# Curved Doors; Raised panel & Six light glass



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Finished product*

Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!

We've been building another kitchen in the shop, its just about complete. Lucky for you that are interested it has curved doors, two different kind of curved doors. A pair of rasied panel doors and one single six light glass door. I've taken lots of pictures while I was making the doors so I hope by the time I'm done with this series of blogs you will all be experts at making curved doors of any kind.

I'm posting pictures of the finished product first, so you can see where we're headed. Then I will go through every step and set up from start to finish. I will cover all the jigs that were needed to complete each step. And hopefully make the process easy enough that all of will want to try your hand at curved doors of some kind in the near furture.

I'm still working sevens days a week right now,,,,,,so! It might take me a while to get through all this, but I'll do the best I can.



<a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/lhastings59/?action=view&current=curveddoorshanging005.jpg" target="_blank">

I might add one other thing. I lost my old computer a few weeks ago,,,,it died. I'm still figuring out this new one and I seem to be having problems sizing pictures correctly, but I'll try and get that figured out soon too.

Thanks for having a look


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Wow-- I'm really looking forward to following this blog.

Thanks in advance for the work I know you'll be putting into this.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Hi Les;

Looks real good.

You're doing a great job there.

Lee


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


I am looking forward to this blog..I just have to make sure that Jenn does not see it as the kitchen reno monster has raised it's ugly head here recently


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


I've been waiting for this. I'm anxious to learn how you route the curved rails and raised panels. I've always wanted to make them but even if I don't (can't), at least it will satisfy my curiosity. I'm really looking forward to your future posts.


----------



## damianpenney (Jun 22, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


OH YEAH!


----------



## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Please keep on posting about the door…and other stuff too. Great post!!!


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Les, thanks for taking the time to post this blog - we appreciate your consideration. Looking very nice


----------



## damianpenney (Jun 22, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Come on Les we want part 2


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Amazing! Like everyone else, I'm anxious for more.


----------



## jtdyal (May 29, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


THAT IS AWESOME. I would love to try that.

How did cut the curved molding? Was the curved glass hard to source?


----------



## kolwdwrkr (Jul 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


This is very cool.


----------



## geneo1 (Aug 8, 2009)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


Man that's talent


----------



## Silvo (Nov 23, 2009)

LesHastings said:


> *Finished product*
> 
> Let me start off by saying I've been absent a while from Lumberjocks, been really busy the last couple of months. Working seven days a week again, yeap its no fun!
> I've had a number of Lumberjocks ask me to do a blog on curved doors,,,,,,,,,Well here it is!
> ...


This is by far my favorite blog, really learned a lot too. Love the work.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Getting started*

I'll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20" and an inside radius of 19". The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1" thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4" and the inside 11 1/4".

Lets start with making the jigs to mill the radius styles for each set of doors. The starting lumber size for the styles will be 1 1/4" thick x 3 1/2" wide. I always make them at least 4" longer than what the finished length will be. The starting thickness and width is also over sized. The doors I'm making are out of poplar.

Lets start with what I will call the sled. It consists of one piece 3/4 mdf or fibercore sheet stock. It is 3 1/2" wide and about 36" to 48" in length. It has two side rails from hardwood about a foot shorter than the mdf base. They are 3/4" thick x 2"wide. They are attached to the mdf sides to creat a sled for the styles to slide through. The drawings below has a small sketch in the corner of the sled. The main drawings are of the the inside and outside radius jigs that I will call the cradles.

If you double click in the drawing you can see the whole thing.




The cradle radius is either 3/4" or 1" smaller or larger than the finished radius of the door its self. I usually make mine 1" different. I use a 1/2" solid carbide down spiral bit that is 4" long to mill my parts. I make a wood base for the router about 5 1/2" square with it will need side rails attached to both sides that are about 1"wide. The cradle rails will go inside of the outer rails. This will keep the router on track if you wiil on the cradles while milling.

The inside radius needs to be milled first. They need to be routed right to the edge of the 3 1/2" width of your materail or you can leave a small 1/8" flat on each side. Just make sure you leave the materail thickness at 1 1/4" thick overall. This will give an edge to ride on when routing the outside radius and the cradles can still help hold the materail down. 




The picture below is to show how I use the drawing to check my parts when milling. But its actually a pic of one of the rasied panel sections. The panels sections and the styles and rails are milled the same way.


