# Roll Around Tool Cabinet



## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Construction of Case and Milling Hardwood Parts*

My woodshop is in my 3-car garage. Being a garage woodshop I believe as many others do that virtually everything should be mobile. All of my major power equipment are on mobile bases: table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw, floor drill press as well as my workbench and assembly tables.

I have a few items related to my auto mechanic toolsets, toolboxes, etc that I used to just keep on the garage floor. Recently I have stacked them on a 2 by 4 plywood sheet that I have on a roll around dolly. I have decided to build the Woodsmith Roll Around Tool Cabinet plan. This will be a nice large cabinet in which I can store some of my nice tools as well as all of those items I have stacked on that 2 by 4 sheet of plywood.









One of the reasons I chose this cabinet plan is that it will be my first time building anything using frame and panel construction methods. I have watched others construct frame and panels. It seems straight forward but no one can really judge that well until you do the work yourself. That is how I see this. 









Since I have cut, glued and screwed together the case work, I have been milling the lumber parts for the frame and panel work. I can tell all ready that there is a lot of work to it and there are a lot of parts to make. I haven't even started to cut the panels yet.









I think this tool cabinet will be a very worthwhile experience to make. One thing I am learning already is that this tool cabinet will not be cheap. The bills are already mounting up.


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Construction of Case and Milling Hardwood Parts*
> 
> My woodshop is in my 3-car garage. Being a garage woodshop I believe as many others do that virtually everything should be mobile. All of my major power equipment are on mobile bases: table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw, floor drill press as well as my workbench and assembly tables.
> 
> ...


I agree. You will love it but…it is expensive.
I have had the plans for a slant top tool chest for a couple of years but i never built it due the cost compared to a Craftsman metal tool chest from Sears. I went the the Craftsman tool chest (heck of a sale too) and pocketed the rest of the money for a future project.
I was disappointed that I didn't get to build it but that's just one of the give and takes I guess.

Enjoy your build and keep the pictures coming!


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## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Construction of Case and Milling Hardwood Parts*
> 
> My woodshop is in my 3-car garage. Being a garage woodshop I believe as many others do that virtually everything should be mobile. All of my major power equipment are on mobile bases: table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw, floor drill press as well as my workbench and assembly tables.
> 
> ...


As with most new projects of our own, cost can affect the outcome.

Your toolbox is still going to be nice.

I use a lot of salvage wood as that fits my budget the best. It does limit the projects though.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Milling Hardwood: Ripping to Widths and Cross-Cutting to Lengths*

In my previous blog on this project I had fastened the case for this tool cabinet. I had not mentioned how I was able to cut these full 4 by 8 sheets at my table saw. I had made my assembly table prior to purchasing my Saw Stop table saw. I knew from its published dimensioned that the Saw Stop was 34 inches tall. That was the height I made my assembly table. I did that so I could use it as either an infeed or an outfeed table. I also modified my 36 inch tall workbench by removing its 5 inch casters and then building leg supports that would give me a 34 inch tall workbench. To make it mobile I used Wood River workbench caster set. I first used these lever-type casters on my assembly table. I like them. These casters allow me to set my small workbench down on its four legs and allow my bench to be sturdy and still; it will hold its place while I plane parts on its benchtop. I can still move it about by lowering the casters by locking down the levers with my foot. I thought about providing a photo of these casters but the link I provided above to the product will give you an excellent view of they are used.

So with my workbench and my assembly table being the same height as my Saw Stop at 34 inches I can use either or both as infeed and outfeed tables to the saw as shown in the photo below. This is how I was able to cut full sheets; how I was able to handle that cumbersome task by myself.









I also used my Super Sawhorses with the support arm clamped to them to hold the ripped panels at the proper height so I could crosscut these plywood sheets to its specified lengths.









I had chosen to deviate from the Woodsmith plan in a couple of ways.

First, I was going to use full dadoes instead of tongue and groove or dado joinery to fasten the case together. In my experience cutting these tongues (especially) on the ends of a sheet is difficult and they can break off if not done precisely. I know, I have seen the Woodsmith trick of using masking tape on the rip fence to make the groove slightly wider. Gee, I would have to rewatch that trick every time I was going to cut tongue and grooves to get it right. I would rather have a rabbet on the ends. Also I cut my dadoes with a plunge router run up against a fence. Next time I will look at purchasing a jig to hold the router with or against the fence so it does not deviate from the fence. I still got good dadoes to use with this case.

The second deviation from the plan was that I was going to use screws along with glue and clamps to fastren thr case together. I was glad I had chose to use screws on this case. Gluing this larger case together with just glue and clamps was going to be a difficult tasks. That presented itself during my dry fit. Once you introduce glue every thing becomes a bit more difficult. The screws helped me to hold things together properly while I glued and clamped this case together. Of course, during the dry fit process I pre-drilled the screw holes and countersunk those holes.. I will fill these countersink holes with shop made plugs.









I will continue with my tool cabinet blog entries tomorrow morning…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Milling and Cutting My Poplar Hardwood Lumber*

Snow storms here prompted me to purchase much of my poplar lumber at my local big box stores instead of traveling downtown to purchase rough sawn lumber which would have been my preference. I knew by purchasing 3/4 inch thick sanded lumber would give me issues. I became very selective in finding the straightest boards I could find. I was hoping that I would only lose maybe 1/8 inches of thickness instead of typical 1/4 inch with rough sawn lumber. I set my jointer to slice very thin amounts and checked each pass to determine when I reach a flat surface. Of course, to do that I use carpenter crayons to "paint" th surfaces I am jointing or planing.










I first cut the face frame parts so I could clamp them to the case. I did this so I could measure and check the measurements from the plan to the actual case I fastened together. I had cut the rails for this face frame a bit long. I can always remove more from it length in order to fit it to the case, but I cannot add back its length if I cut them short. By measuring the face frame parts i was satisfied that the case I made was exact dimensioned to th plan so the rest of the face frame and the poplar parts could be cut per the plan's dimensions.

I went about cutting all my my hardwood parts for making the "frame" parts of this frame and panel construction. Cutting the grooves to fit the panels is a step I will take on later. There were many frame parts to cut.









I also milled and ripped to width the drawers parts I would need for seven drawers. Instead of using hard maple for the drawer parts per the plan, I opted to use 1/2 inch poplar. I actually purchased these lumber parts at my local Lowe's store. They sell 1/2 inch thick poplar lumber in 3 and 4 foot lengths. Again, I selected their straightest and flattest boards. The 3, 4, 5 and 7 inch wide 1/2 inch thick drawer parts are included in the image above. I intend to cut through dovetails for each drawer and I will resaw a 8/4 sapele board to use as false drawer fronts to make the drawer fronts look like half blind dovetails.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*

One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.

I began the process of using loose tenons by cutting the materials. During my prior milling process I had already ripped poplar parts to 1/4 inch thickness by resawing it on my table saw. I determined the widths my my loose tenons by taking the widths of my face frame's rails. With the 1/4 inch thick strips, I ripped the widths I needed for the two tenon widths. Then I setup my router table and used a 1/8 inch roundover bit. After testing this setup with a scrap piece, I rounded over the tenon material. I use a padded sandpaper piece to lightly sand the tenon strips so the small ridges, etc where gone, or smooth.









After measuring the maximum length of the 1/4" upcut router bit I could get with the bit seated in my plunge router, I decided on the length of my tenons and thusly the depth of my mortises. 









With a stop block I cut the lengths of these loose tenons using my crosscut sled on my table saw.









Since this was the first time I have used this router mortising jig, I had a few things to fix with the knobs, etc. Two threaded bolts were a bit long. I marked their flush position on the back of the plate and cut them with my hacksaw. The toggle clamp block interfered with the knob I use to adjust the the panel that holds the rail up and tight against the top panel that houses the plunge router. I trimmed that edge of the block using my Incra miter gauge set at 45 degrees since that edge was at that angle and cut about 3/16 inches off at the table saw. It worked. The knob I needed to turn had its clearance. 









This day was a long one. So far I was only testing the mortising jig on a scrap pieces. I will finish that process tomorrow, Tuesday.

I put all of my equipment and tables back into their storage spots. I drove my vehicles back into the garage so the snow storm coming wouldn't dump on them overnight.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*
> 
> One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.
> 
> ...


vehicles in the garage…i don't get it


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## SteveMI (May 19, 2009)

HappyHowie said:


> *Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*
> 
> One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.
> 
> ...





> vehicles in the garage…i don t get it
> - Notw


+1


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*
> 
> One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.
> 
> ...


All I can say is that this arrangement works for both of us: the boss and me… She just said: "That was the deal"...


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*
> 
> One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.
> 
> ...


The picture below shows a good fit of the scrap pieces. 









I can tell that I must keep track of the face sides so if anything is off from center that the parts will fit flush…

Let's work on the real parts.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*
> 
> One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.
> 
> ...


I will finish my blog entries on the face frame right here.

I did. I placed a carpenter's triangle on the two stiles so I would remember which one was left and the other right. Also on the rails I did the same thing so I know which piece is the top rail from the bottom. The center rail is easy to tell but with the arks it also establishes which end is left and which is right.

Since the pencils marks were placed on the face or front sides then it is easy to know how to mount the parts on the jig: always keep the face side facing outwards!

I routed the end grain of the rails first. Since the top and bottom rails were the same size I did those one right after the other. I did not need to adjust my stop fences for the jig this way. After completing the center rail I took a mental note that routing the end grain gives the sensation of be resistive; like you are packing the dust upon piles of dust.

Next I turned to routing mortises in the stiles. Again set the jig for the center rail. Once the first was routed, I then mounted the second stile and routed the center rail. After that I would roug the top and then botton mortises.









With the loose tenons fitted into the rail's mortises I then did a dry fit of the entire face frame. When I glue this together I must remember to use my Titebond III glue since it has a longer set time. i will need the extra time to clamp the rails and stile flush to the case, at the right spots.









LESSONS LEARNED:
Routing mortises and making loose tenons takes a lot of time. I know this was my first time performing these tasks so I expect with more practice or experience I can reduce the amount time significantly. Enough to compete with pocket screws? Most likely not, but for face frames on shop made cabinets why wouldn't you use packet screws? In this case, I wanted to learn and evaluate loose tenon joinery. I learned what I needed to know. I have not regrets.

At some point I will also need to put my shop made horizontal mortiser to a good test, but not today. (Note: you can see where I keep my horizontal mortiser in the photo above: its just to the right of this case. Well, you kind of have to know what to look for. I have plans to put that stand on a mobile base.)

I have a face frame to glue and clamp together.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame*
> 
> One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven't done loose tenons until now. I have built several jigs to route mortises but really I have not put them to use. Now I will. I really intend to learn this process.
> 
> ...


My glue up was straight forward. Prior to gluing I marked the alignment location where the center rail's top edge met the stiles. Those locations were to insure that the top of the rail would be flush with the plywood shelf. 









Some of this alignment depends on muscling simply pushing or pulling the rail piece to the plywood shelf. I will use my pin nailer, 23 gauge gun to hold those locations when I glue the face frame to the case, or carcase. I suspect I will do that glue up early tomorrow.









I had a good day.

I appreciate all of your comments. I had fun teasing my Annie; just a little bit. She has been so supportive of my woodworking efforts. Very supportive. Making sure she had a place to park her car at night "was the deal". Actually, I drive her car in every night if I had been working in the shop that day, and it is most days I am doing something fun.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*My Plan for Tomorrow: Wednesday January 25*

What is the plan tomorrow?

Well, here is my list which I will report on after the day's work is done.

1) Sand the face frame then glue, pin and clamp it to the carcase.
2) Make hardwood plugs to fill the countersunk screw holes, glue them in place.
3) With a scrap piece of poplar test the saw blade height of 3/8 inches for cutting the center grooves on the poplar frame pieces. And, then cut those center grooves. First, centered on all parts and then with the rip fence adjusted, widen the center groove so a 1/4 inch Baltic Birch plywood fits snuggly.
4) With the grooves ripped, measure the dimensions for the panels and cut those panels on the table saw.
5) On the table saw cut the stub tenons for the frame parts to fit together with the panels.
6) I will take the 1/2 inch thick poplar boards that have been ripped already to their widths and crosscut them to the final lengths to make my seven drawers.
7) I will layout these drawers for through dovetails.










I will investigate further than I have prior to now on how to cut dovetails on my table saw. There is a Fine Woodworking Magazine article written by Gregory Paolini that explains how to cut dovetails on the table saw. I have been interested in learning and cutting dovetails with that method. Why not do it here with this project? Afterwards I will evaluate if I enjoy this method or not. If I like it and plan to use it more in the near future I will purchase the special saw blade that has its teeth filed to a specified angle so the kerf is flat at the top even though the blade has been tilted at the table saw.

The point of this method is to use power equipment but to make the pins thin so they appear to be hand cut dovetails. I 'll see how well I do.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *My Plan for Tomorrow: Wednesday January 25*
> 
> What is the plan tomorrow?
> 
> ...


How did the table saw dovetails go?


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *My Plan for Tomorrow: Wednesday January 25*
> 
> What is the plan tomorrow?
> 
> ...


Mark, I was so displeased with my lack of skill to make dovetails on the table saw that I abandoned the process during my test phase of cutting dovetails. All during these tests I was using scrap wood milled to the same dimensions as my drawer parts.

Frankly, I ran out of patience.

I need to return to testing this process, but I will do that after I complete this tool cabinet project. I did not want to ruin the drawers on this project. I am putting my heart and soul into this project by wanting it to turn out as well as I can do any woodworking at this stage of my experience, or lack of it.

One thing that frustrated me was after returning my Freud RIP blade back to its vertical position on my Saw Stop table saw, I thought I had its height dialed in and locked so the saw kerf was just hitting the knife mark for the pin's depth. The cuts I made to match the dovetail cut lines looked good so the dovetail board would fit tightly and all the way down to the its depth. However, when I began cutting the waste it appeared that my saw blade had dropped a fraction. That perplexed me. I was sure I had the height setting locked in on my Saw Stop. I began doubting my memory, my self-worth. My reason for being…

It was while I was brooding over this issue that I decided I would not pursue cutting the dovetails for my seven drawers for this project on my table saw. Instead, I was going to speed up my drawer making by returning to my tried and true method cutting dovetails with my Leigh D4R JIG. That is what I did. I am pleased with the dovetails I cut with the Leigh JIG. I have left this "dovetails cut on the table saw" issue for another time.

