# Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)



## SPalm

*Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*

This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.

In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.









.
After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.









.
I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.









.
I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.









.
I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.









.
Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.

Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.









.
And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.









.
I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
Steve


----------



## Porosky

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Nice. Yes. Smart and Nice. Thanks for figuring this out. With friends like you there is no need for me to think at all. Favorite.


----------



## PurpLev

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


very very cool. this seems so much easier than my trial to plane those triangles down… UGH.


----------



## LoneTreeCreations

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Super nice, I wish I had the patients to do something like that. Also the tools.


----------



## blackcherry

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I'm in on this one Steve, very cool design the diagonal pic is off the chart…BC


----------



## FatherHooligan

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Now you've gone and done it, now I want to make a cutting board! A really great piece of work, thanks for the great explanation.


----------



## sras

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Fantastic design! Thanks for sharing your process with us!


----------



## cwdance1

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Very cool design, wish I had the patients for doing that kind of work.


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks guys. It's a pretty cool one. These boards just fascinate me.

*BC:* The diagonal view looks like a different board. That blows up my mind.

*Porosky:* I doubt you will stop thinking. You got skills.

*LTC, Mark and CWD:* You can do it. It is not That hard. The trouble is that people keep requesting them.


----------



## BarbS

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Great tutorial, Steve. The creativity sure flows around here! Very nice board. Thank you so much for sharing the method.


----------



## fernandoindia

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hi Steve,

Cool design. And impressively done. I can´t even see the triangles !!

Thank you for the blog


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks Barb.

Fernando, isn't that cool? I can barely find the triangles too. I am glad I drew it out before starting. It was really easy to get one of them in backward, so I had to triple check when glueing.


----------



## Blake

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Rad.

You do some cool stuff Steve.


----------



## Ken90712

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Awesome, you are one of our Masters on here no doubt! Amazing doesn't describe what your pulling off or thinking up! It says alot that not only do you share this with all of us, you go through such detail to help anyone who wants to make one.

Very unselfish of you THANK-YOU for sharing!


----------



## helluvawreck

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow! That's beautiful. I never paid much attention to this sort of thing before coming to LJ but this really looks like something that wood be fun to get into.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


there is times where I want to have powertools , oboy 
to make this with handtools is nearly impossiple or at least very time comsuming
I realy like the last picture 

Dennis


----------



## stefang

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Brilliant Steve! Also a fantastic tutorial.


----------



## lumberdustjohn

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Another beautiful board.
Thanks for sharing the toot with us.
This is a wonderful design.


----------



## LeeJ

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hi Steve,

Beautiful project, and great write up!

Lee


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks everyone. But I am no master. I am just having a lot of fun.

LJs Rocks,
Steve


----------



## LateNightOwl

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Great one, Steve. I love how your mind works! Love how you broke it down into triangles.
This is an inspiration. It is going to be a while, but I can't wait to get back to the shop.


----------



## wstokes

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow, this is awesome. I totally want to build one of these!


----------



## mgb_2x

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Nice work Steve, thanks for sharing, can't wait to see what's next. Have you ever thought of making 3 or 4 of these into a tabletop. Don't get me wrong cutting boards are great but a table with a top of this would scream.


----------



## rowdy

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Steve, please stop! You are continuing to make the rest of us look really bad with your creative designs and excellent craftsmanship. LOL!


----------



## blockhead

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Awesome job Steve. You make it look so easy, but we all know better. Looking forward to the finished product. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## degoose

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I know I asked Marty where to from here… you must have read that.. and here we are…
So where to now?


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks again everyone.

Larry, I don't know where we are going. Maybe revert to simple. Simple is nice. Or maybe boxes. But I am not in control of my brain anymore.

Steve


----------



## Dennisgrosen

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Larry
what about 3D rings interlocking with each other on a 2D board….....LOL


----------



## huff

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Steve, Awesome design! My head hurts just looking at it. LOL. Thanks for the great write up and sharing with us.


----------



## moshel

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Very very nice!!!!


----------



## gfixler

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow! This is fantastic. I love the previs stuff, the process, and the final result is remarkable, and dizzying!


----------



## aflixa

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Interesting approach and dissection. very nice!!!


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks guys.

