# Tool tote / caddy travel



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*a learning travel in tools and techniques.*

*Tool tote / caddy travel*
a learning travel in tools and techniques.

Yes some of you will say: 'come on Mad(s), we heard about this, and you will never get done with those dovetails'.
And I have to admit: 'I have been a chicken when it comes to dovetails'.

*The project:*
The project is a tool tote or tool box (many opinions on the name), a mix of some wonderful pine wood boards from an old closet, and a branch from the forest!









Here the design I did, a simple but 'hopefully' long, slim and elegant tool tote.

*The challenge:*
The challenge for me is to make all the processes, in different ways.
This means that I will be able to test my skills, and also that I will be allowed to use some of those wonderful old planes I have bought so I can live up to my title as rhykenologist!

With both power (modern), and hand tools (old),I will compare the difference in the work with both types, and to get on a travel in learning, both for my limits (due to health), and for what I can do that I thought was not possible (due to skills).
Part of the challenge is no nails or screws, old techniques, and glue, gravity or wood pins to hold it together (I do know nails are not a new invention, but this is woodworking jungle style, in the suburbs of Copenhagen).










First step was to make a tongue and grove in the boards, since they were too narrow for the project.
For this I had the chance to use my tuned up Record no 50 planes, and they run fine and smooth along the edge on their new wooden fences, it was so easy that I had no reason to start up any power tools, the fresh smell of wood that hit my nose and the wonderful shavings, was worth all the sweat. (I need to buy spurs, these were missing).
I made the job on my Festool MFT and as you can see the clamping was easy, and since I added ballast under the table, it was completely steady, so I was happy while listening to Marvin Gaye.










Glue the tongue and grove, and make a flat clamping.
Again the table was a dream to work on, as you can see the clamping could provide pressure from all sides needed. I put some newspaper under to provide me from getting stuck on the table after…










Now I just have to get rid of the newspapers… Dahhhhh!










Finally time for some shavings again!
First I ran a tour de Stanley 4, then the 62 and ended up with a scraper.
This was where I realized I had to make the scraper set up tool…
You can see on the photos the shavings I produced with the different types, and yes - I love that 62, she is a babe (if my health would allow me, I could just stand there and make shavings for hours until the tote was all gone).










It was the first time in my life I really used a scraper seriously, and I loved it, especially the finish it leaves.










And just for pleasure a close up of the shavings.










The scraper is also excellent for removing glue.










So time for a cut with a Japanese pull saw, this saw really impressed me, I put nothing under to avoid tear out, but still there were almost none. I made a cut with a knife first on top and bottom.










The cut was clean and sharp, and it was easy to cut with.
(But these little moves go right to my nerves, and give me pain, so hand sawing is a luxury).










So time to call in the cavalry.
Festool TS55 EBQ-Plus, on the MFT table makes cutting such a easy task, it's really like putting butter on bread. I simply love that saw, and the cuts are perfect.










Fist set up! It looks awfully high, and the planes so small… But I'll trust my instincts.










Time for a walk in the forest.
Then home and use one of my home made knifes, a curved pocket knife, and spokeshaves that also are a new tool for me - I simply loved to run the spokeshaves up those curves, and to feel how smooth they cut after my refurbish of them. Wauuuuu!
I was lucky to find a wonderful branch, and also to be reminded of the beauty of the forest - this is after all where the travel starts, when we talk wood. The trees I mean!
(I even found one to make me a walking stick, one with a natural made handle).










And so she was stripped until completely naked! What a sight.
After it was the scraper that made her completely trimmed and shaved.










Cutting out the ends of the tool tote, here with a coping saw.
(Again this is not the best for me, but I enjoy the ride).










So we take a tour at the band saw, with a narrow blade, so I can get into the curves.










Both sides are identical.










Test set up with all four sides, it seems to be the right proportions, so I'm kind of happy.










Time to cut holes for the branch handle, I use a Forstner bit.
I know I was supposed to cut one by hand, but I had used the coping saw enough, so I took the fast road…










And another set up to determine the final proportions.
I have cut the sides roughly to size.










Sketch of the way I will attach the bottom of the tote.










Marking up the bottom.
Review of the Veritas gauge.










And the side!










