# Art Deco TV Table



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Form Follows Folly*

Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?

Here is the initial chapter of the design and construction of a most challenging project. But why would anyone ever want or need to build such a thing? What follows is the documentation of a two year journey into pattern making, wood bending, form construction, curved veneering, trim inlay, creative joinery, jig design, and the ultimate victory of patience and stubbornness over a project that fought me every step of the way. But first the beginning.

The backstory on this piece can be summed up as follows; pizza driver, back injury, large chairs-small room, triangle space and the need for a TV table with storage. Got it? What to do? What to do? How would you solve this?

Well those are the "form" requirements, functionally it needed to be a certain height and have drawers for storage. So the folly begets form begets function and when combined with a desire to try to build something in the Deco style this is the result.
































































The next chapter will get in to construction the drawer fronts followed by the drawer construction with some real interesting sliding double dovetail joinery.


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Form Follows Folly*
> 
> Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?
> 
> ...


Beautiful design and nice execution.

Sometimes things are more than the sum of the parts…

Keep up the good work.

Be Careful!

Herb


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Form Follows Folly*
> 
> Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?
> 
> ...


Tim,

You should probably enter your table in some sort of woodworking/craftsmanship/veneering/bent lamination competition. It certainly is a worthy project! Thanks for sharing the details.

L/W


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## manumurf (Mar 4, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Form Follows Folly*
> 
> Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?
> 
> ...


Beautiful.

The drawers pull out the front? Can we get a picture with one of them open?


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Form Follows Folly*
> 
> Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?
> 
> ...


I really love your design and I'm a big fan of the art deco style, though I like other styles too. Back in the 60's I owned my own furniture store and I sold a lot of modern pieces, mostly in walnut and one of my biggest sellers was a wedge shaped table which fit nicely between two chairs like yours does. It makes the arrangement much more social and it also makes for better lighting for the chairs.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Form Follows Folly*
> 
> Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?
> 
> ...


"Pictures? You want pictures?"  Here's a link to the project page too.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Form Follows Folly*
> 
> Or perhaps the title should be, "Form Follows Tragedy"?
> 
> ...


Very cool and different. I like it a lot


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Modeling for Shape*

Once I had the basic concept sketched out I needed to see the thing in the actual space. The height of the table is important for ease of use, aesthetic proportions, and to provide enough clearance along the sides to reach the chair controls. The angle of the table is important to set the angle of the chairs so they fit in the room. Yes, I actually set the chairs and divined the angle. Also important was the arc of the front of the drawers.

So after making many real size 2D drawings I came up with a quick and dirty model. A model which served us as a table for the better part of two years!























































Next I'll make do some modeling for effect. Stay tuned.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Modeling for Shape*
> 
> Once I had the basic concept sketched out I needed to see the thing in the actual space. The height of the table is important for ease of use, aesthetic proportions, and to provide enough clearance along the sides to reach the chair controls. The angle of the table is important to set the angle of the chairs so they fit in the room. Yes, I actually set the chairs and divined the angle. Also important was the arc of the front of the drawers.
> 
> ...


I took a peek at the other chapters of this blog and I just wanted to say what a great blog it is. I see a lot of great photos and excellent descriptions of the work. I will have to start from here and read forward during next week. Curved work is always a challenge and I haven't done much of it, so I'm sure there are some valuable lessons here. Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your skills with us.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Modeling for Shape*
> 
> Once I had the basic concept sketched out I needed to see the thing in the actual space. The height of the table is important for ease of use, aesthetic proportions, and to provide enough clearance along the sides to reach the chair controls. The angle of the table is important to set the angle of the chairs so they fit in the room. Yes, I actually set the chairs and divined the angle. Also important was the arc of the front of the drawers.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Always nice to hear from a master. I'm trying to post ever couple days or so.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Modeling for Effect*

So the thing fits the space. It looks proportionally correct. And it seems to be doing the job. But there's a number of items that still need to be decided. The real key was the trade off between the angle of the sides, the width of the drawers, and the arc of the front in relation to each other. The smaller the diameter or arc of the front, in other words, the sharper the point, the narrower the drawers would be. And together with the angle of the sides those dimensions dictated the depth of the drawer as well. Then there's the biggest issue of all.

I had to figure out how to build the darn thing. How to connect the curved drawer fronts to the straight sides (something I'm very proud of and you won't want to miss), how to make the drawers operate smoothly, but fit snugly, and how to incorporate the drawer handles (yes it does have handles!) into the design, and lastly in what order would the various parts have to be assembled keeping in mind I'm using bleached holly and stained/tinted sapele!

So I built a more detailed model that I would end up using throughout the design-build process to test various configurations and workout needed techniques. It was at this point I made a crucial decision on whether to go with a bent lamination for the drawers or perhaps a pattern routing technique. I went with the latter, but I've come to the point where I think it would be easier and quicker to just do a large bent lamination for the case and drawers using bending plywood as a core substrate with veneer on the top and bottom, and then cut the drawer fronts away. Perhaps I'll try that one day, until then why not do it the hard way. Isn't that my usual method?









































































Well lots of clues and Easter eggs revealed here. Next time I promise to start cutting wood! Hope you are enjoying this.


