# Base for table top is not flat, how can I fix this?



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

I've been working on this side table for my wife. It's my first piece of furniture so I've been learning a lot through trial and error. I finally got everything assembled and went to dry fit the top to the base. I had no illusions that my workmanship was square and true, but I thought the wood would be a bit forgiving and the screws could make everything "tight". I quickly realized there was no way my top would securely and attractively go on the base. The base braces are not flat, let alone level. So I'm left wondering what the best way to remedy this is. My instinct is to take a hand plane to the base braces. Is that what you think, any other ideas? I am not skilled with hand planing, this has giving me even more insentive to practice. That said, if there is another way I'm all ears.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Plane or sand the base till level and flat. Or sand the underside of the tops surface where it contacts the base, till top matches the base. a slow process but your inching closer.


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## sawdustdad (Dec 23, 2015)

Small gaps (1/8 inch or less) under the table top should not be a major concern. Be sure to fasten the top to allow for expansion/contraction. If the gaps are 1/4 inch or more, then you have two choices. Those thin frames will not allow for much planing to get the top surface flat, so I'd split the difference. do your best to remove the worst high spots on the frame, assemble to the top with a couple spacers if needed, then remove any frame twist by trimming the feet to get the table to sit level.

OK, one more idea. Float the top. Install a series of spacers on top of the frame, and mount the top to the spacers. This gives the illusion that the top is "floating" above the frame. Size the spacers to get the top level.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

I guess I take the road less traveled and use power tools.










.


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## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

It looks like the 4 legs are making contact with the top, if so and it's just the middle I wouldn't sweat that, but yeah sand or plane to make it flat
This is why it's important to start with a jointed edge, but again this is not a critical spot


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## eflanders (May 2, 2013)

Travis: table tops tend to move with humidity changes. This is why they should be fastened with a movement aspect to them such as slotted screw blocks. Research table top fastening methods accordingly. Now to answer your direct question: Check for square by measuring from diagonal corners. Measure from the right rear to the left front an compare that measurement to your measurement from the opposite corner. If they are exactly the same, you are square. For level, place the table onto a flat surface. Check that surface for level then compare it against a level measurement of the table. Adjust as needed. Do the same with the table top. Once your top is flat, place it onto the legs without fastening. Adjust gaps by planing or sanding the braces with the realization that any major gap changes will affect level.
Good luck, have fun and by doing, you are learning!


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Thanks for the help all!

The base did start out flat, but a series of sanding steps resulted in the current state of affairs. The joints between the legs and the braces were a touch proud, and the braces are joined in the center with a half lap joint. I cut the half lap before I sanded, so then after sanding the half laps were no longer flush. So I sanded to make the leg-brace joints flush, and to make the half laps flush. I started sanding by hand with a sanding block to help keep things flat, but that took too long so I switched to the ROS. I thought i was keeping that flat but apparently I wasn't and I introduced some twist and curves, as seen below.










I do have figure 8 fasteners to allow for wood movement once I actually attach the top. Since sanding is what got me into this mess, I am reluctant to sand my way out of it. I might try and take a hand plane to it. Even if I don't get it perfect, I think I could get it closer with minimal wood loss. The spacers are an interesting idea. I've never thought about floating the top. I will probably go that route if I can't flatten this some.

I don't think any of the gaps are more than 1/8", but neither wood feels like it has any flex in it. I'm afraid if I tried to attach it as is, it will be insecure and ugly.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

I wonder if a card scraper would work for this? Maybe be a bit easier and run less risk of shaving too much off?


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I guess I take the road less traveled and use power tools.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Love that picture, thanks for the laugh!


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## LittleShaver (Sep 14, 2016)

I'd leave it alone. Who actually looks at the underside of the table anyway? As long as the top sits steady on the legs and you attach with your figure 8's to allow for movement, you should be good to go.

If you look at some old pieces, you'll find that surfaces not seen were left pretty rough. The lesson I learned was to not waste time and effort on things that don't really matter.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Is that a triangular table?

You could turn it into a floating table by using some pegs to elevate the top.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I d leave it alone. Who actually looks at the underside of the table anyway? As long as the top sits steady on the legs and you attach with your figure 8 s to allow for movement, you should be good to go.
> 
> If you look at some old pieces, you ll find that surfaces not seen were left pretty rough. The lesson I learned was to not waste time and effort on things that don t really matter.
> 
> - LittleShaver


I wish it did sit steady. The picture is a little misleading as it looks like it's sitting on all 4 legs. In fact, it is sitting on 3, which leads me to believe something needs to be done.



> Is that a triangular table?
> 
> You could turn it into a floating table by using some pegs to elevate the top.


The top is a hexagon and the 4 legs are connected to each other at top and bottom by "+" shaped support pieces. Someone earlier in this thread mentioned making it a floating top. I need to research that more as I don't think I've seen that before.


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