After I mill the inside radius I go ahead and sand and clean it up before I mill the outside. I usually mill the them a 1/32" thick to allow for sanding and clean up to a final thickness of 1". Please note that the panel parts are not sanded until after the panel is glued up, more on that later.

Here's a pile of milled radius parts.



Well I'm sure I've left some things out that you need to know so I will check this over when I'm not quite so tired. Then I'll add it in later. If you have any questions please ask I'll do my best to answer them. Sorry it took so long to get to part two. I took an evening off to finally get this started.

Thanks for looking, see you next time.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> I'll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20" and an inside radius of 19". The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1" thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4" and the inside 11 1/4".
> 
> ...


Very informative. Thank you for sharing.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> I'll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20" and an inside radius of 19". The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1" thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4" and the inside 11 1/4".
> 
> ...


That is slick. Thanks for showing this - it takes a lot of time and effort to explain something this intricate in such detail. Looking forward to the next installment.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> I'll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20" and an inside radius of 19". The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1" thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4" and the inside 11 1/4".
> 
> ...


Les,

You are brilliant! This is SO helpful, but I'm rather slow at catching on sometimes. You said, "The panel sections and the stiles and rails are milled the same way." I understand the panel and stile milling, but I don't quite get how the rail is "milled the same way." Can you explain how you do a horizontal piece with this sled?

Thanks for being willing to share so much expertise with a comparative novice.


----------



## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> I'll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20" and an inside radius of 19". The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1" thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4" and the inside 11 1/4".
> 
> ...


Les, Nice job… I'll look forward to see more.

It looks similer to my jig… Take a look CLICK HERE

Tom


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Getting started*
> 
> I'll be covering the construction of two different kinds of curved doors. A pair of raised panel doors with one inch thick styles and rails and a 3/4 thick panel. With an outside radius of 20" and an inside radius of 19". The second is a single six divided light glass door. Its style and rails are also 1" thick, its outside radius is 12 1/4" and the inside 11 1/4".
> 
> ...


Nice job.always a pleasure of making a turn on your .de page beautiful thing are made there .et gives me ideas thereafter.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Rails*

First off here's a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base's. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing.


Ok, lets get started on the rails for the doors and the the face frame for the cabinet case. I just make a 1/2" thick template out of some mdf or scrap maple fc. I take my time and try to get my template about a 1/32" over sized. In this case my doors are 1" thick so the template for the rails is 1 1/32" wide. I use the same template for the cabinet rails that I use for the doors, so that all parts are the same.

Here is the cabinet case with the rails and the rail template.


Here's the door rails and the case rails, from the same template.


The rails for the doors in this case are 2 1/2" wide if I remember right. I didn't have thick enough poplar for the rails so I just used two pieces of 8/4 and glued them together to make up the rails. These doors paint so I wasn't two concerned about the glue line.

Here's the door rails being glued up.


After all are glued then comes the sanding. Remember they are at least 1/32" to thick right now to allow for getting them sanded and cleaned up. This done all by hand. I make sanding blocks out of lumber for both the inside and the outside. Stick them in a vise and go at it. I use sticky back sand paper and just stick to the sanding pads. 80 grit then 120 grit. Final sanding to 180 grit is done after the doors are completely assembled.

Next up,,,,,,,, getting the panels glued up.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Rails*
> 
> First off here's a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base's. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing.
> 
> ...


Your project is really starting to take form. I am anxious to follow the progress. Thanks for the update.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Rails*
> 
> First off here's a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base's. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing.
> 
> ...


Les,

This is a great series. Thanks again for all your time putting this together. I'm a little slow at catching on though, so I have a couple of questions.

1. When you make your template for the rails, how do you get your 1-1/32" thickness perfectly uniform? I'm currently making a curve for an arched window covering. I cut the outside curve on the bandsaw and then made a jig to sand that edge uniformly curved. For the inside, I was thinking about making a router base (hand-held, not in a table since my table is heavy cast metal) with a peg or something attached in it that is the exact width that I want my final arch to be. My eyesight isn't good enough to get the inside perfectly accurate just from sanding on the spindle sander. Is there a better way?