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## michelletwo (Feb 22, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Modeling for Effect*
> 
> So the thing fits the space. It looks proportionally correct. And it seems to be doing the job. But there's a number of items that still need to be decided. The real key was the trade off between the angle of the sides, the width of the drawers, and the arc of the front in relation to each other. The smaller the diameter or arc of the front, in other words, the sharper the point, the narrower the drawers would be. And together with the angle of the sides those dimensions dictated the depth of the drawer as well. Then there's the biggest issue of all.
> 
> ...


THANKS for sharing this process with us..I bet many of us had no idea how this was accomplished, and had really liked the table when it was posted. I rarely follow blogs, but I will keep up with this one


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Modeling for Effect*
> 
> So the thing fits the space. It looks proportionally correct. And it seems to be doing the job. But there's a number of items that still need to be decided. The real key was the trade off between the angle of the sides, the width of the drawers, and the arc of the front in relation to each other. The smaller the diameter or arc of the front, in other words, the sharper the point, the narrower the drawers would be. And together with the angle of the sides those dimensions dictated the depth of the drawer as well. Then there's the biggest issue of all.
> 
> ...


Wow! What a process


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Put Your Best Front Forward*

FINALLY! Some real woodworking. Wood is like Bubba's shrimp. You can steam it, bend it, carve it, laminate it, or pattern cut it and glue it together. And that's the approach I took. Make a pattern, rough cut to size, rout to the pattern for matching parts, glue them together, and viola. You've got the makings of a curved drawer front.

Here's a few tips and lessons learned. Spend a lot of time up front perfecting the pattern. After rough cutting, sand the rough blank as close to the pattern as possible as the router bits (even the expensive new one's) like to catch on the wood and the less you have to take off, the smoother, accurate, and IMO, safer the pattern routing operation. You can use double sided tape, but it may not hold so you may need to use screws or figure out another attachment device. For tall parts you make a cut with the pattern affixed to the piece then remove it to complete the rest of the cut using the previous cut as a reference against the roller on the router bit. And one of the best tips, make the pattern longer than the part you are cutting so you can press the pattern against the bit's roller thus producing a smooth and safe lead in and roll out to the cut. Not shown in the clamping pictures are the alignments I used to keep the parts aligned during the glue up. It won't pay to route perfect parts just to have them misaligned after gluing them together.































































































































The last picture shows a promise of things to come. But we will need to do some veneering which means we need to make some forms for the press and figure out our process. And we still need to figure out how to construct the drawers and attach the sides. Although at this point I had a fairly good idea on how to do that.


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## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Put Your Best Front Forward*
> 
> FINALLY! Some real woodworking. Wood is like Bubba's shrimp. You can steam it, bend it, carve it, laminate it, or pattern cut it and glue it together. And that's the approach I took. Make a pattern, rough cut to size, rout to the pattern for matching parts, glue them together, and viola. You've got the makings of a curved drawer front.
> 
> ...


*and figure out our process.*

The story of my life.

Looks like a lot of work that should end up very satisfying…...............


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Put Your Best Front Forward*
> 
> FINALLY! Some real woodworking. Wood is like Bubba's shrimp. You can steam it, bend it, carve it, laminate it, or pattern cut it and glue it together. And that's the approach I took. Make a pattern, rough cut to size, rout to the pattern for matching parts, glue them together, and viola. You've got the makings of a curved drawer front.
> 
> ...


Tim,

And I thought those were bent laminations! I'm not a very good guess.

It is so good to see other solutions to design implementation. This is really an educational journey!

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Put Your Best Front Forward*
> 
> FINALLY! Some real woodworking. Wood is like Bubba's shrimp. You can steam it, bend it, carve it, laminate it, or pattern cut it and glue it together. And that's the approach I took. Make a pattern, rough cut to size, rout to the pattern for matching parts, glue them together, and viola. You've got the makings of a curved drawer front.
> 
> ...


Thanks all. Next time I think I will go with bent lamination's and do the whole thing, fronts and sides, at one time. We'll see.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*

I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.

I made the pommel/saddle the same was as the drawer fronts shown in the previous chapters. I made a pattern, rough cut the shapes, and trimmed them to the pattern on the router table. I glued them together making sure they were perfectly aligned and glued a layer of cork sheet with the packing tape on last. You may be wondering why I didn't use the vacuum press? Well I did, but I found using the screw press and side clamps worked best. Because of the steep angle of the sides the vacuum press didn't quite supply the pressure needed for a real tight bond. I cut clamping wedges to the appropriate angle which allowed for a clamp to provide the 90 degree pressure and it worked great.

So after the drawer fronts set I did some light hand sanding and cut them to width on the bandsaw which I had set up using one of David Marks videos as a guide. The result speaks for itself. So without further explanation, justification, or defense (I have none), I hereby present The Inside Story, Veneering the Inside Curve. Enjoy.


















































































Whew! Just four more drawers to go! So I'm guessing you may have questions? What is the pink blanket for? And the moving pad? And where did you get that real cool, innovative screw press? Well I've got answers. An electric blanket. An insulating pad to hold in the heat. I invented it. And it was a Daily Top 3 too!

Next time we'll veneer the outside curve, or the drawer fronts. Maybe call it The Outside Story?


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


I love veneer projects! I do the same thing, I use a heat blanket with a moving blanket on top to hold the heat in. It beats trying to raise the shop temperature in an attempt to warm the project.!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


I admire your ingenuity and your result is evidence that it works. 
Not a criticism, just a question, did you consider hammer veneering these parts?
It would have made the process much easier and quicker.
I do like what you are doing and will be watching for the finished project.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


Hello Todd, great to hear from you again. Re the electric blanket, I'm sure you use that often being way way up north.  And yes, you can see from the before and after readings on the thermometer just how effective it is. We all know how much glue loves heat, or warmth, whatever.

