# Circular trays with Dished centers on the Router



## HeirloomWoodworking (Feb 28, 2008)

*Getting started*

*Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*

Let me open this discussion by letting you know that I am a self taught carpenter, with a humble collection of tools and a humble little workshop. I truly enjoy the Lumberjock community because we are all made to feel as an equal participant of the group, regardless of our individual skill levels.

An important part of my growth in the wood art is to work hard at improving my skills and learn valuable new techniques whenever possible. This router technique and jig are an example of a skill that I have learned through others success.

Creation of this jig and its usage comes from the fantastic book *"The Complete Illustrated Guide to Shaping Wood" by Lonnie Bird*. I heartily recommend this publication as I learned some great techniques from it's pages, and use it as a reference for solving woodworking problems often.

You can view a selection from and find sales sources for this fine publication at:
http://books.google.com/books?id=4jtB-JVTerAC&dq=the+complete+illustrated+guide+to+shaping+wood&printsec=frontcover&source=bn&hl=en&ei=g57JSc7NMt7rnQec5MnJAw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=7&ct=result#PPP1,M1

There are numerous woodworking applications that this jig can be used for. Circular tabletops, clocks, lids, etc. My initial experiments with the jig have resulted in a nested lazy-susan display stand, and several serving trays. 

!

*NOTE*
It appears that my photos are not properly sized for the format of this blog. I have edited my posting to allow viewers to click on any picture and you will be given a full screen view of that photo.

*This blog will be presented in a series of 3 postings*
This initial posting will cover the overall concept of the jig and its application. We will also discuss choosing the proper router/router plate/ and bit combination, and a guide for creating a jig for your own use.

The second posting will cover creation of your wood blank, attaching the pivot point/axle to your blank, and putting all of the pieces together into a smoothly working assembly.

The last entry in this blog series will cover usage and proper operaton of the working assembly to achieve a perfectly round piece. We will also discuss properly dishing out the center of your blank, tips on how to achieve a eye catching rim treatment, and end our discussion with some finer finishing tips.

Lets get started.

*Concept:*
I would refer to this as a simple sandwich jig. The stationary upper and lower jig halves surround your work piece, and also cradle your router assembly above the work.

I shall refer to the upper half of the jig as the router sled, and the lower jig half as the sled base.

The router bit cuts into the wood blank through a slot cut into the router sled. The jig and the router remain stationary, as you spin the wood blank on a hub, centrally attached hub to the underside of the work.


To use the jig, simply assemble the jig with your wood blank in the center of the "sandwich", clamp your router into position in the sled, and spin the blank so that your router cut makes a full circle around the wood blank. Move the router and repeat the process. Continue to repeat this procedure until you have removed the necessary material from the work. 


*Router Assembly:*
While any router would probably work for this application, the construction of your jig will be based upon and built around a rectangular plate attached to a router. You can use a sturdily attached router table plate or attach a solid plywood base to your router. A dust port attached to a vacuum/ dust removal system is strongly recommended (more on this later).

In my application and in all references to follow in this entry, I decided to use a router from my arsenal that already had a router table plate attached to it. It is not my biggest, strongest or most accurate router, but it worked perfect in this application.

For you application, temper the work process and depth of your cuts by keeping in mind the capabilities of your router. I will also add and I implore you to *use all safety precautions at all times*. Proper router knowledge, eye and ear protection, and a clean work environment can prevent a devastating accident.


*Router Bit:*
In order to cut the outside circular edge and remove the vast majority of the center material (for a dished tabletop or tray) a straight cut router bit is necessary.

Mr. Bird recommends a spiral straight bit to eliminate chatter and to also achieve a cleaner cut. I would also add to that recommendation that a spiral bit would aid in debris removal, allowing for easier rotation of your blank.


Unfortunately, for my application I have yet to purchase a spiral straight bit, and have been making do with a standard ½" straight bit. I plan to upgrade bits as time allows.

Router bit selection for creation of the edge and rim treatments are virtually unlimited. I feel the selection of these bits are totally dependant upon the artistic tastes of each individual craftsman. Ogee, round-over, cove, core box, and bevel bits (as well as many others) will create pleasing edges.

*Jig Construction:*
I created my jig from pictures viewed in Mr. Bird's book. using odds and ends of ¾" and ½" plywood, 2×4 lumber, and screws that I found laying around in my shop. I found this to be a cheap jig to construct. During assembly, I felt like it was important to maintain strength of construction through-out the jig, so I used strong screws placed fairly close together.