2. Do you just use a pattern bit to follow the template for the 8/4 rails?

Thanks again for sharing your expertise so freely.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Rails*
> 
> First off here's a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base's. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing.
> 
> ...


lightweightladyleftie, I use a router with a radius template. I cut my templates out of a sheet using the same center point each time. Routing only a 1/4" deep or so, so the template stays attached to the sheet at all times. Then I band saw it out and use flush trim bit to finish cleaning it up. And yes I do use a pattern bit to flush trim the 8/4 to the template.

You can purchase a radius jig for a router for around thirty dollars or so. Or you can do what I do and use a piece 1/2" material and make a radius template to fit your router, about 5" wide or so and what ever length you need it to be. I make them that up to sixteen feet somtimes.

I hope this answers your questions, if it doesn't let me know and I'll post some pictures of the process the first chance I get.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Rails*
> 
> First off here's a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base's. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing.
> 
> ...


Les,

Thanks so much for the clarification. That makes perfect sense to me. Why couldn't I think of that? [Because I'm not as smart as you, that's why ! :>) ]

I tried my router base idea with a ball-bearing guide attached to the base, but it wasn't successful. It's just too hard to keep the handles in the exact location while going around a curve. I then went to the bandsaw and made a curved pivot point to guide it. It worked reasonably well. After that I was able to hand sand the blade marks. But your idea is SO much better. Not routing through it is a brilliant solution. Thanks for the help. I'm too cheap to buy jigs so I'll probably make it, (I have more time than money, but don't have much of either! :<( ). I've made the radius jigs for the bandsaw and stationary sander.

I'm looking forward to your next installment. Thanks again!


----------



## damianpenney (Jun 22, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Rails*
> 
> First off here's a better picture of the radius jig for the styles and panel parts. It shows how I set it up with both the inside and the outside cradles attached to the tray and the router base's. And if you look close you can see the 1/2 inch foam pad that I use to sand the styles with. Just a reminder you can click on the picture to see the whole thing.
> 
> ...


It's all beginning to make sense  Great stuff Les, thanks for the updates.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Finishing up the styles*

The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good starting point. Then I make a tray that the style can ride on laying flat shown in the pictures below.




I take two styles and trim them to angle I have just laid out. (at this point the styles are still about an inch to wide) Then I take them and stand them up on my drawing together and see if they follow the radius of the door perfectly. When I'm happy with angle I go ahead and cut all the styles to that angle on one side only.

Now its time to run the profile and rabbit for the panels on the styles. I apologize I seem to have forgot to take pictures of the process so I'll explain as best as I can. To run the profile the angled side I just cut needs to run flat on the table when routing or shaping. I usually just put it up against the fence with the edge flat on the table and run it through, but finger boards might be a good idea here. (remember I've done this a few times). After that I do pretty much the same thing on a router table to run the 1/4" rabbit for the panel. Setting up a fence and just running it through. Sorry I forgot the pictures on this part.

After the the shaping and rabbiting is done its time to cut the jack miters. Cut all the styles to length, I cut mine tight to the opening the door is going in. The miter is cut using a tray on the table saw. A thin strip of wood is cut to hold the style out away from the fence so the angle on the edge of the style is flat to the tray. I probley do a no, no here, but its the way I do it. I set up both sides of the tray to cut the miters or you need two table saws that tilt different directions. Here's some pictures of that process.






After the they have been mitered we need to remove the waste. New trays are made to hold the styles at the cut angle, this is a slighty different than the original angle that was cut on the edge of the style. Remember your moving around a circle. The trays are to cut the waste away using the bandsaw pictured below. Remember I'm making two different kinds of doors with two different radius, thats why I have two different trays pictured here. I'll get back to the glass door later on but the process is the same for both doors right now. However the jigs are slightly different because the radius is different.




I cut them slightly strong and trim the rest on the router table using the same tray. Seen below.


There will be a small are left that needs to removed by hand



Presto! The styles are finished


Nothing to it,,,,,,,,,,,,next time finishing up the rails.
Thanks for you time!


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the styles*
> 
> The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good starting point. Then I make a tray that the style can ride on laying flat shown in the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Les - keep it coming - really enjoyable to follow along. Thanks for the post.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the styles*
> 
> The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good starting point. Then I make a tray that the style can ride on laying flat shown in the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Wow, Les, this requires absolute perfection. You are truly a master craftsman! Would it not be possible to set up a jig to route the corresponding end on the rail, or is the angle just too complicated? Before I afforded a rail/stile router bit set, I used this method to make a frame for a lighting fixture. It turned out okay but I was concerned about strength. I'm looking forward to see how you join the rail to the stile-just glue, or biscuit, or ?

