# Hand Tool Woodworking Jigs & Fixtures



## RonAylor1760

As I have followed various threads on this site I have observed a renewed interest in traditional woodworking methods, as many of you are discovering the pleasure and advantages of using hand tools. Unfortunately, traditional woodworking is not as simple as flipping off the switch to that power tool and picking up the corresponding hand tool.

We often ignore the jigs and fixtures that traditional woodworkers use along with hand tools to improve speed, accuracy, and efficiency. Given that the majority of jigs and fixtures are user-made as perhaps occasion demands, they do not appear in standard tool catalogs, and as a result beginners experience unnecessary frustration with traditional hand-tool woodworking, and quickly return to their power tools.










Now, I realize that practice and experience will improve technique no matter how one works, with or without extra jigs and fixtures, but why attempt to do something unaided when the use of simple shop-built devices just might help towards achieving perfection.










So, what jig or fixture can you offer the newbie hand tool woodworker so that he or she can take command of those hand tools?


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## RonAylor1760

Although nothing to look at, unless you like gnarly and overly distressed, my saw bench is the most used fixture in my shop. Constructed of the finest pallet lumber anyone could fine, this beast is perfect for ripping boards. All to often when ripping one must stop and slide the board forward to keep from tearing into the bench or saw-horse. This design allows for at least 30" of ripping before having to move the board. I my opinion, uninterrupted sawing is just as important as a sharp saw.


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## bandit571

The saw vise I have stays outside year-round. 









Nothing fancy.

I tend to build jigs to hold parts so a plane can be used…









Usually just some scraps screwed to the bench. Finish a job, try to keep some of the pieces handy, in case another one needs a jig…









Other times, I'll need something to hold a part upright, for chopping a through mortise or ten..









And, I can add a clamp to keep things from bouncing around..









Just a "base" and a pair of uprights, all screwed together. Can be adjusted to match the thickness of the part being held. I then add a few screws to hold the jig to the bench top. ( Hey, it IS a WORKbench, right, not a dining room table) About the best way I have when I need to chop these..









Lock rail connection for a screen door I built. Jig also works when the grooves needed ploughed…









That 1865 Plough plane has been retired, as I use a Stanley #45 now a days.

Oh, there was a jig to use in a dog hole..
I sized a 3/4" dowel to fit the dog holes, cut one end at an angle. Had a piece of old saw blade, screwed the plate to the angled end of the dowel. Saw teeth on the high side of the dowel. Push the jig into a doghole so that the low end is on the bench's top. You now have a planing stop. I clamp a part between it and the end vise, and plane away the rough stuff. teeth will dig a bit into the endgrain, just like to old time stops used to do.

When I am able to hop down to the shop, and take a picture or three….I'll try to get a few of the Plane Stop.


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## RonAylor1760

Here's one of those "as perhaps occasion demands" jigs that became a rather versatile tool …


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## RonAylor1760

Bandit … may I send you my address? I'll take that 1865 Plough plane off your hands … LOL!


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## theoldfart

Ron, I built these several years ago. The first is a set of horses based on a Schwarz design.









They are really sturdy, that bench top is 4" thick 22" wide and 7 feet long and heavy!


















In fact I made a set of risers and tested bench heights with them

They held up the bench for almost two years.

Next up is a planing jig for thin stock, the originals were made by Norm Pirolo.









it's quite versatile


















Also the ubiquitous chute board


















And some birds mouth and pad pieces used with holdfasts


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## RonAylor1760

Kevin - I tried the pad and bird's mouth pieces, but just didn't like it! I find it easier to push the work up against a dog at the head and place the holdfast at the rear with a little piece of scrap between it and the work. My little piece of scrap is 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" maple … has lived in my tool trough for 20 plus years. Sometime she doubles as a sanding block! I can't tell you how many times I've dumped the trash bag looking for that little block of wood. Is that crazy or what?.

I may as well ask before Bandit does … why do you have holdfasts on your dining room table … LOL!


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## theoldfart

They keep the table cloth in place, doesn't everyone do this?


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## RonAylor1760

; ) ...


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## RonAylor1760

I guess this technically fits the bill for a jig and/or fixture … my sharpening station, consisting of diamond impregnated stones (course, medium, and fine), 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on glass, and a leather strop charged with chromium oxide. Just work your way across from left to right for a perfect edge every time!


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## RonAylor1760

An improvement on the old V-clamp … one side of the notch is straight while and the other is angled to accept a
wedge. The workpiece receives greater support. This clamp is held in the vise by a keel. To help keep up with the wedge I added a pin so that it can be attached to the camp board. The wedge could also be attached with a length of cord.