Gary, you had me with *previs stuff*. So I went to Wikipedia:

Previsualization (also known as previz or previs) can be any technique that attempts to visualize scenes in a movie before filming begins. The term is applied to techniques such as storyboarding, either by hand drawn sketches or the use of digital technology in the planning and conceptualizing of movie scenes and sequences.

So I guess you mean the drawings on how I got here. This was kind of fun for me too when I looked back at all of the diddling that I did to come up with the triangles. Simple, but it was a journey non the less.

I learned a new word.
Steve


----------



## ElmoSr

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


all i can say is ditto


----------



## Diggerjacks

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Only a word :

Fantastic !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## BritBoxmaker

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Very clear and concise blog, Steve. Very familiar territory here but I think you explain it better than I. There must be a balance between length of sticks and number of them for min. work/error but I haven't found it yet.

Keep 'em coming I find your work inspiring.


----------



## ifch317

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I have a hard time gluing up 90 degree strips - I cannot begin to fathom how you glued this up. It looks fabulous.


----------



## TJ65

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks for posting this blog.
I have favorited it and have all good intentions of giving it a go (one day, sometime, maybe) .


----------



## cranesgonewild

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow!!!! Great tutorial. I never would have figured the triangles.


----------



## woodtimes

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Holy smokes Steve, this is one of the best projects I've ever seen.


----------



## DonH

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hi Steve - now that is workmanship - very impressed.


----------



## jm82435

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow, you did it again. It looks like on of those 3d posters you have to stare at for a while to see the image. In this case if you stare at it though, your eyes just pop out…
This is something else I need to try.


----------



## JonH

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Amazing visual effect. Thanks for showing the technique to build it! I'll be trying this for sure!


----------



## johnnymo

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Amazing! You did a great job!


----------



## McLeanVA

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Incredible work. I'm officially wowed. I love the two photos displaying different angles. Favorited for sure.


----------



## bvdon

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Brilliant and beautiful. I will definitely be taking a stab at this and already dread the glue-up.


----------



## fred4999

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Really good explanation and final product speaks for itself. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## WoodenSoldier

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Steve, I was thinking about making one of these in the next couple of weeks.

I still am not sure I understand why all blocks aren't the same size? Maybe you could explain that a little bit?


----------



## GaryK

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Great how to!


----------



## shulmey

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I know this blog entry is old, but it's such an incredible design that I started it yesterday. I was wondering if you had any secret tips for gluing the trapezoid sticks into the long triangles. I'm having a realllllyyyyy tough time getting them to stay tight while the glue dries without the use of clamps, and was hoping you had some awesome pointers before I mess up the rest of these as well…


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hey Shumlmey, welcome to LJs.
Sorry things aren't going so well for you.
You will get it.

I have found that glue 'sets up' in about 5 minutes. I hold them tight for several of those. Blue tape may come in handy, as well as some home made cauls. But like I said, I just hold them and constantly check the edges for squeeze out. And I spent a bunch of time making sure that they were flat, etc.

I use a foam roller for glue spreading, as it puts a fine film of glue down. And I always do both sides, what I was always taught as 'buttering'.

But how about cutting the sticks into 10 inch length or so? They are *a lot easier *to align. If you plan it out a bit, it should make no difference in wood waste. If you use a 1/8 inch blade for cross cutting, 10 inches will give you 8 one inch pieces. You can do the same math for whatever thickness you want. You can always glue tack the sticks back to long lengths for crosscutting if you don't like holding small pieces near the blade.

Let me know how it goes,
Steve


----------



## shulmey

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I tried to glue by hand one or two more of them yesterday and was about ready to give up. My wife and I had a couple over for dinner last night and the husband had an awesome suggestion which I tried today, and it worked like a champ. I took a piece of scrap 2×4, and cut a V that was almost as deep as the triangle, put some packing tape on it to keep the glue from sticking, and voila, I can now clamp my triangles! Took about 2 minutes to make 4 of them. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else is having the same issue I was.


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


So…. the home made caul idea worked for you.
Yeah!!

Now on to the big glue up. I hope you get just as creative there too.
Steve


----------



## CalgaryGeoff

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hi SPalm, I am going to make one of these boards this week and post pictures of it finished. Thanks for the plan and inspiration.