And . . . thanks for your time! You are certainly generous to share such expertise with all of us.


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the styles*
> 
> The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good starting point. Then I make a tray that the style can ride on laying flat shown in the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Nice, thanks for sharing with us.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the styles*
> 
> The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good starting point. Then I make a tray that the style can ride on laying flat shown in the pictures below.
> 
> ...


grat job.thanks for the post


----------



## YazFan (May 22, 2012)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the styles*
> 
> The styles have been cleaned up and sanded to 120 grit. Now its time to cut the inside edge of the styles to the correct angle. I use a full size computer drawing to do this but you could draw out the door full size on a sheet of plywood to do the same thing. I never really concern myself with what the angle is. I usaully just take my style and stand it on end on the drawing and mark the front and back where the style needs to cut and connect the dots. That will be close enough for a good starting point. Then I make a tray that the style can ride on laying flat shown in the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Les- I understand all the parts of this blog but I'm still having trouble picturing how you calculate the bevel for the stiles and door staves. I'd sure be grateful if you could explain in a little more detail and maybe illustrate with a picture or two…
Yaz


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Finishing up the rails*

In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.


After the sanding is done its time to run the profile on the rails. I didn't get any pictures of this, sorry. I don't make any special jigs fot this. I just run them on the shaper free hand against the fence keeping the radius centered on the spindle. Our shaper has bars on the fence that swing around and lock into the other fence over the the cutter head, making a full fence across the spindle. If you don't have that on your shaper clamp a wood fence across the two and make the center of the spindle on the wood fence and it will work the same way. If you are a novice I wood not suggest you do it this way, you should make radius fences to help hold the work in place, this will make it more stable.
After the profile has been run its time to run the 1/4 slot for the panels. I do this on the router table with a 1/4 straight cutter. I make a fence to match the inside radius of the rails and set it up to match the styles. Pictured below.





This next picture is showing how I ran the rabbit on the rails for the glass doors, its done much the same way as the paneled rails are done.


Ok, lets get them cut to length. I make a cradle to hold the rails at the right angle and clamp it in the tray on the table saw. I cut one side of all my rails first, making sure the angle is just right. I take either two rails or a rail and a style hold them together on a full size drawing and make sure the maintain the radius. Next I determine the length of the rail and place a stop block on the cradle and cut the other side of all the rails.


When all the rails have been cut I take the same cradle I just used and take two pieces and make a 90 degree piece about ten inches long ro so and cut a 45 on one end and add it to the back of the cradle to hold it at a 45 degree angle in the table saw tray. The only bad part here is you need two cradles exactly a like. One right and one Left to cut the jack miters on both ends of the rails. 


If anyone would like more or better pictures of any of the jigs used here, just let me know and I'll get some taken of them for you. And if you have any questions please ask. I know I haven't been really very thorough here on some things. But I'll do my best to answer any questions that you have. I'd much rather be showing you in person if that were possible.

Remember you can click on the pictures to see them in full view.

Next up! getting the panels together.


----------



## damianpenney (Jun 22, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


I don't know how much you charge but you're worth every cent  Great blog Les.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


Very nice blog. Great craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing more.


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


Very nice, thanks for sharing, can;t wait to see more


----------



## Critterman (Dec 20, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


Hey Les! Got a chance to run through this series and it is absolutely fascinating. It's like a great book…can't wait for the next one to come out :>) I think I've actually understood everything so far (which, but the way, means your doing a great job explaining things) the only question is: I know your work gets top dollar, and is worth every penny, but it must cost you a great deal just for the jigs. Care to venture a cost to how much you have invested in them? And, I assume you can always reuse them for other projects later? Just curious. Thanks a bunch for doing this, can't wait for the next one.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


Les, another fascinating blog. What I like about the series is that it shows what it takes to do exceptional extraordinary work but that doing so is possible with care and attention. I would like to see a photo of your shaper fence. Thanks again for takingthe time to do this series.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Finishing up the rails*
> 
> In part three of this blog I milled out the pieces for the rails and got them glued up to width. Now after they have had plenty time in the clamps we'll get started cleaning them up. get the glue all scrapped off and ready to sand. I make sanding blocks to the correct radius for the inside and outside of the rails and use 80 grit sticky back snad paper and stick it to the blocks. Below is picture of some finished rails with the sanding blocks that were used to clean them up. I use 80 grit first and then 120 grit and final sand after the doors have been assembled.
> 
> ...