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## RonAylor1760

With just a few pieces of scrap, here's a sweet little jig for burnishing card scrapers. I have a slot for a flat file used to joint the card. Once jointed, place a burnisher into one of three angled holes (15°, 30°, or 90°) to create a burr of your liking. Either clamp the jig to the bench and run the card bach and forth; OR, place your card in a vice and run the jig over the card.




























Enjoy!


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## RonAylor1760

Here's a great little jig for sharpening a drawknife …




























Enjoy!


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## RonAylor1760

I'm not too savvy when it come to social media and just today learned what it means when someone posts the word BUMP … to bring up somebody's post typically by posting the word "bump" on a message board.

So now that I have posted the word *BUMP *... everyone posts a comment in kind, right?


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## RonAylor1760

... well that didn't work!


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## bandit571

Post something and it will..









Saw Guide…









Add a block, to taper a leg


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## RonAylor1760

Touché … but there has to more folks out there with hand tool woodworking jigs and/or fixtures besides just Kevin, you, and me!


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## theoldfart

Now really, does anyone else really matter? Nobody here but us chickens!


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## RonAylor1760

> Now really, does anyone else really matter? Nobody here but us chickens!
> 
> - theoldfart


Too funny … actually, that very thought crossed my mind as I clicked Post this reply … LOL!

I've been so busy with my prie dieu I haven't been paying attention to the threads … just saw that this one had been idle for quite some time. Thought I give it a bump as they say!


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## WayneC

I have a number of bench hooks, shooting board, etc.


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## RonAylor1760

> I have a number of bench hooks, shooting board, etc.
> 
> - WayneC


Yes, I know. I like your bench hook for the Japanese saw.

(Hope you don't mind me posting a link to it)


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## WayneC

I don't mind.


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## RonAylor1760

My current prie dieu build has me knocking the dust off of my moulding planes. I'll be putting profiles along the edges of several of the parts. To be able to plane, or "stick" these parts, I'll need a way to secure them.

Enter the Sticking Board …










... my sticking board is just a 1×6 with a 1×2 screwed to one edge as a fence and another 1×2 as a keel. Instead of screws to hold the work as seen on many sticking boards, I use a series of nails. Not only at the end fence, but along the length of the board every 6 or 7 inches (hidden under the little strips of wood). This seems to hold the work better for me. Keeping it from sliding all over the place The board is then held in place by a bench dog at the head and with the keel in the vises.


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## RonAylor1760

... and oft overlooked jig/fixture for holding …










YOU … if clamps are too small, or might mar the surface … consider using you own body weight to hold a work piece in place.


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## theoldfart

That particular organic jig worked well for me on this.


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## RonAylor1760

WOW … that looks like lots of ibuprofen!


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## theoldfart

Blisters and a bruised chest as well!

On the inside of a few of the bores I needed a 2" diameter to accommodate the 203's.

Tools of choice










A back side view of the 203


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## RonAylor1760

> Blisters and a bruised chest as well!
> 
> - theoldfart


But all worth it … it looks great! I should have gone the sliding deadman route …










... but then I like woodworking with a masochistic flare!


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## theoldfart

"masochistic flare!" alternative fact re. woodworking!


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## Marcial

One of my woodworking goals this year is learning dovetails. That and Chris Schwarz's notion that a bench should be capable of holding objects in as many ways as one has a need for led to this frankenvise. It's part traditional woodscrew Moxon vise albeit with the screw, used in conjunction with my patternmaker's vise bring able to hold up to a 10'' x 26" item (think drawer assembly) awa smaller components. In addition, I wanted to be able to use it on other benchtops. Thus the pipe clamp configuration.


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## theoldfart

Good idea and that pattern makers vise is quite enviable too.


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## RonAylor1760

Very Interesting … I need to study this a bit …


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## dbeck

Sorry i am not able to add to this thread right now but thanks to those that have contributed and i hope some will get this thread going again. Like one person said … there has to be a LOT of folks on here with jigs etc


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## RonAylor1760

Typically, I use 3/16" bamboo skewers for drawbore pins. My current Prie Dieu build requires something a bit different. The perfect round pin is not conducive to 17th century furniture. I need the old square peg in the round hole. After an exhaustive Internet search for commercially available walnut rosehead drawbore pins… yeah right … I decided to make them myself.

After cutting out some 1/4" x 1/4" x 7/8" billets …










… I whittled them down …










... to just barely fit the 3/16" hole in my jig.










After a quick tap to drive the pin to the full 3/4" depth …










… I used a file to form the rosehead (just a little pyramid really).










The newly formed drawbore pin was then extracted via an awl from the reverse side.










And there you have it … the *Rosehead Drawbore Pin Jig*.










Detailed plan available upon request … LOL!


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## theoldfart

Ron, they hold their rose head profile after being driven in?