Hello Paul. I visited your website. Stunning work. Re hammer veneering, I didn't know what it is until you mentioned it and I just watched a couple of videos. I'm sure you could adapt it to the curved surfaces, but in watching the videos it looks like it works best on flat surfaces. Again, I don't really know as I've never done it. One of the problems with the curved surfaces, especially those curved as tight as these, is holding the veneer in place. I assume with the hammer veneering perhaps once you lay the veneer on the substrate it sticks enough to hold until you press it with the hammer?

I've been thinking that if I do another project like this I will try a bent lamination with finished veneer on the top and bottom of a substrate using bending plywood. I would build a large pommel form and probably a curved top pressing form. I would still use clamps on the sides for better direct pressure. I would then probably cut away the drawers using a track saw or table saw. Actually, I've been thinking about another jewelry armoire in this shape so it would be four to five feet tall or so. We'll see.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


I found some more pictures. Call them outtakes. But they show a better view of the bending form and the initial approach using the vacuum press. A little Rube Goldberg looking, and not as effective as the simpler screw press.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


Hi Tim, hammer veneering relies on the high initial tack of hot hide glue and then uses the hammer to squeeze the air out from under the veneer. The glue gels as it squeezes out and seals the edges creating the same situation as a vacuum bag except without the vacuum and without the bag. It will certainly work on curved surfaces with the thin commercial veneers that we use these days.
Here's a little video that I did on a hatch project a year or so back. Not a curved surface but it shows the technique.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/36014

If you like playing around with veneers, it is a very good one to have in your repertoire.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


Thanks again Paul. Yes, it sure looks like a great technique and skill to have. I'm looking forward to trying it out.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Veneering, The Inside Story - Make a Saddle (Pommel)*
> 
> I called it a saddle, but it is more like a pommel as in gymnastics' pommel horse. Whatever. In order to veneer the inside of the curved drawer fronts, and ensure adequate clamping pressure at all points, I had to make a perfectly matching curved form or block to press against. While I had never done this before, I relied on memory of several of David Marks' Woodworks TV shows and videos where he described the process and key elements. The goal is to make the block undersized enough to allow for a layer of 1/4" thick cork, which I was able to find wider sheets at a hobby store, and cover that with a layer of packing tape so the glue doesn't stick. And lastly, to use a glue that hardens upon curing. I think David mixes his own, but for this application I used the TightbondOne premixed and it worked great.
> 
> ...


One hell-of-a blog going on


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Drawers Are Everything!*

I'll save the outside (curved front veneering) story for later. For now I decided to cover the drawer construction itself. I can't remember the order I did things anyway. The top picture shows a fully assembled drawer and gives a good idea of where we want to end up and hints at some of the challenges along the way. On this project the drawers are everything. They dictate the angles, final measurements of the cabinet, the proportions of the top and bottom, and as you'll see later on, the "ribs" as I call them which also serve as the drawer handles.

I decided to break the drawer construction into three parts. This will serve as the overview and will also show trimming the fronts, and cutting the sides. In the next chapter I'll show the joinery of the sides to the fronts using some slick double sided half-blind sliding dovetails, along with another special jig for accurate and safe cuts. Whew, don't want to miss that. Finally I'll show how I cut and shaped the bottoms including the center, wide dovetail, drawer slides. You won't want to miss that either.  So on with the show.

I already showed how I used the bandsaw to trim the drawers to width, or height. I used several methods to cut them to the exact length. Remember, all these cuts have to be perfectly plumb and square, and the exact length, or the cabinet will not be square and ultimately level.

This picture shows a fully assembled drawer. The question is how to connect the sides to the front? Another is how to make the drawer track so it can be lined up with the sides of the cabinet, stop where it should so the fronts line up, and lastly, won't sag too badly or fall out when opened.










I mainly used the chop saw the trim the sides of the fronts, but I also used the table saw. No, I'm not trying to see if my saw will cut through brick. I found it was easier to weight the piece this way so it stayed in position until I could secure it with a clamp. I did the same on the table saw with a cross cut sled for the longer (bottom) drawer.



















Here you can see the results. Plumb, square, and ready to continue.



















I calculated the angle of the drawer sides that would allow them to be square and parallel. The back or end of the drawer fronts are flat for about three or four inches so this is fairly easy to figure. The big question is how to join them.

A standard shop made tenoning type jig made the trim work relatively easy. And safe!














































Results? Not bad.









Next chapter I'll show the connection between the sides and front.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Drawers Are Everything!*
> 
> I'll save the outside (curved front veneering) story for later. For now I decided to cover the drawer construction itself. I can't remember the order I did things anyway. The top picture shows a fully assembled drawer and gives a good idea of where we want to end up and hints at some of the challenges along the way. On this project the drawers are everything. They dictate the angles, final measurements of the cabinet, the proportions of the top and bottom, and as you'll see later on, the "ribs" as I call them which also serve as the drawer handles.
> 
> ...


Tim,

I like your "brick" solution! Very clever thinking on all the many challenges.