So I have hung the L-fences I made for cutting dovetails on the table saw for the time being on my JIG north wall. At some future point in time I will return to testing and working out the "bugs" of this process. I guess I carved out too many "first time" processes for this project. I eliminated one of those and happy that I did. My troubled mind got rid of one of my worries…


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *My Plan for Tomorrow: Wednesday January 25*
> 
> What is the plan tomorrow?
> 
> ...


I use the Leigh jig as well, it just seems to make more sense to me then using the table saw. I could not quite get how the saw would not leave tell tale traces at the base of the dovetails no matter what grind the teeth had, unless the teeth were custom ground to math the angles of the dovetails?


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Face Frame Attached and Plugs for Countersink Screw Holes*

Time passed quickly today. I was only able to fasten the face frame to the cabinet case and plug the countersink screw holes today. However, it was a good day. I will use my hand plane to shave some of the excess width of the face frame tomorrow. There is a small fraction that needs to be trimmed. 



























Also I started to pare flush the plugs. The remainder will be finished tomorrow.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *Face Frame Attached and Plugs for Countersink Screw Holes*
> 
> Time passed quickly today. I was only able to fasten the face frame to the cabinet case and plug the countersink screw holes today. However, it was a good day. I will use my hand plane to shave some of the excess width of the face frame tomorrow. There is a small fraction that needs to be trimmed.
> 
> ...


Have you found that a flush cut saw doesn't work in this situation?


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Face Frame Attached and Plugs for Countersink Screw Holes*
> 
> Time passed quickly today. I was only able to fasten the face frame to the cabinet case and plug the countersink screw holes today. However, it was a good day. I will use my hand plane to shave some of the excess width of the face frame tomorrow. There is a small fraction that needs to be trimmed.
> 
> ...


The flush cut saw worked fine, but it only got the plugs part of the way. Maybe I did not cut it closer to this plywood veneer with the flush cut saw because I was afraid of marking or cutting the plywood's veneer. You can probably tell I was worried about my technique or lack thereof because of the sandpaper I used to wedge between the saw and the plywood veneer.

My long Narex paring chisel though worked perfectly. I have no worries using it. I guess I could have gone straight to Narex chisel instead of using my flush cut hand saw.

I believe I have Narex chisel as sharp as it can be by learning how to sharpen recently using my Sharpton glass stones. In the Woodcraft sharpening class I took I also learned the value of fine tuning my blades and cutting edges by using a leather strop. I go to the strop often with my hand chisels to get a sharp edge now. I find I can get my chisels very sharp using the strop before needing to use my sharpening stones.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

HappyHowie said:


> *Face Frame Attached and Plugs for Countersink Screw Holes*
> 
> Time passed quickly today. I was only able to fasten the face frame to the cabinet case and plug the countersink screw holes today. However, it was a good day. I will use my hand plane to shave some of the excess width of the face frame tomorrow. There is a small fraction that needs to be trimmed.
> 
> ...


Yeah that thin veneer is a good reason to be cautious, and I kind of thought that is why you had the cardboard spacer there, but I thought maybe you had had a bad experience with the flush cut saw…but it is clear that you haven't because you take these kind of sensible precautions LOL! I think a sharp chisel is often a better solution anyway as I feel it gives you more control of how the wood is removed.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Frame Parts: Grooves and Stub Tenons*

The last few days I have been milling and producing the frame parts for this frame and panel construction tool cabinet.









The frame and panels are placed on the back of the case and the four doors on the front on the case; the two small doors on the top that cover adjustable shelves and the two large or long doors below. Inside these two long doors are seven drawers on the right side of the case and several adjustable shelves on the left side of the case.









The drawers consist of a large or deep drawer on the bottom that will be 7 1/4 inches tall, then two drawers on top of that with each being 5 inches tall or deep, then two drawers 4 inches deep and lastly two drawers that are 3 inches deep.









This tool cabinet is being built on four lockable casters 4 inches tall. I am following the Woodsmith Roll Around Tool Cabinet plan published in their Shop Notes Library.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Cut 1/4" Panels and Dry Fit Frames and Panels*

I setup my small workbench as an in-feed for my table saw and my assembly table as its out-feed table so I could manage my 4 by 8 foot 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood sheet. First I ripped a strip 18 1/2" wide. 









With this strip I would trim the width further plus cross the seven drawer bottoms. With my circular saw I crosscut and end from the remaining sheet approximately 30 inches in length. The four 4 inch by 28 1/2 inch panels for the long drawer would be cut at the table saw. Plus I also used my circular saw to cut another end of the remaining sheet from which I would cut the two upper door panels at the table saw.









The remaining portion of the sheet I cut the back panels for the cabinet. So the image below shows the panels that were cut to lengths and width for the frame and panel structure.









With the panels cuts I began to dry fit the frame and panels. The imag below shows the two long doors stacked on top of each other.









The two small doors on the front of the cabinet is shown in the image below.









The back frame panel dry fitted is shown below.









After dry fitting all of the frame and panels I began sanding the parts with 120 grit. I will finish sanding these parts tomorrow with 220. From that I will begin gluing and clamping these frame and panels together.

LESSONS LEARNED
There is a lot of work milling and cutting the frame parts for frame and panel construction. The panels cut quickly as long as you know their dimensions. With this Woodsmith plan I had those measurements. Only with the small door panels did I find I had to trim two edges to get the frames to match precisely. The fun or enjoyment comes from fitting the frames around the panels which I did with these dry fits. Since I milled my frame parts in two separate processes, I had some of the frame parts a bit thicker than the others. I notice this during my dry fitting phase. To get the frames to match in thickness, I used my #6 bench plane to shave the top and bottom surfaces until I had it thickness the same as the thinner parts for the frame. There were only a few parts that I had to size in this manner.


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## revrok (May 1, 2014)

HappyHowie said:


> *Cut 1/4" Panels and Dry Fit Frames and Panels*
> 
> I setup my small workbench as an in-feed for my table saw and my assembly table as its out-feed table so I could manage my 4 by 8 foot 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood sheet. First I ripped a strip 18 1/2" wide.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely… It'll be good to see the finished cabinet!


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Frame and Panel Back and Doors Glued and Clamped*

After sanding all frame and panel parts to 220 grit, I dry fitted the back and doors again. My glue up of the back frame and panel was going to be done on my large assembly table. I knew this glue up would take a lot of time and patience. I selected Titebond III glue for its longer setup time.









I would use my long pipe clamps for the long length clamping needs. The pipe clamps would be used to close the frames onto the panels so they would be seated firmly together. Width-wise I would be using my 48 inch long Jorgensen F-style clamps along the frame parts that span the width of the back panel. From my dry-fit tests I knew if I clamped the frames tightly to the panels that the whole back would be fitted together squarely.









The small and large doors would be glued up on my small workbench. I would be using my parallel clamps for these doors.









I did not want to leave these frame and panel doors and back under extreme clamping pressure for very long. I was afraid too much pressure in the clamps would cause some cupping. I did initially apply pressure so the frames and panels would seat well; thus, make the frame and panels squarely formed and glued together. I backed off the clamping pressure once I knew the parts had seated well together.










I will let the glue dry overnight before working on them further in order to hang the doors on the case's face frame.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Fastened Frame and Panel Back onto Case*

Again rehearsing dry clamping procedure helps to determine the best way to clamp this back to the case. What I learned was that I needed two long pipe clamps in order to make sure the frame and the case went together squarely. Plus I needed about a 1/8" thin shim piece on the bottom right side of the case just below the face frame so enough of the face frame would be proud of the case all along the right side of that case. 









Once the clamping solution was determined in the dry fit, I unfastened the clamps, applied Titebond I glue, placed the frame and panel back onto the case, then applied the clamping solution. 









I decided to shoot pin nails into the back frame panel so I could remove the clamps.

I also should report that I had done some study on what hinges I should use on this tool cabinet's four doors. The Woodsmith plan used H & L barn door type hinges. From the search I made for purchasing these hinge types their cost could have been at least $16 each. The plan did not specify the size of the HL hinges but from the images it looked like they were about 3 inches in height. I would have to order these hinges sight unseen over the Internet. Instead I made a trip to my local Woodcraft store to survey what they might have that would work with this cabinet. My analysis came down to two alternatives: Euro inset hinges and a sized right butt hinge.

I have installed inset Euro hinges before on other projects. I knew that these hinges would require that I drill a hole 1/2 inches deep into the door's frame. I decided against using Euro hinges. My door frames were made from 3/4" sanded lumber. After milling these boards the thickness of my door frames were probably 5/8 or 11/16 inches thick. I did not want to drill a hole that deep into these thin door frames.

I liked the mortised black butt hinges I found. Their costs was $12.00 each. I bought eight for the four doors.

This will be my first time installing butt hinges. I will be mortising in the hinges. I have watched a Fine Woodworking Magazine YouTube instruction for using a mortising jig.

I have also printed a few articles from their magazine. One of those articles is a Gregory Paolini article for cutting dovetails on the table saw.

I ordered a mortising straight bit with a 1/4 inch shaft. It will be delivered here Monday. I had also bought a similar straight pattern bit but with a 1/2 inch shaft. At this late stage of the project I will need to use my small Bosch Colt router since it has a smaller base that I will be able to mortise the hinge into the face frame that is already fastened to the plywood case. I could use the 1/2 inch shaft bit for mortising the hinges on the doors, but the 1/4" shaft will be needed for the face frame.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Fastened Frame and Panel Back onto Case*
> 
> Again rehearsing dry clamping procedure helps to determine the best way to clamp this back to the case. What I learned was that I needed two long pipe clamps in order to make sure the frame and the case went together squarely. Plus I needed about a 1/8" thin shim piece on the bottom right side of the case just below the face frame so enough of the face frame would be proud of the case all along the right side of that case.
> 
> ...


In order to cut my drawer dovetails on my table saw, I am going to follow a Gregory Paolini article in Fine Woodworking Magazine. This article appeared in the January/ February 2013 issue on pages 46-50. The above reference to a YouTube presentation also demonstrates this article's procedure.

Today I made the two L-shape fences that I will need to cut the dovetails for the side boards and the other fence for cutting the pins on the front and back drawer parts. 









Instead of mounting these fences to my Saw Stop miter gauge, I will mount these fences to my INCRA 1000HD miter gauge. I have determined I will mount these fences per the INCRA manual instructions for mounting a sub-fence to the INCRA miter gauge fence as shown on page 7 of the manual. My local hardware store was closed today so I was lucky that I found the socket head screws specified in the manual: socket head 1/4" - 3/4" long 20 tpi. I believe I have some 1/4 - 20 rectangular nuts in my shop from leftover INCRA supplies. I will countersink the drill holes in these L-fences tomorrow.

Also I have begun wondering if I really want to paint this tool chest. I have enjoyed the grain I have with the poplar hardwood I have used. The case is made from nice maple plywood. I have Charles Neil's Color Recipe book. In it he has a recipe for coloring poplar hardwood so it looks like walnut. I am thinking I may dye this tool cabinet with TransTint dye for a walnut color. To do this Charles first dyes poplar to his medium walnut recipe and then follows that directly with his light walnut recipe. I am going to give this some thought. I know that shop projects should be used for testing different finishes. It might turn out well. We'll see…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Made JIGs Today: Dovetail On Table Saw & Butt Hinge Mortising JIG*

This roll around tool cabinet is a project I took on so I could learn new techniques and processes. This will be my first frame and panel project build. Besides that I have also chosen to use some new techniques in this build.

CUTTING DOVETAILS ON MY TABLE SAW BY USING L-SHAPED FENCE ON MITER GAUGE









I have seen others on the Internet use their table saw to cut dovetails. I will use a Gregory Paolini process to cut my dovetails and pins using L-style fences fastened to my INCRA 1000HD miter gauge. I am following my INCRA miter gauge manual for the instructions to make a sub-fence. I am using those dimensions for drilling the 3/4 inch diameter countersunk screw holes with a Forstner bit to a depth just over 3/8 inches deep and finishing drilling the through holes with a 5/16 inch diameter drill bit.

I expect delivery of the oval flat nuts 1/4" - 20 oval or rectangular nuts I ordered from Amazon.com this Wednesday. Until then I am using extra 7/16" hex nuts I have on hand. I did purchase four 1/4" socket head screw 3/4 inches long - 20 tpi at my local hardware store and additional screws at my local Lowe's store. You can see how those hex nuts are fitted into my aluminum INCRA fence in the photo shown below.









BUTT HINGE MORTISING JIG

I will also be using mortised butt hinges for the first time. So I have studied ways to mortise in the butt hinges. I will be making some simple mortising JIGS, I received my DADO cleaning router bit this morning. I bought it with a 1/4 inch shaft so I could use it with my Bosch Colt router. This router's base is small enough in order to cut these shallow mortises within 1 11/16 inches from the corner of the face frame where the butt hinge will be mounted.

I am building a few simple mortising JIGs so my butt hinges with be flush with the stiles and face frame where they will be installed. As I was laying out the dimensions for this jig I stumbled upon a standard process that I could use in order to move the jig from corner to corner on the face frame to cut the mortises. For instance, on the upper two doors, I wanted to start the mortise as close to the face frame's corner as I could. For these doors that is 1 11/16 inches from the corners. I can fit my Bosch Colt router's base with the 1/2 inch straight bearing guided bit to that position. I measured the length of my butt hinge to a small fraction over 2 inches. Thus, the 1/2 inch thick plywood plate I would cut the following dimensions: 2" plus 2*(1 11/16") equals 5 3/8 inches by 5 inches. The width of the butt hinge is 3/4 inches; however, my face frame is only 5/8 inch thick. Thus, my butt hinges will extend beyond the width of the face frame by about 1/8 inches. This means the hinges will be mortised across the width of the face frame.









On my table saw I will cut a U shaped hole 3/4 inch deep, 2 inches wide centered along the 5 3/8 inch length. Along this length I will glue and fasten with pin brads a fence 7 1/2 inches in length and 2 3/8 inches in width. Centered along its length I will cut a U shaped hole 2 inches long and a width that accounts for the 1/2 inch thickness of the plywood plus the thickness of the butt hinge. I have set my mortising bit to that distance by taking actual measurement by feel: the butt hinge laid on top of the 1/2 inch plywood sitting on top of the router's base. I set the depth of the bit so the bit was flush with these items layered on the router's base.