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## RonAylor1760

> Ron, they hold their rose head profile after being driven in?
> 
> - theoldfart


Once you flatten the pyramid … you have a rosehead!


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## theoldfart

I like it. Thanks.


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## RonAylor1760

> I like it. Thanks.
> 
> - theoldfart


My pleasure. This little jig can also double as a sanding block … which it was before I drilled a hole in it … LOL!


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## Manitario

A lot of great info in this thread, even for seasoned handtool users!

For the beginner, I would add that learning to sharpen easily and consistently is one of the biggest hurdles to handtool use. Here's my simple set-up: 









The waterstones are 1000/4000/8000. They only need a spritz of water before use. Simple Eclipse jig and angle ref. board takes seconds to clamp a blade in and gives me more consistent, repeatable results than freehanding. I use the coarser diamond plates if the blade is really dull or chipped and then finish up on the waterstones.

Other "jig" I use often is my Moxon vise. Bought a Benchcrafted kit from Lee Valley…easy to make and makes sawing dovetails and tenons a lot more comfortable.


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## RonAylor1760

> Ron, they hold their rose head profile after being driven in?
> 
> - theoldfart





> Once you flatten the pyramid … you have a rosehead!
> 
> - Ron Aylor


Voilà!


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## theoldfart

Oh Yea.


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## RonAylor1760

I am in the need of creating lamb's tongue stopped chamfers on my current Prie Dieu build. In the interest of NOT double posting … Please see the gauge here. Enjoy!


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## MrSmith670

I must confess Ron, when I can't come up with a solution, I check your posts for an answer. You usually have one, and well documented as well.
Thanks.


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## RonAylor1760

> I must confess Ron, when I can t come up with a solution, I check your posts for an answer. You usually have one, and well documented as well.
> Thanks.
> 
> - John


Thank you very much, John … you're too kind!


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## DavePolaschek

I missed this thread, but I have a number of workholding hacks I use on my low workbench - while it's wider than a roman workbench (I didn't want to cut down that pretty elm slab), I can still straddle it and do while cutting nearly anything. One thigh or another is almost always draped over longer workpieces.

I use a 9/16" tapered tenon cutter to make all sorts of bench dogs as-needed.










The holes in my benchtop are all 11/16", which seems to work well with my 5/8" holdfasts, also shown in that picture.

I also have my octagonalizer. It's a simple jig made to turn square pieces of stock into octagons using my jack plane.










It's three feet or so long, so I use it lengthwise on the bench, which works out fine. Just a couple 2×4 scraps, cut down with a circular saw and screwed together with deck screws. About every six months the end that hooks over the edge of the bench (in the foreground) will pull its screws out of the 2×4 end-grain, and I'll saw off a little cracked wood and screw the end back on.

I have two angled pieces cut out of a 2×12 scrap. They're about the same angle that I make stool and bench legs at, and are useful for being able to drill straight down for placing stringers.










Notice in that picture how I'm actually using the stool seat as part of the workholding for drilling the stringer holes in the legs. I'd forgotten that I did that, but it was super handy having the piece at hand to check my work as I went.

You can see that same scrap being used with my shooting board (also quick and dirty, but I got the right angles right, which is the important bit) to dress the ends of the sides of my dustpan. Apparently whatever angle that is happens to be aesthetically pleasing to me.










That shows my shooting board, too. I also have a couple pieces of construction-grade lumber cut to 45°︎ that I use with the shooting board when I'm making miters. Don't seem to have a picture of that, though.

Finally, the most traditional of my workholding "jigs" are a pair of handscrews. While I was working on my face vise, I didn't *have* a face vise to hold long pieces so I could plane the edges true, but a pair of hand screws do the trick just fine.










Merry Christmas! Hope some of my workholding tricks give someone else (good) ideas.


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## DavePolaschek

I also realized that my workbench itself has a workholding hack. I initially made it as a general purpose bench, and that piece of 1" stainless that runs along the front edge was initially designed to keep screws and such from rolling off the front of the bench. It sits about 3/32" proud of the top of the bench, which turns out to be plenty for holding surprisingly large pieces in place when cutting with a Japanese pull-saw. I just slap it against the edge and saw away.


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## OleGrump

Maybe not a "jig" per se, but I have made some additional bench dogs using a Stearns adjustable tenon cutter, with the blade set to fit the tenon in the dog hole. Pretty quick and easy if you only need one or two "extras" and don't want to spend the time to turn them on the lathe. (We all keep our tenon cutter blade SHARP and properly adjusted, right…...???) Today's woodworking gurus would probably frown at this, but it works for me. If they get damaged during use, throw 'em away and make a couple of new ones.


