there are the steel rods sticking out of the ground. Maybe I will look at reclaiming that area once the rest of the shop is up and running.



> Im guessing that I have more cobwebs than you do, and have never seen a spider in basement!


I should have taken the pictures before I removed the ones you don't see now. But if you are happy with them, can I send you mine?  As for the spiders, you have to trust me on this. Many. I mean MANY! It has gotten better since I reduced the humidity. It used to be almost 70% year round.



> Just take it one spot at a time and it didnt take that long to get shop up and running, enjoy.
> 
> - NDakota


Thanks. Today I will be vacuuming some more and moving stuff around. Later in the afternoon it should be close to 60 out and easier to get some cutting done.


----------



## Bigrock

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


It will be great a great place in time. You get a real good dust mask and you will be surprised what you can get done in a weekend. Be careful


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.





> It will be great a great place in time. You get a real good dust mask and you will be surprised what you can get done in a weekend. Be careful
> 
> - Bigrock


Yeah, I know. I'm getting my courage up to face the creepy denizens. I want this shop a little more than I want to avoid the spiders, so I do have something going for me.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


You certainly have your work cut out for you and it looks as though it may be a rather long term endeavor. I agree with NDakota, "*Just take it one spot at a time*", you have the skills to turn this into a first class shop.
Please keep us posted on your progress.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.





> You certainly have your work cut out for you and it looks as though it may be a rather long term endeavor. I agree with NDakota, "*Just take it one spot at a time*", you have the skills to turn this into a first class shop.
> Please keep us posted on your progress.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks. I'm heading for the dungeon right now. Time to haul the table and miter saws out onto the driveway to get that saw base cut and hopefully assembled today.

I will add updates on my progress. That's incentive to get things done.


----------



## Tugboater78

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


Progression of making a space for a shop is always a task, I started in my basement then my kitchen ( for a time after I demo'd it and rebuilt) then moved out to an 8×10 shed, added a 10×10 onto it, and have framed up another 10×16 beyond that.

One day I'll just build or have built a 20×24 on the back of my lot made to my specifications. Gotta finish remodeling house first though.

Good luck!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.





> Progression of making a space for a shop is always a task, I started in my basement then my kitchen ( for a time after I demo d it and rebuilt) then moved out to an 8×10 shed, added a 10×10 onto it, and have framed up another 10×16 beyond that.
> 
> One day I ll just build or have built a 20×24 on the back of my lot made to my specifications. Gotta finish remodeling house first though.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> - Tugboater78


Thanks, Tug. I know what you mean. Starting out with what you have and growing as time, space and money allow for. I gave thought to building a small shop on the property. I've seen some interesting structures using pallet and reclaimed wood. We don't know where we will be in the next three to five years, with my father's health changing and his advanced age, so the thought is to get a workable woodshop in the dungeon and that would allow us to make changes throughout the house, and if we decide to, out on the property. I think a second storage shed next Spring is a definite.


----------



## JoeinGa

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


That old oil tank would make a heck of a BBQ cooker, if you could get it out of there and into your back yard. Basically just cut the top off it where that seam is and have some angle iron welded to the insides to hold some racks.

Plus you'd gain a bit of useable space that your current plans call to wall off.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.





> That old oil tank would make a heck of a BBQ cooker, if you could get it out of there and into your back yard. Basically just cut the top off it where that seam is and have some angle iron welded to the insides to hold some racks.
> 
> Plus you d gain a bit of useable space that your current plans call to wall off.
> 
> - JoeinGa


Can't argue with your logic, Joe. But we don't cook out enough and there are only the two of us these days. Besides that, I don't have any friends around the area who could help me get the sucker out. You are welcome to it. I have to wonder, though, if there is a problem personally hauling a fuel tank across state lines.


----------



## Fired_Yo_Momma

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.


Thats F'en cool workshop. I go to England about once a year to visit friends in Henley. I would love to own an old school home like that. You should host a haunted house dungeon for Halloween and scare the kids


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon: Before Construction of a Woodworking Shop*
> 
> Our house was built in 1900, as close as the public records will tell. I know many of you are living in homes quite a bit older, especially in the U.K. and Europe, that are in much better shape than ours. The difference is where this home was built and what for. At that time in our local history, Norwich was a sizable hub for railroad traffic. Down at the East end of our street is an embankment that once looked over an large train yard with an engine turn-circle/round house. Across the street is a three-story dwelling that looks somewhat like the Munsters home-not as elaborate, but with similar architectural features. It was designed explicitly to be a boarding home for the railroad community, as was our house. But unlike the boarding home across from us, our home was build fast and with little concern for elegance or quality of construction.
> 
> All of this construction near the tracks was the Italian section. The Irish section was across the tracks to the West of us. Back in those days, you didn't cross the tracks (neighborhood to neighborhood) without repercussions. Use your imagination on what that could entail.
> 
> The Italian section of town didn't have the nicest homes and properties in our community. Those were on the other side of the tracks. You can see this disparity today, especially as the West side occupants have died off and large homes become fodder for slum lords happy to turn them into multiple dwelling rentals.
> 
> So that's a brief history of the house and why it exists. The challenges I face in creating a working woodworking shop are visually obvious. Add to that a minimal amount of funds to invest in the project and you can see I will have to improvise and make due, a lot. You may have noticed the lumber on the floor. That's what I have reclaimed so far from pallets collected in the community. Because pallet wood tends to be ash in our area, the hardwood lumber will be strong, if not pretty looking. Most of my benches will be made with this wood, using quality lumber for tops and where straightness is critical.
> 
> Last thing to mention: the spider webs. I probably should have taken some ceiling shots to show you the extensive network of cobwebs and active arachnids residing in the dungeon. I have only cleaned to the entranceway and half of the main area, to date. This will be the most difficult task for me because I have arachnophobia. That should answer your question on why has it taken so long to get the ambition up to clean up the dungeon.
> 
> Here are pictures of The Dungeon. Enter at your own peril:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outside entrance to the dungeon. This is enclosed within a two-story porch, with the back entrance to my home at my backside as I took this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foyer pathway to the dungeon. Barely noticeable in this picture is the window to the right. I have a 270 cfm variable speed fan mounted in what use to be a window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 270 cfm fan unit. I still have to insert the fan and motor, plus wire up the box (which will be mounted over the small hole on the left) which will house the variable speed switch. I also need to run 14 gauge wiring to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are now entering the dungeon. Check your anti-arachnid forcefield!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as you walk in you are greeted by this humongous behemoth of old. It probably has been 60 years or more since this house heated with oil. It will stay there. I plan on building a studded all on the two showing sides and use the space and wall for benches and tool storage, respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is to the left of entering the dungeon. The chest freezer will be relocated to the front side of the dungeon, see in following pictures. The red supports can't be moved, so the space between them and the coal bin wall will sport a wall lumber rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is at the front end of the house, where I used to have a bike shop long ago. All my bikes (four of my own and one of my wife's) are stored in the upstairs back porch. I will have to reorganize the this area and weed out the stuff that I really should get rid of. Still have some bikes to build, if only to sell off.
> 
> Notice the door? There is a room behind that wall that hasn't been used in over 20 years! I plan on doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the left of the previous picture is that space I mentioned that should hold the freezer, get it out of the main work area. The metal cabinet may be kept, but probably I will get rid of it. Pretty rusty and very flimsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning 180 degrees from the previous picture, this is the view of the opening to a room that is just to the left of when you enter the dungeon. The usable space spans the entire width of the dungeon, but it has a lot of junk in it now. Lots of cleanup, new lighting…lots of work ahead of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will relocate this storage shelf, probably in the room I just pointed to on the left. You can see the old steps that used to go upstairs. A bathroom now sits above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entrance to the old coal bin area, North side. The floor there is bare ground mixed with decades of coal dust. No reclamation possible there. It also sports rods sticking out of the ground. Not a safe place to spend time in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The South side entrance to the coal bin area. You can just see one of the two services. This used to be a two family dwelling, so it has two 100 amp services. Notice the cob webs? Unfriendlies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This area is reasonably dry year round, so it will be fine for the chest freezer. If you didn't notice early on, I have a dehumidifier running, connected to a 5 gallon bucket that I change out daily. Right now the humidity hovers between 45 and 48 percent.
> 
> The race against time is to get the table saw onto an enclosed base that will connect to a shop vac for dust collection. I can't cut anything down there until I have a mobile collection system up, but really that is mostly closing off the bottom of the table saw. Everything else has a collection port I can connect to right now. Today will be a nice day. I will have to hall out the table saw and miter saw, plus some saw horse and portable benches to get the base done today. I hope.





> Thats F en cool workshop. I go to England about once a year to visit friends in Henley. I would love to own an old school home like that. You should host a haunted house dungeon for Halloween and scare the kids
> 
> - FiredYoMomma


Heh. Be careful what you wish for! 

There are some major structural issues with the home that have us wanting out in the near future. The dungeon is not the best place for a woodshop. The ceilings are low-thankfully, I an a little Sicilian. The overhead boiler pipes are covered in asbestos and the joints between wrappings are friable. I hope to find some way to cover them up with the least amount of exposure. Then there is the crumpling concrete fllor, with chip outs as deep as a couple of inches. Yeah, you can have it. Cheap.


----------



## retired_guru

*Bench and Block Planes Purchase*

These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.

I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.

Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.


----------



## waho6o9

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.


Congrats and have some fun. Don't forget to strop the blades

with green honing compound


----------



## Notw

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.


I look forward to seeing if these planes are any good


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.





> Congrats and have some fun. Don t forget to strop the blades
> 
> with green honing compound
> 
> - waho6o9


Thanks. I haven't either at the moment, so I will have to see how well these will do at 600 grit.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.





> I look forward to seeing if these planes are any good
> 
> - Notw


Same here. Some Kobalt tools are quite good. Some, like their coping saw, is close to being junk. My guess is the worthiness of either plane will come down to ease in setting up and how well the blades hold an edge. All I could afford at the time. They have to be better than nothing at all.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.


I sharpen my blades the poor man's way, various grits of sandpaper mounted to a piece of granite but a thick piece of glass will work as well. Have fun with your new purchases.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.





> I sharpen my blades the poor man s way, various grits of sandpaper mounted to a piece of granite but a thick piece of glass will work as well. Have fun with your new purchases.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks. I will be sharpening mine just as you do, with the exception of using marble instead of granite. Hoepfully the cheap marble will hold up.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Bench and Block Planes Purchase*
> 
> These days I can't afford to splurge on many of the things I want, but I still do some impulsive shopping when the money allows for it and the urge is upon me. I had forgotten that yesterday was a holiday for some institutions in our area, in my case the credit union I have my business accounts with. Fortunately, behind and above the credit union lies our Lowe's hardware center. Sure. Why not? I needed a metal speed square, anyway.
> 
> I imagine that some of you shop much the same as I do, going in with a notion of what you want or need, but finding yourself needing to check other isles just in case you forgot something on your list. Yep. When I saw the planes I knew this was what I needed to deal with jointing and planing the edges and faces of all that pallet wood I have stored up. A power jointer and planer are purchases for a later time. This just made sense. Later today I hope to get the marble plates and sandpaper out to see if I can scary-sharp the blades on these. I'll have to see if I can find a large, flat surface for the soles. I really can't wait to make some curly shavings.
> 
> Did I get the speed square, you ask? Nope. I forgot about it in the excitement. Next time. There will always be that.


I had some time to take the No. 4 Smoothing Plane apart, clean the grease out, reassemble and set for some test cuts. I kid you not: the blade came with the ability to knick my thumbnail. My jack knives are rarely this sharp. The test planing was a success, as far as I am concerned, but I did find some trouble when I was disassembling the frog assembly:










I really need to get some planing done, so I had to decide whether to return the plane to the store or see how far it would go before it broke. If I returned it I will have to order a replacement as this was the only one in stock. Since it has a lifetime guarantee, I figured I would wait and see how it worked and decide accordingly.

For the test I took two rough-ripped boards from one of the pallets I recently broke down. I mounted each in a metal worker's vice at the center of the board. I tried to set the blade depth to the smallest possible height that I could gauge by sight, maybe no more than .010" of blade showing through the throat. The shavings are from planing the roughly 3/8" edges:










I spent only a few minutes on jointing both edges. Both were bowed to the point where the gap between them at the center was about 1/4". Here is what they look like now:










If you look closely you can see that both boards are cupped. To show the fit I placed a wedge under the outside edges of both boards.

Not bad for the time invested, the condition they were in to begin with, the fact I haven't used a hand plane this big in over four decades, and that I didn't sharpen the blade. I can see this plane helping me with my jointing and planing needs. With the lifetime guarantee to back up the future, I plan on keeping it instead of returning it.


----------



## retired_guru

*Table Saw Base: The Saga Continues*

Yesterday started out wet, as was the day before it, but the temperature was high enough I could be comfortable outdoors in a short sleeve shirt. I decided to move a couple of portable benches upstairs on the enclosed back porch to see if I could get more done on the table saw base. At that point, all I had together was the base framing, which comprised of four 2" x 4" pieces half-lap joined, glued and screwed together. I decided on building the framing longitudinally because I wanted strength with some flex. The reason for this is the dungeon floor is irregular and not even close to being flat in some areas. I planned on building a heavy base for its size to allow levelers to flex the base as needed. Because the shorter 1" x 6" boards used for the apron are butt joined to the longer sides, I also glued them as well as used screws. The longer sides are only screwed together.










The second picture shows the arrangement of the casters and how the levelers come into play because of the aprons. I didn't need to use locking casters because once the saw is wheeled to where I want it, the levelers will be engaged. It wasn't my intention to limit the swivel movement of the rotating casters, but now that I have given it some thought it's probably for the best. The base doesn't need to parallel park on a dime.










The next step is to build the framing for the top melamine board that the saw will be bolted to. Once done, I can measure what height I have created between the base and top constructions to determine what measurement is needed for the vertical corner framing. Target total height for the base is 34", perfect for my small 5' 6" frame.

With a weekend coming up, I should have the base completed by Sunday. The hold-up is not construction time. This project is being designed as I build it. Sometimes, it takes hours or days of research weighed against what I have for tools I can use and what I believe my skill level can make happen. Slow, frustrating at times, this is what I enjoy most about building things from scratch.


----------



## Tugboater78

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Base: The Saga Continues*
> 
> Yesterday started out wet, as was the day before it, but the temperature was high enough I could be comfortable outdoors in a short sleeve shirt. I decided to move a couple of portable benches upstairs on the enclosed back porch to see if I could get more done on the table saw base. At that point, all I had together was the base framing, which comprised of four 2" x 4" pieces half-lap joined, glued and screwed together. I decided on building the framing longitudinally because I wanted strength with some flex. The reason for this is the dungeon floor is irregular and not even close to being flat in some areas. I planned on building a heavy base for its size to allow levelers to flex the base as needed. Because the shorter 1" x 6" boards used for the apron are butt joined to the longer sides, I also glued them as well as used screws. The longer sides are only screwed together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second picture shows the arrangement of the casters and how the levelers come into play because of the aprons. I didn't need to use locking casters because once the saw is wheeled to where I want it, the levelers will be engaged. It wasn't my intention to limit the swivel movement of the rotating casters, but now that I have given it some thought it's probably for the best. The base doesn't need to parallel park on a dime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to build the framing for the top melamine board that the saw will be bolted to. Once done, I can measure what height I have created between the base and top constructions to determine what measurement is needed for the vertical corner framing. Target total height for the base is 34", perfect for my small 5' 6" frame.
> 
> With a weekend coming up, I should have the base completed by Sunday. The hold-up is not construction time. This project is being designed as I build it. Sometimes, it takes hours or days of research weighed against what I have for tools I can use and what I believe my skill level can make happen. Slow, frustrating at times, this is what I enjoy most about building things from scratch.


Most of my designing is done on the fly, I plan and plan but when it comes down to doing something I always hit a roadblock and have to improvise.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Base: The Saga Continues*
> 
> Yesterday started out wet, as was the day before it, but the temperature was high enough I could be comfortable outdoors in a short sleeve shirt. I decided to move a couple of portable benches upstairs on the enclosed back porch to see if I could get more done on the table saw base. At that point, all I had together was the base framing, which comprised of four 2" x 4" pieces half-lap joined, glued and screwed together. I decided on building the framing longitudinally because I wanted strength with some flex. The reason for this is the dungeon floor is irregular and not even close to being flat in some areas. I planned on building a heavy base for its size to allow levelers to flex the base as needed. Because the shorter 1" x 6" boards used for the apron are butt joined to the longer sides, I also glued them as well as used screws. The longer sides are only screwed together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second picture shows the arrangement of the casters and how the levelers come into play because of the aprons. I didn't need to use locking casters because once the saw is wheeled to where I want it, the levelers will be engaged. It wasn't my intention to limit the swivel movement of the rotating casters, but now that I have given it some thought it's probably for the best. The base doesn't need to parallel park on a dime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to build the framing for the top melamine board that the saw will be bolted to. Once done, I can measure what height I have created between the base and top constructions to determine what measurement is needed for the vertical corner framing. Target total height for the base is 34", perfect for my small 5' 6" frame.
> 
> With a weekend coming up, I should have the base completed by Sunday. The hold-up is not construction time. This project is being designed as I build it. Sometimes, it takes hours or days of research weighed against what I have for tools I can use and what I believe my skill level can make happen. Slow, frustrating at times, this is what I enjoy most about building things from scratch.





> Most of my designing is done on the fly, I plan and plan but when it comes down to doing something I always hit a roadblock and have to improvise.
> 
> - Tugboater78


It's inherent in my personality, Tugboater. I know I need to become more organized in my planning stage, but I enjoy the thrill of seeing where I can take a project on the fly. Of course, projects don't always work out.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Base: The Saga Continues*
> 
> Yesterday started out wet, as was the day before it, but the temperature was high enough I could be comfortable outdoors in a short sleeve shirt. I decided to move a couple of portable benches upstairs on the enclosed back porch to see if I could get more done on the table saw base. At that point, all I had together was the base framing, which comprised of four 2" x 4" pieces half-lap joined, glued and screwed together. I decided on building the framing longitudinally because I wanted strength with some flex. The reason for this is the dungeon floor is irregular and not even close to being flat in some areas. I planned on building a heavy base for its size to allow levelers to flex the base as needed. Because the shorter 1" x 6" boards used for the apron are butt joined to the longer sides, I also glued them as well as used screws. The longer sides are only screwed together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second picture shows the arrangement of the casters and how the levelers come into play because of the aprons. I didn't need to use locking casters because once the saw is wheeled to where I want it, the levelers will be engaged. It wasn't my intention to limit the swivel movement of the rotating casters, but now that I have given it some thought it's probably for the best. The base doesn't need to parallel park on a dime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to build the framing for the top melamine board that the saw will be bolted to. Once done, I can measure what height I have created between the base and top constructions to determine what measurement is needed for the vertical corner framing. Target total height for the base is 34", perfect for my small 5' 6" frame.
> 
> With a weekend coming up, I should have the base completed by Sunday. The hold-up is not construction time. This project is being designed as I build it. Sometimes, it takes hours or days of research weighed against what I have for tools I can use and what I believe my skill level can make happen. Slow, frustrating at times, this is what I enjoy most about building things from scratch.


*"This project is being designed as I build it. Sometimes, it takes hours or days of research weighed against what I have for tools I can use and what I believe my skill level can make happen. Slow, frustrating at times, this is what I enjoy most about building things from scratch."*
technoslick, you have just described the thought processes most of us go through when engaged in a project .


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Base: The Saga Continues*
> 
> Yesterday started out wet, as was the day before it, but the temperature was high enough I could be comfortable outdoors in a short sleeve shirt. I decided to move a couple of portable benches upstairs on the enclosed back porch to see if I could get more done on the table saw base. At that point, all I had together was the base framing, which comprised of four 2" x 4" pieces half-lap joined, glued and screwed together. I decided on building the framing longitudinally because I wanted strength with some flex. The reason for this is the dungeon floor is irregular and not even close to being flat in some areas. I planned on building a heavy base for its size to allow levelers to flex the base as needed. Because the shorter 1" x 6" boards used for the apron are butt joined to the longer sides, I also glued them as well as used screws. The longer sides are only screwed together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second picture shows the arrangement of the casters and how the levelers come into play because of the aprons. I didn't need to use locking casters because once the saw is wheeled to where I want it, the levelers will be engaged. It wasn't my intention to limit the swivel movement of the rotating casters, but now that I have given it some thought it's probably for the best. The base doesn't need to parallel park on a dime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to build the framing for the top melamine board that the saw will be bolted to. Once done, I can measure what height I have created between the base and top constructions to determine what measurement is needed for the vertical corner framing. Target total height for the base is 34", perfect for my small 5' 6" frame.
> 
> With a weekend coming up, I should have the base completed by Sunday. The hold-up is not construction time. This project is being designed as I build it. Sometimes, it takes hours or days of research weighed against what I have for tools I can use and what I believe my skill level can make happen. Slow, frustrating at times, this is what I enjoy most about building things from scratch.


Thanks. You know, luv2learn, it just seems like everyone I follow on social media sites pop their genius into SketchUp and automagically a great set of plans and an awesome project pops out thereafter. It's heartening to know I am not the only one creating through trial and error off the cuff.


----------



## retired_guru

*Making Shavings*

Earlier this afternoon I started out with the notion I would get as much of the superstructure for the table saw done as time would allow for. The bottom of the base (seen earlier) is made entirely out of new lumber, which wasn't my intention from the onset. I was getting ready to make a trip out to our local Lowe's for more 2" x 4"s when I decided to use the reclaimed lumber in the dungeon.

After I found a couple of boards with straight edges long enough to cut to the sizes I needed, I measured them to length and cut with my new crosscut handsaw. Then it was time to see if they would plane using a bench plane that hadn't been sharpened beyond it factory edge. Dialing in the correct tension between the lever cap and blade assembly was a bit of a pain. Once I got it dialed in I was making shavings. And lots of them!










In this second picture, the two boards on the left have been planed on all four sides. The rough board on the far right is what they looked like before planing.










My planing was far from perfect. I don't have the skill at this time to plane squared edges by eye. Faces were pretty flat, though. Surprising, considering what little time I had put into it.

All in all, I accomplished both goals I started out with: 1) to see if I could make the boards smooth enough for construction, and; 2) to see if the factory ground edge on the plane could accomplish the task.

I spent a lot of time on cutting with a handsaw and planing just these two 26" boards. Was it worth it? Of yeah. Seriously, in the back of my mind I am wondering if I would rather revert to hand tool construction whenever possible. I have to say that my hand saw cut ends were pretty close to square. I now know addictive hand planing can be. And best of all was how all of this was making me feel. Just awesome.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Making Shavings*
> 
> Earlier this afternoon I started out with the notion I would get as much of the superstructure for the table saw done as time would allow for. The bottom of the base (seen earlier) is made entirely out of new lumber, which wasn't my intention from the onset. I was getting ready to make a trip out to our local Lowe's for more 2" x 4"s when I decided to use the reclaimed lumber in the dungeon.
> 
> After I found a couple of boards with straight edges long enough to cut to the sizes I needed, I measured them to length and cut with my new crosscut handsaw. Then it was time to see if they would plane using a bench plane that hadn't been sharpened beyond it factory edge. Dialing in the correct tension between the lever cap and blade assembly was a bit of a pain. Once I got it dialed in I was making shavings. And lots of them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this second picture, the two boards on the left have been planed on all four sides. The rough board on the far right is what they looked like before planing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My planing was far from perfect. I don't have the skill at this time to plane squared edges by eye. Faces were pretty flat, though. Surprising, considering what little time I had put into it.
> 
> All in all, I accomplished both goals I started out with: 1) to see if I could make the boards smooth enough for construction, and; 2) to see if the factory ground edge on the plane could accomplish the task.
> 
> I spent a lot of time on cutting with a handsaw and planing just these two 26" boards. Was it worth it? Of yeah. Seriously, in the back of my mind I am wondering if I would rather revert to hand tool construction whenever possible. I have to say that my hand saw cut ends were pretty close to square. I now know addictive hand planing can be. And best of all was how all of this was making me feel. Just awesome.


Learning by doing! It is a never ending, but gratifying, process. The boards look great, you gained valuable experience, and saved some money by re-purposing materials. It doesn't get any better than that!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Making Shavings*
> 
> Earlier this afternoon I started out with the notion I would get as much of the superstructure for the table saw done as time would allow for. The bottom of the base (seen earlier) is made entirely out of new lumber, which wasn't my intention from the onset. I was getting ready to make a trip out to our local Lowe's for more 2" x 4"s when I decided to use the reclaimed lumber in the dungeon.
> 
> After I found a couple of boards with straight edges long enough to cut to the sizes I needed, I measured them to length and cut with my new crosscut handsaw. Then it was time to see if they would plane using a bench plane that hadn't been sharpened beyond it factory edge. Dialing in the correct tension between the lever cap and blade assembly was a bit of a pain. Once I got it dialed in I was making shavings. And lots of them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this second picture, the two boards on the left have been planed on all four sides. The rough board on the far right is what they looked like before planing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My planing was far from perfect. I don't have the skill at this time to plane squared edges by eye. Faces were pretty flat, though. Surprising, considering what little time I had put into it.
> 
> All in all, I accomplished both goals I started out with: 1) to see if I could make the boards smooth enough for construction, and; 2) to see if the factory ground edge on the plane could accomplish the task.
> 
> I spent a lot of time on cutting with a handsaw and planing just these two 26" boards. Was it worth it? Of yeah. Seriously, in the back of my mind I am wondering if I would rather revert to hand tool construction whenever possible. I have to say that my hand saw cut ends were pretty close to square. I now know addictive hand planing can be. And best of all was how all of this was making me feel. Just awesome.





> Learning by doing! It is a never ending, but gratifying, process. The boards look great, you gained valuable experience, and saved some money by re-purposing materials. It doesn t get any better than that!!
> 
> - luv2learn


Amen. I learn best from doing, even when I grasp the concepts being learned.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Making Shavings*
> 
> Earlier this afternoon I started out with the notion I would get as much of the superstructure for the table saw done as time would allow for. The bottom of the base (seen earlier) is made entirely out of new lumber, which wasn't my intention from the onset. I was getting ready to make a trip out to our local Lowe's for more 2" x 4"s when I decided to use the reclaimed lumber in the dungeon.
> 
> After I found a couple of boards with straight edges long enough to cut to the sizes I needed, I measured them to length and cut with my new crosscut handsaw. Then it was time to see if they would plane using a bench plane that hadn't been sharpened beyond it factory edge. Dialing in the correct tension between the lever cap and blade assembly was a bit of a pain. Once I got it dialed in I was making shavings. And lots of them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this second picture, the two boards on the left have been planed on all four sides. The rough board on the far right is what they looked like before planing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My planing was far from perfect. I don't have the skill at this time to plane squared edges by eye. Faces were pretty flat, though. Surprising, considering what little time I had put into it.
> 
> All in all, I accomplished both goals I started out with: 1) to see if I could make the boards smooth enough for construction, and; 2) to see if the factory ground edge on the plane could accomplish the task.
> 
> I spent a lot of time on cutting with a handsaw and planing just these two 26" boards. Was it worth it? Of yeah. Seriously, in the back of my mind I am wondering if I would rather revert to hand tool construction whenever possible. I have to say that my hand saw cut ends were pretty close to square. I now know addictive hand planing can be. And best of all was how all of this was making me feel. Just awesome.


I tip my hat to you "slick".
Quite prone to a wee bit of re-cycling,
but you're taking it to new levels with your hand tools.
All the best, and more strength to your arms.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Making Shavings*
> 
> Earlier this afternoon I started out with the notion I would get as much of the superstructure for the table saw done as time would allow for. The bottom of the base (seen earlier) is made entirely out of new lumber, which wasn't my intention from the onset. I was getting ready to make a trip out to our local Lowe's for more 2" x 4"s when I decided to use the reclaimed lumber in the dungeon.
> 
> After I found a couple of boards with straight edges long enough to cut to the sizes I needed, I measured them to length and cut with my new crosscut handsaw. Then it was time to see if they would plane using a bench plane that hadn't been sharpened beyond it factory edge. Dialing in the correct tension between the lever cap and blade assembly was a bit of a pain. Once I got it dialed in I was making shavings. And lots of them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this second picture, the two boards on the left have been planed on all four sides. The rough board on the far right is what they looked like before planing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My planing was far from perfect. I don't have the skill at this time to plane squared edges by eye. Faces were pretty flat, though. Surprising, considering what little time I had put into it.
> 
> All in all, I accomplished both goals I started out with: 1) to see if I could make the boards smooth enough for construction, and; 2) to see if the factory ground edge on the plane could accomplish the task.
> 
> I spent a lot of time on cutting with a handsaw and planing just these two 26" boards. Was it worth it? Of yeah. Seriously, in the back of my mind I am wondering if I would rather revert to hand tool construction whenever possible. I have to say that my hand saw cut ends were pretty close to square. I now know addictive hand planing can be. And best of all was how all of this was making me feel. Just awesome.





> I tip my hat to you "slick".
> Quite prone to a wee bit of re-cycling,
> but you re taking it to new levels with your hand tools.
> All the best, and more strength to your arms.
> Cheers, Jinky (James).
> 
> - jinkyjock


Thanks, Jinky. Appreciated. At my age, the hand work is both mentally and physically therapeutic. I was thinking yesterday, after I finished the two boards, that I could see myself taking a piece of pallet wood and planing it until I got tired, with no concern toward any project, just for the Zen in it.


----------



## retired_guru

*Lowe's is Replacing the 9-3/4" x 2: Bench Plane*

A little while ago I decided to contact Lowe's Customer Care about the damaged spring underneath the quick-release lever cap. If you didn't see my previous blog entry about this, here is what it looked like when I first disassembled it shortly after purchase:










I explained what I found and asked that they either replace the plane with a new one or just ship out to me a new level cap. The representative said a senior manager from the store I bought the plane from would call me within 24 hours. The senior manager's call came in just minutes after my call to the service center ended. She said they have a new plane ready for exchange. In an hour or so I will be making the exchange and hopefully get around to taking it apart for cleaning and honing of the blade.

The more serious we get we in a special interest the more we tend to pick on the department stores that serve us generic or low-line equipment and materials for our needs. Kobalt and Lowe's are not on the same par as Festool and Rockler. They do serve a need and I am not above utilizing the product and their store when it works for me and my stingy wallet.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Lowe's is Replacing the 9-3/4" x 2: Bench Plane*
> 
> A little while ago I decided to contact Lowe's Customer Care about the damaged spring underneath the quick-release lever cap. If you didn't see my previous blog entry about this, here is what it looked like when I first disassembled it shortly after purchase:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I explained what I found and asked that they either replace the plane with a new one or just ship out to me a new level cap. The representative said a senior manager from the store I bought the plane from would call me within 24 hours. The senior manager's call came in just minutes after my call to the service center ended. She said they have a new plane ready for exchange. In an hour or so I will be making the exchange and hopefully get around to taking it apart for cleaning and honing of the blade.
> 
> The more serious we get we in a special interest the more we tend to pick on the department stores that serve us generic or low-line equipment and materials for our needs. Kobalt and Lowe's are not on the same par as Festool and Rockler. They do serve a need and I am not above utilizing the product and their store when it works for me and my stingy wallet.


Glad to hear Lowes stepped up to the plate and made things right.


----------



## retired_guru

*Workshop Stalled, Back On Target*

Over a week ago I contacted Lowe's for a replacement lever cap or swap for a new Kobalt No. 4 plane. They gave me the only new plane on the shelf, which I checked over at the service counter before leaving for home. Not only was the sheet metal spring for the lever in perfect shape and connected to the cap properly, the throat was better formed and the frog sat better to my eye. It just looked better overall.

Before cleaning it up and putting it to use, I spent some time with the Korean made ATK block plane's blade to see if I could sharpen it up using wet/dry sandpaper and the Italian marble pieces I bought a while back. Two observations were made. The first is what most of you would have known or guessed: the blade won't hold an edge. It is untempered, low-grade soft steel. I could get an edge that would work for about four passes before the actually pressure on the plane caused the wood to bend over the edge and polish the new bevel. I picked up a fine diamond stone today, so when the ordered honing blade guide comes in next week from Rockler, I plan on one more try to see if my freehand technique was the problem more so than the blade. Thereafter, it get thrown in the trash bin if it won't work.

The other reason for hitting Lowe's today was to get myself a 12" planer. I need to get some milling done faster and much more precise than I can ever accomplish by hand at this point. I had intended on getting the Porter-Cable 12" model that runs for $269.99. They no longer stock it, so I had to accept an upsell to a *DeWalt DW734* for another $139.00 more.










The wife said it was a go. The tightwad in me wanted to wait. The heart slapped me upside the head and looked at me like I was crazy to even think of backing out. I listened to my heart. It sits on the kitchen floor right now, waiting for me to find room for it in the mess I call the dungeon.

A jointer is definitely out of the picture for a while, maybe not until next year. I'll have to joint use my router table with an offset to the outfeed fence for now. But now I can plane the better reclaimed lumber I have been accumulating and get to work making the dungeon workshop's infrastructure.

One final note: I had to return the dehumidifier. It doubled our electric bill in one month. No way I can justify that kind of monthly expenditure to bring the humidity down. With winter coming, the humidity will be tolerable. Next spring I will have to consider what options will be available to control humidity in the shop.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Stalled, Back On Target*
> 
> Over a week ago I contacted Lowe's for a replacement lever cap or swap for a new Kobalt No. 4 plane. They gave me the only new plane on the shelf, which I checked over at the service counter before leaving for home. Not only was the sheet metal spring for the lever in perfect shape and connected to the cap properly, the throat was better formed and the frog sat better to my eye. It just looked better overall.
> 
> Before cleaning it up and putting it to use, I spent some time with the Korean made ATK block plane's blade to see if I could sharpen it up using wet/dry sandpaper and the Italian marble pieces I bought a while back. Two observations were made. The first is what most of you would have known or guessed: the blade won't hold an edge. It is untempered, low-grade soft steel. I could get an edge that would work for about four passes before the actually pressure on the plane caused the wood to bend over the edge and polish the new bevel. I picked up a fine diamond stone today, so when the ordered honing blade guide comes in next week from Rockler, I plan on one more try to see if my freehand technique was the problem more so than the blade. Thereafter, it get thrown in the trash bin if it won't work.
> 
> The other reason for hitting Lowe's today was to get myself a 12" planer. I need to get some milling done faster and much more precise than I can ever accomplish by hand at this point. I had intended on getting the Porter-Cable 12" model that runs for $269.99. They no longer stock it, so I had to accept an upsell to a *DeWalt DW734* for another $139.00 more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wife said it was a go. The tightwad in me wanted to wait. The heart slapped me upside the head and looked at me like I was crazy to even think of backing out. I listened to my heart. It sits on the kitchen floor right now, waiting for me to find room for it in the mess I call the dungeon.
> 
> A jointer is definitely out of the picture for a while, maybe not until next year. I'll have to joint use my router table with an offset to the outfeed fence for now. But now I can plane the better reclaimed lumber I have been accumulating and get to work making the dungeon workshop's infrastructure.
> 
> One final note: I had to return the dehumidifier. It doubled our electric bill in one month. No way I can justify that kind of monthly expenditure to bring the humidity down. With winter coming, the humidity will be tolerable. Next spring I will have to consider what options will be available to control humidity in the shop.


Try Crigslist I don't know how far Ithica, NY is from you but I found this 6" Rockwell jointer for less than $100. I found a similar one for myself. I had to clean it up and do some fine tuning but it works great.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Stalled, Back On Target*
> 
> Over a week ago I contacted Lowe's for a replacement lever cap or swap for a new Kobalt No. 4 plane. They gave me the only new plane on the shelf, which I checked over at the service counter before leaving for home. Not only was the sheet metal spring for the lever in perfect shape and connected to the cap properly, the throat was better formed and the frog sat better to my eye. It just looked better overall.
> 
> Before cleaning it up and putting it to use, I spent some time with the Korean made ATK block plane's blade to see if I could sharpen it up using wet/dry sandpaper and the Italian marble pieces I bought a while back. Two observations were made. The first is what most of you would have known or guessed: the blade won't hold an edge. It is untempered, low-grade soft steel. I could get an edge that would work for about four passes before the actually pressure on the plane caused the wood to bend over the edge and polish the new bevel. I picked up a fine diamond stone today, so when the ordered honing blade guide comes in next week from Rockler, I plan on one more try to see if my freehand technique was the problem more so than the blade. Thereafter, it get thrown in the trash bin if it won't work.
> 
> The other reason for hitting Lowe's today was to get myself a 12" planer. I need to get some milling done faster and much more precise than I can ever accomplish by hand at this point. I had intended on getting the Porter-Cable 12" model that runs for $269.99. They no longer stock it, so I had to accept an upsell to a *DeWalt DW734* for another $139.00 more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wife said it was a go. The tightwad in me wanted to wait. The heart slapped me upside the head and looked at me like I was crazy to even think of backing out. I listened to my heart. It sits on the kitchen floor right now, waiting for me to find room for it in the mess I call the dungeon.
> 
> A jointer is definitely out of the picture for a while, maybe not until next year. I'll have to joint use my router table with an offset to the outfeed fence for now. But now I can plane the better reclaimed lumber I have been accumulating and get to work making the dungeon workshop's infrastructure.
> 
> One final note: I had to return the dehumidifier. It doubled our electric bill in one month. No way I can justify that kind of monthly expenditure to bring the humidity down. With winter coming, the humidity will be tolerable. Next spring I will have to consider what options will be available to control humidity in the shop.





> Try Crigslist I don t know how far Ithica, NY is from you but I found this 6" Rockwell jointer for less than $100. I found a similar one for myself. I had to clean it up and do some fine tuning but it works great.
> 
> - luv2learn


Ithaca is over an hour away to the West. Basically, everywhere worth traveling to is an hour or more away.

Thanks, but I'm going to sit on what I have until the workshop is running and everything is in its place. If the router table fails to work for me it will only be because the 1/4" shank plunge router can't handle the load. I will just have to take very small passes.


----------



## RPhillips

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Stalled, Back On Target*
> 
> Over a week ago I contacted Lowe's for a replacement lever cap or swap for a new Kobalt No. 4 plane. They gave me the only new plane on the shelf, which I checked over at the service counter before leaving for home. Not only was the sheet metal spring for the lever in perfect shape and connected to the cap properly, the throat was better formed and the frog sat better to my eye. It just looked better overall.
> 
> Before cleaning it up and putting it to use, I spent some time with the Korean made ATK block plane's blade to see if I could sharpen it up using wet/dry sandpaper and the Italian marble pieces I bought a while back. Two observations were made. The first is what most of you would have known or guessed: the blade won't hold an edge. It is untempered, low-grade soft steel. I could get an edge that would work for about four passes before the actually pressure on the plane caused the wood to bend over the edge and polish the new bevel. I picked up a fine diamond stone today, so when the ordered honing blade guide comes in next week from Rockler, I plan on one more try to see if my freehand technique was the problem more so than the blade. Thereafter, it get thrown in the trash bin if it won't work.
> 
> The other reason for hitting Lowe's today was to get myself a 12" planer. I need to get some milling done faster and much more precise than I can ever accomplish by hand at this point. I had intended on getting the Porter-Cable 12" model that runs for $269.99. They no longer stock it, so I had to accept an upsell to a *DeWalt DW734* for another $139.00 more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wife said it was a go. The tightwad in me wanted to wait. The heart slapped me upside the head and looked at me like I was crazy to even think of backing out. I listened to my heart. It sits on the kitchen floor right now, waiting for me to find room for it in the mess I call the dungeon.
> 
> A jointer is definitely out of the picture for a while, maybe not until next year. I'll have to joint use my router table with an offset to the outfeed fence for now. But now I can plane the better reclaimed lumber I have been accumulating and get to work making the dungeon workshop's infrastructure.
> 
> One final note: I had to return the dehumidifier. It doubled our electric bill in one month. No way I can justify that kind of monthly expenditure to bring the humidity down. With winter coming, the humidity will be tolerable. Next spring I will have to consider what options will be available to control humidity in the shop.


Curious… Why not pick up a cheap vintage hand plane from a flea market or on the web (or even here). My thinking is that even though the Lowes plane seems to be a bargain, you still had to buy need a decent iron. Picking up an old Stanley No. 4/5 would net you better results and would be easy on the wallet, not mention the craftsmanship would be much better to boot.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Stalled, Back On Target*
> 
> Over a week ago I contacted Lowe's for a replacement lever cap or swap for a new Kobalt No. 4 plane. They gave me the only new plane on the shelf, which I checked over at the service counter before leaving for home. Not only was the sheet metal spring for the lever in perfect shape and connected to the cap properly, the throat was better formed and the frog sat better to my eye. It just looked better overall.
> 
> Before cleaning it up and putting it to use, I spent some time with the Korean made ATK block plane's blade to see if I could sharpen it up using wet/dry sandpaper and the Italian marble pieces I bought a while back. Two observations were made. The first is what most of you would have known or guessed: the blade won't hold an edge. It is untempered, low-grade soft steel. I could get an edge that would work for about four passes before the actually pressure on the plane caused the wood to bend over the edge and polish the new bevel. I picked up a fine diamond stone today, so when the ordered honing blade guide comes in next week from Rockler, I plan on one more try to see if my freehand technique was the problem more so than the blade. Thereafter, it get thrown in the trash bin if it won't work.
> 
> The other reason for hitting Lowe's today was to get myself a 12" planer. I need to get some milling done faster and much more precise than I can ever accomplish by hand at this point. I had intended on getting the Porter-Cable 12" model that runs for $269.99. They no longer stock it, so I had to accept an upsell to a *DeWalt DW734* for another $139.00 more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wife said it was a go. The tightwad in me wanted to wait. The heart slapped me upside the head and looked at me like I was crazy to even think of backing out. I listened to my heart. It sits on the kitchen floor right now, waiting for me to find room for it in the mess I call the dungeon.
> 
> A jointer is definitely out of the picture for a while, maybe not until next year. I'll have to joint use my router table with an offset to the outfeed fence for now. But now I can plane the better reclaimed lumber I have been accumulating and get to work making the dungeon workshop's infrastructure.
> 
> One final note: I had to return the dehumidifier. It doubled our electric bill in one month. No way I can justify that kind of monthly expenditure to bring the humidity down. With winter coming, the humidity will be tolerable. Next spring I will have to consider what options will be available to control humidity in the shop.





> Curious… Why not pick up a cheap vintage hand plane from a flea market or on the web (or even here). My thinking is that even though the Lowes plane seems to be a bargain, you still had to buy need a decent iron. Picking up an old Stanley No. 4/5 would net you better results and would be easy on the wallet, not mention the craftsmanship would be much better to boot.
> 
> - RPhillips


Lots of reasons that apply to the moment and will be different down the road. For now, I'm happy with my choices.


----------



## retired_guru

*Delta 36-510 Type II Motorized Bench Saw Refurb*

So last night I headed out to a rural homestead about 40 minutes away to look at a table saw selling for $25.00. It looked well used in the pictures supplied on Craigslist. My hope was that it wasn't more beat than it looked.

The Delta 36-510 Motorized Bench Saw ran fine, but it had been stored in a garage for a couple of years and it looked like it was pistol whipped into getting work done. Without question it was going to need a breakdown, cleaning and lubing before I could use it.

The only part it was missing, the blade lowering/raising wheel, I could do without. A wooden replacement is an easy fix. I suppose you could count in the bolt that mounts the blade guard/riving knife/anti-kickback pawls assembly. The flimsy device looks to be useless. Since it needs to be disassembled and the surface rust removed, I am putting it aside for a later date.










I spent most of the day disassembling and cleaning the dirty saw. The top was sanded wet with 600 grit sandpaper. Bearing surfaces and moving threaded parts were lubricated with paste wax. Flat washers and/or locking washers were added or replaced originals as felt it was as needed.

I replaced the sawdust-caked blade with one of my hardly used Skil saw spares.



















Hours later, I fired it up without the blade. The motor turns over instantly without a noticeably large amperage load. Afterward I moved the saw to the upstairs back porch, I waxed the top and fence rails.

Here is a picture of the finished refurb. I forgot to take a starting picture. I should have. A big difference between then and now.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Delta 36-510 Type II Motorized Bench Saw Refurb*
> 
> So last night I headed out to a rural homestead about 40 minutes away to look at a table saw selling for $25.00. It looked well used in the pictures supplied on Craigslist. My hope was that it wasn't more beat than it looked.
> 
> The Delta 36-510 Motorized Bench Saw ran fine, but it had been stored in a garage for a couple of years and it looked like it was pistol whipped into getting work done. Without question it was going to need a breakdown, cleaning and lubing before I could use it.
> 
> The only part it was missing, the blade lowering/raising wheel, I could do without. A wooden replacement is an easy fix. I suppose you could count in the bolt that mounts the blade guard/riving knife/anti-kickback pawls assembly. The flimsy device looks to be useless. Since it needs to be disassembled and the surface rust removed, I am putting it aside for a later date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent most of the day disassembling and cleaning the dirty saw. The top was sanded wet with 600 grit sandpaper. Bearing surfaces and moving threaded parts were lubricated with paste wax. Flat washers and/or locking washers were added or replaced originals as felt it was as needed.
> 
> I replaced the sawdust-caked blade with one of my hardly used Skil saw spares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hours later, I fired it up without the blade. The motor turns over instantly without a noticeably large amperage load. Afterward I moved the saw to the upstairs back porch, I waxed the top and fence rails.
> 
> Here is a picture of the finished refurb. I forgot to take a starting picture. I should have. A big difference between then and now.


I would say, you got a deal for $25.00. Nice job of cleaning it up.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Delta 36-510 Type II Motorized Bench Saw Refurb*
> 
> So last night I headed out to a rural homestead about 40 minutes away to look at a table saw selling for $25.00. It looked well used in the pictures supplied on Craigslist. My hope was that it wasn't more beat than it looked.
> 
> The Delta 36-510 Motorized Bench Saw ran fine, but it had been stored in a garage for a couple of years and it looked like it was pistol whipped into getting work done. Without question it was going to need a breakdown, cleaning and lubing before I could use it.
> 
> The only part it was missing, the blade lowering/raising wheel, I could do without. A wooden replacement is an easy fix. I suppose you could count in the bolt that mounts the blade guard/riving knife/anti-kickback pawls assembly. The flimsy device looks to be useless. Since it needs to be disassembled and the surface rust removed, I am putting it aside for a later date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent most of the day disassembling and cleaning the dirty saw. The top was sanded wet with 600 grit sandpaper. Bearing surfaces and moving threaded parts were lubricated with paste wax. Flat washers and/or locking washers were added or replaced originals as felt it was as needed.
> 
> I replaced the sawdust-caked blade with one of my hardly used Skil saw spares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hours later, I fired it up without the blade. The motor turns over instantly without a noticeably large amperage load. Afterward I moved the saw to the upstairs back porch, I waxed the top and fence rails.
> 
> Here is a picture of the finished refurb. I forgot to take a starting picture. I should have. A big difference between then and now.





> I would say, you got a deal for $25.00.


I think so. The true test will come when I go to use it, but I think this will either replace the Skilsaw or be used for outdoor work.



> Nice job of cleaning it up.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks!


----------



## Norme

retired_guru said:


> *Delta 36-510 Type II Motorized Bench Saw Refurb*
> 
> So last night I headed out to a rural homestead about 40 minutes away to look at a table saw selling for $25.00. It looked well used in the pictures supplied on Craigslist. My hope was that it wasn't more beat than it looked.
> 
> The Delta 36-510 Motorized Bench Saw ran fine, but it had been stored in a garage for a couple of years and it looked like it was pistol whipped into getting work done. Without question it was going to need a breakdown, cleaning and lubing before I could use it.
> 
> The only part it was missing, the blade lowering/raising wheel, I could do without. A wooden replacement is an easy fix. I suppose you could count in the bolt that mounts the blade guard/riving knife/anti-kickback pawls assembly. The flimsy device looks to be useless. Since it needs to be disassembled and the surface rust removed, I am putting it aside for a later date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent most of the day disassembling and cleaning the dirty saw. The top was sanded wet with 600 grit sandpaper. Bearing surfaces and moving threaded parts were lubricated with paste wax. Flat washers and/or locking washers were added or replaced originals as felt it was as needed.
> 
> I replaced the sawdust-caked blade with one of my hardly used Skil saw spares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hours later, I fired it up without the blade. The motor turns over instantly without a noticeably large amperage load. Afterward I moved the saw to the upstairs back porch, I waxed the top and fence rails.
> 
> Here is a picture of the finished refurb. I forgot to take a starting picture. I should have. A big difference between then and now.


I have one of these - Delta 10" #36-510. I hate it - distance from table front to saw blade is minimal. The mitre slot channels are no-standard. I will be getting rid of it soon.


----------



## Norme

retired_guru said:


> *Delta 36-510 Type II Motorized Bench Saw Refurb*
> 
> So last night I headed out to a rural homestead about 40 minutes away to look at a table saw selling for $25.00. It looked well used in the pictures supplied on Craigslist. My hope was that it wasn't more beat than it looked.
> 
> The Delta 36-510 Motorized Bench Saw ran fine, but it had been stored in a garage for a couple of years and it looked like it was pistol whipped into getting work done. Without question it was going to need a breakdown, cleaning and lubing before I could use it.
> 
> The only part it was missing, the blade lowering/raising wheel, I could do without. A wooden replacement is an easy fix. I suppose you could count in the bolt that mounts the blade guard/riving knife/anti-kickback pawls assembly. The flimsy device looks to be useless. Since it needs to be disassembled and the surface rust removed, I am putting it aside for a later date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent most of the day disassembling and cleaning the dirty saw. The top was sanded wet with 600 grit sandpaper. Bearing surfaces and moving threaded parts were lubricated with paste wax. Flat washers and/or locking washers were added or replaced originals as felt it was as needed.
> 
> I replaced the sawdust-caked blade with one of my hardly used Skil saw spares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hours later, I fired it up without the blade. The motor turns over instantly without a noticeably large amperage load. Afterward I moved the saw to the upstairs back porch, I waxed the top and fence rails.
> 
> Here is a picture of the finished refurb. I forgot to take a starting picture. I should have. A big difference between then and now.


I have one of these as well. I was not happy with the short distance from front edge to blade throat or the non-standard miter slots as well. In addition, I was not happy with the throat plate design - way too thin for making my own zero clearance plates. I had intended to sell it. In the meantime, I put on a sanding disk to use it for that purpose. THEN - yesterday, my 1953 Craftsman Vintage 8" Contractor Saw's start capacitor "bit the dust"! Now the Delta 10" is my primary table saw. It will suffice until I decide on which SawStop I can afford. For now, I am considering building a tables saw sled to get around the issues. Making customized rails would be easy, provide zero clearance for blades and maybe get around the front distance to blade issue while providing a decent alternative to the fence.

In the meantime, does anybody have an idea about finding a replacement for the Capacitor Flat Pack for the Craftsman 8" Table Saw - Markings on the Capacitor are 5376823, I224 - 155 MFD, 125V - 60cycle (obviously AC), D.1.51


----------



## retired_guru

*Down-n-Dirty Router Table Base Project*

In the process of converting the dungeon into a less-than-scary, useful workshop, I continue to come up with necessities that divert my attention while solving needs. For instance, since I can't afford right now (and may not have the room for) a 6" jointer, the next best thing is to joint on a router table. Yes, I can do it on a table saw. The Skilsaw's accuracy is still debatable. More important, I can't use it until I can make room for it in the dungeon ,and I finish making the base for it. Jointing by hand is beyond my skillset and tools owned at the present. The router wins the bid.

The Blue Hawk router table is an inexpensive model, flimsy at the feet if not mounted to something sturdy. I didn't have a stand or bench low enough to give me a good working height, so I decided to refurbish a cheap chipboard office utility stand for this purpose.










All the additional wood used in this project came from destructed pallets. The legs are the two pieces that I did some practice hand planing on a few weeks ago. The rest were power sanded with 40 and 80 grit to remove the majority of the roughness. This was not a furniture project. It doesn't have to look pretty in the dungeon.



















The bolts that make up the feet came from a Real Deal store in our community, where -most- everything is a buck. I think a dozen of these bolts come in a dollar package. The nuts used were in my parts bins.










The sheet rock screws I have had for some time and the wood screws used on the melamine top were also part of a package for a buck. The melamine was left over from shelving I had custom made for me at a professional office I had 20 years ago. I guess that makes the total cash outlay for this project $2.00 USD.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Down-n-Dirty Router Table Base Project*
> 
> In the process of converting the dungeon into a less-than-scary, useful workshop, I continue to come up with necessities that divert my attention while solving needs. For instance, since I can't afford right now (and may not have the room for) a 6" jointer, the next best thing is to joint on a router table. Yes, I can do it on a table saw. The Skilsaw's accuracy is still debatable. More important, I can't use it until I can make room for it in the dungeon ,and I finish making the base for it. Jointing by hand is beyond my skillset and tools owned at the present. The router wins the bid.
> 
> The Blue Hawk router table is an inexpensive model, flimsy at the feet if not mounted to something sturdy. I didn't have a stand or bench low enough to give me a good working height, so I decided to refurbish a cheap chipboard office utility stand for this purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the additional wood used in this project came from destructed pallets. The legs are the two pieces that I did some practice hand planing on a few weeks ago. The rest were power sanded with 40 and 80 grit to remove the majority of the roughness. This was not a furniture project. It doesn't have to look pretty in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts that make up the feet came from a Real Deal store in our community, where -most- everything is a buck. I think a dozen of these bolts come in a dollar package. The nuts used were in my parts bins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet rock screws I have had for some time and the wood screws used on the melamine top were also part of a package for a buck. The melamine was left over from shelving I had custom made for me at a professional office I had 20 years ago. I guess that makes the total cash outlay for this project $2.00 USD.


The original stand was not weighed before I started this project, but my guess would be it was under 10 pounds. Finished weight of this base is 49 pounds. No fat. All hardwood muscle.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Down-n-Dirty Router Table Base Project*
> 
> In the process of converting the dungeon into a less-than-scary, useful workshop, I continue to come up with necessities that divert my attention while solving needs. For instance, since I can't afford right now (and may not have the room for) a 6" jointer, the next best thing is to joint on a router table. Yes, I can do it on a table saw. The Skilsaw's accuracy is still debatable. More important, I can't use it until I can make room for it in the dungeon ,and I finish making the base for it. Jointing by hand is beyond my skillset and tools owned at the present. The router wins the bid.
> 
> The Blue Hawk router table is an inexpensive model, flimsy at the feet if not mounted to something sturdy. I didn't have a stand or bench low enough to give me a good working height, so I decided to refurbish a cheap chipboard office utility stand for this purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the additional wood used in this project came from destructed pallets. The legs are the two pieces that I did some practice hand planing on a few weeks ago. The rest were power sanded with 40 and 80 grit to remove the majority of the roughness. This was not a furniture project. It doesn't have to look pretty in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts that make up the feet came from a Real Deal store in our community, where -most- everything is a buck. I think a dozen of these bolts come in a dollar package. The nuts used were in my parts bins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet rock screws I have had for some time and the wood screws used on the melamine top were also part of a package for a buck. The melamine was left over from shelving I had custom made for me at a professional office I had 20 years ago. I guess that makes the total cash outlay for this project $2.00 USD.


Budget constraints certainly bring forth creativity.


----------



## realcowtown_eric

retired_guru said:


> *Down-n-Dirty Router Table Base Project*
> 
> In the process of converting the dungeon into a less-than-scary, useful workshop, I continue to come up with necessities that divert my attention while solving needs. For instance, since I can't afford right now (and may not have the room for) a 6" jointer, the next best thing is to joint on a router table. Yes, I can do it on a table saw. The Skilsaw's accuracy is still debatable. More important, I can't use it until I can make room for it in the dungeon ,and I finish making the base for it. Jointing by hand is beyond my skillset and tools owned at the present. The router wins the bid.
> 
> The Blue Hawk router table is an inexpensive model, flimsy at the feet if not mounted to something sturdy. I didn't have a stand or bench low enough to give me a good working height, so I decided to refurbish a cheap chipboard office utility stand for this purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the additional wood used in this project came from destructed pallets. The legs are the two pieces that I did some practice hand planing on a few weeks ago. The rest were power sanded with 40 and 80 grit to remove the majority of the roughness. This was not a furniture project. It doesn't have to look pretty in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts that make up the feet came from a Real Deal store in our community, where -most- everything is a buck. I think a dozen of these bolts come in a dollar package. The nuts used were in my parts bins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet rock screws I have had for some time and the wood screws used on the melamine top were also part of a package for a buck. The melamine was left over from shelving I had custom made for me at a professional office I had 20 years ago. I guess that makes the total cash outlay for this project $2.00 USD.


necessity us the mother of invention.

Been there done that.

Eric in Calgary


----------



## retired_guru

*Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*

Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.










I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.










Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.


----------



## oldnovice

retired_guru said:


> *Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*
> 
> Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.


This looks familiar, a base that will support multiple tools.
All you need to add is a standing storage cabinet to hold the tools not in use.

However, I don't rember where I have seen this.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*
> 
> Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.





> This looks familiar, a base that will support multiple tools.
> All you need to add is a standing storage cabinet to hold the tools not in use.
> 
> However, I don t rember where I have seen this.
> 
> - oldnovice


I spend a lot of time watching woodworking YT videos and scouring the Web for plans. Some of those ideas have been incorporated into this construction. No specific plan has been used. I built around what I started with.

As the base is now, it weights about 50 lbs. A dust extraction box underneath the top will add weight, so I think this will now need to have retractable casters along side the base's horizontal legs to minimize having to lift it. I have some ideas on how to do this without the expense of specific hardware designed for the purpose. Standing storage units along side the base or hanging attachments, I'm sure something will some to mind once I know what space it will occupy in the dungeon.

All in all, I am quite pleased with where this table/base has ended up. The recycling and reclaiming of materials to accomplish my goals compliments the way I think.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*
> 
> Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.


Wow, your stand is now serving double duty. It will be interesting to see what other uses you come up with for the stand.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*
> 
> Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.





> Wow, your stand is now serving double duty. It will be interesting to see what other uses you come up with for the stand.
> 
> - luv2learn


I did some measuring last night to see if the new DeWalt DW734 Thickness Planer would fit. It will, dimension-wise, but I would have to remove the bolts for the router table and table saw, which I wouldn't have to do for the other two. I think I will concentrate on these two for this base and then back to finishing up the base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*
> 
> Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.


As far as where to place the dust collection port, I vote for cutting a hole in the melamine top. Let gravity be your friend. Would replacing the bolts for your router table and table saw with threaded inserts and then running the bolts from the top help to accommodate your thickness planer?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Elevation Control Knob and New Table Fit*
> 
> Shortly after I finished the router table base it occurred to me that this could be a multi-purpose base. I knew the melamine top wasn't deep enough to accommodate the Skilsaw 3410-02 table saw, but the newly acquired Delta 35-510 had a smaller body that fit nicely with room to spare all around. The bolts you see sticking up from the melamine are for the router table. I was glad to see that they wouldn't interfere with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a pack rat, holding onto anything that has the remotest possibility of being useful in the future. I found in my parts bin a hardwood knob that I had long ago epoxied thin cork strips to for a grip. I drilled a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep into the flat end to accommodate the shaft, then routed out a slot across the hole for the sheer pin using my old Dremel Drill Press. Because of the cork grip it is easy to turn, but it does take quite a few turns to raise and lower the blade. For now this works well and the bent shaft may not allow for a replacement OEM wheel to work, anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will cut out a square hole in the melamine and chipboard top for sawdust extraction. I have some plywood that will work well in making a partial box underneath that will be attached to the chipboard back. Before I do that I will cut an extraction port out of the back that I can use with my shop vac. I'll post pictures of this final adjustment when completed.





> As far as where to place the dust collection port, I vote for cutting a hole in the melamine top. Let gravity be your friend. Would replacing the bolts for your router table and table saw with threaded inserts and then running the bolts from the top help to accommodate your thickness planer?
> 
> - luv2learn


I'm reluctant to cut a hole in the top. The size of it would undermine some of the torsional strength and weight the base has now. It would also limit what I can use the table for, unless I consider taking the cut out piece of melamine and make it into a removable lid that can support weight.

Regarding the bolt pattern: I'm pretty sure the bolts from below will be replaced with recessed nuts in the top of melamine. This worked well for the table saw.


----------



## retired_guru

*Over-Engineering and Laughing at Oneself*

Sometimes, I have to laugh at myself.

For several days I have been contemplating the best way to add mobility to the Router Table Base I created, which now also acts as a Table Saw Base for the Delta 36-510. I've watched numerous YouTube videos showing all sorts of simple to ingeniously complex Lazy-Boy lever systems. For this project, 'better' translates to 'cheap', 'using materials I already have', and 'taking the least amount of time to create'. After about an hour of pretend-fitting casters to pieces of wood for depth and hinging possibilities, I finally noticed the four holes pre-drilled into the bottom of the original sides of the utility table. I checked my large Zip-lock bag of casters to see if I still had those that came with the table. Yes, I did. And as you can see in the photos they lift the table a good inch or so above the present settings of the levelers, which leaves ample room for both mobility and height leveling. Jeeze-Louise, I can't believe I didn't see this before!

So go ahead and laugh. I sure am right now, and I wouldn't mind the company.


----------



## Mip

retired_guru said:


> *Over-Engineering and Laughing at Oneself*
> 
> Sometimes, I have to laugh at myself.
> 
> For several days I have been contemplating the best way to add mobility to the Router Table Base I created, which now also acts as a Table Saw Base for the Delta 36-510. I've watched numerous YouTube videos showing all sorts of simple to ingeniously complex Lazy-Boy lever systems. For this project, 'better' translates to 'cheap', 'using materials I already have', and 'taking the least amount of time to create'. After about an hour of pretend-fitting casters to pieces of wood for depth and hinging possibilities, I finally noticed the four holes pre-drilled into the bottom of the original sides of the utility table. I checked my large Zip-lock bag of casters to see if I still had those that came with the table. Yes, I did. And as you can see in the photos they lift the table a good inch or so above the present settings of the levelers, which leaves ample room for both mobility and height leveling. Jeeze-Louise, I can't believe I didn't see this before!
> 
> So go ahead and laugh. I sure am right now, and I wouldn't mind the company.


You think this is bad? You wouldn't believe all of the brain farts I've had over the years with some of the projects I was working on. This is nothing.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Over-Engineering and Laughing at Oneself*
> 
> Sometimes, I have to laugh at myself.
> 
> For several days I have been contemplating the best way to add mobility to the Router Table Base I created, which now also acts as a Table Saw Base for the Delta 36-510. I've watched numerous YouTube videos showing all sorts of simple to ingeniously complex Lazy-Boy lever systems. For this project, 'better' translates to 'cheap', 'using materials I already have', and 'taking the least amount of time to create'. After about an hour of pretend-fitting casters to pieces of wood for depth and hinging possibilities, I finally noticed the four holes pre-drilled into the bottom of the original sides of the utility table. I checked my large Zip-lock bag of casters to see if I still had those that came with the table. Yes, I did. And as you can see in the photos they lift the table a good inch or so above the present settings of the levelers, which leaves ample room for both mobility and height leveling. Jeeze-Louise, I can't believe I didn't see this before!
> 
> So go ahead and laugh. I sure am right now, and I wouldn't mind the company.





> You think this is bad? You wouldn t believe all of the brain farts I ve had over the years with some of the projects I was working on. This is nothing.
> 
> - Mip


I promise not to challenge you to a dual of brain farts, but know that this is certainly not one of my worst. Not even close. I have some so bad I can't laugh at them and not way you will ever find out out about them! 

I appreciate the support. I know we all do it. At least this time: no harm, no foul.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Over-Engineering and Laughing at Oneself*
> 
> Sometimes, I have to laugh at myself.
> 
> For several days I have been contemplating the best way to add mobility to the Router Table Base I created, which now also acts as a Table Saw Base for the Delta 36-510. I've watched numerous YouTube videos showing all sorts of simple to ingeniously complex Lazy-Boy lever systems. For this project, 'better' translates to 'cheap', 'using materials I already have', and 'taking the least amount of time to create'. After about an hour of pretend-fitting casters to pieces of wood for depth and hinging possibilities, I finally noticed the four holes pre-drilled into the bottom of the original sides of the utility table. I checked my large Zip-lock bag of casters to see if I still had those that came with the table. Yes, I did. And as you can see in the photos they lift the table a good inch or so above the present settings of the levelers, which leaves ample room for both mobility and height leveling. Jeeze-Louise, I can't believe I didn't see this before!
> 
> So go ahead and laugh. I sure am right now, and I wouldn't mind the company.


A 'dual of brain farts'....hmmm….sounds intriguing….I'm in.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Over-Engineering and Laughing at Oneself*
> 
> Sometimes, I have to laugh at myself.
> 
> For several days I have been contemplating the best way to add mobility to the Router Table Base I created, which now also acts as a Table Saw Base for the Delta 36-510. I've watched numerous YouTube videos showing all sorts of simple to ingeniously complex Lazy-Boy lever systems. For this project, 'better' translates to 'cheap', 'using materials I already have', and 'taking the least amount of time to create'. After about an hour of pretend-fitting casters to pieces of wood for depth and hinging possibilities, I finally noticed the four holes pre-drilled into the bottom of the original sides of the utility table. I checked my large Zip-lock bag of casters to see if I still had those that came with the table. Yes, I did. And as you can see in the photos they lift the table a good inch or so above the present settings of the levelers, which leaves ample room for both mobility and height leveling. Jeeze-Louise, I can't believe I didn't see this before!
> 
> So go ahead and laugh. I sure am right now, and I wouldn't mind the company.





> A dual of brain farts ….hmmm….sounds intriguing….I m in.
> 
> - handsawgeek


You're on. Get your gas mask and oxygen tank.


----------



## retired_guru

*Zero Clearance Insert, Hard Wood Fence Rail, Chisel Sharpening*

My day started at 4:30 am, way too early for getting to bed shortly before midnight. I blame this flu I can't get rid of and a lot of heavy dreaming. And yet, I had one of the most productive days in the past week. Most of the afternoon was spent sharpening chisels, mounting a wood fence rail and creating a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. Here are some pics of what I accomplished.

The Chisels
The chisel sharpening took up a good portion of the day. It was my first chance to try out the Rockler honing guide and diamond honing stone I bought from Lowe's. The stone only had one side, fine, so I ended up using various grades of sandpaper to deal with the rough shape of some of my chisels. What was surprising was the inconsistent results between the chisels I worked on.










Two were plastic handled, very inexpensive chisels, one half-inch, the other with a 1-inch blade. Both of these had damaged ends, so a metal file was used to file the end flat. The wider chisel came out pretty sharp. The half-inch chisel appeared to be sharp, but no matter what I did I couldn't get it as sharp as its bigger brother. Here is the half-inch:










The 1/2" was the experimental first, the least valuable and therefore expendable if I really messed it up. When I decided I couldn't get any better edge, I took a piece of milled pallet wood and did some practicing on it. Here is a close-up of what I accomplished with the chisel. The dimension of the cutout is approximately one inch square. Bear in mind I haven't done free-hand chisel work like this in quite a few years. A rubber mallet was used only to cut the ledges from above:










The Bench Saw
I decided to make a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Type 2 10" Bench Saw using a 1/2" thick milled piece of pallet wood. Because the metal insert is very thin and sits upon ledges close to the surface of the cast top, the contact points were going to have to be routed out of the 1/2" thick blank. I used a 1/4" shank trim router: freehand except for the wide edge on the motor side.

The messy part was finding a way to get enough material removed where the highest point of the blade touched the insert so it would sit flush with the table top before I turned on the saw. I didn't have a smaller blade that would fit, so I hand routed from the underside, progressively going deeper as I came to the apex of contact. Then I ran a narrow board front to back over the insert and clamped it to the saw top. I powered up and ran the blade through both the insert and clamped piece.










The insert is usable, but not finished. The screws used to mount the steel insert won't work with the new wood insert. Instead, they are screwed into the top and will be used as height adjustment for the insert after I fasten magnetic strips to the underside of the insert where the screws are:










There is a little wiggle room along the length of the insert, so I think once the magnetic strips are attached, if it still moves around I will paint the edges and underside to make up the difference.

The last accomplishment was the fastening of a wood rail to the fence. Again, using a cut to length 1/2" piece of milled pallet wood, I used sheet rock screws to attach it to the metal fence. The reason for this was the fence was not straight and being that it's rectangular tubing there isn't any way to straighten it out. I applied paste wax to the top of the insert and the rail facing and bottom edges.

Tomorrow, I mark and cut out a hole in the saw body to accept the 2-1/2" dust extraction port, then attach the port using a gasket to get a tight seal. Just in time was today's delivery of the 10' hose. So I guess tomorrow I will be assembling and using my Dust Deputy setup.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Zero Clearance Insert, Hard Wood Fence Rail, Chisel Sharpening*
> 
> My day started at 4:30 am, way too early for getting to bed shortly before midnight. I blame this flu I can't get rid of and a lot of heavy dreaming. And yet, I had one of the most productive days in the past week. Most of the afternoon was spent sharpening chisels, mounting a wood fence rail and creating a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. Here are some pics of what I accomplished.
> 
> The Chisels
> The chisel sharpening took up a good portion of the day. It was my first chance to try out the Rockler honing guide and diamond honing stone I bought from Lowe's. The stone only had one side, fine, so I ended up using various grades of sandpaper to deal with the rough shape of some of my chisels. What was surprising was the inconsistent results between the chisels I worked on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two were plastic handled, very inexpensive chisels, one half-inch, the other with a 1-inch blade. Both of these had damaged ends, so a metal file was used to file the end flat. The wider chisel came out pretty sharp. The half-inch chisel appeared to be sharp, but no matter what I did I couldn't get it as sharp as its bigger brother. Here is the half-inch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/2" was the experimental first, the least valuable and therefore expendable if I really messed it up. When I decided I couldn't get any better edge, I took a piece of milled pallet wood and did some practicing on it. Here is a close-up of what I accomplished with the chisel. The dimension of the cutout is approximately one inch square. Bear in mind I haven't done free-hand chisel work like this in quite a few years. A rubber mallet was used only to cut the ledges from above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Bench Saw
> I decided to make a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Type 2 10" Bench Saw using a 1/2" thick milled piece of pallet wood. Because the metal insert is very thin and sits upon ledges close to the surface of the cast top, the contact points were going to have to be routed out of the 1/2" thick blank. I used a 1/4" shank trim router: freehand except for the wide edge on the motor side.
> 
> The messy part was finding a way to get enough material removed where the highest point of the blade touched the insert so it would sit flush with the table top before I turned on the saw. I didn't have a smaller blade that would fit, so I hand routed from the underside, progressively going deeper as I came to the apex of contact. Then I ran a narrow board front to back over the insert and clamped it to the saw top. I powered up and ran the blade through both the insert and clamped piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The insert is usable, but not finished. The screws used to mount the steel insert won't work with the new wood insert. Instead, they are screwed into the top and will be used as height adjustment for the insert after I fasten magnetic strips to the underside of the insert where the screws are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a little wiggle room along the length of the insert, so I think once the magnetic strips are attached, if it still moves around I will paint the edges and underside to make up the difference.
> 
> The last accomplishment was the fastening of a wood rail to the fence. Again, using a cut to length 1/2" piece of milled pallet wood, I used sheet rock screws to attach it to the metal fence. The reason for this was the fence was not straight and being that it's rectangular tubing there isn't any way to straighten it out. I applied paste wax to the top of the insert and the rail facing and bottom edges.
> 
> Tomorrow, I mark and cut out a hole in the saw body to accept the 2-1/2" dust extraction port, then attach the port using a gasket to get a tight seal. Just in time was today's delivery of the 10' hose. So I guess tomorrow I will be assembling and using my Dust Deputy setup.


You are a man on a mission


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Zero Clearance Insert, Hard Wood Fence Rail, Chisel Sharpening*
> 
> My day started at 4:30 am, way too early for getting to bed shortly before midnight. I blame this flu I can't get rid of and a lot of heavy dreaming. And yet, I had one of the most productive days in the past week. Most of the afternoon was spent sharpening chisels, mounting a wood fence rail and creating a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. Here are some pics of what I accomplished.
> 
> The Chisels
> The chisel sharpening took up a good portion of the day. It was my first chance to try out the Rockler honing guide and diamond honing stone I bought from Lowe's. The stone only had one side, fine, so I ended up using various grades of sandpaper to deal with the rough shape of some of my chisels. What was surprising was the inconsistent results between the chisels I worked on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two were plastic handled, very inexpensive chisels, one half-inch, the other with a 1-inch blade. Both of these had damaged ends, so a metal file was used to file the end flat. The wider chisel came out pretty sharp. The half-inch chisel appeared to be sharp, but no matter what I did I couldn't get it as sharp as its bigger brother. Here is the half-inch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/2" was the experimental first, the least valuable and therefore expendable if I really messed it up. When I decided I couldn't get any better edge, I took a piece of milled pallet wood and did some practicing on it. Here is a close-up of what I accomplished with the chisel. The dimension of the cutout is approximately one inch square. Bear in mind I haven't done free-hand chisel work like this in quite a few years. A rubber mallet was used only to cut the ledges from above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Bench Saw
> I decided to make a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Type 2 10" Bench Saw using a 1/2" thick milled piece of pallet wood. Because the metal insert is very thin and sits upon ledges close to the surface of the cast top, the contact points were going to have to be routed out of the 1/2" thick blank. I used a 1/4" shank trim router: freehand except for the wide edge on the motor side.
> 
> The messy part was finding a way to get enough material removed where the highest point of the blade touched the insert so it would sit flush with the table top before I turned on the saw. I didn't have a smaller blade that would fit, so I hand routed from the underside, progressively going deeper as I came to the apex of contact. Then I ran a narrow board front to back over the insert and clamped it to the saw top. I powered up and ran the blade through both the insert and clamped piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The insert is usable, but not finished. The screws used to mount the steel insert won't work with the new wood insert. Instead, they are screwed into the top and will be used as height adjustment for the insert after I fasten magnetic strips to the underside of the insert where the screws are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a little wiggle room along the length of the insert, so I think once the magnetic strips are attached, if it still moves around I will paint the edges and underside to make up the difference.
> 
> The last accomplishment was the fastening of a wood rail to the fence. Again, using a cut to length 1/2" piece of milled pallet wood, I used sheet rock screws to attach it to the metal fence. The reason for this was the fence was not straight and being that it's rectangular tubing there isn't any way to straighten it out. I applied paste wax to the top of the insert and the rail facing and bottom edges.
> 
> Tomorrow, I mark and cut out a hole in the saw body to accept the 2-1/2" dust extraction port, then attach the port using a gasket to get a tight seal. Just in time was today's delivery of the 10' hose. So I guess tomorrow I will be assembling and using my Dust Deputy setup.