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Drawers Are Everything!*
> 
> I'll save the outside (curved front veneering) story for later. For now I decided to cover the drawer construction itself. I can't remember the order I did things anyway. The top picture shows a fully assembled drawer and gives a good idea of where we want to end up and hints at some of the challenges along the way. On this project the drawers are everything. They dictate the angles, final measurements of the cabinet, the proportions of the top and bottom, and as you'll see later on, the "ribs" as I call them which also serve as the drawer handles.
> 
> ...


Many thanks. You'll see the "brick solution" again in upcoming chapters. I found it to be the easiest way to hold the drawer fronts in position while I got a clamp on them to be worked.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Will You Join Me?*

This is one of the most interesting parts of this build. Joining the angled drawer sides to the curved drawer fronts. As always I like to start from the end so you know where I'm headed. The first picture is a bottom view of the sides connected to the fronts with a half blind sliding dovetail spline.



















So the question is how did I come up with this idea (not claiming originality here) and how do you get the two mortises to line up? My initial thought was to do an integral dovetail tenon, but I quickly realized it would be easier to do a loose tenon.



















I did a lot of testing on scrap pieces to get the right combination of tenons and mortises. And I used two routers, one for the drawer sides and a smaller one for the fronts. As the pictures show I got lucky with the height clearance when cutting the fronts. The angle was 'wide' enough to allow unobstructed room above the router to complete the cuts.



















You use the same router bit to shape the tenons as you do to cut the mortises.










And remember the bricks from previous chapters? Well I don't have a picture, but I set up the fronts by positioning them at the edge of the table and holding them in place with a brick while I tightened clamps around the piece and then clamped the clamp to the table. Worked great.



















For the drawer sides I built a jig angled so the flat part was level to the table. I don't have a picture of the router, but I registered the fence against the left side of the jig and cut the mortise. I squared up the ends of the mortise with a chisel.



















Notice how each spline and mortise stops about 1/2" from the top? I told you, half blind dovetails. This way they don't show through when looking down at the finished drawer. Something I discovered when I was playing around with the model. The splines slide up from the bottom and are then trimmed to the shape of the drawer to accommodate the cabinet shelf upon which the drawer sits.

Here's some shots of the glue up and the results from the bottom.





































You will have to take my word for just how strong a connection this is. Or, maybe try it out for yourself. Next chapter I'll show how I added the bottoms and finish the drawer assembly.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Will You Join Me?*
> 
> This is one of the most interesting parts of this build. Joining the angled drawer sides to the curved drawer fronts. As always I like to start from the end so you know where I'm headed. The first picture is a bottom view of the sides connected to the fronts with a half blind sliding dovetail spline.
> 
> ...


What a great project and post, Thx for sharing I love it.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

newTim said:


> *Will You Join Me?*
> 
> This is one of the most interesting parts of this build. Joining the angled drawer sides to the curved drawer fronts. As always I like to start from the end so you know where I'm headed. The first picture is a bottom view of the sides connected to the fronts with a half blind sliding dovetail spline.
> 
> ...


Top Job! I've never seen a bit of joinery like that before. Looking forward to the next entry.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Will You Join Me?*
> 
> This is one of the most interesting parts of this build. Joining the angled drawer sides to the curved drawer fronts. As always I like to start from the end so you know where I'm headed. The first picture is a bottom view of the sides connected to the fronts with a half blind sliding dovetail spline.
> 
> ...


Tim,

Your sliding dovetail is exactly what I had envisioned, but I had no idea how to do it accurately. Your method is ingenious!

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*The Hipster*

Didnt want anyone to think I've forgotten the blog. i took time off this week to get a new hip. i hope you enjoyed the series so far and I'll be back with a new chapter in a day or two. In the meantime you might want to check out me other blog series.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *The Hipster*
> 
> Didnt want anyone to think I've forgotten the blog. i took time off this week to get a new hip. i hope you enjoyed the series so far and I'll be back with a new chapter in a day or two. In the meantime you might want to check out me other blog series.


Does this make you the new newTim?


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

newTim said:


> *The Hipster*
> 
> Didnt want anyone to think I've forgotten the blog. i took time off this week to get a new hip. i hope you enjoyed the series so far and I'll be back with a new chapter in a day or two. In the meantime you might want to check out me other blog series.


Wowza, glad u r ok and get well soon.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

newTim said:


> *The Hipster*
> 
> Didnt want anyone to think I've forgotten the blog. i took time off this week to get a new hip. i hope you enjoyed the series so far and I'll be back with a new chapter in a day or two. In the meantime you might want to check out me other blog series.


I enjoy your blog with great pictures. You must be superman to get a new hip and be back in a day or two. Please do not rush it and follow doctors orders. I have had a hip replacement and it is possible to dislocate it. Trust me that you do not want to have that happen. I just twisted the wrong way a bit and OOPS. can not describe the pain levels. Take care


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *The Hipster*
> 
> Didnt want anyone to think I've forgotten the blog. i took time off this week to get a new hip. i hope you enjoyed the series so far and I'll be back with a new chapter in a day or two. In the meantime you might want to check out me other blog series.


