# Buffing with brown paper bag?



## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Hey everyone,

I am about to put my last coat of minwax wipe on oil-based satin poly onto a cherry table, 4 coats in all, sanding to 320 in between. I typically have some dust nibs that the 320 sanding between coats takes care of no problem. In the past, after my last coat, I have knocked the nibs off with 0000 steel wool or quick touches with 1500 sandpaper. They both work ok, but I know I have read multiple comments that mention buffing out with a brown paper bag as a final buff. So my question is to you who do the paper bag method, how do you do it, and how long do you let your finish cure before buffing? Also, will it knock tiny little dust nibs out?

Never tried this method and I'd like to hear how it is done.

Thanks


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## TiggerWood (Jan 1, 2014)

I tried it by hand. It was like sanding with 10,000 grit. Didn't really work for me. I was hoping for something more around the 2,000 grit range.


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## Pezking7p (Nov 17, 2013)

I found it knocked off all the nibs I cared about. Just rub it til the nibs are gone. I didn't think it changed the look of the finish at all.


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## hookfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

I use a brown paper bag all of the time. I useally leave it dry for 24 hours. I have even used a piece of old cardboard box with good results.


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## stnich (May 24, 2010)

I have used the rag that I applied the wipe on poly with. I lay it out flat making sure that there are as few wrinkles as possible and let it dry/cure. Then use it to rub out the finish. I haven't done it in years but it worked well.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I usually wait until the last coat is just barely tacky to a fingertip

I grab an old T-shirt, and rub it HARD. Needing to generate a bit of heat with it. Polishes things up nicely.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

bandit571, good idea. We guys have tons of old tee shirts.


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## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

I've used paper bags and cardboard to buff after poly. Much like the other Dan (Pezking) I find they work well for dealing with nibs. Just make sure the finish has fully cured because oh man things can get ugly.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

I typically use #0000 steel wool, myself.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I also used steel wool, dipped in paste wax, then buff out the wax, once it sets, with a blue shop towel. With wipe on, which is pretty much all I do these days, I wait 24 hrs. With brush on, I would give it a few days.


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Awesome input guys. Just what I was hoping for. It's been about 18 hrs now, so I'll probably buff it tonight or tomorrow morning/afternoon.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

For lacquer I usually let it cure for a few days, not just 18-24 hours like some others.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

Corrugated cardboard is an abrasive. It took the paint off a freezer when we moved many years ago.


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## coachmancuso (Feb 10, 2013)

I use the brown bag for all of my last buffing. Wipe on poly I wait about 2 days and brush on poly I wait 7 days.. It has taken all my nubs off. It also does not do anything to the finish. When my orders from craft supply come they pack everything in brown paper, and I thank them each time for the free buffing supplies!


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## lblankenship (Aug 25, 2017)

Has anyone used this method with a painted surface before? If you try it on a semi-gloss interior paint would it dull the sheen?


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I use a brown paper bag as super fine sand paper all the time. I rub out sanding nibs left by the final finish coat. I haven't tried it but I expect the bag would do well for latex /acrylic paint after it has sufficiently cured.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I've used brown kraft paper or paper bags as dust nib knockers. But, it's always followed with Liberon #0000 and JPW for the final massage.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I use it all of the time, it works really well.


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## lblankenship (Aug 25, 2017)

Awesome, thanks guys!


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I use it way later. After I am happy the topcoat is dried, I use it to do my final rubs with wax. For topcoats that are hard dried. I am not sure you can beat steel wool to get the nibs off, and smooth things out. Maybe Abralon, TruCut…. Look at smoothing bowling balls, they are like glass.

Know the more you rub a lot of the topcoats they will shine up on you. So even a satin can look glossy, not bad if you want that, but if you want satin.

Whoever's product you use, go to their website, and see their recommendations. Most are similar, but they have a few differences.


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