A day in the shop, no matter what you're doing, is a day well spent! The important thing is that you are having fun.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Zero Clearance Insert, Hard Wood Fence Rail, Chisel Sharpening*
> 
> My day started at 4:30 am, way too early for getting to bed shortly before midnight. I blame this flu I can't get rid of and a lot of heavy dreaming. And yet, I had one of the most productive days in the past week. Most of the afternoon was spent sharpening chisels, mounting a wood fence rail and creating a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. Here are some pics of what I accomplished.
> 
> The Chisels
> The chisel sharpening took up a good portion of the day. It was my first chance to try out the Rockler honing guide and diamond honing stone I bought from Lowe's. The stone only had one side, fine, so I ended up using various grades of sandpaper to deal with the rough shape of some of my chisels. What was surprising was the inconsistent results between the chisels I worked on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two were plastic handled, very inexpensive chisels, one half-inch, the other with a 1-inch blade. Both of these had damaged ends, so a metal file was used to file the end flat. The wider chisel came out pretty sharp. The half-inch chisel appeared to be sharp, but no matter what I did I couldn't get it as sharp as its bigger brother. Here is the half-inch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/2" was the experimental first, the least valuable and therefore expendable if I really messed it up. When I decided I couldn't get any better edge, I took a piece of milled pallet wood and did some practicing on it. Here is a close-up of what I accomplished with the chisel. The dimension of the cutout is approximately one inch square. Bear in mind I haven't done free-hand chisel work like this in quite a few years. A rubber mallet was used only to cut the ledges from above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Bench Saw
> I decided to make a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Type 2 10" Bench Saw using a 1/2" thick milled piece of pallet wood. Because the metal insert is very thin and sits upon ledges close to the surface of the cast top, the contact points were going to have to be routed out of the 1/2" thick blank. I used a 1/4" shank trim router: freehand except for the wide edge on the motor side.
> 
> The messy part was finding a way to get enough material removed where the highest point of the blade touched the insert so it would sit flush with the table top before I turned on the saw. I didn't have a smaller blade that would fit, so I hand routed from the underside, progressively going deeper as I came to the apex of contact. Then I ran a narrow board front to back over the insert and clamped it to the saw top. I powered up and ran the blade through both the insert and clamped piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The insert is usable, but not finished. The screws used to mount the steel insert won't work with the new wood insert. Instead, they are screwed into the top and will be used as height adjustment for the insert after I fasten magnetic strips to the underside of the insert where the screws are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a little wiggle room along the length of the insert, so I think once the magnetic strips are attached, if it still moves around I will paint the edges and underside to make up the difference.
> 
> The last accomplishment was the fastening of a wood rail to the fence. Again, using a cut to length 1/2" piece of milled pallet wood, I used sheet rock screws to attach it to the metal fence. The reason for this was the fence was not straight and being that it's rectangular tubing there isn't any way to straighten it out. I applied paste wax to the top of the insert and the rail facing and bottom edges.
> 
> Tomorrow, I mark and cut out a hole in the saw body to accept the 2-1/2" dust extraction port, then attach the port using a gasket to get a tight seal. Just in time was today's delivery of the 10' hose. So I guess tomorrow I will be assembling and using my Dust Deputy setup.





> You are a man on a mission
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks. Yeah, a mission alright. Sometimes, I get shot down on the way to my own funeral.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Zero Clearance Insert, Hard Wood Fence Rail, Chisel Sharpening*
> 
> My day started at 4:30 am, way too early for getting to bed shortly before midnight. I blame this flu I can't get rid of and a lot of heavy dreaming. And yet, I had one of the most productive days in the past week. Most of the afternoon was spent sharpening chisels, mounting a wood fence rail and creating a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. Here are some pics of what I accomplished.
> 
> The Chisels
> The chisel sharpening took up a good portion of the day. It was my first chance to try out the Rockler honing guide and diamond honing stone I bought from Lowe's. The stone only had one side, fine, so I ended up using various grades of sandpaper to deal with the rough shape of some of my chisels. What was surprising was the inconsistent results between the chisels I worked on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two were plastic handled, very inexpensive chisels, one half-inch, the other with a 1-inch blade. Both of these had damaged ends, so a metal file was used to file the end flat. The wider chisel came out pretty sharp. The half-inch chisel appeared to be sharp, but no matter what I did I couldn't get it as sharp as its bigger brother. Here is the half-inch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/2" was the experimental first, the least valuable and therefore expendable if I really messed it up. When I decided I couldn't get any better edge, I took a piece of milled pallet wood and did some practicing on it. Here is a close-up of what I accomplished with the chisel. The dimension of the cutout is approximately one inch square. Bear in mind I haven't done free-hand chisel work like this in quite a few years. A rubber mallet was used only to cut the ledges from above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Bench Saw
> I decided to make a zero-clearance insert for the Delta 36-510 Type 2 10" Bench Saw using a 1/2" thick milled piece of pallet wood. Because the metal insert is very thin and sits upon ledges close to the surface of the cast top, the contact points were going to have to be routed out of the 1/2" thick blank. I used a 1/4" shank trim router: freehand except for the wide edge on the motor side.
> 
> The messy part was finding a way to get enough material removed where the highest point of the blade touched the insert so it would sit flush with the table top before I turned on the saw. I didn't have a smaller blade that would fit, so I hand routed from the underside, progressively going deeper as I came to the apex of contact. Then I ran a narrow board front to back over the insert and clamped it to the saw top. I powered up and ran the blade through both the insert and clamped piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The insert is usable, but not finished. The screws used to mount the steel insert won't work with the new wood insert. Instead, they are screwed into the top and will be used as height adjustment for the insert after I fasten magnetic strips to the underside of the insert where the screws are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a little wiggle room along the length of the insert, so I think once the magnetic strips are attached, if it still moves around I will paint the edges and underside to make up the difference.
> 
> The last accomplishment was the fastening of a wood rail to the fence. Again, using a cut to length 1/2" piece of milled pallet wood, I used sheet rock screws to attach it to the metal fence. The reason for this was the fence was not straight and being that it's rectangular tubing there isn't any way to straighten it out. I applied paste wax to the top of the insert and the rail facing and bottom edges.
> 
> Tomorrow, I mark and cut out a hole in the saw body to accept the 2-1/2" dust extraction port, then attach the port using a gasket to get a tight seal. Just in time was today's delivery of the 10' hose. So I guess tomorrow I will be assembling and using my Dust Deputy setup.





> A day in the shop, no matter what you re doing, is a day well spent! The important thing is that you are having fun.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Sigh. I know you are right, but…the pressure gets to me. Today it will be in the 60s. After that, rain, snow and cold for a long time…and I still haven't gotten the shop together to work in it. I need a time machine. Just for a week or so.


----------



## retired_guru

*Delta Bench Saw Bearing Woes*

After all the time I have put into refurbishing this saw, after all the gross and fine adjustments made, at the end of it all the saw is unusable. How bad is it? A 90 degree miter cut of a 1/2" thick piece of hardwood only a few inches deep leaves at least one stepped kerf in cut and on both axis the cut is not square. You can smell wood burning and see the practically new blade struggle to get through the cut. A rip cut leaves sporadically located kerf marks along the cut edges on both side. Even light burn marks. The blade is squared to the miter slot to within a 1/32" at the back and as close as possible with a cast aluminum top for 90 degrees vertical true. The fence face is square to the top and blade, plus I measure front and back of the blade to the fence before ripping. It also sounds rough through my ear protection when cutting.

Before buying the saw I wiggled the installed blade to check for bearing wear. I thought there was a little too much play. The long country roads drive made me antsy to buy the thing. A new armature bearing is about $30.00, by the time you add the shipping. Is the saw worth it? Probably not.

I couldn't care less about the $25.00 investment in the saw. It's the time I have spent refurbishing the saw that has me torqued. For now, it's a put-away for a future time when I have the shop up and some time to kill dismantling the motor carriage and motor. And here I am a month later with the base unfinished and the Skilsaw table saw my 'catch-22' choice. Not a happy camper.


----------



## NormG

retired_guru said:


> *Delta Bench Saw Bearing Woes*
> 
> After all the time I have put into refurbishing this saw, after all the gross and fine adjustments made, at the end of it all the saw is unusable. How bad is it? A 90 degree miter cut of a 1/2" thick piece of hardwood only a few inches deep leaves at least one stepped kerf in cut and on both axis the cut is not square. You can smell wood burning and see the practically new blade struggle to get through the cut. A rip cut leaves sporadically located kerf marks along the cut edges on both side. Even light burn marks. The blade is squared to the miter slot to within a 1/32" at the back and as close as possible with a cast aluminum top for 90 degrees vertical true. The fence face is square to the top and blade, plus I measure front and back of the blade to the fence before ripping. It also sounds rough through my ear protection when cutting.
> 
> Before buying the saw I wiggled the installed blade to check for bearing wear. I thought there was a little too much play. The long country roads drive made me antsy to buy the thing. A new armature bearing is about $30.00, by the time you add the shipping. Is the saw worth it? Probably not.
> 
> I couldn't care less about the $25.00 investment in the saw. It's the time I have spent refurbishing the saw that has me torqued. For now, it's a put-away for a future time when I have the shop up and some time to kill dismantling the motor carriage and motor. And here I am a month later with the base unfinished and the Skilsaw table saw my 'catch-22' choice. Not a happy camper.


Sorry to hear of your frustration with this saw. You made a wise choice to put it away for a while and return at a later time.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Delta Bench Saw Bearing Woes*
> 
> After all the time I have put into refurbishing this saw, after all the gross and fine adjustments made, at the end of it all the saw is unusable. How bad is it? A 90 degree miter cut of a 1/2" thick piece of hardwood only a few inches deep leaves at least one stepped kerf in cut and on both axis the cut is not square. You can smell wood burning and see the practically new blade struggle to get through the cut. A rip cut leaves sporadically located kerf marks along the cut edges on both side. Even light burn marks. The blade is squared to the miter slot to within a 1/32" at the back and as close as possible with a cast aluminum top for 90 degrees vertical true. The fence face is square to the top and blade, plus I measure front and back of the blade to the fence before ripping. It also sounds rough through my ear protection when cutting.
> 
> Before buying the saw I wiggled the installed blade to check for bearing wear. I thought there was a little too much play. The long country roads drive made me antsy to buy the thing. A new armature bearing is about $30.00, by the time you add the shipping. Is the saw worth it? Probably not.
> 
> I couldn't care less about the $25.00 investment in the saw. It's the time I have spent refurbishing the saw that has me torqued. For now, it's a put-away for a future time when I have the shop up and some time to kill dismantling the motor carriage and motor. And here I am a month later with the base unfinished and the Skilsaw table saw my 'catch-22' choice. Not a happy camper.


Sorry, Perhaps a better deal is just around the corner.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Delta Bench Saw Bearing Woes*
> 
> After all the time I have put into refurbishing this saw, after all the gross and fine adjustments made, at the end of it all the saw is unusable. How bad is it? A 90 degree miter cut of a 1/2" thick piece of hardwood only a few inches deep leaves at least one stepped kerf in cut and on both axis the cut is not square. You can smell wood burning and see the practically new blade struggle to get through the cut. A rip cut leaves sporadically located kerf marks along the cut edges on both side. Even light burn marks. The blade is squared to the miter slot to within a 1/32" at the back and as close as possible with a cast aluminum top for 90 degrees vertical true. The fence face is square to the top and blade, plus I measure front and back of the blade to the fence before ripping. It also sounds rough through my ear protection when cutting.
> 
> Before buying the saw I wiggled the installed blade to check for bearing wear. I thought there was a little too much play. The long country roads drive made me antsy to buy the thing. A new armature bearing is about $30.00, by the time you add the shipping. Is the saw worth it? Probably not.
> 
> I couldn't care less about the $25.00 investment in the saw. It's the time I have spent refurbishing the saw that has me torqued. For now, it's a put-away for a future time when I have the shop up and some time to kill dismantling the motor carriage and motor. And here I am a month later with the base unfinished and the Skilsaw table saw my 'catch-22' choice. Not a happy camper.





> Sorry to hear of your frustration with this saw. You made a wise choice to put it away for a while and return at a later time.
> 
> - NormG


Thanks, Norm. I made an impulsive decision to buy this beat-up saw. Lesson learned.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Delta Bench Saw Bearing Woes*
> 
> After all the time I have put into refurbishing this saw, after all the gross and fine adjustments made, at the end of it all the saw is unusable. How bad is it? A 90 degree miter cut of a 1/2" thick piece of hardwood only a few inches deep leaves at least one stepped kerf in cut and on both axis the cut is not square. You can smell wood burning and see the practically new blade struggle to get through the cut. A rip cut leaves sporadically located kerf marks along the cut edges on both side. Even light burn marks. The blade is squared to the miter slot to within a 1/32" at the back and as close as possible with a cast aluminum top for 90 degrees vertical true. The fence face is square to the top and blade, plus I measure front and back of the blade to the fence before ripping. It also sounds rough through my ear protection when cutting.
> 
> Before buying the saw I wiggled the installed blade to check for bearing wear. I thought there was a little too much play. The long country roads drive made me antsy to buy the thing. A new armature bearing is about $30.00, by the time you add the shipping. Is the saw worth it? Probably not.
> 
> I couldn't care less about the $25.00 investment in the saw. It's the time I have spent refurbishing the saw that has me torqued. For now, it's a put-away for a future time when I have the shop up and some time to kill dismantling the motor carriage and motor. And here I am a month later with the base unfinished and the Skilsaw table saw my 'catch-22' choice. Not a happy camper.





> Sorry, Perhaps a better deal is just around the corner.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks. I'm sure there is. If I am lucky, I will be able to afford it when it happens on by.


----------



## retired_guru

*Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*

A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.

All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:










Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.

The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.


----------



## Notw

retired_guru said:


> *Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.
> 
> All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.
> 
> The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.


Looks good, other than the fact that I use PVC to connect my shop vac to my dust deputy and I use a 3 gallon bucket (needed a lower bucket to be able to tuck all this under my stairs) it is the exact same thing I use. As long as I remember to empty the bucket it works great for keeping saw dust and planer chips off the floor.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.
> 
> All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.
> 
> The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.





> Looks good, other than the fact that I use PVC to connect my shop vac to my dust deputy and I use a 3 gallon bucket (needed a lower bucket to be able to tuck all this under my stairs) it is the exact same thing I use. As long as I remember to empty the bucket it works great for keeping saw dust and planer chips off the floor.
> 
> - Notw


Is the Dust Deputy working well for you?

I would love to have a permanent installation like yours. I don't know how long the wife and I will stay here, so I an reluctant to invest in dust collection plumbing. I know I am losing suction with the connections on the Shop Vac hoses. The hoses create turbulence that decreases efficiency. But as I have to go, I can wheel it to the machine in use system or locate it somewhere out of the way and connect hoses to machinery as being used.


----------



## Notw

retired_guru said:


> *Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.
> 
> All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.
> 
> The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.


Is the Dust Deputy working well for you?

I would love to have a permanent installation like yours. I don t know how long the wife and I will stay here, so I an reluctant to invest in dust collection plumbing. I know I am losing suction with the connections on the Shop Vac hoses. The hoses create turbulence that decreases efficiency. But as I have to go, I can wheel it to the machine in use system or locate it somewhere out of the way and connect hoses to machinery as being used.

- Paul Bucalo
[/QUOTE]

Dust deputy works fine for me, I'm about to build a shop made air filter for the fine dust in the air.

I think my last comment was a little unclear, I don't have PVC hard line going to each machine, the PVC is just from the top of the dust deputy to the inlet on the shop vac. I still have a single flex hose that I move from machine to machine. I switched to the PVC at the top of the dust deputy because I didn't use as much hose as you have and the hose was making too sharp of a turn and I wasn't getting the full diameter of the hose. I'll try to snap a picture of it, might make more sense.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.
> 
> All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.
> 
> The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.





> Dust deputy works fine for me, I'm about to build a shop made air filter for the fine dust in the air.
> 
> I think my last comment was a little unclear, I don t have PVC hard line going to each machine, the PVC is just from the top of the dust deputy to the inlet on the shop vac. I still have a single flex hose that I move from machine to machine. I switched to the PVC at the top of the dust deputy because I didn t use as much hose as you have and the hose was making too sharp of a turn and I wasn t getting the full diameter of the hose. I ll try to snap a picture of it, might make more sense.
> 
> - Notw


Yes, it's clearer now what you have. Please do pass on a picture of your setup. I always learn something from the wait others do things.

The main reason for using flexible hosing between the Dust Deputy and the vac was so that I could swap between the two that I have. If this smaller Shop Vac doesn't create enough vacuum I can use the large sears vac, build an attachment to its removable base, and use that one instead.


----------



## Notw

retired_guru said:


> *Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.
> 
> All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.
> 
> The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.


Hopefully the old saying of better late than never works here as well, sorry it took me so long to send you some pics of my Dust Deputy. I apologize for all the dust and dirt on the system, the cleaning lady must be on holiday.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dust Collection Finally Up and Running!*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 2-1/2" universal port that I had hoped to use on the backside of the Delta 36-510 Bench Saw. With that beast being parked indefinitely due to a bad armature bearing, I can now use it for it's original intent: a dust collection port for the yet-to-be-finished base for the Skilsaw 3410-02 that I started over a month ago. Along with the port I ordered a 10' length of wire reinforced 2-1/2" dust collection hose. The hose was suppose to be the input and output hose to the Dust Deputy Cyclone I had mounted on a 5 gal. bucket. It would connect to either the 6 peak h.p. 16 gal. Sears Wet/Dry Vac or the smaller, more compact and newly acquired Shop Vac that fits on a dolly I made for this purpose. The latter can accept a finer particle bag and already uses a HEPA filter inside. The Sears is too old and wasn't designed for either.
> 
> All of this should have worked. It didn't .The ordered hose has a much larger internal diameter than the widest outer diameter on the Dust Deputy's ports. A call to Rockler tech support ended up lasting over 30 minutes and ended with my thanks and a no thanks to a cob-job solution that would have cost me as must as the hose did. The answer, ironically, came from our local Lowe's in the form of a new Shop Vac hose and extension set. The two cost more than the other hose, but they solved the connectivity problem with the Dust Deputy, and the extension pack allowed for the connection of the two hoses together as well as giving a connection point for the Rockler hose and some of my equipment. In effect, I really didn't need the reinforced Rocker hose. At least I can still use it in my setup. Here you can see the finished collection system with the extension tube connecting the new Shop Vac hose with the old Sears hose and its associated vacuuming accessory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before taking this picture I used it to vacuum up the fine broken up concrete particles. I tried this once before with my previous attempt at making my own dust collector using PVC ends. No smell of concrete or dungeon this time around. After a few minutes I did start to feel a scratchiness in the throat, which is still bothering me right now. I can't say that I am surprised, and I am only slightly disappointed. The system was designed for sawdust collection, not concrete dust. The floor has to be cleaned before I can setup down there. As efficient as this system is I am fine with needing to wear a mask whenever I do the floor.
> 
> The second picture shows how much pallet wood I have to put away before I can bring down the 3'x6' bench from the second floor back room. The good news is that I was successful in relocating the 13 cu. ft. chest freezer to another wall and that will give me that side of the coal bin area to build a lumber rack. You can also see why I need to build the base for the Skilsaw. A very convenient foldable base for on-site use. Terrible for indoor use.





> Hopefully the old saying of better late than never works here as well, sorry it took me so long to send you some pics of my Dust Deputy. I apologize for all the dust and dirt on the system, the cleaning lady must be on holiday.
> 
> - Notw


Better late than never works for me in this case. Thanks for thinking to follow through. Appreciated.

It looks like you are using the same Shop Vac model. Mine is now making some scraping metal sounds inside. I think the bearings are going on the armature or fan shaft. Right now I have the DD connected to the Craftsman 6 HP behemoth.

I like the plumbing. When I get the shop together I will come back to this and ask you for the specifics on your plumbing.

Thanks again for posting your pics.


----------



## retired_guru

*Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*

A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:























































Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:










The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.

Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:



















I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:










And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:










Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:



















Conclusion:
I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*
> 
> A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.
> 
> Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.


Wow Paul, what an improvement. Organization always takes time up front but saves time in the long term. Great job.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*
> 
> A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.
> 
> Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.


Most excellent !! It's always nice to get things organized and make room for projects. Looks like you have a pretty nice shop space going there. I look forward to seeing it evolves in the future.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*
> 
> A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.
> 
> Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.





> Wow Paul, what an improvement. Organization always takes time up front but saves time in the long term. Great job.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks! Organizing, in my situation, means making storage and benches as I go. It is taking a lot of time to get what appears to be so little done. But if I don't do this now, I know what the results will be. I know how it will affect my desire to work in the dungeon and the workmanship I produce. It's also the best time to hone my construction skills. I can get away with some sloppy learning here.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*
> 
> A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.
> 
> Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.





> Most excellent !! It s always nice to get things organized and make room for projects. Looks like you have a pretty nice shop space going there. I look forward to seeing it evolves in the future.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks! I think the shop will come together okay. The challenges I gave to work with are severe ones, like the crumbling, broken up concrete floor, which makes it impossible to roll anything on it. I'm hoping that once things are where they need to be I can patch it up in small sections at a time. It gets better as I get things done.


----------



## shawnSK

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*
> 
> A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.
> 
> Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.


Hi Paul, I read some of your recent posts and thought I'd start way back at the beginning. I haven't skipped ahead, but the Dungeon looks promising. It's been neat to see how you are reclaiming that space. Also, based on your drill press clamp review I bought a couple and they add some nice versatility to my Workmate.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Gets A Lumber Rack*
> 
> A couple of days ago I started on a wall-mounted lumber rack in the dungeon. At that time I had barely enough room to get around the Black and Decker Power Mate and various stuff laying around, including the destructed pallet wood I had in various piles on the floor. Here is what my workspace looked like while I was constructing the rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the limited space, I didn't want to use the miter saw in this project. This past summer I bought a Stanley FatMax cross-cut hand saw, the perfect solution in this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brownish-red coloring on the tip of the blade is reflective of the camera's flash and dungeon lighting. Even after all the cutting, the blade is shiny and pitch-black from tip to handle. You can see how aggressive the teeth are on this saw. I'm sure I could prune trees with it. If you are in need of an aggressive saw that will cut straight and easy through any kind of wood, this would be a good recommendation.
> 
> Here is the finished lumber rack, along with close-ups of the arms and braces. It's in a good location. The support posts ruin the space for much of anything other than storage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with specific dimensions for this project, like the length of the arms are 16" and the braces are all patterned after the first one installed. Different thicknesses and even kinds of wood were used, so I compensated as required:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the rack loaded with the wood I had piled on the floor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the lumber off the floor and pushing some things to the sides, you can see I have a lot more space to work with now. This is only the start. Once I get the bicycle shop end organized, the dungeon will be a multi-purpose shop for all my interests and needs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> I spent a lot more time in making this rack than I had planned for. The constant search for materials and tools needed always eats up a lot of time. Once I found everything, it was a matter of finding the right dimensions from the wood pile, measuring what I needed, clamping the stock to the top of the Power Mate and sawing as straight as possible, then dry fitting with two levels before tacking with the nail gun. Once tacked, I drilled pilot holes and fastened with the appropriate screws. Leveling added extra time and effort because most of the time I had to drill the minimum amount of holes to allow alignment, fasten, then drill the rest and finish fastening. Unfortunately, I only have one portable drill heavy enough for this kind of work, so I had to switch between drill and screw bit every time. The Kobalt Speedbit set was some help, but they are so flimsy I ended up breaking the bit midway into the project, and the quick-change unit added so much length to the business end that it made it difficult to get in between the wall studs. I eventually gave up on the system and resorted to changing bits as needed. My next new tool purchase will be for another portable drill.





> Hi Paul, I read some of your recent posts and thought I d start way back at the beginning. I haven t skipped ahead, but the Dungeon looks promising. It s been neat to see how you are reclaiming that space. Also, based on your drill press clamp review I bought a couple and they add some nice versatility to my Workmate.
> 
> - shawnSK


Hi Shawn! Thanks for taking a look through my past posts. If you're willing to dredge that deep, you will be surprised to see how much The Dungeon has changed since I started this profile and blog series. I've been deep re-organizing with construction in the workshop since last fall. I should have most of it done in a week or two (sans the North room, which requires some good weather days to remove heavy junk wood destined for the landfill) and will post a walk-around then. Of course, it will always be *The Dungeon* no matter what I do to it. 

I'm glad you could find a use for the tip on the HF drill press clamps. This summer I will be replacing the wood jaws on my outdoor Workmate, so I'll see first-hand how they work.


----------



## retired_guru

*Upcycling Old Furniture for the Dungeon*

I have been making one heck of a mess in the dungeon, lately. Seriously. But it's a necessary mess, because I am slowly upcycling two pieces of old, beat-up furniture that had been in the dungeon for well over a decade into workbenches that will never win a beauty contest, but will surely be stout workhorses until their final day. I can only show you the one I am working on right now. The other one needs a new top. That will have to wait until this one is finished and I can store all the clutter into the many drawers.

This first picture is of the space the upcycled bureau will go into. It used to be in front of the old oil tank:










After a couple of hours of chiseling off the cracked and peeling veneer from its top, this is what it looks like:










Some of the veneer was still tight to the top and needed to be chiseled and pried with some damage to the underlying wood inevitable. You can see the glue was tenacious enough in some spots that all I could do was sand it smooth and let it be:










Another view of the top after being sanded with 120 grit with the belt sander:










I applied Vinyl Wood Patch to the damaged areas. The stuff I had on hand was old. By the time I got to the end closest to the camera is was drying and difficult to spread:










A couple of hours later I took the belt sander to the top, starting with 40 grit and ending with 120 grit. After a thorough wipe down with denatured alcohol I liberally applied a lemon oil for furniture restorative to the top. I wasn't sure at first if I wanted to add a lip around the back and sides. Inevitably things get shoved over the back and side edge and are forever lost. I took two long 3-1/2" wide pallet slats that I have milled down to 5/8" with the thickness planer and formed a 1" high border around the two sides and back. I applied the lemon oil to these as well. The new bench fits perfectly in the space I made for it:










Tomorrow I will work on the drawers, cleaning each one up and making sure the drawer runners are working. I'm pretty sure I am missing the bottom drawer and one of the top smaller ones. I can make replacements later on. The goal is to get the shop placed and organized in as soon as possible to make the Christmas gifts I have in mind.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Upcycling Old Furniture for the Dungeon*
> 
> I have been making one heck of a mess in the dungeon, lately. Seriously. But it's a necessary mess, because I am slowly upcycling two pieces of old, beat-up furniture that had been in the dungeon for well over a decade into workbenches that will never win a beauty contest, but will surely be stout workhorses until their final day. I can only show you the one I am working on right now. The other one needs a new top. That will have to wait until this one is finished and I can store all the clutter into the many drawers.
> 
> This first picture is of the space the upcycled bureau will go into. It used to be in front of the old oil tank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a couple of hours of chiseling off the cracked and peeling veneer from its top, this is what it looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the veneer was still tight to the top and needed to be chiseled and pried with some damage to the underlying wood inevitable. You can see the glue was tenacious enough in some spots that all I could do was sand it smooth and let it be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the top after being sanded with 120 grit with the belt sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied Vinyl Wood Patch to the damaged areas. The stuff I had on hand was old. By the time I got to the end closest to the camera is was drying and difficult to spread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of hours later I took the belt sander to the top, starting with 40 grit and ending with 120 grit. After a thorough wipe down with denatured alcohol I liberally applied a lemon oil for furniture restorative to the top. I wasn't sure at first if I wanted to add a lip around the back and sides. Inevitably things get shoved over the back and side edge and are forever lost. I took two long 3-1/2" wide pallet slats that I have milled down to 5/8" with the thickness planer and formed a 1" high border around the two sides and back. I applied the lemon oil to these as well. The new bench fits perfectly in the space I made for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will work on the drawers, cleaning each one up and making sure the drawer runners are working. I'm pretty sure I am missing the bottom drawer and one of the top smaller ones. I can make replacements later on. The goal is to get the shop placed and organized in as soon as possible to make the Christmas gifts I have in mind.


You are demonstrating a trait most Lumberjocks that I know have and that is frugality. Nice save on the dresser.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Upcycling Old Furniture for the Dungeon*
> 
> I have been making one heck of a mess in the dungeon, lately. Seriously. But it's a necessary mess, because I am slowly upcycling two pieces of old, beat-up furniture that had been in the dungeon for well over a decade into workbenches that will never win a beauty contest, but will surely be stout workhorses until their final day. I can only show you the one I am working on right now. The other one needs a new top. That will have to wait until this one is finished and I can store all the clutter into the many drawers.
> 
> This first picture is of the space the upcycled bureau will go into. It used to be in front of the old oil tank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a couple of hours of chiseling off the cracked and peeling veneer from its top, this is what it looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the veneer was still tight to the top and needed to be chiseled and pried with some damage to the underlying wood inevitable. You can see the glue was tenacious enough in some spots that all I could do was sand it smooth and let it be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the top after being sanded with 120 grit with the belt sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied Vinyl Wood Patch to the damaged areas. The stuff I had on hand was old. By the time I got to the end closest to the camera is was drying and difficult to spread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of hours later I took the belt sander to the top, starting with 40 grit and ending with 120 grit. After a thorough wipe down with denatured alcohol I liberally applied a lemon oil for furniture restorative to the top. I wasn't sure at first if I wanted to add a lip around the back and sides. Inevitably things get shoved over the back and side edge and are forever lost. I took two long 3-1/2" wide pallet slats that I have milled down to 5/8" with the thickness planer and formed a 1" high border around the two sides and back. I applied the lemon oil to these as well. The new bench fits perfectly in the space I made for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will work on the drawers, cleaning each one up and making sure the drawer runners are working. I'm pretty sure I am missing the bottom drawer and one of the top smaller ones. I can make replacements later on. The goal is to get the shop placed and organized in as soon as possible to make the Christmas gifts I have in mind.





> You are demonstrating a trait most Lumberjocks that I know have and that is frugality. Nice save on the dresser.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks you, sir. Frugality is a must if I am going to make something of this workshop. Check out my latest post (if you haven't as yet) and see what the dresser looks like now.


----------



## retired_guru

*Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*

This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.

Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.

I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.










This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.










Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*
> 
> This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.
> 
> Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.
> 
> I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.


Awesome save on that dresser. It looks like you found the missing drawers.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*
> 
> This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.
> 
> Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.
> 
> I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.





> Awesome save on that dresser. It looks like you found the missing drawers.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. And yeah, I found the drawers…they were buried under 'stuff'. I can't wait for everything to be in its place and I can actually build something. Christmas is around the corner and barreling full speed ahead.


----------



## emart

retired_guru said:


> *Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*
> 
> This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.
> 
> Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.
> 
> I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.


Just remember, it will never be this clean again. Craigslist is a huge help when you are just getting some tools together but beware once you start getting tools they multiply like rabbits… until you need a specific one that is.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*
> 
> This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.
> 
> Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.
> 
> I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.





> Just remember, it will never be this clean again. Craigslist is a huge help when you are just getting some tools together but beware once you start getting tools they multiply like rabbits… until you need a specific one that is.
> 
> - emart


Haha! I am so-o-o-o thankful that my camera can't take HD photographs! The floor is a mess and on the edges of my man-made mess the dungeon is covered in cobwebs and crap that hasn't been disturbed in decades. I have only been showing you the parts of the dungeon I think people can stomach. 

Seriously, the place is in need of a 'Spring cleaning', which will have to wait until Spring 2015. If I can carve out a usable space and get work done, I can wait until then. Dust collection and air-filtration are still major issues for me.

Craigslist to date has been a major disappointment, Eric. I live in a tiny rural 'city' that is about 50 miles from any place important or larger than we are. Ads are abundant in those areas, but rare in my vicinity. Additionally, I'm not seeing the kind of ads I'm looking for, like old hand planes and tools. This is going to be a 'long game' for me.


----------



## emart

retired_guru said:


> *Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*
> 
> This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.
> 
> Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.
> 
> I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.


Old hand planes are best found at flea markets and antique stores. I usually use craigslist for my stationary machines and have gone on road trips for some of my rarer items (had to drive 100 miles to find my blacksmithing anvil) If there is a building salvage yard or anywhere that sells used equipment you can usually get stuff from the 1960s and older for a hill of beans.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Finished Bureau-Turned-Bench And Organizing*
> 
> This afternoon I finished up the bureau-turned-bench (sans door knobs I will put on tomorrow) and did some organizing after moving a large free standing shelf unit up against the old oil tank.
> 
> Here is the new bench with band saw and drill press in place. I ran a generous wipe of lemon oil all over the dark veneer to try and bring some oil into the old wood. It darkened up nicely while the rag did a fair job of cleaning up grime and debris.
> 
> I mounted a power strip on the wall behind the bench. A short heavy duty extension cord will be custom made to connect it to the overhead outlet that I put in years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This large and deep shelf unit is made of pine boards with an OSB backing. I've had it for decades, though I can't remember where it came from. A generous application of lemon oil was applied to the pine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will fill up the drawers and shelves, hopefully getting rid of all the clutter I brought down into the dungeon. In the moving around I took out two metal cabinets that never had proper tops put on and junk cabinet that is going to the landfill. I think I will make tops for the metal cabinets and find a use for them on the bike shop end of the dungeon.





> Old hand planes are best found at flea markets and antique stores. I usually use craigslist for my stationary machines and have gone on road trips for some of my rarer items (had to drive 100 miles to find my blacksmithing anvil) If there is a building salvage yard or anywhere that sells used equipment you can usually get stuff from the 1960s and older for a hill of beans.
> 
> - emart


Antique stores in my area are likely to overcharge. Flea markets are events, usually a few times a year. Next year I will make a point of going to them. Traveling a great distance for a large stationary item doesn't make sense for me. Anything large enough for me to make the distance isn't going to fit into the back of my SUV. I will have a trailer next Spring, so that will give me some incentive to go to distant places. No building salvage yards…I live in the backwoods of Upstate New York. We count the ladies in the fields (cows) in our population count. It's hit or miss and long waits.


----------



## retired_guru

*Wall Mounted Floor Saving Workbench*

This is what I was thinking of to go up against the field stone walls around the dungeon walls.










http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/wood-work-bench/print

The tall back ends would have to be screwed (bolted?) to the overhead beams for support since there isn't any way to actually attach to the field stone. Maybe I will need to add short, sturdy feet extending out onto the floor space for additional support. Thick mil. plastic sheets between the wood and wall would keep the moisture from rotting the wood. All I need are more pallets.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Wall Mounted Floor Saving Workbench*
> 
> This is what I was thinking of to go up against the field stone walls around the dungeon walls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/wood-work-bench/print
> 
> The tall back ends would have to be screwed (bolted?) to the overhead beams for support since there isn't any way to actually attach to the field stone. Maybe I will need to add short, sturdy feet extending out onto the floor space for additional support. Thick mil. plastic sheets between the wood and wall would keep the moisture from rotting the wood. All I need are more pallets.


Good idea Paul. I like your idea of adding some short feet to the bottom. Perhaps you could build an additional shelf on top of them, then you would have three shelves rather than the two shown in the picture.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Wall Mounted Floor Saving Workbench*
> 
> This is what I was thinking of to go up against the field stone walls around the dungeon walls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/wood-work-bench/print
> 
> The tall back ends would have to be screwed (bolted?) to the overhead beams for support since there isn't any way to actually attach to the field stone. Maybe I will need to add short, sturdy feet extending out onto the floor space for additional support. Thick mil. plastic sheets between the wood and wall would keep the moisture from rotting the wood. All I need are more pallets.





> Good idea Paul. I like your idea of adding some short feet to the bottom. Perhaps you could build an additional shelf on top of them, then you would have three shelves rather than the two shown in the picture.
> 
> - luv2learn


That would be a great idea, Lee, if I had more ceiling height. Right now, depending on where one stands, I have as little as 5' 9". It still might work where I have right up to the first floor joist.

One reason I liked this design is the use of peg board on the top. Currently, I have a framed sheet of pegboard hanging from ceiling in the bike shop area. I found over time the setup wasn't very efficient. If I were to rip it's height and mount its length width-wise across the back of this design, I would have enough for maybe 12' of space. I also like that the benches *don't* come out as far as the top shelf or bench top. More room for other things that must be slid out of the way or temporarily put on the floor while I work.


----------



## AkBob

retired_guru said:


> *Wall Mounted Floor Saving Workbench*
> 
> This is what I was thinking of to go up against the field stone walls around the dungeon walls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/wood-work-bench/print
> 
> The tall back ends would have to be screwed (bolted?) to the overhead beams for support since there isn't any way to actually attach to the field stone. Maybe I will need to add short, sturdy feet extending out onto the floor space for additional support. Thick mil. plastic sheets between the wood and wall would keep the moisture from rotting the wood. All I need are more pallets.


I could be wrong here, it looks as if the short feet would have to extend beyond the front edge of the bench or it would end up top heavy? just a thought.

Great Idea for a space saving bench though.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Wall Mounted Floor Saving Workbench*
> 
> This is what I was thinking of to go up against the field stone walls around the dungeon walls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/wood-work-bench/print
> 
> The tall back ends would have to be screwed (bolted?) to the overhead beams for support since there isn't any way to actually attach to the field stone. Maybe I will need to add short, sturdy feet extending out onto the floor space for additional support. Thick mil. plastic sheets between the wood and wall would keep the moisture from rotting the wood. All I need are more pallets.





> I could be wrong here, it looks as if the short feet would have to extend beyond the front edge of the bench or it would end up top heavy? just a thought.
> 
> Great Idea for a space saving bench though.
> 
> - AkBob


Upon inspection of the plans I came across where the top cross piece is bolted to the concrete wall or wood studs. That would secure the top and keep it from tipping forward. However, I can't attach to the field stone so this won't work for me. Bummer. :/


----------



## retired_guru

*The Ghost of Delta Present*

Okay, so I couldn't leave it alone. Sue me.

It all started when I brought down to the dungeon the multi-purpose base I originally made for the router table, then added mounts to for the Delta 36-510 table saw I bought used earlier this year. I decided with a little bit of room to move around down there I would once again see if the arbor bearing was really as bad I as had thought before. For testing I mounted a spare Skilsaw 10" 28T combination blade. I made no adjustments to the vertical blade angle or the alignment of the blade to the miter slots from the last time I used it. I grabbed a small 4" wide pallet slat that had a decent straight edge to make my first cut.

As before, I saw a lot of burning in the cuts I made. I wondered if I was feeding too slow and the board was bouncing into and off the fence as I was feeding. Speeding up the feed rate got rid of that problem, however another problem surfaced, now that the cut was clean. The blade was sniping the last 1/4" of the board as it exited from between it and the fence. A few attempts with more pressure from the oversized thin push block didn't help. I decided to cleanup and mount the riving knife/blade guard assembly. The riving knife might be able to keep the the inside board from running into the rear of the blade. And it worked. Here is what the saw now looks like with the combination riving knife and blade guard assembly mounted.



















I set the miter jig to 90 degrees and trimmed off the bad edges, now that I have two parallel cut edges. The ends came out dead on after several tweaks of the miter angel using a small square. Here is what the board looked like after all cuts were made.










Here is a cross-cut end.










The closer edge of the rip cut.










And the rear most edge of the rip.










It's unfortunate that my camera (and skill level) can't show what my eyes can see. For what can be seen in these photos, do you think the cut quality is accurate enough for non-cabinetry type construction? I'm speaking of better than contractor quality work, but not where the tolerances are measured in thousands.


----------



## retired_guru

*Hemlock woes*

I haven't been posting much this year, mostly because I have been busy with other projects, but also because some of the cold spells we have had in Update New York have made working in a cold dungeon workshop unbearable when one is felling cold all the time. Fortunately, Spring isn't too far away. I'll get through this and soon be able to enjoy spending more time in the shop.

The title of this blog entry comes from a correspondence earlier today with a trusted, experienced woodworking peer that I have been buying plans from for outdoor furniture. I have been using pallet wood for the majority of my construction needs because of its inexpensive (usually free) abundance in my area. Since pallets come from all over the country, the wood used in their construction varies a little. Mostly, the pallets I find in good condition are made of hemlock, a popular wood commonly used in this part of the country for outdoor durability. What I didn't realize until this morning is that hemlock is considered a toxic wood. Skin irritation from prolonged contact is possible. Breathing in the dust can cause respiratory problems. I didn't know.

You know what they say about hindsight? I had noticed that when I was creating sawdust in the shop, even a small amount of the dust that I couldn't see floating in the air would cause my allergies to kick up later in the day or on the next day. Wearing a chemical respirator (a quality filtering mask was not enough) kept me from feeling these symptoms. My wife, who has even more severe allergies, noticed she couldn't be around the 'aroma', back when I had used my newly purchased DeWalt thickness planer to plane down quite a bit of hemlock. I liked the smell, but admittedly I felt some symptoms later on. I never connected the two, really. I just thought I was obviously sensitive to wood dust, as most are who suffer from dust allergies. I mean, I have to take a med year round for indoor and outdoors issues. So it goes without saying I am extremely grateful to learn about this now, before I swung into production.

Along with the relief in knowing there is a great sense of disappointment. Lumber is very expensive in my area. My current half-shoestring budget prohibits ordering practical quantities of quality plywood and exotic woods. An increase in cost of production can't help but increase the cost of sale. Being a long-time entrepreneur, I know what happens when goods can't be made cheaply enough to be competitive in the market. The plans I alluded to in the beginning of this blog will require a sizable (well, for me) investment for each unit built. My area is 'funny' in that there is no longer any middle class, so whether these goods will sell to those above my station or not is questionable in my mind. At any rate, I am committed to the sale of these units in so far as I have to build at least one of each model and then see whether the market is there in my area. I can still use hemlock for these if I seal the wood with a finish, but really, I don't want to take a chance on anyone having a reaction to the wood, and I don't have the best ventilation to continue working with a wood that is probably really bothering me more than I have realized.


----------



## BTimmons

retired_guru said:


> *Hemlock woes*
> 
> I haven't been posting much this year, mostly because I have been busy with other projects, but also because some of the cold spells we have had in Update New York have made working in a cold dungeon workshop unbearable when one is felling cold all the time. Fortunately, Spring isn't too far away. I'll get through this and soon be able to enjoy spending more time in the shop.
> 
> The title of this blog entry comes from a correspondence earlier today with a trusted, experienced woodworking peer that I have been buying plans from for outdoor furniture. I have been using pallet wood for the majority of my construction needs because of its inexpensive (usually free) abundance in my area. Since pallets come from all over the country, the wood used in their construction varies a little. Mostly, the pallets I find in good condition are made of hemlock, a popular wood commonly used in this part of the country for outdoor durability. What I didn't realize until this morning is that hemlock is considered a toxic wood. Skin irritation from prolonged contact is possible. Breathing in the dust can cause respiratory problems. I didn't know.
> 
> You know what they say about hindsight? I had noticed that when I was creating sawdust in the shop, even a small amount of the dust that I couldn't see floating in the air would cause my allergies to kick up later in the day or on the next day. Wearing a chemical respirator (a quality filtering mask was not enough) kept me from feeling these symptoms. My wife, who has even more severe allergies, noticed she couldn't be around the 'aroma', back when I had used my newly purchased DeWalt thickness planer to plane down quite a bit of hemlock. I liked the smell, but admittedly I felt some symptoms later on. I never connected the two, really. I just thought I was obviously sensitive to wood dust, as most are who suffer from dust allergies. I mean, I have to take a med year round for indoor and outdoors issues. So it goes without saying I am extremely grateful to learn about this now, before I swung into production.
> 
> Along with the relief in knowing there is a great sense of disappointment. Lumber is very expensive in my area. My current half-shoestring budget prohibits ordering practical quantities of quality plywood and exotic woods. An increase in cost of production can't help but increase the cost of sale. Being a long-time entrepreneur, I know what happens when goods can't be made cheaply enough to be competitive in the market. The plans I alluded to in the beginning of this blog will require a sizable (well, for me) investment for each unit built. My area is 'funny' in that there is no longer any middle class, so whether these goods will sell to those above my station or not is questionable in my mind. At any rate, I am committed to the sale of these units in so far as I have to build at least one of each model and then see whether the market is there in my area. I can still use hemlock for these if I seal the wood with a finish, but really, I don't want to take a chance on anyone having a reaction to the wood, and I don't have the best ventilation to continue working with a wood that is probably really bothering me more than I have realized.


As for the sales question, I've found the whole "If you build it, they will come" has been true for me. And regarding hemlock, yeah, that's some nasty stuff. Drinking hemlock is what killed Socrates, after all. Assuming he was a legit historical figure and all that, and not just a legend. But that detail is in there for a reason.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hemlock woes*
> 
> I haven't been posting much this year, mostly because I have been busy with other projects, but also because some of the cold spells we have had in Update New York have made working in a cold dungeon workshop unbearable when one is felling cold all the time. Fortunately, Spring isn't too far away. I'll get through this and soon be able to enjoy spending more time in the shop.
> 
> The title of this blog entry comes from a correspondence earlier today with a trusted, experienced woodworking peer that I have been buying plans from for outdoor furniture. I have been using pallet wood for the majority of my construction needs because of its inexpensive (usually free) abundance in my area. Since pallets come from all over the country, the wood used in their construction varies a little. Mostly, the pallets I find in good condition are made of hemlock, a popular wood commonly used in this part of the country for outdoor durability. What I didn't realize until this morning is that hemlock is considered a toxic wood. Skin irritation from prolonged contact is possible. Breathing in the dust can cause respiratory problems. I didn't know.
> 
> You know what they say about hindsight? I had noticed that when I was creating sawdust in the shop, even a small amount of the dust that I couldn't see floating in the air would cause my allergies to kick up later in the day or on the next day. Wearing a chemical respirator (a quality filtering mask was not enough) kept me from feeling these symptoms. My wife, who has even more severe allergies, noticed she couldn't be around the 'aroma', back when I had used my newly purchased DeWalt thickness planer to plane down quite a bit of hemlock. I liked the smell, but admittedly I felt some symptoms later on. I never connected the two, really. I just thought I was obviously sensitive to wood dust, as most are who suffer from dust allergies. I mean, I have to take a med year round for indoor and outdoors issues. So it goes without saying I am extremely grateful to learn about this now, before I swung into production.
> 
> Along with the relief in knowing there is a great sense of disappointment. Lumber is very expensive in my area. My current half-shoestring budget prohibits ordering practical quantities of quality plywood and exotic woods. An increase in cost of production can't help but increase the cost of sale. Being a long-time entrepreneur, I know what happens when goods can't be made cheaply enough to be competitive in the market. The plans I alluded to in the beginning of this blog will require a sizable (well, for me) investment for each unit built. My area is 'funny' in that there is no longer any middle class, so whether these goods will sell to those above my station or not is questionable in my mind. At any rate, I am committed to the sale of these units in so far as I have to build at least one of each model and then see whether the market is there in my area. I can still use hemlock for these if I seal the wood with a finish, but really, I don't want to take a chance on anyone having a reaction to the wood, and I don't have the best ventilation to continue working with a wood that is probably really bothering me more than I have realized.





> As for the sales question, I ve found the whole "If you build it, they will come" has been true for me. And regarding hemlock, yeah, that s some nasty stuff. Drinking hemlock is what killed Socrates, after all. Assuming he was a legit historical figure and all that, and not just a legend. But that detail is in there for a reason.
> 
> - BTimmons


Brian, thanks for the comments. I think your point about sales is true, to a point. I have been a professional sales person for over three decades. To that end I know what you have said to be true. It's the woodworking that I am new to and that weights heavily in my decision making for products to sell.

I took a look at your beard combs (as a new 'beardie' I find them desirable and myself wanton) and that small-sized, hand crafted item is a perfect example of meeting people's needs and desires through Web sales. Large furniture isn't in my immediate future. My plan was to focus on Internet-marketing for smaller items, while locally and regionally reaching out to those where shipping costs wouldn't be affordable, like in the folding tables I have in mind. Will they come if I make it? Let's hope so.


----------



## BTimmons

retired_guru said:


> *Hemlock woes*
> 
> I haven't been posting much this year, mostly because I have been busy with other projects, but also because some of the cold spells we have had in Update New York have made working in a cold dungeon workshop unbearable when one is felling cold all the time. Fortunately, Spring isn't too far away. I'll get through this and soon be able to enjoy spending more time in the shop.
> 
> The title of this blog entry comes from a correspondence earlier today with a trusted, experienced woodworking peer that I have been buying plans from for outdoor furniture. I have been using pallet wood for the majority of my construction needs because of its inexpensive (usually free) abundance in my area. Since pallets come from all over the country, the wood used in their construction varies a little. Mostly, the pallets I find in good condition are made of hemlock, a popular wood commonly used in this part of the country for outdoor durability. What I didn't realize until this morning is that hemlock is considered a toxic wood. Skin irritation from prolonged contact is possible. Breathing in the dust can cause respiratory problems. I didn't know.
> 
> You know what they say about hindsight? I had noticed that when I was creating sawdust in the shop, even a small amount of the dust that I couldn't see floating in the air would cause my allergies to kick up later in the day or on the next day. Wearing a chemical respirator (a quality filtering mask was not enough) kept me from feeling these symptoms. My wife, who has even more severe allergies, noticed she couldn't be around the 'aroma', back when I had used my newly purchased DeWalt thickness planer to plane down quite a bit of hemlock. I liked the smell, but admittedly I felt some symptoms later on. I never connected the two, really. I just thought I was obviously sensitive to wood dust, as most are who suffer from dust allergies. I mean, I have to take a med year round for indoor and outdoors issues. So it goes without saying I am extremely grateful to learn about this now, before I swung into production.
> 
> Along with the relief in knowing there is a great sense of disappointment. Lumber is very expensive in my area. My current half-shoestring budget prohibits ordering practical quantities of quality plywood and exotic woods. An increase in cost of production can't help but increase the cost of sale. Being a long-time entrepreneur, I know what happens when goods can't be made cheaply enough to be competitive in the market. The plans I alluded to in the beginning of this blog will require a sizable (well, for me) investment for each unit built. My area is 'funny' in that there is no longer any middle class, so whether these goods will sell to those above my station or not is questionable in my mind. At any rate, I am committed to the sale of these units in so far as I have to build at least one of each model and then see whether the market is there in my area. I can still use hemlock for these if I seal the wood with a finish, but really, I don't want to take a chance on anyone having a reaction to the wood, and I don't have the best ventilation to continue working with a wood that is probably really bothering me more than I have realized.


Seems like you have the right idea! I also decided to start small, as it were. The combs I make, while a lot more expensive than an ordinary plastic one, aren't in the same league of "sticker shock" as something like a Nakashima table or a Krenov cabinet.

I was honestly blindsided by how much demand I encountered when I first went on the market. If you put enough thought into your ventures, hopefully you can hit upon something similar.

Best of luck.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hemlock woes*
> 
> I haven't been posting much this year, mostly because I have been busy with other projects, but also because some of the cold spells we have had in Update New York have made working in a cold dungeon workshop unbearable when one is felling cold all the time. Fortunately, Spring isn't too far away. I'll get through this and soon be able to enjoy spending more time in the shop.
> 
> The title of this blog entry comes from a correspondence earlier today with a trusted, experienced woodworking peer that I have been buying plans from for outdoor furniture. I have been using pallet wood for the majority of my construction needs because of its inexpensive (usually free) abundance in my area. Since pallets come from all over the country, the wood used in their construction varies a little. Mostly, the pallets I find in good condition are made of hemlock, a popular wood commonly used in this part of the country for outdoor durability. What I didn't realize until this morning is that hemlock is considered a toxic wood. Skin irritation from prolonged contact is possible. Breathing in the dust can cause respiratory problems. I didn't know.
> 
> You know what they say about hindsight? I had noticed that when I was creating sawdust in the shop, even a small amount of the dust that I couldn't see floating in the air would cause my allergies to kick up later in the day or on the next day. Wearing a chemical respirator (a quality filtering mask was not enough) kept me from feeling these symptoms. My wife, who has even more severe allergies, noticed she couldn't be around the 'aroma', back when I had used my newly purchased DeWalt thickness planer to plane down quite a bit of hemlock. I liked the smell, but admittedly I felt some symptoms later on. I never connected the two, really. I just thought I was obviously sensitive to wood dust, as most are who suffer from dust allergies. I mean, I have to take a med year round for indoor and outdoors issues. So it goes without saying I am extremely grateful to learn about this now, before I swung into production.
> 
> Along with the relief in knowing there is a great sense of disappointment. Lumber is very expensive in my area. My current half-shoestring budget prohibits ordering practical quantities of quality plywood and exotic woods. An increase in cost of production can't help but increase the cost of sale. Being a long-time entrepreneur, I know what happens when goods can't be made cheaply enough to be competitive in the market. The plans I alluded to in the beginning of this blog will require a sizable (well, for me) investment for each unit built. My area is 'funny' in that there is no longer any middle class, so whether these goods will sell to those above my station or not is questionable in my mind. At any rate, I am committed to the sale of these units in so far as I have to build at least one of each model and then see whether the market is there in my area. I can still use hemlock for these if I seal the wood with a finish, but really, I don't want to take a chance on anyone having a reaction to the wood, and I don't have the best ventilation to continue working with a wood that is probably really bothering me more than I have realized.





> Seems like you have the right idea! I also decided to start small, as it were. The combs I make, while a lot more expensive than an ordinary plastic one, aren t in the same league of "sticker shock" as something like a Nakashima table or a Krenov cabinet.
> 
> I was honestly blindsided by how much demand I encountered when I first went on the market. If you put enough thought into your ventures, hopefully you can hit upon something similar.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> - BTimmons


Thanks for the well wishes! You know, I worry about too much success too soon. I've had it happen to me, where I lost business because I couldn't meet the demand. you have a great product that appeals to a lot of men. I hope I can find something unique and desirable, too.


----------



## retired_guru

*Slice-n-Dice*

Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.

Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.

I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.

The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.

Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:










It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.

This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:










Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?


----------



## changeoffocus

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?


I have that same unsafe design paper cutter and every time I lift of it's storage shelf I expect to see a cut. 
After see the damage you experienced I'll need to take the caution up a notch. Your post was not what I expected from the title but thanks for the warning.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?





> I have that same unsafe design paper cutter and every time I lift of it s storage shelf I expect to see a cut.
> After see the damage you experienced I ll need to take the caution up a notch. Your post was not what I expected from the title but thanks for the warning.
> 
> - Bob Current


It was a stupid mistake on my part, Bob, but nonetheless, cutters should have a guard to protect stray hands when lifting and moving it. I plan on making a simple, effective guard for the one we own, and one for the wife's machine at her school, once I heal enough to be out in the saw dust. There is no excuse for paper cutters not having protective guards. Thanks for reading and I hope you never find a moment to be as careless asI was.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?


On the upside your wound seems to be healing pretty well.
Never ceases to amaze me how the body re-generates and heals.
Be safe and make some (half-shoestring) dust.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?





> On the upside your wound seems to be healing pretty well.


It is, thankfully. I'm glad my pudginess had put some fat between skin and moving parts. If this had gone straight in instead of at a shallow angle, it would have been a quick trip to the E.R. for stitches.



> Never ceases to amaze me how the body re-generates and heals.


Same here. I have always been a fast healer, which has surprised a few medical people over time. Seeing the daily change in the wound has made me thoughtful about how the body does this. Amazing machines, we are.



> Be safe and make some (half-shoestring) dust.
> Cheers, Jinky (James).


Thanks, James. Cheers!


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?


Egads, Man!!! That looks nasty, but it is healing well. Glad it wasn't more serious. Do be careful around things that can bite.
It's always in the back of my mind while I'm in the shop, or anywhere else, to keep my fingers in good shape. Not only does a cut or scrape hinder woodworking, but it also effects playing stringed instruments. 
It always seems that whenever I get even a stupid lttle paper cut, it always has to be right on the part of the finger that has to fret notes or place for chords. Highly irritating.

Anyway, glad you're OK!


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?


Paul, things like that can happen in a flash. I am glad it wasn't more serious and that you appear to be on the mend.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Slice-n-Dice*
> 
> Last week I decided I couldn't hold off any longer in transferring the wife to what used to be my computer business workshop. I have scaled down the business to be mostly remote access and Linux installations and service, and she really needed the space for her school work and seamstress work.
> 
> Five days ago I was heavily into the tear-down of her office upstairs when I went for the paper cutter, on its side and wedged between a folding table leg and small cabinet. What I should have done was move the cabinet and then grab the unit by its front edge. Instead, being in a focused hurry, I grabbed the top edge where the blade is. On this model, and most that I have seen advertised or in office environments, the cutting bade is exposed even when parked in the completed-cut position. This is the most ridiculous design consideration ever. After I grabbed it I allowed my hand to slide on the pull. As soon as I did it I knew I was in trouble. The blade cut a deep, shallow-angled cut into the fleshy underside of my first finger.
> 
> I know you can cut a finger off and it won't be life threatening if properly dealt with. I was still amazed at how much blood was coming out of the wound. I left some here and there as I searched for sterile bandages and gauze wrap. Trying to apply the dressing one-handed was almost comic to watch. I kept the dressing on for two days, hoping the wound had coagulated enough to allow removal of the dressing without tearing off the flap of skin laying over the cut. In retrospect, I wish I had applied cyanoacrylate and a non-stick pad over the wound before bandaging it up. That might have avoided the skin coming off with the pad. Oh well.
> 
> The wound was still oozing profusely when I applied the second dressing three days ago. This time I went with a NexCare water-proof bandage. This turned out to be a good choice.
> 
> Yesterday I removed the NexCare bandage. This is what the wound looked liked then:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks nasty, but what you are really seeing is the dried blood in and around the wound. The new skin is coming in nicely. No sign of infection. I wasn't in any pain. Five hours later I was able to wash the finger with soap and water. Most of the dried blood washed off. There was still a crack within the wound running parallel to the knuckle that could bleed if I stretched it. I decided not to cover it back up, noting that it was healing much faster in the hours it had been left to air.
> 
> This picture was taken this morning. Quite an improvement over yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at it now, you would never know what I had done. I am thankful that I am a quick healer. I am also thankful I will be getting back to work sooner over later. And to think, I didn't even do this while woodworking. Who would have thought?


Thanks Ed and Lee!

As I mentioned to Bob here earlier, it was totally my fault that it happened. I was in a hurry, as we tend to be when moving things around in a room. It's easy to forget, when you are moving household and office materials around, how dangerous such a tool can be. I'll have a guard on that beast as soon as I get back into my workshop and post my solution here for anyone needing similar.

When I am working with cutting tools, I am extremely cautious and ultra-aware of where the cutting edge is and what could draw me into it. Some would say I am too cautious, uncomfortable with the tool I am working with. It's just that I know how fast things happen and this injury was a case of not thinking before I grabbed. Plus, I have such an active imagination. I tend to dramatize the worse in my head, quite often. So it was sort of a slap in the face for me to do this to myself. A woodworker is generally going to get hurt in his workshop doing…woodworking. Oh no, not me. I have to do it while moving stuff around in the house. Sheesh.


----------



## retired_guru

*Old Hand Tools Acquisition*

Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."

A little background:

Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.

So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.

*Wooden Marking Gauge*
I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:










The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.

*Wooden Rabbet Plane*
I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?




























From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.

*Wooden Roundover Plane*
I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.




























*Wooden Shoulder Plane*
This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.





































I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?

*Stanley C557MP Plane*
It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?





































Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


----------



## changeoffocus

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


Looks to me like you got some nice old tools and you are happy with the deal it's a winner. 
I like the fact that you are asking someone to tell you if you treated the customer fairly, that says volumes about your character.
Enjoy you new found treasures.


----------



## mattcremona

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


Awesome set of tools, Paul! I'm thinking the step on the rabbet plan is a depth stop. How wide is that c557mp? That should tell you if it's in the same "class' as a No 4


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?





> Looks to me like you got some nice old tools and you are happy with the deal it s a winner.
> I like the fact that you are asking someone to tell you if you treated the customer fairly, that says volumes about your character.
> Enjoy you new found treasures.
> 
> - Bob Current


Thanks, Bob. Appreciate *your* kind words.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?





> Awesome set of tools, Paul! I m thinking the step on the rabbet plan is a depth stop. How wide is that c557mp? That should tell you if it s in the same "class as a No 4
> 
> - Matt Cremona


The measurements on the Stanley are as follows (trying to be as accurate as I could read it):

2-15/32" W x 9-3/8" L or 63 mm W x 245 mm L

When I tested out the rabbet plane the step acted as a stop depth stop.

The roundover is not symmetrical, I notice as I was using it. I wonder if this is a molding plane?

I haven't tried the shoulder plane, just the other three, which while a little rough in cutting are impressive considering they haven't been used in decades.

I manage to break off the wedge top while tapping on it. Looks like making a new wedge will be part of that plane's refurbishing process--yes, I should have disassembled first, nourished the wood, then tried it out. :/


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


Old tools like these are survivors of an era long gone. To bad they can't tell us about the many things they helped make and the man who used them. Now that they are in your position you can continue to contribute to their story by using them to build beautiful things. A good trade is when both parties come away from it satisfied with the outcome.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?





> Old tools like these are survivors of an era long gone. To bad they can t tell us about the many things they helped make and the man who used them. Now that they are in your position you can continue to contribute to their story by using them to build beautiful things. A good trade is when both parties come away from it satisfied with the outcome.
> 
> - luv2learn


Well said, Lee. In this case, I have the good fortune to see a picture of the previous owner at his bench working on a carving (my client smiled, closed her eyes, and kissed his picture after she showed it to me) and got a small bit of history on him, as well as witnessed his artistry within her home. You have to see the Christmas gift he gave her in 1940: an extraordinary, hand build and carved jewelery box that showed the depths of his love and his craftsmanship. I hope she lets me take pictures of all she has of his this Friday, when I deliver and set up her replacement computer.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


By the way…

The closet picture I have found on the Web that looks similar to the shoulder plane is what's called a Luthier Violin Maker tool, #p47. Close, but not right, because on mine the blade runs through the body and throat at an angle to the length of the sole. Weird. I just can't find anything on the one I have other than the manufacturer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-Planes-Woodworking-Tools-luthier-Violin-maker-tools-Solid-wood-p47-/141564629625


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


Great find, Paul!

Those should all be excellent users, and they have a nice history behind them.

And these couldn't have gone to a better person….


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?





> Great find, Paul!
> 
> Those should all be excellent users, and they have a nice history behind them.
> 
> And these couldn't have gone to a better person….
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thank you, Ed!

I know that every old tool has a history. Knowing the history does make the tool that much more special. Wouldn't it be great if they all carried the essence of their previous owners and that carried into your use, like a guiding angel?


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Old Hand Tools Acquisition*
> 
> Over the weekend I setup an appointment with a computer client to review a Windows XP to Linux conversion, providing a much more powerful and newer machine than her tired old Dell. The street price for my services and machine was going to be around $250, depending on training time given. We got to talking about what I have been doing since the last we spoke (about 2 years). When I mentioned I was expanding into woodworking she told me about a stash of her grandfather's hand tools she would be willing to offer in trade for services rendered and the newer machine. I wanted to say "Hell Yeah!", settled instead for "I would be delighted to consider your offer."
> 
> A little background:
> 
> Her grandfather was a woodworker by trade. His specialty was intricate hand carvings, in furniture he made as well as in carved pieces to display. If my client will let me, I would like to take pictures of his work and post them here. I do not have to be an expert to know that this man from Holland was a master craftsman of the kind not seen often today. I suspect that some of the tools I looked at were hand made by him. All were hand made by someone who knew the business of making fine tools. The exception in my stash is the Stanley plane, which was her father's, and is definitely not collectible. Later on that.
> 
> So that appointment came and went. Three hours later, I was home again. Of that time, I spent maybe 20 minutes on computer related matters. Here are pictures of what I brought home. Please feel free to comment. I am interested in knowing what I have acquired. While it would be nice to know I have picked up something highly collectible, I really want to use these and their usability is really all I care about. By the way, if it turns out that I acquired a *very* collectible piece that is well over what I am giving back, it would be good to know. I can give her more time and future services, which is what she would like if the trade wasn't equitable. If I got less, which I highly doubt, I will say nothing more to her. I'm fine with what I have.
> 
> *Wooden Marking Gauge*
> I've been meaning to make a marking gauge of my own. When I saw this hanging on her downstairs den wall, I knew I wanted it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The marking pin is barely 1/32". It's sharp, though, so do I assume correctly that this was all the tool needed? It's in great condition. Note the wood screw.
> 
> *Wooden Rabbet Plane*
> I'm calling this a rabbet plane because It will obviously do that, but the stepped bottom leads me to wonder if this is differently named and used for a specific type of rabbet cut. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From feeling the side of the iron, I don't believe it was designed to cut on sole and sole edge.
> 
> *Wooden Roundover Plane*
> I'm excited about this one. The holes on the side make me wonder if her grandfather attached hardware to the side of it for precision cutting along long lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Shoulder Plane*
> This has one massive cutting edge. On the nose it is stamped with "R. Carter" and "Troy". There are three more stampings of the same, mounted around each other in a triangle: "J. Cottier". This has the feel and size of a heavy use shoulder plane. The iron is till very, very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done a little research on the Web. References to the last name point to an Edward Carter of Troy, NY. The nose of the plane is clearly stating the creator was R. Carter. One in the same?
> 
> *Stanley C557MP Plane*
> It didn't take long on the Web to find this isn't a sought after plane. Information on its date of production vary greatly, so I don't know what to think. A couple of sites said they were produced between '62 and '67. Others have stated they were made in the '80s, when Stanley quality had taken a nose dive. Outside of minor surface rust, it is in good condition. The iron is pretty sharp for not being in use for three decades. My expectation is only that it will cut clean and straight once cleaned and tuned up. I wonder if this is in the same class as No. 4. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless of the collectible value of this acquisition (or lack thereof), I am excited about having these tools to add to my working environment. They bring me one step closer to the swoosh of hand plaining, dovetails and who knows what else that doesn't require electricity and ear protection. Cool, huh?


Perhaps they do…...


----------



## retired_guru

*Vintage 8" Folding Handle Draw Knife Acquisition*

Yesterday's lengthy (3 hour) appointment with my good friend and client yielded a surprised tip at the end of the session:

Top -









Bottom -









I had shown interest in it when I first looked at her stash of vintage tools. I opted for my other choices mainly because I didn't know if I would have cause to use this. At any rate, I'm happy to be its new owner and will clean this up and sharpen the blade for use.

I would like to know who made this tool. The only marking I can find on it is this:










Based on two factors, the overall shape of the tool and the distinct shape of the handles, the closest match appears to be Pexto. Pictures of their line of knives have the company brand and logo engraved in the center portion of the blade. This doesn't have that, so it either has been worn off through use or isn't a Pexto knife. If anyone has knowledge of its origin, please pass it on. Thanks.

Now to find a fallen tree to debark.


----------



## retired_guru

*Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*

My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.

It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.

So here's the manufacturer's box:










Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:










Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:










I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.

For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


----------



## PaulJerome

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


I have been using one for years. Great tool! I own numerous Veritas planes and tools and would recommend them to anyone considering a purchase.


----------



## Cantputjamontoast

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


it is almost impossible not to use correctly

You made a good purchase


----------



## j1212t

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


That is a solid purchase, I've used mine for about half a year now, it was a purchase well worth the price.


----------



## LJackson

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


Are there rollers on the bottom of the guide so that it doesn't scrape your sharpening stone?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


Thanks for the thumbs up on this, PaulJerome, Cantputjamontoast and Jake. Appreciated.

LJackson, there is a wide brass roller on the bottom. I do have concerns on how long it will last rubbing against a diamond plate as course as 220/240 grit. I haven't looked to see if the roller can be removed and if Veritas makes replacement. I have a heap of sharpening to do. I might find out sooner over later.


----------



## Cantputjamontoast

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.


I too wonder about the brass roller.

For "Coarse" grinding/honing I might use a different set up though she has held up pretty good on carborundum stones that are quite open.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide Arrived*
> 
> My ordered Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide arrived yesterday afternoon while I was out blowing snow hither and yonder.
> 
> It arrived in a slightly larger box than the one from the manufacturer. I was surprised it got here so quickly. When I looked at the originating address on the shipping invoice and box it became clear why. Lee Valley Tools Ltd has a physical presence in New York State: Ogdensburg. The shipping was free. Check. It was cheaper to buy from Lee Valley directly than through one of the large woodworking mail order firms that carried their line of goods. Check. I'm quite pleased with how fast the product shipped and how it arrived well packaged and safe. Check. And upon inspection of the honing guide, I have to say I am thoroughly impressed with its heft and construction. Check! If this guide doesn't do something totally unexpected, I see myself buying from Lee Valley whenever they have what I need.
> 
> So here's the manufacturer's box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon opening the box you are greeted with the instructions on use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the contents; the honing guide and angle adjustment gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the honing guide. I'm guessing a couple of pounds, easily. The angle adjustment gauge is made of aluminum with brass turn knobs. I slid the gauge onto the leading edge of the guide to see how it fit. I think this is going to work nicely.
> 
> For what this does, this is a big investment for me. I think this set will make it possible for me to work effectively and safely with chisels and hand planes. The proof, of course, is in the pudding. Tomorrow I will put it to the test and report back my results.





> I too wonder about the brass roller.
> 
> For "Coarse" grinding/honing I might use a different set up though she has held up pretty good on carborundum stones that are quite open.


This was an all or none purchase. There is no other way for me to work a rough, nicked or wrong angled edge. We'll see.


----------



## retired_guru

*DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*

I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.

Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


Hey, Paul,
Looks just like my kind of project. 
I particularly like his design for a honing guide! Looks vaguely familiar.

I wonder if an old record turntable might work for such a system.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.





> Hey, Paul,
> Looks just like my kind of project.
> I particularly like his design for a honing guide! Looks vaguely familiar.
> 
> I wonder if an old record turntable might work for such a system.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Heh-heh. I had you in mind when I posted this, Ed. I just knew you would salivate over the DIY factor. 

I wondered as well if a turntable would work. Then I read where a powerful motor and gearing system was needed. Of course. The pressure and weight applied to the spinning surface would be too great for a belt driven turntable and I doubt any direct drive unit would have the torque to sustain a constant speed under load. So I guess one could use a washing machine motor and gear/belt assembly. It would be a large, bulky machine when done. Or, how about acquiring the appropriate gearing to work with a 1/2" heavy duty AC powered hand drill?

Hmmm, I guess I better pass this one on to Izzy Swan.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


So true on the turntable motors. Come to think of it, they are rather wimpy.


----------



## vikingcape

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


My wife has one too. "Honey it broke, I'll just throw it out….." I wonder if that will work. Course I would miss the bread for lunch

Smart. Thanks for sharing


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.





> So true on the turntable motors. Come to think of it, they are rather wimpy.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Yep. But I'm sure a bunch of other possible sources are going through you mind now.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.





> My wife has one too. "Honey it broke, I ll just throw it out….." I wonder if that will work. Course I would miss the bread for lunch
> 
> Smart. Thanks for sharing
> 
> - Kaleb the Swede


You're most welcome, Kaleb!

I agree with the Instructable poster in that these things usually fail in the area that does work. If one 'breaks' it probably still has a usable motor and gear assembly. I wonder what a used one in a thrift show or off of Craigslist would cost? Hmm..


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


I'm visualizing something non-tron that involves a treadle and flywheel…..


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


Been watching a lot of Roy Underhill's video lately, Ed?


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


Yeah..Well….OK…I have….but I definitely DID NOT, just last Friday, download the PDF article about St. Roy's treadle lathe !!!


----------



## LJackson

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.


You have a pro subscription to Instructables? Wow, I always thought their info was pure crap. Whenever Instructables, eHow, or one of the other DIY instruction web sites come up in search results, I always just skipped them. I may have to give Instructables a second chance. Perhaps I'm lumping them in with the others when I shouldn't.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DIY Veritas Powered Sharpening System*
> 
> I have a Pro subscription to Instructables.com, which has come in handy many a time. In today's suggestions email I found an Instructable on making your own powered sharpening system, designed similar to the Veritas unit costing about $400 USD. Being a tinkerer at heart, I thought it precious that the motor unit came from a bread maker: my wife has one just like the one used in the Instructable. We all know where that beast will be in its second life.
> 
> Makendo's Sharpening System Instructable can found here.





> You have a pro subscription to Instructables? Wow, I always thought their info was pure crap. Whenever Instructables, eHow, or one of the other DIY instruction web sites come up in search results, I always just skipped them. I may have to give Instructables a second chance. Perhaps I m lumping them in with the others when I shouldn t.
> 
> - LJackson


LJ, just like here or any other social site. If it has been a while since you cruised the pages, you may not know that a lot of content on there is from people who would be posting here, too. Yeah, I have come up with some great stuff from there. And yes, a lot of crap, as you already know. By the way, the $20 for two years gives me the ability to not only save favorites, but to download them as a PDFs. If I only found one valuable plan per year, wouldn't you say it was worth the ten dollars each? I think so. YMMV.


----------



## retired_guru

*Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*

My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


Hey, Paul,
Watched the video. Very cool shop space. Looks like the type of place in which one could easily lose track of time.

This may sound weird, but I imagined the opening scene of walking down the short stone corridor and into the shop being set to the music of Bach's Toccata in Dmin. That's the scary sounding pipe organ music that's classically played at Halloween Haunted Hou…..uh…. never mind.

