# What Does Your Dream Toolbox Look Like?



## RGtools

The toolbox is a deeply personal choice. I have seen hundreds of different styles and variations. Some people prefer to store all their tools on the wall and live in there own toolbox.

For me the "traditional" English chest is the winner. I love the way it looks and works. More on that later…










In the interest of kicking off a discussion about the thing in your shop that rates second only to your workbench:

*How do you store your tools?
What do you make your toolbox out of?
What do you think is worth putting in your toolbox?

And perhaps most importantly…why?*


----------



## BrandonW

I'm looking forward to this thread, Ryan. I was actually thinking of starting a similar one myself, but didn't get around to it, so I'm glad you did.

I love the traditional English tool chest and yours (that is yours in the photos, right?) is an excellent example. For my own situation, I'm working on a Dutch style tool chest, as you know, and have only been using it for about a week. So far I really love working from it. Before my tools were typically in another room and were a bit disorganized (like my thoughts). But now, having the tool chest, there's a nice sense of satisfaction and permanence. Each tool has its spot, which also gives me more motivation for staying organized because when something isn't put away, then something's amiss.










I had considered building a wall cabinet since I've really liked a lot of the ones that I've seen on the site here, but I didn't have a good, accessible spot on the wall. Here's a wall cabinet posted here on LJ that I think is really sweet:










[Link]


----------



## RGtools

That's funny Brandon, your Dutch Chest is what got me thinking about this so I am glad you are the first post. you did an awesome job parsing out the space for your tools by the way.

That is my-currently incomplete-English Chest. I am working on tills now:


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I like most everything ol Schwarzy does, but he lost me with the tool chest. I can see why somebody who travels often with their tools, as he does, would want a chest. But i have no desire to cram em all in a chest, then bend over all day accessing them. That beings said, I have no beef with anybody who does like these chests. I like some different things, some of them I can't tell you why. 
Anyway, I'm kicking around a big till/bench combo. I want them all out for easy access. Kind of like this, but nicer looking. I've seen some nice setups in books but I can never find links to those pics.


----------



## richardwootton

I haven't built a tool chest yet, but I'm looking forward to gaining some inspiration from this thread.


----------



## RGtools

Something like this Red?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Jeepers, I've died went to LN heaven….lol. Man alive. Are those yours RG?

I'm still sorting it out. I'm going to mount it above a joinery bench, so I don't want it to come off the wall so far. The longer planes may have to go on a shelf in the joinery bench below. But a til above for smaller planes, chisels, rasps etc. Thinking some white oak and walnut like my bench.


----------



## JayT

I'll take this one. Who's buying?


----------



## BrandonW

JayT, that Walnut wall cabinet is sweet!


----------



## JayT

Yes, Brandon, it is. <sigh> Too bad I will never own anything close to that. What is the dollar equivalent of 10k British Pounds, plus shipping and assorted taxes?

I plan to build a wall cabinet later this year, but it is going to be reclaimed clear pine from our kitchen demo and remodel. My shop is too small for a chest and also because it is small, there is nowhere more than a couple steps from the wall the cabinet will go on.

Here is another of my favorites that has been posted on LJ before


----------



## donwilwol

of all the floor chest, I think Brandon W's is the best I've seen. I just can't seem to figure a way to work a floor model into my style of working. (or playing as my wife calls it)

As for wall mounts, its hard to image a really nice wall cabinet making it to my shop. I change tools to often. I also go through spells were I use certain tools a lot, then they get shoved away for a while.

And luckily, I like it that way.


----------



## wormil

My idea was a version of the small Dutch chest on a rolling stand so I'm not stooping over and can easily move it out of the way. A wall cabinet is a swell idea but my walls are pretty crowded already.


----------



## RGtools

*Red* I wish those were mine, but alas they are not. My collection is more of a hodgepodge of good vintage, solid new makes, and the occasional shop made tool. I just remembered the picture from the days that I was trying to figure out what type of storage I wanted.

Open storage is great, and for the money it is hard to beat a 2'x'4 piece of 3/4" plywood. Once you have that up you can start mounting a ton of tools to that in a hurry.

This is how I started:










Being able to see all those tools ready to go is a nice feeling and I have seen several shops where the toolbox is the shop…

Dan's shop comes to mind (sorry for the small picture, I could not get the big shot linked in)










So why did I opt for a tool-chest over this?

I'll answer that tomorrow after I have dealt with my cat, who has decided to be a raging pain.


----------



## roman

an unabated source of wood


----------



## balidoug

Great forum idea, Ryan. I'll get back to you in a few months.


----------



## RGtools

*Moron*, you have a gift for double entendre that never ceases to delight.

And yet again I get hauled off the computer before I can answer my self posed question.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

The toolbox IS the shop….I like that;-)


----------



## RGtools

The primary reason for opting for any style of enclosed space for a toolbox, was that I was buying better and better tools, and I wanted a better place to keep them safe. When you think about it a decent set of hand-tools is a considerable investment and leaving them out (at least in my case) leaves them prone to damage and rust.

This picture encapsulates the moment I decided I wanted a BOX of some sort for my tools.










But it was more than that, I wanted to be able to look at a box and say "everything I need to build what I want is in there". I have more drawn out reasons for opting for the English Chest (though had I had any knowledge of it when I finally made up my mind, the dutch would have been a contender) but really those are practical reasons having to do with usable wall space VS floor space in my shop. The important part, was that at of the end of the day, my tools had a nice home of their own.

I just wish I was done with it.


----------



## Woodmaster1

I love the wall cabinets. Someday I will have to build one and get my tools out of tubs.


----------



## TravisH

I definitely want to do wall cabinet soon. I have most things hung up on the wall but need something more devoted to planes, chisels, etc..


----------



## Boatman53

Still working on mine, but maybe can add some pictures here next week sometime.
Jim


----------



## Airframer

This thread cannot exist without a mention of the Studley… Yes.. eventually I would like to design soemthing like this for my tools. Might be a few years from now though lol…


----------



## mochoa

Here is mine that I've never completely finished. It needs more tool holders and I'm going to rip out the the shelves and put in a vertical till. It has outgown my hand plane collection.


















The best part was being able to fire the old peg board. I made that decisoin after a sqare fell off and dented a table I was making.


----------



## RGtools

*Airframer* The lack of Studley inthe original body of the post should be amended. I will correct now.

EDIT: Done. Studley is where he belongs.


----------



## RGtools

*Mauricio*. I love the drawers on your cabinet. The sizing looks perfect for odd things like drill bits and whatnot. You are never quite done with a toolbox until you are done buying tools. For me that is another point for the English chest, the tools are not really pigeonholed anywhere, so it is easy to restructure.


----------



## mochoa

Thanks Ryan. And, your right, efficent use of space is much easier in a tool chest.

I prefer wall cabinets to tool chest, mostly it works better for my shop situation, namely that big wall. But you really have to get creative with tool holders and internal doors to make sure your not wasting space. I think that is why the Studley chest seems so complex.

In a chest a lot of stuff can just sit in a box or a shelf which is much easier.


----------



## terryR

Ryan, awesome thread! Toolboxes are soooo important once you get past collecting cheap tools. Your tool chest has inspired me to make one…maybe. Still weighing the pros and cons of wall mounted vs. free standing. At the present, all my shop walls are steel, so a big honkimg free-standing toolchest near the bench is my dream.

Where's DanK? Didn't he post a sketchup model of a huge free standing lazy susan tool chest? THAT seems ideal for my shop…5 or 6 sides…tons of shelves and drawers…and it rotates, yeah right!  But, if you are to dream, you may as well dream BIG…


----------



## Airframer

I have been toying with the idea of making a free standing tool box but design it to stand in a similar fashion as a camping chuck box. It just seems like one of those could easily translate into a nice toolbox of some sort.


----------



## RGtools

*TerryR,* dreaming big is important. I think the argument (If you can call it that) between free standing VS wall mounted really does depend on your shop set up. It seems like nobody has both wall space and floor space (kind of odd if you think about that too long).

*Airframer* Camping Chuck Box? What mystery do you speak of?


----------



## DanKrager

Yes I did post a tool box design in my blog here:
http://lumberjocks.com/DanKrager/blog/34568
I'm still dreaming about it, trying to decide what kind of "door" to put on it that won't get in the way so much. I came across a "gull wing" door that looks real interesting. Trying to figure out how to work that into the Gerstner style framing.
No lazy susan here, just a cart with four swivel casters. A heavy susan could work though.

DanK


----------



## Airframer

*RG* It is a portable kitchen in a box that has removable legs that typically store inside the box for ease of travel. I used one a lot when I was in the Boy Scouts a million years ago and it has stuck in my head as a possible tool box for a while now.

Here are a couple examples:










source: Two Patrol Boxes

And a couple LJ projects



And


----------



## CL810

I could use the thinking of this esteemed group. I'm currently planning to put a full width drawer in the tool chest I'm building. But I'm wondering if a drawer that is 3" high and 28" across is wise. Should I use two drawers instead?


----------



## DanKrager

CL810, think of how much weight will be in the drawer, if not at first, then over time. You know how things continually get jammed in there until it barely closes. Unless the bottom of your drawer is 3/4" thick, then definitely two drawers or at least a stiffener rib in the middle. Even then I wouldn't go less than 1/2" for the bottom. If you were to egg crate it with several ribs to which the bottom can be thoroughly secured (as in glued and screwed), then perhaps thinner might last. 
DanK


----------



## RGtools

*CL810* I would also think about making the drawer more shallow. One deep drawer somewhere is good, but the rest of your storage should be shallow to discourage stacking tool on top of one another. Perhaps 3 drawers, on deep and two shallow would divide the space nicely.

Would this be accessible on the outside of the chest (presumably on the bottom)?


----------



## CL810

Thanks for the comments!

*DanK* - I want a half inch thick bottom and I came to the same conclusion - that I needed a rib or two but I have never used a rib before and wasn't sure that would reinforce it enough.

*RG* - Yes the drawer will be accessible from the outside on the bottom. With a half inch bottom board the effective depth of the drawer will be no more than 2.25". I struggled with the dimensions for exactly the reasons you state.

I went with this size thinking if I ever need the deeper drawer it will be there vs needing it and it not being available. A pair of drawers above one wide drawer is very appealing…..

I think I better sleep on it some more.


----------



## CL810

*Airframer* - man oh man that takes me back to my days as a Scoutmaster! Chuck boxes are incredibly utilitarian.


----------



## RGtools

I wanted Tom Fidgen's toolchest for a VERY long time.


----------



## wormil

I've been thinking of either a 2 part door that when closed would be the top and front then fold up completely out of the way; or maybe a tambour door. Both have disadvantages though.

CL810, depends on what you want to put in the drawer. I don't like them much except for small stuff and then I want the drawer shallow. They tend to collect "miscellaneous" and there is nothing worse than layers of crap piled inside a drawer.


----------



## mochoa

This is a temporary fix, its not in a box either but with my new LN Saw I ran out of shelf space for my backsaws in my cabinet. I did buy some plywood for a future permanent fix though.










This reminds me, I need to flip the page on my HPOYD calendar.


----------



## RGtools

That's a good temp fix. I want to do something similar next to my bench once my chest is done. Something I can store chisels and various items temporarally while I am working.

How do you like the veritas Carcass saw in comparasin to the LN? I am trying to restore an old simonds now, but I think it might have given up the ghost and theat might work as a good backup plan.


----------



## mochoa

I actually haven't tried the DT saw yet. LOL.

I waited over a month to get it from Highland Woodworking after the LN Hand tool event, I'm trying to finish up a small project now and then I'll find an excuse to use it. Maybe one of those bench boxes you talked about.


----------



## mochoa

Oh I love my Veritas saws by the way, they work great. I personally dont find them ugly and they fit my had well.


----------



## bondogaposis

I would split it, the wider the drawer the greater the tendency to bind in the opening. Ultimately it depends on what you want to put in it.


----------



## RGtools

OK that's it. I have floundered back and forth since the beginging of my build.

Paint or not to paint? I can't freaking decide to save my life.


----------



## theoldfart

I thought we agreed no paint! Naked wood forever, ok maybe Danish oil


----------



## donwilwol

You know how much I hate pant, but I think I'd make an exception. This may need to be painted.

Wait….who typed that?


----------



## BrandonW

Nothing wrong with painting it, if that's what you're going for.


----------



## mochoa

Its painted on the outside and unpainted on the inside, you get the best of both worlds.


----------



## CL810

It's started but I"m out of town for a week.


----------



## BrandonW

Nice Cl810. I'm interested in seeing yours come together.


----------



## RGtools

Nice choice on going with dovetails as opposed to nails (though there is something very satisfying about driving a cut nail home….and getting a project done extremely fast).

The thing about the paint is I have decided to paint it and not to paint it about 15 times. On the one hand, the wood itself is so pretty, not that I selected it to be that way, it just turned out that way.










On the other hand, it's a tool chest and it's going to be abused to a certain extent, I like the idea of the paint wearing in certain spots. Also, it will help cover some of the things that would bother me if I left them as is in a natural piece. The interior of the chest is pretty flawless, but the trim would need a bit of finessing to be ready for a clear finish.

But the wood is so pretty.

Oh well, at least I have something to do while I make up my mind…again.


----------



## DanKrager

RG, why don't you wipe on a coat of paint and wipe it off leaving the color behind in the wood so that the grain is still visible? Using the paint like a stain is effective. You can clear coat or not. A flat paint leaves a dull, worn look that you might find interesting.
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

RG- I'd be wrestling with the same thing when looking at that grain. I have liked the look of milk paint when I see it in the mags, but I always chicken out and use danish oil on my shop stuff. Or roly if its gonna take a beating.

Hope this forum is alive and kickin in a couple months when I start my toolbox/till project. It's getting bigger and more elaborate in my head as the days go by. I could probably use some feedback when I get rollin.


----------



## mochoa

Wow its looking good CL, it looks really nice in poplar. Wait weren't you in the middle of another tool chest build with like 100 dovetails?

Ryan, I say paint it. Otherwise it will look like a blanket chest. You will still be able to see the wood on the inside.


----------



## donwilwol

yea, but it would be a shame to hide all those nice dovetails!!


----------



## CL810

Mauricio - no that was a blanket chest.


----------



## RGtools

I guess I should share my possible color scheme.

Yes, the interior remains natural. The only finish I would consider there is shellac, since it smells so nice, but I will most likely leave that natural. The exterior, I was planing on painting with a few coats of GoldenRod milk paint.










Over that, I was thinking a dark paint (black, super dark green or blue), latex with a flat finish (Schwarz's chest is too shiny for my taste) kind of like what Dan suggested. What I like about this is the way the colors will bleed through over the years and the scheme highlights the brass a bit.

I can't leave it natural like my bench, I use oil stones so I need something to avoid the black marks that will eventually lead to on the lid. BLO is out because in my experience Poplar does not really take that well to it. What finish out there works with poplar, and is glue and oil resistant?


----------



## CL810

I really like your idea for painting RG. I planned to paint mine from the beginning but had not thought about the two colors. Hope you're not offended if I hitch hike on that idea.


----------



## BrandonW

Sounds good, RG. And yes, the smell of shellac is wonderful.


----------



## BrandonW

So I've been thinking about my tool chest lately and have been considering adding one or more drawers to the current design. The issue is that it's just a bit too low to see all the way in there-this would be different if I had a smaller version that could sit on a bench, but there's no way on earth that's happening with this design. Here's the current tool chest:










Right now there's a shelf which is good for holding tools like mallets and saws, and then there's the bigger space below it. So, should I make the top space into a drawer and the bottom space into a drawer?










Please forgive my crude drawings, I'm not on my desktop with Photoshop. The other option would be for side-by-side drawers:










Or some combination of the two? The current width of the inside of the tool chest is 31" if that helps. I don't recall the exact heights of the those too spaces off hand and I'm not at home to measure them, but I'd guess about 3.5" for the top and 11" for the bottom. If I add drawers, are we talking metal slides or something else? I want to be faithful to the style of tool chest and the type of tools in it, but at the same time I'm looking to add a little more functionality.


----------



## RGtools

I would go with more smaller drawers. The second drawing is a bit more on point to me, but if I could I would figure our how to add more shallow drawers on one side and just have one deep drawer. Stuff can stack up pretty fast and you can get to a point where you have to dig out 3 things just to get one out, and then work on stacking them back up to put things where they once were.

Metal Slides would be easier after the fact than a wood to wood fit, but I would go with ones that mount on the underside of the drawer so I did not have to look at them.










My camera is making me crazy. It's eating my best video.

Resawing more oak…only two more resaw's left in this chest, thank god.


----------



## BrandonW

Ryan, you're a better man than me with all that resawing by hand.

One of the issues with my tool chest, you'll notice, is that on the bottom drawer I keep larger hand planes. Thus, another option could be to have a larger drawer with dividers in it. Just thinking out loud.


----------



## donwilwol

I wonder if a swing out door would work better. Something like a potatoes bin has. Hinge the door on the bottom, with an attached bottom on the door? Same as you, just thinking out loud….....


----------



## BrandonW

Don, you're talking about doors like this, right?



I think that's an appealing idea, but I'd have to figure out a good way to overcome the obstacle of tools moving around too much when opening and closing the doors.


----------



## bbasiaga

My ideal toolbox would be something like the rack of guns in the 'construct' in the first Matrix movie. A mere thought and the rack indexes to the tool of my desire. I have searched the projects on this forum extensively, but it doesn't seem like anyone has done this yet. 

Until then its Tupperware containers, a tool caddy on 5gal bucket, nd a couple of drawers for me.

-Brian


----------



## donwilwol

Brandon, I was thinking about adding some kind of spacers. Something to hold them n place.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I heard there were folks dissing paint in this thread. Is this true, and for the Love of Pete, why??


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty, I think it was theoldfart in post #44. You know me, I love me some paint.


----------



## DanKrager

Doesn't Ryan qualify for some major galootness for doing that resawing by hand?
DanK


----------



## BrandonW

Doesn't Ryan qualify for some major galootness for doing that resawing by hand?

If it were me, I would have done it on the band saw, clamped it back together, stick my ripsaw in there, then posed like Ryan, trying to convince everyone I did it by hand. Of course, no one would believe me.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Seriou scores within the Galoot Index for RG.


----------



## mochoa

I like the idea of the small drawers, especially if they are the full extension kind, that would be cool. Dont know if there is much advantage to the bottom large drawers though. Do you think they will increase capacity?


----------



## wormil

Don't do it Brandon!! Don't ruin a perfectly good tool chest with drawers, aaghh!!


----------



## RGtools

If it were me, I would have done it on the band saw, clamped it back together, stick my ripsaw in there, then posed like Ryan, trying to convince everyone I did it by hand. Of course, no one would believe me.

A few more shots for authenticity sake.



















FYI, the tool I dream of owning right now.










Now, back to Brandon's Drawers. Don has the right idea with the tilt drawer. ECE installed one on their workbench and it can be quite orderly. Plus it would be easy to retrofit, while giving you an authentic feel.



















*Smitty*, not dissing paint. Just can't decide to do it or not. I am leaning toward getting it done though just for repair-ability sake.

*Brian*, when you find that tool box maker, will you give me their number?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Building the drawer / tills for the Refurb Chest…


----------



## mochoa

Smitty with the stylish chopping block.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

These half blinds are joining the sides to the back. Much thinner material make up the fronts and doing half blinds in that stuff is going to be fun.

Baseline got away from me in a place on this piece, but overall not bad.


----------



## RGtools

^good enough for a toolbox. That restore of yours is going to be nice.


----------



## BrandonW

Anyone got any ideas or plans on how to construct the potato bin? I've got a couple of ideas, but I'd like not to reinvent the wheel if possible.


----------



## RGtools

The only thing I know is that the bin sides neet to be curved to avoid the top of the opening as it tilts out.


----------



## bladedust

You guys need to look at this beauty done by Tyvekboy. A true piece of art.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/77123


----------



## RGtools

Worth embedding I think. That toolbox keeps going and going.



I might finish mine this weekend or the next now…I can't wait.


----------



## BrandonW

Keep us posted on yours, Ryan. I decided to go with a couple of drawers on mine in order to maximize the storage space. I've already got one made, which rides on wooden slides. I think it will work out nicely.


----------



## mtenterprises

If you cannot lift it and move it of what use is it. Some day, maybe not in your life time it will have to be moved and taking the tools out of it defeats the purpose of keeping the tools safe. Opt for several boxes of tool collections. Like one for planes, one for lathe chisels, one for measuring tools, one for tools you use most of the time at least then they can contain the tools and keep them safe while not giving someone a hernia.
MIKE


----------



## mochoa

Bladedust, I got to meet Tyvekboy at my local Rockler the other day. Very nice guy, he was telling me he was on LJ and was telling me about his cabinet. I was like, man I'm pretty sure I've seen that cabinet. Sure enough I had it in my favorites! Pretty funny. That cabinet is really amazing.


----------



## RGtools

I have had almost no shop time in the past two weeks, and what little I have had I spent on the gauge for the swap, and general shop organization. I only have two trays to build; the components are all at their rough dimensions so getting them ready is a few hours at most. The joinery goes pretty quick in the half inch stock.

After that, paint.

*mtenterprises* would you mind sharing some of your boxes with us?

I can still lift my tool-chest even with the tools I have in it. It only takes two people because it is awkward. I figure this though: If I have to move the chest, I am also moving my workbench…this means I am buying a good friend a couple of beers to help me.

*Brandon*, I am glad you went with the wood slides, some idiot talking about putting metal slides (me) needed to be ignored.


----------



## donwilwol

so I should ask for the aluminum slide back?


----------



## BrandonW

Mtenterprises: I would disagree with you. I'd rather have one heavy, but easily movable tool chest, than five or six tool boxes around the place. Yes, I will move someday, but since it's on wheels it can easily go up a ramp into a truck. And what Ryan said about the workbench in addition to all the other heavy tools such as the table saw, jointer, lathe (mine weighs a ton), etc.

Ryan, I went to HD to buy a nice metal slide, but the smallest they had was 14" and my tool chest is 13.5" deep. I just said eff it and made wooden ones for it.

Don, yes, your aluminum slide is in the mail.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Brandon- +1 your on the right track with drawers and wood slides. But then again, it's your darn tool box. I only needs to please you;-)

Still gathering ideas for my build. As I've said, the shop WILL be the toolbox. Sawy this french cleat system, and light went off.


----------



## BrandonW

Red: I only needs to please you;-)

Was that a Freudian slip?

I like the french cleat idea, although in my situation I just don't have the wall space to do something like that.


----------



## bladedust

Mauricio, if you think the pictures are impressive, you should see it in person. He was kind enough to open his home to me and we spent a couple of hours together.

He showed me his work and explained how he made the projects while I spent most of the time just was drooling. That is one creative and talented guy.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That was a funny typo. Often I'm typing with a toddler pulling on my leg. That's my excuse anyway.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Nice thread guys. Here is a tool chest that I have been working on for the last few weeks. All is complete except for final sand, finish, and drawer liner (have some thin cork matting for that). Still not sure if I should add any color to it. Suggestions?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Wow. That is sharp. I would just use some danish oil or something to highlight the grain. And a clear coat if you want more durability.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Thanks Red. That's what I was thinking. I'll do a couple of test scraps. Want to finish it this weekend so I can get to the gauge swap project. By the way, maple pulls to match the drawer sides? Or do you think something darker would look good?


----------



## waho6o9

Danish oil and or shellac, I wouldn't darken it.

Maple pulls for contrast should suffice. I like the test scrap idea, and 
maybe post some different combos and we'll see which one rocks.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

If it were mine, I would go with a couple coats of danish oil on everything(drawers and inside). Wait a couple days, and then some light wipe-on poly coats on just the exterior. 
For pulls, test and see what you like. But I lean towards darker. My 2 cents;-) Show us when your done.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Thanks guys. I'll post pics when I get it finished.


----------



## RGtools

*Hammerthumb,* nice looking work you have there, I want to build something similar for my machining tools. I agree with red that your piece should just have a finish that makes the grain pop.

As far as the pulls, what design are you thinking? If I was going with a shaker style pull I would have to use wenge (or ebony if I could scrounge some). But then again cherry knobs that closely match could have a pretty sophisticated feel too.

I would not finish the inside with oil though, the smell sticks around for a long time. I would use simple wipe on shellac if anything.


----------



## mochoa

Hammerthumb, that chest is amazing. I think its screaming out for brass hardware if you have the budget for it. Check out the low profile pulls on this cabinet.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Thanks Mauricio. Had not even considered brass pulls. Now that you mention it, I'll have to hold a couple up and see what it looks like.


----------



## DaddyZ

I Spy a Mini Shoulder !!


----------



## RGtools

The low profile pulls are great. and that chest if very clean and organized.

But,

I have never understood putting planes in the back of the chest. They are so integral to what I do that I want them to be an easy grab (says the guy who's planes are in the bottom of his chest…perhaps I have issues). I have a power tool chest that is built in much the same way and my cordless drill has to go in the back. I constantly find myself having to open all four doors to get to the drill. I should post a picture of that chest here as it is still kind of handy.


----------



## CL810

The hinges I purchased did not come with matching screws. I used a citric acid bath to strip the zinc. I read about this in a Chris Schwarz blog.

Before and after:


















One thing I learned is zinc is not the same from one screw batch to another. My test (first photo) came out perfect so I thought that was easy enough! Off to get the screws I needed. I had to go to two different hardware stores to get enough. None came out the same!

A lot of talk about pulls lately. How do you like these?;-)









Progress is coming slowly.


----------



## mochoa

CL I saw that blog and I will have to try that one day. Sweet pulls man, and they fold out of the way which is nice.


----------



## RGtools

You could at least upgrade to leather…

Chemical treatment on hardware has always interested me, so thanks for sharing.

This chest made my hear go pitter patter, but the price is not right and it's several hours away.










Thoughts?


----------



## donwilwol

seems pricey, even with the tools. The tools didn't look like anything special.


----------



## BrandonW

The tools didn't look like anything special.

Um… did you not see the Radi-plane?

That is a pretty sweet tool chest, though, love the worn look on it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

The price is wayyy not right, and Don is right about the tools (radi-plane aside, of course).


----------



## DaddyZ

Ready Made Collection, Price - Looking for a sucker !!!


----------



## carguy460

Can someone direct me to "radi-plane"? I'm confused…

EDIT: Nevermind…found it…what is it for?


----------



## AnthonyReed

Here you go Jason:


----------



## BrandonW

The Radi-plane was one of the tools in the chest. It's a cheap (but could be useful) plane that's made for softening the sharp corners on wood. I was pretty much joking when I brought it up:


----------



## BrandonW

Tony beat me to it.


----------



## AnthonyReed

But your skills are superior.


----------



## carguy460

Thanks guys, I learned something today!


----------



## DaddyZ

It is a very nice chest though.


----------



## RGtools

I'm still trying to figure out how it's a patternmakers chest when I do not see a single patternmaker's chisel. Shame.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Yes, but there is a plumb-bob … It is always nice to have a plumb pattern.


----------



## RGtools

Ok, I am curious what you guys think would be a good price on a chest like that?


----------



## donwilwol

I can buy that chest all day long here in the north east for $200-$500. Prices start to rise when you start seeing more expensive woods. Mahogany would be $1500.


----------



## DaddyZ

I was thinking $ 150 ish


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I'd love to have those northeast prices. That would go a lot more than a couple hundred bucks around here. A guy can go months without even seeing a handplane on craigslist around here.


----------



## donwilwol

I've never bought anything off craigs list. Its mostly construction type equipment around here and hand tool prices are ridicules.


----------



## Tugboater78

Last time i searched for hand tools on CL around here i got one listing, apicture of a guy in a skirt, no shirt, with pipi longstocking hair, waving with one hand and a lollipop in another…. j/k but yeah..thats basically it though.


----------



## RGtools

Don. I would love prices like that. good stuff rarely make it this way, so it's hard to find. Oddly there are some things I can get in this side of the world (saw vises and good saws are pretty easy and cheap over here, for instance). But I just wanted to thank you for reaffirming my belief that "ridicules" is a real word, despite the way word forces you to spell it…(I have shunned the word on this forum for that reason).

The chest does make me think I am doing the right thing with paint, it ages very gracefully that way.


----------



## CL810

Question - Glued up a panel that will be the lid of my toolbox. Has about a 1/4" of twist in it. I'm planning on bread boarding the panel. Will that correct the twist?


----------



## Boatman53

CL… I do not think it will correct a twist. Breadboard ends will keep it from cupping but that is about it. If there is a skirt type frame that it goes in that will help. Sorry for the bad news. I do not know how to correct twist in a glued up flat panel.
Jim


----------



## RGtools

I think you would have to do a whole frame if you were going to try to force alignment with an assembly. That being said 1/4" is a lot of forcing. Can we perchance see a pic of the debacle you are in?


----------



## DanKrager

CL810, The only way I know to correct a twist in a glued up panel is to rip the glue joints out and start over. You may be able to determine where the twist starts and work from there over. If it twisted after glue up and clamp removal, I would consider reversing some of the pieces. 
Good luck.
DanK


----------



## wormil

If the twist happened after glue up you could wait a few days and plane it flat.


----------



## CL810

Thanks for the input. Going to look at it tomorrow and regroup.


----------



## mochoa

CL can you spare the thickness to plane it flat? I'm guessing not.

I would try to straighten it out using moisture, a heat gun and clamps. I tried this on the back of my tool well and I got some of the bend out.

I got the idea from some Japanese woodworking videos Mads posted in a blog once. The Japanese put the boards over fire and then manually twist them to get most of it out. I think they can get away with this because their boards are air dried outside (uncovered). I'll see if I can find the video.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Schwarzy makes his lid with a frame and panel. The frame is notched through-tenons. Maybe think about that approach. I'd be shocked if that wouldn't hold a panel flat.


----------



## CL810

Like they say, "everything's done but the finishing."

I had a number of unique requirements for my tool chest that in the end make this one work for me. I wanted the chest to fit in the bed of my truck with the cover closed. That limited me to 21" in height. Second, I wanted to avoid bending over any more than I had to, so I chose drawers over a shelf. Third, I attend Marc Adams' School of Woodworking as often as I can so I wanted a section to hold my notepad and pencils.

I still need to build a removable tray for task specific tools and the saw till. I then plan to use shellac for the interior and paint the exterior. Further down the road I would like to build a base chest that this box will sit on.

A special tip of the hat to Brandon for giving me the kick in the pants I needed to get started. His blog on the Dutch Toolbox was great.


----------



## BrandonW

Wow, clayton. That's wonderful! I think you took this whole thread up a notch with that posting. I like the double-hinged lid, the dovetails, the drawers, everything. Looking forward to seeing it finished and all loaded up.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Awsome looking box CL!


----------



## JayT

Sweet!


----------



## theoldfart

Bravo! Well done


----------



## mochoa

Wow Clayton, you crank out a tool box pretty dang fast man! Looks great, I really like it.


----------



## donwilwol

well done Cl. I like it.


----------



## RGtools

That is a fine addition. I would love to see pictures of it loaded up with tools.


----------



## CL810

Thanks guys.  I'm looking forward to its full completion as well so I can start on the marking gauge for the tool swap. I'm feeling the heat!

*Mauricio* - it's felt more like a death march to me. It's been over a month and I have a full week ahead.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Clayton, that is a sweet interpretation of a chest. I like it alot. And it inspires me to show an update to the wall hung that's been over a year in the making, "everything's done but the finishing" and fitting tools onto four doors. But, anyway,




























It's proceeding very slowly at this point…


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty, what do you keep in the roll-top section? Your combination planes?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

At present, boxes. The #50 in it's box, and the box for my #71. Not worked out in detail yet.


----------



## RGtools

Looking good Smitty. The grain match on the drawer fronts is a nice touch.

I understand how progress can slow to a crawl at then end of a project. My Chest has had almost no work don on it since I installed the first tray…two trays left and paint, and I can't seem to get the time.


----------



## donwilwol

jeez Smitty that looks nice. It looks better than my entertainment center in my house. (but then I guess anything with planes in it gonna look better than a TV)


----------



## AnthonyReed

Beautiful Work CL!!

Is that columns next to the inner doors Smitty?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yup. They cover fasteners that hold the shelves in place. And add visual interest in walnut.


----------



## pmayer

This is a circa 1850 machinists toolbox made of birdseye maple and rosewood with dovetailed corners, intarsia detail and a cool vault style combination lock. I saw this today at a tool show and it would be high on my list.


----------



## mochoa

Wow Smitty, I love the columns! Great touch!

Paul, that chest sure it dream worthy. Very nice.


----------



## RGtools

Paul, I wish I had a closeup of that lock…it looks like a combination lock which is unique to say the least. I have always been a fan of that recessed hardware as well.


----------



## pmayer

Ryan,

Here you go.


----------



## Boatman53

I love that lock. I sure wish they were still available. Might have to look around, but I'm not hopeful.
Jim


----------



## RGtools

I am sure if enough requests came in, one of the good hardware suppliers would offer it. That is too cool. The molding that arcs around the plate is a nice touch.


----------



## CL810

In post #134 I posted some pics of the my tool chest before painting. I made one other change. I removed the poplar/Masonite racks and replaced them with cherry/birch ply.

The interior of the chest was finished with shellac. I used primer, gold, and then red to paint the exterior. I then sanded to reveal the undercoats. I'm somewhat unsure of the color scheme I picked but not sure what I can do about it. Maybe another coat of brown?

I'm going to post as a project with some more detail when I have time in the coming weeks. Now on to making a marking gauge for the shop made tool swap!!


----------



## BrandonW

Beautiful work there, Clayton. I think that's one of the coolest tool boxes around!


----------



## RGtools

That looks amazing. The red paint is a nice touch.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Very nice. I like your paint technique.


----------



## BrandonW

Posted an update to my tool chest blog: http://lumberjocks.com/BrandonW/blog/36229

tl;dr-I added drawers.


----------



## DanKrager

That is a cool box, Brandon. It looks like it could be pretty handy with the main chest elevated like that so you don't have to stand on your head to retrieve something from the bottom of it.
DanK


----------



## RGtools

Checking it out now.

I can summarize my progress this weekend with three words…

Powder Post Beetles.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yes Brandon and Clayton! As I've said, not usually a big fan of tool chests…but I like both of yours! Well thought out. Well executed.


----------



## BrandonW

Ryan, tell us more about your beetle mania.


----------



## RGtools

Years ago I purchased black walnut from a sawyer who really did not know what he was doing (at the time neither did I). Aside from the wood being poorly dried and cut often in the worst way possible…and too thin to correct much warp, It appears to have also been infested with these little demons.










Unfortunately, this issue went unnoticed for far too long. I check my lumber for these SOBs now, but I did not know back then. They mostly hit wood that has not fully dried so most of my pile is OK, the issue is my stack of workbench wood.



















I stacked this right against my pile of infected walnut and when I was taking the stack apart I noticed several adults on this wood, crap. I removed ALL the walnut from the shop, I cleaned off the surface of all the maple, removed any bark from the lumber and killed every one of those little pests I saw. I have done quite a bit of research and I feel my best course of action here is to:

A) Remove any potentially infected wood…I needed to clean out anyway.
B) Have the Maple Kiln dried, which will kill any larvae which are now surely in there. That sucks as the color will most likely be lost but I would rather that than lose the whole stack. The good news is I can start on my real bench much earlier than anticipated. 
C) Paint my Tool-chest…which was pressed up against the maple for god knows how long. If there are any little buggers in there at least when they leave they won't be able to get back in. This drives home the paint idea for me. Over the years I want the best protection available for that chest…and paint is the way to go.

I moved so much lumber yesterday. I am sore all over.


----------



## CL810

That was painful to read Ryan. At least there was something good to come out of it - starting your bench sooner.


----------



## ssnvet

this is more my speed….










blasphemy?


----------



## BrandonW

Ryan, so sorry to hear about your frustrations!

Matt, that's not blasphemy if you're a mechanic. ;-)


----------



## mochoa

Ryan I bought a load of Red Oak (used on my bench) and poplar a few years ago from a guy who had trees in his yard cut up. A lot of the wood had beetle holes in it so I got very paranoid and started reading a lot about those bastards. The wood had been in his basement for 10yrs so I didn't know if the activity was recent or not.

I wanted to treat the wood just to be on the safe side but I wanted something nontoxic. After a lot of reading I diluted Borax and Hot Shot Roach powder (99% Boric Acid) in water and doused the whole pile with a sprayer. Borax is water soluble. I know Borax is harmless to humans and I think Boric Acid is too. Not sure though.

Borax abrades the buggers exoskeletons and gives them a slow painful death. I'm not sure if it was needed as I've never seen any activity but I feel better having done it.

Hope that helps….


----------



## mochoa

Ok I just read a little more. Boric Acid is harmful to humans but you have to ingest a lot of it, however it is safer than a lot of other chemicals typically used as pesticides.

I'm pretty sure Borax is totally safe though.


----------



## RGtools

Matt. As long as you use drawer dividers to keep your sharps from bumping into each other it's a solid way to have an instant tool chest.

Boron and boric acid and borax are all kind of the same deal. I have considered them as well for treatment. I might dose some of the wood I am keeping just as a sort of holy water excercise. But I think the kiln dry is a pretty sure way to kill the ones that have infected the maple…also might be quicker so they will have less chance to do damage.

On a bright note, I pulled the trigger on the Bandsaw, but that's a topic for another forum.


----------



## Mosquito

I've been trying to think up a toolbox design that I can carry easily… so that likely means smaller. I know if I make it bigger I'll end up making it so I can pack it full of way more than I need, and then have to take a break after getting it halfway to my car… Thinking a couple saws, mortise and bench chisels, marking implements, and a few planes (probably just 3-4 at most)


----------



## mochoa

Yeah, if you can get it kiln dried that would be the way to go.

Congrats on the Bandsaw!!! Youre getting an awesome one.

I love mine, especially since getting it cutting straight which is an art in itself. It was the only power tool used on my marking gauge project.


----------



## mochoa

Mos have you looked at Jim Toplin's Tool Box book? A lot of good stuf in there that might help you out.


----------



## BrandonW

Mos, I made a Roy Underhill tote that's good for carrying a basic set. I don't use it much because I hardly take my tools outside of the garage, but it could be a possible solution for you.










(^Not mine)


----------



## Mosquito

I should kick up a copy of the toolbox book Mauricio… I did for my workbench, might as well for this too.

Brandon, I've thought about doing something similar, and making it so I can store 2 panel saws on the two outside panels. I have to finish up the marking gauge, and fix my leg vise first, before I start looking at something else to start lol


----------



## RGtools

I always wanted to challeng myself to make a toolbox the size of a shoebox that had everything essential to work on the move. The saw's would have to be japanese and break down to make it work though.


----------



## Mosquito

I was thinking about trying to convert my travel plane till into a more generic travel tool box instead of just for planes. I may still do that, but the issue is that it's only 23" on the inside, so my panel saws won't fit inside. So I'll have to do some thinking about how I'd want to mount stuff


----------



## CL810

Here's an outstanding LJ's chest that I had put in my favorites and rediscovered.


----------



## RGtools

Love his handle design.


----------



## jusfine

I have been working on storage ideas for under my bench, so totally missed this thread until now, some great ideas and builds here!

I will locate and post the plans for the small toolchest we had to build as an apprentices, someone might be interested in seeing or building it.


----------



## WillAdams

Here's an odd box which packs a lot in a small space:

http://mantiquesmodern.com/item_details.php?id=499555


----------



## 8iowa

The Traitor's Tool Chest: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/the-traitors-tool-chest-now-available-on-dvd

Chris Schwarz has come up with a tool chest design that is much simpler in materials and construction, probably within reach of those newer to woodworking who don't have a complete shop full of tools.

I never thought that I needed a tool chest. I wasn't a "traveling" woodworker. Then, last February, my son and I attended one of Chris Schwarz's classes at Highland Woodworking in Atlanta. There was an extensive tool requirement and we had to go out to Lowes to purchase large plastic (ugh) tool boxes. Yes. A nice tool chest might be in my future.


----------



## RGtools

*Will*, that is exactly what I was talking about.

I said to heck with it today and fit one more try into the chest. Just a tiny bit of tweaking and it will slide even better than my first tray. I have to remember to post a tip on how I kept spelching down.


----------



## wormil

Here's an outstanding LJ's chest…

Love his handle…

Gettin' weird up in here.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

8iowa- Gotta love Schwarz for keeping it real. There should be something for all skill levels and experience. Look forward to seeing your chest.


----------



## oldnovice

*This is mine:*









It is not exactly a woodworkers tool box but it has three important features:

Keeps the dust off the tools
Rolls easily so I can move it when needed
Lots of drawers for all of the small stuff of which I have a lot (I used to do a lot of electronics stuff)


----------



## Boatman53

Post #182, the box shown is the inspiration for a traveling tool box for me. Here is a link to the blog.
http://lumberjocks.com/Boatman53/blog/34578 I wanted something that could be carried with one hand to go up a ladder and easy to move around on/in a boat. Inside dimensions are 12"x18"x3 1/2".
I've been overwhelmed with work and haven't had time to work on it lately, plus the tool swap and my dads I'll health. The box is lowest on the list unfortunately. 
Jim


----------



## RGtools

I hope you Dad gets better Jim. The box will wait for you.


----------



## 8iowa

http://www.shopwoodworking.com/digw-build-a-two-day-tool-chest-liv?et_mid=619658&rid=3348937

I signed up. The class starts 5/30 at 7:30 PM. This should be fun!


----------



## mochoa

I'd like to sign. Up. For Paul Sellers toolbox build class online when he gets to that project.


----------



## DaddyZ

Looking at some pics of tool caddys earlier & came across this Hand Wrench thought you might get a kick out of it…


----------



## RGtools

^freaky but cool.

Crap! I just realized my post did not post. I had taken pictures of the latest tray in my chest. I will re-post tonight. One tray left and and it's dovetailed, and drying. Just need to fit the bottom and fit the tray in the chest…then paint.

That is one project I am looking forward to completing.


----------



## BrandonW

Congrats on the progress, Ryan. And yes, those crescent wrenches give me the creeps.


----------



## RGtools

OK, here is what did not load the other day. I am one tray away from being done. That tray just needs the bottom nailed on and to be fitted into the chest.

Its a bit cluttered because I have all the tools that go in the top two trays crammed in there.



















*I do have a question for the group. 
*
As you can see I have no hardware, and I would like to keep it that way as the hardware would decrease the visibility of the planes on the bottom. Do you think a simple crescent shaped cutaway on the top of each of the two lower tills would work without decreasing the strength of the trays? I am open to alternatives but zero to low profile is key here. I futzed around with the tray width quite a bit to maximize storage without making too large of a "dead zone" on the bottom of the chest. Thanks.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Looking good Ryan.

If the crescent was very small (just enough for your thumb) would it really weaken the tray?


----------



## BrandonW

Looking very nice, Ryan. I don't think a crescent it'd weaken it much at all either. Another option may be to drill a hole for a finger.


----------



## CL810

+1 to Brandon's comments. Crescent may be more stylish but a finger hole may be easier. I'd give thought to the ergonomics, i.e., how will you reach for the tills to move them, especially the lower tills?


----------



## AnthonyReed

I don't know CL, Brandon made finger holes look pretty damn stylish:


----------



## RGtools

^how tall are the drawers *Brandon*? I kind of like the look here.


----------



## donwilwol

I do like the finger holes, but agree the cutout wouldn't be an issue. If its a concern, you could double the side in that spot only. Taper it back and it would add some character as well.


----------



## DKV

This is truly the ultimate toolbox…


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan,
I used shutter pulls for my trays:









The bottom tray is set to clear the till:









I can get at all the bottom stuff without lifting the trays except for my 405:
























Thought about making finger holes but figured the tray contents would block the holes, I probably spent as much time thinking about pulls vs no pulls as I did about tray layout. Good luck!


----------



## BrandonW

Ryan, another option, that I wish I had thought of before, is to use recessed pulls. It won't take up any more space, but also gives you the option to have nice hardware. Lee Valley has a lot of good options (I couldn't link the search directly here).


----------



## theoldfart

BTW still can't bring myself to paint it, so using black transtint and wipe on poly.


----------



## theoldfart

Brandon like this?
http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=55181&cat=3,43520,43521,43559


----------



## BrandonW

Yes, and it was your post that made me think of them. They also have pulls with no movable parts, if that's what Ryan's looking for, such as:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=52495&cat=3,41419,41454,52615,52495
or http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=52897&cat=3,43520,43521,43561

and much more. LV has such a great selection of hardware.


----------



## theoldfart

I thought about using them however I had a concern about recessing them. The screws would not have a lot of "meat" to hold onto. Since they are going to have to weather years of repetitive stress I was worried about them tearing out. Hence my flush mount pulls.
Just as an aside I did recess my chest handles.


----------



## RGtools

Price wise these are painful. But I kind of like them. I did not see them on the first pass through the links.










Finished my last till last night, no pics yet (sorry). Just detail work and paint at this point.

Kevin, your chest is awesome. I am still thinking about copying you on the no slip mats, that might save some time making chisel dividers.


----------



## CL810

Nice *Ryan*.

*Kevin * I have the same black liner that is anti-corrosion. Have you had any issues with some of the rubber sticking on metal and leaving a pattern?

I decided to make the final coat dark brown instead of red. I also reduced the amount of "distressing."


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks *Ryan*, the liner is the same as CL's anti rust. see my blog post http://lumberjocks.com/theoldfart/blog/32128 about my rust disaster!

*CL* I have the same liners. I didn't think the marking was a problem. I've had no trouble with plane drag or anything like that since I wipe everything down every time I use then.

BTW check out this LJ : http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling


----------



## RGtools

*CL* That chest looks great. I would love to see where it normally lives in the shop. (same goes for you *Brandon, Keven, everyone*)

Where do you put your toolbox? Any Rules to live by?


----------



## CL810

*OF*, I have that in my favorites. It's one heckuva chest. Carter is truly talented. He hasn't posted any new projects since the chest - he does amazing work.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan it goes where ever I want. Everything is on wheels since my space is limited:


----------



## CL810

Right now there is no spot! My goal is this summer/fall is to build a cabinet that this will sit on. That cabinet will be on casters and have drawers.


----------



## donwilwol

Mine needs a new top, but I want to figure a way to convert it to a slanted top. How you guys keep crap from piling up on the cover of a flat cover is beyond me.


----------



## AnthonyReed

^ Is it because they do not have a staff of six working twelve hour shifts in their shops?


----------



## donwilwol

well, what fun is that?


----------



## theoldfart

Don, we sit on them. Keeps the dust off and aids in buffing the top.


----------



## BrandonW

Clayton, that looks sweet! I bet a companion cabinet would be nice.

Ryan, my tool chest stays in the laundry/utility room adjacent to the garage/shop. I wheel it out most of the time when I need something. I even built a little ramp to move it into the other room because they are on slightly different levels.


----------



## WhoMe

Here is a nice old tool box with tools for sale here locally in So. Cal. 
Not sure of it's real value but it is fun to look at.

Old Tool Box


----------



## RGtools

Mine gets crap piled on it frequently. But it's a temorary thing (glue ups overnight, reorganizing lumber, that sort of thing). I try to keep it and my bench top clear. If I can do that, the rest of my shop stays clean. If I don't, the whole thing turns to chaos.

+1 on wheels. I really do think mobility (within the shop at least) is key. Mine sits behind my at the bench. If I need anything I just turn around. If I walk around the chest I am in my sawbench area and the lid makes for a nice place to put my saws, square, pencil, tape, etc.


----------



## DaddyZ

WOW just had a DUH Moment !!!!!

CL810 = Clayton

Always Read that as CL Eight Ten


----------



## RGtools

^ah hah!

Glad I did not ask. (not skilled at vanity plates here)


----------



## donwilwol

Yea, that one got by me to.


----------



## DaddyZ

Thanks Brandon for making us feel ' Tupid '


----------



## BrandonW

Haha, I just started responding "Clayton" because I hate typing numbers-- I didn't realize I was decrypting anything special.


----------



## CL810

I think Brandon is one of only 3 to figure that out.


----------



## WillAdams

While it's not quite a dream. I'm fitting out a cigar box w/ all the tools for my CNC mill:


----------



## RGtools

^Very compact. Something awesome about that.


----------



## WillAdams

Thanks!

I've since added a scribing point and finger cut-outs-- wish I could find the smaller 4" size Starrett screwdriver, but they're discontinued.


----------



## redSLED

Seems to me that the larger the shop, the greater the need for a tool chest? (in addition to on-site work). Phew! Us small workshop owners can rest easy for now.


----------



## RGtools

^ My shop is pretty small, but I still felt it worth the floorspace to keep my tools safer from a bit of corrosion. It's also nice to have one place to go for everything you use. I have also worked with my tools mounted to the walls around my bench and that does work well, but trying to keep everything free from dust was a bit of a joke.


----------



## Mosquito

Ryan, the dust issue is currently a big reason I'm considering making a decent sized one myself. Otherwise, a lot of my smaller tools (marking, dovetail saw, chisels, etc) are all in plastic drawers and such. Don't really like it, but I had them, and it works for now


----------



## theoldfart

Mos, from what I've seen of your bench I'm looking forward to your take on a tool chest.


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks Kevin  I'm hoping to finish my marking gauge for the swap, fix the bench, finish a music stand, then might start on a tool chest and tool tote. Maybe a tool chest where part of the sliding draws assembly inside is a tool tote I can lift out and travel with. Hmm….


----------



## theoldfart

Mos, take a look here : 
http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com
I intend to make his traveling chest to make it easier to carry my stuff to my furniture class


----------



## Mosquito

I like that one. I just downloaded the sketchup model for it. I might take some design inspiration from it


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Just got the new FWW. Looks like they have their take on a tool chest:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/video/the-essential-tool-chest.aspx


----------



## RGtools

Almost done…


----------



## theoldfart

Good feeling, isn't it? Coming along really well.
I put paraffin on the drawer runners and sides, worked great.


----------



## Mosquito

Very nice Ryan. As Kevin said, it's got to feel good


----------



## CL810

Really really nice Ryan.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Man, that is sexy Ryan.


----------



## Brit

And the crowd go wild…

Nice work Ryan.


----------



## donwilwol

Its looking fantastic Ryan.


----------



## DanKrager

I does look good naked. Nice work!

Are you going to put handles on it?
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Great work, nicely done Ryan!


----------



## RGtools

Thanks guys. I am really excited to be done with this project. I have put it on hiatus several times to work on other things so it's been a long friggin (for Al) road.

*Dan* I don't think I am going to bother with the handles on the outside. The moulding and the wheels offer as much mobility as I feel is really needed.

*Kevin* I embedded a hell of a lot of wax into the tray sides and the side walls and this helps quite a bit. What really matters is taking the time to get a tight fit on those trays, they are a horrible situation when it comes to racking because they are basically a very shallow, extremely wide drawer…if you get get that to run smooth you can definitely make and drawer that furniture is going to throw at you.

I still need to make a few tool dividers, figure out the finger pulls for the trays, and paint the thing, but I can actually work out of the thing at this point. What really amazes me about this style of chest is just how many tools you have access to once you open the lid. The top tray has 23 tools in it and that is the least packed of the trays. I can get to all the trays right off the bat. And the bottom is just a one motion step to access; that means speed. It really does encourage you to put your stuff back when you are done (a habit I needed to get into).


----------



## theoldfart

*Ryan*, your dead on about the tray fit. I have less than a 1/32'nd gap so I can pull on just one of the two rings and the drawer slides effortlessly with no racking.


----------



## BrandonW

Ryan, that tool chest is looking mighty sweet. It even makes the workbench look small.


----------



## DaddyZ

Very Nice Ryan !!

A couple of totes I Made this weekend

Sizes Approx 6×13


----------



## waho6o9

Great totes DaddyZ.

Maybe make one for your new found plane?


----------



## DaddyZ

Waho ^ I keep thinking of building a special home for it

The cabinet with all my planes is quite full


----------



## RGtools

*DaddyZ* I really like the way the figure of the wood on your tote wraps around the corner, a very nice touch for a tool caddy.

*Chris AKA Mosquito* I wanted to comment about your idea about having a lift out tool tote. I wanted to do that one this chest, to be able to lift out your core set of tools in one shot would be cool. But I chickened out because I did not like the idea that I would have to have the tote with my core kit on the bottom of the chest (from a space standpoint it would have to go there). If you figure out how to surmount that, I look forward to seeing the design.


----------



## Mosquito

*Ryan* Yeah, I haven't gotten anything "on paper" yet, but I've been kind of playing with it in my head a little bit. I'm not entirely sure how I'd be able to pull it off yet either. I think the first thing I'll have to do is decide what exactly I want to include in the lift out tote. Then figure out how I can have everything in it such that I can use it effectively outside the chest, and also while it's inside. I don't think it'll be easy, but if nothing else, should be fun to try to design.


----------



## donwilwol

hmmm, I thought I posted this last night, I was thinking of a lift out for the front of mine.

Maybe 2 or 3 trays deep? That would then sit on top when the box was in use.


----------



## RGtools

The core kit is different for everybody. I think when I designed mine (which I will try to find and take a picture of here) my "tote kit" was as follows:

Bench Chisels
Jack Plane
Chisel Hammer
Hammer
Rip and Crosscut Saw
Phillips & Flathead screwdrivers
Hand-drill and bits
Marking gauge
Marking knife
Pencil & Sharpener. 
Combo square


----------



## BrandonW

Here's a tool tote I made a few years ago-- It's a basically the Roy Underhill version with a few modifications. I also painted it a reddish-orange color.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice One Brandon…


----------



## donwilwol

I'm not sure how I feel about the reddish-orange color?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I think I finally met the color I don't like. ;-)


----------



## DaddyZ

That way when he is stealing Pumpkins no one will notice him…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Here's where I saw that color before!

[Image removed, but it was an incredible color match…]


----------



## BrandonW

Hahaha, no love for the tote color. I was rifling through my paint and that was one of the only options and I didn't really want to go baby blue on it. The colors were actually two paint colors that I mixed together. It's a little redder and less pumpkin than the picture makes it out to be, but to be honest, I'm not in love with it either.


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty, that's bad. Very bad.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I know, I regret posting it…

EDIT: So I 'fixed it.'


----------



## RGtools

Where's Scotty when you need him? I think the tote might be terracotta.

*Brandon* did you go all the way and do the angled DT's or did you nail it together?


----------



## BrandonW

I think you're right, Ryan. I stole the leftover paint from Scott's garage.

I chickened out when I built it a few years ago and didn't DT the joints. They are rabbeted joints with nails. Actually I needed to get the project done quickly and couldn't have done the DTs. I'd love to try them now, but I don't have a need for another tote, I hardly use this one. It was originally made as a prop.


----------



## theoldfart

*Ryan*, if you made a tote the same length as say your middle tray it could rest on the runners rather than the bottom of your chest. I'm going to modify Tom Fiidgins' traveling tool chest to fit on the lower runner between the trays and the chest front.


----------



## RGtools

^ my issue is I had, not wanted, had to be able to fit full length saws in the tote. If I don't have those in the kit, I am useless.

What tools would you simply not go without?


----------



## theoldfart

Can't really answer that. You have a farm to manage as well as a b'nb. My travel kit will be for classes though I'm pretty sure I'll be able to fit most of what you mentioned above in # 258


----------



## Mosquito

Started throwing together some ideas for the removable travel kit. So far I'm liking what I've come up with so far, but I'll have to see where it goes from here


----------



## WillAdams

Here's my specialized tool kit for assembling / maintaining / using my ShapeOko (opensource, hobbyist CNC mill):










Will get some black, adhesive-backed craft foam for the lid tomorrow.

Next tool kit task will be improving or replacing a joiner's chest (like Roy Underhill's design here: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/howto/images/e2103toolbox1940.pdf ) I picked up off Craigslist.

Not sure why, but tools just don't fit in it in a way I like….

To answer the questions more directly:

How do you store your tools?
- Some are in my laptop bag or pockets and are my E.D.C.
others are in
- a Craftsman mechanics chest
- the joiner's chest mentioned above
- an old, open tote my great aunt's bridge partner's husband made
- hung up on pegboard or in plastic storage cases on my workbench

What do you make your toolbox out of?
- I'm going to make one of hickory

What do you think is worth putting in your toolbox?
- the nice tools I enjoy using and want to take care of-- the junk is going to get boxed up and stored out of the way for some other need.

And perhaps most importantly…why?
- to make them portable (I do a lot of woodworking on the back porch), protect them, and make it easier and more efficient to use them.


----------



## CL810

*Ryan*, have you considered two totes? One for saws and one for core hand tools. I saw a saw tote in an antique store once. It carried two hand saws. Wish now that I had taken a picture.


----------



## RGtools

*Will* Thanks for the input. The foam cigar box is a nice quick way to store a bunch of small tools quickly.

Out of curiosity, why hickory for a tool chest? It's durable, but it's heavy. What size chest are you thinking for a back porch war kit?

*CL810* I have thought about two totes, but I could like to be able to carry a sawbench in one hand and a tote in the other. Although the idea of a combined sawhorse tool tote is a good one. Take a look at this patent for instance.


----------



## RGtools

Here are a few more combination tote-horses:

From the 20's

Simplicity itself.

Sorry it's small. This is the one I was originally trying to find.


----------



## Mosquito

I like the last one, bug given the nature of what saw horses are intended for, I feel like the tools would get covered in a lot of sawdust


----------



## WillAdams

The cigar box tool kit wasn't that quick-- long struggle getting the tools drawn up as 3D models, then almost as long struggling w/ pyCAM to get G-code to operate the mill-- will re-visit it later, but just wanted it to be done.

Was thinking hickory 'cause I've got a nice board, but that's a good point about the weight. Let me with-draw that and think on it some more.

Size is still up in the air-- I'd like to think I could get all the tools I need into a the volume of the joiner's chest, just a little less deep, but w/ a split opening like the Studley, but a horizontal layout-- need to lay out tools and evaluate what I'll actually include, and what the size will be.

The combined tote-horses are interesting, but don't they result in lots of sawdust on one's tools?


----------



## BrandonW

I was thinking the same thing about the sawdust, Mos. And the problem with the other saw-horse chest is that if you're using them as saw horses, you can't get to your tools.


----------



## RGtools

^all true. But they are still and intriguing concept. I would like to see someone work the bugs out.


----------



## donwilwol

Couldn't you just put the till directly under the top with the door on the side so when the till is closed the sawdust stays out.


----------



## WhoMe

Don, That is what I was thinking, make it so the ends become where the tools are accessible. With slide out tills or drawers.


----------



## CL810

I like the saw horse/saw till and separate tool tote concept. A saw horse with a tool tote would create chaos in a shop with a tool chest. Let's see, where did I put my 1/2" chisel? But a chest with a smaller tote capable of holding the user's core tools keeps them all in one place. While in the shop the saws could be kept in the chest or a wall hanging till.

Pockets, open on one end, to slide saws into could be mounted on the insides or outsides of the legs. This would keep your saws protected when not in use and accessible when there are boards on the sawhorses.

When you leave the shop, put saws in saw horse till, task essential tools in tote and you're gone.


----------



## RGtools

I just chickened out 4 times trying to buy milk paint…what the heck is wrong with me?


----------



## theoldfart

Thou shalt not painteth thine tool-chest. Your inner self is speaking to you, you should listen!


----------



## RGtools

^You and grandpa would get along. Every time I mention painting the thing he acts like I am about to kick a puppy. I want to paint it. I also want it to be natural, the issue is I have equally competitive motives directing me either way.

What happens when an unstoppable force meets an immovable object?

Not sure, but I am starting to feel like a clown.


----------



## RGtools

Painted…










Natural…










Scouring the internet does not help.


----------



## BrandonW

I was about to cast my vote for painting it, but that natural finish on the traveling tool chest is sweet!


----------



## theoldfart

*Ryan*Did not mean to blanket you in self doubt. Your craftsmanship is beyond question. I struggled to make mine. Its about the best thing i've ever done am i'm unwilling to cover the joinery. My bad!!


----------



## RGtools

^*Kevin* I was not offended (hope my comment did not come off that way). Your comment made me laugh like hell actually.

Covering the joinery is one of the reasons I really don't want to pant the chest, I am not just proud of the dovetails, I am proud of the whole system of joinery that I used the put this thing together in a permanent way. Covering it is a bit like keeping a secret from a future joiner.

On the other hand…painting the chest will aid to increase the lifespan of the chest for several reasons. A major one being repair ability. Paint is the most permanent finish out there, done right it can be gorgeous. I also faced the pretty parts of the wood I used inward, thinking in the beginning that paint would be the way I went. Overall, painting the chest might help keep it around long enough for someone to think it's worth figuring out.

I just bought paint….we'll see if I can get the brush out when it gets here.


----------



## mochoa

Nature looks good but that natural chest is not pine. A pine chest wont look like that.


----------



## wormil

Whoah, that toolbox/sawhorse from the 20's that folds into a briefcase is pretty damn cool.


----------



## RGtools

Another good addition on LJ's


----------



## CL810

Took my tool chest on the road to woodworking school for a week. Before I took everything in several tool boxes and rolls. Tools were disorganized to say the least. Now tools were in their place which made for a much nicer work environment.


----------



## DanKrager

That's just neat, CL810. Good feeling, yes? 
Can't wait to get my tills and chests underway. The need now is not so much portability but a place to put things orderly and conveniently. Portability is a bonus. 
Travel safely.
DanK


----------



## CL810

Yes it was Dan. More productive - spent very little time looking for things. But, it's not even a month old and I'm already thinking about changes if/when I make another one!!


----------



## DanKrager

You're getting older AND wiser!

Change is constant. That's why I go out of my way A LOT to build as modular and flexible as possible. There are some long stories behind that relating to customers "needs".

DanK


----------



## RGtools

Awesome to here some use out of a traveling chest, I would love to see pics in situ though. Change is constant and that is why it is good to make permanent as little as you can inside a chest.

What's bugging you already *CL810*? Or is it just increase capability you are looking for?

Today my shop was a bit like a nuclear reactor reaching critical mass. The phrase "A place for everything and everything in it's place" did not remotely apply. I snapped. Every scrap of lumber I own was hurtled into the center of my shop, racks got pulled out and the floor got a long overdue cleaning. By the end of it all I had a large stack for the burn pile and a neatly ordered stash of lumber. Tomorrow tools…but they will be treated more gently.


----------



## CL810

Ryan, I think I would change the construction of and the configuration of the drawers to get quicker access to tools and protect them. You tried to warn me about just this issue and I just didn't appreciate it until I experienced it. I did have that "aha" moment where I thought "that's what Ryan was talking about."

There are a great number of "flat" tools (files, marking knives, rulers, squares, etc.) that you need access to quickly. Rummaging through a drawer or till that is 2 or more inches deep is not good for the tools and is a loss of time. For me, a row of 2" deep drawers and a row of 3/4" deep drawers will fit my needs better.

I may be able to work around this by changing my till but I'm in no hurry. The chest fulfills 95% of my needs so now it comes down to refinements. I need more time with this chest before coming to a firm conclusion.


----------



## theoldfart

*CL810*, after a year or so i'm still, refining and re-fitting special spots for individual tools. I just got back from vacation in Maine and did a little rust hunting. Found a shop with more tool chests than I have EVER seen at one time. I'll post pics in a little while. BTW it was about 50/50 on paint vs stain for finish.


----------



## planeBill

anyone else have any toolchests going? These all look great! I recently built one myself though nothing as nice as these. Not by choice mine is made of friggin poplar. we all had to use poplar. So of course I painted mine. Inside tills and chisel rack are cherry and the rails for the tills are white oak. Homemade handles and exterior trim bits are Honduras mahogany. Case is dovetailed, tills are dovetailed and trim is dovetailed too, opposing the dovetails on the case to lock it well. We call it a shipwrights toolchest but you guys call it a patternmakers chest.
I quickly ran out of room for tools but its the size that was specified so it is looking like I will be making a matching rolling cart with more space to set it on and am looking for inspiration and there is no better place to get that than here, keep posting.
Ill try to post some finished pics later, These are my first dovetails.


----------



## theoldfart

*Planebill*, what are the dimensions and how about a pic of the finished chest? Good job on the dovetails and a lot of us don't mind poplar.
*Ryan* here are some pics:









some are stained:



























This one made me consider painting!


















The shop where I saw these has three buildings full of old tools.
So good rust hunting was had and great sunsets and beers as a bonus:


----------



## planeBill

Yeah I'll put up some of the final product in a bit. The dimensions are 30"x22"x20".


----------



## donwilwol

Mines coming along. I'll update the blog soon.


----------



## RGtools

Thanks for sharing *Kevin*. Holy toledo! I would have spent all day there going through chests. what a treat. I love the painted name on the front panel. I have been considering the lid but that just seemed off since half the time it would be upside down. Still waiting for my paint, still wondering if I will change my mind again.

*PlaneBill* my chest is poplar, it has it's quirks, but poplar is one of my favorite woods to work with. It's just so inviting to tools and in the end, to your hands.

