# Bevel cuts in 1"+ boards by hand?



## DustyCellist

Is there a hand tool or method (or jig) for making bevel cuts in lumbar? I used a mitre box/saw on some white pine and almost destroyed the box (and got quite a workout), ended up finishing the cut with a coping saw.

Before circular saw blades were invented, how would carpenters make bevels? Or woodworkers?

Or would they have been carved and not cut?


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## WayneC

I'm not sure I'm understanding what you are trying to do. Can you post a photo?


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## barringerfurniture

I'm not sure about a tool or method besides maybe a shop-made jig. But there's a lot I don't know!

I have a feeling part of the answer has to do with your state of mind. I mean that in our modern age, we've gotten used to super-precise, perfectly executed joints -all these pretty pictures all over the internet of perfect dovetails, perfects miters, etc.

I would rather see honest, hand-cut joinery any day (gaps and all), than perfectly machined ones.

I truly think those minor inaccuracies make it more beautiful. But that's just my opinion.


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## DustyCellist

I am not joining, I'm making toy cars. A bunch of these with my 8 year old son for a school project about American Pioneers.



That windshield is what's giving me pause… I know I could turn the board sideways and scribe a line and use a hand saw straight down, but I feel like it's possible to do it another way… there must be an instance where that's not possible - lets say in a dado channel for some reason you want it to bevel out so a shelf makes a whole face? (not a great example but maybe you understand what I'm trying to describe)


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## JohnChung

I would use a back saw. In my case it would be a dozuki saw. With a spine on the saw it would not flex. Then place a guide on top of the work piece. Saw the bevel by placing the side of the saw on the guide. The guide on top must be of the same bevel of you cut.

If you need to create a guide just mark it and plane it to the lines. It will work fine. After that use the guide to saw the bevel.

I generally saw when the piece is thick. When not too thick I plane it to the lines.


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## jdh122

A sharp chisel should work fine for that. Mark the line on the top and sides then whack away, keeping a bit proud of the line. Then pare it with only hand pressure.


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## WibblyPig

What kind of miterbox did you use? My big Stanley would do those all day long.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Check out boxes on mitrebox of your dreams thread. most any of them would do that cut, easy peasy. A decent vintage mb can be had for $50, and for those cuts on small stock it's a much safer situation than a SCM.


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## EPJartisan

if you are only making a few and want to get it done without a lot more fuss… make one as best you can and glue 220 sand paper to it… turn upside down and sand away any saw marks on every one after. you wont loose your angle.. the bevel will stay flat and you have already saved some time on sanding for a painted surface.


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## JayT

I used a mitre box/saw on some white pine and almost destroyed the box (and got quite a workout)

+1 to Steve. What saw/miter box combo did you use? The inexpensive plastic boxes and saws from the BORG are almost worthless. A good quality one shouldn't have an issue. I finally got one of those, but prior, I have been using John's method and have gotten good results. A good, sharp handsaw shouldn't have an issue cutting that bevel in pine.

Either way, the cut can be cleaned up with a donkey ear shooting board and hand plane.


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## DustyCellist

Thanks for all the replies, guys! I'm clearly quite a novice and I'm glad I finally joined here - I appreciate the privilege of surrounding myself with those who know much more than I do!

Yes, it was the $15 yellow box/blade combo. I suppose it might work for light baseboards…

I'm not sure where to go for woodworking tools around here. The big orange store has some basic carpentry equipment, but nothing for woodworking. They have a few bucks brother's planes (topping out at $40) cheap chisels and cheaper saws.

Thanks for the tips on the chisels and plane! Sounds like the answer I was looking for!


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## Racer2007

What area are you located in ? Someone here may know of a better source for tools than the Big Box.


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## DustyCellist

I'm in suburbia just north of Philadelphia (I went to the big box in Willow Grove)


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## JayT

Yep, there's the issue. There's a big difference between that plastic miter box and the ones here

If you need to buy a new one, look at the 20-800 Stanley clamping miter box with the frame saw It would at least give you a fighting chance for around $50.


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## Racer2007

Don't know how close this is but it might help.

Woodcraft of Downingtown
417 Boot Road
Downingtown, PA 19335
Call Us: 610-873-5660


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## jdh122

Lee Valley is having a free shipping event right now.


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## rance

Why in the world would you not use a powered miter saw? Even a cheap one would work for this.

If you are just bent on using hand tools, then whack it off with a chainsaw, then use this to clean it up:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/95533


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## DustyCellist

Bevel shooting! Nice!

@Richard Downingtown is pretty far, I'm way down by the city line. Willow Grove is a hike for me.

I recently discovered Paul Sellers' youtube channel, and I'm feeling like his methods are close to what I'm looking for. Power free. That said, I did get a Ryobi compound mitre and made up 7 trucks in the last 10 minutes. Lots of chipout, but *maybe* it will stay. We'll see if it's accurate when I try to frame a book case or something with it.

I am not snobbish about any arts (I'm a classical musician with a carbon fiber instrument!) but I feel like this compound mitre is for carpentry and not woodworking. If I can use it to make toys and things and have it pay for itself at farmers/flea markets, I'll keep it. Otherwise, I think that in the long run I'll be better served by a table saw. (A cheap table saw? I'll have to ask later if it comes to that…)


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## Racer2007

Dusty , the compound miter saw can be made to work very well for woodworking if if you take just a little time to set it up properly and add maybe a couple of shopmade items to it like a Zero Clearence insert or backer boards to prevent chip out. I am not sure of the episode # but the Woodsmith Shop had one show that showed several easy ways to get better cuts useing the compound miter saw , You should be able to find it on thier website woodsmith.com , but you do have to do a free member setup to view the show episodes.
I have a cheap Harbor Freight 12" SCMS and it makes great 45 deg cuts after about 20 or 30 min. of Tweaking to get it all set right.
The first thing most people do on a compund miter saw is to replace the Stock Blade that comes with the saw as they are usualy not to good to say the least , for your cuts I would most likely use a 40 or 60 tooth blade.


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## DustyCellist

Richard,

The question I have is when would I need/want to use a power saw like that instead of hand tool alternatives? Also, I find chop-type saws terrifying (I used one today for the first time and I'm alright…).

The type of woodworking I plan to do is small pieces like toys and maybe keepsake boxes and things like that. I don't expect to build china hutches or dining room tables (not anytime soon, anyway…)


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## MrRon

I wouldn't expect 2×4's to be suitable for woodworking. It would be better to use a wood like pine, poplar, white oak, bass wood.


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## JohnChung

@DustyCellist - Power tools are needed when production is high. Just imagine you need 50 planks cut to dimension. Hand tools are possible but it will take a lot of energy. Some of the cuts we do require hand tools. Routers are notably good at cutting mouldings. Moulding planes can do the job but it take a lot of time just to cut the moulding. If time was not the essence then use hand tools.


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