# router table height



## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

Hi Everyone,

What is the ideal height for a router table set up? I have my Bosch cabinet style table on my Workmate right now, I think it is a little high. You really seem to have to push a piece through with downward force pushing the piece up against the fence. I am thinking about 32" off the floor? I don't really know… I am just getting started with this router business.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I think it depends entirely on two things…. personal preference, and how tall you are. In other words, there is no answer to that question.


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## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

Thanks Charlie. I am about 5' 9", average height. I am just thinking about leverage. It does not seem to be the same as a table saw.


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## Bigdogs117 (Jun 26, 2008)

Mine is taller than most…..around 40" and I am also 5'9".

You can see it here…...

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8463


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

You'll have to adjust the height down (lower table) til *you* feel comfortable, than you have the ideal height for yourself…


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

This has been discussed on LJs many times before…..All of my workbenches and machines that are on roll-around tool stands are about 40-42" high…My router cabinet is about 42" high, also… I like my tables and machines up high so I don't have to bend down too much…And I'm not a tall guy….5'-8", but I built them all high, cause I have a very bad back (3 operations), and don't want to have to stoop very far….But for you…it all depends on what's comfortable for you…for me , it's high….for you…..maybe not…...

edit: When I got my Unisaw about a year ago, I built a 3" rizer for it, cause it was too low..only 34", so now it's 37", and just right…...Most saws are around 34".......


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## biglarry (Jan 15, 2011)

I bought a Freud router table and liked the working the way it came. I don't know what the height was but because of the shop layout it interfere with the input side of my table saw. I cut the router table height down to match the table saw height about 34". Now I use it to support long boards when ripping and sheet goods on the input side of my table saw.

To cover all suggestions it should be some where between 12 and 72 inches. Seriously there are a lot of legitimate suggestions but in the end make sure you are comfortable and be willing to change when ever you have doubts about your comfort and safety.


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## traupmann (Oct 8, 2010)

Well I'm rather tall, 6'7" so I have all my equipment very high 44" for the average person. I also have a chronic back ache, so I find that pushing forward is easier when something is up high, than down low. Stability, safety, and comfort are the critical issues.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

I'm 5'9" and my router was up to my waist just like my bench, anything that height is good for me.


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## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

Thanks Guys. Waist high is always good. I don't want to bend over to much, my back has been abused and it makes me aware of that. I'm not a kid anymore. lol


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## BTKS (Nov 30, 2008)

I prefer about belt buckle height. A good view of the tool, about a 90 deg bend of the elbow, good leverage. I fine tune some stands with screw in adjustable feet. Hope this helps, BTKS


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## Hazspec (Feb 22, 2008)

I have a 500 sq ft workshop with table saw (with catch table), 2 good size work benchs, thickness planer, jointer planer, and router table, .... All of them are at 34 inches. The point is if I am cutting on the table saw, running liumber through the planer, using my thickness planner, or using the router table, all of the equpment is on the same "plane" and I have no "interruptions". If I am moving a project from the work table or work bench, the "all even heights" has me "sliding "as opposed to "lifting"


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## woodjewelry (Jun 9, 2010)

I have aways had my router tables set about 4" higher than my table saw.


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## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

40-43" and your back will thank you for it


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## bob101 (Dec 14, 2008)

I'm six feet tall and I have mine mounted about three inches above my waist, that way I dont have to be bent over all the time when routing, as I use my router table quite a bit


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## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

Well I keep lookin' at it and 34" keeps coming up. Wow, thanks for all the replies. You all are one heck of resource… good people all !

Thanks,
Jack


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## Resurrected (Jan 11, 2011)

If you have a cabinet saw measure the heigth. This has already become the standard heigh for the industry (33 to 37 approximately). Adjust to suit you and or your ailment.

Mine is the same heigth as my saw cause I built it into the table. Approximately 36. I'm your heigth, but I don't have a lower back problem. 36 is perfect for me.


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## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

Update. I am going to cut down my drill press table today for the router table. It is going to be about 34 or 35", belt buckle high on Ol' Dad. You know us Asian people are knowen to be height challenged. lol Thanks to everyone, Jack.


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## GJP60 (Jan 12, 2010)

I'm about 6'2", but I made my router table exactly the same height as my table saw so it coud also be used as an outfeed table for the saw.


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## Routerisstillmyname (Oct 16, 2008)

Taller router table will give you more visibility and control and in my opinion more comfortable to use as opposed to a too short of a router table.


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## rwyoung (Nov 22, 2008)

Consider using featherboards to hold the stock both down and against the fence whenever possible. Pushing it down with your hands also means you have the opportunity to slip and put your hand into the router bit. Working with a table close to waist/beltbuckle height for power tools is generally a good starting point. Generally, power tool worksurfaces are a bit higher than handtool work surfaces. Picking a height that can double for outfeed height is a good idea. I have my tablesaw, powertool workbench and router table heights all the same (well, the bench and router table are about 1/8" lower) to act as outfeed. They are arranged in a "T" shape too so that I can support sheet goods for the occasional times I work with them.


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## Mork (Oct 20, 2010)

I think it depends on your height but I totally agree that a little lower makes it easier to apply pressure to the fence and table. I had a lift in my table saw extension that I absolutely despised for several reasons but after I built a new lower router table I realize the height was very important. Which was not why I disliked the old lift in the first place. The height of the lift in the table saw was 34" and my new table is 32"... as a reference I am 5'8". 2-inches makes a huge difference.

The biggest problem I had with the lift in the table saw extension was the fact that you had to remove the router motor from the lift to change the bit. I think technically you could remove the insert and raise it high enough to get to the collet but this also required moving the fence out of the way. Either way, it was a pain.

My current table is a lift top table and changing bits is a snap. The table utilized a lift of my own design which has a very simple chain drive and hand crank. If anyone is interested I'm selling the lift mechanism and I'll include the PDF plans for the table. I have it listed in my ebay store but if you are interested send me a message here and I'll knock off 12% (my ebay fees).

I hope you don't mind the plug… Here's a video of my table:


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## GregTP (Oct 26, 2015)

The only thing I thought of that wasn't already mentioned is how your upper body position relates to the table top when you are applying pressure to a workpiece. My table is probably a bit taller than average but I really like how it turned out. Basically my point is that I always want to be be pushing on the piece (i.e. hand and arm function) vs. leaning on the piece with my upper body. The latter of the two being much higher risk for slipping and needing to use your hands to catch yourself (or jamming your hand into a raised panel bit).


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I had mine a 37" and I just rebuilt it to 34" - and I like it much better. I'm 5' 8" (and no back problems at 53 - whoohoo!), and it seems to be the best trade off between comfort and having good control of the piece I'm routing.


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