*Don* your speed always amazes me.


----------



## mochoa

Planebill that is a sweet chest. I like the poplar though, I think it looks nice.

Kevin, nice chest pics, some of those make me change my mind about a stained (unpainted) chest.

Don, that chest is looking sweet! How did I miss that blog post?

My wall cabinet is one of those project that I have been meaning to finish for a while. Today I added a marking gauge holder. 

























I ran a bead down the bottom of it just because I had bought an old molding plane while back and hadn't tried it out yet.

Also, I have gauges for the two empty spots but one is a replica of my swap gauge and the other spot is for the one I received.


----------



## planeBill

OK, it isn't my dream tool chest but its what we had to make. It was the second project in a school I attended recently. The box itself is what we HAD to make I should say, the interior and finish was left to the individual so here is my measley effort. I wish it were bigger but it will do for now, sort of… Tills and lift out tote are cherry as is the chisel rack. Trim and handles are H Mahogany.


----------



## planeBill

Mauricio, thanks for compliment. Poplar is nice to work but it does not lend itself to a fine finish. I just like to see wood not paint is all. I must not be too against it I was just looking to buy some more of it for my cart that my chest will set on. Guess Ill paint it too.


----------



## theoldfart

Gotta say I like that pull out till!


----------



## DaddyZ

Fart ^ you're not the only one !!!
Bravo planebill !!!


----------



## planeBill

thank ya fellers. I needed something to fill all of that empty space plus it holds my tills in place during transport.


----------



## RGtools

*Planebill* I would be the third to say the pull out tote is awesome. Stealing the hinged handle idea for future use.

How to you like the Liogier? I have wanted to give the a try, but can't figure out shipping so I grabbed an Aurou instead.


----------



## planeBill

Steal away RG and thanks for the kind words. The rasp is probably the most amazing tool in that box. It will absolutely devour iroko and teak and white oak and any other wood that it touches but it leaves a finish beyond belief. Pretty much whatever he says in his description on his site is true. A superlative instrument. I love it. Ive used the Aurou (sp) and I honestly can say that I liked the Liogier better. It felt better in my hand and left a noticeably better surface and they were both roughly the same stitch. Tried them both on hard and soft woods and you will not get more personalized and professional service anywhere. I dealt directly with the owner of the forge and he personally took my order and delivered my new tool to me free of charge.
I just cant say enough good about the tool and the company.


----------



## donwilwol

I love that fold down handle. I wish I'd seen that a week or 2 earlier.


----------



## planeBill

Thanks Don. I don't know why I didn't just make the box shorter. Oh well, I guess it looks cool. Another thing I did is where there is wood to wood contact with the tills and the rails they slide on, I took some bits of UHMW plastic and let them flush into the bottom edges of the sides of the tills so there is no need for any wax or anything else to make them slide like they are on grease. Worked well.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Bill when you have the time would you please provide a picture of how you used the UHMW? I am having trouble getting my monkey mind to picture it.

Thank you.


----------



## RGtools

^slick trick Bill.


----------



## planeBill

will do. thanks rg.

OK went and took a few pics. Not the best ones but youll get the idea I think. I extended the UHMW bits out past the ends of the tills to fully reach the insides of the case to keep the tills from twisting and binding as they are moved back and forth. It really did work great I must say. Very solid and smoothe movement. The UHMW is secured to the tills with some #6 screws well countersunk.


----------



## DaddyZ

Cool Idea !!


----------



## Hammerthumb

Finally finished the top portion of my tool chest. I have posted it in my projects if anyone is interested in more details. Thanks for looking


----------



## RGtools

^ love the pulls.


----------



## CL810

Planebill, just now seeing your posts on full size monitor and it's a sweet build - beautiful work.

Nice HT, reaaalllly nice.


----------



## devann

My dream toolbox is a redhead, around 120 lbs. She won't let me post her picture here. But she loves to remind me where my favorite toolbox is.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Chest there Hammerthumb ^

Wait that sounds odd saying to another fella

Oh Well …..


----------



## RGtools

We were discussing sawhorse tool-chests. I can't believe we missed this one.


----------



## tomclark

There are some really fancy tool boxes posted here. Mine is not. It is just a simple plywood cabinet to match the rest of the two dozen shop cabinets in my shop. 17 drawers - five have full extension slides and the rest wood slides. It holds 23 cu. ft. or 45 square feet of drawer space. 
Sizes are 32 wide, Base is 36 highs 24 deep. top is 26 high x 18 deep.

Is simple better? No, other than the fact that this took 4 days to make and finish.


















The new toolbox matches all the other cabinets in my shop - some of which are now 30 years old.


----------



## jmartel

Simple can be beautiful in it's own right. What joinery did you use for the drawers that you were able to complete it in 4 days?


----------



## DanKrager

Nice. I admire this.
DanK


----------



## tomclark

Simple can be beautiful in it's own right. What joinery did you use for the drawers that you were able to complete it in 4 days?

Let's just say that my clamp drawer holds three nail guns…
The joints are pure butt, and the bottom is cut to the finished size of the drawer and glued and stapled directly to the bottom of the drawer. Super fast and super strong. If you doubt that, build one and then try to tear it apart!


----------



## mochoa

Sweet cabinet Tom, by the way I bought your book and there is a ton of great info in there.


----------



## mochoa

One of the things that makes plywood but joints strong is that the grain alternates so have the surface contact is long grain to long train.


----------



## DanKrager

I lost my Galoot points today. 
I was all excited about starting my plane till using some rough sawn walnut I came into. Yup, I'm gonna get LOTS of Galoot points by hand planing these 11" wide boards to 5/8" thickness.









But the heat and humidity got me. I'm pretty sure my Galoot points are somewhere in this pile.










DanK


----------



## mochoa

Dang Dan, hook a shop vac up to that thing.


----------



## RGtools

^ Ha Ha!. I am glad I am not the only one. This heat is brutal (got to get that shop oh mine insulated). I myself have been very appreciative of my planer and my bandsaw as of late.
*
Tom* Your chest is simple effective and beautiful. In my mind that is a hard combination to beat.


----------



## CL810

Finally got around to posting my chest as a project.


----------



## RGtools

Going over there now.


----------



## WayneC

I found a tool box on vacation last week. Need to build a platform for rollers and move my tools in. It is supposed to be turn of the last Century from New Jersey. These are some photos I took of it in the antique store. Interesting thing is that it has a saw till in the lid.


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne it looks great. The handles look familiar:









The chest they came from was disintegrating, so I bought just for the handles. Wish I could have saved the chest.


----------



## CL810

Nice find Wayne! You're lucky man.


----------



## WayneC

Thanks and the handles do look similar.


----------



## donwilwol

same handles on mine.


----------



## theoldfart

need a thread on handles!! It's gonna be a movement.


----------



## pjped

I've been waiting for these to come back in stock for over a year! 
Lee-Valley Iron Handles

not sure if these are strong enough for my chest, which is super heavy:


----------



## theoldfart

Pete, I think those will still rip out. The screw holes seem small. My handles are NOT for lifting, just for pulling. If your going to lift it might be better to have something that either goes through the wall.
BTW nice work on the chest!


----------



## donwilwol

yea, if you plan on lifting it full, i'd through bolt them.


----------



## RGtools

I never tossed handles on mine. Once it went on casters the trim around the lid made it very easy to move arround.

Wayne, glad you posted that chest here I was hoping you would, and I was looking forward to seeing the guts of the lid as well. Very cool. The cross-nailed half-blind finger joint is also a very interesting touch.

Pete. Holy smurfin sweetness! That is a fine looking chest. I really need to get my chest a bit more organized. Soon as I am done with this commision I am going to take an hour and make some dividers. My layout gear is espescially cluttered right now.


----------



## WayneC

I was planning to take some more photos of it in detail with one of my good cameras. The maker used a lot of dowels and square nails as well…


----------



## DanKrager

Maur-Dang Dan, hook a shop vac up to that thing.

OK. And you were right, it was a lot cleaner! Thank you for reminding me! 










DanK


----------



## WayneC

Here are a few more iPhone photos of the chest I got last week.


----------



## WayneC

Dan, I think you can patent that as a fesplane.


----------



## CL810

Pete that is just soooo sweet!


----------



## Mosquito

Just like the LV april fools last year
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69302&cat=1,42401


----------



## pjped

WayneC, that is a great find!


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, thats a work of art.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wayne, that last pic is (to me) the most interesting of all. Looks like there's a extra set of boards applied to the bottom of the chest, below the skirt? Is there really, then, a double-thick bottom to the thing, or is that end-grain board a runner of sorts?

From the second pic, what do (did) those 'holed' strips setting in the sliding till contain?


----------



## WhoMe

Dang Pete, nice tool box but I think handles are just not going to work. Maybe one of these:


----------



## theoldfart

Either that or Scotty can fly on a skycrane!


----------



## pjped

Thanks guys, it is built way too heavy, and one day I'm going to build a proper ATC or Dutch chest or wall cabinet with dovetails, white pine…the whole works. This beast is 1" ply all around except for the pine/poplar lid, and the sliding trays are 7/8" cherry!
What the heck was I thinking?!


----------



## WayneC

Smitty, there is a runner and a foot shown in the last photo. I think boards with holes came out of the saw till. It looks like there is a board missing at the bottom of the till. I'm thinking I may look at making a replacement.

Pallet Jack for the win.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Good stuff DanK. Had me chuckling pretty good.

Wayne- whenever I see stuff like that, I wish I had a time machine.

I mentioned a while back that my dream tool box would be more of a wall with tills hung on french cleats. Well, planning on starting it this weekend. I know its different than the chests you guys are making, but maybe I post some of it here anyway.


----------



## pjped

Red, I have the chest but half the time I can't get in it because of all the junk on the lid - wall-mounted tills sound very good right now! I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures! - Pete


----------



## WayneC

I'm worried about that too Pete. For the longest time my wife put a stuffed peacock on my table saw.


----------



## theoldfart

Red, how do you plan to keep dust etc. off the tools?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well, that dust in my shop has been cut back drastically by my increased hand tool usage. Other than that, I have a ceiling mounted dust filter like this:









Every so often I crank that baby on high, take the air compressor hose, and go to town. Blow it all off and get out. When I come back the filter is darn near clogged. Sometimes I do it twice.

Rust? I'm pretty good about wiping my tools down with wd-40 often.

That said. I plane to make tills that hang on the french cleats. I haven't decided if some of those tills with have doors, cover etc. I'm designing as I go;-)


----------



## DanKrager

TOF, the way you keep dust off the tools is put the beer down and use them! You know the famous line "Here hold my beer, now watch THIS!" LOL! I saw your other post…

BRK, I'm with you on the tills on cleats. While my tills won't be on the wall they will be on a rolling stand close to the bench. They will be built so the cleats could be installed and the tills then hung later if need be. Made some more progress today and did samples for the back of the plane till with a dry assembly on the case parts. Dusted off the 45 for the beads and 78 for the tongues. The grooves will probably be a 55 trick.

TOF, I'm putting doors on my tills to help with keeping the dust and rust off. I'm afraid that the smoked acrylic I plan to use could be a dust magnet, but the ones I've used so far are not bad. Hand tools create a LOT less dust.
DanK


----------



## DanKrager

Oh, and these tills are high enough that it is unhandy to put anything on top of them!
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sounds great Dan. My work slows significantly in the evening with beer in hand as well;-)

My french cleats will be a sheet of white oak ply with some knotty walnut for cleats. Only thing I'm stumped on so far is what to use for finish. Don't think it needs poly. Maybe just danish oil?


----------



## DanKrager

You're gonna put FINISH on your french cleats? They're hidden! But then, looking at the rest of your immaculate shop, Danish oil will be fine. If you want to feed your obsession, French polish sounds appropriate!
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Lol…nah they wont be totally hidden the way I'm doing it. There will be little chisel racks etc. Something like this fellas, but bigger tills:



As for doors. My planes are in a cabinet with a sliding door right now…but I never close it. Who wants to open and close every time ya need a plane;-)


----------



## RGtools

I am liking seeing the other ways of going about tool storage. Wall Cleats are a good way to go. I will say that one sheet of plywood mounted to the wall will quickly let you mount a crapload of tools.










*Big Red* I want that dust filter…and soon.


----------



## CL810

*Big Red*, I just stumbled on GIM's wall storage project yesterday and have been chewing on it since. Looking forward to see your interpretation.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

RG- I admit, if there's one thing in my shop I should've made and saved the cash….it would be that dust filter. It's essentially a box, a blower(with motor) and a filter. If they have one at menards or somewhere around you, check out the floor model. Very basic. Something to think about. Rockler sells a nice washable filter.

CL- I'll take ya for the ride then. French cleat-wall-till-thingy coming right up. Got some done this morning. Found a good sized piece of wht oak ply in my rack. It was 8' long, but only 30" wide. So I put a frame around it just to get some more size. Just pocket holes on the back and edge glue. I know, I'm lame. 









Here's the peachy walnut for the cleats. I always overbuy common grade hardwoods. I use the crappier lookin boards for stuff like this. Good stuff goes to furniture. 









Ripping the 45 degree bevels. I didn't make the bevels quite to a point. Don't want them to be sharp. 









Needed some galoot points. Cutting out the crud. Shop stuff is great practice. 









Not really smoothing. Just removing the machining marks. Got plans all evening with one of my two friends. More tomorrow. Peace out, Red


----------



## CL810

*Ryan*, Grizzly sells secondary filters that filter out to 1 micron that are pretty economical. I built a box around an old furnace blower with the 1 micron filter between a washable filter and the blower.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is the link to the air filter I made a while ago. Works great and I didn't have to spend much. When the filters are clean you can drop a handful of dust 10' away and watch it run right to the filters

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/41327


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Finished up the french cleat board today. Basically I marked a line for the bottom edge of each cleat. Pre-drilled, put a little glue down, temped them with brads, and screwed from the back. This way all the ugly screw heads are on the back. 








Ugly back. 









I like sawing things after they're installed sometimes rather fret over exact length.









Drilled some 1/2" anchors into the block wall and mounted. 
























Looks nice with a coat of danish oil. 
Now, lots of years of making different racks, tills, etc. for my tools. Might be some fun "hand tool only" projects. I will make a few soon. I probably won't make a plane till until I have the joinery bench under resting beneath though. Too afraid of a plane dropping all the way to the concrete. I know, I'm a big fat chicken.


----------



## DanKrager

BRK, ...not fat chicken, red chicken! 
That is an awesome french cleat system. Superbly stylish and expertly executed. Love it!
DanK


----------



## CL810

Very nice. What else did you get done this weekend? ;-)


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks guys. The wife and kids were visiting the outlaws, (I was on-call) so it was a highly productive weekend. I still mowed the grass, went to a few bbq's and mailed mailed your plane Andy;-P 
I really turn into a worker bee when they're gone….otherwise I get lonely.

And I say "years" of making tills and racks. We all know I'll have that joinery bench and all the tills done by this fall….lol.

GMatheson- Sweet dust filter. Exactly what I was thinkin.


----------



## CL810

I just came across the Unplugged Woodshop website. He has a blog on a cabinet maker's tool chest. You can see it at the 5:50 mark of the video. Scroll to the end of the article for the video.

This website looks very interesting. Time for some exploration.


----------



## planeBill

BRK, your setup looks ultra neat. That is sweet. good work man.


----------



## mochoa

I made an air cleaner a while back but after so much reading about how you cant fully rely on them I use it differently. I use it to exhaust dirty air out of the shop with no filters. It also doubles as my planner stand.

Red, sweet wall storage system man! Looks great.


----------



## RGtools

Cl810 You are in for some fun. Tom Fidgen is an amazing craftsman and an interesting writer as well.


----------



## theoldfart

He is/was a Lumberjock as well. Hasn't posted anything in a while.


----------



## DanKrager

Bit of progress to a dry fit. We don't need no schtinkin' glue here! I'm leaning towards magnets to secure the planes, but that does limit flexibility. Hanger cords are the next option I guess. I hate decisions…









DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice DanK. I don't have my till design totally worked out in my head as of yet. I thought about using a rabbeted cleat. Fasten it where the toe and the heel of the plane will go. Maybe make the top on deeper so you would have to lift to disengage the plane. If that makes any sense.


----------



## DanKrager

Thanks, BRK. While trying to understand your description I had an idea. Suppose for each plane you made a French cleat hanger that would hold the plane near vertical at a secure angle and hang that plane on the cleat board. It would be like the shoe rests on the old shoe shine stands, an angled plate for each plane. You could move them around as needed, making big ones that span more than one cleat and small ones that only need one cleat and maybe a spacer. Just a thought.
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Dan, I think we're barking up the same tree….maybe a little different take. Whether it's a beveled cleat, or a rabbeted one. I picture one long cleat along the bottom edge of your till. That would hold the heels of the planes. Then you could make smaller cleats for the toe. Fasten them with either brads or screws. But ya, you could move them around as you see fit.


----------



## RGtools

I would just finish nail the cleats, that way if you wanted to make a change all you need is a claw hammer.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dan, I like where that is heading! Nice walnut carcase, too. It'll be a great addition to your shop space, well done!


----------



## mochoa

Awe snap! Paul Sellers just started his Tool Chest build on his paid membership site. I'm on my first month subscribtion and I highly recommend it. You pick up a lot just watching a master work.

Its only $15/mo and you get to watch all the old videos to.


----------



## Mosquito

Saw that as well, can't wait to watch the series. I may make a small version of this one, for chisels, rasps, files, marking implements, etc. Currently just use one of those plastic 3-drawer bin things, not the greatest lol


----------



## mochoa

Yeah, thats what I was thinking, maybe make one for some of my less frequently used tools and specialty planes. I dont even feel like I need a tool chest but I'd love to have a small one like he makes.


----------



## Mosquito

My thought was to have the top section a lot more shallow, and do mostly shallow drawers. Sort of a flip-top chest of drawers, I guess.

Edit: Maybe I won't make it shallower, but put a saw till in the whole top section instead. I should get those off the floor lol


----------



## revwarguy

Hello guys,

I just now found this thread, and it touches on something I love to look at - toolboxes.

As part of my application to be able to join, here is a toolbox I built not too long ago - very simple construction, inexpensive to make, but I smile every time I use it:










Not as fancy as some of the ones here, but I was able to build it very quickly, and it removed the temptation to buy more sheet metal!

A build log of it is here if you want to see more about it.

Anyway, thanks to all who've posted pictures of these great boxes!


----------



## Mosquito

*revwarguy*, if I had built something like that, I bet I would smile every time I looked at it too. Nice work


----------



## mochoa

Very nice! I bet you can fit a ton of stuff in that cabinet.


----------



## theoldfart

Just spotted this
http://www.thebestthings.com/oldtools/graphics/mi130336a.jpg

And only $1,995.00 plus shipping! It's beautiful.


----------



## RGtools

*revwarguy* That is a great chest, I am glad that this thread can help feed your toolbox addiction.

*Kevin* that is a drool-box.


----------



## revwarguy

Dan Krager - you're in Olney? Isn't that where Lawless is? I bought some of the hardware on my toolbox shown above there.


----------



## DanKrager

Yah, he's just down the street from me. Those handles were from his place. He didn't have the corners I wanted. Nice selection of brass ones, and got some for smaller box.
I didn't say anything earlier, but I really admire those chests you built! That's eye candy too!

DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

First french cleat tool thingy built.


----------



## mochoa

Dang! Square mortises? Way to go the extra mile to add some style. I would have just used oak dowels.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I might do some dowels on the next. I just had that idea stuck in my head. I did cheat a bit. The angled mortises were made with a dado blade. If I would've chopped those by hand, and tried to get them all the same angle….it would've look like crap;-)

I hung it up and said, "Now why didn't I make that bigger?"


----------



## widdle

Nice red..Should be fun little projects, Soo you ran a dado and came back and blocked in between the pegs ?


----------



## chrisstef

That's gonna look boss all filled up with tools Red. If ya got some that don't fit, you know where to send em.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sumpin like this Widster:


----------



## widdle

Good move..Gotcha..


----------



## RGtools

How to fit a square peg in a round hole…

Make the hole square.

That cleat is slathered in awesomesauce.


----------



## GMatheson

Came across this interesting piano/tool chest and thought I would share


----------



## WayneC

I posted photos of the box I picked up at an antique store a couple of weeks ago in the hand tool forum.










http://lumberjocks.com/topics/51684


----------



## CL810

GMat - great link. I especially liked his one.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

A few more tool thingys for the french cleat wall:



























A chisel till is in the works. Resawed some white oak to 1/2" and gave em a little shiplap edge. Lower ones are intentionally thinner to accommodate the handles. 
I intended to do these as hand tool only projects. But I'm kinda limited by my hand saw selection….and my patience.


----------



## theoldfart

Red, another arrow in the heart of us tool chest junkies! Still really nice work, hope everything gets back to its home slot EVERY night!


----------



## mochoa

Very nice Red! How are you hanging the egg beater drill?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks guys. That MF drill is just hanging on the first rack I made (below). I'm just kinda trying new things as I go. That probably won't be it's permanent home. That's why I like the flexibility of the cleats. 









I still haven't found several tools from the shop remodel and shed build. Kinda ticked about my fav bevel gauge.


----------



## RGtools

This is killing me. I have got to get my dividers into my tool chest. August can't come soon enough.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Chisel till is done. What seemed like it would be a simple little build gave me a small portion of humble pie. Tried a few new techniques, some didn't go so well. Anyway pretty happy with how it turned out.









Pin nailed the little divider strips. My son's making a fake pouty face. 

























There she is. Even got the ugly yellow shop beater on the end (for everything you do with a chisel…that a chisel wasn't meant for).


----------



## theoldfart

*Red*, too many chisels for one guy, I'll take a few off your hands! Nice job though. So that's Lil' Red Knothead?
Must have sawdust in his veins like his dad.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, that's little Red. He's fake pouting because he had to wait like 2 min for me to help with his project


----------



## theoldfart

A man has to have his priorities.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Very nice BRK. It looks great.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks man. Now what to do with all my chisel rolls I probably just sell em. I dunno.


----------



## donwilwol

Now what to do with all my chisel rolls

you'll probably want to refill them. Then build some more tills, rinse and repeat.


----------



## AnthonyReed

^ The man with the plan. That guy always has a solution.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yes, I can always count on Don to enable my sickness….lol

Actually, I don't have a single vintage chisel. hmmmmm


----------



## donwilwol

Misery loves company.


----------



## TerryDowning

Keep the rolls and build a tool box.
Your kids appear to be young enough that they will have extra curricular activities all through their school years. I drug around a tool box with various tools with the HS band for the last 4 yrs. In the box was a set of beater chisels I wish I had a roll for.


----------



## CL810

Lil Red looks like he's getting ready to go ninja on something.


----------



## Mosquito

If you're looking for a place to ditch a chisel roll… my Ashley Iles chisels didn't come with one, just sayin' ;-)


----------



## mochoa

Dang Red your little man is Swole! I wish I was ripped like that. ;-)

Nice chisel holders to.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, that little buggers only 8yrs old and he already has a 6-pack. He's got some decent genetics to be an athlete from me and his mama. She's pretty bummed we didn't get any redheads.


----------



## donwilwol

I am ripped like that. Its just well hidden by several inches of beer induced insulation.


----------



## CL810

I saw this chest on the Benchcrafted blog about the Roubo project. It looks like Chris Schwarz's but there was no caption stating whose chest it was. I thought it looked way cool.


----------



## WayneC

Very nice looking box.


----------



## theoldfart

Clayton, I'll let you know. Seeing him on Saturday for a workshop.


----------



## RGtools

Sweet. I love the dutch chest. I want one for all my hand held pwer tools (and I don't care if that's an anacronism).


----------



## CL810

*OF *- I've said it before and I hope to say in often - You're a lucky man! Please let me know what he says - heck why don't you just tape the weekend!!

*Ryan*, there is only one thing that I am absolutely sure about wood working: Whatever works. I'm not a purist about power tools or hand tools. For my path I believe that power tools alone will limit what I can build. Therefore, I am trying to learn all I can about hand tools so that when the task calls for them I will be prepared. And when power tools are called for, I will use them.

Having said that, the more I learn how to use hand tools, the more I like them.


----------



## RGtools

^so agreed. I think knowing how to do thing by hand is a foundation block of good woodworking. The concepts apply to power as well, so it's on of those things that expands your whole skill set.


----------



## WayneC

Nice to work without the noise and dust of machinery.


----------



## CL810

OK, this is way cool. Tool chests of the French Oak Roubo Project.


----------



## WayneC

Very nice chests Clayton. Need to make some of those.


----------



## mochoa

CL I loved seeing all the tool chests. Thanks for the link.

You know what I love about hand tool work (and I agree that a hybrid approach is the best) is that there is no set up time. You just grab the wood and the tools and start working. Some things are slower but the work is continuous which makes up for a lot of the potential slowness. Plus it can be so relaxing!


----------



## theoldfart

Maur, except for a 45/405! Took me quite some time to do T&G.


----------



## mochoa

Ah, havent tried T&G on the #45 yet. That does seem tricky. But hey, it gives you an excuse to by a 48/49!


----------



## Mosquito

psh, #45 is faster when you get used to it ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

no way …..........


----------



## mochoa

Sounds like we need a plane off to prove who is faster!


----------



## mochoa

#45 vs. #48!


----------



## donwilwol

there is no set up on the 48. Use one side, flip it and use the other. I actually bought 2 #45s so if I decided to do T&G with it I'd could have both set up at the same time, (that and the fact the last one was $6).


----------



## theoldfart

TWO 45's serious OCD there!
Actually thinking about doing my deadman with the #10 H&R. masochism at its best.
When is the T&G off? Must have videos to back up claims!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oh, there is no claim to back up. No way a #45 can make faster T&G joints from start to finish than the #48.

No.

Way.

No iron to change and fettle. Just a 2-second fence flip, as Yoda said.


----------



## theoldfart

SO


----------



## theoldfart

Jus' sayin'


----------



## theoldfart

Would have been fun to watch!


----------



## donwilwol

bring it on. If I have to make a holster for my 48 I will. We'll go out western style


----------



## theoldfart

hell not me man, the other guy!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Sounds like something for Steffapalooza…


----------



## GMatheson

How about a matched pair of T&G woodies?


----------



## RGtools

What a perfect excuse to buy the T&G plane near me. 
*
Clayton.* I want the suitcase with the foam inserts. Can anyone tell me where to sourse the foam?


----------



## WayneC

This is pretty cool looking.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Industrial-Carpenters-Tool-Box-Wooden-Chest-/151093150554?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232dda835a


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, my fav line :
"The industrial style blends flawlessly with both modern and antique decor. "

I do like the box, and just maybe may make one. Thanks for the heads up


----------



## WayneC

It is always good to look at the old ones. Lots to learn from them.


----------



## Mosquito

lol I wasn't saying the #45 was faster than a #48/49, Mauricio just snuck a post in there between when I read and when I posted a response to TOF. I just meant that setup in general for the #45 gets faster when you get used to how you have to set it up.

But I also do T&G with 2 #45's as well


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Having said that, the more I learn how to use hand tools, the more I like them.

Little late Andy, but your post resonates. Sounds like we're on the same journey.

I can build furniture with only power tools. I did it for a couple years. I just didn't enjoy it as much as mixing in some hand tools. Not to mention, the quality of my work improved.


----------



## theoldfart

What's with you guys and two 45's? metal fetish? I haven't used half the blades on my 405! BTW Mos did you buy the H&R's from Patrick?
Kinda like getting the nosing tool free.


----------



## donwilwol

I've been looking for a matched set of wood t&g for a friend. They are pretty hard to find in the wild.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^ I'm a party pooper. I'll probably just get the LN.


----------



## WayneC

At some point that makes the most sense Red. Like going out to buy a #1….


----------



## Mosquito

I did not buy the H&R set :-( I was extremely tempted though


----------



## CL810

I nominate *Wayne *to build that chest in the link he posted. All in favor?

Man that looks good.

Sounds like the Shootout at the Mos Corral.


----------



## RGtools

I answered my own question.

Foam here.


----------



## RGtools

Or if you wanted to get really fancy, you could mold it to your individual tools.


----------



## mochoa

Wayne thanks for that link, I wish I could see that chest full of tools.

Mos, LOL, sure man whatever, back peddling on your #45 statement.  jk.


----------



## RGtools

This list is not for me, but for my grandfather who needs to pare down worse than I do. I was trying to be comprehensive in more the realm of general repair and some woodwork. He does not use planes (shame on him)

*Anything you would add or leave out?*

Utility Knife
Set Of Sharp Chisels
Tin Snips
Scissors
Crowbar
Wrecking Bar
Screwdiver-Flat Head-Large
Screwdiver-Phillips Head-Large
Screwdiver-Flat Head-Medium
Screwdiver-Phillips Head-Medium
Screwdiver-Flat Head-Small
Screwdiver-Phillips Head-Small
Drilling Bits For Electric Drill
Driving Bits For Electric Drill
Ratcheting Screwdriver (Optional)
Staple Gun
Nail Set For Fine Nails
Nail Set For Meduim And Large Nails
Flashlight
Putty Knife
Oil Stone For Sharpening. 
Voltage Tester
Flat Mill Bastard File
Round (Rat-Tale) File
Note Pad
Tape Measure
Level
Pencil
Pen
Stud Finder
Combination Square
Bevel Gauge
Carpenter'S Steal Square
Plumb Bob
Marking Gauge
Chalk Line
Vise-Grip (Locking Pliers)
Adjustable Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Diagonal Cutters
Electic Drill
Circular Saw
Orbital Sander
Belt Sander
Handheld Scrollsaw And Blades
Angle Grinder
Saftey Goggles
Work Gloves
Dust Mask
Hacksaw
Crosscut Handsaw
Pull Saw
Compas Saw
Coping Saw
Keyhole Saw
Back Saw
Miter Box
Sledge Hammer
Claw Hammer
Rubber Mallet
Tack Hammer
Wd-40
Duct-Tape
Rags
Superglue
Wood Glue
Plumbers Putty
Assortment Of Cheap Paint Brushes
One Roll Of Heavy Twine Or String
Adjustable Wrench
Socket Wrench With A Set Of Metric And Standard Sockets
Allen Wrench Set In Metric
Allen Wrench Set In Standard
Pipe Wrench
2 Sets Of Combination Wrenches In Metric
2 Sets Of Combination Wrenches In Standard


----------



## jmartel

You only need 2 things. Duct tape and WD-40. If it moves and it shouldn't: Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and it should: WD-40.


----------



## theoldfart

CL810, you posted a pic of a tool chest, post #434. It is Chris Schwarz's. Got to use several of the goodies from that box!


----------



## CL810

OF Any pics?


----------



## DaddyZ

My favorite Toolchest so far.


----------



## RGtools

I really like the way the lid got done on that one. That is a great idea man.


----------



## wormil

Someday I want to make my own version of the Mastermyr tool chest which was featured on an episode The Woodwrights Shop. Here's one by Oldwolf.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Been a while since I've made tools storage things for my french cleats. Just gotta decide how I want to make the planes tills…..hmmmm.


----------



## Loco

I like this in combo with pegboard panels close to the power tool.


----------



## RGtools

^Very awesome.


----------



## wormil

Went to organize my tools for the umpteenth time and decided it was time to get serious about building a tool chest so I wrote out a cut list and will price some wood tomorrow.


----------



## WayneC

Are you going to blog the build?


----------



## wormil

I'm sure I will. Sometimes I work at a snail's pace but I really want to get it done. My shop is a small building out back of the house and originally it was 4 rooms. I've been modifying it since but never really had a cohesive organization system. Getting all my hand tools into one place should be one big step in that direction then I can tackle other things like the wall shelves, wood storage, and whether to keep my wall workbenches or tear them out.


----------



## RGtools

What kind of storage are you thinking of, or are you still figuring that part out.

Don't feel bad if that is the case, I found a journal entry from 5 years ago where I debated the merits of various storage solutions. I am a consumate player at devils advocate…much to my detriment.


----------



## wormil

It will be a Dutch style tool chest. I've made a practical decision I'm not excited about but am going to do it anyway. I have several sheets of plywood I want to use up and get out of the way, one of them is 5/8 construction grade that I have absolutely no other use for, it's ugly but I plan on using it. I planned on painting the outside anyway so that won't make much difference but the inside will be ugly. I might go an extra step and line the inside with some 1/8" birch ply that I also want to use up (or maybe even 1/8" hardboard, thoughts?), then cover the visible edges with either veneer strips or solid wood. The tills etc. will be made from pine. In the end it won't be a tool chest people dream about but it will be perfectly serviceable.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Rick, the plan for plywood sounds fine to me, nothing wrong with the stuff at all. If I were using construction grade stuff for a toolchest, I'd consider a quality wood filler inside and out. Then sand, and build the piece. Final paint afterwards, inside and out. Or just leave the inside with maybe a tinted primer coat… Wouldn't be bad, and must easier than adding 1/8" ply.


----------



## wormil

Yeah, I'm considering painting the inside an off-white, the outside will be some other color… maybe dark green. Green & white were my high school colors! My idea about the 1/8" ply was to glue it on with contact cement then cut pieces to final size but painting might be easier. Using a wood filler will pretty much be mandatory. I have piles of wood everywhere in my shop that's in the way more than anything so I've decided not to buy more until I use most of what I have. At the end of the day my goal is to organize the shop so that I have room to make furniture again, it's been a long time since I've built nice things.


----------



## RGtools

+1 to the interior paint job and white would be a good choice as anything that help lighting inside a box is a GOOD thing. My chest is right under a flouresent light so I lucked out there, but a dark chest could present a headache in a different lighting situation.

I want to build a Dutch so bad. You guys make me jealous (and yes I realise I just finshed an ATC…I have a chest problem).


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan, Yes you do, me too. I'm going to build the small one for furniture class.


----------



## WayneC

Agree the dutch chests look really nice. Would love to build one.


----------



## CL810

I think you guys will be surprised by how quickly the Dutch tool chests can be made.


----------



## RobynHoodridge

Hope it's not a re-post. 
But how about this - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151621005195954&set=a.389595340953.166061.168208625953&type=1


----------



## RGtools

^ a very small kit.


----------



## WayneC

In the event you are not reading the handplane of your dreams thread. This Toolbox and tools just sold on the bay for $633. Lots of nice tools.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-TOOL-BOX-FULL-OF-VINTAGE-TOOLS-/111147988553?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e0efb649&nma=true&si=ZmIWp%252FkeSE09%252Fs2XRLRnfF7fIE4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


----------



## RGtools

I want to find one full of molding planes and carving tools. I still kick myself for passing up on the ond full of SJ addis carving tools for $125 (smacks forehead repeatedly while saying "stupid")


----------



## WayneC

Oh my god. Can I smack you too? LOL


----------



## GMatheson

At one auction I went to there was a full set of 10-15 Pfeil carving tools that sold for $40. I've been kicking myself for not bidding on it but didn't know much at the time.


----------



## RGtools

I'm glad I am not the only one who let a deal like that slide and then later said "What was I thinking?"


----------



## WayneC

Does anyone have thoughts on a good rolling base for a anarchist's tool chest style chest. I was thinking about a simple wheeled base but then started kicking around the idea of a base that has a pull out drawer for storage of hand planes. I searched the web but did not see anything similar to what I am thinking of.


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, I'd be concerned with raising the chest to far and having difficulty getting at the bottom stuff.


----------



## WayneC

I was thinking something like 10" from a height change perspective.

Something like this…


----------



## jimr

this is mine

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/chief3403/th_100_0164.jpg[/IMG][/URL[/URL]]


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, that looks quite workable. Just make sure to use some sort of rust inhibitor. The iron rusts fast, and wood acts like a sponge. I had a biblical weather event just after completing my chest, spent several days cleaning my planes.


----------



## WayneC

It is pretty dry here and I use wax on my tools. So far I have been doing ok.


----------



## Airframer

I have decided that my next long term project in my shop will be a tool cabinet. This will take a bit longer than the workbench I think because of our workup/deployment schedule next year :-(

So basically this is a message to prepare everyone for me to start living in this thread for a while lol..


----------



## CL810

*Wayne* I like this idea. I assume from the 10" height change the planes will be upright. If the chest is not permanently attached to the base it will make the chest more portable. Of course that is only important if you ever need to take your tools away from their home.

*Eric*, it's another curve in the slippery slope. Your fall continues.


----------



## Airframer

Clayton I am firmly planted at the bottom of the rabbit hole already. No where else to slip too lol!

Question though.. how does poplar stand up to use in cabinetry? My local HD has some poplar planks in the "special buy" bin for a pretty cheap price and was wondering if it would be worth while to stock up some of those for the case.


----------



## WayneC

Clayton. I was thinking the drawer was tall enough to hold planes standing up. Some of the 10" space would be for wheels so that it can be rolled in the shop.

I was planning for the chest to sit on top and be able to be lifted off.


----------



## CL810

*Eric, *poplar worked great for me. Here is my chest. Brandon's chest was made with pine as was Chris Schwarz's chest. I guess it just comes down to personal preferences.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Poplar is, IMHO, quite evenly (and densely) grained and would work well for a tool chest. Most times it's painted, as it doesn't take stain evenly. VERY general statements, others are likely to disagree, you're mileage may vary.


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, Ryan(op) and I both used poplar. Chris Schwarz's most recent blog (http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/08/29/11-carcases-in-2-days/) looks like poplar ATC's as well. Pine would be lighter but I still prefer poplar For some reason people who use poplar can't make a decision on paint vs stain, curious!


----------



## Airframer

Sweet. Thanks guys. I'll go see if there are any left tomorrow.


----------



## donwilwol

I've used poplar a lot. I've made everything from cabinets to tool boxes. Its not oak, but its not bad. I agree with Smitty, most other people paint it. It takes Danish oil well.

Here s my last poplar tool box project.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I like poplar too. It's great to work with. I have no problem getting clear, very wide boards.


----------



## Mosquito

I like poplar as well. I've made a table, clock, various other things, and my portable plane till is poplar. I enjoy working with it, and it's relatively strong, and around here, cheap.


----------



## TerryDowning

Poplar is often used in furniture (behind the scenes) for structural components due to it's tight even grain, and relatively low cost. Why use the showy stuff for things you don't see? Toolbox is a great place to use poplar.


----------



## Airframer

OK, stupid question of the day time…

When building a dovetailed cabinet shell….. how are the front and back panels attached to the walls, top and bottom? The best I can figure is a dado but what about raised panel doors?


----------



## RGtools

*ERIC*

FYI, My chest, shown on top, is also poplar. If you get it clear and thick enough it is a GREAT chest material.

Now on to your other question. Holy, crap there are a lot of ways to do this. The best one in my opinion is to rabbet in a frame and panel back. You get a ton of glue surface and still accommodate wood movement. But it really does depend on the scale at which you are working. On a smaller cabinet I would use a single piece of wood in a groove…like a drawer bottom. On bigger pieces that don't warrant the frame and panel touch, I like to use a ship-lapped or t&g back nailed into a rabbet (cross ailed if I can).


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Ryan. I will have to Google some of that terminology but that is a good starting point.

I picked up a mess of Poplar today. Grabbed 10 3/4×7 1/4×48 boards which should get me started. They were in the "special buy" bin and work out to be around $3 a BF for S4S boards so not too bad.










My rough plan is to build a cabinet similar to this old tool cabinet from work except slightly taller and deeper.


----------



## RGtools

Cross Nailed not "cross ailed" I have a keyboard problem at this hour of the day.


----------



## RGtools

For a tool chest back I would go shiplap. I think that is the best way to be able to mount several cleating systems without constricting wood movement.

That will be a pretty chest.


----------



## Airframer

Started a blog series for this now. I'm hoping it doesn't drag on as long as the last lol. 43 ENTRIES for that stupid workbench!

http://lumberjocks.com/Airframer/blog/37600


----------



## shampeon

One nice thing about poplar that most people miss is that the sort of sickly green color ages into a nice medium brown, particularly with oil or shellac. But they paint it before they can see it age.


----------



## theoldfart

*Ryan*, have you given any thought to making a till that would take up the space over the saw tills? I'm thinking about a lift out unit that would double as a sort of traveling chest. Just the minimum amount of tools to take to a wood working class.
Thoughts, ideas, suggestions, obscene gestures!


----------



## kdc68

Photo from M.S.WOODcraft via Facebook
v


----------



## WayneC

I saw this cute little box in an Antique store yesterday. It was perhaps 24L x 14"w x 12" h


----------



## RGtools

*Kevin* Many a time have I thought about that. I still have not come up with a good solution though. The best I have come up with so far is to make simple lids for the trays, Then you can set the trays in your car having added a saw or two.

I still think that you could replace the saw till with the traveling tote, but then you end up putting your core set of tools on the bottom of your chest. I guess if you could lower the saw till a bit you could fit the deepest of your trays on top and turn that into your pull out tote…I would have to draw that out a few times; I feel like I am missing something.


----------



## RGtools

Speaking of the English chest. Has anyone yet figured out a good place to put a drawknife in thing that is satisfactory? Ditto on the hatchet.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan, I still have a bit of space open in the bottom of the chest, trying to figure out how to use it. Thanks for the thoughts above. Could you hang them on the back of the saw till?


----------



## RGtools

I worry about knocking into them with a plane if I put them there. Right now I am thinking about putting a cleat for them in the back of the chest, since right now I have no moulding planes that can liver there. But even that seems a bit off.

I might have to simply try something out, see how it works, and tinker with it.


----------



## theoldfart

I have cleats on both sides of the bottom, one to hold my 71 the other to hold a joiner fence. Maybe on the back wall for the draw knife? The front of mine tas a bow saw . Bought i based on your comments about ECE. Still trying to master it!


----------



## theoldfart

Addendum to my last post :



























Which leaves :


----------



## RGtools

I never thought to put anything there! that would be a good place for the router, and perhaps a shoulder plane. I have got to get started on cleats and dividers. Now that I am done with my "interruption" project, I can finally finish that chest up.

RE the bow saw. Did you grab the joinery saw or the heavy rip saw? Either way, make yourself a small set of winding sticks to help you get the blade straight. This will solve 95% of the issues you will have with that tool. The other 5% are the result of muscle memory. If you find yourself drifting to the right with your bow saw, it's because your hand is out of alignment with the blade (assuming you have the frame kinked to one side for unlimited ripping) and your body is trying to compensate for the weight. Practice kills that problem…but then you might find yourself drifting left with a backsaw. Muscle memory now plays a role in reverse.

I use slightly different hand holds for a back saw VS a bow saw, and that seems to help my body figure out what tool it's working with.


----------



## theoldfart

This showed up on Chris Schwarz's blog:
http://northplatte.craigslist.org/tls/3965924953.html


----------



## RGtools

The chisels are so pretty.

I like the way he did the plane cubby, that whole tool chest is set up very differently than your standard fare. Kind of interesting to see the other ways to get things done.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Man, I've been rust hunting in north platte, and never seen much. Of course it was stolen from council bluffs


----------



## RPhillips

*AF* nice to see that new bench getting some use


----------



## RGtools

I finally started on dividing my trays. This was my short jaunt into the shop today.

I can't believe what a difference this makes.










This shot should give some construction clues to this quick and dirty job.










Chisels are pretty:










I am trying to organize my chest in order of priority and not necessarily tray by tray. I think my need to do this section next:


----------



## theoldfart

*Ryan* I have yet to figure out how to organize my layout stuff so I'll be watching!


----------



## DanKrager

Ryan, This thread is about encouragement. I think the bottom drawer looks organized…what's wrong with it?

DanK


----------



## RGtools

I just hate all my sharp, pointy, dividers knocking into each other when I slide the tray back and forth.


----------



## CL810

Here's something to think about.










I came across this box/chest and thought it had an interesting top. Don't know if it is relevant for tool chests or not.


----------



## RGtools

^I would love to see that open.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

All I heard was, "I'd love to get a peak under there…"

Now it is starting to sound like toolbox porn around here….LOL


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ahh…I'm much funnier in person. Or so I tell myself.

Started drawin' up my plane till today. No software for me. I still still design old school. Solid sides…or panels….hmmm. 









The torch is for when I really don't like how its going.

Oh, don't think I posted my little spokeshave hanger yet.


----------



## theoldfart

Red, thank God you draw. I thought I was the only Luddite out there! 1/4 graph paper and a straight edge rules (pun intended)


----------



## Airframer

Nope.. not the only one. Sketchup made my head hurt too much. Graph paper is much more user friendly for me lol.

BTW… my tool cabinet is still just a pile of lumber right now. Have a few preliminary projects that need to get out of the way first. That and my shop needs a SERIOUS cleaning before I embark on another epic build of any sort lol.


----------



## theoldfart

Phew, I feel adequate now!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Tried sketchup a few times, it's a no-go for me, too.


----------



## theoldfart

Another up side to drawing by hand, drafting sets at flea markets are a dime a dozen; rust hunting nirvana. Think I paid 2.00 for mine!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

The extent of my drawing prowess:


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, great perspective!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yep, mitred dovetails shot straight on, no depth… I had confidence (note that was done in ink!)


----------



## theoldfart

My hero!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lol…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

"By hand and eye" is next on my docket to read. I've heard that book encourages us to draw, design, and draw some more. I'm sure designing via cpu works for many, but not for me either brothers.

There are some pretty good artists in my fam. I'm not one of them. But I try to tap into their talent.

I'm gonna have to keep an eye out for a good drafting set Kev. My setup reeks of cheese.


----------



## theoldfart

*Red*Wish you said something sooner, saw a couple this weekend. I'll be back out next Sunday, let you know.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Alright Kev. I don't get out rust hunting much. If you see a good one, pick it up. I'm good for it.


----------



## theoldfart

See what I can do. Guess I talk too much, 1,000'th post!


----------



## WayneC

Good thread for it to happen on.


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, you betcha' Goodnight all!


----------



## mochoa

McGuire weighs in on the subject. He made it in one day. I like it, look at all that texture.


----------



## RGtools

Batten's equal awesome.

I am glad there are other people who doodle. I have several journals and a could hundred post it notes with desigh crap on them. My dad hated that. He wanted to know everything when He started, I start from a logical place and work my way through things. We both get to the same place.


----------



## CL810

I knew in 5 minutes I wanted nothing to do with Sketchup. Maybe I'll change some day but right now rough sketches that work into detail drawings work for me.

*Red*, I'm looking forward to your thoughts on By Hand and Eye. I've read most of it and have mixed thoughts about the book.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

By Hand and Eye is the first 'woodworking' book I've not been able to finish reading. I'll try again, but don't feel compelled to…


----------



## JayT

I've started "drawing" my plane till, too.










I doodle on paper and plan in Sketchup. Sorry guys, I know I lose galoot points for using a computer to plan projects. It's just too easy to use.


----------



## theoldfart

"TOO EASY"? Blasphemer, as I hang my head in embarrassed shame ;{


----------



## jmartel

I wish I had solidworks on my home computer. That's even easier than Sketchup.


----------



## TerryDowning

Plan?? What's that??

I guess I take a more organic approach and plan as I go. I'll start with photos or perhaps a sketch (Usually just an idea in my head) and take it from there.


----------



## Mosquito

What, Jay, no T-track? ;-)


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Kev- you crack me up.

Uh-oh. Mixed reviews on "By Hand and Eye." I'm looking forward to some direction on design because I generally take the, "ehh..it's all been done before" philosophy.

It's taking me a while to get through "The Joiner and the Cabinetmaker." I enjoy the commentary more than the original text.


----------



## GMatheson

I draw my plans by hand too. Here is my latest example. I just draw enough to get my idea and most of my dimensions down and then design the rest on the fly.










Planning a saw till to hold a combination of about 20 saws behind some plexiglass doors to keep the dust out. On the wall beside it I plan on putting a plane till that holds maybe 17-18 planes plus a shelf underneath to hold the planes that don't fit in a till easily. The plane till will also have plexi doors.


----------



## JayT

Still debating on the track, Mos. I could incorporate them, but might steal your thunder 

Wasn't trying to shame you, Kevin, just saying that drawing out a plane till is a heck of a lot easier than my other current Sketchup project-planning the layout, fixture and product placement of an 18,000 sq ft hardware store remodel & expansion.










Now I'm trying to make you feel bad ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

It's working sob


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^LOL, can't wait to buy Kev a beer one day.

I've realized that I can keep up with some of the tech stuff. It just doesn't interest me much.


----------



## theoldfart

Some day Red, in the interim I can buy my own. Working on a scotch ale this evening, cheers!


----------



## CL810

*Smitty *I'm in the same boat. I started it the 1st, read about two thirds of it, and cannot pick it back up.


----------



## RGtools

What turned you guys off to the book? Tolphin is usually pretty insightful. I am curious because I seem to take a similar approach as does but have not read the book.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hard question, Ryan, for a couple of reasons. One is that it's been a while since I picked it up… Second is, I don't want to dissuade anyone from reading the book thinking it just may be 'me, not you' that isn't 'getting it.'

But that's it, in a nutshell. There's much content, and it's eased into alright, but there are some notations used in the illustrations, for example, that are recurring but never explained. The further into the book I got, the more aggravating that was; I felt left out, or that I had missed something everyone should know. Never took art appreciation, maybe would have learned it there. Oh well.

Second, maybe it moves too slow when it comes to making a 'big point.' I'm more used to narrative with a clear purpose. I can read a few chapters, though, knowing something is going to come together. But in this one (as I recall, see above) there weren't many 'points' being made that kept my interest. And know this second point is tenuous at best. All I can point to is a feeling of boredom when reading, and this is an attempt to explain that feeling.


----------



## CL810

+ 1 what Smitty said. The points I did "get" were way overwritten.

*Ryan*, pm me your address and I'll send you the book. Would like to hear your thoughts.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

What did you guys think of "The Joiner and the Cabinetmaker"...if you've read it.


----------



## donwilwol

I've heard good stuff about "The Joiner and the Cabinetmaker"… waiting for reponses to.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I really liked that book, Rojo. Re-read it more than a couple times, just for the halibut.


----------



## mochoa

Id like to get the Joiner & Cabinet maker audio book read by Underhill.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Read by Roy? That would be good Maur. I'm about a 3rd of a way through it. I get a lot more reading done in the winter when there's no yard work.

Here's what I got done this afternoon on the plane till. My mortising machine couldn't reach some of the mortises so I got some good practice chopping by hand. Not the best through mortises I've made, but not bad. 

















Trying use up some of my uglier oak on shelves that will never be seen. 
The jack planes will go on the shelf below. no 6-8s above. Smoothers will be in a different till.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan, take a look as well as anyone with an ATC:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/89441
Familiar idea? Looks very workable


----------



## RGtools

I thought The Joiner & Cabinetmaker had a good narrow scope that was explored quite fully. It covers some historical elements, contains an interesting story, and then of course, gets down to cases on woodworking. The sections where the author recreates the original projects are well worth a few reads as they contain quite a few useful tidbits on effective handwork.

Also in the same vein, I would recommend The Art of Joinery, by Joseph Moxon with commentary by Christopher Schwarz.

Edit:
For those people who are not fans for Schwarz, try Robert Wearing's The Essential Woodworker.


----------



## kiyoshigawa

I'm in the stages of planning a good portable tool box for myself, as I tend to take my tools from my apartment to a shared shop space I have access to occasionally. The old cardboard banker's box I've been using is starting to fall apart, so I figure I'm going to need to make something better before it explodes.

I've outlined the basic idea in this image, and I'm curious what your opinions are on it. Hopefully the drawing is somewhat clear. Sorry if the words are a bit hard to read, I'll be happy to answer any questions.


----------



## RGtools

The overall idea is good, but I have one nitpick. You may want to shoot for 29" to make it easier to get through most doors.

Hope you share the build with us here.


----------



## kiyoshigawa

Ryan, Good call on the doors. Most doors I use now are 36" (about 35" clear), but there are some 30" doors about as well. I also need to check and make sure i can fit it into my car easily at these dimensions as well.

I definitely plan to share the build, as soon as I finish my workbench in the other thread.


----------



## theoldfart

Tim, not sure about French Cleats in a portable unit. They would need to more secure on the off chance the thing falls over!


----------



## DanKrager

10-4 on the French cleats. I've seen a system that resembles a slot wall. The attachments are fitted with an up-lip rabbet that slips into the slot by tilting the attachment to engage them, then down to secure, just like a peg board hook only linear. Bouncing is unlikely to scramble them like a french cleat would. I wish I could remember where I saw it because I was impressed. I think it was a magazine like Shop Notes, Woodsmith, or something like that. The portable tool case that was presented as part of the system was pretty slick!
DanK


----------



## kiyoshigawa

I was actually planning something like this for the cleats to keep them in place. Since I don't plan to move shelves around a lot, this should work well and be fairly stable:










I'll likely use a bolt with a hex head and make sure I can get at it with an allen wrench from the top, and the trapped nut below will keep it from slipping.

(Whoops, pretend the cleat isn't backwards in the picture please.)


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That would work. but maybe overly engineered. I've got french cleats in my shop. If I really don't want it to come off, I just drive a screw through the cleat horizontally (about where the middle arrow is in your pic). They don't go anywhere when you do that.


----------



## RGtools

^+1


----------



## Airframer

Perfect timing on your post Tim. That is more or less what I have planned for my tool cabinet but slightly deeper (mostly in the doors) and I am still struggling with a way to lift it onto some legs of some sort. I am tempted to just put a tilt back feature on it like some of the old Fender guitar amps have and call it planned but that just doesn't feel good enough lol.

I figure with the number of tools I want to fit into it plus the case it's self mine will probably top 200+ pounds filled and it not being easy to pack into a moving truck is not an option.

Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## theoldfart

OK everybody check this out:
http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/09/12/long-overdue-tool-chest-storage-stuff/


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Interesting stuff.


----------



## TerryDowning

More than one box AF!

Watch that HHG weight.


----------



## Airframer

I think I have a fairly solid plan now finally. Broke out my "sketch up" and have some rough plans drawn up. Good enough that I feel confident enough to start cutting wood and get started building something now at least.




























Anyone see either any room for improvement or any reason this might not work?


----------



## JGM0658

Somehow I still do not understand the idea of a "traveling" tool box that requires a fork lift to move. Seems to me a lot of those boxes he showed could have been smaller if the tools were better chosen. For example, 3 marking gauges in one box?!? really? A jointer plane? I know one thing, when I make my tool box I won't be making anything CZ makes.


----------



## mochoa

Tim, is the idea behind your traveling box that it can be used as a wall cabinet in the future? The reason I ask is that I've built a wall cabinet and its nice but you have to spend much more time making tool holders and I think its harder to use the space as efficiently as possible. I still like mine, I have more wall space than floor space.

For a portable option, I would prefer a rolling chest because its easier to throw tools into drawers. A chest with the same wheel/handle set up like an ice chest would be really slick.

Just some food for thought, otherwise it's a really cool looking design.


----------



## Airframer

Maur - I can't speak for Tim but the reasoning behind mine is that I don't own this house so a hanging cabinet would be too permanent of a structure than I am comfortable with. I want to be able to have all my tools contained in a space that can be easily packed up and moved across the country if needed.

I prefer a cabinet over a chest because it is less likely to become a work surface that will trap my tools under a glue up in progress or some other project spew.

Those are my thoughts on it at least.


----------



## TerryDowning

I know the move often issue well AF. 15 yrs Active Duty AF and traveled the world. Fortunately most bases had decent wood working shops so tool collecting was not an issue and with a wife 3 kids and my weight limit not really an option. I did have some tools but everything was kept in boxes for easy transport. Circular saw, 'lectric router, my trusty workmate for a bench, etc. I did have some minor hand tools saws, a plane (I honestly don't remember which one, but not good one and I don't have it any more. It was one of those "never made it to the next destination" items) I do recommend sturdy locks for your particular case as movers (and everyone else involved in the military moving process) can be a sticky fingered. make sure they are all inventoried and then have the movers box the tool box, tag and then sign across the tape so you know if it's been removed or cut. DO NOT let them mark it "Packed By Owner" (PBO) that's just an invite to theft and since it's PBO, not covered by a claim (DAMHIKT)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Jorge, there's certainly truth to the 'problem' of having a chest that's too heavy to move. The english style that is the basis for ATC holds all tools needed to make fine furniture, per Schwarz. And while it's capable of travel, it's nowhere close to the concept of 'portable.' For that it'd be a small subset of tools, and that's the rub. To me, it's all about the task at hand that dictates what's needed in a traveling box. And that moving target is what's kept traveling tool boxes at arm's length, figuratively. The dutch chest comes closest, though, and while not portable, they're luggable.

Good topic to ponder.


----------



## theoldfart

I watched Chris S and another student carry their small Dutch without much problem and they both had a full compliment of joinery tools. BloodandSalt has a good compromise that would work for me. I don't take the same tools all of the time, but rather take project specific items like Smitty alluded to above


----------



## kiyoshigawa

Maurico - My situation for at least the next 8-9 months is that I'm working out of my apartment most evenings, and out of a larger shared shop space when I can find the time to make it down (usually 2 times per week max). Aside from the jointer, I'm already carrying all these tools back and forth as is, so I figured a bit of extra weight on wheels would be easier than the flimsy cardboard box I'm using now. I also figured that since I was going to need my saws, the height was set based on them and the jointer (that I've still not technically won on ebay yet) happened to fit as well.

I figured that it'd be a good project to get my hand-made joinery up to scratch through repetition, leave me with something practical that will keep my main tools easily accessible and be usable as a wall cabinet in the future when I can afford a house of my own. It's less about being able to set up shop anywhere, and more about being able to move between two specific places with all the tools I use regularly.


----------



## JGM0658

So the "small" Dutch required 2 people to carry. I think this just proves my point. I guess if you work alone you are SOL.

CS is very good at exploiting nostalgia, but clearly he has no experience with on site work. He is still young, but let me assure you, when you reach your 50's and above, bending your knees to look for something inside a dark cubbyhole is not fun, that applies to your back as well. My tool boxes (3 of them) are capable of being lifted by one person, carry all the tools necessary to fit a piece made at the shop, they have stands to be at waist high level and are pretty enough to impress customers.

One of these days I will post a picture of them, they are based on the campaign style furniture. Like the Roubo bench, the ATC is more about nostalgia than practicality.


----------



## theoldfart

Jorg, you misunderstood my comment! Chris and the student each carried their own chests by themselves. No grunting, struggling or sweating. I'm over 60 and I can still bend over quite well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

"Like the Roubo bench, the ATC is more about nostalgia than practicality."

Ouch.

I'm hoping you're referring to the nostalgia of the French Oak Roubo Project and not the form overall. I love my Roubo bench. It's not on-site kind of stuff, but sure addresses all hand tool work I've thrown at it.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

edit- Smitty beat me to it.

Like the Roubo bench, the ATC is more about nostalgia than practicality.

Ya, I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on that one.


----------



## TerryDowning

I think a design that is hundreds of years in use pretty much passes most practicality tests.

As for tool boxes, I don't think there is a 1 size fits all perfect tool box. There is what works for you.

Just because something does not work for you does NOT mean it is impractical, just not workin' for you.


----------



## CL810

There is a difference in transportable and portable and the definitions are specific to each individual. I made my ""Dutch tool chest portable for me. I pick it up and load into and unload from my pickup. And like Jorge i'm deeper in my 50's than i want to be. I used drawers instead of shelves for personal reasons.

It is wise to avoid absolutes. But I think it's safe to say that a chest that conforms to each individuals requirements is a hit. Is that chest an ATC, a Dutch chest, or a Stanley fatmax on wheels? I have no idea what everyone else's chest is or should be. And I'm guessing that's why Ryan asked "What does *your* dream toolbox look like?" Instead of "Tell me what toolbox I should have."


----------



## RGtools

*Jorge G* My back was in a nice little spasm today. After a hot shower I got moving around so it would not lock up worse. Believe it or not I was able to get to all the cracks and crannies of my ATC without pain (no deep knee bends either…they don't work that way).

That being said if I had to move my tools to a job-site routinely that would not have built my chest that way, I would do the broken up route as you suggested. In fact, I have an idea that I have been rattling around to make a small travel kit, just do to work out of the back of the car (small stuff of course) on a lunch break.

Here is the idea: one hard metal case (18×14x5ish) filled with custom polyfoam that can store one plane, a few spokeshaves, a few chisels, a saw, and various odds ends (marking, measuring, boring). The thing would not rattle and I would not have to worry about heat damage from being left in the car for hours on end. Oddly, it would not have a scrap of wood in it (but would require extensive woodworking to create the foam molds). That and an English are some of my dream chests.

I would LOVE to see your solution, as that is the reason I started the thread. As far as critiquing my chest. Go ahead, it's not going to make me like it any less, and your thoughts might influence someone to build a chest that suits their work (more closely resembling yours than mine). Different perspectives are kind of the point.

We all have different goals. How do you want to achieve yours?


----------



## JGM0658

and not the form overall.

I always thought the Roubo was overkill in present day. Back then they had beams and slabs and it was practical as well as feasible, but really, laminating 6 inch legs? Having a top that weights 1000#?

I thought long and hard about this, even bought CS workbench book. In the end I thought the Scandinavian style bench a la Tage Fried or Krenov was a more elegant and practical bench (with a few modifications). Take away the tool well (which is nothing but a dust and shavings collection system), add a dead man and the Scandinavian style is perfect. I can plane drawer sides with the shoulder vise at bench height, I would like to see someone do the same on a Roubo. The tail vise objection on the Scandinavian bench is moot now a days, back then the way it was made it was likely to hang, now a days with a LN tail vise, it is just as good and more practical than the Roubo wagon vise.

Of course this is a personal preference made based on 3 previously made benches. I do not think the Roubo bench is "bad", but simply a bench that was made popular by a magazine writer.

Just because something does not work for you does NOT mean it is impractical, just not workin' for you.

This is exactly the same opinion as CS and someone who does not make a living doing this. Get back to me when you have to transfer your tools in and out of the truck a few times and tell me I am wrong and why. I think I still have the pics of my shop posted, you can see my truck there, it is pretty low to the ground and it is still a PITA to load and unload tools.

I'm over 60 and I can still bend over quite well.

Me too, I just don't see the need to over do it, I would like to still be able to do it when I am 80… ;-)

CL810, you did an awesome job on the Dutch chest! Which was another thing I thought was funny in the CS video. All the tools just laying in the boxes, what is th epoint of doing a tool chest if that is how you are going to transport the tools? Might as well just throw them in a bag and move on..


----------



## wormil

I really don't understand criticism about size/portability, there is precedent in tool boxes/chests and machinery which isn't unique to woodworking. Anyone that works with a large variety of tools and needs to be very mobile is going to have a completely different setup than someone who just needs their tools to be movable. and those two will be different from someone who never moves their tools. I could list many examples if that is really necessary but it shouldn't be; the situation isn't unique to woodworking. Even our machinery follows the same example with small, portable, bench saws that a guy can take home every day, to contractor saws that offer more but still can be transported, then finally to cabinet saws which are meant to be stationary. I believe this criticism is really more about finding fault with Schwarz than about the portability of tool chests.


----------



## JGM0658

A traveling tool chest should be just that, shouldn't it? What is so hard to understand? I have no animosity towards CS, but I am not blinded by him either.


----------



## wormil

You kept bringing him up which lead me to believe that your criticism was directed more toward Schwarz than the chests. I know quite a few tradesmen with tools chests that they transport everyday that are larger and heavier than the Dutch chest. The carpenter I hired last summer had a big 'ol tool box in the back of his truck. Mechanics have tall rolling chests. Everywhere in life we have different sizes of things for different purposes.

All I can tell you is why I plan on building a chest… I'm out of wall space, I have limited floor space, and there may come a time when I build a new shop. A chest will store my tools, keep them in one place, be mobile to move around the shop, and portable enough to move out of the shop entirely. Personally, it doesn't matter why other people choose to, or not to, build a chest; I'm only interested in the process.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Don't blame the chest as a solution, but don't expect it to hold everything either, or to be a one-style-fits-all affair. Regarding sizes and partitioning, this from an early copy of *Practical Woodworker*:

"... the actual selection of these carried naturally varies very much with the nature of the work to be done, and therefore the construction of fitments likely to suit every possible grouping is impossible."

Speaks well to Rick's point about various chests / boxes across the trades.

And now, picture time. How about a couple of drawer sides being worked at a Roubo-style bench?


----------



## RGtools

^clearly staged 

I just wanted to add a few thoughts.

1. The goal of building my chest was not to make my tools portable. It was to keep the dust and spiders off my stuff while I was gone through the week and to get all my high quality hand tools in one spot. The fact that I can move the chest around my shop and easily move it to another shop is a bonus. I can't move my tool-chest to another shop alone, but I can't move my king size bed, my bandsaw, my workbench, or any of my armoires alone either. The chest is not made to move daily, I don't need that. But it can move with me to a new home if I want.

Other solutions could work, but they did not suit me. I looked.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

They're drawers, and they're being worked in the bench. I stop and take pictures all the time.