Below you will find a simple (crude) construction drawing that I have created. Please make note that this drawing is based upon the 8" wide router plate that I selected to use in conjunction with this jig. If your plate is different, please adjust your measurements.


Strong 2×4 lumber is attached to the underside of the jig, to aid in stability and strength.


*Center Hub:*
One of the most crucial aspects of your jig construction is proper fitting of the center hub and axle.

The pivot point for your work will be the center hub cut into the sled base and a matching "axle" attached to you're your work piece

In my case I used a 2 3/16" hole saw to cut numerous "axles" from some ¾" scrap hardwood. I then used an oscillating spindle sander to cut an exactly fitted hub into my sled base. The tighter the fit of your axle/hub combination the truer your circular cuts will be.


I hope that this initial installment of this blog has properly conveyed my introductory thoughts for this fun technique and I am looking forward to presenting to you the next phase of this series.

Please feel free to correct any glaring errors that I have made in instructing, and I will try my best to answer any questions that you may have.

So, until the second blog post is ready for release, I hope that you have the occasion to begin construction of your own jig assembly.

Respectfully submitted.

Trevor


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Great Explanation, Thanks!


----------



## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


wow that looks interesting


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Excellent first blog ! looking forward to the next installment : ) Thank you .


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


This is a pretty neat technique. This is going to be an interesting series. You did a good job of explaining and documenting the jig, Trevor.


----------



## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the info and the pics. I will have to try your method when the time comes (soon). Beautiful trays! Great workmanship!


----------



## oldskoolmodder (Apr 28, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Nice to see how this works. Can't wait for the rest of the parts, Trevor.


----------



## RUINTUIT (Jan 2, 2009)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Simple and very understandable explanation. It's woodworking Saturday this weekend and now I have something fun to make, and make use of that old Craftsman router. Thanks and look forward to seeing the next installment.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Nice blog. I'll have to add this to my favorites and build that jig. I was also thinking of buying that bowl setup also. Thanks for the post.


----------



## majeagle1 (Oct 29, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Wow, I have been wanting to make something like this but don't have a lathe…............ duh, now I can use my router thanks to your wonderful blog. Great job and can't wait for the next one.

Do you think you could use a bowl bit instead of a straight / spiral bit to remove the material?


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking (Feb 28, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Gene,

I am sure a bowl bit would work famously in this application.

Hope you enjoy the following episodes

Trev


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Hey trev
This is a great project and a great idea for a jig thanks from another heirloom named company


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> *Hello Fellow Lumberjocks! Welcome to my very first attempt at a blog.*
> 
> ...


Good jig and good blog.


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking (Feb 28, 2008)

*Lets get ready to ROUTER!!!*

*Welcome fellow Lumberjocks to the second installment of my blog.*

I hope that you felt like the information presented in the opening episode of this blog was properly presented and that I was able to convey the information to you in an understandable manner.

Unfortunately, in the opener we had to cover a lot of necessary information and provide a lot of pictures so that all Lumberjocks could understand the concept and construction of the jig.

Now that we got that out of the way…and we have our jig created, lets get cranking on the next phase and get ready to make some sawdust!!!


In this posting we will again be dealing with alot of preliminary information and as we deal with the creation of your wood blank, attaching our pivot point (or axle) to our blank, and we will assemble the jig parts and the wood blank into our working assembly or "sandwich". I promise that after we get through this episode we will be well on our way to making your own dished serving trays.


*Creation of your blank*
For projects such as these a one piece blank is more appealing to the eye. But 22" wide slabs of hardwood, like those that are needed to make the large serving trays, are hard to come by (at lease they are out here on my neck of the treeless prairie), so we have to make them.

When creating large glue-up slabs, edge glueing techniques become a concern. I do not feel that it is necessary in this blog's setting to discuss the specific techniques to create a large wood blank. Skills for edge glueing, joining, and planing multiple pieces of lumber into a single large blank are subjects that I will allow you to explore on your own.

I do however have several recommendations and points that I would like to make for your wood blank creation. 
-If possible book match your boards, or in the least take careful consideration of the grain when slip matching.
-If you chose to use biscuit joinery, you will find it difficult to "dish out" the center of your work as the interior router cuts will expose and destroy your biscuits.
-My suggested technique is to use a locking router cut to join your pieces together, for as much strength as possible.