----------



## degoose

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I just received an order from a fellow LJ for one of these for XMAS…he ordered 4 endgrain boards last year… so I will try the caul idea from shulmey…
Cheers.


----------



## RetiredCoastie

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thanks for your blog and inspiration. I just finished building the ripping jig, ripped the stock and built a clamping jig for the initial glue up and the clamping jig worked very well for the dry assembly. I'll perform the glue up tomorrow. The big challenge will be building a jig for clamping the second glue up of the sub assemblies but I think I have that figured out. This is a fun project!

Thanks again Spalm!


----------



## RetiredCoastie

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve






























SPALM, here is the clamping jig I came up with. It seems to work pretty well on test pieces. I may have to down size it but for now I can clamp pieces 24" in length. Thanks again for the ideas and inspiration!


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Sweet. That's clever. It looks like it did a dandy job.
Don't forget to make an equal number of right hand and left hand sticks.

And the next glue up with the triangles is a bugger too. 
Good luck,
Steve


----------



## RetiredCoastie

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve







































Thanks for the heads up Steve. So far the clamping jig works very well.


----------



## RetiredCoastie

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve







































My jig for gluing the triangles based on CalgaryGeoff's jig design http://lumberjocks.com/projects/54280 with a few modifications. I hope this helps!


----------



## fernandoindia

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hey, this is great,

a blog in a blog !!

Happy New year to you both !


----------



## Dennisgrosen

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I second Fernando here 
great work

thanks for sharing both of you 
Dennis


----------



## Scjwonder

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


You are insane! I thought I wanted to try a "simple" tumbling block board for my next project. Your concept is captivating! Brilliant! and your tutorial is even understandable. Hard not to want to try it. Nice work, brilliant design and super tutorial. Thanks for sharing your creativity. Love LJ- great project ideas! Some great follow-on glue-up jig ideas too.

Steve


----------



## lumberjim

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


This is beautiful work, but I'm not sure I understand the explanation. You say about the trapezoids: "The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom." If the top and both sides are all supposed to be equal, why in your example is the top 0.87", one side is 0.87", but the other side is 0.75" (rather than 0.87")? Thanks.


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hey LJim,

The top = the sides = 2 times the bottom is true. What is confusing here is the .75 you refer to is the thickness of the board, and not the dimension of one of the sides. Note that the arrows of the .75 are pointing straight up and down depicting the thickness. Sorry if I drew it kind of screwy. The top, left, and right hand sides are .87" while the bottom is 1.73" (or better said with 1x, 1x, 1x and 2x).

Steve


----------



## lumberjim

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Now I understand! Thank you so much for helping out new woodworkers like me.


----------



## InsideTheBox

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


ok Steve, I've been studying your blog and your designs as well and want to make one (or several) of these o-so-awesome boards. So I want to know, in the interest of saving time/energy… couldn't you just glue the glued-up triangle boards into several long parallello-(paralellogram-, parallelograms-- ??) and cut the tiny-triangle glue-up hassle in half? I'm also trying to figure out another way that's not triangles… Like maybe taking the trapezoidal sticks and gluing THEM together base-to-base to make hexagonals… and then gluing the set of three hexagonals together to make one big 3-hexagon combo and THEN cut and glue THOSE puppies together… maybe by then they would be too big for the saw…
Notice I'm not trying to DO it myself… yet…


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hey ITB,
Yes you could do all that  
There are always trade offs with subassemblies. A whole bunch of people have built this board successfully. Some of them just post their results and never tell us how they did it.

As with lots of these board designs, if you cut your parts really carefully, they go together successfully. It all starts with good cutting which makes the glue-up less stressful. And maybe a wee bit-o-luck.

Just go for it; you get three gold stars if you make one.
Steve


----------



## Jhopewell

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


That board is spectacular!


----------



## Ckookla

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Any work that makes me want to try to make one myself; I think is a great testament to how good you have done. And this really makes me want to try one! And thanks to your very helpful post; I just may try one out!! Thanks for the great project and great post!!