Enjoy your new hip. Kat, my wifee, got a new left one back in July. She's getting along nicely now and the pain she was experiencing for many years is gone. Work/Play safe my friend. Keep makin dust.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Bottom's Up!*

I'm baaa-aaack! And aren't you all so impressed? Actually doing the at-home recovery of the hip you see, and thought I'd catch up on the blog. I've divided the remaining drawer construction and assembly into two chapters as I have prepped plenty of pics and there's something interesting (to me at least) in each. First we'll cut the channels to receive the bottoms and cut the bottoms to fit. This is a great exercise in pattern design, construction, and routing and there are several good courses and videos available. Along with videos I took a class in pattern routing from David Marks in Santa Rosa. But, as is typical in my way of doing things, I had already completed this part of the construction. Still it is a great learning process, IMO, to at least try a new skill on your own before taking a class. I find I get so much more out of the class because I now have some experience with an actual project and have already struggled with it. Well enough of this, let's get on with it.

This is a shot from Blog#7 to show where we're headed.








I'll leave some things to your imagination, but if you have any questions fire away. I started by cutting the grooves for the drawer bottoms in the sides.








I then partially assembled the drawer and used these grooves to set up the router table to cut the curved fronts.

















I also used the partially assembled drawers to make patterns for the bottoms. And used the same router table set up to make a lip or dado, whatever, for the drawer to slide into the box.








And here we have all the parts and pieces for a dry assembly. Don't want to glue it up at this point as we still need to cut a dovetail channel in each bottom, along with a drawer stop, to guide the drawer and hold it in place so it doesn't sag too much.






















































And V-I-O-L-A! Eezy peezy. Or that might be the drugs talking. Anyway, next time I'll show the bottom dovetail guide rail and we're off the the races. As always, thanks for watching and all the kind thoughts.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Bottom's Up!*
> 
> I'm baaa-aaack! And aren't you all so impressed? Actually doing the at-home recovery of the hip you see, and thought I'd catch up on the blog. I've divided the remaining drawer construction and assembly into two chapters as I have prepped plenty of pics and there's something interesting (to me at least) in each. First we'll cut the channels to receive the bottoms and cut the bottoms to fit. This is a great exercise in pattern design, construction, and routing and there are several good courses and videos available. Along with videos I took a class in pattern routing from David Marks in Santa Rosa. But, as is typical in my way of doing things, I had already completed this part of the construction. Still it is a great learning process, IMO, to at least try a new skill on your own before taking a class. I find I get so much more out of the class because I now have some experience with an actual project and have already struggled with it. Well enough of this, let's get on with it.
> 
> ...


Tim,

I hadn't previously realized the bottom double-depth drawer. Very well done.

L/W


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Bottom's Up!*
> 
> I'm baaa-aaack! And aren't you all so impressed? Actually doing the at-home recovery of the hip you see, and thought I'd catch up on the blog. I've divided the remaining drawer construction and assembly into two chapters as I have prepped plenty of pics and there's something interesting (to me at least) in each. First we'll cut the channels to receive the bottoms and cut the bottoms to fit. This is a great exercise in pattern design, construction, and routing and there are several good courses and videos available. Along with videos I took a class in pattern routing from David Marks in Santa Rosa. But, as is typical in my way of doing things, I had already completed this part of the construction. Still it is a great learning process, IMO, to at least try a new skill on your own before taking a class. I find I get so much more out of the class because I now have some experience with an actual project and have already struggled with it. Well enough of this, let's get on with it.
> 
> ...


One heck-of-a blog going on Tim. Very cool as the progress continues


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*The Bottom of the Bottom Line*

The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).

In order to do all this my solution was to use a single drawer slide, or track, that is beveled on both sides to keep the drawer body from lifting up when extended. And away we go…

I started by cutting a (dovetail) beveled channel the length of the center-line of each drawer bottom. I can't remember the degree angle of the bevel, but I think it was 8 degrees. Later I used the same router bit to form the slides.








At some point in the process I also used the same router bit and set up to make some custom sanding blocks. Smart, very smart.








After sanding smooth and making sure the slides are working perfectly, I cut one more beveled rail slightly wider for a tighter fit. I cut off equal lengths of this rail to glue in as a drawer stop. Note: It doesn't matter if the stops line up or are the same distance from the front or back edges. The depth will be set when I install the drawer slide on the shelf. I also set the angle to accommodate each drawer's peculiar dimensions to ensure a tight fit. I used hand tools to cut, trim, and shape the stop blocks to match the contours of the drawer bottom.









And here's the outcome. You'll have to trust me when I say with a little wax on each side, the opening/closing action is extremely smooth and precise.








In these last two pictures you can see there is a gap between the bottoms of the top three drawers and their drawer fronts extend beyond this gap. This is to accommodate and ultimately cover up the drawer shelves upon which each drawer sits. The shelves also serve to connect the case sides and back and keep the spacing of these square and parallel. And, since there is a very small gap between the drawer sides and the shelf above each, the resulting drawer pocket aids in the stability of the drawer when it is near fully opened.


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## Brodan (Nov 1, 2014)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


Beautiful! Your explanation is very clear. Great job. Thanks


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


Fantastic!


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


Tim,

The single sliding dovetail was a great solution. I used sliding dovetails on both sides of some drawers and have occasionally had a little problem with one of them because of seasonal and humidity changes in the bathroom where they're installed. I don't think that would have happened had I used a single sliding dovetail.

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


Thanks again all.

L/W I'm still a bit worried about that and suppose I'll find out real soon if they stick. You'd think the drawers would be hard to line up when resinserting them, but not so. Very easy. And hard as it is to believe, the drawers are slightly crooked. Just enough that if they were all inserted square and parallel to each other for the sides and backs, the fronts would be noticibly staggered. But by setting each one individually to compensate I can line up the front and hardly anyone will ever know, and nobody will care.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


You nailed it … I suppose that should be dovetailed it!
You got the Art Deco look that's for sure. That is a beautiful reincarnation!