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## RonAylor1760

> Maybe not a "jig" per se, but I have made some additional bench dogs using a Stearns adjustable tenon cutter, with the blade set to fit the tenon in the dog hole. Pretty quick and easy if you only need one or two "extras" and don t want to spend the time to turn them on the lathe. (We all keep our tenon cutter blade SHARP and properly adjusted, right…...???) Today's woodworking gurus would probably frown at this, but it works for me. *If they get damaged during use, throw em away and make a couple of new ones.*
> 
> - OleGrump


Good to know! And that is exactly why we want to hang on to all the little scraps.


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## OleGrump

I stumbled onto a very interesting book recently which I though I'd mention. The title is "Forty Power Tools You Can Make" by Popular Mechanics Press, Copyright 1941. (And published for several successive years) Before I get myself banned to "Power Tool Purgatory" (Please, NO!!! Anything but THAT!) please hear me out.
Throughout this fascinating book there are a number of shop tips and techniques which are very valid for ANY shop. There are also plans for a treadle operated lathe and a treadle operated scroll saw made in the "velocipede" style. (I am HOPING that FOOT powered tool will be allowed here as an extension of HAND powered tools, legs being human appendages after all.) BTW. Many of the "machines" illustrated could be adapted to treadle operation, and the drill press plans would work well using a breast brace.
As to "Jigs & Fixtures", among other things, there are lathe mounted sanding discs and sanding table for the banjo mount. (Does anyone REALLY enjoy hand sanding EVERY thing….??? A treadle lathe would benefit from these) and a nifty clamping jig for coping saw work with the material being held in place by a cam lever.
For the six dollars and change I spent for it on Amazon, there is a LOT of information in this nifty little book.


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## MrRon

Because I build models, I use jigs and fixtures all the time, mostly to make duplicate parts. While I'm basically a power tool guy, I still use a lot of hand tools. My jigs are usually one off. I make it, use it then scrap it. I have written about the use of jigs and fixtures previously and I repeat; they are the key to accurate woodworking, whether it be hand or machine work.


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## RonAylor1760

> I stumbled onto a very interesting book recently which I though I'd mention. The title is "Forty Power Tools You Can Make" by Popular Mechanics Press, Copyright 1941. (And published for several successive years) Before I get myself banned to "Power Tool Purgatory" (Please, NO!!! Anything but THAT!) please hear me out.
> Throughout this fascinating book there are a number of shop tips and techniques which are very valid for ANY shop. There are also plans for a treadle operated lathe and a treadle operated scroll saw made in the "velocipede" style. (I am HOPING that FOOT powered tool will be allowed here as an extension of HAND powered tools, legs being human appendages after all.) BTW. Many of the "machines" illustrated could be adapted to treadle operation, and the drill press plans would work well using a breast brace.
> As to "Jigs & Fixtures", among other things, there are lathe mounted sanding discs and sanding table for the banjo mount. (Does anyone REALLY enjoy hand sanding EVERY thing….??? A treadle lathe would benefit from these) and a nifty clamping jig for coping saw work with the material being held in place by a cam lever.
> For the six dollars and change I spent for it on Amazon, there is a LOT of information in this nifty little book.
> 
> - olegrump


No fear of Power Tool Purgatory, Olegrump. As long as these can be converted to human power … I'm down with it. Remember, I just don't like electricity … LOL! Thanks for the reference … I'll have to get a copy, too!


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## RonAylor1760

> Because I build models, I use jigs and fixtures all the time, mostly to make duplicate parts. While I m basically a power tool guy, I still use a lot of hand tools. My jigs are usually one off. I make it, use it then scrap it. I have written about the use of jigs and fixtures previously and I repeat; they are the key to accurate woodworking, whether it be hand or machine work.
> 
> - MrRon


Very well said, MrRon. I agree wholeheartedly!


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## RonAylor1760

Sorry, Dave, I'm a couple months late responding to your post #44 …

Your low bench is awesome, and is great for using one's body for work holding. I also like your octagonalizer … quite ingenious! I too use the hand screw trick from time to time. I have also taken bar clamps apart and run them up through the dog holes on the bench and reassembled them for work holding. You just need to be careful not to gouge your forehead with the metal bar sticking up from the bench … LOL!


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## DavePolaschek

I can't claim that my octagonalizer is original (though I think the name is). The Schwarz published a note about a similar thing at some point, and I just made my version. But it gets used a *lot* in the shop.

As for the forehead on the metal bar sticking out of the bench, the flatulence slots in my five-board bench are big enough to put a clamp through with no disassembly, and that gets used as an impromptu bench now, too. I generally try to orient the clamp so the metal bar is aimed down when possible so I have less chance of putting an eye out with that thing. :-/


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## bandit571

Just digging around..