I just finished up doing a marathon read of your blog series. You been busy, Boy!

As I read about all of your tinkering and toying with stuff, a thought crossed my mind - 
I must have the other half of your shoestring!

Anyway, enjoyed the vid…and I didn't get motion sickness.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.





> Hey, Paul,
> Watched the video. Very cool shop space. Looks like the type of place in which one could easily lose track of time.


Thanks for saying so, Ed. I do lose track of time, but nowhere as much as I want. There's not place to sit, at the moment, and I have to concentrate to not trick over stuff laying around. I spend so much time looking for things. The lack of good lighting is hard on my eyes at times. These are small concerns I will fix over time. Mostly, I just get overwhelmed with the mess and sometimes it disappoints me to the point of inaction. When the weather warms up and I can bring in some more lumber from destructed pallets, I will get the walls and benches up and then, I think I wouldn't mind being down there all day. 



> This may sound weird, but I imagined the opening scene of walking down the short stone corridor and into the shop being set to the music of Bach s Toccata in Dmin. That s the scary sounding pipe organ music that s classically played at Halloween Haunted Hou…..uh…. never mind.


Ha! Don't think I haven't thought about such music for future videos. 



> I just finished up doing a marathon read of your blog series. You been busy, Boy!


Really? Wow. Thanks!

I run in spurts. Nap for far too long. 



> As I read about all of your tinkering and toying with stuff, a thought crossed my mind -
> I must have the other half of your shoestring!


Heh. If you are as tight as I have to be, I don't know if I should give you a bro-hug or my sincerest sympathies. 

This isn't my first venture into an expensive interest. With semi-retirement from the computer industry, I have a lot less funds to work with than I would like. My choice, to a point. I just can't afford a $3,000 table saw and a $900 band saw. Nothing even close. So, let's see how far I can mature my skills on a half-shoestring budget. It is the man, not the machine, that does the woodworking, right? 



> Anyway, enjoyed the vid…and I didn t get motion sickness.


Thanks again. And I'm glad I didn't make you get sick.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


Computers, eh…are you hardware, software, or both?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


Good question, Ed. I would have had a slightly different answer at different points to my near-30 year career. I'd say it started as hardware, migrated into both, ending with software, specifically Linux-base operating systems. The onset of Windows 8/8.1, and where I see Microsoft's direction, was enough for me to decide to remove technical support for Windows and focus on Linux only. It's a move I should have followed in '95, when I foresaw the future of Linux. Spilt milk, now. I just want to keep a small clientèle and get back to making things with my hands, as any decent tinkerer should.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


Years ago, in the late 1990s, I worked for about two years in the Apple Computer facility in Fountain, Colorado (just south of Colorado Springs). I was a technician in the service department, repairing broken Apple desktops sent in by customers. 
The engineer heading our department was a very long-time Apple employee, and one afternoon he brought in an extremely cool item for show-and-tell at one of our tech meetings: One of THE original Jobs/Wozniak hand-built Apple prototypes!!! He said it was one of two in existance - the other was in the Smithsonian. 
It was a pretty crude affair - built into a wooden box, and completely hand wired. The memory consisted of lots of rows of hand wired ferrite cores.
I considered it such a privelege to be one of a handful of people allowed to actually hands-on poke around and examine such an important piece of computer history! Wish I had had a smart phone back then to take some pics…


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


I've seen pictures of the very unit you are talking about. I think that is the coolest part of computing, the start to it all. So much gets lost in the transition from inventor/initial business entrepreneur to corporate board run enterprise. At least you got to see it with your own eyes. Good for you.


----------



## arvanlaar

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


Nice video Paul  It felt like you were underwater in it haha! Like you, I am trying to get together a workshop and supplies on a shoestring budget so I really enjoy your series  It's hard being newlywed with a house and shop but no money haha!

I too work with computers. I am an SEO specialist as well as a front end developer with the back end guys for the life of them cannot figure out how to make things look nice 

Keep up the good work!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.





> Nice video Paul  It felt like you were underwater in it haha!


Heh. You're right. Well, it was either that or moving the camera as fast as my head moved around and that would make the strongest stomach turn from the motion. The optimal method would be to mount the camera on a tripod and take segments, stitching them together after editing. Someday. I enjoyed the fact that I made the ad hoc video. Before I get overly concerned about being a YT pro I need to get some actual work done.



> Like you, I am trying to get together a workshop and supplies on a shoestring budget so I really enjoy your series  It s hard being newlywed with a house and shop but no money haha!


Thank you. I'm glad my whining and often sarcastic optimism has given you something to relate to, if not avoid altogether. 

Being on a tight budget hits all ages and walks of life. You are at the beginning while I am closer to the back end. Our goals are the same: we want to be able to make stuff. The rest is minutiae that get in the way. 



> I too work with computers. I am an SEO specialist as well as a front end developer with the back end guys for the life of them cannot figure out how to make things look nice


I started working with computers in high school in 1973. Back then it was two Bell & Howell Teletypes (no monitors) and one IBM AS400. To play the game of monopoly, we had load up a fan-folded punch tape that lie within a wooden box similar to a small carpenter's tool box. It took 20 minutes to load the program. Our greatest achievement was to setup a terminal so that when someone turned it on it would spit out some profanity or wise-crack print top the new operator. From there it all started for me in '87 and hasn't stopped since. A lot of change.



> Keep up the good work!
> 
> - arvanlaar


Thanks arvanlar. Appreciate the words and encouragement. I hope you get to reach your goals. Take care of the better half. Behind every great person is a…


----------



## Kentuk55

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.


hahaha Ed. Yes, I was expecting some tunes from an old Frankenstein or Dracula movie.. Still a good production.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Milling 30 Year Old Maple Firefoood*
> 
> My first video from the Dungeon Workshop. All but the last annotation went M.I.A. I also shouldn't have allowed the editor to smoothen out the video. Did anyone besides myself get motion sickness from watching this? It sure sucks being a novice.





> hahaha Ed. Yes, I was expecting some tunes from an old Frankenstein or Dracula movie.. Still a good production.
> 
> - Roger


Heh-heh. I may end up making an entrance clip to the Dungeon movies with something that would make Bela Lugosi turn over in his grave with a smile.


----------



## retired_guru

*Soft-head Mallet*

*Soft-head Mallet*

I just finished making a soft-head mallet for the dungeon workshop. It was formed from the unholy mating of hemlock (the head) and a 30 year seasoned beech branch (the handle). No electricity was used in making this mallet and nothing alive was killed in the process. Hopefully, this will keep the townspeople from paying me a visit with torches in hand.

‪#‎woodworking‬ ‪#‎woodmallets‬


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Soft-head Mallet*
> 
> *Soft-head Mallet*
> 
> I just finished making a soft-head mallet for the dungeon workshop. It was formed from the unholy mating of hemlock (the head) and a 30 year seasoned beech branch (the handle). No electricity was used in making this mallet and nothing alive was killed in the process. Hopefully, this will keep the townspeople from paying me a visit with torches in hand.
> 
> ‪#‎woodworking‬ ‪#‎woodmallets‬


I just realized, in my desire pump up the dungeon theme I wasn't clear about the tools used in this construction. I did use a table saw, band saw and power sanders on this project. However, true to my words, nothing was electrocuted to bring it to life.

I feel so much better having made that clear.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Soft-head Mallet*
> 
> *Soft-head Mallet*
> 
> I just finished making a soft-head mallet for the dungeon workshop. It was formed from the unholy mating of hemlock (the head) and a 30 year seasoned beech branch (the handle). No electricity was used in making this mallet and nothing alive was killed in the process. Hopefully, this will keep the townspeople from paying me a visit with torches in hand.
> 
> ‪#‎woodworking‬ ‪#‎woodmallets‬


We are going to have to start calling you the *"Practical Woodworker"* LOL!!! Nice Job on the mallet.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Soft-head Mallet*
> 
> *Soft-head Mallet*
> 
> I just finished making a soft-head mallet for the dungeon workshop. It was formed from the unholy mating of hemlock (the head) and a 30 year seasoned beech branch (the handle). No electricity was used in making this mallet and nothing alive was killed in the process. Hopefully, this will keep the townspeople from paying me a visit with torches in hand.
> 
> ‪#‎woodworking‬ ‪#‎woodmallets‬





> We are going to have to start calling you the *"Practical Woodworker"* LOL!!! Nice Job on the mallet.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. Yeah, practical and pragmatic. I have become the willow that the wind bent the dickens out of.


----------



## retired_guru

*"Hard Maple Rocks!" Headphones Rack - Mounted*

In the My Projects section I posted the completion of a rustic headphones rack for my ancient audio-technica AT-703 headphones. Since that post I added another coat of Danish oil and a final finish of The Original Formula Johnson Paste Wax.

Here is what it looks like without the headphones:










...and with the headphones:










And here is a view of the main workstation area of the office, showing the rack in place:










This was a rewarding build, true to my scratch-building nature in scale modeling. Because this was build for Dominic Bender's The Challenge Tree challenge, I had to confine myself to the use of live edge wood and the piece I started with. Every bit of the design and construction, then, was dictated by what I could derive from the branch size firewood.

I have some small pieces left over, which I will use in the construction of a simple toy robot I am giving away on Google+. If I need more, there is plenty more hard maple firewood at Dad's place.


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## retired_guru

*DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*

I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.

I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.

The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.










The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.










The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.










Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.










Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.










The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.



















Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.

Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.

A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Nice set-up Paul. Are we going to see you on camera? When should we expect your first Emmy?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Thanks, Ed. No Emmy will be coming forth from this dungeon workshop. 

The last video I did (yesterday) is of me cleaning up the workshop area. The place is such a mess, and there is really no place to put the stuff laying around, that I decided no one needed to see me confused and befuddled while putting things away. By the third viewing I was bored, so I am imagine no one will get through it the first time without the same happening. 

I watch a lot of YT videos of my favorites. Some of them do a great job with silent productions, at most their hands and arms in the frames, letting the annotations present important information and the video itself tell the story. I probably will do this initially. The videos are a lot easier to edit and I can do voice overs if I want to talk through the process. Age and experience has taught me to work within my limitations instead of setting goals and procedures that match the best I could hope for. Also, I have some focus issues that have come with age and genetics. I wasn't happy with the way I presented myself on camera. I saw a tired old man. Watching yourself on video is like watching yourself though someone else's eyes. It can be disappointing.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Yeah…I've never won an Emmy either. But I did get to pose with one!










This photo is from back in 1983 when I worked for Ampex. They won an Emmy that year for a studio-grade digital effects machine. They brought the statue in and let everybody on the product team heft it and pose for a pic. I'm the tall geeky-looking bloke second from right….


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Tall, geeky-looking, and a handsome dude, as well. Not bad, Ed.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Paul,
to retain credibility with your on-a-shoestring philosophy,
I would expect you to come up with novel (and cheap) solutions 
to any film-related problems you encounter.
As to your physical suitability for starring roles…...I have no comment to make on that.
However, perhaps you could add a filter and do your videos in a Film-Noir style.
Woodworking in a Fedora, now there's an image to ponder.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.





> Paul,
> to retain credibility with your on-a-shoestring philosophy,
> I would expect you to come up with novel (and cheap) solutions
> to any film-related problems you encounter.


I hope I haven't misrepresented who I am and what my intent is. I am not poor. In winding down a business I don't have the cash flow that I used to have, therefore I have to make due with what I have. The Motorola docks, tripod, DROID phone…these are all a part of a past when I had that cash flow and the need.

In this project I used a three inch circle cut out of pallet wood (which cost me nothing), and four screws and one nut that came out of a set I bought about 25 years ago. Everything in this build is a scrounge of what I have laying around. Not one dollar bill was forfeited in this build, so I am not sure what you are referring to. Why would I want to create from scratch what I already have within my means to repurpose?



> As to your physical suitability for starring roles…...I have no comment to make on that.


Tongue-in-cheek? You are not familiar with me enough to know I make light of what I perceive to be my shortcomings. 



> However, perhaps you could add a filter and do your videos in a Film-Noir style.
> Woodworking in a Fedora, now there s an image to ponder.
> Cheers, Jinky (James).


I spent decades 'performing' to achieve financial goals. I have little interest in going back to that role. I just want to bring back the tinkerer and craftsman of long ago. Hopefully, it's not too late. It may come to where I won't want to bother with post-production investments and decide to limit videos to getting a point or procedure across. I don't need the money bad enough to blunder into what I can't support and have no talent for. So, we will see where this goes, James.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Paul, I think you should definitely go with the Fedora!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.





> Paul, I think you should definitely go with the Fedora!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Hmm. I always thought Fedoras and prominent Roman noses don't get along well. And how am I going to get my ear muffs and respirator over a Fedora?


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.


Paul,
my comments were wholly tongue-in-cheek with no slight intended upon your character,
or your endeavours.
It's just that my Scottish blood gets excited at the thought of money-saving exercises.
We Scots have a well known penchant for parsimony.
Cheers again.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *DROID X Vehicle Dock to Tripod Mount Conversion*
> 
> I have started down the path of video creation for YouTube, mostly so I can participate in build challenges, but possibly in time as another revenue stream for the business. Presently, my video recording hardware is minimal at best, quite ancient if I include my old Panasonic VHS-C camcorder.
> 
> I had hoped my 10 Megapixel Fujifilm S1500 would be able to handle my needs. It maxes out at 640×480 at 30 fps, which means 480p is about as good as it will get in YouTube. The best camera is in my DROID Ultra, not quite a year old, but it is my business phone. It can't be tied up with lengthy recording sessions. Next in line is my previous cell phone, a DROID X, which is capable of 720p at 24 fps. Additionally, I invested in several hands-free docks and mounts for it over the years. It was this point that lead me to attempt a dock-to-tripod conversion.
> 
> The first Motorola DROID X Vehicle Dock I purchased was right around the time I acquired the cell phone, the second only a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vivitar VPT-360SE uses a quick-release plate, allowing multiple camera mounts that snap in as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Motorola Dock comes with a round plastic plate that can be mounted to a flat surface, like the vehicle dash, via double-sided tape. I used that plate, sans adhesive mounting tape, as the liaison between tripod quick-release mount and the wood spacer that will be permanently attached to the swivel mount for the dock. Note the threaded center hole: I tapped an appropriately threaded nut into a slightly smaller hole in the wood spacer and drilled a small hole to allow for the tripod plate's spring loaded centering pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the conversion assembled and ready for tripod mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the photo/video taking end of the DROID X is at the back of the dock, I had to be sure that the swiveling mount elbow wouldn't be in the line of sight. Moving the mount about 20-30 degrees off center was enough to clear the recording path, as can be seen where the plastic base attaches to the wood spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion and camera ready to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the ball socket connection of the dock mount and the 3-dimensional tilt capability of the tripod, I have infinite possibilities for leveling, tilting and camera orientation. The dock has a power port. I plan on zip-tying a 5v DC power converter to one of the tripod legs, allowing for AC power via extension cord-I won't have to worry about the battery dying on me while recording lengthy events.
> 
> Prior to starting this project, I made a few short videos to make sure the phone was capable enough for my needs before. A Bluetooth earpiece should give me better sound quality and volume with the camera at a distance.
> 
> A simple project that temporarily takes a costly investment in a video camera out of the needs list.





> Paul,
> my comments were wholly tongue-in-cheek with no slight intended upon your character,
> or your endeavours.
> It s just that my Scottish blood gets excited at the thought of money-saving exercises.
> We Scots have a well known penchant for parsimony.
> Cheers again.
> 
> - jinkyjock


James, thank you *very* much for clarifying. I hadn't had my first mug of morning coffee and I wasn't quite sentient. I wasn't sure if you were being that way or snide. I'm so glad You were picking on me. I don't mind being picked on. It shows someone cares. 

But this Fedora thing…I don't know…


----------



## retired_guru

*Wine & Glasses Rack Finalized and Hung*

I finally got around to completing this prototype rack, one I started last fall-been a busy and troublesome winter so far. The wood used in this Wine & Glasses Rack is hemlock, the most commonly used pallet wood in my area. This a design I made up based on some others I have seen on the Web. Being a prototype, it has major and minor flaws, but I'm content with the premise behind the design and will make needed changes in the next build.

The finish is Danish oil, medium walnut color. Wall mount accomplished via French cleat.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Wine & Glasses Rack Finalized and Hung*
> 
> I finally got around to completing this prototype rack, one I started last fall-been a busy and troublesome winter so far. The wood used in this Wine & Glasses Rack is hemlock, the most commonly used pallet wood in my area. This a design I made up based on some others I have seen on the Web. Being a prototype, it has major and minor flaws, but I'm content with the premise behind the design and will make needed changes in the next build.
> 
> The finish is Danish oil, medium walnut color. Wall mount accomplished via French cleat.


Paul, your wine rack definitely has a very country flavor to it. I like it a lot!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Wine & Glasses Rack Finalized and Hung*
> 
> I finally got around to completing this prototype rack, one I started last fall-been a busy and troublesome winter so far. The wood used in this Wine & Glasses Rack is hemlock, the most commonly used pallet wood in my area. This a design I made up based on some others I have seen on the Web. Being a prototype, it has major and minor flaws, but I'm content with the premise behind the design and will make needed changes in the next build.
> 
> The finish is Danish oil, medium walnut color. Wall mount accomplished via French cleat.


Thanks, Lee. I'm glad you liked it. I have to get into some other projects now, but there are plans to revisit the concept and add/make changes that became obvious in the build. I also won't use hemlock again: not the proper wood for this kind of project. Nonetheless, I'm glad to have had the free wood to prototype with.


----------



## arvanlaar

retired_guru said:


> *Wine & Glasses Rack Finalized and Hung*
> 
> I finally got around to completing this prototype rack, one I started last fall-been a busy and troublesome winter so far. The wood used in this Wine & Glasses Rack is hemlock, the most commonly used pallet wood in my area. This a design I made up based on some others I have seen on the Web. Being a prototype, it has major and minor flaws, but I'm content with the premise behind the design and will make needed changes in the next build.
> 
> The finish is Danish oil, medium walnut color. Wall mount accomplished via French cleat.


wow… its so incredibly simple yet it works PERFECTLY on that wall! You did a fantastic job sir


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Wine & Glasses Rack Finalized and Hung*
> 
> I finally got around to completing this prototype rack, one I started last fall-been a busy and troublesome winter so far. The wood used in this Wine & Glasses Rack is hemlock, the most commonly used pallet wood in my area. This a design I made up based on some others I have seen on the Web. Being a prototype, it has major and minor flaws, but I'm content with the premise behind the design and will make needed changes in the next build.
> 
> The finish is Danish oil, medium walnut color. Wall mount accomplished via French cleat.





> wow… its so incredibly simple yet it works PERFECTLY on that wall! You did a fantastic job sir
> 
> - arvanlaar


Thank you! You are too kind.


----------



## retired_guru

*Fruit & Veggie Bin*

I decided to rough sketch the fruit and veggie bin I plan on making for a corner of the kitchen. Currently we are using a two-bin round steel thingie that works, but is too small for our needs. This will be about twice the height and wider than the steel unit in place. Exact dimensions will be determined when I get around to drafting up plans.

I have plenty of pallet wood and reclaimed lumber to make this with. The only change to the drawing I may still make is to replace the bottom bin slates with pegboard that slides into routed grooves in the side boards. From time to time fruit and veggies will rot at the bottom of the pile. If a bottom gets bad enough I would like to be able to easily replace them.

The wife likes the idea of the whole unit finished in the Danish oil that I used on the glass and wine rack I recently posted. I prefer painting with a gloss enamel to make cleaning easier and to speed up project time. Currently, the temperature in the dungeon workshop is to cold for a poly finish and I don't know if I can properly vent the fumes.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Fruit & Veggie Bin*
> 
> I decided to rough sketch the fruit and veggie bin I plan on making for a corner of the kitchen. Currently we are using a two-bin round steel thingie that works, but is too small for our needs. This will be about twice the height and wider than the steel unit in place. Exact dimensions will be determined when I get around to drafting up plans.
> 
> I have plenty of pallet wood and reclaimed lumber to make this with. The only change to the drawing I may still make is to replace the bottom bin slates with pegboard that slides into routed grooves in the side boards. From time to time fruit and veggies will rot at the bottom of the pile. If a bottom gets bad enough I would like to be able to easily replace them.
> 
> The wife likes the idea of the whole unit finished in the Danish oil that I used on the glass and wine rack I recently posted. I prefer painting with a gloss enamel to make cleaning easier and to speed up project time. Currently, the temperature in the dungeon workshop is to cold for a poly finish and I don't know if I can properly vent the fumes.


I like the sketch Paul. It looks like it will closely match the style of the wine rack you built.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Fruit & Veggie Bin*
> 
> I decided to rough sketch the fruit and veggie bin I plan on making for a corner of the kitchen. Currently we are using a two-bin round steel thingie that works, but is too small for our needs. This will be about twice the height and wider than the steel unit in place. Exact dimensions will be determined when I get around to drafting up plans.
> 
> I have plenty of pallet wood and reclaimed lumber to make this with. The only change to the drawing I may still make is to replace the bottom bin slates with pegboard that slides into routed grooves in the side boards. From time to time fruit and veggies will rot at the bottom of the pile. If a bottom gets bad enough I would like to be able to easily replace them.
> 
> The wife likes the idea of the whole unit finished in the Danish oil that I used on the glass and wine rack I recently posted. I prefer painting with a gloss enamel to make cleaning easier and to speed up project time. Currently, the temperature in the dungeon workshop is to cold for a poly finish and I don't know if I can properly vent the fumes.


Thanks, Lee.


----------



## arvanlaar

retired_guru said:


> *Fruit & Veggie Bin*
> 
> I decided to rough sketch the fruit and veggie bin I plan on making for a corner of the kitchen. Currently we are using a two-bin round steel thingie that works, but is too small for our needs. This will be about twice the height and wider than the steel unit in place. Exact dimensions will be determined when I get around to drafting up plans.
> 
> I have plenty of pallet wood and reclaimed lumber to make this with. The only change to the drawing I may still make is to replace the bottom bin slates with pegboard that slides into routed grooves in the side boards. From time to time fruit and veggies will rot at the bottom of the pile. If a bottom gets bad enough I would like to be able to easily replace them.
> 
> The wife likes the idea of the whole unit finished in the Danish oil that I used on the glass and wine rack I recently posted. I prefer painting with a gloss enamel to make cleaning easier and to speed up project time. Currently, the temperature in the dungeon workshop is to cold for a poly finish and I don't know if I can properly vent the fumes.


looks pretty neat Paul 

I wish we have more space between our kitchen cabinets and the counter so I could make one of these. It would be super handy thats for sure!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Fruit & Veggie Bin*
> 
> I decided to rough sketch the fruit and veggie bin I plan on making for a corner of the kitchen. Currently we are using a two-bin round steel thingie that works, but is too small for our needs. This will be about twice the height and wider than the steel unit in place. Exact dimensions will be determined when I get around to drafting up plans.
> 
> I have plenty of pallet wood and reclaimed lumber to make this with. The only change to the drawing I may still make is to replace the bottom bin slates with pegboard that slides into routed grooves in the side boards. From time to time fruit and veggies will rot at the bottom of the pile. If a bottom gets bad enough I would like to be able to easily replace them.
> 
> The wife likes the idea of the whole unit finished in the Danish oil that I used on the glass and wine rack I recently posted. I prefer painting with a gloss enamel to make cleaning easier and to speed up project time. Currently, the temperature in the dungeon workshop is to cold for a poly finish and I don't know if I can properly vent the fumes.





> looks pretty neat Paul
> 
> I wish we have more space between our kitchen cabinets and the counter so I could make one of these. It would be super handy thats for sure!
> 
> - arvanlaar


Thanks. Yeah, space limitations will always be the final say in many desired projects. Our kitchen is "L" shaped and not in the best of ways. We have this one little corner between two doorways off the kitchen that has been used for this purpose. I'm hoping this design will give us more vertical usage. We'll see. Consider making this smaller for your countertop.


----------



## retired_guru

*Outdoor Temperature Sensor Reading Fix - Part I*

Yesterday I started on a project that will (fingers and toes crossed) solve a a simple problem with a device not working as hoped for.

The device?
The ACU>RITE indoor/ourdoors wifi temperature sensor and electronic gauge.










The problem?
We have been using it on the unheated back porch, and because of heat loss from the house into the porch area the outdoor readings are skewed by quite a bit.

The answer?
Make and mount a wooden hanger on the outside wall of the back porch; make and suspend a weather resistant wooden container around the sensor so that neither heat from the house or sun's rays will affect readings of the true ambient temperature outdoors. Pallet wood used throughout.

Tomorrow I will be touching up and sanding the hanger and sensor box. I won't have the painting done, but will go ahead and post pictures of the unfinished answer.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor Temperature Sensor Reading Fix - Part I*
> 
> Yesterday I started on a project that will (fingers and toes crossed) solve a a simple problem with a device not working as hoped for.
> 
> The device?
> The ACU>RITE indoor/ourdoors wifi temperature sensor and electronic gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem?
> We have been using it on the unheated back porch, and because of heat loss from the house into the porch area the outdoor readings are skewed by quite a bit.
> 
> The answer?
> Make and mount a wooden hanger on the outside wall of the back porch; make and suspend a weather resistant wooden container around the sensor so that neither heat from the house or sun's rays will affect readings of the true ambient temperature outdoors. Pallet wood used throughout.
> 
> Tomorrow I will be touching up and sanding the hanger and sensor box. I won't have the painting done, but will go ahead and post pictures of the unfinished answer.


Sounds like a practical solution to me Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor Temperature Sensor Reading Fix - Part I*
> 
> Yesterday I started on a project that will (fingers and toes crossed) solve a a simple problem with a device not working as hoped for.
> 
> The device?
> The ACU>RITE indoor/ourdoors wifi temperature sensor and electronic gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem?
> We have been using it on the unheated back porch, and because of heat loss from the house into the porch area the outdoor readings are skewed by quite a bit.
> 
> The answer?
> Make and mount a wooden hanger on the outside wall of the back porch; make and suspend a weather resistant wooden container around the sensor so that neither heat from the house or sun's rays will affect readings of the true ambient temperature outdoors. Pallet wood used throughout.
> 
> Tomorrow I will be touching up and sanding the hanger and sensor box. I won't have the painting done, but will go ahead and post pictures of the unfinished answer.


Well, we'll see when this is done and mounted outdoors. Right now, I am looking for my red staple gun. It may be upstairs on the back porch. I can't wait until I can get all my tools neatly organized in one place! At any rate, I'm almost ready for painting. Should have pre-paint pics up later today.


----------



## retired_guru

*Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 1)*

I posted in my previous blog entry the need to create a weather protected housing and mount for the ACU>RITE sensor, which will track outdoor ambient temperatures and transmit wirelessly to the indoor digital display. Previously we had it mounted on the enclosed porch inner wall. The temperature skew due to heat loss into the porch was tremendous, making the unit useless for our need.

Because I didn't go into the project with a clear idea of what it would end up looking like, as adjustment have been made in function, so has the design been altered 'ad hoc' to meet the changes. This makes for both frustrating an fortuitous results.

The following pictures show the build process in snapshots, then jumps to the final, unfinished result. The wood used, with the exception of the wooden drawer knob, is milled hemlock from pallets. All wood surfaces (including inside the box) will be painted with an exterior semi-gloss white latex enamel. The brass colored railing bracket will be sanded, primed and sprayed with a white enamel, then finished off with several coats of spray poly. The notion with using white is to minimize soaking up heat from direct sunlight.

Here is the sensor that will go into the box:










The fours sides of the sensor box were cut to identical dimensions:










On two opposing sides, I drilled holes and chiseled out a mortise to receive the hanger pin that will suspend the senor so it doesn't touch any of the sides of the box:










To create a square box, I staggered the butt joints all around. Small nails were used to align and secure the glued joints while assembling:










I didn't worry about the unfinished edges. These would come off on the bench sander later on:










The sensor box is glued, nailed and assembled. Starting to clamp together:










Never can have too many clamps:










This is how the sensor will be suspended within the box:










Next, the top…beginning to look like an outhouse:










From here on, the unpainted finished sensor box and bracket:

The box is tall enough to clear the top and bottom ends of the sensor by a little less than an inch. Originally, I had planned on having the box suspended by chain from beneath the top of the wall bracket. It occurred to me that the wind would bash this against the bracket, so I spent a lot of time in Lowe's looking for a solid mount solution between the box and bracket. Unfortunately, the railing bracket only came in brass colored chrome plating. I will sand and paint later on:










The only difference here is the sensor pin is inserted into the box slots:










A view from the the other side. By the way, the staple gouges you see in the triangular braces will be filled in with wood putty and sanded smooth before painting:










Next to the sensor is the plastic screen that will be placed between the open end of the bottom of the sensor box and the bottom vent plate. This will (hopefully) keep spiders from spinning webs or bees/wasps from making nests within the box. Before I can staple the screen to the inside of the bottom plate, I have to paint the plate. Also, the zip-tie will be used to keep the sensor pin from coming out on its own-like a cotter pin, if you will:



















The back side of the unit. I mounted the horizontal bracket support to the back mount plate via mortise and tenon. I wish I had the higher grit stones to sharpen my chisels…a gripe for another day:










Here you can see the pull end of the sensor pin. The other end has a hole to insert a small zip-tie through:










The sensor pin out:










When I brought this upstairs to show the wife, she went into a laughing fit. Needless to say, I was miffed. When she settled down, she explained that she wasn't laughing 'at' the work I had done, but that she had only seen the small box before and thought that was all it would be. We have plans to move in the near future. She said when we do, this is coming along with us. I guess that means she likes it.

Once this is painted and ready to mount, I'll take some pics and post it in the completed projects area.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 1)*
> 
> I posted in my previous blog entry the need to create a weather protected housing and mount for the ACU>RITE sensor, which will track outdoor ambient temperatures and transmit wirelessly to the indoor digital display. Previously we had it mounted on the enclosed porch inner wall. The temperature skew due to heat loss into the porch was tremendous, making the unit useless for our need.
> 
> Because I didn't go into the project with a clear idea of what it would end up looking like, as adjustment have been made in function, so has the design been altered 'ad hoc' to meet the changes. This makes for both frustrating an fortuitous results.
> 
> The following pictures show the build process in snapshots, then jumps to the final, unfinished result. The wood used, with the exception of the wooden drawer knob, is milled hemlock from pallets. All wood surfaces (including inside the box) will be painted with an exterior semi-gloss white latex enamel. The brass colored railing bracket will be sanded, primed and sprayed with a white enamel, then finished off with several coats of spray poly. The notion with using white is to minimize soaking up heat from direct sunlight.
> 
> Here is the sensor that will go into the box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fours sides of the sensor box were cut to identical dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On two opposing sides, I drilled holes and chiseled out a mortise to receive the hanger pin that will suspend the senor so it doesn't touch any of the sides of the box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To create a square box, I staggered the butt joints all around. Small nails were used to align and secure the glued joints while assembling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't worry about the unfinished edges. These would come off on the bench sander later on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sensor box is glued, nailed and assembled. Starting to clamp together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never can have too many clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the sensor will be suspended within the box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, the top…beginning to look like an outhouse:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From here on, the unpainted finished sensor box and bracket:
> 
> The box is tall enough to clear the top and bottom ends of the sensor by a little less than an inch. Originally, I had planned on having the box suspended by chain from beneath the top of the wall bracket. It occurred to me that the wind would bash this against the bracket, so I spent a lot of time in Lowe's looking for a solid mount solution between the box and bracket. Unfortunately, the railing bracket only came in brass colored chrome plating. I will sand and paint later on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only difference here is the sensor pin is inserted into the box slots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A view from the the other side. By the way, the staple gouges you see in the triangular braces will be filled in with wood putty and sanded smooth before painting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to the sensor is the plastic screen that will be placed between the open end of the bottom of the sensor box and the bottom vent plate. This will (hopefully) keep spiders from spinning webs or bees/wasps from making nests within the box. Before I can staple the screen to the inside of the bottom plate, I have to paint the plate. Also, the zip-tie will be used to keep the sensor pin from coming out on its own-like a cotter pin, if you will:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back side of the unit. I mounted the horizontal bracket support to the back mount plate via mortise and tenon. I wish I had the higher grit stones to sharpen my chisels…a gripe for another day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the pull end of the sensor pin. The other end has a hole to insert a small zip-tie through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sensor pin out:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I brought this upstairs to show the wife, she went into a laughing fit. Needless to say, I was miffed. When she settled down, she explained that she wasn't laughing 'at' the work I had done, but that she had only seen the small box before and thought that was all it would be. We have plans to move in the near future. She said when we do, this is coming along with us. I guess that means she likes it.
> 
> Once this is painted and ready to mount, I'll take some pics and post it in the completed projects area.


What a creative solution Paul, not only are you a woodworker but you are also an artist.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 1)*
> 
> I posted in my previous blog entry the need to create a weather protected housing and mount for the ACU>RITE sensor, which will track outdoor ambient temperatures and transmit wirelessly to the indoor digital display. Previously we had it mounted on the enclosed porch inner wall. The temperature skew due to heat loss into the porch was tremendous, making the unit useless for our need.
> 
> Because I didn't go into the project with a clear idea of what it would end up looking like, as adjustment have been made in function, so has the design been altered 'ad hoc' to meet the changes. This makes for both frustrating an fortuitous results.
> 
> The following pictures show the build process in snapshots, then jumps to the final, unfinished result. The wood used, with the exception of the wooden drawer knob, is milled hemlock from pallets. All wood surfaces (including inside the box) will be painted with an exterior semi-gloss white latex enamel. The brass colored railing bracket will be sanded, primed and sprayed with a white enamel, then finished off with several coats of spray poly. The notion with using white is to minimize soaking up heat from direct sunlight.
> 
> Here is the sensor that will go into the box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fours sides of the sensor box were cut to identical dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On two opposing sides, I drilled holes and chiseled out a mortise to receive the hanger pin that will suspend the senor so it doesn't touch any of the sides of the box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To create a square box, I staggered the butt joints all around. Small nails were used to align and secure the glued joints while assembling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't worry about the unfinished edges. These would come off on the bench sander later on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sensor box is glued, nailed and assembled. Starting to clamp together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never can have too many clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the sensor will be suspended within the box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, the top…beginning to look like an outhouse:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From here on, the unpainted finished sensor box and bracket:
> 
> The box is tall enough to clear the top and bottom ends of the sensor by a little less than an inch. Originally, I had planned on having the box suspended by chain from beneath the top of the wall bracket. It occurred to me that the wind would bash this against the bracket, so I spent a lot of time in Lowe's looking for a solid mount solution between the box and bracket. Unfortunately, the railing bracket only came in brass colored chrome plating. I will sand and paint later on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only difference here is the sensor pin is inserted into the box slots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A view from the the other side. By the way, the staple gouges you see in the triangular braces will be filled in with wood putty and sanded smooth before painting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to the sensor is the plastic screen that will be placed between the open end of the bottom of the sensor box and the bottom vent plate. This will (hopefully) keep spiders from spinning webs or bees/wasps from making nests within the box. Before I can staple the screen to the inside of the bottom plate, I have to paint the plate. Also, the zip-tie will be used to keep the sensor pin from coming out on its own-like a cotter pin, if you will:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back side of the unit. I mounted the horizontal bracket support to the back mount plate via mortise and tenon. I wish I had the higher grit stones to sharpen my chisels…a gripe for another day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the pull end of the sensor pin. The other end has a hole to insert a small zip-tie through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sensor pin out:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I brought this upstairs to show the wife, she went into a laughing fit. Needless to say, I was miffed. When she settled down, she explained that she wasn't laughing 'at' the work I had done, but that she had only seen the small box before and thought that was all it would be. We have plans to move in the near future. She said when we do, this is coming along with us. I guess that means she likes it.
> 
> Once this is painted and ready to mount, I'll take some pics and post it in the completed projects area.





> What a creative solution Paul, not only are you a woodworker but you are also an artist.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, but you are way too kind. I feel like I should tip you or something. 

Next post (Part II) will be out in a few minutes. It has a design update and new pics.


----------



## retired_guru

*Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*

It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.

The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.










I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:










The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:










Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:










The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.










The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.

The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.


Hey Paul, your design could easily become an awesome bird house with a little modification. Just sayin .


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.





> Hey Paul, your design could easily become an awesome bird house with a little modification. Just sayin .
> 
> - luv2learn


Heh-heh. That notion did not escape me.


----------



## Mean_Dean

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.


Dang, I wish I'd seen this blog series earlier….....

I actually have the same problem as you, with my outdoor temperature sensor. So I did quite a bit of research-and this is the part you're not going to like…...!

What I found was that the sensor needs to be inside what's called a "radiation shield." In other words, a shield from radiation, namely solar radiation, and thermal radiation. Sunlight, and air temperature. The shield should be made of a very thin material, mostly aluminum, to minimize heat build-up within the shield. It should have as many ventilation slots as possible to allow outside air into it. And it should have a fan mounted at the top, to draw in outside air.

It's very important that the temperature of the air inside the shield be exactly the same as the air outside.

The shields that I have seen look like rockets, with a conical top to shed water, horizontal ventilation slots around the outside, and an open bottom. Also, the better ones have a solar-powered fan mounted on the top to draw in outside air.

I wish I had seen your blog series earlier to mention all this, before you built your shield.

Anyway, I thought I'd pass this info along anyway, in case you decide to build another one, or retrofit this one!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.





> Dang, I wish I d seen this blog series earlier….....
> 
> I actually have the same problem as you, with my outdoor temperature sensor. So I did quite a bit of research-and this is the part you re not going to like…...!
> 
> What I found was that the sensor needs to be inside what s called a "radiation shield." In other words, a shield from radiation, namely solar radiation, and thermal radiation. Sunlight, and air temperature. The shield should be made of a very thin material, mostly aluminum, to minimize heat build-up within the shield. It should have as many ventilation slots as possible to allow outside air into it. And it should have a fan mounted at the top, to draw in outside air.
> 
> It s very important that the temperature of the air inside the shield be exactly the same as the air outside.
> 
> The shields that I have seen look like rockets, with a conical top to shed water, horizontal ventilation slots around the outside, and an open bottom. Also, the better ones have a solar-powered fan mounted on the top to draw in outside air.
> 
> I wish I had seen your blog series earlier to mention all this, before you built your shield.
> 
> Anyway, I thought I d pass this info along anyway, in case you decide to build another one, or retrofit this one!
> 
> - Mean_Dean


Hah-hah. Just my luck, Dean. Ah well, I've come this far, I will finish it and see how my readings are compared to the reality outdoors. I have $5.00 invested in the metal bracket and whatever I used up in the $13.00 can of paint. The rest was lying around or free. Thanks for letting me know. Appreciated.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.


Paul,
This is good stuff.

You and I pretty much go down the same path - tinkering with stuff that combines electro-mechanical with woodworking!

Nice project!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.





> Paul,
> This is good stuff.
> 
> You and I pretty much go down the same path - tinkering with stuff that combines electro-mechanical with woodworking!
> 
> Nice project!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. I appreciate the comparison and compliment. My tinkerer nature is working its way out of deep storage. I've never had any doubts about my abilities or desire. Tinkering is what I live for. Everything else is second place. 

With the disappointing update from Mean_Dean , I can only hope the sensor reads something close to the real ambient temperature when in the sun. Outside of that, it shouldn't be too far off. Worse come to worse, I can drill a hole in the front and made it a bird house for finches.


----------



## Mean_Dean

retired_guru said:


> *Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Part 2)*
> 
> It was never my intent to make this build into an attractive build. Functional is the priority. It is the only reason for going through all this work for a $10.00 item. But it's not unusual for my build ideas to become runaway trains, sometimes with no way to stop safely (enter the music of *Jethro Tull*'s Locomotive Breath.) My intent was to make this a 100% free pallet wood build. I have brand new pine boards and studs I could have used. With a change in design-swinging sensor box to one stationary-I needed to come up with a different mount option without scrapping the wall bracket I made. The brass colored hand rail bracket was all that I could find at our local Lowe's. Now, I am glad I went with it. The sensor box can be pivoted to change the angle in relation to the sun and weather. Serendipitous.
> 
> The glass drawer knob I used to hide the hole that was to accept a screw eye and chain was not to my liking. It was gaudy. I was concerned that the glass will act as a prism and concentrate heat fom the sun's rays into the top of the box. The metal base is one more thing to possible rust or corrode. And I realized I forgot to add vent holes in the top, as I had originally planned. The solution was a squared section of hemlock with slots cut from it, eventually all leading to the hole in the top of the box. I hope the slots, only the width of a table saw blade kerf, won't attract insects to infiltrate for rest or nest. It looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that a gallon of Titebond III is full of itself. I couldn't find anything heavier that wouldn't crush the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new look. Better, right? Functional, I think:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to begin painting. Because I mistakenly (as in, so deep in the forest I no longer saw the trees) missed the fact that I used the wrong glue (The Original Formula Titebond) for the construction of the sensor box, I'm hoping that a couple of coats of latex bin primer will protect the glue joints from moisture. The rest of the construction, including the top vent cap and side reinforcement for the metal bracket, were glued up with the Titebond III. Here is the inside of the box with its first coat of primer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quart can in the background is the semi-gloss outdoor enamel I bought yesterday to use for the final painted wood finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall bracket and sensor box have a complete coat of primer. The wooden knob and bottom vent cover are only primed on the side you can see. The sensor pin needs to have the handle primed, as well. Later on I will mount the metal bracket to a scrap board I can clamp to the table, then I will take a wire wheel to it to bring it down to either bare metal or a dull matte finish. I still have gloss white spray enamel and spray poly from the bathroom project a couple of years ago. I will use both on the bracket.
> 
> The next blog entry will be the finale…I hope.


Paul,

What you could do, is get a coffee can and cut horizontal slots in it around the perimeter. When you cut the slots, fold the flap up, to maintain the shading. After cutting the slots, paint it glossy white.

Next, get a small solar-powered fan, and install it on the top, to draw in outside air.

Lastly, you can get a 10-foot section of galvanized conduit, and put it in the ground in any open area. The temperature sensor needs to be at least 6 feet off the ground, so the 10-foot conduit gives you that, with 2-3 feet of length to put in the ground.

So for about $20 or so, you'll have a very accurate temperature sensor!


----------



## retired_guru

*Outdoor ACU>RITE Digital Wireless Temperature Sensor Housing (Finale)*

Finally finished and mounted on the outside wall of the back enclosed porch. I neglected to get a completed assembly picture before mounting, so please check out the previous two parts in my blog for a complete overview.

The final three pictures:
- Insertion of the wireless sensor into the box. Note the wooden sensor pin.










- The bottom vent plate installed.










- Wall mount bracket drilled for mounting bolts and fender washers.










How well is it working? It's now in direct evening sun and since installing over an hour ago is dead-on with what nearby weather stations are broadcasting.

My work is done. Next project…


----------



## retired_guru

*Beefing Up A HF Windsor-Style Workbench*

Keeping within the budget and guidelines of my frugal perspective, I opted to take a chance by purchasing a Harbor Freight Windsor-style Workbench last weekend. Over the past two days I have been working on its assembly and beefing it up to meet my needs in the dungeon workshop.

I'm sure many serious woodworkers would frown upon my choice, even call me some unsavory things for choosing to go this route. I didn't go this route because I thought it was an optimum or preferred choice. It was the practical, achievable one. I had my birthday last week and my father was uncharacteristically generous in acknowledging it. The wife and I planned to travel to a large city South of us to spend the day shopping and eating at one of our favorite family restaurants. I had planned on stopping at the Harbor Freight store because at over an hour away from home, I don't get to visit the place very often. The workbench was on sale. With a crisp new hundred dollar bill in my pocket (thank you, Dad!) it made sense to pick one up for what would ultimately become an ~ $79.00 USD buy. The dimensions were perfect for my workshop: I needed one narrow and not too long. Two other criteria made this the best choice for now: price (with the price of lumber in my area, I couldn't build this for less than three times the price I paid for it) and weight. Oh yeah, you heard me: weight. We are contemplating a move some time either late this year or the next. No way do I want to tackle carrying a 300-400 pound Roubo-style workbench up the old stone steps of the dungeon entrance. In the beefing up process, I made sure to allow for disassembly of the legs from the bench top, and both units will be manageable by myself or with a little help.

I have no idea what hardwood the bench is made of. I used pine boards and quality dimensional fir. Here is the bench assembled from instructions, to the point where I needed to start the strengthening process. What's missing from the original build design are the side braces with tracks, the center brace with tracks, and the four shelves that would fit underneath the top:










I purchased a vice from our local Lowe's a couple of years ago. This was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into the bench. It's obvious in the picture that the thin top and sides can't handle the vice without help. Two-bys were run crosswise and a thin hard maple shim was used between them and the vice to insure it wouldn't dig into the softer wood in use. Polyurethane construction glue was used to to attach the two-bys to the top and sides, and the maple shim to the fir. Four #14-3" wood screws attach the two fir boards to the sides behind the vice. This will be obvious in the backside view:










The fir rail support installed on front side:










The fir rail support installed on back side. Note the larger, longer screws on the left side of the picture. These secure to the crosswise braces to the front and back rails:










Front and back rails supports are screwed into the legs. On the vice side, only the back rail support is attached:










Rail support attachments to the legs:










Three-quarter view of the leg bracing boards attached:










View from the other end:










Back side of completed bench upgrade:










Front view:










You are probably wondering how flat the top is after all the bracing I have done. It's off a little, in spots. Right now it's not important to resolve. Once I get the benches and equipment reorganized, I will come back to this and do some careful planing/sanding. It really isn't bad.

Before turning off the lights for the night, I did some edge planing in the black vice. Nice. The bench didn't budge or rock. 

Next project: putting up walls in the dungeon using pallets!


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Beefing Up A HF Windsor-Style Workbench*
> 
> Keeping within the budget and guidelines of my frugal perspective, I opted to take a chance by purchasing a Harbor Freight Windsor-style Workbench last weekend. Over the past two days I have been working on its assembly and beefing it up to meet my needs in the dungeon workshop.
> 
> I'm sure many serious woodworkers would frown upon my choice, even call me some unsavory things for choosing to go this route. I didn't go this route because I thought it was an optimum or preferred choice. It was the practical, achievable one. I had my birthday last week and my father was uncharacteristically generous in acknowledging it. The wife and I planned to travel to a large city South of us to spend the day shopping and eating at one of our favorite family restaurants. I had planned on stopping at the Harbor Freight store because at over an hour away from home, I don't get to visit the place very often. The workbench was on sale. With a crisp new hundred dollar bill in my pocket (thank you, Dad!) it made sense to pick one up for what would ultimately become an ~ $79.00 USD buy. The dimensions were perfect for my workshop: I needed one narrow and not too long. Two other criteria made this the best choice for now: price (with the price of lumber in my area, I couldn't build this for less than three times the price I paid for it) and weight. Oh yeah, you heard me: weight. We are contemplating a move some time either late this year or the next. No way do I want to tackle carrying a 300-400 pound Roubo-style workbench up the old stone steps of the dungeon entrance. In the beefing up process, I made sure to allow for disassembly of the legs from the bench top, and both units will be manageable by myself or with a little help.
> 
> I have no idea what hardwood the bench is made of. I used pine boards and quality dimensional fir. Here is the bench assembled from instructions, to the point where I needed to start the strengthening process. What's missing from the original build design are the side braces with tracks, the center brace with tracks, and the four shelves that would fit underneath the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a vice from our local Lowe's a couple of years ago. This was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into the bench. It's obvious in the picture that the thin top and sides can't handle the vice without help. Two-bys were run crosswise and a thin hard maple shim was used between them and the vice to insure it wouldn't dig into the softer wood in use. Polyurethane construction glue was used to to attach the two-bys to the top and sides, and the maple shim to the fir. Four #14-3" wood screws attach the two fir boards to the sides behind the vice. This will be obvious in the backside view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on front side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on back side. Note the larger, longer screws on the left side of the picture. These secure to the crosswise braces to the front and back rails:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and back rails supports are screwed into the legs. On the vice side, only the back rail support is attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rail support attachments to the legs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three-quarter view of the leg bracing boards attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from the other end:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of completed bench upgrade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably wondering how flat the top is after all the bracing I have done. It's off a little, in spots. Right now it's not important to resolve. Once I get the benches and equipment reorganized, I will come back to this and do some careful planing/sanding. It really isn't bad.
> 
> Before turning off the lights for the night, I did some edge planing in the black vice. Nice. The bench didn't budge or rock.
> 
> Next project: putting up walls in the dungeon using pallets!


Paul, no need to apologize for shopping at Harbor Freight. For many of us woodworking hobbiest that is our favorite store. I was one happy guy when a Harbor Freight opened in our town. The bench with your modifications ought to serve you well.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Beefing Up A HF Windsor-Style Workbench*
> 
> Keeping within the budget and guidelines of my frugal perspective, I opted to take a chance by purchasing a Harbor Freight Windsor-style Workbench last weekend. Over the past two days I have been working on its assembly and beefing it up to meet my needs in the dungeon workshop.
> 
> I'm sure many serious woodworkers would frown upon my choice, even call me some unsavory things for choosing to go this route. I didn't go this route because I thought it was an optimum or preferred choice. It was the practical, achievable one. I had my birthday last week and my father was uncharacteristically generous in acknowledging it. The wife and I planned to travel to a large city South of us to spend the day shopping and eating at one of our favorite family restaurants. I had planned on stopping at the Harbor Freight store because at over an hour away from home, I don't get to visit the place very often. The workbench was on sale. With a crisp new hundred dollar bill in my pocket (thank you, Dad!) it made sense to pick one up for what would ultimately become an ~ $79.00 USD buy. The dimensions were perfect for my workshop: I needed one narrow and not too long. Two other criteria made this the best choice for now: price (with the price of lumber in my area, I couldn't build this for less than three times the price I paid for it) and weight. Oh yeah, you heard me: weight. We are contemplating a move some time either late this year or the next. No way do I want to tackle carrying a 300-400 pound Roubo-style workbench up the old stone steps of the dungeon entrance. In the beefing up process, I made sure to allow for disassembly of the legs from the bench top, and both units will be manageable by myself or with a little help.
> 
> I have no idea what hardwood the bench is made of. I used pine boards and quality dimensional fir. Here is the bench assembled from instructions, to the point where I needed to start the strengthening process. What's missing from the original build design are the side braces with tracks, the center brace with tracks, and the four shelves that would fit underneath the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a vice from our local Lowe's a couple of years ago. This was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into the bench. It's obvious in the picture that the thin top and sides can't handle the vice without help. Two-bys were run crosswise and a thin hard maple shim was used between them and the vice to insure it wouldn't dig into the softer wood in use. Polyurethane construction glue was used to to attach the two-bys to the top and sides, and the maple shim to the fir. Four #14-3" wood screws attach the two fir boards to the sides behind the vice. This will be obvious in the backside view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on front side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on back side. Note the larger, longer screws on the left side of the picture. These secure to the crosswise braces to the front and back rails:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and back rails supports are screwed into the legs. On the vice side, only the back rail support is attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rail support attachments to the legs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three-quarter view of the leg bracing boards attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from the other end:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of completed bench upgrade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably wondering how flat the top is after all the bracing I have done. It's off a little, in spots. Right now it's not important to resolve. Once I get the benches and equipment reorganized, I will come back to this and do some careful planing/sanding. It really isn't bad.
> 
> Before turning off the lights for the night, I did some edge planing in the black vice. Nice. The bench didn't budge or rock.
> 
> Next project: putting up walls in the dungeon using pallets!


If I could be so lucky as to have a Harbor Freight in my little city, they would be my candy store, Lee. 

Time will tell how well the bench works out for me. This, and the modified desk-turned-bench conversion I assembled this on, will make it possible for me to work on larger projects. The dungeon workshop is slowly coming together.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Beefing Up A HF Windsor-Style Workbench*
> 
> Keeping within the budget and guidelines of my frugal perspective, I opted to take a chance by purchasing a Harbor Freight Windsor-style Workbench last weekend. Over the past two days I have been working on its assembly and beefing it up to meet my needs in the dungeon workshop.
> 
> I'm sure many serious woodworkers would frown upon my choice, even call me some unsavory things for choosing to go this route. I didn't go this route because I thought it was an optimum or preferred choice. It was the practical, achievable one. I had my birthday last week and my father was uncharacteristically generous in acknowledging it. The wife and I planned to travel to a large city South of us to spend the day shopping and eating at one of our favorite family restaurants. I had planned on stopping at the Harbor Freight store because at over an hour away from home, I don't get to visit the place very often. The workbench was on sale. With a crisp new hundred dollar bill in my pocket (thank you, Dad!) it made sense to pick one up for what would ultimately become an ~ $79.00 USD buy. The dimensions were perfect for my workshop: I needed one narrow and not too long. Two other criteria made this the best choice for now: price (with the price of lumber in my area, I couldn't build this for less than three times the price I paid for it) and weight. Oh yeah, you heard me: weight. We are contemplating a move some time either late this year or the next. No way do I want to tackle carrying a 300-400 pound Roubo-style workbench up the old stone steps of the dungeon entrance. In the beefing up process, I made sure to allow for disassembly of the legs from the bench top, and both units will be manageable by myself or with a little help.
> 
> I have no idea what hardwood the bench is made of. I used pine boards and quality dimensional fir. Here is the bench assembled from instructions, to the point where I needed to start the strengthening process. What's missing from the original build design are the side braces with tracks, the center brace with tracks, and the four shelves that would fit underneath the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a vice from our local Lowe's a couple of years ago. This was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into the bench. It's obvious in the picture that the thin top and sides can't handle the vice without help. Two-bys were run crosswise and a thin hard maple shim was used between them and the vice to insure it wouldn't dig into the softer wood in use. Polyurethane construction glue was used to to attach the two-bys to the top and sides, and the maple shim to the fir. Four #14-3" wood screws attach the two fir boards to the sides behind the vice. This will be obvious in the backside view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on front side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on back side. Note the larger, longer screws on the left side of the picture. These secure to the crosswise braces to the front and back rails:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and back rails supports are screwed into the legs. On the vice side, only the back rail support is attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rail support attachments to the legs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three-quarter view of the leg bracing boards attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from the other end:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of completed bench upgrade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably wondering how flat the top is after all the bracing I have done. It's off a little, in spots. Right now it's not important to resolve. Once I get the benches and equipment reorganized, I will come back to this and do some careful planing/sanding. It really isn't bad.
> 
> Before turning off the lights for the night, I did some edge planing in the black vice. Nice. The bench didn't budge or rock.
> 
> Next project: putting up walls in the dungeon using pallets!


Hey, Paul,
No shame in shopping at Harbor Fright. I pop in there myself once't in a while to see what's new.
This looks like it will be a very servicable workbench!
Heck, my bench is all made out of scrounged construction site lumber with an old solid core door for a top. Works fine for me and the price was right!
Have fun!


----------



## davidroberts

retired_guru said:


> *Beefing Up A HF Windsor-Style Workbench*
> 
> Keeping within the budget and guidelines of my frugal perspective, I opted to take a chance by purchasing a Harbor Freight Windsor-style Workbench last weekend. Over the past two days I have been working on its assembly and beefing it up to meet my needs in the dungeon workshop.
> 
> I'm sure many serious woodworkers would frown upon my choice, even call me some unsavory things for choosing to go this route. I didn't go this route because I thought it was an optimum or preferred choice. It was the practical, achievable one. I had my birthday last week and my father was uncharacteristically generous in acknowledging it. The wife and I planned to travel to a large city South of us to spend the day shopping and eating at one of our favorite family restaurants. I had planned on stopping at the Harbor Freight store because at over an hour away from home, I don't get to visit the place very often. The workbench was on sale. With a crisp new hundred dollar bill in my pocket (thank you, Dad!) it made sense to pick one up for what would ultimately become an ~ $79.00 USD buy. The dimensions were perfect for my workshop: I needed one narrow and not too long. Two other criteria made this the best choice for now: price (with the price of lumber in my area, I couldn't build this for less than three times the price I paid for it) and weight. Oh yeah, you heard me: weight. We are contemplating a move some time either late this year or the next. No way do I want to tackle carrying a 300-400 pound Roubo-style workbench up the old stone steps of the dungeon entrance. In the beefing up process, I made sure to allow for disassembly of the legs from the bench top, and both units will be manageable by myself or with a little help.
> 
> I have no idea what hardwood the bench is made of. I used pine boards and quality dimensional fir. Here is the bench assembled from instructions, to the point where I needed to start the strengthening process. What's missing from the original build design are the side braces with tracks, the center brace with tracks, and the four shelves that would fit underneath the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a vice from our local Lowe's a couple of years ago. This was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into the bench. It's obvious in the picture that the thin top and sides can't handle the vice without help. Two-bys were run crosswise and a thin hard maple shim was used between them and the vice to insure it wouldn't dig into the softer wood in use. Polyurethane construction glue was used to to attach the two-bys to the top and sides, and the maple shim to the fir. Four #14-3" wood screws attach the two fir boards to the sides behind the vice. This will be obvious in the backside view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on front side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on back side. Note the larger, longer screws on the left side of the picture. These secure to the crosswise braces to the front and back rails:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and back rails supports are screwed into the legs. On the vice side, only the back rail support is attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rail support attachments to the legs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three-quarter view of the leg bracing boards attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from the other end:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of completed bench upgrade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably wondering how flat the top is after all the bracing I have done. It's off a little, in spots. Right now it's not important to resolve. Once I get the benches and equipment reorganized, I will come back to this and do some careful planing/sanding. It really isn't bad.
> 
> Before turning off the lights for the night, I did some edge planing in the black vice. Nice. The bench didn't budge or rock.
> 
> Next project: putting up walls in the dungeon using pallets!


I bought a HR bench at a divorce, er garage sale for $40, assembled and unused. Hard to pass up. Using at the moment for storage but would like to beef it up. Not a bad bench for the price, and respectable when on sale at HF. My HF brad nailer outlasted a Porter Cable. There are some diamonds in that pile of coal.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Beefing Up A HF Windsor-Style Workbench*
> 
> Keeping within the budget and guidelines of my frugal perspective, I opted to take a chance by purchasing a Harbor Freight Windsor-style Workbench last weekend. Over the past two days I have been working on its assembly and beefing it up to meet my needs in the dungeon workshop.
> 
> I'm sure many serious woodworkers would frown upon my choice, even call me some unsavory things for choosing to go this route. I didn't go this route because I thought it was an optimum or preferred choice. It was the practical, achievable one. I had my birthday last week and my father was uncharacteristically generous in acknowledging it. The wife and I planned to travel to a large city South of us to spend the day shopping and eating at one of our favorite family restaurants. I had planned on stopping at the Harbor Freight store because at over an hour away from home, I don't get to visit the place very often. The workbench was on sale. With a crisp new hundred dollar bill in my pocket (thank you, Dad!) it made sense to pick one up for what would ultimately become an ~ $79.00 USD buy. The dimensions were perfect for my workshop: I needed one narrow and not too long. Two other criteria made this the best choice for now: price (with the price of lumber in my area, I couldn't build this for less than three times the price I paid for it) and weight. Oh yeah, you heard me: weight. We are contemplating a move some time either late this year or the next. No way do I want to tackle carrying a 300-400 pound Roubo-style workbench up the old stone steps of the dungeon entrance. In the beefing up process, I made sure to allow for disassembly of the legs from the bench top, and both units will be manageable by myself or with a little help.
> 
> I have no idea what hardwood the bench is made of. I used pine boards and quality dimensional fir. Here is the bench assembled from instructions, to the point where I needed to start the strengthening process. What's missing from the original build design are the side braces with tracks, the center brace with tracks, and the four shelves that would fit underneath the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a vice from our local Lowe's a couple of years ago. This was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into the bench. It's obvious in the picture that the thin top and sides can't handle the vice without help. Two-bys were run crosswise and a thin hard maple shim was used between them and the vice to insure it wouldn't dig into the softer wood in use. Polyurethane construction glue was used to to attach the two-bys to the top and sides, and the maple shim to the fir. Four #14-3" wood screws attach the two fir boards to the sides behind the vice. This will be obvious in the backside view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on front side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fir rail support installed on back side. Note the larger, longer screws on the left side of the picture. These secure to the crosswise braces to the front and back rails:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and back rails supports are screwed into the legs. On the vice side, only the back rail support is attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rail support attachments to the legs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three-quarter view of the leg bracing boards attached:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from the other end:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of completed bench upgrade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably wondering how flat the top is after all the bracing I have done. It's off a little, in spots. Right now it's not important to resolve. Once I get the benches and equipment reorganized, I will come back to this and do some careful planing/sanding. It really isn't bad.
> 
> Before turning off the lights for the night, I did some edge planing in the black vice. Nice. The bench didn't budge or rock.
> 
> Next project: putting up walls in the dungeon using pallets!





> I bought a HR bench at a divorce, er garage sale for $40, assembled and unused. Hard to pass up. Using at the moment for storage but would like to beef it up. Not a bad bench for the price, and respectable when on sale at HF. My HF brad nailer outlasted a Porter Cable. There are some diamonds in that pile of coal.
> 
> - davidroberts


My apologies for taking so long to get back to your comment, David.

So far the HF bench has been useful and holding up well. The bench has the only working vices, so it can't help but be useful. I would have wanted more dog holes, but that is something I can add on my own. I'm glad I bought it. I would have loved getting mine for the price of yours, though. 

I also have a HF nailer (18 gauge) that has been a good tool. I run an in-line oiler, which tends to send quite a bit through. I think that has helped in keeping it (mostly) jam-free and running predictably. Careful screening and taking good care of HF tools can give back unparalleled value.


----------



## retired_guru

*Tool Tip - Simple Depth Gauge for Twist Bits*

Yesterday, while working on the stake sides for my Harbor Freight trailer, I found myself in a need for a depth gauge for the drill bits I was using. I didn't think to bring out a roll of painter's tape and I was too into my work to get one from the dungeon.

A solution that worked well for me: use your marking pencil to draw a heavy line across one of the twist bit's flukes. The line will be quite visible as the bit spins.﻿

_

I have been busy with building a trailer (to haul lumber and everything else), as well as organizing the dungeon workshop, and most recently, setting up the potted pallet garden in our back yard. Once the trailer is done, I will make a project post with pictures. Until then, I will catch up with everyone as soon as I can.


----------



## retired_guru

*Franken-Rack gives life to Harbor Freight trailer*

Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof's infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4'x8' sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.

The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.










The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn't difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It's important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That's a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.

The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn't have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front "A" frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the "A" frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn't use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.

Final Construction Pictures

Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:










I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn't needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:



















I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:



















The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:










The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.

Next project--The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Franken-Rack gives life to Harbor Freight trailer*
> 
> Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof's infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4'x8' sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.
> 
> The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn't difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It's important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That's a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.
> 
> The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn't have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front "A" frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the "A" frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn't use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.
> 
> Final Construction Pictures
> 
> Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn't needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.
> 
> Next project--The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.


I forgot to mention in the blog that some of the lumber used in this construction came from the disassembled Franken-Rack. This is why the stakes and 1"x6" sides look like they have been used before.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Franken-Rack gives life to Harbor Freight trailer*
> 
> Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof's infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4'x8' sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.
> 
> The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn't difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It's important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That's a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.
> 
> The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn't have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front "A" frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the "A" frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn't use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.
> 
> Final Construction Pictures
> 
> Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn't needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.
> 
> Next project--The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.


Awesome build Paul, you will get a lot of use out of your trailer configured that way.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Franken-Rack gives life to Harbor Freight trailer*
> 
> Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof's infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4'x8' sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.
> 
> The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn't difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It's important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That's a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.
> 
> The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn't have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front "A" frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the "A" frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn't use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.
> 
> Final Construction Pictures
> 
> Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn't needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.
> 
> Next project--The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.





> Awesome build Paul, you will get a lot of use out of your trailer configured that way.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. Now I can bring in all the lumber I need for the dungeon workshop.


----------



## TomiP

retired_guru said:


> *Franken-Rack gives life to Harbor Freight trailer*
> 
> Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof's infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4'x8' sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.
> 
> The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn't difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It's important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That's a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.
> 
> The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn't have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front "A" frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the "A" frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn't use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.
> 
> Final Construction Pictures
> 
> Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn't needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.
> 
> Next project--The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.


Hi Paul.
Enjoy your projects. Can you please point me to the 50+ photos you have on the Harbor Freight build? Especially the images of how the trailer sides were done? As we know, Google+ no longer exists so other posts no longer work.
Thank you, Tom [email protected]


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Franken-Rack gives life to Harbor Freight trailer*
> 
> Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof's infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4'x8' sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.
> 
> The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn't difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It's important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That's a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.
> 
> The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn't have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front "A" frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the "A" frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn't use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.
> 
> Final Construction Pictures
> 
> Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn't needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.
> 
> Next project--The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.





> Hi Paul.
> Enjoy your projects. Can you please point me to the 50+ photos you have on the Harbor Freight build? Especially the images of how the trailer sides were done? As we know, Google+ no longer exists so other posts no longer work.
> Thank you, Tom [email protected]
> 
> - TomiP


Hi Tom,

Thanks! I have some good news and not so good news for you. The good news is that this summer I will be rebuilding the trailer. All new wood (stake sides, front and back), as well as all new LED lights and wiring harness. The new lights are due to a recall from HF. I bought the new wiring harness long before the recall was announced, thinking that was part of the original problem.

The wood is being replaced because a couple of years of little use and being out in the weather has turned the pine boards and pressure treated plywood deck into moldy evil looking stuff. I'm also going to be changing the design to better suite the needs now. I don't need to transport sheet goods-I have a pickup with an 8 foot box-and I am expecting to move next year. There is a good change I will consider using thin boards instead of horizontal two-bys, with little to no space between them, to reduce weight and aid in transporting loose goods. I'll decide for sure when I am ready to dive into the project.

The bad news is I don't know when I will be starting the project. Some time this summer, is a surety, with early fall as a desperate last 'for sure'. Until then, I just don't have the time to dig out the photos-not even sure where they are or if I have kept them all. I'll post the new construction/rebuild. Up to you. I hope you can wait. 

Paul


----------



## retired_guru

*Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*

I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.

I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.

Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.










For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.

I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.



















Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.

To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.




























Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.



















Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.










This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.

Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Paul,
looks like you now have an excellent piece of kit at your disposal.
This investment will surely pay for itself in good time.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.





> Paul,
> looks like you now have an excellent piece of kit at your disposal.
> This investment will surely pay for itself in good time.
> Cheers, Jinky (James).
> 
> - jinkyjock


Thanks, James. I'm happy to say it already has shown its worth. Later this summer I will be hauling a lot of junk out of the dungeon to make more room for the workshop and free us of the slavery in packratting.  It does well in hauling pallets and reclaimed lumber. Looking forward to seeing what it can do.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Great project, Paul.
A perfect alternative for those of us who don't (or no longer) have a truck


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.





> Great project, Paul.
> A perfect alternative for those of us who don t (or no longer) have a truck
> 
> - handsawgeek


My old Chevy Blazer gets treated like a truck, and does a surprising amount of odd-ball lugging. When the goods to be hauled were too wide, long or tall, I was out of luck. The trailer has already been a godsend. Even though I do have plans on getting a truck (later this year or early next) I can honestly say I don't have the driving urge right now. That's worth something right there.


----------



## tommypotatoes

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


How strong do you figure those cross braces are? I'm twiddling with the same trailer and want to carry a canoe on the top of it. What are your thoughts?


----------



## Schutz

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Hello Paul,
I am wondering if there is a way that I could connect with you to get the pictures on how you built your trailer. I would like to build something very similar. Thanks. Schutz


----------



## metallicvett

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Are you still able to share the google+? I'm new to this, and I don't know what metal brackets you used.


----------



## matt176

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


I am also interested in more information about this build. Can you please send me the link? Thanks in advance.


----------



## splintergroup

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


I have a 16' x 6' twin axle trailer that I use for big stuff, but a trailer that size sure would be handy for so many things that make hitching up and pulling the twin axle a real downer. Those staked sides add to the usefulness 10x.

Nice job!


----------



## Mournblade

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Hello Paul,

Nice work on the trailer. I have the same one and would love to see the detailed pics if you could share.

Thanks!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.





> How strong do you figure those cross braces are? I m twiddling with the same trailer and want to carry a canoe on the top of it. What are your thoughts?
> 
> - tommypotatoes


Not very. I used them to keep contents in the trailer, not to strengthen the sides (keep them from bowing outward under shifting load). I figured that I would lash them to the sides if it came to that kind of worry. So the intent was never to put a load atop the braces. As to whether they could support a canoe…possibly. Depends on the weight of the canoe, and of course, lashing the ends of the braces to the side so they can't bounce around while traveling. It wouldn't take much of a design change to accommodate your need.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Since I've had a few requests for more information, the easiest way for me to share this information is to repost the pictures that I have in one place. This would take some time, as I would have to gather the originals and re-edit for size. I don't recall offhand how tall I made the stakes, but really, that can vary with your need. I didn't work off of measured plans, just winged it as I went. The trailer has been a dependable workhorse.

I haven't had it on the road since since last summer due to a lack of need. I've neglected the wood, so I will need to strip it down and rebuild. The next time around I will make changes that will simplify construction and make the setup stronger and more versatile. When that will be, I can't tell you. Last fall I shattered my right heel in an accident and am still unable to walk or stand for long, nor carry much weight around. I wouldn't be surprised if I left this for next year.

I apologize for such a late reply to some of you who posted requests a year ago. I haven't been here in a while and last fall until now haven't been in the workshop.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.





> Are you still able to share the google+? I m new to this, and I don t know what metal brackets you used.
> 
> - metallicvett


I closed out my Facebook account the other day, in light of all that has transpired. I'm somewhat active now on Google+. I may build an album of the pics there. If I do, I will post my Google+ page here in the comments.

Regarding the metal brackets: simple. I used home construction brackets that can be found in any home hardware/lumber store. Bring the 3/4 view pics with you and help can show you where there are.


----------



## danny1241

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Paul, 
I really like looking at your blog pictures and workshop pictures and ideas. I do have 2 questions about the trailer that I couldn't determine from the pictures.
- Did you put wood cross pieces on the metal frame cross members and then attach the plywood on top or just attach the plywood to the perimeter of the frame?
- Did the tailgate end of the trailer come with stake brackets originally welded in place or were there holes already there where you added the 2×4 and then attached the stake brackets?

Danny1241


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Hey Danny,



> Paul, I really like looking at your blog pictures and workshop pictures and ideas.


Thanks!



> I do have 2 questions about the trailer that I couldn t determine from the pictures.
> - Did you put wood cross pieces on the metal frame cross members and then attach the plywood on top or just attach the plywood to the perimeter of the frame?


No added bracing, just bolted the 3/4" pressure-treated plywood to the frame, both having the same outer dimensions.



> - Did the tailgate end of the trailer come with stake brackets originally welded in place or were there holes already there where you added the 2×4 and then attached the stake brackets?


The kit comes with stake brackets: two on each end and two for each side. They are bolted onto the frame. I added the wood at the end of the trailer bed to extend it enough so I could close the lower gate on sheet goods, and to have mounting points for the lower gate hinges.


----------



## mike28170

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight Folding Utility Trailer Build*
> 
> I have been busy with multiple woodworking related and household projects this Spring, which is mainly why I haven't been on Lumberjocks in that time. Previously I posted two small projects worth mentioning. I am currently working on a commission for a new neighbor. One project that consumed a month of my time was the building of the Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer with a custom-made stake bed.
> 
> I needed to be able to haul 4'x8' sheet goods from the box stores to the workshop, pallets from around the area, equipment too big for the insides of my SUV, and of course junk to the landfill and recycling centers. The Franken-Rack I built last year was a temporary fix that gave mixed results. It was time to get that trailer I always wanted and desperately needed.
> 
> Here is the finished trailer, less some tie-down hardware I have been too preoccupied to screw into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you interested in how this was assembled (the HF kit) and the construction of the stake bed, Let me know and I will point you to my Goggle+ posts that show over 50 images of the build from start to finish. I am only adding the walk-around here.
> 
> I build the stake bed with a dual-gate design. The hinged gate is enough for sheet goods and some items that might be longer than the 8' bed length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate's latches when the stake gate is used, otherwise I can use the padlocks when without.
> 
> To minimizer flex in the stake bed side and keep them from compressing when tie-downs are torqued tightly across from side to side, I created cross braces that sit atop of the top horizontal frame and latch into the stakes via sliding latches. To keep the latches in place, carabiners are used. Effective. Simple in design. So far, fool proof and very convenient when I need to remove them or store them inside the SUV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pre-finished pictures of the trailer in use. You can see the racks sides, tailgate and stake end are unfinished, but this shows how the rear end can be accessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two ancillary devices were purchased that have been very helpful. The first is the swing-away trailer jack, seen in the finished project pictures. The second has become a necessity since I can't back into my driveway and need to disconnect and move around the trailer by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This trailer and stake bed have been an interesting project and challenge. I had some unexpected problems during assembly. How to build the stake bed to fit my needs was not obvious and took some out of the box thinking. For instance, the trailer dimensions are exactly the same as a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, which required half-lapping the first rail into the stakes to keep the inner dimensions the same. I also wired it differently, seeing as this will never be folded and can't be as I built it. The trailer does not come with washers or lock-washers, with a handful of exceptions, so about 200 of each were purchased. Extra hardware alone cost half again the price of the trailer kit. When done, this cost me a little over $400.00. Not bad, compared to the competition.
> 
> Would I recommend the trailer kit? Most definitely. Be prepared to upscale. Anyone interested in how to do that, let me know.


Can you share with me your Google + link with the other step by step photos? I have a Harbor Freight trailer and love this idea.


----------



## retired_guru

*Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*

I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:










Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.


----------



## ForestGrl

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.


Totally cool! Too funny, that last part.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.


Neat!

You have to do what they think they said; not what they actually said!

I will NOT show this to my wife!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.





> Totally cool! Too funny, that last part.
> 
> - ForestGrl


Hahah. Thanks. I've been married for over 35 years and I still have to get out my Nifty Jifty Decoder Ring to decipher what the wife really means.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.





