# Seeking safety items for table saw



## Nyle (Jun 27, 2020)

I have recently refurbished an old Craftsman table saw, model Craftsman table saw model # 113.298090. I am seeking some safety gear such as a blade guard/riving knife. I'm hoping to find something to work with this saw. I want to teach my daughters to use it but it will need the safety equipment first. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

First thing I would recommend is to read up and then buy (so forget the read up) a* MJ Splitter*. Go for the Pro (steel) version… just take note of your kerf and note that the thin kerf (splitter) is 2.3mm. The *MJ Splitter* should *"force"* you into a handy ZCI.

Next suggestion is to swat up on some handy push sticks/blocks and get a good array.
Also consider featherboards… bought or shop made… great for smaller stock control.

Then once you are familiar with the equipment, you can investigate riving knives if you so choose… as they are marginally (though many will say that's a big margin and I will concur). Cost and availability may be the final decider.

If the piggy bank allows, Jess-Em Stocj guides... costly but invaluable for sheet goods.

When you are extra familiar and confident in what you are doing, then consider teach your daughter.

Welcome to LJ and good luck.


----------



## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

While safety equipment is very important in the use of the table saw; personal safety techniques and practices are just as important. How you use a tool is a very big factor in working safely in your shop. Be sure that you understand how the saw works and how to operate it safely and which practices are not safe and are in fact, dangerous. LBD offered some great suggestions on outfitting your saw, now research safe operating practices , learn them, and practice them every time you turn on your table saw. The venerable Craftsman model #113.----- series was a great saw for it's time, but due to the age, some more modern accessories may not be available for them. I used one for 20+ years before graduating to a 3 hp cabinet saw. Just remember that in using ALL tools, especially powered ones, that safety is priority #1. Welcome to LJ and learn all you can and then introduce your daughter to a lifetime of woodworking. Glad to have some new, younger members of the craft to take over from all of us old geezers. Good Luck, Have Fun and WORK SAFELY!


----------



## Brawler (Nov 12, 2018)

The above suggestions are excellent, the only thing I could add if you hadn't done this already is research the causes of kickback and how to avoid it. YouTube has a few videos on the subject.


----------



## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

I agree with everything LBD said.

A splitter should be high on your priority list for safety. Kick-back is a serious safety concern. Retro-fitting or adapting a riving knife may be challenging if your saw did not originally come with one. A splitter that is incorporated into the throat plate is an option. For my contractor's saw, I fashioned a splitter and attached it to the mounting hole where the original blade guard and splitter were mounted.

Push sticks are a must. Don't get your hands and fingers near the spinning blade any more than necessary. A finger can be cut off in an instant. If you're ripping something narrow and it binds between the blade and the fence you may not be able to react quick enough to get your hand out of the way. I make my own and have a few different styles and thicknesses.

Get or make a feather board. I think a feather board may actually help improve the quality of the cut by stabilizing the stock against the fence or down on the table while making the cut. These are useful for the bandsaw and router table as well. I like the FeatherPro and Magswitch offerings.

I would also suggest buying a dial indicator and buying or making a jig to check that your saw blade is parallel to the miter slot and the fence. If your rip fence is angled even a little bit toward the blade, this can cause the stock being ripped to get pinched between the blade and fence. This can result in poor cut quality (burn marks and/or saw blade marks) or kick-back in severe cases. Adjusting the orientation of the saw blade can be tedious, but thankfully it is something you might only need to do once. I found a product called PALS that I was able to install on my saw. For me, it made the adjustment process easier and more precise. I think they make one for Crafstman saws, you might want to check that out.

Make sure your blade is sharp. Dull cutting tools can be dangerous.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LBD hit most of the points needed.main thing understand the saw and what causes injuries.it takes more that safety devices to stay safe.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

A lot of the above….

The single most important thing beyond all that's been mentioned is to make sure your wood is straight before you put it between a fence and blade. Wood with even a slight bow will wedge and try to kick back or lift off and shoot over and to the side of the blade sometimes carrying your hand with it. Straight wood will rarely do that.


----------



## Renegade1LI (Jan 21, 2020)

Remember the option is to remove the hazard, prevent the problem. I have found that a solid fence with feather boards will prevent kick back, plus acts as a secondary guard to keep your hands from touching the blade. The only thing better would be a stock feeder, which is a great upgrade.


----------



## Nyle (Jun 27, 2020)

Thanks everyone! I will make some featherboards and take some further precautions before I use the saw.


----------



## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I had that saw. It is a terrible, dangerous saw mainly because of the fence.

Forget the splitter, board guides, featherboards.

Unless you change the fence, please do not let your daughters near it!! PLEASE LISTEN TO ME!!

The fence is crap and will get someone hurt.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

I agree with Robert. Change the fence. The fences are why many refer to them as "Crapsman" saws …


----------