LARGE BOTTOM DOORS

I decided to start my butt hinges 2 1/2 inches down from the corner of the face frame where my large bottom doors will be hung. Thus, the plywood plate that my router will sit on to route the mortise for the hinge will be dimensioned thusly: 7 inches long by 5 inches wide. The U shaped hole that I will cut on my table saw will be centered along the 7 inch length. Again the butt hinge is 2 inches long and 3/4 inches wide. 









The fence that I will glue and pin to the plate will have its dimensions of 9 inches long and 2 3/8 inches wide.









Since I have a 1 1/2" spacer glued to the inside of my cabinet so I can mount drawer slides in the lower right hand side of the case, I will need to make one more mortising JIG that will take into account this spacer that is proud of the inside of the face frame.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Made JIGs Today: Dovetail On Table Saw & Butt Hinge Mortising JIG*
> 
> This roll around tool cabinet is a project I took on so I could learn new techniques and processes. This will be my first frame and panel project build. Besides that I have also chosen to use some new techniques in this build.
> 
> ...


Today I completed making the third hinge mortising jig. This jig was made for the lower right door hinges for the tool cabinet. On this ride side is where the drawers will be mounted. A 1 1/2" thick spacer was glued on the right side of the cabinet, the plywood side so the drawer slides will mount to it. This spacer is 1/4" proud of the face frame; thus requiring its own hinge mortising JIG. The additional 1/4" needed to mortise the face frame had to be taken into account.

So in summary, I needed three hinge mortising JIGs: one for the two top small doors and two hinge mortising JIGS for the bottom doors, one for the left side and another separate one for the right side door.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Sixteen Hinge Mortises Routed*

With the mortising jigs made, I clamped and routed the butt mortises on the doors.









Once the mortises were routed on the doors, I positioned the doors in the case opening taking into account the gaps I needed when all of the doors were shut. I had shims placed between the face frame and the bottom of the doors to measure these gaps. A few doors I have to hand plane to make the gaps even and the same. Once that was completed I marked the corresponding location of the hinges on the face frame with a pencil.









Special attention had to be given to the mortises where the 1 1/2 inch thick spacers were placed on the bottom righthand side of the case. This is where the drawer slides will be mounted for the full extension drawers. Since the spacers are proud of the face frame's width, the mortising jig and the router bit was about 1/4 inch deeper.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Dovetails Cut on Table Saw is Possible but Time Consuming*

I have spent several hours attempting to cut dovetails on my table saw. I have been using spare milled lumber milled to the same dimensions of my 3 inch tall drawer parts. Cutting the side board dovetails was straight forward. The process was okay. I tilted my saw blade to 8 degrees based on my Wixey digital angle gauge. This angle will be used to cut the dovetails in the side boards. Eight degrees will also be used to angle the fence that will be used to cut the pins in the front and back drawer parts.









Cutting the pins in the front and back parts was a more complicated process for me. The first major issue I discovered was that even though I had not lower or changed the height the attempt to clean out the waste between the kerf edges did not clean out well. I had to use my hand chisels. After working on this it still requires more work. I will work on perfecting this joint more tomorrow. However, I am thinking that the use of a table saw to cut dovetails so the narrow pins can look like their were hand cut will not be a good use of my time. 









I own a Leigh D4R dovetail jig. I have used it often. At this stage of this project, I am inclined to abandon the table saw and pick up my router to cut dovetails for these seven drawers. I will sleep on this tonight and confront my issues on this subject tomorrow.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

HappyHowie said:


> *Dovetails Cut on Table Saw is Possible but Time Consuming*
> 
> I have spent several hours attempting to cut dovetails on my table saw. I have been using spare milled lumber milled to the same dimensions of my 3 inch tall drawer parts. Cutting the side board dovetails was straight forward. The process was okay. I tilted my saw blade to 8 degrees based on my Wixey digital angle gauge. This angle will be used to cut the dovetails in the side boards. Eight degrees will also be used to angle the fence that will be used to cut the pins in the front and back drawer parts.
> 
> ...


I tried that technique as well, based on an article in Fine Woodworking. I quickly abandoned the idea, because it took far too long, and didn't feel safe. You are also cutting to a pencil line for each part, so no more accurate than hand cut dovetails. Well, I suppose you are more likely to get plumb cut pins, but no real control of the pin width.

I have a P.C. 4210, Leigh Superjig, and an Akeda. I use the Akeda.
It makes dovetails that look just like your photo, but they are fun and easy to make. 
Rout one, or rout a hundred… it doesn't matter, they all come out great.

Thanks for posting.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Dovetails Cut on Table Saw is Possible but Time Consuming*
> 
> I have spent several hours attempting to cut dovetails on my table saw. I have been using spare milled lumber milled to the same dimensions of my 3 inch tall drawer parts. Cutting the side board dovetails was straight forward. The process was okay. I tilted my saw blade to 8 degrees based on my Wixey digital angle gauge. This angle will be used to cut the dovetails in the side boards. Eight degrees will also be used to angle the fence that will be used to cut the pins in the front and back drawer parts.
> 
> ...


Although I work in a one-man shop, I do not feel like I am completely alone when I can get great feedback to mu blog posts, like the one above.

So I am not the only one experiencing an extreme learning curve using the table saw jigs to cut dovetails and pins. Hey, for me the dovetail cutting went easy. Cutting the pins though was a different matter. I am not sure what went wrong. More and more practice would reveal what I did, but I am going to reserve that practice time for a later date.

It is puzzling to me why the blade dropped a fraction of an inch after cutting the first saw kerfs on each side of the pin locations. Not being able to clean the waste out with the table saw blade added a lot of time to this machine method. Of course, after noticing the drop I could have adjusted the blade height, but at the time I figured I would proceed with removing the waste with my hand chisels. That is the method I would use if cutting the dovetails by hand. Well, that is exactly the experience I got: "the feeling and extended time of cutting dovetails by hand". There is nothing wrong with doing dovetails by hand. It is just that I was hoping to find a machine process that looked like hand cut dovetails, but without all the time it requires to cut them by hand.

Narrow pins and wide tails is the "hand cut" look for dovetails. They look great, but probably only appreciated by other woodworkers. The strength of a dovetail joint is in the natural forces of the joint holding together by opposing forces by the mating angles of the joint. The strength of the joint does not care or matter if it was made by machine or by hand as long as the joint fits well together.









I have my L-fence JIGs made. I will experience or practice more using this method, but for now I am going back to my tried and true and faster process using my Leigh D4R dovetail jig and router bits. I can knock-out seven drawers in an afternoon. That is what I will do here with this tool cabinet build. Frankly, this project is not breaking any speed records; nor was I trying to set any record. I am just trying to perfect my wooworking techniques and learn some new processes. Time, though, is becoming a factor. I am getting more pressure to start that dining table my Annie has asked for and expecting for the past two years.

Before I start the dining table I not only want this tool cabinet completed, but I was hoping to organize my floor drill press station with a roll around base for it.

Let's go…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Cut Dovetails with My Leigh D4R JIG*

Seven drawers that I decided to cut through dovetails instead of using a drawer lock router bit. One drawers in this tool cabinet is 7 1/8 inch tall. The rest come in pairs with the following dept or heights: 5 inches, 4 inches and lastly 3 inches. They are all 17 3/4 inches long and 14 inches wide.

The image below shows the set of two drawer boxes that are 3 inches tall. The rest of the drawer parts are stacked next to these boxes. I will be resawing the 8/4 rough sawn sapele plank that I bought at my favorite hardwood store. These 1/4 inch thick resaw parts I will fasten as false drawer fronts on all seven drawers. These false drawer fronts will make the through dovetails look like half-blind dovetails.









I also took images of the Leigh jig during the process of routing the dovetails and pins.









The above image shows the depth of cut setting of the dovetail bit.









The straight bit was used here to route out the waste on the pin board. You can clearly see where the tails will fit into this front or back drawer part.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Began Hanging Doors and Marked Drawers for Routing Grooves*

Finally, I began hanging the doors on this cabinet. After hanging the first door, I decided to change the method or steps of this process. I determined it would be easier for me to fasten the butt hinge first to the case's face frame. Since I have routed the mortises on the doors as well as on the face frame of the case, I was confident that these mortises for the hinges were aligned very close to their final position. I did discover that micro adjustments may have to be made when I hung the first door. Those micro adjustments of position or size of the mortise would be easier made in the door rather than on the face frame. Thus, that is why I fastened all of the hinges on the face frame after hanging the first door. This is shown in the following image.










Tomorrow I will finish hanging the remaining three doors.

i also dry fitted all seven drawer parts before quitting work for the day. I took a pencil to mark the location I will route grooves so the plywood bottoms can be inserted.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*All Doors Finally Are Hung*

Before hanging the remaining three doors it was clear to me that I should mount the magnetic door catches first. After analyzing the location where I should mount them, I decided they should be mounted out-of-sight on the face frame; not into the doors themselves. I was going to drill a 11/32 inch diameter hole in the face frame above the doors about one inch from the center of the cabinet. The striker plate would be fastened below the magnetic catch on top of the doors. It also became clear that with an indent of the striker plate that I should cut a mortise about 5/16 inches in diameter with my small plunge router. The thickness or depth of this mortise would be the thickness of the striker plate's indent.

The image below shows the four magnetic catches glued into their positions. I used Gorilla glue. As may be noted I turned my cabinet upside down so I could manage drilling these holes easier. I used a drill bit guide with my handheld drill to make sure the hole I made would be perfectly vertical. I began drilling with a 5/16 inch diameter drill bit. I used blue tape to mark the depth I wanted to use as a stopl I finished drilling these holes with my 11/32 inch diameter drill bit.










I needed an extra pair of hands to hang these doors with the mortised, inset butt hinges. I did try using double-sided tape, but that didn't work. I thought about using my hot glue gun, but it wasn't in my shop. Maybe I should have searched my storage area in my basement , but asking for my Annie's help was the easiest thing to do. She was great.

When it came to adding the last door, it became clear that I needed to trim the width of the door so it could fit into its space. I kind of penciled marked the edge that needed trimming and noted mentally how much should be trimmed with my bench plane I chose to use my #6 Woodriver plane in order to make sure I planed a flat and even surface. I also decided that I would angle the plane's blade so more of the inside edge would be removed. By planing it this way I would be angling the edge to give clearance to close the door without rubbing the other door.









Tomorrow I will need to add more screws. I will also begin to work on the castered bottom and the breadboard ends top plate.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *All Doors Finally Are Hung*
> 
> Before hanging the remaining three doors it was clear to me that I should mount the magnetic door catches first. After analyzing the location where I should mount them, I decided they should be mounted out-of-sight on the face frame; not into the doors themselves. I was going to drill a 11/32 inch diameter hole in the face frame above the doors about one inch from the center of the cabinet. The striker plate would be fastened below the magnetic catch on top of the doors. It also became clear that with an indent of the striker plate that I should cut a mortise about 5/16 inches in diameter with my small plunge router. The thickness or depth of this mortise would be the thickness of the striker plate's indent.
> 
> ...


ISSUES WITH DOORS CLOSING

I continued working on the doors today. I installed the striker plates or buttons on the topside of the doors since I drilled and installed the magnets above the doors. As I stated in the previous entry I turned the cabinet upside down to make the drilled holes.

I chose to use my Bosch Colt 1 hp router within its plunge holder. I determined the plunge depth based on the thickness of the metal buttons thickness. Pinpointing the location of the hole you would think it would be obvious and easy, but there are always issues. At least these holes would b covered by the metal buttons.

What was disappointing is that the doors do not close easily. I need to find a source of help giving me instructions of how to adjust insert butt hinges so I can solve the door closing issues. This is so frustrating. Is it a situation where even if you perfectly mortise the butt hinge so its surface is perfectly flush to the face frame that holds it and then for some mystery the door will not close? It seems that way because I spent so much time cutting the mortises and getting the butt hinges to fit perfectly flush to the face frame.

Like anything that frustrates me; I will sleep on the issue. Maybe in a dream or a flash of revelation I will find instructions of how to adjust the hinges so the doors will close better.

One thing for sure I will be looking for stronger and large magnets to hold and catch the doors tightly. Heck, I may need a hook to hold these doors shut.










The image above was my first idea of how to add support for my router to plunge 5/16" diameter holes for the button plates to fit into. Since I added a fence to the plunge holder I decided to use the thick MDF only; this is the second block from the top. This way one setting for the plunge router's fence was needed. All I had to do was move the MDF block support to the next door I was going to route.

ADDITIONAL STEPS TO COMPLETE TOOL CABINET

Besides working on the magnetic catches, I also ripped the 3/8" poplar that I will use to cover the ply edges of the cabinet base. I will miter these ends.

The plan called for 4 inch casters. I have 5 inch swivel lock casters on hand. I will use those for this roll around tool cabinet.

The plan calls for 16 #14 - 1 inch panhead screws used with washers. I have nine of these 1 inch long screws. I may purchase the additional seven, but I do have sixteen #14 - 3/4 inch panhead screws. I may use those if I can determine if I can get enough threads into the base plate to hold the casters firmly.

I also studied how I might cut the grooves on the top plate where I will fit poplar breadboard ends. I already have the breadboard ends milled and cut along with their stub tenons. I could use a router bit to cut the 1/4 inch thick grooves, but I doubt I could get it perfectly centered on the plywood base. Micro-adjusting the router in my router table would be an ever ending process, I think.

An easier solution, I think, would be to cut the grooves on my table saw. With a tall fence and a rip blade on my table saw and adjusting the distance between the fence and the blade I can get a centered groove easily. I just need to get that distance set with a sample plywood piece first. This is what I will do.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*After Today, What's Left? Glue and Some Screws...*

Let's see, what did I get done today?

The corbells… I had to draw the shape of the corbell. All of that was straight forward. With a photocopy of my scaled drawing, I glued it to 1/4 MDF. With my spokeshave I smoothed the curved surfaces. I had already cut four poplar blocks to the same dimensions. Since they were all the same size I used double-sided tape to hold the four parts together. Then I cut the corbell shape out on my bandsaw. Some more spokeshave sork and then the use of a sanding block and a sanding disk on my floor drill press I had the shape refined and ready for glue and fastening to the cabinet tomorrow.









I did use my table saw with a combination blade to cut the grooves in the plywood top in which I will install the breadboard end stub tenons. I worked out the distance from my tall fence to the blade with a scrap piece of plywood. I determined to get a tight fit with the scrap plywood piece. I would make necessary adjustments with my shoulder plane on the stub tenons in order to fit the stub tenons into the grooves.