Critterman, Most of the jigs don't take very long to make really. I do keep them around in hopes of using them again, but so that hasn't happened to often. I figure time in every job like this to make the jigs needed to do the job. At then end of this blog I'll post a picture of all of the together that were made for this job. As far as cost goes $500.00 to $1500.00 it just depends on the extent of the project. This job were at the high end of that margin and maybe plus a little bit. I can tell you I figured 1150 hours total for this job and we ended up with about 1125 hours in it. So this time we came out on top by a little bit.

Stanley, I'll get you a picture of that shaper first chance I get.

Thanks to all for your comments!


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Panel glue ups*

The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.


After the angle is cut on both both sides the parts are biscuted a to help in the gluing process. Make sure you keep them back far enough so they do not come out in the profile of the panel.




Then I use a piece of 1" mdf as a clamping pad for the panel. It is cut an 1/8 smaller in width than the width of the panel is when it is fit together. Making the clamp pad narrower than the panel will help in keeping the panel the right radius. It will crush the sides of the panel, but that's ok. The panel is oversized at this point. Clamping blocks are cut to the outside radius of the panel and full width of the panel. Assemble the panel and clamp it to the 1" piece of mdf along its width. Then take the clamp blocks and clamp them over the top of the panel to the 1" thick mdf under the panel. The pictures below will explain better than I can.




Ok,,,,,,,,,More sanding blocks are made for the inside and the outside and the sanding begins. If you have taken your time and fit things well there sanding shouldn't be to bad.


Well lets see how we did. Below is a picture of a larger panel that was for the Island, but it was made the same way as our door panels were. The computer drawing is full size, the second line on that drawing is the outside radius of our panel.


TA DA!!! Here's how it came out.


Running the profile on the panels is next,,,,don't miss it!

Thanks for hanging with me. We're getting close to a dry fit.


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Very nice Les


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Keep it coming Les - getting to be part of my regular diet


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Truly amazing craftsmanship. I can't wait to see more. Thanks for sharing Les.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks Les. Can't wait to see how you do the profile. And thanks for the e-mail on my last question. I really appreciate the information you are giving us.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Les, I was just going back and reviewing your blog on the rails and I missed something. I can't figure out how you actually ran the profile on the rails. Will a curved jig on the router table work to make the profile?


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Jerry, You can run the profile on the rails on a router table. Just make fence with the outside radius of the rails and make it tall enough so its taller than the profile is by at least an inch or so. I just use a flat fence and free hand the profile on mine. Since it is curved you can never cut in to far. If the profile is to large to run free hand safely then I would make a fence as well. Hope this helps!

Thanks Guy's


----------



## kjwoodworking (Oct 4, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post. I just checked out your other projects and you do amazing work. Truly a master craftsman.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


THANKS FOR THE POST.VERY NICE JOB


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Excellent post. Love the bessey clamps. You could never have to many clamps.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Great posting Les


----------



## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Awesome, I appreciate the details you've got in the pictures, 'cause I'm going to want to try this sometime soon.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Panel glue ups*
> 
> The panels for these doors will be four boards wide. They were milled at the same time the styles were using the same radius jigs. the panels will end up 3/4 thick, the parts were milled a strong 1/32 over that thickness to allow for sanding. A tray was used once again to cut the angle on all the parts on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Thats great want to sell a dvd how you did it I'll be 1st? in line.

Jim


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*

The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.

First we need to make a tray that has the same radius as the outside of the panel. This will help in supporting the panel fully while running the ends of the panel. I use a piece of 3/4 mdf long enough to support at least half of the panels length. Radius pieces are made from 3/4 mdf and screwed to tey base. The base will then be clamped to the shaper table. Another piece of mdf or plywood, 1/2" thick in ths case is attached to the shaper fence creating a full fence smooth fence to run the panel against shown in the picture below.