First one is part of the tool chest build, second is from the roubo cabinet, third is the wall hung tool cabinet. Couldn't find a pic working the drawer from my mission-style oak nightstand, but I worked it in the same way.


----------



## RGtools

I know Smitty. I wish I remembered to take the camera along more often. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## JGM0658

I know quite a few tradesmen with tools chests that they transport everyday that are larger and heavier than the Dutch chest

Yeah I know people who have snap on chests in their trucks, so what? If they are kept permanently there. Like I said you seem to have a problem understanding the concept of "traveling."

Other solutions could work, but they did not suit me. I looked.

RG seems we have a failure to communicate…  I don't find the idea of a tool chest, or specifically the ATC "wrong" or not worth pursuing. The only thing that irks me is that it is being represented as a "traveling" chest, or that this is how people in the past transported their tools. Anybody that actually has to work on site knows this is foolish. A1Jim, who is a professional woodworker, started a thread about making a traveling tool chest for himself, some of the choices presented in there where far more appropriate than the ones given by CS. And in fact it was one of the tool boxes there that gave me my idea, in the past I used to carry my tool inside a couple of Pelican cases, but they were too heavy once they were filled with all the tools.

Smitty, LOL, not bad….


----------



## wormil

Disagreement is not a failure of understanding, it just means I disagree. And you're back to bringing up Schwarz and his traveling chest again. (BTW, he does travel with it.) You didn't convince me that this isn't about finding fault with him, if anything you've reinforced it.


----------



## GMatheson

I know I'm really interested to see Jorge's solution to the traveling tool chest. I hope it's a wagon for all his "project" dogs to pull.


----------



## RGtools

It was never presented to me or by me as a traveling chest. I think my point was that it does not have to be to be a traveling chest to be considered a valid form. It works for me even while it would not work for you.

That being said; I would like to keep this particular forum on a positive track. Panning someone's ideas just because they don't do the work for a living does not help that. Neither does trying to discredit somebody because of their project card.

*Jorge*, the quickest way out of the cycle is to show us your solution.


----------



## GMatheson

I will apologize if my comment came across as an attempt to discredit or otherwise insult. I truly am interested in seeing all the different tool storage options. The dogs pulling a wagon was just my lame attempt at humor (no one ever accused me of being funny).


----------



## todd628

I have chosen to store mine in a rather large rolling drawer chest. I have not completed the front
it will receive an American Chestnut face to match my big bench.


























The first 2 photos are my main tool chest, the second one is a new chest that will house mostly hardware.
However I decided to use the top section for router bits, and either saw blades or shaper cutters.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^ooohhh….ahhhh….I like that Todd. Well done.

Yes, yes, back to what our dream tool boxes would look like. Like I posted early in the thread, a tool chest isn't my preference, But I can certainly understand why others would like one.

No, my tool chest is….my shop. Well, at least one wall of it, not to mention the drawers I want to put under my joinery bench. I don't need mobility. I never work outside of my shop.


----------



## CL810

Todd: now that's a tool chest!!


----------



## DanKrager

Todd, when you tug on the big chest to move it, does the front tend to rack any? I've considered this open front design but was afraid of it.
DanK


----------



## todd628

It did at first so I added better castors, That made all the difference in the world


----------



## RGtools

*Todd*, that is an awesome set up. I need to do something similar for my small collection of router bits.

Did a bit of cleanup on the marking measuring tray. The good new about totally open space is that you can change things on the fly, the bad news is every once in a while you have to combat entropy.


----------



## wormil

I happened upon this sawhorse toolbox while looking for something else. This style of toolbox seems to have been popular back in the 30's and 40's. Some have a drawer, this one has a pop out tool tray which I really like. It also has hinged feet that pop out for stability. I can't imagine it being a very good sawhorse but I find it interesting as a small portable box.


----------



## DanKrager

Rick, that toolbox design is interesting. I wonder if the swing out feet hardware would be available anywhere or if that would have to made custom somehow?
DanK


----------



## wormil

I've never seen feet like that but they wouldn't be too hard to make with a scroll or bandsaw and some chisels.

Here are some similar boxes.










This is from Deltagram 16-1, which I don't have but I found this picture. If anyone has that Deltagram, I'd like the plans.


----------



## JGM0658

You didn't convince me that this isn't about finding fault with him

Good thing I do not give a rat's ass about what you think…. ;-)


----------



## Airframer

Officially staying out of that mess..

Back on topic.. First panel glueup in progress on my cabinet. Not sure what the issue is with the green tones in poplar but I kinda dig it. I tried to "bookmatch" this as best I could to showcase that very property lol.


----------



## wormil

I never minded the greenishness of poplar, just that it eventually turns brown.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Honest question Jorge….If you don't like ATC style tool chests, and you don't care what anybody else as to say on the matter, then why start chiming in on a forum where the majority of folks are making ATC chests?

Self-punishment? I mean, your not the kinda guy who gets up in the morning and kicks himself in the nuts are ya?


----------



## Mosquito

^ he's just missing his old buddy Lance lol

-

I don't mind the green either, Eric. I've also purposely picked out a few pieces of poplar that had some crazy mineral streaks in it, because I liked the look


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, I like the greens and purples:









It's whats keeping me from deciding on how to finnish the outside!


----------



## RGtools

I finally hopped off the fence and applied a blended finish to the outside of mine. I went with 1 part Tung, 1 part Spar Varnish, 1 part turpentine. It looks fantastic, but it might need a few coats to get things even. I still need to get the bottom done, but that means emptying the chest.

I might just spray paint the bottom since that is the area most prone to bugs and that would be a quick way to keep them and the moisture out.

Eric, looking good man.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan, we need 8×10 color glossy photo's with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one!


----------



## CL810

Now THIS is a tool cabinet.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Double post. Not sure which forum it applies to. I'm just so darn happy to finish a project after my recent half-doners.


----------



## JGM0658

If you don't like ATC style tool chests

Whoa, I never said I did not like the ATC chest, I stated that as it was popularized by CS it was not the best option for on site work and/or traveling. As it is I think the ATC is fine, with some modifications it would be awesome.

and you don't care what anybody else as to say on the matter

Again, you are assuming. I stated that I don't care what Rick M thinks, that does not apply to all on this thread.

then why start chiming in on a forum where the majority of folks are making ATC chests?

And here you are generalizing, the title of the thread is "What Does Your Dream Toolbox Look Like?" Not what your favorite ATC looks like? And this is why I posted here, I was hoping to see different examples of tool chests, maybe even one that would show innovation and/or clever designs. Maybe this thread should be renamed your favorite ATC or Dutch chest.


----------



## RGtools

*Jorge*, Note the post above yours. Not an ATC or Dutch. Tone goes a long way. Keep it constuctive and you are likley to get a constructive result. Please share your ideas, but respect others. That goes for everyone here.

I invite you yet again, to share your solution to the traveling issue here. I doubt there is a person here who would not appreciate it.

All tool chests welcome. Let's see yours.


----------



## Mosquito

I look forward to finishing up all the other little projects floating around. I can't wait to build a tool storage chest. It probably won't travel far, or often, so I'm not sure I'll be that worried about how well it travels, but somewhere to keep tools out of all the dust that settles on them currently would be nice


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm just now finishing work on a tool chest. Not one of my dreams, necessarily, although I have dreamed of finishing it once or twice over the past year… Anyway, with the sliding tills in place and the bottom partition deployed I see opportunity. Here's the space I'm talking about:










That space has been filled with a pull-out tote, and that's cool. But what I'm envisioning has some measure of tool holding and the ability to extend legs and stand as a saw bench of sorts, on equal height to the chest. Sturdy enough to sit on, with a couple drawers or what not inside, maybe a hinged lid in that case would be easier. It would slip in and out of the space without issue, keeping drawers closed when it's in the space and the chest (by chance) travels.

Thoughts to think on a Monday after lunch….


----------



## CL810

Smitty the tills look real nice. I can't remember if the pulls were original or not.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

You're very kind, CL810… The box was empty when I got it. No pulls at all. Guess it means they look right! And that was the whole idea.


----------



## CL810

Perfect, I'd say!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, please continue with your thought process on the pull out tote. I assume the legs would have to be able to "fold out" for stability. Would the drawers go all the way down or maybe leave a little foot room?


----------



## JGM0658

Not an ATC or Dutch.

True, but not a tool chest either.

Keep it constuctive and you are likley to get a constructive result.

So my posting is not constructive because I voiced a dissenting opinion with respect to the ATC or Roubo? Sorry, I did not know it was a sin to voice anything against CS or his writings/designs. To each his own, I am sticking to the writings by Krenov or Fried, proven furniture designers and makers.


----------



## RGtools

Smitty, your work on restoration is always impressive to me. I look forward to your idea on filling that space. have you scribbled anything down yet that you can share with us? Sometimes it's easier to edit someone elses design than to come up from one from thin air.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'd say hinged, yes. Thought about 'slide down,' but that'd mean susceptible to retraction. Of course, hinged has to be augmented to counteract racking.

A (very) modified version of this, which has been in my head since I first saw it…


----------



## chrisstef

Wow - I was 150 posts back. Havent popped in here in a while. I see some nice chests out there fellas and I don't just say that to all the boys either. Couple of fireworks to boot. The winter cranky's must be coming in early this year.


----------



## WayneC




----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

To be brutally honest, I've not seen anything by Krenov that I'd like to build or own. Just not my cup of tea.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, youv'e got me thinking and scheming. I see those legs hinged midway, maybe a saw till underneath and a pull out tote!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

There's something needed in the space, and it's intriguing… Share what you come up with, Kevin, and I'll do the same!


----------



## theoldfart

At a clients now, will post tonight. Think we're on to something here!


----------



## JGM0658

I've not seen anything by Krenov that I'd like to build or own.

Nothing wrong with this, it is a matter of taste. Would you please point me to any furniture CS has made? Not a tool chest or bench of course.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I've seen pictures of his trestle table, Rourky chairs, campaign furniture, Jefferson book boxes and the campaign furniture he's currently doing. There's also the chest of drawers he documents in Jointer and Cabinetmaker. It's in his house, looks great. Oh, and the walnut meeting bench he build for some Shaker village somewhere.

I assume you're asking so you can seek it out and reform yourself, right? Or was it just asked to be a smart ass?


----------



## theoldfart

I'm going to join the fray just once. I have built a six board chest with CS. He has produced a number of pieces of Campaign furniture. There are Rohrkee (sp?) chairs. We need to get back to discussing tool chests without rancor. PLEASE!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^Agreed, I'm done. Regret the tone, see no merit in bashing a woodworking journalist. Or any woodworker for the most part. And I'm a Jorge fan. Allowed myself to get into it, shouldn't have.


----------



## CL810

And now for another kind of cabinet. Chris Schwarz's NAIL cabinet to be in an upcoming PWW issue.










Probably a "mis-post" - it's not a tool chest, but I thought it might be of interest to this crowd.


----------



## theoldfart

That's cool, where'd you find it?


----------



## CL810

Lost Art Press.


----------



## theoldfart

Blog?
Edit, found it


----------



## RGtools

Link please ^

EDIT, here you go.


----------



## JGM0658

Regret the tone, see no merit in bashing a woodworking journalist. Or any woodworker for the most part. And I'm a Jorge fan. Allowed myself to get into it, shouldn't have.

Jeeezzz….Ok, first what is this "tone" people keep talking about? I try to read what is posted and do not ascribe any kind of emotions to the post, as it is not possible. Seems people here have very thin skins.

Smitty, I have always found your posts insightful, on topic and from someone who obviously has experience. I never felt you were in any way "attacking" me or being nasty. Same goes for GMatheson, I do not know why he posted an apology, I got a laugh out of his first post.

The other thing I find somewhat puzzling is this "bashing" idea. I find CS an entertaining writer and a good researcher, but lets be honest here, his job is to write about woodwork, he is not a working woodworker. I was only pointing out some things I do not agree with CS, the fact that he writes for a woodwork magazine should not make him untouchable.

You want to learn about wood work, pick the "Tage Fried teaches woodwork" series, or take a look at Paul Sellers videos and classes. While I like Krenov's work, I do not recommend his writings, simply because I find them too "zenish", he writes beautifully but a bit over the top for my taste.

IMO nothing is too "sacred" not to be questioned. For example, although I went out of topic I questioned the Roubo bench here and stated I thought it was overkill. I guess my fault was not stating why I thought so. The main reason I have read to make a Roubo bench is that it won't move because it is so heavy. Is this really a reason to build such a bench? IMO is not, assuming you make a much lighter bench that does not rack (meaning all the joints are solid) and take advantage of Newton's first law, friction and a little rubber you get just a good a bench that won't move either.

Ok, so just to make peace and to stop GMatheson from saying that my projects have gone to the dogs, here some earlier efforts from back when I was learning woodwork.



























And to get it back on topic a tool "chest"


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Heading off topic again, but how do you like that #9 cabinetmaker's block?

Re: ^, expanded response and context appreciated.

Nice project pics, Jorge!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oh, and something about leather string holding planes always makes me nervous. Has a line ever snapped? Concerned about it all?


----------



## RGtools

I have always used bootlaces instead for that. Leather can dry and snap, fabric does not have the same issue.

Thanks Jorge for expanding. That get's things in the right direction. 2nd on Tage Frid, that is the book that made me understand how to use a router properly, among so many other tidbits.


----------



## JGM0658

I like it better than the 59…... :-(

They are shoe laces not leather strips. I guess it could be possible that they would snap, so far I have not gotten any nasty surprises, but then it is kind of evident if the laces are fraying.


----------



## wormil

Smitty, not sure I'm following your thought process on the pull out tote with legs.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Jorge, the 59? Or do you mean the #52 I just spotted behind the #9?

Rick, I abused some plywood as a proof of concept. Here's what I was thinking…



















Out and deployed, the height of the bench to make a decent saw surface? Hmmm… It's a half-baked idea.


----------



## waho6o9

Some may call it half baked, I prefer to call it planning.

Good job.


----------



## wormil

Love it when a plan comes together!! It sinks in now Smitty, I like it.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, it looks workable. I'm going to do a mockup this weekend. Will post the results.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ I've been called worse.


----------



## WayneC

Auto correct for the win.


----------



## theoldfart

I'm embareAssed !


----------



## Mosquito

I did quite a bit of sketchup work on my idea of a tool chest last night. But it's brought up a question… what are the dimensions that you used for the outside or inside of the toolchest, and any rationalizations for why?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Kevin and Rick;

The mock up from last night kinda demonstrated there's not much storage, or tote, utility to the 'sawbox' concept. At least so far. Any kind of drawer or box within will be necessarily limited in depth by the vertical space within the chest itself. So the utility of the piece would be (?)

-A sawbench companion to the chest
-Space to put a couple (narrow) bench hooks that could be used atop the sawbox
-A filler-with-purpose that keeps tills closed in transit
-A place to sit when digging through the chest
-Possibly a lightweight bench if one end has a raised profile to act as a stop

What else? Can it really be an effective tool tote? Would you want it to be?


----------



## Brit

Mos - My ideal toolchest is one that I can climb inside. I think they call it a workshop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Mos;

I'm no expert, but I've identified these 'hard stops' -

-Wide enough inside for your longest handsaws
-bottom bay tall enough for a jointer plane w/ full iron
-At least one till tall enough to handle the knob of a brace


----------



## JGM0658

Smitty, whatever that expensive paper weight POS is called or numbered.

Hey very clever idea with the saw stand. You could put a couple of bench hooks and even a smallish shooting board inside.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ re: bench hooks inside that could in turn be used on the sawbox / sawstand… I like the way you think, that increases utility for sure. No place otherwise to put such things in the chest.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

(don't have a shooting board… also a good idea though)


----------



## theoldfart

Take a look at The Unplugged Worshop. His traveling chest could be modified to fit. 
http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/a-cabinetmakers-toolchest-2.html


----------



## CL810

Mos - +1 what Smitty said. Inside clearance for your lid above tills for saws if you mount them on the lid.

If you are considering a Dutch style chest I would make it as deep (front to back) as you think you can. That's where I ran out of space. I needed another inch or so (anyone ever hear that before) after all was said and done. My inside measurement is 15"; 16" would have been great.


----------



## Mosquito

Right now it's more of a generic or ATC style. Inside it's 22" deep (front to back) and round about 36" wide


----------



## Airframer

And most importantly… make sure you can remove it from your apartment when the time comes ;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

excerpt from 'the practical woodworker' on tool chests… this one a 'patternmaker's chest' kinda close to the overall size you're considering, Mos:

"The largest tool likely to require accommodation is the jack plane, for which a box 18 in. long would be sufficient. But if a hand-saw is included it would require to be not less than 31 in. inside measurement. A trying plane is large and could not be dispensed with. A tenon saw is continually wanted, and if kept in the box must be easy to get at. The box should be long enough to take the longest tool, and should be less in depth than it is in width. A depth of 10 in. and a width of 12 in. should be ample; in fact, the depth might be cut down to 8 in. and still leave room for all the tools a patternmaker requires, provided they are suitably arranged in the box. This, of course, means that the tools must be packed in on top of one another, and the lower ones be inaccessible until those above are removed."

For a 'woodworkers chest,' these words:

"In constructing the tool chest shown in perspective by Fig. 7, and cross-section by Fig. 8, the length must be sufficient to accommodate a rip-saw. This will make the chest 2 ft. 9 in. long internally, and if it is made 1 ft. 8 in. wide by 1 ft. 9 in. deep, it will be found convenient for all purposes."


----------



## RGtools

When it comes to sizing any kind of tool chest you have to think about 3 things:

1)What tools you need in the chest (Smitty covered that pretty darn well so I won't re-hash)

2)How accesible do you need those tools and how much protection do they need? You can fit a LOT of tools in a jumbled pile, but they are going to be harder to get to and if they are an edge tool, they are likely to suffer damage. The seperation to protect and organize your tools will take up space. How much of that do you need?

3) What is the relation to your body? If tools are just plane hard to get at your won't be happy with the storage. Take a look at your kitchen cabinets and some historical examples if you can find them. Try to reach into all the hard to get to places and see if you can. In other words, make the thing fit you.

Oh, and of course, how often do you need to move the thing around?


----------



## Mosquito

Honestly, the primary use of my toolchest will just be storage space, organization, and to keep the dust off of them. I don't really anticipate moving them too often.

All very good things to consider


----------



## wormil

*-A sawbench companion to the chest
-Space to put a couple (narrow) bench hooks that could be used atop the sawbox
-A filler-with-purpose that keeps tills closed in transit
-A place to sit when digging through the chest
-Possibly a lightweight bench if one end has a raised profile to act as a stop

What else? Can it really be an effective tool tote? Would you want it to be?*

If I wanted those features, I'd consider building some into the chest top to double as a make-ready bench. While the pull out tote/bench looks like a neat idea, I'm skeptical that it could be sturdy and stable without adding gobs of weight to the chest. I think you'd get more utility out of a sawbench. I'm still have a few things to do on this one but I'm already using it. It's also way overbuilt, there is no reason to use full 2×4s especially if you're traveling with it.










You could turn one of the sliding trays into a tote by adding a folding handle. And if you're worried about them sliding, secure them with wedges or pins. If the battens they slide on all had a hole or slot that aligned, you could drop a dowel or strip of wood through all 3 and pin them against the back of the chest.


----------



## RGtools

This one just cropped up.


----------



## Boatman53

While not my dream tool box, this was in the rafters at my shop when I moved in. I had to change some light bulbs, and there was a bit of interest in this style lately so I decided to drag it down and dust it off. The outside dimensions are 32 3/4" long, 9 3/4" deep and 20 1/4" high. Box is made from 3/4" stock. The drawer is made from 5/16" and 5/8" for the ends.

































































The only thing I'm sure of is the slots for the saws. There are some random holes from screws but not even a shadow of what other tools might have been fitted. Any way there it is. If anyone wants it they can have it, I'm not interested in it. At least not at this time.
Jim


----------



## wormil

Thanks Boatman, I've been really curious about these and am glad to see actual photos. If I were closer, I'd take you up on the offer to have it.


----------



## Boatman53

hi Rick, it is interesting with the double hinged front door. it doesn't take up a lot of space when the door is open. 
jim


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

I have a cabinet with two deep drawers with inserts to stack hardware in them. It works okay but you have to pull the top one out to get to the bottom. When you open it up you see the top but forget what is on the bottom. Great if you can remember but not so great when you have 5 other benches with drawers and have to remember all of them. In the future I plan to make shallow drawers, cause my memory is not infinite ya know? (laughing)


----------



## Airframer

I just pulled the last panel for the main cabinet shell out of the clamps. Tomorrow will be a day of squaring and prepping for dovetailing it into a box shaped object.

Question about the dovetail orientation for a cabinet shell.. am I correct in thinking tails on the bottom of the sides and pins on the top of the sides or how should they be arranged?


----------



## wormil

Boatman, I think for that style of tool box, taking up less floor space was considered better. After that it's all about the efficiency of the interior layout.

Woodbutcher, that's why I don't like drawers. In my shop they end up cluttered. Even when I make dividers for them they still end up cluttered.


----------



## theoldfart

Another one to look at:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/89692#comment-1677236


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I always thought tails top-and-bottom on a carcase, like the chest of drawers in Joiner and Cabinetmaker, but Robert Wearing shows half blinds at the bottom of carcases.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, I think i'm going to make the tool tote in two phases. I't will fit here:








I have 10 1/2 front to back:








About 35 or so side to side:








and about 10" deep to the till and 25 deep:








Eventually the legs will straddle the saw till ends and have fold out extensions for stability


----------



## RGtools

Eric. I prefer the tailboard to be on the sides like this. As it better resists gravity (that is if it is hung on the wall).


----------



## CL810

+1 to what Ryan said.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

"I always thought tails top-and-bottom on a carcase,,,"

Top and bottom of the side boards have the tails, like Ryan pictured (my text wasn't clear…)


----------



## theoldfart

Tails aligned with direction of pull as in Ryan's pic. Drawer follows this as well.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks guys. For some reason in my head I see the pull forces on the carcass going in this direction.. \ / ..which is why I thought it might be pins on top.


----------



## RGtools

^for bonus points, use a sliding dovetail to attach on of the shelves in the carcass. Then you resist pull-apart forces in both directions.


----------



## Airframer

Hmm… I will have to think about that.. anyone have any tips on how to cut a sliding dovetail using handtools (excluding Smitty's awesome plane that does that lol)?

Well, this morning I finished panel number 4.. time to make a box shaped object out of these


----------



## JGM0658

anyone have any tips on how to cut a sliding dovetail using handtools

What tools do you have? Do you have a stair saw or a Japanese floor saw? Do you have a router plane? These are the ones that make it easy, if not, then cross cut back saw and a lot of chisel work.


----------



## theoldfart

Eric try a batten with the angle your looking to use on its edge and a saw up against that edge. Clean the waste with a chisel then a 71. I did dado's like this on a six board chest. Should work. :}


----------



## CL810

Where's the sliding DT going to be? How long?


----------



## CL810

Where's the sliding DT going to be? How long?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Excluded?? What the… ???










;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Kevin, that would definitely fill the space while providing additional storage. Tills in chests are great, but that natural void in front of them still intrigues me.

I don't know that I'll pursue a pull-out toolbox. Although I've not completed the exercise, I hope a core set of tools fits in the chest without adding such a thing. I'm more into the 'sawbox' alternative if, as Rick pointed out, it can be made sturdy enough.

But I am very interested in what you come up with on the pull-out!


----------



## CL810

(Somehow missed Ryan's post so my previous double post irrelevant.)

Smitty those sliding DTs are as good as any I've seen - sweetness.


----------



## Airframer

Smitty.. other than it being the coolest thing on earth.. I don't forsee me aquairing me one anytime soon lol.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I may use them in my sawbox add-on to the tool chest (see, I'm staying on topic!)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Regarding the sliding ledge I included in my rehab'd tool chest project, this tidbit on it's purpose from Practical Woodworker:

-A sliding ledge beneath the tills, when pulled out, covers the bottom compartment. The bench- planes, etc., can be packed away on the sliding board.

So I should be setting my assortment of bench planes there! Hmmmm.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Rick - Here are a couple of pics of an upright toolbox that I had socked away…


----------



## WayneC

Stanley sweetheart tool chest with tools on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Very-Rare-Stanley-Sweetheart-No-850-Chest-with-Original-Tools-Vintage-1932/130994392113?_trksid=p2045573.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D298%26meid%3D1383743313084212378%26pid%3D100034%26prg%3D1079%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D161109650142%26#ht_2092wt_1393


----------



## donwilwol

a couple I've go hiding.


----------



## wormil

Thanks guys. I might end up building one of these smaller boxes for no real reason other than I want to. There is a stack of reclaimed yellow pine in my shop, been wondering what to do with it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

And this is it with planes up on the sliding ledge!


----------



## wormil

They fit right in there Smitty.


----------



## Airframer

You are killing me with that box Smitty! Very cool ;-)

Wayne - I saw that auction last night. I just wonder how they can ship it filled for only $27?

Made a bit of progress on my box tonight. All 4 panels for the main carcass are glued, flat and squared ready for some dados (or sliding dovetails… probably not) and dovetails cut.

I have also figured out that I have undershot the wood needed for this by a bit so I will have to go get some more this weekend if time allows.

That said, so far I am 100% hand tool on this build. Hoping to see how far I can get before I have to kill electrons


----------



## Airframer

[email protected] you guys! I was just about to brush off the sliding dovetail idea as a pipe dream but I just spent the last 2 hours researching how to cut them by hand and now I want to do it….

First Red talks me into full extension wooden drawer slides and now sliding dovetailed shelves… Anyone else want to toss in another challenge? :-D

Back to the shop to make a sliding dovetail saw…...... *mumble..grumble….


----------



## RGtools

^I cut them with a chisel and a back saw (a stair saw would make the process easier).

For the female part of the joint I cut one side straight (the top part) and then angle the other side (the bottom in case you have memory issues). One trick to get the angle you want is to lay that out on the end of the cut, and to cut that angle first, then use that kerf to guide your saw for the rest of the cut without cutting more deeply into it.

For the male part of the joint I mark the same angle on end and I chop to the shoulder line across the joint first. This relieves pressure on the joint and makes chopping and paring the angled cheek much easier. Chop the general outline of the cheek away staying above your layout lines, but try to get as close as you dare (a fat 16th" would do just fine, maybe more depending on the wood). Then grab the widest, razor sharp chisel you have. Carefully use it to pare to your layout lines exactly for about a half and inch, this part dictates the rest of the cut, so take your time and get it right. You then can use this flat spot as a reference surface to peel away the rest of the joint accurately one small slice at a time (the wide chisel allows the most reference surface). For smaller joints you can relieve the last couple of inches a bit to aid assembly. For wide ones I recommend angling the whole thing in the first place so it only tightens up in the last few inches (this of course should be done on both parts of the joint).

Not as hard as it sounds, but take your time with the layout.


----------



## CL810

Found this Dave Barron's blog. Beautiful. If you get an error message or the pictures do not appear click his picture and they should come up.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^ That guy is amazing.

Got a lot done on the next plane till today.









The through tenons came out a little better on this one. 









Ya keeping up Eric


----------



## theoldfart

Red, thought about wedging the through tenons? I did mine with Ipe' and white oak.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I should have Kev. I didn't branch out too much on these plane tills. Sorry if I've disappointed my fans;-)


----------



## Airframer

Red… what no sliding dovetailed thru tusk wedged tenons on that till? You dissapoint me….


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Couldn't have asked that any better (I was wondering the same thing myself)...


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I know, I know. This is baby stuff for me to bust out in a couple hours (hanging over-sized red head).

I promise I'll step out of my comfort zone next project fellers….lol


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

At least you have nice clamps…


----------



## JLango

Both my boxes serve me well. I like having drawers and keeping things organized. Way too much dust builds up to have any kind of open tool storage. The 6' tool chest is just modeled after snapon's, and i turned to Andy Rae for inspiration for my woodworking tool cabinet.


----------



## Airframer

+1 Smitty. That is the reason his stuff turns out so nice…. It's all about the clamps lol.

James - Those are some nice lookin' boxes you have there! LOOOOVE the roll away!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Smitty- well played on the clamps.

James- Very nice on the tool boxes.


----------



## theoldfart

James, how about a couple of pic's of the woodworking cab. Like the cabriole legs.


----------



## RGtools

*James*. Was that photoshopped or was that good timing on your lighting? Your toolchest is glowing like a fresco of the Virgin Mary.

Great work.


----------



## Airframer

I have been working out the storage options that I had planned for my cabinet and was wondering what the jury had to say.

Here are some rough drawings of the preliminary plan.

The main case will be divided up this way with a dividing wall between the plane/tool storage and the back where I would like to put 2 saw tills on either side that should hold a total of 6 saws between the 2 of them with access doors for the saw tills on either side.



















Hopefully that all makes sense. The problem I am having with it is figuring out how to cut the doors on the sides. I would like to make them "blend" into the sides (kinda hidden storage.. kinda) but am at a loss as to the best approach for the doors.

And here are some rough mockups..

this has the saw mostly positioned how the saw tills will hold them (obviously they will be inside the case and hidden on the back of the handplanes)










And here is some test fitting of the planes. They will be better arranged to best take advantage of the space available.










Would love to here some thoughts on the plan so far..


----------



## RGtools

^Eric, That is a cool idea.

I really do believe in the axiom of there always being room to simplify. A door on the side of the cabinet would eliminate any chance of placing storage to the side of the cabinet or putting the cabinet in a corner at a future date. This may or may not be a deal breaker for you. If it is, chew on this: instead of having the angled rack for the planes be static and occupy half the chest, have it on rollers that can move from left to right. You could have shelves back there and fit in a saw till that you could access by sliding the planes out of the way.

My $0.02.


----------



## Airframer

I see what you are saying and had thought of that. The doors are going to be box doors so either way I will need room on either side of the cabinet wherever it sits so I can open the front… or make the saw till access doors roll up doors lol (Red… that is a joke.. and the answer is no ;-) )


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, you need wedged tenons, LED's and motorized doors! +1 to Ryan's observation.


----------



## Airframer

Well… got no one to blame for this one but myself so I am going to blame Red anyway 

Now I am seriously considering Tambour Doors on the sides for the tills. I hadn't even considered them till I brought them up on a whim just now but they would be the perfect solution….

Just watched this guy make some and it seriously doesn't seem outside my skill set…






I mean why the heck not… lets throw everything at this.. where's that kitchen sink at?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

"wondering what the jury had to say"

Yes, yes. Do that prior to glueup. Or else the jury will frown on your lazy, simplistic design….lol


----------



## Airframer

HAH! True.. true.. Bless your heart….


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm a serious fan of tamour… Go for it!


----------



## wormil

When a whimsical thought suddenly seems like a good idea, it's probably a very good idea.


----------



## DanKrager

Oh Rick, that sounds so RICH! But there is so much junk lying around my shop that proves it isn't always true. I really must clean shop soon.
I love tambour too! I've become a fan of the wired tambours that can follow S-curves, something that a canvas back may have trouble with. Go for it!

DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Added a couple simple blocks to the bottom compartment of the chest to hold the Cincinnati Saw Co. backsaws. Maple, cut on the Goodel-Pratt. Couple dabs of glue keeps them in place.


----------



## Airframer

Tambour Doors are a go..


----------



## Airframer

I realized today that I was getting ahead of myself. I should probably get the case assembled before fitting the door tracks and saw till inside lol… so got to work on some sliding dovetails.



















Just need to do that one more time and add a groove for the saw till wall and this can get assembled 

Also… Duct Tape Bandaids… first aid has never been cooler!


----------



## WayneC

Ouch….


----------



## Airframer

Happened when I was sharpening up the routah plane.. the corner popped up and got a couple pin pricks on my fingers. Just enough to potentially leave DNA everywhere so I decided to cover them lol.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dovetail grooves looking very impressive, I must say.

Added a coat of Watco's to the lid today also did a little trim out inside the panel. Saw till holders just about done, still waiting on the recessed pulls to finish this thing totally. Argh, I hate waiting on shipping.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, it's getting a look of refined elegance. How about a pic of the saw till opened? Now if you need to hold off until the grand unveiling I'll understand, I think.


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty, You are the only thing that stood between that box being on a trash heap and becoming a part of woodworking lore. Nice job.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Smitty.. Not as impressive as your chest is looking!

Both dovetail grooves are finished. Hope to get this in a some what assembled state tomorrow.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ I am in absolute awe at those sliders. That is a ton of work… Wow.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Kevin, saw till still not done so I can't show it… The inside saw holders are done, got those in place tonight and added a coat of Watco's in and out. Also took some off the bottom of the saw till then re-arranged the tools in the three trays some, in an effort to get a a better layout. I 'spect that part of chest living never changes?


----------



## Airframer

Smitty - what type of panel would you use for the center wall that separates the saw till from the front tool storage? I was thinking solid panel but now that I think of it wood expansion would be an issue wouldn't it?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'd probably try to T&G some type of solid stock, but in random widths (each around 3" wide, + or -). That takes care of wood movement, but opens a challenge as to joinery top and bottom…

For tool holders, it's hard to beat a good substrate. And plywood (birch what you're thinking?) would be that.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Love this pic. Saws in the lid (I count five; three panel saws, two back saws) and planes that are anchored to the floor of the chest. All wood, everywhere. Very cool.










Chisel rack against the front wall of the chest, and a till outfitted for a full-sized level.


----------



## RGtools

At some point I want to re-work my saw till so I can get one of those tool-racks on the front wall of my chest. Thanks for sharing that Smitty.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Smitty. I am going to try a solid wood panel of some sort. I have a completely unreasonable but very strong aversion to the use of plywood. Not sure why I just can't bring myself to use it but it would haunt me if I did.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm with ya on the plywood aversion, Eric. But I had no way of knowing where you stood on it before making my comment. 

And, for the record, I tried to be an enabler for a T&G plane but you were having none of it. lol


----------



## Airframer

Oh I was having it.. my #45 is soaking in evaporust as we speak lol. There will be some T&G action soon ;-)


----------



## WayneC

Ah T&G enablement. You also got me Smitty. My Union 42 should be arriving today or tomorrow to go with the 41. I blame both of them on you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

You're welcome!


----------



## WayneC

LOL.


----------



## Airframer

Smitty - the T&G panel you were talking about earlier.. could you maybe draw a picture of what you mean? I think I understand what you are saying but am just a bit foggy on the details.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I equated the panel you're looking to build with a back, hope that was a correct thought or this won't make sense. Anyway, rather than the seasonal movements a solid piece has, T&G pieces move less individually and the edge joinery permits it without cracking. Like the back of a carcase.

http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/29780

I'm probably way off the path you were looking to go.


----------



## palaswood

Lovely, inspiring chest Smitty. and when you say Watco's, you're talking about their Danish oil right? I think I'm prefering that over tung oil which yellows the wood more than I would like.

I also use watcos rejuvinating oil to "test" for the final look without putting too much finish on


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Thanks, Joseph, and you nailed it!










It's the only finish applied it to the bench and cabinet, makes sense to use it inside the chest. I like the look when applied, and it gets better over time (to my eye).


----------



## palaswood

I love that stuff and IT GOES ON SO THICK unlike tung which runs everywhere. I finished my workbench/assembly table with 3 coats of it which is just 1 1/8 inch thick ply sanded smooth. if not rubned off quickly it gets very tacky. But you can't beat the color and durability for my money, in my very limited experience nonetheless.

I'm inspired by your chest and I realized before I build a proper bench, I need a proper tool chest.

Danish oil inside? I like the cut of your jib smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Thanks, Joseph (edit there, sorry)!

RE: chest first vs. bench first…

I've heard people say (incorrectly, IMO) they needed a bench to build a bench, but I've not heard a chest was needed to build a bench. I was interested in the idea of a chest, but have to say this chest found me…

"...if not rubned off quickly it gets very tacky."

This happens when applying multiple coats, right? I had this on the second (annual) application on my benchtop. I decided to let it sit / cure over the weekend, and when I came back on Monday evening the finish had cured and was rock hard (easy, Al, not in that way).


----------



## Mosquito

I intend to use the same Danish Oil for my workbench, once I finally do add finish. I've used it on quite a few pieces now, and I do like it.


----------



## palaswood

smitty I'm just so disorganized and I can never find my tools! And when searching for them I may uncover some salvaged wood I forgot about and now I'm planing that down for no apparent reason and there goes my shop time for the day!

I think for me I need to just budget my time better and stay focused. That's a tall order for me though!

And I'm impatient so I only let the oil cure overnight, and it was a thick coat to boot & yes I put several coats


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ I totally get that!


----------



## Airframer

*Mos* - Just put a finish on that bench for F's Sake! :-D You OWE us a Bondo pic!

*Joseph* - I say to my wife all the time that I would be done already if I would stop losing tools lol.


----------



## palaswood

Air - My girlfriend keeps asking what I'm actually going to BUILD in this shop of mine, but she doesnt understand how long this stuff ACTUALLY TAKES! And I have to admit, if I had a proper tool chest, I would still probably only get distracted more efficiently


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I love me some watco danish oil. The tinted stuff is my preferred line of "stains" as well. I really like their oak and walnut colored stains (if I must use a stain). They don't seem to blotch as much as regular stains.


----------



## RGtools

I fully intend on a Bondo pic for my tool chest.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan, gotta ask. In the box or out? 'cuz in might lead to a number of sharp edge injuries some of which might impact your love life!


----------



## Airframer

I have only used the natural Watco. How does poplar take it and do you think any of the "stained" ones would look good on it? I was eyeing the dark walnut today and had a "I wonder" moment..

Doin' some dovetailin' today.. got the first set of tails done and they look pretty good imho… now to go f%^k away some pins..


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, some serious line-splitting there! Don' cha' jus' love chopping poplar?


----------



## CL810

*Eric* here's a single application of Watco dark walnut Danish oil on poplar. It soaked it up like a sponge. Looks a bit blotchy. I'll let this set up overnight and try another application tomorrow.


----------



## RGtools

In was my thought. But I would remove most of the tools.

Eric. Nice shot.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That dark walnut danish oil looks alright though…..if that's what your going for. Can honestly say I've never tried it on poplar. Kinda funny, they have a med, dark, and black walnut color. I use the dark walnut on all my A&C stuff.


----------



## Airframer

I'll probably stick with natural after seeing that. Might do that on the inside though.. something to think about.

*Safety note for the day…*

Be careful when cutting pins and listening to music at the same time that you don't space out and end up with this..










See if you can spot what is wrong with that picture.

Yep, I spaced out to Dream Weaver and ended up cutting the wrong side of the line twice… which leads to this..










I also partially split the side right above my door and the top by the end pin during dry fitting.. What do I do with this?



















The rest came out decent.. hope to improve on the next few.


----------



## theoldfart

As far as the crack, titebond III or CA and a shop vac! It does work. Also, and please don't take this the wrong way, slow down. I've done the exact same thing only it was Miles Davis's So What! Hard to not get in the groove.


----------



## Airframer

Yep, was kicking myself for that. I was trying to get the pins cut before the boy woke up from his nap again (he is on a sleep strike right now).

I ended up pulling the cracks open enough to get some TB III in them (used a straw to push it inside) and clamped it up last night before bed. After work I'll trim up the offending tails/pins and pay better attention on the next set.


----------



## chrisstef

I must bring this quote to the fore front:

Thanks Smitty.. Not as impressive as your chest is looking!

Im pretty sure the misses wouldn't be so pleased with your blatant attempt at smooth talking Smitty into seeing the girls Eric. Also, Your son and my son must be part of the same union. Hate me some sleep strikes. I even offered to up his pay to 2 cups of fruit a day and a little bit of red meat every third day. No deal, he said he wants to see the puppies too.


----------



## waho6o9

Use a shim to take up the slack of your over cut.

Except I used long grain instead of end grain, Oops.


----------



## RGtools

I have used a playing card to force glue in the crack. Clamp let it sit, trim your tail, and don't forget to scrape the glue off the surface.

2nd, the slow down. Speed comes with time, accuracy ends up being fast in the begining because repair work can take so long. Or in the words of one of my older friends "I work a lot more slowly then when I was 20, but I F$%$# up a lot less, so in the end it evens out time-wise, but I am more relaxed at the end of the day".


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I'll probably stick with natural after seeing that

Probably good. For some reason I didn't remember. I tried to find some a piece of furniture where I used walnut colored danish. Remembered one where I stained the poplar drawer sides…and I didn't like it.

I used a gel stain on poplar and it worked well. Don't even have pics of that. Also seen several times in mags where people used sealcoat and gel stain to get a poor man's cherry.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Waho, I think that outlet cover needs some attention. I noticed that before the dovetail repair…

(sorry, just like everyone else, I scan all over the pictures posted on this forum to see what shop life is like elsewhere)


----------



## waho6o9

Thank you Smitty, I appreciate the friendly advice.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow! That job would've taken me a couple weeks and three blog entries to complete. Well done.


----------



## DaddyZ

& here I sat & kept my fingers calm…

Joke of the day

In what month do women Gripe the less ????

I know sexist joke right…


----------



## donwilwol

Well…....


----------



## DaddyZ

February

Less Days only 28-29


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Can't believe I slipped into the Safety Officer role, so very unlike me…


----------



## chrisstef

It was that orange cabinet that brought it out smitty


----------



## Airframer

Thanks guys. Been stuck at work since 5 this morning and had some catching up to do…

You know.. I honestly wasn't working that fast. I probably spent a good 30 mins to an hour marking and setting up each panels worth of dovetails with a good sit and think in between. I was going along watching each cut and chanting in my head "outside the line.. outside the line.." and for whatever reason I got caught up in my head towards the end and I caught it just as I was finishing the second miscut. I believe the actual words were "Ahh Piss…"

As for the splits I have them glued back up and they are practically invisible and I am going to trim the pins/tails near where it split to prevent that from happening again.

That said I will make a conscious effort to try and slow up a smidge.. I still have a ever looming deadline though that just got shorter today


----------



## Airframer

Scratch that… not more than 10 minutes after getting home and out of uniform.. just got a call to go back.. gonna be a long day and no shop time to fix this for me today…... piss.. I love my job some days…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^We have too much in common


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Found out tonight that a small flat square sits nice in the saw till and a large framining barely fits in the main compartment on the floor. But the both fit, so it's another move towards completness of contents. No hardware in the mail, still waiting to finish overall interior build… Winding sticks and trammel points in, so is a chisel roll.


----------



## mochoa

Traveling tool box lovers will want to watch this video from Matthias Wandel. Its pretty cool:


----------



## CL810

Maur that was interesting.


----------



## RGtools

Smitty, how many set of dividers?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm divider thin, Ryan. One in the chest, three on the bench rack is all I own currently. Need two more of the smaller sizes to rightfully outfit the chest.


----------



## theoldfart

OK kids, time to jump into the way back machine! My neighbor just gave me a copy of FWW October 1991. Article by Tony Konovaloff on "Building a Cabinetmakers Tool Chest". Some interesting ideas. Check it out.


----------



## wormil

Woodgears does some cool stuff.

Theoldfart, I have that issue and his tool chest is very densely packed. It struck me as more for storing tools rather than something you'd use daily.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Wow. I was surprised by all the positive feedback I got from my french cleat project. It cracks me up sometimes on LJs how a shop jig/fixture will get more attention than some fine furniture. I guess everyone loves tools….and tricking out their shop.

The last phase of my "toolbox" will be the cabinets that go beneath my joinery bench. Still gotta sell some furniture and raise funds for those….but they're coming. Farily certain Eric will be done with his tool chest before I get that done. He's raising the bar though. I'm gonna have to bust out some inlays in my drawer fronts or somethin'


----------



## Airframer

Hmm… inlays you say? I might try that too ;-)


----------



## RGtools

Don't forget to use a fox wedged tenon somewhere. Just to prove you are fearless.


----------



## theoldfart

RickM, you are correct on that. Seems like a Rubic's cube kind of solution.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Looking up "fox wedged tenon" now…


----------



## theoldfart

Ya think it's a jab at my suggestion for Big Red? hee hee


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

And now I know…


----------



## MikeinSC

Full of someone else's tools and experience and I know how it all works.


----------



## Airframer

Smitty "And now I know…"

And now I know exactly where to use one too .. Remember that divider panel I asked about but you mentioned the joinery issue?

Submitted for your approval…










Does that pic make sense?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, most impressive! Go for it!


----------



## Airframer

I think I may have just spotted an issue with that plan… The rail has the grain running top to bottom (by design) but that makes the tenon the weak point due to grain direction. Also the mortise would have to be VERY shallow… so might need to rethink that part of it.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya think it's a jab at my suggestion for Big Red? hee hee

Ya, jumping back a bit, I'll give a real response instead of my usual tongue in cheek. Kev was totally right that a wedged tenon would have been a better joint in my plane till. It had occurred to me as well…..after I had glued the sucker up. Doh. Then I stubbornly built the smaller till to match. Only to have "the jury" rub salt in the wound….lol
Oh well. I wanted to make tills of decent quality, but not too crazy. I want to be able to replace/revise down the road if my needs change.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

The top and bottom of the panel should include stiles that have the tenons that in turn extend through the carcase' sides, for the reasons Eric indicated. True.


----------



## DanKrager

BRK, don't let the "jury" rub you raw. Those are fine tills, beautiful and made to a high standard. They will be heirlooms in their own right, and that they match makes them more special. Make more like them if needed. Save the concealed wedged tenon for another project!
QSWO, wow!
DanK


----------



## RGtools

Great answer *MikeinSC*


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Eric- even with the drawing, I'm having a hard time visualizing it. But it doesn't really matter. I probably don't have enough experience with totally solid carcass construction to give advice.


----------



## terryR

,,,Just completed reading all 800+ posts here…wow…too much information! When my head stops spinning, I'll continue…maybe more caffeine is needed!

Please carry on with the discussion of exactly how your chests are joined! I'm learning with every post! I'm also reading The Anarchist's Tool Chest…love it. Think I've been an anarchist for years, but didn't know it. LOL

Funny, I never realized CL810=Clayton…


----------



## mochoa

Erick that looks like a good place to put floating tenons to me, or dowels. It's a long grain to long grain joint anyway so it doesn't need a ton of mechanical reinforcement.


----------



## CL810

I've seen the fox wedge tenon used for drawer pulls. I've always wondered how you'd recover from a mistake. That is, say the mortise isn't quite wide enough at the bottom to accept the full spread of the wedged tenon. You "hammer it home" and it won't go in completely so there is a gap. Do you cut off the tenon, chisel it out, and start over??


----------



## mochoa

Or just cut a rabet and glue it in?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ The floating tenon suggestion is quite strong; I think ScottyBYo would use his Domino…


----------



## RGtools

*CL810* You start over. In other words, don't screw up, ever. This is why I have never done one of the joints, but would one day like to find the need to.


----------



## DanKrager

I have done a few of those blind wedged tenons. There is even a commercial version for chair construction and repair. It consists of a sharpened ring that sits on the bottom of the socket, which has been shaped with a special expanding bit that tapers the socket, and when the rung is driven home, the ring expands the end of the tenon radially, making a permanent fail proof (as long as the wood holds up) joint. 
http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/21/rock-solid-joinery-with-tenon-lok/

There really is no need to fear if you can measure. This is easier done than said. You know how long the tenon is and how deep the mortise. You also know the gap between the tenon cheeks and the mortise wall. Taper the wedge the same angle as the mortise wall. Start the wedge in the cut for it and measure how much expansion will occur when the wedge is driven in as far as the bottom of the mortise will push it when the shoulders hit, i.e. the wedge will stick out the difference between the tenon length and mortise depth. If the expansion is correct, then glue it up and drive it home with confidence. If you want to play it safe, thin the wedge a smidgen and let the glue make up the difference. You could also use a soft wood wedge that compresses in a forgiving way. 
DanK


----------



## RGtools

^thank you. That finally makes sense to me.


----------



## theoldfart

I'll post pics later, camera batteries dead ;{. I rigged up a shelf on top of the saw till and i like where its going so the saw till will be lowered by 2" or so. Then my lower till can slide all the way across to the front. I'm going to set up a narrow intermediate sliding shelf below the till and above the bottom to hold smaller planes ( blocks, shoulder , side rabbit and so on. Big goins' on here, damn you guys the chest WAS done. now back to the 90%'ers.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

"to set up a narrow intermediate sliding shelf below the till and above the bottom to hold smaller planes ( blocks, shoulder , side rabbit and so on…"

Huzzah! Another sliding ledge coming into the world! heh heh…


----------



## theoldfart

as promised:


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Waitaminute… krocs??


----------



## Mosquito

^ lol that'll be the new "Mauricio pose" for tool chests to go along with the Bondo poses for workbenches


----------



## theoldfart

I'll have you know they are for real Birkenstoks! Philistines, harrumph!!!!!


----------



## CL810

Waitaminute…....Birkies???


----------



## theoldfart

ayup


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

< totally unaware of quality footwear here… >


----------



## theoldfart

Urban hippie decades ago thing!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I thought that's what flops indicated, or going barefoot. meh.


----------



## Airframer

Waitaminute.. barefoot make me an urban hippie? *puts shoes back on…


----------



## WayneC

There have been a few photos of my bare big toe floating around on this site. I guess I have now been classified as well.


----------



## palaswood

I just pulled a gnarly oak splinter outta my foot the other day. No more barefoot in the shop for me thanks. What if a plane fell on your toes…


----------



## RGtools

^hopefully your toe would ensure the plane went undamaged.


----------



## theoldfart

Caring and concerned buddies, I love this place!


----------



## CL810

Ryan, LOL


----------



## Airframer

Some late night dovetailin' going on tonight. These turned out much better than the first set. Just need to clean out the rest of the waste and onto the next set..

Oh and trying out our new camera


----------



## CL810

^ Work ethic/productivity/take on anything attitude--> inspiring.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Eric proves my theory: There's always somebody out there with bigger cojones than you.


----------



## theoldfart

Theory? ;{


----------



## WayneC

Theory because Red has not yet met that person… lol


----------



## theoldfart

OK Smitty and Ryan, ya got me to go down this road so now what do I do? I cleaned out the saw till and went to remove it:

















I think surgery is in order









Can't get it out. I'm thinking about taking a 1" cut on the tray guides. Ideas or slanderous remarks?


----------



## RGtools

^That is pretty darn funny.

Do you have a flush cut saw or any short saw without a back? My thought is to use the case side as a guide to make the saw till one kerf-width shorter. As long as you can maneuver that piece to a diagonal (in the horizontal plane) you should be able to slip it past the runners. And you should be able to get it back in without having to replace it.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Ryan, I'll give it a shot. Update later
PS lets agree to stop cerebrally improving these things, it's getting me in trouble with myself!


----------



## RGtools

Alternatively you might be able to chisel enough of a chamfer on the end of the board to allow it to make the same turn I just suggested.

To explain the diagonal angle as best as I can. One end would be touching the front corner of your carcass while the other end would be touching your runner.


----------



## theoldfart

I moved the board diagonally but it would require chamfering both ends. I think I would be better off with your first suggestion since I feel I can do it a more aesthetically appaling manner!


----------



## theoldfart

Some progress:








Looks like some of the LJ's rust hunt prizes
cut the till wall, lotta bashed knuckles!








cut the holders








and here we are








Next up extend the tray supports and sides


----------



## theoldfart

end of day









Saws are back where they belong just a bit lower and tray guides are glued up and drying


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I see, I get it, I like it.

Love the mount for that router plane; I have no such system in mine, need to consider it…


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty i'll take a couple of pics. The other side has a joiner fence.


----------



## theoldfart

Here you go Smitty:


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Very clever, thanks for the close-ups!


----------



## RGtools

I need to copy those set ups. I was looking at them the other day….wait!!!!!!! I just had a brainwaive, I think that is where I could store my rasp and my devil-draw-knife.

Now I can't wait to get home.


----------



## WayneC

Here is an eBay chest that just came up. It has an old dolly with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Old-Wooden-Tool-Chest-With-Dovetail-Joints-And-Dolly-/111179207198?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e2cc121e


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Sweet. If I came across something like that locally, I don't think I could pass on it.

On the other hand, I really have no heritage. Not much from my dad. It's painful for me to see people just sell that stuff off.


----------



## WayneC

I bought one in June even though I was planning to build one. I figured by the time I purchased the lumber the cost was not that different and it is nice to have something in the shop that is over 100 years old.

I agree I have already made it clear to my daughter that my tools, tool chest, etc are hers. She calls my tool chest her "Treasure Chest".


----------



## theoldfart

Red, I hear you. I have three or four things from my maternal grandfather and a few things from my dad. I will not part with them. BTWm my daughter is sending me my dads drafting kit so when I get it my current one is yours.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I don't lack the confidence to build from scratch. Redoing something always comes easier to my eye than creating from nothing. Wierd.

On a side note re: old things, the new/old chest I have includes a couple of the tools I bought at that same auction: a #77 rosewood mortising gauge and a Stanley sliding bevel. They've got the fellah's initials stamped on the side. His backsaw I resold. But at least some of J Dulle is together again, chest with tools. A few things of my dad's inside, and (currently) some of my grandad's tools as well (a 2' folding rule plus a number of socket chisels).


----------



## DanKrager

A cousin sent this:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151614092872077&set=a.369033697076.167040.116673612076&type=1&ref=nf
Seems relevant to this conversation… 
DanK


----------



## terryR

Wow, that's a gorgeous chest on eBay…only $325 over my budget! 

I'll have to save the documentation so my wife won't complain when I spend $$$ on red oak to build a new chest!

Dan, that's great…I'l have to make a similar image with planes!


----------



## theoldfart

Okydoke, got bottom till to come all the way forward.








Better acces to the bottom








Of course ya gotta put everything away afterward









Next up a hinged shelf over the saw till!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Excellent progress!


----------



## RGtools

THAT is a great modification.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks to you, Ryan and Smitty, for doing the brainstorming. On to part der (thats French!)


----------



## palaswood

If i want to build a first tool box of my dreams, but not getting carried away, what features would I need at minimum and what should I keep in mind as I plan it out?

I want to do something really simple, and not something that would be "portable", but something that I could still move.

Any ideas guys? Just brainstorming here


----------



## WayneC

I say build a dutch chest…

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/87088

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/oct13/dutch-tool-chest


----------



## palaswood

Thats a great idea Wayne, Thanks. I like the lid design, and you could roll it right up to the bench, and roll it away for storage when done. Really diggin this…


----------



## WayneC

Here is a video of a dutch chest.


----------



## RGtools

I gotta say, I really do like the Dutch chest. Had I seen that first I am fairly certain I would have made that. It all depends on your shop set up though. Let me ask a few questions that might help you design a good chest for you:

Do you have more wall space or floor space that you can use?
do you chang your layout, or your interests often?
What tools do you have?
What tools do you need?
What do you want?
Do you need to move the thing to a jobsite?
What tools go in, power, hand, both?

Figure those out and draw something that hits 90% of what you are looking for. You will be happy in the end.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Didn't have much time with it, but played around with the contents of the chest vs. the Bench Cabinet last night. Understatement of the year: chest space is at a premium. Almost like a twelve step program, outfitting this thing is going through phases.

- Put it in there because it fits.
- Add things that otherwise didn't have a place.
- Place things inside to look good.
- Hmmm… how often do I actually reach for that?
- Can't do xyz operation from the chest without this tool…
- Man, why did I put that in here?

Lather, rinse, repeat. lol


----------



## CL810

I don't think it matters what your dimensions are - you're going to want one more inch each way!


----------



## Airframer

One more corner and I have a carcass like item


----------



## WayneC

Great progress Eric.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nice to see it coming together (literally)!~ Looking forward to the DT shelving, then the tambour doors of course. That is a fun build.


----------



## Airframer

Yeah, it's coming along finally. I still need to finalize the separation wall first before I can work on those other 2 items. Every time I think I have it nailed down I start to second guess it.


----------



## CL810

Awesomeness Eric.


----------



## theoldfart

I'm with Smitty, waiting for the tambour's. In the meantime, as usual, nice work Eric. Gettin' tired of writing this statement for Eric. How about throwing something crappy our way once in a while so we can all feel better bout our work )


----------



## Airframer

Did you SEEEEEEE the tail I chopped off? How's that for crappy?


----------



## theoldfart

Yea but you fixed it better than some of my good pins and tails!!!!


----------



## RGtools

If it looks like a carcase and feels like a carcase, it's a carcase.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, Erics tool chest carcass is nicer than any furniture I've ever made

I would like to move into completely solid wood builds (fine woodworking style….as I call it), but I'll probably have to do it on something for myself. Not many of my furniture customers are willing to pay for it. I have a hard enough time talking people into solid door and side panels.


----------



## Airframer

Carefully contrived photo angles is all it is lol.

Might be a few days before I get much else done on this. Mom is having a hard time right now and will be away for a few days. I am suddenly reminded of that old movie Mr Mom. Highly recommended viewing if you have never seen it.

Although.. I could just stick him in the Neglectersaucer( aka the Exersaucer) and drag him to the shop…. is 4 1/2 months too young?


----------



## theoldfart

All those in favor of seeing Eric in a gas mask say AYE!


----------



## Airframer

The last time I wore one of those was in Boot Camp in a sealed room filled with tear gas… then had to take it off and recite the Pledge of Allegiance and my full personal info before I could leave the chamber….. that's a great way to clear out your sinuses lol.


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, I'd have been dead on the floor! LOL
Got around to putting a lid on the saw till. Glued in small stop blocks to keep it level with the top of the till









The lid will be hinged and lay up against the front









More storage space!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Nice!


----------



## AnthonyReed

That looks great Kevin.


----------



## WayneC

I saw this chest on eBay. Some interesting design features.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-WOODEN-TOOL-CHEST-UNIQUE-DRAW-L-K-/271294636350?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2a6ba13e


----------



## TerryDowning

The last time I wore one of those was in Boot Camp in a sealed room filled with tear gas… then had to take it off and recite the Pledge of Allegiance and my full personal info before I could leave the chamber….. that's a great way to clear out your sinuses lol.

I used to run these chambers when I was in the AF.

Nice llokin' toolbox Kev.


----------



## WayneC

Terry, I may have been one of your victims…


----------



## RGtools

Wayne. That is an awesome one. It reminds me the the Russion nesting dolls with all of the drawers within drawers.

Eric, hope you Mom get better.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Ryan but my mom is fine it's my wife who is away for a few days trying to get things sorted out. It has been an interesting last few days.


----------



## TerryDowning

Terry, I may have been one of your victims…

Were you at any of the following bases on the dates below?
Williams AFB, AZ Aug 85 - Aug '89 (I didn't run the Chambers here, I was in the Pavements and Equipment shop then 551X1)
Ellsworth AFB, SD Sep 89 - Aug '91 Changed AFSC to Disaster Preparedness (242X0) Started running Chem Warfare Defense Training.
RAF Mildenhall, UK Sep '91 - May '95
Altus AFB, OK May '95 - Apr '97
Icirlik AB, Turkey May '97 - May '99
Sheppard AFB, TX May '99 - May 2000

I went reserves for 6 yrs and spent the rest of my part time at Vandenberg AFB, CA, finished up May 2006.


----------



## WayneC

Castle AFB, KI Sawyer AFB, and Travis AFB. Retired in 97… So someone else had the honor.


----------



## TerryDowning

So you either worked on or flew in the heavies.
Load master? Flight Engineer?

Thanks for your Service!! That goes for all of the vets out there.


----------



## WayneC

B-52 Gunner then C-141 Loadmaster (reserve). Retired from reserves.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wayne, that chest presents a very unique approach to toolholding, don't it? One sliding drawer inside that is in itself made smaller with a lid and two inside drawers. Then the bottom of the chest isn't deep at all because of the outside drawer. Seems to have a good amount of 'lost' space. But the builder, I'm sure, had in mind exactly what he wanted and it's tailored to meet his needs from top to bottom. Very cool, and I wish we could know what he put inside as his kit.

A 'thank you' is not enough, but know that it's heartfelt to all our veterans and active duty personel… [Military service is] a very selfless act, tremendous in it's impact.


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, a till with a lid, what a great idea! So only I could turn putting a lid on a till into big project. Got to use lots of tools.
All done, well except for glueing in a couple of magnets to hold it open:



























and a small finger groove:









Next up slanted storage for the smaller planes!


----------



## WayneC

Thanks Smitty. Anyone who has served in the military appreciate the support, myself included for those that served before, with and after me.


----------



## Mosquito

That's gotta be one heavy tool chest with all those planes… oof lol


----------



## theoldfart

Mos, we role. We do not lift. :0)

Definition of overkill Pulling out a 405 to make a 3" x 1/4" deep finger groove!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Wheels are a wonderful thing when it coms to tool chests, totally agreed!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, you've got a hand plane problem Kev


----------



## theoldfart

So maybe I shouldn't put the woodies and extra ones in there?


----------



## WayneC

What Kev does not have enough planes?


----------



## theoldfart

What? 1-8, 2-7, 2-6, 2-5, 2-4 4or5 blocks, you can't have too many spares! one c and one smooth of each type.
wazamattahforyou?


----------



## WayneC

I know. The only problem is you can have is not enough… lol


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Like I have room to talk. I couldn't even fit all my no5-8s in this till


----------



## theoldfart

Nice pile of iron there! I feel deprived; only one 8 in my till!


----------



## theoldfart

Red, BTW be careful of those overhead pipes. Don' wanna chip those 8's


----------



## RGtools

Another good entry from the site.


----------



## theoldfart

Magnets are epoxied in:









Right now the hinges are stiff enough to stay open but just in case they loosen.

Noe I', playing around with slanted till storage like *REDS* but in the chest bottom









Now i've picked up extra space for my chisel and drill rolls


----------



## AnthonyReed

So slick!!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That, Kevin, is nice. So glad you made a change!


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks guys, still working out the details but looks like I picked up a bit of room so I can move the chisel and bit roles down to the bottom.


----------



## CL810

Neat stuff OF.


----------



## RGtools

that also has the benefit of getting the planes a bit higher off the ground. Nice change man.


----------



## theoldfart

Working out pretty good, I'll work with this mock-up for a few weeks and see if it's really workable. So far so good.








I'll make a better tote for the block planes down the road.


----------



## CL810

I like it!


----------



## terryR

Ok, so I just received and watched 2/3 of The Schwarz's DVD 'Toolchest build in under 48 hours'. He uses 3/4" birch ply for the carcase just glued and nailed with butt joints. Hardwood skirts and dust seals, hardwood tills, I think. Quick, quick, but he claims it will last 100 years.

So, are you guys gonna dis-own me for building a ply toolchest? I promise to use dovetails on the tills! LOL.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, whatever it takes. But we'll be watching those DT's!! ;0)


----------



## donwilwol

birch ply with 5/4 frame and panel would only take a little longer and would be fantastic. Either way we'll still be watching the DT's.


----------



## terryR

Don, I wish I had the experience to even know what you mean by a '5/4 frame and panel'. I might give it a try? But, I'm such a rank beginner to building furniture, I need plans…and admit it openly.

Hey, if you guys don't critique my dovetails, no one else will. No one allowed in my shop but me…it's the ONE place I can hide on the farm without being disturbed. LOL.

But, like my sandbagging friend, ShaneA, I've been practicing dovetails in secret!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, for the most part in life the only critic that counts is yourself. EXCEPT here! Show us your homework. We'll be supportive, somewhat, maybe a little, not very much, oh the hell with it we''l trash yur ass!

Bless your little heart!


----------



## terryR

…for the most part in life the only critic that counts is yourself…

tagline worthy, and sound advice to live by, Old Fart. My Mom gave me the desire to be a perfectionist, so I am already my worst critic. Well, except for you bunch of enablers maybe! 

I'll certainly post photos of the toolbox build, and practice, just wanted to make sure birch ply was still gonna keep me in the Epic Group before the purchase! LOL


----------



## RGtools

it's the ONE place I can hide on the farm without being disturbed.

I call BS here. I once thought that, but issues find you wherever you may roam. (unless your shop is in a nuclear bunker of some sort) 

I want a few py toolboxes myself. So no judgement here.


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, like this, but with manly size lumber.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, In the climbing world an "epic" implies going off route and the ensuing debacle!
Don, manly wood sounds redundant ;0}


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

You can use plywood, but you have to commit to painting it on the outside. ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

ok, I meant to say "not so dainty"


----------



## terryR

Ah, thanks, Don. I understand photos! LOL.

Ryan, my shop is inside the goat fence, with a 160 pound A. Sheperd guarding the place. No phone, no internet. Across the road from our house…about as private as I can get! 

Don't worry, Smitty. Black paint is already on my list!


----------



## theoldfart

A = Australian?


----------



## terryR

Kevin, A= Anatolian…check for spelling.
BIG, white, stealthy, and deadly.


----------



## theoldfart

Makes sense now, my Ausie was a wee but smaller and the BC even smaller!


----------



## RGtools

I need a deadly moat.