I have already glued on poplar hardwood to cover the plies on the top plate. Therefore, I will make the stub tenons a tight fit into the grooves in the plywood top. Therefore, I will either hand plane the excess thickness from these hardwood strips or rip the thickness on my table saw and then hand plane to match the breadboard end widths to the width of the plywood top with the hardwood strips glued on. There is enough thickness in the hardwood strips to get these widths the same as the breadboard ends.










I also cut the 45 degree miter ends on the 3/8 poplar strips I had ripped last evening. I have cut these miter strips to their final lengths so all I have to do tomorrow is glue and clamp them on to the bottom plate. After that I will fasten the four 5 inch swivel locking casters to the underside of the bottom plate. Then it will be ready to glue and screw to the bottom of the tool cabinet.









The top plate with the breadboard ends will also be ready to glue and clamp to the tool cabinet tomorrow.

The corbel's will be glued and rubbed fastened into place under the top plate after it is in place.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Final Stages on This Tool Cabinet*

Today I glued and clamped the poplar breadboard ends to the the top plywood plate as well as the 3/8 inch thick trim around the base plate to cover its plies. Tomorrow I will need to trim the sides of this breadboard top. I will do that at my Saw Stop or I may use my #6 WoodRiver bench plane. We'll see what will work best; maybe both.










After I completed the steps listed above I determined my next step would be to resaw the large Sapele plank. I calculated that about 1/4 inch thick veneer would give me nice drawer fronts for my seven drawers. At MacBeaths Hardwood I selected a very nice plank of 8/4 rough sawn Sapele for this very purpose.










Since the plank was very flat and straight and about 8 1/2 inches wide (my jointer is 8 inches), I decided to scuff plane this plank in my Grizzly 15 inch thickness planer. I got one side nice and flat. I actually scuffed planed lightly both surfaces that were opposite of each other. I eventually concentrated on one surface and got it nicely flat. I took the plank to my jointer to get an edge square to this surface. With an edge square I ripped the other side on my table saw so I would have a four square and flat plank to work with at my bandsaw for resawing veneer.er seemed like a good process to take. Once I flatten one surface flat, I took the plank to my jointer to get an edge flat and 90 degrees to the flat surface. With an edge square to the first flat surface, I got the opposite surface planed parallel to the first. Then I ripped the other edge on my table saw.

I used my yellow shop pencil to etch out several lines on the edges to approximately 3/8 inches apart. These were guide lines for resawing these parts at my bandsaw. I have a 1/2 Wood Slicer resaw blade that I bought from Highland Woodworking. I also have a 3/4 inch Wood Slicer blade in my shop, butBI felt this 1/2 blade would work nicely, and it did!










Oh, I do have a tall resaw fence on the other side of this plank. Really, I do. I bought the Grizzly resaw fence with the bandsaw. It was an option that I added to the price of the Anniversary edition. Hint: don't be a dummy like me if you are going to add the resaw fence option. I could have upgraded the bandsaw with the resaw fence and an additional feature or two for the same total price that I paid. I think the upgrade, if I had done that, would have been better bearings, or something like that. Oh, well. So it goes.

After resawing each 3/8 thick plank, I would take the large plank back to my planer to smooth plane the just cut surface so it would be flat and parallel to the original reference surface. I did this so I could continue resawing drawer front veneers at my bandsaw. I ended up with four planks about 1/4 inch thick. Three of these are needed to cut seven false drawer fronts.

Once I completed the resaw process, I added my "thin stock" table insert in my planer so I could get the resawn surface flat and smooth. I did that for all four resawn 1/4 inch thick planks. That thickness dimension is approximate. I calculated I had up to 3/4 inches that I could add as drawer fronts and still have room to do so in my cabinet. These drawer fronts will give me plenty of space.

I will use a 1 1/2 inch Forstner bit to cut "finger pull holes" in these veneered drawer fronts. Before gluing the drawers together, I will double tape the Sapele false drawer fronts to the poplar drawer fronts and then make a jig that I can clamp to my drill press' table so I can drill each finger pull hole. Only a half circle will be drilled into the drawer fronts for these finger pulls. If I do it right, these fronts should look very nice and simple.










When glued onto my drawers the through dovetails at the drawer front will look as though they are half-blind dovetails. Apparently, Gregory Paolini is given much credit for this techniques at Fine Woodworking Magazine. I doubt he was the first to think of this technique, but they do give him credit for it; so I will too.

Before I cleaned my shop to return it to a garage to park my vehicles in for the night, I decided to route the 1/4 inch grooves in my drawer parts. I made sure I marked on my router table and fence the start and stop location for the grooves I would cut in my drawer fronts and backs. I may cut the backs off at the top of the groove location, but for now I used stopped grooves for the fronts and backs for these drawers.

Yes, the position and locations of these grooves were pre-planned and incorporated into the layout of my symmetrical dovetail design. The pin width at the corners were designed to cover the grooves needed to insert the drawer plywood bottoms. Hopefully, I started and stopped the grooves at the correct positions so I do not need to do any bench chisel work. I messed up grooves like these on a previous project. Hopefully, I learned my lesson then and won't repeat it with this project.

I own a Bosch 1/2 shank set of router bits to cut grooves to fit 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" plywoods. I like this set because of their 1/2 shanks.









I took a photo of the start and stop locations that I had marked on the table and fence with a pencil. I did not take a photo of the grooves I cut in all seven drawers. Maybe I will get that tomorrow.










So on my schedule tomorrow I will fasten the breadboard top to the cabinet. I may run screws up from inside the cabinet to hold the breadboard top to the cabinet. I think that would be a good idea rather than just trust I could glue and clamp it well enough to hold the top on tight. I will probably screw the casters on the bottom base before fasten the base to the cabinet with glue and screws. I will use screws for sure in the bottom since I do not have to worry about the screw holes showing from the outside of the cabinet. Then I will glue the corbels in place with yellow glue with a "rub" joint.

Once all of the above is completed then I will turn to the remaining tasks needed with the seven drawers.

Of course, after all of this will come the finishing stages of this project. I will sand all surfaces thoroughly before ragging on my dye mix. I am using Charles Neil's color recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany. I am using TransTint water based liquid dyes for my mixtures. I will note that Mr Neil in all of his TransTint dye recipes that he adds 2 ounces of distilled water for every 2 ounces of the TransTint dye. Note: TransTint dyes comes in 2 ounce bottles. From there he specifies "parts" for the color recipes. I like that he does it that way rather than asking me to count drops. I cannot, like he said, see me counting 140 drops of dye. I use graduated containers and syringes to measure my "parts".

I have designed a spreadsheet listing all of the color recipes that Charles has in his book "Custom Colors". What I can do with this spreadsheet is specify the total volume of the color I want to mix. So I can enter say 16 ounces or say 500 milliliters of Red Cherry Mahogany and the spreadsheet will calculate how many ounces of this or that of TransTint dye diluted with distill water 1:1 that I need to add to so many ounces of distilled water to get Charles' color.

I can also use my spreadsheet in a different manner. If I have a certain amount of a TransTint dye left, I can take that amount and apply it in the spreadsheet to tell me how much of the other TransTint colors and distilled water I should use and mix. Does that make sense? An example to illustrate could be this: I can calculate how much Red Cherry Mahogany I can make if I only have say 1 ounce of Bright Red (1 remaining on my shelf. With the calculated amount of Cordovan and distilled water with the remaining one ounce of bright red, my spreadsheet would tell me the total ounces I would make of Red Cherry Mahogany…

I mix all my dyes in an appropriate sized glass jar.

To protect Charles Neil's recipes I won't give his recipe for his Red Cherry Mahogany, but it does require so much distilled water along with his 1:1 dilution of TransTint colors of Cordovan and Bright Red. My spreadsheet takes Charles' "parts" of distilled water, Cordovan and Bright Red and mixes them all together to make his Red Cherry Mahogany dye. His book shows examples of his dyes on several species of hardwood. I liked what I saw for this dye on maple. I am hoping my poplar will look good as his walnut color did on poplar. I am excited to see how my shop tool cabinet will look after I have ragged on the dye, sealed it with a spray can of Shellac and then whatever top finish coat I decide to spray to finish it.

I am getting close to finishing this project. I am actually very excited. I can temper that by acknowledging that I have an article to read so I can fix my butt hanged doors. The magazine article that I found in which I hope will contain the answers I am seeking to fix my butt hinged door issues was written by master woodworker Christian Becksvoort, "Frame-and-Panel Doors made Easier", Fine Woodworking Magazine, March/April 2011, pp. 54-57. I have homework tonight…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Final Stages on This Tool Cabinet*
> 
> Today I glued and clamped the poplar breadboard ends to the the top plywood plate as well as the 3/8 inch thick trim around the base plate to cover its plies. Tomorrow I will need to trim the sides of this breadboard top. I will do that at my Saw Stop or I may use my #6 WoodRiver bench plane. We'll see what will work best; maybe both.
> 
> ...


This is my first time using 1/4 inch Baltic Birch plywood for drawer bottoms. Hey, I should have realized that this plywood is full thickness unlike the domestic plywood I have used for drawer bottoms prior to this project.










So I have setup my router table and fence so I can reroute these grooves with a,full sized 1/4 inch uncut router bit. Setup should be easy. After this I will cut my Sapele false drawer fronts. I will use double sided tape to fix them to the poplar fronts so I can drill the fingers holes.

That is my mission this morning.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?*

Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful.

I liked this look so much that I decided not to follow the plan I am using by drilling semi-circles as finger holes to pull the drawer open. Instead I hope to use my router with a cove bit to route a recess on the top backside of the drawer front. That recess along with my calculation of 5/8" gap between each drawer should be enough to stick a finger in to pull open each drawer in this tool cabinet I am building.










My search on the Internet to find a solution that I could follow in order to route a recess area on the upper backside of my drawer fronts found this link below. The AskWoodMan uses a shop-made router guide to make his recesses.

AskWoodMan Uses Router Guide to Create Recess Area for Finger Pulls.

After I posted the above link I found a better and easier process for routing a finger recess area under the bottom edge of my drawers. I will experiment with with some scrap pieces of wood first.

My most likely method to use on my drawers...


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?*
> 
> Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful.
> 
> ...


Well, of course there are many more options for routing finger pulls or holes for drawers.

Click here for a link to other images....


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?*
> 
> Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful.
> 
> ...


I routed finger recess areas on the top centered backside of each drawer. I did this instead of drilling semi-circles per the Woodsmith plan I was following. I routed the recesses because I did not want to distract from the beautiful sapele hardwood I was using for the false drawer fronts.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?*
> 
> Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful.
> 
> ...


I worked a little today on this tool cabinet. I had used double-sided tape holding the false front sapele to the poplar hardwood fronts so first I had to separate these two parts so I could remove the tape. Some times I had to use a razor blade to remove the tape.









Before separating the sapele part from the poplar piece I used a square to mark with a pencil line where the two parts joined or fitted together. This is so I could precisely put the two parts back together again when I glued and clamped them back together.









I also shot 3 brad nails into the glued parts when I knew they were precisely placed together. This was done because the parts get slippery when glue is applied and the parts will definitely move when clamped. I rehearsed the clamping process.









I will keep the clamps on overnight so the parts have the best chance of adhering together and lasting that way for decades…









It is unusual to glue the false front to the drawer before the drawer parts are glued together, but I rehearsed putting the false front on first and then assembled the drawer together. I believe I can get the sapele in its precise location better this way, or using this method.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?*
> 
> Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful.
> 
> ...


Today I brushed and wiped on my TransTint dye mix. I mixed this color based on Charles Neil's formula that he called Red Cherry Mahogany. I applied this color just to the drawer front poplar wood. I made sure that the sapele hardwood false drawer fronts were not touched. I did this coloring so that the dovetail side boards for these seven drawers will standout with a contrasting color.



















Tomorrow after this dye has had its chance to dry completely I will scuff sand the poplar parts so I can then spray a Shellac clear sealer. I suspect that the sealer will enliven the color dye some. After that dries I will glue and clamp the drawers together. This is all in preparation for mounting the drawers with the full extension metal drawer slides.









I also bought at my local box store a pack of 20 shelf pins that will fit the 1/4 inch holes that I have drilled. In addition i bought a pack of 100 1/4" washers. I need 16 washers with the #14 - 3/4 inch long panhead screws that will fasten the locking swivel 5 inch casters to the base plate.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Detail Work: Drawer Fronts and Breadboard End Top Layout*

Today I worked with detail finish work. For instance, I sprayed three layers of Shellac clear to seal the dye that I had applied to the poplar drawer front backs. With each of these drawers I had taped prior to applying the dye. However, the tape did not keep the dye from finding its way to where I did not want it.










I decided that I would use my #4 smoothing plane on the sapele to clean the surface by removing the wood that got some of the dye on it. This included using one or really both of my shoulder planes to clean the dye from the edges of the sapele. I also cleaned the end grain with my smoothing plane. I lied the way the drawer fronts turned out form this hand plane work.

To clean the drawer front sapele I used the planing stop that can be seen in the image below. Sorry that I did not get an image of how this stop was used with each drawer front. Maybe I can enter an image later…










The image below shows how I cleaned th end grain with my smoothing plane.



























I also worked some on the breadboard end panel top. What I did first wast setup my table saw to cut the trim I had glued on to cover the plies. After cutting with the table saw I also used my #7 jack plane to get the surfaces flush and smooth.










I was adding some wood putty to fill th edge between the people breadboard end and the maple plywood panel. In fact I added more putty into cracks that I saw in th case and doors. I will clean these puttied areas tomorrow with sandpaper.

I also marked the case and the top panel where the middle points where so I could match them up later when I am ready to glue and fasten the top to the case. When I do that I will use screws from the inside of the case to hold on the top panel to it.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*More Fixing Details and Thinning my Dye Mix*

I spent more time inspecting my cabinet and its joinery. I used more putty to fill some of the gaps I found on the doors, etc. After the putty was dry I sanded those spots with my hand sanding blocks. The image below shows the inside surface of my drawer front. This is the original mix of TransTint dyes to make Charles Neil's red cherry mahogany recipe. It goes on very thick so it nearly makes the wood grain disappear. That worried me some so I began thinking of thinning the recipe.










