# Earlex 5500 Waterborne Paints



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

A while back I purchased the Earlex 5500 spray station. I went with this product for its ability to spray latex and waterborne finishes in general. The reviews say it sprays latex very well. I've done my research and no matter what I try the results are lack luster. I have added water, floetrol, both and no matter what the atomization is poor. I have tried 100% acrylic and still no joy. I even switched to a Wagner paint conditioner specifically marketed for spray systems. I keep reading about people who have issues spraying latex and don't see any real solutions being generated with a positive result. If you are going tell me hvlp was never intended for latex please don't comment. I bought a product that touted the ability to spray latex and other viscous materials and I expect it to perform.

I have tried both the 2.0 and 1.5 mm needles and the results are always similar. Per Earlex's recommendations I am targeting 45-60 sec viscosity with a 1.5 mm needle. I am spraying at the recommended 4-6 inches away (for furniture).

If you know of a specific paint product (waterborne) that sprays very well please (I beg you) give me a formula. I feel like I'm chasing a mythical unicorn.

I don't want to hear about your 6900 and how well it sprays anything, I don't own that unit and it has a significant bump in psi.

I am at the end of my rope and quite frankly ready to torch this project if I have to sand another coat of orange peel.

Thanks,

Sorry if I come across a little coarse, I'm really frustrated.


----------



## Fish22 (Nov 16, 2009)

Hawk_guy

I would go to the link below. The guys at Topcoat are really helpful. You should reach out for Scott Burt, he may take a few days to get back to you, but he should be able to help you out. If you get the answers and results after reaching out for them, please post so others may be helped.

I have the same unit, but haven't tried spraying paint yet.

http://topcoatreview.com/2011/09/testing-earlex-spraystation-5500-hvlp


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

I am just getting in to spraying finishes this year. I've got the Earlex 6900 but I doubt that changes things very much.

Practice on cardboard boxes or paper taped to a wall until you find a "formula" that works for you - finish / viscosity / needle / flow setting / spray distance / spray speed.

You may want to PM Earlextech. I found his suggestions very helpful.

I have tried latex primer and paint and found them to be the most viscous and most difficult. I thinned mine to 140 seconds. I used the 2.0mm needle but will try the 2.5mm needle next time. At times I did get a rough texture after drying. My guess is that the paint is too dry when it hits the work. I increased the material flow and moved the gun rather slowly and this problem got better.

I have sprayed General Finishes Endruo Poly - white base, white pigmented poly, and clear poly. They spray very nicely with a 1.5 mm needle and no thinning. In this case, particularly with the clear poly, I have to keep the gun moving to avoid drips - 2 to 4 times the speed I was using when spraying latex.

All of these finishes can be brushed and light brush marks will tend to self-level. I don't think it takes much of a sprayer to do better than a brush. I think the only requirement for successful spraying is to get a wet coat of finish at an appropriate thickness. Drips obviously mean that the coat is too thick. Rough texture suggest to me that the finish isn't forming a wet layer - too much air and too little finish.

Also, I need to wipe off the gun tip regularly when spraying water-based finishes.

I think latex paints fall in the "sweet spot" of airless sprayers, but are more towards the limit of what HVLP sprayers can do. Clear finishes (including the pigmented poly) fall in the "sweet spot" for HVLP sprayers.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I agree with GregD. "I think the only requirement for successful spraying is to get a wet coat of finish at an appropriate thickness. Drips obviously mean that the coat is too thick. Rough texture suggest to me that the finish isn't forming a wet layer - too much air and too little finish."

Orange peel is the result of the finish drying too fast and not having enough time to level out.

I would thin less, maybe 10% or one viscosity cup of water into a quart of paint. Then add two ounces of Floetrol.
Acrylic does not spray as well as regular latex. Stir with a paddle mixer in a drill for one minute. Medium speed.

About 6" away from project is probably right.

What is the project?


----------



## Flocktothewall (Jan 16, 2011)

Listen to Earlex Tech… he knows. I have the 5500. I have sprayed MANY paint products. Unfortunately I bought it to spray clear finishes and 7 of 10 times I use it is with Latex Paint not what I wanted to do.