Mortise jig…









Saw jig…









Helping hand during a glue up….three bits of pine scrap, and a few screws.


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## RonAylor1760

> I can't claim that my octagonalizer is original (though I think the name is). The Schwarz published a note about a similar thing at some point, and I just made my version. But it gets used a *lot* in the shop.
> 
> As for the forehead on the metal bar sticking out of the bench, the flatulence slots in my five-board bench are big enough to put a clamp through with no disassembly, and that gets used as an impromptu bench now, too. I generally try to orient the clamp so the metal bar is aimed down when possible so I have less chance of putting an eye out with that thing. :-/
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Ah yes … the flatulence slots … priceless!


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## RonAylor1760

Bandit … I still have issues with running screws into my bench top … I do not want to mar such a pristine surface … LOL!


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## bandit571

Yeah…right…...

I suppose one could install a dog to the underside of that mortise jig….instead of screws….


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## RonAylor1760

For the last week I've been putting together little half-blind dovetailed drawers for a twenty drawer hardware cabinet I'm building for my shop. I've thrown together a couple of jigs to assure all the drawers come out the same.










Firstly, a simple little drawer pull locator consisting of a scrap of mahogany and overlapping maple edge-banding. I have two different width drawers; 3-1/8" and 4-1/16". This little jig allows for perfect placement (1-1/32" down from top and centered on the width) without having to measure each drawer front.










Secondly, a square chisel guide to help square up the the dovetails on the 1/4" thick drawer sides … making for perfect joints on every drawer. The jig is just scraps of walnut, cherry, and pine with a butt hinge, carriage bolt and wingnut. I fashioned a crank of sorts over the wingnut for ease of cinching.










These jigs will have no purpose after the drawers are completed, but they sure make things easier during construction. They took but minutes to make!


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## DavePolaschek

Having purpose built jigs for a repetitive job is just working smart. I'll be building one or two jigs tomorrow morning when I start cutting dovetails for my box for the swap.

Dovetails on 135 degree corners took a little brainwork to figure out, but now that I have, I'll definitely build at least one jig so I don't confuse myself halfway through the build.


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## RonAylor1760

> Having purpose built jigs for a repetitive job is just working smart. I'll be building one or two jigs tomorrow morning when I start cutting dovetails for my box for the swap.
> 
> Dovetails on 135 degree corners took a little brainwork to figure out, but now that I have, I'll definitely build at least one jig so I don't confuse myself halfway through the build.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Good luck with those corners, Dave. I do hope you post your jig here when you have time.


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## DavePolaschek

Didn't get the jig built over the weekend. Cut the tails (and cut past the baseline when using the coping saw to remove waste), and then spent the rest of my shop-time grinding a ding out of my jack-plane blade (hit the metal planing stop with it. Oops!) and cleaning up the plane. Decided I was making too many mistakes to keep working on the box, though.

Got the first glue-up of the jig done this morning. Basically it's a couple blocks of wood cut so I can hold a piece of wood angled back 45 degrees in my face vise. Once that's done, cutting the pins should be a relative piece of cake. Photos will follow once I've proved to myself that it works.


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## RonAylor1760

> Didn't get the jig built over the weekend. Cut the tails (and cut past the baseline when using the coping saw to remove waste), and then spent the rest of my shop-time grinding a ding out of my jack-plane blade (hit the metal planing stop with it. Oops!) and cleaning up the plane. Decided I was making too many mistakes to keep working on the box, though.
> 
> Got the first glue-up of the jig done this morning. Basically it's a couple blocks of wood cut so I can hold a piece of wood angled back 45 degrees in my face vise. Once that's done, cutting the pins should be a relative piece of cake. Photos will follow once I've proved to myself that it works.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


WOW … sounds like you need a vacation! Hope the jig works.


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## DavePolaschek

No vacation in the near future, but my sweetie will be out of town for a week at the end of the month, so I expect I'll get a lot of progress those evenings. Tomorrow morning I screw and glue the rest of the jig together so it can dry while I'm working. Thursday and Friday I'll make the scratch-stock to bead the edges…. There's still a lot to be done, but there's also a full month to do it.


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## RonAylor1760

> No vacation in the near future, but my sweetie will be out of town for a week at the end of the month, so I expect I'll get a lot of progress those evenings. Tomorrow morning I screw and glue the rest of the jig together so it can dry while I'm working. Thursday and Friday I'll make the scratch-stock to bead the edges…. There's still a lot to be done, but there's also a full month to do it.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Sounds like you have a plan. Safe travels for your sweetie and be careful working at home alone!


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## DavePolaschek

> Safe travels for your sweetie and be careful working at home alone!