Cutting the rebate, with a Stanley no. 78 rebate plane.
It's a fine plane, even the fence are short, and therefore lack of accuracy, but the job is fast done.










Cleaning up with a Record 311. I have said this before, but to me this is the most wonderful plane I ever had in my hand.
As you can see the MFT table really do the clamping job again.










The rest of the rabbets I cut on the table saw, to spare my now tired arms.










Bottoms up!
And you can see my grease box of course was at use to smoothen the ride of my hand planes.










Grooving with a Record 43, another of my favorites, this little baby are so easy to control, and when sharp, a real pleasure to work with.










The groove. (Sounds like a funk band!).
And yes I cut to deep on that table saw - I'm really ashamed…










The groove corner close up.










Another set up!










Realizing the disaster!!!
The grove will become visible on the tool tote end. Ahhhhhhgggggg….










Sides cut to length.
Buying time to think!










The tools for dovetails (especially the pipe and the tobacco are important).
My Squarerulerbevelangelbandit can get into use.
I reviewed the little Razor saw.
And a good book to learn it all from is The complete dovetail.










Here we are in dovetail heaven, my first dovetails ever, provoked by my brother Div, and I needed to drink a big cup of espresso to gather the nerves.










First dovetails ever!
Yes they can be improved, but I was happy, and only the visible grove still haunted me.










This marking was fantastic… I think I had a meltdown, or perhaps I just had too much espresso…










But at the end I succeeded, not only with the dovetails, but also to solve my head ache with a mitered corner. So I was back on the happy branch again.










The solution to my prayers!










Oh yes, and I almost blew it, by cutting of the wrong part! You can see the chisel mark…










And here that I cut the hole dovetail, before I realized the solution.










So now it was just to repeat, and when I made a million they will be perfect.
My Hansen mallet was just perfect, but I will have to try and make a smaller one of brass, to make it more handy.










Here it is, after assembly with no glue.
Almost ready for the road!

I'll split the blog up here, so it does not become too long for a ISDN connection…
In the next part I will make the glue up and finish.

Hope this little travel can be to inspiration, or in best case a tool tote

*Best thoughts,*
MaFe


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


great save on the mitered corner

very well done

and looks GREAT !


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Thank you Patron, you make my day!
Smile,
Mads


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## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


You tell a Great Story, Mads!!
An Epic Adventure, filled with things learned and affirmed, and Treasure gleaned from thin air… and heart's desire…
I love your work, my Friend… it's plain to see the love that you put into the making… 
Bravo!!


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## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Pretty cool tote you have there. I've never seen anyone cut dovetails into the long grain side of a board like you have done. You usually only see them cut into the end grain of a board. They look like they have been cut and fit very nicely. Well done.

Doc


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Doc, what should I have done? Used the wood I had. But I should have made the end grain tails big, and the others small, that would have been clever… I learn!
Mike, 'The Epic dove tail adventure' that could have been quite a tite. I smile all over my face by your words, they are as large as mine…
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Praki (Jun 17, 2007)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Nicely done! I have been thinking of building a tool toe for some time and now I am motivated.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


"But I should have made the end grain tails big, and the others small, ..."

Other way around. End grain pins narrow, long grain tails wide.

Is that a price tag I see hanging from the handle in the last photo?


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Mafe: You have beautifull handtools I dream off. I am pretty sure they are useless without the master holding them.

Where is that table saw? I have never seen it in any of the pictures you posted.
great work.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Ian, I try my best, but really I'm a beginner in this. It's a Festool saw, a 55plunge on a CMS unit (I love it), you can see it in two of my posts, one where I gave it wheels, and one where I made a mitre sled.
Swirt, no no price tag, a name tag, I do not sell 'yet'.








This is what I mean Swirt.
Praki, thats wonderful.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Great drawing. Yep that's what I meant too  And swapping the pins for the tails like you did in the drawing is good too because I think it avoids the single plane of weakness created by having the tails be on the long grain like you did in the actual box. So this drawing is even a better improvement than I suggested. Well done.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


I might end up almost clever one day!
(I love to make this sort of drawings).
Thank you,
Mads


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Clever one day? Your modesty makes me laugh and smile. You continued cleverness inspires me and many others on a daily basis.


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## rdlaurance (Mar 28, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


I echo patron's words… Great Save on the miter.