I've found that Latex with Primer mixed in is horrid to use.

Flotrol helps alot also, I picked that up from Jeff Jewitt's finishing book.

I've sprayed Behr, Valspar, Sherwin Williams, and Vista Paint (I think they are just local). I did some bead-boarded wainscotting in my daughters room and decided I didn't want to mask the entire room off to spray, so I brushed/rolled. *That lasted about 30 min, and then I masked the room off and sprayed.*

Keep in mind, that to get a completely BUMP FREE surface from Paint, you will need ALOT of force for atomization. Everyone of my paint projects has a slight texture to it, but having rolled about 30 square feet of primer on my daughters wainscotting, the spray texture is *LESS* noticeable than the *roll texture.*



















IF you want a glass like finish you'll need a several step process of priming/sanding/painting/sanding/buffing, and may also want to consider spraying a tinted lacquer. General finishes sells WB tinted poly, that is what cabinet makers often use.

Also using Acrylic enamel vs Vinyl enamel will make a difference I believe. For me, I just have an understanding of REASONABLE expectations with the 5500, its totally capable, but if your expecting a lacquer like finish of a latex paint, I don't think its going to happen. After all, with the exception of milk paint, very few furniture/cabinetry is painted, its lacquered. Its a harder surface.

Here is a project used with the Earlex, sprayed Clear Poly on finished desk, Shellac as a sealer/primer, and Latex.












A couple of thoughts, there have been numerous threads about this subject, don't examine your finished project from 6" away, no one looks at it like that… Take a step back.

Here is what I do:
*Thin* the paint - it depends on the manufacturer (they're all different) after a while you'll know and won't have to use the viscosity cup. I'd recommend Jeff Jewitt's spray finishing book also. You may have to thin more than you think.

Try flotrol, it helps the paint stay wet, and level better.

I use the 1.5mm needle usually when spraying latex, I've had better luck with that one.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Hello, thanks for the outpouring of useful information I really appreciate it.

Forgot to mention I am painting a bed for my daughter. I'm painting over natural wood (a mix of birch plywood and poplar). I started with rustoleum painters touch. Used their primer and a gloss kona color. The kona is like and espresso with a dark red tint. I could not get this to level well. I thought it was mostly do to the poor atomization. I'm starting to gather the it has a bit to do with how thick the paint layer is. The paint is drying fast, as in 20 minutes tops (to the touch).

I also tied behr 100% acrylic enamel. Not very happy with the results it dried with high spots everywhere but seemed to atomize best. I used only a flow additve to achieve 45-60 sec viscosity without going over or under the recommended amount. No water was necessary so I don't understand why it dried so fast. I I've in FL and the humidity is high.

I've heard of pigmented laquers but don't know much about them. At this point I'd prefer to fish with latex but have to admit I will never spray latex again.

It sounds like I'm going to have to get a turbine with a lot more stages. I'm kicking myself for not getting the 6900 but feel like I've been seriously misled about what the 5500 can do.

So it sounds like nobody has found that magic latex paint from the Earlex tutorial on how to spray latex?


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Luke, thanks for posting I'm going to Google books now to purchase the book you recommended.


----------



## ScottBurt (Apr 30, 2014)

Hey guys,

I saw the link come through my topcoat site. I have heard great things about this forum, so thought I would throw my $.02 in, and that is about what it is worth.

The Earlex 5500 is a really good bang for your buck rig. It absolutely delivers value for its price tag. We run several units that cost 4 times as much, and sure there is a difference, but in it's price range, the 5500 is without equal.

To the op, I think the biggest reason that you are getting orange peel is because you are too close to your target. 4-6" is too close in any situation, in my opinion. IF you are moving slowly on top of that, it would be compounded. Back it off and speed it up.

To all members, absolutely feel free to call upon me for any finishing tips I may be able to help with.

Thanks!


