# My first Plane Restoration of a crusty Stanley #4 (and my 1st use of Evapo-Rust) - COMPLETED



## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

*Here's my "crusty Stanley #4" that is in the worst shape of all my recently acquired planes. Like the thread regarding jumping in the deep end or the shallow end on projects, I chose the deep end, since this is my first plane restore and I'm going with the worst first.



















Very rusty.

I removed the knob and tote, then moved on to the metal parts. The lateral will not move even after dis-assembly. I poured the entire gallon in my covered 15 quart plastic bin and then (of course) placed all the metal parts into it. The gallon barely covers the frame height. I'm glad I didn't grab the 18 quart size.


















While the parts are in the drink, I started hand sanding the knob and tote. The knob and tote are solid, but most of the finish is gone and the surface of the wood was very dry and porous… kind of brittle on the surface like a crust of dry rot. I'll get to repair a broken tote soon enough, though.










I started with 80 grit paper to quickly get the remaining finish off, then went to 120 for a bit all over, then on to 220 where I spent awhile getting it really smooth all around.

I'm not decided on what I will finish them with but I have most of the possibilities on the shelf already (BLO, Watco Danish oil, Varathane, Urethane (thick and wipe, oil and water-based), Deft Spray Lacquer, etc.). Suggestions always considered. What do you suggest ?

More tomorrow.*


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

David,
What are you going to do about the lever cap? Looks like the chrome is coming off so you might as well speed it on its way. Got a belt grinder?


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Philip, nothing gets by your trained eye ;=)

I do have belt grinders… stationary and portable. What do you recommend ? Grind and then what ? Metal finish to a polished surface ? Sand blast to satin finish ? Re-plate ? Powder coat to "almost chrome" ? Get a better lever cap ?


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

David,
if you have a virgin cap or two laying about this would be easiest….
Other than that belt grind to about 220 grit then power wire brush with a soft brush to get a nice burnished look.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks, Philip. No spares. I have wire brush on the bench grinder. Steel okay, I assume.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Nice restore. I'm with Philip. I like the brushed metal look. I started using shellac, went to lacquer and ended with BLO for the knob and tote. Its a more user friendly looking to me. Not real shiny and flashy. I believe Danish oil would give the same type of look. I have used it on gun stocks but never on a plane. I may try it, now that you've planted the idea.

Some times the blade and cap will need a courser wheel to start with. (Sides as well). I often sand the plane sides if they still have major tooling marks.

Your knob and tote came out really well. Did it take a lot of sanding? I usually leave any major imperfections. They give it a "used" look and I don't like to take off a lot of wood.

I want to see the final outcome. It looks like your well on your way. Good to see that nasty #4 will get a new life.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Ditto the advice given above.

Your knob and tote look great. I have found them to an absolute PITA to sand. What technique did you use? Machine? Hand? How did you hold it? Inquiring minds want to know.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Hey, I thought you were the "I don't want to restore a plane guy" about 3 weeks ago…. Lol. Glad you've taken the plunge.

French Polish on the tote and knob would be another option. I would have probably gone the look for a replacement lever cap route suggested by Phillip above. I'm real interested how yours will turn out.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@WayneC, you know that first plane had to work out of the box to see if it "moved" me or not. Wasn't it you that recommended the little Indian Anant Kamal box plane ? Well, it did work great and I have the sickness. Prognosis? I will immediately go into remission as soon as I get a 4 1/2 and a #1. 5 1/2 on the way. Thanks for your part in that ;=)

French polish sounds like a lot of work, even on a knob and tote. I'm game, possibly, but any tips from a pro ?


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@CharlieM1958, I swear I answered your question earlier today but I guess the post didn't take.

I hand sanded it. I used 2" x 5" sheets. Normal way on flats and everything else I could get to first, but for the tight curves I formed the paper loosely in my left hand and used my right hand to turn randomly and back/forth so as not to leave lines. It went pretty good. The fines looked like cinnamon.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Project Update: I left the parts in overnight, then removed them, rinsed and towel dried, then blew them off with 100 psi at 12". They are okay ! ;=)



















The Evapo-Rust does work really well. No complaints there at all. I wish it had taken away ALL the Japanning on this particular restore, but it may be well that it doesn't on later restores.

I saw a little rust in the female threaded holes on the base and on the frog, so I placed those two parts back in the Evapo-Rust for another overnight.

That's where it stands.