Another good save would have been to inlay a small piece of dark wood in those holes and then make additional inlays across the bottom ends (between the other inlays) to make it all look intentional, except we already saw your drawings…ha ha

Great Blog Mads.


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## DaddyT (Oct 15, 2008)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


What a great read. I love the tote, and plane on making my own. You are also a very good photographer. And I love that nice Hawkbill knife, havent seen one of those in a long time.

Best regards
Jimi


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## B13 (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


I like the handle the best the sketch also looks great! I love It when a plan comes together great! job Mafe


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *a learning travel in tools and techniques.*
> 
> *Tool tote / caddy travel*
> a learning travel in tools and techniques.
> ...


Hey,
B13, yes nothing like when the plan takes form, and we can see our thoughts crry the frits. ;-)
DaddyT, I did not know the 'Hawkbill knife' expression, it was a nice quality steel from Germany but with a bad handle, so i rehandeled the knife, and then it became one of my favorite garden knifes, I knew it under the name of 'pruning knife'. I look forward to see your go on the tote.
Rick, yes I had to live up to the drawing - laugh.
Swirt, ;-).
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*glue up and details.*

*Tool tote travel*
glue up and details

*This is second part of the tool tote travel.*










Time for glue up.
Table covered, water, PU glue, brush and gloves.










Applying water on the joints, so the glue will work, and expand as wanted.
Then the glue, and the rest is a just a puzzle, where you don't want to use your camera, since you forgot to wear the gloves, and had glue all over…










So here we are with clean fingers, and a clamped up tool tote.
It's important that you have remembered the handle at this point, since mine can't come out again…










Starting to make the interior.
The dreawers that will later come needs something to ride on, so while the glue dry, I plane and cut the two 'runners'.










I also decided at this point to make some pegs to hold the handle.
So I took a piece of cut of from the branch, and cut it up.
(On the side you see the beautiful burl I got from my friend Jamie).










Dish sanding in shape.









Cut to length.










Final shaping.










Clamps removed after dry up, and ready for some finish.
First with the scraper. Not bad at all for a vintage architect…










Ok all was not perfect after all…
So I mix some sawdust and some white glue to make a filler to hide my mistakes from my LJ friends!










Time to fix the handle, and to change my mind!
The idea with the wooden pegs, are not elegant enough, it's too rustic for my design…










Drilling a hole! Bravo!!!










Making some new pegs, out of round stock.
Pointing one end, so they will glide through the holes.










After hammering them in place with a little glue added, I cut of the ends.
This I believe gives a more discrete but still visual joint.










And yes I wax!










Two mistakes here!
First are the spur by the dovetail, I cut too deep with the marker, but this is easy to solve with a glue and sawdust mixture.
What is worse is that I did not think of the gab that would come on top where the two sides meet (I had made my marking after the side before the dovetail was subtracted)… Learning by doing!










Rescue 911, I saw it down, in a matching curve - and we are close….










Time to spin that sander!










And a smaller for the meeting point.










And here we are! Ready to take that pipe for a walk.










And inside the box two little fine pegs, ready for another project…

I'll split the blog up here again, so it does not become too long for a ISDN connection…
In the next part I will make the interior.

Hope this little travel can be to inspiration, or in best case a tool tote

*Best thoughts,*
MaFe


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Nice Blog. And nice project too. Thanks for posting.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


a great tote

will it fit under the seat
on the airplane

or do you have to make another one

in paris


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


great humoristic blog as usual Mads
keep up with the good work

Dennis


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Looks good. A fun little tote and I think the handle is fantastic.

I also have good news. I don't think you cut too deep with the marking knife as you said for this photo.









I think (at least from the photo) that the split failure of the wood along the grain line. Dovetails work great for end grain to end grain joinery, but they don't work so well for end grain to long grain. To increase their potential for success on end grain to long grain, we have to use narrower pins (on the end grain) and wider tails on the long grain to take advantage of the longer run of long grain.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Swirt, first the wood did not split, it's only a splint. Second Ahhhh!!! yes I should have read my book more carefull… I was to occupied designing. Thank you. I learn therefore I am, sometimes I wish I was more… ;-)
Jorge, yes soon I will try to make bets with you, I'm a real hustler! No the truth is that one year ago, I had only one or two hand planes, but I have had my eyes open for many years as a architect. And it really was my first dove tails.
Dennis, what do you mean humor? Are you pulling my leg? I'm not funny at all, it's serious buisness. 
Patron, I made another tote in Paris, but not as fancy…
This one I belive is so fancy that I can take it for a walk to the queens garden…
Rance, thank you.
Best thoughts - the hustler of dove tails,
Mads


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Mafe,

Great tote!