----------



## JGM0658

I finally found the pics of my tool chest, this is what I use for on site work. It is a Pelican case that I emptied and made the plywood frame for the inside. If the case falls from the truck, it won't break but the tools are still protected. Since it is water proof, it does not matter if someone spills liquids on it, if someone sits on it, it does not matter. I have even used it as a step stool. It has wheels, I do not have to lift it to move it. This IMO is what a practical tool chest is all about for on site work, it does not have all the tools you own, only the ones you are most likely to need on a job. A miter plane, a jack plane, a smoother, a block plane and a chisel plane. The BCT version of a bench hook, chisels, hand saws and a brad gun.

As I stated before, CS is a good and entertaining writer, and a good researcher of historical methods, but no one who works on site in his right mind would carry an ATC.


----------



## terryR

Nice set of tools, JorgeG! Thanks for sharing the ultimate of tool boxes.

I have a Pelican case nearly that large which I used to carry the hammer drill caving…knees are getting told to cave anymore…so I see a quick, airtight plane till in my near future!


----------



## JGM0658

Thanks Terry, if you really wanted to, you could make a better frame for the inside to carry more tools since the case is deep enough. I do carry a rabbet plane as well, which is not pictured.


----------



## CL810

manly wood sounds redundant ;0}

Now THAT'S a tag line!


----------



## RGtools

That kills me Jorge. That is EXACTLY the picture I was thinking of when I was talking about my dream mobile box. Thanks for helping me put two and two together there.

I noticed the star nobs to secure the tools, is that just a mortise that is not quite deep enough for each tool to create pressure?


----------



## JGM0658

It is two pieces of plywood, the bottom one has dados that are the required depth and width of the chisel. Put a threaded insert in the bottom one and the top one just holds the chisels in place and tightens with the knob.


----------



## RGtools

Very versatile. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## theoldfart

You know, there's French fit then there's FRENCH FIT:
http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/10/22/loading-the-studley-tool-chest-and-settling-old-scores
Now that's tool density!


----------



## terryR

Nice video, Kevin, Thanks for sharing! I mean, anyone who couldn't just stare at that Studley for an hour, isn't a hand tool geek…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I won't divulge how many times i've watched that video!


----------



## WayneC

43 minutes to load the entire chest. Lots of tools in a small space.


----------



## WayneC

Check out this chest…

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-CARPENTERS-CHEST-WITH-TOOLS-LEON-EREMIN-RUSSIAN-IMMIGRANT-1890-/141093410304?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d9d29600


----------



## theoldfart

Wayne, some really nice planes in there. The molding planes were cool.


----------



## WayneC

They and the chisels really caught my eye.


----------



## Airframer

Finished up the last of the 52 dovetails on the main carcass today finally. It is finally starting to look cabinet like lol.



















Full disclosure in an up coming blog post..


----------



## CL810

Beautiful Eric!


----------



## theoldfart

Comin' along real well Eric.


----------



## Airframer

So…. um… how should I proceed next? Cut the rabbit along the back, layout the dividing wall and dado or glueup the drawer dividers.

Also.. did some checking and I seem to be defying the laws of physics as far as I can tell. How does one have 3 of 4 corners square? I would think if 3 were square than the 4th would be too but I am apparently wrong..


----------



## theoldfart

What do the diagonals tell you?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Back rabbet. Nice work Kevin!


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Kevin. This is where my inexperience is showing. I hadn't thought to check the diagonals.

After measuring I found that the offending diagonal is indeed 1/8" longer then the other. After a few more measurements I found the issue. The bottom panel is exactly 1/8" longer then the top panel. Easy enough to fix… Should be able to make my pins 1/8" longer (or deeper however you want to look at it) on the bottom panel and that should square it up right?

Smitty… back rabbet it is.


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, wouldn't you want to make the pins deeper on the longer panel?


----------



## Airframer

Whoops.. that is what I meant. I reversed the top and bottom in the above post. Fixed it now. The BOTTOM panel is the longer of the 2 not the top.


----------



## theoldfart

Phew, I almost said go ahead without thinking! Your are correct, I would just deepen the pins by the difference in panel length. ALso make yourself a set of sticks to measure diagonals. Two yardsticks with sharpened ends clamped together with a couple of rubber bands should do it.


----------



## Airframer

Kevin.. got a pic of this measuring devise you speak of? Trying to figure out what the rubber bands do ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Eric:









It's just a go-no go measurement. Fit it to one diagonal and then check the other:









It's best top taper the ends so they fit into the corners as far as possible.
Got the idea from an article in PW by C Schwarz. He got a couple pieces of rectangular tubing and tapped then for a thumb screw. Haven't gotten around to it yet.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Kevin! Whipped one up today lol


----------



## realcowtown_eric

in years gone by these tool chests were delivered to the site by draymen, ("movers" in todays parlance) where they would be on site for many months. Nowadays, that just don't happen. Tradesman comes to do a task, a few days, and task is done. Longer projects happen of course, but nowadays, leaving such a box on site for weeks is an invitation for thieves Most, but not alll tradesment truck in their tools beginning of day and take em home at quitting time. These large chests are marvellous to be sure, but relics of a bygone era. I believe they only belong in the workshop, not on site-as was their original purpose.

It's not my "dream" tool box, but it's essential to the point where I'm thinking duplication of it and it's contents. I leave it on one site , but then wish I had it at another.

Just a little aluminium make up case that holds all the screwdriver tips, the basic set of drills, pencils (different colours) markers, olfa knives and spare blades, metric and imperial hex, torx key sets, nailsets, centrepunches, small pipe cutter, internal pvc pipe saw, a few tads of sandpaper, small vice grips, small crescent wrench, coupla small card scrapers, roll of electrical and teflon tape. And a whole bunch of other stuff that I cannot remember, but know where to go to to find it.!


----------



## MarkSr

Jay T, I can't believe that beautiful tool case, or wall cabinet or what ever, I call that a wonderful work of art, including the tools,* because it looks like* they have never touched a piece of wood in their whole life. Don't get me wrong, I know the chest and tools are being used, but it looks to good to touch. Wonderful, wonderful job, craftsmanship and vision in the layouts for all the tools. Great Job.


----------



## terryR

Kevin, thanks for sharing those diagonal sticks!!! I must make a set!

Can't believe LV doesn't have an anodized aluminum version with brass thumbscrews for $79.95!


----------



## WayneC

Just need to get Schwarz to post about them and then they will have a set available the next week.


----------



## theoldfart

Schwarz posted them here:http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/04/03/make-pinch-rods-with-home-center-materials/


----------



## WayneC




----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

"My dream tool box looks like…"

... it will be parked underneath the Wall Hung Tool Cabinet so that the lid can be opened without bumping into said Wall Hung.

How will this be done? I need to build bench-type support table, of course. In the same method as my Grandad's workbench, but right-sized to hold the wall hung. Because despite it's name, the wall hung isn't really made to be hung on the wall.

More to come, putting it here so I commit to getting it done.


----------



## Tim457

And from Schwarz's article, of course Veritas has one. Only $15 too. I passed up a vintage one of these, only vaguely recalling what it was for. Your hand made ones are very nice too Eric. That or vintage is almost always better in my book.

Smitty, do tell more. I can't picture it, and didn't know wall hung's weren't hung on the wall.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Tim, it looks like this:



















And is blogged extensively, with this being the last installment.

I know, it was supposed to be a wall hung. But it's way heavy for that and so I've opted to change course just a bit. The base will be open in front, like this workbench, but not nearly as deep. With the Wall Hung on top, the chest will have a place to live while in use (floorspace being at a premium, and chests take up a lot of space…)


----------



## Airframer

How will this be done? I need to build bench-type support table, of course. In the same method as my Grandad's workbench, but right-sized to hold the wall hung. Because despite it's name, the wall hung isn't really made to be hung on the wall.

That is the approach I am taking with mine. I need to make it a free standing "Wall Hung" cabinet of some kind.

Terry.. Mine has brass AND copper on them. Think I could get at least $180.00 if I stamped LV on them


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty, ain't that grinder on backwards?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

You mean, is it on the 'wrong end' of the bench? Yeah, it is. But this is (was) it's 'stored' position…


----------



## terryR

Smitty, that cabinet is awesome. Any time it grows too large, lemme know, and I'll hitch up the trailer! LOL

How funny LV already has measuring sticks. +1 to preferring shop made, though. Looks like Eric has thrown down the gaunlet for using multiple metals on the build!


----------



## theoldfart

Still like my rubber bands!


----------



## wormil

Those diagonal sticks are cool but I don't see myself using them unless I was building the same size cabinet over and over. And yeah I know they are adjustable but a tape measure seems a lot quicker.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is a progress shot of my saw till. Will hold 22 saws safely behind doors when it's all done.


----------



## wormil

Wow, that's a lot of saws.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Looks great GMath! Damn those are nice DT's.

Keep us posted please.


----------



## terryR

My, what a gigantic till you're building there, Greg. Wall hung, or legs?

+1 to your nice dovetails…especially in pine! I look forward to seeing this beauty come together!!!!


----------



## GMatheson

It will be wall hung right beside a plane till that I'll be building next. I'm not saying I have good saws to fill it yet but my last smaller till filled up pretty fast so I decided to go big in case I find some fancy saws that need a good home.

The dovetails look better from afar. Since it's just shop furniture I went with the cut them quick method. The good news is that most of them fit right off the saw.


----------



## SamuelP

What is the depth on tha cabinet?


----------



## GMatheson

The cabinet is 12" deep but the interior depth is about 10-7/8" to allow for the backing and the French cleat.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice work there Gmatheson.

I think I'm gonna make a saw till to mount on my french cleats now. If I wasn't such a chickenbutt I make one like this:


----------



## Airframer

Well, I think it is time to get started back on this…










Gonna mark out the rabbets for the back. Which would be better for a back ship lapped or t&g? Also my poplar that I was going to use for the back is 3/4" stock. Is that too thick for a back or do I need to break out the #40 and get it a bit thinner?

I have never done a cabinet back before and this is one of those things than can set the project back to square one if f'd away so expect a few more stupid questions before it is all said and done…


----------



## DanKrager

No woodworking question is stupid, AF. 
I would want thinner material for the back myself. In my opinion, T&G is more likely to hold the boards flat as they float about. Keep the boards fairly narrow, like maybe 3", 4" max, with a 3/8" long not tapered T&G. Assemble them with not less than a 1/16" spacer (plastic laminate is perfect for 1/16") so they have room to expand, and the T&G keeps the enclosure tight when they contract. All this leads to about 1/2" thick boards with as much as 1/4" T&G. If you use 1/4" for the T&G, that would leave 1/8" on each shoulder, which is fine. A 3/16" tongue would be ideal, but it depends on what you have for cutter.

If your case is not permanently assembled, I would suggest dadoes and ploughs to hold the back, using the same dimensions as the T&G. 
It's a fine looking case you got there, AF. Keep on truckin'.
DanK


----------



## Airframer

If your case is not permanently assembled, I would suggest dadoes and ploughs to hold the back

Thanks Dan.. By what you said there do you mean cut grooves in the back of the carcass to hold the back instead of a rabbet? Grooves along the sides and dadoes along the top and bottom?


----------



## DanKrager

10-4.
DanK

Edit: I agreed pretty fast, but you got the idea. They're all ploughs in the case (parallel to the grain).


----------



## Airframer

Got it! Thanks!


----------



## Airframer

Tambour doors back in work today..










More details in my blog


----------



## Airframer

Well, I have decided to go with stopped rabbets on the top and bottom and T&G on the sides…

Stopped rabbets in work now.. I think I might have measured them too tall but no turning back now..


----------



## theoldfart

I think this is something we all aspire to.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/91998


----------



## AnthonyReed

Looking good AF.

Aww damn, they put it in the house.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ yeah, I saw that Tony. Oh, well. Beats having it in a barn in Iowa.


----------



## Airframer

I hope.. with all that is in me.. that none of my tools/workbench/toolboxes get turned into decorative furniture. I will haunt the first grandchild to do so. TBH I would rather they sell it off to someone who would use them properly than decorate the house with them in the gawd awful "shabby chic" style just to keep it in the family.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

So maybe he keeps it for 10 or 20 years in that manner, at least it's kept. And then the next generation may recognize it for what it is and patience will be rewarded. It's family not knowing at all what it is, then doing the auction or garage sale dump, that gets to me more.


----------



## Airframer

That's valid I'll give you that. It just gets to me the way we treat our history here in this country…


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, read the rest of his posts. He has a great reverence for history and family.
I buddies him for that reason.


----------



## Airframer

Yeah, I was having a bad morning and had put on my snippy pants.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

No harm, no foul. Off to read your latest blogs, AF!


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, as Smitty said^. No worries.


----------



## donwilwol

You'll find Eric, as you get older, your view starts to mellow. Its nice to come home, sit down and put your feet up on something you can dream about. Don't think of it as decommissioning, think of it as retirement. When I was 30, I thought about retirement. My thought were along the lines of "why would anyone want to retire"? Now they are more like "why didn't I start saving for retirement earlier"?

I just had this talk with my oldest son. I don't think he got it any more than I did when I was 30.


----------



## AnthonyReed

I never realized how philosophical toolbox dreaming was….


----------



## Airframer

You gotta respect the box Tony… Toolboxes are deep!


----------



## AnthonyReed

I respect the box AF.


----------



## donwilwol

So sometimes a tool box isn't a tool box. (how deep is that?)


----------



## terryR

^love it, Don, add two more shelves, and I'll take it! 
LOL


----------



## terryR

Warning…I'm wearing my snippy pants all day…

But, that dude with the toolchest made by Moses, is completely mis-using that tool. I like how he has asked for advice on cleaning, but he needs to get it into a shop, IMO! Build a rustic coffee table…and give that tool chest to a young woodworker who can name the tools within. AND use them…

I'll definitely haunt anyone who uses one of my benches or toolchests as a table 100 years from now! That's as sick as vintage tools hanging on the wall as decoration. Just to be clear, vintage tools cleaned and sharpened are OK to have on the wall. My opinion, of course…your mileage may vary.

off rant…carry on…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Finished a hand saw till for my french cleats. 









Gave the dowel a little walnut wedgie. 









I made it big enough for panel saws even though I don't have a decent one yet. 









Shifted stuff around a bit. I like the saws on my right side above the moxon.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Man, that is sexy BRK.

Your space looks fantastic.


----------



## Mosquito

Red, isn't that walnut wedge technically the wrong way (parallel to the grain)?

Better ditch it and start over. I'll take care of it for you


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Probably Mos. Suppose I could turn it. The knot blew out at the top of that side too. Ehh, I don't care. Just a saw till.

Thanks T.


----------



## Mosquito

and a very nice one at that


----------



## Airframer

Crap.. Reds on the move again.. I need to step up my game or he's going to win lol!

Nice looking Till!

Going to plow the grooves for the secondary back and then hopefully get that put together and start assembly of the case sometime this weekend.

Then it is door construction and interior fill out… gotta get moving on this before I am frozen out of my shop lol.


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, I'd love to stand in one of our shops (all equipment off naturally) with a good bourbon and have this discussion, but I don't think the "all old tools should be in the shop" argument can become a reality. If I have a choice of my bench being enjoyed as a hall table, or the landfill, I'll take the hall table. Its the same with "collecting" vintage tools. I will bet the last shot of bourbon in the bottle, If I gave away the cabinet contents above to would be woodworkers, (all Sargent's by the way) in 2 years 80% of them will need refurb'ing again. I'm also thinking only 80% may be very optimistic.

I'll bet, if I could retrace every hand plane I've meticulously restored and repainted, sharpened and tested, were actually still in use today, I'd get totally disgusted and stop all together.

I hope my bench is still in use, and I hope my vintage tools get to a proper place, but I'm thinking the best chance of that happening is they actually go to another collector. Dispersed evenly amongst woodworkers and the next few generations of tool refurber's will be back in business.


----------



## theoldfart

Well said Don. You can always hope what youv'e will be appreciated, just not a guaranteed thing.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Hanging out in each others shop sippin bourbon sounds pretty good to me. I'll bring Iowa's finest…Templeton Rye.


----------



## terryR

Yeah, I guess you are right, Don.

A few sips of Bourbon together would be nice…


----------



## chrisstef

I often wonder where my tools will go when im long gone. I can only hope that my little guy will take an affinity to woodworking like I have but id never push him in one direction or another. But damn I can hope to pass down the tools that ive acquired. If not … well … lets hope I get to bump into a young woodworker before I kick the bucket. Ill outfit the hell out of him (or her). I don't think that id ever want to sell my tools unless hardship fell on the missus or the family. It would be much cooler to give them away to a deserving party. I feel like they would be more respected that way.


----------



## GregInMaryland

Hey Don,

I'll be your proof of concept. Give me that cabinet and tools, and in two years I'll report back on their condition.

Greg


----------



## AnthonyReed




----------



## WayneC

My daughter is getting my tools. She calls my tool chest the treasure chest.


----------



## theoldfart

Don, Gregs' offer is a once in a lifetime opportunity. You just can't pass it up!
Greg if this works i get first shot at one of the infills ;0)


----------



## GregInMaryland

I don't drink the hard stuff, just Guinness Stout. Can I still come over?

Greg


----------



## donwilwol

You are welcome to come over and drink whatever you'd like, as long as you understand you are leaving empty handed!!


----------



## GregInMaryland

Touche Don!

Greg


----------



## Airframer

Progress finally..










More here


----------



## realcowtown_eric

and put not one but two extra screws to fasten it to the wall. IE: two more than you think it needs.

I made my saw till to span at least two studs, looking for solid attachment. Working at the bench with my back to the saw till, heard a crack behind me, turned around to watch my saw till swing on the one remaining screw, which then went crack and the whole damn thing started falling forward and down. Caught it, no damage to me or the saw till.

Tools in quantity have significantly more weight than we think!

Eric
Smarter now.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

"I can only hope that my little guy will take an affinity to woodworking like I have but id never push him in one direction or another."

Same here Stef. Worst case, none of my kids want or respect them…..maybe I'll hit up a local woodworking guild. Ya know, see if there's any young woodworkers there with potential. If so, give him the deal of lifetime. I figure I owe somebody that.


----------



## wormil

Rolling tool cabinet by Jimmy Diresta. Nothing special just plywood and mdf but I always find his videos entertaining.


----------



## DaddyZ

WayneC

You said it best, My Daughter calls my tools her Inheritence.


----------



## pjped

BigRedKnothead, mind if I call you Red?

Man, that wall is AMAZING! Just incredible, looks great.

-Pete


----------



## pjped

Recently I made this Japanese style tool box as a gift for my BIL, copied and combined designs from the web.
With shop time being almost nil since late June, my skills are a bit rusty.


----------



## theoldfart

Pete, did you pre drill for the cut nails? The last time I used then on pine I blew out a couple of them before learning to rock the drill back and forth for an oval shaped hole.
That is one heck of a gift for the BIL, hope he appreciates it. Nice having you back!


----------



## pjped

I do pre-drill for all the box nails and larger, even for finish nails near the edge. I also use canning wax on the brass screws.

Thanks for the kind words. I always look forward to April-November here on Long Island as we have a long outdoor working season and my shop is in my garage, but I lost most of the summer - life gets in the way sometimes…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sure Pete, everybody calls me Red. Except my latino amigos- they call me "Rojo Grande"....lol

Man, that toolbox looks great. Love the joinery and design. How did you go about the finger joints?


----------



## pjped

Red, 
I marked it all with a pencil and gauge, then cut near the line and trimmed up to a good fit with a great big Ulmia chisel that stays sharp forever!

Pete


----------



## terryR

Nice toolbox, Pete. Love those cut nails…bummer…I missed LV's free shipping to grab some.

Hey, Eric, when does your wheel making profession start? LOL. If you get a box of square cut offs from me that have 7/8" hole pre-drilled in the center, you know what to do with 'em! I found some 1" taps on the www last night, but most have 8 tpi. 

Red, honestly, I've thought about requesting a bench built by you…if I could save enough $$$ to pay the costs and diesel fuel to pick it up! LOL. But, really, I WANT the skills to create joints as sweet as Clayton's bench legs. And I'm certain there is only ONE way to gain those skills. blood, sweat, and tears…and a bit of whiskey!


----------



## Airframer

If I were to get a box of squares.. it would be best if they had a 1/4" pilot hole drilled in them so they could theoretically be chucked onto my drill press to be turned lol….. just sayin'


----------



## CL810

"I WANT the skills to create joints as sweet as Clayton's bench legs"

Thanks, but be VERY careful what you wish for. ;-)

And Eric, we're JUST listening….. and maybe doing…


----------



## RGtools

Been stuck in a closet re-do for a while so I was just catching up. I really need a portable tool tote…I really do have to consider the one that Pete Pedisich posted.

Heading back and forth to the shop for that "one tool" you left behind is really a pain…but worse, is hauling all those "one tool"s back at the end of the day. So my next dream box is a light one that holds what I need for small jobs around the house.


----------



## LukieB

I know quite a few of you have seen this already, but just completed my "Dream Toolbox"

Check it out if you haven't already


----------



## RGtools

^holy tool-porn


----------



## pjped

LukieB, that looks GREAT! love the figure on the door panels, those scrapers are cool, too. Is that brace a 921?
-Pete


----------



## terryR

I liked Pete's toolbox so much, that I just ordered some 2" cut nails off LV…

...but…ummm…

...are they gonna hold 3/4" birch ply together? I'm copying The Schwarz's quickie tool chest build, and he uses screws which are countersunk and hidden with plugs. So…hidden screws or decorative nails? 

I also thought it was important to own at least one nice tool in my life BEFORE BigRed, so I got the right hand 289! and extension rods. LOL


----------



## pjped

terryR,

On my Plywood Tool Chest, which I made in 2011 before I bought CS's ATC, I used plywood from Stair stringers and plugged screws and cut nails.

Pete

here: (rabbeted, glued, screwed & plugged)


















Then (pre-drilled) 2" cut nails:


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Nice Pete.

Terry- you dirty dog. Just tossed that in with your nail order did ya? Ever since I confessed I wanted one, ya'll have been dangling your rabbet planes like carrots;-) Congrats man.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Pete, your tool chest looks great. Jeez, rabbetts, glue, coutersunk screws (hidden), then decorative nails! That guy isn't coming apart!!! I like the bead on the dust seal…nice touch…

Hey, I love ya, Red! Just wanted to make sure I didn't stand in line for that skewed rabbet plane! LOL

(I actually thought long and hard about a nice router table…but decided on a couple of joinery planes instead. LN match plane next…)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Pete, I love the look of that paneled, T&G lid. Very nice, and the chest overall looks incredible durable. Well done, thanks for posting the pics!


----------



## Brit

You do some nice work Pete. I like both of those tool boxes. They will serve you and your BIL well for many years to come.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Chest Pete !!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry- router table?? That surprised me. But ya, my increase in furniture sales and hence "fun money" has enabled me to acquire some nice tools in the past year or two. It's been fun.


----------



## TerryDowning

Hey what's wrong with router tables?? I have one.


----------



## terryR

Nothing wrong with a router table…I've just never used one…


----------



## CL810

Terry, take a walk on the wild side - you just may like it!


----------



## LukieB

Pete, 
That thing looks absolutely awesome…..well done. And yes indeed, it is a 921 brace in my cabinet. Good eye


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nah, nothin wrong with a router table. I just know some of my LJ buddies lean toward the galoot spectrum. A router table does seem like the antithesis of joinery/molding planes. I still intend on having both

Terry- if you get a router table one day. I recommend the BenchDog brand. I should have went that route. Made in 'merica!


----------



## terryR

Yeah, I probably SHOULD have chosen a router table this christmas (the only time of the year I really have spending money), would be sweet for inlaying brass perfectly in a swap tool, tons of uses, I know. Thanks for a brand recommendation, Red.

But, my sick methodology says, "I don't know how to use either a router or a router plane…start with the plane." No featherboards, no endless buying of router bits, no high speed whine. And since I'll never build cabinets for anyone but the wife and myself, speed in completing a project isn't a concern for me. Heck, I live on a farm with critters to feed daily…any time in the shop is time 'off' for me! LOL


----------



## TerryDowning

While this Terry does have a Router Table of sorts (a 20+ year old Crapsman Stamped Steel jobby that never has room for the router underneath) what the other Terry has to say regarding high pitch whine, purchasing bits, feather boards etc. is all true!

Using my POS router table is one of the reasons I'm switching to the 45. Oddly enough LOML didn't even flinch at the cost of that but gets edgy when I ask for $50 for a router bit. Must be because it's an antique collectible pretty thingy where a router bit is just a chunk of metal.


----------



## TheWoodenBoxes

My dream toolbox would be sitting in my dream workshop.


----------



## Boatman53

This thread has been quite for a while so I thought I'd share this website. The translations from Japanese is typical of Google but really you are just going to look at the pictures anyway. Don't go there if you don't have some time to kill, there's lots to look at. I have to get back to my tool box now that winter is closing in. 
Enjoy, Jim

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&ie=UTF8&langpair=ja%7Cen&u=http://www.geocities.jp/hatanokoichi/naisou.html&rurl=translate.google.com


----------



## terryR

OK, my tool chest build has FINALLY begun! You guys please stay after me for updates…

Today, I spent 2/3 of the day just cutting up the Birch plywood! Why am I so slow? Well, I just learned a couple weeks ago that feeding a full size sheet of ply through the table saw, and having a straight cut come out the other side, takes skill. LOL. I was certain I'd never be able to lift a full sheet of 3/4" Birch myself and get straight cuts…so came up with a plan last night to do it My Way (the hard way).

I cut each sheet into 3 smaller pieces that I could manage. However, I lost that factory straight edge while doing so…










...bring out the 65 and get to work truing one edge. It wasn't that difficult…but I had to perform this stupid human trick for at least 6 times!  Plus, I kept checking and re-checking to make sure I wasn't goofing up the cuts in this expensive material.

Progress as of dark-thirty tonight…










2 fronts, 2 backs, 2 lids, and 4 ends. Oh, did I forget to mention that I'm building TWO of these? One for the shop, and one for the wife!  Getting smarter as I age, I am!

Still planning to copy Pete's carcass construction…rabbets tomorrow…


----------



## realcowtown_eric

If thats 5×5' baltic birch, it's not uncommon to have out of square corners on that material.

Eric in Calgary


----------



## pjped

terryR,

I keep checking back to see your progress… Even though I'm mostly hand tools, I still love Baltic Birch plywood! 
Hate to put any pressure on you 

-Pete


----------



## DanKrager

Pete, There's no reason NOT to use hand tools on Baltic birch…









Just sayin'.... 
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Guess I'm not the only one;-)

However it does bum me out that nearly all baltic birch ply is imported now.


----------



## pjped

Dan,

That router mill is awesome! very cool.
I have saved many baltic birch scraps (from Finland and Russia) from the cut-off bin at work and made shop fixtures from them, such as…



















and this:










and:



















Hey, sorry it's not toolboxes guys!!!


----------



## DanKrager

Not tool boxes? Perhaps not in the traditional sense, but each of those "cases" holds a tool, right?

I like that router jig for mortises. I made one almost identical several years ago, but yours has the additional feature of outboard support. My edge guide is captive so the outboard support seems not to be needed, but it's a neat idea.
Almost identical chop saw setup, too!

DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Wow Pete. That stuff's great!


----------



## terryR

Thanks for sharing the cool jigs, Pete! I have seen dozens in the wood mags, but would never splurge on a $50 piece of Birch plywood. Now, however, I'll have cut-offs to play with! 

Sorry, but progress on my builds will never rival Red's or Eric's!!! LOL. I'm retired…so I always have time to run to the post, grab a couple bags of pig feed, shop for all our groceries, wash laundry, change the fluids in every vehicle, etc, etc…I don't know how you guys with kids can manage to get anything done! At least with pigs, I can throw their food on the ground, scratch their back for 5 seconds, and they're happy for 12 hours! 

My shop time is an escape from reality, so I tend to work more slowly in the shop, and always striving for friggin perfection. Can't help it.


----------



## pjped

terryR,

I understand… same for me - shop time is an escape. I'll patiently follow along with the build, what are you thinking of for paint color?

Pete


----------



## pjped

Thanks Red, my current project, which so far exists only in the design phase (by far the longest phase with my projects!) is a wall-mounted cleat system like you made. I've been looking at the way you did things and hope to copy a good bit of it. -pete


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Shoot Pete, copy away. Matter of fact, take the things you like…..then make one better than mine;-)


----------



## terryR

Pete, really haven't Thought a lot of the color yet. I remember Carter'sWhiting's chest a while ago which he painted a mustard yellow, then dark charcoal, a lil distressing to bring out the subtle yellow underneath…sweet.

Hey, what's that white stuff on the outside of your birch ply? Primer? I've never painted ply before…cannot believe it! LOL. Do I need to prime it first?


----------



## pjped

I prime with Zisner or BM Fresh Start primer.
The stuff with white is actually not BB ply, but 1" ply from a stair company cut-off bin - the white stuff is a super thick primer coat, like 0.060"


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Pete…will keep the primer in mind…

Got my carcase rabbeted and clamped nice and square on top of the table saw, and cut the base, but it's 42 degrees in my shop, so no glue yet. I left the big electric heater running overnight, and I guessi'll build a heat tent next! LOL.

Crazy weather…it was 73 here yesterday…


----------



## GMatheson

Been so long since I posted anything on my saw till I forgot where I put it. But anyway, here is where it's at as of this afternoon. Just need to make the dowels for the saws to sit and it's glue up time (hopefully today)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oooo, I likey!


----------



## DanKrager

Me likey the arrangement, too May have to think some more about mine…which isn't started.
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sharp. Starting to wish I worked some dovetails in my tool storage;-)


----------



## GMatheson

It should hold everything saw related I'll ever need. Think it will hold 12 regular handsaws on one side with a couple drawers to hold my sharpening supplies. The other side is my backsaw side. Will hold 2 long mitersaws, 4 12"-14" saws and the top corner will be able to hold up to 4 little dovetail saws.

Here it is all glued up with a coat of Danish oil on the inside parts.


----------



## realcowtown_eric

like it. Without a doubt it will get fulled up sooner than you expect!

You have lots of room for expansion too! Hang a shelf below it to hold yer sharpening vice(s) and even another drawer for sharpening goodies (don't ask me how i know!) Add some 6" thick doors so yu can hang yer hacksaw collection on the inside, maybe a file rack too, and then add some tool storage on the outside.

and when you attach it to the wall, and think it's secure, add another coupla screws for insurance. Again…don't ask me how I know

Eric


----------



## realcowtown_eric

like it muchly!

Without a doubt it will get fulled up sooner than you expect!

You have lots of room for expansion too!

Hang a shelf below it to hold yer sharpening vice(s) and even another drawer for sharpening goodies (don't ask me how i know!) Add some 6" thick doors so yu can hang yer hacksaw collection on the inside, maybe a file rack too, and then add some tool storage on the outside.

and when you attach it to the wall, and think it's secure, add another coupla screws for insurance. Again…don't ask me how I know

Eric


----------



## DanKrager

Greg,
That is a beautiful chest when finished. Are you going to put doors on it?
I wonder, too, how you will hold a "gentlemans" back saw, you know the kind with a screwdriver handle? LOL.
DanK


----------



## GMatheson

There will be doors Dan. Planing on a bifold type of door on one side and a seperate door for the backsaw side. I have some plexi but not enough so it will probably be wood panel doors with windows. I plan on hanging my fret saw on the inside of the door so I guess if I come across a gentlemans saw I could always mount it on the door too


----------



## pjped

Greg, That saw till has some nice ideas in it… got me thinking. -pete


----------



## GMatheson

Update on my till. I was thinking of painting the outside but didn't want to cover all the dovetails so instead I used some NGR stain. Tomorrow I'll throw on some Danish oil.


----------



## GMatheson

So here is my till ready for the wall. My wife was out to visit it and decided I should forget wood doors and go with all plexiglass. The more I think about it, the more it sounds like a good idea.


----------



## theoldfart

Great till Greg. As far as the doors go I think plexi will crack at some point in time. What about frame and panel with glass and or plexi panels?


----------



## GMatheson

The plexi would be a panel in a frame. I was originally leaning towards raised panel doors but the plexi will make the cabinet less boxy and would let me see the saws. On the wall beside this till will be a plane till with more plexi panel doors.


----------



## theoldfart

Sounds like a plan. Really nice work man. I think i'm headed in that direction since my saw collection grew by fifteen or so this year!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That looks awesome Greg! Especially chock full of saws…..you might have a problem;-)


----------



## pjped

Looking good, going to look great on the wall.


----------



## Boatman53

Just a thought… I would recommend glass instead of plexiglas. The plexi will attract more dust and scratch when you clean the dust off. I have plexi around my shop and it always has dust on it. But then so does everything else. Something to think about. Carry on.
Jim


----------



## wormil

I say see the saws… a vote for plexi! (or glass)


----------



## DanKrager

Boy that till looks so nice.

Just so you are aware, plexiglass is a dust collector. It's as bad as an old TV screen, collecting dust from 10' out! A lightly smoked plexi would sure look sharp though.

DanK


----------



## waho6o9

That's a fine looking saw till Greg, congrats!


----------



## Boatman53

You can get smoked glass from a glass shop. I use smoked safety glass all the time on the boats. Smoked would look nice.
Jim


----------



## pjped

Yes, I agree.. acrylic attracts dust like nothing else, and this terrific cabinet deserves glass! Well done.


----------



## donwilwol

another vote for glass.


----------



## Mosquito

I'd also vote for see through, whether it's glass or plexi. I was hoping to do the same thing on a storage cabinet, once I have a garage to use


----------



## summerfi

I've just posted a blog entry about my grandfather's tool chest. I thought those who frequent this thread might like to have a look at it here.


----------



## summerfi

Saw this ad on ebay tonight and just couldn't resist posting it here. Christmas is coming!


----------



## RGtools

Perfect!


----------



## RGtools

There, I finally posted this as a project. It's official…I could not paint it.


----------



## terryR

Ryan, it's schweet…glad you did NOT paint it!

Still looks proper to me! We'll see what Smitty has to say, though…


----------



## pjped

Ryan,

Great job in every way. The dovetails look super clean, and I like your selection of chisels!
Thanks for posting the pics.

-Pete


----------



## RGtools

I saw enough examples of really good stained chests that I felt the paint was overkill. A few more of my mistakes show this way, but I am pretty sure I am the only one who sees them.

^My chisels are my babies pete, very few tools give you quite as responsive of a connection to the work you do.


----------



## terryR

Kinda dead here lately…how about a photo of the ugliest warming rig ever conceived? LOL.










It covers my whole table saw and outfeed table .Underneath the tarp is pex,,,had no idea it was so flexible over a 5 foot span…barely holds the weight of the tarp! Will re-design…small electric heater sits on the table saw on a timer.

And why on this thread? My tool chest carcase is finally rabbeted and glued together! I left it in the heated tarp overnight to help the T3 cure. I've already made the all the plywood cuts I need for this chest, so will improve this heat rig, and probably leave it in place most of this season. I can still rip the hardwood need for aprons and tills using the table saw, although I want to introduce as many hand tools to this build as possible. Already used the awesome no.45 to creat the rabbets…although I didn't know how UN-friendly birch ply was to hand tools.

Luckily, paint hides a lot of mistakes!


----------



## Boatman53

Looks a lot like mine Terry.










I have a longer version that I needed to have a ridge for. Just a piece of wood with holes for the pipe to pass through. The pipe ends slip over the bars from the clamps.


----------



## terryR

Aw shucks, Jim, your pex is bigger than mine. LOL.

Love the assy table…store bought? Or spare metal with shop top?


----------



## Boatman53

It's a trick of the camera Tony. That table is only 32" long, it's the small Festool MFT. Pretty handy as a site work table/bench, not sturdy enough for hand tool work but made for the Festool line.
Jim


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Hello, I have just glued the carcase of my small tool chest (45×35x40 cm), still have to put the clamps.



















Those are my very first dovetails and I do not have a proper dovetail saw; I have used a ryoba and have done a lot of chiseling (my ryoba is a bit coarse for fine, accurate cutting), but it's ok since this is not a piece of furniture.

For the bottom I am considering as an alternative a single plywood board screwed to the carcase and to the skirts; any thoughts?

thanks


----------



## terryR

SSW, yes to the single layer of ply for a base, no glue. I am screwing mine to the carcase only as directed by The Schwarz, then the skirts over that to hide the base.

Your joinery looks tight! Better than mine…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

thanks Terry

no screws in the skirts makes sense, I'll go that way. Any dovetail looks good from the proper distance ;-) I will post some details after the glue set.


----------



## theoldfart

SSW, I'm with TerryR, use the plywood. Mine has the T&G bottom but only because I took it as a challenge.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Thanks Kevin, I'll go plywood, after the holydays I do not have much time for woodworking…BTW you made a beautiful tool chest.


----------



## theoldfart

SSW, thanks. BTW I'll give you the same advice I've given others absolutely free! When fitting the interior, don't
make everything permanent. Your use of the chest will evolve over time and experience will dictate what works and what doesn't. Ive made several changes over the last there years to mine and others are in the works.


----------



## RGtools

I support the plywood even if I don't use it myself (for anything really, that gave me the opportunity to ditch my tablesaw and free up some real shop space).

I agree with Kevin, leaving the interior as adaptable as possible makes a very big difference.


----------



## Airframer

Well piss…. Decided to get the tool cabinet out and see how things would fit in there… anyone else see a problem here?










...


----------



## theoldfart

Just shorten the plane!


----------



## Airframer

Of Course! It's so simple!

I'm not sure what happened here but I have a feeling I marked the line where that plane stretched to then cut the sliding dovetail above it instead of below it.. Measure once cut twice right?

Well.. guess I am down a bank of drawers and now I need to fill that groove in. Starting to think this whole project was doomed from the beginning lol.


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, not doomed, just evolving. Your ability to recover from adverse events is becoming legendary here, don't give up.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Can you go horizontal with the no 8;-/


----------



## theoldfart

Going with what Red said maybe an angled till.


----------



## Airframer

I'll play with the placement and see what can be done but I know that angled is a no go already. I'll figure it out somehow.

I have also just about decided on 1/4" plywood for the dividing wall. I hate to do it but it is the simplest and least likely to move seasonally I can think of. Had been considering some T&G there or a frame and panel wall but it will have both tills etc attached to it and the track for the tambour doors on the back side so I really can't have wood moving around too much there.

I just need to finish fixing the rabbet debacle and get moving forward on this again finally.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sometimes ply is just the most practical thing for the job. Just cover the edge and call it good.


----------



## waho6o9

Notch the ply and have a cubby hole for the plane.


----------



## DanKrager

Did you take into account the angle at which the plane sits in the till? I can't see that you did from the picture…
I'm kinda slow, but why doesn't angled work?

DanK


----------



## Airframer

Dan - I plan on designing the till to hold them all vertical to maximize space. I'm hoping through cleverly designed holders and strategically placed rare earth magnets I can get 'er done.


----------



## realcowtown_eric

Why does that happen eh?

Why not turn the ?mistake into a design feature, just cut a notch to hold the heel of the jointer plane so it is held firmly in place and not slide around

Eric in Calgary


----------



## terryR

Eric, simply mail heft and hubris to me! Easy solution, and I don't have one anyway.  Cannot wait to see the vertical till you mentioned if it works out.

I started my lower aprons yesterday…using hand tools as much as possible, so slow going. But, I enjoy the work, so what's the hurry? double post…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

This morning I removed the clamps and gave a little pairing to the edges with a hand plane; most of the dovetails turned out decently:










but not all! Some wood filler should fix this:










I then started cutting the skirts from a board salvaged from the dumpster (it is stained but it's ok, since I am going to paint the chest externally)










I initially dimensioned some pieces to a manageable size with the ryoba, then I cut the skirts with the Proxxon small table saw


----------



## Airframer

Try lightly tapping the endgrain of the offending tail with the ball end of a ball peen hammer. It should expand into the gaps if you are careful.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

thanks Eric, since I am going to paint it I think that the filler would do the job


----------



## terryR

Still say the DT's look better than mine! 

After yesterday's photo of the 164 hanging 1/2 way off the bench, I added a few more dog holes today, and got back to work chamfering the skirts for my chest. A Stanley No.5 made quick work of most of the stock removal, and a 65 to help clean up.










Front and rear skirts are glued and clamped to the chest now…sitting in the heat canopy over night…other two are waiting. I hate the waiting…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Terry, did you dovetail the ends of your skirt boards together, or miter them, or ?


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Nice work Terry. Probably I am going to do the chamfer tomorrow, it's nice to have someone a little forward!


----------



## terryR

Smitty, kinda following The Schwarz on a quickie build, thus the ply and butt joints. ( and my shop is always over 60% humidity) Although, I rabbeted the carcase, the skirts are just attached with plain butt joints.

Planning to dovetail the tills, though, for some galoot points! LOL. IF I can score some hardwood soon enough…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Glue on ply is incredible stuff, I'm sure it'll hold up great! Just curious because doing a 'front and back' glue-up would make fitting dovetailed sides interested, to say the least.

I like the very large chamfer on that skirt board. Definitely better looking (to my eye) than a wide, flat edge when seen from above. Nice work!


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Smitty! The chamfer is copied from Chris Schwarz as well…although mine is a different size.

I had to pull off the front and back glue up since the skirts are oversized a bit in length…gotta be trimmed a lil before the side skirts go on. Add to that, the 40 degree temps in my shop…So the front and rear skirts went on, and I shoved the whole rig into my heat canopy for the T3 to cure…And it was dark-thirty by that time…

Looks like winter will slow this project just because of glue curing! I've never experienced this before…being mostly a bowl and spoon and knife maker.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

I added some chamfer this morning; first I removed most of the wood with a chisel then used the 102 to level; I gave the final touch with my small shop-made hand plane, very useful in cases like this:


----------



## Airframer

I picked up some 1/4" Baltic Birch ply tonight so now I think I can get back moving on this thing. I also have a solution (I think) for the measuring error on the heft and hubris but that is to be unveiled in time ;-)

I REALLY need to finish this thang!


----------



## terryR

Yeah, this friggin cold spell has halted my progress! I've attached the lower aprons, but I'm not going back in the shop until the temp is over 30!

Tomorrow!!!


----------



## terryR

Well, this thing is starting to resemble a chest…










...only problem is now the mass of the sucker! Every time I lift it ( ugh!) from table to floor, I keep dinging the soft plywood at the corners. Today, I took some 220 grit sandpaper and rounded over the corners of the ply a bit. This is my first time building anything besides a wall using ply…and it sure doesn't seem hand tool friendly.

In hindsight, I already wish I had waited another week or so for some cherry coming my way for the skirts, but I wanted to get rolling. So, bought a few 1×6's from the Borg, and they are so twisted even glue and screws didn't flush them to my ply carcase! Oh well…wood filler and paint coming…LOL.


----------



## boardmaker

A Snapon truck!


----------



## wormil

Construction lumber needs to dry a few weeks minimum before you can use it for woodworking, the longer the better. Chest is coming along though Terry. I never did start mine. Kept going back and forth between using ply or pine then used my ply for something else so I guess that's settled.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Looks good Terry. Can't remember if you have a LA jack. They work pretty well to trim up ply. Just think of all the time your saving not having to glue up and flatten panels


----------



## terryR

I guess I should've mentioned the skirts are 1×6" red oak, but still from the Borg. 

My recent trip there as I was staring at all the oak stored vertically, a dude dressed on orange walks up, "Can I help you, sir?"

I replied, " Yessir, can you help me find somewhere flat to store all this oak? I mean, you guys got the pine stored flat, and this stuff cost 5 times as much! This is worst possible way to store hardwood." He finally realizes I'm one of those folks that just doesn't belong in that store…and just walks off…

I knew the crap was twisted when I bought it, but was desperate. LOL. A little wood filler and it's all good now. Besides, this chest is for the shop…the next one is for the wife, so I'll use the nice, flat cherry for that one.

Thanks, Red, I do have the 62, but have never tried it on this birch ply. I friggin love it on red oak! Today I opened up the mouth all the way, stuck out the iron, and got to work on the upper skirt chamfers…










I feel sorta bad using a 62 for a jack, but I love the way that tool feels!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

According to Thomas Lie-Nielsen it is the finest tool they make. It certainly changed my mind about the usefulness of low angle planes.


----------



## pjped

terryR,

The chest looks great, and that LN LAJ is nice also. I have the LV LAJ and it works well, but the LN is so much easier on the eyes…

-pete


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, lookin' good. What are the plans for the bottom? I have casters on mine.+1 to what Smiity said about the chamfers, may have to modify mine! :0)


----------



## CL810

I have a favor to ask of Smitty, Terry, Maur and Red. PLEASE stop posting pics of your various 62's!!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

hehehe….some might scoff, but at $245 I say it's the best "value" that LN offers. Bam!










End grain = buddah.


----------



## pjped

Red, 
That picture just convinced me to sell my LV to purchase the LN.
WOW.
Pete


----------



## terryR

Kevin, casters without a doubt. No way to lift this 23×23x40" chest when full of tools! Even thinking of a base for it to sit on, so I don't have to bend over as far!

Finished my upper skirts today…got enough red oak curlies under the bench to hide the parallel guide! 

Used the..uh hum…62 again for the chamfers…

Awesome shavings, Red! Awesome.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, what's your plan for the interior? Sliding tills and the Like?


----------



## terryR

Yep, Kevin, 3 sliding tills. Got some dry, flat cherry coming to my shop next week ( I hope ). Gonna make the tills from the cherry. Dovetailed, as promised! LOL.

Will paint the exterior to hide the birch ply…leaning toward green/grey…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, i've seen more than a few toolchests with the owners name painted on the front. As soon as I screw up the courage, I'm doing it on mine! As an example:










I don't remember ( another senior moment) if I mentioned this yet but when you do the interior details don't make everything permanent. A few of us have found that over time you will reconfigure the fittings a number of times.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

I have just screwed the bottom to the chest and glued the lower skirts:


----------



## terryR

^ Dovetails looking great!

SSW, you going with stain for a finish?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Re: the 62 pic. I was being ornery again. That pics is from about six months ago when I was building my chisel till. And it was the first time I used my LN 62. I believe I remarked, "oh baby….where have you been all my life?"...lol


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Thanks Terry, and no stain (the wood of those pieces was already stained as I salvaged it, laying near a dumpster). I will paint the external.


----------



## CL810

SSW, I know I'm only looking at pics but the stained skirts look good (but then again I'm color blind as well!). Maybe paint the chest to coordinate with the skirts?


----------



## CL810

Red is actually 5' 3". It's all been a lie, and lighting/camera tricks. For example, that Templeton Rye? Old Tabasco bottle and a fake label.

Since you were exposed on the Smackdown thread, how can we even believe that you really have a 62?? ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

I think, similar to a kidnapping flick, we need a pic of Red with the plane in question along with todays newspaper!
This is assuming he is NOT proficient with Photoshop and the like. :0)


----------



## CL810

And no 7' Red. We want, no, we demand the real 5' 3" Red!!


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Clayton, thanks for the suggestion; my original idea was to paint for uniformity and, perhaps, a better protection; I am not a fan of stained woods, expecially those that are easily recognizable like fir, since they look "fake" to my eyes (but it's a personal opinion). Anyway I still have a lot of work to do before painting, maybe at that point I will change my mind.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Alright, I'll come clean. I'm really 4'7" and I only have a couple of handymans. But I could still dunk on Stef with my eyes closed.


----------



## terryR

Well, if we are going to come clean…
I'm really a 13 year old girl in my Dad's shop!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^LOL….well, at least your pretty


----------



## ScaleShipWright

hmmm, maybe one day you'll get married and live happily ever after…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

I have just cut my last dovetails (upper skirt):










still not perfect, but constatly improving


----------



## CL810

^ Pretty dang nice!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I like the contrast with the stain. I'd be tempted to leave it that way. Nice work.


----------



## Mosquito

coming clean… and I'm really "The Roubo Chick" LOL

Those are some good looking dovetails ScaleShipWright


----------



## terryR

Nice DT's…

I was wondering about that Mos…never seen you 2 in the same photo! LOL

OK, just lost our PC to power outage, so I cannot follow along as The Schwarz builds the rest of his tool chest. Get ready for questions!

First, how much larger does the lid ( with skirt like SSW just showed attached ) need to be than the carcase, so the lid will open? 1/16? 1/8?

Thanks!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I'm having a problem with mine right now. Because thing are so dry in my cellar my lid is binding on the dust seals. I would recommend about an 1/8'th. You can see from the pic it is real close, looks nice but not workable.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Kevin. Humidity changes will run from 20-80% in my shop, unfortunately. The dust seal is the whole reason I'm building this guy! 

I'll go with a 1/8" oversized lid…after primer and paint, no one will notice! Also thinking of a small bead on the upper skirts to make that gap pretty? A chance to use the no.66! LOL.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry the gap that's a problem is along the sides. I'll post a couple of pics latter. The top was made plenty high enough. As an aside I'll be taking another class from the Schwarz in July, making a Dutch tool best ( smaller travling one)


----------



## terryR

Ah, I think I understand, Kevin. The dust skirt rubbing the carcase on the sides will sure enough keep the lid from working. But, pics are more than welcomed!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, here are two crummy pics, I'll try better next time. :0)









and


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

A slight chamfer at the top of the chest's sidewalls and wax on the parts that rub should go a long way. I'd personally not build in 1/8" of slop between the lid and the chest, Terry. (of course, I try for fit and settle for that kind of slop, hah!)


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, thanks for asking this (and the others for answering) I am thinking about the lid too and had not realized that there is potential issue in making it without leaving some gaps as described


----------



## terryR

Thanks for the photos, Kevin.

Yeah, Smitty, I was thinking of re-shaping any parts that didn't play nice! LOL. Top chamfer sounds like a good idea!

I read a good line in PWW recently telling beginners like me to forget about fine wood working! I mean, I can strive for it, just don't expect it to happen for a while!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Good advice Terry. If it was easy, everyone could do it. That fine line between pushing for excellence but not beating yourself up is tough for me to find at times.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Today I have glued the upper skirting pieces (or ribs); I have just removed the clamps and taken some photos:



















maybe it's a bit thicky for its size, but I do not dislike the general shape of it. Now it's time to start the lid, I will probably submit a design draught to the chest committee for approval


----------



## pjped

Boy, those dovetails look strong!


----------



## terryR

SSW, looking great! A very stout chest you've got going on, there!!!

Nice work.


----------



## theoldfart

Folks get a good look at


----------



## pjped

Wow, that is one of my favorite ATC so far!
great color combo.
I've go to make another chest now, I don't care what my wife wants… (did I just say that?)


----------



## theoldfart

SSW, leave some height on the lid for storage i.e. saws layout tools and the like.
Pete, he's got me thinking about veneering my sliding tills. As for the rest mine already has more than a few scrapes and gouges, if it were veneered i'd be depressed. :0)>

My second chest will be a smallish Dutch chest, I've signed up for a class with C Schwarz in July at Lie Nielson in Maine.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That edge banded veneer, with diamond accent, is da bomb. The top edges of the carcase of my chest aren't even square, putting nice touches like that out of reach…










Zjawin did an excellent job. Nice and deep, lots of room in those sliders. Love the stick moulding he made.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've signed up for a class with C Schwarz in July at Lie Nielson in Maine.

My freckles are turning green with envy.


----------



## theoldfart

+1 on the stick moulding, surely top shelf!


----------



## theoldfart

My freckles are excited as well Red. I signed up as soon as LAP blogged the schedule, been wanting to stop in at LN for some time now. We go by it on the way to MDI every June.


----------



## BustedClock

Here's my tool "chest."










Most of my planes and chisels aren't in it right now because they're undergoing a New Year's sharpening in advance of school opening. Needless to say (so why am I saying it?), I hope to build a real tool chest sometime soon. I'm tending toward a Japanese tool chest, perhaps with a pair of wheels, so I can drag my kit back and forth to school


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Kevin, thanks for the suggestion. BTW after seeing Zjawin's chest I decided to turn mine into a planter!


----------



## terryR

+1 to lusting after that black and veneer tool chest! Looks sweet, but I agree with Kevin, I'd cry if the interior got scratched. LOL.

Just attached my upper skirts to the carcase…starting on the lid and seal…

Kevin, congrats on the class wid da Schwarz! Jealous I am…


----------



## theoldfart

SSW, I wouldn't go the planter route just yet! I'm having fun watching your build along with Terry's build.

Hey Busted, my traveling chest is about the same as yours, hence the Dutch Chest build. I take classes locally for a master furniture certificate and it's getting old draggin' that bag around. I think my left shoulder is an inch lower than my right.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I admit, when I saw Zjawin's chest I thought it kinda contradicted the minimalism expressed in The Anarchist's tool chest. But that dude is quite a craftsman, let him do his thang.

Who am I to say anything with all my hand tool hoarding anyway


----------



## terryR

SSW, you gotta give us a nickname for ya, that's a fine looking planter! Don't listen to the old fart. 

Red, yeah, I'm not sure Chris S. would approve of the miters…but the chest is so gorgeous…

Light years ahead of my plywood mess…


----------



## theoldfart

Speaking of plywood mess, any new pics Terry?


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, my first name is Alessandro, I have been called Ale, Alle, Alex and, obviously, in some cases worse, but please don't call me "worse", someone could be upset .










This morning I have cut the rails for the lid (a single raised panel enclosed by rails). I would joint the rails with half lap joints and wooden pins, any advice or suggestion is welcome. Thanks.


----------



## theoldfart

I used mortis and through tenons. Is the panel plywood?

Edit Check out this blog on the lid build


----------



## ScaleShipWright

No, probably an edge glued panel made of fir, tongued to fit the grooves in the rails


----------



## chrisstef

Prolly not the box of my dreams, but this toolbox i scored from my uncle looks to have a very long family lineage to it. Underneath the layers of dirt and dust i found this:










My uncle got this from my other uncle,who got it from my grandfather, who very possibly got it from his father in law Tony Serafine. You can see the TS punched into the side in the pic. Pretty cool stuff.


----------



## theoldfart

Stef, your are a lucky man.


----------



## terryR

That's very cool, Stef! The only tools I have with a family lineage are wood clamps from my Dad. But, then again, I consider you guys my family, so I have a few user planes there…

Kevin, thanks for pushing me for photos! Hope you have a strong stomach this AM…










$40 worth of Birch ply and red oak…$30 worth of wood filler. yuck! But I'm certain the paint will cure the ugliness!

Just discovered last night, I cut my top an inch too short! Damn arithmetic gets me every time. I have a minor in Math, but still have trouble with 2+3, and 2×3! LOL! Changed my directions from The Schwarz slightly by rabbeting the carcase together…shoulda waited to cut the top! Learning by the day…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, is the top one piece or frame and panel?


----------



## terryR

One piece…
Got more ply…


----------



## theoldfart

Make a frame and panel top.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, it looks well proportioned, a good job in my opinion.


----------



## AnthonyReed

That is awesome Stef.

I am really enjoying watching your builds Terry & SSW. Thank you.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya Terry, sand that putty and slap on some paint. She'll look good.


----------



## terryR

Just finished reading Carter'sWhiting post on frame and panel lid construction…twice! Awesome! But, too time consuming for this build. I NEED a chest asap for all those fancy LN's I scored at Christmas! LOL.

But, I'm planning to build another chest right after this one for inside the house…will seriously consider the better lid!


----------



## terryR

Oh, BTW…

IF any of you furniture builders can help me figure out to make a frame and panel using 3/4" birch ply, I'd much appreciate it! Use 4/4 wood for the frame? Rabbet or chamfer the edges of the ply? So far, my rabbets in ply aren't so pretty…

Or if anyone wants to suggest a good book on joinery, I'm ready for it! 

Edit: or plow a groove down the center of ply? can I do that? off to the shop…......


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That's what I would do Terry. The plywood won't move, so I would do tongue and groove. The groove being in the ply (lectric router or whatever you've got). Then mortise and tenon the corner joints.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

There are some videos in YouTube under the label "New Yankee Workshop" with some projects involving a lot of plywood beside regular wood like this:






I am not an expert and cannot judge his techniques, but they are interesting.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for the advice guys! I played around with the stanley45, but had lousy results plowing a groove 1/4" wide in the birch ply after 5 whole minutes of effort. LOL. Pretty sure this will be my only build from ply…give me wood…

So, today, I cut a new lid from 3/4" material, sized it exactly 1/16th over the carcase ( yeah, right ), and attached another piece of 1/2" birch to the top for a fake rased panel. Schwarz's plan. I also sanded that ugly wood filler and am ready for primer if I can get the shop warm enough!

Hey, didn't someone complain recently about all the 62's on this thread?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I was just using mine today too Terry. How do you get a square edge on 1/4" stock? with one of those puppies.


----------



## CL810

Wasn't a complaint, more of a desperate plea to stop the torment.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Speakin' about ploughing I am doing it with the rails of the lid:



















I am using a recently arrived Record 50 with 1/4'' cutter; notice the setup to have the fence clear of the clamps.
I'll probably add a beading to the upper face (right side in the photo). Using this plane is pure fun!


----------



## terryR

That's a gorgeous plane, Alex! And nice grooves as well! Sorry, but I've forgotten what type of wood you are using for skirts, etc? My next chest will probably be a copy of yours! 

+1 on how enjoyable hand tools are to use! Right now, I'm reading "Things We Build And Why We Build Them", sorry but I forget the author's name. But, as a child, he was taught by his parents just like me…that manual labor is a bad thing to aspire towards. My folks pushed me to medicine since I made straight A's and they wanted me to make money. A bad way to choose how to earn a living, IMO! The simple pleasure from perfecting a crooked cut with an edging plane, or carving rabbets with a hand tool is SOOOOO much more satisfying than anything I did as 20+ years as a Nurse. Sad. I KNOW how a 40+ hour a week job can change your mind about any task, but right now I'd trade ya my minor in Math for 12 weeks at a woodworking school…

...long rant over…carry on…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, had the same "encouragement" from my parents and I quote " you gonna be a shoemaker?"


----------



## terryR

Yeah, Kevin, to me shoemaking sounds challenging and a damn useful skill to have. Didn't your folks wear shoes?  Or did they just down at shoemakers? My family was the same way. Maybe one reason everything is made in China today?


----------



## theoldfart

Well, back to re configuring the tool chest. Finalizing the angled plane tills on the bottom and making room for the MF router. Pics a little latter.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, it is fir, probably not the best choice, but cheap and available.

I understand your feeling about woodworking, I am an IT consultant and spend many (sometimes boring) hours in fornt of a PC screen; sometimes I wish I had been pushed to luthiery when I was a young boy; I was born in Cremona, the town of Amati, Guraneri del Gesù and Stradivari and still renown for its violins. Anyway I consider myself lucky since I can do some woodworking in free time.


----------



## theoldfart

So, went back to the plane tills in my chest and did some work. Keep in mind i'm still refining and nothing I've done is irreversible. To get the most usable space possible I drilled a small hole in the front and back of the bottom plane area and press fitted a short piece of 3/16 dowel .








Now the slanted till can rest on these and I won't loose any space to supports:








I then fitted a lip to keep the totes from resting against the wall, I had a concern that lack of care letting the plane slide in too fast would damage the front tote.









A couple of pieces of pine to hold the shoulder plane and done








I now have room for the chisel and drill roles below the joiners








I'm still able to get at everything quite readily


















Up next is making mounts for a table saw and gents saw on the inside lid of the saw till


----------



## ScaleShipWright

All look well organized and accessible Kevin.


----------



## CL810

Kevin, Looks great! The plane tills will remain removable right?


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, yes they lift right out and the dowels are dry fitted only. I guess basically know me! I will change my mind. :0)

SSW, thanks.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Kevin. That's a LOT of tools fitted in the chest!


----------



## theoldfart

Oh no Terry, not enough tools! :0)>


----------



## terryR

^LOL, yeah never enough tools! In theory, I support the minimalist approach…but, in fact, I'm a tool hoarder and collector. whew! I admitted it. 

Kevin, been looking at your tool chest more this AM, instead of the tools. Just noticed the ply carcase, cool, I feel better. Also noticed no paint on the exterior? Just personal preference, I suppose? And the hidden compartment IS the saw till! cool. There's so much packed in there tightly, a video is needed to really appreaciate the whole build!

Another question…for anyone…how do you like the rust-resitant non slip liner? I just rolled some out underneath my planes 2 weeks ago, and they already seem to have spots from the liner. No permanent marks…yet…

And, the most important question of the day…










When mortising in hinges, what is the appropriate time interval between dropping the suckers to the floor? I'm a newby, so am averaging about 90 seconds between drops!  Will this improve, or am I supposed to clamp a lil shelf in place to catch the falling hinges? ( My post-op back doesn't like to bend over )
.


----------



## DanKrager

Terry, 90 seconds is pretty long for me, and sometimes it takes a chisel along just for fun. A stick with a magnet should pick these up. Make the other end a shoe horn. Foir brass hinges, you'll have to see DonW for a brass magnet. You know you're getting old when you bend over to pick something up and wonder what else you can do while you're down there!
DanK


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Dan! LOL
a stick with a magnet coming up…no solid brass.

Notice there are THREE hinges on the floor…not a staged photo. Every time I dropped one, I grabbed another from the table next to me!


----------



## knockknock

After 6 months, this is the state of my tool chest. The approximate box dimensions are 36"H x 30"W x 13"D, top section around 16", bottom section around 20", and the flip up around 13.5".


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, sorry but no ply in the chest except for the two new plane tills.
As far as the liner marls, yes I get them but they don't bother me.


----------



## Airframer

I really like that design KnockKnock. Looking good!


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Knock, that's a fairly capacious box!


----------



## theoldfart

Knock-Knock, looks a lot like theDutch design. Any plans on fitting the interior?


----------



## ScaleShipWright

After work I have honed a beading cutter and started adding a beading to the frame of the lid:










I have removed the wooden fence to have the metal fence just under the external quirk of the cutter. This wood is so soft that I have slightly marked the rail with the depth stop! Must have a lighter hand.










As you can notice I have already marked the extremities for the half lap joints.


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Knock and Alex!

Sorry about that, Kevin. The panel I saw must be joined tightly!


----------



## theoldfart

It was! :0)


----------



## knockknock

*theoldfart, etc:*

Yes it is the Dutch tool chest design with a flip top, and sort of done in shaker cabinet style. For the interior, in the bottom section I am working on the shelf/plane till, the middle section will have some half depth shelfs / drawers? in the top left quarter, and I am planning on putting a tool (chisels etc) rack in the flip top (removable so I can put in the mid section when closing the chest).

The chest has to do double duty, something I can work out of and put my tools down on (the mid section) while working on a project. As well as storage when I am not working on anything.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That beading looks sweet Alex.


----------



## CL810

This thread is getting juicy. Great work Knock & Alex.


----------



## pjped

Yes, terryR, knockknock, and Alex - it is great to see some new variations and cool details!

This thread is terrific.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

In theory, I support the minimalist approach…but, in fact, I'm a tool hoarder and collector. whew! I admitted it.

You think think they have meetings or something like that for guys like us Terry?

I've been putting too much time on the rails to post much. I did sneak down and oil/wax some of my hand tools after the kids when to bed tonight. I love my hand tools as much as any healthy person should love "objects." (snicker)

Also enjoyed your post about the value of manual labor Terry. My in-laws are the same as your parents were. But I'm starting to make them scratch their heads and reexamine that theory;-)


----------



## terryR

Red, if they had meetings for guys like us to solve our tool problems…I can still see us in the parking lot swapping block planes or screwdrivers, or wood cut off's! 

I imagine there are a lot of LJ's that are part time woodworkers, due to real jobs that must bring in income. Working wood by hand is so pleasurable, compared to replying to emails or answering the phone all day, I'm certain a lot of us have more respect for the blue collar trades.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Tinkering with screwdriver grip designs today. Using a tapered plug cutter works ok for round part (name?) for the ferrule. I can't decide if square, triangular or octagonal handles feel better. Or if I even wanna make them


----------



## theoldfart

Aw nuts, gotta make room for another one:









Probably put one of these on the other end


----------



## wormil

Red I've experimented a bit with handles and find round to be a little overrated ergonomically speaking especially with screwdrivers. Square handles with rounded corners fit my hand well and are comfortable.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Rick- I appreciate your input. I should note, round handles aren't possible because I don't have a lathe. Irregardless, I'm tending to agree with you….square with rounded corners, or octagonal will probably be the way to go. 
I had in my mind that triangular with rounded corners would be nice, but I couldn't come up with something I liked. Glad I made some test runs. Thinkin I'll make them out of walnut. 
The Lee Valley shanks came today. I'm impressed with the quality thus far.


----------



## CL810

Love that MF router plane.


----------



## terryR

Red, nice work on the handles…the rounded bit that accepts the ferrule is just called the tenon, in lathe-speak.  Nice work on the drill press…thanks for sharing the plug cutter idea! Although, you just put me out of the handle making business. LOL.