After wiping on my dye mix made to Charles Neil's recipe for red cherry mahogany, I became worried about its deep color masking the wood's grain and the hue of it being too red or even purple. I decided with help from family members to thin the dye. I decided to take 3 parts RCM and one part distilled water and wipe that on the cabinet caster's base panel. That part is mostly covered by the cabinet that it is fastened to as well as the bottom would never be seen unless the cabinet stood on its head.




























Thinning the dye did help show the grain more that was on the plywood panel.










I know I could add more brown dye to this mix in order to rid the dye from its redness or purple hue, but that would be just trial and error. The test would not be guaranteed to be better than what I have. Again, I will sleep on this issue.

In addition to this work I also noticed some gap in the face frame to the case. I slipped in more Titebond I glue into those gaps and then clamped the area with four parallel clamps. I am leaving the clamps on over night. I will check how well the glue and held tomorrow.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *More Fixing Details and Thinning my Dye Mix*
> 
> I spent more time inspecting my cabinet and its joinery. I used more putty to fill some of the gaps I found on the doors, etc. After the putty was dry I sanded those spots with my hand sanding blocks. The image below shows the inside surface of my drawer front. This is the original mix of TransTint dyes to make Charles Neil's red cherry mahogany recipe. It goes on very thick so it nearly makes the wood grain disappear. That worried me some so I began thinking of thinning the recipe.
> 
> ...


Instead of adding brown dye to make this mix more brown I got a suggestion to add green to make it more brown; I guess red and green makes brown. I need a lesson in color wheels and mixing colors. So I made a trip to Woodcraft where I bought green TransTint. I diluted that 1:1 with distilled water cause that is how Charles Neil does for his TransTint dye recipes. I guessed at 1/2 part green relative to the water and dye colors that i mixed for the Red Cherry Mahogany plus I added an additional part of water to thin this mix down some. What i got was a browner hue. I liked it after testing it on a spare plywood piece.

This image is of the base panel with the sample dye changes I made on Saturday. It was a bit too dark for my liking.









I went back to my original formula and came up with a new recipe by adding 1 more part of water and 1/2 part of TransTint green. The sample from mixing the water and green in the red cherry mahogany is now what I am calling brown cherry mahogany mix. A sample of this mixture I wiped on this scarp piece of baltic birch plywood. I did not get the mixture even, but I did like the upper right hand corner of this block.










I also applied this hue to the bottom of the case. This surface will never be seen so I figured I would test wiping it on and see again how it looks in the morning. If everything is okay in the morning then I will glue, clamp and screw the bottom caster panel to the case.










I also will pre drill through the top of the case so tomorow I can also glue, clamp and screw on the breadboard end top panel to the case.

Thus, after inspecting the surfaces to see if they are ready for finishing I will wipe on the "brown cherry mahogany" dye mix on all surfaces.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Glued and Screwed Caster Base and Breadboard End Top*

I placed the case up on its head so I could pre-drill screw holes from inside the case so the screws would be hidden when I glued and screwed the top on to the case.










I had marked the sides of the case to match the location of the caster base so the caster base would be centered on the case. I also used a rule to mark the locations where I would pre-drill screw locations in order to fasten the caster base onto the cabinet case. I was using #8 - 1 1/4" square head screws to fasten the base panel. I did that after I applied a good amount of Titebond I glue.










I had some poplar plugs left over and i used them with glue to plug the pre-drilled holes.










Once the base panel was fastened I flipped the case over right-side up, onto its casters. Once that was done I double-checked the marks I had made so that the top panel would be centered left to right on the case. This time I poured out more glue onto the case's top. I placed the breadboard end panel top on the case and tried to clamp it in place while positioning it as it slipped and slid as it would with the slippery glue between the top panel and case's top. Once I had two clamps on this top to hold it in placed I began fastening the top panel to the case with wood screws,










Before I finished for the day, I used some maple wood putty to fill in some of the gaps on the case.










Tomorrow I hope to glue together my seven drawers. I noticed my bottom drawer false front was not installed centered on the drawer front. It is skewed to one side. My best solution at this stage is to trim the side that has 1/4 inch more added to its side as viewed from the front. I may be able to take this trimmed part and glue it to the short side by using a thin spline. I will analyze this option further.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Wiping on My Dye Mix*

I had used Charles Neil's recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany but after wiping this dye on the drawer fronts poplar parts, I decided to change the formula a bit. I wanted a lighter and more brown recipe. After consulting Charles Neil he suggested that I add green TransTint to the recipe. Green and red, he said makes brown. What I did was to test the recipe on some scrap pieces of timber. I settled for adding 1/2 part of green plus 1 part of additional distilled water to the existing 17 ounce mix of his Red Cherry Mahogany. With the additional 3 ounces of distilled water and 1/2 part of green TransTint I ended up with over 20 ounces of dye mix.



















I tested the mix on the caster bottom panel that I was going to glue and screw to the cabinet case. I was satisfied with the result. I began this evening by adding the recipe to a red plastic cup. I also picked out a couple of rags to use for wiping on the remaining dye mix.

Since my dye mixture is a deviation from a Charles Neil recipe, I have decided to call this mix my Brown Cherry Mahogany recipe. I wrote notes of my tests and final recipe in my woodshop journal. This way I can repeat the mixture since it is now written down.










I worked from the inside top bays first. Then I moved to the bottom inside bays, then the top doors, the face frame top, then the bottom doors and then the face frame bottom. I was concerned that I might run out of dye so I calculated I would lastly apply the dye to the back of the cabinet. This mean that I wiped on the dye to the ends after completed the doors. Once I started wiping on the dye I stayed on the project late into the evening to complete this work. Even though it is Spring here with cool temperatures, I went through a lot of drinking water and sweat. The hot shower afterwards got the dirt and smell off…










I used every drop of the dye mix to cover the remaining frame and panel back parts.










My next step will be to spray clear Shellac in order to seal the dye before spraying on the finish top coats.


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## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Wiping on My Dye Mix*
> 
> I had used Charles Neil's recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany but after wiping this dye on the drawer fronts poplar parts, I decided to change the formula a bit. I wanted a lighter and more brown recipe. After consulting Charles Neil he suggested that I add green TransTint to the recipe. Green and red, he said makes brown. What I did was to test the recipe on some scrap pieces of timber. I settled for adding 1/2 part of green plus 1 part of additional distilled water to the existing 17 ounce mix of his Red Cherry Mahogany. With the additional 3 ounces of distilled water and 1/2 part of green TransTint I ended up with over 20 ounces of dye mix.
> 
> ...


I like the results; very nice.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

HappyHowie said:


> *Wiping on My Dye Mix*
> 
> I had used Charles Neil's recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany but after wiping this dye on the drawer fronts poplar parts, I decided to change the formula a bit. I wanted a lighter and more brown recipe. After consulting Charles Neil he suggested that I add green TransTint to the recipe. Green and red, he said makes brown. What I did was to test the recipe on some scrap pieces of timber. I settled for adding 1/2 part of green plus 1 part of additional distilled water to the existing 17 ounce mix of his Red Cherry Mahogany. With the additional 3 ounces of distilled water and 1/2 part of green TransTint I ended up with over 20 ounces of dye mix.
> 
> ...


Well done .. nice color


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Wiping on My Dye Mix*
> 
> I had used Charles Neil's recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany but after wiping this dye on the drawer fronts poplar parts, I decided to change the formula a bit. I wanted a lighter and more brown recipe. After consulting Charles Neil he suggested that I add green TransTint to the recipe. Green and red, he said makes brown. What I did was to test the recipe on some scrap pieces of timber. I settled for adding 1/2 part of green plus 1 part of additional distilled water to the existing 17 ounce mix of his Red Cherry Mahogany. With the additional 3 ounces of distilled water and 1/2 part of green TransTint I ended up with over 20 ounces of dye mix.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I would never have thought to add green to get brown. That has opened a whole to world to me. I ordered a couple of color wheels and I am watching some painting videos on YouTube. I will get my watercolors out of storage. I thought those were just to entertain my grandkids. Now I need to study painting and color mixing so I can become a better woodworker by mixing dyes.

Thank you Charles for the suggestion.


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## XquietflyX (Oct 9, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Wiping on My Dye Mix*
> 
> I had used Charles Neil's recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany but after wiping this dye on the drawer fronts poplar parts, I decided to change the formula a bit. I wanted a lighter and more brown recipe. After consulting Charles Neil he suggested that I add green TransTint to the recipe. Green and red, he said makes brown. What I did was to test the recipe on some scrap pieces of timber. I settled for adding 1/2 part of green plus 1 part of additional distilled water to the existing 17 ounce mix of his Red Cherry Mahogany. With the additional 3 ounces of distilled water and 1/2 part of green TransTint I ended up with over 20 ounces of dye mix.
> 
> ...


looking great


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*

I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.










Now I need to make a choice for the top coat finish. I have several cans of lacquer and polyurethane in my shop. Which should I use. This cabinet is a shop tool cabinet so durability is probably my biggest concern. I will study a couple of my finish books tonight.

QUESTION
What finish coat should I spray tomorrow? Lacquer? Or Polyurethane?

I also stacked the drawers that I also glued and clamped yesterday. I stacked them on top of each other in the cabinet bay where they will be mounted on metal slides. I measured the gap from the top drawer to the bottom of the face frame rail that crosses overtop of them. That gap is 3 1/2 inches. There are seven drawers and seven gaps to equally position. That calculates to 1/2 inch gap between each drawer. So I believe 1/2 inches will give me enough space to pass my fingers through in order to pull on the finger latch I routed into the top back of each drawer front. I did not want to cut semi-circle holes in this beautiful wood. I am trying to show off all of the sapele hardwood that I can in this project. I resaw cut 1/4 inch thick drawer fronts; actually they were probably 5/16" before hand planing the surfaces smooth.

The resawing was done on my bandsaw from the 8/4 sapele plank I found at MacBeaths Hardwood. It was like the perfect match for my cabinet. It was fate. I could not pass on its purchase. And, this plank ran like butter through my 1/2 inch bandsaw blade. I have temporarily forgotten the brand name of the blade but I bought it from Highland Woodworking. Someone on this site will know its brand name. Its now my favorite bandsaw blade.


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## QuangFromCalgary (Mar 11, 2010)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...


Is your Zinsser's clear shellac wax free? To my knowledge, the one in spray can has no wax, the one in a quart can contains wax.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...


^ the cans come in both waxed and wax-free varieties.

You can use most any finish over shellac. My favorite finish is just lacquer.
Lacquer is okay over shellac, just keep it out of direct sunlight until it cures.

I don't care for poly or WB finishes, but some folks like them.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...


I used the Zinsser clear Shellac aerosol spray can. I know they have a dewaxed Shellac in a can that they call a seal coat. I believed their clear and amber canned Shellac both have wax.

On a website that I have linked here it says that the aerosol does not have wax. This product page says that this clear shellac can be used with lacquer and most other top coat finishes. However, I cannot find a Zinsser product sheet to detail exactly if the canned spray has wax or not.Thus, I am not certain. Even saying this I have heard others on the Internet claim that they have found no clear evidence that waxed Shellac has damaged their top coat finishes. However, I take that will a grain of salt. How much time did they let pass to test that theory?

Any suggestions?


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...


It is sounding like lacquer maybe my best option.

Since I used a water based dye but sealed that with Shellac, would you consider this cabinet having a water base? And, would that be a reason for you not use polyurethane as its topcoat finish?

I am going to be using cans to spray either the lacquer or the polyurethane. I won't be touching this cabinet with a brush or a cloth so I do not believe I have to worry about smearing the dye, or thinning the dye by pulling it around its surface.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...












My line up of finish…

If I use the MinWax polyurethane, I intend to spray first the clear gloss and afterwards the semi-gloss. Somewhere I read where that is the preferred order, if semi-gloss or satin is used. Does that sound right?

So much to learn… So much to remember…

No complaints from me. This is all good fun…


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...


Pinto Deluxe… Gee, as a former Washingtonian I knew Camas sounded familiar but I did not realize it was along the Columbia River east of Vancouver and Portland. Why does it sound so familiar to me? Did DB Cooper jump out over this town? Or, was some of the money in his bag found along its riverbed? Or, was the skull of the earliest Indian or whatever he was found there? Something famous or noteworthy had to happen there. Lewis and Clark I am sure passed through there. Maybe those beautiful waterfalls are nearby. Or, is there a county in Washington that goes by Camas? No, that is in Idaho.

I bet the wind is always blowing along the Columbia River.. Does it even out in directions? Morning is one way and the evenings the winds blow in the opposite direction? Isn't the Columbia used by those sail surfers?

At my age it becomes difficult to remember things.

I know. I am confusing Camas Washington with Kamas Utah. Probably both great places to live and do fun things in and roundabout.

Thank you for your comment. Would you stay away from using polyurethane finish after you have used water based dyes like TransTint on your project? Just trying to learn from guys with broader shoulders and more experience than I in woodworking. I make enough mistakes on my own which is one way to learn a lesson,..


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...


I went looking for a reference on the Internet where someone questioned using polyurethane over waxed Shellac. I found it. I remember seeing this before. However, I try not to believe everything I read on the Internet. I can be suckered in on some things, but I tell you what: I am not falling for that Dell Support telephone call any longer. Fool me once. You won't fool me twice. Support does not originate calls that way. I just wish that Dell would have told me directly that their database was hacked or stolen by an insider.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???*
> 
> I sprayed two coats of Zinsser's clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night.
> 
> ...












Are theses things called scuff pads? I am using the white pad to scuff the dye surface before spraying my finish coats. I will also use a scuff pad between coats, except for the last one.

I am probably doing this wrong. I don't know. The little fibers are wedging into the grain fibers. It will take some work to rid them before spraying. Maybe a fine grit sandpaper would have been a better choice. I suspect the water based dye raised the grain to cause this situation.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Sprayed on First Finish Coat*

I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser's Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet.

So for all other surfaces on this cabinet I sprayed Deft lacquer. Those surfaces were the panel top, both sides of the cabinet plus the cabinet's face frame parts plus both sides of all four doors.

In about four hours i sprayed on two liberal coats of finish.

Tomorrow , maybe, I will spray two or three more finish coats. Then I will mount the seven drawers with the 18 inch full-extension metal drawers slides. After the drawers I will screw on the rare earth magnetic door catches. That should complete the build of this project.

You can tell from the photo below that I used a Rust Oleum Comfort Grip handle to spray their finish from these cans. It did make it easier for me to operate the spray cans.



