I don't remember the exact words, but my memory of her instructions is that if I'm going to try and kill myself in the shop while she's not around, I'd better finish the job, or she will when she gets back. ;-)

Here's the jig.



















A little sliding dovetail keeps the pieces aligned and it'll let me clamp a piece in my face vise angled 45 degrees forward or back. Chunk of twobuhfour, a deck screw, and some glue. The little sliding dovetail won't give me a ton of clamping force, but it should hold well enough, and if I ever do another of these, I'll make it from oak instead.


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## RonAylor1760

> I don't remember the exact words, but my memory of her instructions is that if I'm going to try and kill myself in the shop while she's not around, I'd better finish the job, or she will when she gets back. ;-)
> 
> Here's the jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little sliding dovetail keeps the pieces aligned and it'll let me clamp a piece in my face vise angled 45 degrees forward or back. Chunk of twobuhfour, a deck screw, and some glue. The little sliding dovetail won't give me a ton of clamping force, but it should hold well enough, and if I ever do another of these, I'll make it from oak instead.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


LOL … my bride would say the same thing!

Very interesting jig … perhaps a photo or two of it in use when you get that far. Thanks, Dave!


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## DavePolaschek

> Very interesting jig … perhaps a photo or two of it in use when you get that far.


Definitely. It'll get used this weekend, and I'll take action pictures. I had the thought as I was driving to work that a couple wooden pegs (toothpicks?) down through the sliding dovetail might strengthen things up nicely.

I'm a little proud that even though it's not especially pretty, my sliding dovetail "straight off the saw" is a good enough fit that it works. A month ago, I would've had to cut a piece out of a different block of wood, rather that cutting out the tail, and just gluing that to the other piece as a rail.


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## DavePolaschek

Made a doe's foot today. Here it is braced against my metal planing stop and the edge of the bench. Holds irregularly-shaped pieces of wood surprisingly well.










I did have to plane it down quite a bit in thickness. It was half-inch poplar, and I'm planing quarter-inch stock, but poplar is pretty easy to plane. Only took about ten minutes.


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## theoldfart

I have a couple of versions of that. One has built in dogs to fit my bench. The other is a vintage metal one with a moveable wedge. I have a third one that is designed to hold thin stock on edge.

They are really versatile work holders.


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## DavePolaschek

Yeah, I've been meaning to make a few for a while Kevin, but I've been managing with other things. Today nothing else would hold the bit of box-to-be that i was trying to plane, so I whipped that up.

I'll probably make one with dogs to fit my low bench too, but that's going to require clearing off some stuff first, so maybe not until I finish with the box for the swap.


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## theoldfart

Dave, this one gets used the most


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## DavePolaschek

> Very interesting jig … perhaps a photo or two of it in use when you get that far. Thanks, Dave!


Here are the promised action photos.














































And the first production set of 135 degree dovetails, straight off the saw:



















Pretty gappy, but that's due to a wander with the coping saw while cutting the tails. Knew that was going to be a problem before I started on the "pins."


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## RonAylor1760

Thanks for the action shots. The jig makes perfect sense to me now. Sorry about your runaway coping saw. You might consider a version of this little chisel guide …


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## DavePolaschek

I use something like that while cleaning up the dovetails, Ron. But I try to saw them so cleanup is one or two paring strokes with the chisel and I'm done. And for some reason, the coping saw just got away from me last week I'll probably end up cutting out even more wood and the putting in a little patch.

The only problem with the jig is that I should've made it wider. Maybe I'll use a fourbuhfour next time. It works pretty well, but can sometime twist in the vise a little, especially when I'm cutting out the waste between pins. Always room for improvement.


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## bandit571

Mortise jig was in action today..









Also works as a third hand..









Just three pieces of scrap. A few screws, as I need to change the uprights when the part's thickness changes.

Attached right over the bench's leg….no bouncing allowed.









Visegrip Fingerclamp pliers to clamp things in place…easier to move parts around…


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## RonAylor1760

> I use something like that while cleaning up the dovetails, Ron. But I try to saw them so cleanup is one or two paring strokes with the chisel and I'm done. And for some reason, the coping saw just got away from me last week I'll probably end up cutting out even more wood and the putting in a little patch.
> 
> The only problem with the jig is that I should've made it wider. Maybe I'll use a fourbuhfour next time. It works pretty well, but can sometime twist in the vise a little, especially when I'm cutting out the waste between pins. Always room for improvement.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


 I gave up on trying to get close to the line with a fret saw … I leave about 1/16" and take a few strokes with the chisel using the chisel guide. I still get gaps from time to time, but they are minuscule. Good luck with the patch!


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

This is something I rigged together one day and have found that I reach for it quite often. Love the old hand screws and what you can do with them.