+1 that round handles are for looks. Since I've used one of those perfect handle type screwdrivers, nothing else compares. I see you have one from LV? I plan to make my own…as soon as the metal cutting band saw arrives (next year)! Notice the tote on that vintage screwdriver…square with rounded edges…easy to make…doesn't roll off the bench…feels great in the hand. Hello, a hand tool that feels good in your hand! I hate those plastic handles on anything, feels cheap and hard to my retired RN hands! LOL

Kevin, that 77 is lovely. Great family shot on that other thread!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks Terry. Do you think burled walnut would would well for screwdriver handles? I have some cutoffs.

I doubt your fine turning skills will ever be short on demand. If I jack these up you may be getting an order No way your making that many handles without some sort of trade/payment.
I really like those perfect handles too. I got started down this road because I couldn't find new or vintage of those in phillips or square head. Well, that and it's kinda fun making your own tools.


----------



## CL810

Red, are you going to take pics and blog you driver build?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I'll take some pics. I'll probably just post the info with the project post. I dunno. Seeing as we don't have a screwdriver of your dreams thread…..nor do we probably need one

Here's a start. 









But the kids had have an early out so that's it for today.


----------



## SJD312

This thread is making my palms sweat. Gorgeous chests and tools everywhere. I've just completed the carcase of my Dutch. Still have to finish the finish, install the hardware (OK… choose the hardware) and build out the inside. Brandon, love the setup of yours.

This is my first real project, so it's taking me a while. Spent three months learning to cut the dovetails for the bottom before committing to the build. Particularly proud since I did about 95% of the work with hand-tools. (Broke down and used the circ saw to rip the angle on the front and back of the top, since I didn't know how to do it otherwise.)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Steve, consider the Galoot Index when you post the chest as a project, if you will.  I'm thinking it'll score well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Waitaminute…

To rip the angle on the front and back of the top… You mean beveling the top edges of the front and back boards? Build it square then bevel with a hand plane. Edges of the actual lid, front and back? Same answer.

You build this without a handplane?


----------



## Armandhammer

That Dutch chest looks great. I'm thinking hard about building one after my bench is built.


----------



## CL810

Looks great Steve! A great first project that will serve you well for a looong time.

See Steve's chest without the milk paint here.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Welcome to the fray Steve. Your Dutch chest is outstanding.


----------



## waho6o9

Clean work Steve!

Congrats on the Miller falls OF, it's a great addition to your tool 
box.


----------



## SJD312

Smitty, feeling pretty stupid right now. Put my 5, 4, block and old woody side rabbet to good use on this project but never thought to bevel the lid that way! Thanks for the encouragement everyone. Kind of blown away by the warm reception on here.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Well, now you know. 

I totally get the mental block regarding these tools and ways to use them. To cut a proper bevel in this case, it's a simple matter. Mark the face and end of the stuff with your gauge so 1) the result is consistent across the piece, and 2) so you know when to stop. With the lines in place, plane until you've reached both, ideally at the same time. With your breadboard ends, work each end towards the center to avoid blow-out.

Easy-peasy.

Your Dutch looks great in black, nice finish. Welcome to Lumberjocks, BTW!


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Smitty, sounds like I made the chamfers on my skirts properly.  It was shear joy with the 62, and I was scared to death of trying that on the 3hp table saw!

Yes, welcome, Steve! A great bunch of enablers, here. I really love the charcoal color of your chest…leaning towards that color for mine. Especially since I think it will match the cherry tills inside?

Hey, Red, please let us know what you think of those screwdrivers. Looks like you bought them all! LOL. Yeah, walnut burl will look awesome…get out your sandpaper! Did you go with 1/2" ferrules?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

scared to death of trying that on the 3hp table saw

That's one of the prime reasons I love my RAS. It's not an uber-powered tool like high-end cabinets saws and the like. I am basically scared of multi-horse tools in general, and will keep such things out of my life as much as possible.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, hear hear. I concur with my esteemed colleague, when it comes to my hands I am a firm believer in digital preservation


----------



## terryR

The really embarrassing truth is, I cut a straighter line with a Disston than the Grizzly. LOL


----------



## SJD312

Looks black/gray in the pic but its actually general finishes coastal blue.

Been going crazy looking at all the internal organization in the chests on here. Will take forever to decide what to do, especially planning for future needs… Like the big empty space for jointer plane I don't have yet. Built the chisel holder. Next is a solution for securing the big rip and cc saws inside the lid. Suggestions are welcome… Considering leather straps.

Smitty,, the Gi is pure genius. To counteract the circ saw bevel I used a hand brace to make the holes in the chisel holder to put me back in the black. Also hand mixed the paint for the first time so I've got that going for me. ( 1 part paint/1.5 water and a dollop of tung oil. ) Also in love with your refurbed tool chest. Amazing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Crazy-fun hearing you go through these steps, Steve. It's the journey… thanks for sharing yours!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

"The really embarrassing truth is, I cut a straighter line with a Disston than the Grizzly."

^ Tag-line worthy, Terry!


----------



## SJD312

Terry, I don't even have a ts. Cut straighter with my hand saws than with the circ, which also takes too much time to set up the cut. Would much rather cut close to the line then plane than deal with the set up, noise and mess. I share my shop space with the furnace, so I'm really not into kicking up a lot dust. Started using hand tools as a necessity but quickly came to love it. ( not that I wouldn't love to have a jointer, planer and ts just so I could use rough timber. Haven't mastered hand milling and not sure I want to… Almost gave up the whole woodworking thing after spending hours trying (and failing) to square and true one board. Between that and the effort it took to learn dovetails I'm amazed I stuck with it. This craft is teaching me patience, persistence and humility Ina whole new way.


----------



## SJD312

And here's why I need the chest. Yikes.


----------



## CL810

I'd be very comfortable in that shop Steve!


----------



## terryR

+1 to learning patience, persistence, and humility with the hand tools. I have no table saw skills, so decided to just learn to use hand saws. LOL. And, no router, but TWO routah planes.

And, I'll freely admit, I'm not a master with the hand saw. Cut just outside the line and plane the rest…

At least my Grizzly jointer is getting some use in this toolchest build…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry- I did go with 1/2" copper fittings for ferrules. Still need to drill them. We'll see how that goes. 
Edit: I probably will go ahead and make a lathe-less screwdriver blog. It's getting a little involved….and I'm totally wingin' it. When I get something in my mind…

Steve- just research ideas like your doing. Don't make anything permanent, but make something you like…. and work with it for awhile. Builds more tills…..work with it awhile. That's kinda how it goes


----------



## RGtools

Steve, it 's nice to see the way you have approached your tasks and made your methods fit your situation. That is a great attitude to have towards any craft.

Your shop is not looking bad either….mine has looked MUCH worse, in fact does right now. Sometimes that just means you are working in it.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well, here's a prototype. It ain't much to look at, but it does feel nice in my big ol' hands.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Steve, I like the color of the Dutch chest. I will paint my chest too, but still have to choose the color.

Started working on the central raised panel of the lid. I have cut some fir recycled from a pallet:










The pieces are tongued & grooved and glued together, I prefer adding one piece time by time for a better control of the panel flatness. Moreover I have some troubles adding the groove to the narrower pieces (4 X 1.8 cm), since the wooden fence of the #50 interferes with the clamping, so I cut the tongue for each next piece, joint the it to the panel and the add the groove:










The final thickness will be about 1.5 cm so I will remove any roughness and marks with the bench planes.


----------



## SJD312

Good job on the t and g. I don't have the tools for that (yet). Trusting (hoping) the breadboards will keep it flat.


----------



## terryR

Strong looking work, Alex. Thanks for the inspiration!

Red, that handle looks great! I bet a coat of wax on the next one might show off the walnut better? I like the shape a lot.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks Terry. They're not as elegant as turned handles, but they're not bad. Still tweaking, but that's pretty much it. 
And ya, they'll be getting plenty of wax and lipstick when I'm done


----------



## ScaleShipWright

The raised panel for the lid is almost ready. My set up for cutting the grooves:










This morning I took Miss Marple(s) (dunno how I could call her "jack",  and flattened the panel, I removed about 1.5 mm from each side.










then started adding the external tongues, actually I made two rabbets on the opposite faces of each side.










Finally, the temporarily assembled panel (no glue). Perhaps I will chamfer the edges of the raised part, but still have to decide, suggestions are welcome!


----------



## theoldfart

SSW, I would chamfer it a little just to avoid dings and small slivers!
Just made room for the new router in the chest bottom, same as the other one. Moved the joiner fence to the outside wall of the saw till. Good new is still some room for more stuff! :0)


----------



## Anselth

Just spent the last few days reading through this whole thread. It's given me some really good ideas, but until my shop is set up to the point where I know where I have space and how much, I'm not sure qhat direction I'm going to go for tool storage, other than that I want something enclosed.

I'm mostly a galoot at heart, though I doubt I will stop using power tools entirely, especially since I do a bunch of home repairs. Here's the box I started, I have to finish it up with hardware and storage inside. This should look familiar to anyone who's done benchwork week at Roy's school. The only thing I've managed to do since I left was to cut the frame of the door flush on the mortised sides.










I thought the dovetails came out pretty well for my first time:










Here's the lid:










And the current residents.










I'm trying to decide on hardware. I think iron hardware like this would look nice, but I'm having trouble finding hinges that would match. I also need to figure out the interior storage. It's a small benchtop chest, so it could only hold a few small planes, saws, and chisels.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Kevin, thanks, I think I will go that way.

Anselth, nice chest. Are you going to paint it or give a natural finish? The wood looks very nice, much better than my cheap fir.


----------



## Anselth

SSW, I haven't decided, but I'm leaning towards milk paint. I don't know how well I'd be able to make the poplar look if I tried to stain it.


----------



## CL810

Alex, that's some great progress and results.


----------



## SJD312

Awesome job. Love the dovetails on the skirting. I've been tackling the internal organization for about a week, with little luck. Got the chisel holder and saw till built, but still not clear on how they're going together. Adam, I'm very happy with the milk paint on mine.


----------



## JayT

Some great progress being made. Don't have room for a tool chest, but did manage to finish up some storage today. Not sure whether to mention it in this thread, the HPOYD or "State of the Shop", but since all those threads seem to involve the same crowd . . . . . . . . .


----------



## knockknock

Finished the plane till in my lower section.


----------



## Anselth

Looks great, Knockknock…What's all in the rolls on the bottom?


----------



## knockknock

What's in the rolls:

pfiel bench chisel set
Sorby sash mortise chisels 1/8 → 1/2, 3/16 Ray Iles pig sticker
Ashley Iles chisels (london 5/8 → 1.5, butt 1/8 → 1/2 + 2", round 1/16 + skews)
Narex paring chisels
pfiel carving gouges
knives, punch, cold chisel, nail set, screw drivers and other misc
rasps and files
router plane blades
plow plane blades


----------



## terryR

Nice looking tills, guys! Jealous of that LV shooter I am, knock!

Just got my first chisel roll for Christmas…love it so much, I'm searching for brass hardware to sew one of my own! The LN rolls are super quality. just sayin'


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I do like the leather roll that came with the SW #750 re-issues; before that had no first-hand experience with any kind of tool rolls. Now there are several bopping around the shop that hold chisels and brace bits. I like them all.


----------



## knockknock

I like tool rolls, they are compact, portable and organized storage.


----------



## terryR

Hey, speaking of milk paint…
how well does it cover wood filler?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'd recommend primer vs. applying it directly to raw wood. I had some filler on the pewter cupboard project and that covered just fine w/ primer and milk paint. Added benefit it getting a relief color to show when the piece is stressed vs. showing just wood.


----------



## terryR

...primer in the plans already…
Thanks!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

A chest in use…


----------



## JayT

2014 hand tool calendar is available

There is even a page dedicated to tool chests and storage.


----------



## knockknock

Smitty, your tool chest looks a lot like the one for May in the hand tool calendar


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Another wonderful pic Smitty. I can almost hear some Supertramp in the background.


----------



## SJD312

Beautiful, Smitty. Here's the update on the Dutchman: Hanging tool holder and interior saw till completed. Saw holders on interior of lid completed. 100 cut nails from a barn deconstruction ordered and on their way. Working on interior cabinet of drawers.


----------



## theoldfart

Steve, you can get cut nails from Tremont Nail company in Massachusetts


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Knock, I had no idea about May. Stupid PC I'm on wouldn't allow me to flip through the thumbnails of the calendar this AM. My copy is ordered, though, and I'm looking forward to it!
.
.
Your progress looks great, Steve, it's really coming together nicely. Much faster than my build was (that took a year, basically). Sorry you have to get cut nails that way. When I was younger, helping my father with his 'hobby' of renovating and/or tearing down old houses, I pulled thousands of square nails. Kept what I thought was too many, and those are now in a couple Folders red coffee cans in the shop. All sizes. Tap them straight and it's 'instant Karma' time. Wish I had more, I'd open an ebay store. 
.
.
Thanks, Red. Me too, especially 'Long Way Home.'
.
.
One other thought for the tool chest users out there, but it starts with a story. Home Organizers say to turn the hangars backwards on everything in your closet, then discard / donate whatever remains backwards after one year because you don't need it. Regarding this chest, I'm beginning to think I should empty the sucker and just put in it whatever I use until it's full. In the three or so months I've had it completed, the tool I've reached for most often by far is the pencil kept in the top tray. Then the stick rule and tape measure. From there it's a huge tie for last between the #50, #51, #93 and bit brace. The rest of them? Not once. Makes a fella rethink the contents of a tool chest, I say…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Not just with a chest Smitty. With my french cleat board I'm starting to narrow down which tools I really want/need at an arms reach, and which one should be stored in cabinets. Ya know, try to cut back on the ones I need to wax and oil regularly;-)

Ok, the screwdrivers are done. I'll quit blabbing about them on all the wrong forums now.


----------



## realcowtown_eric

Big red said he's gonna narrow down which tools he really wanted.

Good luck with that!

Eric


----------



## Texcaster

When I was still working for bosses I used to hoik this box from job to job. Silver Ash & Kwila. These days it holds luthier tools and supplies.























































My bP logo


----------



## terryR

Bill, that's a great looking tool chest! Although it sure looks rather large for ME to carry anywhere! LOL.

Love the accent stripes, very nice touch, against the Ash. Simply blue paint?


----------



## Boatman53

That's a nice box (and tools) Bill. What are the general dimensions if you don't mind me asking?
Jim


----------



## CL810

Nice chest Bill. Stupid question, what' saw bP logo?


----------



## theoldfart

Someone mentioned tool rolls earlier,I've using them for a few years now:


















My wife made the two khaki colored ones, the black canvas one came from a tent sale at Lamson-Goodnow


----------



## Texcaster

Cheers fellas, the box is an odd size, 1015mm x 320mm x 320mm (40in x 12 5/8in x 12 5/8in ). It takes two people to shift. Oil base paint. The logo is for my name bill Paulin. The molding is a wheat shaft made with a dovetail bit.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Bill, that's a very nice chest, the specialyzed luthier's tools are intriguing.


----------



## knockknock

theoldfart, your wife did a great job on those tool rolls, she even used bias tape around the edges.


----------



## theoldfart

Knock, she is pretty handy to have around. She also made me a large sling to bring wood to my furniture class.


----------



## CL810

Sounds she wants you away at school. ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Ahem, exsqueeze me?


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Hello

the top lid is almost complete, still temporarily assembled (no glue & screws):










A detail of the banding. I decided to raise the panel a little to have more space under it for saws etc. In the groove goes a 1×3 cm piece to support the panel. More details to come before the final assembly.


----------



## theoldfart

I like it. I take it the frame has a tongue to mate with the groove on the mitered band?


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Kevin thanks, no, the frame is not tongued but lays on 1×3 cm pieces glued into the groove of each banding; these pieces will be just screwed to the frame (no glue).


----------



## theoldfart

I think I get it. Have to wait to see the final product.


----------



## terryR

I like it a lot, Alex.

My chest is sitting in the way while I finish up the swap tool…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

The banding is almost ready for assembly:




























Sorry for the not so clear photos, but they should give a picture of how the pieces are connected.


----------



## theoldfart

Alex, makes a whole lotta sense. I like your design, looking forward to seeing more progess and pics.


----------



## CL810

Alex, it's looking real nice. Great work.

Isn't the banding Alex refers to also called dust aprons or something like that? I have them on my blanket chest but can't remember the exact term.


----------



## knockknock

Maybe it is called a dust seal?


----------



## theoldfart

Dust seals or dust skirts:








With the top they form a labyrinth seal.


----------



## CL810

That's it Kevin, skirts was the word I was looking for. How were yours attached?


----------



## theoldfart

Top and bottom skirts were clamped when cutting the dove tails to make them as tight as possible then glued in place. The top seal is glued and cut nailed in place.








The bottom skirt extends 1" below the caracas and the bottom boards are nailed through the skirt and to the carcass sides


----------



## DanKrager

Well, Kevin, you've made good progress! How much does that weigh full of tools?

Here's what I've been working on. Two chests to match the first, so this tier is complete. Two more tiers to go…


















Waiting for warmer weather to do the finish and handles…that keeps me in the 98% club.
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, I have not tried to lift it by myself. It takes a good push to move around the shop, and I think it would be too much for even two guys to move up the stairs. I'm taking a small Dutch tool chest class in July so I can have a "portable" chest.


----------



## changeoffocus

Great topic and pictures, I'll watch and learn. Even if I do not make a box the organization of the tools is an inspiration.


----------



## theoldfart

FW have at it and ask questions. Folks around this thread will answer you and then some('specially me ;0)


----------



## CL810

Dan, I really like that chest. How will the lower planes be held in place?


----------



## DanKrager

The front chest has been in use for several months, and the planes are off balance on their heels toward the sole. They are further secured with neodymium magnets under the sole. They are not about to fall out!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Dan…they look great. Well done sir.


----------



## shipwright

Does this count as a toolbox?


----------



## CL810

I believe it does!


----------



## waho6o9

I concur.


----------



## DanKrager

A very nice tool box, Paul! And some outstanding tools!
DanK


----------



## terryR

Paul, that's over the top! Beautiful!

Looks like you love to work with wood, and have great skills to match your desires!

Lots of nice work here the past few days!

DanK, I really like the idea of a tool chest my height and revolving on casters…looks like you really are building it!


----------



## ScaleShipWright

A lot of interesting things in the last messages! Thanks for the name of that part of the chest I was not aware of.

Paul, your box looks fantastic, and the tools too.


----------



## BustedClock

There goes Paul, again. Showing off his mad skills, leaving the rest of us in the dust… Sawdust, that is.


----------



## basswood

I found my dream toolbox last year (I posted something about it in a measurement tool thread). It is an oak Pilliod Machinist Chest from around 1915 and came full of mostly Starrett tools.

The joinery is mostly simple box joints, and since it has lasted about 100 years-including about 50 years of heavy use-I will replicate it (rather than using dovetails, etc.). Certainly a proven design from a performance standpoint.


----------



## basswood




----------



## ScaleShipWright

Nice box and nice tools BW.

I have almost completed the lid. After gluing the dust skirts together I have screwed them to the lid:



















When I bought the screws I did not realize thery were for torx screwdriver, and I do NOT have a torx screwdriver of the proper size! I felt a lot stoopid, but then got around with an Allen wrench…
At the back the dust skirt are rounded and after installing the hinges the lid should stand on the upper dovetailed skirts.


----------



## CL810

Looks really good Alex!


----------



## knockknock

That top looks good ScaleShipWright.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Alex. You do nice work!

I keep noticing your hardwood floors…your shop? You going with casters or big handles? I had no idea nice looking trunk hardware was so expensive, till I window shopped at LV for trunk handles. Yikes! Going with 4 Grizzly casters on mine, and maybe a wooden handle. LOL.


----------



## SJD312

Howdy everyone. The Dutch Tool Chest is finished! Thank you to everyone for your advice and encouragement during the build. I posted the project this morning.


----------



## SJD312

Forgot to add a photo!


----------



## wormil

Great looking tool chest Steve.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Thank you for the generous comments.

Terry, I still do not have a real workshop, I do most of the "heavy" work on the balcony (currently a bit too cold), and have that room with wooden flooring for more light tasks. Still have not decided about casters and handles; I am currently thinking about the internal organization.

Now a couple of questions for the more experienced:

1) I suppose it is better to complete the internal features before attaching the lid, am I right?
2) Once the lid has been hinged and attached to the chest, when it is raised how do you safely keep it in position, preventing it from working like a giant mouse-trap?

Thanks


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Steve, your Dutch chest looks awesome


----------



## donwilwol

That looks like a great box SJ. What holds the saws in when the cover is closed?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

1) I suppose it is better to complete the internal features before attaching the lid, am I right?

-I worked the inside post-lid and it wasn't a problem.

2) Once the lid has been hinged and attached to the chest, when it is raised how do you safely keep it in position, preventing it from working like a giant mouse-trap?

-Gravity. Assuming it tilts safely past vertical, it should stay open without any kind of stay (unless you're in a windstorm, of course).


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty and SSW, I have tagged myself in the head a couple of times when I went into the chest from the side. I'd inadvertently lean on the chain and pull the lid down! Darwin I guess. :0)
I also did lots of stuff with the lid attached.


----------



## terryR

Steve, that chest came out great! Nice hinges!
( now I will start to focus on tool chest hardware, not the tools! )


----------



## terryR

So…do you guys want to:

a-watch me cut dovetails into 1/2" birch ply for tills,
b-watch me cut DT's in 14% MC cherry, and see what happens,
c-watch me build a shop kiln, dry the cherry, then cut DT's,
d-order some tills from BigRed.

Hey, Red…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Smitty thanks for answering;

about question n 2) I was a bit concerned about the lid been accidentaly hit by something when raised (my working space is rather cramped) and wondering if some kind of support could prevent it from falling. Btw it happened to me with the toilet seat lol.

Edit: Kevin I think it's rather some Murphy's law


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Chain free


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, I have never tried to cut by hand DT in ply but I am not a DT expert, those in my chest are my very first attempt.


----------



## theoldfart

My chest lid will stay open like Smitty's, however I was concerned about opening the chest too aggressively and ripping out the hinges.


----------



## SJD312

Looking gorgeous, oldfart. No chains on my lid and it stays open fine. Don, good eye: I've yet to answer that question. I may install a leather strap or cleat in the center.


----------



## bandit571

Posting to get to the bottom:

Working on a chest to throw a few tools into









Just an end panel, in a dry fit. Raised the panels using a #4 plane…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry- I'd build some tills if ya wanted. Not 100% sure if my dovetails are much better than yours though. Do ya have any other hardwoods you could plane down to 1/2"?

I experimented with dovetailing 1/2" baltic birch a little while back. It went….ok. Little dicey when you wanna plane any protruding pins without planing through that first layer of ply though.

Actually, I picked up a sheet of white oak ply today. It's for that last "phase" of my tool storage. Starting to draw up the tool cabinets that go below my joinery bench. In my heart I want to build them much like Smitty's bench cabinet ; entirely solid wood, dovetailed carcass etc. But practicality won out. These are gonna be some pretty big cabinets. And I could build most of them with the odds and ends in my plywood cart.

So I splurged on one nice sheet of wht oak ply for the parts you'll see. Here goes nothin.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Aw, Man! I'd have loved to follow that one (I still will, of course)!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sorry buddy. I promise it will followed be followed with a completely solid wood furniture builds…..shared on LJs….if ya'll are tired of me by then


----------



## kenn

Alright, I'm ready to join the conversation! Here's what I've been working on…

I hope those are worthy of consideration. I'm starting on the tills this week. I'm going to use tiger maple sides and cherry bottoms for the tills. The interior is fitted out with cherry. The exterior is butternut.


----------



## kenn

I wish I could figure out how to get the entire picture to appear, you'll have to accept these teasers until that happens, sorry.


----------



## NinjaAssassin

That's a great toolbox. Are those moulding planes along the back?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Excellent Ken. The pics have to be downsized to 600xwhatever pixels to fit here. I'll try and fix em for ya.

I think you've got me beat on the LN addiction. Do they have meetings for guys like us?


----------



## kenn

Thanks for the help Red, I'll have to learn how to do that.

I think the L-N meetings are in Maine 

Those molding planes are some awesome Bickford planes, a half set of hollows and rounds, side rounds, snipes bill, rabbet and side beads along with a vintage match pair (tongue & groove).


----------



## SJD312

Wow. Wow. Wow!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Beautiful, Kenn!


----------



## kenn

It will rank high on the galoot index Smitty since I don't kill many electrons in my work, just a planer to thickness and rip cuts on the table saw. I flatten all boards with hand planes, and final smoothing too. Hand cut dovetails all over the place on the chest. I'd have to go check the judges score cards for the final galoot score (hope the French judge doesn't shaft me) plus I still need to stick the landing.

I may be watching too much of the Olympics.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That is a powerful score in the making, plus there's lots of brass and cast iron in the chest itself. The Bickfords are a total wow factor, too. Did you add any mouldings using those? Off the chart…


----------



## donwilwol

yowza!!


----------



## SJD312

Kenn, I can't stop looking at those pics. Absolutely beautiful.


----------



## theoldfart

Kenn, is that a crab lock? Awesome chest and fine Bickford collection. How about a few exterior pics?


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Kenn! You have a gorgeous collection of tools, BTW! 

Rehab meetings in Maine? Goodness gracious that's a LONG way from home! I'm doomed, especially if LN sends me the hardback catalog in the post this year!!!


----------



## terryR

Red, thanks for the offer on some tills. Postage would kill the deal…

All I have dry is Red Oak from the Borg…splurged on that for my skirts. I may just build 1/2" birch ply tills, and hope my growing tool collection gets noticed over the tills.  Still pondering…


----------



## kenn

I didn't make any curved moldings on the chest, all straight chamfers, but I did use the rabbet plane. Check out my projects for some mirrors made with the Bickfords.

The exterior pics will need to wait…I'm saving those for when I'm done, sorry. I've got a little exterior cleanup to do and the I'm putting Tried & True on the exterior.

That is a crab lock, made by Peter Ross, as well as the hinges. They are sweeet!

Thanks for the comments and encouragement , I'm getting excited about it since it's getting so close to completion.


----------



## theoldfart

Looking forward to the completion Ken.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Kenn, great tool chest there, but I expected gold plated hardware to match the beautiful tool set! lol


----------



## theoldfart

WIll this do?


















I mean the screws are GOLD and clocked


----------



## thechipcarver

My dream toolbox is setting in my dream workshop filled with my dream tools.


----------



## kenn

I don't have any handles on my chest but I'd put those on for sure, send 'em!


----------



## theoldfart

Mine was there for a long time, patience!


----------



## pjped

Kenn, I'm speechless… -Pete


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry- what about some box joint tills with 1/2" baltic birch? That would look good. It's pretty easy to make a box joint jig for the tablesaw.


----------



## waho6o9

What Pete said.


----------



## SJD312

does clocking mean always setting the screws to 12:00 or setting them in line with the grain?


----------



## donwilwol

typically clocking means just making them all the same.


----------



## TerryDowning

clocked screws!! strong stuff!!


----------



## theoldfart

Not sure if its strong or just OCD :0)


----------



## donwilwol

with *real* OCD they would have to be with the grain!


----------



## theoldfart

Actually they are, see the knot on the left!


----------



## donwilwol

LOL right now!


----------



## theoldfart

glad to be of service to the snow bound!


----------



## ScaleShipWright

some progress with the bottom of the chest:


















The ledges for the sliding tills are almost ready:


----------



## knockknock

Nice, French fitting your planes.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

I have made the cleats for the gents:










These are fine toothed saws that I mainly use for ship modeling purpose.


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Alex. Love your till supports all rabbeted together!

Limited shop time for me lately…wife needs somewhere special for the goats to give birth in a month, so I'm in the barn for a few weeks. But…once I'm done…she owes me!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

+1 Alex. It's been fun watching this come together.


----------



## basswood

The Pilliod tool chest I posted was of the machinist variety and is about 100 years old. I just found a similar carpenter's tool box of the same vintage that just about makes for a matched set. Similar oak stock with box jointed corners. The box opens to display a two saw till in the lid.

I will try to figure out the what's, where's and how's of the other tools that would have been kept in this tool box.

This tool box will be set up as I think it would have been used with tools from the period. I will also make reproductions of this tool box and the Pilliod chest for use in my carpentry business.


----------



## Boatman53

That chest is on Craigslist in Wisconsin for 65$ Here http://wausau.craigslist.org/tls/4335986947.html a lot more photos as long as the ad lasts.
Jim


----------



## basswood

I arranged to purchase it today. I pick it up tomorrow.


----------



## Boatman53

Congradulations can't wait to see how you set it up with your tools. We'll look forward to it. I didn't realize you were buying it.
Jim


----------



## terryR

Yes, congrats, basswood, what a gem for $65!


----------



## basswood

Thanks Jim and Terry,

It fits my design paradigm. I am a working carpenter (though today the kids are home for presidents day, so I am watching after them). Anyway, I'm a bit of an odd duck. Not quite a real woodworker, but aspire to higher quality than most carpentry projects can accommodate.

I did not mean to be offensive in regard to the type of joinery I prefer to use in tool boxes. I don't want cobbled together, glued and nailed lap joints, nor do I want dovetails. I want the journeyman carpenter's box jointed, daily driver.

Solid construction far above the blow molded plastic crap most carpenters use today, but not fine wood working or the Studley tool chest either. This is the kind of work I do (for context here… not a commercial):

http://basswoodartisancarpentry.com/

I'll minimally restore this tool box and study it, and use it for restored tools in the shop. It will inspire a similar box I can build and use daily in my work.


----------



## CL810

Nice work basswood.


----------



## basswood

Thanks Clay,

I picked up the carpenters tool box this afternoon. It weighs 15 pounds empty. It has homemade spring clamps just inside the lid, I think for holding a pencil or pencil compass/scribe. And some homemade hooks. I have figured out the ingenious place the box held a framing square. Photos will follow.

Cheers, Brian


----------



## yuridichesky

This is what my dream tool chest looks like at the moment:










Pretty small one (20" long, 14" high, 15" deep) designed to sit under the benchtop of my little workbench.

Case and 4 drawers ready for glue-up. Hope to get to the "ready for finish" point in a couple of days.


----------



## theoldfart

Yuri, given how well your other projects have turned out I can't wait to see this one. Did you get to use your fine router on this one?


----------



## CL810

DTs looking good Yuri. +1 on the can't wait for the blur up. Have you decided on the finish?

*Edit*: glue up not blur up. Dang autocorrect


----------



## yuridichesky

Kevin, thank you.

Yes, I did use router plane a lot for this project cutting dadoes for drawers slides:


----------



## yuridichesky

Andy, I'm thinking about water-based polyurethane. The case and larger drawer are made of laminated pine panels that I bought at Leroy Merlin store (some kind of Home Depot ala Europe). I have to say it's the ugliest stuff I dealt with so far: soft, uneven, prone to splitting. So my idea is to put some hard finish on it.


----------



## CL810

Yuri, I'm starting to like water based poly. I know that puts me in a minority here. Lay down a few coats, sand smooth to get rid of brush stroke, and then hit it with a coat of wipe on poly.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Cool Yuri. I've never seen someone recess metal slides like that.

Water poly- I need to start trying it. I'm so comfortable with oil-based it's hard to change. My painter buddy claims it sprays pretty well.


----------



## yuridichesky

Thank you, Red. One slide is about half an inch wide, two of them make an inch. So I just bought me one inch of storage space - pretty good for my closet-size shop.


----------



## DanKrager

IMHO water poly sprays just fine and makes a nice finish. I sprayed some on an oak rocker we use often and the intent was to determine if this finish would become sticky after long exposure to sweaty arms and backs. The upshot is that it has stood up well over the last several years…yet I just have trouble switching to it from lacquer. I thinks it's because I believe polyurethanes to be a rather unserviceable finish, should it ever need it. Second and subsequent coats do not chemically bind…only mechanically according to the research I've read. It is therefore nearly impossible to touch up a limited area on an old poly surface and expect it to blend and hold under stressful conditions. I just can't seem to make it happen, especially with the ease of touching up or servicing oil, lacquer, shellac or even varnish. I'm not saying it's good or bad, just sharing my limited experience with it so far. 
I can testify that a 47 year old set of salad bowls I put oil based poly on are still going strong and looking none the worse for their age under weekly use, un-retouched. 
DanK


----------



## CL810

47 years…hmmm, well I guess that's a start. ;-)


----------



## yuridichesky

Dan, thank you for input, you really make a point here. Speaking about water-based poly for this project: it smells not that bad which is important for my apartment-located shop.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

I have managed to squeeze all my planes (not many indeed!) into the bottom of the tool chest:



















the fence and the cutters of the 50 found their way too:










there is still some space for a low angle block and for a one or two shoulder planes that I have to buy in the future.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Alex! Now that you have jumped ahead of my progress, I have someone to copy!  How will you attach your till supports…just on top of your planes?

My toolchest build has reached the point of paralysis. No progress since I cannnot decide what to build the interior from. Was expecting a sweet load of cherry…it's all too wet to use! I tried dovetails in the 1/2" birch ply a few days ago, and they are fair. I tried some in red oak yesterday which look much better, but I don't wanna buy hardwood from the Borg just on principle…I already bought one stick for my outer aprons.

Luckily, I have numerous projects to focus on, whilst deciding about my chest tills. Something The Old Fart said a month ago rings in my head, "Don't build anything permanent…leave it ready for changes." So, I'm now leaning towards birch tills since the friggin ply is in the way in my shop…and upgraded to cherry later…

Of course, we know how that upgrade will never happen… 

Damn, I wish I had the capital to open a hardwood store around here! just sayin'


----------



## Mosquito

Yuri, Speaking about water-based poly for this project: it smells not that bad which is important for my apartment-located shop.

I know exactly what you mean lol. For small to moderately sized projects, I'd still use shellac if I could, but for larger projects, especially something abuse prone (tool chest, table, coat rack, for example) I'd use water poly as well. Initial smell from oil poly could be dealt with by using a fan in the window (closing door to room), and using a space heater if the outside temp was too cold. But the curing time for oil poly still stunk for a while…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, not my intention to induce paralysis. Use SYP and experiment. My interior tills are all pine with oak bottoms and slides.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Kevin, pine with oak bottoms has also crossed my mind. Just wanted hardwood…whine…LOL

Seems like birch ply with oak bottoms would be plenty stable? AND, I already have the ply…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, thanks for commenting; I will just leave the necessary space between the tills supports and the planes to allow bringing them out without troubles. I am currently designing the chisels holder, the last item I am going to install before the tills supports. BTW everything is fixed with few screws, so it can be reconfigured if necessary. Take your time and enjoy planning the interiors.


----------



## bandit571

For now, this will just have to do









a single tray. Maybe a look at the outside









first seal coat on. Black walnut, Sycamore, and Pine. Raised the panels with just a couple handplanes.


----------



## terryR

Yep, noticed your raised panels on another forum, Bandit, love them! Also noticed the legs…less bending over!!!


----------



## yuridichesky

Now tool chest of my dreams looks like this:










Next stop is hardware installation.


----------



## theoldfart

Yuri, through tenons on the drawer fronts?


----------



## yuridichesky

Yes, Kevin, they are:


----------



## yuridichesky

I found through tenons quite forgiving in execution, the joint looks very accurate on the show side and on inner side too. I had to wedge tenons on the show side of one drawer to eliminated gaps, but this was my very first attempt of such joint, all others went gapless.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, extra galoot points awarded for the work that went into those drawers for sure.


----------



## DanKrager

Awwww Bandit! You put those panels in backwards…wrong side out! Just funnin' ya. That is a most interesting case! Those stark panels are an "across the room" identifier (yep that's MY tool chest), yet their grain is as interesting as the walnut. Fascinated by the galootness therein.

Ya'll do know that the original idea behind "raising a panel" was primarily to thin the edges to fit in the frame groove, leaving the show side flat. At some point someone decided the back side looked better than the front, and did a bold move, starting a new fashion.

Yuri, I like what you did with the drawers! Neat. What are you using for pulls?
DanK


----------



## CL810

The through tenons are most excellent. That was a bold brave move Yuri.


----------



## knockknock

I finally made my chisel / tool racks.



















The paring chisels are too long, so the chisels in that rack have to be put back in their rolls before closing the lid.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^That's a handsome setup there Knock.


----------



## knockknock

Thanks BigRed.


----------



## terryR

+1 to the dutch chest…love it! Nice lil dovetailed cubby hole for the tool rolls.

Gotta ask…what's the wood used, Knock?


----------



## knockknock

The main carcass is made of those pre-glued pine panels from Home Depot. The tongue and grooved back, and most of the tills is made from 1" x 12" pine from Lowes. The thin stock is poplar.


----------



## terryR

^THANKS! Just looking for options. There are too many! LOL.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Well done Knock!

I have installed the chisel holder. I have chosen a very simple design: a single beech (I have recycled a bed's stave) plank supported by a cleat:


----------



## wormil

I've long been sold on the Dutch chest then noticed this one in an older issue of Shopnotes and I'm having 2nd thoughts. What I like is the drop front lid but that gets in the way of the bottom drawer and it isn't really designed for woodworking tools, more a machinist's tool chest. But it sure looks nice.


----------



## knockknock

ScaleShipWright, very nice detail on your simple cleat.


----------



## DanKrager

Rick, could you work out a plan to hinge the lid along the top instead of the bottom of the lid? That little chest does look pretty cool.
You guys are doing some bang up revival of the old tool chests! Great woodworking!
DanK


----------



## yuridichesky

Dan, I'm going to make some traditional ring pulls, something like this:










SSW and KK, you're building great stuff, so many ideas to steal


----------



## yuridichesky

Smitty, Andy, thank you guys, through tenons now becoming one of my favorite joints. Maybe until the moment when I screw them up


----------



## Lazy_K

Hi
OMG I wish I could take the time to make a really nice tool crib(s)! However, getting work done always gets in the way. like my workbench my tool boxes/storage has always suffered. fortunately none of my clients has been the type to want to judge my ability by seeing my shop.

I've seen lots of good ideas on this thread, and even though they are not pretty since you showed me yours I'm gonna show you mine. You will all notice that I have too many tools. that is not a brag, I really should get rid of some of the ones that never get used.

we'll start with my favorite and oldest shall we?










it has a deep well under the lift top that I keep rarely used tools in…. since I obviously pile things on top of it (bad habit)










top drawer is most used chisels and knives.










2nd drawer is crook incanal gouges and mortice chisels.










3rd drawer is spokeshaves, go devils, my travisher and spoon bits (travisher and spoon bits by Fred Emhoff)
and then we descend into madness










4th drawer is layout, marking and measuring tools, all akimbo.










5th drawer is random specialty planes and other tools










bottom drawer is more of the same.
it is @ 20" wide and 24" tall and 16" deep (outside) And is up 3" to allow room under it for things that I used to stuff under there. it has "always" sat up on this corner of this workbench (it did a 9 year stint on another workbench in another shop).

next tool box:










the lower part was built in @ 2 hours while working for someone else. it was made to fit inside an existing workbench, the top drawer is divided into 3 parts that run front to back. and is full of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, and "stuff", piled full, it's not a pretty sight.









the second drawer:

is organised for my chisels , planes and 2 back saws. 
the Bottom drawer has pry bars, heavy paint scrapers, extra tool handles and tool handle stock, dust masks, and is just crammed full.

the top 2 parts are filled with : honing stones, finger planes, peg reamers, carving tools, dremel tool and bits and bits, polishing tools, polishing bits and grinders (pneumatic whizzy tools, straight and rt angled) tap and die set etc etc and a drawer full of allen wrenches.

I like my plane till I made:










but it gets covered with dust. and sits on top of a shelf unit that holds my molding planes:










sadly the rest of my tools are consigned to pegboards or open shelves





































well you get the idea 
maybe someday I'll have the wherewithal to make it all pretty 
but until then in my space (as ever before) if I need drawers then I need to get them done fast. I've no time to be wasting maken em pretty. 
the workbench that I made in half a day was supposed to be temporary. I'll make a better one later when I have time 









so now it's 32 years later and I still drag it with me for every move 'cause it's held up very well and I don't want to take a week to make a better one.

OMG what a mess! have I been working in that? guess I'd better go tidy up and get back to work.

bee well all.
Karl


----------



## terryR

Yuri, you have a forge? Or good grinding wheels? I really like those pulls…forgive my stupid question…How are those pulls installed? The long shank is surely thicker than the wood. Bent over afterwards? Gotta know! 

More photos of tool chest interiors, please!!! And roughly how deep are you guys' tills? I was sorta thinking of one each at 2", 3", and 5"...

Just realized last night, I've been stressing slightly over which wood to use inside. Answer: any I have. It's the joinery and little decorative brackets like Alex is making that matters! I sure as hell don't need to build sliding tills until AFTER my base is filled, duh. I love it when the lightbulb comes on!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Cool Shop Karl. Thanks for posting.


----------



## terryR

Lots of great ideas to look at Karl, Thanks! Love the wooden handles on the side of the old red tool chest!


----------



## yuridichesky

Terry, have a look here

I don't have a forge, but I've got propane torch and some machinist vise, so I hope I'll figure out something.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Karl, thanks for sharing, you have a lot of cool tools


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Yuri. I have pulled square nails out of my barn that were installed like that…cussing, and wondering how they did it…now I know!


----------



## SCOTSMAN

I don't know about you guys, but I find water based poly very soft when dried and scratches easily or scuff marks much easier than .I have some here but I tend to go for the spray on oil or chemical plastic based stuff . Alistair


----------



## Slyy

Wow, finally got done looking through the whole thread. There is some seriously mind-blowing tool chests in here! I must say though, from the most complex to the simplest, everyone's in this thread is amazing! Some great ideas floating around here, hopefully I'll have one to share of my own sooner rather than later.
Strong work all!


----------



## racerglen

No dream. but my grandfathers chest



















He served in WW 1, and died in the late 1950's, my dad used the chest for mechanics tools and parts and about 30-35 years ago it became mine.









It's 27" long/wide, 16 and a half deep and 12" high outside, but owing to the layers of wood quite shallow inside.
I added the brass latch and handles when I got it, but they're going..going..needs some old style rusty stuff.








But I may keep the 80's sticker..
Put a set of 2" castors under it today, stilll don't know what it'll hold, maybe my parts planes (at least a few ;-)
it certainly can't hold them all..


----------



## onesojourner

Mine is a work in progress.


----------



## bandit571

I think mine is almost done









Filling up fast, too…...


----------



## mochoa

Love seeing all these tool chests.


----------



## Lazy_K

"dream toolbox now" ! 
I do a bit of camping with a medieval reenactment group. So a couple of years ago I whipped this up as a "study" and for use in camp as camp furniture.



















it is based on this image:










the original was oak, my study is in pine and put together with screws and pocket screws (Kreg jig)
this year I need two more chests to take tools in to teach classes with. I'm planning to make the "same" thing but bigger to have the interior dimensions and fittings similar to the Anarchists tool chest.

K


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Ye have a fancy chest, Sir K!

I am routing the pockets for the hinges with one of my favourite tools:


----------



## knockknock

Bandit, I like the idea of having one of the tills as a carry tote.


----------



## AnthonyReed

That is a beautiful router SSW.


----------



## terryR

Nice chest, K.

+2 to the lovely routah plane, Alex…

Just realized yesterday, my tool chest build has reached the most fun part…playing with, I mean, organizing all my hand tools! Here's a shot of the base filled with my bench planes…










Just enough room for a Stanley no.2, and maybe another LN?  Block planes will have to go in a till…

Still trying to decide on a bunch of small sticks separating these bench planes, or just a whole piece of 1/2" ply added to the bottom for french fitting?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^oohhhhh. Ahhhhhh! Good fun.


----------



## theoldfart

I would vote for Ply, your back will thank you for it. Bending over to set things up will get mighty tiring.


----------



## terryR

A very nice observation, Kevin. Thanks for remembering I have a post-op back!  Shaping all that on the bench top just makes plane sense…

After staring at the photo, I think I'll go with 2 ( or more ) 1×12's, so that removal is easier down the road. Thinned to 1/2" and fitted with finger pulls…

Edit…If anyone is willing to ship me your Stanley no.2 and no.8 so I can correctly add those spots to my base, please PM! LOL


----------



## Mosquito

I'll let you rent my #2 and #8 ;-)


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Mos, you're a SW! 

Actually, I can get by with just rectangular measurements of the heft and hubris' base. But, I'll need that no.2 since the tote sticks out the rear!

So, how much to rent the no.2 and the blue wig? LOL!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

All of my no8's measure 23 7/8" x 3 1/8". An LN could be wider though;-)

Can't help ya with a no 2 though.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Terry, after your photo I realized the size of your chest: impressive (as your plane collection)!


----------



## ScaleShipWright

I have started organizing the underside of the lid; my tool chest is quite small so I need to optimize all the available space. The first item is the blade of the ryoba:


----------



## Slyy

Tool chests are looking solid everybody!

You got plenty of room in that chest Terry, where are gonna attach the swivels for the shoulder sling?

SSW that is a very nice looking router plane you've got there!!!


----------



## knockknock

ScaleShipWright, wow, nifty way to hold the saw blade.


----------



## WayneC

Did you guys see the How to build Viking Tool Chest Video that popular woodworking is about to release? Sounds like he forges some of his own hardware.

*Video*





http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/mastermyr-tool-chest-video-coming-soon


----------



## bandit571

I think Roy Underhill had a show about this chest awhile back.


----------



## wormil

The Mastermyr Tool Chest has been on my to-do list since seeing it on The Woodwright's Shop. I found a set of plans somewhere but have never gotten around to it. Unfortunately I don't have the means to make the hardware so it will be "inspired by" and not a reproduction.

edit:
plans: http://www.angelfire.com/wy/svenskildbiter/Viking/vikchest.html


----------



## terryR

Great stuff, guys.

The past 2 days, I conducted a small experiment to see if I could french fit planes in birch ply…










Worked much better than I anticipated since the layers of ply sorta want to be de-laminated. Lots of the work was done with just a chisel and old paintbrush…routah occasionally to clean up. I went ahead and inlaid the no.4 next to the no,3 just to make sure that 1/2" strip of ply left behind was sturdy enough to handle planes coming and going.

I was so happy with the results, I cut a piece to fit the base of my tool chest, added finger pulls, and traced out the first ELEVEN bench planes to fit…holy crap…I could be over my head! LOL










I looked at 1/8" thick ply at the borg yesterday…thought about just cutting the shape of the base of each plane completely through the 1/8" material and gluing to another solid piece. Nah, too easy! My method is sure to give me many shop hours this week! And, valuable experience.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, don't do it. Once you French fitted you can't aquire any more planes! Those are the rules( you know how the French are….), you will become depressed and suicidal watching everyone else get cool tools and bragging on HPOYD and alas Terry has no room. Oh the pain of it! :0)

Nice job anyway


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Kevin, how 'bout an external plane till for the extras?

Believe me, your point has crossed my mind a few times since french fitting isn't that versatile! LOL. But, I'm leaving room for one LN! And one more jointer…


----------



## john2005

Brilliant Terry, looks sweet. I may not be that bold, but it looks trick.


----------



## Mosquito

Terry, I think it's going to look sweet with all the planes french fit… I've thought about doing that before too, but gave up on that idea in the interest of time, and the fact that my plane collection, at the time, was still growing quickly. Went with my adjustable design instead.

Emilie (my fiance) happened across the blue wig when she was helping me pack up to move into the house. Not sure where that ended up lol


----------



## JayT

Emilie (my fiance) happened across the blue wig when she was helping me pack up to move into the house. Not sure where that ended up lol

You're gonna come home some night and find her going all Roubo Girl on your bench. Yowzas!


----------



## Mosquito

I'll have to get a picture off my old phone…


----------



## bandit571

These are getting lonely









As there is no more room in the Tool Chest. Maybe I should have built a longer one









But I don't think there is any room left in the shop for it, AND me









So, time to plane a better "Ready Rack" for the ones left out….


----------



## Slyy

Terry saw that pic in another thread and was scratching wondering why you had plane sole tracings! Duh, the toolbox thread! Can't wait to see your project further along, it's gonna be a good one.

Bandit you're still making due with your little cold dungeon space, that chest turned out very nice indeed.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

After the blade was the handle's turn to find its place under the lid:










Some details: you can notice the magnet to hold the metal part:



















Who's next? Probably the fretsaw…


----------



## theoldfart

SSW, really coming along! I haven't figured out a fitted spot for either of mine so will be watching you….


----------



## yuridichesky

SSW, very elegant interior of the lid, looks classy.


----------



## yuridichesky

Now my tool chest looks like finished!










Moved to its own place, under the benchtop:










Started to fill top drawer:










Have many more pictures of the build, hope to write a project entry this weekend.


----------



## theoldfart

Looks fantastic Yuri. I'm looking forward to the project posting.


----------



## CL810

Alex and Yuri are burning this thread up today!


----------



## theoldfart

Me and my poplar box are gonna' go hide.


----------



## CL810

LOL Kevin! I was thinking the same thing!


----------



## theoldfart

It's tough being upstaged by them young talented whippersnappers.


----------



## wormil

Very slick work guys. This thread never fails to impress.


----------



## yuridichesky

As for me, Kevin, I just silently envy how cool and authentic your tool chest is.

Plus look at my so-called chisels in the drawer, can you imagine how miserable I feel showing them up?

Peace!


----------



## CL810

It's not the tool, Yuri, it's what gets done with the tool. Must be some very fine chisels.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Yuri, those drawers look so good…And fit the bench nicely.


----------



## theoldfart

Yuri, I'm with CL810, your work proves fine tools are not required for true craftsmanship. Yours must be well sharpened and cared for to turn out the things you do. You got skilz young man, I'm still learning!


----------



## terryR

Looks awesome, Yuri. Unique, and well executed.

+1 to copying some of Alex's ideas! IF I ever get past the base.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Just completed the fret saw holder, simple but effective:




























there is still space for some sort of blades holder, hmmm….. And yes, I hate that plastic handle!


----------



## realcowtown_eric

Looks great…..And so clean and tidy…

Jealous Eric


----------



## yuridichesky

SSW, great care and thought-out design detected on your tool chest lid. I wish I had such a patience.


----------



## yuridichesky

Wrapped up tool-chest build as a project entry, lots of pics and details for the curious:


----------



## AnthonyReed

Beautiful work SSW and Yuri.


----------



## RGtools

Confession time:

I freaking love my bucket tote.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hello, Ryan! Good to see you!


----------



## Mosquito

I'm definitely going to have to come up with a good storage solution for my saws, and probably some extra planes. My till is full (and then some), and I don't think I want to set my saws on the floor anymore (would probably be murderous on the wood floor). Not much storage space in the new shop area, so I'll have to get creative


----------



## leopard887

Looks great!


----------



## knockknock

I added a suspended shelf to my tool chest, 2 screws in each end plate into inserts in the sides of the chest. My through tenons holding the center lower shelf support aren't as nice as Yuri's, but they are interesting. They are wedged half dovetail through tenons, which along with the dovetails at the ends of the shelves, means no glue. So when I eventually replace that white box with a drawer, I can take the shelves apart.


----------



## theoldfart

K Knock, good thinking. I'm always contemplating new arrangements for the chest.


----------



## terryR

Looks good, Knock!

Slow progress here…but I finally got those eleven bench planes french fit into birch ply headed for my tool chest base. It really wasn't that difficult, just tedious and boring. I'll fit the no.7 along the other side, then it's time for brackets for the weird-shaped planes. 










Sorry for that ugly Jr. Jack. He won't be allowed into the finished chest until restored. The no.40 is already down to the bare metal, and waiting for fresh wood (kinda dropped off the radar since Candy gave me that awesome scrub plane in the swap), and the 5 1/2 is just being cleaned with citrus de-greaser quickly…to explain all the missing knobs.

Time to shop for casters, and continue thinking of a possible base for the chest to sit on…


----------



## knockknock

*terryR said:* "Slow progress here…"

Ha, ha, I started my tool chest last july.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, what if you get a 40 1/2? hehe


----------



## CL810

Since we're on the topic of slow progress….

Finally got around to making and installing the holders for my 12ppi xcut panel saw.


----------



## knockknock

CL810, I checked out your tool chest project, nicely done. I like the drawers on the bottom.


----------



## yuridichesky

Andy, very cool!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Andy, is that the only panel saw you'll have in the dutchy? How'd you decide the 12pt X got you the most bang for the buck? If it were me, I'd have included that one because it's so damn good looking…


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, nice fitted setup.


----------



## terryR

Sweet saw, Andy! Took me a 1/2 hour to see the toolchest…LOL.

Your photo was perfect timing for me since I've been debating using contrasting woods for the tills. Your half blind DT's really show up nicely! Of course, being cut to perfection doesn't hurt!

In other ground-breaking news, I built a small box to hold my 42 in the chest's base. Poplar and walnut and rabbets.

Hey, how do you guys secure small brackets and tills inside your chest? Shortest screws you can find? Thanks in advance…


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Well done Clayton, I need to think about some kind of holder too.


----------



## knockknock

terryR,

I have mostly been using 1/4×20 inserts and brass bolts (slotted flat head) to attach my tills etc. to the chest. The sides of my chest are only 5/8", so I only sink the insert to the top of the threads and counter sink the back side of what I am attaching. If a bolt is too long, I just hack saw it to the desired length.

In a few places, like the handle on the front panel of the chest. I have been using 1/4×20 quick connect large head bolts.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, my chest walls are almost !" thick so not too much of a problem. The bottom angled plane tills are resting on dowels inserted into the chest sides.


----------



## CL810

Thanks guys.

*Smitty*, it is the only panel saw right now. I haven't found the right rip saw yet, I can only accommodate saws with an overall length of up to 28". I hope to place a rip and a 8 or 9 ppi xcut in the top half section of the lid.


----------



## CL810

Knock knock - funny you looked up my project - yesterday when I posted on this thread and saw your tool chest pic I realized I had somehow been asleep on your posts. I spent a half hour digging thru this thread and your blog pics. Time well spent.

Terry, go for the half blinds buddy - they're easier than full DTs.


----------



## terryR

Half-blinds are easier? cool…haven't even tried one yet!

wow, 1/4-20 inserts and brass bolts? I better put my reading glasses back next to the computer so I can see the bling! LOL. I had considered countersunk set screws…but forgot I was dealing with a ply carcase. doh!

Gonna look at McMaster Carr and see what kind of flat heads they have in black…or brass…


----------



## CL810

You can hide all kinds of mistakes in half blinds that would kill a project with full DTs.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, I'm shocked! How can you say such a thing, heresy I say, just heresy.


----------



## CL810

It's just something I heard. ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Oh , OK……


----------



## DanKrager

Terry, just a (maybe not so helpful) thought…a brass finishing washer is good bling under a flat head bolt and adds good holding power in a soft substrate like plywood.
DanK


----------



## terryR

damn, dreamed of my tool chest last night…

just realized the areas where I need to attach till offer me 3/4" ply PLUS the 3/4" red oak skirts on the outside!

man, I feel stupid. 

Dan, what's a. brass finishing washer look like? Now that I remember the oak, I'm leaning towards threaded inserts and set screws…


----------



## DanKrager

This is a brass (colored) finishing washer.
DanK


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Dan. We have those in stainless on the hot tub…does look nice!

Edit…LV has box of 100 for $5…sweet.


----------



## terryR

...ooohh…ahhh…even more bling…










64 cents each for a size 8 in brass. Guess I better use sparingly! LOL.


----------



## SJD312

Looking good, CL. Looks like you went with the milk paint?


----------



## CL810

Steve, I went with 4 coats of different paint colors and then sanded. Milk paint would've been too easy.


----------



## SJD312

Nice!


----------



## bandit571

Ok, camera now has a tripod to help out, so









With the lid up out of the way. Sliding tray, tote tray, chisel tray









remove the chisel tray and find a saw till below it.









Pull the slider aside, and find a few hand planes hiding in the bottom. You can also see a few of the construction details, too. Not too bad a little box..


----------



## CL810

Nice Bandit - the tripod helped.


----------



## JADobson

I was just thinking the other day about how this thread hasn't seen much action lately. I'm not building a chest but its been fun watching this thread. Glad to see Bandit bringing it back with that great box.


----------



## palaswood

I've got a tool chest build in the planning stages, I'll get some posts on here and maybe we can revive this awesome thread.

Question for you guys: is 1/2" oak too thin for a tool chest? I notice many using 3/4" pine, but with the added rigidity of oak, should be ok, no? It's gonna be a dutch style on castersI believe, so shouldn't be getting too much stress.


----------



## knockknock

Looking much better Bandit, now I can be nosey and see what tools you have


----------



## SJD312

Coooool


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Joseph, I'd suggest it depends on the overall size of the chest you're building. The panels won't get stressed per se, but the joints will. What joinery is planned for the corners?


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Bandit! I drink so much coffee, I cannot take photos without a tripod! LOL.

I made minor progress on the inside base of my tool chest…added a till for the shoulder plane, and one for the SW45. Here's the shoulder plane till from walnut and spalted poplar…cough…cough…cough…










...just simple rabbets and dadoes since this is headed for the bottom of the chest, but all the work was done with hand tools.

Although…I have stopped this build temporarily. Wife wants my crappy shop renovated for a goat palace now that we suddenly have 13! So, a new shop for me instead of a tool chest. No half-blind DT's, no through tenons…but I can't wait to share photos via blogs!


----------



## Airframer

That pic reminds me that I still need to get a shoulder plane… and finish my tool box. Maybe I will just make a shoulder plane instead of buying one. Anyone have any plans for one of those?


----------



## knockknock

It's a Tool Chest!

Well almost, I still have to put the finish on.


----------



## wormil

Nice. My first thought was how does he close the lid but then I saw the chisel racks and whatnot move inside.


----------



## palaswood

Wow! Knockknock Thats [email protected]$$! Looks like you got plenty of room for all the tools you actually use. Thats the real challenge i'm learning as I plan this tool chest out. Deciding what you need in there and what you don't. I'm figuring that a good rule of thumb is iif I own it, but I haven't used it yet or within a couple months, then I probably don't need it in the tool chest.

@Smitty - I bought a dovetail router jig from MLCS - so I was leaning towards using that for the corner joinery. Would I need at least 5/8ths thickness for that? or can you router dovetail 1/2 inch hardwood? The bit is what comes with the kit, a 14 degree 1/4" bit. Just read the site, seems the pins need 5/8" and the tails can be on 1/2" in stock.

Or should i cut them by hand?


----------



## MrRon

It would seem to me that a tool chest like the Studley, while being a work of art, is also impractical as a working tool chest. That thing must weigh 200 pounds. Of course, the heavier it is, the less likely it will get stolen.


----------



## theoldfart

Mr Ron, that issue has worked over pretty well in past year or two. I use an English style chest and it has not been a hinderance at all. Every thing I use tool wise is in there and by sliding the trays back and forth readily accessible . It is quite heavy. Others prefer wall cabinets and if you look at the shop threads there are some impressive and beautiful set ups. All depends on personal styles and preferences.


----------



## RGtools

On the lighter end of the spectrum, I have recently found the need for a lighter chest for going back and forth to the house with a mobile kit. I am using very thin poplar for the carcase (>1/2") . Here is where I am today.


----------



## theoldfart

Shiplap for the back I assume? also are we looking at the base?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yeah, Ryan, what are we looking at?

I'm thinking those are through-tenons and they look awesome. Wow, so much work already done. What is the plan?


----------



## knockknock

I am waiting to see where this is going also. The through tenons look great.


----------



## johnstoneb

I finished this about a month ago. Now that my hand tools are down next to the bench I use them a lot more.


----------



## RGtools

*Bruce* that is looking awesome. Clean and uncluttered, not like my rat's nest.

I am going for a Japanese style box overall, but I could not bring myself to just use nails even though that would be the traditional way to go (and quicker…what's wrong with me?). The pic is of the bottom being nailed on. The through tenons are the rougher version that I do with the exception of one corner which I did right just to remind myself that I can…with such thin stock and soft wood, blow-out is a real challenge to avoid.

I am using a dovetail nailing pattern for the base to make sure things stay in place long term.


----------



## RGtools

Almost done.




























Pretty tough design despite the thin stock.










The dress shoes are for you Kevin.


----------



## wormil

Looking good RG. What are some advantages of the Japanese style tool box?


----------



## theoldfart

I like 'em both!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nice work, Bruce and Ryan.


----------



## RGtools

*Rick*, I changed too much about the design to really qualify mine as a Japanese tool box (tenons instead of nails, ship-lapped bottom instead of single piece…), but the general theme is from the traditional shokunin tool box.

Here is a more traditional box. (EDIT: which had tenons when I posted it…so perhaps I did not take as many liberties with the design as I thought)









That being said, the two main advantages I saw in the overall design of the Japanese version were light-weight, and ease of build. All the material should be in the 1/2" thick range to keep things light but tough, and any nailing should be done in a dovetail pattern to reinforce the joint.

Other than that there is not much to say. You could easily build one yourself in you own shop in about a day and find out.

No mention of a Japanese tool box would be quite complete without mentioning Mafe's build.

Here is a pic of his:


----------



## AnthonyReed

Great build and wonderful photographs Ryan. Well done man.


----------



## pjped

Ryan, that is awesome, really nice details! -pete


----------



## wormil

A Viking style chest I've been working on that will end up being a small toolbox for the shop. More info about it in my LJ blog or my personal blog.


----------



## RGtools

^very Norse, I like it. What do the characters mean? They don't look quite like Icelandic to me.


----------



## wormil

My initials in Ogham, sometimes called the tree alphabet, and ancient Celtic alphabet.


----------



## kelvancra

RGTOOLS got as close to anyone as mine. To be sure, there are some beautiful tool boxes here, but mine is really more about having several. For example: One for my hand planes, one for my electric planes, one for my scrapers, one for my chisels and associated mallets, one for my sanders, one for my sand belts, one for my sand paper, one for my polishing equipment (i.e., granite polishing, plastic and finish polishing), one for my drills…......

Preferably, the would be group according to use. The chisels, scrapers and planes together, near the jointer and the surface plane and so forth. In short, just put a really big handle on the roof of my shop. Think of it as putting a handle on a VW Beetle to create the ideal women's purse.


----------



## RGtools

^I would love to see some pics *Kelly*. The shop full of boxes, or the shop that is the box definitely qualifies for this post. Love the VW purse analogy.

*Rick* I knew I recognized the characters from somewhere, thanks for the clarification.


----------



## john2005

Bruce, saw that design a few days ago and have started to do drawings with changes (meaning it will be done in a couple years)... I like the idea though.


----------



## Brit

Came across this ebay.co.uk. More like a toolbox for toolboxes, but thought it might be of interest. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-JOINERS-MULTI-FITTED-TOOL-CHEST-SIZE-30-x-18-x-18-/221432596083?pt=UK_Collectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item338e694673


----------



## wormil

Nice nesting of toolboxes. Doesn't look like it could close as it sits but I suppose that rear box fits further inside.


----------



## theoldfart

^ I think the two totes against the lid fit in front of the higher box. Not a big fan of box joints but it does look like a lot of skill went into its making.


----------



## Brit

He says in his ebay write up that he cut them all by hand Kevin. He is making them for sale now. Good luck to him.


----------



## theoldfart

There is no mechanical advantage to box joints, just more glue surface. I don't see the allure of cutting them by hand, seems pointless to me. what ever! :0)


----------



## JGM0658

Now that is my kind of box! you can just pull the box you need without bending and once closed just push it. Seems to me a much better design than the ATC. I don't know about doing the finger joint by hand though, that is taking it a bit too far IMO.


----------



## RGtools

^"By hand" can mean different things to different people. He might have meant that the things were not cut on CNC. That is a pretty cool design though for a more mobile set up.


----------



## theoldfart

BTW good to hear from you Ryan, missed your presence.


----------



## RGtools

^thanks Kevin. I have been a little preoccupied with other stuff as of late. I missed it here too though.


----------



## RGtools




----------



## CL810

Current project, another tool chest. Mahogany.









The carcass is 5/8". Approximate dimensions: 28" long, 15" wide and 14" tall.


----------



## GMatheson

Very nice. Can't wait to see it with some finish.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That thing is filthy nice Andy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That looks crazy-good, Clayton!


----------



## DanKrager

Cl810, that's gonna be too nice to use. Gonna use it in the living room for a coffee table? 
DanK


----------



## donwilwol

Mahogany tool chest. *WOW*


----------



## Buckethead

A masterpiece Clayton.

Been wanting to do that style of chest, but thought it might not work well as under bench storage. Yours is gorgeous!


----------



## CL810

Thanks guys. I wasn't going to post any pics until the job was done (don't like jinxing myself! LOL) But with questions coming up in the workbench thread about thickness, I wanted to comment that 5/8 is plenty of wood for this size chest. Which, coincidently, is about the same size as what Bucket described on the workbench thread.

Bucket, what has been the "big idea" on this chest is learning about mahogany and factoring weight considerations learned from my dutch toolchest build.