> Neat!
> 
> You have to do what they think they said; not what they actually said!
> 
> I will NOT show this to my wife!
> 
> - ralbuck


Hahah. Yeah. Theirs is a language all of its own.


----------



## HerbC

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.


What, YOU got a decoder ring??? Now I KNOW I've been cheated, I've had to guess all these years…

Herb


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.





> What, YOU got a decoder ring??? Now I KNOW I ve been cheated, I ve had to guess all these years…
> 
> Herb
> 
> - HerbC


Heh. It would be great if it worked all the time, Herb. >_>


----------



## WoodNSawdust

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.


Nice looking storage rack, I am glade she appreciates it.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.





> Nice looking storage rack, I am glade she appreciates it.
> 
> - WoodNSawdust


Thanks. So am I. Even after 35 years of marriage I am not guaranteed success.


----------



## SapDruide

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.


Thats a really nice storage rack. Great job !


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Sewing Thread Spools & Bobbins Rack: Fully Populated*
> 
> I posted the other day a completed project I made for the wife's birthday. She has now populated the rack, so here is what it was designed to look like in use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that on some of the spools there is a bobbin containing the same thread. This was the key ingredient: she wanted to keep the bobbins with the spools providing the thread and color. I wasn't surprised to see that she doubled up on bobbins for some of them. I asked her if she would want to do this before starting the project. She told me she would never do that so don't worry about it. I guess it's a good thing I don't always pay attention to what my wife says.





> Thats a really nice storage rack. Great job !
> 
> - SapDruide


Thanks. She's getting good use out of it.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*

One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.

I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.

If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.

--










Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.










Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.










I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.

I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.










More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.

You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.

The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.

There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.

Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.










So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?

In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.

Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.

Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.










Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.

The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.










The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.

Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.

The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.

And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.










The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.










I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.

You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs. 

I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.

---

ADDENDUM - July 16th










I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


----------



## majuvla

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Don't be sad, it is mess, but it has great potential! Can't wait to see it complete.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Progress is often messy Paul and it is a journey but the end results are worth the effort.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


I'm in the same boat, but on a later journey. It's like one of those sliding number puzzles. You know what you have to do and you can see everything that has to be done to get there, but in order to do the first thing (get the 1 in the top left corner) you have to move numbers 2-15 around - and a number of times. The chicken and the egg have nothing on this paradox.

You are doing the right thing though, organise so you can disorganize in an organised way and so reorganise into the organization you wanted in the first place.

Or something


----------



## CincyRW

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


I'm in a similar situation - small, low-ceiling basement in a 100+ YO house. I feel your pain. You've certainly got some constraints, but you're making great progress. Can you rig a pulley to the ceiling to lift up the planer?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.





> Don t be sad, it is mess, but it has great potential! Can t wait to see it complete.
> 
> - majuvla


Thanks, Ivan. Appreciated. The dungeon does have potential, enough to allow me to get organized to where I can know where everything is and find it so I don't waste time and get so frustrated looking for things. As I said, patience is not one of my virtues.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.





> Progress is often messy Paul and it is a journey but the end results are worth the effort.
> 
> - luv2learn


You are so right, Lee. I wish *all* of my journeys weren't so messy, though.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.





> I m in the same boat, but on a later journey. It s like one of those sliding number puzzles. You know what you have to do and you can see everything that has to be done to get there, but in order to do the first thing (get the 1 in the top left corner) you have to move numbers 2-15 around - and a number of times. The chicken and the egg have nothing on this paradox.
> 
> You are doing the right thing though, organise so you can disorganize in an organised way and so reorganise into the organization you wanted in the first place.
> 
> Or something


Jeeze-Louise, Ted…I love how you can make me chuckle. Circular thinking is so 'me'. 

Seriously, I need organization to counter my very disorganized mind and short attention span. I'm sure I have a touch of Attention Disorder in me. It has gotten worse with age. When my environment is clutter-free and organized, I work very fast and very efficiently. 'Stay the course.' That's about the best advice anyone can offer, I guess.

How's your situation doing? I'm not on G+ much, so I may have missed your posts. Are the coops up? Posts with pics up?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.





> I m in a similar situation - small, low-ceiling basement in a 100+ YO house. I feel your pain. You ve certainly got some constraints, but you re making great progress. Can you rig a pulley to the ceiling to lift up the planer?
> 
> - CincyRW


Thanks for the encouraging words. Appreciated, especially from someone with similar workspace limitations.

I took a look at your profile and was amazed at the quality of your work. Your skill has definitely overcome your limitations there. I hope to be at that level some day.

If my neighbor hadn't recently promised to help me move the planer, I would have rigged up a lift. Now I have to build a squat base on wheels for it by Friday, when he can help. And pray that my back doesn't give me problems with his help.


----------



## stefang

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


It looks like you are making pretty good progress. Getting a shop into working order takes a lot of time and energy and it can be discouraging at times if you really just want to do woodworking not construction work. I guess it is part of paying our dues. Most of us have been through it at least once and some many times over. I have done it twice. The first time was mainly just moving into a nicely finished basement room. The second time I had to build the whole thing. After getting a shop space finished we then usually have to be constantly reconfiguring it to accommodate new tools, new work methods, new interests and/or all of these reasons. My one big, maybe helpful, suggestion would be to set up your shop so it can be flexible as possible when those future inevitable changes have to be made.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Thanks, Stefang, for the words of encouragement. I do realize many start off with a meager workspace and some never get past one. In my case, as I enter into a semi-retirement phase (where I still need to make an income, if only fund the cost of running the shop) I need to get the shop to where I can do some limited production work. There is a lot of construction to be done on the house, too, so a place to reface kitchen cabinet doors, build some cabinets, etc., is needed. I also have a time restraint. There is a lot of window work that has to be done inside before winter arrives. Really, I have too much on my bucket list, so whenever I am bogged down because of the shop conditions or weather, it's hard on me.

This was all so much easier when I was a young man.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Paul,
+1 with stefang (Mike).
Sometimes it can be difficult to see the progress you have made when you are in an environment every day,
but to my eyes you are definitely progressing, *AND* you have a plan.
I work in a 16×12ft shop and it drives me crazy sometimes, but I have learned to adapt and be more organised.
Recently I did a re-fit of my shop, (check out my blog), and am not too proud to admit that I took some ideas from guys like Mike and others in LJ's to use my limited resources efficiently.
This was all so much easier when I was a young man. 
There's a hill outside my house and its DEFINITELY steeper than it was 10 yrs ago.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Jinky, the best part about socializing with people who share your interest is getting the chance to learn from them. 

Progress is a subjective point of view. It's good to have some one else's opinion to know where you have been is where you thought you were going. 

A note to anyone coming back to this thread: I added an addendum with an additional picture of the progress made. Not all my power tools are accessible, but enough of them that I can get some work done without the dangerous mess. Probably by the weekend I will have the bike shop area resolved.

I swung by your place earlier this week. I'll go back and look around as soon as I can. I might find some secrets I can make my own.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


I am glad to serve 

We still haven't got the first coop installed. The friend who was "able to get as many people as we need" was not, and so the house still sits blocking the driveway. I've finally picked a design for the new coops, and need to work it up in SketchUp. Also, I am broke and have to wait for the 1st to order some non-pressure treated lumber, ply for the roof and floor, profile boards for the outer walls, some plastic corrugated roofing, and hardware for installing same.

In getting other bits and bobs, I spent all my saw money. Thankfully we have a large tax return on deck, if we ever find the time to do the numbers and submit the return.

Our second batch of chicks is hatching as I type, so I'd better get a move on! Now, if I move the 2 there, then I can move the 5 there and bring the 1 up a level….


> Jeeze-Louise, Ted…I love how you can make me chuckle. Circular thinking is so me .
> 
> Seriously, I need organization to counter my very disorganized mind and short attention span. I m sure I have a touch of Attention Disorder in me. It has gotten worse with age. When my environment is clutter-free and organized, I work very fast and very efficiently. Stay the course. That s about the best advice anyone can offer, I guess.
> 
> How s your situation doing? I m not on G+ much, so I may have missed your posts. Are the coops up? Posts with pics up?
> 
> - Paul Bucalo


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.





> We still haven t got the first coop installed. The friend who was "able to get as many people as we need" was not, and so the house still sits blocking the driveway.


Depending on others tends to be where things fall apart for me on my projects. :/



> I ve finally picked a design for the new coops, and need to work it up in SketchUp.


I don't run Windows any more than I have to, so I'm running XP in a virtual machine just to run SketchUp, and the only reason I bother with that is because with everyone else using the program I lose out on good plans if I don't. I'm still determined to learn FreeCAD, though. Open source whenever possible. Good luck with getting the plans up. I'd like to see the finished design when you are done.



> Also, I am broke and have to wait for the 1st to order some non-pressure treated lumber, ply for the roof and floor, profile boards for the outer walls, some plastic corrugated roofing, and hardware for installing same.


Money: the root of all project delays for us meager woodworkers. I feel your pain, Ted. 



> In getting other bits and bobs, I spent all my saw money. Thankfully we have a large tax return on deck, if we ever find the time to do the numbers and submit the return.


Tax returns may not be the best way to save up money, but they sure do some angelic butt saving when the money arrives. So get those calculators and pencils moving along. File! 



> Our second batch of chicks is hatching as I type, so I d better get a move on! Now, if I move the 2 there, then I can move the 5 there and bring the 1 up a level….


You better get that spare bedroom made up. You'll be having lots of house guests soon.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Things look much more feng shui after the update, Paul. Nice one.
I'm pretty much out of G+ too. 4 years is enough


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.





> Things look much more feng shui after the update, Paul. Nice one.


Thanks. I hope so. It's been a day or so like this and I do believe I am getting around a lot better. The weak spot in the layout is in getting around the left side (in relation to the picture) of the Windsor bench because of the floor mounted power strip. I need more outlets mounted throughout. This is going to entail installing a couple of more service box circuit breakers, as I am running pretty much the whole shop on two, most of the load on one. Being only me, myself and I, the greatest load at one time is all the lights, the power tool and the shop vac. But I do need more outlets, so…bucket list. 



> I m pretty much out of G+ too. 4 years is enough
> 
> - Ted Ewen


I had a major catastrophe on G+ over two years ago that has greatly curbed my ability to get around and, more importantly, my desire to be there. And like you said: four years is long enough. It's no longer like it was in the beta days. Everything is different, including the people I grew with there. I really should spend more time here. Good people here that will teach me much, share their ingenuity and skills, and give me encouragement.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


I'm with you on the electrics. We've been living off of extension cords pretty much since we got the house The electrics are 1960's farm-house chic. The cost of finding out what is wrong, let alone the cost of repairs, is, well, terminal. I just can not justify it yet. One day, I will have a house with electrics, really. I know it seems backwards building a shop before reliable home-wide electrics, but the shop means coops and chickens, which mean moneys. Silly moneys.

I wondered what happened with you on G+. We'd seemed to connect then you went away and came back. Having taken an extended hiatus a couple of years ago myself, I do understand though. Specific context, as we have here, helps direct our discussions, but we still manage to natter like old women


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


I know what you mean, Ted. The upstairs here is mostly asphalt covered two pole wire without ground. We seriously need to move out of here in the near future. In my case, I need the shop fully functional to get the needed remodeling done so we can move out. Ass-backward, just like your situation.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop: Progress Report & Walk-Through*
> 
> One of my greatest challenges in woodworking is not working wood. That isn't meant to imply I have all the skills and knowledge, that I am an expert in woodworking. What I mean is that being one who works best when organized, being so disorganized and without working space handicaps me like you wouldn't believe. While it would seem easy enough to just start putting things away and moving things here or there, the reality is that I don't have enough places to store what I need, and consequently I spend the majority of my time looking for tools, equipment and supplies. The dungeon isn't the only place I have these things. They are scattered between three floors. This has to stop, of course. This is what I have been focusing on between small projects over the course of the past several months.
> 
> I should have taken 'before' pictures of the mess. It was such a dangerous environment before these new pictures were taken that I was sure to receive a lot of admonishment from my peers. I was literally stepping over loose lumber and narrowly moving between benches and stands to get from one spot to another. What you see here is still a dangerous mess, but now I have room to move around and that means more and safer progress.
> 
> If the weather was more cooperative, I could get the lumber on the floor out to the trailer, cover it with a tarp, and extract what I needed until I had the shop laid out. Unfortunately, the humidity level is much higher outside because of the amount of rain we have been having this summer. It will be months before I can create any more lumber racks. I know: everything in its own time. Patience was never a virtue of mine.
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I put up a studded wall along side of the old oil tank. I used new and reclaimed OSB, which I found out during construction was of two different thickness. Before I knew this I had measured out panel widths and you can see I missed the proper measurement on the top right panel. Fortunately, looks is far less important in this environment than usability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the high humidity and mold/mildew in this environment, I decided to prime the front side of wall with bin primer before painting. One thick coat was applied, enough to ensure that I got the majority of the crevices filled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied one coat of white latex ceiling paint. I went back and forth many times on which bench to put in this space. The HF Windsor bench (seen on the left) would allow placing it away from the wall and walking around all four sides. The problem is in the uneven floor, especially at the drain hole on the far right. The bench lacks the weight to keep itself stable on floor shims. I also needed the deeper converted desk-to-bench placed where it would do the most good. It won't fit anywhere else. Once dry, the bench was moved into place. As you can see, finding a place for things is what holds back construction. Can't work on the bench if it is filled with expectant tools and equipment.
> 
> I whipped up a small clamps rack for the right side of the bench. These are the plastic-ended squeeze-grip clamps I have. I have to build a larger rack for my screw grip clamps in the space left open around the tank. Something for a later time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More clutter. The stone wall on the right has to be reclaimed. Minimally, I need to take the pegboard on the wall and rotate its length and hang it to run widthwise along the wall. What I would like to do eventually is to stud the wall as I did around the oil tank. This makes it easier to rid myself of the ever present intrusion of arachnids in my dungeon domain. It would also keep the moisture off whatever I put near the wall.
> 
> You can see how much the floor slopes from the far right corner to the left when you look at the wheeled sliding compound saw bench compared to the Windsor work bench. I kid you not, that is about a two inch slope. Another reason for adding the studded wall is to create wall-mounted benches that 'would be' level. That would take care of this problem.
> 
> The lumber, as mentioned before, is a problem here: no place to put it. The steel shelves in the background are coming out. They are lined with bike shop stuff. Most of that will be given away to a friend who works on bikes to supplement his Social Security. But since I still have several bikes to care for and some still to be built-up, there will be a repair shop somewhere.
> 
> There is a tiny closet-like room behind all the bench (white door) that hasn't been opened in over twenty years. I am curious to see if it can be used for finishing or storage.
> 
> Note the DeWALT thickness planer on the left. It's 'stuck' there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do I mean by the planer being 'stuck' there?
> 
> In trying to gain some access to this part of the dungeon, I needed to find a place to put the thickness planer where it would be temporarily out of the way. As you know, these are close to 200 pounds in weight. Like the old-man-who-thought-he-was-still-a-young-fool, I horsed it up onto two tall sawhorses. That caused a massive spasm across my back, a reoccurrence of an injury sustained in my computer shop back in the late '90s. Thinking that I could work this one out, I kept on going. It looked like it was going to work. Then I tried to carry my relatively light Contractor saw out to the back yard. It was on the stone steps leading outdoors that it came on full force, locked me up so I couldn't move, and here I was pinned on the steps, wedged between it and the stone wall. At any rate, I was incapacitated for well over a week and that was months ago. Eventually, I have to get this down and placed on wheels or I will never be able to used it. I sure wish one of you guys lived close by to give a hand.  My young stud neighbor has promised to help me move it this Friday. I just have to get a low base on wheels together before then.
> 
> Also notice the table saw has a base. That's a new accomplishment, one I started well over a year ago. It turned out to be sturdy and appropriately heavy, with two wheel on one end and a wooden foot on the other. All four corners have levelers. The only failure in this base has been dust collection. I needed to make the bottom tray sloped downward into the collection port. Too much saw dust ejects out the front blade angle port, for one, and secondly, the rest still piles up around the edge of the shallow trough. Live and learn.
> 
> Behind and to the left of the left steel shelf unit is a room extension. This space is filled with bicycling stuff in boxes and some extra plastic garbage cans no longer used. Once they are out and electricity/lighting installed, this could be used for the bike repair shop. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around the adjustable steel joist jacks I made a pallet wood wall. This is going to provide a usable wall to hang tools on and to partition workspace from the lumber rack behind it. I just finished relocating the bench drill press here, which is now securely bolt to the cabinet top. The top drawers were peculiar in that the hand holds to open them leaves a large gap that allows sawdust and crud to fall into the drawers. The thick board you see resting on the drawer tops will be cut to match the width of the table top and then two hinges will be mounted on top so that it can hinged upward and out of the way to get at the drawers.
> 
> The router stand is a Catch-22 for me, because I hope to do jointing with it (I don't have a jointer and probably won't while in this shop space). I know I will need to get long boards through there and obviously where it is that can't happen. When the need arises I will have to move the base out enough to clear the drill press, moving it back against the wall when done. I may find myself putting wheels on the base will make this easier to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The space to the right of the band saw is where the drill press used to be. I would really like to free the bureau top up for a computer monitor and place a computer tower in the opened up left side bay. Maybe once the bike shop area is cleaned out there will be room there.
> 
> Much of what is on the wall there will be relocated to the other walls, as it pertains to the equipment and use at location. I plan on painting the wall white: I need more light reflection on the work areas.
> 
> The old Delta scroll saw on the left needs to be refurbished. Another project on my bucket list.
> 
> And that back room needs to be cleaned out. inside, and around to the right, I have to put in at least one adjustable joist jack to prop up the kitchen/bathroom floor where it is sagging before I can remodel either. More bucket list fodder. Right now, I have rough shelving in there that houses all of my bottles and canned solvents, paints, oils, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chest freezer couldn't be in a worse place as far as the shop is concerned. Every time the wife wants to take something out of the it I have to move whatever is on top of it-usually completely covered with whatever-and it's a real pain. But there isn't any better place for it as I don't want my wife walking 'through' the workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish pictures conveyed depth, as our eyes see it. The rough patches of concrete flooring on the bottom left of the picture vary in depth, some places as deep as a couple of inches. The heavy miter saw bench in the back gets stuck here, and that has wheels nearly three inches tall. Resurfacing isn't an option. I am hoping to lay down rubber mats in the future.
> 
> You can see the lumber piles that are in the way. They will be moved today, because I need to get the table saw located to just camera-side of the shop vac, and the Windsor bench will be its outfeed table. Then it will be time to don the respirator and ear mugs before vacuuming webs and spiders to get access to the bike shelves. You have no idea how buried that area is in webs.
> 
> I hope you found this progress report and tour of my dungeon workshop interesting.
> 
> ---
> 
> ADDENDUM - July 16th
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent some time in the dungeon since I posted this blog. I've been able to get some stuff put away (like powered hand tools underneath the large desk-turned-bench) and of course the relocation of the table saw and Windsor bench at center floor. I did some spider web cleaning out in the far right corner and was able to clear off most of what was hanging on the pegboard. The board will be removed, cleaned up and then mounted long ways across the wall so that I can have full use of it. The sliding miter saw, as we all knows, needs a lot of space behind it, so for now its present location works and give me some access to the bike stuff I have to remove/relocate.


Ah well, at least we are having fun


----------



## retired_guru

*Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*

If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!










Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.










Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.










I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….










...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.










Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.




























I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.










By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.

For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.


----------



## majuvla

retired_guru said:


> *Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*
> 
> If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.
> 
> For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.


It's so massive, sure will do the job and carry all weight.


----------



## JoeinGa

retired_guru said:


> *Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*
> 
> If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.
> 
> For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.


I see no problems with that frame holding the weight, but now when you plane lumber, you'll be on your knees


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*
> 
> If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.
> 
> For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.





> It s so massive, sure will do the job and carry all weight.
> 
> - majuvla


I tend to overbuild things, so yeah it should hold a lot more than the weight of the planer.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*
> 
> If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.
> 
> For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.





> I see no problems with that frame holding the weight, but now when you plane lumber, you ll be on your knees
> 
> - JoeinGa


Right now, this isn't about convenience in using it. It's about getting it out of the way as I continue to clean and reclaim space in the dungeon. Also keep in mind that the last time I used this piece of equipment was this past winter. I hope to find a higher location for it once the space is freed up.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*
> 
> If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.
> 
> For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.


Ok, now move 5 there, 14 there, and 2 over to the left. Now you can move 12, 5 and 9… Also: No project is really a project unless you injure yourself in some minor way - the more embarrassing the better. Glad you avoided paralysing pain


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Portable Base for DeWALT Thickness Planer*
> 
> If you have been following my previous blog posts, you will recall that in creating an efficient and safe workshop in the dungeon, I've had to shift benches and equipment around as areas became ready. I'm at that point where I need to access the South side of the dungeon, and to do that I need to get the heavy thickness planer off its high perch and onto a portable base so I can use it/move it as needed. To that end, I just completed a simple, very sturdy rolling base and now have the planer on it. Hooray! I didn't lock up my back in moving the planer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the Windsor bench in the middle of the floor has worked out nicely, as this project as proven. The framing started off as reclaimed 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" boards found out back of my neighborhood box store. The outside dimensions are 16" wide by 26" long. This gives extra room around the planer and added some stability. Here you see the dry fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up a pocket-hole screw jig at Harbor Freight. It occurred to me that I haven't tried this kind of joinery and decided this would be good for the inner braces, because of where they are located. I found this easy to use and worked fine; a good value considering how much less it cost me over that of a Kreg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out with mounting an inner side rail into the vise and using a clamp to keep the center brace in place. It worked out well, however….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I made the mistake of completing the inner framing using the vise instead of the relatively flat/level bench top. The frame ended up a little warped. Nothing that hurt the overall performance, just something I knew better not to do and could have avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three inch casters and trailing wheels have massive bases. To give four-point contact with the base I used 2×4s across both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little hand planing on the top edges to get rid of unevenness and high spots. I was undecided on whether to add a solid surface to the top of the framing, what material to use if I did (plywood, chip board, planks). In the end I decided not to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By balancing the thickness planer on one of the two sawhorses and pushing aside the other, I was able to let gravity help in 'sliding' it off and onto the waiting base. The back was saved. Unfortunately, the toes of my left foot were clobbered by the hardwood board that was under the planer on the sawhorses. No blood-just sore toes. Figures.
> 
> For now, getting the planer out of the way is all I can worry about. Later on, I plan on adding levelers, since finding a spot on the floor that will meet all four wheels is going to be rare, anyway.





> Ok, now move 5 there, 14 there, and 2 over to the left. Now you can move 12, 5 and 9…


A-yep. You got the gist of it.



> Also: No project is really a project unless you injure yourself in some minor way - the more embarrassing the better. Glad you avoided paralysing pain
> 
> - Ted Ewen


Minor injuries are a way of life when you work with your hands. The key is not to lose anything vital. So far, I've kept me head attached.


----------



## retired_guru

*Workshop Build - Progress Report*

The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.

I removed the peg board from the field stone side.










The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.










This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.

Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Oh go on, do the finishing work in there. It puts the varnish on the wood or it gets the hose.
I see why you call it the dungeon


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.





> Oh go on, do the finishing work in there. It puts the varnish on the wood or it gets the hose.


Sure, sure. 



> I see why you call it the dungeon
> 
> - Ted Ewen


I have a 10" 270 cfm window-mounted fan running night and day to remove as much of the humidity as can be drawn out. It helps some. However, with all that mold, mildew and mortar dust being swept up and vacuumed, several hours later I found the space difficult to breathe in. The odor was obvious. I haven't ventured down this morning to see/smell.

As for the little room…

The floor space is covered with rotted, moldy paper and what-have-you litter. It was build by a previous owner to be a photography darkroom. I would need to remove the shelving in there, which has collapsed on the end I can see through the opening, and even then I don't think it would give me enough room to work in there. That isn't a disappointment, because as a walk-in storage closet it would greatly remove the clutter and organize my supplies, which are now at the other end and causing a real mess.

The place is aptly named. It just may be possible that when I finally finish hitting every corner of the cellar I will have to drop the 'dungeon' title.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Paul, are you going to take the doors down? It looks like there is some good salvageable material in them. Progress, progress my friend!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.





> Paul, are you going to take the doors down? It looks like there is some good salvageable material in them. Progress, progress my friend!!
> 
> - luv2learn


Lee, I don't know yet what I am going to do with this room. The worse case scenario is that it is so damp and mildewy in there that I close the door back up and use the room as a back wall for a wide bench. If I can use the room, it may be advantageous to leave the door on, to keep what's inside as dust free as possible. On the other hand, removing the door makes access easier and doesn't force me to limit what I place against the wall on the back side of the opened door. Once I get in there I can figure something out.

Progress. I guess.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Hey, Paul,
Have you considered taking the whole kit and kaboodle out and just expanding the available amount of floor space? Looks like the wood that makes up the door and shelves would suit a nice 'rustic' project. That would also relieve the mustiness from that corner of the room.

You wrote: Progress. I guess. 

That reminds me of a line from the comedian Galliger:

"If 'con' is the opposite of 'pro', then that means 'CON-gress is the opposite of PRO-gress!"


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.





> Hey, Paul,
> Have you considered taking the whole kit and kaboodle out and just expanding the available amount of floor space?


As of ten minutes ago: Yes. That's when I went down there for the first time today, did some measuring, and noticed that behind the remaining shelf unit is a window. That's not going to work for me.



> Looks like the wood that makes up the door and shelves would suit a nice rustic project.


It might at that. 



> That would also relieve the mustiness from that corner of the room.


I'm sure it would.



> You wrote: Progress. I guess.
> 
> That reminds me of a line from the comedian Galliger:
> 
> "If con is the opposite of pro , then that means CON-gress is the opposite of PRO-gress!"
> 
> - handsawgeek


Funny, Ed. No, really.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Dag-gone windows…always getting' in the dang way !!!

I'm sure you'll find a very workable, pleasing solution to this conundrum.

As for me, I have to put woodshop work on hold one more time….I've had a loose trex step on my outside deck stairway for some time, so I went out yesterday with a drill/driver and some screws to fix it, only to find that the riser supports were dry rotted! Another big home maintenance project to deal with…..


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Ouch, Ed! I've got some outdoor ass-aches to deal with, too, before the cold sets in. I wonder how I am going to make the deadline.

Doesn't it feel like insult to injury that just when you finally address a problem you can fix, the problem is found to be much bigger than you ever thought? I'm sure there is a law for this, you know, like Murphy's. >_>


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


I call it the Law of Conservation of Perversity, Paul.
Given a choice the universe will always choose the more perverse outcome - just to fook with us.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Paul,
WOW, a (mini)Dungeon within your Dungeon.
I tend to think *handsawgeek* might be on to something in opening up the space.
The right-hand wall with the extra space would be ideal for a bench or Mitre-saw station with storage beneath.
And this would still leave room for more storage options in the remaining space.
As to your mildew, my mother was "Old School" and a stiff scrubbing brush used with bleach was always to hand for just such "Odious" tasks.
If you could you get your hands on a de-humidifier for a few days that might also help.
On the plus side can definitely see your shop taking shape. 
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.





> I call it the Law of Conservation of Perversity, Paul.
> Given a choice the universe will always choose the more perverse outcome - just to fook with us.
> 
> - Ted Ewen


Amen to that. >_>


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.





> Paul,
> WOW, a (mini)Dungeon within your Dungeon.


I have the best dungeon in these here parts! 



> I tend to think *handsawgeek* might be on to something in opening up the space.
> The right-hand wall with the extra space would be ideal for a bench or Mitre-saw station with storage beneath.
> And this would still leave room for more storage options in the remaining space.


I mentioned it to the wife last night, Jinky, and she agrees. It's been raining since early this morning and looks like it will be an all day affair. Today will be a good day to get at taking the room apart.



> As to your mildew, my mother was "Old School" and a stiff scrubbing brush used with bleach was always to hand for just such "Odious" tasks.


"Scrubbing" isn't an option. It isn't the wood, per se, that is the major repository for mold and mildew. Certain areas of the stone walls are wet most of the year round. The house is over a hundred years old. When it was built, simplicity and cheapness in building were the priorities. The mortar turns to crumbling powder to the touch. The cost and amount of work to rectify this throughout the dungeon is prohibitive. But then, it is a dungeon, after all. 



> If you could you get your hands on a de-humidifier for a few days that might also help.


I had a dehumudifier in there last summer and early fall. It worked nicely, except the cost in electricity to run it. In retrospect, I tried to get the humidity level down to a level that wasn't realistic, so I am sure I caused the cost to be unreasonably high. But to give you an idea of how much moisture I was removing, set to 60% humidity I was removing 10 gallons a day. Eventually, I was down to 5 gallons. It became a daily ritual to switch buckets and empty out the waste. Not fun in the dead of winter. But maybe I can get back to this once the dungeon is cleaned out.



> On the plus side can definitely see your shop taking shape.
> 
> Cheers, Jinky (James).


Thanks, Jinky. When I look back at where I was at the beginning, I do feel some sense of accomplishment. It's the pressure to get it done and get into a revenue producing venture as soon as possible that makes it hard to see the progress for what it is. I need three of me…much younger, please.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.





> I need three of me…much younger, please.


Oh, hell no. I'd never get anything done what with all the stupid I'd have to smack out of not just one but three younger me!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Build - Progress Report*
> 
> The past few weeks have been filled with side-tracks, accomplishments, frustrations and turmoil. Today I finally reached that point where I could expand into the area of the dungeon that used to be the bike shop.
> 
> I removed the peg board from the field stone side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right corner of the metal shelving was so rusty that some bolts fused with the shelves. I expected to discard both shelf units once I got into them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This door hasn't been opened in over 25 years. The camera couldn't capture the cobwebs that completely cover the opening. It's pretty dank in there, too. I don't think this space will be used for finishing work. Storage maybe.
> 
> Tomorrow…the other shelf unit.


Point taken, Ted. I should have said three smart younger versions of me. I've made enough trouble already.


----------



## retired_guru

*Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*

Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:










The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.

Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.

Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.

So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:










Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:










So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.

Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.

I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.


Sweet as! I like it when good things happen for nice people.


----------



## nailbanger2

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.


I hope you enjoy your new tool. I have that saw, and it's done me well. It does have nylon gears for raising, angle adjustment, so keep an eye on them. Plywood overlapped the same way will get you over the gravel, the stairs will probably require a belaying line. Good Luck!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> Sweet as! I like it when good things happen for nice people.
> 
> - Ted Ewen


Thanks, Ted. This is probably the last 'big ticket' expenditure for the year. It's time to make the donuts. I have to pay for all of this somehow.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> I hope you enjoy your new tool.


Thanks. It has to be better than what I have now.



> I have that saw, and it s done me well. It does have nylon gears for raising, angle adjustment, so keep an eye on them.


I was aware of the nylon gears, having researched the saw before going to see it. What causes them to go back? Constant up and down cranking of the blade? Not keeping them lubed and/or clean? Does anyone make metal replacements for them? Any tips you have on keeping this running safe and accurate are greatly appreciated.

One concern I have is the splitter. Even my cheap one has a riving knife. Any issues with it?

And how about the fence? Some have complained about it being sloppy/inaccurate. It took a while, but I finally got my old saw's fence to work well. The Hitachi's looks to be beefier than the Skilsaw's.



> Plywood overlapped the same way will get you over the gravel, the stairs will probably require a belaying line.


I didn't think of plywood. Not sure I have enough scraps, but maybe Dad down the street does. Excellent idea!

I have some ropes and other gear that might help in getting down the ramp over the steps. I will need to get the help of the young stud who lives next door. Oh, to be young again. 



> Good Luck!
> 
> - nailbanger2


Appreciated.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.


Nice haul, Paul!

You will really enjoy using that saw!

I don't envy you in your endeavors to get it down to the dungeon. It is nice to have strapping young neighbors to help.
Most of them will work for pizza!

This is another of the many reasons why I have migrated over to hand tools - lots easier to haul up and down the stairs!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> Nice haul, Paul!


Thanks, Ed.



> You will really enjoy using that saw!


If I ever get it off its backside and onto its feet…



> I don t envy you in your endeavors to get it down to the dungeon. It is nice to have strapping young neighbors to help.
> 
> Most of them will work for pizza!


I ended up getting into the dungeon with the help of my wife and applied mechanics (otherwise known as 'trying not to do anything stupid'.) I have the feet back on, but now it's too heavy for me to lift and tip back up. Waiting for the young stud next door to come over from work. 



> This is another of the many reasons why I have migrated over to hand tools - lots easier to haul up and down the stairs!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Tell me about it. >_>

If I didn't need to run a business from the woodworking, I would have opted to go totally hand tools and take my time getting to where I want to be. Alas, the economy beckons, and my poor body must answer the call.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.


I hear ya… If I did my woodworking as a business venture, I, too, would be solely given over to sacrificing innocent electrons!

Keep us posted on your progress!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> I hear ya… If I did my woodworking as a business venture, I, too, would be solely given over to sacrificing innocent electrons!


Heh. If electrons had feeling I would be hated by many!



> Keep us posted on your progress!
> 
> - handsawgeek


I will, Ed. Thanks.


----------



## nailbanger2

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.


Paul, sorry you aren't up and running yet. As far as the gears, I don't have a dust collector , so I left the back off of the machine. I use a shopvac often, and anytime I have to change the angle or height a lot, I make sure they are dust free. The most annoying thing to me about the fence is the "whale's tail" at the end of it. I use a thin strip jig quite often, and when the board gets too narrow, the tail interferes with the operation. I have often thought of cutting the inboard side off. Don't get me wrong, the whole fence is troublesome, but I solved most of the problems with a homemade add on square to the table. And a Wixey digital angle gauge helps a lot.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> ... I, too, would be solely given over to sacrificing innocent electrons!





> Heh. If electrons had feeling I would be hated by many!


Electrons hate everybody - they are a wholly negative bunch!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> Paul, sorry you aren t up and running yet. As far as the gears, I don t have a dust collector , so I left the back off of the machine. I use a shopvac often, and anytime I have to change the angle or height a lot, I make sure they are dust free.


Thanks, but no worries. I've had micro-catastrophes along the way. Yesterday I got back into the project. Later today I will post update pictures of my progress.

I'm hoping the shop vac hookup will keep the gears enough to where I won't have to take the back panel off a lot for cleaning.



> The most annoying thing to me about the fence is the "whale s tail" at the end of it. I use a thin strip jig quite often, and when the board gets too narrow, the tail interferes with the operation. I have often thought of cutting the inboard side off. Don t get me wrong, the whole fence is troublesome, but I solved most of the problems with a homemade add on square to the table. And a Wixey digital angle gauge helps a lot.
> 
> - nailbanger2


I haven't gotten that far to experience the annoyance. An after-market fence is well beyond my current budget and I don't have the skill set or tools to make a better one, as yet. If I have to make an inner fence jig, that's fine. It can't be any worse than the Skilsaw fence on my other saw. I have hours into getting that to work well.

Thanks for the experience and tips. Appreciated!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition*
> 
> Last week I picked up a decent deal on a table saw that will be a marked improvement over the one I have in the dungeon workshop right now. It's a Hitachi C10FL that a widow's husband bought back in 2009. For those not familiar with the make and model, here is a manufacturer's marketing image of the machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis and legs on my acquisition look almost like brand new. The cast iron top is in need of some TLC and the accessory rails need a good cleaning. When I fired it up at the widow's garage, in the first split second it spun up with hardly a whisper, then made a wobbly-droning sound. At the time, I thought it was the impacted sawdust I could see from the opening of the dust collection port. Sawdust had caked over every surface within the chassis. The widow verified that she didn't think her late husband ever hooked up a shop vac to the port. She wasn't sure if he had a shop vac. I'm guessing: no. We were able to use an old house vac to get most of the sawdust out. Looked like band new in there. She said he hardly used it-never finished the deck he bought it for.
> 
> Her advertised price was $200 USD. She was comfortable with accepting $175.00 due to the noise problem. It took three of us to lift the saw sans legs onto the back of the truck. Because of the angle of their driveway, the tailgate was above my waist. I'm thankful I had the help to keep my back from spasming over lifting so much weight to that height.
> 
> Once home, the wife and I went South (with the Blazer) to a Harbor Freight store to pickup a hydraulic table lift. Only one left, and with the store sale and 20% off coupon, I got it for half the normal price. The only problem-and I anticipated this would happen-is that the small casters won't glide over the crusher run driveway surface. I have to think of some way to get it to the back entrance. But that's a later-on First World problem for now.
> 
> So what does it look like? Right now, in pieces, uncleaned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one that shows the condition of the cast iron top. It looks worse than it is. As far as I could tell, no pitting. It should clean up well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you ask, what's taking so long for me to get it together and into the dungeon? Parts. Remember earlier I mentioned the wobbly sound after startup? When I inspected the underside of the chassis I found that the pulley on the motor shaft was able to slide around on the shaft. The set screw for the pulley is missing. Fortunately, eReplacementparts.com has them in stock for a little over a buck a piece. While I was ordering, I decided to pick up two rubber feet that were missing from the stand and the outer safety switch paddle, which was also missing. A total of ten bucks. The package will arrive late today or tomorrow morning.
> 
> Now for the 'it's complicated' part. As well having to figure out how to get the hydraulic cart with 260 pounds of table saw across a basically dirt and rock driveway, I have to devise a set of ramps, and a safe means of lowering said cart, down the stone steps into the dungeon. I have ideas that should work for the steps. But you know how it is: everything is 'complicated' when the dungeon is involved.
> 
> I'll post follow-up picks when the saw is installed. Or maybe when the ramps are in. Or maybe the crash once we let it loose down the ramps.





> Electrons hate everybody - they are a wholly negative bunch!
> 
> - Ted Ewen


That they do. That they are.


----------



## retired_guru

*Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop -- cont'd*

My sinuses are giving me grief for not wearing a respirator in the dungeon today. I did put one on later in the day, but you know how that goes. I would never last as a coal miner. At any rate, another boring update, as I plow through the minutiae in the hope of saving my pack-rat soul from wherever pack-rats go when they pass on. Then again, who's to say there isn't a pack-rat heaven?

I finally got the bike (and some automotive) stuff sorted to trash, friend and keep-it boxes. This metal shelf unit didn't want to come apart as easily as the previous one. It's gone, ready to be recycled. The space is mine again.










Last night I took a good look at what I was up against in taking down the room's wooden walls. Today, after I removed the shelves, I realized that taking down the walls was going to set me back more time than I had to give to the project. Then there is the loss of usable wall space-what's left when the walls come down is field stone. So I have decided not to take the room apart, instead remove the window and inside shelves, which are on the verge of collapsing, clean out the space, remove the door (it doesn't close well and I really don't need a door there anyway), and call it enough. The window area will be filled in with pallet wood once it's removed.










With the shelves emptied and sorted, all that is left of the bicycling stuff is in the boxes you see here:










My friend was suppose to get together with me today and take what I didn't want. It turned out to be serendipitous that he couldn't make it. I wasn't ready for him. I will be tomorrow.

The rest of the junk will be gone by tomorrow or Friday.










This metal clothes closet has been a useless piece of sheet metal since long before it was put down here. It's going to the recyclers.










They say you can't know where you are going if you don't where you have been. So here I am looking back at where I was…and the mess I have made in sorting…and smiling because, well, it looks a lot better than it did before I became a Raider of the Lost Dungeon. Cheers.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop -- cont'd*
> 
> My sinuses are giving me grief for not wearing a respirator in the dungeon today. I did put one on later in the day, but you know how that goes. I would never last as a coal miner. At any rate, another boring update, as I plow through the minutiae in the hope of saving my pack-rat soul from wherever pack-rats go when they pass on. Then again, who's to say there isn't a pack-rat heaven?
> 
> I finally got the bike (and some automotive) stuff sorted to trash, friend and keep-it boxes. This metal shelf unit didn't want to come apart as easily as the previous one. It's gone, ready to be recycled. The space is mine again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last night I took a good look at what I was up against in taking down the room's wooden walls. Today, after I removed the shelves, I realized that taking down the walls was going to set me back more time than I had to give to the project. Then there is the loss of usable wall space-what's left when the walls come down is field stone. So I have decided not to take the room apart, instead remove the window and inside shelves, which are on the verge of collapsing, clean out the space, remove the door (it doesn't close well and I really don't need a door there anyway), and call it enough. The window area will be filled in with pallet wood once it's removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shelves emptied and sorted, all that is left of the bicycling stuff is in the boxes you see here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend was suppose to get together with me today and take what I didn't want. It turned out to be serendipitous that he couldn't make it. I wasn't ready for him. I will be tomorrow.
> 
> The rest of the junk will be gone by tomorrow or Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This metal clothes closet has been a useless piece of sheet metal since long before it was put down here. It's going to the recyclers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They say you can't know where you are going if you don't where you have been. So here I am looking back at where I was…and the mess I have made in sorting…and smiling because, well, it looks a lot better than it did before I became a Raider of the Lost Dungeon. Cheers.


Paul,
I see you are still at it re. your clear-out.
Before you throw out your metal closet here's a thought.
In my experience it was standard to keep all our finishing materials, particularly flammables, within just such a storage container (metal).
Fit a hasp and padlock and you have a ready-made secure unit.
Just a thought…...
P.S. your saw looks like an excellent aquisition.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop -- cont'd*
> 
> My sinuses are giving me grief for not wearing a respirator in the dungeon today. I did put one on later in the day, but you know how that goes. I would never last as a coal miner. At any rate, another boring update, as I plow through the minutiae in the hope of saving my pack-rat soul from wherever pack-rats go when they pass on. Then again, who's to say there isn't a pack-rat heaven?
> 
> I finally got the bike (and some automotive) stuff sorted to trash, friend and keep-it boxes. This metal shelf unit didn't want to come apart as easily as the previous one. It's gone, ready to be recycled. The space is mine again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last night I took a good look at what I was up against in taking down the room's wooden walls. Today, after I removed the shelves, I realized that taking down the walls was going to set me back more time than I had to give to the project. Then there is the loss of usable wall space-what's left when the walls come down is field stone. So I have decided not to take the room apart, instead remove the window and inside shelves, which are on the verge of collapsing, clean out the space, remove the door (it doesn't close well and I really don't need a door there anyway), and call it enough. The window area will be filled in with pallet wood once it's removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shelves emptied and sorted, all that is left of the bicycling stuff is in the boxes you see here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend was suppose to get together with me today and take what I didn't want. It turned out to be serendipitous that he couldn't make it. I wasn't ready for him. I will be tomorrow.
> 
> The rest of the junk will be gone by tomorrow or Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This metal clothes closet has been a useless piece of sheet metal since long before it was put down here. It's going to the recyclers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They say you can't know where you are going if you don't where you have been. So here I am looking back at where I was…and the mess I have made in sorting…and smiling because, well, it looks a lot better than it did before I became a Raider of the Lost Dungeon. Cheers.


It feels like I will never to come to end of it, Jinky.

I would keep the steel closet if the metal was heavier and it had more than the one shelf at the top. This was a really cheap unit when we bought it decades ago. You can press your fingers into and it warps from the pressure. The doors are flimsy, too. It wouldn't be air-tight enough for proper hazard storage.


----------



## retired_guru

*And then the table saw automagically appeared!*

When I last left you in the previous episode, Nelly couldn't pay the rent and…

Sorry, wrong blog.

With the South dungeon space freed up some, and the parts to the table saw having come in, it was time to get the Hitachi C11FL out of the truck and into workshop. The same day I bought the saw I went to a Harbor Freight store and bought a hydraulic lift table. It was a pricey investment that I knew would be used again and again with the thickness planer later on.

The ordered parts for the saw came in yesterday.










Now it was time to get the saw off the truck.










My wife's 40+ year old college blanket gave itself up for a higher cause, perfect for my need.










I mentioned an earlier blog entry how the inside of the chassis was impacted with sawdust. With most all of it removed, you can see that the interior is like new.










I also mentioned that the reason for the parts order was to acquire a motor pulley set screw. I'm guessing, by how lose all the bolts were on the saw when I disassembled it, that the previous owner didn't bother to tighten the set screw before using it and lost it over time. As far as I can see and feel, there appears to be no play in the keyway or on the shaft. Maybe this is why he stopped using it? The vibration when I started it up would scare any sane woodworker away.

One of the weaknesses with this particular model saw is the use of plastic gears. The following pictures show the condition of the various gears. I think I got lucky.




























The combination of hydraulic table and blanket were in perfect harmony. I was able to slide the saw off the tailgate and onto the raised table. Here it is lowered and ready to traverse the plywood highway.










And automagically it appeared in the dungeon!










Two 1"x6"x8' boards were laid across the steps, top to bottom, spaced enough apart for me to walk between them and still provide a sliding surface for the saw. The blanket was, once again, the perfect tool on getting the saw safely down the steps. I had the wife hold onto the hydraulic table on the platform while I eased it over the first step and moderated its momentum as it slid toward me and downward. I then carried the table down, over it, and in front of it so I could slide the saw back onto the table.

With the truck empty, I can use it again, taking my time assembling the saw and getting it setup for a space in the workshop. I didn't even hurt myself. Imagine that!

Of course, nothing comes to me without a price…










Didn't I just clear out that spot?

<<sigh>>


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *And then the table saw automagically appeared!*
> 
> When I last left you in the previous episode, Nelly couldn't pay the rent and…
> 
> Sorry, wrong blog.
> 
> With the South dungeon space freed up some, and the parts to the table saw having come in, it was time to get the Hitachi C11FL out of the truck and into workshop. The same day I bought the saw I went to a Harbor Freight store and bought a hydraulic lift table. It was a pricey investment that I knew would be used again and again with the thickness planer later on.
> 
> The ordered parts for the saw came in yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to get the saw off the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife's 40+ year old college blanket gave itself up for a higher cause, perfect for my need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mentioned an earlier blog entry how the inside of the chassis was impacted with sawdust. With most all of it removed, you can see that the interior is like new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also mentioned that the reason for the parts order was to acquire a motor pulley set screw. I'm guessing, by how lose all the bolts were on the saw when I disassembled it, that the previous owner didn't bother to tighten the set screw before using it and lost it over time. As far as I can see and feel, there appears to be no play in the keyway or on the shaft. Maybe this is why he stopped using it? The vibration when I started it up would scare any sane woodworker away.
> 
> One of the weaknesses with this particular model saw is the use of plastic gears. The following pictures show the condition of the various gears. I think I got lucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The combination of hydraulic table and blanket were in perfect harmony. I was able to slide the saw off the tailgate and onto the raised table. Here it is lowered and ready to traverse the plywood highway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And automagically it appeared in the dungeon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two 1"x6"x8' boards were laid across the steps, top to bottom, spaced enough apart for me to walk between them and still provide a sliding surface for the saw. The blanket was, once again, the perfect tool on getting the saw safely down the steps. I had the wife hold onto the hydraulic table on the platform while I eased it over the first step and moderated its momentum as it slid toward me and downward. I then carried the table down, over it, and in front of it so I could slide the saw back onto the table.
> 
> With the truck empty, I can use it again, taking my time assembling the saw and getting it setup for a space in the workshop. I didn't even hurt myself. Imagine that!
> 
> Of course, nothing comes to me without a price…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't I just clear out that spot?
> 
> <<sigh>>


Paul, you need to write a book entitled, "Why Did I Ever Take Up Woodworking as a Hobby?" or perhaps the "Perils of Paul". Seriously, I am glad your new saw made it to the dungeon without mishap.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *And then the table saw automagically appeared!*
> 
> When I last left you in the previous episode, Nelly couldn't pay the rent and…
> 
> Sorry, wrong blog.
> 
> With the South dungeon space freed up some, and the parts to the table saw having come in, it was time to get the Hitachi C11FL out of the truck and into workshop. The same day I bought the saw I went to a Harbor Freight store and bought a hydraulic lift table. It was a pricey investment that I knew would be used again and again with the thickness planer later on.
> 
> The ordered parts for the saw came in yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to get the saw off the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife's 40+ year old college blanket gave itself up for a higher cause, perfect for my need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mentioned an earlier blog entry how the inside of the chassis was impacted with sawdust. With most all of it removed, you can see that the interior is like new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also mentioned that the reason for the parts order was to acquire a motor pulley set screw. I'm guessing, by how lose all the bolts were on the saw when I disassembled it, that the previous owner didn't bother to tighten the set screw before using it and lost it over time. As far as I can see and feel, there appears to be no play in the keyway or on the shaft. Maybe this is why he stopped using it? The vibration when I started it up would scare any sane woodworker away.
> 
> One of the weaknesses with this particular model saw is the use of plastic gears. The following pictures show the condition of the various gears. I think I got lucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The combination of hydraulic table and blanket were in perfect harmony. I was able to slide the saw off the tailgate and onto the raised table. Here it is lowered and ready to traverse the plywood highway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And automagically it appeared in the dungeon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two 1"x6"x8' boards were laid across the steps, top to bottom, spaced enough apart for me to walk between them and still provide a sliding surface for the saw. The blanket was, once again, the perfect tool on getting the saw safely down the steps. I had the wife hold onto the hydraulic table on the platform while I eased it over the first step and moderated its momentum as it slid toward me and downward. I then carried the table down, over it, and in front of it so I could slide the saw back onto the table.
> 
> With the truck empty, I can use it again, taking my time assembling the saw and getting it setup for a space in the workshop. I didn't even hurt myself. Imagine that!
> 
> Of course, nothing comes to me without a price…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't I just clear out that spot?
> 
> <<sigh>>





> Paul, you need to write a book entitled, "Why Did I Ever Take Up Woodworking as a Hobby?" or perhaps the "Perils of Paul". Seriously, I am glad your new saw made it to the dungeon without mishap.
> 
> - luv2learn


No pain, no gain! 

Thanks, Lee.


----------



## retired_guru

*Hitachi C10FL Acquisition - Part 2*

A week has gone by since my previous post. In that time I have made some progress. Several days ago I figured out a way to get it into the dungeon. A couple of days ago I added back the steel base stand, moved the retractable casters to their correct location on the legs-the previous owner really didn't know what he was doing in assembling and running this saw-and managed to gently tip it off the hydraulic table and onto its side, then lift it onto its legs…all by myself. No Paul Bucalos were injured in the resurrecting of this saw!

Then last night I got to work on the cast iron top. Unfortunately, there has been some pitting. Fortunately, it shouldn't affect the operation of the saw.




























The dark spots are the pitted, stained areas. Not deep. I probably could work them out with some polishing. I'm more concerned with wearing dips into the top. So far I have worked it with 120 grit emery cloth wrapped and tacked to a wood block, coarse steel wool, and Scotchbrite. All of this done with PB Blaster rust remover as the cleaning agent. The top feels very smooth to the touch. Later today I will work with finer grits of wet/dry sanding sheets against a block. Maybe that will do it.

In the assembling of the stand to the base, I found one of the retractable casters was missing two of the three bolts that mounted it to the leg: a trip to the box store for them. I was surprised to see the casters mounted on the wrong face of each legs. They were 90 degrees off, so that the casters protruded from front and back instead of on the left and right sides.

It's obvious to me the previous owner of the saw hadn't assembled the saw well and wasn't up on setting it up correctly. The time I am taking now to assembled and adjust would offset all of that. So far, nothing is broken and nothing critical is missing. Whether the top is aligned with the blade…that has yet to be seen.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition - Part 2*
> 
> A week has gone by since my previous post. In that time I have made some progress. Several days ago I figured out a way to get it into the dungeon. A couple of days ago I added back the steel base stand, moved the retractable casters to their correct location on the legs-the previous owner really didn't know what he was doing in assembling and running this saw-and managed to gently tip it off the hydraulic table and onto its side, then lift it onto its legs…all by myself. No Paul Bucalos were injured in the resurrecting of this saw!
> 
> Then last night I got to work on the cast iron top. Unfortunately, there has been some pitting. Fortunately, it shouldn't affect the operation of the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dark spots are the pitted, stained areas. Not deep. I probably could work them out with some polishing. I'm more concerned with wearing dips into the top. So far I have worked it with 120 grit emery cloth wrapped and tacked to a wood block, coarse steel wool, and Scotchbrite. All of this done with PB Blaster rust remover as the cleaning agent. The top feels very smooth to the touch. Later today I will work with finer grits of wet/dry sanding sheets against a block. Maybe that will do it.
> 
> In the assembling of the stand to the base, I found one of the retractable casters was missing two of the three bolts that mounted it to the leg: a trip to the box store for them. I was surprised to see the casters mounted on the wrong face of each legs. They were 90 degrees off, so that the casters protruded from front and back instead of on the left and right sides.
> 
> It's obvious to me the previous owner of the saw hadn't assembled the saw well and wasn't up on setting it up correctly. The time I am taking now to assembled and adjust would offset all of that. So far, nothing is broken and nothing critical is missing. Whether the top is aligned with the blade…that has yet to be seen.


Your new saw will reward you for setting it up properly Paul. LOL!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition - Part 2*
> 
> A week has gone by since my previous post. In that time I have made some progress. Several days ago I figured out a way to get it into the dungeon. A couple of days ago I added back the steel base stand, moved the retractable casters to their correct location on the legs-the previous owner really didn't know what he was doing in assembling and running this saw-and managed to gently tip it off the hydraulic table and onto its side, then lift it onto its legs…all by myself. No Paul Bucalos were injured in the resurrecting of this saw!
> 
> Then last night I got to work on the cast iron top. Unfortunately, there has been some pitting. Fortunately, it shouldn't affect the operation of the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dark spots are the pitted, stained areas. Not deep. I probably could work them out with some polishing. I'm more concerned with wearing dips into the top. So far I have worked it with 120 grit emery cloth wrapped and tacked to a wood block, coarse steel wool, and Scotchbrite. All of this done with PB Blaster rust remover as the cleaning agent. The top feels very smooth to the touch. Later today I will work with finer grits of wet/dry sanding sheets against a block. Maybe that will do it.
> 
> In the assembling of the stand to the base, I found one of the retractable casters was missing two of the three bolts that mounted it to the leg: a trip to the box store for them. I was surprised to see the casters mounted on the wrong face of each legs. They were 90 degrees off, so that the casters protruded from front and back instead of on the left and right sides.
> 
> It's obvious to me the previous owner of the saw hadn't assembled the saw well and wasn't up on setting it up correctly. The time I am taking now to assembled and adjust would offset all of that. So far, nothing is broken and nothing critical is missing. Whether the top is aligned with the blade…that has yet to be seen.


I'm counting on it, Lee! Earlier today I did a little fine sanding, then cleaned, dried and applied two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. I was going to finish it up today, decided to go with wife on a doctor appointment instead. Tomorrow. We'll see if it cuts wood straight tomorrow.


----------



## retired_guru

*Hitachi C10FL Acquisition - Part 3 (Assembled)*

Assembly was finished late this afternoon. Tests showed I could achieve 90 degree accuracy between blade and table top, but from front to back of the blade in relation to the miter slots I was at least a sixteenth off in the back. Still some vibration after startup. Not having been run for a year has made some of the pivots a little stiff. As it was, I had to lube the angle pivots. A little more TLC. The manual doesn't explain how to deal with blade to miter slot adjustment. A search on the Web brought me to a forum post that reiterated what Hitachi told him: four bolts holding the trunnion to the bottom of the top need to be loosened and the assembly moved as needed. Typical. Tomorrow. I'm done for this day.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition - Part 3 (Assembled)*
> 
> Assembly was finished late this afternoon. Tests showed I could achieve 90 degree accuracy between blade and table top, but from front to back of the blade in relation to the miter slots I was at least a sixteenth off in the back. Still some vibration after startup. Not having been run for a year has made some of the pivots a little stiff. As it was, I had to lube the angle pivots. A little more TLC. The manual doesn't explain how to deal with blade to miter slot adjustment. A search on the Web brought me to a forum post that reiterated what Hitachi told him: four bolts holding the trunnion to the bottom of the top need to be loosened and the assembly moved as needed. Typical. Tomorrow. I'm done for this day.


Nice job of restoring your table saw Paul. It looks new. A little more tweaking and you are done.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hitachi C10FL Acquisition - Part 3 (Assembled)*
> 
> Assembly was finished late this afternoon. Tests showed I could achieve 90 degree accuracy between blade and table top, but from front to back of the blade in relation to the miter slots I was at least a sixteenth off in the back. Still some vibration after startup. Not having been run for a year has made some of the pivots a little stiff. As it was, I had to lube the angle pivots. A little more TLC. The manual doesn't explain how to deal with blade to miter slot adjustment. A search on the Web brought me to a forum post that reiterated what Hitachi told him: four bolts holding the trunnion to the bottom of the top need to be loosened and the assembly moved as needed. Typical. Tomorrow. I'm done for this day.


Thanks, Lee.


----------



## retired_guru

*Seasoned Maple Boards*

A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.

Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.










I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.










Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.










Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.



















This is what is left to mill. Another day.










And these are the leftovers.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.


Can't wait to see what cool projects you will create with these boards.


----------



## MadJester

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.


Beautiful wood….


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.





> Can t wait to see what cool projects you will create with these boards.
> 
> - luv2learn


My wife has asked me several times what I am going to do with the wood. I have a promised band saw box to make for a friend, long overdue, needing a contrasting color to the black cherry I will be using. If I can find a four inch section that doesn't have any checking in it, that much is promised to be used. The extensive checking would keep these out of fine furniture. But since I don't know how to make fine furniture, everything else is a possibility.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.





> Beautiful wood….
> 
> - MadJester


The grain is something else, Sue. I think I made out well this time.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.


Hey, Paul, Nice haul (That rhymes, doesn't it?)
I'm sure you'll find plenty of uses for that stack. Very nice grain figure!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.





> Hey, Paul, Nice haul (That rhymes, doesn t it?)
> I m sure you ll find plenty of uses for that stack. Very nice grain figure!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. Hahaha, yes it does.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.


Paul,
looks like a bargain, even given the checking, 
and ideal for your proposed project.
As to your comment about about fine furniture making.
"Belt-Up"...... and enjoy the ride.
Cheers, Jinky (James).


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.


Paul,
I was checking through my recent posts and noticed an error in my last submission.
I was trying to incorporate your comment about fine furniture making into my post, 
but was unable to do so as Technology can get the better of me.
And I appear to have deleted a full sentence from my post.
It should read; 
"As to your comment about fine furniture making.
The steps you have taken recently are leading you down that road.
"Belt-Up"......and enjoy the ride.
I hope that makes more sense.
Cheers, Jinky (James).
P.S. I will use the Preview option more often in future.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seasoned Maple Boards*
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I picked up twelve 8' 4" boards (various widths and somewhere around an inch-plus in thickness) for $2.00 USD each. The seller had 18 to sell and his advertisement said must buy all. It didn't take long to see that some were rotted completely or enough that they wouldn't ever be useful. The twelve I found would yield a good 80% or more, so I talked him into the price each for only twelve. I didn't think that was a bad price.
> 
> Here's are seven of the original twelve. This gives you a good idea of which definition of 'seasoned' was used by the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed off the rot and cross-cut boards where warpage started. Every board was thoroughly steel brushed before running through the planer. Boards over 6 ft. longer were cut in half, since there isn't enough room in the dungeon to run a longer board through the planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the boards were brought down to 7/8", with some at 3/4" thickness. Some boards were cupped enough to warrant a thinner milling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the boards were heavily checked throughout the grain, yet they were quite solid. I'm sure I can find some applications for these still quite sturdy boards. Grain detail is gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left to mill. Another day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these are the leftovers.





> Paul,
> I was checking through my recent posts and noticed an error in my last submission.
> I was trying to incorporate your comment about fine furniture making into my post,
> but was unable to do so as Technology can get the better of me.
> And I appear to have deleted a full sentence from my post.
> It should read;
> "As to your comment about fine furniture making.
> The steps you have taken recently are leading you down that road.
> "Belt-Up"......and enjoy the ride.
> I hope that makes more sense.
> Cheers, Jinky (James).
> P.S. I will use the Preview option more often in future.
> 
> - jinkyjock


Jinky, I always appreciate your interaction and comments left on my posts. I have a lot of pressures here, some having nothing to do with woodworking, and in the end, I need to 'suck it up, Marine!'


----------



## retired_guru

*Table Saw Adjustments and Miter Saw Station*

Just a quick update on several issues that have been forcing all of my attention.

*Hitachi C10FL Table Saw Issues*
I mentioned earlier that the saw had been neglected for a while and so there was a lot of cleaning, adjusting and correcting to so. Tonight I managed to resolve some of the vibration and noise issues when running it. When I previously adjusted the blade direction to be parallel to the left miter slot, I didn't pay attention to the back trunnion support's relationship with the trunnion. Not only can I adjust the support side to side, but also front to back. I had it spaced out from the trunnion allowing it to bang front to back. My bad. That's been resolved. I also checked the belt tension while running, looking in from the opened back side. It tracks straight and doesn't show any wobble. The motor isn't hanging up when I lift up on it. Whatever is causing the vibration will have to wait for a later date.

The front measurement scale on the right side for the fence is as accurate with the true cutting capacity as the eye can see. Cuts appear to be cleaner than before and a square shows no light on the cross-sections. I think this is as good as it's going to get with the environment I have to work in.

I posted a question in the forums here about correct table height for each person, as if there was a formula or rule of thumb. So far no one came up with anything on that, but good thoughts were passed my way. Tonight I spent some time thinking about whether the height was really an obstacle I needed to hurdle or if this was just a matter of mind over matter. I think the latter will be the case. I still don't like my arm being above the blade when pushing stock past the splitter. Since this table top is also deeper as well as higher than the cheap contractor saw I have, it stands to reason that my short arms are the issue.

The last matter is dust collection. The dust collection port at the bottom is for a 4" attachment. I need a 4" to 2-1/4" reducer to fit the hoses coming off my shop vac. Harbor Freight has one for $4.00. This weekend the wife and may be heading down that way for a movie, in which case I'll swing by and pick up one. Otherwise, I'll order it and wait the ten days to have it get here. Why not get one from Rockler? Ten dollars more there, plus even more shipping, and…it will still take more than a week to get here. I sometimes shake my head at how in today's world wide operations it still take Pony Express speeds to get things here from a hop, skip and a jump away. Go figure. So for now, I have the back panel off the chassis and I vacuum out on occasion.

Tomorrow I work on building a miter saw station. I decided to remove the door to the small room I mentioned before and building to fit a replacement that will have an alcove for the back side of the miter saw to fit into. This will allow the working end of the sliding miter saw to be on the bench, meaning I can keep the bench shallow in depth, running left and right of it for the width of the wood wall. This will cut down on the dust (I will have a dust port at the bottom of the plywood alcove for the vac) as well as save space. More on that after it's built.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Adjustments and Miter Saw Station*
> 
> Just a quick update on several issues that have been forcing all of my attention.
> 
> *Hitachi C10FL Table Saw Issues*
> I mentioned earlier that the saw had been neglected for a while and so there was a lot of cleaning, adjusting and correcting to so. Tonight I managed to resolve some of the vibration and noise issues when running it. When I previously adjusted the blade direction to be parallel to the left miter slot, I didn't pay attention to the back trunnion support's relationship with the trunnion. Not only can I adjust the support side to side, but also front to back. I had it spaced out from the trunnion allowing it to bang front to back. My bad. That's been resolved. I also checked the belt tension while running, looking in from the opened back side. It tracks straight and doesn't show any wobble. The motor isn't hanging up when I lift up on it. Whatever is causing the vibration will have to wait for a later date.
> 
> The front measurement scale on the right side for the fence is as accurate with the true cutting capacity as the eye can see. Cuts appear to be cleaner than before and a square shows no light on the cross-sections. I think this is as good as it's going to get with the environment I have to work in.
> 
> I posted a question in the forums here about correct table height for each person, as if there was a formula or rule of thumb. So far no one came up with anything on that, but good thoughts were passed my way. Tonight I spent some time thinking about whether the height was really an obstacle I needed to hurdle or if this was just a matter of mind over matter. I think the latter will be the case. I still don't like my arm being above the blade when pushing stock past the splitter. Since this table top is also deeper as well as higher than the cheap contractor saw I have, it stands to reason that my short arms are the issue.
> 
> The last matter is dust collection. The dust collection port at the bottom is for a 4" attachment. I need a 4" to 2-1/4" reducer to fit the hoses coming off my shop vac. Harbor Freight has one for $4.00. This weekend the wife and may be heading down that way for a movie, in which case I'll swing by and pick up one. Otherwise, I'll order it and wait the ten days to have it get here. Why not get one from Rockler? Ten dollars more there, plus even more shipping, and…it will still take more than a week to get here. I sometimes shake my head at how in today's world wide operations it still take Pony Express speeds to get things here from a hop, skip and a jump away. Go figure. So for now, I have the back panel off the chassis and I vacuum out on occasion.
> 
> Tomorrow I work on building a miter saw station. I decided to remove the door to the small room I mentioned before and building to fit a replacement that will have an alcove for the back side of the miter saw to fit into. This will allow the working end of the sliding miter saw to be on the bench, meaning I can keep the bench shallow in depth, running left and right of it for the width of the wood wall. This will cut down on the dust (I will have a dust port at the bottom of the plywood alcove for the vac) as well as save space. More on that after it's built.


There may be another thing that causes some vibration. Sometimes the belt cause it. Try to spray silicon (just the automotive type is fine) on the belt. Running if you can safely do that. If not several places and then run a while.

I use this on vehicle belts all the time to keep squeals etc. and run smoother too.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Adjustments and Miter Saw Station*
> 
> Just a quick update on several issues that have been forcing all of my attention.
> 
> *Hitachi C10FL Table Saw Issues*
> I mentioned earlier that the saw had been neglected for a while and so there was a lot of cleaning, adjusting and correcting to so. Tonight I managed to resolve some of the vibration and noise issues when running it. When I previously adjusted the blade direction to be parallel to the left miter slot, I didn't pay attention to the back trunnion support's relationship with the trunnion. Not only can I adjust the support side to side, but also front to back. I had it spaced out from the trunnion allowing it to bang front to back. My bad. That's been resolved. I also checked the belt tension while running, looking in from the opened back side. It tracks straight and doesn't show any wobble. The motor isn't hanging up when I lift up on it. Whatever is causing the vibration will have to wait for a later date.
> 
> The front measurement scale on the right side for the fence is as accurate with the true cutting capacity as the eye can see. Cuts appear to be cleaner than before and a square shows no light on the cross-sections. I think this is as good as it's going to get with the environment I have to work in.
> 
> I posted a question in the forums here about correct table height for each person, as if there was a formula or rule of thumb. So far no one came up with anything on that, but good thoughts were passed my way. Tonight I spent some time thinking about whether the height was really an obstacle I needed to hurdle or if this was just a matter of mind over matter. I think the latter will be the case. I still don't like my arm being above the blade when pushing stock past the splitter. Since this table top is also deeper as well as higher than the cheap contractor saw I have, it stands to reason that my short arms are the issue.
> 
> The last matter is dust collection. The dust collection port at the bottom is for a 4" attachment. I need a 4" to 2-1/4" reducer to fit the hoses coming off my shop vac. Harbor Freight has one for $4.00. This weekend the wife and may be heading down that way for a movie, in which case I'll swing by and pick up one. Otherwise, I'll order it and wait the ten days to have it get here. Why not get one from Rockler? Ten dollars more there, plus even more shipping, and…it will still take more than a week to get here. I sometimes shake my head at how in today's world wide operations it still take Pony Express speeds to get things here from a hop, skip and a jump away. Go figure. So for now, I have the back panel off the chassis and I vacuum out on occasion.
> 
> Tomorrow I work on building a miter saw station. I decided to remove the door to the small room I mentioned before and building to fit a replacement that will have an alcove for the back side of the miter saw to fit into. This will allow the working end of the sliding miter saw to be on the bench, meaning I can keep the bench shallow in depth, running left and right of it for the width of the wood wall. This will cut down on the dust (I will have a dust port at the bottom of the plywood alcove for the vac) as well as save space. More on that after it's built.





> There may be another thing that causes some vibration. Sometimes the belt cause it. Try to spray silicon (just the automotive type is fine) on the belt. Running if you can safely do that. If not several places and then run a while.
> 
> I use this on vehicle belts all the time to keep squeals etc. and run smoother too.
> 
> - ralbuck


My first thought on this was the belt not tracking right (I didn't have the motor pulley correctly on the shaft) or slipping from the motor bouncing up and down or just not pulling the belt tight. I ran the saw while looking at it from the back side using a trouble light. (Yes, I was smart enough to stay outside of the chassis) and the belt ran so smooth I couldn't tell it was running. I'm thinking there is play in the trunnion or a dry bearing. The blade cannot be moved side to side, so…I just don't know. Maybe I am expecting too much from it. :/


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Adjustments and Miter Saw Station*
> 
> Just a quick update on several issues that have been forcing all of my attention.
> 
> *Hitachi C10FL Table Saw Issues*
> I mentioned earlier that the saw had been neglected for a while and so there was a lot of cleaning, adjusting and correcting to so. Tonight I managed to resolve some of the vibration and noise issues when running it. When I previously adjusted the blade direction to be parallel to the left miter slot, I didn't pay attention to the back trunnion support's relationship with the trunnion. Not only can I adjust the support side to side, but also front to back. I had it spaced out from the trunnion allowing it to bang front to back. My bad. That's been resolved. I also checked the belt tension while running, looking in from the opened back side. It tracks straight and doesn't show any wobble. The motor isn't hanging up when I lift up on it. Whatever is causing the vibration will have to wait for a later date.
> 
> The front measurement scale on the right side for the fence is as accurate with the true cutting capacity as the eye can see. Cuts appear to be cleaner than before and a square shows no light on the cross-sections. I think this is as good as it's going to get with the environment I have to work in.
> 
> I posted a question in the forums here about correct table height for each person, as if there was a formula or rule of thumb. So far no one came up with anything on that, but good thoughts were passed my way. Tonight I spent some time thinking about whether the height was really an obstacle I needed to hurdle or if this was just a matter of mind over matter. I think the latter will be the case. I still don't like my arm being above the blade when pushing stock past the splitter. Since this table top is also deeper as well as higher than the cheap contractor saw I have, it stands to reason that my short arms are the issue.
> 
> The last matter is dust collection. The dust collection port at the bottom is for a 4" attachment. I need a 4" to 2-1/4" reducer to fit the hoses coming off my shop vac. Harbor Freight has one for $4.00. This weekend the wife and may be heading down that way for a movie, in which case I'll swing by and pick up one. Otherwise, I'll order it and wait the ten days to have it get here. Why not get one from Rockler? Ten dollars more there, plus even more shipping, and…it will still take more than a week to get here. I sometimes shake my head at how in today's world wide operations it still take Pony Express speeds to get things here from a hop, skip and a jump away. Go figure. So for now, I have the back panel off the chassis and I vacuum out on occasion.
> 
> Tomorrow I work on building a miter saw station. I decided to remove the door to the small room I mentioned before and building to fit a replacement that will have an alcove for the back side of the miter saw to fit into. This will allow the working end of the sliding miter saw to be on the bench, meaning I can keep the bench shallow in depth, running left and right of it for the width of the wood wall. This will cut down on the dust (I will have a dust port at the bottom of the plywood alcove for the vac) as well as save space. More on that after it's built.





> There may be another thing that causes some vibration. Sometimes the belt cause it.
> - ralbuck


Tomorrow I am going to measure the circumference of the v-belt and order the appropriate length of Power Twist Plus V-Belt to replace it. You may be right about the vibration coming from the belt. Who knows how long it has been run without the motor pulley seat screw on? The belt may be slipping enough to cause the problem. If anything, the Power Twist Plus should quite it down and make it run quieter.


----------



## CO_Goose

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Adjustments and Miter Saw Station*
> 
> Just a quick update on several issues that have been forcing all of my attention.
> 
> *Hitachi C10FL Table Saw Issues*
> I mentioned earlier that the saw had been neglected for a while and so there was a lot of cleaning, adjusting and correcting to so. Tonight I managed to resolve some of the vibration and noise issues when running it. When I previously adjusted the blade direction to be parallel to the left miter slot, I didn't pay attention to the back trunnion support's relationship with the trunnion. Not only can I adjust the support side to side, but also front to back. I had it spaced out from the trunnion allowing it to bang front to back. My bad. That's been resolved. I also checked the belt tension while running, looking in from the opened back side. It tracks straight and doesn't show any wobble. The motor isn't hanging up when I lift up on it. Whatever is causing the vibration will have to wait for a later date.
> 
> The front measurement scale on the right side for the fence is as accurate with the true cutting capacity as the eye can see. Cuts appear to be cleaner than before and a square shows no light on the cross-sections. I think this is as good as it's going to get with the environment I have to work in.
> 
> I posted a question in the forums here about correct table height for each person, as if there was a formula or rule of thumb. So far no one came up with anything on that, but good thoughts were passed my way. Tonight I spent some time thinking about whether the height was really an obstacle I needed to hurdle or if this was just a matter of mind over matter. I think the latter will be the case. I still don't like my arm being above the blade when pushing stock past the splitter. Since this table top is also deeper as well as higher than the cheap contractor saw I have, it stands to reason that my short arms are the issue.
> 
> The last matter is dust collection. The dust collection port at the bottom is for a 4" attachment. I need a 4" to 2-1/4" reducer to fit the hoses coming off my shop vac. Harbor Freight has one for $4.00. This weekend the wife and may be heading down that way for a movie, in which case I'll swing by and pick up one. Otherwise, I'll order it and wait the ten days to have it get here. Why not get one from Rockler? Ten dollars more there, plus even more shipping, and…it will still take more than a week to get here. I sometimes shake my head at how in today's world wide operations it still take Pony Express speeds to get things here from a hop, skip and a jump away. Go figure. So for now, I have the back panel off the chassis and I vacuum out on occasion.
> 
> Tomorrow I work on building a miter saw station. I decided to remove the door to the small room I mentioned before and building to fit a replacement that will have an alcove for the back side of the miter saw to fit into. This will allow the working end of the sliding miter saw to be on the bench, meaning I can keep the bench shallow in depth, running left and right of it for the width of the wood wall. This will cut down on the dust (I will have a dust port at the bottom of the plywood alcove for the vac) as well as save space. More on that after it's built.


