# Wipe on Poly



## Grumpy

I bought some wipe on poly yesterday for the first time, I usually use the standard brush on type. I am after clues on how to get that near perfect finish. I believe this product is good. Has anybody any tips on how best to apply it ?.


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## TomFran

Grumpy,

Wipe on poly is regular poly that is thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits.

It can be applied with a wad of lintless cotton cloth or even a paper towel. I like to seal the wood first with shellac, and then follow it up with at least (3) coats of the wipe on poly. You can scuff sand between coats to get the dust nibs off, and then blow or tack rag it off and apply the next coat.

Then let it sit a week or so and give it a final sanding with 400 (lightly), and follow it up with some wax. You can tell when it's ready for the final sanding by smelling it. If you can still smell the finish, it's still drying. When it's sufficiently dry, it will turn to powder when you hit it with the 400 grit.

I hope that helps.


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## tenontim

Depending on the weather where you are, the Minwax brand wipe on poly, dries fairly fast. I don't normally use it, but a customer requested it for a ham radio desk that I built. I was able to put a coat a day on, sanding with 400 grit on my ROS. Like Tom said, when the smell is gone, you can sand, which in the my Texas low humidity, high heat climate, I was able to do everyday. After 4 coats, and a final sanding, I let it sit for 3 days, then applied a coat of Carnuba wax. Smooooth.


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## Radish

You can add a little VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naptha if you wish to speed the drying time.


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## teenagewoodworker

i saw a cool tip for that in a magazine but i forget which one. essentials take a 3" paint roller, wrap it in plastic wrap so it doesn't absorb the finish, and then wrap it in a cotton cloth using your hands to tension it so you get a smooth surface with no pressure marks. if you need anything else to help visualiz it i can go through my magazines and try to find it.


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## trifern

Grumpy,
I usually sand through 220 grit and then apply thin coats of wipe-on poly with a lint free or micro-fiber cloth. I then rub the dried finish with 0000 steel wool and clean off the residue with mineral spirits. I repeat the process 3-5 times depending on the absorption rate of the various species of wood. I have scuffed between coats with sand paper, but I feel that it is too aggressive and not as easy to control as the steel wool. Depending on the final desired gloss, I either leave it for a high gloss, or I buff it with 0000 steel wool and wax for a satin sheen. Check out my projects, they all have wipe-on poly. It is like most finishes, multiple thin coats are better than fewer thick coats. Good luck and report back on your results and level of satisfaction.


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## Grumpy

Thanks for all that expert advice jocks, very much appreciated.


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## LeeJ

Well I learned a few things here. Good question Grumpy.

Thanks;

Lee


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## CharlieM1958

Grumpy, my method is similar to Trifern's, but with a bit of a twist. I'll wipe on about 4-5 coats first, just scuffing between coats with a 320 sanding sponge. Then I sand with 220 followed by 400. This will take off a fair amount of the poly you already wiped on, but it will leave you with a glass-smooth surface. Then apply your last 2 coats as described above.


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## Grumpy

Thanks Charlie, much appreciated.


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## mgradwohl

I use wipe on poly a lot, FWW thought the minwax stuff was pretty good, and so do I. If it is good enough for Maloof, it's good enough for me.

Maloof Oil/Poly at Rockler


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## Walnut_Weasel

I have a small bandsaw box that I am currently finishing with glossy wipe-on poly using the techniques discussed here. On the end grain where there is a sharp curve cut, the poly is very dull. Should I continue to add coats of poly or will I never get a glossy finish over end grain?


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## Grumpy

James, the end grain will soak up the finish more than the long grain will. Thats why you have that dull finish. If you give all the job a light sand and apply more coats between light sanding you should end up with a good finish. For future jobs you could use a sealer first, lilke sanding sealer, then apply the poly.
After 2 or 3 coats of poly I tend not to sand between coats but you can give it a buff with soft cloth.
Let me know how it works out.


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## Walnut_Weasel

Ahh good recommendation regarding the sealer. Now that you mention it I remember reading that before. I will be sure to give that a shot next time I put poly on a box. Thanks.


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## oldworld124

I usually sand to 600 or more for the final finishes with wipe on. You can see the results on my site. Look under Portfolio. Most of the projects have wipe on poly for durability. The tiger maple entertainment center is all poly. I saw it the other day and after 8 years looks better than ever.

oldworld-construction.com


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## dstenzel

What type of microfiber applicator would you use to apply a wipe-on poly or varnish? Is it a hand-held microfiber cloth of some sort? Is it a pad or sponge type product? How much texture does the surface have?

Thank you!