I like the trenails you made from the branch scraps. I'm sure you'll use then on another project very soon.

Life may be serious business but it's essential that we have fun along the way…

Be Careful!

Herb


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Thank you Herb.
When I now had to use the wood in this direction, then I can see the point in makeing the side tails small, and then the cross grain big. I have learned a lesson. Thank you Swirt.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


I have a feeling I'm better off with MaFe, but I do like short names:
MaFe, Mad(s), Mad F, Mads, the: dovetail hustler, president of the GBOC, fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect.
I laugh big time, I will think about this in a 1000 dove tails.
Smile,
Mads


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## Napoleon (Sep 16, 2010)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Wonderefull toolbox you havr made there,and such a pleasure to read about 

Well done mr Mfdfva


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Man for doing folish vacation adventures?


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## Napoleon (Sep 16, 2010)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


Mads felding dovetail and there its goes wrong….i wrote the letters wrong cause was in a hurry so no wonder you cant gues it..

Its was the meaning with one letter from each word and bla bla i am a fool.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

mafe said:


> *glue up and details.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel*
> glue up and details
> ...


LOL Don't thank me too much (I don't want it to turn to blame later).  The narrow pins wide tails combination is not a recipe for a strong long-grain to end-grain joint, just stronger than having equal size pins and tails.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*finger joints on a template / jig.*

*Tool tote travel 3*
finger joints on a template / jig

*This is third part of the tool tote travel.*










Now I have cut dovetails by hand, so it's time to play with machines again…
This time some finger joints, since it's a learning experience.

I bought some years ago a router template for finger joints, and half blind dovetails.
I paid 100$ on a sale and never opened the box… So now it was time!










I found a 10 mm router bit as the set needed, and made a test cut on some plywood…










Or more exactly it was not a 10 mm bit, since the tails did not fit, and it was more blowout, that cut…
So from now it could only get better!










So a new bit found, and it fit.










Still a lot of blow out.
Lesson learned, choose right bit, use a piece of scrap wood to stop blow out.










Cutting the pine for my little boxes. My sweet God of wood, I love that Festool saw, I cant belive all the years I spend with a old skill saw, and a dull blade, wondering why my wood working never got to a higher level…










Smoking a pipe, and watching my job.
We must never forget to enjoy, this is at the end the essence, and the smell of fresh cut pine, mixed with a good tobacco - wauuuuuuu….










All set up, and ready to go.
I have this old 'extra' router, that I mounted the base plate on, in this way, I can leave it on, and use it only for this purpose.










First box cut, it was really easy, but I need to be more patient, and forgot my lesson learned, that I needed a scrap wood in front to avoid blow out…










Cutting a rabbet on the table saw, to mount the bottom of the box.










Close up!
A vintage architect with glasses need that!










Cutting a bottom board.
I use here for the test some thin plywood, even it's a stranger in the design…










Front view, of the bottom - does this sounds naughty or is it just me…
I probably looked too much in the Big But book!










A box, and a match box.










Glue up, now I remembered paper under - clever me!










The experiment! 
One box will be just glued.
One box will be glued and then get some plastic wood filler.
Why?










Wood filler. Yes I wanted to try the difference on the two boxes, just to experiment.










Sandy!










Little box by the wall, who is prettiest of them all?










Not bad with some wood filler!










What can I say, a little but ok gap….










That's just what we are looking for!










Dividers!










Using that ugly Stanley saw! Japanese… Chinese perhaps! For some flush cut I think you call it!










Rails are mounted with glue and pegs.










Plenty of clamps - enough actually.










Tool tote,
Tool tote on the wall, 
who is useful after all…

Again I'll split the blog up, so it does not become too long for a ISDN connection…
In the next part I will make the interior finish I think.