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Hawk Guy - you might try Valspar Signature latex from Lowes. I always have great luck with it personally. 
By the way, Floetrol is not a thinner. Water is the proper thinner for latex paint. Floetrol is an additive that breaks the surface tension of the droplets, allowing them to level (Floe) out. Two different things that can be used in conjuction.
I wouldn't use Floetrol when painting a fence, only on "fine" finished materials such as trim, cabinetry or furniture. Thin with water to the correct viscosiy, then add two ounces of flow agent per quart of paint.


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

Hawk Guy -

I suspect there are other, more likely causes to your frustrations than the differences between the 5500 and 6900. The fix is probably something simple; figuring out what that fix is might be a bit more challenging.

Do you have appropriate expectations for a latex finish? Luke gets a slight texture; me too. But I'm satisfied so long as the finish is at least as smooth as my best results with a brush. It is taking some practice and experimenting, but I think I'm getting to the point where spraying gives me a better finish with less effort, and on a good day I get a pretty good result with a brush.

With the polyurethane finishes there is no question that spraying is even now gives me much better results with less effort than brushing. It is quick and easy to lay down a thin wet layer - provided I have enough light.

Don't give up. It will come.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

GregD, I agree with you on what to expect. My real concern here is that I cannot achieve proper atomization of latex. Without that crucial step there is no real expectation that any results will be favorable. That's my beef with this unit. I'll keep playing around with paints and viscosities and see what I get. I gave "Spraying Made Easy" by Jeff Jewett a read last night and I feel like a good amount of new info has presented itself.

Earlextech, I appreciate the tips. I'll give the Valspar a go.


----------



## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I have the 6900, which I know you're not interested in hearing about but I have also had good results with the Valspar Signature and Olympic Premium paints. I have had my best results with the 2.0 needle, spraying latex paints.


----------



## Flocktothewall (Jan 16, 2011)

Hawk_Guy

Being that you're painting furniture, I'd HIGHLY recommend that you look into Pigmented Poly. If you google it, you can find a few websites (I'm not sure if I am allowed to refer them) But Jeff Jewitts homestead finishing site sells GF products, and you can have the Poly tinted with any color of General Finish Milk Paint Pigment.

In that case you will have a smooth finish that is harder and more durable to abrasion than Latex paint is. And you won't have that "sticky" latex feel that takes a while for the resins to sit.

General Finishes Enduro Poly

Homestead Finishing Colors


----------



## grittyroots (Jan 13, 2011)

Hawk_Guy
I have just bought the same machine. I used Lowes top shelf paint. I started by thinning as the manual said. It wasn't working for me either. I then changed out the paint with unthinned paint and it worked a lot better I stll needed to play with it. I would also stay farther back. Good luck


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Luke, I'll definitely look into those products. What little research I've done has shown that those products are difficult to purchase in specific colors.

Thought I'd post an update. Tonight, determined to make latex paint atomize I went through several iterations starting with floetrol and water. After 5 iterations taking the viscosity from 80 to 38 the paint still does not atomize correctly using a 1.5 mm needle. Its a mix of fine droplets and medium blotches. I was using Behr interior latex enamel for trim, 100% acrylic. I'm convinced this isn't going to work out with the 5500.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Hawk Guy - Luke is correct. Latex is never a proper finish for furniture or cabinets. A pigmented top coat is what you should be spraying. Latex is not designed to be sprayed, all other finishes are.

You can get pigmented top coats in any color. That's the point, get your clear finish, get you trans tint colorant and add the two together to get the proper density of color you want. Try your local Woodcraft store. You won't find proper finishes at the big box stores.

Behr paint and 100% acrylic are two of the worst things to put through a two stage HVLP. I'm not surprised it didn't work.

One more tip about the 5500 - the airflow is constant, it never changes. If you put too much fluid into the air it can be overwhelmed. If that happens it will atomize what it can and it will spit the rest out. If you're getting a mixture of big and little droplets then you have too much fluid in the airflow. Cut back on the flow rate and move slower across the project to spray a "wet" coat.