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

David,
How loose are the threads in the sole for the handle and knob bolts? If these are in danger of stripping out there is a quick and permanent cure which I have used on many occasions …..
And how much lost motion (back lash ) is there between the "Y" lever cam and the Plane Iron Cap (aka chip breaker)?There is a quick cure for that as well….
And how much lost motion is there between the adjusting nut (adjuster wheel or knob) and "Y" lever lobes? There is a quick but more involved cure for that too….
However, despite much application of the magic cures , no Stanley, Record or any clone is going to be cured of the Lost Motion Sickness, due to the design weakness in this area-but one can eliminate a lot of it which means that you don't spend a lot of time knob twiddling in order to adjust the cut.
Otherwise the beauty of these painted pimps is only skin deep, you know.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I've got a gallon of evapo-rust on its way. I've got a #7 waiting to be dipped.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Evaporust works. If there was any doubt, there isn't anymore. I recently buffed my #8 capiron with a pad and steel polishing stick. I usually don't do that but the result was pretty pleasant if you're looking for a higher shine. I'm enjoying watching this one come together.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

David, that is the same way I have sanded them. I was hoping you had an easier way. LOL!


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## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

Good looking plane going there !!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

This restore is looking great! The sanding description is low-tech, too, and I've done the same. A PITA, but I don't do it for a living either. Keep it up, David!


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks, all for encouraging comments !

BTW… I need a blade and iron for a 5 1/2 if anyone has one to sell. (Yes, that was me that got a 5 1/2 on Ebay missing the iron and blade). Let me know.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I have been preaching and promoting EvapoRust on here for a while now. I know there are also other useful methods to remove rust but EvapoRust has worked so well for me I have yet to try any others.

David, don't get rid of the used EvapoRust either. It will still be good for using on other rusted tools. Just pour it back in the container or cover it up. I keep a tub of EvapoRust open in my shop and will change it every couple months. Its always there for me to throw stuff in when I need to.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@Dan, Thanks for the info. Your preaching has been gospel, brother ! I did know that it was good for a sustained period. I'll pour it through a filtered funnel into the original jug when I'm done. The solids all settle to the bottom and the broth clears quite well.

*I just pulled the frog and sole out of the tank and all signs of remaining rust are gone. See ?*










*OMG !!! See the aircraft carrier lurking in the background ? That's the #8 I've been waiting on… (small gloat admitted) ;=)*


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Not much japanning left on that puppy. Glad you got the #8.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

I am a big fan of Naval Jelly myself (the chemical solution is pretty much the same but the application is a bit different)

Nice looking number 8.

As far as blades go, do yourself a favor and grab a new one (less work to flatten the darn thing…my least favorite shop task). In fact, grab two.

Hock makes good blades, high carbon would be just fine as a smoother/jointer blade (when you are taking light cuts). Grab a tougher A2 blade to grind a camber into it for hogging material away. You don't need super thick blades either, just make sure your bedding surfaces are nice and flat and all will be well in your world.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@Don W, You were right. But not anymore ;=)

Still wet…


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

David- Another tip on getting some more life out of the EvapoRust.. Before you put the plane and parts in to soak, clean them very well and brush any loose rust, paint or dirt off. The better they are cleaned the less dirt and loose material you will have floating in your EvapoRust.

You may have all ready done this but in case you haven't it will extend the life of your EvapoRust.


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## rsdowdy (Aug 25, 2009)

David - Thanks for sharing with us as you step through this process and for everyone's helpful comments and suggestions. There are alot of us lurkers that have never done projects that nod to ourselves and write down this or that as we see helpful things. It is especially great when we see someone do a project for the first time and hear their impressions of the time and effort that went into the project to come out with the finished result.

Royal


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

david. What kind of paint did you use?


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@Don W, I use this Rustoleum Universal Advance Formula Spray Paint paint every chance I get. On rocking chairs, on the bottom of my scary sharp glass, on metal, on wood, on plastic, and now on iron. Everything about it is awesome (the paint drying time, the hardness, the atomization from any angle, the self priming, etc. etc.

Do not confuse it with any other Rustoleum paint (or other brand) as it is very unique. I can't wait til they have it in tintable liquid paint.



















Also, I saw the first cans of the spray poly from Rustoleum in the same type can / tip yesterday. Using it on an oak project I'm about to finish and post. Really good stuff as well.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I will have to give the Rustoleum a try. I typically use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black. It can be re-coated in 10 minutes so you can build it up in a short time. Its engine paint so its durable, and it looks good. I got the recommendation from Rexmills.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

I saw the Duplicolor on threads here and elsewhere on the net. I'm sure that is good paint, too. The "irons" of my 13B rotary engine are painted with red high heat Duplicolor engine enamel and the coat it got in 1996 during rebuild is still hanging in there. It has flaked off the water-pump curve, though. Easy touch-up.

Hell, Testors model enamel would probably do well on a plane. lol

I just wanted to try what I've found that works so well for many other things… to see if it continues to be truly "universal".