----------



## Woodjammer

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I'm in the process of building this board and having a heck of a time trying to find a way to do the glue up of the triangles. While studying your excellent drawings, I noticed, as have others, that the design is also made up of three different types of hexigons. Seems like clamping hexagons together is a whole lot easier than triangles. I cut enough trapezoids out to make two boards and hadn't yet glued the second batch into triangles, so I'll give that a try and see how the build and out come compares. Thanks for the great ideas.


----------



## Gururoofer

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Could you give a better description of the sled you made for this project? This board is awesome and I'd like to give it a go


----------



## Woodjammer

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Thought I'd do a follow up. I did try both the triangle and the hexagon options for glue up and have to say that both were challenging. Final boards were about equal in terms for having some minor gaps needing filling, but I can probably say that greater accuracy in the initial cutting of the trapizoids would probably have eliminated most of these problems for me. Overall, I would suggest construction of the glue up jigs shown by RetiredCoastie is probably required for a good job using the triangular configuration. Somewhat simpler jigs can probably do the job for the hexagonal configuration.


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hey WJ, kudos to you.

It is not an easy build. Not really difficult, but not easy. I would recommend that cutting the parts correctly is key. Just a note; my board has been in daily use since the day it was made, and we do a lot of cooking and even make our own bread. It has received a lot of knife cuts and still looks great.

As far as the sled goes, it is just a board the has been ripped at sixty degrees, had some clamps attached, and some hardboard glued on the bottom. I taped another piece of hardboard on the left side of the blade for balance.

Proud of anyone who tries it
Steve


----------



## MikeB2

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


One word to describe "Awesome"


----------



## Steve_C

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


So I finally decided to try this and am just now gluing the strips up. I am using Walnut, Mahogany and White Oak because this is what I had lying around the shop. I doubt it will ever be used as a cutting board, maybe a serving tray, so the type of wood is less important than the color.

Anyway I took a solid fir timber I had and cut it 2 feet long, just like the strips. Then after planing it smooth I cut a "V" notch in it exactly at the 60 degree angle I used to cut the strips. I put two pieces of birch pre-finished 1/4 plywood strips in it to keep the glue from sticking.





































Before I started gluing I tested all the strips to see which ones fit together the best and in what orientation. Sometimes turning the whole group resulted in it fitting in the "V" groove more precisely. That way I can make sure I don't need to worry about that while gluing. I only have two done so far, but should have them all done today. Afterwards I plan to use the same "V" jig and run them thru the planer to slightly clean the outer surfaces and make them all identical before slicing them up.

I have a plan for a jig to glue those pieces together as well. I'll post more pics as I go.


----------



## Steve_C

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve





















So here is the first strips run thru the planer. The resulting triangles will be slightly smaller, but will all be very clean and precise. It should not matter for the final pattern other than to make it fit better.


----------



## Woodjammer

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Steve, Using the glueing jig to run them through the planer seems like a great idea to get them all to the exact same dimensions. Let us know how that works out. Especially any snipe issues.


----------



## Steve_C

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Using the Jig to run them thru the planer worked great. No Snipe and nice clean surfaces on all of the pieces. I actually used the jig in my chop saw to cut up the strips after I planed it to keep the cuts clean and prevent tear out.

This is a pic of the jig I made for gluing them back together. It's basically made from 2×6 with both sides being identical. Again I used the pre-finished plywood strips to keep the glue from sticking. I actually used the same strips from the previous steps. Using a putty knife the glue comes right off after each glue-up.


----------



## Woodjammer

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


I like the glueing jig. I previously built the one with the many screw clamps and while it works, yours seems much simpler and easier to use. Good work! Looking forward to seeing the finished board. Maybe after you finish this one you can move on to the similar but more complecated one (see photo below). I've finished one and the pic is of a second awaiting glue up but may have to recut some of the blocks due to poor size matchup between the two piece hexagons and the three piece units.


----------



## Steve_C

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow, that looks like a fun one! I definitely would consider trying that, sometimes you just have to dive in and get your hands on it to find out easier ways to do it. I feel your pain on trying to get these things cut consistently so they line up. It all seems worth it when you finally get to start seeing the patterns come together.

Thanks for the encouragement and good luck!


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Just proves there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Wow, that looks fantastic so far,
Steve


----------



## Steve_C

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Here is the finished board with the first coat on.

Overall I am pretty pleased with the results. I would do it the same way if I did it again.