Another cause of vibration is the V-Belt having a "set" to it. In other words, the belt develops a memory of being on the pulleys, and that tight radius, and then that causes a bump twice a revolution of the belt. You might want to look into the "link-belt" it is a series of interwoven pieces that do not have the V-Belt memory issues. You can also get it at Harbor Freight, since it looks like you are headed there anyway. 
http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Table Saw Adjustments and Miter Saw Station*
> 
> Just a quick update on several issues that have been forcing all of my attention.
> 
> *Hitachi C10FL Table Saw Issues*
> I mentioned earlier that the saw had been neglected for a while and so there was a lot of cleaning, adjusting and correcting to so. Tonight I managed to resolve some of the vibration and noise issues when running it. When I previously adjusted the blade direction to be parallel to the left miter slot, I didn't pay attention to the back trunnion support's relationship with the trunnion. Not only can I adjust the support side to side, but also front to back. I had it spaced out from the trunnion allowing it to bang front to back. My bad. That's been resolved. I also checked the belt tension while running, looking in from the opened back side. It tracks straight and doesn't show any wobble. The motor isn't hanging up when I lift up on it. Whatever is causing the vibration will have to wait for a later date.
> 
> The front measurement scale on the right side for the fence is as accurate with the true cutting capacity as the eye can see. Cuts appear to be cleaner than before and a square shows no light on the cross-sections. I think this is as good as it's going to get with the environment I have to work in.
> 
> I posted a question in the forums here about correct table height for each person, as if there was a formula or rule of thumb. So far no one came up with anything on that, but good thoughts were passed my way. Tonight I spent some time thinking about whether the height was really an obstacle I needed to hurdle or if this was just a matter of mind over matter. I think the latter will be the case. I still don't like my arm being above the blade when pushing stock past the splitter. Since this table top is also deeper as well as higher than the cheap contractor saw I have, it stands to reason that my short arms are the issue.
> 
> The last matter is dust collection. The dust collection port at the bottom is for a 4" attachment. I need a 4" to 2-1/4" reducer to fit the hoses coming off my shop vac. Harbor Freight has one for $4.00. This weekend the wife and may be heading down that way for a movie, in which case I'll swing by and pick up one. Otherwise, I'll order it and wait the ten days to have it get here. Why not get one from Rockler? Ten dollars more there, plus even more shipping, and…it will still take more than a week to get here. I sometimes shake my head at how in today's world wide operations it still take Pony Express speeds to get things here from a hop, skip and a jump away. Go figure. So for now, I have the back panel off the chassis and I vacuum out on occasion.
> 
> Tomorrow I work on building a miter saw station. I decided to remove the door to the small room I mentioned before and building to fit a replacement that will have an alcove for the back side of the miter saw to fit into. This will allow the working end of the sliding miter saw to be on the bench, meaning I can keep the bench shallow in depth, running left and right of it for the width of the wood wall. This will cut down on the dust (I will have a dust port at the bottom of the plywood alcove for the vac) as well as save space. More on that after it's built.





> Another cause of vibration is the V-Belt having a "set" to it. In other words, the belt develops a memory of being on the pulleys, and that tight radius, and then that causes a bump twice a revolution of the belt. You might want to look into the "link-belt" it is a series of interwoven pieces that do not have the V-Belt memory issues. You can also get it at Harbor Freight, since it looks like you are headed there anyway.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html
> 
> - CO_Goose


Thank you, Colorado Goose! I was able to pick up a HF Accu-Link V-Belt in our trip down to the Triple-Cities area yesterday. I just finished installing it and YIPEEE! The blog post to follow with show the results. This solved the vibration problem in spades!


----------



## retired_guru

*HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*

Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.

The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:










And what the appropriate length looks like installed:










How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.

Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.

Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.


----------



## nailbanger2

retired_guru said:


> *HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*
> 
> Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.
> 
> The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what the appropriate length looks like installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.
> 
> Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.
> 
> Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.


Good to know about the v-link belt, Paul. You just know everytime you mention a C10-FL I'm going to pipe in.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*
> 
> Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.
> 
> The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what the appropriate length looks like installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.
> 
> Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.
> 
> Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.





> Good to know about the v-link belt, Paul. You just know everytime you mention a C10-FL I m going to pipe in.
> 
> - nailbanger2


You keep piping in, nailbanger2. I need all the help I can get!

By the way, I've decided to buy one of those zero-insert phenolic units for better, safer cuts. I'm also going to pull the complete blade guard assembly off and make a splitter to replace it. I'm not comfortable running the saw without a splitter or riving knife. The rest just gets in the way.


----------



## Kentuk55

retired_guru said:


> *HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*
> 
> Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.
> 
> The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what the appropriate length looks like installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.
> 
> Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.
> 
> Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.


Thnx for your post and your review Paul. I've looked at this belt almost every time I visit my local HF. I'll bet I picked it up 3 or 4 times, only to place it back on the shelf. Maybe the next time, it will make it to the cashier, then to my shop. I'd like to give it a try on my old '50's, Craftsman table saw, and possibly my band saw.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*
> 
> Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.
> 
> The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what the appropriate length looks like installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.
> 
> Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.
> 
> Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.





> Thnx for your post and your review Paul. I ve looked at this belt almost every time I visit my local HF. I ll bet I picked it up 3 or 4 times, only to place it back on the shelf. Maybe the next time, it will make it to the cashier, then to my shop. I d like to give it a try on my old 50 s, Craftsman table saw, and possibly my band saw.
> 
> - Roger


You are most welcome, Roger. Before I knew of the HF model, I was looking at the Fenner Drives PowerTwist Plus A/13/4L @ $8.95 per foot. If HF didn't have a similar version (keep in mind the wife and I were going to be down that way anyway) I would have ordered the Fenner Drives to see if it alleviated the problem. But hey, if the HF lasts half as long as the Fenner Drives would have, I still got the belt sooner this way and for no greater the cost. Time will tell what value I got out of this.

By the way, Roger…the Fenner Drives specs say this shouldn't be used on smaller than a 3" pulley. Both pulleys on the Hitachi are slightly less than that. We'll see if it matters.


----------



## CO_Goose

retired_guru said:


> *HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*
> 
> Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.
> 
> The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what the appropriate length looks like installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.
> 
> Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.
> 
> Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.


Glad it worked out so well for you Paul!


----------



## nailbanger2

retired_guru said:


> *HF Accu-Link V-Belt on Hitachi C10FL -- Wow!!*
> 
> Previously I blogged about the very noticeable vibration and wobbling noise when the recently acquired 2009 Hitachi C10FL table saw was operated. Fellow LJ COGoose recommended buy the Harbor Freight Accu-Link V-Belt to solve the problem. The wife and I were going to be in the Triple-Cities area where a Harbor Freight is located, so a stop was made to pick one up.
> 
> The Accu-Link A-Link-5 belt comes in a 24" length. I needed about 9", this left lots for future replacements. Here is what is left over after making up the needed length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what the appropriate length looks like installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work? Does *WOW!!* say enough? I have seen ads and videos speaking to or just showing link belts installed. I had to see and hear it to believe how well they work. The vibration problem is gone and the only sounds from the saw are the revolving bearings and whirling blade. Nice.
> 
> Eventually I will make wood wings to span the voids left by the front and read fence rails. This week some time a couple of 4" to 2-1/2" dust collection adapters will arrive in the mail and one of these will allow me to button up the back side and run the Shop Vac/Dust Deputy dust collection off the bottom of the saw.
> 
> Good timing on the v-belt replacement. I have a new dish washer being delivered on Thursday. I need to have a cabinet made and both installed by the end of the weekend.


Paul, where are you finding phenolic inserts for your saw? That's definately the way to go. I made one out of maple, it's not pretty with the edge needing to be so thin and all the other obstacles that need clearance. I'd like to get a few more for different blades and dado set if they are strong enough. I use the splitter that comes with the saw, not ideal, but I used a job site saw for a long time before I got the Hitachi, so I was thrilled.


----------



## retired_guru

*Raiders of the Lost Dungeon - Part II*

In the prequel to this episode (Blog Entry #51: Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop-cont'd), I pointed out a small (useless) room that was taking up valuable space in the dungeon. Either I tear it down and make that space useful, refurbish the room and use it, or work around it. I chose the last. If I had torn down the room I would have had no wall space to work with-the inside wall was the house's field stone foundation. Using the room would mean taking down a most dusty, moldy (collapsing) papered ceiling-uh, no. I opted to neglect the room space and use the wood wall instead.

The following two pictures show what I started with:



















The door was removed and a hood frame was build separately then attached at the height of the new bench. Here I have the miter saw resting on a board to check for clearances:










The main infrastructure of the bench is made of two-by-fours, most of which came from destructed pallets and crates. Additional top cross supports were added on the end bench where the widest part began the curve toward the end, and at the left side of the main bench, where I would run out of plywood:










Once the hood was covered in old shower curtain plastic, I stapled in overlapping skirting at the bottom of the hood to funnel the dust into a receptacle. Here you can only see the back piece of the funnel:










The hood is complete, the old door has been cut down to allow access to the large soot can that will collect the saw dust, and a simple rotating latch keeps it closed. The opening above the hood, as well as the opening left by the removed window, was covered up with similar thickness pallet wood:










A coat of Zinsser Bin Primer was applied to the wall above the bench in preparation for a coat of white enamel. I wanted a surface that would brighten the space and be easier to keep clean:










One coat of white outdoor enamel was applied over the primer. The 3/4" pine plywood was cut by the box store into three rectangular sections, two of which were used here. The leftover is as long as the piece that will sit under the miter saw, and an inch narrower:










Next was the under bench shelving:



















I found a section of hardwood veneered plywood that was just large enough to cut to size for the left side of the main bench. Back splashes were put up to keep small parts and saw dust from falling between the wall and bench top:










I ripped a 1/4" strip off of a two-by-two to see how it would look as edging. Since the top is pine and this isn't going to be an area that will be used for assembling or pounding, I think pine will be fine for the edging. The large table centered on the backside of the Hitachi table saw will be adequate for building and assembly work.

Originally I was going to finish the top with shellac and then paste wax. The proximity of the bench to the gas fired water heater had me thinking the alcohol-based shellac might be a hazard. I opted to go with a water-based high-traffic, fast-drying poly instead. Before I can do that, I need to cut down the pegboard that used to be against the stone wall on the right, so that its length runs across the length of the wall instead of from joist to floor. And after that…outlets!


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon - Part II*
> 
> In the prequel to this episode (Blog Entry #51: Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop-cont'd), I pointed out a small (useless) room that was taking up valuable space in the dungeon. Either I tear it down and make that space useful, refurbish the room and use it, or work around it. I chose the last. If I had torn down the room I would have had no wall space to work with-the inside wall was the house's field stone foundation. Using the room would mean taking down a most dusty, moldy (collapsing) papered ceiling-uh, no. I opted to neglect the room space and use the wood wall instead.
> 
> The following two pictures show what I started with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door was removed and a hood frame was build separately then attached at the height of the new bench. Here I have the miter saw resting on a board to check for clearances:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main infrastructure of the bench is made of two-by-fours, most of which came from destructed pallets and crates. Additional top cross supports were added on the end bench where the widest part began the curve toward the end, and at the left side of the main bench, where I would run out of plywood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the hood was covered in old shower curtain plastic, I stapled in overlapping skirting at the bottom of the hood to funnel the dust into a receptacle. Here you can only see the back piece of the funnel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hood is complete, the old door has been cut down to allow access to the large soot can that will collect the saw dust, and a simple rotating latch keeps it closed. The opening above the hood, as well as the opening left by the removed window, was covered up with similar thickness pallet wood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A coat of Zinsser Bin Primer was applied to the wall above the bench in preparation for a coat of white enamel. I wanted a surface that would brighten the space and be easier to keep clean:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One coat of white outdoor enamel was applied over the primer. The 3/4" pine plywood was cut by the box store into three rectangular sections, two of which were used here. The leftover is as long as the piece that will sit under the miter saw, and an inch narrower:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the under bench shelving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a section of hardwood veneered plywood that was just large enough to cut to size for the left side of the main bench. Back splashes were put up to keep small parts and saw dust from falling between the wall and bench top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ripped a 1/4" strip off of a two-by-two to see how it would look as edging. Since the top is pine and this isn't going to be an area that will be used for assembling or pounding, I think pine will be fine for the edging. The large table centered on the backside of the Hitachi table saw will be adequate for building and assembly work.
> 
> Originally I was going to finish the top with shellac and then paste wax. The proximity of the bench to the gas fired water heater had me thinking the alcohol-based shellac might be a hazard. I opted to go with a water-based high-traffic, fast-drying poly instead. Before I can do that, I need to cut down the pegboard that used to be against the stone wall on the right, so that its length runs across the length of the wall instead of from joist to floor. And after that…outlets!


I bet that feels wonderful. Really like the idea of the mitre hood - not seen that before. It's hard for me to tell from the photos - the section of the bench along the right wall is the same height and co-planar with the rest of the bench?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon - Part II*
> 
> In the prequel to this episode (Blog Entry #51: Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop-cont'd), I pointed out a small (useless) room that was taking up valuable space in the dungeon. Either I tear it down and make that space useful, refurbish the room and use it, or work around it. I chose the last. If I had torn down the room I would have had no wall space to work with-the inside wall was the house's field stone foundation. Using the room would mean taking down a most dusty, moldy (collapsing) papered ceiling-uh, no. I opted to neglect the room space and use the wood wall instead.
> 
> The following two pictures show what I started with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door was removed and a hood frame was build separately then attached at the height of the new bench. Here I have the miter saw resting on a board to check for clearances:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main infrastructure of the bench is made of two-by-fours, most of which came from destructed pallets and crates. Additional top cross supports were added on the end bench where the widest part began the curve toward the end, and at the left side of the main bench, where I would run out of plywood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the hood was covered in old shower curtain plastic, I stapled in overlapping skirting at the bottom of the hood to funnel the dust into a receptacle. Here you can only see the back piece of the funnel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hood is complete, the old door has been cut down to allow access to the large soot can that will collect the saw dust, and a simple rotating latch keeps it closed. The opening above the hood, as well as the opening left by the removed window, was covered up with similar thickness pallet wood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A coat of Zinsser Bin Primer was applied to the wall above the bench in preparation for a coat of white enamel. I wanted a surface that would brighten the space and be easier to keep clean:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One coat of white outdoor enamel was applied over the primer. The 3/4" pine plywood was cut by the box store into three rectangular sections, two of which were used here. The leftover is as long as the piece that will sit under the miter saw, and an inch narrower:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the under bench shelving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a section of hardwood veneered plywood that was just large enough to cut to size for the left side of the main bench. Back splashes were put up to keep small parts and saw dust from falling between the wall and bench top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ripped a 1/4" strip off of a two-by-two to see how it would look as edging. Since the top is pine and this isn't going to be an area that will be used for assembling or pounding, I think pine will be fine for the edging. The large table centered on the backside of the Hitachi table saw will be adequate for building and assembly work.
> 
> Originally I was going to finish the top with shellac and then paste wax. The proximity of the bench to the gas fired water heater had me thinking the alcohol-based shellac might be a hazard. I opted to go with a water-based high-traffic, fast-drying poly instead. Before I can do that, I need to cut down the pegboard that used to be against the stone wall on the right, so that its length runs across the length of the wall instead of from joist to floor. And after that…outlets!





> I bet that feels wonderful.


Since the area being transformed hasn't one flat, true or level surface, getting workable dimensions and fit was a challenge. The satisfaction is coming from the near completion and the overall construction being good enough for what it is intended to provide, which is to hold assorted bench equipment.



> Really like the idea of the mitre hood - not seen that before.


Dust collection is the weakest link in the dungeon workshop methodology. The hood concept was derived from FastCap's freestanding unit. I needed to get the sliding back end of the miter saw out of the working space of the dungeon, so insetting the hood seemed like a good way to use up some of the lost space in the little room.

Originally, I was going to add a bottom board to the hood and attach my shop vac to it. Instead I opted to simplify the hood's effectiveness with a plastic chute to a large old coal soot collection bin below and an eventual pleated plastic skirt draped over the opening that will move with the rotation of the miter saw for angled cuts. I haven't decided on what that material will be. Eventually. If this doesn't do enough, I can always revert back to my original shop vac collection idea.
[/QUOTE]



> It s hard for me to tell from the photos - the section of the bench along the right wall is the same height and co-planar with the rest of the bench?
> 
> - Ted Ewen


More or less. There is a drop-not quite an inch over a 32" span-which won't be a problem. Again, this is not to be a bench I construct on, so "level" and "co-planar" can be hand grenade close. I also used whatever 2×4s I had, which in coming from pallets and crates means they were often twisted. This is definitely carpentry, not woodworking. 

The floor is very uneven over any distance. If you look at early pics (in this blog) of the area you can see that there is a multi-inch drop from the right wall to the door opening. You wouldn't think concrete could 'warp' like that, but whatever. What is more important in this bench is its sturdiness. I purposely used 2×2s for the under bench shelves to add weight and stability to the bracing. This they do, in spades. You can't juggles this. Also, the back frame pieces are screwed into the wall.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon - Part II*
> 
> In the prequel to this episode (Blog Entry #51: Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop-cont'd), I pointed out a small (useless) room that was taking up valuable space in the dungeon. Either I tear it down and make that space useful, refurbish the room and use it, or work around it. I chose the last. If I had torn down the room I would have had no wall space to work with-the inside wall was the house's field stone foundation. Using the room would mean taking down a most dusty, moldy (collapsing) papered ceiling-uh, no. I opted to neglect the room space and use the wood wall instead.
> 
> The following two pictures show what I started with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door was removed and a hood frame was build separately then attached at the height of the new bench. Here I have the miter saw resting on a board to check for clearances:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main infrastructure of the bench is made of two-by-fours, most of which came from destructed pallets and crates. Additional top cross supports were added on the end bench where the widest part began the curve toward the end, and at the left side of the main bench, where I would run out of plywood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the hood was covered in old shower curtain plastic, I stapled in overlapping skirting at the bottom of the hood to funnel the dust into a receptacle. Here you can only see the back piece of the funnel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hood is complete, the old door has been cut down to allow access to the large soot can that will collect the saw dust, and a simple rotating latch keeps it closed. The opening above the hood, as well as the opening left by the removed window, was covered up with similar thickness pallet wood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A coat of Zinsser Bin Primer was applied to the wall above the bench in preparation for a coat of white enamel. I wanted a surface that would brighten the space and be easier to keep clean:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One coat of white outdoor enamel was applied over the primer. The 3/4" pine plywood was cut by the box store into three rectangular sections, two of which were used here. The leftover is as long as the piece that will sit under the miter saw, and an inch narrower:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the under bench shelving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a section of hardwood veneered plywood that was just large enough to cut to size for the left side of the main bench. Back splashes were put up to keep small parts and saw dust from falling between the wall and bench top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ripped a 1/4" strip off of a two-by-two to see how it would look as edging. Since the top is pine and this isn't going to be an area that will be used for assembling or pounding, I think pine will be fine for the edging. The large table centered on the backside of the Hitachi table saw will be adequate for building and assembly work.
> 
> Originally I was going to finish the top with shellac and then paste wax. The proximity of the bench to the gas fired water heater had me thinking the alcohol-based shellac might be a hazard. I opted to go with a water-based high-traffic, fast-drying poly instead. Before I can do that, I need to cut down the pegboard that used to be against the stone wall on the right, so that its length runs across the length of the wall instead of from joist to floor. And after that…outlets!


Paul ! Nice work-around. 
Your shop has a lot of that rustic charm and character.!


----------



## JimYoung

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon - Part II*
> 
> In the prequel to this episode (Blog Entry #51: Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop-cont'd), I pointed out a small (useless) room that was taking up valuable space in the dungeon. Either I tear it down and make that space useful, refurbish the room and use it, or work around it. I chose the last. If I had torn down the room I would have had no wall space to work with-the inside wall was the house's field stone foundation. Using the room would mean taking down a most dusty, moldy (collapsing) papered ceiling-uh, no. I opted to neglect the room space and use the wood wall instead.
> 
> The following two pictures show what I started with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door was removed and a hood frame was build separately then attached at the height of the new bench. Here I have the miter saw resting on a board to check for clearances:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main infrastructure of the bench is made of two-by-fours, most of which came from destructed pallets and crates. Additional top cross supports were added on the end bench where the widest part began the curve toward the end, and at the left side of the main bench, where I would run out of plywood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the hood was covered in old shower curtain plastic, I stapled in overlapping skirting at the bottom of the hood to funnel the dust into a receptacle. Here you can only see the back piece of the funnel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hood is complete, the old door has been cut down to allow access to the large soot can that will collect the saw dust, and a simple rotating latch keeps it closed. The opening above the hood, as well as the opening left by the removed window, was covered up with similar thickness pallet wood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A coat of Zinsser Bin Primer was applied to the wall above the bench in preparation for a coat of white enamel. I wanted a surface that would brighten the space and be easier to keep clean:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One coat of white outdoor enamel was applied over the primer. The 3/4" pine plywood was cut by the box store into three rectangular sections, two of which were used here. The leftover is as long as the piece that will sit under the miter saw, and an inch narrower:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the under bench shelving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a section of hardwood veneered plywood that was just large enough to cut to size for the left side of the main bench. Back splashes were put up to keep small parts and saw dust from falling between the wall and bench top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ripped a 1/4" strip off of a two-by-two to see how it would look as edging. Since the top is pine and this isn't going to be an area that will be used for assembling or pounding, I think pine will be fine for the edging. The large table centered on the backside of the Hitachi table saw will be adequate for building and assembly work.
> 
> Originally I was going to finish the top with shellac and then paste wax. The proximity of the bench to the gas fired water heater had me thinking the alcohol-based shellac might be a hazard. I opted to go with a water-based high-traffic, fast-drying poly instead. Before I can do that, I need to cut down the pegboard that used to be against the stone wall on the right, so that its length runs across the length of the wall instead of from joist to floor. And after that…outlets!


Quite a transformation, Paul.

You have the right idea with the white walls. The first thing I did in my shop was paint the walls before I started any benches or storage. It makes all the difference.

Are you concerned with "blow back" out of the dust collection hood? It would seem to me that if the saw is throwing out dust and air, if the hood is closed off that it might kick up dust already in the bin and blow it back into the shop.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Raiders of the Lost Dungeon - Part II*
> 
> In the prequel to this episode (Blog Entry #51: Raiders of the Lost Dungeon Workshop-cont'd), I pointed out a small (useless) room that was taking up valuable space in the dungeon. Either I tear it down and make that space useful, refurbish the room and use it, or work around it. I chose the last. If I had torn down the room I would have had no wall space to work with-the inside wall was the house's field stone foundation. Using the room would mean taking down a most dusty, moldy (collapsing) papered ceiling-uh, no. I opted to neglect the room space and use the wood wall instead.
> 
> The following two pictures show what I started with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door was removed and a hood frame was build separately then attached at the height of the new bench. Here I have the miter saw resting on a board to check for clearances:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main infrastructure of the bench is made of two-by-fours, most of which came from destructed pallets and crates. Additional top cross supports were added on the end bench where the widest part began the curve toward the end, and at the left side of the main bench, where I would run out of plywood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the hood was covered in old shower curtain plastic, I stapled in overlapping skirting at the bottom of the hood to funnel the dust into a receptacle. Here you can only see the back piece of the funnel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hood is complete, the old door has been cut down to allow access to the large soot can that will collect the saw dust, and a simple rotating latch keeps it closed. The opening above the hood, as well as the opening left by the removed window, was covered up with similar thickness pallet wood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A coat of Zinsser Bin Primer was applied to the wall above the bench in preparation for a coat of white enamel. I wanted a surface that would brighten the space and be easier to keep clean:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One coat of white outdoor enamel was applied over the primer. The 3/4" pine plywood was cut by the box store into three rectangular sections, two of which were used here. The leftover is as long as the piece that will sit under the miter saw, and an inch narrower:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the under bench shelving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a section of hardwood veneered plywood that was just large enough to cut to size for the left side of the main bench. Back splashes were put up to keep small parts and saw dust from falling between the wall and bench top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ripped a 1/4" strip off of a two-by-two to see how it would look as edging. Since the top is pine and this isn't going to be an area that will be used for assembling or pounding, I think pine will be fine for the edging. The large table centered on the backside of the Hitachi table saw will be adequate for building and assembly work.
> 
> Originally I was going to finish the top with shellac and then paste wax. The proximity of the bench to the gas fired water heater had me thinking the alcohol-based shellac might be a hazard. I opted to go with a water-based high-traffic, fast-drying poly instead. Before I can do that, I need to cut down the pegboard that used to be against the stone wall on the right, so that its length runs across the length of the wall instead of from joist to floor. And after that…outlets!


That all makes perfect sense, Paul. I just wasn't sure if it was my eyes, the camera, or the wood. Odds are all three 
Dead impressed bud, dead impressed.


----------



## retired_guru

*Blanket Rack (Repurposed VHS Rack)*

Last year I started an on-again/off-again/on-again/etc. crusade to get rid of stuff in and around the house that was no longer needed, wanted or useful. I admit to being a pack-rat. I admit to being lazy (at times). But when my goat gets up, it won't stop eating until there's nothing left to eat. Not sure why that came out, but I am sure someone got the gist of it.

For years we had our VHS tapes sitting on this oak rack. While we still have one combo player that will work with VHS tapes, the only reason for keeping the player is because we have some home-made keepsakes I have yet to digitize. The rest will be donated to someone, or just thrown in the trash if they get into my way one more time.

The rack sides are made of approximately 1" oak. I wanted to repurpose them into a project within my means. We have a lot of blankets in this household, scattered between rooms on two floors. The rack sides were the right dimensions for such a project. This was the first time I had made a blanket rack (or what most would label a quilt rack, by design), so I treated the construction of the rack as a prototype.

The first step was to separate the side boards from the hardwood dowel shelves. I used a flush-cut hand saw for the task. Apparently mine has set to both sides of the blade-next time I will use a business card as a spacer between the blade and workpiece. I used a chisel to clean up any protrusions before running both boards through my DeWALT 734 thickness planer. This also removed the finish, saving me a lot of final sanding time on both sides.

The feet, made from oak pallet runners, were glued and screwed to the oak side boards, while the horizontal braces were only screwed to the sides. I used dark bronze self-tapping furniture screws used in pocket hole joinery which have to date done well in keeping the construction tight. The hearts I cut out with a jigsaw and hand filed and drum sanded with a Dremel.










As you can see from this picture, the hardwood dowel ends were going to be obvious. It was my intention to use oak from pallets for the slats and feet, and to give it a somewhat rustic look. I tried drilling out the stained nail holes and plugging from the same boards. Unfortunately, between my HF Central Machinery bench drill press having major run-out problems, and the box store bought plug cutters being dull as a tablespoon, the result wasn't what I wanted. I should have left he nail holes in-lesson well learned.

Finish is Minwax Antique (oil-based stain) and several generous applications of Johnson's Original Paste Wax.

How well has it held up the past 6 months? Just like I made it. The hand knitted herringbone design blanket in the mix is heavy by itself. All the blankets we put on the rack are pretty heavy together. I'm surprised that the top brace, mounted face up instead of edge up, has kept its shape well. Barely any bowing seen once you remove the blankets. But because I didn't glue in the braces I can replace it, or all the others for that matter. Since the blankets hide the looks of the braces, I'm content to improve the next two racks destined for the master and guest bedrooms, and leave this as a finished prototype.

I repurposed what I would have thrown out. The wife likes it. Win-win.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Blanket Rack (Repurposed VHS Rack)*
> 
> Last year I started an on-again/off-again/on-again/etc. crusade to get rid of stuff in and around the house that was no longer needed, wanted or useful. I admit to being a pack-rat. I admit to being lazy (at times). But when my goat gets up, it won't stop eating until there's nothing left to eat. Not sure why that came out, but I am sure someone got the gist of it.
> 
> For years we had our VHS tapes sitting on this oak rack. While we still have one combo player that will work with VHS tapes, the only reason for keeping the player is because we have some home-made keepsakes I have yet to digitize. The rest will be donated to someone, or just thrown in the trash if they get into my way one more time.
> 
> The rack sides are made of approximately 1" oak. I wanted to repurpose them into a project within my means. We have a lot of blankets in this household, scattered between rooms on two floors. The rack sides were the right dimensions for such a project. This was the first time I had made a blanket rack (or what most would label a quilt rack, by design), so I treated the construction of the rack as a prototype.
> 
> The first step was to separate the side boards from the hardwood dowel shelves. I used a flush-cut hand saw for the task. Apparently mine has set to both sides of the blade-next time I will use a business card as a spacer between the blade and workpiece. I used a chisel to clean up any protrusions before running both boards through my DeWALT 734 thickness planer. This also removed the finish, saving me a lot of final sanding time on both sides.
> 
> The feet, made from oak pallet runners, were glued and screwed to the oak side boards, while the horizontal braces were only screwed to the sides. I used dark bronze self-tapping furniture screws used in pocket hole joinery which have to date done well in keeping the construction tight. The hearts I cut out with a jigsaw and hand filed and drum sanded with a Dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from this picture, the hardwood dowel ends were going to be obvious. It was my intention to use oak from pallets for the slats and feet, and to give it a somewhat rustic look. I tried drilling out the stained nail holes and plugging from the same boards. Unfortunately, between my HF Central Machinery bench drill press having major run-out problems, and the box store bought plug cutters being dull as a tablespoon, the result wasn't what I wanted. I should have left he nail holes in-lesson well learned.
> 
> Finish is Minwax Antique (oil-based stain) and several generous applications of Johnson's Original Paste Wax.
> 
> How well has it held up the past 6 months? Just like I made it. The hand knitted herringbone design blanket in the mix is heavy by itself. All the blankets we put on the rack are pretty heavy together. I'm surprised that the top brace, mounted face up instead of edge up, has kept its shape well. Barely any bowing seen once you remove the blankets. But because I didn't glue in the braces I can replace it, or all the others for that matter. Since the blankets hide the looks of the braces, I'm content to improve the next two racks destined for the master and guest bedrooms, and leave this as a finished prototype.
> 
> I repurposed what I would have thrown out. The wife likes it. Win-win.


Nicely done re-purpose project Paul. How is the dungeon/shop coming?


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Blanket Rack (Repurposed VHS Rack)*
> 
> Last year I started an on-again/off-again/on-again/etc. crusade to get rid of stuff in and around the house that was no longer needed, wanted or useful. I admit to being a pack-rat. I admit to being lazy (at times). But when my goat gets up, it won't stop eating until there's nothing left to eat. Not sure why that came out, but I am sure someone got the gist of it.
> 
> For years we had our VHS tapes sitting on this oak rack. While we still have one combo player that will work with VHS tapes, the only reason for keeping the player is because we have some home-made keepsakes I have yet to digitize. The rest will be donated to someone, or just thrown in the trash if they get into my way one more time.
> 
> The rack sides are made of approximately 1" oak. I wanted to repurpose them into a project within my means. We have a lot of blankets in this household, scattered between rooms on two floors. The rack sides were the right dimensions for such a project. This was the first time I had made a blanket rack (or what most would label a quilt rack, by design), so I treated the construction of the rack as a prototype.
> 
> The first step was to separate the side boards from the hardwood dowel shelves. I used a flush-cut hand saw for the task. Apparently mine has set to both sides of the blade-next time I will use a business card as a spacer between the blade and workpiece. I used a chisel to clean up any protrusions before running both boards through my DeWALT 734 thickness planer. This also removed the finish, saving me a lot of final sanding time on both sides.
> 
> The feet, made from oak pallet runners, were glued and screwed to the oak side boards, while the horizontal braces were only screwed to the sides. I used dark bronze self-tapping furniture screws used in pocket hole joinery which have to date done well in keeping the construction tight. The hearts I cut out with a jigsaw and hand filed and drum sanded with a Dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from this picture, the hardwood dowel ends were going to be obvious. It was my intention to use oak from pallets for the slats and feet, and to give it a somewhat rustic look. I tried drilling out the stained nail holes and plugging from the same boards. Unfortunately, between my HF Central Machinery bench drill press having major run-out problems, and the box store bought plug cutters being dull as a tablespoon, the result wasn't what I wanted. I should have left he nail holes in-lesson well learned.
> 
> Finish is Minwax Antique (oil-based stain) and several generous applications of Johnson's Original Paste Wax.
> 
> How well has it held up the past 6 months? Just like I made it. The hand knitted herringbone design blanket in the mix is heavy by itself. All the blankets we put on the rack are pretty heavy together. I'm surprised that the top brace, mounted face up instead of edge up, has kept its shape well. Barely any bowing seen once you remove the blankets. But because I didn't glue in the braces I can replace it, or all the others for that matter. Since the blankets hide the looks of the braces, I'm content to improve the next two racks destined for the master and guest bedrooms, and leave this as a finished prototype.
> 
> I repurposed what I would have thrown out. The wife likes it. Win-win.


Paul,
nice to see you are still following your re-cycling Ethos, and back in the saddle.
Good job Sir.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Past Four Months*

Last autumn we decided to remodel the kitchen. One failed major appliance started the notion. It was a cascading effect and the main reason behind all the extra work and time consumed. We won't do that again. At any rate, I have been busy acquiring new tools and accessories, most of them coming to me because of an unexpected windfall around the holidays. I'm hoping to express this in a way that doesn't come across as gloating, bragging or ego-tripping. Right now, I can't afford what most of my peers deem nominal in woodworking. I am very, very lucky to have acquired these goodies and rest assured I am grateful to have the help.

Back in early fall I invested in a new grinder. I wanted one that had a variable speed control. Our one and only box store had a Delta that I could afford.










Sometimes the wife surprises me with her commitment and support. For Christmas, with no promoting or foreknowledge from me, she got me an apron, over-bucket tool caddy and carry tool satchel. She knows my true weakness is organization.



















When she asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I was at the time looking (once again) at the Work Sharp WS-3000 sharpening system. She told me to order it. Awesome. So that was my 'known' Christmas gift.










Behind the WS-3000 is a new 10" Diablo ripping blade for the Hitachi. I'm finding it hard to rip oak without burning using the Diablo 50t combo. This should solve that problem for me. The blade was a post-Christmas purchase with some of the money I received.

Shaft runout on my Harbor Freight drill press was getting so bad that all I could make were oval holes. No amount of tightening up the side adjustment bolt could resolve this at the full range of the shaft. I was skeptical in the beginning about getting a benchtop SKil from the box store. My luck with Skil tools has been hit or miss. What a difference between theirs and the HF model. I'm happy with it. And now my holes are round.










After Christmas I took the very generous money and store card gifts to good use. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" benchtop jointer at the box store. I haven't used the jointer yet. It took some time to get the fence perpendicular the bed, which is a known issue with this model. There isn't anything else like it (size and price) in my area, so let's hope this works well.










And a 10" x 18" midi-lathe from HF.










I have fired-up the lathe…quiet and smooth running. The live and tail centers line up. I forgot to mention that I bought the better of the two sets of woodturning tools from HF when I bought the lathe. My expectations are in line. I'll sharpen them before using and take my time learning how to use them properly and safely. I have high hopes I will be able to use the lathe for many things. Before I do, I need to make a base for it this weekend that will give me the correct working height.

I finally got around to dealing with a problem I have had since the day I bought it: a grossly inaccurate fence on the Blue Hawk router table. I used leftover melamine from the kitchen remodeling. This is a lot better than before.










Around late September of last year the OEM blade on my HF bandsaw broke. I decided to try the Timberwolf line of blades from PS Wood Machines. Wow. What a difference! That little saw cuts through hardwood like a dream. I highly recommend their blades. The one in the picture is their 4tpi blade.










And last but hardly least, today I acquired from one of my clients a Stanley No. 6 roughing plane. It needs some obvious clean-up and tuning. This is my first hand plane larger than a No. 4.























































Now, all I need is a bunch of minions to help me clean up the mess I made in the dungeon from the kitchen remodeling.


----------



## MadMark

retired_guru said:


> *The Past Four Months*
> 
> Last autumn we decided to remodel the kitchen. One failed major appliance started the notion. It was a cascading effect and the main reason behind all the extra work and time consumed. We won't do that again. At any rate, I have been busy acquiring new tools and accessories, most of them coming to me because of an unexpected windfall around the holidays. I'm hoping to express this in a way that doesn't come across as gloating, bragging or ego-tripping. Right now, I can't afford what most of my peers deem nominal in woodworking. I am very, very lucky to have acquired these goodies and rest assured I am grateful to have the help.
> 
> Back in early fall I invested in a new grinder. I wanted one that had a variable speed control. Our one and only box store had a Delta that I could afford.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes the wife surprises me with her commitment and support. For Christmas, with no promoting or foreknowledge from me, she got me an apron, over-bucket tool caddy and carry tool satchel. She knows my true weakness is organization.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When she asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I was at the time looking (once again) at the Work Sharp WS-3000 sharpening system. She told me to order it. Awesome. So that was my 'known' Christmas gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the WS-3000 is a new 10" Diablo ripping blade for the Hitachi. I'm finding it hard to rip oak without burning using the Diablo 50t combo. This should solve that problem for me. The blade was a post-Christmas purchase with some of the money I received.
> 
> Shaft runout on my Harbor Freight drill press was getting so bad that all I could make were oval holes. No amount of tightening up the side adjustment bolt could resolve this at the full range of the shaft. I was skeptical in the beginning about getting a benchtop SKil from the box store. My luck with Skil tools has been hit or miss. What a difference between theirs and the HF model. I'm happy with it. And now my holes are round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Christmas I took the very generous money and store card gifts to good use. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" benchtop jointer at the box store. I haven't used the jointer yet. It took some time to get the fence perpendicular the bed, which is a known issue with this model. There isn't anything else like it (size and price) in my area, so let's hope this works well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a 10" x 18" midi-lathe from HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have fired-up the lathe…quiet and smooth running. The live and tail centers line up. I forgot to mention that I bought the better of the two sets of woodturning tools from HF when I bought the lathe. My expectations are in line. I'll sharpen them before using and take my time learning how to use them properly and safely. I have high hopes I will be able to use the lathe for many things. Before I do, I need to make a base for it this weekend that will give me the correct working height.
> 
> I finally got around to dealing with a problem I have had since the day I bought it: a grossly inaccurate fence on the Blue Hawk router table. I used leftover melamine from the kitchen remodeling. This is a lot better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around late September of last year the OEM blade on my HF bandsaw broke. I decided to try the Timberwolf line of blades from PS Wood Machines. Wow. What a difference! That little saw cuts through hardwood like a dream. I highly recommend their blades. The one in the picture is their 4tpi blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last but hardly least, today I acquired from one of my clients a Stanley No. 6 roughing plane. It needs some obvious clean-up and tuning. This is my first hand plane larger than a No. 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, all I need is a bunch of minions to help me clean up the mess I made in the dungeon from the kitchen remodeling.


Nice! I have that exact Skill drillpress and it is a jewel. Two years of steady use & its a trooper. Show us you 1st project for each tool!

M


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Past Four Months*
> 
> Last autumn we decided to remodel the kitchen. One failed major appliance started the notion. It was a cascading effect and the main reason behind all the extra work and time consumed. We won't do that again. At any rate, I have been busy acquiring new tools and accessories, most of them coming to me because of an unexpected windfall around the holidays. I'm hoping to express this in a way that doesn't come across as gloating, bragging or ego-tripping. Right now, I can't afford what most of my peers deem nominal in woodworking. I am very, very lucky to have acquired these goodies and rest assured I am grateful to have the help.
> 
> Back in early fall I invested in a new grinder. I wanted one that had a variable speed control. Our one and only box store had a Delta that I could afford.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes the wife surprises me with her commitment and support. For Christmas, with no promoting or foreknowledge from me, she got me an apron, over-bucket tool caddy and carry tool satchel. She knows my true weakness is organization.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When she asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I was at the time looking (once again) at the Work Sharp WS-3000 sharpening system. She told me to order it. Awesome. So that was my 'known' Christmas gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the WS-3000 is a new 10" Diablo ripping blade for the Hitachi. I'm finding it hard to rip oak without burning using the Diablo 50t combo. This should solve that problem for me. The blade was a post-Christmas purchase with some of the money I received.
> 
> Shaft runout on my Harbor Freight drill press was getting so bad that all I could make were oval holes. No amount of tightening up the side adjustment bolt could resolve this at the full range of the shaft. I was skeptical in the beginning about getting a benchtop SKil from the box store. My luck with Skil tools has been hit or miss. What a difference between theirs and the HF model. I'm happy with it. And now my holes are round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Christmas I took the very generous money and store card gifts to good use. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" benchtop jointer at the box store. I haven't used the jointer yet. It took some time to get the fence perpendicular the bed, which is a known issue with this model. There isn't anything else like it (size and price) in my area, so let's hope this works well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a 10" x 18" midi-lathe from HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have fired-up the lathe…quiet and smooth running. The live and tail centers line up. I forgot to mention that I bought the better of the two sets of woodturning tools from HF when I bought the lathe. My expectations are in line. I'll sharpen them before using and take my time learning how to use them properly and safely. I have high hopes I will be able to use the lathe for many things. Before I do, I need to make a base for it this weekend that will give me the correct working height.
> 
> I finally got around to dealing with a problem I have had since the day I bought it: a grossly inaccurate fence on the Blue Hawk router table. I used leftover melamine from the kitchen remodeling. This is a lot better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around late September of last year the OEM blade on my HF bandsaw broke. I decided to try the Timberwolf line of blades from PS Wood Machines. Wow. What a difference! That little saw cuts through hardwood like a dream. I highly recommend their blades. The one in the picture is their 4tpi blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last but hardly least, today I acquired from one of my clients a Stanley No. 6 roughing plane. It needs some obvious clean-up and tuning. This is my first hand plane larger than a No. 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, all I need is a bunch of minions to help me clean up the mess I made in the dungeon from the kitchen remodeling.





> Nice! I have that exact Skill drillpress and it is a jewel. Two years of steady use & its a trooper. Show us you 1st project for each tool!
> 
> M
> 
> - MadMark


Good to know, Mark. As I have mentioned, I haven't had consistent luck with Skil tools. The drill head is solid, the shaft smooth running up and down. No runout. The chuck also doesn't have any play once secured. I like it. The depth stop is different. I can see where this will be more precise than the traditional method once I get used to it.

I have projects in the works. I'm sure all of them will meet these tools. I will post my creations as they come to be.

Thanks for giving me your experience on the drill press.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Past Four Months*
> 
> Last autumn we decided to remodel the kitchen. One failed major appliance started the notion. It was a cascading effect and the main reason behind all the extra work and time consumed. We won't do that again. At any rate, I have been busy acquiring new tools and accessories, most of them coming to me because of an unexpected windfall around the holidays. I'm hoping to express this in a way that doesn't come across as gloating, bragging or ego-tripping. Right now, I can't afford what most of my peers deem nominal in woodworking. I am very, very lucky to have acquired these goodies and rest assured I am grateful to have the help.
> 
> Back in early fall I invested in a new grinder. I wanted one that had a variable speed control. Our one and only box store had a Delta that I could afford.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes the wife surprises me with her commitment and support. For Christmas, with no promoting or foreknowledge from me, she got me an apron, over-bucket tool caddy and carry tool satchel. She knows my true weakness is organization.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When she asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I was at the time looking (once again) at the Work Sharp WS-3000 sharpening system. She told me to order it. Awesome. So that was my 'known' Christmas gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the WS-3000 is a new 10" Diablo ripping blade for the Hitachi. I'm finding it hard to rip oak without burning using the Diablo 50t combo. This should solve that problem for me. The blade was a post-Christmas purchase with some of the money I received.
> 
> Shaft runout on my Harbor Freight drill press was getting so bad that all I could make were oval holes. No amount of tightening up the side adjustment bolt could resolve this at the full range of the shaft. I was skeptical in the beginning about getting a benchtop SKil from the box store. My luck with Skil tools has been hit or miss. What a difference between theirs and the HF model. I'm happy with it. And now my holes are round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Christmas I took the very generous money and store card gifts to good use. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" benchtop jointer at the box store. I haven't used the jointer yet. It took some time to get the fence perpendicular the bed, which is a known issue with this model. There isn't anything else like it (size and price) in my area, so let's hope this works well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a 10" x 18" midi-lathe from HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have fired-up the lathe…quiet and smooth running. The live and tail centers line up. I forgot to mention that I bought the better of the two sets of woodturning tools from HF when I bought the lathe. My expectations are in line. I'll sharpen them before using and take my time learning how to use them properly and safely. I have high hopes I will be able to use the lathe for many things. Before I do, I need to make a base for it this weekend that will give me the correct working height.
> 
> I finally got around to dealing with a problem I have had since the day I bought it: a grossly inaccurate fence on the Blue Hawk router table. I used leftover melamine from the kitchen remodeling. This is a lot better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around late September of last year the OEM blade on my HF bandsaw broke. I decided to try the Timberwolf line of blades from PS Wood Machines. Wow. What a difference! That little saw cuts through hardwood like a dream. I highly recommend their blades. The one in the picture is their 4tpi blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last but hardly least, today I acquired from one of my clients a Stanley No. 6 roughing plane. It needs some obvious clean-up and tuning. This is my first hand plane larger than a No. 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, all I need is a bunch of minions to help me clean up the mess I made in the dungeon from the kitchen remodeling.


Wow Paul with all those new toys in hand can we expect the projects to be flying out of the dungeon this year?


----------



## Dave10

retired_guru said:


> *The Past Four Months*
> 
> Last autumn we decided to remodel the kitchen. One failed major appliance started the notion. It was a cascading effect and the main reason behind all the extra work and time consumed. We won't do that again. At any rate, I have been busy acquiring new tools and accessories, most of them coming to me because of an unexpected windfall around the holidays. I'm hoping to express this in a way that doesn't come across as gloating, bragging or ego-tripping. Right now, I can't afford what most of my peers deem nominal in woodworking. I am very, very lucky to have acquired these goodies and rest assured I am grateful to have the help.
> 
> Back in early fall I invested in a new grinder. I wanted one that had a variable speed control. Our one and only box store had a Delta that I could afford.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes the wife surprises me with her commitment and support. For Christmas, with no promoting or foreknowledge from me, she got me an apron, over-bucket tool caddy and carry tool satchel. She knows my true weakness is organization.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When she asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I was at the time looking (once again) at the Work Sharp WS-3000 sharpening system. She told me to order it. Awesome. So that was my 'known' Christmas gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the WS-3000 is a new 10" Diablo ripping blade for the Hitachi. I'm finding it hard to rip oak without burning using the Diablo 50t combo. This should solve that problem for me. The blade was a post-Christmas purchase with some of the money I received.
> 
> Shaft runout on my Harbor Freight drill press was getting so bad that all I could make were oval holes. No amount of tightening up the side adjustment bolt could resolve this at the full range of the shaft. I was skeptical in the beginning about getting a benchtop SKil from the box store. My luck with Skil tools has been hit or miss. What a difference between theirs and the HF model. I'm happy with it. And now my holes are round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Christmas I took the very generous money and store card gifts to good use. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" benchtop jointer at the box store. I haven't used the jointer yet. It took some time to get the fence perpendicular the bed, which is a known issue with this model. There isn't anything else like it (size and price) in my area, so let's hope this works well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a 10" x 18" midi-lathe from HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have fired-up the lathe…quiet and smooth running. The live and tail centers line up. I forgot to mention that I bought the better of the two sets of woodturning tools from HF when I bought the lathe. My expectations are in line. I'll sharpen them before using and take my time learning how to use them properly and safely. I have high hopes I will be able to use the lathe for many things. Before I do, I need to make a base for it this weekend that will give me the correct working height.
> 
> I finally got around to dealing with a problem I have had since the day I bought it: a grossly inaccurate fence on the Blue Hawk router table. I used leftover melamine from the kitchen remodeling. This is a lot better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around late September of last year the OEM blade on my HF bandsaw broke. I decided to try the Timberwolf line of blades from PS Wood Machines. Wow. What a difference! That little saw cuts through hardwood like a dream. I highly recommend their blades. The one in the picture is their 4tpi blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last but hardly least, today I acquired from one of my clients a Stanley No. 6 roughing plane. It needs some obvious clean-up and tuning. This is my first hand plane larger than a No. 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, all I need is a bunch of minions to help me clean up the mess I made in the dungeon from the kitchen remodeling.


Good stuff!

Your grinder looks like a clone of my Porter Cable, or vise versa. I have no complaints about it, but I did rewire the light so that it can be on even when the grinder is off, instead of only when it's running.

I have the same drill press. I think you'll like it as long as you don't try to overpower it. The length of travel is probably its only weak point.

I well know what it's like woodworking on a small budget. Enjoy!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Past Four Months*
> 
> Last autumn we decided to remodel the kitchen. One failed major appliance started the notion. It was a cascading effect and the main reason behind all the extra work and time consumed. We won't do that again. At any rate, I have been busy acquiring new tools and accessories, most of them coming to me because of an unexpected windfall around the holidays. I'm hoping to express this in a way that doesn't come across as gloating, bragging or ego-tripping. Right now, I can't afford what most of my peers deem nominal in woodworking. I am very, very lucky to have acquired these goodies and rest assured I am grateful to have the help.
> 
> Back in early fall I invested in a new grinder. I wanted one that had a variable speed control. Our one and only box store had a Delta that I could afford.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes the wife surprises me with her commitment and support. For Christmas, with no promoting or foreknowledge from me, she got me an apron, over-bucket tool caddy and carry tool satchel. She knows my true weakness is organization.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When she asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I was at the time looking (once again) at the Work Sharp WS-3000 sharpening system. She told me to order it. Awesome. So that was my 'known' Christmas gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the WS-3000 is a new 10" Diablo ripping blade for the Hitachi. I'm finding it hard to rip oak without burning using the Diablo 50t combo. This should solve that problem for me. The blade was a post-Christmas purchase with some of the money I received.
> 
> Shaft runout on my Harbor Freight drill press was getting so bad that all I could make were oval holes. No amount of tightening up the side adjustment bolt could resolve this at the full range of the shaft. I was skeptical in the beginning about getting a benchtop SKil from the box store. My luck with Skil tools has been hit or miss. What a difference between theirs and the HF model. I'm happy with it. And now my holes are round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Christmas I took the very generous money and store card gifts to good use. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" benchtop jointer at the box store. I haven't used the jointer yet. It took some time to get the fence perpendicular the bed, which is a known issue with this model. There isn't anything else like it (size and price) in my area, so let's hope this works well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a 10" x 18" midi-lathe from HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have fired-up the lathe…quiet and smooth running. The live and tail centers line up. I forgot to mention that I bought the better of the two sets of woodturning tools from HF when I bought the lathe. My expectations are in line. I'll sharpen them before using and take my time learning how to use them properly and safely. I have high hopes I will be able to use the lathe for many things. Before I do, I need to make a base for it this weekend that will give me the correct working height.
> 
> I finally got around to dealing with a problem I have had since the day I bought it: a grossly inaccurate fence on the Blue Hawk router table. I used leftover melamine from the kitchen remodeling. This is a lot better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Around late September of last year the OEM blade on my HF bandsaw broke. I decided to try the Timberwolf line of blades from PS Wood Machines. Wow. What a difference! That little saw cuts through hardwood like a dream. I highly recommend their blades. The one in the picture is their 4tpi blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last but hardly least, today I acquired from one of my clients a Stanley No. 6 roughing plane. It needs some obvious clean-up and tuning. This is my first hand plane larger than a No. 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, all I need is a bunch of minions to help me clean up the mess I made in the dungeon from the kitchen remodeling.





> Good stuff!
> 
> Your grinder looks like a clone of my Porter Cable, or vise versa. I have no complaints about it, but I did rewire the light so that it can be on even when the grinder is off, instead of only when it s running.
> 
> I have the same drill press. I think you ll like it as long as you don t try to overpower it. The length of travel is probably its only weak point.
> 
> I well know what it s like woodworking on a small budget. Enjoy!
> 
> - Dave Rutan


Thanks for the helpful info, Dave. On the Delta I have, power to the light is independent of operation. I, too, would have done something about it if it wasn't.

If you think the travel length of is a weak point on the Skil, consider its predecessor, the HF bench model. Of course, in time I will wish this could do even more. Nature of the beast.


----------



## retired_guru

*Tuning a barely usable trimming plane*

A couple of years ago I bought a Kobalt 3-in Trimming Plane from our one-and-only box store. Since then I have come to learn how poorly made this is (and the other Kobalt planes are.) For me, money spent is money spent. And I'm always game for trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I decided to tune this little sucker up and see what would come of it.

You should have seen what this looked like before I got started. You would have had I thought to take a picture of it, right? palm slap



















The iron supports are uneven at the their tips…by a lot. Someone at the factory got carried away at the grinder. Fortunately, the bed is even and this doesn't affect the iron placement or working of the plane.










All that nice shiny metal? It was covered in a thick, uneven coat of paint. It had pealed away at one corner of the leading edge, too. Any wonder shavings got jammed underneath? I first took this to the WS-3000 and then the stones.










The leading edge of the iron wedge was roughly shaped and covered in pealing paint. A little time spent on the WS-3000 and diamond stones produced a sharp edge with a gradual camber.










Ready to prove it's worth.










Worked okay. For nine bucks, and what I would use this for, I'm good. Someday…better stuff.


----------



## retired_guru

*Tuning a Rabbet Plane*

Last year I acquired this rabbet plane from a computer client. I finally got around to honing the iron and tuning the setup. I ended up eyeballing the iron angle in a Veritas Mk II and came close enough that the new edge would work for this plane. It took a while to get the skew angle eyeballed and locked down. I put an ever-so-slight beveled on the corners.










Wood plane are still a bit of mystery (black art!) to me. It took a lot of fiddling and guess work to figure out how to make the iron adjustable and still keep the wedge in.










Two sets of shavings here, one from oak and the other from pine. On the latter, you can see both thick and thin curls.










The sound. The feel. I had to stop myself from planing into eternity. The pine edge was as smooth as new born baby's butt. I could get used to this.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Tuning a Rabbet Plane*
> 
> Last year I acquired this rabbet plane from a computer client. I finally got around to honing the iron and tuning the setup. I ended up eyeballing the iron angle in a Veritas Mk II and came close enough that the new edge would work for this plane. It took a while to get the skew angle eyeballed and locked down. I put an ever-so-slight beveled on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood plane are still a bit of mystery (black art!) to me. It took a lot of fiddling and guess work to figure out how to make the iron adjustable and still keep the wedge in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two sets of shavings here, one from oak and the other from pine. On the latter, you can see both thick and thin curls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sound. The feel. I had to stop myself from planing into eternity. The pine edge was as smooth as new born baby's butt. I could get used to this.


Nicely done Paul. Looks like you conquered the intricacies of the rabbit plane.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Tuning a Rabbet Plane*
> 
> Last year I acquired this rabbet plane from a computer client. I finally got around to honing the iron and tuning the setup. I ended up eyeballing the iron angle in a Veritas Mk II and came close enough that the new edge would work for this plane. It took a while to get the skew angle eyeballed and locked down. I put an ever-so-slight beveled on the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wood plane are still a bit of mystery (black art!) to me. It took a lot of fiddling and guess work to figure out how to make the iron adjustable and still keep the wedge in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two sets of shavings here, one from oak and the other from pine. On the latter, you can see both thick and thin curls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sound. The feel. I had to stop myself from planing into eternity. The pine edge was as smooth as new born baby's butt. I could get used to this.





> Nicely done Paul. Looks like you conquered the intricacies of the rabbit plane.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. A short time after I posted this I found on closer inspection that the sole is not flat. This is old and well used by the master who had it before me. In the near future I have to decided whether to flatten the sole and accept the larger mouth, add a new piece of hardwood to the sole to bring back to original specs or just make a new body and reuse the iron. So many things going on right now, this can wait.


----------



## retired_guru

*Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide Review*










It's been a year since I bought this. Here is a brief review of it, my impressions.

This model has a straight brass roller on the bottom, so I have to used finger pressure to produce a slight bevel to the corners on plane irons. I haven't checked Veritas (or Lee Valley) to see if I can swap it out for the recently seen cambered roller. If it turns out this can be done, I will purchase one and this issue will be resolved.

The second complaint is a more severe one. The bevel setup guide sucks. The clamping point is a gross connection. It does not provide a 90 degree edge to place the side of the chisel or plane iron against. The inner dimensions of its clamp does not match the track it clamps to, so every time I introduce a chisel or iron I have use a tri-square to set the guide square to the honing guide body before clamping it down on the track. Holding all three components together and getting the clamp tight is a pain in the ass. I would have expected more from a quality name brand.

The third complaint is a common one, that being how difficult it is to work with the knurled brass clamping knobs and how easy it is to get the blade cocked in the clamp due to uneven clamping pressure from tightening one side more than the other.

These issues mean for me a measurable amount of setup time. Once done, I found the heavy guide comfortable and solid to work with. I plan on building a horizontal platform for my Work Sharp WS3000 (Stumpy Nubs' plans) and using this on it for plane irons wider than two inches.

Was it worth the money? Yes, but only because the inexpensive guide I bought from Rockler wasn't working with some of my chisels. I wouldn't hesitate to consider a newer model if it was in the same price range or less.


----------



## retired_guru

*Workshop Update: Knocking the C10FL down a notch*

The Hitachi C10FL I bought off a widow last year has to be one of the best shop investments I have made. It needed a little work, mostly tuning up. Replacing the worn out v-belt with a HF link belt made this smooth running and relatively quiet. I've had it long enough to develop a short list of undesirables for this model. Some of the items on my complaint list are well known design shortcomings. Some are just what bothers me for their respective reasons, like the width of the aluminum rails cutting into my workspace, the splitter instead of a riving knife, the steel plate table extensions that just won't match up for a perfectly flat top, and the favorite: the whale tail fence handle that keeps poking me in the ribs when I am not paying attention. Every product has its compromises and we learn to live with them, mostly. But there was one shortcoming (pun not intended) that bothered me enough I had to do something about it: the height of the saw.









The Hitachi C10FL sitting a proud 37.5" above the floor.

I am 5' 6", the last I measured (and I'm pretty sure I may have lost an inch since then), so a 37.5" height is uncomfortable, forces my short arms closer to the top of the blade than I care for when I push a board past the with a push block, and the sawdust coming off the blade hits me in the neck and upper chest. So I did some digging on the Web. While a controversial measurement with some, a consensus is that the average table saw height is 34-36" . Short Sicilians were obviously not on the menu when Hitachi designed this saw. Furthermore, I had its predecessor, the Skilsaw 10" contractor saw on a shop made base, a total height of 34", to prove that I needed to knock the Hitachi off it high horse.









Close-up of the sheet metal base.

The solution I settled on turned out to be the easiest, the least labor intensive, and the fastest one: I cut the legs down. A total of 3.5" was removed from the legs, one at a time while the saw sat jacked up on a hydraulic table. I removed each leg, measured off the length from the bottom end, cut, placed the caster mounting plate on the new end after press fitting the rubber feet, marked the holes for the bracket, drilled, then reattached. An angle grinder made the cutting easy, followed up by some filing to remove burs and irregular edges. The most difficult part of the task was in unbolting the legs and bolting back on. There isn't a lot of room underneath the base skirts. One of the by-products of the project is a better location for the casters in relation to the bottom edge. When the casters are engaged now, they lift the leg up enough to allow the saw to clear rough terrain, which my shop floor thrives on. Before this, they barely did so and the rubber feet would drag on the floor.









The solution applied. The tall base skirts made it look stouter than it is.









Close-up of the work done.

A couple of people have remarked on it looking like a 'little saw'. Picture angles attribute to the misconception. In the end, it's my saw. It works for me. So there.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Workshop Update: Knocking the C10FL down a notch*
> 
> The Hitachi C10FL I bought off a widow last year has to be one of the best shop investments I have made. It needed a little work, mostly tuning up. Replacing the worn out v-belt with a HF link belt made this smooth running and relatively quiet. I've had it long enough to develop a short list of undesirables for this model. Some of the items on my complaint list are well known design shortcomings. Some are just what bothers me for their respective reasons, like the width of the aluminum rails cutting into my workspace, the splitter instead of a riving knife, the steel plate table extensions that just won't match up for a perfectly flat top, and the favorite: the whale tail fence handle that keeps poking me in the ribs when I am not paying attention. Every product has its compromises and we learn to live with them, mostly. But there was one shortcoming (pun not intended) that bothered me enough I had to do something about it: the height of the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Hitachi C10FL sitting a proud 37.5" above the floor.
> 
> I am 5' 6", the last I measured (and I'm pretty sure I may have lost an inch since then), so a 37.5" height is uncomfortable, forces my short arms closer to the top of the blade than I care for when I push a board past the with a push block, and the sawdust coming off the blade hits me in the neck and upper chest. So I did some digging on the Web. While a controversial measurement with some, a consensus is that the average table saw height is 34-36" . Short Sicilians were obviously not on the menu when Hitachi designed this saw. Furthermore, I had its predecessor, the Skilsaw 10" contractor saw on a shop made base, a total height of 34", to prove that I needed to knock the Hitachi off it high horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the sheet metal base.
> 
> The solution I settled on turned out to be the easiest, the least labor intensive, and the fastest one: I cut the legs down. A total of 3.5" was removed from the legs, one at a time while the saw sat jacked up on a hydraulic table. I removed each leg, measured off the length from the bottom end, cut, placed the caster mounting plate on the new end after press fitting the rubber feet, marked the holes for the bracket, drilled, then reattached. An angle grinder made the cutting easy, followed up by some filing to remove burs and irregular edges. The most difficult part of the task was in unbolting the legs and bolting back on. There isn't a lot of room underneath the base skirts. One of the by-products of the project is a better location for the casters in relation to the bottom edge. When the casters are engaged now, they lift the leg up enough to allow the saw to clear rough terrain, which my shop floor thrives on. Before this, they barely did so and the rubber feet would drag on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The solution applied. The tall base skirts made it look stouter than it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the work done.
> 
> A couple of people have remarked on it looking like a 'little saw'. Picture angles attribute to the misconception. In the end, it's my saw. It works for me. So there.


What ever it takes to be comfortable using your tools is the way to go. Nicely done Paul!!


----------



## retired_guru

*Early Birthday Gifts*

I mentioned to the wife the other day that I had some items in my Wish List from Amazon that she could pick something from for my birthday; anything would be a welcome addition to the workshop and be very much appreciated. Then, realizing some items on the list would be useless with out some others, and she wouldn't know what those relationships would be, I told her I would make up a list for her of groups to pick from. I came up with three, any one of which would be complete and I wouldn't have to buy anything more to use what she bought me. Today a couple of boxes came in. When she got home she told me they were for my birthday, and proceeded to open the boxes for me. Yeah, I think she forgot how the birthday present opening goes.  Well, come to find out she bought all three groups, everything I asked for. Nice, huh?









The package on the bottom right that got hit with the glare is a package of cabinet scrapers.

Earlier today I received an email from Shop Woodworking for the four book series The Practical Woodworker 4 Volume Paperback Set. Over 1,600 pages of old time woodworking goodness. How could I say no? Can't wait. These will definitely take me more than a few hours to read.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Early Birthday Gifts*
> 
> I mentioned to the wife the other day that I had some items in my Wish List from Amazon that she could pick something from for my birthday; anything would be a welcome addition to the workshop and be very much appreciated. Then, realizing some items on the list would be useless with out some others, and she wouldn't know what those relationships would be, I told her I would make up a list for her of groups to pick from. I came up with three, any one of which would be complete and I wouldn't have to buy anything more to use what she bought me. Today a couple of boxes came in. When she got home she told me they were for my birthday, and proceeded to open the boxes for me. Yeah, I think she forgot how the birthday present opening goes.  Well, come to find out she bought all three groups, everything I asked for. Nice, huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package on the bottom right that got hit with the glare is a package of cabinet scrapers.
> 
> Earlier today I received an email from Shop Woodworking for the four book series The Practical Woodworker 4 Volume Paperback Set. Over 1,600 pages of old time woodworking goodness. How could I say no? Can't wait. These will definitely take me more than a few hours to read.


Awesome wives are awesome.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Early Birthday Gifts*
> 
> I mentioned to the wife the other day that I had some items in my Wish List from Amazon that she could pick something from for my birthday; anything would be a welcome addition to the workshop and be very much appreciated. Then, realizing some items on the list would be useless with out some others, and she wouldn't know what those relationships would be, I told her I would make up a list for her of groups to pick from. I came up with three, any one of which would be complete and I wouldn't have to buy anything more to use what she bought me. Today a couple of boxes came in. When she got home she told me they were for my birthday, and proceeded to open the boxes for me. Yeah, I think she forgot how the birthday present opening goes.  Well, come to find out she bought all three groups, everything I asked for. Nice, huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package on the bottom right that got hit with the glare is a package of cabinet scrapers.
> 
> Earlier today I received an email from Shop Woodworking for the four book series The Practical Woodworker 4 Volume Paperback Set. Over 1,600 pages of old time woodworking goodness. How could I say no? Can't wait. These will definitely take me more than a few hours to read.


You better treat her to a nice dinner Paul.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Early Birthday Gifts*
> 
> I mentioned to the wife the other day that I had some items in my Wish List from Amazon that she could pick something from for my birthday; anything would be a welcome addition to the workshop and be very much appreciated. Then, realizing some items on the list would be useless with out some others, and she wouldn't know what those relationships would be, I told her I would make up a list for her of groups to pick from. I came up with three, any one of which would be complete and I wouldn't have to buy anything more to use what she bought me. Today a couple of boxes came in. When she got home she told me they were for my birthday, and proceeded to open the boxes for me. Yeah, I think she forgot how the birthday present opening goes.  Well, come to find out she bought all three groups, everything I asked for. Nice, huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package on the bottom right that got hit with the glare is a package of cabinet scrapers.
> 
> Earlier today I received an email from Shop Woodworking for the four book series The Practical Woodworker 4 Volume Paperback Set. Over 1,600 pages of old time woodworking goodness. How could I say no? Can't wait. These will definitely take me more than a few hours to read.


Hey, Paul,
Nice tool acquisitions! Good to see a new post from you as well!


----------



## retired_guru

*Lathe Base - First Turning*

Finally got the contractor-saw-base-turned-lathe-base done today. There just isn't the room in the dungeon workshop for two table saws. Eventually I will haul the Skilsaw onto the upstairs porch and hang it out of the way. Getting back to the base, I measured the height I needed to fit the formula I gleaned off the Web: that magic height the centers should be off the floor in relation to where your elbow is. I added the five inches to the top of the base and boards along the bottom of the base to give additional shelf space, seeing as I won't need the dust collection trough anymore. As with all the construction in the dungeon, I build it sturdy and let only a mother love its looks.









Back side of the contractor saw base. Small pallet will provide the side rails for the top.









Front and left side of the base.

















Finished top.

Once the lathe was mounted to the base, it was time to try my hand at turning. I took the largest roughing chisel (~ 3/4") from the Harbor Freight Windsor Design kit (item #61794) I bought with the lathe and spent just enough time on the WS-3000 to get a semblance of sharpness. I had no idea what I was going to make. After a short search I settled on a rectangular cross-sectioned short length of seasoned oak I had planed last year. This is really hard stuff.


















It wasn't until I got into the turning that I decided what I wanted make, and I wanted to see if I could do it using only the one chisel. What you see is the result with a little 80 grit sanding to take out the small ridges I left behind. More sanding tomorrow, then a finish before I take it off the lathe. I don't want to screw this up, so I I'll use the band saw to cut off the ends and work them into shape by hand sanding, then add finish.

I surprised myself. I was sure it was going to look like I used a chainsaw for a chisel. There may be hope for me yet.


----------



## Wildwood

retired_guru said:


> *Lathe Base - First Turning*
> 
> Finally got the contractor-saw-base-turned-lathe-base done today. There just isn't the room in the dungeon workshop for two table saws. Eventually I will haul the Skilsaw onto the upstairs porch and hang it out of the way. Getting back to the base, I measured the height I needed to fit the formula I gleaned off the Web: that magic height the centers should be off the floor in relation to where your elbow is. I added the five inches to the top of the base and boards along the bottom of the base to give additional shelf space, seeing as I won't need the dust collection trough anymore. As with all the construction in the dungeon, I build it sturdy and let only a mother love its looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of the contractor saw base. Small pallet will provide the side rails for the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and left side of the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished top.
> 
> Once the lathe was mounted to the base, it was time to try my hand at turning. I took the largest roughing chisel (~ 3/4") from the Harbor Freight Windsor Design kit (item #61794) I bought with the lathe and spent just enough time on the WS-3000 to get a semblance of sharpness. I had no idea what I was going to make. After a short search I settled on a rectangular cross-sectioned short length of seasoned oak I had planed last year. This is really hard stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't until I got into the turning that I decided what I wanted make, and I wanted to see if I could do it using only the one chisel. What you see is the result with a little 80 grit sanding to take out the small ridges I left behind. More sanding tomorrow, then a finish before I take it off the lathe. I don't want to screw this up, so I I'll use the band saw to cut off the ends and work them into shape by hand sanding, then add finish.
> 
> I surprised myself. I was sure it was going to look like I used a chainsaw for a chisel. There may be hope for me yet.


Bandsaw sounds like a good plan, using a parting tool will make it easier to cut on the saw. If use a smaller spindle gouge could define ends little better, then parting tool to band saw.

In any event great first attempt turning on a lathe and that outstanding bench you built.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Lathe Base - First Turning*
> 
> Finally got the contractor-saw-base-turned-lathe-base done today. There just isn't the room in the dungeon workshop for two table saws. Eventually I will haul the Skilsaw onto the upstairs porch and hang it out of the way. Getting back to the base, I measured the height I needed to fit the formula I gleaned off the Web: that magic height the centers should be off the floor in relation to where your elbow is. I added the five inches to the top of the base and boards along the bottom of the base to give additional shelf space, seeing as I won't need the dust collection trough anymore. As with all the construction in the dungeon, I build it sturdy and let only a mother love its looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of the contractor saw base. Small pallet will provide the side rails for the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and left side of the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished top.
> 
> Once the lathe was mounted to the base, it was time to try my hand at turning. I took the largest roughing chisel (~ 3/4") from the Harbor Freight Windsor Design kit (item #61794) I bought with the lathe and spent just enough time on the WS-3000 to get a semblance of sharpness. I had no idea what I was going to make. After a short search I settled on a rectangular cross-sectioned short length of seasoned oak I had planed last year. This is really hard stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't until I got into the turning that I decided what I wanted make, and I wanted to see if I could do it using only the one chisel. What you see is the result with a little 80 grit sanding to take out the small ridges I left behind. More sanding tomorrow, then a finish before I take it off the lathe. I don't want to screw this up, so I I'll use the band saw to cut off the ends and work them into shape by hand sanding, then add finish.
> 
> I surprised myself. I was sure it was going to look like I used a chainsaw for a chisel. There may be hope for me yet.





> Bandsaw sounds like a good plan, using a parting tool will make it easier to cut on the saw. If use a smaller spindle gouge could define ends little better, then parting tool to band saw.
> 
> In any event great first attempt turning on a lathe and that outstanding bench you built.
> 
> - Wildwood


Thank you, Bill. I truly surprised myself.

Yeah, I realized the next day I needed go at it again with a different tool. I ended up using a parting chisel to round off the ends a bit and reduce the amount of waste I would have to saw off. Here are pictures of the finished product. It's now boxed and ready to go into the mail to my one and only grandson.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Lathe Base - First Turning*
> 
> Finally got the contractor-saw-base-turned-lathe-base done today. There just isn't the room in the dungeon workshop for two table saws. Eventually I will haul the Skilsaw onto the upstairs porch and hang it out of the way. Getting back to the base, I measured the height I needed to fit the formula I gleaned off the Web: that magic height the centers should be off the floor in relation to where your elbow is. I added the five inches to the top of the base and boards along the bottom of the base to give additional shelf space, seeing as I won't need the dust collection trough anymore. As with all the construction in the dungeon, I build it sturdy and let only a mother love its looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of the contractor saw base. Small pallet will provide the side rails for the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and left side of the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished top.
> 
> Once the lathe was mounted to the base, it was time to try my hand at turning. I took the largest roughing chisel (~ 3/4") from the Harbor Freight Windsor Design kit (item #61794) I bought with the lathe and spent just enough time on the WS-3000 to get a semblance of sharpness. I had no idea what I was going to make. After a short search I settled on a rectangular cross-sectioned short length of seasoned oak I had planed last year. This is really hard stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't until I got into the turning that I decided what I wanted make, and I wanted to see if I could do it using only the one chisel. What you see is the result with a little 80 grit sanding to take out the small ridges I left behind. More sanding tomorrow, then a finish before I take it off the lathe. I don't want to screw this up, so I I'll use the band saw to cut off the ends and work them into shape by hand sanding, then add finish.
> 
> I surprised myself. I was sure it was going to look like I used a chainsaw for a chisel. There may be hope for me yet.


Hey, Paul,
Good job, man….

Nice stand and equally nice first project..


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Lathe Base - First Turning*
> 
> Finally got the contractor-saw-base-turned-lathe-base done today. There just isn't the room in the dungeon workshop for two table saws. Eventually I will haul the Skilsaw onto the upstairs porch and hang it out of the way. Getting back to the base, I measured the height I needed to fit the formula I gleaned off the Web: that magic height the centers should be off the floor in relation to where your elbow is. I added the five inches to the top of the base and boards along the bottom of the base to give additional shelf space, seeing as I won't need the dust collection trough anymore. As with all the construction in the dungeon, I build it sturdy and let only a mother love its looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side of the contractor saw base. Small pallet will provide the side rails for the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and left side of the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished top.
> 
> Once the lathe was mounted to the base, it was time to try my hand at turning. I took the largest roughing chisel (~ 3/4") from the Harbor Freight Windsor Design kit (item #61794) I bought with the lathe and spent just enough time on the WS-3000 to get a semblance of sharpness. I had no idea what I was going to make. After a short search I settled on a rectangular cross-sectioned short length of seasoned oak I had planed last year. This is really hard stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't until I got into the turning that I decided what I wanted make, and I wanted to see if I could do it using only the one chisel. What you see is the result with a little 80 grit sanding to take out the small ridges I left behind. More sanding tomorrow, then a finish before I take it off the lathe. I don't want to screw this up, so I I'll use the band saw to cut off the ends and work them into shape by hand sanding, then add finish.
> 
> I surprised myself. I was sure it was going to look like I used a chainsaw for a chisel. There may be hope for me yet.