Temperatures was in the mid-60s. I opened my garage door plus the back door so I would have clean air pushing through the shop. I used my 3M respirator to protect my lungs and breathing. Things went well, but I did sweat today.










i am letting these coats dry overnight before I do anything else.










The images above were taken after spraying the last of the finish coats for the day. To show the contrast of using finish on this cabinet compare the photos above where the finish coat is still wet and last photo shown below that was taken just prior to spraying finish coats. There is a huge difference, isn't there? I believe it also enhances the color of my dye mix.


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed on First Finish Coat*
> 
> I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser's Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet.
> 
> ...


Sure looks like the tool chest is coming along nicely, great storage.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Sprayed on First Finish Coat*
> 
> I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser's Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet.
> 
> ...


I have been surprised how thirsty the Baltic Birch plywood panels have been. These are the 1/4 inch thick plywood panel parts that I sandwiched into the grooved poplar hardwood frames. I had sanded them thoroughly before and after fastening them into the frame parts. During this finish spraying process, I am discovering how much lint from the scuff pad and cloth rags are being wedged into this plywood's grainy surface. I have to assume raising the grain when I wiped on the water based dye has caused this condition.










I stopped using the scuff pads immediately when I discovered what was happening. I went to a 320 grit sandpaper instead. I only lightly scuff the surfaces. I do not want to sand the surface to the point of showing bare wood.










Other than using denatured alcohol instead of distilled water to dilute the TransTint dye, I do not know what else I could have done to prevent this condition. I am also searching for a process or a way to mitigate this state of tiny lint fibers stuck in my plywood grain. I can't see sanding the surfaces, over and over again. I am wondering if I should use some furniture wax on top of the lacquer I have sprayed. I think that may help plus it would enliven the wood with some moisture from the wax, or give the appearance of it.










I did spray two more coats of finish today. I am thinking it will require only one more coat tomorrow. At certain moments late this afternoon it seemed like the plywood would never get full. It would always need another coat of finish. Is that possible? It has been so thirsty. Of course, I will be checking it again tomorrow in the sunlight of day.

So once I have the finish coats completed, I can then turn my time to making the jig to hang the drawers into its bay. The jig will simply be two panels of 1/2 inch plywood or MDF cut to the length of the highest mounted drawer in the bay. Once those metal slides are screwed in and tested, I will cut the length of the jig for the next drawer to be hung, and so on…

I also have rare earth magnetic door catches to screw into place so my doors will not accidently open.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Finish Coats Completed*

Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel.










Tomorrow I will begin mounting the seven drawers in this cabinet. I will start with the top drawer by using two plywood panels to set its height and to hold the drawer and slide in place while I screw on the metal slide parts. After the first top drawer is fastened, then I will cut the panel to the next length needed to fastened the next row of drawers below it, and so on…










I like the color of this cabinet from the TransTint dye mix I made starting from Charles Neil's original recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany. I added more distilled water and some green only to make the mix a bit more brown. Mixing green with the existing tone of red opened up a whole new world to me concerning the color wheel. I was aware of how two colors could make a third and such, but this real example impacted me more than any other book learning that I had done I have made a small investment in watercolor supplies so I an explore this subject more. Thank you Charles for your selfless help.










The plan I have been following to build this tool cabinet had recommended to paint the maple plus Baltic Birch plywood and poplar hardwood. The photograph taken of the finished project looked great. I had every intention of painting this cabinet in a similar fashion. However, in my studies I began to learn about dyes from Charles Neil's woodworking instruction. I bought his online book Custom Colors. I got my first chance to use dyes when I volunteered to refinish my neighbor's coffee table. That led me to consider using dye on this cabinet. Giving this shop cabinet a look of mahogany transforms it from looking like a shop cabinet to a fine furniture piece that looks like the dresser I use in my master bedroom. If I hadn't put a caster base on this cabinet it could fit into the furniture I have in my bedroom.

Oh, well. Why not experiment with finishes when making shop cabinetry?

This whole project has been a series of new firsts for me: my first frame and panel project, my first time using router jigs for loose tenon joinery, first real time using dyes for coloring my personal projects. I have made drawers before but these seven drawers I believe are the best ones I have made to date. They are very sturdy, strong with a great looking sapele false drawer front that I re-sawed from a great 8/4 rough sawn sapele plank.

Hopefully, I will continue to get better at what I do in woodworking. Isn't that the real goal: continuous improvement?


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## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Finish Coats Completed*
> 
> Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel.
> 
> ...


Now the "other" is going to want it! So you will have to build another for you!


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Finish Coats Completed*
> 
> Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel.
> 
> ...


With the warmer weather I have opened my garage door. I do not need to heat my shop these days. My neighbors are stopping by to see what I am up to… Their project requests may be interesting but so far my family member's desires have come first. My Ann reminds me how long it has been since she requested a new dining table. What's wrong with the farmhouse looking table we have owned for 25 years? I love that table. Why doesn't she love it like i do? Oh…

I am running out of excuses for that "other" project, aren't I?

I am probably wrong to think I could start and complete another shop project ahead of Ann's dining table, right? That floor drill press cabinet on rollers I have been sketching out in my head will most likely have to wait, won't it?

So it goes…

It's all fun, but I can only work on one project at a time… Okay, what's next? Let's estimate the board feet and cost of the rough sawn lumber. Hardware? Let's get a tally… I need a plan to give to the boss…


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Finish Coats Completed*
> 
> Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel.
> 
> ...


Happy Howie, this has been a great build, I have been following your blog. You do an excellent job with explaining your work as you go. Keep them coming.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Spacers to be Used to Mount Drawer Slides*

PANEL SPACERS FOR MOUNTING DRAWER SLIDES

In this blog post I am going to reveal how this engineer thinks, or solves some of these woodworking problems; especially if it involves a bit of mathematics. In this case it is simple addition, subtraction, etc.

Many or maybe all of you may want to stop reading right here. That is fine. I am writing this mainly for myself so I have a record how I solved fitting these seven drawers into this cabinet's bay. Once a problem is solved then the issue seems simple in retrospect. I admit that I had to measure and analyze my situation before I began any work to fit these drawers into this space. It may be obvious of how to proceed for a master woodworker, but this novice guy does not take anything for granted.

For those who want to be spared how I analyzed and calculated my solution, this would be the spot where you should bail out!

To install my drawers into this cabinet I am going to use scrap ¾ " plywood panels as spacers. Actually, I will use two spacers cut to the exact same length. I will start by mounting the topmost pair of drawer slides, or top drawer. I will cut the length of the spacers so that the slides are located at the proper position indicated by the length of these spacers.. I will explain those calculated lengths or locations a bit later in the paragraphs below. I will use the spacers to hold the slides and the drawer at their calculated height location as I drive in the screws; first to the case's side panels and then as I extend the slides I will fasten the metal slides to the drawer with screws. Of course, a video would be the best way to demonstrate this process. Maybe I can record a video clip and link it to this blog post. If I cannot devise a process to record it, I hope my written words will be clear enough to explain the process I used for those that are interested and have read to this point.










After the first drawer slides are installed I will simply cut the two spacer lengths down to their next length for the next pair of slides and drawer to be mounted. I will repeat this process until all of the slides and drawers are installed.










Since my cabinet has a face frame, the bottom drawer will be positioned just a fraction of an inch above the bottom rail of this face frame. This rail's top is ½ inch above the inside base's top surface. I take that ½ inch length into account when calculating the length of the spacers.

There is also a rail at the top of the drawer bay. I measured the distance between these two rails. That length was 34 ⅝ inches: the measured distance between face frame rails.

To calculate the gap between the stacked drawers and the distance between the two face frame rails, I first summed the heights of all seven drawers. That summation is shown below and totals to 31 ¼ inches.

7 ¼ + 5 + 5+ 4 + 4 + 3 + 3 = 31 1/4 inches is the summation of drawer heights…

Thus, the total drawer gap is calculated by subtracting the summation of the drawers heights from the distance between the face frame rails:

Total drawer gap is: 34 ⅝ minus 31 ¼ = 3 ⅜ inches.

I am using hidden finger pulls routed on the upper backside of the drawer fronts in order to open these drawers. I did not want to use knobs or cut semi-circle holes as what was shown in the Woodsmith plan.

I had picked out and used a beautiful sapele hardwood plank for my false drawer fronts. So since I designed to open these drawers in this manner with hidden finger pulls, I needed gaps above each drawer into which I could place my fingers so I could grasp the coved routed area in order to pull the drawers open. The height of the gaps between each drawer I determined should all be the same, equal. I figured gap calculation to the nearest 32nd of an inch. I thought that would be close enough.

Seven drawers need seven finger holes or gaps. The gap between drawers was easily calculated by taking the total drawer gap of 3 ⅜ inches and dividing that by 7. The result is shown below,:

3 ⅜ divided by 7 equals 0.482143 inches…

Multiple that answer by 32 gives me this number: 15.4. Rounding or truncating 15.4 gives me:

15/32. Inches; this is just shy of a half inch.

I chose to use fractions to the nearest 32nd of an inch instead of a 16th because a 32nd keeps the rounding errors to a minimum when adding up seven gaps for seven drawers.

I did; I went to all of this trouble so I could be as precise as I felt I needed to be in order to mount these metal drawer slides into this cabinet drawer bay

I had two other things to consider.

#1) I wanted the bottom of the drawer slides to be positioned ¼ inches above the bottom of the drawer sides. Say that three times fast…

#2) I need the front edge of the metal drawer slides to be positioned directly behind the ¼ inch thick sapele false drawer fronts. Each drawer front was cut at my bandsaw so I would have a finish thickness of ¼ inch.

To help me position the front of these metal drawer slides I am looking at the center divider of this cabinet. It is a ¾ inch plywood panel with a ¼ inch poplar strip to cover or hide the plies. I will position the front of these slides to that seam line where the poplar strip is glued to the plywood panel. That works for the center panel or left side of the drawers.

However, for the right side of the drawers I have a 1 ½ inch thick spacer made from poplar hardwood. This is what the metal slides will be fastened or screwed to for the right-side of these drawers. To position the front of these metal slides I needed some other device to offset or mark the slides starting indent position. I located some small scrap pieces of maple that I had resawn to ¼ inch thick strips. I will be using this to indent the starting front edge of the drawer slides on this right-side of the drawer bay by indexing it flush to the front edge of the poplar spacers. Doing that will give me the ¼ inch indent to position the front edge of my drawer slide on the right side of the drawers.

Lastly, I wanted to calculate all the space lengths I would need to position all of these drawers to their proper height in this bay. To calculate the spacers lengths I started at the bottom of the bay, the caster base's surface.

I have summarized those calculations below.

(7) Spacer length for bottom drawer #1: ( 7 1/4" tall)
½ inches 
(Note: leave the line when ripping the length of this spacer. Actually, I will cut this spacer separately from the spacers used for all the other drawer mountings.)

(6) Spacer length for drawer #2 that will be a 5" tall drawer.
15/32 + 7 8/32 + 16/32 = 7 39/32 = 8 7/32 inches

(5) Spacer length for drawer #3 that will be a 5" tall drawer.
8 7/32 + 5 15/32 = 13 22/32 = 13 11/16 inches

(4) Spacer length for drawer #4 that will be a 4" tall drawer.
13 22/32 + 5 15/32 = 18 37/32 = 19 5/32 inches

(3) Spacer length for drawer #3 that will be a 4" tall drawer.
19 5/32 + 4 15/32 = 23 20/32 = 23 5/8 inches

(2) Spacer length for drawer #2 that will be a 3" tall drawer.
23 20/32 + 4 15/32 = 27 35/32 = 28 3/32 inches

(1) Spacer length for drawer #1 that will be a 3" tall drawer.
28 3/32 + 3 15/32 = 31 18/32 = 31 9/16 inches

I have marked with a pencil all of these lengths on the plywood spacers plus I have cut the spacers to the 31 9/16 inch length. This is my starting position for the topmost drawer I will mount first to the metal slides. After mounting it, I will cut the spacers to the next length marked as (2) above: 28 3/32 inches. I will continue in this manner until I reach the bottom drawer. For it I have already cut two spacers to slightly over 1/ 2 inch lengths.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Spacers to be Used to Mount Drawer Slides*
> 
> PANEL SPACERS FOR MOUNTING DRAWER SLIDES
> 
> ...


I didn't check your math but the process sounds perfect.

When I use side mounted drawer guides, I always put the guides on so that the bottom of the drawer will be flush with the bottom of the guide. 
Then when I layout my drawer fronts (with spacing) I just add 1/4" to the bottom of the drawer front measurement and that's the size I cut my board. 
This always puts my drawer box 1/4" above the bottom of the drawer front. (if that makes sense)

(I usually run a piece of tape down the face of the cabinet and then make the marks for the drawer fronts and spacing on the tape, then measure the marks on the tape to get my board sizes.)

Anyway that's my system that works for me.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*

I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.










With the center divider I can use a spring clamp to hold the drawer spacer upright. Since I have the door hinged on the opposite side I have to figure out another way to hold that drawer spacer upright. I chose to use a wedged stick to hold it in place.










I trimmed the thin drawer slide spacer so it would be no wider than the width of the slide it would hold on its top surface and still allow the drawers to fit between the slides. I also measured the lip of every drawer false front cover to its drawer side surface. There were some variances among the seven drawers, but not much; maybe as much as 3/64 inches. I have the spacers labeled: L for left and R for right cuz there is a slight difference from one side to the other. details… details… And, it does seem to matter…

So with the spring clamp holding the slide in place, I pre-drilled the three screw holes with the center hole aligned drill bit and then fastened the slide into place with the #8 screws supplied in the kit. I had to handhold the right hand slide in place and perform all of these tasks with the other hand.










Now it was time to position the drawer between these mounted slides so I could begin fastening the slide to the drawer side with screws.

Jeez Louise! Did I measure this gap wrong?

My drawer was not fitting between these slides. It appeared my drawers were 1/8 inches too wide. I tried it again. I got my rule out. Measured the opening. Measured my drawer width. I measured the gap between the center divider and the poplar spacer on the opposite bay side; at the top, middle and bottom. Those measurements were all the same distance. I measured the widths of all seven drawers. They measured all the same.

What did I do wrong?

Did I measure the bay's width incorrectly before I started cutting the drawer parts? Where was my shop journal? Did I record the cut measurements in it? I began thinking: how am I going to fix this screw-up? Make all new drawers? Route and chisel 1/8 inch deep channels, seven times into the right-side poplar spacers? Gee, the drawers I made were sturdy and the best I had done. I would hate to toss them on the junk pile…

Well, I need time to calm down and think this through. I turned off the lights and walked away for day. Time to think.