When use dovetail slides I cover the runners with PTFE, Teflon tape available at Grainger , and they slide like ball bearing slides.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


WOW….Thas is pretty awesome. Great finish as well….


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


Old novice you sound more like an old Pro. I looked up the tape on Granger's site and it looks like an interesting alternative to wax. Thanks.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


Really something Tim. So very cool.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

newTim said:


> *The Bottom of the Bottom Line*
> 
> The drawers are everything in this project. They literally define the key dimensions, the angles, proportions, and the functionality of the table. In order for the table to look right the drawers also have to line up; not only with each other, but the edges of the fronts must exactly match the edges of the cabinets. In short, square, plumb, and level and all in relation to the other parts. So the question is how to design a drawer pocket or slides that are adjustable to allow for minor variations in fit and aid in the effort to keep them from sagging when open (given they are very long drawers and the lip of the table's top protrudes quite a bit from the sides of the cabinet).
> 
> ...


The table turned out beautifully. Looks like it would feel right at home in the Chrysler Building  It screams roaring twenties. Nice job!


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Put On A Happy Face: Another Round of Veneering*

More veneering. I actually have two veneer layers on the drawer fronts. This is not by design, rather by necessity. For various reasons the initial veneering was just not to the quality I wanted and there was some other visible damage. So the only option I could see was simply add another layer. But the question was how to do it?

Many many chapters ago I showed how I veneered the inside and outside of the curved fronts using a combination of vacuum bags and clamps over a bending form as seen in the picture below.










But this time around I picked up some books on wood bending, one of which written by Lon Schleining, Wood Bending Made Simple. In Chapter 7 he talks about compression straps and I thought this would be a good way to go, especially since I like to experiment with different designs and techniques. The following pictures show my process, yours, and Lon's may be different, and likely better.

Here's a shot with the front clamped the the edge of the table with the compression strap I built in the background. Notice the "U" shaped riser at the bottom which creates a tunnel for the clamp straps.








I first applied glue to both the drawer front and veneer and pressed the veneer in place before temporarily clamping the parts with spring clamps.

















I applied the strap clamp by running it around the handles on the compression strap and removed the spring clamps. But notice the pockets created between the compression clamp and the drawer front? And there's something you can't see; the twist in the strap between the front and back with also created pockets. What to do? What to do?

















Once again the answer, for me at least, was to use angled clamping cauls and apply screw clamps so I could get good pressure from front to back, and along the sides.








I used the heating and moving blankets again to give the glue a warm environment to set up and cure (see previous chapters).


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Put On A Happy Face: Another Round of Veneering*
> 
> More veneering. I actually have two veneer layers on the drawer fronts. This is not by design, rather by necessity. For various reasons the initial veneering was just not to the quality I wanted and there was some other visible damage. So the only option I could see was simply add another layer. But the question was how to do it?
> 
> ...


Tim,

This looks like a good solution to a difficult clamping situation. What kind of glue did you use?

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Put On A Happy Face: Another Round of Veneering*
> 
> More veneering. I actually have two veneer layers on the drawer fronts. This is not by design, rather by necessity. For various reasons the initial veneering was just not to the quality I wanted and there was some other visible damage. So the only option I could see was simply add another layer. But the question was how to do it?
> 
> ...


I used Unibond ONE.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Put On A Happy Face: Another Round of Veneering*
> 
> More veneering. I actually have two veneer layers on the drawer fronts. This is not by design, rather by necessity. For various reasons the initial veneering was just not to the quality I wanted and there was some other visible damage. So the only option I could see was simply add another layer. But the question was how to do it?
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tim, for the info on the adhesive.

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Need to Get Me Some Ribs*

Ribs. I call them ribs. Because to me that's what they look like. You could also call them drawer handles because that is their function. At least some of them. The others are just plain ribs. You see?

This is another exercise in pattern routing pure and simple. I used the same techniques and steps on these as I did on the drawer fronts and bending blocks. Make a (perfect) pattern, use it as a template to draw a few, rough cut them to shape on the bandsaw, then pattern rout them to exact matches.

First, a word of caution. I find this type of pattern routing to be among the most dangerous (risky) operations in the shop. The bits are large and spinning very fast and very close to your hand. They also want to grab the wood so you need a lot of control and to mind your feed direction and feed rate. But by incorporating a couple of safety items mentioned below, a handle and extra long pattern, the machining can be tamed and more enjoyable. Also for these operations I experimented with a number of different types of bits, not shown. Those too, can make a huge difference.

Here's about where we want to end up.








Make the pattern, sand the edges smooth, and make sure the inside fits snugly against the outside of the drawer front. I also added a handle across the top to keep my hand away, make turning the pieces much easier, and so I can more easily and safely control the piece as I feed it into and across the cutter. Also be sure to mark the tops and bottoms of all the parts and patterns so the machined part is aligned with the pattern. Especially important if you end up machining them upside down as I did.








Since these are very narrow pieces I chose to screw them to the pattern. The holes and up being on the bottom of the rib, thus out of view. Also notice how the pattern is LONGER on both ends that the finished (rough cut) piece. This is to allow you to press it against the bit's roller first without engaging the cutters. You also want to remove as little material as possible; again for safety reasons, reduce chatter, and ensure a smooth finished cut with no burn marks.








