# Edge banding MDF top



## sry (Jul 9, 2008)

I'm in the process of building a version of the FWW Getting Started in Woodworking bench and want to modify it a little by wrapping hardwood around the MDF top (3/4" MDF doubled up into a 1 1/2" top). Looking for advice from the forum experts about how to go about this.

I'm thinking right now of just routing the edge of the top into a tongue and grooving my hardwood banding material to match. Am I on the right track, or does somebody out there have any better ideas?

I should point out that this is my first woodworking project, and my skills and tool collection are still growing…


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## Phishead (Jan 9, 2008)

I think that will work. On my Torsion Box I screwed my edging to the MDF and plugged the holes with a contrasting wood.


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

Sry,

Knickknack posted a small oak table project and he provided an excellent answer to your question: it's about 1/2 way down the post. This may be what you are describing. If all else fails, rabbet the harwood banding, the glue the banding to the mdf.

Goodluck!


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## sry (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks guys. I'll try it out and post the results when I post the project.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

You could use biscuits and glue…will help align everything and the glue will make it stay.


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## sry (Jul 9, 2008)

I've successfully applied a strip of hardwood around the edge of my MDF top, and intentionally left it a little proud of the surface, thinking I could trim it flush a little later.

My new question is: what's the best tool for the job? It seems like a larger job than my little block plane should handle, so maybe a larger plane like a #4?


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## motthunter (Dec 31, 2007)

mdf is made from sawdust and glue. Edgebanding it is easy as can be as glue sticks well to glue. Fasteners like brads help hold it till the glue dries, but if you clamp well, even that may be unnecessary.


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## motthunter (Dec 31, 2007)

Steve, to flush trim, you can use a flush trim bit on your router.. Or you can use a plane if you want to do it by hand. There are also many router table set ups that can help do this.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

ya you could use a flush bit on a router. might get a bit hairy with the bit out in the open and everything. if the edgebanding is 3/4" you could use a block plane for a #4 or #5, 6, 7, 8. really any plane. i would use a #4 though because a #7, 8 might get a bit tiring


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

Steve, how did this turn out? I am at this exact stage on the same exact bench and am wondering the exact same thing


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## sry (Jul 9, 2008)

Dave,
I ended up just sanding to get the edge flush with the mdf top. There was only something like 1/32" difference. Didn't take very long. When I do it again though, I'll probably skip the tongue and groove setup, because as mott points out, it should stick really well without.
If you look at my projects, both my workbench and drill press cart have the same kind of top, and both have taken quite a beating and held up great.
Good luck,

-Steve


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## swdst (May 31, 2015)

Im at the same point on a router table, only i laminated the top and bottom with formica to keep moisture out, humid as all get out here. I'm getting ready to edge band with red oak, and box joint the corners. Would i be better off with titebond ll, or the contact cement i used for the laminate. I haven't done much work with mdf, and still teaching myself he skills needed, so i apologise if this sounds like a silly question


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## sry (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi swdst,
Normal PVA glue (ie Titebond) should work nicely when joining MDF with solid wood. Just get a good coat and use lots of clamps.

-Steve


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I hope it works out for you.

I put a piece of 3/4 hardwood and used the MDF screws made by Spax then plugged the holes.

I wouldn't trust MDF edges to hold glue very well. Same problem as endgrain soaks up glue.

You'll find out the first time you drop something heavy on the edge.

I used a block plane to flush it up.


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## swdst (May 31, 2015)

Hey thanks guys, I'm not opposed to using screws, just like the clean look without, i may go with some thicker stock and plug them with contrasting wood, maybe walnut, unless i can match the grain with some corresponding red oak. Any thoughts on the jessem/incra router lifts? Or are they overpriced?


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I used screws and plugs on mine.


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## swdst (May 31, 2015)

Went with rabbet joints, titebond, screws and plugs. Things got put on hold for a bit as my daughter decided to arrive in this world three weeks early.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

When I built my top (3 layers of MDF + 1 layer of hardboard), I didn't bother trying for perfection. I left it proud and flush trimmed it. The 2.5" let me flush trim easily with my router (DW618).

I understand you have a thinner profile to work with, but if you have a smaller trim router (e.g. Bosch Colt or Dewalt DW611), this technique may work for you.


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## swdst (May 31, 2015)

Flush trimming wasn't an issue, and the edge banding went well also thanks to some wekl recieved advice from here.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Congratulations.

What better reason to stop work!!

Hope all is well.


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## swdst (May 31, 2015)

Hey thanks, yeah, theres worse reasons to put a project on hold


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

Hello all; first post - I'm in the middle of building a multi-purpose rolling outfeed / assembly table I hope to share pictures of soon. I laminated 7/8" plywood and 1/2" mdf for the top, and edge banding oak strips about 3/8" thick. Gluing and clamping with cauls, flush trimming top and bottom.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> Hello all; first post - I m in the middle of building a multi-purpose rolling outfeed / assembly table I hope to share pictures of soon. I laminated 7/8" plywood and 1/2" mdf for the top, and edge banding oak strips about 3/8" thick. Gluing and clamping with cauls, flush trimming top and bottom.
> 
> - mtnwalton


Start your own thread, instead of posting in the middle of someone else's.


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

> Hello all; first post - I m in the middle of building a multi-purpose rolling outfeed / assembly table I hope to share pictures of soon. I laminated 7/8" plywood and 1/2" mdf for the top, and edge banding oak strips about 3/8" thick. Gluing and clamping with cauls, flush trimming top and bottom.
> 
> - mtnwalton
> Start your own thread, instead of posting in the middle of someone else s.
> ...


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