----------



## duaneg

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Wow, just found this project now. Any chance that I can get the plans for this. I tried to get the plans for the original Steps, but that page was out of date. I am pretty much a beginner wood worker, but want to try something a little harder. This looks like something I would like to try. Thanks.


----------



## Steve_C

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Check Youtube for some other plans for this same board! Its Fun!


----------



## clew

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


This is an absolutely great design and a challenge to build. Beautiful. I had made two now, and found that gluing the bars together first and then slicing them into strips made it easier to assemble with precision.


----------



## kneebus54

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


love this board and I will be attempting to do one soon. question for you though, at the top you say you had to notch out the sides and you have two different measurements for the pieces, can you specify what you mean by notching them out and why the two different measurements please? thanks and it looks amazing.


----------



## SPalm

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Kneebus54, forget the chat about the notch. When LJs ported the pics from Photobucket they switched the order. I fixed it now and maybe it makes a bit more sense. All three of the pieces are 60°. Just remember to make the right and left hand ones.

It is not an easy glue up. Cut the pieces accurately helps a bunch.

Steve


----------



## ward63

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve












I really like this design! I managed to make 2 different styles. I used horse chestnut, cherry and walnut.

Thank you for sharing!!!


----------



## navarro1950

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Great looking board! Thanks for sharing your pattern information with us. I love it.


----------



## ConcreteSalad

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
> 
> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


Hey there… 'late to the party, but at least the keg wasn't dry yet… heh. I searched long and hard To find this. It may have helped to know the nomenclature, but hey, it's my can of worms, so that's where I get To sleep. I'm building a coffee table with this parquet/marquetry(I should know the difference, but… yeah, about that) element, and I was unsure of the dimensions, so… thank you!


----------



## Jbbaby

SPalm said:


> *Steps Cutting Board Version 2 (Two Step)*
> 
> This is a second generation Steps cutting board made out of walnut, maple, and cherry. The first Steps board I made used a basic square with edge of maple and cherry to make it a block and a notch to do the stepping. I wanted to try to make a stepping board using the hex Tumbling Block design, and this is what I came up with.
> 
> In order to make the hex do the stepping, I needed to notch all three sides, as can be seen in the Sketchup drawing. The cool thing here is that it steps in two directions. I spent a bit of energy trying to create the hex block drawn in the middle, but ended up with a 'built up' block on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> After staring at the drawing of several of these blocks placed together, it seemed easiest to use triangles as the first subassembly. This never would have occurred to me if I had not drawn this all out. These triangles are made of three identically shaped Trapezoids (pyramids with the tops chopped off). The dimension of these is such that the top = the sides = 2 times the bottom. This ratio makes an easy check in the beginning to prove that the parts are cut right before proceeding. There are only two triangle combinations used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> I thickness sanded the three woods and another sacrificial piece of poplar to around 3/4 of an inch and then ripped one side at 60 degrees. I then made a 60 degree ripping sled with clamps to help hold these boards. It worked great and was easy to make. I kept creeping up to the correct width using the poplar to test. Once the width was set, the rest of the ripping was simple and safe. Clamp the board to the sled and slide the whole thing through the blade.
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> I then glued up triangle sticks of the three woods, remembering to make an equal total length of the two versions. In hind sight, I should have made shorter sticks. It would have been much easier to align the edges, as any error here is carried forward.
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> I lightly sanded these sticks before crosscutting them into little blocks. Reminds me of Stratego.
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> Then the big glue up. What could possibly go wrong? Well…… There are only 60 degree angles used (i.e. really pointy), and those little triangles really like to slide (i.e. shoot) around. I ended up gluing them into 8 vertical columns, and then lightly sanded the sides before gluing the columns to each other. I wish to have a second chance at this and come up with a better or more relaxed version. But there are always tradeoffs on choosing the size of a subassembly, or in choosing not to use them at all.
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> Here is a pic after the first sanding with the drum sander. I also cut the tips off of the outside triangles. It just has a coat of mineral spirits on it.
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> And here is a view from the diagonal. I love this view. It looks like a weave pattern.
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> I will post this to the Project section when I am done with the cleanup.
> Steve


This is so well done and helpful. THANK YOU ! Jay


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