Mahogany is lighter than poplar. Don't know why I always thought of it as heavy. 3/4" wood is unnecessary for this size of chest. Knock some more weight off (12.5% to be exact) by going with 5/8 instead of 3/4. Not sure about 1/2" but I would give it some serious thought and see if you can test the idea somehow. Dovetails for rock solid build. I'm telling you this box will take a beating and hold up great.


----------



## RGtools

I agree on the thinned down sides, especially on a more mobile chest, the box I posted before yours has half inch and under components. With the right engineering you can stand on one of those types of chests. So it's good to cut down on weight.


----------



## palaswood

Mahogany is often thought of as a heavy wood in my opinion simply because it's highly revered (my mom's favorite wood and many people's) and its so damn rigid. I have probably 30 board feet of reclaimed mahogany that once stripped and planed flat would yield between 1/2 and 5/8" so I may have to consider that for my tool chest now… which is becoming more and more of a necessity.

What fine work Cl810! What type of mahogany? Santos?


----------



## CL810

That's the $64 question Joseph. I was thinking African but the more I look at it it definitely looks like sapele which is related. I'm not familiar with Santos.


----------



## palaswood

Santos Mahogany is from Central/South America - rated at 2,400 Janka which is much harder than the 900 Janka rated Honduran Mahagony (Honduras being IN Central America) or ~1100 Janka African mahogany

*So after reading up on "mahogany" only the Honduran Mahogany is actually Mahogany:"Swietenia macrophylla".
African Mahogany is Khaya, and Santos is also not related to the genus Swietenia. Very interesting…


----------



## Hammerthumb

I think its African. Santos is much more red, and would weigh about the same as Jatoba. You would have a hard time with those dovetails in Santos Mahogany. By the way, Santos is the name of the port that it comes from in Brazil. Not really a trade name for it.


----------



## Hammerthumb

By the way, beautiful chest Clayton. Quite the toolbox maker!


----------



## palaswood

Yes Hammerthumb, I concur. Santos mahogany reminds me of Ipe with its grain and hardness. 
All that aside, what a gorgeous tool chest


----------



## knockknock

Great looking chest Clayton.


----------



## Brit

Perfection Clayton. I love it.


----------



## nisker

As I came across this thread a lot when looking for inspiration to build my tool chest I thought would share the result with you.


----------



## CL810

Welcome to LJ nisker! Looks well done and carefully designed around your tools. I like it. How do the leather straps stay closed, snaps?


----------



## Buckethead

Great looking tool chest, nisker!

I could look at tools, chests and projects all day long. Some days, I do!


----------



## knockknock

Great tool chest nisker, and I like the orange color.


----------



## nisker

Thanks for the nice comments.

CL810: Only the ones that hold the spokeshave opens, the others a just a static loop. The spokeshave ones have a hole that fits over a brass screwhead in one end and then narrows down to about the screw diameter. Here is a detail shot:


----------



## bandit571

Need to plan a second tool chest, as the first one is FULL!

Need a home for the other half of the handplanes, including the molding ones

Need a home for the growing family of brace & bits

New a home for about a dozen, or more rasps/files, most are over 12" long, some out to 16"

Drawers for screwdrivers

Drawers for squares

Other hand tools need something besides them plastic tool cases

and, it needs to fir UNDER the workbench, so….no lid can be used .

Also have six full length handsaws. Right now, they hang from pegs up in the ceiling joists. And the ends are at forehead height…...(no scars on the head….yet)

Maybe a chest of drawers sort of thing?


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, wonderful chest buddy.


----------



## theoldfart

Bandit, only six?


----------



## palaswood

So im back to the drawing board: guys, if there was a tool you forgot to plan for in your chest build, what was it?

I dont want to forget anything…


----------



## DanKrager

Palaswood, it's not what you forget…it's easy to see what you have by taking an inventory (which you should have for insurance anyway). It's what you don't have now but might get the wants for when things change that will mess up your tool box plans. 
When I've built tool boxes I've built them with minimal customizing and maximum flexibility to accommodate change. Strength and modularity are two big issues for me. 
So, the key to flexibility is indecision.
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Joseph, the biggest trap I have seen is to French fit everything up front. DanK is spot on about future expansion. I builds an English style cabinet makers chest ala Schwarz and wound up changing the saw till and bottom storage. My lower storage is all removable.
I went from this









To this


----------



## palaswood

Thanks Kevin - I've seen your chest and how you added that angled plane til, so effiecient. Thanks Dan - tool inventory, check…. lol

I only have a few planes, and I want a tool chest that will limit what I cram into it, since I am awful about tool organization, and I don't want room for things to get messy in there. But I like the idea of modulation - so I can simply build a huge box and dado in some runners for trays/ removeable sliding drawers/wells.

Probably will at least get me going - Indecision is the father of procrastination.


----------



## bandit571

Started to build a fewstowage pieces:









Thinking adding a pivot so it will rotate up









Like maybe a drill index for bits?

Might have to thin a herd a bit









There MIGHT be a few too many Jack planes?


----------



## RGtools

Joseph. One way to get an idea of what you getting into is this…what is the biggest tool you have to fit in the box? If you make a solution for that, you tend to have enough room in a well proportioned box for the rest. As far as the customization comments are concerned…I agree with them. Don't glue anything in, Nails and screws give you the ability to expand as you go.


----------



## CL810

> So im back to the drawing board: guys, if there was a tool you forgot to plan for in your chest build, what was it?
> 
> I dont want to forget anything…
> 
> - palaswood


I didn't plan for a router plane or a 45. If I had, I would of had to make my chest larger. It's plenty big enough so I have no regrets. I'm in the process of building a second chest and will use that for specialty tools and/or tools that don't get as much use.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, router plane storage


----------



## CL810

When I saw that back when you added it, I tried to make it work in mine but do not have the room. I have no aversion to copying/stealing great ideas!


----------



## theoldfart

Would it work vertically?

BTW, that's why I'm building a second traveling chest. Plan to fill it with wooden planes, already have a nest of Simonds panel saws. Also I'll keep my 405 in there along with it's H&R's.


----------



## CL810

Nope, I've tried it every way possible and it just gets in the way of getting other tools in and out of the chest.


----------



## DanKrager

Cl810, couple o' nails on the front outside…good to go. Prolly room for lots of other stuff there too! You just have to think outside the box….

Like your bit storage, bandit.

DanK


----------



## theoldfart

^ opens up all sorts of opportunities, need more tools!


----------



## CL810

Dan, now that's what I call "thinking outside of the box!" )


----------



## Mosquito

Nice bit storage Bandit. I use a similar technique for all my forstner bits. Just drilled holes deep enough for the bits to sit in on a piece of scrap, set it on the shelf, done


----------



## bandit571

Trying to figure a way to hang a few pull out drawers under the workbench. Under the bench is about the last spare space left down in the Dungeon Shop. Besides, all the extra weight to hold the bench still…...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ A project that includes building those drawers in a cabinet that fits nicely in the 'under workbench' cavity is highly recommended. Fun build, too. YMMV


----------



## jmartel

Make a platform and mount a chest of drawers on it. Lots of storage. I plan on doing that to mine shortly. That's what Red did to his joinery bench.


----------



## RGtools

The drawknife and hatchet are the ones that gave me the most grief. I eventually just made leather wrappings for them and tossed them in the bottom of my chest with the planes.


----------



## palaswood

Recaimed cherry tool chest is well underway

All the wood was salvaged from a local cabinet shop who does a lot of work and wastes a LOT of hardwood.









Only hand tools on this one, at least for now 










I forgot how gorgeous cherry is once you plane it










So far got 3 panels assembled - glue ups to continue this evening. Just stood them up for the pic, not jointed yet.


----------



## CL810

Looking forward to following this Joseph.


----------



## theoldfart

Should be sweet, Joseph. Looks good so far. My Dutch will be pine, believe it or not the build starts Saturday and be done Sunday.


----------



## bandit571

Have stumble onto a few "parts". Since I built the workbench from Dumpster-dived parts, might as well use a few more….Parts

Seems an all metal Loft bed was thrown out.









More about that wood, later









Thinking metal frames to hold the drawers under the bench. Still doing and inventory..

Now, about that wood stuff. A FANCY waterbed frame was thrown out, broken up, too.









Seems these parts are OAK, with a few solid wood raised panels. 4×4 posts are glue ups. One bed rail was solid oak, but the other was a very curving 3/4" plywood. There was also these things









1×12s of pine. Two longs and two shorter ones. Still have a nice stash of Barn Wood Fir in the shop. Hmmm, Single Brain Cell Sketch-up is starting to get warmed up. Plans might show up in there in afew days.

Right now, I still have some demo to do. Just don't think I can use the head or foot board in ONE piece…..


----------



## palaswood

I love it Bandit - once you have a bunch of salvaged wood and parts, puttin together the project is like assembling Legos. And i mean come on, who doesnt love assembling Legos?

I'm still working out the plans in my head for the tool chest, but I've set a simple goal: Build a box for my tools that I use most often. So only the #3, #4C, block plane and spokeshave will make it in there, as well as chisels, handsaws (smaller ones, no full length till in this build), layout tools and what not.

But my rule is, if it's not one of my go-to tools, its not going in there. I have a plastic toolbox crammed full of those extra and shoddy tools, and they can stay there for all I care.


----------



## bandit571

One of the "trays" in my Tool Chest is a Tote style tray. Complete with a carry handle. One can even just load it up with what one needs at the bench for the day. Sized to fit in the chest.


----------



## bandit571

Something like this?









In the chest, and









and under construction…


----------



## CL810

I finished the chest and posted as a project.


----------



## knockknock

Ooh, cherry, steel and mahogany. I feel ashamed that I used pine 

It's great to see some new tool chests being built.


----------



## DanKrager

That is one beautiful chest, Cl810. 
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Glorious build, Clayton!!


----------



## CL810

Thanks guys.


----------



## RGtools

That thing really is a showpiece Clayton, it's nice to have a portable example of your skills.


----------



## theoldfart

I started this Dutch chest this weekend at a workshop with Chris Schwarz at Lie Nielson









I need to breadboard the ends of the lid. The lid is 16×28x3/4" pine. How wide should the breadboard be and how long/deep should the tenon be?


----------



## AnthonyReed

What are you asking me for? You're the one that went to class.


----------



## theoldfart

I thought you knew!


----------



## knockknock

theoldfart, looks good so far.

If you want my amateur SWAG for the sizing using hand tools (I have never found a reference for the definitive sizes):

Breadboard width 2 to 3 inches, what ever looks good and will hold the tenon length.

Tungue / tenon thickness would be around 1/3 the thickness of the top, so what ever matches your plow/groove plane (and matching mortise chisel) around 1/4 inch.

Tenon length is what ever is left sticking out after cutting the tenons from the initial tungue width, and the remaining full length stub tungue width.

The initial tongue width I would guess to be 1 3/4" inch or so, limited by however wide the rabbet plane is that you use to make the tongue (and how wide you want the breadboard end).

The remaining full length stub tungue width, I think ideally would match the thickness of the top, but is limited by the plow or grooving plane you use to make the groove (depth) on the breadboard end, so 3/8 to 3/4 inch.

The width of the tenons, when added up would be more or less 50% of the length of the breadboard (width of the table). So either 4 tenons at around 2 inches, or 3 tenons at around 2 1/2 inches. I would go with 3 tenons at around 2.5 inches.

Not guaranteed to not fall off if you use my numbers


----------



## theoldfart

KnockK, thanks for the guidance. I was able to draw out you narrative and transfer it to my work. Started today
First shavings









Next up ploughing









then mortising 









more posts as i get the next stage done!


----------



## theoldfart

So the drawing









the set up









And grasshopper, always leave a bit of yourself in your work


----------



## CL810

^ You are my hero Kevin. Is there anything you won't try? Woodworking wise I mean. ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, probably not as long it involves hand tools and something new. I've been chickening out on the breadboard thing for a few years, but the lid for the chest warped in less than 24 hours so I had no choice!


----------



## theoldfart

Ok, so i pulled out all sorts of toys









Made my tenon









Transferred the mortis locations and voila









The question I have is hard wood or soft wood dowels? The top is pine.


----------



## CL810

Hard


----------



## knockknock

Wow, did you use a plow plane and jack plane to make the rabbet, then clean up with the shoulder plane?


----------



## theoldfart

KnockKnock, Used the combo with nickers and a 1 1/4" cutter. Since the tenon is 1 1/2" finished roughing it with the jack. final tune up with a 140 skew block and medium shoulder shoulder.

Thanks Andy


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Kevin, very nice work.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Smitty.


----------



## theoldfart

One end of the top is done, drilled and elongated the two end holes









Just need to flush cut the pegs


----------



## theoldfart

Pegs flushed and ends trimmed









nice tight fit









Half way there, doing the other side tomorrow.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice work Kev. I like breadboards….but you already knew that.


----------



## theoldfart

Red, I'm seeing why you like them. The top was bowed a bit till I did the breadboard, now its dead flat and only one end is done!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yessir. I like the aesthetic of them as well.

Like any joinery, the first couple attempts will take longer. Once you get a system down, you'll knock 'em out no problem.


----------



## palaswood

"This thread is gold Jerry! Gold! Can I use that?"


----------



## theoldfart

'Nother good rule, make sure your groove is square otherwise your mortise will be off as well!









Since you use the groove as a guide for the mortise chisel, if its off as a reference point, then everything else will be off.
Had to make a new breadboard end ;-)


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Ahh crud. I've had that happen on mortise and tenon doors.


----------



## theoldfart

cost me about an hour or so, not too bad and a good lesson learned. meh


----------



## Buckethead

I think you actually enjoyed it!

It's one of those instances where the slightest error is magnified exponentially. A 64th error becomes 3/16ths very quickly as it moves outward.


----------



## theoldfart

^ Yup to both! Kinda like the curllies from a plow and bashing a mortise chisel.


----------



## theoldfart

And that does that









Just need to get hardware now and watch Brad's blog on filling the thing


----------



## bandit571

Tool box #2 is still getting planed down. Have the front and back legs ready for joinery, need to make the end legs. Frame and panel like the first one, only this one will be in Oak. At least on the outside, inside? I think I might have some pine sitting around….

Not much to see as of yet, unless you like seeing ankle deep shavings…..


----------



## CL810

Fine work *Kevin*!


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, 'tanks.


----------



## Buckethead

It really is an excellent piece, Kev. You sir, have arrived. I'm still perpetratin'.


----------



## theoldfart

I don't know about arriving, my bench is still just a top on sawhorses. Legs are standing next to it un-fitted, vise screw and criss cross still in boxes. Too many squirrel moments i guess.

BTW thanks for the complement


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That is nice work, Kevin. Very nice indeed.
.
.
.
.
Dream toolbox is may not be, but mine has been getting some consideration of late in form of tool content. Some things going to place true user-capable tools at-the-ready. For instance, moving a tool roll of chisels up from the main compartment to the top tray. Not earth shaking, but a step forward for me. A couple un-fettled spokeshaves come out to make room. Etc etc.


----------



## theoldfart

Thank you Smitty. Right now I'm trying to fit my two draw knives into the lower compartment of my big chest.


----------



## theoldfart

Next up, hardware, paint, and some tool fitting.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Looks sharp. Real sharp indeed!


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Smitty, won't have to bend over to get at this one!


----------



## knockknock

I agree, like the raise panel effect on the front panel.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks KnockK. My first using a skew rabbit.


----------



## donwilwol

nice work Kevin!


----------



## CL810

I like it like that Kevin!


----------



## Airframer

The lid looks to be warped… Start over!

Nice tool box kid ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks to all, and it is NOT warped Eric. Harumph!! Damn now I have to go check it again, thanks a lot doooood.


----------



## Airframer

I'm here to help!

Seriously though.. very nice work!


----------



## RGtools

Smitty, toolbox is a constantly evolving process. Mine seems to change a little bit every day. I would take a picture but my digital camera died . The next one needs to be sand and waterproof.

I have a wall behind my bench….a real wall. FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## palaswood

So i'm finally building a tool chest, and its nothing like I had planned. I ended up using some salvaged white oak veneered plywood and salvaged walnut cut offs which are part sapwood or live edge sections. Doing some hand carved oak pegs for the screw holes. I'm using all reclaimed/salvaged materials on this build. This is gonna go on casters, cause this thing is HUGE.

This is the front bottom corner:









Its on its side here:


----------



## donwilwol

> salvaged white oak veneered plywood and salvaged walnut cut offs which are part sapwood or live edge sections. Doing some hand carved oak pegs for the screw holes.
> 
> - palaswood


holy crap. I can't wait to see that thing. It sounds gorgeous


----------



## knockknock

Oh boy, teaser pics


----------



## bandit571

Well, since tool chest #1 is full to overflowing of toys, er, tools, time to work out a newer box









So far, two of these are done. Starting work on a couple ends later. Oak frames around a Pine Raised panel. Should be big enough this time around for full sized handsaws to reside in the lid. I hope. Oak is recycled from an old bed frame…









The panel were junk, but the rest was…..useable.


----------



## knockknock

Ooh, more teaser pics


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Way back on this thread I talked about my tool storage choice: a french cleat system, and a joinery bench with storage. My vision is complete now with the recent completion of my joinery bench:



Today I spent some more time outfitting the drawer liners and dividers. 









-
Half the battle is deciding where you want things to go. I chose to line many of my drawers with some cheap upholstery leather I had. Some have pointed out that the salt in the leather may cause rust. Hope not. My thought was that I would dampen the leather with oil(wd40) anyway….which I have done.

Guess we'll see if it's an issue. I 'll keep you posted.


----------



## donwilwol

I'd never heard that about leather either until I seen it posted here. I've had knives stored in leather sheaths, pistols in leather holsters and rifles in leather cases for years without any issues. Maybe its the kind of leather? I'm not sure.

Nice organization.


----------



## bluekingfisher

I completed my wall tool cab a few weeks back, just wish I had more wall space to build a bigger one. I need more space for my hand planes.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101469


----------



## DanKrager

The leather on metal discussion was somewhere on this site, but many sleeps have happened and I don't remember where.
There are at least two major methods used to tan leather, one using an acid based material and one using a vegetable based material. The former leaves a residue that is acidic and can cause tools to rust. I lost a good knife to storing it in a sheath made of acid tanned leather. The vegetable tanned leather won't rust tools of its own accord. 
No doubt there are those who understand the technical detail of the tanning process better than I, so I will go be quiet now.
DanK


----------



## wormil

The brass on my custom knife corroded inside it's leather sheath, luckily I was able to remove the corrosion.


----------



## WhoMe

Holy crap bluekingfisher, that is awesome and the amount of tools you fit into that cabinet is mind boggling. 
I do like how you organized things and the hinged panels in the doors and the cabinet are great, that is something I am planning to do whenever I get to my wall tool cabinet. I'm gonna have to steal some of your ideas. especially the swing out on the right side of the cabinet that is not full height to clear some of the hand planes.
I'm also jealous of all the tools you have but that is just me.

Really nicely finished too and thanks for including overall dimensions and materials used.

And I am thinking along the same lines of oldfart. But I think you hve some of the Studley genes in you…..


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Interesting, from the Lie Nielsen website:

11. Does storing a tool long-term in a leather case promote rust?
I do not think it is a good idea to store any metal object in a leather case for long periods without taking precautions- such as applying a thick coat of oil and wrapping in cloth, treated cloth, etc. Short term storage should not be a problem unless you live in a very humid area.


----------



## Mosquito

I've read that on their site too, which is odd because they also sell leather cases for all their saws…


----------



## WhoMe

I guess the key words are "long periods" 
Maybe they assume that the users of their tools don't buy them and store them. But they add that wording for releasing them from the liability of rust from the leather.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I've been looking for one of these at a decent price for quite awhile. The wait is over! My toolchest is on the smallish side; a standard framing square simply does not fit in a way that keeps it accessible.

Picture 'in situ' later!


----------



## bandit571

work in progress









tool box #2. might even get to make storage in the lid for a couple saws….


----------



## racerglen

Ah that's sweet Smitty, saw Bob K had a set for sale a while back, but yeesh…the $$ ?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I think the deal was fair. Bought it on the 'bay with a last three seconds bid of $41.25. The cloth in the picture is some kind of hand stitched scabbard, near as I can tell. Cool item, a "T.D. 101", which stands for Take Down. Made by Standard.


----------



## DanKrager

Smitty, that is a find. In all my days, I've never seen nor heard of such a thing. The closest I've seen is the folding ones. I like the way it breaks down into two rulers, but makes a standard carpenter's square when together. Pretty accurate?
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Exactly accurate, Dan. There are several designs for the jointing, this one is excellent with a dovetailed tab / insert and slotted bolt that isn't all mucked up.


----------



## racerglen

Smitty, Bob's was a Stanley..that might explain the $$ ?


----------



## Scott737

Hi everyone…
Haven't quite gotten to the actual "tool box" look yet but curious about its contents. I am putting together a list of things I need to have as a beginner woodworker. Some of these I already have but need to add to the collection. I saw this on another forum and wanted opinions if it was good or not. Obviously, it is not all inclusive but I hope it would be a good starting point to begin a collection. Thanks for the input!

claw hammer
ball pein hammer
tack hammer
wood mallet 
rubber mallet

3 pc. set of nail sets

Bevel edge wood chisels
1/4 inch
1/2 inch
3/4 inch
1 inch
add 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 when you can

1/4 inch mortise chisel and add 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch as soon as possible

hand crosscut saw
hand rip saw
14 inch back saw
10 - 12 inch dovetail saw
keyhole saw
coping saw

brace
egg beater drill
drill bits - 1/16 - 3/8 by 16ths to start and add to when you can
auger bits - 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1 to start and then add to when you can

6 inch try square
9 inch try square
combination square
sliding t bevel - can possibly make
combination mortise and marking guage - can possibly make
marking knife - can possibly make
rafter square
plumb bob

scratch awl - can possibly make
6 inch steel rule
12 inch steel rule
18 inch steel rule
compass - can possibly make
protractor
depth guage - can possibly make - use rules
6 ft extension rule
12 ft tape measure
One or two wood levels would be nice - maybe 24 to 48 inch range.

Several straight edges wood be handy to have; you can start out with the steel rules.

pocket knife
utility knife
putty scrapers

block plane
smoothing plane #3 or #4
jack plane #5 #6 plane
cabinet scrapers
add some cabinet shoulder planes when you can

draw knife - add a curved draw knife when you can
flat spokeshave
convex spokeshave

choice of sharpening tools:
water stones, arkansas stones, etc.
leather strop

9 in half round bastard file
12 inch half round bastard file
several mill files
file card

Files are useful so add to these when you can. If you want to do this right you will need to have the files that you need to sharpen your saws. You can make a saw vice that works with your cabinet vice. You will also need a saw set. You can start out by paying someone to sharpen them when needed.

1 set screwdrivers
1 set combination wrenches
1 set allen wrenches
1 pr pliers
1 pr vise grips


----------



## jmartel

If you want to be a mostly hand tool only guy, then that looks decent, but you don't need that much to get started.

I have no idea what you would need combination wrenches, allen wrenches, pliers, or vise grips for for woodworking. The only time I've ever pulled out an allen wrench was for tightening a set screw on the tablesaw.

Figure out what you want to make first, and then see what tools will be required. It will help us if you post up what you want your first project to be.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Not sure the following are required (my .02):

ball pein hammer
tack hammer

keyhole saw
-i have several, needed one once

6 inch try square
9 inch try square
-get a 6" and 12" combo and be done

6 inch steel rule
12 inch steel rule
18 inch steel rule
-use straight steel from combos if you must, but see no need otherwise.

depth guage - can possibly make - use rules
-yes, use square

One or two wood levels would be nice - maybe 24 to 48 inch range.
-not fitting a 48" level in a normal chest

Several straight edges wood be handy to have; you can start out with the steel rules.
-make a pair of winding sticks, done

add some cabinet shoulder planes when you can
-you'll want a shoulder and router plane quickly, a plow soon after
-add dividers (assorted sizes)
-add a 4-in-1 rasp

1 set screwdrivers
1 set combination wrenches
1 set allen wrenches
1 pr pliers
1 pr vise grips
-pliers, yes. The rest, not w/w tools


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I think my dream toolbox…










Needs a the addition of a couple of brackets in the main storage area for the Standard T.D.101…










EDIT: You know the chest is getting rather full when the addition of some flat steel requires it's own post. lawl


----------



## bandit571

So, when one is full, time to build a second one









outside of the box is about done, lid has some saws stuck to it









Need a chain to hold the lid open









Haven't had to buy any lumber for this box, so far. All was salvaged from a bed frame that was trashed









Need to start making some trays for the inside….


----------



## bandit571

First floor is rented out, so planes, braces and bits found a new home









and again









and one more









Added a rail along the back off the lid









so I can do without a prop behind the chest









Battery died on the Makita, so the trays will have to wait awhile.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well the handworks event is coming back to Amana IA next May. I live to close to miss something like that. 
http://handworks.co/

Anyway, they are offering folks a chance to have an in depth look at the Mona Lisa of tool chests and benches- the Studley (pic in OP). Tickets are $25, which I'm told is to cover the expense of insuring and transporting something so valuable. 
http://studleytoolchest.com/

Anyway, is anybody else thinking of going?
Should I be jumping all over this chance?


----------



## carguy460

Red - If I wasn't moving 1000 miles south, I'd definitely pay the $25 to see that!


----------



## walden

Red - If I were in your shoes, I would go.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Red, yes, you should go. I will not, too far for too little based on my experience at Handworks last year…


----------



## CampD

Smitty, I love that square!
Tell me more?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I think I'm gonna snag a ticket or two. Probably won't get the chance again. It's a ways off, but give me a shout if anyone else is going.


----------



## handsawgeek

I have always been fascinated with the Studley tool chest - the way it is so artistically made, is carefully laid out with ingenious use of space, and is just plain beautiful to behold.

In light of that, I can't help thinking that such a chest would be rather inconvenient to use in the sense that one would have to constantly be swinging sections of tools aside to be able to access others, then twist turnbuckles and holders to get those tools out as well. I prefer having tools ready to grab right off the rack or shelf and go. Obviously, this wasn't an issue for Mr. Studley, as I understand he did phenominal work on his piano construction.


----------



## bandit571

PIP of a pile of old bed frame boards









Might be getting close to the end line









Starting to get filled up, even before the final coat is on


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nice build, Bandit!


----------



## donwilwol

you don't see many tool chest with legs. That's a cool idea. You don't need to bend over so far.


----------



## chrisstef

Dont sleep on el bandito! Looks great.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Looking for suggestions on how best to place a larger panel gauge in a tool chest and avoid damaging it…










Thought about taking it apart and making a cloth scabbard for it. Then there's building a sidewall 'rack' or holder for it, but that'd take considerable space. If it's inside, I'll use it, but banging around inside is a no-go.


----------



## theoldfart

I disassemble mine and it has a place in my top till with all the other measuring and marking stuff. Pics after lunch


----------



## palaswood

+1 disassemble and a leather sheath - like a coat of leather armor


----------



## theoldfart

pics









Really doesn't get knocked around


----------



## bandit571

Make a couple keepers, and fasten the keepers to the underside of the lid. Like right between a couple hand saws









Yep, right between them.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Not bad approaches, either one. My sliders are quite shallow, but I'll check that out. Thought about the lid, it's also possible but if the sliders aren't just right, the gauge would definitely get smacked. Maybe in the vertical saw till via a couple keepers. That'd be very safe, if there's room.

Pics tonight, I hope.


----------



## theoldfart

Looking forward to your solution Smitty, something new to steal!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Too big for saw till:










No room down there.










But taken apart, the third slider held it.










Three sliders to see.










Full view of top two.










Small chest, but workable. About 31" wide is it…


----------



## theoldfart

^ Seems to be a workable solution Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm thinking hard about building a removable tote for the front of the chest. The shallow sliders seem to cramp my style, not because things are underneath other things (that's a positive over really deep tills) but because all has to stay so flat in order for the tills to work.

I want chisels upright, for example, along with a few drivers and dividers and marking gauges. Panel saw, marking knife, etc. The quick and dirty access to stuff, like what's on the top of a dutch chest… Just don't like that essentially 1/4th of the chest's volume does nothing. A pull-out seems like a good idea, might have to try it.


----------



## bandit571

Maybe a box on the chest's side









Like this one I use for a few bits.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Exactly like that, only in a tote. I have no side walls to use / mount that aren't taken for the vertical saw till, or for sliders, or have backsaws against.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, so far I'm content with the two shallow sliders. It's the deeper bottom slider that drives me nuts. I have five braces, six drills, and all the other accouterment that goes with drilling


----------



## bandit571

Make a tote?









Size it to fit between the sliders and the front of the chest.









Maybe?


----------



## CreekOne

Well to answer Ryan's questions:

How do you store your tools?
On the walls and in a small box.

What do you make your toolbox out of?
I would make my box out of Pine or a similar type of wood.

What do you think is worth putting in your toolbox?
Everything one can need on a field trip!

And perhaps most importantly…why?
*I put the tools on the wall so I can reach them without having to open anything or move trays around.
*I would make the toolbox out of Pine due to the price and if a woodworker will see the box they will appreciate the fine quality that I use and probably it will have some veneers in parquetry made from the same wood.
*As I would only have a toolbox/chest/cabinet if I had to bring the tools with me or had to lock them up I would put all the tools in it. My 20 saws, 48 planes, 3 hammers, 20 saw files, 3 sets of chisels, etc..

Maybe I should build me a toolbox… I have some old ones that I keep scraps in Square Japanese style, my toolbox would need to have wheels and maybe a planing board on the inside of the lid…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hello, CreekOne.

I like the idea of a nice interior for sure, outside is a total 'meh' to me. Still don't have a lock on mine, but the shop is already locked. Want it bad enough, they'll take the whole thing or just bust the wood open to see what's inside.

^ That's exactly it, Bandit. Just as you've done.


----------



## donwilwol

http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/36571


----------



## theoldfart

my current "tote"









I'm trying to work something out in my head similar to Bandits, but I want it to maybe hang on the outside of the chest when the chest is open. I may make two so they can hang on the side of the chest rather than one big one for the front.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

A hearty 'Second!' to the idea of it hanging when open!

EDIT: And yes to Don's example, too!


----------



## Airframer

I need to get back to work on my tool cabinet build. I have been tempted more than once to forgo it and build a chest but every time I see the inside of a chest my OCD kicks in and I simply can't get over the haphazard spillage of tools in them. How do you guys get past the unorganized organization of your chest tills? It would drive me crazier than I already am lol.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I guess because the process is on-going for me, can't say I'm past it just yet. The drawers under the Roubo are the bee's knees for me; they're organized and positively roomy compared to chest tills. But I'm not giving up on the chest yet, only because it's a hobby and 'chesting' is something I can pursue when there's no time for a major build of any kind.


----------



## theoldfart

Outside of the till I just mentioned, there is nothing haphazard about my chest. I can pull most tools with a minimum of motion. The most used planes and the like can be pulled without even moving the tills.


----------



## bandit571

Trying something different with the new tool chest. Begins with a divider









May get a tote to set in this area? On the other side of the divider









First of two sliders is installed. Both can travel all the way to the front, afterall, I might need a block plane from time to time









Even some sort of BROWN one









Smitty's Cordovan? Nope…MINE


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ah, Cordovan. I agree, it's a good tool to reach for!

Interested to see how that divider plan comes together.


----------



## palaswood

Bandit how many tool chest builds is that this year!?

Yes a tote seems only logical - funny I've never seen this mentioned before, yet it always seemed sort of common sense. 
Better to work out of a tote than to litter the benchtop with tools, as I can seem to do within 90 seconds of starting work on a project.

Its proved very difficult to finish my chest since my shop time, generous as it is being that im single, I work 15 mins from home (9-5) and I have no kids/pets  is being split between the Toolchest, Workbench, Swap Saw, Box Swap and various projects in the works. I suppose if I can do 30 mins a day, i'll get done sooner than later.

Eric, OCD? Aha… Makes sense now.  I guess thats a boon for a woodworker. I think I need to be a little MORE OCD when it comes to planning and layout.

...in fact, what the heck am I doing writing forum posts, i need to get my butt in the shop


----------



## bandit571

Out grew the first one, so, now a second one. Both of which were recycled lumber.

The second one was built at about an hour or three at a time. No rush, I guess…..


----------



## theoldfart

The top edge needs to be beveled so seemed like a good place to use the fence. Took the angle using a bevel gauge transferred it to the fence and went to town!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, that's a neat trick!


----------



## CL810

^ +1 !


----------



## knockknock

^^ + 2


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks fellas, BTW the plane was a jack.


----------



## theoldfart

Ok, hinges on and one handle


















Time for a beer


----------



## DanKrager

TOF, that looks like it would be worth at least one beer…maybe by one beer you meant a keg?
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Dan, my days of doing damage to anything the size of a keg are past. My speed is a pint or two!


----------



## theoldfart

All most done, big guy / little guy pic


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Opened the chest tonight and added a #15 DE auger bit to the roll. Added a chunk of beeswax last night, and the panel gauge a couple of evenings before that. It's about full and (perhaps) essentially complete. Not sure how to test that theory, but I'll think of something.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, that chest just continues to inspire me. In fact I'm thinking about putting a finish on mine…..... Someday! The new Dutch is going to get blue milk paint.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Do it, Kevin. You won't regret it. Bwah-ha-ha!!!!


----------



## DanKrager

Smitty, here's the acid test. Take the chest to your next "out of shop" fix'er upper. Tally how many times you have to return to the home shop to pick up something you need. After a couple of those trials, you'll settle things out. Well, until the next one comes along. It's a continuous process because things change. It would happen if that box was a semi trailer van!
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dan, you are not far off.

I have to do some 'home improvement' work in our dining room and parlor, and it makes sense to bring the chest over to the house and give it a go, just as you describe. Thought about it yesterday and today, and already decided it's missing a chalk box (I'm making a particular kind of wainscoting that needs straight lines across a wall, you see…).

The first of many, also as you've pointed out.

We'll see, looking forward to it!


----------



## theoldfart

You just gonna role that thing outa the shop and into the house?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Gonna get #2 Son to help me roll and carry it into the house, me thinkst.


----------



## theoldfart

Mine would have to come up from the cellar so that will happen if we move or I take a dirt nap.


----------



## donwilwol

Its not about having all the right tools. Its about having enough of the right tools to keep the job going until tomorrow. Its about knowing more than one way to skin the cat.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ he said, thus tying in nicely with another LJ thread discussing 'preparedness'...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

And, the story is told that my great grandad was a carpenter / tradesman back in the day (1915-1930) and literally walked a wheelbarrow with tools around his small town to find work. Walked repeatedly to another town, each day, that was 12 miles or so to the north for work.

No going back for missed tools, it's exactly the situation Don described: keep things going until tomorrow.


----------



## donwilwol

I guess part of it is I started on my own very young. I don't know why. I had no outside influence. When you are 12 your dad don't care if you take the hand saw, but the power tools are off limits. When you start there you understand the difference. When you start with power tools you just assume they are always faster


----------



## theoldfart

One final touch on the Dutch chest before painting. I was concerned about the lid leaning back too far and i didn't want a chain on the side so a stop on the back would do the trick. Same process as before took the angle I wanted









Transferred it to my fence and shot the bevel









Slotted it for the hinge leaves









And Voila


----------



## CL810

^ Wizard.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Andy, getting worried I'm over engineering this thing. Wizardry is so much better


----------



## Airframer

OK, it has been decided…. I am going to start over and build a chest. I was out today after going to a VA appointment and happened into a salvage builders supply shop. I had no idea this place existed but it has a ton of rust to hunt through along with old timbers and stuff.

Under a pile of crap was an old chest. It was pretty beat up and out of my price range but gave me some idea of size and utility of a tool chest. I need a home for my tools and a chest is a good start. If I don't like it I can always still build a cabinet.

I hope to go back to that place and dig through it a bit more thoroughly but today was a quick once over. Smitty would have been on heaven though.. that I can say for sure ;-)

Now with that said. What are the most common dimensions for a tool chest? Any free plans available etc etc?


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, get Schwartz's Anarchists Tool Chest book. I used the magazine article to build mine, the book has a lot more info. Also Carters Whittling has an outstanding blog on his build

Edit, also check out Ryan's build


----------



## bandit571

You could follow a blog series I have about Tool Chest #2

Spent some time tonight in the Dungeon Shop. Needed some 1/2" thick strips for runners. No electric planer in the shop….so a few hand planes got them down close. Runners for the upper slider are in place. Cut and fitted a few boards for a tote. Scrollsaw to make a handle to tote the tote with. Finger holes were Forstner bit drilled out. Pilot holes have been drilled, then…

Suppertime! Guess who had to play Chef?


----------



## Airframer

OK, just bought a digital copy of the Anarchists Tool Chest book. I'll paruse that tonight and start planning this weekend I hope. Thanks Kevin.


----------



## bandit571

For those that want to build a tote for inside the chest









The hardest part is making a handle for it









And hope the Forstner bit isn't dull like mine was. Scrollsaw to cut the profile. Wound up with the top of the handle a hair to high in the chest. Handle plane away the excess. Joinery is very simple









Just counter sunk screws. For something that will get banged around alot.









I almost skinnied down some wood for a second rail for the top sliders









No power planer in the shop to get 3/4 down to 1/2" thick. But, I do have a few non-corded ones









Just an evening in the shop…


----------



## palaswood

i dont know what Id do without my cordless planes haha - cool tote. i threw one together out of plywood and nails yesterday and I gotta say, sometimes just ploppin a board against a board and drivin a nail through just feels good


----------



## DanKrager

P'wood, I hope you used BFNs. There's just something extra satisfying about driving those home with a BFH.

Explanation: I was mentored by a Norwegian woodworker (from the old country) and he poked the Swedes now and again in a good hearted manner. A wood screw was referred to as a Swedish nail or a Big Fancy Nail. LOL. Brings back good memories.

DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, my BFN's on the chest were cut nails. Once in they don't come out!


----------



## theoldfart

I like how this came out



























Next up paint and perusing Brads posts on Dutch interiors


----------



## CL810

I like it as well. Good job Kev!


----------



## knockknock

Yes, an excellent job Kevin. I like how you lid stands almost straight up.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nice job indeed.


----------



## donwilwol

very nice job indeed Kevin!!


----------



## theoldfart

Thank you. Hopefully the lid will stay up after the saws and stuff are on it.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Props Kev. I love the look of those chests.


----------



## theoldfart

Red, thanks. I pretty much have all the tools to fill it as well already. Planes are all woodies, MF & GP drills, my 405 and so on. Back saws are a Biggins and maybe a Wally plate on a Groves tote, a Diston dovetail and 2 Diston 20" panels. Hopefully I'll still be able to pick it up!


----------



## theoldfart

After watching Smitty find a place for his rafter square, I felt a compelling need to do the same. So here it is









Slotted the side with a Japanese pull saw









Doesn't interfere with the saw till









I'm happy!


----------



## knockknock

Glad your happy!

P.S. It took me a while to figure out that is your other tool chest


----------



## theoldfart

Probably should have mentioned that!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That is a great solution, definitely what I would have done if the chest were big enough. As it is, mine's tucked into the vertical saw til. Good stuff, Kevin.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Smitty


----------



## theoldfart

One more, ok maybe two, more times









a place for the breadboard saw


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This is where the take-down lives:










It works for now. Maybe something permanent on the back wall someday.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty I would really like to find one of those. Starting to troll for one of those Gems, do you use it much?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Haven't yet, but plan to whenever I need a large square (admittedly not often as present).


----------



## theoldfart

I meant the folding mitre box


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hah! Yeah, I've used it at the bench a few times.


----------



## theoldfart

I'm seeing then for $25-30 on the 'Bay. Hope to find one at the flea market.


----------



## bandit571

Had a few long, skinny chisels, and a long screwdriver to stash somewhere









Didn't feel like just tossing them into the tote. The wider ones already had a home, of sorts









So, I had a small area I could use, and a scrap of pine. Had some oak, but that doesn't play nice with anything made from iron. Needed to still get to the drill bits below, too. Oh, and clearence when I close the lid.









Might just do. Have also been planing down some scraps, as I still need to make a few sliders for the right-hand side of the chest.









All this construction work going on overhead, makes a mess of this in the "basement"









But we are slowly getting there…...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Good stuff, Bandit. Keep plugging away!


----------



## bandit571

Well, the last ( I hope) of the trays is installed, so time for a tour?

Walk down the steps to the Dungeon Shop ( Igor has even been sweeping things) and find a box sitting behind the bench









Just an old chest? Well, lift the lid









Ah, saws IN the lid. Looks like some trays for tools, too









The left side has a tote for a tray. Pick it up and carry to the work site. On the right, there is a new tray









Just the right size to store a Wards#78 and a few extras. It will slide to the rear to allow access to the lower realms









The front wall of which has a hook, to hold three coping saws









That way I can still grab a brace as needed. That middle tray? it is just the right size for these to lay in









Have no idea how much this whole contraption weighs, don't have a scale that big….

Hope you enjoyed the tour.


----------



## theoldfart

Bandit, chock full o' goodies. Look forward to hearing how you like working out of it. Great job.


----------



## knockknock

Well done Bandit, with a nice collection of tools. I can't believe I can see the floor in your shop


----------



## racerglen

Very nice Bandit, should serve well !


----------



## CL810

Dropped a small Bluetooth speaker into my toolbbox so I could listen to Pandora in the shop. Now it does double duty as a boom-box.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, need to cut 18" diameter holes in the sides for sub woofers. Make your ears bleed!


----------



## CL810

.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Hehe. Good stuff Andy. Those little bluetooth buggers are nice.


----------



## knockknock

I wonder if the magnet in an 18" woofer is strong enough to suck up planes?


----------



## theoldfart

I think they will help levitate the chest for easy moving!


----------



## terryR

Well, I apologize for dropping out of this thread a few months ago, but I'm back to share and learn! 

Besides, my 20×20x40" carcass is in the way no matter where it goes in the shop. Saws piled on top, filled with cleaning cloths or cob webs, the false floor which I french fit 13 planes into is just taking up my table saw…Time to complete the build!

And FWIW, Yes I already regret the french fitting…but it's done and I'm moving forward with it…

Photos and beginner joinery coming up…

Oh yeah…if anyone knows a good online article to explain the SPACING of dovetails during layout, I could sure use the tips. My practice DT's are too close together or something? Same size as the pins? not sexy.


----------



## jmartel

I don't know if there's any sort of guideline for tail sizing, but the ones I see usually look about 3x the width of the pins?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Bring it, Terry! And I can't help with D/T sizing guidelines either.


----------



## bandit571

Softwood takes LARGER dovetails. And they are equeal in size. Hardwoods, you can space them out a bit, like thrice the pins. Pin+ 1+1+1+Pin or something like that.


----------



## mochoa

This is a beautiful thread to catch up on. Everyone in a while I just scroll through all my missed posts. looking at everyone treasure boxes is fun!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, beware the french fit :-( As far as dovetail spacing and size, it's all personal preference. Try using two sets of dividers on paper to see what suits you. BTW the slope convention on hard wood vs softwood has the same merit as tails first vs pins.


----------



## KevinL

Being a toolmaker by trade I have always loved the Gerstner toolboxes and would love to build my clone someday. That being said, I have my Starrett tool display that I have hanging in my shop at home. It's my tool porn. You can see it in my profile picture.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for any tips, guys! I found an article in The Essential Woodworker that touches on DT spacing. But my practice from yesterday looked the same. Gonna make some hardboard templates, and try 2sets of dividers the next time.

Was hoping to avoid arithmetic! 

Yeah, TOF, my french fitting was all done on a false floor, so I could just toss it, and start over. Nah…too much time invested!!! LOL!

...this should be good for a few laughs this weekend…










Edit…at least, I wiped off the cob webs for the photo!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, cobwebs or not, it looks good to me. No woodworking for me for the next few months so I live vicariously through you guys.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry, here's a divider method I like….


----------



## bandit571

I have a project almost completed (Screen Door) and now the fun begins….

Putting all them toys, er….TOOLS back in their spots in two tool chests

Maybe then, I can find my workbench????


----------



## Mosquito

I use the divider method that Red posted when I do dovetails too


----------



## donwilwol

I use the "eye ball it, start in the middle and hope for the best" dovetail method usually.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> I use the divider method that Red posted when I do dovetails too
> 
> - Mosquito


Ya, I either do that, or I measure from the outside with a square on each side….which leaves a larger tail in the center. I like that look. Either way, once I find what I like, I use a scrap as a story stick for each of the other drawers or sides.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Eyeball here, too. It's all good.


----------



## knockknock

> ... I measure from the outside with a square on each side….which leaves a larger tail in the center….
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


That is what I do a lot.


----------



## terryR

Yeah, I agree, it's all good…'cept for those routahs that make DT's. Oh, Grizzly's having a sale? LOL!

Thanks, Red, will try calipers, then just gonna eyeball it. I think I can guess at something visually pleasing before I try adding 1/8"+1 1/16 five times, or something like that. Or go back to rabbets!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Progress, Terry?


----------



## terryR

Yes, minor progress today!

One hinge morticed into the lid, one lid attached to the base (via 3 hinges), and one dust skirt added to the lid. Just butt joints on the skirt…3 coats of paint coming. And, yeah, the reveal on the lid is sorta smiley face shaped since the lid warped a bit on me the last few months. I took some of it out with the dust skirt, but not enough. Hopefully the paint will also hide that! 










Sorry for the mess in the corner, but that's the messy corner near the door where stuff gets piled before burning!

As a brief review since I started this mess last year…carcase is 3/4" birch ply joined with rabbets and screws. Lid is also birch ply. Upper and lower skirts are red oak joined with butt joints, but chamfered by hand plane. 

IF the wood filler dries tonight…we be painting tomorrow!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ great update, fine progress!


----------



## CL810

^+1. What's up with that mess in the corner??? :-0


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I'm seeing a funky saw-tooth edge on the upper lid dust seal. Is it from an less than stellar pic or a weird edge?

I am confused( says the guy drinking a scotch ale)


----------



## CL810

Low-res graphics says the guy drinking wine.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I heart you guys…..says the guy with a belly full of hot wings and bud light.


----------



## theoldfart

Oh all right then, cheers!


----------



## CL810

Retired f'ers….gotta luv 'em.


----------



## theoldfart

^ I am feeling the luv Andy!

Terry, what color? When I get back I'm going to do a marigold yellow base with a black top coat then scuff up the edges .


----------



## terryR

Yeah, the fuzzy edge is from the iPad photo being re-sized to fit on Photobucket…or maybe the Scotch from last night! LOL!

Dang, TOF, guess I'm copying your color scheme. Was hoping to surprise everyone with the sick yellow paint job…color is called Sun Ray, but looks like dirty corvette yellow. I saw Carters paint his chest this way, and it came out schweet!!!

Looks like I need to search all of your tool chests to see how I open this heavy-assed lid! Didn't think of that till last night…and where do you guys get chains or lid stays? Lee Valley's chains look wimpy…I like this one, though…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, sash chain from a hardware store.
The paint scheme is from Carters chest


----------



## bandit571

Projects are done for a bit, time to put things away









Still have room for a few more items. The other end









Finding out that IF I leave the top slider forward, I can park a few things behind it. Maybe build another tray?

Underside of the lid got a better D-8









And the top of the lid now has a Warranted Superior medallion, with an Eagle, no less









Might go back and fill in around the outside, after the CA sets fully.

Maintainence is on-going for some plane irons, too.









That Millers Falls #14 might be getting close to sharp enough…


----------



## knockknock

Bandit, I like the medallion on the tool chest.


----------



## terryR

+1to the Eagle Medallion…nice.

Looks like Bandit's lid stays open with black magic…might try the same…

...yellow paint today!


----------



## bandit571

Bandit's lid stay up by leaning against the work bench behind it, and a Stop along the back wall of the chest.

Almost put a Diamond Edge medallion on, instead, but I liked the eagle one better. Maybe use the DE one on the walnut Tool Chest, eh?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This kind of add-on, to the back of the chest, holds the lid on my toolchest too (like Bandit's):


----------



## rantingrich

OH OH TOOL box I am sorry I misunderstood…


----------



## terryR

Goodness gracious, can I add a pair of THOSE to my tool chest? It might slow work flow every now and again? 

The cleat on the back…gotta have…Thanks!


----------



## theoldfart

Back lid stop on my Dutch chest


















I may put one on my English as well, right now I use sash chain


----------



## ToddJB

Have you guys seen this?

If Studley and Tim Burton had a baby and that baby grew up and made a tool chest, it would be this:

http://rainfordrestorations.wordpress.com/2014/09/25/studley-inspired-tool-cabinets/

Teaser below, but there are tons of pics on the site.


----------



## ToddJB

.


----------



## theoldfart

Steampunk tool chest maybe?


----------



## Airframer

that..Is.. AWESOME!!!!! Scratching any and all toolbox plans and reading more about that one.. I..Must..Build..That!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Lots of talk about those on the Old Tools list. They're not authentic, not functional. Almost being passed off as those things because he 'let's people think what they want.'


----------



## donwilwol

As much as I'm attracted to shiny , I'm not impressed.


----------



## ToddJB

Might not be old, might not be functional. But it does not take away that it looks cool and took a lot of talent to make, IMO


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Not quite Studley level, but still pretty cool. Thanks for sharing Todd.


----------



## ToddJB

I thought we weren't talking


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I found it in my heart to forgive you. Now get back to work on the imaginary saw till we haven't seen pics of yet.

I already wish I had made my till a little bigger. I'll just cram them closer together.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oh, they are cool to look at. Much to see, trying to make sense of the parts is fun.

Glad you two have made up.


----------



## ToddJB

Frames tacked, Rojo. Need to get to the innards.


----------



## terryR

Heck, I bet Brother Red stops talking to me after this photo…










Kinda sick, huh? Hopefully the 2nd coat of yellow will hide a few brush marks, then the top coat of black will make me look like a pro woodworker! LOL!


----------



## Brit

I'm curious Terry. Are you painting it black on yellow because you intend to distress it so the yellow shows through the black or are you just using up some leftover yellow paint.


----------



## terryR

Planning to distress it, Andy. Saw Carters' tool chest, and loved the color scheme.

Kinda sick for now…


----------



## theoldfart

I dun know Terry, I can tell I'm going to have to rush the yellow phase.


----------



## terryR

Yeah, told the girl at the paint store I wanted a "sick color of yellow", so she gets all the blame! Or credit. LOL.

Kevin, cannot rush paint drying…just don't take photos…


----------



## GMatheson

You should just leave it that color Terry. Look at all the lighting cost you will save with a glow in the dark box.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

+1 to what Greg says.


----------



## terryR

^ LOL!
Maybe a coat of rusteoleum glossy bronze?


----------



## donwilwol

just do some rusteoleum glossy bronze for the trim


----------



## DanKrager

Rustoleum glossy bronze STENCILS! 
DanK


----------



## knockknock

Paint the trim orange.


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm, Black & Yellow…....Dewalt Tool Box?

Maybe step it up a notch? Trim it in John Deere Green?


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I have a pic of a chest at Liberty Tool with the owners name on it. I'll post it a little latter.


----------



## realcowtown_eric

I'm thinkin that the joints on that garrish yellow toolbox must be totally concealed dovetails…aka as "chickentails"

I can see voodoo queens dancing around it.

But that's just me.

Eric


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, this is what I plan on doing to my English chest









The chest was at Liberty Tools in Maine


----------



## DanKrager

I don't get it, Kevin. Why would you put Abner P. Childs on your chest? Either one for that matter… 
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

I don't know, just seems more 19'th centuryish.


----------



## knockknock

How about: Abner L. Yokum


----------



## theoldfart

I was thinking possibly of Ish Kabiible !


----------



## racerglen

Kevin I vote for "Aged Flatus" but in ye olde script..

;-)


----------



## terryR

^Aged Flatus in script would be cool…on the back maybe! 

I've thought of adding my name…would probably take it to my best friend who is an artist, sign painter, does pin striping…

Bad news…the 2nd coat of yellow paint didn't improve the looks! LOL!
...still practicing dovetails for the inside…almost there!!!


----------



## bobro

You guys are an inspiration.

I need to build a bunch of tool storage asap, and I'm thinking, the exclusive trademark on the Mudflap Girl expired in 2011…


----------



## terryR

Random tool chest building shot…










Nope, no tool chest in sight, huh? 

But the 2nd coat of yellow on the carcase looks great! Dried to a nice racing color…just needs black stripes and a number. Oh, maybe wheels.

Decided to go with cherry for the interior since I have a mess of rough-cut from the sawmill laying on the floor of the shop, in the way! Above, I've started to cross cut the cherry to short lengths, and flatten it for small tills which will hold specialty planes in the base of the chest. plow, skewed rabbet, shoulder, router…

And I should have enough stock for the 3 large tills as well. Hoping the cherry looks sharp with the black exterior that's coming soon!

Progress seems slow, but I have Irons Disease…the term my Mom uses for keeping too many irons in the fire at once!


----------



## theoldfart

^ gonna have a saw till I that thing?


----------



## DanKrager

Huh?

DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Terry - Bonus points awarded for those fine low angle planes in the picture, but this is a tool chest thread… Not having posted a shot of the mustard cube yet is driving me nuts, and points have been deducted from your total as a result.

Pictures. We must… have… pictures.


----------



## Mosquito

lol I agree with Smitty…

I'm wanting to build a tool chest soon as well, and I've been leaning towards a small dutch chest…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Shoulda voted for a Dutch Chest Swap. lawl.


----------



## Mosquito

lol I should have


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, was asking if Terry was putting a saw till I the chest
NOT SWAPPING MY DUTCH CHEST, so there!
Absolutely, pics of the yellow perill are a must. Homeland security requires it


----------



## terryR

Oh, I can happily post pics of the yellow cube…may not look much different to you guys than last time…but it's growing on me! LOL!










Bummer that I lost a few points on that one…but I'll make it up when it's time for DT's! NOT bragging they will be awesome; but maybe a good laugh for the gang?

Kevin, I'm thinking of a small till in the lid for special saws? But not many. Gonna rely on wall-mounted saw tills.

Re-post of another photo from another thread on another day…










Edit: Oh yeah, what do I do with 3/4 gallon of this yellow stuff left over?


----------



## bandit571

Saw til, all you need is a clamp









For the ones NOT inside a tool chest til or lid.


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, body paint


----------



## terryR

Oh, those wooden rafters look nice! 
Wish I had 'em in this shop…

Todd, BTDT.


----------



## wormil

Was digging through an old Popular Woodworking and found this German Work Box.









Free plan and sketchup here:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/german_work_box

Kind of interesting because this would hold many or most of my power hand tools and hand powered tools.

Also, for fun, this is the toolbox of my dreams:


----------



## theoldfart

This one is kinda nice and it has stuff


----------



## CL810

Kevin, that looks like a must stop on your way home?


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, less than 45 min from our house!


----------



## Waterlog

My tool chest has had a profound effect on my woodworking. It follows me around the shop and is always by my side, it doesn't talk back and gives me unconditional support. I call it "Fido"

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/107964


----------



## terryR

^Looks nice! Even in…ummm…purple. 

The matching till fronts are great, as is the joinery. And I'm a sucker for Am.Chestnut…love it!

Hope my chest comes out as nice…working on the inner tills now…


----------



## theoldfart

^says the man with a baby-poop-yellow chest


----------



## terryR

^LOL!
going to town for BLACK immediately…


----------



## theoldfart

I was showing my granddaughter pics of the toy chest I made fo my grandson a few years ago and she saw pics of my Toolchest . She said grandpas toy box. Pretty much on the mark!


----------



## racerglen

Good bit younger old fart, good bit..!!


----------



## racerglen

Sheesh..
I think I could learn Morse code and post "stuff" faster today than my computer's moving !!


----------



## RGtools

Just sayin'


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hey, Ryan! How's things?


----------



## RGtools

Way too bloody busy to be frank. I need r&r in a very big way.

But I am finally working on projects again. Andy might even get me to post that sliding DT tutorial he needled me about oh 2 year ago.


----------



## CL810

Welcome back Ryan!


----------



## exelectrician

Two months in the making - I wished I made it sooner, A place for everything and everything in it's place.


----------



## bandit571

Until you buy some more tools, that is

That is the reason I now have two Tool Chests…..( might need a third before next year…..)


----------



## exelectrician

You know it,,, bandit - I now can close the drawers on my rollaway, whereas before,, well you how that is!


----------



## wormil

Sweet looking wall cabinet, I need one.


----------



## CL810

Ex, that is one nice cabinet.


----------



## terryR

hey Ryan, your ears must've been burning…I've been studying your box which holds your 50 cutters…building one for my 45. Actually, I'm now building version 2.0 since the first attempt yielded boxes with only enough capacity to hold cabinet scrapers! LOL!

Nice cabinet, Ex. Love the inner swinging till that hides your jointer. Lots of nice touches to enjoy! Hoping you are blogging the build?


----------



## bandit571

Think I may have made a mistake…....

Picked up a few of St. Roy's books at the Library…..

The Woodwright's WORK BOOK…

There is an old Joiner's chest in it…..

Starting to get ideas…..again. Need to find another old oak bed frame along a curb somewhere…...


----------



## exelectrician

terryR - Yes I did a blog, thanks for the compliments guys!


----------



## RGtools

Terry, that thing can be tricky, so good luck man. I remember putting a lot of thought into the minimum thickness of the book to hold everything. Still use the thing and it's held up great. So it's worth the effort.










exelectrician- can we get a closer pick of your plier storage? I am curious how everything is held in place.


----------



## bandit571

Tool Chest II is trying to hide, maybe?









Or, do I need to build SOMETHING for this crew to sit in/on, other than the top of my chests?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ex, that is a very fine cabinet you've built. Congratulations, I watched the blog too and it was well done, indeed. Thanks for sharing your work and work process, I learned and enjoyed!


----------



## terryR

Yeah, I downloaded Ex's photos so I could enlarge them and enjoy the small details! 

Looks like some sort of spring clamp that holds the pliers and screwdrivers nicely in place? Not sure I'm using the right word to describe the hardware?

Thanks for the support, Ryan, these lil boxes are tougher than I thought…my failed attempt at a close replica of Stanley's 45 boxes…










...but I'm learning, so it's OK! I failed to use dry quarter sawn wood, and at 0.170" thick, the hard maple cupped nicely when glue was drying in the heat closet. So, now, the slot is only wide enough for a cabinet scraper! When the darn power goes out, my heat source defaults to full blast, so dried the maple very quickly. Plus, I failed to clamp the whole mess to a flat surface while the glue was curing…

so I gots what I gots. Bummer. I could probably steam them soft and force in vertical supports, but one has already been dis-assembled to test glue. Oh well…Gonna use another approach with dry lignum vitae this time…maybe NOT so thin?


----------



## Mosquito

Terry, the boxes I have look to be a solid piece of wood with a slot cut in them to the depth of the irons. Then just 2 strips glued in both ends… Not sure I'd be able to make that work with anything I've got though lol


----------



## terryR

^yep, my vintage boxes are the same construction.
Cannot figure out how they did that in 1920's?
Pretty sure I cannot in 2014.


----------



## Mosquito

With a big enough table saw, I'm sure you could. Probably a batch operation. One chunk of wood, run it through one saw for the groove, then through the next saw to cut that one off. Repeat until chunk is too small to be useful/safe lol


----------



## johnstoneb

Terry
I used 1/8" poplar from Lowes. just glued thin strips top, bottom and ends then cut the top off.


----------



## DaddyZ

Alright guys, since no one else is going to say it I will.

Bandit your Shop is starting to look a whole bunch more organized & cleaned…

Good job !! Watching from where it was a few years ago to where it is now

Bravo my bud


----------



## exelectrician

Terry - new update to my blog, #8 closeups of the roller catches as per your request…


----------



## RGtools

Terry I used poplar too.

Did you use an offcut? That should be dry by now given the woods high exposure to end grain.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for teaching me the correct term, Ex…roller catches. Hope Mc-Master Carr stocks 'em…time for an order.

Guys, thanks for the tips on the lil cutter boxes! My mistakes were multiple: wet wood, too hot of a heat closet, probably let my clampage get sloppy and helped cause the warp? Now…got a better heated area, and kiln dried wood. AND, a prototype to follow! 

Got sidetracked yesterday, and started a few tills for my work table which is always overflowing with stuff…










...birch ply rabbeted, glued, and nailed together, and a thin laminate of walnut for looks. Pine runners to keep the tills under control. These will be filled with 100 little things which clutter the table's top, and give me space for a better Moxon to be installed! 2nd till in clamps now…still pondering pulls…


----------



## CL810

Timely posts about the #45 cutter boxes. The Paragon 45 I just got came with 38 cutters in a vinyl pouch. Immediate action required.

My first step was to resaw some poplar and had the same result as Terry; it bowed severely after planing to smooth out the band saw marks. So, on to Lowes…..

Recessed some rare earth magnets and nail heads to keep the lids closed. We'll see….


----------



## terryR

looks nice, Clayton. I'm pretty sure my sloppy clamping ruined my first attempt…

Cutting the lids off my second attempt today. I added two small vertical strips of wood inside to act as spacers; both between the irons, AND to keep these boxes from bowing!

The recessed magnet is a keeper idea!


----------



## SCOTSMAN

Heres one I made a while back when it was still under construction.Alistair


----------



## terryR

^very nice, Would love to have such drawer-building skills!

Clayton, meant to ask, how do you like the Paragon? I like the look of some of those double beaded irons! Time for me to learn more of these plow and combo planes.

Completed my 45 cutter boxes today; cut off the lids, cut out for the moulding irons. They are quite a bit thicker than Stanley's, but I like 'em. LOL. Peruvian walnut faces with Alabama walnut for spacers. I'll probably just go with a wax finish, and get to work joining the till to hold the 45 in the chest…










...more photos of the chest coming…


----------



## CL810

Nice Terry! Believe it or not, I have not used it yet. lol! Better remedy that soon.

*Alistair *that is one outstanding chest! WOW!


----------



## Mosquito

Terry, I hate how awesome your #45 looks due to the fact that I don't have one that nice lol

-

Got started on a tool chest for myself yesterday. Bottom and sides dovetailed together










And 1 side of the middle shelf dado'ed in place


----------



## bandit571

Evicted a few planes from the Tool Chest #2, so I can have even more room in there









That way, I don't have to dig around for a plane…


----------



## terryR

^Looks like a nice plane till to me! I'm beginning to wonder about storing all my users down in the base of a chest? Putting them up at day's end is gonna be tough…

No worries, Mos, I hate how nice your dovetails look compared to mine! lol. FWIW, I nabbed that SW45 off Jim Bode, so you know what it's worth! I certainly aim to keep it in the best condition possible for my living days. A piece of history…and a cool tool. I've only learned 2% of what this plane can do…but WILL ammend my ways.  Cannot afford a router, and I want some beaded workpieces…

Hey, Mos, I don't see a dado stack on your table saw…how do you make dadoes? Mallet, chisel, and routah plane?


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks Terry. I don't have the nicest #45's, so I'll just go for multiples lol

For the dado's… close. Saw (with knife wall), then chisel and mallet, clean up with chisel by hand, then router plane. Shooting video of it, so will likely have something similar to my earring rack video once I'm done


----------



## theoldfart

^+1, did the exact same process with the Schwartz in his Dutch chest class. Works like a charm.


----------



## Mosquito

Forgive the large number of pictures, but I'm doing better with taking pictures of this one, AND shooting video…

This was my dado process, pictorially.


----------



## DanKrager

Nice, Mos. Just n i c e!
DanK


----------



## jmartel

I gotta say, you're pretty hairy there, Mos.


----------



## CL810

Looks great Mos.

I hope you get a respectable marking knife in the DT theme swap! ;-)


----------



## Mosquito

I live in Minnesota jmart, gotta hair up for the winter 

CL, would be nice… it's the blades that a lot of us bought from the UK seller, in one of the handles they sell. Bought the handle with 10 blades. Will likely make one for myself if I can make it work, I may make one for the swap too. Little more difficult with out a lathe lol

Where I made it to this afternoon… trying to decide now what I want to do with the space underneath. Leave it all open, add a second shelf, add a divider and a drawer on the top section of part of it… not sure yet


----------



## RGtools

Awesome work Mos. I am curious about one thing.

What's the hardware next to your vise in this picture doing?


----------



## terryR

Mos, thanks for the photo tutorial…jeez! Maybe I should start searching your blogs? 

Have seen Sellers do it that way in the book…just haven't added the saw to the steps yet…looks fast!

...upgrading the hardware on me Moxon from Borg threaded rod…










...at this point last night, I must have spent 5 minutes just spinning those wheels! Oh my…I see what I've been missing! LOL.