Hope this little travel can be to inspiration, or in best case a tool tote

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Another cool project MaFe I like the handle a good touch.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Nice form on the box ends and I love the handle. Altogether very well done Mads, and it looks very useful too.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


great blog Mads 

take care
Dennis


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## AuroraWoodworks (Nov 6, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Nice job.

Can you adjust your jig so it makes a deeper cut? That way the pins are proud of the box face and you can plane them flush.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Tony, they were, it's just the picture. They were app half a mm proud, and I took them down with a low angel apron plane (Veritas). The filler was just to fill the very small gaps left from the bit, to test it.
Dennis, take care. I transported the axis yester day out to be cut in lenght, so things are happening.
Mike, I think it might be a favorite, I think also the design went well.
Jim, the handle was found in the forest at the same day as my walking stick, that cant walk…
Thank you,
best thoughts,
Mads


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


great to hear  I realy hope it will work out for you 

one little note to your wood filler , but you proppely already know it
it wont take stain and lack the same way and will always bee visible as a filler

Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Yes I know Dennis, except paint… and in some years even more… But this is a test piece, not a show piece.
It will work out with the V-drum, just wait, I never give up… Almost!
Smiles,
Mads


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## PaBull (May 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Thanks for the post. Nice to see you have been in the shop long enough to make this tote. Don't over do it now to please us viewers on this end of LJ.

Take it easy! Pabull


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## Maveric777 (Dec 23, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


I enjoyed the journey with ya Mads on your little experimentation… How fun and thanks for sharing!

P.S. I also loved playing "Where's Waldo" with the pipe on every picture….lol… Very cool added touch my friend.


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Great Mads,
your having such fun with it.
How big is your saw?
Jamie


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Jamie, it's a ts55, my problem here are not the deepth but that my work shop are so small, that I have to bring it out side for sheets, but since I have two of them, I don't need to take it of the table when I need to do so, so it works fine. I put the saw on wheels, and the vac too, then I roll it all out to cut bigger things. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/31112
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


These are very nicely done, Mads. There is nothing in this world wrong with machinery and jigs and this was another very enjoyable blog post. Thanks.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


I agree, nothing wrong with that, for me it's been a learning process, and I learned, that I really need machines, du to my health, but I do love more to do it by hand. 
If I had to do woodworking for a living, I'm sure that most would be done by machine, but as hobby, I think it's wonderful to look at work of the hand, and to enjoy the process.
Thank you Helluvawreck.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## rdlaurance (Mar 28, 2009)

mafe said:


> *finger joints on a template / jig.*
> 
> *Tool tote travel 3*
> finger joints on a template / jig
> ...


Another great illustrated and descriptive blog Mads…. how I love these…. don't smoke though I have enjoyed the fragrance of a good cut of tobacco leaf…. your blogs go good with my morning cup of coffee!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*

*Hand cut box joints*
a tool tote tray.

*A real step by step, about simple box joints, with hand tools.*

My favourite tool tote, that I build back in 2010 (as you can see in this blog series), needed a new tray, as the old one had changed purpose.

The old tray had also always felt wrong for me as, I didn't like the proportions and the machine made box joints, didn't go well with the hand cut dovetails on the tote it self. I like machine cut box joints a lot, but not mixed with hand cut dovetails, here the contrast was simply too big.









Here the good old tool tote, that some of you might remember.









Since the tote has been in use for more than ten years, I had to find a way to make the new tray old…
This was where I remembered, that I had some old wine box wood laying on a shelf, it's from a famous wine company in Denmark, that delivers for the Royal family and so they are allowed to use the crown.









The end piece split in two, were just enough for the ends.









Now I had to find out where to put the cuts, so it will destroy as little as possible, of the ornamentation.









The company name will go.









For the length of the box, it was also a matter of how close I could go.









Of course taking the measures from the tote.









A have a good friend, her name is Kjær, so I saved these parts of the name for her.









Here are the old tote trays, they have become drawers of nonsense and help me keep order trays on the workbench years back and really happy for them here.









For the bottom some 3 mm plywood, even I actually regret that decision later, as the old one had a pine bottom, but we have to remember this is a tool, not a furniture, smiles.









All the parts were put aside, this was a couple of weeks ago.