-I have had success with simple edge-butt glue joinery, but I have found that the router expresses a great deal of stress on the wood blank during the dishing process, and I have had several of these weaker joints fail during the routing process. (read that as: fresh firewood)
-If dishing the center of your work, I suggest using a minimum of 4/4 or 5/4 stock. A dished center on thinner stock will of course mean a shallower dish cut (that does not allow much edge material to shape the rim , or a center section that is thin and weak).

*Sizing your blank*
Obviously the overall size of your blank will be dependant upon the intended size of your project (duh?). One of the great aspects of this jig is that it will work for nearly any size of circular output desired. In theory, the working drawing submitted in installment #1 will work for creating circles up to approximately 22" in diameter down to 2 ½" (slightly larger than the center hub & axle) .

However, keep in mind that circles smaller than the overall width of our jig, are difficult to turn as there is no stock sticking out of the jig "sandwich" to grab ahold of and turn into the router bit. I do not recommend that you place your precious fingers at risk, by placing them inside the halves of the jig, with a hungry spinning router bit lurking between them. So words to the wise….for the smaller pieces, either use a smaller jig, or a different safer technique altogether.

Of course, if you need to create a circle larger than the jig constructed in blog episode #1, all you have to do is create a larger (longer) jig.

So now it is time to rough out the circular shape of your blank.

I feel that an important step in a obtaining a nicer finished product from this technique is to carefully consideration in placement of your center point. Try to mirror the areas of your piece by placing your center point on a central joint (if applicable). Otherwise your finished piece will appear lopsided.

After you have decided upon a center point, on the back or bottom side of your blank, using a trammel or compass, draw a line around the circumference of your blank at approximately your chosen finished project size.

Using a band saw, saber saw, table saw, an angry piranha on a stick, (or the saw of your choice) cut around the circumference line, staying to the outside of the line approximately ¼". Save the scraps that you have cut off the corners, as they will be needed in the assembly step.


*Attaching the Pivot point or Axle*
In the initial entry in the series we talked about creating an "axle" that will snugly fit inside of the hub of the jig. This axle will temporarily attach to our blank, and act as the center pivot point upon which we will spin the blank around the stationary jig and router assembly.

The axle will attach to the back or bottom side of your blank at the center point.

I have used 2 different methods for attachment of the axle.

If you are in a hurry and/or the bottom side of your finished piece will not be in view, you can attach the axle to the blank with a wood screw. If you use this method, please make note that when routing out the dished portion of your blank, DO NOT allow your router bit to touch the hidden screw tip buried in the wood at the very center. There is also the very real possibility that after extraction of the screw, you will have a hole in the very center of your dished out tray.


To prevent the above problems, I have found that my preferred axle attachment procedure is to glue a "sacrificial" axle to the bottom side of my blank. This step requires additional drying time for the glue to set-up, and also means additional sanding of the glue residue after the axle is removed, but I find it a better alternative to the screw method.

When glueing the axle to the center, place a piece of heavy paper between the two glue surfaces (such as a scrap of brown paper bag). This makes the axle much easier to remove in the finish stages of the project.

*Assembly*
Once the axle and blank have been attached (and the glue has cured), it is time to assemble the 2 jig halves and the wood piece into a working assembly.


Begin by placing the blank's axle into the hub of the jigs sled base.

In order to for our blank to spin easily between the two halves of our jig sandwich, after it has been securely assembled, the ends of the jig halves (the area outside the edges of the blank) must be separated by a dimension that is slightly larger than the thickness of our blank.

This is easily accomplished, by first placing some of the scraps cut off the corners of the blank, at either end of the sled base, next to but at least 1" away from the blank.

<insert>

When the router sled is placed into the sled base and over the blank, the 2 parts of the jig will be joined together at the ends via 4 long screws placed over the end blocks.
(see above picture of unassembled jig)

In order for the blank to spin in the hub, we must release the "sandwich pressure" from the blank. To accomplish this, place a thin shim board upon the scrap pieces placed at the ends of the jig. When the 2 halves are screwed together, the scraps and shims are drawn tight between the sled base and the router sled. The blank will be snug but free to turn between the top and bottom halves of the jig.


The trick here is use shims that are big enough to allow ease of spinning the blank, not too tight not too loose. Too tight and you will fight the work trying to get it to spin throughout the length of the project. Too loose and the blank will exhibit excessive wobble and you will get uneven depth results in your router cuts. As you gain experience in the technique, you will gain a better understanding of the shimming required.

