# Joining two sheets of plywood for desk



## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

My next project is to make an L-shaped computer desk using two sheets of 3/4" plywood. I was hoping I could get some help as to some good ways to join these two sheets together. I would like to allow them to be separated at some point because I might move it in the future. But I would like it look and feel like it's still one piece of wood.

I'm also not sure about a nice way to attach the legs. I was thinking of using 4×4s for the legs but that feels like overkill. It was suggested that I attach them using a Clinch nut plate for straight legs. It seems like a nice solution but with it not being a completely flush plate I'm assuming the leg will not look flush and I was hoping to have the legs sit on the edges of the table.


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## MalcolmLaurel (Dec 15, 2013)

When I did an L-shaped desk some years ago, I joined the pieces with a 1×4 underneath with screws, and glued it as well Couldn't separate it again, of course, didn't intend to move it but of course I eventually did; it barely fit through the doors (just lucky there). Might be worth planning the size that way.

Rather than legs I attached it to the wall with heavy duty steel brackets.

Sorry, no pix… it's in my daughter's room now and so covered with stuff you wouldn't be able to see it.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Not sure about the legs, but pocket holes will work to join the plywood-don't use glue if you want future flexibility.


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## hydro (Aug 9, 2013)

For the work surface use a "Tite Joint" Fastener and a spline to ensure surface alignment.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Biscuits for alignment, pocket screws to pull it together. Worktop connectors are nice when used with biscuits but won't work with 3/4" material. Have you got an apron underneath?


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## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

No apron. At least that's not the plan. Are aprons just aesthetic?


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Aprons are more than aesthetic, they are primarily to help keep the top flat by giving strength in the direction the top is most prone to sag.

And +1 to hydro on the fasteners.


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## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

It that case would using plywood be ok for aprons? I wouldn't have to worry about covering up the edges since no one will see them. Would I just glue them on?


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

An apron will help keep the table rigid, strong and keep the legs square. If you dont plan on using an apron Id recommend addressing these issues in some other way.

Plywood will work fine, and pocket holes will work. A plywood top is less likely to move with time. If you wanted to be really safe you could use a clip to allow wood movement.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

+1 on JayT (and hydro).

yes, plywood would be ok for aprons if mounted underneath the top as a support beam. However usually it is used to cover up the plywood edges of the top in which case- plywood wouldn't be all that great though


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## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

Never thought about using pocket screws. I just got a Kreg Jig Jr as a gift too so I'm good there. Didn't think I could use those for something that is only 3/4". But that's probably my ignorance of never using the device.

Could I also use pocket screws for the legs? So I would have 1-2 screws on the two sides of the legs that aren't showing. And then use the pocket screws for the apron too?

Thanks for the continued help everyone.


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## j1212t (Dec 7, 2013)

Yeah, pocket holes work great for 3/4, you will be fine using them for aprons and legs. I put together most of furniture with pockets screws. Anything that doesn't show, onto the kreg jig it goes.


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

Instead of 4×4s use 2 1×4s for each leg joined in a L shape toward the outer edge, this will give plenty of support and guard against any kind of warping. Join the edges of the legs together on one side into the edge of the other using a countersunk hole that you than put a wooden plug into and you have a near invisible joint. I do this quite often with pocket hole screws, but of course this is not a pocket hole.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

I might make the joint a feature, say with a shallow (~ 1/8") chamfer that wraps the front and sides of the two pieces. This chamfer would display as a vee in the joint. Another way to do this is to make one section a different height, with the two overlapping in a tasteful way.

I think it would be darn near impossible to make it look, and stay looking, like one piece of wood, and still be able to come apart.

Any time I'm in a situation where I don't think a flush alignment will last, I add a reveal, inlay, surface break, or other feature, to hide the misalignment, and make it look on purpose.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Just had a look at those tite joint connectors, they fit into a 5/8 deep hole, so they would work for your application.


