# Work Sharp or Water Stones



## mak (Oct 15, 2012)

Since sharpening seems to be a Coke versus Pepsi kind of personal preference, I am just asking for opinions. I have a budget that would allow me to purchase either a Work Sharp 3000 or the starter set of Norton water stones (220/1000 combo and 4000/8000 combo) and a course diamond plate to flatten them since I've read a lot about how the Norton flattening stone is rarely flat itself.

My goal is to have sharp tools in the most convenient manner possible and in the shortest time possible. I do have a 2 1/4 inch Veritas plane iron so I wouldn't be able to sharpen exclusively on the sharpening port of the Work Sharp. If it weren't for that limitation, I think I would have already pulled the trigger on the Work Sharp. Using the port to achieve a consistent bevel angle without the time needed to setup a honing guide is a big plus for me. But, if I have to buy the wide blade attachment (or build a table and buy a honing guide anyway) then maybe I should just buy a Veritas MKII guide and use it on the water stones. It seems like the setup time of getting an iron situated on a honing guide would be a hassle and further encourage me to put off sharpening.

So, if you were starting over and had a budget similar to mine, which would you choose?


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Personally, I would go for the waterstones. But I will preface that with the fact that I've been using diamond stones and finishing on a waterstone for almost a year now. I sharpen free hand, but the MKII is a very good honing guide.

As for the setup time of a honing guide, you could always make something like this once you have it set to the right angle, if you don't want to buy the "registration jig" for the MKII
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4404253977_658c54b1de_b.jpg


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## RodNGun (Feb 4, 2012)

I recently bought a Work Sharp and it sure takes the art and magic out of sharpening (which I always admired). However, the thing is so easy to use, doesn't make a mess, sharpens fast, and does a great job. Unless you enjoy the production that goes into fine honing with stones, get a Work Sharp. I have chisels you could shave with.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

I have both a Worksharp and waterstones. If I had to choose only one, I would probably opt for the Worksharp. Its fast, consistent and less messy. There are issues however. For one thing, the discs don't last very long and get expensive after a while. Second, if you're going to use the WS for flattening/polishing the backs, you need to be REAL careful. I'd suggest getting a foot pedal for it so you can use both hands to make sure the blade is flat on the disc when you start it. I rehab/sell quite a few planes and the WS saves me a LOT of time flattening, but I use the stones to hone most of the plane irons. Good luck!!


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 18, 2013)

I'd rather use my tools than sharpen them. That's why I bought a Worksharp. It's always set up ready to go, so I use it more frequently than if I had to clear space and pull out stones and then put them away. Having said that, I know that some people take great pleasure in the task and customizing the technique and the result. Those people would not enjoy the Worksharp shortcut.


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

I find that the best sharpening system is the one you will use. I have a really good set of stones and a good sharpening grinder. a few years back i got a work shop as a gift and it gets used constantly. it takes seconds to freshen up a blade and I mean seconds. after getting it i added the wide blade attachment and have never looked back.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

"My goal is to have sharp tools in the most convenient manner possible and in the shortest time possible."

*IMO*, waterstones are not particularly convenient. They do a beautiful job of sharpening and cut very quickly. But the water element and flattening make it a PITA. I adopted diamond stones and a leather strop because I feel it works 95% as well as waterstones, with less hassles. 
However, given the choice between waterstones and worksharp. I'd probably go with the WS. Seems like the easier of the two options. I too like the sharpening process to be quick n' easy.

Sidenote: I wouldn't let one single tool dictate which sharpening system you adopt or discard. I assume you don't have to sharpen that 2 1/4" blade on a daily basis. You could always do the bulk of your sharpening on the WS, and use a cheap/simple scary sharp set-up for that particular blade.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

I actually made a blog about this subject that might help, here. Most all of the methods can be efficient with experience. Hopefully your able to narrow down one for you….because it's gets expensive switching. Take care, Red


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## JohnChung (Sep 20, 2012)

I would go for waterstones. Water can be inconvenient but with Shapton is it more a splash stone. I have
quite a few stones from Shapton but it is worth it. With work sharp the cost of sandpaper would add
up quickly. I started with sandpaper first but moved on to waterstone b'cos changing them took too much time
and did not last long.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I love my Work Sharp!


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

Regarding the 2 1/4" iron, it's worth noting that Stumpy's Worksharp 3000 station (which looks very easy to make) can handle wide blades, so you're not limited to the underside port. And the cost of sandpaper is negated by using buffing compound on MDF, which is dramatically cheaper than buying the replacement sandpaper from Worksharp, and works just as well.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I use water stones. I flatten them with a drywall screen - 
no special stone needed.

I use a nagura stone. I consider it essential.

I sharpen freehand usually. The technique takes awhile
to learn.

Obviously with water stones you don't have to keep
all that sandpaper in stock.

On method that works pretty well is a white, friable 
wheel on a grinder with a buffing wheel charged with
rouge on the other side. In between you can use a 
1000 grit water stone. Usually I use this method for
carving tools but it works fine for chisels and plane
irons too.

A 1000 grit water stone will get a blade sharp enough to
shave hair off your arm. While it cuts well, I feel
the edge is more durable if it is buffed or honed. I 
usually go from the 1000 grit stone to an 8000
stone, but actually the King 6000 grit stone is easier
to use and does not glaze as easily as the Norton 
8000 stone. The Norton is bigger though so that's
why I usually use that one.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Work Sharp for irons,iron backs & chisels. Water stones for honing,1000 & 8000. Wide irons, sand paper 100-220,320,400,600 for main bevel and stones for honing. The quick flattening of backs of irons on the Work Sharp is a great time saver.


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