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## Dukegijoe

Honestly, I use old T-Shirts. Norm Abram had a trick of using the large binder clips. He would fold a piece of cloth up, grab it in the binder clip (leaving the metal flip pieces up as handles), then use the binder clip as handles for applying. It works well for me, and the cloth avoids the strips (provided there are no dragging strings) associated with most brushes.

Another note, if you want a Semi-Gloss or Satin finish on your project, use High Gloss for all the coats but the last. The reason for this is that the less glossy has particles in it to reduce the gloss… those particles can induce a haze to the project and start hiding the grain.


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## jockmike2

I send my stuff out like "Orange County Chopper" costs a lot especially for running it through the shot blast, but I'll let my work, and the work of my students speak for themselves. LOL!!!!


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## TheDane

When I ran out of old T-shirts (I had to keep a couple so I'd have something to wear!), I started buying bags of lint-free rags at Menards. They are cheap … especially when I cut them down to 8" squares. I use the binder clips that *Dukegijoe* mentions above to make my own 'applicator'.

I sand to 220 grit, apply a coat of shellac, then do a light sanding before the first coat of poly. I use 0000 steel wool between coats, making sure to vacuum and wipe with mineral spirits. Normally, 3 or 4 coats is enough.


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## dstenzel

I am refinishing some kitchen cabinets that have lots of grooves and such like raised panels. I need to be able to get into the grooves so I was thinking of just using the applicator in my hand without a handle. Wearing rubber gloves. Then smooth it onto the wood in think coats. Do you think I will be able to use an oil-based varnish or does it have to be polyurethane?

Thanks!


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## jockmike2

Cmon you guys loose your sense of humor or what?!!!!


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## Magnum

I used "Wipe On Poly" for the first time out of shear frustration with Varathane Water Based Poly! Using a brush ( the right kind) the stuff starts to dry in seconds, can't touch it after that and it wouldn't "Lay Down" for a smooth finish. So! I cut it about 60/40 with water, grabbed a cloth, wiped it on. (Stirred Not Shaken) BINGO! 3 coats with a rub down in between with 0000 Steel Wool. Beautiful Finish! Can also says "Do Not Use Steel Wool" HELLO??

I also have to confess that at the time I didn't even know I was using, what is called, "Wipe On Poly." ...LOL…

I'm SO Em-Bare-Assed!!!

Rick


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## groy87

any opinions on a good brand of wipe-on poly?


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## Grumpy

Groy87, I use Minwax. Their website is minwax.com
You might be best posting this as a new blog so people will see ir rather than tack it onto an existing one


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## dakremer

I have to ask….since Wipe On Poly is mostly made of mineral spirits…...wont cleaning off the residue between coats WITH mineral spirits hurt the new layer of poly????


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## gfadvm

dakremer - Mineral spirits will not dissolve poly once it has dried/cured.


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## DMIHOMECENTER

I have used the minwax wipe on poly in the square can for years now.

Sometimes when I need to cover a large project, instead of many coats of the wipe on, I will brush on the regular minwax poly (or Zinsser) very thick so that it self levels, then let dry for a day or two, then sand smooth with 220, blow off dust, then wipe off with alcohol, then final coat with wipe on poly with a staining pad. Pretty thick and pretty slick.


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## Jim Jakosh

Hey Tony. I have used it a lot with a ran but when I was still seeing the rag marks in the final finish I had to resort to an old tip I learned about Poly. Always thin it with naphtha if you want it to dry fast dust free and level out real nice. I did that and put it on with a foam brush and it worked just fine! The stuff I used was probably 8 yrs old- maybe that is why I got the rag marks??

Hey Rick, I was thinking about the note to not use steel wool with the water based poly- probably because any steel wool left behind might rust!!


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## Grumpy

Jim, that thinning trick of yours sounds like a good one.


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## Jim Jakosh

Tony, I always use naphtha especially when I'm finishing big areas like doors where the dust can settle in and look rough.It has saved my butt lots of times…..........Jim


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## Grumpy

Thanks Jim & cr1. That post was over 1200 days ago. Time sure does fly when you are having fun.
I have used wipe on poly a lot since with very pleasing results.
My thanks to all who contributed.


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## LeeinEdmonton

I make my own wipe on poly & depending of the type of finish I want I use either high gloss or semi-gloss varnish mixed with naptha. For a streak free finish I use blue shop towels & between coats sand with 400 grit paper. Usually apply 4 to 5 coats. If the previous coat is dry, sanding produces a fine white dust. Naptha is highly inflammable so best do your varnish/naptha mixing outside.

Lee


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## Grumpy

Thanks Lee. That sounds like a very economical option that's worth a try


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## GlennsGrandson

Old post, but I make my own wipe on poly with about 60/40 poly to mineral spirits. Could I use naptha in place of mineral spirits for a while faster or drying time? Or do you just add some naptha to your already thinned poly? Thanks for any input!


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