I took one of the screws out of the body and flipped it so both can be used from above and fashioned an octangle post with a bridle joint. This was made up in a hurry so I figured it best to put a clamp at the bridle and refine it later if it was worth the time. The faces have leather glued on for a soft grip and the post can be pulled up, twisted or faced for the best angle for comfort to the tool. If I do take the time to refine this setup I've had it in mind to make another one laminated three widths wide with a single pair of screws at the center.



















I


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## DavePolaschek

Clever! I need more hand-screws.


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## HammerSmith

> - TheTurtleCarpenter


That's cool rig! I love it!


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## RonAylor1760

> This is something I rigged together one day and have found that I reach for it quite often. Love the old hand screws and what you can do with them.
> 
> I took one of the screws out of the body and flipped it so both can be used from above and fashioned an octangle post with a bridle joint. This was made up in a hurry so I figured it best to put a clamp at the bridle and refine it later if it was worth the time. The faces have leather glued on for a soft grip and the post can be pulled up, twisted or faced for the best angle for comfort to the tool. If I do take the time to refine this setup I ve had it in mind to make another one laminated three widths wide with a single pair of screws at the center.
> 
> - TheTurtleCarpenter


Great use of a hand screw. The octagonal post makes all the difference. Very clever!


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## theoldfart

I buy any used hand screw clamps I can find at the flea market. I have a preference for the wooden screw types.










Hmmm, just realized I didn't reset the clock for DST!


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## CL810

Very clever TC!


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## theoldfart

Turtle, this would possibly work with your screw clamps. I made this to give me unlimited positioning for carving


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## RonAylor1760

> Turtle, this would possibly work with your screw clamps. I made this to give me unlimited positioning for carving
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> - theoldfart


Ah … a carved shell drawer front! Kevin, this would look great on a lowboy! 

Show us some more photos of your jig … very interesting!


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## theoldfart

Ron, it's just a block of DF, drilled and cut in half.


















The rest is a 1 1/8" oak dowel with a 2×4x1" oak plate attached. I used turners double sided tape to hold the work piece


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## RonAylor1760

> Ron, it s just a block of DF, drilled and cut in half.
> 
> The rest is a 1 1/8" oak dowel with a 2×4x1" oak plate attached. I used turners double sided tape to hold the work piece
> 
> - theoldfart


Awesome … and you find the tape is strong enough to hold the piece being carved? Very clever!


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## theoldfart

The tape is bomber (and expensive!)

I made a small improvement by adding a groove and rubber band to keep everything together when it's not in the leg vise. It is working well however I was a little too aggressive clamping it while I made the groove and cracked it. It still works really well but at some time I'll remake it with harder stock.


















I can't take credit for the design, googled carving vise plans and found it.


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## RonAylor1760

Thanks for the extra photos, Kevin. Can't wait to see the shell on the low-boy!


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## 8iowa

Keep it simple to start with. A bench hook and shooting board are easy to make. You'll need a no. 5 hand plane with a "scary" sharp blade and a good backsaw.

I like to watch Frank Clasusz's videos. He especially can teach you how to hand cut dovetails.


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## RonAylor1760

> Keep it simple to start with. A bench hook and shooting board are easy to make. You ll need a no. 5 hand plane with a "scary" sharp blade and a good backsaw.
> 
> I like to watch Frank Clasusz s videos. He especially can teach you how to hand cut dovetails.
> 
> - 8iowa


A bench hook was the first fixture I made. Also made a shooting board, but hardly use it anymore. Once I acquired the skill of sawing squarely to a line, I get by with placing the work-piece on end in the leg vise and taking a few strokes with a file or light pass with a bench plane, to clean up end grain.


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## RonAylor1760

I cleaned up the old scrap bin this afternoon and found two new shop fixtures!










A mortising block …










The block has a fence that can be held in the vise while the work-piece rests on the bench.










And a planing board for thin stock …










A keel to hold it in the vise and a 1/8" high stop to secure the work-piece.


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## theoldfart

Useful jigs Ron.


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## RPhillips

> This is something I rigged together one day and have found that I reach for it quite often. Love the old hand screws and what you can do with them.
> 
> I took one of the screws out of the body and flipped it so both can be used from above and fashioned an octangle post with a bridle joint. This was made up in a hurry so I figured it best to put a clamp at the bridle and refine it later if it was worth the time. The faces have leather glued on for a soft grip and the post can be pulled up, twisted or faced for the best angle for comfort to the tool. If I do take the time to refine this setup I ve had it in mind to make another one laminated three widths wide with a single pair of screws at the center.
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> - TheTurtleCarpenter


I did something similar for making handles…but putting both handles on the same side is genius. Must do the same the next use. Thanks for sharing.