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

The biggest thing I like about the duplicolor is I can buy it at NAPA, which I drive by constantly. I haven't seen the Rustoleum Universal, but now plan to give it a try. Variety is the spice of life.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Our NAPA's are slightly off my beaten path, but the Lowe's and Home Depot are across the street from one another less than a mile from us. If they were like that in every town…

Riddle: Why did the woodworker cross the street ? Answer: To see if Lowe's would also take the HF 20% off coupon ? :=)


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I have used both Rustoleum Universal and the Duplicolor engine enamel as well as a couple other Rustoleum types and to be quite honest, once finished and on the shelf I cant tell which plane was painted with which paint. They all look shiny black to me 

I think the goal some guys go for is to have the black look as close to the sheen as the black japanning as possible. Rex Mill says on his site that the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black paint is the closest hes seen to the original japanning finish. I have used this paint and it works great but I personally cant say it looks closer to the original japanning then some other paints I have used.

Here is the paint/primer I have used on some of my planes. This picture shows my #7 after it was painted with this Rustoleum paint









and here is my #6 that was painted with the Dupli-Color engine enamel semi gloss black…









Like I said, both shiny black  I guess the question is what paint will hold the test of time???


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Sorry, project stalled for a bit.

My excuses (in no certain order):

- Daughter and Granddaughter spending last few days of 3 week visit. 
- Worked on project with above daughter last day or so.
- Got the new Ridgid Jointer Planer home today and 200# off the truck solo. I hear it calling…
- Work projects particularly challenging this week.

Also, I am proceeding with a tad of caution on this first one. I have some issues to resolve:
- Not absolutely certain that my favorite paint is as hard as I'd like it to be for plane restoration. I wanted not 
to be able to scratch it. I may have to go Engine enamel after all.
- I'm thinking Dremel on some of the detail polishing, too.

Until next week…


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

David says "Not absolutely certain that my favorite paint is as hard as I'd like it to be for plane restoration." 
Why the apparent concern over chippability (new word) of paint? The original Stanley paint was not exactly bomb proof, I must say. The other thing is that to my mind these tools are sort of sacred ie they are not supposed to be chucked into the tool bag with the rest of the building tools, neither are they supposed to be jostling other tools on the bench top - in fact they aren't supposed to make contact with anything but clean wood. So I would think that the paint should be reasonably tough and should protect against rust.
That is why I settled on Hammerite, which doesn't require an undercoat , dries quite fast and can be sprayed or brushed.
Let us see a picture of this Rigid jointer….


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@philip marcou, I didn't immediately respond to your questions (thank you for being interested) because I had no idea in the beginning because everything was stowed up with rust and dirt. Most everything stuck and had to be pried carefully apart.

It's all in pieces now and i have not had the opportunity to re-assemble anything yet. When that day comes, I will really want to hear about the fixes and especially the "Lost Motion Sickness" that I take it is slop in the controlling and bearing surfaces ?

Agree about the pimping only skin deep not good. Of course, leaving as it was, but just sharpening the blade and lapping the sole to get some pretty shaving would only be funny for a minute or so. A Stanley Sleeper !

Hey, I just got a Stanley #75 Bull Nose Rabbet. Now that is a tiny plane !


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Looks lonely. doesn't she ?










You may be right about the paint. it looks good and it won't come off any time soon by accident.


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

David,
The Bull Nose Rabbit is not a plane to be sniffed at….. They are quite useful and easy to make work nicely.When I first saw one I thought it was a toy.

Lost Motion Sickness is inherent in all planes with a "Y" lever type adjuster : you have to rotate the cutter adjusting screw wheel too much before anything happens. It cannot be eliminated totally but can be reduced to something like a quarter turn with luck. Let me know when you are ready and I will explain further.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Update: The doubt I had about the paint was premature. I found it too easy to remove from the top of the "side rails" a day or two after it was sprayed.

Now that it has dried for a couple of weeks, it is as hard as I would want it to be. I plan to continue using this paint for the many plane refurbs I have ahead of me.

I now have this #4 and a 4 1/2 C apart… both waiting on me to find my way with the metal finishing aspects of the parts.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

*"Crusty" is done for now. I may go back and do a bit more metal polishing, but its all clean and back together. I really enjoyed refurbing this first plane. Thanks for the interest and comments and advice.

BEFORE









AFTER*


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## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

Been looking into (and avoiding) getting into hand planes and hand plane restoration. Thanks for the step by step.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Rob, might as well give into the collective, you will be assimilated…lol They are useful tools if they are sharp and tuned correctly.


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## pierce85 (May 21, 2011)

David, you really did a fantastic job - impressive!


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

@pierce85, Thanks for the comment. I am not impressed with the metal finishing part yet. I'll make a jig for the drill press as others have mentioned and see if i can get some more shine to the bolts. I used a Dremel with brass and stainless brushes, so it was slow and under-powered.


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## BillStan01 (Jan 6, 2021)

A bit late to this thread!! However, Philip Marcou (@philip marcou)mentioned reducing lost motion (backlash) relating to the y-lever and its interaction with the blade/chipbreaker and also between the adjusting nut and "Y" lever lobes. Hinted at some quick cures for these and I'm restoring several Stanley planes and would like to address this. First post, so wonder if a new thread would be more sensible? Cheers, Bill


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