It is also critical to make sure you are feeding AGAINST the cutter's rotation. Otherwise the piece will be grabbed by the cutter and launched possible breaking the piece and your hand to boot!




































After cutting all the parts on the router table they should all be duplicates. For these I used the crosscut sled on the table saw to cut them to length.



















And what do you end up with for all your hard work? Well it better be a perfect fit (or the ribs won't stick)!










And here's a taste of where we're heading.


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

newTim said:


> *Need to Get Me Some Ribs*
> 
> Ribs. I call them ribs. Because to me that's what they look like. You could also call them drawer handles because that is their function. At least some of them. The others are just plain ribs. You see?
> 
> ...


Super thorough and humorous blog so far. Have enjoyed reding and following along and am impressed at the amount of work you are putting into it.
Looks like it will be a center of attention when finished!


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Need to Get Me Some Ribs*
> 
> Ribs. I call them ribs. Because to me that's what they look like. You could also call them drawer handles because that is their function. At least some of them. The others are just plain ribs. You see?
> 
> ...


Tim,

Those are good safety tips. I'm familiar with the fright of routing small curves from when I made my window arches. They probably took a couple years off my life expectancy from nerves! I've made handles to attach to small raised cathedral panels and it certainly does make a difference in one's confidence.

You amaze me with your absolute perfection with fitting the parts.

L/W


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Need to Get Me Some Ribs*
> 
> Ribs. I call them ribs. Because to me that's what they look like. You could also call them drawer handles because that is their function. At least some of them. The others are just plain ribs. You see?
> 
> ...


Great work and blog. Taking the time to share this journey is what lumberjacks is all about. I need to be more detailed in my blogs Although this is more complicated than my builds.

Thx forward the posts.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Help Your Shelf*

Sorry folks. Surgery, recovery, PT equals an unforgivable delay. One of the many critical items on this project are the shelves. They not only support the drawers, but also connect the cabinet parts and determine whether the sides are going to end up plumb, square, and parallel. So here's the short story on the shelves.

I used various items to ensure the drawers lined up relative to the sides. I used 1/16" angle aluminum that I got at the big box for spacing. I use these on regular drawers too. These pictures show the shelf supports which are attached to the sides at the appropriate height, and the shelves are then attached to these.


















When you determine the correct angle (dimensions) of the shelves all three can be cut at the same time. They all have to be the same in order to ensure the cabinet sides are plumb. I am blessed to have a couple of tools that made this job very easy and enjoyable.








The combination of patience, accurate drawings (cut lines), and the Festool allows for quick set ups and precise cuts so the parts all fit together.








The shelves are 1/2" plywood and were all cut together. The Festool jigsaw cuts perfectly square with a smooth finish.









Each drawer front extends below its own bottom by the 1/2" need to cover up the shelf. This is so well done a lot of people have asked me what is supporting the drawers. After the shelves are connected to the (3) sides I lined up each drawer in its own slot and marked their position (bottom, middle, top), and fit the drawer runner for each.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Help Your Shelf*
> 
> Sorry folks. Surgery, recovery, PT equals an unforgivable delay. One of the many critical items on this project are the shelves. They not only support the drawers, but also connect the cabinet parts and determine whether the sides are going to end up plumb, square, and parallel. So here's the short story on the shelves.
> 
> ...


Tim,

I'm envious of your quality tools! It certainly does help to have a tool that can maintain a perfect 90. But my $9.99 after rebate ToolShop tools are a close second . . . NOT!
L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*This Side Up*

The top and bottom are mirror images of each other and can be cut at the same time just like the shelves. You just need to mark each one (this side up) so they stay in alignment to make up for any imperfections in the shape. To begin I made a template so I could figure out the placement of the tenons used to line up the parts in the glue up. I set the bottom drawer on the template and clamped the front and side ribs to extend the line down the side. I used another rib to define the overhang. Pretty simple. The rest is fairly standard glue up to size and cut down with the plunge saw.









































































And this is where we want to end up!









Hey! How'd you do that? More next time…


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *This Side Up*
> 
> The top and bottom are mirror images of each other and can be cut at the same time just like the shelves. You just need to mark each one (this side up) so they stay in alignment to make up for any imperfections in the shape. To begin I made a template so I could figure out the placement of the tenons used to line up the parts in the glue up. I set the bottom drawer on the template and clamped the front and side ribs to extend the line down the side. I used another rib to define the overhang. Pretty simple. The rest is fairly standard glue up to size and cut down with the plunge saw.
> 
> ...


Really wonderful grain match on those pieces.

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Hidden Handles (Pulls)*

How do you open this darn thing? Well the handles are built in to the ribs. Or the ribs have built in handles. I guess it is just a leap of faith that if you reach for what looks like a handle or a pull there will be enough room underneath to fit your fingers.

As usual, let's start at the end. Or near the end. This is where we want to end up. Notice the bottom drawer is twice the height of each of the top three. Lots of storage in this thing.









I used the same router bit to cut a short groove on both the drawer front and the back (or inside) of the rib. I cut the drawers upside down and used small bar clamps to serve as handles for the ribs to maintain positive control and for safety.






















































I found out I really didn't have to cut as deep as I did into the drawer fronts and could have cut the grooves lower down the front to give the fingers more room, but is they are, the work real good. No complaints so far.