The panel cutter is set to the level of the 3/4 tray base. The tray needs to centered on the cutter head. After everything is set up just right the panel should be able to slide freely through the tray. I some times use drawer lube on the ribs of the tray so it slides a little easier. Now the ends of the panel can be run. A word of caution here,,,,,,,Hold the panel securely! Maybe even take small pass's at a time rasing the cutter a little on each pass until you reach the last pass.







On these panels we need to run a cove on the inside of the panel edges. I do this on a router table. You'll need a fence that is cut to the inside radius this time of the panel to run the ends. I just used a piece of 1" mdf for the fence in this case. See below.



No magic on the side edges in this process. Just set up a straight fence and run the sides. Sorry didn't get any pictures of this set up. That's it for the panels except for more sanding. Now the they can be finish sanded and they are ready for the doors.

Doweling the the styles and rails.

I use an old Newton two head horizontal drill for doweling the styles and the rails. Once again a tray or block is needed that is cut to the same radius as the outside radius of the door. I use double stick tape to hold the block in palce on the bed of the doweler. The angle that is cut on the end of the styles and the rails needs to be held at 90 degrees to the table of the machine. Then its just drilling holes and your done.







You can drill the holes with a hand dowel jig an old Stanley will work here. It takes a little doing but it is possible.

Time to dry fit and check everything out and see how we did.



Next up,,,,,,,,,gluing the door together.

Thanks for hanging out with me. And I hope this makes you want to try this out sometime yourself.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Truly spectacular work Les. Thanks for the tutorial and update.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Great job!! It looks like your having fun.


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Very nice, thanks for sharing


----------



## Critterman (Dec 20, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Les, this is by far the best walk thru/lesson on how to do something like this I have ever seen, thanks sooooo much for sharing this with us. I've been absolutely fascinated by the entire process, and learning something new every step of the way. Thanks Again.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Thanks guy's,,,I've had fun doing it.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


very beautiful work. very well explain with very good photograph thank you for the division


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Thanks Les. I am getting close to this point in the cabinets I am doing now. Will post some pics of where we are on our project. Thanks again for this blog. It has been very helpful.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Good job Les , It looks like you have a great shop . Do you have photos of your shop posted any were.
Thanks Jim


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Les, Your tutorial has been incredibly informative. I've always wanted to make curved doors. I knew they wouldn't be easy, but now that I know what it takes, I can easily admit that they are WAY BEYOND my meager abilities. I don't expect to live much past 100, so I don't think I have enough time left to accomplish something this complicated. I've appreciated the vicarious experience. Keep up your blogs since I do learn from your expertise and can use it to improve my woodworking skills.


----------



## dewoodwork (Jul 27, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Shaping the raised panels/doweling the styles and rails*
> 
> The panels are now ready to run the profile so lets get started.
> 
> ...


Yes, I do want to try this out some time and your tutorial is just the type of woodworking information I crave.

I'm quite inspired by your work and will be watching for more from your shop in the future.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*

The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.




Once the doors have been glued up its time to do the final sanding. All the joints and moldings are sanded in and a final sand of 180 is done on the whole door. Then its final fit time to the cabinet and hinging and hanging.

Below is the doors hanging in the cabinet all finished and ready to head out the door.



Thanks once again for joining me through out this venture. Hope you have enjoyed it as much as I have!!

Next I'll be finishing up the curved door with six divided light glass panels. The glass for this door was hand made as well.

See you next time!


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Thanks Les. This has been very informative and I'm sure it will help me finish this project we are working on. I'll keep you posted on how it is going. I do have one question for you. I noticed thatyour doors are inset and you used hinges that are mortised into the door and face frame. Our doors are 1/2 overlay and we are using euro hinges on the cabinet. Anything I need to know about drilling these doors differently? And how did you go about trimming your door to size after you glued it up?


----------



## kolwdwrkr (Jul 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


The end result is great. A job well done


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Les,

These are absolutely spectacular. Reading and studying this series has been informative and exciting (second only to the excitement of reading God's Word). Although I will probably not live long enough or gain enough skill to tackle such a project, some lessons learned have already been applied to other projects.

Thank you for your willingness to so generously share your expertise.