This morning with a rule in my hand I went back to re-measure everything. I also looked through my journal entries There was the measurement I made cuts to for drawers parts: the drawer front and backs. On page 92, gap distance for widths: 13 11/16 inches minus 1 inch for pair of metal slides gives a cut length of 12 11/16 inches. Actual current measurements of distance between this mounted pair of metal slides: 12 11/16 inches. Remeasured actual width of drawers: 12 11/16 inches. Every drawer had the same measurement 12 11/16 inches.

Tried to fit the drawer again between these slides. Result: TIGHT!

A sigh of relief, some relief…

I will get out my hand plane and some sandpaper. I will do the best I can to hand plane and sand the sides of these drawers; especially where the "pins" fit through the side board "tails" and may not be as flush as they should be.

Now I do not see, nor do I believe or fear I need to make new drawers or route and chisel "channels" to fit the slides into so my drawers will fit between these metal slides.

To be continued…


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


*Roll around cabinet #28…......*You're thinking way too much about your next post and not paying attention to what you're doing. #28 is my first and last look at this project, maybe I will look at your cabinet when it's done.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


I looked up charm and tact in the dictionary and did not see papadan's picture there.

I frankly appreciate the detail that goes into Howie's posts. That takes a lot of effort.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


The drawers will fit tightly between the glides. The glides will glide once mounted. I usually start at the bottom when doing a stack of drawers. Make spacers for each side, that works for all of the drawers spacing and then place them on the bottom and work your way up. I haven't looked thru your design, so don't know if that works for you.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...





> I looked up charm and tact in the dictionary and did not see papadan s picture there.
> 
> *I frankly appreciate the detail that goes into Howie s posts*. That takes a lot of effort.
> 
> - RichTaylor


Sorry Rich, but he didn't tell us how far it is to the borg or what he drove!


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


LOL well why did you read all 28 entries? Must have been of some interest to you. 


> Sorry Rich, but he didn t tell us how far it is to the borg or what he drove!
> 
> - papadan


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Hello Not So Happy Howie

Lose the measuring devices, journrals, calculations and just have a story stick and then build to fit.
On the good side at least we can enjoy life without one pesky member for a while. (maybe)
Keep at it, at least its not too small


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


I have only taken positive things away from Lumberjocks. For the novice that I am in woodworking, I have only received great advice, pointers and help on this forum.

Certainly I know that my writing or posts are not for everyone. I probably wound not follow myself with this amount of detail I write. In fact, other than the few comments some make I do not know if anyone is reading what I write anyway. It hasn't been made like homework required reading, I don't think.

What I do know is that for me writing at the end of the day is therapeutic. Maybe I just have too much time on hands. What I am just trying to do is get through my days. Woodworking and writing takes my mind off my troubles. If I am loading too much of myself on you all I am sorry. I can quit. The truth is it has been surprising for me to read that some have encouraged me to continue to write… So I have. But I know I am not required to…

Since I have started this hobby in 2014, I have only had fun. I do not have to earn a living from it. I do not have to satisfy anyone else's expectation for quantity or quality of work. I don't have of quality scale of measurement other than my own expectations along with my desire to learn new things and techniques. I make mistakes, but I try to solve my problems and errors. Some more experienced here have been very helpful to me and I appreciated it. I hope I have said so. The wedged corner block really comes to mind that helped me fix the legs on my walnut nightstand project.

I am an engineer by education and vocation. In that trade I have been taught not only how to make things work, but also why things work they way they do. It is part of my personality. It is probably why I am detailed to a fault. My workshop journal is just an extension of my lab work and record from college physics and chemistry some forty plus years ago. It gave me a process then to use in education and work, it is part of my personality; however, how bland it may be to some.

I have a single man shop. I do not know if a woodworking master lives in a neighborhood nearby mine. I would love one-on-one instructions. What I have done is take few online instruction offers that I enjoyed: Epic Woodworking with Tom McLaughlin and Charles Neil Woodworking. What I liked most about their instruction other than their expertise? I liked them. I felt they were very good morale men. Someone I would refer my sons to for instruction.

I would be glad to learn how to use a story stick. What instruction videos I have seen so far, even by Charles Neil, has been confusing and complicated for my mind. If you have video taped instruction or can refer me to a source, I'll take it.

I have only enjoyed this hobby. It has been a fun experience for me. I can look back on everyday and get satisfaction for what was built or done for that day and to set goals for the next. I cannot work for long periods of time in a day so it takes quite a while to complete a project. If short deadlines was the goal, then I would build only simple things. This project has been challenging and a worthwhile experience for learning for me. I hope I have conveyed that thought in these posts.

I know that not all people enjoy the journey to a destination. I am just a person that enjoys the destination and the journey to it. I have spent severals days at Grand Canyon and the Monument Valley Four-Corners area and I have enjoyed the drive through the mountain passes and the beautiful valleys along US Highway 89 to get there and back.

Happy was nickname that was given, not chosen. Someone thought I was happy, maybe. I was just trying to get through bad days in the office that had a sour morale. Instead of bad-mouthing our boss behind his back, I tried to lighten the mood by commenting as I walked into the office about the beautiful morning, the sunrise, or the happy song I heard a bird sing before entering that door, that morning. I believe the nickname was just a way to mark me as being different from them.

Woodworking has just been a fun thing for me to do. I can do it singularly and quietly, if required or requested.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Hello Happy Howie

Work around the measuring devices, journrals, calculations and just have a story stick and then build to fit.
You still need to measure but the reference measurements are documented there once only.
They come to their own with repetition work. They may be as simple as a piece of wood with screw layout holes positioned on them. lay it on the work and drill away confidently knowing each will correspond exactly

You would have used them but possibly did not realise what their name was.
I dont recall how many matching mistakes I have made by just using two different tapes.
On the good side we all enjoy our woodworking regardless of it ends up in the waste bin/footpath or whatever 
Being at least above the ground each day we can enjoy the current life.
Keep at it, at least its not too small


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


I start at the top and work down, you can use the same piece of wood, cutting it shorter each time, reducing the chance of accumulated error by referencing the same point for each drawer



> The drawers will fit tightly between the glides. The glides will glide once mounted. I usually start at the bottom when doing a stack of drawers. Make spacers for each side, that works for all of the drawers spacing and then place them on the bottom and work your way up. I haven t looked thru your design, so don t know if that works for you.
> 
> - builtinbkyn


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


When I've had tight cabinet draws [and I've had my share] I've just run them threw the table saw to shave off a tad on both sides and all was good.
I haven't read throw all the posts just this one but I too love writing about my work after a day in the shop.
It may not help others but love being able to look back and see the progress I've made and then a year later read it and remember all the work I put in to it.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


I have pondered this past day why I write. I have never been good at it. To write a few sentences is not an easy task for me. I recall wondering if my friends in school who could write so well, so easy and fluently had they received that talent as a gift.

English and writing was my huge weakness all through school, including my undergraduate studies.

It was only in graduate school where I began to learn how to write. I was challenged by a very demanding professor. Twice a week he had us submitting written case work studies. After reading the case we had to analyze the company, its executives and the business problem described although those issues may be vague as in real life. Without the Internet and Google much of our research was in the university's library and its resources. These were real business issues we had to solve.

Dr Jimmy Dean Barnes expected us to clearly present the critical issues that had to be solved. We had to write a winning action plan. We were expected, if required, to also present an oral argument of our proposal to that company's board of directors-our classmates and our professor. A single word typo would cost you a grade. Your paper could have earned an A but with the misspelled word or typo error it only got a B. Two words misspelled was a C and in graduate school that was failing. That was a motivation to be thorough in my proof reading.

I learned a lot from this professor, but I know I have not mastered writing skills. So I continue to practice. What words should I use? And, what order or sequence would work best? That is how my engineer's brain analyzes my attempts to communicate. Left brain or right brain. I can use only what I bring to the table or what God has bestowed on me.

I often witness people with great writing skills. They are great story tellers. I recently asked Charles Schwarz how he became such a great writer, story teller. Was it simply his DNA? His reply was not unexpected. For him it started from being assigned to write 500 articles in a year for the newspaper that employed him. Like his woodworking skills: it has been practice, practice, practice.

I know I need to improve my skills in wood work and communication. When I write for this blog I am trying to exercise and master a challenging skill to take my thoughts and ideas and to present words logically and clearly so a reader will understand my point. If I did the work right, it should have been easy task for them.

This will be my last post. Papadan was right. I have spent too much on this part. I will take the time spent here to learn a new skill set. I hopefully can learn how to sketch, draw and paint with watercolors. I think that will be fun and challenging too. Maybe impossible for this engineer, but being challenged has never deterred me.

Thank you all for your help and advice given me freely. It has been much appreciated.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


In my opinion, you are introducing way more chance for error. Your method requires measuring and cutting multiple times. I only need to measure once and make a single spacer that fits between the location of each successive drawer glide, using the previously installed glide as support and reference for the spacer. I use the same spacer for the left and right side. Provided the drawers are all of the same size you only need one piece of sheet goods. You just have to ensure the bottom glides are both level front to back and side to side. Referencing off of the bottom is usually fine for this, but I always check. If the drawers are of differing sizes, you just need to make a spacer to accommodate that difference. Why make multiple measurements and multiple cuts where something can go wrong?


> I start at the top and work down, you can use the same piece of wood, cutting it shorter each time, reducing the chance of accumulated error by referencing the same point for each drawer
> 
> The drawers will fit tightly between the glides. The glides will glide once mounted. I usually start at the bottom when doing a stack of drawers. Make spacers for each side, that works for all of the drawers spacing and then place them on the bottom and work your way up. I haven t looked thru your design, so don t know if that works for you.
> 
> ...


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Please don't let one voice stop your progress.
I went back and read about half your posts and there's some great incites for someone starting out in wood working.
Some don't like to read posts [I won't name names LOL but they do quack] others like me get more out of written posts *with pictures* than I do videos.
Did you happen to see how many have read this post?
*Over 2500* !!!! Need I say more.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Have to agree here. I wouldn't let anyone spoil what gives you enjoyment in the hobby. I blog about my projects. It helps me to see the progress and where I could have done things differently. I also hope it helps others or it at least gives them an idea of how a finished project went together and the thought process that went into it. I'll always be a novice woodworker and having a written and pictorial record of things is something I can look back on for reference of how to or not to do something.

However I will say this - I blog incorrectly - meaning I use one thread for the entire project rather than a separate blog entry for each stage. I know it's wrong, but it's also easier to follow as a reader rather than having to click thru every blog entry link. So my blog gets buried. That's fine. If anyone had interest in the subject, they'll subscribe and follow along or at least keep tabs on it when it pops back to the top of the "Pulse" page for a time and maybe someone new finds it too. Otherwise it's there just for me to look back on


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...





> I start at the top and work down, you can use the same piece of wood, cutting it shorter each time, reducing the chance of accumulated error by referencing the same point for each drawer
> 
> - cutmantom


+10

No chance of accumulative variances adding up to make your next guides unlevel.

I mark my drawer front positions and spacing in between the fronts on the edge of the cabinet. When I cut down the board for the next size I just measure the appropriate mark and add 1/4". Since I put all my guides on in the same drawer location it puts the bottom of each drawer 1/4 " up from the bottom of the drawer front.
Never a problem. At worst, it uses a little bigger pc of wood but I always seem to have scrap that works.

That's my system. Use what ever system works for you, no wrong or right!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Thats a black mark for you htl !!!... standy for the reply! I can hardly wait!!


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


I really did not know that my entries have been read or opened that many times. The capabilities of this site are even more impressive than I have thought.

Again I've learned better techniques than I would have employed because of advice given here. I will study story sticks until I understand their use so I can incorporate them into my project planning and use. The advice to use one spacer for positioning the metal slides is excellent.

Thank you, everyone…


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Just sharing the results of my method I described above.

I just put these drawers in today using the board to mount the top first and cutting down for the next.
All the drawers in each section are different heights. 
Every one went in like clockwork, straight and level, and parallel to each other and they work perfectly.

Trying to figure out spacers for each set (to me) would have been more work than just cutting 1 board down for each set.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Don't let the negativity of one person exert that much influence on you or your hobby!

Good posts, good reads, good progress. Thanks for sharing.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


With good advice I have received from members here, I will continue to blog my experiences in my shop. How often I do that may change. Probably less than what I have done before, but we will see.

These past few days I have followed my doctor's advice to stay off my foot so it can heal. My wound is a repeat of a sore I had back in 2009. It is sort of a bed sore; a pressure sore or wound. It gets ugly and potentially it could be deadly, if not treated. Mine recent trouble looked ugly, but I am under a good doctor's care. He says it is healing and doing so because I have been on my arse more than my foot. I am hoping to be back into my woodshop soon. I have those drawers to fit and hang into my tool cabinet's bay. I look forward to storing my tools in this cabinet.

As I mentioned earlier, I am taking instructions for sketching and painting with watercolors. Advice from Charles Neil to add green to the reddish dye I mixed in order to get the dye more brown as I wanted was a big deal to me. That concept opened a whole new world to me of color theory. One that I wanted to explore further. Besides sketching and painting can be done while I sit on my arse. That is what I have doing these past week.

I have received great advice from several members on how to use my spacer to hang these metal slides and my drawers. Using a single spacer is sound advice. That advice to use only one spacer got through my thick skull easily. By using only one drawer spacer will eliminate the chance to introduce errors in measurement and cutting errors from using two spacers as I intended to do.

I have read where one member cut his spacer that includes the additional 1/4 inch that he uses to mount his slides that distance above his drawer front's bottom edge. He does it that way because his drawer fronts are a 1/4 inch lower than his drawer sides, and back parts, I think. For the drawers I made my drawer fronts (both poplar fronts and sapele false drawer fronts) are the same size and their bottom edges are flush with each other and the drawer sides bottom's edge. Therefore, for my installation in this tool cabinet I will continue to use the 1/4 inch deep metal slide spacer I made to sit upon my MDF drawer spacer. This way my metal slides can be mounted a 1/4 inches above the bottom edges of my drawers. It is an added step, but I do see the advantage of the other member's method.