> Hey, Paul,
> Good job, man….
> 
> Nice stand and equally nice first project..
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. The bat went out in the mail the other day. My grandson should have it by tomorrow.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*









My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.


Pure awesome. Happy birthday, Paul!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.





> Pure awesome. Happy birthday, Paul!
> 
> - Ted Ewen


Thanks, Ted! I had a good one.


----------



## visualj

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.


A lot of reading, and lots of information.

Great birthday present.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.





> A lot of reading, and lots of information.
> 
> Great birthday present.
> 
> - visualj


Definitely! No more complaining about what to do when I can't be in the shop.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.


HBD !


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.





> HBD !
> 
> - handsawgeek


Haha. Ed, I know I should know what "HBD" means. Not enough morning coffee, yet. I'll just interpret it as "Oh, cool! You are going to be brilliant in no time!"


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.


Happy Boif-Day (?)

or how about…

Happy Book Diving. ;D


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Practical Woodworker: vol 1 - 4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gift to myself arrived today, right on my birthday. Great timing. Now I have a lot of reading to do.





> Happy Boif-Day (?)
> 
> or how about…
> 
> Happy Book Diving. ;D
> 
> - handsawgeek


Jeeze-Louise. This is why I shouldn't be allowed near sharp instruments without parental guidance.  Thanks, Ed. It was a good day.


----------



## retired_guru

*Lumber racks, and the mess that finally went away!*

I've mentioned to a few before, that putting things in their proper place in the Dungeon workshop is much like playing with one of those sliding puzzles, or more like a Rubik cube. It came down to this: I needed more lumber racks and I needed to sort out the questionable-to-down-right-bad-boards and get them out of the shop.

My first task was to build a rack for sheet goods. The only place with enough space is the entryway into the dungeon. It's full now with most all of the sheet goods I have. I'll take it.










Next was a rack for short boards. These would be pallet slats, cut-offs, and whatever else is short and in quantity.










Finally, I pulled everything out of the the long board rack, sorted out anything questionable or bad, then replaced with all the that was on the floor and leftover from the sorting process. I was able to get everything off the floor!










Of course, all of this organizing left me with all benches filled with…'stuff'. My work is cut our for me, but I can see I am making some progress. The dungeon, as it is now:


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber racks, and the mess that finally went away!*
> 
> I've mentioned to a few before, that putting things in their proper place in the Dungeon workshop is much like playing with one of those sliding puzzles, or more like a Rubik cube. It came down to this: I needed more lumber racks and I needed to sort out the questionable-to-down-right-bad-boards and get them out of the shop.
> 
> My first task was to build a rack for sheet goods. The only place with enough space is the entryway into the dungeon. It's full now with most all of the sheet goods I have. I'll take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was a rack for short boards. These would be pallet slats, cut-offs, and whatever else is short and in quantity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I pulled everything out of the the long board rack, sorted out anything questionable or bad, then replaced with all the that was on the floor and leftover from the sorting process. I was able to get everything off the floor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, all of this organizing left me with all benches filled with…'stuff'. My work is cut our for me, but I can see I am making some progress. The dungeon, as it is now:


Way to go, Paul !
As I've always said "A clean shop is a happy shop!" 
Accomplishment of this is an entirely different story altogether, but it look like you are off to a great start on it.
Yours is definitely evolving into a very nice work space.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber racks, and the mess that finally went away!*
> 
> I've mentioned to a few before, that putting things in their proper place in the Dungeon workshop is much like playing with one of those sliding puzzles, or more like a Rubik cube. It came down to this: I needed more lumber racks and I needed to sort out the questionable-to-down-right-bad-boards and get them out of the shop.
> 
> My first task was to build a rack for sheet goods. The only place with enough space is the entryway into the dungeon. It's full now with most all of the sheet goods I have. I'll take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was a rack for short boards. These would be pallet slats, cut-offs, and whatever else is short and in quantity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I pulled everything out of the the long board rack, sorted out anything questionable or bad, then replaced with all the that was on the floor and leftover from the sorting process. I was able to get everything off the floor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, all of this organizing left me with all benches filled with…'stuff'. My work is cut our for me, but I can see I am making some progress. The dungeon, as it is now:





> Way to go, Paul !
> As I ve always said "A clean shop is a happy shop!"
> Accomplishment of this is an entirely different story altogether, but it look like you are off to a great start on it.
> Yours is definitely evolving into a very nice work space.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. Appreciated.

I must be bipolar, because I require and work best in a neat, clean environment, but for some reason my life is always one big mess. Go figure!


----------



## retired_guru

*Working the shop and Paul Sellers' latest book!*

I keep forgetting to swing by here, visit and post what's happening my way. Totally, my bad.

Progress in the workshop is hit-or-miss, but overall I am gaining more than losing or staying stagnant. Real-life concerns keep interfering: don't we woodworkers have a deity that we can call on to stop this unwanted intrusion into our workshop time? I am working on a few different projects. I'll post pictures once I have finished them.










Yesterday my copy of Paul Sellers' book arrived: Essential Woodworking Hand Tools. At the time of ordering, it was only available to me via his website. Cost was $49.00 USD, plus $6.00 shipping to Upstate NY. I have only had the chance to flip through it. Book binding, page quality and printing are the best. This is a book one will treasure for a lifetime. I plan on reading this like a good mystery novel.

Link to Paul's website and the book.


----------



## Bittersweet

retired_guru said:


> *Working the shop and Paul Sellers' latest book!*
> 
> I keep forgetting to swing by here, visit and post what's happening my way. Totally, my bad.
> 
> Progress in the workshop is hit-or-miss, but overall I am gaining more than losing or staying stagnant. Real-life concerns keep interfering: don't we woodworkers have a deity that we can call on to stop this unwanted intrusion into our workshop time? I am working on a few different projects. I'll post pictures once I have finished them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday my copy of Paul Sellers' book arrived: Essential Woodworking Hand Tools. At the time of ordering, it was only available to me via his website. Cost was $49.00 USD, plus $6.00 shipping to Upstate NY. I have only had the chance to flip through it. Book binding, page quality and printing are the best. This is a book one will treasure for a lifetime. I plan on reading this like a good mystery novel.
> 
> Link to Paul's website and the book.


Sweet looking book. 
I can relate to life getting in the way of woodworkng bit. So true for me also.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Working the shop and Paul Sellers' latest book!*
> 
> I keep forgetting to swing by here, visit and post what's happening my way. Totally, my bad.
> 
> Progress in the workshop is hit-or-miss, but overall I am gaining more than losing or staying stagnant. Real-life concerns keep interfering: don't we woodworkers have a deity that we can call on to stop this unwanted intrusion into our workshop time? I am working on a few different projects. I'll post pictures once I have finished them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday my copy of Paul Sellers' book arrived: Essential Woodworking Hand Tools. At the time of ordering, it was only available to me via his website. Cost was $49.00 USD, plus $6.00 shipping to Upstate NY. I have only had the chance to flip through it. Book binding, page quality and printing are the best. This is a book one will treasure for a lifetime. I plan on reading this like a good mystery novel.
> 
> Link to Paul's website and the book.





> Sweet looking book.


It really is. Everything about it, and the author is a man and craftsman I greatly admire. If anyone can teach this old dog new tricks…



> I can relate to life getting in the way of woodworkng bit. So true for me also.
> 
> - Nikki


Yeah. The things we could accomplish if life would just leave us alone.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Working the shop and Paul Sellers' latest book!*
> 
> I keep forgetting to swing by here, visit and post what's happening my way. Totally, my bad.
> 
> Progress in the workshop is hit-or-miss, but overall I am gaining more than losing or staying stagnant. Real-life concerns keep interfering: don't we woodworkers have a deity that we can call on to stop this unwanted intrusion into our workshop time? I am working on a few different projects. I'll post pictures once I have finished them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday my copy of Paul Sellers' book arrived: Essential Woodworking Hand Tools. At the time of ordering, it was only available to me via his website. Cost was $49.00 USD, plus $6.00 shipping to Upstate NY. I have only had the chance to flip through it. Book binding, page quality and printing are the best. This is a book one will treasure for a lifetime. I plan on reading this like a good mystery novel.
> 
> Link to Paul's website and the book.


Hey, Paul…Great addition to the library !

I hear ya' as well about the 'life getting in the way' stuff.

I believe it was Samuel Clemens who said "Life is just one damn thing after another."

Anyway, enjoy and learn…..


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Working the shop and Paul Sellers' latest book!*
> 
> I keep forgetting to swing by here, visit and post what's happening my way. Totally, my bad.
> 
> Progress in the workshop is hit-or-miss, but overall I am gaining more than losing or staying stagnant. Real-life concerns keep interfering: don't we woodworkers have a deity that we can call on to stop this unwanted intrusion into our workshop time? I am working on a few different projects. I'll post pictures once I have finished them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday my copy of Paul Sellers' book arrived: Essential Woodworking Hand Tools. At the time of ordering, it was only available to me via his website. Cost was $49.00 USD, plus $6.00 shipping to Upstate NY. I have only had the chance to flip through it. Book binding, page quality and printing are the best. This is a book one will treasure for a lifetime. I plan on reading this like a good mystery novel.
> 
> Link to Paul's website and the book.


Thanks, Ed! I'm enjoying Mr. Sellers' writing style as well as knowledge base. I might just learn a thing or two.

Life's just not behaving. I wasted a half a day yesterday trying to resolve a wiring problem with the HF trailer I built last year. I messed up the connection when I replaced the connecting plug and all I was able to do after all that time was get the left turn signal to work only on the back light and all four to corners to blink when I put on the right turn signal. Oy vey. I bought a replacement wiring harness while bringing the wife to a specialist appointment. The first good day I will be under the trailer again. :/

On the good new side, I am finishing up a dog food and water dish server for the youngest daughter and the upcycled table I started earlier this year has found a display home at one of our local liquor stores. I guess it could be worse, right?


----------



## retired_guru

*Carpenter bees...begone!*

This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.

The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.










The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.










Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.










Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.


----------



## oldnovice

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.


Good thing they are only carpenter bees!
In Freemont CA they had a hive of Africanized, very aggressive, bees that killed two dogs and severely injured some people.
Last report they moved the hive, don't know what they did with the bees.

I have seen all types of bee traps and there is no reason yours shouldn't work!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.





> Good thing they are only carpenter bees!
> In Freemont CA they had a hive of Africanized, very aggressive, bees that killed two dogs and severely injured some people.
> Last report they moved the hive, don t know what they did with the bees.


Wow. I am thankful not to have encountered Africanized bees. I don't react well to any bee sting, so I'm sure these would surely do me in in short order.

The female carpenter bees are aggressive, but so far none have actually hurt me. They like to hover around me when I am working outdoors and many times they buzz me like a jet jockey wanting to impress his peers. I read elsewhere that they don't contribute as much to pollination as other bees, so I don't feel bad about getting rid of them. In fact, the only time they seem to go near a flower is to recharge for some more aggressive territory management.



> I have seen all types of bee traps and there is no reason yours shouldn t work!
> 
> - oldnovice


What I gathered from my research is that there aren't specific dimensions or even shapes that are successful. But I do wonder if I used thick enough wood to keep light from coming in through the entry ports. Time will tell.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.


I dunno, I find I like the buzzing. It's a sign of a healthy ecosystem. And, when we are in a crisis of bees, not 'as much' pollination is still significant. You know I am no tree-hugger, but killing 'em just because they are being bees seems wrong somehow. Now if they were wasps or hornets - really aggressive critters like that - sure, but bees?

Not having a go, just discussing.

That being said, I like the lines and proportions. Functional and kinda pretty. Win.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.





> I dunno, I find I like the buzzing. It s a sign of a healthy ecosystem. And, when we are in a crisis of bees, not as much pollination is still significant. You know I am no tree-hugger, but killing em just because they are being bees seems wrong somehow. Now if they were wasps or hornets - really aggressive critters like that - sure, but bees?
> 
> Not having a go, just discussing.
> 
> That being said, I like the lines and proportions. Functional and kinda pretty. Win.
> 
> - Ted Ewen


I leave all other bees alone, Ted. When I mean buzzing, I don't mean the sound. I mean like buzzing a flight tower with the intent on seeing how close one can get to the tower, and they do it not out of curiosity, but because of the female's aggressive nature. They will attack and sting, whereas the makes are benign. These females are trying to make nests or return to last year's, the one they were born in, which amounts to boring into wood and leaving behind larvae. Once they infest an area generations return to use the same nest. They are destructive, like termites, albeit on a much smaller scale. I mentioned that they don't provide much in the way of pollination because I put up with other creatures that are too beneficial to destroy.


----------



## HermitStudio

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.


Ah, that's fair enough. Just channelling my inner hippy I guess


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.





> Ah, that s fair enough. Just channelling my inner hippy I guess
> 
> - Ted Ewen


No worries. I believe in live and let live, as long as my space and possessions are not at risk. Never made it to full-fledged Hippy. I think I got as far as initiate level.


----------



## oldnovice

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.


Paul, Ted, there are many varieties of bees!
In Illinois we had an underground infestation right under the clothes lines. They were hard to remove!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Carpenter bees...begone!*
> 
> This year I decided I had had enough of 'beeing buzzed' by teritorial carpenter bees. I have made two traps so far.
> 
> The first one shown here I hung near the discard wood pile, having noticed a lot of activity in that area this spring. It will have to be relocated once the wood pile is gone, as the trailer will be parked in the spot behind it. The design was found on Instructables. On the backside (not visible in the photo) is another slanted entrance hole located in the top third area of the face. I used Loctite Pro Construction adhesive on this. Messy stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second one I finished making just a little while ago. It has been mounted high up against the outside back porch wall. The bees circle the house over and over again, so hopefully this will entice them to be curious enough to be trapped. I decided to use an empty Miracle Whip plastic jar and lid on this one. Any future ones I make will use the plastic containers-easier to handle, larger than the small Mason canning jars I have, and they don't cost me anything. Titebond III was used in the construction with silicone caulk used to seal the plastic lid to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left and ride sides of the unit have the entrance holes. Back side has a narrow mounting board that is screwed to the porch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly I should expect my first capture in about a week. I'll see how these do before considering a third unit. If only there was a carpenter bee's equivalent to catnip. Hurry up there, little doggies. I've got things to do outside.





> Paul, Ted, there are many varieties of bees!
> In Illinois we had an underground infestation right under the clothes lines. They were hard to remove!
> 
> - oldnovice


Ironically, if the female carpenter bees weren't so aggressive around humans, they wouldn't be noticed until the damage was found and repairs contemplated. As it is, people are doing what I did, search the Web to find out what kind they are and gleaning from that information the damage they can do and how to dispose of them. I'm glad there aren't Africanized bees on my property.


----------



## retired_guru

*Odds and Ends around The Dungeon*

Yesterday I took a small cutt-off of the oak I had leftover from making Laszlo's food and water dish and made a round mallet head from it on the lathe. Then I took a strip of hard maple that had been milled from a quarter split of 30 year old firewood and made a handle from it, also on the lathe. The maple stock wasn't square in cross-section, giving me a rectangular shaped grip. I used sandpaper to soften the edges and give the handle a more comfortable shape.










Because the handle's cross-section isn't round, nor rectangular for that matter (more like a D-shape), mating it to the mallet head was a lot more work than I had planned for. I first used a 3/8" forstner bit to bore two holes at opposite ends of the "D", then chopped out with a chisel the irregular shaped required by the handle. I did okay. Let's say I'm thankful that 5-minute epoxy is gap filling.

After a final sanding, and a clean-up with denatured alcohol, I gave it a twice applied rub with Walnut-flavored Watco Danish Oil.