----------



## Critterman (Dec 20, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Les, this has been a fantastic read, thanks so very much for the experience.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Very Professional!!! Great job. Thanks for blogs.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Gorgeous stuff Les. Thanks for the tutorial.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Cabinetmaster, we have a sliding table saw that I used to trim the doors. I clamped them to the fence with them propped up at the right angle and trimmed them off close and them finished fitting them just using the jointer. The euro hinges shouldn't be that big of deal really, just make sure you prop the door up so the style is laying on the table tight at the center of the hole…..ya follow what I mean?

Thanks all for comments and for hanging in for the ride.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Thanks Les. Yep, I follow what you mean…........LOL This has been a great blog and you did a great job and it has been very professional. Thanks again for a job well done.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Gluing up the doors/ Finished and hanging*
> 
> The final glue up of the doors is done the same way the panels were glued up. I use a I" thick piece of mdf for a base clamping block. It is about an 1/8 narrower than the door is at this point. The styles on the doors are still wide at this point , they will be trimmed to fit the cabinet after they are all cleaned up. You'll need two clamp blocks made from 3/4 mdf that match the outside radius of the doors. Then the glue up is done like the pictures below.
> 
> ...


Beautiful piece,


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

*Inside curved panels*

I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.

Like I said the process is really close to the same, its just the way location of the cutter that is different. I thought some of you might like to see the difference so here is a few pictures.









Here is the panels installed, its a ceiling in a bonnett over a vanity.



Thanks for having a look!


----------



## Tomcat1066 (Jan 3, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


Nice! I'd like to say more, but I just can't say anything else but "nice!"


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


I looked at your divided-light post first and wondered how you achieved the concave raised panels, so I was happy to see that you explained it. The idea of placing the curved panel between the table and the router bit scares me a little. We rigged up a horizontal table to use a vertical raised panel bit (pretty miserable compared to your Woodhaven-can you hear a little envy here?) but we've always run the wood over the bit, not under. Do you have any problem with kick-back? Or is it just my imagination that it could be pretty tricky?

By the way, that's going to be some lovely cabinetry!


----------



## Critterman (Dec 20, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


Hey Les,

The new router table looks like it makes that process a lot easier. Humm..I wonder if you could redue the table some how to do the outy's on there too? A narrow table with your curved supports maybe? Can you change the table size on it? Hey, your making me think about these things now with all these great blogs, what can I say…lol.


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


Jim your right I could do the outy's on here as well. I just bought this recently to make it eaiser to the iny's. It worked out really well, made it much eaiser to do.

Lightweight, I ran the panels in about four passes, didn't try and run them in one, so they went really easy.

Thanks guy's


----------



## darryl (Jul 22, 2006)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


very impressive work.
thanks for sharing!


----------



## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


I've always wondered how that was done. Great job. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


Those panels look great Les. I guess if you asked 10 woodworkers how they'd go about making these you'd get 10 different answers. I'd tend to make up some type mdf jigs for my shaper to stand these panels on edge and run them. That way i could grind the profile out of some 22 dollar Amana blanks, saving the cost of expensive router bits, and don't have another limited use machine taking up space.

My theory is just about anything you do with a router table is much easier done on a shaper. But thats just me.

Your approach obviously works good for you because this project looks great!


----------



## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


miles, Your right it could have been done on the shaper and i could have ground a knie to do it with. But I look at it this way: by the time I ground a knife and set up a shaper and made the jigs to do it with I could buy the router table and the bit (56.00) for less money than I spent on labor to do it on the shaper. And beside I'm a tool junky, this way I can do any job that comes along. Sometime I'll post the router table I built to do a job with. I can do more with a router than I can do with a shaper any day of the week.


----------



## fernandoindia (May 5, 2010)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


Thank Les. This blog is quite informative, and inspiring as well

Great job. Thanks again for posting


----------



## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

LesHastings said:


> *Inside curved panels*
> 
> I just got through doing a project that hand some curved raised panels, but instead of being outy's these were iny's. I go through the same process to make the panels the only difference is the way the profile on the edge is run. I purchased a horizontal router table from Woodhaven to help get these made and a vertical raised panel router bit that matched the all the flat panels on the project.
> 
> ...


I know this an old blog, but I just wanted say thanks for taking the time to create this concise guide to making curved doors and panels. This will be invaluable to me in an upcoming project.
Your finished job looks fantastic.


----------