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

Behr paint and 100% acrylic are two of the worst things to put through a two stage HVLP

Boy, do I know how to pick 'em. My first 3 attempts using my new HVLP rig were Sherwin-Williams interior primer, Pro-Classic acrylic latex gloss and Emerald semi-gloss. These were messy and not so much fun. But now that I've done it a few times I think it works out OK and will do it again in certain situations (trim, smooth walls). In my case I thinned with water to get the viscosity just within the range for my gun. That turned out to be about 4 or 5 viscosity cups of water per gallon. In my experience latex acts funny if it is thinned a lot so I didn't want to thin more than necessary. I mixed with a paddle and a high speed corded drill. Latex type paint is a thick goo and not so much fun to mix or filter.

You can get pigmented top coats in any color.

I had a little trouble here.

General Finishes suggest spraying their "milk paint" as a color coat and then 2 or 3 coats of their clear poly as a top coat. This approach offers a selection of standard colors and Woodcraft, for example, may stock what you need and can easily order what they don't stock. I don't think this option works for bright white; I found the clear coat too yellow.

The box stores carry pigmented polys in wood-like tones that are intended as an alternative to stain and clear finish on wood. You aren't going to find a bright purple, but ebony, mocha, and some deep reds. I tried brushing one of these last summer and it was horrible. In retrospect it was probably way too hot in my garage when I did it (Houston in July). I may try spraying this stuff.

General Finishes has white and black pigmented poly and an undercoat (primer). I found a specialty store that carries some of this, but not the gloss white that I wanted. I had to order through Woodcraft. Tinting the white would, I expect, give you a product with better coverage than tinting a clear finish. But if you are going for a deep, vibrant color, then you would want to start with clear and would need to live with the poor coverage (latex paint is no different).

*BUT*, my limited experience matches Sam's advice - these types of products spray *WAY EASIER* than the latex and acrylic paints that are typically applied by brush, roller, or airless sprayer.


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

Hawk guy -

One thing we might be doing differently is setting the material flow. I start with mine set for minimal flow and spray some cardboard or paper between adjustments. At first I get no paint. Increasing a bit I get a dusting of paint but poor coverage. A little more and I get better coverage but a dry textured surface. I then open it a bit more so I get a damp textured surface while moving the gun slowly. From there I open it a bit further or not depending upon how fast I want to be moving the gun (faster for larger flatter surfaces, slower for smaller detailed work).

What I would expect different between your 5500 and my 6900 is that mine might be able to handle a bit higher material flow rate so that I could maintain a damp surface at a somewhat higher gun movement speed.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Greg, I've gone through those steps all along, always starting with zero flow and gradually ramping it up. Even at minimal flow when it should produce a very fine mist there is always sputtering.

I'm just gonna go with pigmented poly. Would I be able to spay it over Sherman Williams's wood and wall primer? And what about paintable caulk? I'm asking because I did some paneling in my foyer and was going to Spray the finish coat after I had some experience under my belt.


----------



## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

Send the $500 sprayer back. I use the HF gravity feed hvlp. I spray cheap off the shelf latex paint and/or primer all the time. I thin it out till I like the way it sprays(20%-35%), and somewhere around 75 psi. No science here just thin enough to lay flat. Since I don't take the care to have a proper ratio it changes the sheen a little. To correct this I lightly sand it with 220 to make it flat and I top coat it with latex poly. That evens out the sheen and gives the finish a little depth. I know the guns are rated @ 40 psi, but who cares. I pick up 2 at a time on sale and use them till they're crap and save it for parts. I've been doing this for years and never had a problem. I will say I have a 90 gallon compressor system, A good 30 gallon will work for small stuff, I do more case work, so I need the extra volume to keep going.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Update, the earlex 5500 is getting benched. I grabbed a can of BIN Zinsser Primer (which is fantastic) and started from scratch. This primer will usually spray right out of the can. However, the mighty 5500 even sruggled to atomize the correctly with a 1.5 mm needle. It by far produces the best atomization but still needs to be thinned with danatured alcohol. That is why this 2 stage system just ain't gonna make the cut. I'm gonna grab a 4 stage Fuji mini or Capsray.