*Anchoring your working assembly*
As mentioned above your router imparts a great deal of stress upon your work, and I might add that you are spinning (or trying to spin) your blank, so you do not want your working assembly moving around your work bench.

I found it necessary to place the assembly at the corner of my work bench, and use clamps to secure the unit the bench top. In the interest of safety I strongly recommend that you properly anchor your work at all times!


Whew! Ok…we have got most of the tedium behind us…bear with me gang. I promise that in the next installment, we will make mountains of sawdust. So get your jigs and blanks prepared, and we will make serious progress next episode.



*Heirloom Woodworking*


----------



## Ampeater (Feb 21, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Lets get ready to ROUTER!!!*
> 
> *Welcome fellow Lumberjocks to the second installment of my blog.*
> 
> ...


I can't wait for the next installment.


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *Lets get ready to ROUTER!!!*
> 
> *Welcome fellow Lumberjocks to the second installment of my blog.*
> 
> ...


This is a great blog …don't stop now ! : )


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking (Feb 28, 2008)

*It's Router Time!*

*Welcome back Friends!*

First an apology. It has been several days since I have offered to you the previous installments of this blog. Time constraints (kids, work, etc) and my desire to use video demonstrations of the technique have kept me from keeping you informed in a timely manner.

Well, today a window of opportunity has opened up. It is raining today, so turkey hunting, softball practice, and yard-work have been postponed. So I have been able to devote some time to my blog viewers. I spent the day in the shop playing with the router jig and a glued up blank of red oak similar to the items described in Parts #1 & #2 of this blog. I have also been trying my hand at developing a series of demonstration videos. I hope these videos are helpful for you to better understand the points that I am trying to convey to you.

I hope that you have had a chance to study the material contained in the initial 2 installments of this blog. For those of you who have not had the opportunity to read and follow this blog, the technique that I am trying to share with you involves the creation of a jig to use in conjunction with your router, to create large dished center serving trays. 
Please take the time to scan the previously posted material offered, and use that information to create your own jig and special wood blank for use in the jig assembly.

*A special note regarding the embeded videos in this blog*
I have been struggling to correctly embed the videos that are listed below. I am going to go ahead and post this blog as you see it, and I will hopefully be able to soon get the job done correctly. For now, please click on the links listed to view the video. Thank you for your patience, Trev

*Debris control*
As stated in the first installment, a dust collection port is imperative to this technique. Your bit liberates a large amount of debris from your blank. This debris must be removed from the work area in a timely manner, or you will fight to spin the blank. You will find that if left to collect upon your work, the debris will find its way between the blank and the upper half of the jig (the router sled). This debris will create a jam condition, hindering your ability to spin the wood blank between the jig halves. This hinderance will cause you to use more and more pressure to spin the blank upon the hub. As you exert more and more pressure (and attention) to spinning the blank, your efforts become centered upon spinning the blank and not upon the router. A very unsafe condition.


If possible I have found it helpful to use a pair of vacuum nozzles to assist me. One attached to the router dust port, and the other I position over the blank to clean the freshly created debris from the blank (an extra pair of hands are very helpful here). In order to give the viewer a better angle during the creation of the videos for this blog, I chose not use the second nozzle so as to not block your vision of the work.

*Use of stop Blocks*
You router, regardless of the exact machine that you chose to use, exerts an large amount of pressure. It is your job to proper and safely harness this pressure.

Always use a stop block firmly clamped to the sides of the jig. Trust me, without stop blocks, you will not be able to control your router adequately, and you will end up making inaccurate cuts as your router bit tries to take ever increasingly larger bites from your wood blank. The bit will race across the work possibly ruining your work.


*Direction of blank spin*
Consider your router bit rotation. You always want to bring the work to the bit. Do not allow the bit to bite its own way around the blank. This will cause your whirling router bit to act as a drive gear on the blank. Thus, spinning your blank at wildly dangerous speeds, that you will never be able to control safely.

The goal here it bring the work to the cutting surface of the bit.

Notice the picture above, I have labeled my jig with an A and a B side. When cutting with the A side of the bit, always spin the blank in the counter-clockwise direction. When using the B side of the bit, always spin the blank in the clockwise direction.

Every time you change your cutting situation, consider the proper direction of rotation. It is a very unpleasant situation to loose control of your blank, as the router rips it from your hand.