This was a good skill builder project.

~~~~~~~

While I was in woodturning mode, I figured I had put off long enough the making of a new handle for the end vise on my Harbor Freight "Windsor Design" workbench. There is a large drainage hole underneath the vise, which leads to a deep hollow under the concrete. About a week ago the handle (which was missing one of the plastic end caps that were suppose to keep the handle on the vise) had fallen off, down that rabbit hole. The missing end cap had preceded it days before.










The replacement handle was turned from a rectangular cross-section piece of oak pallet runner, a cut-off that was in my scrap bin. As you can see, the stock wasn't thick enough to be round at the diameter needed. Fortunately, it didn't matter.










The 1/2" dowel was an extremely tight fit. I would need pliers to remove it, so I saw no point in gluing it in. This new handle is almost half again longer than the original, and no way will it be following its predecessor down the rabbit hole.

Now…for those cabinet door knobs…


----------



## retired_guru

*Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer - One Year Anniversary Update*

I thought I would provide an anniversary update on the Harbor Freight trailer build from a year ago. Blog posts on the build are in my archive.

Last year I used an Olympia brand deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements. Here is proof of how well the product works after a year outdoors.


















Not very good. Cracks in the wood were expected, being as it's pine and that much of has been unprotected over time. The pressure treated plywood bedding received an additional two coats of the deck treatment over the wood frame, but it still looks like this will be its last year.

The plan is to light sand the wood and apply a marine polyurethane. This should buy me another year of use. I may decide to lay another sheet of plywood atop the current one. There is a need to stiffen-up the the gate end of the horizontal staves. I'm also thinking about building a platform that goes over the top, so I can add a tarp over the trailer and not worry about it collapsing under the weight of rain and snow. The tarp would minimize UV damage. I was aware of the paint fading to pink before I bought the trailer kit. In the future, probably when the wood is no longer strong enough and safe enough to use, I may consider touching up rust areas and repainting the frame. Maybe. It's a work horse, not a thoroughbred being shown off at the races.

All in all, I can't complain much. I have into this half of what a commercial made trailer this size would have cost me. This build met my needs where others would not have. The only problem I've had with it since its inception is the bad right tail light which cost me an upgraded pair from Lowe's, and running ground wires from each light receptacle to a common ground point on the hitch receptacle: both were done this week to make state inspection. Not bad at all.


----------



## robscastle

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer - One Year Anniversary Update*
> 
> I thought I would provide an anniversary update on the Harbor Freight trailer build from a year ago. Blog posts on the build are in my archive.
> 
> Last year I used an Olympia brand deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements. Here is proof of how well the product works after a year outdoors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not very good. Cracks in the wood were expected, being as it's pine and that much of has been unprotected over time. The pressure treated plywood bedding received an additional two coats of the deck treatment over the wood frame, but it still looks like this will be its last year.
> 
> The plan is to light sand the wood and apply a marine polyurethane. This should buy me another year of use. I may decide to lay another sheet of plywood atop the current one. There is a need to stiffen-up the the gate end of the horizontal staves. I'm also thinking about building a platform that goes over the top, so I can add a tarp over the trailer and not worry about it collapsing under the weight of rain and snow. The tarp would minimize UV damage. I was aware of the paint fading to pink before I bought the trailer kit. In the future, probably when the wood is no longer strong enough and safe enough to use, I may consider touching up rust areas and repainting the frame. Maybe. It's a work horse, not a thoroughbred being shown off at the races.
> 
> All in all, I can't complain much. I have into this half of what a commercial made trailer this size would have cost me. This build met my needs where others would not have. The only problem I've had with it since its inception is the bad right tail light which cost me an upgraded pair from Lowe's, and running ground wires from each light receptacle to a common ground point on the hitch receptacle: both were done this week to make state inspection. Not bad at all.


Paul,

I do not think you will get any more than 12 months out of any exposed deck finish
I have a sundial and a wooden log seat both of which get a sand back and retreat just about every year.
Although Marine and other UV protected products have great UV protection it does not last forever as much as we all would like it to be.

Looks like your maintenance routine is going to work OK.

Why have you got so many pots? your profile doesnt give anything away.

I would also like to see what a railway boom house looks like please


----------



## zincter

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer - One Year Anniversary Update*
> 
> I thought I would provide an anniversary update on the Harbor Freight trailer build from a year ago. Blog posts on the build are in my archive.
> 
> Last year I used an Olympia brand deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements. Here is proof of how well the product works after a year outdoors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not very good. Cracks in the wood were expected, being as it's pine and that much of has been unprotected over time. The pressure treated plywood bedding received an additional two coats of the deck treatment over the wood frame, but it still looks like this will be its last year.
> 
> The plan is to light sand the wood and apply a marine polyurethane. This should buy me another year of use. I may decide to lay another sheet of plywood atop the current one. There is a need to stiffen-up the the gate end of the horizontal staves. I'm also thinking about building a platform that goes over the top, so I can add a tarp over the trailer and not worry about it collapsing under the weight of rain and snow. The tarp would minimize UV damage. I was aware of the paint fading to pink before I bought the trailer kit. In the future, probably when the wood is no longer strong enough and safe enough to use, I may consider touching up rust areas and repainting the frame. Maybe. It's a work horse, not a thoroughbred being shown off at the races.
> 
> All in all, I can't complain much. I have into this half of what a commercial made trailer this size would have cost me. This build met my needs where others would not have. The only problem I've had with it since its inception is the bad right tail light which cost me an upgraded pair from Lowe's, and running ground wires from each light receptacle to a common ground point on the hitch receptacle: both were done this week to make state inspection. Not bad at all.


Hey Paul,

I just came across your original post for this trailer and your great sides. It has really held up well! If your tutorial pics are still available, would you kindly point me in the right direction?

Thank you in advance for any help,

Jim


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer - One Year Anniversary Update*
> 
> I thought I would provide an anniversary update on the Harbor Freight trailer build from a year ago. Blog posts on the build are in my archive.
> 
> Last year I used an Olympia brand deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements. Here is proof of how well the product works after a year outdoors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not very good. Cracks in the wood were expected, being as it's pine and that much of has been unprotected over time. The pressure treated plywood bedding received an additional two coats of the deck treatment over the wood frame, but it still looks like this will be its last year.
> 
> The plan is to light sand the wood and apply a marine polyurethane. This should buy me another year of use. I may decide to lay another sheet of plywood atop the current one. There is a need to stiffen-up the the gate end of the horizontal staves. I'm also thinking about building a platform that goes over the top, so I can add a tarp over the trailer and not worry about it collapsing under the weight of rain and snow. The tarp would minimize UV damage. I was aware of the paint fading to pink before I bought the trailer kit. In the future, probably when the wood is no longer strong enough and safe enough to use, I may consider touching up rust areas and repainting the frame. Maybe. It's a work horse, not a thoroughbred being shown off at the races.
> 
> All in all, I can't complain much. I have into this half of what a commercial made trailer this size would have cost me. This build met my needs where others would not have. The only problem I've had with it since its inception is the bad right tail light which cost me an upgraded pair from Lowe's, and running ground wires from each light receptacle to a common ground point on the hitch receptacle: both were done this week to make state inspection. Not bad at all.





> I do not think you will get any more than 12 months out of any exposed deck finish
> I have a sundial and a wooden log seat both of which get a sand back and retreat just about every year.
> Although Marine and other UV protected products have great UV protection it does not last forever as much as we all would like it to be.
> 
> Looks like your maintenance routine is going to work OK.


I'm sure you are right. Expected better, though. Just have to be an annual thing, I guess.



> Why have you got so many pots? your profile doesnt give anything away.


The wife and I have been pot gardening for the past few years. Last year we decided to try paying pallets out, two deep, and putting out a lot more pots. Between two much sun and rain, our productivity wasn't very good. These are the left-overs that probably will never get used on this property. Not sure what to do with them: keep for a future location with more space or get rid of them.



> I would also like to see what a railway boom house looks like please
> 
> - robscastle


Heh. Nothing special, believe me. Needing new wood trim and paint.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer - One Year Anniversary Update*
> 
> I thought I would provide an anniversary update on the Harbor Freight trailer build from a year ago. Blog posts on the build are in my archive.
> 
> Last year I used an Olympia brand deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements. Here is proof of how well the product works after a year outdoors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not very good. Cracks in the wood were expected, being as it's pine and that much of has been unprotected over time. The pressure treated plywood bedding received an additional two coats of the deck treatment over the wood frame, but it still looks like this will be its last year.
> 
> The plan is to light sand the wood and apply a marine polyurethane. This should buy me another year of use. I may decide to lay another sheet of plywood atop the current one. There is a need to stiffen-up the the gate end of the horizontal staves. I'm also thinking about building a platform that goes over the top, so I can add a tarp over the trailer and not worry about it collapsing under the weight of rain and snow. The tarp would minimize UV damage. I was aware of the paint fading to pink before I bought the trailer kit. In the future, probably when the wood is no longer strong enough and safe enough to use, I may consider touching up rust areas and repainting the frame. Maybe. It's a work horse, not a thoroughbred being shown off at the races.
> 
> All in all, I can't complain much. I have into this half of what a commercial made trailer this size would have cost me. This build met my needs where others would not have. The only problem I've had with it since its inception is the bad right tail light which cost me an upgraded pair from Lowe's, and running ground wires from each light receptacle to a common ground point on the hitch receptacle: both were done this week to make state inspection. Not bad at all.





> I just came across your original post for this trailer and your great sides. It has really held up well! If your tutorial pics are still available, would you kindly point me in the right direction?
> 
> Thank you in advance for any help,
> 
> Jim
> 
> - zincter


Jim, thanks. It was a first-time build of this nature and came out much better than it should have. I suppose if I could have kept it inside of a garage or covered and protected under a roof of some kind it would have faired better. That it still works well and needed nothing more than new rear lights (better quality than the crappy HF ones) is a reward in itself.

I posted a longer run of pics and explanations on Google+ way back when I was making it. I have since closed down my G+ account. I don't recall what I may have posted on my Facebook account. You can find me there under 'pmbucalo.' If not much or anything at all is there, I guess what I have for pics are not online. I never made up a plan or step-by-step directions. I think that once you have the trailer you can figure out what I did from the pics alone.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight 4'x8' Folding Utility Trailer - One Year Anniversary Update*
> 
> I thought I would provide an anniversary update on the Harbor Freight trailer build from a year ago. Blog posts on the build are in my archive.
> 
> Last year I used an Olympia brand deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements. Here is proof of how well the product works after a year outdoors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not very good. Cracks in the wood were expected, being as it's pine and that much of has been unprotected over time. The pressure treated plywood bedding received an additional two coats of the deck treatment over the wood frame, but it still looks like this will be its last year.
> 
> The plan is to light sand the wood and apply a marine polyurethane. This should buy me another year of use. I may decide to lay another sheet of plywood atop the current one. There is a need to stiffen-up the the gate end of the horizontal staves. I'm also thinking about building a platform that goes over the top, so I can add a tarp over the trailer and not worry about it collapsing under the weight of rain and snow. The tarp would minimize UV damage. I was aware of the paint fading to pink before I bought the trailer kit. In the future, probably when the wood is no longer strong enough and safe enough to use, I may consider touching up rust areas and repainting the frame. Maybe. It's a work horse, not a thoroughbred being shown off at the races.
> 
> All in all, I can't complain much. I have into this half of what a commercial made trailer this size would have cost me. This build met my needs where others would not have. The only problem I've had with it since its inception is the bad right tail light which cost me an upgraded pair from Lowe's, and running ground wires from each light receptacle to a common ground point on the hitch receptacle: both were done this week to make state inspection. Not bad at all.


Over the past few weeks I have moved 5 pickup truck loads (8' box with discarded and rotten wood piled as high as the top of the box) to my sister-in-law's-she will use the lumber for bonfires on her rural property-and just this past week cut back the jungle to allow for the HF trailer to be store. While it's there now, I will have to pull it out soon, fill in with crushed stone so the ground is level and to inhibit weed growth. I don't know what I didn't do this last year. Just makes sense.










Next step is to clean out the right side, which has junk that has to be brought to the landfill and auto crusher's. I hope to cut down more jungle and put up a small shed up in place of it.


----------



## retired_guru

*Tool Acquisition: Dad's saws and set*










My brothers and I are slowly wading through 50+ years worth of valuables and junk in my father's home. Soon to be 88, he no longer can manage the house and is finding communal living among his peers not as bad as he thought. Most of my dad's tools are cheap and uninteresting even with time on them. He does have several items that he obviously paid good money for and were worth keeping.

The only item in the group picture that I really didn't need was the Stanley "Hard Tooth Saw" back saw. I have a new one with the same hardened teeth and as you know these are cheap to buy new and plentiful.










I wanted a tooth set, so that was a welcome surprise. No branding on the tool. I'm sure someone knows just from having bought one before.










The hand saw on the left is unmarked, so I am guessing it was an inexpensive box store choice. As far as I can tell (with not-great eyesight and some test cuts with and against the grain on soft pine) the teeth are formed for ripping. I was surprised at how well it cut after years of neglect and probably never having been sharpened since purchase. If this is a rip saw, I'm quite happy. Can't buy these new in my neck of the woods.










The hand saw on the right is a Swedish made saw. I haven't taken a magnifying lens to the teeth, but again the saw seems to do better in ripping than cross-cutting and the teeth appear to me to be chisel-shaped.










I did notice a tooth pattern I am not familiar with (which isn't saying much, really) so I posted a poorly focused close-up of the pattern. Look to the left and notice the stepped tooth pattern in the first two pairs. Is this something worth noting?

The rusty looking bow saw blade on the right I think is for pruning tree limbs. Since the surface rust isn't very deep I may keep it.


----------



## AgentTwitch

retired_guru said:


> *Tool Acquisition: Dad's saws and set*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brothers and I are slowly wading through 50+ years worth of valuables and junk in my father's home. Soon to be 88, he no longer can manage the house and is finding communal living among his peers not as bad as he thought. Most of my dad's tools are cheap and uninteresting even with time on them. He does have several items that he obviously paid good money for and were worth keeping.
> 
> The only item in the group picture that I really didn't need was the Stanley "Hard Tooth Saw" back saw. I have a new one with the same hardened teeth and as you know these are cheap to buy new and plentiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a tooth set, so that was a welcome surprise. No branding on the tool. I'm sure someone knows just from having bought one before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the left is unmarked, so I am guessing it was an inexpensive box store choice. As far as I can tell (with not-great eyesight and some test cuts with and against the grain on soft pine) the teeth are formed for ripping. I was surprised at how well it cut after years of neglect and probably never having been sharpened since purchase. If this is a rip saw, I'm quite happy. Can't buy these new in my neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the right is a Swedish made saw. I haven't taken a magnifying lens to the teeth, but again the saw seems to do better in ripping than cross-cutting and the teeth appear to me to be chisel-shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did notice a tooth pattern I am not familiar with (which isn't saying much, really) so I posted a poorly focused close-up of the pattern. Look to the left and notice the stepped tooth pattern in the first two pairs. Is this something worth noting?
> 
> The rusty looking bow saw blade on the right I think is for pruning tree limbs. Since the surface rust isn't very deep I may keep it.


The saw set looks an awful lot like a Stanley Defiance saw set. The saw tooth geometry is fairly common in new budget minded saws of today. It allows for easy start of the cut and cuts on both the pull and push stroke. The downside is that its not very aggressive and can take a while to finish a cut. The difference in saw gullet size is likely from the steep angle of the file stroke on alternating sides of the saw plate.


----------



## stefang

retired_guru said:


> *Tool Acquisition: Dad's saws and set*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brothers and I are slowly wading through 50+ years worth of valuables and junk in my father's home. Soon to be 88, he no longer can manage the house and is finding communal living among his peers not as bad as he thought. Most of my dad's tools are cheap and uninteresting even with time on them. He does have several items that he obviously paid good money for and were worth keeping.
> 
> The only item in the group picture that I really didn't need was the Stanley "Hard Tooth Saw" back saw. I have a new one with the same hardened teeth and as you know these are cheap to buy new and plentiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a tooth set, so that was a welcome surprise. No branding on the tool. I'm sure someone knows just from having bought one before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the left is unmarked, so I am guessing it was an inexpensive box store choice. As far as I can tell (with not-great eyesight and some test cuts with and against the grain on soft pine) the teeth are formed for ripping. I was surprised at how well it cut after years of neglect and probably never having been sharpened since purchase. If this is a rip saw, I'm quite happy. Can't buy these new in my neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the right is a Swedish made saw. I haven't taken a magnifying lens to the teeth, but again the saw seems to do better in ripping than cross-cutting and the teeth appear to me to be chisel-shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did notice a tooth pattern I am not familiar with (which isn't saying much, really) so I posted a poorly focused close-up of the pattern. Look to the left and notice the stepped tooth pattern in the first two pairs. Is this something worth noting?
> 
> The rusty looking bow saw blade on the right I think is for pruning tree limbs. Since the surface rust isn't very deep I may keep it.


Great that you got some useful items there. It probably won't be too long before my tools will be going to my kids/grandkids. I kind of envy them since it has taken me 20 years to acquire a full range of machines and hand tools and most are pretty good quality. I just hope they will be interested enough to actually use them. I have spent time with the grandkids over the years preparing the way, but unfortunately their dads don't seem that keen on woodworking.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Tool Acquisition: Dad's saws and set*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brothers and I are slowly wading through 50+ years worth of valuables and junk in my father's home. Soon to be 88, he no longer can manage the house and is finding communal living among his peers not as bad as he thought. Most of my dad's tools are cheap and uninteresting even with time on them. He does have several items that he obviously paid good money for and were worth keeping.
> 
> The only item in the group picture that I really didn't need was the Stanley "Hard Tooth Saw" back saw. I have a new one with the same hardened teeth and as you know these are cheap to buy new and plentiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a tooth set, so that was a welcome surprise. No branding on the tool. I'm sure someone knows just from having bought one before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the left is unmarked, so I am guessing it was an inexpensive box store choice. As far as I can tell (with not-great eyesight and some test cuts with and against the grain on soft pine) the teeth are formed for ripping. I was surprised at how well it cut after years of neglect and probably never having been sharpened since purchase. If this is a rip saw, I'm quite happy. Can't buy these new in my neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the right is a Swedish made saw. I haven't taken a magnifying lens to the teeth, but again the saw seems to do better in ripping than cross-cutting and the teeth appear to me to be chisel-shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did notice a tooth pattern I am not familiar with (which isn't saying much, really) so I posted a poorly focused close-up of the pattern. Look to the left and notice the stepped tooth pattern in the first two pairs. Is this something worth noting?
> 
> The rusty looking bow saw blade on the right I think is for pruning tree limbs. Since the surface rust isn't very deep I may keep it.





> The saw set looks an awful lot like a Stanley Defiance saw set. The saw tooth geometry is fairly common in new budget minded saws of today. It allows for easy start of the cut and cuts on both the pull and push stroke. The downside is that its not very aggressive and can take a while to finish a cut. The difference in saw gullet size is likely from the steep angle of the file stroke on alternating sides of the saw plate.
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Norm, when you say 'fairly common in new budget minded saws of today', are you going back to the '60s, when my father bought this saw, as modern times? I've never seen this tooth pattern. And yes, I have noticed it does aggressively cut. Thanks for the info. Would you recommend reshaping to a traditional pattern?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Tool Acquisition: Dad's saws and set*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brothers and I are slowly wading through 50+ years worth of valuables and junk in my father's home. Soon to be 88, he no longer can manage the house and is finding communal living among his peers not as bad as he thought. Most of my dad's tools are cheap and uninteresting even with time on them. He does have several items that he obviously paid good money for and were worth keeping.
> 
> The only item in the group picture that I really didn't need was the Stanley "Hard Tooth Saw" back saw. I have a new one with the same hardened teeth and as you know these are cheap to buy new and plentiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a tooth set, so that was a welcome surprise. No branding on the tool. I'm sure someone knows just from having bought one before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the left is unmarked, so I am guessing it was an inexpensive box store choice. As far as I can tell (with not-great eyesight and some test cuts with and against the grain on soft pine) the teeth are formed for ripping. I was surprised at how well it cut after years of neglect and probably never having been sharpened since purchase. If this is a rip saw, I'm quite happy. Can't buy these new in my neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand saw on the right is a Swedish made saw. I haven't taken a magnifying lens to the teeth, but again the saw seems to do better in ripping than cross-cutting and the teeth appear to me to be chisel-shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did notice a tooth pattern I am not familiar with (which isn't saying much, really) so I posted a poorly focused close-up of the pattern. Look to the left and notice the stepped tooth pattern in the first two pairs. Is this something worth noting?
> 
> The rusty looking bow saw blade on the right I think is for pruning tree limbs. Since the surface rust isn't very deep I may keep it.





> Great that you got some useful items there. It probably won t be too long before my tools will be going to my kids/grandkids. I kind of envy them since it has taken me 20 years to acquire a full range of machines and hand tools and most are pretty good quality. I just hope they will be interested enough to actually use them. I have spent time with the grandkids over the years preparing the way, but unfortunately their dads don t seem that keen on woodworking.
> 
> - stefang


I hear you. My one and only grandkid is only interested in 3D modeling in Minecraft and animation videos. My two daughters haven't any interest, either. I suspect when I go I'll expect my wife to sell off what I have. Well, unless I can take it all with me by then.


----------



## retired_guru

*Dungeon Workshop: Update Summer 2016, ad nauseum*

So where have I been since June? Sick for over a month. Then dealing with Dad's Estate Sale, which was a lot of work. And then playing catchup on projects that should have been started months before. I'm still running full speed to get caught up before the cold weather arrives. Not sure if I will make it.

Earlier I had some projects in the works. As it turned out, they were all back-burnered or resolved without completion. I wasn't upset. The dungeon needed to be organized and made totally usable before winter came and I knew the only way to do this was to put aside everything else and dig in. These pictures are of where I am as of this date. If you haven't been following my blog since the beginning, you would do well to stop now, head back to the beginning, and see what the dungeon looked like back then. A lot has changed. I've found tools I had forgotten I had, acquired more tools, either through my father or on my own travels, and got rid of some that didn't cut it or weren't useful. I'm about 80% there now. Not bad when you consider where I started.









I've run out of room for sheet goods!









Also outside of the dungeon. A temp location for recently acquired reclaimed studs. I use these for general construction in the dungeon.









And this rack has been filled with some studs, way in the back and on the bottom, but mostly with short stock white and red oak.









Some subtle differences, like the assembly table raised to just under the same height as the two table saws, and a heavy shelf placed underneath. I've started to lay down rubber mats to cushion my feet and make floor cleaning a little easier.









A shallow cabinet was made and hung on the wall. Not sure if I will put the grinders back onto the bureau top or leave as a workspace.









What's in the cabinet? Kreg stuff on the left, chisels on the right.









This room was totally full of junk. It's been cleaned out and filled back up with…junk. Funny how that works. Actually, there are a couple of new benches and a small table in the room that will eventually be utilized properly. As I work over the other end of the shop this becomes the new catch-all.









I've relocated the drill press (in later pictures) and stripped the back wall of everything that related to it. I'm not sure if the router table with stay, which would mean the bits above would, or whether I will remove both the yellow cabinet and router table to free up that space. It's very tight between these and the aluminum rail ends of the Hitachi table saw. The jigsaw is going elsewhere and the portable table beneath it will be folded up and put away.









Finally! I got around to putting up a pegboard framing above the workbench and hung some of my tools. Needless to say, my work flow has improved tremendously with having tools readily at hand.









Totally as an after-thought, after I had placed the newly made bench in the foreground, I build a false wall that lays atop of the two benches and is attached at the top to the house's exterior beam. Wire racks came from Dad's house as did the plywood backing board. Small shelf on the right was a left over from one I made and put up a while ago.









The steel shelf on top of the wide bench shows how much the concrete floor slopes away from the wall. Right now it stores most of my powered hand tools. Relocation of the drill press and mounting of related stuff on the back wall.









The plastic cabinets in this picture were reinforced with an external wood skeleton and stacked to better use space. The shelving up above is the parent project to the one in the other side of the large bench. The grinders and benchtop jointer will most likely not end up on the island bench. A good place for them while I expand out into the room on the far right of this bench.









I made a spot for the 10"x18" midi-lathe.









The last frontier. A bench will be made for the wall on the left. Not sure what else can go in this spot. The least driest spot in the dungeon.









Looking back. I dream of the day when the only things laying on the bench tops are the projects in the works and the tools immediately making them happen.

I plan on catching up with notifications I missed real soon. Thanks.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Workshop: Update Summer 2016, ad nauseum*
> 
> So where have I been since June? Sick for over a month. Then dealing with Dad's Estate Sale, which was a lot of work. And then playing catchup on projects that should have been started months before. I'm still running full speed to get caught up before the cold weather arrives. Not sure if I will make it.
> 
> Earlier I had some projects in the works. As it turned out, they were all back-burnered or resolved without completion. I wasn't upset. The dungeon needed to be organized and made totally usable before winter came and I knew the only way to do this was to put aside everything else and dig in. These pictures are of where I am as of this date. If you haven't been following my blog since the beginning, you would do well to stop now, head back to the beginning, and see what the dungeon looked like back then. A lot has changed. I've found tools I had forgotten I had, acquired more tools, either through my father or on my own travels, and got rid of some that didn't cut it or weren't useful. I'm about 80% there now. Not bad when you consider where I started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run out of room for sheet goods!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also outside of the dungeon. A temp location for recently acquired reclaimed studs. I use these for general construction in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this rack has been filled with some studs, way in the back and on the bottom, but mostly with short stock white and red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some subtle differences, like the assembly table raised to just under the same height as the two table saws, and a heavy shelf placed underneath. I've started to lay down rubber mats to cushion my feet and make floor cleaning a little easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shallow cabinet was made and hung on the wall. Not sure if I will put the grinders back onto the bureau top or leave as a workspace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's in the cabinet? Kreg stuff on the left, chisels on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This room was totally full of junk. It's been cleaned out and filled back up with…junk. Funny how that works. Actually, there are a couple of new benches and a small table in the room that will eventually be utilized properly. As I work over the other end of the shop this becomes the new catch-all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've relocated the drill press (in later pictures) and stripped the back wall of everything that related to it. I'm not sure if the router table with stay, which would mean the bits above would, or whether I will remove both the yellow cabinet and router table to free up that space. It's very tight between these and the aluminum rail ends of the Hitachi table saw. The jigsaw is going elsewhere and the portable table beneath it will be folded up and put away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally! I got around to putting up a pegboard framing above the workbench and hung some of my tools. Needless to say, my work flow has improved tremendously with having tools readily at hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally as an after-thought, after I had placed the newly made bench in the foreground, I build a false wall that lays atop of the two benches and is attached at the top to the house's exterior beam. Wire racks came from Dad's house as did the plywood backing board. Small shelf on the right was a left over from one I made and put up a while ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The steel shelf on top of the wide bench shows how much the concrete floor slopes away from the wall. Right now it stores most of my powered hand tools. Relocation of the drill press and mounting of related stuff on the back wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plastic cabinets in this picture were reinforced with an external wood skeleton and stacked to better use space. The shelving up above is the parent project to the one in the other side of the large bench. The grinders and benchtop jointer will most likely not end up on the island bench. A good place for them while I expand out into the room on the far right of this bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a spot for the 10"x18" midi-lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last frontier. A bench will be made for the wall on the left. Not sure what else can go in this spot. The least driest spot in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking back. I dream of the day when the only things laying on the bench tops are the projects in the works and the tools immediately making them happen.
> 
> I plan on catching up with notifications I missed real soon. Thanks.


Paul, I remember when you started work on the dungeon. You have come a long way in converting it to a functional shop. Nicely done.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Workshop: Update Summer 2016, ad nauseum*
> 
> So where have I been since June? Sick for over a month. Then dealing with Dad's Estate Sale, which was a lot of work. And then playing catchup on projects that should have been started months before. I'm still running full speed to get caught up before the cold weather arrives. Not sure if I will make it.
> 
> Earlier I had some projects in the works. As it turned out, they were all back-burnered or resolved without completion. I wasn't upset. The dungeon needed to be organized and made totally usable before winter came and I knew the only way to do this was to put aside everything else and dig in. These pictures are of where I am as of this date. If you haven't been following my blog since the beginning, you would do well to stop now, head back to the beginning, and see what the dungeon looked like back then. A lot has changed. I've found tools I had forgotten I had, acquired more tools, either through my father or on my own travels, and got rid of some that didn't cut it or weren't useful. I'm about 80% there now. Not bad when you consider where I started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run out of room for sheet goods!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also outside of the dungeon. A temp location for recently acquired reclaimed studs. I use these for general construction in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this rack has been filled with some studs, way in the back and on the bottom, but mostly with short stock white and red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some subtle differences, like the assembly table raised to just under the same height as the two table saws, and a heavy shelf placed underneath. I've started to lay down rubber mats to cushion my feet and make floor cleaning a little easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shallow cabinet was made and hung on the wall. Not sure if I will put the grinders back onto the bureau top or leave as a workspace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's in the cabinet? Kreg stuff on the left, chisels on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This room was totally full of junk. It's been cleaned out and filled back up with…junk. Funny how that works. Actually, there are a couple of new benches and a small table in the room that will eventually be utilized properly. As I work over the other end of the shop this becomes the new catch-all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've relocated the drill press (in later pictures) and stripped the back wall of everything that related to it. I'm not sure if the router table with stay, which would mean the bits above would, or whether I will remove both the yellow cabinet and router table to free up that space. It's very tight between these and the aluminum rail ends of the Hitachi table saw. The jigsaw is going elsewhere and the portable table beneath it will be folded up and put away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally! I got around to putting up a pegboard framing above the workbench and hung some of my tools. Needless to say, my work flow has improved tremendously with having tools readily at hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally as an after-thought, after I had placed the newly made bench in the foreground, I build a false wall that lays atop of the two benches and is attached at the top to the house's exterior beam. Wire racks came from Dad's house as did the plywood backing board. Small shelf on the right was a left over from one I made and put up a while ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The steel shelf on top of the wide bench shows how much the concrete floor slopes away from the wall. Right now it stores most of my powered hand tools. Relocation of the drill press and mounting of related stuff on the back wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plastic cabinets in this picture were reinforced with an external wood skeleton and stacked to better use space. The shelving up above is the parent project to the one in the other side of the large bench. The grinders and benchtop jointer will most likely not end up on the island bench. A good place for them while I expand out into the room on the far right of this bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a spot for the 10"x18" midi-lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last frontier. A bench will be made for the wall on the left. Not sure what else can go in this spot. The least driest spot in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking back. I dream of the day when the only things laying on the bench tops are the projects in the works and the tools immediately making them happen.
> 
> I plan on catching up with notifications I missed real soon. Thanks.





> Paul, I remember when you started work on the dungeon. You have come a long way in converting it to a functional shop. Nicely done.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. This year I committed to completing the shop. I'm getting there.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Workshop: Update Summer 2016, ad nauseum*
> 
> So where have I been since June? Sick for over a month. Then dealing with Dad's Estate Sale, which was a lot of work. And then playing catchup on projects that should have been started months before. I'm still running full speed to get caught up before the cold weather arrives. Not sure if I will make it.
> 
> Earlier I had some projects in the works. As it turned out, they were all back-burnered or resolved without completion. I wasn't upset. The dungeon needed to be organized and made totally usable before winter came and I knew the only way to do this was to put aside everything else and dig in. These pictures are of where I am as of this date. If you haven't been following my blog since the beginning, you would do well to stop now, head back to the beginning, and see what the dungeon looked like back then. A lot has changed. I've found tools I had forgotten I had, acquired more tools, either through my father or on my own travels, and got rid of some that didn't cut it or weren't useful. I'm about 80% there now. Not bad when you consider where I started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run out of room for sheet goods!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also outside of the dungeon. A temp location for recently acquired reclaimed studs. I use these for general construction in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this rack has been filled with some studs, way in the back and on the bottom, but mostly with short stock white and red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some subtle differences, like the assembly table raised to just under the same height as the two table saws, and a heavy shelf placed underneath. I've started to lay down rubber mats to cushion my feet and make floor cleaning a little easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shallow cabinet was made and hung on the wall. Not sure if I will put the grinders back onto the bureau top or leave as a workspace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's in the cabinet? Kreg stuff on the left, chisels on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This room was totally full of junk. It's been cleaned out and filled back up with…junk. Funny how that works. Actually, there are a couple of new benches and a small table in the room that will eventually be utilized properly. As I work over the other end of the shop this becomes the new catch-all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've relocated the drill press (in later pictures) and stripped the back wall of everything that related to it. I'm not sure if the router table with stay, which would mean the bits above would, or whether I will remove both the yellow cabinet and router table to free up that space. It's very tight between these and the aluminum rail ends of the Hitachi table saw. The jigsaw is going elsewhere and the portable table beneath it will be folded up and put away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally! I got around to putting up a pegboard framing above the workbench and hung some of my tools. Needless to say, my work flow has improved tremendously with having tools readily at hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally as an after-thought, after I had placed the newly made bench in the foreground, I build a false wall that lays atop of the two benches and is attached at the top to the house's exterior beam. Wire racks came from Dad's house as did the plywood backing board. Small shelf on the right was a left over from one I made and put up a while ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The steel shelf on top of the wide bench shows how much the concrete floor slopes away from the wall. Right now it stores most of my powered hand tools. Relocation of the drill press and mounting of related stuff on the back wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plastic cabinets in this picture were reinforced with an external wood skeleton and stacked to better use space. The shelving up above is the parent project to the one in the other side of the large bench. The grinders and benchtop jointer will most likely not end up on the island bench. A good place for them while I expand out into the room on the far right of this bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a spot for the 10"x18" midi-lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last frontier. A bench will be made for the wall on the left. Not sure what else can go in this spot. The least driest spot in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking back. I dream of the day when the only things laying on the bench tops are the projects in the works and the tools immediately making them happen.
> 
> I plan on catching up with notifications I missed real soon. Thanks.


Hey, Paul,
You're 'happy place' looks mo' better all the time. I really like the photo of the sunlit lathe.

I'm in the same boat as you - haven't blogged here in a long time. Mainly because I am immersed in my model rocket activities. That bug really bit me hard…I've been diverting a lot of time and hobby funding over to that. 
I do still have a couple of long-term woodworking projects on the bench that I hack and whack on periodically. Also have some vintage tool refurbs in various stages of progress. Will be back to working on that stuff again after Sep/Oct when the weather starts putting a damper on rocket flying.
Take care.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Dungeon Workshop: Update Summer 2016, ad nauseum*
> 
> So where have I been since June? Sick for over a month. Then dealing with Dad's Estate Sale, which was a lot of work. And then playing catchup on projects that should have been started months before. I'm still running full speed to get caught up before the cold weather arrives. Not sure if I will make it.
> 
> Earlier I had some projects in the works. As it turned out, they were all back-burnered or resolved without completion. I wasn't upset. The dungeon needed to be organized and made totally usable before winter came and I knew the only way to do this was to put aside everything else and dig in. These pictures are of where I am as of this date. If you haven't been following my blog since the beginning, you would do well to stop now, head back to the beginning, and see what the dungeon looked like back then. A lot has changed. I've found tools I had forgotten I had, acquired more tools, either through my father or on my own travels, and got rid of some that didn't cut it or weren't useful. I'm about 80% there now. Not bad when you consider where I started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run out of room for sheet goods!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also outside of the dungeon. A temp location for recently acquired reclaimed studs. I use these for general construction in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this rack has been filled with some studs, way in the back and on the bottom, but mostly with short stock white and red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some subtle differences, like the assembly table raised to just under the same height as the two table saws, and a heavy shelf placed underneath. I've started to lay down rubber mats to cushion my feet and make floor cleaning a little easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shallow cabinet was made and hung on the wall. Not sure if I will put the grinders back onto the bureau top or leave as a workspace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's in the cabinet? Kreg stuff on the left, chisels on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This room was totally full of junk. It's been cleaned out and filled back up with…junk. Funny how that works. Actually, there are a couple of new benches and a small table in the room that will eventually be utilized properly. As I work over the other end of the shop this becomes the new catch-all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've relocated the drill press (in later pictures) and stripped the back wall of everything that related to it. I'm not sure if the router table with stay, which would mean the bits above would, or whether I will remove both the yellow cabinet and router table to free up that space. It's very tight between these and the aluminum rail ends of the Hitachi table saw. The jigsaw is going elsewhere and the portable table beneath it will be folded up and put away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally! I got around to putting up a pegboard framing above the workbench and hung some of my tools. Needless to say, my work flow has improved tremendously with having tools readily at hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally as an after-thought, after I had placed the newly made bench in the foreground, I build a false wall that lays atop of the two benches and is attached at the top to the house's exterior beam. Wire racks came from Dad's house as did the plywood backing board. Small shelf on the right was a left over from one I made and put up a while ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The steel shelf on top of the wide bench shows how much the concrete floor slopes away from the wall. Right now it stores most of my powered hand tools. Relocation of the drill press and mounting of related stuff on the back wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plastic cabinets in this picture were reinforced with an external wood skeleton and stacked to better use space. The shelving up above is the parent project to the one in the other side of the large bench. The grinders and benchtop jointer will most likely not end up on the island bench. A good place for them while I expand out into the room on the far right of this bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a spot for the 10"x18" midi-lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last frontier. A bench will be made for the wall on the left. Not sure what else can go in this spot. The least driest spot in the dungeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking back. I dream of the day when the only things laying on the bench tops are the projects in the works and the tools immediately making them happen.
> 
> I plan on catching up with notifications I missed real soon. Thanks.


Hey Ed!

Wow. I can't believe it's been nearly a couple of weeks since you posted a comment I happened back here. My bad. Busy, as I will post about in today's blog. I fell bad, but things have to get done around here. Although we have been experiencing unusually warm weather, the nights are cool and this just presses upon me how I am running out of time to get the house ready for winter as I struggle to finish up in the dungeon.

If you are active on sites that show off your model rocketry efforts, direct message me here so I can keep tabs on your progress. Model rocketry was an interest of mine in the past. I'd like to see what's happening now.


----------



## retired_guru

*Mark of the Shepperd's Hook!*










Makers, fixers and tinkers know that no matter the skill or level of prudence, injuries are inevitable. This happened a couple of days ago-no idea what caused this-and only realized when I started dripping blood onto a project. Now that it has scabbed over, I can't help but noticed the shape of the injury. Me thinks someone is trying to tell me something.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Mark of the Shepperd's Hook!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makers, fixers and tinkers know that no matter the skill or level of prudence, injuries are inevitable. This happened a couple of days ago-no idea what caused this-and only realized when I started dripping blood onto a project. Now that it has scabbed over, I can't help but noticed the shape of the injury. Me thinks someone is trying to tell me something.


I keep super glue and band-aids in the shop. Because I am going to lose a little red stuff from time to time.

Yup-If you work you will acquire small injuries!

As we age what used to just scrape us now actually cuts.

Heal up!


----------



## htl

retired_guru said:


> *Mark of the Shepperd's Hook!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makers, fixers and tinkers know that no matter the skill or level of prudence, injuries are inevitable. This happened a couple of days ago-no idea what caused this-and only realized when I started dripping blood onto a project. Now that it has scabbed over, I can't help but noticed the shape of the injury. Me thinks someone is trying to tell me something.


As we age what used to just scrape us now actually cuts.

Ralbuck you got that right!!!


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction*

In my previous blog post I gave a tour of The Dungeon Workshop. Near the end was a picture of what I call the South Room (SR). From the picture you can see it has been a catch-all for what I don't know what to do with. I vowed this year the crap would go, the tools would get sorted and put away, and raw materials placed where I could draw from when needed. Accumulation of tools, equipment and supplies have only added to the mess I started with. I need the space. I needed to be able to find my stuff!










Earlier this week I cleaned out the SR, which of course meant I littered the rest of the shop. The following pictures define what I am working with, panning from right to left:














































Construction grade plywood isn't cheap in my neck of the woods. It's also crappy stuff, having many voids between layers and on the surface. It's also impossible for me to get a 4'x8' sheet down into the dungeon. I needed 64" to span the width of the wall. What I had plenty of were used 3/4" pine boards, reclaimed lumber.










This summer I helped out with my Dad's Estate sale. I built two tables out of pallets and reclaimed lumber for displaying goods indoors. I also made a top that would rest on two sawhorse to be used outdoors under cover. Back then I built these with bringing them back to the shop afterward in mind. This is the larger of the two, to be put up against the newly made wall. At this point, I have added two opposing sides braces running the widest area and adjustable feet I have kept from an old steel office desk I sold to the autocrusher.










I removed angle braces on what would become the front of the bench and added a shelf below. I thought it was an interesting coincidence that I could just fit in the required number of two-bys and have just enough space left over for a 1/2" board on edge at each end. The bench's dimension fit well against the wall space.










Here is the smaller bench, with the same leg bracing and bottom shelf construction of the larger bench. At this point I haven't screwed down the shelf boards. Once again, the two-bys fit snuggly within the dimensions provided by the earlier construction. I couldn't have planned this better. The Wood Goddess must have been guiding me in my 'ad hoc' construction. 










After the shelf is screwed down, I will be making a couple of drawers for it. More pictures later.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction*
> 
> In my previous blog post I gave a tour of The Dungeon Workshop. Near the end was a picture of what I call the South Room (SR). From the picture you can see it has been a catch-all for what I don't know what to do with. I vowed this year the crap would go, the tools would get sorted and put away, and raw materials placed where I could draw from when needed. Accumulation of tools, equipment and supplies have only added to the mess I started with. I need the space. I needed to be able to find my stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier this week I cleaned out the SR, which of course meant I littered the rest of the shop. The following pictures define what I am working with, panning from right to left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Construction grade plywood isn't cheap in my neck of the woods. It's also crappy stuff, having many voids between layers and on the surface. It's also impossible for me to get a 4'x8' sheet down into the dungeon. I needed 64" to span the width of the wall. What I had plenty of were used 3/4" pine boards, reclaimed lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This summer I helped out with my Dad's Estate sale. I built two tables out of pallets and reclaimed lumber for displaying goods indoors. I also made a top that would rest on two sawhorse to be used outdoors under cover. Back then I built these with bringing them back to the shop afterward in mind. This is the larger of the two, to be put up against the newly made wall. At this point, I have added two opposing sides braces running the widest area and adjustable feet I have kept from an old steel office desk I sold to the autocrusher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed angle braces on what would become the front of the bench and added a shelf below. I thought it was an interesting coincidence that I could just fit in the required number of two-bys and have just enough space left over for a 1/2" board on edge at each end. The bench's dimension fit well against the wall space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the smaller bench, with the same leg bracing and bottom shelf construction of the larger bench. At this point I haven't screwed down the shelf boards. Once again, the two-bys fit snuggly within the dimensions provided by the earlier construction. I couldn't have planned this better. The Wood Goddess must have been guiding me in my 'ad hoc' construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the shelf is screwed down, I will be making a couple of drawers for it. More pictures later.


Nicely done Paul. Your workshop is progressing.


----------



## NormG

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction*
> 
> In my previous blog post I gave a tour of The Dungeon Workshop. Near the end was a picture of what I call the South Room (SR). From the picture you can see it has been a catch-all for what I don't know what to do with. I vowed this year the crap would go, the tools would get sorted and put away, and raw materials placed where I could draw from when needed. Accumulation of tools, equipment and supplies have only added to the mess I started with. I need the space. I needed to be able to find my stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier this week I cleaned out the SR, which of course meant I littered the rest of the shop. The following pictures define what I am working with, panning from right to left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Construction grade plywood isn't cheap in my neck of the woods. It's also crappy stuff, having many voids between layers and on the surface. It's also impossible for me to get a 4'x8' sheet down into the dungeon. I needed 64" to span the width of the wall. What I had plenty of were used 3/4" pine boards, reclaimed lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This summer I helped out with my Dad's Estate sale. I built two tables out of pallets and reclaimed lumber for displaying goods indoors. I also made a top that would rest on two sawhorse to be used outdoors under cover. Back then I built these with bringing them back to the shop afterward in mind. This is the larger of the two, to be put up against the newly made wall. At this point, I have added two opposing sides braces running the widest area and adjustable feet I have kept from an old steel office desk I sold to the autocrusher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed angle braces on what would become the front of the bench and added a shelf below. I thought it was an interesting coincidence that I could just fit in the required number of two-bys and have just enough space left over for a 1/2" board on edge at each end. The bench's dimension fit well against the wall space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the smaller bench, with the same leg bracing and bottom shelf construction of the larger bench. At this point I haven't screwed down the shelf boards. Once again, the two-bys fit snuggly within the dimensions provided by the earlier construction. I couldn't have planned this better. The Wood Goddess must have been guiding me in my 'ad hoc' construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the shelf is screwed down, I will be making a couple of drawers for it. More pictures later.


Wonderful job, lots of useful room


----------



## retired_guru

*Resurrecting a Coffin Smoother - Part I*

My Dad acquired a beat-up coffin smoother a long time ago. Either he abused it or got it from someone who had. At some point he decided it wasn't worth much, stuck it in a cubbyhole in his basement, and there is sat for several decades. I came along this past summer and figured I would try to make it useful again. I posted the following picture here before. This gives you a 'Beginning' picture of the project I'm taking on.










I needed to seal up the blown out fractures in the cheeks. I used Original Formula Titebond (I) and compressed the fractures between calls as tight as I could get the clamp to go.










It occurred to me that by not placing wax paper between the calls and body, the glue might bond itself to the calls as well. About 6 hours later I removed the clamp and calls. Not bad.



















The left side call did stick a little, but no real damage to worry about. And the glue appears to be holding. Tomorrow I will sand the sides and top, see whether to reinforce the fractures with epoxy (to fill in and allow smoothing over) or leave as is.

After I get the outside of the body cleaned up I will work on the iron and cap iron. I need to see how the wedge fits, whether it will hold tight within what is left of the shoulders. If not, I have some ideas on how to either repair or replace them.


----------



## retired_guru

*Resurrecting a Coffin Smoother - Part II*

The glued fractures appear to be holding up well. Since the fractures weren't smooth and the sole wasn't flat-with major gouges between the mouth and toe-I decided to take some course grit to the outside and flatten the sole.



















The sole is flat and the gouges are gone.










Progressing through the grits should make this look, feel and work better once finished.

The wedge is shot. A replacement will have to be made.










The trouble area is really between the wedge and the cheek shoulders. The shoulders are chewed up all around.










The thin white line between the wedge and the iron assembly is light shining through.










A couple ideas had hit me on how to fix this. I could chop out the damaged area and put in new wood that can be shaped into a complete, accurate shoulder. I could also carve back the damaged areas, straighten and even out the shoulder at the mouth, then add a cross pin near the top of the cheeks to keep the wedge tight against the iron assembly. I'll decide when I get to that point.

The iron is in need of a new bevel and edge. It's not square and unevenly shaped.


















The chip breaker appears to only need a good cleaning and a little flattening at the leading edge.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction - Part II*

The South Room will never make it in an issue of Better Homes and Gardens. For what I need, it's coming along better than expected. I'm not done with the space.










The East (left side) and South walls are damp, even wet, all year round, so I doubt I will ever stud up a wall. I also doubt the gold colored steel cabinet will stay there. For now it keeps me from bumping my ribs or head against the capped off gas line service coming out of the wall. You can see the capped end to the left of The Washboard sitting atop of the cabinet.










The sister gold cabinet sits between the sewer pipe and bench. A good place for it. The Kobalt steel tool chest's handle broke off, so I stripped it of it latching hardware. Now it's a benchtop tool chest.










The shelf is as thick as you see it in this photo. Three of the five braces are on studs, so I'm comfortable with the weight of parts cabinets upon it. This bench will eventually be for electronics and scale modeling projects.










Last week I made two shelves for the bench, replaced the nailed boards top with thick, vinyl veneered particle board. Above I used two of the three Rubbermaid shelf trays I acquired from my parents, spaced out to accommodate a small shelf unit to hold empty sanitary wipe containers.

I've relocating materials to this space when it makes sense to do so. I'll get the mess tamed soon enough.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction - Part II*
> 
> The South Room will never make it in an issue of Better Homes and Gardens. For what I need, it's coming along better than expected. I'm not done with the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The East (left side) and South walls are damp, even wet, all year round, so I doubt I will ever stud up a wall. I also doubt the gold colored steel cabinet will stay there. For now it keeps me from bumping my ribs or head against the capped off gas line service coming out of the wall. You can see the capped end to the left of The Washboard sitting atop of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sister gold cabinet sits between the sewer pipe and bench. A good place for it. The Kobalt steel tool chest's handle broke off, so I stripped it of it latching hardware. Now it's a benchtop tool chest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shelf is as thick as you see it in this photo. Three of the five braces are on studs, so I'm comfortable with the weight of parts cabinets upon it. This bench will eventually be for electronics and scale modeling projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last week I made two shelves for the bench, replaced the nailed boards top with thick, vinyl veneered particle board. Above I used two of the three Rubbermaid shelf trays I acquired from my parents, spaced out to accommodate a small shelf unit to hold empty sanitary wipe containers.
> 
> I've relocating materials to this space when it makes sense to do so. I'll get the mess tamed soon enough.


You are making great progress Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction - Part II*
> 
> The South Room will never make it in an issue of Better Homes and Gardens. For what I need, it's coming along better than expected. I'm not done with the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The East (left side) and South walls are damp, even wet, all year round, so I doubt I will ever stud up a wall. I also doubt the gold colored steel cabinet will stay there. For now it keeps me from bumping my ribs or head against the capped off gas line service coming out of the wall. You can see the capped end to the left of The Washboard sitting atop of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sister gold cabinet sits between the sewer pipe and bench. A good place for it. The Kobalt steel tool chest's handle broke off, so I stripped it of it latching hardware. Now it's a benchtop tool chest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shelf is as thick as you see it in this photo. Three of the five braces are on studs, so I'm comfortable with the weight of parts cabinets upon it. This bench will eventually be for electronics and scale modeling projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last week I made two shelves for the bench, replaced the nailed boards top with thick, vinyl veneered particle board. Above I used two of the three Rubbermaid shelf trays I acquired from my parents, spaced out to accommodate a small shelf unit to hold empty sanitary wipe containers.
> 
> I've relocating materials to this space when it makes sense to do so. I'll get the mess tamed soon enough.


Thanks for saying so, Lee. Today, for the first time, I saw I was winning the war. Another week and I should be able to start building projects instead of working over the shop.


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction - Part II*
> 
> The South Room will never make it in an issue of Better Homes and Gardens. For what I need, it's coming along better than expected. I'm not done with the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The East (left side) and South walls are damp, even wet, all year round, so I doubt I will ever stud up a wall. I also doubt the gold colored steel cabinet will stay there. For now it keeps me from bumping my ribs or head against the capped off gas line service coming out of the wall. You can see the capped end to the left of The Washboard sitting atop of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sister gold cabinet sits between the sewer pipe and bench. A good place for it. The Kobalt steel tool chest's handle broke off, so I stripped it of it latching hardware. Now it's a benchtop tool chest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shelf is as thick as you see it in this photo. Three of the five braces are on studs, so I'm comfortable with the weight of parts cabinets upon it. This bench will eventually be for electronics and scale modeling projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last week I made two shelves for the bench, replaced the nailed boards top with thick, vinyl veneered particle board. Above I used two of the three Rubbermaid shelf trays I acquired from my parents, spaced out to accommodate a small shelf unit to hold empty sanitary wipe containers.
> 
> I've relocating materials to this space when it makes sense to do so. I'll get the mess tamed soon enough.


Hi Paul,
been a while since I posted but looks to me as if you have made great strides.
Bet you can't wait to make some dust.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - South Room Construction - Part II*
> 
> The South Room will never make it in an issue of Better Homes and Gardens. For what I need, it's coming along better than expected. I'm not done with the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The East (left side) and South walls are damp, even wet, all year round, so I doubt I will ever stud up a wall. I also doubt the gold colored steel cabinet will stay there. For now it keeps me from bumping my ribs or head against the capped off gas line service coming out of the wall. You can see the capped end to the left of The Washboard sitting atop of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sister gold cabinet sits between the sewer pipe and bench. A good place for it. The Kobalt steel tool chest's handle broke off, so I stripped it of it latching hardware. Now it's a benchtop tool chest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shelf is as thick as you see it in this photo. Three of the five braces are on studs, so I'm comfortable with the weight of parts cabinets upon it. This bench will eventually be for electronics and scale modeling projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last week I made two shelves for the bench, replaced the nailed boards top with thick, vinyl veneered particle board. Above I used two of the three Rubbermaid shelf trays I acquired from my parents, spaced out to accommodate a small shelf unit to hold empty sanitary wipe containers.
> 
> I've relocating materials to this space when it makes sense to do so. I'll get the mess tamed soon enough.


Hey JinkJock! Good hear from you! And thanks.

Late this past Spring I realized I would continue to struggle with builds until the workshop was in order. It's been a long, boring and sometimes frustrating several months getting to this point. I have a bit more construction to do before I can call it 'done', however, I already feel the difference and with a few small projects witnessed the ease in working compared to earlier this year. Chomping at the bit to make things? You bet! I think the time is soon.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon Workshop - Clamp Rack*

"Winning the war one battle at a time."

I've pretty much put on hold any woodworking projects until the dungeon workshop is organized to the point where everything is put away and I have at least a gambler's chance of finding things when I need them. With Christmas two and a half months away, it's imperative that I get to that point as soon as possible.










I've found over the summer that studding up 'false walls' over field stone was a good way to reclaim this useless space. The stone wall in this picture was always dry, so it made sense to upcycle the last of the table tops I made for my father's Estate sale this summer; stand it on end and place it between studs running vertically from ceiling joist to floor. The construction has unexpectedly provided needed support for a loose joist, too.

We're getting there.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - Clamp Rack*
> 
> "Winning the war one battle at a time."
> 
> I've pretty much put on hold any woodworking projects until the dungeon workshop is organized to the point where everything is put away and I have at least a gambler's chance of finding things when I need them. With Christmas two and a half months away, it's imperative that I get to that point as soon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've found over the summer that studding up 'false walls' over field stone was a good way to reclaim this useless space. The stone wall in this picture was always dry, so it made sense to upcycle the last of the table tops I made for my father's Estate sale this summer; stand it on end and place it between studs running vertically from ceiling joist to floor. The construction has unexpectedly provided needed support for a loose joist, too.
> 
> We're getting there.


Nicely done Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - Clamp Rack*
> 
> "Winning the war one battle at a time."
> 
> I've pretty much put on hold any woodworking projects until the dungeon workshop is organized to the point where everything is put away and I have at least a gambler's chance of finding things when I need them. With Christmas two and a half months away, it's imperative that I get to that point as soon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've found over the summer that studding up 'false walls' over field stone was a good way to reclaim this useless space. The stone wall in this picture was always dry, so it made sense to upcycle the last of the table tops I made for my father's Estate sale this summer; stand it on end and place it between studs running vertically from ceiling joist to floor. The construction has unexpectedly provided needed support for a loose joist, too.
> 
> We're getting there.


Thanks, Lee. I posted this picture over on my Facebook profile. A couple of friends thought I had built a grandfather clock until they clicked on it to enlarge. I wish!


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon Workshop - Reclaimed West Stone Wall Section*

I needed more wall space to get hand and power tools organized and out in the open, so I decided to work over the small patch of stone wall between the benches on the West side of the shop.

Here is what the area looked like before conversion:









The finished conversion:


















The most important criteria was that nothing hanging or sitting on the shelves would be struck by hands, shoulders or hips while walking past the wall. I frequently rely upon the AC-powered B&D electric drill, especially at the main assembly and Windsor benches, so I wanted a simple mount to park it while it was still plugged in, and with whatever bit was in the chuck. Getting the folding 8" draw knife mounted where it can't fall or accidentally cut me was an unexpected plus!

Tomorrow I start on the new base for the router table, which will incorporate a automotive emergency scissor jack for the adjustable lift. I've already tested the jack out and it works very well.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - Reclaimed West Stone Wall Section*
> 
> I needed more wall space to get hand and power tools organized and out in the open, so I decided to work over the small patch of stone wall between the benches on the West side of the shop.
> 
> Here is what the area looked like before conversion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most important criteria was that nothing hanging or sitting on the shelves would be struck by hands, shoulders or hips while walking past the wall. I frequently rely upon the AC-powered B&D electric drill, especially at the main assembly and Windsor benches, so I wanted a simple mount to park it while it was still plugged in, and with whatever bit was in the chuck. Getting the folding 8" draw knife mounted where it can't fall or accidentally cut me was an unexpected plus!
> 
> Tomorrow I start on the new base for the router table, which will incorporate a automotive emergency scissor jack for the adjustable lift. I've already tested the jack out and it works very well.


Your shop is getting full Paul, time to put these tools to work!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - Reclaimed West Stone Wall Section*
> 
> I needed more wall space to get hand and power tools organized and out in the open, so I decided to work over the small patch of stone wall between the benches on the West side of the shop.
> 
> Here is what the area looked like before conversion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished conversion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most important criteria was that nothing hanging or sitting on the shelves would be struck by hands, shoulders or hips while walking past the wall. I frequently rely upon the AC-powered B&D electric drill, especially at the main assembly and Windsor benches, so I wanted a simple mount to park it while it was still plugged in, and with whatever bit was in the chuck. Getting the folding 8" draw knife mounted where it can't fall or accidentally cut me was an unexpected plus!
> 
> Tomorrow I start on the new base for the router table, which will incorporate a automotive emergency scissor jack for the adjustable lift. I've already tested the jack out and it works very well.


Hahaha! Right you are, Lee. Not much left in piles to be sorted and put away. I have to make a shooting board and rework the router table, neither biggies. Unfortunately, I'm stuck with house repairs until tomorrow. Always something.


----------



## retired_guru

*Hand Plane Till*










Earlier today I made a down-and-dirty hand plane till. Yesterday I hung the Stanley No. 5 and 6 on individual racks-lift up and pull out. Now it looks like I didn't have many. I guess not, but they sure took up a lot of bench top space before. Do I buy more planes and added on for them, or do I use the free space on the left for something else? Nah. You can never have too many hand planes.


----------



## revrok

retired_guru said:


> *Hand Plane Till*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier today I made a down-and-dirty hand plane till. Yesterday I hung the Stanley No. 5 and 6 on individual racks-lift up and pull out. Now it looks like I didn't have many. I guess not, but they sure took up a lot of bench top space before. Do I buy more planes and added on for them, or do I use the free space on the left for something else? Nah. You can never have too many hand planes.


SO very true… looking good


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Hand Plane Till*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier today I made a down-and-dirty hand plane till. Yesterday I hung the Stanley No. 5 and 6 on individual racks-lift up and pull out. Now it looks like I didn't have many. I guess not, but they sure took up a lot of bench top space before. Do I buy more planes and added on for them, or do I use the free space on the left for something else? Nah. You can never have too many hand planes.


Man Paul, you are getting this organizing think down. Nicely done.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Dungeon Workshop - Scroll Saw Table*

The last shop bench or table to be made is now complete. I had set aside to the left of the refurbished Blue Hawk router table enough space for a narrow table. Construction started this past Saturday.

I wanted it to be simple in design, using reclaimed lumber I had laying around on the premises. I also wanted it to be a generic design, just in case this old scroll saw of mine turns out to be a bad investment. This meant allowing ample leg room under the table from the ends as well as from the sides.










The top is screwed and glued to the frame All other connections are made with glue and hardwood dowels.



















The cross braces between the horizontal legs and vertical struts were added at the end to keep the unit from swaying under weight. I used box store furniture feet adjusters as levelers.



















Tomorrow I will disassemble the scroll saw, clean and lube before trying it out for the first time.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - Scroll Saw Table*
> 
> The last shop bench or table to be made is now complete. I had set aside to the left of the refurbished Blue Hawk router table enough space for a narrow table. Construction started this past Saturday.
> 
> I wanted it to be simple in design, using reclaimed lumber I had laying around on the premises. I also wanted it to be a generic design, just in case this old scroll saw of mine turns out to be a bad investment. This meant allowing ample leg room under the table from the ends as well as from the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is screwed and glued to the frame All other connections are made with glue and hardwood dowels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cross braces between the horizontal legs and vertical struts were added at the end to keep the unit from swaying under weight. I used box store furniture feet adjusters as levelers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will disassemble the scroll saw, clean and lube before trying it out for the first time.


Paul, your woodworking skills are certainly improving with every project you complete. Nicely done table!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Dungeon Workshop - Scroll Saw Table*
> 
> The last shop bench or table to be made is now complete. I had set aside to the left of the refurbished Blue Hawk router table enough space for a narrow table. Construction started this past Saturday.
> 
> I wanted it to be simple in design, using reclaimed lumber I had laying around on the premises. I also wanted it to be a generic design, just in case this old scroll saw of mine turns out to be a bad investment. This meant allowing ample leg room under the table from the ends as well as from the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is screwed and glued to the frame All other connections are made with glue and hardwood dowels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cross braces between the horizontal legs and vertical struts were added at the end to keep the unit from swaying under weight. I used box store furniture feet adjusters as levelers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will disassemble the scroll saw, clean and lube before trying it out for the first time.


Thanks, Lee. Having a somewhat organized workplace has made the work so much easier. It's a joy to be concentrating on the building process instead of where the heck my tools are.


----------



## retired_guru

*Harbor Freight's DrillMaster 2 HP Fixed Base Router Fix*










Last year I picked up the DrillMaster #68341 Fixed Base Router at a Harbor Freight store. With the workshop in such disarray at the time, it got put away and forgotten. Months later I found it and checked it out. Like many have complained, the machining of the aluminum router body is dramatically undersized in comparison to the fixed base. When the clamp on the base is engaged, the router is pushed off center. Too much time had passed since I bought it, and on a $60.00 USD item I won't pay for their extended warranty, so I put it away, writing it off as a poor purchase.

This summer I found the router, but couldn't find all the accessories that came with it, especially the collets to work with bit shanks smaller than one-half inch. After some frustrating searching, I put it away for the second time. Today I had this notion that I would again look for the collets and see if I could resolve the centering problem with the fixed base.

The basic idea I had was to remove the sloppy fit by applying layers of painters blue tape to the inside of the base until the base would snuggly screw onto the router body with the clamp fully open and relaxed. Four layers of tape were needed to achieve this and the fit is good enough that there is no longer any play between the base and router with the clamp open. Cinched down, there is barely any compression of the base at the clamp.










The next step was to remove the three base plate screws and rotate the plate until I found the best choice that centered the chuck. Slightly elongating the holes on the plastic base plate allowed for fine tuning. Since I don't have any template guides for this router, I used the largest 1/4" shank bit I had to help in centering. The carbide cutting edges happen to just fit within the recess are for the template guide. Moving the plate around until I the chuck was centered, then cinching down the screws, completed the fix.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight's DrillMaster 2 HP Fixed Base Router Fix*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up the DrillMaster #68341 Fixed Base Router at a Harbor Freight store. With the workshop in such disarray at the time, it got put away and forgotten. Months later I found it and checked it out. Like many have complained, the machining of the aluminum router body is dramatically undersized in comparison to the fixed base. When the clamp on the base is engaged, the router is pushed off center. Too much time had passed since I bought it, and on a $60.00 USD item I won't pay for their extended warranty, so I put it away, writing it off as a poor purchase.
> 
> This summer I found the router, but couldn't find all the accessories that came with it, especially the collets to work with bit shanks smaller than one-half inch. After some frustrating searching, I put it away for the second time. Today I had this notion that I would again look for the collets and see if I could resolve the centering problem with the fixed base.
> 
> The basic idea I had was to remove the sloppy fit by applying layers of painters blue tape to the inside of the base until the base would snuggly screw onto the router body with the clamp fully open and relaxed. Four layers of tape were needed to achieve this and the fit is good enough that there is no longer any play between the base and router with the clamp open. Cinched down, there is barely any compression of the base at the clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to remove the three base plate screws and rotate the plate until I found the best choice that centered the chuck. Slightly elongating the holes on the plastic base plate allowed for fine tuning. Since I don't have any template guides for this router, I used the largest 1/4" shank bit I had to help in centering. The carbide cutting edges happen to just fit within the recess are for the template guide. Moving the plate around until I the chuck was centered, then cinching down the screws, completed the fix.


Good thinking; great repair/modification!

Sometimes easy repairs work very well. Nice repair and now it will probably be a good friend to you.

Somehow I seem to modify a lot of the tools that I buy. Even the expensive ones seem to need a tuning.

My Jet 6 by 48" belt sander that I have had about 6 years finally had a new (never had one ) bottom boot made by me from scrap plastic that was a dumpster find. The heat gun shrank it for a better fit to the base. Now the Dust system that it hooks too does much better.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Harbor Freight's DrillMaster 2 HP Fixed Base Router Fix*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last year I picked up the DrillMaster #68341 Fixed Base Router at a Harbor Freight store. With the workshop in such disarray at the time, it got put away and forgotten. Months later I found it and checked it out. Like many have complained, the machining of the aluminum router body is dramatically undersized in comparison to the fixed base. When the clamp on the base is engaged, the router is pushed off center. Too much time had passed since I bought it, and on a $60.00 USD item I won't pay for their extended warranty, so I put it away, writing it off as a poor purchase.
> 
> This summer I found the router, but couldn't find all the accessories that came with it, especially the collets to work with bit shanks smaller than one-half inch. After some frustrating searching, I put it away for the second time. Today I had this notion that I would again look for the collets and see if I could resolve the centering problem with the fixed base.
> 
> The basic idea I had was to remove the sloppy fit by applying layers of painters blue tape to the inside of the base until the base would snuggly screw onto the router body with the clamp fully open and relaxed. Four layers of tape were needed to achieve this and the fit is good enough that there is no longer any play between the base and router with the clamp open. Cinched down, there is barely any compression of the base at the clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to remove the three base plate screws and rotate the plate until I found the best choice that centered the chuck. Slightly elongating the holes on the plastic base plate allowed for fine tuning. Since I don't have any template guides for this router, I used the largest 1/4" shank bit I had to help in centering. The carbide cutting edges happen to just fit within the recess are for the template guide. Moving the plate around until I the chuck was centered, then cinching down the screws, completed the fix.


Thanks, rjR. I know what you mean. I've had to 'fix' and modify to suit my needs much of what I own, regardless of brand name. I wish I could brag about 100% success.  I suppose, as a tinker, I wouldn't have it any other way. As long as I have time to actually make something with these 'fixed' tools.


----------



## retired_guru

*Joiners Mallet*










I've been wanting a larger mallet for chisel work, but until now didn't have a large enough piece of hardwood. The head is oak, part of a pallet runner I acquired in the summer. The handle was make from a section of an old, discarded TruValue snow shovel handle; probably ash. I mounted the handle in my lathe and reduced the section that will fit into the 1" hole made in the head. The faces have a 2 degree rake toward the handle. Some subtle work was done on the rest of the handle for a more comfortable grip. Epoxy was used to glue the tight-fitting handle to the head. One coat of Danish oil for the finish.










Update: A day later, I got a chance to find out if the mallet was going to be an asset in the shop. I clamped down a thin scrap of poplar and chopped a square through-mortise the width of a Harbor Freight chisel that was sharp enough to cut you, but not able to shave the hairs off your arm. The mallet worked better than I had hoped for.










I was surprised at what little effort I had to put into each swing. I wasn't sure the mallet had enough weight for chopping out mortises. Remember, not the sharpest chisel in the lot. 










"My kingdom for a tenon!"










"No pain, all gain." Works well enough for what I can do. Passed! (My first truly useful mallet!)


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Joiners Mallet*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting a larger mallet for chisel work, but until now didn't have a large enough piece of hardwood. The head is oak, part of a pallet runner I acquired in the summer. The handle was make from a section of an old, discarded TruValue snow shovel handle; probably ash. I mounted the handle in my lathe and reduced the section that will fit into the 1" hole made in the head. The faces have a 2 degree rake toward the handle. Some subtle work was done on the rest of the handle for a more comfortable grip. Epoxy was used to glue the tight-fitting handle to the head. One coat of Danish oil for the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: A day later, I got a chance to find out if the mallet was going to be an asset in the shop. I clamped down a thin scrap of poplar and chopped a square through-mortise the width of a Harbor Freight chisel that was sharp enough to cut you, but not able to shave the hairs off your arm. The mallet worked better than I had hoped for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised at what little effort I had to put into each swing. I wasn't sure the mallet had enough weight for chopping out mortises. Remember, not the sharpest chisel in the lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "My kingdom for a tenon!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "No pain, all gain." Works well enough for what I can do. Passed! (My first truly useful mallet!)


Nice combination of scrap materials Paul. I like your re-purposed mallet.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Joiners Mallet*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting a larger mallet for chisel work, but until now didn't have a large enough piece of hardwood. The head is oak, part of a pallet runner I acquired in the summer. The handle was make from a section of an old, discarded TruValue snow shovel handle; probably ash. I mounted the handle in my lathe and reduced the section that will fit into the 1" hole made in the head. The faces have a 2 degree rake toward the handle. Some subtle work was done on the rest of the handle for a more comfortable grip. Epoxy was used to glue the tight-fitting handle to the head. One coat of Danish oil for the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: A day later, I got a chance to find out if the mallet was going to be an asset in the shop. I clamped down a thin scrap of poplar and chopped a square through-mortise the width of a Harbor Freight chisel that was sharp enough to cut you, but not able to shave the hairs off your arm. The mallet worked better than I had hoped for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised at what little effort I had to put into each swing. I wasn't sure the mallet had enough weight for chopping out mortises. Remember, not the sharpest chisel in the lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "My kingdom for a tenon!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "No pain, all gain." Works well enough for what I can do. Passed! (My first truly useful mallet!)


I relly like that you spared no expense in the build!

Most of my projects are made that way too. Fire wood and scraps are my lumber yard!

GREAT usable tool!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Joiners Mallet*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting a larger mallet for chisel work, but until now didn't have a large enough piece of hardwood. The head is oak, part of a pallet runner I acquired in the summer. The handle was make from a section of an old, discarded TruValue snow shovel handle; probably ash. I mounted the handle in my lathe and reduced the section that will fit into the 1" hole made in the head. The faces have a 2 degree rake toward the handle. Some subtle work was done on the rest of the handle for a more comfortable grip. Epoxy was used to glue the tight-fitting handle to the head. One coat of Danish oil for the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: A day later, I got a chance to find out if the mallet was going to be an asset in the shop. I clamped down a thin scrap of poplar and chopped a square through-mortise the width of a Harbor Freight chisel that was sharp enough to cut you, but not able to shave the hairs off your arm. The mallet worked better than I had hoped for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised at what little effort I had to put into each swing. I wasn't sure the mallet had enough weight for chopping out mortises. Remember, not the sharpest chisel in the lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "My kingdom for a tenon!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "No pain, all gain." Works well enough for what I can do. Passed! (My first truly useful mallet!)


Thanks, Lee. You know me: waste not, want not.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Joiners Mallet*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting a larger mallet for chisel work, but until now didn't have a large enough piece of hardwood. The head is oak, part of a pallet runner I acquired in the summer. The handle was make from a section of an old, discarded TruValue snow shovel handle; probably ash. I mounted the handle in my lathe and reduced the section that will fit into the 1" hole made in the head. The faces have a 2 degree rake toward the handle. Some subtle work was done on the rest of the handle for a more comfortable grip. Epoxy was used to glue the tight-fitting handle to the head. One coat of Danish oil for the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: A day later, I got a chance to find out if the mallet was going to be an asset in the shop. I clamped down a thin scrap of poplar and chopped a square through-mortise the width of a Harbor Freight chisel that was sharp enough to cut you, but not able to shave the hairs off your arm. The mallet worked better than I had hoped for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised at what little effort I had to put into each swing. I wasn't sure the mallet had enough weight for chopping out mortises. Remember, not the sharpest chisel in the lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "My kingdom for a tenon!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "No pain, all gain." Works well enough for what I can do. Passed! (My first truly useful mallet!)


Ha! Thanks, rjR. No castout is too good for my projects.


----------



## retired_guru

*Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*

Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.










Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.










The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.



















I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.










Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.


----------



## DonBroussard

retired_guru said:


> *Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*
> 
> Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.


Nice repair on a vintage project. Be sure to collect your brownie points!


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*
> 
> Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.


I do like to see some of the older things kept up and in working order! good SAVE.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*
> 
> Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.


Nice save Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*
> 
> Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.





> Nice repair on a vintage project. Be sure to collect your brownie points!
> 
> - Don Broussard


Heh. No brownie points here. I'm way in arrears on advances.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*
> 
> Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.





> I do like to see some of the older things kept up and in working order! good SAVE.
> 
> - ralbuck


When I can, I do, too. I'm not skilled in the art of restoration. Had this been a client's, I probably would have turned it down. Maybe that will change someday. For now…SAVE!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Repair Broken Handle on Antique Rolling Pin*
> 
> Some time this century the wife asked me to repair the broken handle on her grandmother's hand-me-down rolling pin. In an effort to get caught up on the 'Honey-Do' list (and win some brownie points), I made this one of today's projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rolling pin with the broken shaft on the left. The end button has been sawed off, to be attached to the new shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new shaft is at the bottom right. This was a standard 5/8" hardwood dowel that had to be turned down to approximately 1/2" on the inserted end and slightly smaller than the dowel's diameter to fit the inside of the handle. The step down is because I don't have twist or brad bits larger than 1/2". I couldn't have made this without my new Nova G3 chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a deep 1/2" hole into the end of the pin, added glue and inserted the thinner end of the new shaft into the pin. A shallow hole was drilled into the end button and a short 1/4" dowel was glued in. A 1/4" holed was drilled into the new shaft to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed pin. Handle rolls like the original.





> Nice save Paul.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee.


----------



## retired_guru

*Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*

The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:










There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:










The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:










The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:










The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:










The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:


















I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.

Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:


















I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


Scroll saws can be an addiction! I have used one for 60+ years.

Nice save, that is a decent saw.

Use paste-wax on the table fairly often. Prevents new rust and makes work turn easier. here is a website to a friend of mine that is a very good place to get blades, accessories and even help with any related questions. http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/index.htm

A few other tips, use a clear tape over the wood and draw your pattern on it. Also I use old candle stubs to wax the blade often in hard wood or thick cutting. Try it then see if it works for you. (It was listed as an advice thing on my first saw in the book in 1953!

Scrollsaw site that I am part of too. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/

Also get a light and a chair/stool-or what works for you to be comfortable cutting.

I also stack cut with a thinner piece of masonite/plastic etc. sandwiched in between two or more pieces-to make a template if I intend to make more than one of the item.

Hope this helps and enjoy the "new" toy!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


Thanks ralbuck! Bookmarked the links and will keep the tips.

The two coats of Original Formula Johnson's Paste Wax should hold until I get to using it. I used the same wax on the Hitachi when I removed all the rust and it's about time for a cleaning and new couple of coats. Good stuff.

I have a metal machine shop stool with an adjustable back. I need to make a seat pad for this old tush.  I believe I posted a previous blog entry showing the base I made and where it is located.


----------



## hnau

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


Nice restoration Paul. I hope that it will give you many years more of use.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.





> Nice restoration Paul. I hope that it will give you many years more of use.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. I hope so, too.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


Nice restore, Paul, I see you've been a busy lad. Looks like the dungeon is coming along very well!


----------



## FatherHooligan

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing an old Delta 40-530 Scroll Saw*
> 
> The other day I finally got around to refurbing an old Delta 40-530 single-speed scroll saw I bought a few years back. It has been sitting in my dungeon workshop all that time, gathering sawdust, dungeon dust, and more than a fair share of new rust over the old. Here's what it looked like before disassembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is surface rust over all of the table top and blade guide hardware. The blower hose has hardened to the point where it's no longer flexible enough to allow the upper arm to move freely. Here it is disassembled, as far as was necessary or possible without damaging components:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chassis is one crudely machined hunk of cast iron. First I vacuumed the sawdust out, then carefully cleaned with a cloth rag and generous applications of a spray on lube. Lots of sharp and jagged edges to cut oneself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control arms were cleaned. This entailed removing the pivot bolts from the brass bushing, cleaning both, doing the same to the cantilever spacers the tensioning rod goes through. The control arm assembly was installed, adding a little white lithium grease to the bushings, pivot bold sleeves, and cantilever spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor was cleaned, added to the chassis, then mated with the control arm linkage. The linkage has two sealed roller bearings that still moved well. I smeared a little lithium grease over the bearing covers. White lithium grease tends to liquefy under load. There is an excellent chance a little will seep into the bearing race upon use. I had to add two small washers to the top bearing to keep the linkage in line with the connection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit assembled less blower hose and table top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy 20 ft. of replacement hose to get this small section made. A little over $3.00: I'll find some use for it in the future.
> 
> Cleaning the rust off the cast iron top was a lot easier than anticipated. I wish to thank the 60 grit sanding disk I used, and its partner, the angle grinder. The nautilus shell pattern is original. The sheen is all mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both flat and spiral blades for this, in various teeth counts. If I can get my projects up to day in time, I might get to make some simple scroll saw Christmas gifts for the family.


Could you add a something to the motor to vary the speed? I have a potentiometer that govern's the rate of the motor on mine, would it be possible to retro-fit such a thing to this saw?


----------



## retired_guru

*Moving the Furniture...Again, or: Down to One Table Saw and Making it Count*

Had an interesting day in the dungeon workshop. You may recall that I have two table saws. I went into the shop this morning with the intention of making a cross-cut sled for the Skilsaw contractor saw, only to find that the miter slots weren't parallel to each other. Saw is now only good for carpentry, like ripping boards outdoor. Argh. So I pulled the saw off the shop made base. Parked it on top of the freezer. Disassembled the base for the Torx head deck screws, caster wheels and four adjusters.

Now that I am down to the Hitachi, I have to resolve the blade not being parallel to the slots problem. So I moved all the lumber on the bottom shelf of the main work table to everywhere else, making multiple messes throughout the shop. Once empty, I shimmied the heavy table a few feet from the backside of the Hitachi table saw to get at the panel. After removing the panel, I vacuumed out the stockpiled dust inside.










To adjust the trunnions once and for all, I decided to build a make-shift tool to accurately measure the distance from the blade to the slots at any point on the top. Once made, I spent about 20 minutes looking for the socketed hex key that fits the trunnion bolts. Found in a tool box in plain view that I have forgotten about. Argh. Three of the bolts were loosened, a tap here and a tap there, and I got the blade within a quarter of a millimeter from dead on. Cool.










Someone has to clean up the mess I made. Yeah, I know.


----------



## hnau

retired_guru said:


> *Moving the Furniture...Again, or: Down to One Table Saw and Making it Count*
> 
> Had an interesting day in the dungeon workshop. You may recall that I have two table saws. I went into the shop this morning with the intention of making a cross-cut sled for the Skilsaw contractor saw, only to find that the miter slots weren't parallel to each other. Saw is now only good for carpentry, like ripping boards outdoor. Argh. So I pulled the saw off the shop made base. Parked it on top of the freezer. Disassembled the base for the Torx head deck screws, caster wheels and four adjusters.
> 
> Now that I am down to the Hitachi, I have to resolve the blade not being parallel to the slots problem. So I moved all the lumber on the bottom shelf of the main work table to everywhere else, making multiple messes throughout the shop. Once empty, I shimmied the heavy table a few feet from the backside of the Hitachi table saw to get at the panel. After removing the panel, I vacuumed out the stockpiled dust inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To adjust the trunnions once and for all, I decided to build a make-shift tool to accurately measure the distance from the blade to the slots at any point on the top. Once made, I spent about 20 minutes looking for the socketed hex key that fits the trunnion bolts. Found in a tool box in plain view that I have forgotten about. Argh. Three of the bolts were loosened, a tap here and a tap there, and I got the blade within a quarter of a millimeter from dead on. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone has to clean up the mess I made. Yeah, I know.


----------



## bhuvi

retired_guru said:


> *Moving the Furniture...Again, or: Down to One Table Saw and Making it Count*
> 
> Had an interesting day in the dungeon workshop. You may recall that I have two table saws. I went into the shop this morning with the intention of making a cross-cut sled for the Skilsaw contractor saw, only to find that the miter slots weren't parallel to each other. Saw is now only good for carpentry, like ripping boards outdoor. Argh. So I pulled the saw off the shop made base. Parked it on top of the freezer. Disassembled the base for the Torx head deck screws, caster wheels and four adjusters.
> 
> Now that I am down to the Hitachi, I have to resolve the blade not being parallel to the slots problem. So I moved all the lumber on the bottom shelf of the main work table to everywhere else, making multiple messes throughout the shop. Once empty, I shimmied the heavy table a few feet from the backside of the Hitachi table saw to get at the panel. After removing the panel, I vacuumed out the stockpiled dust inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To adjust the trunnions once and for all, I decided to build a make-shift tool to accurately measure the distance from the blade to the slots at any point on the top. Once made, I spent about 20 minutes looking for the socketed hex key that fits the trunnion bolts. Found in a tool box in plain view that I have forgotten about. Argh. Three of the bolts were loosened, a tap here and a tap there, and I got the blade within a quarter of a millimeter from dead on. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone has to clean up the mess I made. Yeah, I know.


----------



## retired_guru

*Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*

Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"

Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"

I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.

Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.










Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.










No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.

Other things accomplished…

I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.










I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.


----------



## bhuvi

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.


Thanks for reminding me about wearing a mask. I have had the same experience as you after spending a day in the shop without one.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.


I can NOT STAND to wear a mask. BUT, I do have an elaborate==(EXPENSIVE) dust system, that almost works.

A Jet roof mount fan/filter + a BIG (Takes up way to much room) Laguana 220 volt unit, + a few scattered designated shop vacs as well. Sometime 4 dust collector units are running at the same time. Mostly works, NOISY then. I do wear the ear muffs almost steady in the shop.

It does fairly well; I do not think it is possible to collect all the dust in a working wood shop.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.





> Thanks for reminding me about wearing a mask. I have had the same experience as you after spending a day in the shop without one.
> 
> - luv2learn


I've made some improvements with dust collection (a new Rigid shop vac for the table saw and a separate one for other power tools) but even if I hand cut or sand I create saw dust and that seems to be enough to cause problems for me. Plus the mold and mildew in the wood, floor and all around. My allergies are severe enough I shouldn't work down there without one.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.





> I can NOT STAND to wear a mask. BUT, I do have an elaborate==(EXPENSIVE) dust system, that almost works.
> 
> A Jet roof mount fan/filter + a BIG (Takes up way to much room) Laguana 220 volt unit, + a few scattered designated shop vacs as well. Sometime 4 dust collector units are running at the same time. Mostly works, NOISY then. I do wear the ear muffs almost steady in the shop.
> 
> It does fairly well; I do not think it is possible to collect all the dust in a working wood shop.
> 
> - ralbuck


I don't believe it is possible, either. And to retain what heat I can without adding it, I have the dungeon sealed off from outside airflow coming in, so the windows 270 cfm fan can't be used right now. My allergies add insult to injury. Even if I put in a true dust collector the cement floor is crumbling as I walk over it. Every time someone walks on the first floor it sends dust from above. Asbestos..you get the picture. I have on the bucket list to built a wood box enclosure for a room size HEPA air filtering air unit I have. This won't help while I'm making sawdust, though. So…mask it is!


----------



## jinkyjock

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.


Paul,
your post strikes a chord and like most woodworkers at some point we all make compromises re. wearing a dust-mask.
However in your reply you mention the word "Asbestos", this is a whole different ball-game.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.





> Paul,
> your post strikes a chord and like most woodworkers at some point we all make compromises re. wearing a dust-mask.
> However in your reply you mention the word "Asbestos", this is a whole different ball-game.
> 
> - jinkyjock


Agreed. The overhead water pipes in the dungeon, that carry hot water to the radiators throughout the house, are covered in an asbestos wrap. Many areas are in need of attention. Because of the low ceiling, I occasionally hit the wrapped pipes with what I am working on. Obviously, the proper action is to cover the wrap. The wife and I are hoping to move to a new location in the near future, so I doubt I will take care of the problem before then. Even if I did, allergies to sawdust, concrete dust, mold and mildew would sooner kill me. We do what we need to do to pursue our dreams, the best that we can.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Breathing is Optional on a Good Day in the Dungeon*
> 
> Note to self: "Wear the mask! Wear the mask! Wear the mask!"
> 
> Yes, a blatant rip-off of the scene in the movie Armageddon, when the amateur stargazer screams at his wife Betty to "Get the book! Get the book! Get the book!"
> 
> I spent quite a few hours in the dungeon workshop yesterday without a mask on. I went to bed with a dry, rasped throat and woke up with the same, plus sinus congestion and a mild headache from the pressure. Popping some meds and wearing a mask today.
> 
> Outside of the aforementioned laziness and stupidity, yesterday was a great day in the dungeon. Having finally got the trunnions to work with me on the table saw, I now have blade, miter slots and fence working together nicely. Some practice cuts were so smooth and precise I might have giggled with glee a time or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that, I decided to put some distance between the saw and main work bench. It was the best organizational decision I've made to date. Not only can I work all four sides of the bench, something I couldn't do and complained about before, I can not slip a cart on wheels into the space, sporting my thickness planer with it's entrance and exit leaves just clearing the tops of the saw and bench. I'll be able to plane longer boards than ever before with ample support. Long rips will be easier, too, as one or both of my roller stands makes the outfeed act like it was self-propelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No less important is the feeling of spaciousness in the central work space. Lesser *can* be bigger.
> 
> Other things accomplished…
> 
> I turned a replacement handle for the Hitachi. Several months ago the poorly designed rubber handle tore from the mounting bolt on the blade height adjustment wheel. The angle adjustment isn't used nearly as often, so I swapped handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found another good use for an empty IKEA bag: scroll saw cover. After all the work I put into refurbing it, no way was I going to let it get dungeonized any time soon.


Guilty!! I hate wearing a mask it fogs up my glasses. But sawdust clogs the lungs SO!!


----------



## retired_guru

*Thickness Planer Cart Build*

In at least one of my previous posts you will find the DeWALT 734 thickness planer sitting atop a smaller bench in the background. This was a major step up (no pun intended!) from the floor dolly it was sitting on. But it had two drawbacks that I couldn't accent any longer. The first is I had to turn it at angle in relation to the bench top every time I wanted to use it, so the outfeed wouldn't hit the band saw. The bench's proximity to other benches and equipment limited the length of boards I could feed through it. The second problem was that it was taking up valuable Real Estate for what little time is spent running it. Yesterday I started a shop build that would resolve this problem.

Before starting on this build, I first disassembled the old dolly, reclaiming the Torx-head deck screws, a handle and two of the four casters. Two more casters were purchased at the big box store. Otherwise, this build was all materials owned, recycled or repurposed.

The cart had to fit between the table saw and main work bench and the old Formica laminated top I got from Dad was the perfect size. I turned it upside down on the main bench and buidl the cart from the top down.

Here is the first major assembly point:










I wanted ballast at the bottom to stabilize the 80 lb. planer, so I added two braces to the bottom frame and topped it with 1/2-in. plywood. A handle was placed at each end. A cross brace was added to each end for an additional shelf:










Before going any further, I checked to see if the cart would maneuver around the table saw and benches and fit in the space designated for it:










I found three 3/4-in. pine boards to make the top shelf from. My Sears Craftsman automotive sockets and box wrench set chest is heavy enough to act as ballast. I finally have a place to put it. It was always in the way:










I used the thickness planer to get three boards to the same thickness: about 5/8-in.:










I then jointed the boards on the table saw to ready for glue-up:










Using the heavy tool chest as passive ballast in the glue-up:










Dried glue was scraped off the seams of the top shelf and the ends were squared with a hand saw. I mounted it and we were done:










Being mobile, I can roll this to wherever I want, which when not in use wherever else I am not. Most of my shop construction has revolved around permanence. This is the first roving cart. It may not be the last.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Thickness Planer Cart Build*
> 
> In at least one of my previous posts you will find the DeWALT 734 thickness planer sitting atop a smaller bench in the background. This was a major step up (no pun intended!) from the floor dolly it was sitting on. But it had two drawbacks that I couldn't accent any longer. The first is I had to turn it at angle in relation to the bench top every time I wanted to use it, so the outfeed wouldn't hit the band saw. The bench's proximity to other benches and equipment limited the length of boards I could feed through it. The second problem was that it was taking up valuable Real Estate for what little time is spent running it. Yesterday I started a shop build that would resolve this problem.
> 
> Before starting on this build, I first disassembled the old dolly, reclaiming the Torx-head deck screws, a handle and two of the four casters. Two more casters were purchased at the big box store. Otherwise, this build was all materials owned, recycled or repurposed.
> 
> The cart had to fit between the table saw and main work bench and the old Formica laminated top I got from Dad was the perfect size. I turned it upside down on the main bench and buidl the cart from the top down.
> 
> Here is the first major assembly point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted ballast at the bottom to stabilize the 80 lb. planer, so I added two braces to the bottom frame and topped it with 1/2-in. plywood. A handle was placed at each end. A cross brace was added to each end for an additional shelf:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before going any further, I checked to see if the cart would maneuver around the table saw and benches and fit in the space designated for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found three 3/4-in. pine boards to make the top shelf from. My Sears Craftsman automotive sockets and box wrench set chest is heavy enough to act as ballast. I finally have a place to put it. It was always in the way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the thickness planer to get three boards to the same thickness: about 5/8-in.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then jointed the boards on the table saw to ready for glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the heavy tool chest as passive ballast in the glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dried glue was scraped off the seams of the top shelf and the ends were squared with a hand saw. I mounted it and we were done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being mobile, I can roll this to wherever I want, which when not in use wherever else I am not. Most of my shop construction has revolved around permanence. This is the first roving cart. It may not be the last.


Nicely done Paul. Every inch of shop space is valuable and it looks as though you are making the best of it.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Thickness Planer Cart Build*
> 
> In at least one of my previous posts you will find the DeWALT 734 thickness planer sitting atop a smaller bench in the background. This was a major step up (no pun intended!) from the floor dolly it was sitting on. But it had two drawbacks that I couldn't accent any longer. The first is I had to turn it at angle in relation to the bench top every time I wanted to use it, so the outfeed wouldn't hit the band saw. The bench's proximity to other benches and equipment limited the length of boards I could feed through it. The second problem was that it was taking up valuable Real Estate for what little time is spent running it. Yesterday I started a shop build that would resolve this problem.
> 
> Before starting on this build, I first disassembled the old dolly, reclaiming the Torx-head deck screws, a handle and two of the four casters. Two more casters were purchased at the big box store. Otherwise, this build was all materials owned, recycled or repurposed.
> 
> The cart had to fit between the table saw and main work bench and the old Formica laminated top I got from Dad was the perfect size. I turned it upside down on the main bench and buidl the cart from the top down.
> 
> Here is the first major assembly point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted ballast at the bottom to stabilize the 80 lb. planer, so I added two braces to the bottom frame and topped it with 1/2-in. plywood. A handle was placed at each end. A cross brace was added to each end for an additional shelf:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before going any further, I checked to see if the cart would maneuver around the table saw and benches and fit in the space designated for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found three 3/4-in. pine boards to make the top shelf from. My Sears Craftsman automotive sockets and box wrench set chest is heavy enough to act as ballast. I finally have a place to put it. It was always in the way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the thickness planer to get three boards to the same thickness: about 5/8-in.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then jointed the boards on the table saw to ready for glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the heavy tool chest as passive ballast in the glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dried glue was scraped off the seams of the top shelf and the ends were squared with a hand saw. I mounted it and we were done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being mobile, I can roll this to wherever I want, which when not in use wherever else I am not. Most of my shop construction has revolved around permanence. This is the first roving cart. It may not be the last.





> Nicely done Paul. Every inch of shop space is valuable and it looks as though you are making the best of it.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. Thinning out the unnecessary and consolidating where I can. It's helping, a lot.


----------



## Woodbutchery

retired_guru said:


> *Thickness Planer Cart Build*
> 
> In at least one of my previous posts you will find the DeWALT 734 thickness planer sitting atop a smaller bench in the background. This was a major step up (no pun intended!) from the floor dolly it was sitting on. But it had two drawbacks that I couldn't accent any longer. The first is I had to turn it at angle in relation to the bench top every time I wanted to use it, so the outfeed wouldn't hit the band saw. The bench's proximity to other benches and equipment limited the length of boards I could feed through it. The second problem was that it was taking up valuable Real Estate for what little time is spent running it. Yesterday I started a shop build that would resolve this problem.
> 
> Before starting on this build, I first disassembled the old dolly, reclaiming the Torx-head deck screws, a handle and two of the four casters. Two more casters were purchased at the big box store. Otherwise, this build was all materials owned, recycled or repurposed.
> 
> The cart had to fit between the table saw and main work bench and the old Formica laminated top I got from Dad was the perfect size. I turned it upside down on the main bench and buidl the cart from the top down.
> 
> Here is the first major assembly point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted ballast at the bottom to stabilize the 80 lb. planer, so I added two braces to the bottom frame and topped it with 1/2-in. plywood. A handle was placed at each end. A cross brace was added to each end for an additional shelf:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before going any further, I checked to see if the cart would maneuver around the table saw and benches and fit in the space designated for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found three 3/4-in. pine boards to make the top shelf from. My Sears Craftsman automotive sockets and box wrench set chest is heavy enough to act as ballast. I finally have a place to put it. It was always in the way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the thickness planer to get three boards to the same thickness: about 5/8-in.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then jointed the boards on the table saw to ready for glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the heavy tool chest as passive ballast in the glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dried glue was scraped off the seams of the top shelf and the ends were squared with a hand saw. I mounted it and we were done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being mobile, I can roll this to wherever I want, which when not in use wherever else I am not. Most of my shop construction has revolved around permanence. This is the first roving cart. It may not be the last.


Good build. Simple and versatile. Also, finding a place for heavy stuff that serves a secondary purpose … priceless.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Thickness Planer Cart Build*
> 
> In at least one of my previous posts you will find the DeWALT 734 thickness planer sitting atop a smaller bench in the background. This was a major step up (no pun intended!) from the floor dolly it was sitting on. But it had two drawbacks that I couldn't accent any longer. The first is I had to turn it at angle in relation to the bench top every time I wanted to use it, so the outfeed wouldn't hit the band saw. The bench's proximity to other benches and equipment limited the length of boards I could feed through it. The second problem was that it was taking up valuable Real Estate for what little time is spent running it. Yesterday I started a shop build that would resolve this problem.
> 
> Before starting on this build, I first disassembled the old dolly, reclaiming the Torx-head deck screws, a handle and two of the four casters. Two more casters were purchased at the big box store. Otherwise, this build was all materials owned, recycled or repurposed.
> 
> The cart had to fit between the table saw and main work bench and the old Formica laminated top I got from Dad was the perfect size. I turned it upside down on the main bench and buidl the cart from the top down.
> 
> Here is the first major assembly point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted ballast at the bottom to stabilize the 80 lb. planer, so I added two braces to the bottom frame and topped it with 1/2-in. plywood. A handle was placed at each end. A cross brace was added to each end for an additional shelf:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before going any further, I checked to see if the cart would maneuver around the table saw and benches and fit in the space designated for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found three 3/4-in. pine boards to make the top shelf from. My Sears Craftsman automotive sockets and box wrench set chest is heavy enough to act as ballast. I finally have a place to put it. It was always in the way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the thickness planer to get three boards to the same thickness: about 5/8-in.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then jointed the boards on the table saw to ready for glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the heavy tool chest as passive ballast in the glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dried glue was scraped off the seams of the top shelf and the ends were squared with a hand saw. I mounted it and we were done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being mobile, I can roll this to wherever I want, which when not in use wherever else I am not. Most of my shop construction has revolved around permanence. This is the first roving cart. It may not be the last.





> Good build. Simple and versatile. Also, finding a place for heavy stuff that serves a secondary purpose … priceless.
> 
> - Woodbutchery


Simple and versatile for the shop stuff works well for me. I look forward to getting the shop finished so I can make for other much finer fare. Finding places for things is a major, ongoing frustration. One step to the positive.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Thickness Planer Cart Build*
> 
> In at least one of my previous posts you will find the DeWALT 734 thickness planer sitting atop a smaller bench in the background. This was a major step up (no pun intended!) from the floor dolly it was sitting on. But it had two drawbacks that I couldn't accent any longer. The first is I had to turn it at angle in relation to the bench top every time I wanted to use it, so the outfeed wouldn't hit the band saw. The bench's proximity to other benches and equipment limited the length of boards I could feed through it. The second problem was that it was taking up valuable Real Estate for what little time is spent running it. Yesterday I started a shop build that would resolve this problem.
> 
> Before starting on this build, I first disassembled the old dolly, reclaiming the Torx-head deck screws, a handle and two of the four casters. Two more casters were purchased at the big box store. Otherwise, this build was all materials owned, recycled or repurposed.
> 
> The cart had to fit between the table saw and main work bench and the old Formica laminated top I got from Dad was the perfect size. I turned it upside down on the main bench and buidl the cart from the top down.
> 
> Here is the first major assembly point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted ballast at the bottom to stabilize the 80 lb. planer, so I added two braces to the bottom frame and topped it with 1/2-in. plywood. A handle was placed at each end. A cross brace was added to each end for an additional shelf:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before going any further, I checked to see if the cart would maneuver around the table saw and benches and fit in the space designated for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found three 3/4-in. pine boards to make the top shelf from. My Sears Craftsman automotive sockets and box wrench set chest is heavy enough to act as ballast. I finally have a place to put it. It was always in the way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the thickness planer to get three boards to the same thickness: about 5/8-in.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then jointed the boards on the table saw to ready for glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the heavy tool chest as passive ballast in the glue-up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dried glue was scraped off the seams of the top shelf and the ends were squared with a hand saw. I mounted it and we were done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being mobile, I can roll this to wherever I want, which when not in use wherever else I am not. Most of my shop construction has revolved around permanence. This is the first roving cart. It may not be the last.


It is so handy to have your tools mobile especially in limited spaces. Nice job.


----------



## retired_guru

*Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*










This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.

The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.

The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.


Looks sturdy enough for any size plant she wants to sit on it. Nicely done Paul.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.


Good idea and good design too!

If not used for plant should be sturdy enough for elephant training!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.





> Looks sturdy enough for any size plant she wants to sit on it. Nicely done Paul.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. I was thinking this might almost be sturdy enough to support my weight if I sat on it. Fortunately, I'm not in need to find out.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.





> Good idea and good design too!
> 
> If not used for plant should be sturdy enough for elephant training!
> 
> - ralbuck


Thanks, rjR. Not sure about the elephants.  I expect that this will spring into a parallel target: stools. I think this is going to be a lot of fun.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.


Nice! Good to see that you have the dungeon up to the point where you can now concentrate on projects.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.





> Nice! Good to see that you have the dungeon up to the point where you can now concentrate on projects.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. I'm only sort of there. I have a few projects in the works, one of which you see here. A busy month with Dad's healthcare and the holidays. Still some space problems in the shop. Oy vey. At least I'm doing something, right?


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.


Don't get a hernia lifting the plant that stand is designed for….LOL!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Current Project: Heavy Duty Plant Stand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be a gift to the wife, as she has been asking for some time that I make a low-level floor stand for her large plants. As I have been building this I've come to the conclusion I would like to make more of these, in various wood species, designs and heights to sell starting next year. I don't know that I would reproduce this one design again. This was 'ad hoc' based on what scrap reclaimed 2×4s I had in the shop. Not that using this material would be bad. I could torch the wood for grain effect, paint (one color or in the current popular distressed look finish), stain, even add inlays to the top and base. So regardless of how this build turns out, there will be more plant stands, stools, etc., to follow.
> 
> The top is a little over 2" thick. Skirts are about an inch thick, the legs about two. Tapers are done with a hand plane (shown). I used a Stanley No. 6 and No. 4 to level and smooth one side of the top, then flipped and ran it through a thickness planer. All other components were cut to shape with the table saw.
> 
> The picture shows the pieces laid out next to each other. Assembly will be with glue and dowels for the base. Table top (figure eight) washers will be used to affix the top to the base. There will mostly likely be further changes made to this project before assembly begins. If I can figure out how to guarantee centered holes in the leg ends, I may drill them out for furniture casters, which is what the wife wants. We'll see what I can jig up. Also, I am undecided on the finish.





> Don t get a hernia lifting the plant that stand is designed for….LOL!!
> 
> - luv2learn


Ha! In my wimpy state? No chance. Levers and pulleys.


----------



## retired_guru

*Temporarily Out of Commission!*










Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.

Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.

If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.

Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


----------



## JKMDETAIL

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


Assume they are able to put Humpty Dumpty back together again.


----------



## oldnovice

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