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## DavePolaschek

Built a guillotine this morning. I'll probably write it up in my Handy Tools blog series, but here's the quick pictures.



















It will cut at 90+/-22.5 degrees, which my brain thinks is the correct angle to miter octagonal corners. At least one of them is. I think.


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## RonAylor1760

Interesting, Dave … what are you cutting with this guillotine?


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## DavePolaschek

I've got some inlay banding I'm using to spiff up the box I'm building. Here's a photo of some test scraps.










It's thin enough that a utility knife blade will go through it with a smart rap from a mallet. Makes getting the corners right a lot easier.


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## builtinbkyn

> I've got some inlay banding I'm using to spiff up the box I'm building. Here's a photo of some test scraps.
> 
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> It's thin enough that a utility knife blade will go through it with a smart rap from a mallet. Makes getting the corners right a lot easier.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave is this a teaser or a reveal?  Looking good!


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## DavePolaschek

It's a tease, Bill. The box in the background is not the box you are looking for.

(It's actually the box that the LN #51 shoot board plane comes in)

Nice try, though! ;-)


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## builtinbkyn

> It's a tease, Bill. The box in the background is not the box you are looking for.
> 
> (It's actually the box that the LN #51 shoot board plane comes in)
> 
> Nice try, though! ;-)
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


LOL well it's a nice box all the same


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## DavePolaschek

Yeah, I was a little surprised by it. Couldn't even play with my new toys without finding a screwdriver to open it up. Tsk!


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## RonAylor1760

Good looking inlay there, Dave, can't wait to see the box! I'm currently working on an 18th century tenoning vise and chairmarker's saw.


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## DavePolaschek

Thanks, Ron. I bought it from inlaybanding.com's odd lots page on a lark back before Christmas. Decided I'd see how it was and fiddle with it. Glad I did, and it's been part of the plan for the box almost from the get-go.

It probably disqualifies me from the complete galoots club, but then again, I use electric lights, too. ;-) And it's pretty, so there's that.


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## RonAylor1760

> Thanks, Ron. I bought it from inlaybanding.com's odd lots page on a lark back before Christmas. Decided I'd see how it was and fiddle with it. Glad I did, and it's been part of the plan for the box almost from the get-go.
> 
> It probably disqualifies me from the complete galoots club, but then again, I use electric lights, too. ;-) And it's pretty, so there s that.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


WOW … I thought you put it together via the guillotine! I'll keep it hush hush. Maybe the other 253,651 members won't read this!


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## DavePolaschek

> WOW … I thought you put it together via the guillotine! I'll keep it hush hush. Maybe the other 253,651 members won't read this!


I won't reach that level of galoothood until I retire, if ever. Meanwhile, I'm willing to let other people use power tools to make stuff for me. ;-)


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## RonAylor1760

> I won't reach that level of galoothood until I retire, if ever. Meanwhile, I'm willing to let other people use power tools to make stuff for me. ;-)
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Touché!


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## RonAylor1760

I'm gearing up for a side table build and thought I'd make a tenoning clamp and chairmaker's tenon saw!










Check out the project page for details. Thanks!


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## DavePolaschek

Nice clamp and saw, Ron. You've added another thing to my to-build list.


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## bandit571

Not really a jig…..but it is a fixture..









As it "fixes" all but one brace into one place….the 14" sweep Stanley was just too big…

Roughed out…will add a few more details when I get back in the shop….









Right now it just sits on the bench….may add a shelf here, or a shelf and drawers on the top, just to keep the dust off…have to remove a lot of junk/stuff to get a home for the til..









Spring Cleaning?


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## RonAylor1760

WOW, Bandit … That's a lot of braces! I only have four …




  






... one for pilot holes, one for a countersink, one for whatever hole I need at the time, and …




  






... one in my handcrank drill press.


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## Mr_Pink

Now you need a fifth brace set up as a screwdriver.


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## RonAylor1760

> Now you need a fifth brace set up as a screwdriver.
> 
> - Mr_Pink


HA! I actually have two screwdriver bits in the rack above the braces. I don't really use them … I just drive screws with a regular screwdriver.


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## HammerSmith

> ...
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> ... one in my handcrank drill press.
> 
> - Ron Aylor


Wow Ron! That thing is so crazy it's awesome! I've never seen anything like it, never even heard of it..

Can you post pics of the rest of that table? I'm curious about how the legs are done… looks like a stout little table!


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## HammerSmith

Oh… nevermind… I just found the rest of the pics of that handcrank drill press.. That thing is awesome!


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## RonAylor1760

> Oh… nevermind… I just found the rest of the pics of that handcrank drill press.. That thing is awesome!
> 
> - HammerSmith


Thanks! It works great for drilling holes for mortises. Glad you like it.


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