This may NOT make my DT's perfect, but should make cutting them more friendly than my old hack! Still got a few details to add…


----------



## Mosquito

Ryan, do you mean at the very bottom of the picture? It's a barrel bolt that holds my horizontal stretcher in place. It's because my bench was initially designed to be taken apart and movable. Although I haven't used the feature other than moving it from apartment to house, it still retains the functionality


----------



## Mosquito

Terry, have you considered gang-cutting dovetails? That is clamping both tail pieces together to cut them at the same time? Not only is it faster, but I find it easier to keep the lines square across the end that way too (Not sure if you've had that problem or not, but I did when I first started cutting dovetails)

Not all my blogs are that useful, I promise lol


----------



## terryR

^have never tried that, but will…


----------



## CL810

> Terry, have you considered gang-cutting dovetails? ....easier to keep the lines square across the end that way…
> 
> - Mosquito


+1


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Oh….congrats on the BC Terry. I keep a little graphite on the theads- she spins nice! That's not your everyday acme thread.

I am starting to get a little rust on my BC wheels. Need to wax or sumpin.


----------



## RGtools

Thanks Mos. I was wondering if that's what it was.


----------



## terryR

Yeah, Red, I had a lil rust on those cast wheels, too, since they sat in my truck for 10 months in the box! Was thinking of some Rusteoleum in a battleship grey? Maybe hand painting the BC logo?

Those acme threaded rods are amazing compared to Borg 1/2" threaded rod! That WAS my previous hardware, and they were bent!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Those #45 cutter boxes look outstanding guys.

Awesome Mos. Thank you for the pictures, not sure what you are apologizing for. ;-)

Congrats Terry.


----------



## Mosquito

a post that's over 100,000 pixels long lol


----------



## theoldfart

A sweet chest at Colonial Williamsburg


















Poplar with veneer.


----------



## Slyy

That's a dang beautiful tool chest Kev, would love the opportunity to check that place out in person.
By the way, glad the wife caught you in that last pic, good to know buckled shoes haven't gone outa style!


----------



## terryR

^Gorgeous chest…been told a few times I NEED to visit that place!

You guys can laugh if you want, but I like those styles of attire above! I usually wear long johns in the shop, and have them pulled up to my knees. Not sure about the long stockings and belt buckle shoes, though. Hey, a Galoot has to dress the part!

Somewhere between colonial attire and the 'village idiot'...it's a fine line!


----------



## SCOTSMAN

Many thanks for the kind words re my toolchests top chest and bottom. They now are situated in my machine shop filled with all manner of milling cutters and lathe associated stuff for machining metalworking,which I also like to do from time to time .I am glad you approve .

Actually I should show some more of my woodworking stuff I both made or made and designed would anyone like to see some of my things built over the years? If so let me know and I will make up a new post.Alistair


----------



## CL810

Scotsman, I'd like to see more.


----------



## bandit571

Post away, Alistair!!!


----------



## racerglen

You bet, what I have seen is mighty fine.


----------



## Mosquito

Got a little work done on the tool chest tonight so far. Holes drilled and countersunk for the dado shelf, and the front panel. Even went so far as to pick up some flat head screws


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Looking fine, Mos. One step at a time, right?


----------



## Mosquito

That's right Smitty. Sneaking time in where I can…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ I have the feeling you're gonna knock that build outta the park by the time it's done…


----------



## Mosquito

I'm certainly trying to do it well. While doing the earring rack, I think I've found a good pace for myself. Keep it nice and easy and I don't make as many little errors while rushing. Seems to be working so far on the tool chest too


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Mos! I bet you a rusty plane you're done BEFORE me! And, I've already got a carcase. 

I keep getting sidetracked with drawers, bench on bench, saw totes, saw vise, and I turned my first spurtle yesterday which scored a few points with the wife! Muy importante!


----------



## Mosquito

I'd have been quite a bit further along after last weekend, had my wife not wanted to try making a pintrest project… had to order a battery holder for an idea we wanted to try adding, so that's on hold until that gets in. I'm out of town this weekend until Monday, but have the day off, and my wife works 2:30-11 so we'll be home earlier, and I'll have the rest of the day to myself 

Next task will be making the T&G boards for the back panel, I think


----------



## terryR

^awesome, I've been needing a lesson on my 45's matched irons! Cannot wait…


----------



## Mosquito

Like this?





That's one of the ones I'm thinking about redoing (actually, thinking about redoing all of them now that I have a better camera)


----------



## terryR

Mos, Thanks for sharing!

Since we have limited bandwidth, I tend to avoid youTube, but will download YOUR vids as time allows! Watched that one twice, and learned too many tips to list! Will watch again and again…love the sound of your 45! Looks like I'm on the right track, though, watching you fettle the plane.

hey what are you using to record video now? I shot some lathe video a few days ago with my iPad, and it's a hoot watching myself in the shop! Gotta make that next step…


----------



## Mosquito

No problem Terry.

I just use my point and shoot camera on a tripod. That #45 video was shot with my old camera, before it took a dive and broke the lens… The new camera records much better video quality, and has a better microphone too, which is why I was thinking about redoing the videos. And continue the series for the other ones too…


----------



## Slyy

Yeah, been watching your series on the Tube. Surprisingly few 45 and other combo videos on there! Appreciate you putting those up.


----------



## Mosquito

That's sort of why I started making them. It wasn't that easy to find good videos on the set up and use of it. My video making capabilities have gotten better now, so I look forward to making some more


----------



## CL810

Mos, I can tell already it's gonna be fun watching this build. Funny, I think sometimes I get as big a kick out of watching a build unfold here as I do my own. Heck, how many chests or work benches can you build for yourself, but here you can watch dozens unfold.


----------



## SCOTSMAN

OKAY guys I will look out a few and do them very soon.In the next day or so.Alistair


----------



## terryR

Mos, you 45 Evangelist, you…just so you know you're not preaching to the wrong galoots…

I sharpened a couple of my 45 irons today (pretty sure they've never seen a sharpening stone before), and had a go at some T&G action! 










Took a few attempts, but in the end I started to get some decent shavings from this pine. Holding that much mass true to the board's edge, and NOT pushing against the fence takes some muscle memory. Unfortunately, I sharpened the WRONG groove iron, and didn't know till my tongue and groove wasn't happening! 

But, I feel like a major step forward has been achieved in my shop…Thank You! Thank You! will study more of your youTube offerings!

Hey, that screw near the base of the fence which pushes it against the left skate doesn't stay tight. Any ideas?


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, "NOT pushing against the fence" ????
How are you keeping the plane consistently placed against the registration edge? I put pressure on against the fence to maintain a constant edge. Do you mean the fence tote maybe?


----------



## Mosquito

I'm a little confused by that too Kevin…

And I'm not quite sure which screw you're talking about lol


----------



## theoldfart

Mos, I think he means the fine adjusting screw that moves the rosewood fence.


----------



## Slyy

> I look forward to making some more
> 
> - Mosquito


Well please keep 'em coming. I for one cannot get enough wood working videos on the Tube, always a good time.


----------



## terryR

Sorry to confuse you guys, I meant NOT pushing against the fence knob…I know Leach claims that's every newby's problem! I try to hold the plane by the fence and rear tote.

Also noticed while watching Mos' video twice (again!) that his 45 doesn't have the screw I was asking about…I may just take it off since it stays loose. LOL.

Also noticed my plane was set up slightly different…wrong skate position…will practice with video this time! 

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread over a silly tongue…back to tool chests!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I'm pretty sure early versions of the 45 did not have the fine adjusting screw on the fence. The screw does not tighten but rather moves the rosewood fence in and out. If it is not snug then I can see you having problems with it. Maybe one of the non-permanent lock tite products may help.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Kevin. Mine is a late SW model.
Was thinking of a locking washer or something like you suggest.
Wife will kill me if I but anything online now…
Maybe plumber's tape?


----------



## theoldfart

I don't think a locking washer will work since it would not allow any adjustment. I would go with the plumbers tape. We should probably move this to the 45 thread, tool chests have more than one tool in them I think


----------



## DanKrager

+1 on the pipe thread tape (teflon) or (re)movable lock tite. It's an adjustment knob, not to be tightened. The thumb screws lock the fence to the rod, but they are hard to loosen and adjust microscopically. Hence the adjustment knob. 
It might be that the knob is not original with this plane or it is worn significantly. If it is or gets worn too much to do any good, there may be other solutions. I've been known to fill a hole with a high grade steel epoxy and drill and re-thread. It might be worth engaging a (free but good) machinist to drill it out press fit or neatly braze a pin, drill and re-tap. There are also inserts that can be threaded in. Before going to that much trouble, though, it would be good to determine if the internal threads or the external threads are the problem. 
Good to see your interest in the tool!
DanK


----------



## bandit571

Thinking of adding a chisel rack along the back wall of Tool Chest #1

Will be taking the older, way too thick trays out. Make a few thinner trays. The Tote can stay as is, though. Needs a place to call home, though.

Back wall is available, maybe a rack or two? May try to get almost all the non-long chisels in there. Most are under a foot long.

Might have to scrounge a few more boards, somewhere…..


----------



## Airframer

Alright guys.. I need ideas for a quick easy solution for what to package these tools up in for a toddler to use.










I was thinking small tool chest? Or would there be a better solution?


----------



## bandit571

Might look up one of the Handy Andy wood tool chests?

One I had back in the 60s was a metal box.

They also made ones like a wall cabinet. At least the larger sets were.


----------



## jmartel

How about a miniature tool box to hold your miniature tools?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This style has always looked cool to me. Easy-ish to make as well.


----------



## ToddJB

+1 to Smitty's option. Just today I gave mine to my father in law for Christmas.


----------



## racerglen

+2 Smitty, though where you'll score the Stanley brass ?
Dang man, you've got to have a Sweet Heart of a Sweet Heart collection !


----------



## Airframer

Could any of you post pics of the inside of that box?

I was also thinking of a small dutch style chest on wheels so he won't have to struggle to move it around…


----------



## bandit571

Maybe just a tote?









One could even add some holders inside it









and, later on, store it inside a larger tool chest









YMMV


----------



## terryR

Smitty, you have the sweetest tool collection!
Even totes!
Just sayin'


----------



## ToddJB

Sorry, no pics AF. Its on its way to Ohio right now. It was just an open box. Fold down doors on each side. It did have a 1×2 with kerfs cut in it so the saws would sit upright.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I don't own the box, just have a pic from ebay some time ago. Here's an end view as I recall the construction method. Pretty straightforward.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

The circles are where flat hooks were, that 'caught' on domehead screws set in the edges of each hinged lid.


----------



## ToddJB

I lied, looking back I do have an inside shot. The side things I think were for chisels. The saw "till" was on the other side.



















You can see a side shot in this pic of it on the bench


----------



## racerglen

Now that Smit's confessed, one of the magazines had a how to on that box rescently, AH HA, knew I Had it !ShopNotes Vol 23, issue 134, March/April 2014, page 14 !
!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Aha on this end:


----------



## DanKrager

Forget the tool box, Todd! THREE (count them …3) table saws? That makes for very expensive out riggers, says the guy with two of every machine, and three bandsaws…

Love the elf escalator! I'm gonna guess that stool is older than you are.

DanK


----------



## ToddJB

There's less than $160 in those three saws. One was a free parts machine that was in a fire, which will help build up the $60 machine from an estate sale, after that the $100 complete machine will go up on CL, for hopefully a hefty profit.


----------



## Airframer

It has been decided and building has begun. I have settled on a small ATC style chest. The dimensions were determined by the size of the poplar I had around. 15"x9"x7" . This way he can use it as a seat or a stool when needed and he can continue filling it with tools as he grows. No pics yet but will have some soon. Nearly halfway through dovetailing it together.


----------



## Airframer

Inspiration pic.. from http://classicseachests.com/tool_chest.htm


----------



## Mosquito

Sorry Terry, I was out of town so not around… The screw you're talking about, was it the one towards the front of the fence? I have one now, but didn't before. It just secures the fence in place when you have the micro-adjustment in use. When it's adjusted all the way to to the fence, it's not really necessary.


----------



## Airframer

We have a box like thing now 










I have noticed as I cut more dovetails that 1. I get faster at it and 2. They get tighter each time. Seeing progress is a good thing.

I cut these in about an hour and a half today. Now for the upper and lower skirt.


----------



## Mosquito

Nice AF. Looks good so far.

-

Little shop time last night, got two of the tongue and groove boards done for the back of the tool chest. I held off on the last two boards, as I'm thinking about using those for redoing my #45 tongue and groove video.


----------



## terryR

Looks clean, Mos. Headed to your blog for more photos…

Oh crap…I never blogged the start of my chest.


----------



## Mosquito

Haven't gotten too far on the blog just yet. Still have to edit together some more video first


----------



## oltexasboy1

This is a little off subject but I keep seeing guys talk about poplar warping or bowing after planing and I wonder if it is because the wood is wet. I just got a bunch of poplar at home depot and after careful picking most of it looks pretty flat. I am making a table for my niece much like the table I made for mywife but without the drop leaf, and was thinking about running it through the planer but I think now that I will just hand plane it like I did the other one. The first table turned out pretty well and has remained flat for a few years now and I can't figure out why "your" wood warps so badly.


----------



## terryR

Mos, sorry for all the questions lately…but I'm hungry for knowledge…

What do use for video editing? PC? Portable device? I've shot 5 minutes of video in my whole life, but want to try. Lots of information in a few minutes of video!

Can you recommend any decent software that an old timer can learn? LOL! I used to be a computer geek…just a few short years ago!


----------



## Mosquito

I use Pinnacle Studio now, but used to use AVS Video Editor. Before that, I just used Windows Movie Maker. All of those were on PC, as I don't own a Mac. For starting out, Windows Movie Maker (free) was fine for me. It doesn't have quite as many options for editing, transitions, and other stuff like that. It was fairly sufficient for me for a while, and is pretty easy to use.


----------



## theoldfart

Lil' bit of the Dutch itch from Mos. First time in the shop in over two months, the hardware came in just before we left. Pulled out some tools









Measured and installed









Ready for paint, and I've been acquiring tools to fill it


----------



## Mosquito

Nice Kevin. I just got a shipping confirmation for my hardware… where'd you get yours from?


----------



## theoldfart

Handles and hinges from Lee Valley, the hasp and lock from ??? I have to look it up, get back to you ( senior moment)

Edit: ok got it. Van *************************


----------



## Mosquito

I ordered mine from Van ************************* as well (though I ordered all of it, as it saved on shipping that way). I'm kind of excited to see what it's like. I went with Oil Blackened finish


----------



## yuridichesky

Kevin, you are turning into tool chest collector 

Very nice build!


----------



## theoldfart

> This is a little off subject but I keep seeing guys talk about poplar warping or bowing after planing and I wonder if it is because the wood is wet. I just got a bunch of poplar at home depot and after careful picking most of it looks pretty flat. I am making a table for my niece much like the table I made for mywife but without the drop leaf, and was thinking about running it through the planer but I think now that I will just hand plane it like I did the other one. The first table turned out pretty well and has remained flat for a few years now and I can t figure out why "your" wood warps so badly.
> 
> - oltexasboy1


I don't think the issue is confined to poplar. Any wood even if dried is going to change dimensionally when moved from one environment to another. I made a few pieces for my kids in CA and even though the moisture content had reached equilibrium in my shop, they still moved a bit out there.


----------



## theoldfart

Mos, the hasp is a bit rough, not quite straight. Still, i like the looks of it.

Yuri, trying to avoid the collector thing so one chest for the home and a traveling chest for going to classes and workshops. I've seen quite few chests for sale in this area and FORCED myself to say no! ( not easy, I want to give them all a good home  )


----------



## CL810

Kevin, I can't imagine a better scratch for a tool chest itch than the hardware you put on your Dutch chest! Really nice.

I'll provide a good home for those chests - send them! ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, thank you.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Classy, Kevin. Classy.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Red. Nice sliding dovetails BTW!

Edit: just saw your reply to JMart, what a let down doooood!


----------



## theoldfart

I'm ready to paint my Dutch chest and have a question for you enthusiasts. How did you paint the lid? Obviously the top and sides are painted but what about the inside of the lid? Did you paint the exposed portion of the underside? Brad and Terry I know you've done yours, any ideas? These are the kind of questions I agonize over ( and NO I don't need a life!)


----------



## Airframer

I have 2 pins left to cut and the skirt will be ready for glue. I got busy and only managed one pic lol.










I also planed the groove for the 1/4" ply bottom into it.. #45's are too much fun..



















I also need to knock the case apart and glue it but this is moving faster than I had hoped


----------



## Mosquito

I was actually curious about the same Kevin lol

Nice work AF!


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, " #45's are too much fun.." One can never have too much fun in woodworking. EVER!


----------



## theoldfart

Mos, just looked at Brads, Brandons, and Chris Schwarzs. They did not paint the bottom of the lid at all. I may still paint the exposed parts, I think they'll get pretty dirty over time.


----------



## terryR

Kevin, no paint on the underside of my lid, although it's just personal choice where to stop the line I suppose. Hmmm, now that I think about it…there may be paint on the inside of the dust skirt? Wow, guess I'm having a junior moment…not old enough for a senior moment! LOL.

The lid is open now…I'll have to get a photo in the AM so I even know where the paint stopped!

Thinking of T&G cherry for the underside of the lid? All my tills will be cherry…gonna look sharp with that black outer paint!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I forgot what kind of chest your building. English Carpenters or Dutch?


----------



## terryR

English, ol chap…
About 2×2x4 feet.
Surely that yellow image was burned into everyone's memory!


----------



## theoldfart

OH, English chests are just so….....so yesterday. We be talking about Dutch style. hehe

Yea, my painting question pertains to the Dutch chest especially since I still haven't painted my English one yet. ;-(

My bad.


----------



## bandit571

Painted ladies , now is it?

NOT









Like mine as it is…..


----------



## CL810

Kevin, lid half open but the entire inside I used shellac. More pics in project post.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy what came first, the shelac or the paint?


----------



## ToddJB

I'd shelac first. Easier to clean paint off shelac than shelac off paint.


----------



## CL810

^, plus I taped it off.


----------



## terryR

wow, I didn't know I was allowed to use finish on the inside…sure would've helped my tape job keep that yellow paint under control.  I was hoping to clean this up before sharing…










...but that's where my paint line stopped, FWIW.


----------



## racerglen

Terry, who's your friend holding up the lid, looks familiar..


----------



## terryR

^Mr. Chinese Ply?
He gets around…


----------



## theoldfart

Think Terry has a purple sock puppet?


----------



## terryR

^Oh, the purple thing…that's a tie dye t-shirt. I was selling tie dye a few years ago, but the chemicals were too rough on me, so now I have lots of colorful shop towels!


----------



## Airframer

Skirt is about done.. I am not 100% happy with it but this is more or less a trial run for my chest so lessons were learned and I think with some sanding and plugging it will look alright..


----------



## Airframer

Another quick update.. got all the gaps sorted out and the lower case is glued..










The case was a piston fit into the base  *phew..


----------



## Airframer

Nearly there… Just waiting on the glue on the lid then the upper skirt.

First time doing frame/panel joinery.. was definitely a learning experience!


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, why the clamps and bats on the top? I can understand the side clamps. Whats up?


----------



## Airframer

The ends wanted to fold under with the clamps on so that just keeps everything flat for now.


----------



## theoldfart

OK, thanks.


----------



## Mosquito

Haven't gotten as much done as I had hoped on the toolchest on my day off today. Ended up redoing a couple #45 videos earlier.

Finished up the T&G for the back of the tool chest.


----------



## CL810

.


----------



## Airframer

Upper skirt dovetailed and test fitted.










Tomorrow I'll be cutting it in half and gluing it up to the box and lid…. Soooo.. Cloooose..


----------



## jmartel

Well, once the new year rolls around, I will be making a tool cabinet. I picked up a copper piano hinge on clearance from Rockler last week for only $11, and I've got plenty of Alder leftover. Back/front will likely be ply. Goal is to dovetail the case, but I haven't dovetailed anything other than scrap yet, so we shall see how it goes.


----------



## Airframer

Time for hinges and fitting some tools..



















Oh and it appears that I have broken the toolbox thread… just call me thread killa!


----------



## bandit571

Needed a rack to store MOST of the chisels not in Tool Chest #2, so….









Drill a few holes in the bottom of the old chisel tray. Was going to use a side, but the pine just broke off. May attach this TO the back wall. This being Tool Chest #1. Down it the bottom, there are a few wood bodied planes









Stanley #31 Jointah, a Jack plane sitting in front of a Coffin smoother, and a LARGE Ohio Tool Co. 81 Try plane.

Put the tote back in the tool chest #1









So I can figure out what to make to fill the gap in front…...


----------



## Airframer

Teaser shot.. She is done except for a finish.. Stuffed with all his new "Tools"


----------



## terryR

^very impressive and fast!
Eric, you always do clean work.

well…I promised beginner joinery laughs…


----------



## JayT

I don't see a problem, terry. Just get a bigger hammer. 

Awesome work, Eric! He'll have a big smile on Christmas.


----------



## putty

Ha Terry,

I too am a beginner at dovetails, I cut my first tails backwards


----------



## Airframer

> well…I promised beginner joinery laughs…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


I did that very thing on this tool chest just yesterday lol. Been there done that!


----------



## Mosquito

lol I've been there too Terry!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I keep one of those on my bench to remind me!


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, I may or may not have a few pieces that are about an inch shorter than planned.


----------



## Slyy

Took a second look but…... Pretty funny Terry! No DT's under my belt yet but have a couple through mortise and tenons now that I coulda done a lot better on (though I'll take 'em).


----------



## terryR

LOL. Glad I could offer humor. Life's too serious sometimes! 

I honestly hsd no idea that was a possibility! Had to learn the hard way, I suppose? Already laid out the NEW needed pins for the entire little till.

...that's what I get for proclaiming I was finished with DT 'practice'!


----------



## Slyy

> LOL. Glad I could offer humor.
> 
> - terryR


Terry, I'm sure we all do/have plenty to share as well!


----------



## DanKrager

I don't see the entire problem, I guess, but in this case a bigger hammer is not the best solution IMHO. The board just needs a 180" twist and it will fit perfectly! 
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

^ maybe create a mobius (sp?)loop?


----------



## john2005

Yeah, Terry. Just work it into the design…


----------



## DanKrager

Thanks for being a good sport Terry. We've all been there and I've attempted to create my share of three pronged blivets.








DanK


----------



## Airframer

Annnnnnd.. done..


----------



## terryR

Random bench shot from today…










...just making it up as I go…


----------



## theoldfart

^ and it is a …...........


----------



## terryR

Oh, it's the bottom view of my 45 till.
Cherry, DT's, rabbets, and beads for the background pieces.
Used the 66 for the first time!


----------



## theoldfart

Got it.

Another yellow chest!









Ready for either black or dark green overcoat, have to make up my mind. So see I really can paint a tool chest, HA.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ah, paint!....


----------



## terryR

Kevin, like your color yellow much better than mine!
Milk paint?


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, yea Mustard Yellow.


----------



## ToddJB

Are you guys following some painting tutorial or article that discusses this process?


----------



## theoldfart

Uh, I went back to Carters Whitling chest build from a few years ago.


----------



## terryR

Sorta following a paint scheme done by http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling

damn, even an old fart can out type me!


----------



## ToddJB

thanks boys. That's a worthy chest to mimic.


----------



## donwilwol

the color is ok, as long as it'll be mostly covered up I guess


----------



## theoldfart

It is already covered up Don, no worries!


----------



## theoldfart

Voila


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Much more gooder!


----------



## ToddJB

I like it. I like it a lot


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Pimp sauce Kev.


----------



## donwilwol

now drag that puppy behind you pickup and fill it with tools!


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks boys, still a few more steps to go. Going to distress some edges then Danish oil then wax.

Don, already have several tools ready to go.


----------



## CL810

Looks great Kevin!


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Andy, decided to do one more coat of the Lexington Green then on to the Danish Oil.


----------



## ToddJB

A dark paste wax like Maur put on his 6 board bench would look awesome on that green


----------



## theoldfart

My thoughts exactly !


----------



## DanKrager

Dark wax after the distressing, right? That's already awesome, Kev.
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, yup! Gonna take it slow on the distressing and use 100-120 grit. I've been working on this thing since last July so there are already several authentic dings.


----------



## Mosquito

Nicely done Kevin! Keep scotchbright pads in mind for distressing too, they work wonders for distressing computer cases, imagine it'd work just as well for this


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Kevin, let me know if you'd like to borrow my go-to 'distressing tool' :










It really works!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, I remember your chest distress process. Just so happens I have both of those.
Moss, I have maroon, grey, white, and green pads!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Then you are set! . So, why are you in LJs and not working on the Dutchie?


----------



## Waterlog

What is the tool on the right in Smitty's picture?


----------



## DanKrager

Smitty is sleeping late today I guess. It's a brace operated round tennoner and it is adjustable for diameter. You cut round tenons on the end grain of stock, as in chair rungs, wagon spokes, etc. It may be the camera angle, but I don't see the depth stop in it. 
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Adjustable Hollow Auger


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ What they said. It's also a "Tool Chest Beater-Upper-Thinger".


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, i have to work at a clients this am then making a bourbon pumpkin cheesecake this afternoon. i will need a break in the middle of all this so another coat of paint will be applied! maybe just a bit of single malt to smooth out the process


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm making dressing today (old family recipe), then wrapping some presents, then Christmas festivities begin in ernest at 3PM. The Time has Come! Plenty of shop time planned between now and the first of the year, need a project to concentrate on, though. Many planned, just need to pick one and get busy.


----------



## theoldfart

Hopefully I can finish the finish part of the chest and get on with the interior. I have three panel saws, two back saws and a dovetail saw for it as well as several woodies. I'm on the hunt for some vintage chisels, already have the two curved ones that DanK sharpened for me. Also have a corner chisel that needs some attention, the work just never ends ( I hope!).


----------



## Waterlog

Thanks on the tool ID. Did I read that y'all paint or shellac over top of wax? If so, what is the purpose? Learning a few new things from watch this blog. The chest I made far exceeded what I expected from it. Almost like the best tool in my shop. I seem to be way more organized then before.


----------



## terryR

Kevin, like your green a lot! Very tasteful. Also glad it's not black like mine shall be. 

Never would've thought of a scotchbrite pad for distressing…Thanks, Mos!


----------



## theoldfart

Water, BLO or Danish oil over milk paint THEN wax.


----------



## theoldfart

oil done, next up wax


----------



## CL810

Nice Kevin! Good fit on the access panel. Hope you post as a project with lots of pics of it filled. That's two chests now. Is there a third planned? :-0


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, funny you should ask about another chest. All of my projects in the near future are structured around moving to CA in 2016. This cabinet will be converted to a saw case.


















There will be two drawers kind of like a legal size lateral file with full extension slides.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ooo, I like that cabinet project! Right up my alley, nice finish work too, Kevin!


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Smitty. I rescued the cabinet from my days as a financial guy at a very old foundry/manufacturing company. It was from an addressograph machine and held the metal customer address stencils.


----------



## bandit571

This wandered in the back door while I was at wallie-world…..









Just what I needed, another stray…..


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, great save!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Bandit, BTDT.


----------



## terryR

^workmate looks in pretty good condition!

Minor progress here on the bottom of my tool chest…completed 2small tills to hold my 41 and 45, as well as the replacement boxes to house my 45 cutters. cutters are now in Peruvian Walnut to protect the original SW labels, all else is still cherry.










I still haven't designed a base for the 45 till which will accept the plane in all resting configurations…just a block of coco catches the depth stop for now. Both tills will be secured to the sides of my chest with ?hardware. Probably countersunk hex bolts in black?

so, now the base of the chest looks like this…










...still out in the open until black paint hits the carcase, any day now. That birch ply is just a false floor which drops down into the chest…in case I change my mind on the French fitting! 

Another small till for the cutters and Veritas rabbet next, and I just scored some 1/4" rare earth magnets to secure the lids on those cutter boxes. gonna lose the rubber bands and try Clayton's idea!

Been busy photographing the new wenge totes being made for the planes on the right side;..used the lathe to bore the holes for hardware! Yep, got pics.


----------



## yuridichesky

Terry, this box for rabbet (shoulder?) plane is just very cool!

Here's my toolbox-related fixtures that I just finished:




























So my forstner drill bits got their homes finally.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, Yuri, nice work. I'm afraid my internal tills are a bit more utilitarian. Those both look nice enough to be displayed in a glass case!


----------



## terryR

Nice, Yuri, I need one of those! My Forstner bits are out of control.

Thanks, Kevin.I imagine by the end of the build, I'll have some plainer looking tills. For now, I'm learning, and the base of a toolchest seems a good place for gappy DT's!


----------



## CL810

> I still haven t designed a base for the 45 till which will accept the plane in all resting configurations…
> 
> - terryR


Terry, please hurry….sloppy 45 tills everywhere, especially mine, need your help! ;-). Be sure to bury two of the small rare earth magnets, one was too weak.

Always good/motivating to see Yuri's work.


----------



## terryR

^LOL, Clayton, I think a sand bag in the base might work best for the 45 to rest on…

Thanks for the tip on magnets! I grabbed some 1/4×1/4" magnets from LV. They sure seem strong for their size.


----------



## Mosquito

What I had intended to do when I built the box for my #45, was make a groove in the bottom of the box to stand the plane up. It's how I put my #45 on my plane till as well (I made a shelf with a groove). It is the only thing that holds it up


----------



## terryR

Yeah, I thought I'd start with a groovy base, too. 
Thanks, Mos, we should've looked to you in the first place! 
sweet shoulder plane!


----------



## theoldfart

The exterior is done, hardware back on, just have to wax .









Now I need to plan out the interior. Tool kit pretty much accumulated and not shown are two tenon/caracas saws and a dovetail saw.


----------



## terryR

^very nice, Kevin.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Terry, I too am loving that shoulder plane till!


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Smitty.
It's joined with just rabbets and dadoes, so I thought a few curves would spice things up!


----------



## Slyy

Nice Box Kevin!


----------



## theoldfart

Jake, thanks.


----------



## wormil

Odds and ends box I started after seeing something similar on The Woodwright's Shop. Made from 50+ year old recycled yellow pine. No fancy joinery, just rabbets glued and nailed together. The little tray has box joints. Still working on the lid.


----------



## theoldfart

Rick, guess the wood is fairly dry, eh!


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Rick.
Gotta love reclaimed wood!
Except after it petrifies.


----------



## terryR

...headed to town for black paint!
So, what in the world do I do with 2/3 gallon of 'sun ray'?


----------



## theoldfart

pant the chicken coop, what else?


----------



## racerglen

Or the Prius ?


----------



## bandit571

Or a Chevy Cobalt???


----------



## Mosquito

This may be too practical, but donate it to a local schools theater department? lol


----------



## theoldfart

I meant PAINT, but then again pant might be appropriate!


----------



## terryR

^yeah, my wife suggested the chicken coop as well…but what a horrible color to look at for the poor chickens…and me!

I should've chosen a John Deere yellow…or a small batch of milk paint! 

Prius? Cobalt? Huh? We live on a farm…only trucks out here! Big, diesel powered, stinking, muddy. But, I love the 8 foot long trunk when buying lumber…


----------



## wormil

> Rick, guess the wood is fairly dry, eh!
> 
> - theoldfart


You can say that again. The dark growth rings are rock hard while the light growth rings are almost punky, chiseling was not fun which is why I didn't cut dovetails. Worked on the lid today. Debating how much paint to leave on, I think the lid looks about right.


----------



## theoldfart

Finally got some motivation to abuse some exotic wood. Lotta 'lectrons died in the ensuing melee!









Mitre box did get used









Panel saws have a home









Next up, plane till
BTW should be noted I stole the layout from Brad, he has a great blog and saved me a boatload of trial and error. Thanks Brad


----------



## Buckethead

Nice, Kev! Your stuff is always impeccable.

Rick, I love the look of that pine you've got. I dig the worn paint look.


----------



## theoldfart

Thank you Mr. Bucket, good to have you around again.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Kevin. I may have to borrow that.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry no problem, I did


----------



## Mosquito

That's the part I'm trying to figure out as well Kevin… I want to have a pair of panel saws in there like that, just gotta figure out how I'm gonna do it


----------



## bandit571

What does mine look like now?









Bit of a mess, actually. Held a Meet & Greet today, BOTH "toy" chests were opened up and gone through…

Line from a movie:

"Where does he get all those toys…"

Swapped a few tips, a few planes, and generally had a decent time. EVERY plane in the shop got drug out and used. A nice, clean floor didn't stay that way very long…









So, when I wake up tomorrow, have to re-clean, and put almost all the toys back. Except three new ones…









"Ve haft vays…." of dealing with grubby looking things…


----------



## racerglen

Too much fun Bandit, and that tool chest is looking marvelous !
Grubby things ? not for long in the dungeon eh ?


----------



## terryR

Bandit, your chest looks great! I wish my bench would take on a patina like that…it's just dirty.
Got a feeling I'll need multiple chest, too…


----------



## donwilwol

I seen this in an antique shop yesterday and thought it was a unique design.


----------



## theoldfart

I've never seen one like that before Don. What were they asking for it?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

How much did you pay for it, Yoda? 

Sounds like a fun time, Bandit.

Kevin, well done w/ those saw cleats. Chest is coming together!


----------



## theoldfart

Utilized the small space behind the saws for pencil, ruler, nail set and so on.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That's crazy talk! What keeps them from falling out when you close the lid? This is black magic, it is…


----------



## CL810

Kung Fu magic, pure and simple.


----------



## Mosquito

That's what I was wondering too ^


----------



## DanKrager

"...hadn't thought o'that…" he says with a bless your hearts.
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

It's a mystery I tell ya'


----------



## donwilwol

> I ve never seen one like that before Don. What were they asking for it?
> 
> - theoldfart


Way more than i'd spend. It was something like $285.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

What? That's it? That's all the explanation we get?

"Bless your heart" ain't gonna cover it.

Don't leave your brothers hanging, Kevin…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Holy Cr&p, Don! No friggin' way that box is worth such a price. Despite looking cool, there's a ton of wasted space inside; a 'traditional' form of dutch chest could easily be adapted for a drawer, if that's what the builder was after. But, to each his own. $285… I'm building one tomorrow. Any takers at, say, $250?


----------



## theoldfart

The secret will revealed ( someday )


----------



## Buckethead

Lololol…

Kevin keeping some powder dry for the big reveal!


----------



## CL810

Kevin is a teaser.


----------



## theoldfart

hehehe


----------



## CL810

What's the over/under for Kevin cutting a finger with xacto blade pointing up?


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, way ahead of you, already reversed the knife! I've found blood tends to stain the wood.


----------



## wormil

So is salt water/ammonia fuming the best way to go for aging brass? I don't want to buy any specialized products. Need to age some brass hinges for my vintage look odds & ends box.


----------



## terryR

I dunno…that chest Don found might be worth $250 to me. Can we haggle that $285 price down a bit more? looks like some nice vintage hardware that would cost $75? to replace.

Is it huge? Or are those planes miniature?  Looking at the axes propped next to the chest, it's big! heck, I'll take the broad axe, too. Is there a froe nearby? mine has a crack around the eye!

Oh yeah…I'm a little dismayed that none of you came up with the correct answer for what to do with all that extra yellow paint. Apply more to the toolchest! LOL. Especially at the corners due to the upcoming distressing times. gotta make a custom distressing tool…similar to Smitty's!


----------



## ksSlim

Rick, egg yolk seems to enhance the process.
If it goes too far, you can buff it off.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> So is salt water/ammonia fuming the best way to go for aging brass? I don t want to buy any specialized products. Need to age some brass hinges for my vintage look odds & ends box.
> 
> - Rick M.


Yep, those work. If not, liver of sulfur is like 5-10 bucks at craft stores or amazon. It smells just as bad as the name.


----------



## CL810

Rick, ammonia works great. I used janitorial strength which is about 10% amonium hydroxide. I hung the parts to be aged by string through a lid to a large paint can with a few ounces of ammonia in the bottom. Works fast. Some of the brass plated stff can be done in 5 minutes. High end pieces like Brusso solid hinges may take 20 - 40 minutes.

Also, I'd do it outside.


----------



## wormil

> Rick, egg yolk seems to enhance the process.
> If it goes too far, you can buff it off.
> 
> - ksSlim


I thought you were kidding me but you weren't!
https://www.simplybeadskitclub.com/newsletters.html?mode=issue&issue_id=607&department_id=49

I see that muriatic acid also works and I have some in my shop.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Liver of sulfur is harmless….except it smells like a million monkey farts.


----------



## wormil

> Liver of sulfur is harmless….except it smells like a million monkey farts.
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


That might be worth owning for other reasons, haha.


----------



## theoldfart

OK DanK was dead on, closed the lid then couldn't open it when the stuff slid forward !


> "...hadn t thought o that…" he says with a bless your hearts.
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


BUT, I have a solution








Magnets will hold it in place.


----------



## DanKrager

There was no doubt that you would figure it out, Kevin! Looks handy, even. 
DanK


----------



## Buckethead

Yes. It looks like a design feature rather than an ad hoc remedy. Really nice.


----------



## terryR

Nice lid, Kevin.
Any finish on the inside of yours?


----------



## theoldfart

Probably going to use Danish oil.


----------



## theoldfart

Now the drills and bit brace have a home









up close and personal


----------



## ToddJB

That's rad, Kev. I like it!


----------



## Slyy

Dang Kev, that's a nice setup!!!


----------



## CL810

Smart looking layout Kevin.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I don't want you to get all big-headed, but I like that approach for eggbeater and brace. Very, very nice, Kevin!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Too late. Kevin already has an ego as big as Schwarz, according to all the interwebz forums (totally joking).


----------



## terryR

+5 or 6 to that set up, Kevin.
Your colour green is very pleasing to the eye…


----------



## theoldfart

Red, ego gets crushed watching everyone's bench build and furniture

Terry, thanks

Now back to skiing!


----------



## theoldfart

Simplified an earlier design, wifes idea


----------



## DanKrager

Good wife, Kevin.
DanK


----------



## ToddJB

Yep. Better.


----------



## terryR

Another small till for the base of my chest from cherry…this one is to hold my 45 cutter boxes, and keep them from flopping all over the inside of the chest. had a bit of fun removing this part…










...decided I wanted more room for my ten thumbs to grab the cutter boxes. AFTER assembly. LOL!










Just rabbets and dadoes, cut by hand, and wax for a finish. There's a nasty chunk missing from the far front corner due to the nature of this wood. It's straight from the sawmill, and stored improperly for a couple of years, so is full of checks, and knots. Probably not suitable for fine furniture, but seems to work great for the bottom of a toolchest? I certainly won't throw it away! Although it's a challenge for a newby to join. That's cool…I like to be challenged!

Hoping the shop will get over 65 degrees during this warm spell, and I can add Limousine Leather paint to the carcase! 

Already started the final till for the base…need to get this project done…and stop playing with new totes and knobs!

Also been thinking of a way to lift these cutter boxes from the top…might skip magnets for catches and go to a tiny leather belt?


----------



## theoldfart

^ pneumatic lift, push a button and it pops up like a toaster


----------



## terryR

Hmmm…we have an old toaster I could smash!


----------



## bandit571

I seem to have a different sort of "problem" with my two tool chests

HOW do I keep things from taking up space on the lid? Kind of hard to lift the lid to open them up…..


----------



## ToddJB

Banit, make domed lids. Then the only thing you could be tempted to set on there would be saddles.


----------



## theoldfart

Engineering overkill on the drill rack









Do like cutting DT's though









tools of choice


----------



## CL810

Way to carry on OF! No broken bone is gonna stop you.


----------



## terryR

^like the fret saw!
Broken bones?

So, there HAS to be a better way to shape stopped rabbets than my methods of chisel and routah plane…



















This cherry is only 7" long…too short for the rabbet plane…too narrow for a larger routah. What plane do I need? Bullnose? Less than 4" long?


----------



## DanKrager

TR, I'm betting on your chisel. I think some quick work with a chisel can chop that as fast as you can fiddle with a plane. Now, if you were to plane the whole rabbet and glue back the "matching" (as close as you can) stop blocks, ....that's another story. You have a flooring saw? You could rip most of the top edge of the rabbet, cut down the ends and split almost the entire thing out in one scoop. For that matter, if you can saw the top edge, you can also saw the 90° edge. 
DanK
Edit: another thought. secure two pieces of equal thickness to a base plate so you have the wider support for the router plane.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Dan.
Yeah, I could've removed more with a chisel…was just getting tired after 2 previous rabbets, and low caffeine levels.

That board above is actually 10" long…I finished the 7 inchers already. LOL.

After time to eat and look at photos, I think securing the little boards between low dogs and using the full sized router would help. Gotta get an end vise built…The lil Veritas clamps are nice, but tend to push small workpieces up off the benchtop. Hence the holdfast which was in my way.


----------



## Buckethead

My dream tool box is staring to become a carcass. Just getting started.


----------



## DanKrager

Nice DTs there Bucket! Never see that crack after you paint it… Yellow, right? Can't have that fancy curly stuff showing up in a TOOL BOX!  LOL! 
DanK


----------



## ToddJB

Those are some fine DTs, Bucket


----------



## Buckethead

Thanks guys…

There are a few checks in this piece, which I have disregarded as it is a tool box. The DTs have been causing me to procrastinate, and although there are a few gaps, they are fitting tighter than I expected. This is the first set of for in the carcass. Hopefully I improve as I go.


----------



## jmartel

Looks good, Bucket. I should be starting a tool cabinet myself, soon. Just need to get some more ply for the front and back. Sides will be leftover Alder that I have.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Terry, I'd try a #92 in chisel plane mode for that stopped rabbett.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, broke my thumb in two places skiing on Tuesday. A fret saw works way better than a copping saw, much smaller blades so it turns in a kerf easier.


----------



## Buckethead

Need. Fret. Saw.


----------



## terryR

Very nice DT's, Bucket! Better than mine! I'm also hoping the toolchest will help me work the kinks out in my DT's. So far, all I've cut will live in the bottom of the chest for only ME to see! 

Sorry about your thumb, TOF, sounds like a painful spot for an injury! I always thought DT waste was cut out like this…










...from corner to corner. But while searching for the image above, I found an article by The Schwarz using a fret saw to remove ALL the waste. Must grab fret saw and try!

Thanks, Smitty, chisel plane was all I could think of…except building larger stuff! LOL.


----------



## Mosquito

+1 on the fret saw. I use one for dovetails too


----------



## jmartel

Not that I've been doing them on anything other than scrap, but when I've tried dovetails I just have used a coping saw to remove the waste. I'm sure a fret saw would be even better. I leave about 1/32" -1/16" above the line though to chisel out.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya Terry, that's the great thing about a fret saw. You can turn 90 degrees anytime. Thus sawing DT waste in one swoop.


----------



## terryR

^looks like a time saver.
just chopping out that 1/16".

Who sells the best blades? I already know I'll break them.
Besides Knew Concepts.


----------



## Mosquito

Personally, I use Olson brand scrollsaw blades in mine. They're decent blades, and are available locally for just as cheap as I can buy them online


----------



## theoldfart

If you can try to find one of the MF large fret saws, 12" throat 









No need to turn the blade, you can dovetail a 24" board!


----------



## Buckethead

Can I just buy a fret saw blade for my coping saw? I have a cheapie that was my dad's.

Miss you dad…


----------



## DanKrager

There is at least a slight distinction between coping saw frame and a fret saw frame, in my mind. The difference tends to follow the type of blade used. Coping saws use rather coarse pinned blades and fret saws use unpinned and usually very tiny (thin and narrow) blades. The most common length of fret blade is 5". Hand fret saw frames can use the same blade as scroll saws, which are powered vertical fret saws. FYI there is a very specialized fret saw known as a chevalet (not chevrolet) used in marquetry. A jeweler's fret saw is sort of like a hack saw frame in that the outer frame leg is movable on a bar and can be set to very short length of blade. 
Both types of blades are available in wood cutting tooth patterns and metal cutting tooth patterns.

It's a narrow field of specialty saw, but might be worth its own thread?
DanK


----------



## jmartel

I'll be picking up some plywood tonight that will partially be used for the back and front panels of my tool cabinet. Unfortunately it's going to have to be built at the same time as 2 other projects due to timing, so hopefully it gets finished in a timely manner.


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, one other distinction is a coping saw can rotate the blade along its long axis, a fret saw can not. The Knew concept saw is a hybrid, since it uses fret saw blades but still can rotate the blade. There is a thread for chevalets here on LJ's.


----------



## Buckethead

Ok guise… Whole nuther tool box related question for teh panel. (SWIDT?)

Due to persistent insomnia, most likely brought on by going to sleep too early, I woke this morning about 4:30, promptly grabbed my tuberwebs viewing apparatus, and saw a thread here about trying to date a military chest with handles with the sweetheart logo on them. I thought to myself: "self…. I must have a set of those fine handles for my own tool box what's being built by me". (Or something to that effect… Gimme a break… It was like 4:30 am)

I looked at every thread commented on since midnight, and can't find the thread. Maybe I was hallucinating?

So anywhoo… Anybody got a line on where to get something like that other than waiting a billion years for the chance encounter in the wild?


----------



## terryR

Hmmm…must look up chevalets.

Love my Olson coping saw, and blades! Made both these cuts in less than a minute, although a bit coarse…










...headed for the routah till…










Been drooling over that Knew Concepts saw for a while! Ever heard a bad word about it?

Not sure it will help my DT's yet…I keep cutting out pins on the wrong side of the waste line. Gotta learn to stop that before I can get away with another saw! You guys know I have a saw problem!!! LOL.


----------



## Buckethead

Terry, your tool display…. Errr… Box is looking oh so fantastic. I love your humble approach, followed by superior results. Very entertaining, and educational. Terry got zen.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Been drooling over that Knew Concepts saw for a while! Ever heard a bad word about it?
> - terryR


There are a few common complaints about the KC saw:
- the price. I don't think they're outrageous for a US made tool, but most are comparing to $20 coping saw. Not really apples to apples. 
- Frame not a ridged as expected. It's not as stiff as I hoped, but it's very light, and still gets the job done. If this trait is paramount, folks can opt for the titanium. 
- Color and handle. Pretty easy to change for picky-butts like me.

Like Kev said, the KC eliminates the need for the a deep throat because the blade rotates at preset notches.

Only other thing I would add is that KC has both a coping saw, and a fret saw option…..by their definition. Not sure if there was the two options when I bought mine, but I have the $99 fret saw as opposed to the $149 coping saw. The coping saw looks a little bigger, and the coping saw uses a pinned blade.

Most folks use the pegas blades, or the olsen.


----------



## putty

Does a fret saw use blades for a scroll saw?

never mind, just read that Mos uses them in his saw.


----------



## Buckethead

ZOMG I FOUND IT THIS IS THEM WHERE DO I GET ME SOME


----------



## terryR

Bucket, head thee to flea bay…IF you score sets of four, I'll pay 1/2! And, I'm only showing ya the pretty side of my DT's. LOL

Thanks, Red. Never heard anyone say the KC frame wasn't as rigid as expected! You may be a picky butt, but I feel the same about the horrid red color and handle for a $100 tool. I think they painted it red on purpose…makes the Ti look all the more sexy!

Looks like TFWW has an Olson fret saw reasonable…


----------



## theoldfart

OOPS, minor setback









Leaned on a weak spot, snap Trying a glue up, failing that will revert to ply


----------



## CL810

Kevin, can you run a dowel in a couple of inches to reinforce?


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, I have a piece of 1/8"ply, so I'll laminate both sides. Since there's not a lot of meat there, I nixed the idea of dowelling.


----------



## terryR

Today my sock puppet friend helped me spread some Limousine Leather paint on the toolchest!










All I can say GOOD at this point about black over yellow, is that it's easy to see where ya left off!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Okay, where did all the progress reporting go? Enquiring minds, you know…

To a brief introspection, now: My toolchest continues to get opened each time I'm in the shop but the purposes really vary. From the 'just want to take a look inside because it's all I have time for' to the 'I have the tool I need right now in the chest, let's get it.' I don't *depend* on it yet, and I'm doubting I'll get there. Why? Probably because I don't have to. I'm not going down to a single set of chisels, for instance, or bits, or brace, or plane, or etc. etc. etc. that get placed in the chest. There are multiples, and in the case of joinery planes, a 'one toolchest' approach would just be silly.

In other words, still tweaking what's inside, making what's there as relevant as possible. The contents should be there for use, not just for storage.

But still very much enjoying having the chest and working with it.

That is all, carry on.


----------



## terryR

^my progress stalled due to cold weather…cannot paint…and instant gratification projects off the lathe.

How about one handle of two that form a string burner? From Jojillo?










Has brass ferrule now, allows gee-tar string to pass through and be captured by saw nut at the butt end…for making those burned lines.

Edit: and a few hours doing this…










...then correcting that concavity!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I like those burned lines, and have old gee-tar strings… Post a picture! Ryan won't mind a detour on this thread, I'm thinking.


----------



## Mosquito

I can't remember what the last update was, but I'm further than this; just don't have pictures uploaded yet. It's unfortunately been put on hold for a little bit, until I can get some other projects done


----------



## Mosquito

Actually, I guess you can see the 'further progress' in this video, but not that well. I got the top made (but haven't attached the breadboard ends to it yet), and got the hinges installed:


----------



## terryR

love your videos, Mos! Hoping to have one worthy of sharing soon…

Smitty, I have to admit…I enjoy different tasks every day in the shop. Toolchest one day, shaping steel for a knife the next, re-building this old house the third. I have more progress on the chest, too, but am slow to upload somedays.

You have used strings? Wanna trade? I priced strings for the first time yesterday, and was shocked! Sure don't need new ones here…I can play a Native American flute, though. 

O1 steel knife headed to an LJ buddy…6 hours so far…but I love it!


----------



## carguy460

terry I might have some old guitar strings layin around, and I really need to restring my telecaster and my acoustic, so 12 more strings may be available soon, if you don't mind some corrosion and rust and crud from my beer/smoke/sweat soaked fingers…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I just did a restring and didn't save them. Next time I do, I will. And Jason, I think those kinds of strings (rust, crud, beer, etc) would be just the ticket for etching turnings!


----------



## NinjaAssassin

terry, pm me your address and I can also add to your stash of old, used strings as I get to it.


----------



## putty

question on the strings, do you use the smooth or the wrapped strings?


----------



## terryR

I use both types of strings…will be happy to help defer the costs of new ones! 
Thanks, guys!


----------



## carguy460

terry - PM me and I'll get you some strings…hope its not a problem, but I won't be back home until next weekend, so it will have to wait till then. Anyone else needs them let me know, I don't know how many I have right now (mybe none until I restring next weekend) but I can split them up, restring more guitars, keep in mind for my next string swap, etc.

I also have a bass…wonder if those thick, wound guys would work or be too big?


----------



## yuridichesky

As usual lots of cool stuff in this thread.

Here's my small addition to this toolbox kingdom - small drill bits organizer:










More details are in the project post.


----------



## terryR

Yuri, that's a great build! Your joinery always looks clean.

Minor progress on my chest…a small till for the LN routah from cherry and walnut:










and an upgraded bottom for the 45 till:










^hard to see the dado and cut outs for the plane, but this view show off the DT's the best. LOL. A walnut block forms a rest for the depth stop.

These small tills will be screwed to the sides of the carcase…when hardware arrives. Decided on black wood screws to match the black exterior…

And, I french fit my No.7 into the false floor headed for the toolchest, which now looks like this after a coat of Danish Oil:










The first coat of black is barely visible in the background…
Large tills next…


----------



## ToddJB

Looking amazing, Terry


----------



## AnthonyReed

Wow Terry.


----------



## yuridichesky

Terry, I can't wait to see your chest complete. From what it's seen now it's gonna be pretty cool one.


----------



## CL810

For Kevin. ;-) Installed a bar gauge and saw.









I hung a rip saw I got from Wally. I needed a rip that would fit in my travel chest. My lid is bi-fold. Here's a pic with the lid fully opened.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

More than a handful of features I really like about your work, Clayton. Seriously. Well. Done.


----------



## CL810

Thanks Smitty.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, absolutely masterful! How 'bout some details on that bar gauge? Inquiring minds need to know.


----------



## CL810

Kev, I purchased the heads from Lee Valley.










Mmmmm, mahogany…


----------



## racerglen

A cut above Clayton, I used leftover screen door moulding, the stuff you staple on to
hold the screen in place :-(


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, I'm laughing right now. Mine are using rubber bands, I hadn't heard them called guage bars. Oh and by the way, mine are Mahogany!


----------



## DanKrager

It's interesting how ideas recirculate…like necktie styles. Hang on to it long enough, it will be back in style! Here are a bunch of bar gauges in lengths up to 5'. Can be used in any combination covering all sizes with just the right sized bar. And they are stored on french cleat widgets, but you might not be able to see them.

About 14 years ago I made these:










based on this idea from a magazine.










I also use story sticks a lot…making some for my saw bench dovetails. There's just something extra satisfying about using a well made home made tool. Sure I look at the LV, LN, and Rockler (and lots of other sources) and drool a little bit, but it just motivates me to make better home made stuff!


----------



## CL810

Kev, I feel set up! LOL. Best belly laugh I've had in a good while!


----------



## CL810

> There s just something extra satisfying about using a well made home made tool.
> 
> - Dan Krager


+1


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, most assuredly not a set up, I'm just clueless.


----------



## terryR

Great stuff, Andy!


----------



## Buckethead

I avoid this thread because I'm building a chest and every time I see a new update, my plan changes. Some excellent workgroup going on here.

Can you guys shed some light on the function of bar guages? Are they for repeat measurements?


----------



## theoldfart

Bucket, they are used to check the diagonal measurement of a box shape. Once the two diagonals are equal the box is square. I posted theses pics in the past year or so when someone asked about them.


















Hope this helps Please note the "high end" rubber band!


----------



## DanKrager

Bar gauges are useful for checking and laying out repeat measurements. They are generally used in the medium to long measure range, not so good for tiny things which are just as accurately measured with a square. A bundle of them could function like a story-stick. Checking for squareness of a case, frame, or drawer is a primary use. If you've ever laid out a row of studs, you likely used a 14 1/2" bar gauge…a piece of 2 x cut to length. Etc., etc. 
DanK


----------



## Buckethead

Thanks for the info, gentlemen. I'm glad I don't have a set of gauge bars to check the carcass of my tool chest. (Ignorance being bliss.). ;-)


----------



## Cantputjamontoast

St. Roy also made some from a piece of copper pipe and a soldered nut.

The LV are nice. The St. Roy ones are cheaper and you make it yourself. 
He calls them pinch rods


----------



## Cantputjamontoast

http://www.thirteen.org/programs/the-woodwrights-shop/pinch-rods-and-squeezy-blocks/

good stuff


----------



## Buckethead

So I finished hacking in the dovetails.










I dry fit each side individually, but I'm not smacking this thing together completely until I have the dados for the back and perhaps drawer slides in place.

I've got some spalted, flecked oak I'll be using for drawer fronts. Not sure what to use for the back. I've got two pieces of mahogany that if I could resaw, would make for some awesome book matched action, but I don't have a band saw, nor a panel saw. Prolly gonna go with some of the more straight grained oak.

For the back: ship lapped or tongue and grove?


----------



## theoldfart

Buck, T&G. Better seal against dust. Leave a small gap for expansion.


----------



## terryR

pins look good, Bucket!

Got my till runners installed, and the false floor is in the chest…all on hold now for the Tool Swap…deadline approcheth!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice work Bucket. I'd really encourage you to use hide glue for that glueup.


----------



## Mosquito

^ I second the above. I'm actually trying to use hide glue as my go to glue for most woodworking I do. Good stuff


----------



## putty

Hide glue for longer work time?


----------



## Mosquito

depends on which one (hot or liquid)
Liquid hide glue has longer open time. Hot hide glue has a much shorter open time, which can also be nice


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yeah, why hide glue?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nm, mos types quickly.


----------



## putty

is there much of a difference in work time between liquid hide glue and Titebond III


----------



## Mosquito

About 3 times the open time as TBIII, according to the manufacturers of each (I use Old Brown Glue for liquid hide glue)


----------



## putty

Thanks Mos


----------



## BigRedKnothead

What Mos said, plus hide glue doesn't blotch finishes as much. And as I recently found, it often blends nicely as a "filler" on DTs.

That titebond hide glue(doesn't need warmed) has taken the place of yellow glue for most all joinery for me. Still use yellow glue on laminations though.


----------



## DanKrager

One of the problems with original hide glue is that it becomes brittle and does not flex when cured. Has the new hide glue changed from the original stuff in that regard?

I question its long term viability in joints that are going to experience moving strain, like chairs. A glue with slight flexibility, i.e. doesn't shatter when flexed (polyvinyl), is more desirable for that kind of joinery. That simultaneously makes the flexible glue undesirable for veneer and lamination and other situations where movement is not desirable.

I've used the yellow aliphatic as a compromise between the two, and it has served me well over the years. It becomes hard preventing movement but not brittle in miniscule movement,i.e. I've never had a chair or stool come back for repair, but I've repaired many a hide glued chair. Theoretically, one should be able to repair a hide glue joint with just heat. I guess I didn't experiment enough because I could not get a durable repair that way. Doesn't someone have a sig line about "In theory… but in practice…" ?

It's been a long and lively debate in other forums, so maybe it is one of those "personal" preference things.
DanK


----------



## NinjaAssassin

Hide glue is good for most things you would want to pull apart to repair without damaging the wood around the joint, e.g. guitars, violins, etc. It's supposed to split pretty predictably along the glue line which makes it a great for the previously mentioned things but probably not very good for things mentioned by DanK (chairs, etc.). I'm pretty sure that was the primary (if not only) glue available for a good long time, which is why so many instruments and furniture pieces have managed to survive and be repaired.

At least, this is what I've seen and read.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

So if I don't want to pull it apart later, and don't want to have to repair it, tbii/yellow glue?


----------



## Mosquito

matter of opinion I suppose, whatever the operator is comfortable with. But one of the advantages of hide glue over pretty much anything else is that you can apply heat and moisture (has to be both once it has cured) and un-glue stuff glued with hide glue. In the right circumstances, that can be a bonus (veneering especially).

I'm not sure that it's that much weaker than modern glues, but in dovetails… most of the strength comes from the joint anyway, right? Otherwise what's the point of dovetails in the first place


----------



## NinjaAssassin

What Mos, said. Hide glue's pretty strong (think about the tension a guitar or violin neck under) but will eventually fail a hundred or so years later. Not to doubt modern medical science, but you might not make it to see the joint fail unless environmental issues caused it to fail sooner. That's just a guess, though.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Here's a good pdf article about glues:

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

And another:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/best-wood-gluefranklin-liquid-hide-glue

Basically hide glue isn't quite as strong as yellow…..but still pretty darn strong. 
And cheap yellow glue is as good as the expensive stuff. I've used elmers yellow for years with no problems.


----------



## Buckethead

Good read on the glues, Red. I'm really surprised to learn that the cheap yellow glue is actually the strongest, especially gluing Ipe. That is a shocker.

I think the hide glue sounds like a winner for this chest. There are a couple spots that need a bit of sawdust and glue. A couple tails, and there are checks I the boards that I disregarded. Being a tool chest, this seemed like a good spot to improve tails, and experiment with filling cracks.

I took some shots of the stock I want to use for the drawer fronts, but the dungeon photos aren't doing it justice.

Bottom drawer will need to fit my Stanley #7, and I'll be book matching 2 pieces together for that one. I'm getting giddy thinking about it.

I really need a stanley #45 right now. Need to plow dadoes for the back, and a drawer runner. Also, want to tongue and groove the back pieces with a bead on one side of each piece.

I want this to be a full hand tool build.


----------



## Mosquito

> I really need a stanley #45 right now. Need to plow dadoes for the back, and a drawer runner. Also, want to tongue and groove the back pieces with a bead on one side of each piece.
> 
> - Buckethead


If it's dado's you want, then you want a #46… Yes, I'm an enabler ;-)

Good finds on the articles Red, I had read the second one before, but hadn't seen the first


----------



## Buckethead

Mos, does a 46 do everything a 45 will do? (Rabbet, t&g, beads)?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Probably better, is what he'll say.

Bless his heart.


----------



## DanKrager

Bucket, As far as rabbets, t&g, dadoes, yes. I'm not aware of any molding cutters for the 46. The skew of the 46 makes it hard to form those cutters for mere mortals. I'm not sure the factory ever made other than straight cutters for it. I do have a tongue cutter blade but nothing like a sash cutter, bead, cove, or ovulo. 
DanK


----------



## Mosquito

^ What Dan said. No molding, or beading. It does grooves, dadoes, rabbets, and T&G. I haven't done T&G with any of mine yet, but grooves, rabbets, and dadoes work well. It also has a slitter, but… yeah lol

What I like about the #46 over the #45, is that the main body skate is wider. This means the smallest iron it has is 3/16" on the #46 vs 1/8" on the #45. But what that thicker skate means, is that it's much, much easier to register square to the work piece on the #46 than the #45. I also have other preferences for the #46 vs #45, but that's more deserving of another thread lol


----------



## Jagebo

My dad was a pegboard guy so I was a pegboard guy (until last winter!). After multiple episodes of cold, cold days followed by warmer, moist days, every steel surface in my unheated garage shop was covered in dew and ultimately rust. I had always liked the compactness and portability of tool chests but I also really liked to see and reach all my tools rather quickly, When Schwarz did the article on the Dutch Tool Chest, I knew this was my new tool storage/protection solution. Since there are several of these up here, I'll just focus on my design tweaks:

1) Since dust/rust was my enemy, the lid has a dovetailed dust seal









2) The base has a dovetailed skirt for sturdiness and I think it just looks better that way
3) The fall front is seated in the lip that the skirt creates and has interior battens on the sides and an exterior batten on the top to ensure that there was no 'straight shot' to allow air/dust in









4) While unintentional, the fall front fits perfectly over the main compartment and when the outer batten is on the bottom, it becomes drawing table for my plans









5) A slim drawer with divided compartments for the more delicate measuring & layout tools fits under the main compartment.
6) Pass through slots are along the back wall for my 38" straight edge, rules and level (the height was determined by that straight edge and the width was determined by the length of my #7 joiner and block plane put heel to toe)









7) Went nuts on tool racks since I like things organized. (I really like the slip case saw till for my dozuki and flush cut saw.)



























The Money Shot…...









(notice the now empty pegboard in the background!)


----------



## ToddJB

Dear Heavens, Jage, NICE job. Very inspiring.


----------



## JADobson

Wow! That is a great looking chest. I've never really thought a chest would be good for how I like to work but I could definitely see myself working out of a chest like that.


----------



## terryR

Very impressive, Jagebo! Nicely joined and outfitted.
I really like the front also doubling as a drawing surface! 
Your carved name is a great touch, too!


----------



## theoldfart

Hmmm ATC built Dutch style Dutch built ATC style. Think we'll call it DATCH.


----------



## Mosquito

I will repeat the above, that looks really nice Jage!


----------



## Jagebo

> Hmmm ATC built Dutch style Dutch built ATC style. Think we ll call it DATCH.
> 
> - theoldfart


Now that is thinkin'! I think I'll call it that too!

I must say that it did puzzle me why Schwarz detailed his 12 rules for making a tool chest and then left so many out when he built this one.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dutchy posted the following on Jagebo's tool chest page:

Dutch means that it is from the Netherlands. But this model of tool chest is for so far I know from Germany. The dutch model is really different. When a German says "I,m a german" in his own llanguage he says "Ich bin Deutsch". And in the USA made other think that he was Dutch. It Is also called Pennsylvania Dutch.

When you google "timmermanskist" you will find the dutch model.
When you google "schreiner werkzeugkiste" you will find the German model.

It's up to you which most resembles.

Googling those terms and choosing "images" yields incredible eye candy!


----------



## jmartel

Pass the dutchy on the left hand side…

Nice toolchest. I really like that.


----------



## Buckethead

Nice info, Smitty. Incredible toolbox, Jagebo. I'm left feeling inadequate.


----------



## Slyy

Jagebo most excellent chest, extremely well executed, thanks for sharing!


----------



## theoldfart

Upper section pretty much done









On to the lower section


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Kevin!
Your thumb must be healing?


----------



## theoldfart

Pretty much all set Terry. Only hurts in the extreme cold.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Which would be all the time. (stupid extreme cold…)


----------



## Buckethead

It's even cold in Florida. High of 40°, today.

I'm understanding the "it's too cold in the shop" narrative I've heard so much of recently.


----------



## CL810

Glad your back in the shop Kevin! Chest, as always, looking good.


----------



## theoldfart

Bucket, I'll be FL in a couple of weeks. Please make sure it's warmer by the time I get there, OK?

Andy "as alway", guess it has been almost a year.  I'm a deliberate worker.

Around zero this am, got up to 14 degrees. Bit of a warm spell,hehe.


----------



## Buckethead

Should be considerably warmer. Cold snaps usually fade quickly here.


----------



## terryR

we've warmed up to 26 degrees here…but it's sleeting and 3" is predicted tonight!

view of our humble 1870's home from my shop…










oh yeah…Alabama!