*Ouch*, I hope that you have a speedy recovery as laying idle is very tiring and boring!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> Assume they are able to put Humpty Dumpty back together again.
> 
> - JKMDETAIL


Just has to last long enough for me to afford a bionic replacement.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> *Ouch*, I hope that you have a speedy recovery as laying idle is very tiring and boring!
> 
> - oldnovice


Thanks. I have in the past always been a quick healer. Hopefully I haven't used up all the mojo.


----------



## BurlyBob

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


I'll bet your in real hot water with the wife now that you won't be ready for that ball room dance class she wanted to take. I'm thinking your going to be hiding out for a while till she gets over it.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> I'll bet your in real hot water with the wife now that you won t be ready for that ball room dance class she wanted to take. I m thinking your going to be hiding out for a while till she gets over it.
> 
> - BurlyBob


Not at all, Bob. I won't say I'm not driving her mad in meeting my daily demands…erm…needs. She went spastic when this happened. When I took a knee hard in the bathroom yesterday, and she was downstairs in her office below, her response was one of sheer terror. Hell, I don't come anywhere close to taking my wellbeing as seriously as she does, Go figure!


----------



## Redoak49

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


You need to be very good to your wife as you really need her. Hope you heal quickly.


----------



## Hermit

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


Paul I feel for you. In May I had a rather extensive ankle and heel surgery. Non weightbearing and elevated for 6 weeks. What helped me was a knee scooter. Im like you as far as being overweight so crutches didn't work for me but the knee scooter was a life saver. Bought mine off Amazon but you can find them on Craigslist. Would also recommend a grab bar near the toilet. Netflix helped also but didn't want to see a tv after I was able to walk again. Best of luck with your surgery.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> You need to be very good to your wife as you really need her. Hope you heal quickly.
> 
> - Redoak49


Thanks. Right you are. I couldn't get through this without her help.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> Paul I feel for you. In May I had a rather extensive ankle and heel surgery. Non weightbearing and elevated for 6 weeks. What helped me was a knee scooter. Im like you as far as being overweight so crutches didn t work for me but the knee scooter was a life saver. Bought mine off Amazon but you can find them on Craigslist. Would also recommend a grab bar near the toilet. Netflix helped also but didn t want to see a tv after I was able to walk again. Best of luck with your surgery.
> 
> - Hermit


Thanks for the well wishes and for sharing your experience. Six weeks was suggested, possibly more. The only working bathroom is on the second floor, so I spend my day in bed. Netflix and the Roku box. My tablet for Web based.

The knee scooter has been recommended to us. We will have to see how much a new one is. A friend of the family has one. She may not be using hers.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


Man, Paul, 
That's a bummer. Hope you get better sooner than projected.
At our age, we take a lot longer to bounce back from stuff like this. 
Take care!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> Man, Paul,
> That s a bummer. Hope you get better sooner than projected.
> At our age, we take a lot longer to bounce back from stuff like this.
> Take care!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. You are right about age and its affects on healing and recovery.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.


It is amazing the things we take for granted until we can't. Heal quickly Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Temporarily Out of Commission!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just when I was gearing up to start up production for this quarter and next year, I go and do a really stupid thing. A few days ago I was in the bed of a Ford F-250 pickup, helping to get a 6' x 8' cap onto the box. I was so focused on the work I neglected to let the common sense alarm ring, so it would warm me of impending stupidness. I went to jump down onto the ground, but instead of climbing over the tall box side, I jumped off the top of it. Probably a good five feet above ground when I leaped, rubber bottom mukluks without padding, 30+ pounds over weight and pretty out of shape, to boot. The result is a shattered right heel bone.
> 
> Friday or Monday following I hope to be in surgery. A stainless steel plate will be mounted to the outside of the heel and all the pieces will be screwed to it to make sure they heal in their proper place.
> 
> If I am lucky, maybe I will be able to work in the shop by Christmas time.
> 
> Add to this the five months I lost in the first half of this year due to a pinched nerve and degenerate discs in the neck, and one can't help but think someone is trying to send me a message. Doesn't matter. I never read memos.





> It is amazing the things we take for granted until we can t. Heal quickly Paul.
> 
> - luv2learn


The reason I call this is a life-changer. Not grandiose, but enough that I will never be the same again. Some of that is good. Not the brightest silver lining, but good enough.


----------



## retired_guru

*Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*

October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.

It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.

And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.

In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*
> 
> October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.
> 
> It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.
> 
> And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.
> 
> In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.


Good to have you back Paul. I missed your dungeon adventures. Woodworking gives me a sense of purpose especially this season of the year.


----------



## ralbuck

retired_guru said:


> *Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*
> 
> October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.
> 
> It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.
> 
> And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.
> 
> In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.


Having lived with arthritis for 60+ years now; I am aware that he is a very cruel master.

BUT-you cannot let it win. Sitting doing nothing makes it a lot worse.

Good attitude and Moderate exercise are your best friends now. A good physical therapist can also be of a lot of help. You ca also adjust the way you do things to avoid some of the pain.

NEVER give up-- ATTITUDE--will get you through a lot of this


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*
> 
> October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.
> 
> It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.
> 
> And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.
> 
> In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.





> Good to have you back Paul. I missed your dungeon adventures. Woodworking gives me a sense of purpose especially this season of the year.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. Appreciated. As much as the local event bombed out for me, the flurry of activity to build for it was a welcomed push to get back into action. It was a good gauge as to what I could and couldn't do. I suprised myself with long days of activity, and the following aches and pain recovering.

As for the dungeon adventures, let's just say (quietly) that I've let the arachnids have their way down there for far too long. I have some more reclaiming to do. And Christmas gifts to make. Hopefully some things to post here.

And you, my friend? How have you been? I'll check your profile in a bit to see what you have posted. I hope you and yours have been well.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*
> 
> October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.
> 
> It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.
> 
> And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.
> 
> In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.





> Having lived with arthritis for 60+ years now; I am aware that he is a very cruel master.
> 
> BUT-you cannot let it win. Sitting doing nothing makes it a lot worse.
> 
> Good attitude and Moderate exercise are your best friends now. A good physical therapist can also be of a lot of help. You ca also adjust the way you do things to avoid some of the pain.
> 
> NEVER give up-- ATTITUDE--will get you through a lot of this
> 
> - ralbuck


Most definitely! Right you are. I managewell enough with the pain, only taking a NSAID once or twice a month, after I have overworked the foot. I've surprised the medical people. They think I have this high tolerance for pain. I'm a woos. I'm just good at faking out myself as well as them. 

The arthritis issue will become a severe one over time. I already have a irrecoverable loss of mobility. The ankle doesn't move without things clicking and scraping each other. I was told at the end of all of this that I would never be right again. Meh. I'll get a hump for my back and file for a name change.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*
> 
> October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.
> 
> It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.
> 
> And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.
> 
> In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.


Hi, ya Paul.
I just caught this post this morning. 
Very glad you are recovered and getting back into the swing of things. Look forward to more project posts.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Getting Back On The (Saw)Horse*
> 
> October of 2017, while helping a couple mount a truck cap I was getting rid of onto the box of their Ford F-250, I decided toward the end that I could fly. Well, more like thought I was Bruce Lee. I remember still, within a second after jumping off the side of the box, that the ground was coming toward me way too fast and that I was going to hit the ground way harder than I anticipated. This wasn't the first time Gravity and I didn't see eye-to-eye. This time, payback was a bitch. Apparently, I landed with most of my weight on the right foot, the heel to be precise, resulting in its shattering. Later that week a surgeon, a very good one at that, took what pieces were good, added some cadaver bone to fill in, bound them all together with a custom stainless steel plate and ten screws. While the medical team that worked on me and supported my recovery constantly reminded me of my extraordinary recovery progress, what was leaked out in greater truth over those months was the long-term result of my mistake.
> 
> It's been about a year since that very stupid jump. As predicted by the medical staff, arthritis has set in, I will always have limited motion and have to deal with intermittent pain due to the damage done to cartilage in the planar sinus cavity. I'm advised not to even attempt to run, don't walk for exercise, as eventually I will wear out the ankle. I have to take rest breaks often to keep from overworking the foot and ankle. Pain has become an intimate lifemate.
> 
> And I'm good. Yep. Life-changing is just that. Perspective. Goals. Attitude. All that changes when you finally get it through your thick ego that you're no longer 100%; you can't do stupid things as you did before, and expect to dust yourself off and do it again. Now retired, the rest of my years are about finding purpose and fulfillment in my eyes, not in others. I now build for myself, my family, my friends. Not a bad way to live.
> 
> In the posts to follow I'll give a quick look at what I made over the summer.





> Hi, ya Paul.
> I just caught this post this morning.
> Very glad you are recovered and getting back into the swing of things. Look forward to more project posts.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks Ed. Looking forward to making more stuff, especially for myself, the dungeon, family and friends.


----------



## retired_guru

*Have the way notifications work here changed?*

Coming back from my hiatus away from here, I have noticed that I am not receiving notifications of comments on my previously made posts. I'll try and address what I find as I go. Thanks.


----------



## retired_guru

*Prototyping a Christmas Gift*










When the project I am working on is relatively small and the plans or concept thought up has never been tried before, I like to make the first build a prototype. There are several good reasons for taking the extra time and materials. In the case of the promised food and water bowl holders for my youngest daughter's two dogs, making up a prototype has given up valuable 'intel'. Plus, she lives at the other end of the state, so with Thanksgiving Day coming up and a meet up at her older sister's place, it makes sense to have a mock-up.

The original plans call for a bowl size smaller than either of the two size bowls I bought for this project. I was able to get the smaller size ones to work with the default plans dimensions, but only after doing some carving on the inside of the top side edges-the top will need to be extended two more inches.

I omitted the center styles in this build due to the plans instruction to glue them in place. If the styles are requested I will add them to the front and back panels once the pocket holes are drilled. Then I can drill and use screws from the inside to hold the styles in place. Her dogs are rough on whatever gets near their mouths. I don't want to leave it to glue and screws will allow them to be replaced if damaged.

The design is basic enough to allow for modifications to accommodate the shoulder height of her dogs-another good reason for making a prototype-as well as adding a front door and bottom for food storage.

Prototyping allows me to use rough or substandard materials I have on hand. I'm a waste-not-want-not maker. The legs were from 2"x4" stud cut-offs and 5/8" vinyl-laminated particle board, what was left of a cheap shelving unit we bought over 20 years ago and disassembled this past summer. These materials are getting a second chance at usefulness before heading into someone's wood burning furnace (legs) or the landfill (particle board). When the dimensions and looks are decided upon, the construction will be entirely of white oak.


----------



## retired_guru

*Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders*










I promised my youngest daughter for Christmas raised dog bowl holders for her two dogs. These are based on plans from *Build Something*. I posted in an earlier blog entry the prototype I built using vinyl-laminated chipboard and pine studs for the legs. You can see it in the picture, in front of the unfinished units. You may notice the two new units are longer and wider (an inch both ways) than the prototype, which was designed for a smaller bowl than I am going to use.

Originally, I was going to use reclaimed oak throughout, but instead went with 3/4" oak veneer plywood for the front, sides, and top. One half sheet makes two dog bowl holders and leaves a little bit of usable waste. White and red oak is used for the trim and legs.

Two 7-5/8" holes need to be cut out of each top piece for the bowls. I also need to rip thin oak strips to add as a boarder to the plywood top. Pocket hole joinery makes this a quick build, but would cause wood movement issues if I had gone with solid wood, hense the switch to plywood.

My daughter wants them finished in a dark stain. I will probably go with Kona or Espresso, then poly for the topcoat. The joinery simplifies finishing, by sanding and finishing the bases and tops separately, before assembling. A good thing, because Christmas is fast approaching, and we all know finishes take forever to dry when we are in a hurry.

I'm sure she'll be happy with them. Laszlo and Louis…well, they are always happy when I am around, so it doesn't matter what they think.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promised my youngest daughter for Christmas raised dog bowl holders for her two dogs. These are based on plans from *Build Something*. I posted in an earlier blog entry the prototype I built using vinyl-laminated chipboard and pine studs for the legs. You can see it in the picture, in front of the unfinished units. You may notice the two new units are longer and wider (an inch both ways) than the prototype, which was designed for a smaller bowl than I am going to use.
> 
> Originally, I was going to use reclaimed oak throughout, but instead went with 3/4" oak veneer plywood for the front, sides, and top. One half sheet makes two dog bowl holders and leaves a little bit of usable waste. White and red oak is used for the trim and legs.
> 
> Two 7-5/8" holes need to be cut out of each top piece for the bowls. I also need to rip thin oak strips to add as a boarder to the plywood top. Pocket hole joinery makes this a quick build, but would cause wood movement issues if I had gone with solid wood, hense the switch to plywood.
> 
> My daughter wants them finished in a dark stain. I will probably go with Kona or Espresso, then poly for the topcoat. The joinery simplifies finishing, by sanding and finishing the bases and tops separately, before assembling. A good thing, because Christmas is fast approaching, and we all know finishes take forever to dry when we are in a hurry.
> 
> I'm sure she'll be happy with them. Laszlo and Louis…well, they are always happy when I am around, so it doesn't matter what they think.


Nicely done Paul. The pups will enjoy them for sure.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promised my youngest daughter for Christmas raised dog bowl holders for her two dogs. These are based on plans from *Build Something*. I posted in an earlier blog entry the prototype I built using vinyl-laminated chipboard and pine studs for the legs. You can see it in the picture, in front of the unfinished units. You may notice the two new units are longer and wider (an inch both ways) than the prototype, which was designed for a smaller bowl than I am going to use.
> 
> Originally, I was going to use reclaimed oak throughout, but instead went with 3/4" oak veneer plywood for the front, sides, and top. One half sheet makes two dog bowl holders and leaves a little bit of usable waste. White and red oak is used for the trim and legs.
> 
> Two 7-5/8" holes need to be cut out of each top piece for the bowls. I also need to rip thin oak strips to add as a boarder to the plywood top. Pocket hole joinery makes this a quick build, but would cause wood movement issues if I had gone with solid wood, hense the switch to plywood.
> 
> My daughter wants them finished in a dark stain. I will probably go with Kona or Espresso, then poly for the topcoat. The joinery simplifies finishing, by sanding and finishing the bases and tops separately, before assembling. A good thing, because Christmas is fast approaching, and we all know finishes take forever to dry when we are in a hurry.
> 
> I'm sure she'll be happy with them. Laszlo and Louis…well, they are always happy when I am around, so it doesn't matter what they think.





> Nicely done Paul. The pups will enjoy them for sure.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. I'm looking forward to seeing how these hold up under use. Laszlo and Louis are a handful and a half.


----------



## retired_guru

*Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders & Minecraft CircleGuideKit Review*

Yesterday I decided to pick up a commercial circle cutting jig over making one for the full size router. The one I built a few years ago to work with a trim router would have had to be modified for this build, and the trim router would have been woefully under-powered for a 3/4" depth cut through hardwood plywood. I'm glad I did. The results and ease of use (once I figured out which router's base would best fit the universal plate in the kit) justified the cost, in my opinion. So as well as an update on the the project, consider this a product review, too.

The Milescraft CircleGuideKit (Model # 1219) comes with all you see here, for about $40.00 at our local Lowe's:










In the beginning, I had mistakingly interpreted the black plastic spacer for a 1/2' shank insert. The only plunge router I have that takes 1/2" shank bits is the Ryobi mounted in the table. After taking the table base plate off I found out the universal mounting router base provided in the kit would mount two holes on a less than desirable configuration and I would have to make a trip to the store for new bolts. Then I took a close look at the router bit provided and sighed in relief. The router bit has a 1/4" shank, not a 1/2", and the plastic piece I has mistaken for the size of the bit shaft was mounted the other way, used for centering the universal plate on the router base. My BlueHawk plunge router exclusively uses 1/4" shank bits, and it turned out nicely that the universal base plate made a three-bolt contact with the router's base.

Because I wanted the hole, not the circle, and didn't want the circle-mounted jig to drive the bit into the edge of the hole made, both the circle waste was screwed to the sacrificial base board and the project board was confined by a snug border. This worked out really well.










One fine threaded 1/2" screw affixes the jig to the wood to be cut and provides the pivot for it to spin around on. I thought this would be the 'Achilles's heel'. The pivot was solid. The jig never strayed as I spun it around.










The guide's measuring gauge is divided into metric on one side and inches on the other. Markings are given for "O" and "I", outer and inner diameters (*not* radii), respectively. Once the setting is made, you cinch down the setting. On mine, the self-adhesive measure had been applied about 1/16" off. I'm glad I ran my test on the other side of the sacrificial backer board first. All I had to do thereafter was alter my setting accordingly.










Before mounting the router to the jig, I had set the depth stop to cut a depth that was deep enough to clear the thickness of the top and bite slightly into the sacrificial OSB base. Because I had to use the router's base as well as the jig's, and with the extra thickness of the jig, the only way to achieve the depth I needed was to insert the minimum amount of bit shaft that could be safely held by the chuck. I plan on purchasing a longer bit soon.










This picture doesn't give the semblance of a roughly 7/8" cut. I was impressed with what I felt was a minimal, acceptable amount of splintering of the red oak veneer. Well done.










The first top cut. Spacing of the holes was perfect.


















Tomorrow I mill some more oak stock and rip to make edge banding. Once applied and dry, some detail work needs to be done (easing edges through sanding and chamfers) and final sanding. I'm planning on applying the finish Sunday.


----------



## retired_guru

*Best Edge Banding Around!*

Before heading out to the Big Box Store, I checked to see if they had the 3/4" wide red oak edge banding I needed to finish the daughter's two dog bowl holders. Look what I found:










Yep. You read the description right: 3/4" thick, 6" wide, 25' long.

Heh. Here we wrap our oak planks into rolls.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Best Edge Banding Around!*
> 
> Before heading out to the Big Box Store, I checked to see if they had the 3/4" wide red oak edge banding I needed to finish the daughter's two dog bowl holders. Look what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. You read the description right: 3/4" thick, 6" wide, 25' long.
> 
> Heh. Here we wrap our oak planks into rolls.


Good stuff I have used it myself.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Best Edge Banding Around!*
> 
> Before heading out to the Big Box Store, I checked to see if they had the 3/4" wide red oak edge banding I needed to finish the daughter's two dog bowl holders. Look what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. You read the description right: 3/4" thick, 6" wide, 25' long.
> 
> Heh. Here we wrap our oak planks into rolls.





> Good stuff I have used it myself.
> 
> - luv2learn


Preheating the iron as I type this.

Ahem. I take it you caught the major typo in the Big Box Store's web display?


----------



## lightweightladylefty

retired_guru said:


> *Best Edge Banding Around!*
> 
> Before heading out to the Big Box Store, I checked to see if they had the 3/4" wide red oak edge banding I needed to finish the daughter's two dog bowl holders. Look what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. You read the description right: 3/4" thick, 6" wide, 25' long.
> 
> Heh. Here we wrap our oak planks into rolls.


Oh, Paul, quit complaining. Maybe you can put it into your steam box and straighten it back out again, but you might need to set your iron on a pretty hot setting to get it to stick to the edge of your project. Or you can always resaw it into 50 veneer edge bands, use the one you need, and return the rest for 49 refunds.

That is a really good deal. Finding 25' long lumber is nearly impossible. And you'd have to pay for special freight charges if they didn't coil it like that. You should probably order a few at that price and you could build a nice piece of furniture for under $25 . . . maybe a round cabinet if you can't steam out the bend entirely.

Too bad you didn't share the website so we could take advantage of that deal, too!

L/W


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Best Edge Banding Around!*
> 
> Before heading out to the Big Box Store, I checked to see if they had the 3/4" wide red oak edge banding I needed to finish the daughter's two dog bowl holders. Look what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. You read the description right: 3/4" thick, 6" wide, 25' long.
> 
> Heh. Here we wrap our oak planks into rolls.





> Oh, Paul, quit complaining. Maybe you can put it into your steam box and straighten it back out again, but you might need to set your iron on a pretty hot setting to get it to stick to the edge of your project. Or you can always resaw it into 50 veneer edge bands, use the one you need, and return the rest for 49 refunds.
> 
> That is a really good deal. Finding 25 long lumber is nearly impossible. And you d have to pay for special freight charges if they didn t coil it like that. You should probably order a few at that price and you could build a nice piece of furniture for under $25 . . . maybe a round cabinet if you can t steam out the bend entirely.
> 
> Too bad you didn t share the website so we could take advantage of that deal, too!
> 
> L/W
> 
> - lightweightladylefty


Awwww, Mom! I was only funnin'! Tries hard to get his right ear released from Mom's vice-grips.

Great come-back.


----------



## retired_guru

*Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*










Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.

The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.

Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.
> 
> The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.
> 
> Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…


Very nice gifts Paul. I am glad you are making sawdust again.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.
> 
> The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.
> 
> Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…





> Very nice gifts Paul. I am glad you are making sawdust again.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. Hustling 'til Christmas. Late, as usual.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.
> 
> The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.
> 
> Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…


Nice projects !!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.
> 
> The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.
> 
> Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…





> Nice projects !!!
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. Running out of time, I had to K.I.S.S.


----------



## bugradx2

retired_guru said:


> *Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.
> 
> The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.
> 
> Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…


very neat!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Child's Tool Box & Tea Light Sets*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally making some progress on the gift building. The neighbor's two year old is into tools, so I made for him a child's size carpenter's tool box. The sides and bottom are red oak, the ends hard maple, and the handle and pins out of poplar dowels.
> 
> The tea light sets are going out to friends and family. The pines bases were cut from the staves of a large cable spool. While the holders will accept tea light candles, for safety sake I am using their LED counterpart.
> 
> Next: staining the two dog bowl holders…





> very neat!
> 
> - bugradx2


Thanks! Simple stuff.


----------



## retired_guru

*Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders - The Field Test*










Laszlo and Louis are enjoying their new raised dog bowl holders, courtesy of yours truly. Louis (on the right) is food territorial, but offers no problems when served a welcomed drink along side his smaller buddy. I was glad to see that Laszlo found the stand to be at a comfortable height for his shorter stature. Both dogs are still pups, by the way.

I'm also glad to see the water beads on the gloss poly finish. Should be easy food clean-up, too.


----------



## BB1

retired_guru said:


> *Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders - The Field Test*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laszlo and Louis are enjoying their new raised dog bowl holders, courtesy of yours truly. Louis (on the right) is food territorial, but offers no problems when served a welcomed drink along side his smaller buddy. I was glad to see that Laszlo found the stand to be at a comfortable height for his shorter stature. Both dogs are still pups, by the way.
> 
> I'm also glad to see the water beads on the gloss poly finish. Should be easy food clean-up, too.


Looks pup-approved!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders - The Field Test*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laszlo and Louis are enjoying their new raised dog bowl holders, courtesy of yours truly. Louis (on the right) is food territorial, but offers no problems when served a welcomed drink along side his smaller buddy. I was glad to see that Laszlo found the stand to be at a comfortable height for his shorter stature. Both dogs are still pups, by the way.
> 
> I'm also glad to see the water beads on the gloss poly finish. Should be easy food clean-up, too.





> Looks pup-approved!
> 
> - BB1


It appears so!


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders - The Field Test*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laszlo and Louis are enjoying their new raised dog bowl holders, courtesy of yours truly. Louis (on the right) is food territorial, but offers no problems when served a welcomed drink along side his smaller buddy. I was glad to see that Laszlo found the stand to be at a comfortable height for his shorter stature. Both dogs are still pups, by the way.
> 
> I'm also glad to see the water beads on the gloss poly finish. Should be easy food clean-up, too.


Ah, yes ….A couple of satisfied bowsers living a life of decadent luxury!
Nice work, Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Progress: Raised Dog Bowl Holders - The Field Test*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laszlo and Louis are enjoying their new raised dog bowl holders, courtesy of yours truly. Louis (on the right) is food territorial, but offers no problems when served a welcomed drink along side his smaller buddy. I was glad to see that Laszlo found the stand to be at a comfortable height for his shorter stature. Both dogs are still pups, by the way.
> 
> I'm also glad to see the water beads on the gloss poly finish. Should be easy food clean-up, too.





> Ah, yes ….A couple of satisfied bowsers living a life of decadent luxury!
> Nice work, Paul.
> 
> - handsawgeek


Thanks, Ed. So far, no complaints. I doubt I would get any. They are like their master, my youngest daughter: pragmatic and uncaring of daily minutiae.


----------



## retired_guru

*Hibernation*

Going beardless didn't last long. I need to do a selfie sometime soon, as my glasses are different and I'm a bit grayer, too. For now, I'll bless you all with an old picture of my grizzled mug.

I've spent very little time this month in the Dungeon Workshop. It shows. What a mess I've left from the last time I tried to organize and clean up from the *previous* mess made making Christmas gifts. It's normal for me to take the winters off from building anything outside of the workshop's needs. The average temperature has been 54 F, with a couple of days at 52 F. In February, our coldest month, I'm sure it will get below 50 F-too cold for most finishes and borderline for glue-ups. Even with those finishes I can apply at this temperature level, I haven't any venting options that wouldn't compromise the rest of the house. It's a good time to organize.

The other reason for not being in the workshop is due to illness. I finish with the amoxicillin Thursday and will shoot for getting back to work this weekend. This will be the year I get to major construction and arrangement in the dungeon. Assuming, of course, I don't break something else or catch another 'bug'. Oh, and speaking of bugs…the arachnids have been building up their forces in my down time. War is inevitable.


----------



## handsawgeek

retired_guru said:


> *Hibernation*
> 
> Going beardless didn't last long. I need to do a selfie sometime soon, as my glasses are different and I'm a bit grayer, too. For now, I'll bless you all with an old picture of my grizzled mug.
> 
> I've spent very little time this month in the Dungeon Workshop. It shows. What a mess I've left from the last time I tried to organize and clean up from the *previous* mess made making Christmas gifts. It's normal for me to take the winters off from building anything outside of the workshop's needs. The average temperature has been 54 F, with a couple of days at 52 F. In February, our coldest month, I'm sure it will get below 50 F-too cold for most finishes and borderline for glue-ups. Even with those finishes I can apply at this temperature level, I haven't any venting options that wouldn't compromise the rest of the house. It's a good time to organize.
> 
> The other reason for not being in the workshop is due to illness. I finish with the amoxicillin Thursday and will shoot for getting back to work this weekend. This will be the year I get to major construction and arrangement in the dungeon. Assuming, of course, I don't break something else or catch another 'bug'. Oh, and speaking of bugs…the arachnids have been building up their forces in my down time. War is inevitable.


Hey, Paul,
Yep, shops and messes go hand in hand.
And spiders…yuck…I hate em'. Always leaving sticky spider-gunk hanging around that gets loaded with sawdust and other debris and attaches itself to everything in the shop.
Recently when I moved stuff around in another part of the basement, I found a massive black widow nest, complete with a couple of egg sacks. Good thing I caught this before the little beasties hatched! 
Had to break out the spider spray and hit all the basement corners and window wells. That seemed to have helped somewhat.
That sucks about the cold shop. That is why I am forever grateful to the missus for letting me commandeer one end of the unfinished basement.
Take care and keep posting.
-Ed


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Hibernation*
> 
> Going beardless didn't last long. I need to do a selfie sometime soon, as my glasses are different and I'm a bit grayer, too. For now, I'll bless you all with an old picture of my grizzled mug.
> 
> I've spent very little time this month in the Dungeon Workshop. It shows. What a mess I've left from the last time I tried to organize and clean up from the *previous* mess made making Christmas gifts. It's normal for me to take the winters off from building anything outside of the workshop's needs. The average temperature has been 54 F, with a couple of days at 52 F. In February, our coldest month, I'm sure it will get below 50 F-too cold for most finishes and borderline for glue-ups. Even with those finishes I can apply at this temperature level, I haven't any venting options that wouldn't compromise the rest of the house. It's a good time to organize.
> 
> The other reason for not being in the workshop is due to illness. I finish with the amoxicillin Thursday and will shoot for getting back to work this weekend. This will be the year I get to major construction and arrangement in the dungeon. Assuming, of course, I don't break something else or catch another 'bug'. Oh, and speaking of bugs…the arachnids have been building up their forces in my down time. War is inevitable.





> Hey, Paul,
> Yep, shops and messes go hand in hand.
> And spiders…yuck…I hate em . Always leaving sticky spider-gunk hanging around that gets loaded with sawdust and other debris and attaches itself to everything in the shop.


If I see them, they are dead. My only concern are for the ones I can't see: ambush predators. 



> Recently when I moved stuff around in another part of the basement, I found a massive black widow nest, complete with a couple of egg sacks. Good thing I caught this before the little beasties hatched!
> Had to break out the spider spray and hit all the basement corners and window wells. That seemed to have helped somewhat.


Ick. Black Widdows are native to our parts. I can't be sure that I've ever seen one, but because I could I won't ever touch one or let one get on me, to be safe. I'm glad you destroyed the eggs before they could hatch. Double-ick!



> That sucks about the cold shop. That is why I am forever grateful to the missus for letting me commandeer one end of the unfinished basement.


Yeah, well, it is what it is. If Iw as in better health this winter I would be getting a lot done down there. I haven't been, on both accounts. Looking forward to Spring!


----------



## retired_guru

*The Future in the Fast Lane*

It's been a while since I last logged in. I've been busy dealing with a life running on its own mindset-no batteries needed, and definitely with no input or a 'by your leave' from me. Not all that unusual, I guess. Still, not what I signed on for. I'll highlight the important bits.

Recently, my father passed on. He had been predeceased by Mom six years earlier. No longer needed to manage his health care and needs, the wife and I made the decision to move across the state to be close to our kids. The decision kicked up our daily living metabolism to get this house in shape, to finish loose ends, and to find a new place near to our kids by no later than summer of 2020.

For the sake of easing the move, I'm in the process of thinning out tools and equipment, stuff I really don't need anymore or never got around to seeing a use for. I'm also culling stored lumber and sheet goods. Some haven't fared well in The Dungeon Workshop's humid environment.

The first tool to be fired is my Hitachi C10FL hybrid contractor saw. Too big. Too heavy to want to disassemble, haul a couple of hours, and then assemble again. And that is assuming the new place will have a workshop or something close enough to put it in right off. 'Best to let her go. The new owner will be by this Saturday to pick her up. Afterward, I'm off to Lowe's to pickup a DeWalt DWE7491RS, which will better handle current and future construction tasks, as well as have a portable footprint in The Dungeon.

This is but a micro-recap of the changes I've experienced in the past year or so. More to come, I've been assured. The positive takeaway is that I will be, in the near future, in a better place (to woodwork, not death) and that's an encouraging motivator toward getting through the hard work ahead. Moving forward is preferable to whining in a rocker about old dreams and accomplishments that are quickly fading into the past. The only real challenge is in getting the ol' body to keep up with the fading mind.


----------



## retired_guru

*Making Progress: Breathe...*

A couple of weeks ago I said good-bye to my Hitachi C10FL hybrid contractor saw. It had served me well, but a move in the near future makes it opportune to sell it now, replacing it with a lighter, portable jobsite saw. I've had the DeWalt DWE7491RS for a couple of weeks . Just a little more tweaking before I will fire it up for the first time. Touch and feel has me impressed, and I'm enjoying the portability, being able to move it out of the way and park it wherever the latest free bit of space comes to be.

The large outfeed/workbench has been broken down. I salvaged what I added and discarded the commercial crap that was its base unit. The Harbor Freight bench has taken its place, giving me full access to the two vices and a minimum of three of the four sides. It's narrow width allows for more room around it than the previous table. I had been contemplating this relocation for years. It will make traditional woodworking much easier.

Every workbench that can be moved has been relocated within the dungeon. While not perfect yet, the difference has been uplifting. I feel as if I am taking deep breaths for the first time since the Hitachi came in. So much free space.

Some small tabletop equipment hasn't found a home yet. I can see some 'musical benches' yet needs to be played before I'm happy with the relocations. I will be thinning out tools and equipment that hasn't been needed or useful, which will make it more efficient, easier to find what I need.

Knowing a move is imminent parks a fire under one's butt. Things to be made before we can leave this home. Purpose. Focus. And just getting rid of sh*t. Downsizing has shown to have perks, even for a pack rat like me.


----------



## retired_guru

*The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*

The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:

*The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*





I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:










John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.

The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.

Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.










I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.


----------



## htl

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.


I like it! I like it!!
Let the hose hang down and be tied to a leg by the Ridgid sign and it won't be top heavy and tip over.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.





> I like it! I like it!!
> Let the hose hang down and be tied to a leg by the Ridgid sign and it won t be top heavy and tip over.
> 
> - htl


I may have not explained well. I wasn't referring to the hose you see in the picture, which is between the separator outlet and vacuum inlet. The separator inlet hose runs from the separator to the machinery or suction tool at the end of the hose. It's missing in the picture. The cart is quite stable on its wheels. It never once tried to tip over. By the way, the hose you see in the picture is provided with the separator, and it's a stretch to make the connection between the two elbows. If the hose separates from one of the elbows in use, I'll have to cut an inch or two off from the leg poles to shorten the distance. I plan on doing this in the second build.

Thanks for commenting!

Of course, one shouldn't be tugging on the inlet hose to move it the cart around the shop, right?


----------



## Redoak49

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.


Excellent !!!!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.





> Excellent !!!!
> 
> - Redoak49


Thanks!


----------



## SoCalBonnie

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.


I made one based on John's plans, too, but I like yours better.

The Duststopper is perfect for this application, the Dust Deputy not so much. And my old vacuum is pretty tall, too, making for a much higher cart even though the footprint is about the same. It isn't too tippy, though. I also added holes to hold the attachments.










(Ignore the messy garage, we're in the middle of landscaping and I'm trying to work in there with all our yard stuff crammed in there, too.)


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.





> I made one based on John s plans, too, but I like yours better.


Thanks!



> The Duststopper is perfect for this application, the Dust Deputy not so much.


I agree. I have a DustDeputy attached to a 2.5 gal. Lowe's bucket. Tipsy on the floor-always finding it on its side when I look back in use. Shortly after I got it, it accidentally rolled off the workbench while working to attach it-broke at the top seams. It's a fragile plastic, to be sure.



> And my old vacuum is pretty tall, too, making for a much higher cart even though the footprint is about the same. It isn t too tippy, though. I also added holes to hold the attachments.


I like the squat profile of the Rigid vac. Pretty hard to tip over even under abuse.

Yes, the DustDeputy does add unwanted height, but you made it work well in your setup. I found it interesting the way you ran the vac out/DD inlet hose through the plywood top. It's unfortunate this won't work with the fat Rigid vac.

I decided against holes for attachments. I may come to regret this later on. I can make caddies for the left and right sides if I decide I want them on the cart.



> (Ignore the messy garage, we re in the middle of landscaping and I m trying to work in there with all our yard stuff crammed in there, too.)
> 
> - SoCalBonnie


Heh. No complaints from me. I can barely get around the Dungeon as it is now, and I have very little benchtop space to work on. Cleaning and rearranging is like playing with a sliding piece puzzle. :/

Thanks for comments and posting yours!


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.


Clever use of the pvc and fittings fro the legs Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.





> Clever use of the pvc and fittings fro the legs Paul.
> 
> - luv2learn


Most definitely, Lee. The minimalist appearance and footprint caught my eye the first time I watched the video, and I knew I had to a couple for the workshop. I've already used the first unit shown here and it works well enough. The second one will be done shortly.

I hope you have been keeping busy. Playing, of course.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart*
> 
> The Dungeon Workshop continues to be a war zone, but progress is being had, albeit s-l-o-w-l-y. This evening I finished one of two identical dust control builds, based on this YouTube video:
> 
> *The Ultimate Space-Saving Dust Cyclone Separator Cart | Dustopper & Ridgid Vac Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the space-saving design of John's design. Floor space is at a premium and I need a portable system, one at each end of the workshop. This is what the first unit looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John's dimensions were incomplete. To find center for the hole, I drew a diagonal line from corner to corner. At the center point, I drew an 11-1/8" circle with a compass. This was the diameter needed to made sure my bucket fit snugly in the hole. I measured 3" from each corner along each size, then took a square at that point and extended 3" into the plywood. Where adjacent sides intersected is where the holes were drilled for the bolt caps-this was done *before* the corners were rounded. If measured correctly, the holes should be 24" from each other, which is the same distance between the centers of the casters.
> 
> The PVC caps from my local Big Box were highly domed, so I went with oversized (3/8" x 1-1/2") bolts to secure them to the underside of the plywood top.
> 
> Once assembled, I rolled it around on the Dungeon's uneven floor to check for stability. Quite stable, I was happy to see. However, when I tugged on the separator inlet hose to move the unit forward the back of the bucket would lift out of the plywood holder. Adding a slide bolt took care of this, but I think I will add a pair of handles to the plywood on this unit and probably make cut out hand holds in the second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start on the second unit tomorrow: the same Rigid model vacuum and HomeDepot DustStopper separator. I will add another post if I do make any changes in the build.


An FYI: I found it necessary to secure the PVC to the vac's black plastic caster base. The PVC ends would pop out at on slightest lift off the plywood top. Two undersized opposing holes were drilled and sheet metal screws inserted through the caster base and into the PVC. Worked well.


----------



## retired_guru

*Scrappy Solution*

I found a simple solution in the ongoing reorganization of the Dungeon Workshop. The challenge in finding the home for benchtop tools is when the unit has multiple angles of usage. A combination disc and belt sander is a good example. So is the WorkSharp WS3000. Besides the front approach, rotating the tool 90 degrees to the left and to the right gives better or needed access to wide blade honing and see-through free-hand honing, respectively. The research I've been doing on a rotating top tool station (ShopNotes 35) inspired me to do something similar, on a much smaller scale, and I found the perfect board for a turntable.

In my recently completed dual unit dust collectors project, two holes were cutout of the 3/4" plywood tops for the 5 gallon buckets to hang in. The scraps were just large enough for the turntable I needed. Cleaning up the top and bottom edges of the pilot hole drilled to allow jigsaw access make for a handy, albeit unnecessary, finger hole to aid in turning the platform. A shanked woodscrew becomes the pivot and a penny nail is used to secure rotation stops, in either of two holes that go through the turntable and into the benchtop. A small nylon cable clip gives a grip when removing the nail.





































Another K.I.S.S. solution, and one less scrap I need to toss out.


----------



## retired_guru

*Flip-Top Tool Cart - Down-n-Dirty*

Another episode in the ongoing effort to organize the dungeon workshop, which is driven by the need to have every tool, screw, nut, and bolt, in its appropriate place for when I have to pack it all up next year for the big move. In this episode: the completion of a down-n-dirty flip-top tool cart.

My DeWalt thickness planer has always been too heavy for me to lift onto and off a bench top, so I made a couple of years ago a mobile cart for it. Unfortunately, the cart's narrow trac and oversize casters made it a bit unstable on the moon-crater surface of my workshop. It was top-heavy, as well as always in the way. Really, I didn't have the floor space to give up for it, either. And with the massive rearranging of benches and reorganization of tools and equipment, I also now needed a home for two other tools. Converting the current thickness planer cart, over starting from scratch, was the most cost-effective and time-saving choice.

The sides, base, and plywood shelf atop the base, are original to the previous cart. To increase the cart's trac and improve stability on my uneven floor, I added a two-by at the bottom of each end and braced. Smaller casters were used than before; a wise decision.










The top is comprised of three layers of 3/4" plywood, sandwiching a channel made for the 36" x 3/4" steel rod. Four 3/4" Jeremywell Set Screw Shaft Collars were used to secure the rod to the bench, one on either side of each end mount/pivot. This worked out better than I had expected, making sure the ends can't splay out or bend inward over time due to the weight of the mounted tools and movement of the top.










Four 5" eye bolts are used to lock the top in place, support each corner when pushed in. I had these in the shop, and I liked the handles, handy when pulling them out and pushing into place.










Cable clips hold in place the wrapped up cables of the Delta disc/belt sander and WorkSharp WS3000 when not in use, securing the wraps to the top when the thickness planer is on top. Cable clips were also used to secure the power strip's cord when neither of the tools are needed.










I had in mind of adding a hinged door to each open side, as well as sheathing the ends. It won't be long before the arachnids take over and the saw dust coats their webmaking. Besides, the thickness planer doesn't come out very often, so it's no real hassle to have to open both doors when I need to flip. We'll see over time. The To-Do list is pretty long.


----------



## retired_guru

*Recovery Update*

I'm happy to tell you that 2-1/2 years after my serious accident, my right foot has healed to the point where I am at about 90 percent of pre-accident physical abilities. Balance has been improving, albeit subtly, gradually to the point that I only would notice if I stop to look back and compare what I can do now to what I was able to in the recent past. I can tell that I have lost quite a bit of muscle mass, especially in my legs. Once Spring brings days of dry roads and warm temperatures I hope to get out on a bicycle and do some easy leg strengthening and eventually some cardio. Much credit to improvements in my health and in dealing with recovery must be given to my weight loss. I've lost about 25 pounds since summer of last year. Another ten needs to be dropped to be into an athletic, health and safety promoting shape. I'm taking it slow, having first and foremost developed a lasting lifestyle change, some of which recently came about from a sincere effort to finally tackle digestive system ailments and limitations. Life is about progress. When you stop, you die. So I'm doing what I can to keep this old wagon a'running.

I have some other things to post, to follow this one-more updates that will affect my future in the workshop, for the better, rest assured.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Recovery Update*
> 
> I'm happy to tell you that 2-1/2 years after my serious accident, my right foot has healed to the point where I am at about 90 percent of pre-accident physical abilities. Balance has been improving, albeit subtly, gradually to the point that I only would notice if I stop to look back and compare what I can do now to what I was able to in the recent past. I can tell that I have lost quite a bit of muscle mass, especially in my legs. Once Spring brings days of dry roads and warm temperatures I hope to get out on a bicycle and do some easy leg strengthening and eventually some cardio. Much credit to improvements in my health and in dealing with recovery must be given to my weight loss. I've lost about 25 pounds since summer of last year. Another ten needs to be dropped to be into an athletic, health and safety promoting shape. I'm taking it slow, having first and foremost developed a lasting lifestyle change, some of which recently came about from a sincere effort to finally tackle digestive system ailments and limitations. Life is about progress. When you stop, you die. So I'm doing what I can to keep this old wagon a'running.
> 
> I have some other things to post, to follow this one-more updates that will affect my future in the workshop, for the better, rest assured.


Paul, I am happy that your recovery is progressing nicely.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Recovery Update*
> 
> I'm happy to tell you that 2-1/2 years after my serious accident, my right foot has healed to the point where I am at about 90 percent of pre-accident physical abilities. Balance has been improving, albeit subtly, gradually to the point that I only would notice if I stop to look back and compare what I can do now to what I was able to in the recent past. I can tell that I have lost quite a bit of muscle mass, especially in my legs. Once Spring brings days of dry roads and warm temperatures I hope to get out on a bicycle and do some easy leg strengthening and eventually some cardio. Much credit to improvements in my health and in dealing with recovery must be given to my weight loss. I've lost about 25 pounds since summer of last year. Another ten needs to be dropped to be into an athletic, health and safety promoting shape. I'm taking it slow, having first and foremost developed a lasting lifestyle change, some of which recently came about from a sincere effort to finally tackle digestive system ailments and limitations. Life is about progress. When you stop, you die. So I'm doing what I can to keep this old wagon a'running.
> 
> I have some other things to post, to follow this one-more updates that will affect my future in the workshop, for the better, rest assured.





> Paul, I am happy that your recovery is progressing nicely.
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. While I healed fast from the surgery, rehabbing the foot and ankle through normal use took a lot longer. This is the first major injury for me, so I had nothing to compare to. I'll never be 100%, but I'm happy to be as much as I am. Life can go on.


----------



## retired_guru

*Benchtop Moxon Vice*



















My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.

Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:










- In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.

- If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!










- I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.



















- The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.

- Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.










- I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.





































I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.

All I have left to do is apply some BLO.

If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.


That vice looks like it can handle anything you can throw at it Paul. Nicely done!!


----------



## DonBroussard

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.


Well done, Paul. When the vice's moving jaw is extended, or when it has a heavy item clamped in the jaw, is it tippy? It looks like the table to which it's clamped is a little shallow, but it may just be the perspective of the last photo.


----------



## Buck_Thorne

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.


Wow! Clamp up a piece of coal in that thing and sell the diamond that comes out! That thing is heavy duty!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.





> That vice looks like it can handle anything you can throw at it Paul. Nicely done!!
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks. I sure hope so! Looking forward to doing some joinery on it, as soon as I finish the workshop projects in progress.

- Paul


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.





> Well done, Paul. When the vice s moving jaw is extended, or when it has a heavy item clamped in the jaw, is it tippy? It looks like the table to which it s clamped is a little shallow, but it may just be the perspective of the last photo.
> 
> - Don Broussard


Thanks, Don.

The reason for your question, of course, with the exception of one older test picture, is I didn't secure the vice to either of the benches when took these pictures. So yes, if I don't bolt it to the bench it *will* tip over if I open up the vice while the jaws overhang the edge of the bench. The smaller bench already has threaded holes made to mount it in one of two positions. I still have to drill and thread the holes for the other one.

The shallowness you are addressing is just the way the pictures came out. On either bench I can slide it back and the hardware doesn't overhang, and slide it forward to allow for a tall board to clamp in and touch the floor.

Having test secured it on the smaller bench I can tell you, without question, it is secure and you can put a lot of weight on the extended jaw without movement.

- Paul


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.





> Wow! Clamp up a piece of coal in that thing and sell the diamond that comes out! That thing is heavy duty!
> 
> - Buck_Thorne


Haha! If only!


----------



## DonBroussard

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.


Thanks for the added information, Paul. I figured you had addressed any balance issues.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.





> Thanks for the added information, Paul. I figured you had addressed any balance issues.
> 
> - Don Broussard


You're most welcome, Don. Thanks for bringing it up.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Benchtop Moxon Vice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My latest addition is a portable benchtop Moxon vice, something I've had in my mind to do for some time. I based this build on Jay Bate's *Sliding Moxon* design. Several changes were made to accommodate my needs and workspace limitations. Mine is several inches shorter, a half inch taller, uses 3/4" pipe and clamp fittings, and some other variations or changes made to improve upon his original design.
> 
> Here are some of the mods I made and realizations after having built the unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In retrospect, the narrower width of the jaws in my build, compared to Jay's, could have allowed for a reduction in number of 3/4" plywood planks used-from four (3" thick) to three (2-1/4" thick)-without sacrificing overall strength. No way these are going to flex with normal use, so retrospection doesn't negate its value as-is.
> 
> - If I had to make this again, or something similar (i.e, thick laminated jaws), I would drill the holes in each plank, line them up in gluing together. I didn't catch this until after I had laminated. What a PITA it was to drill 3" holes with my benchtop drill press!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I didn't bother chamfering the jaws for looks, as Jay did. Sure, it looks like it could hold a 2-ton car in its jaws, because of its massive block-like shape, but the proximity of the Yost jaws to the top edge of the front jaw left me unwilling to take a chance in looks-over-function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - The rear cast iron clutches won't sit flat against the rear jaw when clamping force isn't applied, so I drilled a couple of holes in each and screwed to the jaw. This not only solved the problem, it reduced a fair amount of unwanted slop in the vice. Jay's method was to use double-sided carpet take, which wouldn't have stuck to the pine plywood face.
> 
> - Jay included an open box in his design, to maximize use of otherwise wasted space, as well as create a brace for the rear jaw. I added a lid made from scrap to keep sawdust and shavings out. The hinges came from a local dollar store. Yeah, way too flashy for such a build, but for a buck…got use them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I settled on a three-point mounting method to the workbench: three slots, one on each side and one down the middle. For now I am using course threaded lag bolts as-is. In the future I will make up wood handles for each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be able to use this on more than one bench in my shop-hence the narrower width. I've shown it here on two of the benches it will spend most of its time on.
> 
> All I have left to do is apply some BLO.
> 
> If you are interested in building something similar, the cost for a pair of Yost 3/4" clamps is about $11.00 USD on Amazon. I paid about $10.00 USD for a 30" black pipe. Jay's build was accomplished in a 48" x 48" sheet of 3/4" of Baltic Birch plywood. I used what I had, which was interior general use pine. The rest you should already have in your shop or can find at your local Big Box Store.


UPDATE

Earlier today I got around to making the threaded holes on the second bench, but this time added bees wax to the threads on the modified bolt (I make a long groove with a triangular file to make it into a tap) before cutting into the holes. I also added a little to each of the regular bolts. What a difference. Now when I use the mechanics speed wrench and 3/4" socket, the bolts zip in and out very fast. Only a light snugging down with the speed wrench makes the vice unmovable on the bench.

I haven't gotten around to applying BLO. I'm may end up chamfering the forward most four edges of the front jaw.


----------



## retired_guru

*Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*

A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.

Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.

Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.

On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.

Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.


----------



## shawnSK

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.


I saw these in a Lee Valley catalogue the other day and almost ordered them. How are they for getting your hand around to lock down and release them? I thought maybe the bench would get in the way too much?


----------



## olbigun

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.


SHAWN, c the extra little lever under/on at the end the top handle, that is the easy release of/for the clamping action.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.





> I saw these in a Lee Valley catalogue the other day and almost ordered them. How are they for getting your hand around to lock down and release them? I thought maybe the bench would get in the way too much?
> 
> - shawnSK


No more difficult to operate than any other pair of channel-lock pliers. Same mechanism.

I took a look at what Lee Valley's offering in the same. Theirs has a more refined finish on the outside, but otherwise looks identical in design to the Harbor Freight units I bought. Big price point difference, of course.


----------



## Foghorn

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.


I have one of these from an unknown supplier that I picked up 10 years or so ago. I use it on my drill press and it's great. It only engages about two threads or so when used with a drill press table. Definitely doesn't work on my workbench due to thickness.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.





> I have one of these from an unknown supplier that I picked up 10 years or so ago. I use it on my drill press and it s great. It only engages about two threads or so when used with a drill press table. Definitely doesn t work on my workbench due to thickness.
> 
> - Foghorn


Yes, these won't work on any thick bench top designed to work with traditional holdfasts, not 'as is'.


----------



## shawnSK

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.


Good points about the thickness. My bench is just a Workmate for now, so these seem like a decent holdfast alternative. And Paul, thanks for your comments too. $25 seems to be the going rate for them in Canada, if you can find them (not many hardware stores stock them), but your comment had me look around a bit more and I see Princess Auto sells them for less. Not as refined, but available locally, so that's a win!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.





> Good points about the thickness. My bench is just a Workmate for now, so these seem like a decent holdfast alternative. And Paul, thanks for your comments too. $25 seems to be the going rate for them in Canada, if you can find them (not many hardware stores stock them), but your comment had me look around a bit more and I see Princess Auto sells them for less. Not as refined, but available locally, so that s a win!
> 
> - shawnSK


Great, Shawn. I hope those offered at Princess Auto turn out to be a helpful addition on the Workmate.


----------



## JCinVA

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.


Great idea for my workmates!

Did yours come with the red protectors? The HF website shows just the metal head with checkering.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Using Drill Press Clamps in Workbench Dog Holes*
> 
> A while ago I was at a Harbor Freight store picking up some 6" F-clamps when I came across their *Pittsburgh 9" Drill Press Locking Clamps*. An idea came to mind, so I picked up two at the price of $8.99 each. Sure enough, when I got home and tried them out in the dog holes on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench, they fit perfectly. I've recently drilled out the dog holes to the standard 3/4" size, and they still work just as well.
> 
> Obviously, the threaded ends aren't very long, more than adequate for the thin top on the HF workbench, and you have to be able to get to the underside of the top to work the eye nuts, which isn't a problem for this workbench. The threads are course, so spinning the eye nuts on and off is a breeze, very fast in fact. You'd be surprised at how quickly these clamps can be put into service and put away when done.
> 
> Clamping pressure is quite adequate. One of these applied to 5/4 oak board seen in the picture was enough to make the whole bench move when trying to budge the board.
> 
> On the apron opposite the end vice I have a twin hat hook, where I store the clamps when not needed.
> 
> Of course, you don't need to own a HF Windsor workbench to capitalized on this tip. Any accessible bench or table top, B&D Workmates, etc., with a top thickness no greater than the threaded ends will work.





> Great idea for my workmates!
> 
> Did yours come with the red protectors? The HF website shows just the metal head with checkering.
> 
> - JCinVA


I forgot about the C-clamp jaw pads! No, the drill press clamps come without the protective pads on. I had bought them previously, to use on F-Clamps that were given to me. Here's the link to them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pairs-c-clamp-jaw-pads-91952.html?_br_psugg_q=clamp+pads


----------



## retired_guru

*Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*

I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).

------










The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.

The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.

The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.

The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.


Good suggesting using pop sticks *techno'*... I used 3mm MDF, however, with the thinner pieces you get better "precision".


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> Good suggesting using pop sticks *techno *... I used 3mm MDF, however, with the thinner pieces you get better "precision".
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


MDF? I wouldn't have thought that thin a slice of MDF would be sturdy enough. Interesting. Thanks for letting me know.

By the way, I used tongue depressors, not Popsicle sticks. A box of these is really cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Dynarex-Tongue-Depressor-Senior-Non-Sterile/dp/B0011Z82YO/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=box+of+tongue+depressors&qid=1582931918&sr=8-4

I bought mine locally. It wasn't much.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> .... I used tongue depressors, not Popsicle sticks…..
> - technoslick


Kind of guessed something like that. Couldn't remember *… depressors* hence the *… in cheek* statement of popsickles.
On hindsight, popsicle sticks would have been subjected to swelling and could be compressed, mucking up your accurate *by the eye* tolerance measurements…

Also 3mm MDF could still be subject to about a 1.5mm racking still, compared to the depressor…

Hmm, thinking of SWMBO… where do you get *tongue suppressors*... *ugh*, now quickly preparing for a slap across the back of the head if she stumbles across this comment…

*PS.* Where the hell do you get a bolt long enough to go through 500 tongue depressors… and don't try to tell me you put the unused ones into your scrap bin!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> ... MDF? I wouldn t have thought that thin a slice of MDF would be sturdy enough….
> - technoslick


I used 100mm x 50mm x 3mm MDF pieces which were well and truly sturdy enough,









But just on simple maths, 19mm and 25mm stock already had an unavoidable 1mm rack and the 3mm thickness made for unacceptable tolerances… though better than nothing…

Finished up surrendering to my dark side and getting the Woodpecker*$* Vi*$*e *$*hims for a tad more than tongue depressors,









though it's thickness range is exceptional.

Damn… If you had posted this 3 years ago you would have save me quite a few shekels… even if I bought those *Magnum ice-creams* to feather out my popsicle collection.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> *PS.* Where the hell do you get a bolt long enough to go through 500 tongue depressors… and don t try to tell me you put the unused ones into your scrap bin!
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Heh. You buy one box, which has enough spares (for when they break off) for your lifetime. Then you will what's left to your grandkids when you die.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> Finished up surrendering to my dark side and getting the Woodpecker*$* Vi*$*e *$*hims for a tad more than tongue depressors,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though it s thickness range is exceptional.
> 
> Damn… If you had posted this 3 years ago you would have save me quite a few shekels… even if I bought those *Magnum ice-creams* to feather out my popsicle collection.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


It's my frugal nature to make a sour face toward expensive "quality" that exceeds my abilities ten fold. But I also am one that believes "to each his or her own." Since you would have taken the cheaper alternative had you known about the tongue depressors, I stand guilty and await your punishment. <crosses>


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> ... I stand guilty and await your *punishment*.
> - technoslick


Far too many innocent statements have been made by the unwary… 
I shall turn my *tongue suppressors* into kindling (for the upcoming bonfire) and unleash SWMBO on your home page….
I suggest you start your penance… NOW!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Variable Thickness Anti-Racking Gadget*
> 
> I probably already posted this find a long time back. For those who are not inclined to sift through a hundred or more blog entries to find out, here it is again. It's a cheap, very useful tip, and I think worth mentioning (~ again).
> 
> ------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end vice on my Harbor Freight Windsor workbench racks whenever I clamp a board off center in the jaws. I found (I can't remember where) this easy to make gadget that works perfectly at eliminating racking.
> 
> The length of the 1/4" bolt used should reflect the maximum width of a board you would ever mount into your vice. I used the longest bolt I had at the time, a 4-1/2" carriage bolt. Obviously, a hex or Allen key head bolt would be a preferable alternative to what I used, and I would suggest using one nylon locknut instead of locking together two standard nuts.
> 
> The only tricky aspect in making this is getting the holes drilled in the tongue depressors without tear out and cracking the thin wood. I made a simple jig to hold several atop of each other while I used the drill press to bore the holes. That worked okay, but I did spit a couple of stick in the process. A box of a hundred of these is dirt cheap, but I'm thinking a better method would be to sandwich one or two sticks between two hardboard templates, clamping the ensemble down to the drill press table, then drilling. The clamping is necessary because you will find that tongue depressors come in all manners of twist, bow and cup.
> 
> The one shown in the pictures is at least a few years old. I've only broken two sticks since I made it.





> ... I stand guilty and await your *punishment*.
> - technoslick
> 
> Far too many innocent statements have been made by the unwary…
> I shall turn my *tongue suppressors* into kindling (for the upcoming bonfire) and unleash SWMBO on your home page….
> I suggest you start your penance… NOW!
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


<laughs>

<runs>


----------



## retired_guru

*3 Dollar Saws*










The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!

Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.

Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.


----------



## JCinVA

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.


Looking forward to the update.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.





> Looking forward to the update.
> 
> - JCinVA


Thanks. I hope to start on cleaning these up later this week. Sharpening will probably have to wait until I finish construction and organizing in the workshop.


----------



## TraditionallySpeakin

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.


If you have a large enough shallow container you could give those a soak for about 3-12 hours in vinegar and that rust will rub off with your finger and a toothbrush. You can then save the vinegar and use it over and over again. Some people don't know this so I thought it was worth a mention!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.





> If you have a large enough shallow container you could give those a soak for about 3-12 hours in vinegar and that rust will rub off with your finger and a toothbrush. You can then save the vinegar and use it over and over again. Some people don't know this so I thought it was worth a mention!
> 
> - TraditionallySpeakin


I did know! But I'm glad you reminded me of it here. Some don't know, too.

I don't have a plastic container of a size that would work without wasting a *lot* of vinegar. More important to me and the wife is the lack venting in the workshop this time of year. If I get frustrated or substandard results other ways, I may put off cleaning these up until the weather allows for all 24-hour venting.


----------



## TraditionallySpeakin

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.





> I did know! But I m glad you reminded me of it here. Some don t know, too.
> 
> I don t have a plastic container of a size that would work without wasting a *lot* of vinegar. More important to me and the wife is the lack venting in the workshop this time of year. If I get frustrated or substandard results other ways, I may put off cleaning these up until the weather allows for all 24-hour venting.
> 
> - technoslick


I loathe the smell and taste of vinegar but it is certainly useful!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.





> I loathe the smell and taste of vinegar but it is certainly useful!
> 
> - TraditionallySpeakin


Heh. Tell me about it. My wife can *many* jars of various types of pickles every year. We have to open all the windows and I have to stay in the workshop until she is done. I can't take it. Doesn't bother her. I do wonder if my sensitivity to acetic acid is because of working in an Aspirin manufacturing plant when I was a young man. Didn't bother me then.


----------



## TraditionallySpeakin

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.





> Heh. Tell me about it. My wife can *many* jars of various types of pickles every year. We have to open all the windows and I have to stay in the workshop until she is done. I can t take it. Doesn t bother her. I do wonder if my sensitivity to acetic acid is because of working in an Aspirin manufacturing plant when I was a young man. Didn t bother me then.
> 
> - technoslick


Oh man, we can pickles as well and my god the smell of hot vinegar is horrific. Do they use acetic acid in the manufacture of aspirin? I worked at a cidery for a period of time and we were working on a batch of vinegar once. Oh my.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *3 Dollar Saws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day I answered a Pennysaver ad for a bunch of hand saws selling for $3.00 each. He told me over the phone he had over 30 of them for sale. When I got there he apologized for the wrong count: 67 saws!
> 
> Many had warped, bent and/or dented plates, especially along the teeth, and were quite rusty, with a few exceptions. I found two rip saws and a back saw that had flat plates and spine, respectively. Since taking this picture, I've run all three saws through pine lumber. I was surprised at how sharp all three were, especially the large rips. If it wasn't for the rust binding in the kerf they would be ready for action. I suspect the back saw to be a tenon saw, by the look of the teeth and the way it handled going through the grain better than across, filed for ripping.
> 
> Some time next week I will remove the handles, work out the rust, and recondition the handles. I may be able to get away with just touching up the teeth with a file.





> Oh man, we can pickles as well and my god the smell of hot vinegar is horrific. Do they use acetic acid in the manufacture of aspirin? I worked at a cidery for a period of time and we were working on a batch of vinegar once. Oh my.
> 
> - TraditionallySpeakin


The making of Aspirin:
"In this laboratory exercise, you can prepare aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) from salicylic acid and acetic anhydride using the following reaction:

salicylic acid (C7H6O3) + acetic anhydride (C4H6O3) → acetylsalicylic acid (C9H8O4) + acetic acid (C2H4O2)"

Even though we wore heavy rubberized gloves, the crystals and acids would attach exposed areas of skin. It was common for me to be able to peel away a layer of skin off the inside of my wrists just by rubbing gently. Came off like a layer of onion skin. What we breathed in…


----------



## retired_guru

*Simple, Efficient Wall Rack for Hand Wood Screws*










I finished building and mounting this evening a rack to hold my hand wood screws. Of the designs I found on the Web, and in the mags I own, the horizontal beam configuration was the most storage efficient for the space it has to occupy.

I'm now completely out of wall space to mount anything on.

Of course, we all know that no good turn goes without its appropriate rewards, right?

"Hun, I need to buy more hand wood screws…"


----------



## retired_guru

*Kicking Excuses to the Curb*

It's been a month since my last post, and unlike previous lengthy periods between posts, this time it's because of diligent effort to re-organize the dungeon workshop. As of this writing, I'm close to 90% complete, that being really 'almost done', to where I can say all my tools, supplies, and equipment, are put away with some hope of finding everything when needed. The North room off the main workspace makes up the bulk of that 10 percent when I get there. Fortunately, it's an area that doesn't need to be tamed for the workshop to be where I need and want it to be.

I'm sure most of you have experienced the 'sliding puzzle' problem, where you have a finite space that is smaller than all the contents within, and therefore you must 'slide' the excess around as you work to find the means to neatly pack everything in its place. Last summer, when I came to realize I wasn't going to be a hopeless cripple, I made important changes in the way I viewed my existence. *Procrastination*, and can't, were put on notice, and since then I've been kicking both to the curb at every possible opportunity, and with extreme prejudice. Once the winter arrived, the last open project completed, I focused my time in the dungeon solely on re-organizing. I built simple cabinets from the over-abundance of marketing paneling I acquired for free from a local Big Box Store. I made every attempt to incorporate the stockpile of lumber on hand before buying materials, all of which has to be gone before our relocation to a new home in the near future. And as I started off, I'd get one small section of the workshop organized, to end up making a mess in 9 other places around the shop. It's been frustrating, but you know over time, subtly at first, it becomes apparent that the mess made becomes smaller in size with each new project completed. I guess that has been the best true sign of progress for me, and it has pushed me forward when I have felt overwhelmed and wanted to quit.

I plan on posting several pics of the results when I reach that magic '90 percent'. No point doing so until I do. Should be soon, though, as early as next week or the week after. I have a time table to adhere to. It won't be long before the weather allows for the dungeon to be vented to the outside while bringing in fresh air. That will be the time to start work on home renovations, furniture making, and finding all manner of notion on how best to use up all the scraps that have been multiplying in the dungeon since last fall. For once, it's a race I think I can win. Take that, *Procrastination*. Can't is no longer a part of my vocabulary.


----------



## retired_guru

*Polypropylene Router Table Runners*

Recently I purchased a Rockler Box Joint Jig with the intent on using it in either of the two router tables in my workshop. The newer Ryobi has standard 3/4" W x 3/8" D slots, but the older entry-level Blue Hawk (commonly sold at Lowe's) table has 5/8" wide slots. The Rockler jig comes with runners to fit only the standard size slot. So I knew going into this purchase I would be making new runners, and if it worked, out of polypropylene strips I had cut from new cutting boards bought for this purpose.










The cutting board had been previously ripped a few years ago to ~ 3/4" wide strips, intended for use in table saw jigs. The were too thick as well as too wide for the Blue Hawk slots, so I mounted a strip in my benchtop Moxon vice and used a Stanley No. 6 plane to re-dimension height and width.










If you haven't hand planed polypropylene before, the difference over planing wood is in the need to use even, steady downward pressure on both the toe knob and rear tote or the plane will skip. You don't need a lot of momentum, as in with hard woods. A slow, even push does it, giving some pretty cool shavings.



















Once dimensioned, I first replaced the super sloppy aluminum bar in the miter gauge. Polypropylene is less dense than HDPE, and will try to deform before splitting. It took a couple of tries to get the holes the right diameter to hold the bolt threads.










Unlike the miter gauge, which works best with a smooth sliding runner, the Rockler jig needs its runners to expand in the slot to clamp itself to the table. It took a few designs to find the right length and reliefs holes for the bolt head to expand the plastic for a tight grip in the slot.










Conclusion:
The miter gauge slides smoothly in the slot and has no play. With steel threads seated in soft plastic, there's no doubt they will eventually loosen and enlarge the holes. Still, I was surprised at the amount of torque I could but on the gauge without altering its setting.










It appears to me the runners on the jig will work just fine on the Blue Hawk table. I have enough polypropylene to make many more runners as they wear out, at an original investment for the cutting board of around $6.00. More important is that I can use this jig on a table it wasn't designed for and marketed to fit. For me, a win-win.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Polypropylene Router Table Runners*
> 
> Recently I purchased a Rockler Box Joint Jig with the intent on using it in either of the two router tables in my workshop. The newer Ryobi has standard 3/4" W x 3/8" D slots, but the older entry-level Blue Hawk (commonly sold at Lowe's) table has 5/8" wide slots. The Rockler jig comes with runners to fit only the standard size slot. So I knew going into this purchase I would be making new runners, and if it worked, out of polypropylene strips I had cut from new cutting boards bought for this purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting board had been previously ripped a few years ago to ~ 3/4" wide strips, intended for use in table saw jigs. The were too thick as well as too wide for the Blue Hawk slots, so I mounted a strip in my benchtop Moxon vice and used a Stanley No. 6 plane to re-dimension height and width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you haven't hand planed polypropylene before, the difference over planing wood is in the need to use even, steady downward pressure on both the toe knob and rear tote or the plane will skip. You don't need a lot of momentum, as in with hard woods. A slow, even push does it, giving some pretty cool shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dimensioned, I first replaced the super sloppy aluminum bar in the miter gauge. Polypropylene is less dense than HDPE, and will try to deform before splitting. It took a couple of tries to get the holes the right diameter to hold the bolt threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike the miter gauge, which works best with a smooth sliding runner, the Rockler jig needs its runners to expand in the slot to clamp itself to the table. It took a few designs to find the right length and reliefs holes for the bolt head to expand the plastic for a tight grip in the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> The miter gauge slides smoothly in the slot and has no play. With steel threads seated in soft plastic, there's no doubt they will eventually loosen and enlarge the holes. Still, I was surprised at the amount of torque I could but on the gauge without altering its setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to me the runners on the jig will work just fine on the Blue Hawk table. I have enough polypropylene to make many more runners as they wear out, at an original investment for the cutting board of around $6.00. More important is that I can use this jig on a table it wasn't designed for and marketed to fit. For me, a win-win.


Nice mod Paul.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Polypropylene Router Table Runners*
> 
> Recently I purchased a Rockler Box Joint Jig with the intent on using it in either of the two router tables in my workshop. The newer Ryobi has standard 3/4" W x 3/8" D slots, but the older entry-level Blue Hawk (commonly sold at Lowe's) table has 5/8" wide slots. The Rockler jig comes with runners to fit only the standard size slot. So I knew going into this purchase I would be making new runners, and if it worked, out of polypropylene strips I had cut from new cutting boards bought for this purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cutting board had been previously ripped a few years ago to ~ 3/4" wide strips, intended for use in table saw jigs. The were too thick as well as too wide for the Blue Hawk slots, so I mounted a strip in my benchtop Moxon vice and used a Stanley No. 6 plane to re-dimension height and width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you haven't hand planed polypropylene before, the difference over planing wood is in the need to use even, steady downward pressure on both the toe knob and rear tote or the plane will skip. You don't need a lot of momentum, as in with hard woods. A slow, even push does it, giving some pretty cool shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once dimensioned, I first replaced the super sloppy aluminum bar in the miter gauge. Polypropylene is less dense than HDPE, and will try to deform before splitting. It took a couple of tries to get the holes the right diameter to hold the bolt threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike the miter gauge, which works best with a smooth sliding runner, the Rockler jig needs its runners to expand in the slot to clamp itself to the table. It took a few designs to find the right length and reliefs holes for the bolt head to expand the plastic for a tight grip in the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> The miter gauge slides smoothly in the slot and has no play. With steel threads seated in soft plastic, there's no doubt they will eventually loosen and enlarge the holes. Still, I was surprised at the amount of torque I could but on the gauge without altering its setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to me the runners on the jig will work just fine on the Blue Hawk table. I have enough polypropylene to make many more runners as they wear out, at an original investment for the cutting board of around $6.00. More important is that I can use this jig on a table it wasn't designed for and marketed to fit. For me, a win-win.


Thanks, Lee. I hope to give the jig a test run in a week or so. Still finishing up on the reorg in the shop. I'm finding all sorts of stuff I had long forgotten I had!


----------



## retired_guru

*Match-Making: Ryobi Benchtop Router Table & HF 2 HP Fixed-Base Router*

A while back I acquired a Harbor Freight 2 HP single-speed fixed-base router and a variable-speed control. Yesterday I decided to see if the Ryobi face plate would mate with the HP router.

Because the screws that came with the table were either too long or too short, I had to make a trip to Lowe's for the M5-.80×12 mm screws needed. All they had were 16 mm. I didn't want to delay this project with an online order, so I added the HF base and used some longer screws that came with the table.

The HF plate worked, but I felt it was too thick and obstructed the router's ability to use a wide cutting bit. I made a ring spacer from some 3/32" fiber board and used the 16 mm screws I had bought. This appeared to me to be a usable compromise.










Double-side industrial tape was used to mount the speed control to a scrap of particle board, and the board to a metal table leg. A spot was picked to work with the really short power cord that comes with the table's power switch.










The speed control appears to transition well from low to high speed. I've heard some say that routers lose a lot of torque when dialed down. Soon I have to make some half-sash window replacements. That will be a good test for this setup.


----------



## retired_guru

*Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*

Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.

A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…

The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.










Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.










Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.










Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.










The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.










I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.










I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.










I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.




























The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.










Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!


----------



## lightweightladylefty

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*
> 
> Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.
> 
> A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…
> 
> The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!


Paul,

When you're done there, you're invited to organize ours!!

L/W


----------



## splintergroup

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*
> 
> Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.
> 
> A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…
> 
> The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!


That is a mountain of work you've accomplished! I've tried several times and have yet to succeed, the stuff just keeps collecting 8^)

The biggest problem is now the perfect piece of scrap you need for your current project is at the back/bottom of the pile!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*
> 
> Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.
> 
> A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…
> 
> The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!





> When you re done there, you re invited to organize ours!!
> 
> L/W
> 
> - lightweightladylefty


No thank you! This obsessive concern with tidying up the workspace is both necessary and part of my weight loss plan. It's working. Of course, I'll have to do this all over again soon enough.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*
> 
> Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.
> 
> A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…
> 
> The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!





> That is a mountain of work you've accomplished! I've tried several times and have yet to succeed, the stuff just keeps collecting 8^)
> 
> The biggest problem is now the perfect piece of scrap you need for your current project is at the back/bottom of the pile!
> 
> - splintergroup


All so true. In my situation, I had accumulated a lot of pallet wood and discarded lumber over the past few years, and with just about that much down-time due to recovery from a serious injury, much of the lumber had warped beyond practical use. The scraps piles had grown a lot since I became active last summer, mostly from the renovations I'd made in the workshop. But yeah, a lot of work-my body aches are proof.

So you have already encountered the magical board at the bottom of the stack dilemma?


----------



## shawnSK

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*
> 
> Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.
> 
> A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…
> 
> The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!


Finally caught up on your dungeon overhaul from the beginning of your blog. It looks great!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Lumber and Cut-Offs Reorganization*
> 
> Since my father passed on last summer, I've been cleaning out, clearing out, and reorganizing the dungeon workshop. I've made shop cabinets, added drawers to benches, made some carts, sorted fasteners and supplies. As I have mentioned already, it has been like playing with a Rubik cube, a sliding puzzle, where I've had to shuffle stuff around to make progress in any one area of the shop. I've accomplished a lot-my wife keeps telling me I have-and I do feel as if I am very close to being finished.
> 
> A major accomplishment has been the sorting/reorganizing of lumber and cut-offs I had stored in the basement and on both back porches. What a difference between now and the way it was before. I have a '95 Ford F-150 XLT with a full size bed filled to the top with the lumber to be taken to the landfill. This is what I kept…
> 
> The North room is the final frontier in the workshop. I hope to have the room completely resolved by the end of this month. I made a rack several years ago. Now I have stacked on it the cut-offs and small boards that survived the Great Purge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smaller cut-offs were placed in plastic containers. I was happy to see an old 5.25" floppy disk container be useful again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particle board and plywood are temporarily stacked against the side of the drill presses bench until I reorganize the two sheet goods racks-pictures later on in this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some smaller plywood pieces are temporarily in an plastic crate. The grooved poplar boards in the blue Lowe's bucket were salvaged from an old bureau I disassembled a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main rack wasn't designed well, nor large enough to hold and access all the long boards I had. I took everything off the rack and extended the arms. The left side of the rack (as you are looking at it in this picture) gives up to 10' of support on the bottom shelf, 8' on the 2nd and 3rd shelves, and about 4' on the top one. The right side of the 2nd and 3rd shelves supports about 4'. The longest two-buys sticking out of the left side of the bottom most shelf are 12' white oak pallet runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find I had this many 4' pallet runners. I guess I will be making a lot of flower pot wheelbarrows and plant stands! (You can find pictures of these back in this blog.) I'll have to make a rack for these…somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited this bamboo collection from my late father. I've used some already in our garden, but I think there has to be a creative use for them in woodworking projects, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used up half of the cast-out 8' long 5/8" melamine I acquired from Lowe's a couple of years ago to build shop cabinets and drawers. The East and West racks are in need of reassigning and some cleaning out. I'll start on that today or tomorrow. For now, the stuff is out of my way and no longer under foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last rack is outside of the workshop, on a built-up landing underneath a stairway inside the back entrance. I've pulled some pieces out of the stash recently, so it needs to be reorganized, and I'm sure some of the boards will need to be discarded from adverse wood movement over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting there. I can see the light at the end of the..dungeon!





> Finally caught up on your dungeon overhaul from the beginning of your blog. It looks great!
> 
> - shawnSK


Thanks, Shawn. By then end of this week I will be taking pictures of the dungeon and posting them here. Nothing to brag about, other than I will finally be able to find and use what's in it. I'm itching to get at the work that's waiting for me.


----------



## retired_guru

*Working "Clean"*

My previous post was about the complete re-organization of lumber and cut-offs in and around my dungeon workshop. I call it a 'dungeon' because of the several issues I have with it, and the compromises or extra lengths I have to go through to equal what many of my peers take for granted in their own workshops.

My workshop is the basement of my 120 year old home, poorly constructed (in my opinion), showing its age more than it should. There isn't a flat spot of concrete floor in the workshop, nor any patches that are co-planar with each other. The Southwest end of the main workspace floor slopes a good 5 or more degrees to the East, and overall, all the concrete is breaking up so badly that even rolling large diameter casters on it requires a lot of tugging and pushing. A good fifth of the square footage is unuseable due to the age-old accumulation of coal dust-an old coal bin in its day. Ceilings are low enough that I can touch the floor joists above without effort, and I'm always banging projects, lumber, and my flipped up face shield, against asbestos covered water pipes. The list of compromises is long, but hey, it's still home-for now. Had the COVID-19 outbreak not been happening, we would be in a serious search for a new home, and maybe closing on one at this time. Until this is possible (and safely practical), I'm making due with what I have to work with.

Which brings me to the topic of this post. An article in an email I received today sparked my interest in creating this blog entry. It's a good read, although I will be the first to mention I have some issues with some of it recommendations-scraps, for one:

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/04/08/the-importance-of-working-clean

My version of 'working clean' is now, and will continue to be, a top priority in this workshop. Between the arachnids and the asbestos, the concrete dust and hundred-plus year old timbers, and my general allergies around wood dust, I have to wear a P100 respirator (chemical cartridges when working with VOCs) every time I use or do a dust-producing process. My allergies are such that even a good does of unfiltered pine dust will cause a severe reaction that lays me out for the better part of a day. It's uncomfortable working for hours with a half-mask and face shield on, but there isn't any cost effective way for me to get around this situation in this environment. For this reason alone, working with hand tools is a first choice whenever practical. (More of a challenge is being on my feet for more than a couple of hours-this will be a forever thing.) And still I'm content to do this work, work with these materials, and under the dungeon's demanding conditions. I'm happiest in the shop when I can do what I want to do, create as I wish to and knowing I am not going to be suffering later on from what I have inhaled. Keeping my work area 'clean' makes this possible. It's an effort that will save my sanity now, potentially my health for years to come.

---

ADDENDUM
Recently I purchased a Jet Air-Filtration System that hangs from the ceiling. I had a spot earmarked for it when I was making the order. It turns out that spot won't work, so I'll be stressing some brain cells to the max to figure out where this monster can be mounted. Oh, the first-world problems…


----------



## retired_guru

*Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*


----------



## robscastle

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*


Oh yes been there done that still got the containers


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*





> Oh yes been there done that still got the containers
> 
> - robscastle


You survived the tedium. Hopefully I will, too. Such a PITA. >_>


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*


Wow Paul you are getting serious.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*





> Wow Paul you are getting serious.
> 
> - luv2learn


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*





> Wow Paul you are getting serious.
> 
> - luv2learn


Yeppers. Go Big or Go Home. Tired of the frustration and anxiety being disorganized causes me. Driving two miles to Lowe's or Wal-Mart for a couple of dollars worth of screws has to stop.


----------



## JCinVA

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*


Wow indeed. I need a better way to store and organize my 'collection' too. What brand containers are you using?


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*





> Wow indeed. I need a better way to store and organize my collection too. What brand containers are you using?
> 
> - JCinVA


Hyper Tough Interlocking Organizer 2-Pack, at our local Wal-Mart store. You can get the brand, I believe, on-line, though not sure if this is a Chinese brand of theirs or available elsewhere. I seem to remember seeing the brand on eBay. Around $9-$10 for a set of two. Here are some images taken from the website:


----------



## JCinVA

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*


Thanks Paul. Heading to Wal-Mart today so I'll see if the store has them in stock.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*





> Thanks Paul. Heading to Wal-Mart today so I ll see if the store has them in stock.
> 
> - JCinVA


Good luck finding them! They seem to be popular in my area, because they don't last long on the shelves. Let me know how they work out for you.


----------



## JCinVA

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*


Yes, they must be popular here too. Wal-Mart online shows a 2-pack at one store in the area, so I'll keep checking next week.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Seeds for Insanity: Sorting Screws, Bolts, Nuts, Washers...*





> Yes, they must be popular here too. Wal-Mart online shows a 2-pack at one store in the area, so I ll keep checking next week.
> 
> - JCinVA


You should be able to order on the Wal-Mart website and have it shipped to your home, or to the store closest to you for pickup. My experience with our local store is that the manager will only keep in stock what he/she thinks is a money maker, regardless of what actually moves on the shelves. I know that the main reason for this is the inevitable gradual downsizing we've been experiencing over the years. At any rate, most of the time Wal-Mart's pricing is on par with Amazon's, or notably less. Shorter shipping times than Amazon right now, too. When you do get some in, post your feedback and tag me in. Thanks.


----------



## retired_guru

*Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*

I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.


----------



## Pixxture

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.


I am having a similar problem with different shipper from amazon. Amazon has something called an A-Z guarantee.
Yesterday I was offered a refund, by Amazon under that guarantee . Have seen nothing credited to my account yet, but I hope it works.
Glad you got your money refunded.


----------



## MadMark

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.


Web automation remains up even if a business is closed with no-one in shipping or in admin to "communicate" with you. It's like complaining that the radio station isn't broadcasting a message saying that they're "off the air".

You got your $$ back so the system worked. You only waited *ONE* day before complaining and it was resolved without loss.

Geeze, cut the rest of the world a little slack.


----------



## sfcommericial

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.


Endless delays due to Covid! Ugh!

#beenthere

Hope things start showing up!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.


[/QUOTE]



> I am having a similar problem with different shipper from amazon. Amazon has something called an A-Z guarantee.
> Yesterday I was offered a refund, by Amazon under that guarantee . Have seen nothing credited to my account yet, but I hope it works.
> Glad you got your money refunded.
> 
> - Pixxture


Unfortunately, this purchase didn't qualify for the Amazon A-Z Guarantee. I think this is the first purchase I've made, at least that I was aware of making, without Amazon backing it up, and I've had a returns/refunds made during the COVID-19 lockdown. In your case, I'm sure Amazon will take care of you quickly.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.





> Endless delays due to Covid! Ugh!
> 
> #beenthere
> 
> Hope things start showing up!
> 
> - sfcommericial


I've been quite surprised at how fast vendors have processed and shipped my orders in this crisis, especially on eBay. This is the first time there hasn't been a line of communication when fulfillment can't be met by the projected time. I was most surprised that Amazon didn't even know Powertec hadn't shipped. But they sure could take the money.


----------



## WoodenDreams

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.


Can be a 'cross your fingers game' sometimes. I ordered a Rikon lathe this morning, Knowing the Rikon Distribution Center is close til at least May 5th. I ordered it through Menards online site. I'm hoping that Menard's has one at their distribution center located in Eau Claire,Wi.. Could have gone through Rockler (not in stock) or on Amazon (who knows when it would arrive). Since Menards has a store three miles down the road, I can stop in and visit the customer service counter rather easy. Last year I ordered a part though Amazon and paid for next day delivery. It took twelves days. I did get a refund on the next day delivery charge. My customer didn't like the fact of a delayed time for a rush job I was doing for him.


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Powertec USA - USPS Settled, Sort of*
> 
> I received adequate correspondence and expedient crediting to find no need to keep the original post on record. I'm still annoyed that neither Powertec or the USPS are accepting blame in this matter. I'll leave it at that.





> Can be a cross your fingers game sometimes. I ordered a Rikon lathe this morning, Knowing the Rikon Distribution Center is close til at least May 5th. I ordered it through Menards online site. I m hoping that Menard s has one at their distribution center located in Eau Claire,Wi.. Could have gone through Rockler (not in stock) or on Amazon (who knows when it would arrive). Since Menards has a store three miles down the road, I can stop in and visit the customer service counter rather easy. Last year I ordered a part though Amazon and paid for next day delivery. It took twelves days. I did get a refund on the next day delivery charge. My customer didn t like the fact of a delayed time for a rush job I was doing for him.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


I've had the same happen to me over the course of my business years. Customers given or promised a completion date that comes and goes because of late or missing product deliveries can sometimes be quite upset with you, as if you had something to do with the product's tardiness. But there was most always some correspondence or update center that gave a description of what was going on, something to tell the customer.

In my case, Powertec notified both the Illinois Postal Service and Amazon that the product had been shipped from their store/warehouse on the 7th. USPS has it documented that the shipment was made, and never arrived at their facility. Amazon treated the order, and provided tracking information that changed several times over the course of the wait, that it was 'on route', later on that it had been delayed-twice! As a fellow woodworker on another forum I frequent said: 'they had enough personnel to take my money, but not enough to contact anyone that they couldn't/didn't actually ship?' This wasn't a lost shipment or that a common carrier lost it in transit problem.

A similar product from a competing company was available locally, at twice the price of this order and what it sold for on-line. It's no wonder why the order was made. Caught between a rock and hard place, this time around, and blind as a bat, for a time.


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## retired_guru

*Dungeon Workshop Walkaround Tour - Spring 2020*

I promised Shawn ( @shawnSK ) pictures of the workshop, once the reorganization was complete enough to get back to building projects. I'm not quite there, as you will see in this post, but close enough that I decided I wanted to do it, as an earmark for when I look back at where I've been and what's been done over time.

I moan and groan a lot about the limitations I deal with in this workshop, but for the amount of time I spend in it, and how far I have come along in dealing with my mild case of arachnophobia, I think it's more about the Sicilian in me-we just love to bitch, it's in our blood. I've impressed my wife over the past year, so there's that, too. But seriously, safety is what drives my concerns more than anything else. Allergies and ingesting micro-sized bad boys are no laughing matter. I've come to grips with the processes I need to adhere to.

Here is the criteria used in the reworking the dungeon workshop:

1) The use of lumber products already owned takes precedent over buying new, especially in regard to processed sheet goods I've had around for way too long and will not transport to our new home once we can get back to looking for one again.

2) Function far more important than design and visual appeal. Cabinets, carts, benches, wall coverings, holders, mounts, etc., etc., are all tools, not the end game. There isn't a flat, square, plumb area within this entire house, and the dungeon is the worst of it. You will see this in the pictures.

3) Speed. I have to get this project completed like yesterday. As good weather begins to roll in I have some major projects that need the workshop to be ready. Building what works takes precedent over building what promotes longevity in the build. The only shop constructs I will take with me to the new home are the unattached benches and what's on wheels, and even then I have accepted that if there's not a place for them in the new place they will be left behind.

4) While the intent is to place tools and equipment of a similar supporting theme together, I'm more concerned with easy access for often used tools and supplies, and being able to remember where I put said stuff. I can't stress this last point enough-bad memory!

The shape of the workshop isn't four sided. I tried to follow a path that will lead you around it in such a away that you can figure out it's dimensions. Consequently, it took quite a few pictures to capture it all. If you fall asleep or lose patience in the tour, you have my leave to take off. No harm. No foul on me.



You are now entering the Dungeon Workshop. Tall people must duck their heads. If your head breaks the overhead light bulb or fixture, you will be asked to pay for it.










Top Left: I have a 250 cfm vent fan replacement for the window. Helps in the months I can open a window on the opposite end of the shop.










Turning 180 degree to the right: Wall space is at a premium because of the field stone. A saw till would be preferable, if I had a place to put it. The work desk is cramped, but suffices for now. Underneath is my main compressor. You can't see it behind the hose reel.










Behind that corner wall space is an old oil tank. I made sure to allow air space to it and if really, really, REALLY necessary, a means to get to the blocked off window.










A spin back to the entrance way: My main clamp rack. I need more clamps!!!










To the right of the clamps: My main router table and dust collector for the North end of the workshop.










To the right of the router table area: our chest freezer. Funny story here. Before the COVID-19 outbreak, during the beginning of the clean-out and decision making on what to move and what to leave behind, we came to the conclusion that there was no way to get the chest freezer out of the basement without major deconstruction at the entrance of the workshop. It's quite old, so no great loss to leave it behind. But-it does get in the way.

I attached a dolly to the bottom of one of two stackable Craftsman storage bins. I can roll this around and out of the way quite easily. In the open area above it I will attempt to suspend from the floor joists a recently purchased Jet Air-Filtration System. I have to be careful, though. It moves up to 1,000 cfm, and there is the fryable asbestos to the left. A baffle may help. We'll see.

By the way, this is the North most end of the old coal bin, a space filled with rebar sticking out of the ground and lots and lost of coal dust mixed in with the dirt. Yippee!










The main lumber rack, recently redesigned and restocked, behind the drill press table. I have to find a place for the wood on the floor. (sigh)










Drill Press Table and and a view of how long some of the racks are. You can see I used drawers from an old bureau I recently deconstructed. Waste not, want not.










The view most often presented, looking South. The table saw stand was made a few months ago. A good choice in design and storage capacity, I've come to see. Regarding the DeWalt saw: the only time I miss its predecessor, the Hitachi C10FL is when I am cutting up large sheet goods. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy it and its much smaller footprint.










A closer look at the East side bench area.










More of the East wall, progressing South.










Southeast corner of the workshop. Yes, the cabinets are slanting back a bit. I used the wall framing that was there for many years. I would have had to do major renovation to work the wall over. It's a secure wall and cabinet mount. Moving on…










South wall bench area. Since taking this picture I have moved the small plastic drawer unit out and replaced it with new hand planes bought over the winter and not tuned up yet.










Around the corner of the South bench area is a small cubby area. You can see I found a home for the Hyper Tough parts containers. Underneath is a roll around flip-top cart that houses my DeWalt thickness planer. You are also looking at the South end dust collector unit.










You can see how damp the wall gets. Some old construction hanging from the wall, probably a good 70 or more years old. A sink used to be there, tapped into the sewer pipe long ago. I'm probably going to built a shelf or cabinet to sit atop of the metal shelf unit some time soon. On the floor: bamboo rods I inherited from Dad. I'm thinking to mount hooks in the joists above and rack them up above. We'll see.










The Harbor Freight midi-lathe with Excelsior extension attached. Above, a recently made wall rack for the cutting tools. The Kobalt wood chisels are squatters. They will be evicted soon.










I found a good use for these clear plastic folder units that hadn't been used in years. The only addition, for safety sake, was to mount a small metal "L" bracket beneath each to guard against brushing fingers against the carbide teeth sticking out of the front most shelf. Also, South most end of the old coal bin. In good weather I open up the screened window, a must when using the vent fan.










The next group of pictures are in the North room, still the wild, wild west, yet to be fully tamed…

The secondary storage rack for small cut-offs. I've recently posted this one. I use the air tank for tire inflation on the vehicles and bikes we own. The sheet metal feet offer a convenient wall mount using hooks on the wall.










Beyond the feet of the Kobalt Miter Saw Stand is a mixture of owned "junk" and what was already here 30 years ago. Once the weather allows for an open door I expect to tackle cleaning the area out. This is dirt floor area. Not sure there will be much value to the workshop once it's cleared out.










The resident before us was a carpenter, and he wasn't afraid to mix up what materials were on hand to make the shelf unit before you. Doors, chunks of firewood and tree trunks, iron railroad rails, nailed sticks, and more. All of that has to go.










This is where stuff gets put that doesn't have a home yet. This is small compared to what the pile looked like a few weeks ago. Patience, Paul. Patience.










Close the door to the North room and you have access to some racked air hose and extension cords.










I have a lot of volatiles that need to be placed into a fire-retardant cabinet.



















And this, ladies and gentlemen, concludes the tour. Watch your step as you exit the dungeon. Feel free to add whatever you can afford in the tip box at the exit. And be a good sport-nudge awake those who have fallen asleep on the floor. Thank you for coming! Come again soon!

The End


----------



## retired_guru

*Creamer and Sugar Bowl Carrier - Build Progress*

With the workshop mostly reorganized, I've started to get at projects already started and on my To-Do list. A simple project I had been putting off was a small carrier for our Nortake creamer and sugar bowl set. The design is similar to the one used in the salt and pepper mill carrier I made a few years back.

The design incorporates two different size boards glue together to give the top ledge look, which also simplifies the build process by using a hole in the top board to create a recess once the boards are laminated together. I've included the salt and pepper mill carrier pics. Both carriers will be side-by-side on our kitchen table.










I used red oak for this project, to match the wood used in the salt and pepper mill carrier. As with the previous project, the oak is from a pallet I deconstructed a few years back.

The holes made in the top board were of two different dimensions, both larger than the largest Forstner bit I owned. I bored a couple of holes large enough for a clean-cut jigsaw blade to fit and removed the waste accordingly. A little time on the oscillating sander cleaned up the circumferences.

It was at this point in the construction that I realized I didn't prepare for the chamfering of the holes to accommodate the sloped bottoms of the creamer and sugar bowl. There were only two options that made sense: 1) make a router template and use a trim router with a top bearing 45 degree bit to bevel the holes, 2) mark the dimensions for the chamfers and remove the waste with a rasp. I opted to use the rasp. I added a small indent for the creamer handle. When finished, the boards were joined with Titebond I PVA glue.










A pretty good fit. Should be just enough play to deal with humidity changes in the kitchen.










As long as the router was being shunned, I decided to use a block plane to create the 45 degree chamfers on the top edges. I knocked off the opposing corners before skewing the block plane across both ends to eliminate blow out.










I have to say, I was impressed with how well the first chamfer went, since I didn't make an effort to sharpen or hone the iron beforehand.










With all four chamfers done, sanding, sealing, and top coat finishing is left.










The salt and pepper mill carrier was finished with spray shellac. Because this carrier will have the potential to receive milk spills, I will be top coating with Minwax Polycrylic instead.

Here is what the salt and pepper mill carrier looks like. I'm sure I posted this here before.










I will post the finished build as a Project.


----------



## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Creamer and Sugar Bowl Carrier - Build Progress*
> 
> With the workshop mostly reorganized, I've started to get at projects already started and on my To-Do list. A simple project I had been putting off was a small carrier for our Nortake creamer and sugar bowl set. The design is similar to the one used in the salt and pepper mill carrier I made a few years back.
> 
> The design incorporates two different size boards glue together to give the top ledge look, which also simplifies the build process by using a hole in the top board to create a recess once the boards are laminated together. I've included the salt and pepper mill carrier pics. Both carriers will be side-by-side on our kitchen table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used red oak for this project, to match the wood used in the salt and pepper mill carrier. As with the previous project, the oak is from a pallet I deconstructed a few years back.
> 
> The holes made in the top board were of two different dimensions, both larger than the largest Forstner bit I owned. I bored a couple of holes large enough for a clean-cut jigsaw blade to fit and removed the waste accordingly. A little time on the oscillating sander cleaned up the circumferences.
> 
> It was at this point in the construction that I realized I didn't prepare for the chamfering of the holes to accommodate the sloped bottoms of the creamer and sugar bowl. There were only two options that made sense: 1) make a router template and use a trim router with a top bearing 45 degree bit to bevel the holes, 2) mark the dimensions for the chamfers and remove the waste with a rasp. I opted to use the rasp. I added a small indent for the creamer handle. When finished, the boards were joined with Titebond I PVA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pretty good fit. Should be just enough play to deal with humidity changes in the kitchen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as the router was being shunned, I decided to use a block plane to create the 45 degree chamfers on the top edges. I knocked off the opposing corners before skewing the block plane across both ends to eliminate blow out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say, I was impressed with how well the first chamfer went, since I didn't make an effort to sharpen or hone the iron beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all four chamfers done, sanding, sealing, and top coat finishing is left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The salt and pepper mill carrier was finished with spray shellac. Because this carrier will have the potential to receive milk spills, I will be top coating with Minwax Polycrylic instead.
> 
> Here is what the salt and pepper mill carrier looks like. I'm sure I posted this here before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post the finished build as a Project.


Nicely done Paul. I like the simplicity of your design.


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Creamer and Sugar Bowl Carrier - Build Progress*
> 
> With the workshop mostly reorganized, I've started to get at projects already started and on my To-Do list. A simple project I had been putting off was a small carrier for our Nortake creamer and sugar bowl set. The design is similar to the one used in the salt and pepper mill carrier I made a few years back.
> 
> The design incorporates two different size boards glue together to give the top ledge look, which also simplifies the build process by using a hole in the top board to create a recess once the boards are laminated together. I've included the salt and pepper mill carrier pics. Both carriers will be side-by-side on our kitchen table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used red oak for this project, to match the wood used in the salt and pepper mill carrier. As with the previous project, the oak is from a pallet I deconstructed a few years back.
> 
> The holes made in the top board were of two different dimensions, both larger than the largest Forstner bit I owned. I bored a couple of holes large enough for a clean-cut jigsaw blade to fit and removed the waste accordingly. A little time on the oscillating sander cleaned up the circumferences.
> 
> It was at this point in the construction that I realized I didn't prepare for the chamfering of the holes to accommodate the sloped bottoms of the creamer and sugar bowl. There were only two options that made sense: 1) make a router template and use a trim router with a top bearing 45 degree bit to bevel the holes, 2) mark the dimensions for the chamfers and remove the waste with a rasp. I opted to use the rasp. I added a small indent for the creamer handle. When finished, the boards were joined with Titebond I PVA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pretty good fit. Should be just enough play to deal with humidity changes in the kitchen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as the router was being shunned, I decided to use a block plane to create the 45 degree chamfers on the top edges. I knocked off the opposing corners before skewing the block plane across both ends to eliminate blow out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say, I was impressed with how well the first chamfer went, since I didn't make an effort to sharpen or hone the iron beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all four chamfers done, sanding, sealing, and top coat finishing is left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The salt and pepper mill carrier was finished with spray shellac. Because this carrier will have the potential to receive milk spills, I will be top coating with Minwax Polycrylic instead.
> 
> Here is what the salt and pepper mill carrier looks like. I'm sure I posted this here before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post the finished build as a Project.


Thanks, Lee. I enjoyed using rasps and a plane in this project. Always more satisfying when I use hand tools..


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## retired_guru

*Candy Jar Rack - Prototyping*

We have four Anchor-Hocking Candy Jars that we use for snacks. I found a set of plans for a country style countertop rack designed to hold two jars, but the dimensions are not for the particular jars we have, and they are assuming six-sided jars, which ours are not.

When I come across a need to modify plans, I will sometimes build a prototype to get a visual on what the plans want and how that differs from what I need. I use crapwood, like this salvaged particle board, once part of department store put-it-together-yourself furniture, to build the prototype. In most cases I end up disassembling and discarding the prototype when I'm done. Joinery for the prototype has been reduced to butt joints and screws. This allows for disassembly and replacing components. Dimensions have been adjusted accordingly, including a short bed for only one jar.










I promised this a while ago. The wife will be happy to see this project done soon.


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## luv2learn

retired_guru said:


> *Candy Jar Rack - Prototyping*
> 
> We have four Anchor-Hocking Candy Jars that we use for snacks. I found a set of plans for a country style countertop rack designed to hold two jars, but the dimensions are not for the particular jars we have, and they are assuming six-sided jars, which ours are not.
> 
> When I come across a need to modify plans, I will sometimes build a prototype to get a visual on what the plans want and how that differs from what I need. I use crapwood, like this salvaged particle board, once part of department store put-it-together-yourself furniture, to build the prototype. In most cases I end up disassembling and discarding the prototype when I'm done. Joinery for the prototype has been reduced to butt joints and screws. This allows for disassembly and replacing components. Dimensions have been adjusted accordingly, including a short bed for only one jar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promised this a while ago. The wife will be happy to see this project done soon.


With a little modification Paul this could be a doll's bed….LOL!! Nicely done!


----------



## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Candy Jar Rack - Prototyping*
> 
> We have four Anchor-Hocking Candy Jars that we use for snacks. I found a set of plans for a country style countertop rack designed to hold two jars, but the dimensions are not for the particular jars we have, and they are assuming six-sided jars, which ours are not.
> 
> When I come across a need to modify plans, I will sometimes build a prototype to get a visual on what the plans want and how that differs from what I need. I use crapwood, like this salvaged particle board, once part of department store put-it-together-yourself furniture, to build the prototype. In most cases I end up disassembling and discarding the prototype when I'm done. Joinery for the prototype has been reduced to butt joints and screws. This allows for disassembly and replacing components. Dimensions have been adjusted accordingly, including a short bed for only one jar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promised this a while ago. The wife will be happy to see this project done soon.





> With a little modification Paul this could be a doll s bed….LOL!! Nicely done!
> 
> - luv2learn


Thanks, Lee. The resemblance did occur to me.


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## clieb91

retired_guru said:


> *Candy Jar Rack - Prototyping*
> 
> We have four Anchor-Hocking Candy Jars that we use for snacks. I found a set of plans for a country style countertop rack designed to hold two jars, but the dimensions are not for the particular jars we have, and they are assuming six-sided jars, which ours are not.
> 
> When I come across a need to modify plans, I will sometimes build a prototype to get a visual on what the plans want and how that differs from what I need. I use crapwood, like this salvaged particle board, once part of department store put-it-together-yourself furniture, to build the prototype. In most cases I end up disassembling and discarding the prototype when I'm done. Joinery for the prototype has been reduced to butt joints and screws. This allows for disassembly and replacing components. Dimensions have been adjusted accordingly, including a short bed for only one jar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promised this a while ago. The wife will be happy to see this project done soon.


Paul, Great use of almost useless "wood" and way to make things fit to your needs better.

CtL


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Candy Jar Rack - Prototyping*
> 
> We have four Anchor-Hocking Candy Jars that we use for snacks. I found a set of plans for a country style countertop rack designed to hold two jars, but the dimensions are not for the particular jars we have, and they are assuming six-sided jars, which ours are not.
> 
> When I come across a need to modify plans, I will sometimes build a prototype to get a visual on what the plans want and how that differs from what I need. I use crapwood, like this salvaged particle board, once part of department store put-it-together-yourself furniture, to build the prototype. In most cases I end up disassembling and discarding the prototype when I'm done. Joinery for the prototype has been reduced to butt joints and screws. This allows for disassembly and replacing components. Dimensions have been adjusted accordingly, including a short bed for only one jar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promised this a while ago. The wife will be happy to see this project done soon.





> Paul, Great use of almost useless "wood" and way to make things fit to your needs better.
> 
> CtL
> 
> - clieb91


Thanks. It definitely minimizes the stress and worry over messing up on good wood.


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## retired_guru

*Refurbing the Harbor Freight Folding Trailer - Pre-Blog Inquiry*

This week or next I will begin the process of refurbishing a Harbor Freight folding trailer I purchase several years back.









Original Build









Before Removing Wood and Electrical

All the wood I added on to make a staked side trailer has been removed, as well as the electrical wiring and lights. Before I can add the new wiring and lights I need to remove surface rust in some areas, spot prime and paint once cleaned up. Once the electrical is installed and working properly I will add new pressure treated plywood sheeting to make the bed and proceed to build the staked sides similar to before. The most obvious difference this time is that I plan on painting the wood (sans pressure treated plywood bed) instead of using a deck sealer-the sealer I used failed to keep mold from building up underneath the finish and rot from setting in months after application, and the wood as it aged didn't look all that great.

I will be taking progress photos. In the past a few people have asked me for detailed plans, more pictures of the build. If there is interest in seeing a multi-part build series here, let me know in the comments below. I plan on posting the build series elsewhere if there isn't enough interest here. TIA


----------



## sansoo22

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing the Harbor Freight Folding Trailer - Pre-Blog Inquiry*
> 
> This week or next I will begin the process of refurbishing a Harbor Freight folding trailer I purchase several years back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Original Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before Removing Wood and Electrical
> 
> All the wood I added on to make a staked side trailer has been removed, as well as the electrical wiring and lights. Before I can add the new wiring and lights I need to remove surface rust in some areas, spot prime and paint once cleaned up. Once the electrical is installed and working properly I will add new pressure treated plywood sheeting to make the bed and proceed to build the staked sides similar to before. The most obvious difference this time is that I plan on painting the wood (sans pressure treated plywood bed) instead of using a deck sealer-the sealer I used failed to keep mold from building up underneath the finish and rot from setting in months after application, and the wood as it aged didn't look all that great.
> 
> I will be taking progress photos. In the past a few people have asked me for detailed plans, more pictures of the build. If there is interest in seeing a multi-part build series here, let me know in the comments below. I plan on posting the build series elsewhere if there isn't enough interest here. TIA


I'd be interested in seeing your build process. Since I've moved into larger projects that require larger materials I either need a small trailer or a bigger truck. I'm thinking a small trailer is cheaper than a new truck.


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## retired_guru

retired_guru said:


> *Refurbing the Harbor Freight Folding Trailer - Pre-Blog Inquiry*
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> This week or next I will begin the process of refurbishing a Harbor Freight folding trailer I purchase several years back.
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> Original Build
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> Before Removing Wood and Electrical
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> All the wood I added on to make a staked side trailer has been removed, as well as the electrical wiring and lights. Before I can add the new wiring and lights I need to remove surface rust in some areas, spot prime and paint once cleaned up. Once the electrical is installed and working properly I will add new pressure treated plywood sheeting to make the bed and proceed to build the staked sides similar to before. The most obvious difference this time is that I plan on painting the wood (sans pressure treated plywood bed) instead of using a deck sealer-the sealer I used failed to keep mold from building up underneath the finish and rot from setting in months after application, and the wood as it aged didn't look all that great.
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> I will be taking progress photos. In the past a few people have asked me for detailed plans, more pictures of the build. If there is interest in seeing a multi-part build series here, let me know in the comments below. I plan on posting the build series elsewhere if there isn't enough interest here. TIA


@sansoo22 : Thanks for letting me know.

A trailer can carry all that a pickup of comparable capacity could, however, to haul a half a ton of material on a trailer requires a vehicle with the guts to do so. If you are like me, mostly looking to haul sheet goods and some lumber for projects, a trailer like I have could be a low-cost entry, if you have the vehicle to pull it. The other day I bought a 2011 Toyota Takoma shortbed to replace my overly-too-large-and-gas-guzzling '95 Ford F150 XLT 4WD 5sp 8' bed pickup. It came with a Class I hitch and wiring for a trailer, so I can make up for the loss of an 8' bed with the trailer I have, once it's refurbished. The F150 has only been off the road for a couple of days and already I miss it. That will fade once someone buys it from me.

At any rate, if you have a vehicle capable of hauling a trailer with the capacity you need, it's a *lot* cheaper to buy that trailer than to buy a decent pickup in *my* area. That Tacoma cost me $13,000. That said, the advantage of buying the trailer over a truck is that if and when you are ready for a truck, the trailer doesn't have to go.

Good luck in choosing the right path for you. I'm pretty sure I will post the progress here. Stay tuned.


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