Hopefully, I can report of my drawers being mounted in this tool cabinet soon… I'll be back!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?*
> 
> I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear this, Howie! Good luck on the drawer predicament, and I'm looking forward to more updates.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Drawers: Planed, Pared and Hung*

HAND PLANES AND PARING CHISEL USED TO GET PROUD JOINTS FLUSH TO DRAWER PART SURFACES

For those that have followed my blog entries for this project, my last entry was a few weeks ago. Back then I had witnessed that my drawers seemed to be too wide, but after further measurements and inspection my drawers were just very tight. I needed to pare or make flush the proud dovetail joints on the corners of these drawer boxes.










I have not worked in my shop for three weeks because I have been following my doctor's instruction to stay off my left foot. I have a pressure sore or wound on its heel. My doctor reminded me that the only way these types of wound heal are by staying off of my feet, or foot. I did get into my shop for a few hours last week where I did clean up these dovetail joints for all seven drawers.









For the backend of the drawers it was easy to clamp the drawers to my benchtop and use my #3 Wood River bench plane to get the proud joints flush to the side and back boards. I tried using my shoulder plane to work the proud joints that are aligned with my sapele false drawer fronts. Finally, it dawned on me to use my long Narex paring chisel to do this work. I should have thought of using my paring chisel much earlier. I had a very sharp edge on this chisel. I kept it that way by simply touching the edge up on my leather strop.









I purposely designed this cabinet so my drawers would fit tightly between its metal slides. I paid particular attention to keeping the case square and especially when I installed the center panel divider. I had made a mistake on my first large dresser with its panel divider. I had a devil of time mounting those drawers because the front to back dimension was not square, the same. I ended up using wedges or spacers to get those metal slides to fit properly. So I hope I am learning from my past mistakes.

It seems that I have done a lot better this time around with this cabinet. I am proud of the drawers I made for this project and how they now hang in its bay.









I have embedded a few photographs of the work I did to plane and pare the proud joints flush to the side and back drawer part surfaces.

I had mounted the first two top drawers prior to today's work. So entering my shop this morning I had plans to complete hanging the remaining five drawers. 









LARGE MDF SPACER USED TO MOUNT METAL SLIDES AND DRAWERS

I had received great advice here on Lumberjocks on how I should proceed using the MDF spacer. I was using two MDF spacers to hang the top drawer. I took the advice from several members to use just one spacer instead of two so I would not encounter differences in their lengths. How I employed using this single MDF spacer is in the manner I have described in detail below:

I would clamp the 3/4 inch thick MDF spacer to the center panel. It was cut to the length or height that I needed to mount the drawer in its bay. My drawer sides, back and front parts (including my false drawer front) are all flush to each other for their bottom and top edges. So my drawers will sit on top of this MDF spacer. For my metal drawer slides I am positioning those 1/4 inch above the bottom edge of the drawers. I am therefore placing this small 1/4 thick hardwood spacer on top of the large MDF spacer. I am placing the metal slide so it is sitting on top of the small 1/4 inch tall spacer. With the metal drawer slide held in place and its front edge aligned flush to my 1/4 inch offset (which is the thickness of my sapele false drawer fronts) I fasten the metal slides with the #8 panhead screws that came in the slide kit. I fasten the screws one at time, from the front to the back by pre-drilling the screw hole with my center-hole drill bit. I use bee's wax on the screws. I use my impact driver to fasten the screw, but finish the fastening with my short phillips handheld screw driver.

Once the first slide is fastened, I transfer the MDF spacer to the other side of the bay, place the small 1/4 thick spacer on top of it and fasten that slide to its panel.









For this tool cabinet, I have followed a Woodsmith plan. The center divider is a 3/4 inch Maple plywood panel. The plan called for two 1 1/2 inch thick poplar hardwood spacers to be glued to the inside surface of the outside panel of this cabinet's case. The two spacers were needed because of the width of the cabinet's face frame stretcher. The stretchers in this face frame were 1 1/4 inch wide. Thus, the 1 1/2 inch thick spacers were needed so the metal slides would be mounted to the two thick spacers. If I was to make this project again, I would add a third 1 1/2 inch thick spacer and glue or fasten it so I could use the middle screw holes in the metal slides. As it is now, I could only use screws holes in the very front and back of the metal slide on this side of the drawer bay. I did use four screw holes into these thick spacers; two screws in the front portion and two in the back of the slide.









After mounting both metal slides for a drawer, I then used both large MDF spacers to hold the drawer in its height position while I fastened the metal slide to its drawer. I would pull the metal slide out a few inches so the first screw hole was accessible so I could pre-drill the screw hole. If my large MDF spacer was positioned against the center divider, I would fasten that metal slide to the drawer. I would again work from the front to the back by pre-drilling centered screw holes. I would pull the drawer out just enough so I could fasten the first screw. Then I would pull the drawer out further so I could then fasten another screw closer to the center of the slide and drawer. I discovered that I could not get the very back screw hole to be visible to work on while the drawer was mounted to the slide. Thus, I left the drawer hung as it was and I would transfer the large MDF spacer to the other side of the cabinet bay. It would switch positions with the other MDF spacer. This swap was done so I was always using the same MDF spacer to fasten the slide to the drawer (as was done with fastening the metal slide to the cabinet case). I would then fasten the slide to the drawer on this opposite side of the drawer, front to back.

Since I was unable to fasten the back screws to the drawer, after both sides of the drawer were fastened to the slides, I would dismount the drawer and complete fastening the slide to the drawer with screws at the backend of the slide. There were already enough screws in the metal slide fastened to the dismounted drawer so I was confident that the slide was in its proper position and would not move, if I was careful in drilling a hole and fastening the remaining screws. I made it a habit to fasten two screws in the backend of the metal slide to each drawer.

After a drawer has been mounted then I would cut the large MDF spacer to its new shorter length on my SawStop table saw. I use a cross-cut sled that I know is square to the blade. I use William Ng's Five Cuts to a Perfect Cross-cut Sled method to make sure my sled is square.

With the MDF spacer cut to its new shorter length, I would then repeat the process above until all the drawers were mounted. 









For the last drawer, the length of the MDF spacer is measured by marking the location of the face frame that must be cleared. I then cut that MDF spacer to that mark by leaving the pencil line. I used a stop block on my table saw to mark the length of the standard spacer and to cut the second MDF spacer to that length.

WHAT'S NEXT?
I have two remaining tasks to complete this tool cabinet build. I have magnetic door catches to fasten; one for each of the four doors on this cabinet. Plus, I have four door knobs to place; one on each door.

BUTT HINGES, HELP ME!

Note: If I was more experienced in mortising and placing butt hinges, I might know how to adjust the butt hinges I have mounted to this cabinet's face frame and doors. One door out of four hangs okay. The rest do not close or stay in their closed position. I suspect I may have to readjust how these three butt hinges as fastened to the face frame and its door. I am going to search the Internet and my subscription to Fine Woodworking Magazine online site to see if anyone has given instructions on how to adjust butt hinges for a better fitting door. I hope there will be some answers so I do not have to blindly make changes and hope for the best. I am worried that I will strip out the screw holes before I get a good solution. If someone here on Lumberjocks can provide help, I am a willing student.


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

*Project Completed: Lessons Learned*

Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned

A few months ago I noticed how many storage and toolboxes I had sitting flat on my garage floor. I decided to make them more mobile in the simplest manner possible. I took one of my dolly carts bought from Harbor Freight Tools, placed a 2 by 4 foot sheet of plywood on it, then began stacking the Rubbermaid storage boxes, etc on top of it. This made the items mobile but the tools and items in them were not easily accessible. This problem got me thinking and planning a better storage solution.

In my search I found a Woodsmith plan in their Shop Notes Library that I liked a lot. They named the plan their Roll Around Tool Cabinet. One of the reasons I selected this plan was because it would challenge my woodworking skill set. Prior to this build I had not built a frame and panel project. I decided to deviate from the written plan in a few of its features or techniques. I was making these changes so I could test and implement other new techniques that I wanted to learn.

The things I chose to change in the plan were these:

I would use full dadoes and rabbet joinery in fastening the case together instead of Woodsmith's preferred method of tongue and groove joints. *Lesson learned:* I learned this lesson long ago. The tongue and groove method unless cut precisely can be very weak. I simply choose to avoid the chance of breakage by cutting full dadoes and rabbits for my casework.

Instead of using pocket hole joinery for the cabinet's face frame, I was going to learn how to cut mortises with my router and employ loose tenon joinery with this project being my first application. I had constructed a universal mortise jig in prior months to starting this project. This would be my first project using this jig to cut its mortises. *Lesson learned:* I got a very strong joint in this face frame by using loose tenons. I was very impressed with the joint's strength and the ease, really, of routing the mortises with my mortising jig as well as the ease of making the loose tenon parts with many scrap pieces of lumber in my shop. Why not use my lumber scraps for this purpose? I will be using more loose tenons in other projects for here on out!

For the seven drawers in this plan I decided I would use dovetail joinery instead of Woodsmith's drawer lock method. Also I wanted to see if I could cut these dovetails using my table saw. I had read articles in magazines and seen experienced woodworkers cut dovetails on their table saws. I wondered what was really involved to cut dovetails with my table saw. *Lesson learned:* I did not achieve a well made dovetail with this table saw method even though I made a great jigs to cut the tails and the pins. I abandoned the process after my first attempts with test pieces. I may test this method again, but not anytime soon.

When I began searching to purchase the plan's H & L door hinges, I decided I would use butt hinges instead for this cabinet's four doors. I had never used butt hinges before so I wanted to learn how to mortise for these hinges as well as learn the techniques for their installation and fitting. * Lesson learned:* The costs for well made butt hinges were approximately the same cost of the H&L hinges. These were the first butt hinges I have installed. I did tests on scrap pieces of lumber using shopmade mortising jigs for these butt hinges and specifically made for this project. Those tests went well so I installed my 8 butt hinges for this cabinet's four doors. Result: I got only one door that hang well. These were inset doors within the face frame of the cabinet. The other three doors did not close well. I have not been able to find a good magazine or online article explaining how to adjust butt hinges to get better fitting doors. I have not attempted to adjust my hinges as yet. I may not choose to use butt hinges again on any other project. I have used European hinges before and their installation and adjustments went well. I know how easily they can be adjusted for fitting the doors correctly.

When I went to my hardwood store to buy the lumber for this project I already had in mind that I would find a nice plank of hardwood that I would re-saw into ¼ inch thick false drawer fronts. I have done false drawer fronts like this before on other projects in order to make the through dovetails look like half-blind dovetails. At MacBeath Hardwood I found this beautiful four foot length 8/4 of rough sawn Sapele. Finding this beautiful figured hardwood seemed like fate. Sold. I bought it for the great look it would give these seven stacked drawers.* Lesson learned:* I loved every experience in working with this Sapele hardwood plank. I plan to find uses for Sapele hardwood again on other projects..

I had intended to paint this project after I had completed its build. That is exactly what Woodsmith did. Those plans changed after I had recently joined Charles Neil's Master Woodworking online instruction. I had bought a couple of his wood finishing books. One of those was his recipes for using dyes. That spurred me to change my plans. I selected his Red Cherry Mahogany recipe for my tool cabinet that was made from poplar hardwood, Baltic Birch and Maple plywood. After testing this recipe on a small sample of Baltic Birch I decided I wanted more brown in the dye. I added a ½ part of green to the 20 ounce bottle I had made. That gave me the right blend that I wanted. I committed to using dye for this shop made tool cabinet. Why not experiment with these shop projects?* Lesson learned:* I enjoyed all aspects of using dyes on this projects. I discovered that a dye can make ordinary poplar look like much more expensive hardwoods. With more practice I bet I could get really good at applying dyes to projects. Oh, yeah. Charles Neil sprays his dye. After my experiment with my HVLP spray gun, I will only rag on my dyes. I know my needle was a size too large, but the droplets went everywhere. I won't do that to my garage shop again.

Lastly, I have not mounted metal slides stacked like these seven are stacked, one on top of each other. The Woodsmith guys said they used a plywood or MDF spacer panel in order to locate the height of the slides and drawers. However, they did not write the details of how that was accomplished. When I presented photos of how I did my first two rows in this cabinet, I got a lot of good comments on how I should be using a story stick and / or one spacer instead of two for the placement of the slides and drawers. I learned a lot of good points from these member's comments here on Lumberjocks. I implemented them. I believe I came out with a better understanding of how and why I should only use one baseline spacer so accuracy is maintained in my woodworking builds; so thank you, everyone. *Lesson learned:* I really like the input I get from members here on Lumberjocks. They help me become a better woodworker. Thank you.

I will learn to use story sticks and will use only one measured spacer or measuring device from here on out. That alone will help me avoid mistakes.

I decided this cabinet did not need another coat of polyurethane finish. What I did do to finish the cabinet is buff on a thin coat of dark brown paste wax; Staples I believe is the brand name. I like the feel of wood over a plastic hardness that I would simply get with thick coats of polyurethane. I am willing to buff wax my projects every now and then.

I am still looking for instructions on how to adjust butt hinges so the cabinet doors will close more easily. When I find a good written article I will begin to make those adjustments. Until then I can live and manage with my 3 out of 4 doors not closing so nicely as it now exists.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

HappyHowie said:


> *Project Completed: Lessons Learned*
> 
> Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned
> 
> ...


That's a thing of beauty Howie. You should be very proud of it.


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Project Completed: Lessons Learned*
> 
> Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned
> 
> ...


Nicely done, great work, and a good blog to follow along with you.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

HappyHowie said:


> *Project Completed: Lessons Learned*
> 
> Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned
> 
> ...


Howie your persistence paid off. It's a sharp looking cabinet. Nice work!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

HappyHowie said:


> *Project Completed: Lessons Learned*
> 
> Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned
> 
> ...


The finish and look of that wood is really nice! Congrats on completion, always good to be done after a long build. Great write-up too. Thanks Howie!


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## HappyHowie (Jan 27, 2013)

HappyHowie said:


> *Project Completed: Lessons Learned*
> 
> Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned
> 
> ...


It is a nice feeling to complete a great project like this one.. And, I learned a lot from this project; both from my experience working and great members freely giving their great advice. Thanks.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

HappyHowie said:


> *Project Completed: Lessons Learned*
> 
> Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned
> 
> ...





> It is a nice feeling to complete a great project like this one.. And, I learned a lot from this project; both from my experience working and great members freely giving their great advice. Thanks.
> 
> - HappyHowie


Thanks for sharing, Howie. That's how I feel at the end of a project. I learned a lot and made some mistakes that I will try not to make next time.


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