This primer is amazing, it looks like glass after a sanding with 220 sponge. Normally would have gone with 320 but mike lack of skill and equipment leave a little more to be sanded.

Does anyone know if the Gernal finishes pigmented poly sands well? I'm relying on being able to sand with minimal effort to achieve a great finish.


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

If the surface was smooth before applying a coat of General Finishes pigmented poly, then my experience is that sanding the pigmented poly is not bad at all, although sanding out drips is not so much fun. What I have heard (from Charles Neil's book, for example) is that sanding gloss is the least fun, so if you are going to do a final clear coat consider satin for the pigmented coats.

I wonder if there isn't something wrong with your 5500. The Zinsser shellac based primer sprayed great for me with no thinning.


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I have a 4 stage fuji (mini-mite 4) and love it. It sprays BIN with no thinning easily.
And I agree about the BIN. It's a wonderful primer.


----------



## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

I know someone using the 5000 and having none of the issues you are having.
So is it the unit or the user?


----------



## RocketDogs (May 5, 2014)

I have an Earlex 6900 had a similar problem….. It may just be the small brass CHECK VALVE on the left side of the gun…..unscrew the valve…...blow from the threaded end …..hopefully it will clear its self…...and your problems might be over…..........if no one else is having this problem…..it may be the gun …..not the mixture…..I called Earlex figured out the problem …...they sent me a new valve…..even though I was able to clear the problem myself….I remove the check valve after every spraying and blow it out just as a precaution…...works great every time now…..the problem was created because I turned the gun on its left side for an extended period of time trying to shoot something low on a project and material ran up the plastic tube and clogged the check valve

Hope this helps

RocketDogs


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Rocketdogs, Per your advice I removed the brass valve on the left side of the gun. Air flows freely in both directions so I don't know that it is a check valve at all.

Jeff, there is a difference in spraying a material and atomizing a material. There is also a difference in what is acceptable and what isn't and that's all just a matter of opinion. In my opinion this gun does fair with latex. Not well, not great and not good. If your friend does well with the gun then great for him. If you have no "technical" advice then I don't care to hear it.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

GregD, the Bin sprayed really well but just needed about 5% thinning to keep it really fine. I think its a matter of preference. I've had less sanding to do with it thinned out just a bit more. I gotta admit the cleanup is not so much fun. Do you have any advice on how to do that efficiently?


----------



## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

Have you tried contacting Earlex?
What about using a 2.5 needle. 1.5 is what I use in my conversion gun for solvent based finishes. Not for water based.
Would that be better.

From rockler site:
Get the best finish when spraying with your Earlex Spray Stationby using the right Fluid Tip Needle for the job! Larger needles are ideal for higher viscosity, thicker materials where the finish is less important. Smaller needles are an excellent choice when your goal is getting a high-quality finish using lower viscosity materials.

Use the 1.0mm needle for cellulose, acrylics, synthetics, polyurethane, and thinner
Use the 1.5mm needle for oil base, enamel, varnish, marine paint, water-based stains, lacquers, and shellac
*Use the 2.5mm needle for chlorinated rubber, oxide, zinc rich primer, epoxy, plastic additives, floor paving paint, and latex
*


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Jeff, the way I understand it the needle size is matched to the viscosity of the material (I could very well be wrong). I have thinned the material down to viscosities in the 30s and pushed it through both a 1.5 and 2.0 mm needle with no real atomization. I have strictly adhered to Earlex's guidelines for spraying latex. Its really just a game of psi and 2.2 ain't cutting it.


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

I don't know that there are any tricks to cleaning the gun other than to use the right solvent. It seems to get easier after you do it a bunch of times. I have the cleaning kit from Earlex, which is nice, and also one from Harbor Freight, which is inexpensive and adequate. I completely disassemble the gun most times. Sometimes I even remove the siphon tube / paint cup lid assembly. For the outside I use a plastic scrubber from the kitchen.

BTW, my paint cup holds pressure for quite some time after I shut off the turbine.