Next time we'll tackle the holly inlay.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Hidden Handles (Pulls)*
> 
> How do you open this darn thing? Well the handles are built in to the ribs. Or the ribs have built in handles. I guess it is just a leap of faith that if you reach for what looks like a handle or a pull there will be enough room underneath to fit your fingers.
> 
> ...


This is coming along very nicely Tim. 
Going to be a sweet piece of deco decor.


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

newTim said:


> *Hidden Handles (Pulls)*
> 
> How do you open this darn thing? Well the handles are built in to the ribs. Or the ribs have built in handles. I guess it is just a leap of faith that if you reach for what looks like a handle or a pull there will be enough room underneath to fit your fingers.
> 
> ...


Looking good. I appreciate that you put this much work into the project!


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*About That Inlay*

This is yet another item that I had no experience for and no idea how to execute. I did a lot of research, lots of Googling and YouTube-ing hoping to find a nice two-point router jig to cut the curves. Sure there was an incredible amount of videos and articles showing how to cut trim inlay grooves on straight edges, but I could find nothing for the stupid curve. So this is how I did it.

To create the two point guide for my trim router I threaded two small, but relatively long bolts into the holes that I found in the edge guide. A more optimal guide would have adjustable wheels, but like I said I couldn't find a good one and didn't have or want to take the time to design one. Well that's woodworking for ya. There was some friction and chatter when I cut the curve, but overall I was slow and careful and had a decent result for a first time effort.






















































So now all I had to do was cut and bend the holly inlay. Cutting to size is no problem, but bending? Well it took a bit of practice meaning lots of broken pieces, but I finally figured it out. I used a luthier's bending iron and wet the piece I was working. I also ended up using a metal bending or compression strap on the back side and that worked great. Basically I worked slowly and tried to over bend the piece before fitting it into the curve. Once I had a good part I fitted and clamped it into the curve to dry. At glue up I reheated the piece before adding glue and tapping in to place and clamping.

I used scarf joints, something I picked up from a David Marks video, to join the inlay strips so, hopefully, the joint line disappears.




























The inlay went in fairly easy. Finishing the top, however, would prove to be a real challenge.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

newTim said:


> *About That Inlay*
> 
> This is yet another item that I had no experience for and no idea how to execute. I did a lot of research, lots of Googling and YouTube-ing hoping to find a nice two-point router jig to cut the curves. Sure there was an incredible amount of videos and articles showing how to cut trim inlay grooves on straight edges, but I could find nothing for the stupid curve. So this is how I did it.
> 
> ...


Tim,

You're very resourceful! I don't happen to have a luthier's bending iron in my stash of tools and no longer in close contact with any luthiers so I'd need to come up with another solution. . . I've got it: I just won't attempt such a difficult project! LOL

How thick was your inlay?

L/W


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *About That Inlay*
> 
> This is yet another item that I had no experience for and no idea how to execute. I did a lot of research, lots of Googling and YouTube-ing hoping to find a nice two-point router jig to cut the curves. Sure there was an incredible amount of videos and articles showing how to cut trim inlay grooves on straight edges, but I could find nothing for the stupid curve. So this is how I did it.
> 
> ...


Thanks again. The inlay strip was 1/4" wide and about 1/4" deep. Good thing too because I ended up refinishing the top five times and had to sand it bare.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Straighten Out Those Ribbies*

Apologies for the time gap. I had to find my pictures. I was happy with the way the ribs turned out on this piece. Specifically how parallel each of them were and the fit of the miters. I used bending plywood to form a spacer for the curved drawer handles or ribs as I call them, and straight spacer boards ripped to the same width for the sides and backs. The front ribs were form fitted with a nice tight fit so are only glued while the sides and backs were supported with domino tenons. The back ribs also covered up the pocket hole screws that were used to connect the back to the sides.

Since the white case is holly veneer I finished the sapele ribs with the stain & tint mix coated with shellac and lacquer before fixing them in place.



















I used bending plywood as a spacer for the curved fronts and various clamping schemes to apply pressure including band clamps.




























I used straight spacers for the sides and back, and attached them with glue and the domino.



















The miters required some precise cutting and fitting, and you can see how some prior planning allowed for the rib placement to cover up the pocket holes.





































And then the project comes together.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Straighten Out Those Ribbies*
> 
> Apologies for the time gap. I had to find my pictures. I was happy with the way the ribs turned out on this piece. Specifically how parallel each of them were and the fit of the miters. I used bending plywood to form a spacer for the curved drawer handles or ribs as I call them, and straight spacer boards ripped to the same width for the sides and backs. The front ribs were form fitted with a nice tight fit so are only glued while the sides and backs were supported with domino tenons. The back ribs also covered up the pocket hole screws that were used to connect the back to the sides.
> 
> ...


Outstanding work. I love your attention to detail.
I await the reveal.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Straighten Out Those Ribbies*
> 
> Apologies for the time gap. I had to find my pictures. I was happy with the way the ribs turned out on this piece. Specifically how parallel each of them were and the fit of the miters. I used bending plywood to form a spacer for the curved drawer handles or ribs as I call them, and straight spacer boards ripped to the same width for the sides and backs. The front ribs were form fitted with a nice tight fit so are only glued while the sides and backs were supported with domino tenons. The back ribs also covered up the pocket hole screws that were used to connect the back to the sides.
> 
> ...


So awesome.


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