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## TaybulSawz (Oct 17, 2013)

Is the plywood gunna stay plywood or will it be covered with laminate or some other material? To hide the joint you can do several things but with just plain plywood it will be very difficult. hydro has the best solution IMHO as far as ease of disassembly but still the joint will be very visible. If you cover it with laminate and bevel the joint you can make it almost disappear but it will still be there.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I built a corner desk just as you mentioned. I used oak plywood for the top. I attached (glued) solid oak on the front edge. The joint is going to show in spite of everything you try. I made the corner 45 degrees so it is a long joint. This worked well with the solid oak edge. I used biscuits for alignment along the joint. to clamp the joint, I made up some oak pieces. I used oak 1×2's. I glued and screwed them into a right angle. Then I ran them over my jointer to clean them up. I glued and screwed this to the bottom of my desk top. I left about 1/8th inch space. I put the biscuits in, and pulled it together. I drilled holes for a 1/4-20 bolt as close to the right angle surface as I could work. I pulled this all together. If you get it too tight it will start to raise or bow upward. I think it look s good. I keep a lot of stuff on my desk top so that helps some. The joint is just going to show so get read for that.


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## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

I would like to make it slightly invisible. I just don't want there to be a feel of joined edges. Looks don't really matter too much. I was thinking about possibly lightly (very lightly) sanding the joined edges so that it blends together. Then I'll probably use a gel stain. I think that using a gel stain will help with hiding the edge more but I'm not sure because I've never used it. I guess I could always get a plexiglass top to help get rid of the feel of the joined edges.


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## hydro (Aug 9, 2013)

tazboy,

If you use several Tite-Joint fasteners and leave out the spline/bisquits, you can align the edges as you tighten the fasteners. That will make the seam almost unnoticeable, even by touch. This is the method used on commercial conference tables so it is well proven.

I would suggest staying away from the pocket screw idea in edge grain plywood. They will strip or split the laminates over time and make a mess.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Tite Joint fasteners! They've been used for this problem for 50 years. Hydro is right, no biscuits needed. 45 degree corner with 4 Tite Joint's installed, align the top as you go along, no glue and it will always come apart for easy moving.


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## basswood (Dec 18, 2013)

Consider using a Flip Bolt:

http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/fastcap-tools-and-templates-FCFLIPBOLT?gdftrk=gdfV26452_a_7c8_a_7c2091_a_7cFC_d_FLIPBOLT&gclid=CMOHpvTI77sCFdEWMgodD34AUQ

There is also a jig for routing the bolt chases:

http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/fastcap-tools-and-templates-FCFLIPBOLTJIG

These can be used with splines or biscuits for additional alignment help.


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## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

It looks like Tite Joint fasteners are the way to go. Makes sense if they've been using it successfully and for so long. I've read on a few other sites that they work very well. Seems as though Amazon and Rockler are the few places to purchase online. I can't find them available in the stores. Unless they have another name. I would probably get the template and the bit to go with it so that I don't mess it up.

On another note, I'm thinking of just putting the two pieces together at 90 degrees as opposed to making long cuts at 45 degrees. Is there any negatives to doing it this way.

Where I join the two pieces of plywood, should I support them with a back leg at that point? Is that sufficient or do I need something else? The apron that I'll use will only connect the two pieces in the back but not the front. Just want to make sure this thing will not collapse.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I understand you would like the joint to be slightly invisible. Hmmm…I can foresee problems in the future like splitting, chipping, etc. If I had to make the "L" shaped desk, I might consider, making the joint part of the design. Oak or maple, even birch ply with a matching edge band…maybe up to 3/4 - 1 inch wide could be attached to each of the mating surfaces. If you do a dry fit and your angle is off a tad, you could always use a straight edge and saw right through the joint, thus making the two pieces fit. 

Glue and maybe a biscuit or two for alignment should hold the banding in place. Then you might be able to tighten the joint with the various suggestions mentioned above.

Just thinking out loud.  Good luck and post some pics…OK., post a lot of pics!


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## tazboy (Jul 22, 2013)

I like it when people think out loud. Good brainstorming. I think I know what you mean with the seam issue. It makes sense that things might shift a little which would cause chipping or splitting. I'm hoping that the Tite Joint fasteners and the apron will keep it from shifting. I think if I put the edge band in between the two edges there will be too much of a space. I probably wouldn't like putting an edge band over the seam. I like the idea but I think I would be annoyed by the bump there.

I'm pretty worried about doing this well. This is literally my first project of any significant size, so I'm over-preparing.


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