Yesterday, I were in the mood to do some hand tool work, did not want to start a new project, but so some thing, that was fast and could be made in a day, so this little project was just the thing to finish up.
Up came my little bench top bench , as I love to use this, when hand cutting, box or doves, it gives good hold, it's fast and in a good working height most of all.









I decided to make a little lesson in making the joints, even I think many of you can, or have seen me do it before, but there will always be a new person, or something we did not see before. For those that are new to hand cutting joints, trust me, everyone can learn it, here I'll take the fast and easy way, that are good for a beginner to start with.
First step is to layout the joints, this can be done easily with a divider, if you want the same spacing, just set for app size you want and run over the board, if you go too far, close the divider a wee bit, to short open, until you go exactly from edge to edge, then punch small holes with the divider as you go, so you can draw after these.
(I'll get into more details later).









As I'm using existing wood here, I have to take into account, that the wood might be uneven, here really uneven and warped…









Like so - grrrrrrrr - I can't fix it, as I want to keep the patina of the old wood.









So first up, place the boards as you want them.
If possible make the warping of the wood go outwards on the middle, as it will be easy to clamp in when gluing.









Mark the pieces, so you don't get them messed up.
By writing numbers in the bottom, I also know that this is the bottom.









The pieces can now be used to mark the box joints thickness.
If you had wood that were all the same, it could have been done easy with a marking gauge instead.









You can see that the change of the woods thickness, has been taken into account now. Like this the box will be square on the outside and the slope will be on the inside, where it does not matter.









Repeat for all.









Finally we can mark up our box joints with a pencil.
Always mark up what will be cut away, trust me on this, if you don't, you will fail at some point, I talk from experience.









I were in the mood for Japanese saws, so I picked up the good once and put on some Spanish flamingo music, you don't need any of that, you can do with any fine teeth saw, if you are a wee confused now…









When sawing the challenge is to hold the saw exactly 90 degrees, but you can correct this in the other side after, so don't worry too much now and enjoy the prectice.









When sawing, you should leave the pencil line intact on the good side and saw down in the part marked as waste.
Saw only as deep as down to the line, you marked from the other side of the box.









Removing the waste.
No one can cut down straight in one cut, so don't try that.
I like to go a little out from the line as you see here, then hammer the chisel down just ¼ of the boards thickness or so, something like two good blows with the hammer.
(Here you can see there are some compass marks, that are visible, it was some I made by mistake, as I had forgotten to lock down the compass - why we measure twice and cut once).









Notice I have turned the board around now.
Again a little off the line, but now going all the way through, so most of the waste are gone.









On the same side, going up to the line and around half way though, as it is easy to control now and the chisel will not be bushed into the wood, but the wood be pushed away.









Again turning and now we can finish up.
(You might see I have been a little aggressive when sawing here, but this is so little that the glue will hide it.).









While I were cutting box joints, I had a cake in the workshop oven, this one is finished now. You don't need that either to cut box joints, but it brings an extra dimension of joy.









Sides done.
Notice that I have full fingers top and bottom, this is to make the side you see look solid and this was what I wanted to get back to in the layout.
As a rule; always end the same and the side you want to look the most solid, is where the top and bottom should be fingers, the side where you start and stop with nothing, will always look a little less as a surface and as if it is tilting inwards there.









For the other half you don't use dividers!!!
Why?
Because you have already made some small mistakes sawing (no matter how good you are) and these can be corrected, by using the matching piece as a template, this is also helping you, if you did not saw perfectly 90 degrees first. 
So with a sharp pencil mark the fingers now, as close to the sides as possible.









Really bad picture sorry, but if you look carefully, you can see they have been marked now and again waste part, has been marked also.









Same as before saw on the waste side of the line, but now look carefully, that you stay on the line.









As you can see I stayed on the waste side, even a little extra, as my pen was not super sharp and it's easy to remove a little if needed after.









The sides are easiest to just saw, then you don't risk a blow out on the side, when using the chisel again leave the line.









Just like this.









For the middle, same way as before.









Now comes the moment of truth!
Here I'm happy with the result.
If you want it better than this, you will need to cut the markings, with a marking knife, before sawing and using the chisel.









Getting closer again.









Time to cut the cake.