*Before you turn on your router…*
I can not understate my hope and prayer that you always keep proper router safety measures in place at all times during the usage of this router jig, including (but not limited to):
-*never *start your router while the bit is touching the work. Make sure you router is running at full speed, and then take it to the work.
-*never* ask more of your router and bit combination, than it can perform safely. Do not make cuts that are deeper than your set-up can handle.
-*always* maintain control of your work. Use the recommended stop blocks, keep downward pressure upon your router so that is stays seated safely in the router sled, and keep a firm grip on the wood blank as you spin it into the router bit.
-*always* wear proper eye and ear protection

*Cutting the outermost edge*
The first cut you need to make, to your blank, is the one that will define the overall size of finished project. This is a straight cut, we will add rim embellishments near the end of the project.

I suggest that you make the outer edge cut in stages. 
#1-Set your stop block so that your bit makes its cut a 1/16th of an inch or less outside the desired finished circumference. Make the initial cut approximately half way through the blank.
!http://i295.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid295.photobucket.com/albums/mm131/TREVOR_PREMER/router%20jig/jigpic4005.flv!

#2-Lower your bit so that the bit completely cuts through the bank. Creating a perfectly round blank.

*Please Click the link below to view the video*
http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm131/TREVOR_PREMER/router%20jig/?action=view&current=jigpic4006.flv

#3-Move your stop block for a third cut, such that the bit cuts the entire blank edge in this pass. This cut will create the final size of the finished product, and remove any of the tooling marks from the edge created in the previous cuts.
*Please Click the link below to view the video*
http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm131/TREVOR_PREMER/router%20jig/?action=view&current=jigpic4007.flv

*Dishing the Center*
Chose a starting point for your dish cuts that is in the outer half of the blank. This starting point will aid you in debris removal.

Since both the A and B sides of the router bit will be contact with the work. Place firmly clamped stop blocks on both sides of the router.

Begin with your router bit raised so that it is not in contact with the work. Start the router and bring it to full song. Carefully lower into the work the desired depth. Secure the depth control of the router and rotate the blank.
*Please Click the link below to view the video*
http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm131/TREVOR_PREMER/router%20jig/?action=view&current=jigpic4011.flv

After the initial cut, and frequently during the subsequent cuts, remove as much of the liberated debris as possible.

For your subsequent dish cuts, begin with the router OFF, move your stop blocks in the desire direction, either towards the center of the work or towards the outer edge.

When moving your stop block for you next cut do not move the block further that the diameter of your bit. Reminder, when restarting your router make sure your bit is not touching the work, then take the bit into the work until the router is firmly against the stop block, and rotate the blank the full circumference.

Continue to repeat this process moving your stop block and cutting another circumference from the work, until you have removed the desired amount of material from the center of the blank.
*Please Click the link below to view the video*
http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm131/TREVOR_PREMER/router%20jig/?action=view&current=jigpic4012.flv

*Note* I do not use the same bit used for removing the center debris (a ½" straight bit), to make my final cuts at the inner edge of the rim. (more on those rim cuts later). Make a pencil mark on the blank face representing the rim width, and make your initial edge cuts up to an 1/8" from your mark.


*Dish Depth*
If you wish to increase the dish depth of your finished project, simply repeat the dishing process (allowing for the cut limitations of you router/bit combination) until you have reached an agreeable tray depth. This may make several depth adjustments necessary.


*Rim details*
The rim profile defines the finished tray, and like any personal work of art, the choice of profiles to finish the tray rim is fully dependant upon the personal choices of the craftsman.

The woodworker can choose any router bit in his/her arsenal. Round-over, bevel, ogee the list limited only to the bits at the craftsman's disposal, or for that matter perhaps you chose to use hand tools such as files and scrapers to create your rim. I encourage you to experiment and create a profile that pleases you.

The style that I have chosen for most of my projects involves several cuts. For the first cut on the rim I choose to use a core box bit to define the inner rim edge and give a fillet look to the point that the rim meets the tray surface. This Cut will be made to the pencil line we created in the dishing out process discussed above.


I then choose to give the top of the inner rim edge a slight round-over curve. To accomplish this I use either simple sanding, or a small router bit with the bearing stud ground off.


With the inner rim edge profile completed you can now remove the wood blank from the jig, and remove the axle from the work. If you glued the axle in place as instructed in previous installments, simple use a scraper or putty knife struck lightly with a mallet to break the glue joint. Sand the excess glue and paper from the back of the work.