If the gun is clean and the check valve is working then maybe the turbine isn't blowing air as it should.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

I don't thing the 5500 has a check valve at all. It may have something to do with the fact that it is a bleeder type vs the 6900 which is the non bleeder type. Please someone chime in on the 5500 and let me know if it should have an actual check valve.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I have not used the Earlex 5500 but I have been spraying all types of materials for 40 years,From my experience the turbine type spray systems are not the right match for dealing with latex paint. I think a 4 stage unit is a better match but I agree with Shawn Masterson on the low cost hvlp HF guns ,I've shot a lot with them the'er one of the tools from HF worth having. If I were going to shoot latex paint all the time I would use and air less unit. On rare occasions spray equipment can be defective but the majority of the time when folks are having trouble spraying it's because of their inexperience (the nut behind the wheel) that causes the problems . I've always heard you need a larger tip for latex for the unit your using as Jeff has suggested. If you want another opinion contact Charles Neil the top expert re any type of spraying or finishing ,I know he would be glad to help.

http://www.cn-woodworking.com/contact-us/


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

You need to thin until it works….25 to 30 sec

use double the floetrol recommended amount

thin with half water and half water base poly

use the bigger tip

filter
I have the earlex 5000 and got through a few projects…I have a Fuji 4 stage now and per instructions " thin to 25 sec. and put it on wet like a lake'

http://www.fujispray.com/Fuji%20M-Manual-20120508.pdf -read page 7 and 8

don't be afraid thin until it works….I found out about the poly thinning after an long search on the internet.

also but I have not tried it: stir with a drill and you do not have to thin as much


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

I don't thing the 5500 has a check valve at all. It may have something to do with the fact that it is a bleeder type vs the 6900 which is the non bleeder type. Please someone chime in on the 5500 and let me know if it should have an actual check valve.

I'm pretty sure that both the 5500 and 6900 use the same gun. I can tell you without a doubt that the 6900 gun is a bleeder gun. The paint cup should be getting pressurized when the turbine is on. I presume the brass fitting that the plastic tube fits onto is a check valve. I've replaced my tube with aquarium airline tubing and added an aquarium airline check valve, so maybe I'm mistaken. As long as the cup gets pressure and paint isn't flowing back up the plastic tube you should be good.

Have you removed the air cap ring, air cap, and air distributor plate and made sure that everything is clean? Are the jets in the air cap ring clear?


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

OK everyone, I really appreciate all of the great advice I received. You guys were more than helpful and I am thankful for that. I've decided to put the HV5500 on craigslist and purchased the Fuji mini-mite 4 (after begging the wife to loosen up the purse strings). The fact is that I do intend to spray latex on a few projects, not furniture or cabinets, and needed to know the system I was using was up to the task. I guess we'll find out if the grass is greener. I will definitely be back with more requests for technical guidance in the future.

Thanks again!


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Nice choice. ;-)
Which gun did you go for?

I have the bottom feed xpc (previous version of what's available now) and just upgraded my setup with 3M's PPS setup. Expensive, but oh so worth it.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

NiteWalker, I went with the T70G cup gun. I loved the idea of having the gravity fed cup that can be adjusted to every spraying orientation but one pint scares me for large projects. It would suck to have to refill right in the middle of spraying.

I got the unit today and I was surprised about the build quality of the gun, it doesn't seem very robust in comparison to the Earlex gun. I guess this is because they wanted to make it as light as possible which I can certainly appreciate. My arm was killing me holding the weight of the Earlex after spraying my larger project.

Not a whole lot of guidance or information provided with the Fuji but it is more or less for someone who has experience.


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

The newer t series guns are very close in construction to the apollo 7500, and it wouldn't surprise me if they came out of the same factory. The apollo 7500 is one of the best hvlp guns ever made, if not being the current champ.

I'd get a mini cup set if you spray smaller things, and you can even buy bigger jars and tubing to make a more versatile setup.

If you stick with the quart fuji cup, and plan on spraying waterborne finishes, I'd get the teflon coated cup.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Wow, thanks for all the good info. I can't wait to start spraying!


----------