It was soooooooooooooooooooooooooo good!
A pound cake, with spices, a dark chocolate bar, roasted almonds and vodka infused cherries.
I to a break and had a coffee with it, at this time.
Big happy smile here.









Cutting rabbets for the bottom on the table saw, I ran out of hand tool zen.
Notice the small plywood block on the left, I also made a cut in that one.
(Perhaps you will also notice something else strange…).









The small block is used to find the correct thickness for the second cut for the bottom.









To make sure it has the right thickness, before cutting into the actual pieces.









The size of the bottom can now be found.
Yes I know it's not pretty with the holes in the fingers, we will solve that later, don't worry.









Length can be taken like this, put ruler into the bottom groove, measure up to bottom of finger, then add one deepness of groove, minus a wee bit (1mm).









24,1 + groove deepness 4mm - 1mm tolerance = 24,4cm here. 
Hope it makes sense.









Cutting the bottom.









It fits!









We got a tool tote tray.









I think it's sweet and got a story in it.
The text says: KONGELIG HOFLEVERANDØR - ROYAL WARRENT, meaning the company are supplier for the Danish queen.









Enough wit the talking about queens and wine…
Wood glue and coffee.
The coffee just for joy.









Put glue on all surfaces, that will touch the other side.
I use plenty here, as the cuts are sawn, so quite rough.









Especially the end wood, needs a good layer as it will suck the glue up fast.
End gluing has only little strength if ant, in the first place.









Bottom can be pushed into place, once the three sides are done and then it can be glued up finally.









And clamped up, you can never have too many clamps!
When clamping check the diagonal measure, in the both directions, they should be the same or your box is out of square and need adjustment.









Once the clamps are on, you can see the fingers match nicely, except this one, where I were asleep sawing, so I did cut on the wrong side of the line… Yes wood working is also making mistakes.









So another important discipline of woodworking, is fixing mistakes.
From the waste wood, I cut some thin strips, with a chisel.









Like this the small mistake is hidden and no one (except from you), will ever notice.









For the ugly rabbet holes (not rabbit holes), we also just make a small plug.









That we glue in.









The fixes can be cut off, with a flush trim saw.
Again Japanese and still Spanish flaming music in the back.









With a low angle plane I trim the end of the fingers, this can also be done by sanding.
Be careful planing, that you hold the plane skewed and cut in towards the centre from each side, so you don't break off the corners of the wood and go in from each side.









I'll call that fair, as I can't go deeper without cutting into the wood where I want to keep the patina.









Finally the tote got a little tray again and is now ready to hold carving tools to bring out of the work shop.









I think it's sweet and in time they will fit each other completely, but as this is a tool, I will not start with dye and so on.









I think the contrast gives some life and I also like to leave the pencil marks as a charm.
If you want the fingers to get a even better fit, you can wet them a wee bit with water, this will make the wood grow a little.









But I'm pleased.









Put in a small tool organizer, just a quick one, this might become another project some day, where I want to use hand tools…









But for now I'm a happy monkey.









And the tray can slide from side to side, as the tote were meant to be used.

Other totes:
One smaller, but same design, with different method of box joints:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/130504

A more modern twist, with machine cut box joints:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/131872

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a tote, or a tray, or at least a few box joints, or even a cake…

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Very nice work, Mads. Hand cutting joints like that is very time consuming. I like the rustic handle!!!!!!!

Cheers, Jim


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## HowardAppel (Feb 3, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Very nice, the cake too. Question: are those brass clamps homemade or store bought?


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Nicely done Mads, and a good lesson in hand tool work. That cake sounds good too with the coffee.

The dividers are the way to lay out even joints and such. The last set of box joints I cut was done with a table saw jig set for 1/2" dado blade. I still mark everything out to include the waste. Very good tip you made about that.

I am sure that there are folks here that have learned a new task in the shop by following you.

Those clamps you are using look awesome.

Smiling here.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


A nice quick tray, and a great job preserving the bits you wanted from the wine box.

I find that I almost never cut box joints. I've done so many dovetails in the past couple years that I almost always do hand-cut dovetails when I need a small box, unless I'm in a huge hurry and just do rabbeted joints (usually with nails) or miters with splines.


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## Thefarmer (Oct 22, 2021)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Nice job, Mads! Inspiring.
Where can I find those lovely brass clamps?