Keeping with the round over theme I use 2 slightly larger round-over bits to define the outside rim edges (upper and lower). This is most easily accomplished on the router table.

I also choose to make my lower outside rim edge cut deep enough to slightly expose the side of the bit cutting surface to the work. This gives the tray bottom a foot like appearance.


Here is a simple picture, demonstrating the profile and bit selection that I normally choose, but please use your own tastes to create you own unique rim profile.


*Finishing*
Congratulations! You have now created a dished tray with your router and jig.

After routering the tray will need considerable sanding or scraping to remove all of the tooling marks from the work. For my own work I opt to use a random orbit sander and increasingly finer grit papers, until the tray and rim surfaces are suitable for my own tastes.

As you know there also seemingly limitless options for protective finish materials. Your decisions for finish materials should include consideration as to how this tray will be used. Since these projects will be used in a variety of situations, I recommend going with a finish material that is extremely durable, such as polyurethane varnish.

*In Conclusion*
Thank You Lumberjocks, for indulging me and allowing me this opportunity to share with you this technique.

The dished trays, shown in this blog, are but one example of the many uses that this technique can be used to create a myriad of works. It is my hope that you are able to experiment with the jig for you own creative projects.

Keep up the good work
Trev


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


I like it! Thanks for the detailed procedure for this. It would be nice if we could get a simple diagram or a couple of picts of just the jig. That top picture of the finished product is really nice.


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking (Feb 28, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


Daniel
A dimensioned detailed drawing is included in the Part #1 of the blog
http://lumberjocks.com/HeirloomWoodworking/blog/8053

Thanks for the kind words
Trev


----------



## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


Thanks Trevor, that is so cool, when I first saw these I thought man that is some big wood for the lathe. I could'nt believe you did it with a router. Did you come up with the jig on your own? I would have to say, way cool. You have a very unique mind. Right up there with GaryK. I am going to try and make this when I get back on my feet. By the way that is a huge walleye, where did you catch him. mike


----------



## PCorl (Feb 23, 2009)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


I really like this process. Thanks for the demo.


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking (Feb 28, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


Mike,

I took the idea for this jig and technique from the book "*The Complete Illustrated Guide to Shaping Wood" by Lonnie Bird.* I heartily recommend this to wood workers of all skill levels as there are many great ideas, techniques and projects detailed in the nearly 300 pages.

You can view the jig creation and dimensions in the first instalment of the blog "Getting Started"

The walleye is a Canadian fish, taken on Ontario's Lac Seul in Aug. of 2008. An absolutely incredible fishery! We fish out of William's Lake Lodge. Ken and Kathy are some of the worlds greatest people. You can see their website at:
http://www.williamslakelodge.net/
The walleye in that pic was barely 29" long but weighed an honest 9lbs! An absolute pig! We measured, weighed and released her back into those beautiful waters…..gawd I can't wait to get back there.

I hope you are feeling up to getting into the shop soon my friend

Trev


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


I've got to give this a whirl ! Thanks for posting such a fine blog and videos to boot ! Nice going on that Walleye …Catch and Release is my way of fishing too. : )
ps: would a bowl bit eliminate some of that sanding ?


----------



## Rocketman (Oct 12, 2008)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the time and effort to share such a great project. You did a phenomenal job with the explanations and the photos! I can't wait to try it myself.

Best of luck with the fishing!


----------



## Starwarz (Mar 23, 2011)

HeirloomWoodworking said:


> *It's Router Time!*
> 
> *Welcome back Friends!*
> 
> ...


Trev I absolutely am blown away by the hope chests you made for both daughters. I would love to get the measurements and the type of wood. My daughter is turning 18 and this would rock her world. If you have 
Anything that could help me make one of these I sure would appreciate it. My friend has a neat workshop. He said 
I could use his shop while I make it. Trev I am just a Dad like you but have been given a curve ball. I was in a head on collision on Feb.25,2008. I have had three years of MRI"s,x-rays,catscans,physical therapy,chiropractors and injections. I am able to walk but not without severe pain and discomfort on my right side,lower back,and the sciatic
Nerve down to my foot. I will be on pain pills the rest of my life. Surgery is imminent but they are trying different meeds. And hoping that one of them will give me relief. I am telling you all this because as a father I so want to give my daughters the best memories I can give them. I can't run,bend much,throw a ball,bowl,kick a ball etc. But what I could do with my own hands is give them a hand made hope box made with love… Thx.


----------