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


I like the "KONGELIG HOFLEVERANDØR" mention on the box.

We tend to use thicker board then necessary.
Wine crate are made with pine (maritime pine in France).
A nailed twelve bottle crate would have 12 mm thick short sides, 10 mm tick long sides and a 8 mm thick bottom.
And 12 bottles would weight about 17 kg.

Of course it is the box shape which gives the strength; I would never put 17kg on a 8 mm thick shelf (especially if it is good wine).

Note: the short sides are thicker because there are grooves in them for bottle separators.
six bottle crate:









Unfortunately, wine makers tend to use cardboard boxes now;
In addition, some people grab the boxes in the big food stores without asking the permission so now they don't want to give empty boxes any more. Only solution: buying the six or twelve bottles in their crate.


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## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Nice box Mads, looks good in the tote.

And a pound cake, well a 0.45 kilo cake nowadays I guess ;-)


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Really inspired by the way you were able to save the patina on the pieces. I must remember that!

Your cake slicer reminded me of many years ago, while I was in high school vocational class, we had end of term parties and cakes and pies were always served with mason's trowels!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Hand cut box joints - a tool tote tray.*
> 
> *Hand cut box joints*
> a tool tote tray.
> ...


Hi hi ho and a bottle of wine…,

Jim Jakosh, Smiles thanks. I tried in this version to make them as little time consuming as possible. I can see from the original pictures, that it took 45 minutes, including marking and taking pictures, as well as looking out for the cake. So I guess it will be able to be done in 15-20 minutes, if one should go for speed, so not too bad actually. Perhaps I should try one day a speed test, just for the fun of it. Cheers dear Jim.

HowardAppel, The clamps are store bought, try searching for Japanese brass clamps. I live in Denmark, but buy mine from Fine tools in Germany - and I love them, think they are both beautiful and a joy to work with, so they give an extra dimension to the work. Thanks.

Eric, Thanks Eric, I tried this time to make it into a lesson, so I happy if it worked. The cake were really good, just ate last piece this morning. In Europe we are not allowed dado blades, you cant get a saw that can take them, they are considered to unsafe here… grrrr. The clamps are form Fine tools in Germany, but just search Japanese brass clamps and you will finde some local. Big smile back.

Dave Polaschek, Yes it's actually fast, when you do this method, as I wrote Jim, I could see on the pictures, that I spend 45 minutes including marking and taking pictures, so I will guess I can do it in 15-20, if I go just for speed.
I love box joints, but I think it a matter of the project, style, that the joint's are in style with the projects style. They are the same to cut by hand, it's just a matter of angle. Mites and splines are wonderful too. Thanks Dave.

Thefarmer, laughs, you are the third asking about the clamps. The clamps are form Fine tools in Germany, Dictum also have them, but they are with a less beautiful finger thingy, like for a winding toy (bought some by mistake and the look always makes me think grrrrrr, laughs - you can see both types on the pictures). Thank you.

Sylvain, Yes kind of quirky, in a wonderful way, the KONELIG HOFLEVERANDØR and extra cool you only see it, when the tray are taken up - smiles. I agree, we most often make things too thick and this makes the design suffer, this was why I never liked the first tray. The dimensions should fit the size and the need, that gives a natural beauty, a aesthetic ruled by nature, not by man. Laughs, *I would never put 17kg on a 8 mm thick shelf (especially if it is good wine).* I love the way you wrote that. Here in Denmark it's also quite difficult to get hold of wineboxes now.









I build a few tool cabinets out of wine boxes and love them, they always give a good talk also, when people see they are wine boxes, from the old stamps.
(In the post you can see more links).

MikeB_UK, Thank you Mike, I also think they are different, but a fit, like a good couple. Smiles, yes we are metric here in Europe.

Lew, Thanks Lew, it's always a joy to keep some of the original life, when possible. I were in doubt, if I should give some patina to the fresh cuts, but I think it's fine with the contrast here. If I regret I can always do it, it can be done with a little black tea and vinegar brew, then one will not see the difference. That's so cool to use the masons trowel, love that idea, might have to clean one of mine up and use for that now! Thank you dear Lew.

Best of my thoughts and thanks again,
Mads


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