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome shot, Terry. The house is that far away from the house? What is that 400 yards? Was the shop originally a barn of some sort?


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, wife keeping you at a distance? hehe And I complain about being in the cellar.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Todd. My shop is new…built about 5 years ago. Quite a walk from the house when carrying 20 pounds in hand tools! 

Here' our old…I mean vintage…barn across from the house, wife just got home and was feeding the critters.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, it is a beautiful location. Must be incredible in the Spring and Fall.


----------



## ToddJB

So cool. Steep pitched roof for a place that rarely sees snow.


----------



## terryR

It certainly is beautiful, Kevin!

The poor old home could use an extra $250,000 in spare parts, but the view frequently makes up for no cell signal or city water.

to be honest, I'm ready for city water, and unlimited high-speed internet! LOL!

Wanna buy a lovely, operating, farm?


----------



## ToddJB

Speaking of which, Terry, any closer to a move date?


----------



## terryR

^Sadly, no, Todd…still lots to repair here.

Kevin, sorry about stealing the thunder from your actual woodworking update.


----------



## theoldfart

Thunder? more like a fart!


----------



## DanKrager

HA! Thunderbutt! That's a good one!
DanK


----------



## CL810

Terry, beautiful pics! Northern AL?


----------



## Slyy

Wow Terry, excellent Homestead there! I would love to have a bit of acreage in the future, 10'd be about right for me. That light dusting makes the place look absolutely stunning, very True Grit like.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for the kind words on our poor old home, guys! It's built from all hardwoods…black walnut flooring joists, 6×6" simply held in place by gravity. Studs in the walls I've opened up are all oak, mostly white oak. All of it milled across the street from the house at an old lumber mill which no longer exists, unfortunately.

Our ceilings are oak as well, painted a Martha Stewart cream (yuck!), but the old circular saw marks are visible. Baseboards are 20" tall with a hand cut bead across the top, and a little tearout from the plane used. Transom windows over some interior doors. A nice place with hand made touches!

just unfortunate that it's located so far from the nearest town, everyone who has lived here since plywood was invented has hacked the old house, and repaired it to a lower standard than I would accept. The electrical wiring is a complete puzzle…I replace everything I find since it doesn't match the Book at all. In fact, I have no idea how our 240 volt pump house is running with the supplied power! Only 2hot wires…no neutral or ground! But, out here, if it still works, please just leave it alone…and focus on stuff that's broken! LOL.

Yep, Andy, N.Alabama…about 10 miles from the TN border!

We have about 160 acres, plus or minus due to the paved road ROW, and streams which belong to the State. HA! Sturdy fencing, hogs, goats, and chickens for food, usually 7 fresh eggs daily, reliable water source.

ALL For Sale!  Tractor and ZTR mower included!
----------------

OK , back to toolchests…

I'm actually using mine now. Planes in the false floor…dust seals works like a dream! The chest has even been rained on slightly since my Hurricane-proof shop leaks a bit, and still protected my precious tools! Sweet!


----------



## DanKrager

Terry, I'm old enough to know how that pump works wired the way it is! 
In short (no pun intended) the electron circuit is completed from the load to an earth ground. In the old days, ground wires were literally that…they went to a copper (or metal) rod driven into the ground far enough to engage moisture. A well wired modern panel still has that feature, especially if the panel is exterior. My guess is that you might still have some knob and spool wiring which is dangerous for several reasons. It works on the same principle and usually the circuits are very lengthy and convoluted to get everything with one (bare) wire, part of the reason it's dangerous (overload). If you haven't found it already, look around. The earth ground is there somewhere and VERY important to your current (again no pun) situation. This is also dangerous because it's not only earth ground but load ground as well. It's probably exposed wire (no insulation) and it carries nearly full line potential to a wet spot. Be vewy careful.

It's only in recent years that the load ground wire has been included in electrical circuitry in addition to the earth ground. While the old ways worked quite well in areas where the water table was sufficiently high, in dry seasons and arid areas not so much. The electrical path of earth ground became too resistive and the power available was reduced, motors strained and problems ensued. The load ground wire solves that problem by providing a direct path for the electrons to return to the generator instead of traveling miles through the subterranean wet soil or water.

There. Electricity 101. Transmission wiring is a whole nother story.
DanK


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Dan! The current situation works since we live on top of the water table it sounds?  The pump sits on humid concrete!

But, the copper ground to mother earth was severed many years ago. As soon as it leaves the dirt, someone cut it. Scary, but I always knew WHY the pump turns on every time I touch it! 

Yes, a vewy scawy place to work. But, since the actual running water WORKS…I let it go! I've already replaced the pump house and plumbing…electrical is next! So, you think I can get by without replacing 300 feet of electrical wire in the dirt…just add a copper ground?


----------



## DanKrager

Ya, scary! If you've actually done that, you should buy a lottery ticket! Several of them.

Yes, at the very least get that ground hooked up ASAP, even if temporary. And cut the power BEFORE you do it. Without it I'm betting that you have measurable potential at the faucet to a ground…not good.

Putting in a load ground may not be required in your remote area (it's not here, yet) but it's probably a good idea. Direct bury wire is expensive, and so is putting in a conduit (plastic pipe) for it, but there's a lot of good reasons for the conduit. And compare the $ to a hospital visit…begins to look cheap.

Your local transmission wires may not be updated, possibly for awhile yet, but sooner or later there will be a three wire "entry" not just a two wire. Being ready for that is a good selling point.

What kind of tractor? I'm partial to green, especially if it is a 1940s unstyled A or B.
DanK


----------



## terryR

Will get that ground connected soon, bud, Thanks again!

We have just the direct bury wire at the moment…I wanna add conduit, we'll see money allows it?

Tractor is definitely green out here! Ford and John Deere dealer in the nearest town!  Sorry, but it's a new model with automatic transmission, cruise control, and no power. Really a big lawnmower.


----------



## DanKrager

Well, then as long as it's green and has a cup holder, what else could you want?
1. more power
2. more POWER
3. remote control
4. automow
5. GPS row guidance
6. duals all around
7. cab, A/C-heat auto windows
8. wifi
9. reclining seat
10. 20" TV and surround sound
11. coffee maker
12. self cleaning
13. autohitch to stuff
etc.etc.!

I used 2" plastic pipe (sched 40) for conduit and put down two side by side. Overkill, you say? NOT! The guys that were building my garage (over the buried cable) laughed at me. Here's what happened. I had a direct bury cable go bad because it jumped up and hit the spade, then shed its insulation. (no sparks) So I had an electrician splice it. Should last many years. Well, about 4 months later half the house went dead. Then I remembered the splice. So I decided this would be a good time to put in panel for meter, main switch, transfer switch etc. The broken electrical was in one conduit (under the garage), and when I uncovered the unused conduit, you should have seen the electricians light up. They were energized and got the job done in record time. Now the other conduit is empty. Saves SO much grief.
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ I have so much to learn…


----------



## Buckethead

Yeah. That's top advice there, Dan. Very practical for long term homeownership.


----------



## terryR

Changed my mind…now I wanna be like DanK when I grow up! 

Double schedule40 would be a killer plan, but I'd need to bury 600' of it! I suppose the actual digging will be the hard part…no difference in assembling two sets of pipe…except initial cost. Actually, I had the same plan for upgrading our water collection! Two pvc pipes exiting the cave's dam with shut off valves…easy to repair one while water supply is still running!

+1 to your tastes in tractors! Especially #13! Man, I feel like attaching implements is risking my fingers quicker than using the table saw daily!

How about a sweet toolchest photo? I've been reading Mr Sellers again lately…










...chalk paint and water based top coat.


----------



## Mosquito

Terry, that's chest is the current series for the Paul Sellers Woodworking Master Class


----------



## terryR

Mos, was just reading about the masterclass…again! 
We are getting unlimited internet this month,
is the masterclass worth $15 a month?


----------



## Mosquito

That's up to the individual. I've been a member/subscriber since it started. I've only built 1 of the projects (well, two of one project, the wall clock) but the techniques and tips are what I like the most anyway. Different approaches to the same thing. I like it. They also let you download the videos DRM free when you're a member, so you can download them to a tablet and take it with you into the shop, or somewhere you might not have internet access (or fast internet access).

Meanwhile, I finally edited the 3rd video for my dutch tool chest




View on YouTube


----------



## theoldfart

Really good video Mos. One problem I'm encountering right now is the top front panel has cupped on me. I thnk it's from the milk paint, since it had a lot of water in it. We'll see how it looks in the sumer humidity. When's the next installment? :-0


----------



## johnstoneb

This










Is supposed to become this or a close facismile.










I have always wanted a gerstner too chest butthe drawers are built for a michinist rather than woodworking tools. When I saw this box few months ago on FWW. I knew this was the box I wanted. I am going to add one more drawer.
It will be out of oak and bubinga. The oak was salvaged from the Idaho Historical Museum. The carcase will be oak and drawer fronts and lid inserts will be bubinga.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Thought an Irwin would make an appearance at 4:25, otherwise looks great.  Incredibly clean work you do, fun to watch. Thanks, Mos.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for the info, Mos. I like Paul's Blog so much, it's hard to NOT sign up for his masterclasses. Going to try it out!

Great video! You are very inspirational to watch! 

Bruce, that's a sweet tool chest…cannot wait for the re-claimed oak and Bubinga.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, that's what elbows are for!


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks guys!

*Kevin* next week, hopefully. I've got enough video already I think, just need to get it edited. Unfortunately that's where it may taper off for a little bit, couple of other projects have taken priority for the moment, sadly.

*Smitty*, I didn't have one long enough in the shop, would have had to go all the way across the house to the garage to get one lol Laziness won lol

*Bruce*, that's a very nice looking toolchest, please share progress! I wanted to make one similar to that after my dutch toolchest, something with drawers for storing various other things, like chisels, brace bits, etc.


----------



## CL810

Saaay whaaaat?


> You have tools in your garage


? No way.



> *Smitty*, I didn t have one long enough in the shop, would have had to go all the way across the house to the garage …..
> 
> - Mosquito


----------



## Mosquito

lol yes, that's where the electron killing tools live. And my post drill, Jorgenson cabinet masters, and most of my 36" quick clamps) :-D


----------



## Slyy

Bruce that's gonna be a fun build to watch, hope you share all of it!

mos great video as always!


----------



## johnstoneb

I thought I would do a blog on it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

And has Schwarz now jumped the shark with the whole ATC mantra? He's building a cheat to fit below his Dutch chest, when all his stuff doesn't fit in the straight Dutch.


----------



## theoldfart

Damn, since I'm a schwatzite lemming now I have to build that too?


----------



## Buckethead

There is no cheating. There is only dogma, which must be, at times, disregarded entirely.

That's a heap of commas, but note the correct usage.


----------



## Buckethead

Okay… Maybe one too many.


----------



## Mosquito

I can't say that I've seen what we're talking about yet RE: Schwarz


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop




----------



## Mosquito

huh. I guess that'd be useful if it weren't going to be a travel chest, like he states the original dutch chest he made as being.

(Did that make any sense? I have no idea)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

He's travelling with two chests of essential tools, is my take. Wonder if the contents of both fit into his english chest?


----------



## ToddJB

Bucket, here's some more insperation:


----------



## Buckethead

ZOMG!


----------



## Slyy

Yowzas!


----------



## johnstoneb

I have started my adaptation of the FWW essential tool chest and have started a blog also.

http://lumberjocks.com/johnstoneb/blog/50401

This is the start.


----------



## LucasWoods

Is there any free plans websites you all like to go to to get ideas or use? I think my next project is going to be a tool cabinet.


----------



## johnstoneb

This is where I stand at end of day 4. Dovetails and M&T's cut need to do a little more on the M&T's.










Google tool cabinets and see what pops up there is a ton of plans out there. It's more finding one you like.


----------



## theoldfart

Lucas. look for Chris Schwarz's books and articles. Also look for Jim Tolpin's books

Finished the top section of my Dutch Chest









Bottom section has my drilling and boring stuff along with a shoulder plane.


----------



## Tugboater78

Question, pulling out some stock for dutch chest build. Wondering if cedar ( bought some pickets from borg a while back) would be good enough for tool racks and dividers in the chest or would there be some reaction to the tool steel like the tannins in oak.

Tof - lookin good! Btw i know you mentioned it before but what color is that on your chest, i been eying lexington green, my fav color is a forest green and it looks closest.


----------



## theoldfart

Justin, it is Lexington Green. As for the cedar, isn't it a resinous wood? As long as your sure it won't react with the tools I say go for it. I used a combination of pine and pine/plywood laminate. The saw holders on the lid are Ipe'


----------



## johnstoneb

I've got the carcase done mostly, roughed out the lid this afternoon. Might finish it tomorrow and start on the drawers.


----------



## DanKrager

Lookin' really good, Bruce! You, your children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren should be able to cherish such a durable, beautiful chest. 
DanK


----------



## johnstoneb

Yesterday, I got the lid cut out, fit and glued up, and the drawer fronts cut out.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^This is fun to watch Bruce. Your doing a fantastic job on a build many of us would like to undertake.


----------



## Slyy

You ain't messing around Bruce! Thanks for showing us the progress, it's looking great!


----------



## johnstoneb

I spent yesterday and today dovetailing and fitting drawer bottoms and the half mortise locks. The first drawer I mad enough mistakes on and repaired them that when I drilled the key hole off center. I just set it aside and will build a new drawer tomorrow. I do have two drawers completed and looking pretty good. My OCD wouldn't let me try to fix anymore on the first. I could patch it but everytime I look at it I would see the blemish.










































Making a new drawer tomorrow.


----------



## johnstoneb

Spent the last couple of days with the shop door open and fitting locks and escutcheons for the keyholes and getting all the other hardware drilled and mounted. I got the finish on the interior parts. I am using amber shellac on the oak and clear on the Bubinga. I did a test on the Bubinga and 1 coat of amber left just a tint of yellow several coats will really yellow it out. I'm going with clear on the bubinga. Got the new drawer made also.

Got the carcase glued up today. It measured out almost perfectly square top and front just clamped the way it is. No diagonal clamps required to pull it into square. That made me really happy.


----------



## terryR

looks great, Bruce!
The finish should make that Bubinga sing!

Bummer about the first drawer…but I've made Bubinga firewood, too, while attempting totes. Glad you just built another drawer…the mistake would shout at me every day as well.


----------



## Buckethead

Question for the panel.

These pieces represent two drawer fronts.

Book matched? (Referring to the top two pieces in the frame)









Or extra spalty?









I'm leaning hard towards two option A, especially after taking the photos.

Still there is more spalting on the other side of the one piece.

CAST YOUR VOTE FOR FUN AND PRIZES!


----------



## jmartel

Option A. What'd I win?


----------



## Buckethead

View on YouTube


----------



## theoldfart

Meester Bucket, I think A. BUT mucho confuso since it loos like edge grain to me and not sure what the drawer layout looks like. Need input!


----------



## Buckethead

It's quarter saw spalty oak that is about 2.75" tall, and you see about 24" of width. It looks really good in person, but not as fab in the dungeon photo.

It's got yer rays, yer flecks, your spalts, even got some yellow right 'round the eye of sauron there.

Chest is Gerstner inspired with dovetailed carcass.

Drawer layout: fluid. Two full width drawers at the bottom. Another full width, but half(ish) in hieght, then a configuration of smaller drawers at the top of that. I'm gonna try to use the design techniques from "By Hand and Eye" to hone in on those drawer widths and heights while still being functional for storing my specific goodies.

I finally got the back pieces done, and want to move onto drawers now.

I'll start with the frames then after getting back into the DT groove, work on some half blinds to attach the fronts. I may run out of free time for a spell but I'm hoping I can have a nice string of hours to hone this part.


----------



## theoldfart

Gotcha, go with A


----------



## racerglen

A eh ! or aye aye..or


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Eh!


----------



## theoldfart

Ah!


----------



## terryR

Oh!


----------



## johnstoneb

A


----------



## johnstoneb

Took me a little longer than I thought to get started with the finish. I was told that when I retired I would be bore and want to go back to work. So far I haven't had time for work.

This is a picture with the first coat on and getting ready to sand it.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Bruce!

I found after retiring, everyone else thinks you have extra time, so you get extra tasks.


----------



## Buckethead

It does look fantastic, Bruce. I'm gonna have to wait to finish mine so it isn't compared to yours! #protip


----------



## johnstoneb

I finally finished my tool chest. Decided at the last that the lid needed something to help open it. I had to order another drawer pull that took a couple more days.
I am really happy with the way this came out. Fit and finish are the best I have done to date.


----------



## jmartel

Shiny. What'd you use for a finish?


----------



## johnstoneb

2 coats of amber shellac on the oak followed by about 5 coats of clear on everything.


----------



## Buckethead

Looks fantastic, Bruce! Have you posted it as a project?


----------



## Tugboater78

Bruce that chest looks awesome!


----------



## Airframer

Alright.. I am at a crossroads right now. I am setting up my new shop and need to focus on tool storage before any real work can get done in there. I have bounced from Cabinet plans to planning out an ATC build but now I am thinking DTC. Some of you have built both an ATC and a DTC and I'd like to hear which you prefer or does the combo work well together?


----------



## theoldfart

Eric I built both only because I take classes and need to bring my stuff with me. Everything in the Dutch came out of my ATC. I liked working out of the ATC; had no problems. If your not traveling I think the ATC is sufficient.


----------



## Airframer

Well…. It's back from the dead!










I was able to get the mis-cut rabbets fixed and the case back in one piece along with the first sliding dovetailed shelf. That gave me a chance to check that the saws will fit in the saw till section of the cabinet. I think it is finally starting to look like something now.


----------



## Lucasd2002

> Well…. It s back from the dead!


Your tool chest has cooling vents?


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, haven't seen that project in a few years. Glad you back at it.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Kevin.. It feels good to be back at it to be honest. This has haunted me ever since I put it to the side.

Your comment had me curious about just how long it has sat idle.. My last blog post about it which is when it got set aside was 11-14-2013!

For those who would like to catch up The Blog Series is here



> Your tool chest has cooling vents?
> 
> - Lucasd2002


Nope just tambour doors on the sides for saw till access. Cooling vents would be cool though lol.


----------



## Buckethead

Whelp. Upstaged again. I knew when I saw those dovetails in another thread, that you were on to something big. Excellent chest, Eric.

Here's a sneak peek of mine. Top drawers not completed. I just stuffed the faces in to get a glimpse.

Still some evening out to do, but I'm getting close to sanding and finishing. Maybe if I get enough time this week. I can't believe how much time I've spent on this little box.


----------



## woodcox

Looks like a solid recovery Eric. Is the shelf laminated or in two pieces? I just went through the build again and I'm happy to see you at it again. Any overall design considerations you've thought about during the hiatus?

Louvers are never cool v!v









My dream box would be an elephantitus version of this…








Massive trestles with more real estate in front of the upper case, maybe vise or two just for controversy. Sounds like an epic build for the smack-down thread though…pipe dreams for now.


----------



## ToddJB

Bucket, false modesty is a sin. That looks so badass. ZOMGz. That wood selection is perfect and the vertical divider was the right call. Gives it the right amount of contrast.


----------



## Airframer

That chest looks GREAT Bucket! I can't wait to see it finished!



> Looks like a solid recovery Eric. Is the shelf laminated or in two pieces? I just went through the build again and I m happy to see you at it again. Any overall design considerations you ve thought about during the hiatus?
> 
> - woodcox


The shelf is 2 pieces. I haven't decided yet if I will glue it up as one piece or leave it like it is. I think once in place it won't make much of a difference. No major design changes yet but I have a feeling it will evolve further as the build goes on. I tend to build without solid plans so things are pretty fluid lol (and sometimes costly that way too.)

Case in point… I discovered after cutting the sliding dovetail dados in the case that the top shelf is about an inch too high for my No8 to fit the way I wanted it to.. so this is the beginning of the fix for that..










I also got the bottom shelf in today. Next up is the drawer dividers then onto the doors.


----------



## Airframer

Did someone say double tambour?

Boom..



















Gonna give the whole back till area a coat of finish and button it up then get back to work on the front till area and doors.


----------



## knockknock

I was waiting to see how you were going to get those double tambour doors to by-pass each other, now I see it


----------



## Airframer

One door is finished.. getting finish lol. I need to have the doors and the till fully finished before the back is installed. I forgot to put "exit" channels for the doors into the grooves so I will have to install them with the back and just pray they never have to be removed for any reason (as they can't).


----------



## Airframer

More Tambour spam.. They are finished and installed.. I even made an action video for yous guys…


----------



## Tugboater78

Looking good AF!

I havent posted in here, but i reckon i should be.
but my chest is coming along.


----------



## Buckethead

Both are looking fantastic men. I haven't yet checked out the vid, Eric, but I'm dying to see how those tambour doors are put together.

My chest is basically finished, except I'm waiting on the knobs, which I ordered over a week ago. Should be here soon, but keeping my powder dry till they show up.

K. Checked it out, and they work great! But do you have any close ups of how you designed/built the doors themselves?


----------



## Buckethead

Whelp. Knobs showed up today:



After looking at this with the poly done, for bout a week now, I'm thinking the grain, dovetails and all make it too busy. In retrospect, the African mahogany is much more vibrant once finish us applied, and perhaps the dovetailed carcass is over the top. Add in the spalty, flecked oak drawer fronts, and it's kinda all over the place. Still, I'm happy with it, and the mahogany had several checks in it, so not a waste. If you.

First person to find all the checks in the wood, gets one (1) Internet.


----------



## jmartel

I only saw one check in picture #4 on the lower edge, just above Dovetail #2 in from the left side. It looks great. You should be happy with it.


----------



## Buckethead

Jspotter, you got it. I actually cracked that piece pretty bad when I banged errr… Fitted it together. The crack is just above and to the left of that check in the DT, which, oddly enough, did not happen during the banging. The other check is massive, and looks like the letter S. Right in the top of the chest. Plain as day, but I just didn't have the heart to cut it out. I could not have built the chest with the single piece of mahogany had I done so.

I could have, again in retrospect, forgone the dovetails, and done waterfall grain, which I think this piece of wood was better suited to. Live and learn. Since learning and improving dovetail skills was the impetus for this project, I'll take it as is.


----------



## jmartel

Interesting. I saw that S but thought it was a hair or something. Haven't seen a crack that shape before.

Either way, it's better than I can do. My dovetail attempts have cracked worse than that.


----------



## johnstoneb

I saw the S but thought it weas a blem that you had left for character like the paint. I would have never guessed a crack. I think it adds to the entire chest. The dovetails look good. The oak I used on my tool chest split out on the dovetails some. I spent a couple of hourssquaring up tearout and gluing in inserts. Once the finish was on you had to know they are there to see them. 
I think the dovetails look good on it.


----------



## Buckethead

There were several checks in the original rough piece. All were s shaped. The grain in this wood is cray cray, or in more scientific terms: cray².


----------



## Airframer

Progress.. both door box frames are dovetailed ready for the faces..


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^If you would have made it out of plywood, you'd be done by now.

lawlz.


----------



## johnstoneb

Good progress Eric. Those box style doors give you a bunch more storage.


----------



## Sanderguy777

I like Chris Schwarz's Anarchist's Tool Chest featured on Woodwright's shop. I wanted to build one, but I can't because I don't have the skills that I need to do it and, mainly, I could buy DeWalt's newest tool box for the same money as the wood that goes into Chris'.


----------



## Airframer

> I wanted to build one, but I can t because I don t have the skills that I need to do it …
> 
> - Sanderguy777


Don't let that stop you. I think a lot of folks would be surprised by what they can do if they were simply willing to be willing to screw something up for the sake of trying. Never let your perceived skill set get in your way..


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

He did a plan with rabbets and plywood, too.


----------



## bandit571

Maybe check out the Tool Chest #2 that I cobbled out of Reclaimed lumber ( almost all of it FREE)

Just simple Tongue and grooves, and a few screws….


----------



## Buckethead

> I like Chris Schwarz s Anarchist s Tool Chest featured on Woodwright s shop. I wanted to build one, but I can t because I don t have the skills that I need to do it and, mainly, I could buy DeWalt s newest tool box for the same money as the wood that goes into Chris .
> 
> - Sanderguy777


Also consider this: "free" wood is everywhere. Job sites, trash, businesses, pallets. It isn't really free, but close.

The drawer carcasses for my tool chest used to be leaf inserts for my neighbor's dining room table. Hard maple. She never used them, and kindly offered them to me when she saw me building my workbench. Drawer fronts, dunnage for steel pipes used in commercial fire sprinkler systems. The body was a board that cost me about $50, African mahogany. The cost difference in this vs having bought a gerstner machinists chest is huge. The gerstner would have had features that I might not have been ready to commit to, but it would not have hand cut dovetails, nor would I have gained the experience of doing them. Plus, the sense of accomplishment, despite my inexperience and lack of a proper plan.

I go out and look at my chest. Just to see it. I could have paid $700 for one that offered no attachment to me other than price paid.

There is great value in building your own, IMO.


----------



## johnstoneb

Don't let the perceived lack of skills stop you. The only way you get the skills is start. I try whenever possible to include something in my projects that I haven't done before. 
As Bucket said if I had bought a gerstner box I wouldn't go out to the shop just to open the top and or drawers. I go out there every day just do that before I do anything else in the shop.
Go for it.


----------



## terryR

...birch ply and rabbets…you guys talking about me again? 










Actually, The Schwarz built his 24 hour toolchest without rabbets, just butt joints inside and out. Screws and glue.

A simple toolchest is a great learning experience.


----------



## wormil

Rabbets are under rated with modern glue + screws/nails/pins. I've built a number of shop drawers that way and after 15+ years they are still going strong.


----------



## johnstoneb

I have a problem. I built that nice tool chest. Ihave no where to put it in my shop except on the floor. I think the solution is to build something on these to hold the top chest.










I don't have a shortage of tools to put in it.


----------



## woodcox

Gonna be cool to watch Bruce. Reclamation for materials again?


----------



## Buckethead

This has been my thinking too, Bruce, although my chest fits under my workbench.

A rolling base could house handsaws, larger planes, etc, and leave the more frequently used tools right at arms reach, but organized in the chest.


----------



## johnstoneb

That museum wood is pretty well gone. So might have to buy some. I have another project ahead of it. The owner of the local Woodcraft has a son getting married and he is having a picnic table building contest He is supplying the wood and hardware. 1st place is a $300 gift certificate. I am building one for that. That has to be done by the 1st of June. I have to get started on that.


----------



## pjped

terryR, that looks great!
I like rabbets more than a starving coyote…



























Saving my back:









One day I'll make this:


----------



## theoldfart

Pete, long time no hear. How are you?


----------



## Buckethead

That's a sweet setup, Pete! I think the pedestal with drawers is a must!

Plus…. Dem wheels doe


----------



## terryR

Yep, love Pete's chest. The panel and frame lid, bead on the dust seal, even the color! 

Definitely adding a base and wheels for mine, too…


----------



## pjped

Thanks guys!

Kevin, I changed jobs last June and have been working more and woodworking less 
I don't recommend a career change at 49!

terryR, I like the larger chamfers on your trim, and I think I'm going to take a plane to mine and increase the width of the chamfer flat one day soon… If I can remember where I put the paint


----------



## theoldfart

Pete, I did much the same a few years younger than you. The last change was in the past year, I retired!


----------



## Airframer

Boom.. one face panel ready for glue up.. one more to go then the doors can hang finally!










This was my first frame and raised panel door.. had fun with it.

I also made a mess lol..


----------



## johnstoneb

Eric looks good. What is the wood in the panel? The frame looks like fiddleback maple. That is really going to look nice when finished.


----------



## Airframer

The center panel is QS mahogany and yep.. the frame is some figured maple. I am chomping at the bit to get some finish on it and see how it pops lol.


----------



## Buckethead

Woah. Impressive Eric.


----------



## pjped

Man that mahogany looks GREAT!


----------



## Airframer

Second door face is ready for glue…



















Soooo close to being able to fit tools into it… just have hinges and drawers next..


----------



## knockknock

Your tool cabinet is coming together nicely!


----------



## bandit571

Not sure IF this qualifies as a "Dream Tool Box" but, it did need some work to get it back to working shape




























$2 yard sale find. Full of rusty things. Palm sander to get rid of most of the rust in and on the box. Added some Green Rustoleum Paint & Primer ( for now, until I get the right colour) And this Snap-On tool box might last a little longer. Previous Owner had added the little handle on the lid. Letting things dry for now. Anyone know what Snap-On used to paint the lettering with? White? Red? Not sure what Number box this is, even…or what set it held.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Looking excellent AF.


----------



## woodcox

My dream tool plAce may as well start with 12"-8/4 curly cherry.


----------



## CL810

Added a center finder and tramel points.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, ingenious! You are vewy cwever


----------



## DanKrager

+1 ^
DanK


----------



## brain7

Hi! Thanks for exciting topic! Currently I have a simple wooden toolbox ( I got it from my grandfather), but it's old enough. I would like to renovate it. So maybe I'll stole your idea . Hope to come up with something interesting.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, I squeezed my trammels into my saw till along with a square and my Starret square









However yours is prettier!


----------



## CL810

Thanks Kevin, but I don't know about the prettier part. I'm big believer in function over form and I really like the open access of your tool chest.

And btw, I couldn't find your Dutch tool chest in your projects. What'so up with that?


----------



## theoldfart

Uh, I didn't put it there. Not the best thing I've done. I'll put some pics together put it up, thanks for the motivation!


----------



## theoldfart

OK Andy, you shamed me into it


----------



## CL810

Congrats!


----------



## theoldfart

^ A first for me.


----------



## racerglen

Whoot, whoot, atta boy Kevin, lets go for top THREE !


----------



## Airframer

I got my doors hung on my cabinet today..










New bloggy with more details and pics


----------



## woodcox

Nice work guys^^^

Late night planing and cutting tenons to get the dry fits this AM.


----------



## DanKrager

I'm going to post two pictures, one here and one in another thread, just for fun to see if anyone can figure out what I'm doing. The pictures tell part of the story and their location (where posted) tells the other part. The 71 with a custom bit does a wonderful job of establishing a consistent depth for the second layer of the weave.








DanK


----------



## ToddJB

You're making a toolbox to hold your basket weavings! Easy


----------



## ToddJB

For real though, if you're building a chest where every piece will display this sort of detail - I will eagerly be watching.


----------



## Brit

No idea Dan, but you'll be finding those little chips around your workshop for years to come. LOL.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Tell him what he's won, Johnny!!!


----------



## knockknock

My guess is: Dan's making a chisel rack.

And I am waiting for woodcox to get farther along, I'm interested in what he is making too.


----------



## woodcox

starting with my take on this v. And then a cabinet atop, about 18"'deep, 40" or so tall to give wall oriented storage with a bank of additional drawers and tills. Think very nice potting bench. Certain tools with out their place is wearing thin. 









Not going with the cut out front and the top will over hang to mount vises or what ever. I need some localization of common efforts. Mostly hand tool storage with a little work surface.

Put them in the cramps with bamboo nails just this morning. Thinking about one or two stretchers now before on to the top.

Very nice dank, I'd hate to speculate which other threads you haunt..
My eyes go wonky following long patterns like that. Looks like fun though.


----------



## Airframer

No clue Dan but it will be spectacular when finished whatever it is!

I made my first drawer today..










More here for those following along.

Question for the group.. Where do you guys get your ring drawer pulls from? I see them on nearly all of the tool chests posted here but multiple Google searches have left me still hunting for the source.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Lee Valley is where mine came from.


----------



## woodcox

I picked up 12' of 4/4 curly cherry. Enough for the laminated stretcher, shelves and facing for plywood.









Frame dadoed and in the rough. There is an oak spine in 75% of the stretcher. LV wants thirty bones for 1" brass barrel nuts kit (4) with bolts(1/2"x6"). I'm going to make the same thing for maybe four bucks with the same materials, maybe cooler too.


----------



## woodcox

On with the potting bench mock up. Waiting for the postman to bring me some brass, I had some 5" bolts and washers in a coffee can. View of the barrel bolt holes. 









That moment when you have to double check available real estate. This is going to change how do things in the end, having a lot of what I need at hand. I misquoted the upper cabinet depth earlier, approximately 14" deep. Top laminated (63×26) will come from 8/4?









This thing is going to hold a ton of junk. Yeah!


----------



## Airframer

You are moving right along WC.. Lokin' good!

I spent most of the morning chasing my tail cutting the rest of the drawer sides and backs. First I didn't figure how much 1/2" poplar I needed and had to thickness more from 3/4". Then I cut all the backs out before I remembered that 3 out of the 5 drawers are different sizes lol. So after planing another scrap of poplar and cutting new drawer backs I finally got around to making another drawer. 2 out of 5 down… at this rate I should be done with them by September..


----------



## DanKrager

Ha Ha AF! Story of my life as a woodworker!

This is looking really noyce!  What goes in the drawers?

DanK


----------



## terryR

Drawers look fabulous, Eric!
Doesn't really matter how long it takes…you'll have to look at the cabinet for years to come.
Be proud of your efforts!


----------



## johnstoneb

Good job on the drawers, Eric.

WC Saw that bench in Woodsmith. I thought it would work really well for my rodmaking and flytying but don't have a place for it in the house. I will have to do some more rationalization to justify it That won't be too hard though. Will definitely be watching your build and take on it.


----------



## woodcox

Nice work Eric. Mahogany and maple look touchable. I wanna touch your box.

My dirty barrel nutz. 









Bruce>would be a great tying bench. It is big. Could build rods here too. It has a bigger footprint than a full size lathe. I saw it and wanted to crowd it with storage. I will have tills or divided bins on the top at the back, traditional wall cabinet hutch thing above. I should still have about 14"x64" of bench top left to work and stack stuff. Ooh! Lighting! I could have some light where I work. Sweet new development! I have a 6" face vice for the left and an assortment of little vintage smith type vises for the right. With a stool, it is all ready a crowd with my main bench. Messin with my chi! Bigger better though right?


----------



## terryR

^ dirty barrel nuts look great to me!
Much cooler than store-bought…
Gotta write that project down to remember.


----------



## Mosquito

I can't wait to get back to my tool chest… it's holding a bunch of computer parts that need to make their way back downstairs to the "mod room" after I finished my wife's computer. Tool chest kept the parts from getting dusty, so that bodes well for the tools once I get it done lol


----------



## Airframer

> Ha Ha AF! Story of my life as a woodworker!
> 
> This is looking really noyce! What goes in the drawers?
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


Story of mine as well. I seem to take more backward steps than forwards most of the time lol. I suppose that is how you learn what not to do so I don't mind too much.

The drawers will hold stuff. I haven't gone to the effort of specific planning of where everything will go just yet. I have a general plan but it will change a few times along the way I am sure.


----------



## Airframer

Then there were 5…










Bloggy here


----------



## DanKrager

Finally! Got past the 90% barrier. Ya know, it takes a long time even for lacquer to dry when it's under water (well 90% plus humidity is nearly that). So, three coats later… A tool chest for the 25° chisels.



















DanK


----------



## CL810

Oh my Dan! Incredible work! You've raised the bar for sure with this work.

What are your thoughts on leaving the design raised.


----------



## racerglen

Now that's a chisel box to like, to like very much, NICE job Dan !


----------



## pjped

Beautiful work there Dan, well done!


----------



## ToddJB

Incredible, Dan


----------



## theoldfart

Well done Dan, like the raised sides easy open.


----------



## terryR

Very impressive, Dan!
Even more so since you formed the patterns by hand.
Cannot wait for more photos on the Project page?


----------



## Buckethead

HOLY MACKEREL THAT IS INCREDIBLE DAN I HAD TO GO ALL CAPS NO PUNCTUATION TO EXPRESS MY AMAZEMENT ANT THE FABULOSITY OF YOUR CREATION


----------



## DanKrager

Thank you all. It was fun. I hadn't thought about making it a project.
DanK


----------



## lateralus819

Work in progress. Did the pegs today. The hardest part of the pegs is getting them all seated evenly. I went to clamp a side down face first and pushed one in flush lol. Oops. Might remove it and do a new one.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, Dan. You are definitely 'Hero' worthy. Most talented woodworker I know. Again, wow…


----------



## Airframer

WOW Dan.. just.. wow..

While it pales in comparison to that work of art.. I finished up the drawer fronts today..



















They are not perfect in any way but I am happy with how they turned out at least.

I also have some forged pulls on their way from Israel of all places.


----------



## DanKrager

AF, that's not slouch work you've got there, man. That is a drool worth chest! You're not done and it's already outstanding!
DanK


----------



## Buckethead

AF, Lat, some excellent work on both counts. If you guys all post these projects the same day…. Gonna make it hard on the other projects posted to get that coveted top three action.

I need to but more tools to justify a Dutchie, a cabinet and a new box. ONE OF THESE DAYS IM GONNA BUILD SOMETHING NOT TOOL/SHOP RELATED


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks Bucket. Mine will probably be a bit longer. I work slowly lol. I over think a lot of steps to avoid any mishaps.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Wow Dan!

Nice Eric.


----------



## CopperTree

I guess this is my main tool chest, kinda big and mobile but it holds 6000 lbs of tools. I rotate things between here and my home shop depending on the project. The big machines always stay in my shop but I have the tools for virtually every trade, and that takes up a lot of space. A few creature comforts for morning coffee, hot lunch, and cold drinks too. I do seem to need two of every hand tool though as my trailer stays on site and I still need them in the shop.


----------



## bandit571

Looks great.

Now on a less grander scale….need to design a small, carry-round cabinet, ala "Handy-Andy". Seems I might have a few items to toss into it…









Just a Basic Set…..

Needs to be set up on one edge, and then opened up like a book. Inside the "book" would be most if not all of the above. May change a few items ( brace & bits for an eggbeater & bits in the handle) Saw may change. The plane is a #3, the block plane will be a tuned up Buck Brothers.

Will be trying to build this "Igor's Tool Kit" and maybe donate it…...Might be worth a try at least….


----------



## mramseyISU

Here's my entry from a while back.


----------



## ToddJB

Hadn't seen this one before. You did a great job. The hardware fits perfect with the rest of the cabinet. Great job.


----------



## RGtools

It was great to look through these. I especially liked the mobile box by Copper, keep it up!


----------



## Tugboater78

Thread popped back up in view, another kick in the rear that i need to get my deutch chest finished, its currently topless. Most of the tools are inside though, and parts for some tills as well.

Ill take some pics soon and maybe show some progress.


----------



## theoldfart

Hey Ryan, how are you? Anything new in the shop?


----------



## RGtools

A few things actually. I need to take pictures of my new parts storage because that is spiffy. Mostly working on the agricultural side of my property as of late, but have done several quick and dirty projects around the place. In the near future I might have some time to make some real furniture, thank goodness. I need bookshelves in a bad way (2000+ book collection…about 1000 storage capacity).

Thanks for asking.


----------



## theoldfart

Sounds productive to me, looking forward to a few pics here and there.


----------



## Tugboater78

Need dvd and book shelves but in middle of kitchen cabinet build.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

RG, good to see you again! Looking forward to anything you have to share, for sure!

Another noted (related to toolboxes), I'm really considering a fun build: A replica Stanley #801, like the one Patrick had on the List this month. I've seen several in pics and posts over the years, and I really like the form. I have no idea about the dimensions, that's the sticker, but I'll WAG based on some of the things I'd like to put in one.

Not urgent, just 'on the list' at this point.


----------



## duckmilk

> Thread popped back up in view, another kick in the rear that i need to get my deutch chest finished, its currently topless. Most of the tools are inside though, and parts for some tills as well.
> 
> Ill take some pics soon and maybe show some progress.
> 
> - Tugboater78


What's wrong with topless?

Just saw this interesting box on Dallas CL. Opens up several ways. No dimensions given though.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/tls/5117811620.html


----------



## DLK

That box reminds of some jewelry boxes I have seen.


----------



## RGtools

Parts are tools to in a way.


----------



## bandit571

May not be a Tool box of my dreams…..but I am willing to bet it was someone's dream come true..









Wasn't anything fancy, just an old, black plastic tool box. Had to pile a Basic Tool Kit of hand tools into it









It also had a tray to fill up, and these were some of it









Box was closed up, and delivered to RTC IND of Logan County,OH. There it will hopefully be a way to teach people with disabilities a trade?

I think I found a use for them old plastic tool boxes…..


----------



## theoldfart

Your a good man Bandit, way to go.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ A hearty 'Second' to that motion.


----------



## woodcox

Robin Hood status confirmed there bandit.

Some progress lately, edging is finally on. I need to decide on a finish soon. I want the bench frame and cases finished before installation and drawers started. The bench top may be last at my rate of decision.

I did get all 20 maple drawer sides rough cut to length and ready for resawing.










Ed: home brew edge clamps worked great!


----------



## theoldfart

Finishing touches on the Dutch chest. Put on a coat of Briwax Ebony with 0000 steel wool, came out perfect. I didn't like the milk paint finish even with a top coat of Danish Oil.


----------



## racerglen

Lookin' good Kevin ! Nice work m' man !


----------



## pjped

Looks great Kevin, nice to see a green one!

I see you have the Rigid spindle sander, how do you like it? Thinking about getting one.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Glen and Pete.

I do like the sander. No issues and I've had it for two years. The only draw back is the dust. Unless you make a custom shroud the dust is every where.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Kevin, that looks really good!

I've only recently turned onto the whole 'wax rub out' thing, and I really like the way it works.

Dutchie is a fine build, gotta feel good to have a finish on it that you like.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, the difference is substantial and I was surprised. I will continue to do it on a couple of other things I've built.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Working on a #801 to go with a recent arrival to the shop:










A SW #888! Came without tools, I'll be filling over time.


----------



## theoldfart

How'd the hell did you find one that fast? And a SW to boot? Serious rust fu there.


----------



## Tugboater78

> Finishing touches on the Dutch chest. Put on a coat of Briwax Ebony with 0000 steel wool, came out perfect. I didn t like the milk paint finish even with a top coat of Danish Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - theoldfart


Love it, hopefully i can get mine to paintable stage and be a bigger twin.

Been putting off doin breadboards for my top. And need to find a latch.

Nice score smitty!


----------



## CL810

Kevin the chest looks great.


----------



## ToddJB

> How d the hell did you find one that fast? And a SW to boot? Serious rust fu there.
> 
> - theoldfart


No joke, give the man 3 days and he'd find Hoffa.


----------



## woodcox

I resawed the 8 1/2" drawer sides on the tablesaw, then ripped them apart by hand. Most tedious thing I've done with the ts, I really need to make an out feed table for that thing. Cool to watch this maple go wonky then come pretty far back to flat after a few days before machining. 









20 drawer sides milled and ready. 









Saving up to find some choice cherry fronts.


----------



## DanKrager

In the same expensive antique store near the Keen Kutter miter box was this at about $55. More stuff than I've ever seen and I gave a pretty complete one (from my childhood) to my grandchildren. 









DanK


----------



## Tugboater78

Sweet Dan, thats a real nice find!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice Dan. Looks pretty similar to the one I gave my daughter.


----------



## RGtools

Love that last pic. Big Smiles.


----------



## terryR

Well…I'm pretty sure it was TOF that tried to talk me out of french fitting inside my toolchest a couple of years ago.

He's a smart fellow!

This is a shot of the false floor of my chest which USED to have a dozen or so planes fit into it…










This past week, I finally began building tills for the upper section of the chest; and after placing in the first till, I immediately noticed a major problem! Since my planes were french fit perpendicular to long axis of the chest, each had to be lifted and then rotated 90 degrees in order to be removed past the upper till. This meant a lot of wasted vertical space was needed.

So, change of plans! I removed everything from the interior and started over!

First, tossing the false floor and french fitting. Next, constructing a simple grid in the base to store planes in the proper orientation. Grid is from oak, assembled dry with dadoes (for easy changes!). I kept the lil boxes previously made for specialty planes and irons, now the floor of my chest looks like…










These changes allowed me to re-size the up-coming tills so that I'll have an extra 3" of depth. That should add up to a fair amount of space!

One DT'd till so far.










I'm on a roll now! Should be able to complete the next 2 tills pretty soon, and add another coat of paint. There's still a bit of yellow that needs to be hidden.


----------



## CL810

Terry, that looks great!


----------



## Buckethead

Agreed. It looks fantastic, Terry. Your work is always meticulous.


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, could you retro fit your French fit into a wall hung plane till?


----------



## lateralus819

Finished finally! Woohoo.


----------



## Boatman53

That is beautiful! What are the dimensions? I want to build a smaller box. Well done.
Jim


----------



## DanKrager

That is drool worthy gorgeous, Lat. Does this mean that these tools are dedicated to G&G type stuff only?  
DanK


----------



## terryR

> Terry, could you retro fit your French fit into a wall hung plane till?
> 
> - ToddJB


I'll certainly use it for something!

Awesome work, lat!


----------



## Buckethead

HOLY EDITORS CHOICE, LAT!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks all. I posted a project on it . Plus some blogs from before. More pics on both.


----------



## theoldfart

Kevin, that is one gorgeous tool chest maybe even art gallery worthy. You deserve editors choice on this one.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, after all the grief I gave you about fitting tool chests I broke all those rules ohm my Dutch chest so no worries man.


----------



## Buckethead

Some great shots over at your project post, lat. One for the ages.

CHECK IT OUT YO
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/176298


----------



## terryR

Kevin, no worries here. 
If I had finished my toolchest 2 years ago, I would've sacrificed the vertical space and left my frenchy crap. Luckily, 
i've learned from all youz guyz since then!

One thing I've learned is that I'll need more than one chest…damn enabler buddies…


----------



## lateralus819

I just wanted a small one for small tools that get lost easily. Plus my chisels. I have a large tool cabinet that I used for larger planes. I couldn't see myself working out of a chest with all my tools.

This was merely a "prototype" to see if it would be something I'd like to do for a large chest for my son.


----------



## terryR

So, I guess I'm still improving at cutting DT's without gaps? Although these are certainly acceptable to me! Time to focus on spacing since I think 3 larger tails would look better than my 5. Next build…

Hey, are these the same ring pulls you guys use? Any special treatment for the inside of the till to cover up the metal from the pull?










Thanks!


----------



## bandit571

I used an old dovetial router bit as a template for these…









Seemed to do ok…


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, DT's look awesome. As for the rings in my machinist tool box they are exposed.


----------



## duckmilk

Terry, I was under the impression that you clenched the ring spike like you would a nail.

Those dt's look great. Time to focus on spacing since I think 3 larger tails would look better than my 5. Next build… Fewer opportunities for gaps to appear also.


----------



## Mosquito

I usually opt for larger tails because then I have fewer dovetails to cut lol


----------



## terryR

Thanks, guys!
Oh yeah, fewer tails means fewer cuts.
So obvious I missed that! 










A small shelf for chisels; not sure I'll like it? But it seems to offer more storage…and doesn't block access to the base.


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, your chisel selection is impressive.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Your DT's are awesome Terry.


----------



## johnstoneb

Here is a toolbox to drool on.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/177394


----------



## Buckethead

OMG TERRY!

I'm dumbfounded. I can usually muster some sort of sentence to describe how much I like a build, but this one is too sublime for words.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, that chest looks a mile deep! Layout looks a bit more efficient, what's next?


----------



## terryR

Thanks a ton, everyone!

Really, my work isn't so spectacular, I just think toolchests rank up there with luscious tool porn. There's a bunch of little steps, and the whole looks amazing with all the brass and steel polished. 

Kevin, it must be four feet deep or so. I can barely roll it on the existing 4" casters! Still 2 main tills to build…and more color for the exterior.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That tool chest looks positively cavernous! And the chisel shelf is awesome! Well done!


----------



## jmartel

I like that chisel shelf.


----------



## Tugboater78

Posted in sots thread earlier, figured id share my partial completion here.

Needs a bit of paint and some better organization but i finally put a lid on it. Been working out of it for months.


----------



## CL810

Awesome work Terry! I like the chisel rack as well, wish I had more rack space myself, so I say good call!

Justin the chest looks super. Looking forward to the project posting.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Updated the project post to layout the contents of my toolchest. I think Don and Kevin asked, and after giving it some though, figured it might be interesting.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I guess a link would have been nice…


----------



## bearkatwood

Hoping to have it's big brother done next spring to replace my wall plane till.


----------



## CL810

Wow Brian! Love the drawers for your planes. Having a hard time imagining a big brother to this box. Joinery looks great as well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Looks great, Brian. Your work is outstanding!


----------



## bearkatwood

The top two drawers ride on rails above the plane box and hold small goodies. The bottom two drawers hold my chisels and rasps/files. The plane crib is hidden away under the top two drawers. I have been drawing and designing my wall mounted tool cabinet for about three months now and will begin construction in October/November. It is going to be walnut and curly maple (the small box is walnut and myrtle) and it will be INSANE!! That is about all I can say. It is going to be the craziest build I have done yet if it turns out like the picture I have drawn up.


----------



## johnstoneb

Nice toolbox, Brian. The dovetails and box joints really look good. I like the way the tote locks the drawers in place when moving.


----------



## terryR

Sweet toolbox, Brian!
Nicely constructed!


----------



## Buckethead

Allow me to add to the praise for that tool box, Brian. It's an absolute original with perfect design and execution. Well done.


----------



## RGtools

Brian that is a great design. Any chance we could see the pics of the box to be?

Also what's in the bag?


----------



## pjped

Wow Brian, Terry, Tugboater78 and lateralus819 - those are all amazing!! been away for a while and come back to see these that make me want to get back in the shop today!

-Pete


----------



## bearkatwood

Pics of the box to be, well they are currently classified. If it turns out like I have drawn, you will see it, maybe on the cover. I will just say that is going to take everything I have learned to pull it off. I will be using the golden ratio, the classic orders to lay it out with an eye pleasing design. The front is going to be a bit art nouveau carved with a tree motif. Should be pretty. 
The bag holds all my saws. You can get them on Ebay for $6. Screamin deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bucket-Boss-Saw-Scabbard-NEW-99114-/331229256492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1ecd5b2c
They hold about 3-4 saws if you squish an extra one in. I bought my first one from Ron Bontz, but then I found them on ebay and got a couple more. In the picture I have my everyday saws I use. I like the veritas, they are very comfy. I am working on my own version of a lie-nielsen in the bottom of the pic. I don't have one and I have run out of money buying toys, I mean tools so I am making my own. There are also a couple more there I made.


----------



## woodcox

Very nice work there Brian, that box looks very useful.


----------



## theoldfart

Brian, really like those saw bags. Gonna have to try one for my full size saws.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Pete!

Yep, those bags look like a great temporary till…bet an old pair of jeans will hold 2 saws at least.


----------



## RGtools

Thanks for the pics of the bag I may have to find those. Looking forward to the "Area 51" tree box.


----------



## theoldfart

Saw this project a few days ago, worth a look


----------



## terryR

Searched a few builds here, but haven't seen what I'm in need of…

What sort of handle do you guys have on your toolchest's lid? my fingernails are getting tired!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry,
My English chest









My Dutch chest


----------



## bearkatwood

Nice handle on the dutch.


----------



## theoldfart

Lee Valley


----------



## terryR

No, no, no…I need a handle for the lid.


----------



## Mosquito

Kevin, he meant lid.

On my (in progress) dutch tool chest, the lid overhangs the front/sides of the chest, so I use that. Don't have an English chest, so don't have any experience there, unfortunately.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This has worked well for me as a 'handle,' but isn't good if you have a mortise lock in place?

http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/41003


----------



## donwilwol

> Searched a few builds here, but haven t seen what I m in need of…
> 
> What sort of handle do you guys have on your toolchest s lid? my fingernails are getting tired!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


I think this will help Terry http://m.sephora.com/product/P382714?skuId=1559111&om_mmc=ppc-GG&mkwid=s4EzFR3JE&pcrid=71645668719&pdv=t&site=_search&country_switch=&lang=en&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4NmvBRCRp_yu2bzal4YBEiQAWfjpJse3oPmXNZylAN7VcplDvS9TjdfB2N0VKhbVvcQHC7QaAn3b8P8HAQ


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Smitty, no lock yet, but that gives me ideas.

Don, i may try that, too!


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, I did an internet search and can't find a decent handle type grab for a top. You probably going to have to do a blacksmith design.


----------



## theoldfart

Oh lid, now I get it (slaps head) I did this









Just a cove milled in the lid/chest joint


----------



## terryR

Wow, that's simple! I was thinking of a wooden piece added on.
Thanks OF!

Don, I didn't see anything via google either. weird.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, if you use tailed router you want a core box bit (hope I'm using the right term). I'll check mine to see what size I used.


----------



## terryR

No worries, Kevin. I still don't own a router.
got a chisel and sanding block, though…


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I used a curved gouge to make one on my saw till cover in the ATC I built.


















Hope this helps


----------



## terryR

Yep! thanks for helping me to see a more simple solution!


----------



## woodcox

I don't know if this has been seen here or not but I thought this would be of interest to those of you who stoop.

http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2015/03/making-simple-lid-stay.html?m=1


----------



## terryR

Cool idea, thanks woodcox! Still no stay or stop on my chest…using the electrical panel on the wall.

Anybody having troubles with OCD this week? Not me! Top till finished and in place before the middle. 










Hey, anyone paint their cast iron hardware? Received a handful of ring pulls from LV, but one is rusty, and I don't want to clean it twice.


----------



## jmartel

If it's rusty, you could wire brush it and then spray with with some T-9 or even WD-40 and it should stay rust free for a long time.


----------



## ToddJB

+1 to T-9. Goes on all my hardware after I clean it before being reinstalled.


----------



## terryR

Sounds good…thanks, gents!


----------



## Mosquito

Here's another one for Smitty 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-sweetheart-tool-box-888-good-solid-org-1920s-/191696438432?hash=item2ca1ff84a0


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oh, that's nice!


----------



## bandit571

THAT may get turned into the next Dungeon Shop Project…...IF I can find enough of the right wood…..

Is there a size listing, as to what sizes make up the box….L….W….H..???


----------



## terryR

Getting there…slowly but surely…










Wish my DT's were the same size, but I cut the lower till first, and 5 tails is just too many. IMO 3 look much better.


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, wish my tills looked that good. Did you clinch the pulls?


----------



## Mosquito

Sweet job Terry, those look great!


----------



## DanKrager

Terry, I hesitate to bring this up, but I gotta ask. Why did you orient the DT like that?

I'm asking because normally the DT are oriented to prevent the strain of opening and closing from tearing the drawer apart. These are really beautiful drawers and I agree that the angled part of the DT is prettier and more interesting. So, just for looks?

DanK


----------



## wormil

Nice looking drawers Terry, but I'm afraid your dovetails are backwards.


----------



## ToddJB

With tight DTs and modern glue, do you really think this will cause a functional issue? It's been my experience that any structural failure I've had has been wood breaking, not the glued joint.


----------



## terryR

Yep, pulls are clinched. Easier than I feared!










Yep, DT's are backwards for looks. I was thinking of adding a dowel vertically through the joints, but hope the glue is strong enough? They are fairly tight even without glue.


----------



## DanKrager

Structurally you'll be fine for your lifetime and maybe some descendants. Given our penchant to question everything, can't you just imagine the remarks of someone who discovers this in the antique store of the distant future? 

DanK


----------



## wormil

Probably fine. My shop drawers are pinned rabbets, built boxes that way too, some of those drawers are over 15 years old and still going strong. I don't baby them either.


----------



## terryR

I guess if the tills fail, I can re-cut my DT's to all match each other from some gorgeous curly wood!
In 30 years!
LOL!


----------



## jmartel

> With tight DTs and modern glue, do you really think this will cause a functional issue? It s been my experience that any structural failure I ve had has been wood breaking, not the glued joint.
> 
> - ToddJB


Even with the old glue, you didn't have glue failures for a super long time. Like, over a hundred years. I just stress destructive tested some hide glue joints. Just simple edge glue up panels, and none of them failed on the glue line.


----------



## DLK

If you have seen Matthais's experiments you learn that essentially all the strength comes from amount of glue surface.
Indeed finger joints with modern glue become stronger then dovetail joints.


----------



## wormil

We get obsessed with things needing to be as strong as possible without regard to being "strong enough".


----------



## Brit

Impressive work Terry. I agree that 3 DTs look better and I like the pulls you used.


----------



## DLK

> We get obsessed with things needing to be as strong as possible without regard to being "strong enough".
> 
> - Rick M.


I certainly agree.


----------



## bearkatwood

Guilty as well. I always have gone with the motto " when in doubt, built it stout" and I am finding that there is a certain elegance to slimming things down a bit.


----------



## bandit571

Most things I build are by Helferstouten.AG

Picked a D-23 with readable etch today…$2

Picked an Auburn Tool Co. 1-1/2" wide, skewed rebate, wood bodied plane…$10

Tool box looks good…and green.

Anyone ever hear of a drawknife brand called "EasyCut"? 8" wide, no curve to it, looks like something Sweeney Todd the barber would use…


----------



## CL810

True. Most times we go to 3/4" wood by default when 3/8" or 1/2" would be more than adequate.



> ... and I am finding that there is a certain elegance to slimming things down a bit.
> 
> - bearkatwood


----------



## Tugboater78




----------



## woodcox

Any opinions on either of these two totes as far as their box construction?


















I need one for around the house adventures. I think I have chosen a couple favorite examples and I think either style would work fine. The first one is from Mario Rodriguez, the second from Lj bobasaurus.

Mario tenoned the long sides into grooves. Bobasaurus floated the bottom into a groove.

Just kind of a preference poll if you will.


----------



## johnstoneb

Great looking box, Tug.

WC I think a combination of the two would be better. Higher sides on the top one with the sliding till of the bottom.


----------



## Tugboater78

I watched the other day, a video on YouTube by popular woodworking of a tote/stool/mini bench that I put on that list of things I could find some use for.


----------



## terryR

I'd vote for the latter.
like both, but Bobasaurus' design is more pleasing, and the DT's joining the side are easy to enjoy.


----------



## 1moe

Hers my tool box.


----------



## wormil

I prefer the one by Rodriguez, it's bigger than it looks in that picture. Bob's is nice but I don't like the sliding tray and is smaller.


----------



## DanKrager

1moe, oh the SHAME of metal tool boxes for woodworking tools! LOL! At least things are organized. Welcome to the slippery slope where all of us are sliding into a black hole of oblivion, throwing money to the dust, and flailing wildly to keep SWMBO from finding out what we spend on tools!

I like the sliding tray as long as it doesn't slip to one end and thus dump stuff by shifting the balance like the loose load it could be. I'd be tempted to build several trays to fill the length…then they can't slide until you take one out.

DanK


----------



## 1moe

Dan, by trade im an automotive mechanic. Thats why I have a big metal tool box.
Thank you for the welcome.


----------



## terryR

Nothing wrong with a metal chest of drawers…all storage is welcome and used!
Mine is a Grizzly and I love it.

The wooden chest is more of a throwback to vintage times. The dust seal around the top prevents sawdust from entering, and therefore slows rust. Also, some hand tools just don't fit into mechanic's drawers…planes are the biggest culprit.

Finally got all the yellow undercoat covered up…










...already experiencing 'Finished Project Sadness' instead of joy at seeing this chest come to a completed end. Any advice? Start a Dutchy?


----------



## theoldfart

Terry,
1. yes to the Dutch, in fact one big one small!

2. Like the finger grooves.

3. In fact it's all good.


----------



## Tugboater78

Dutch is the way to go! You can even put a beer opening device on the front and call it a pull…


----------



## theoldfart

Now THAT ^ is pure genius! Bravo Tug


----------



## woodcox

Ha! Awesome tug.


----------



## donwilwol

Tug for the idea of the year!


----------



## Slyy

Haha Justin didn't notice the lid-popper in your other pics. One great thing about the hand tools is its a bit easier to drink a beer or two working when you don't have 10k RPM blades spinning near your fingers!


----------



## CL810

Tug is a genius.


----------



## DaddyZ

Very cool tug


----------



## Buckethead

+1 on the genius of Tug


----------



## Tugboater78

So this was one thing i intended to put on the chest from the beginning. Bad thing was that i has lost track of it till this evening as i was cleaning up around the shop. Ive had this little brass plate aince i was around 14 years old. Parents had some belts made for my brothers and I for Christmas. The belt hadnt fit me for years but i kept it all this time.


















Inset flush…









Jake i didnt have the opener on till this morning, as i found it hidden away as well and found it. Was another idea i had during the build.


----------



## CL810

This chest keeps getting cooler all the time.


----------



## Tugboater78

My latch should arrive tomorrow, so I will have to install it tomorrow evening.


----------



## terryR

> This chest keeps getting cooler all the time.
> 
> - CL810


+1 to that!
even the color seems to get better.


----------



## ToddJB

Love it, Tug. Great job.


----------



## AnthonyReed

So awesome Tug.


----------



## bearkatwood




----------



## bandit571

Der Schwarz just posted the "12 Rules of a Tool Chest" in his PW blog…....I think I broke about half of them….









More of a "Hope Chest" ( hope everything fits chest)









Might get a bit crowded in there?









And I do have a second one in the shop…









But..when I am sawing dovetails at the leg vise…I can simply sit down and work at eye level..









Kind of crowded in there, so…









Most of the iron planes go here, just to keep an eye on them….and save digging for them.


----------



## racerglen

Very organized Bandit ! Like my shop, gotta have someplace to put stuff or you'll never find anything or trip over it.
You've made the dungeon a great shop.


----------



## terryR

Maybe too much distressing?


----------



## Hammerthumb

Perfect! ^


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Looks good to my eye! Are you stressing too much over distressing, perhaps?


----------



## CL810

Looks god to me as well. Terry. Very nice!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, that's a great idea gluing the hammer to the lid. When your my age it'll remind you what's in the box.


----------



## woodcox

Lol. Now where the hell is my Snuggie!









Looking good Terry.


----------



## thedude50

I have a half finished anarchists tool chest I will get it done soon but my personal projects come last I have customers to keep happy. I don't know if I will like it or not but its for my hand tools i HAVE THREE BIG OFFICE CABINETS i USE FOR HAND HELD POWER TOOLS. Still working on setting up the new shop so much to do so little time to do it.


----------



## thedude50

> Maybe too much distressing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


Looks just like the one I am building I wont distress mine it will happen to old fashion way but I do like the look.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, gang.
Less stressed now.


----------



## terryR

Kevin, I had to glue that hammer in place to keep me from stacking whatever is in my arms on top of the chest. It works! LOL!


----------



## donwilwol

Looks good Terry. The hammer handle needs some paint droppings through.


----------



## Tugboater78

Lookin good Terry, ill let my het distressed on its own, already has dents and dings from moving it about and such. Though i didnt put a bright color under my top coat of dark green, so things wont show up as bad anyway, unless i really wail on it and expose fresh wood.

Got latch installed on it, i posted in sots thread last week i think


----------



## Brit

Smitty is the king of distressing Terry, so if he approves it must be good.


----------



## RGtools

Holy cow some of the posts here make me happy. On a day like today I really needed it.

I have been spending too much time away from the shop. That is changing today.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan good to see you here. Hope it continues.


----------



## RGtools

Ditto. Life has been a…well mess, for the past few years. Today is no different but I think I will have some more time on my hands to work a bit…so that is the silver lining.


----------



## theoldfart

Sorry to hear, I've been dealing with elderly family and dementia since late winter. I know the WTF of life too. Hang in there and hang around, missed your voice in this thread.


----------



## Slyy

Terry, the chest looks fabulous! Gotta restrain that urge to stack, one thing I hate about open horizontal surfaces. The struggle is real friend.

Ryan, hope all is going well best as they can. Glad to see you stop by!


----------



## RGtools

I have dealt with the same issue for years Kevin. If you need to rant, send me a PM. Just maintain your sense of humor above all costs.

Things will be OK Jake. It just takes the right mindset and a hell of a lot of work. I will be around this forum more frequently again, which is a nice upside.


----------



## theoldfart

The LOML just made the emperor new clothes









Monogramed no less









And holes for the hands









Last time I took it to class in the rain it spotted and i had to rewax it. Too much work!

Next up will be a mobile base, the crates don't travel well


----------



## wormil

A rain jacket for the tool box, ingenious.


----------



## ToddJB

Hows it going to get "patina" with that nice cover?


----------



## theoldfart

Tod, already has nicks, gouges and dirty fingers leaving marks. The raincoat is to preserve the patina.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Now you need to Scotchgard the fabric! Ack, a slippery slope!


----------



## theoldfart

Will that give it patina?


----------



## knockknock

> ... Next up will be a mobile base, the crates don t travel well
> - theoldfart


I would hope so. Any toolbox with it's own personalized blanket, deserves to sleep on something better than milk crates.


----------



## theoldfart

I like your logic in that statement, I'm gonna do it!


----------



## terryR

Pretty fancy, Kevin!
Color-matching nonetheless…


----------



## theoldfart

we are fashionable aren't we. why am I speaking in the third person? need alcohol. does it go with prednisone?


----------



## CL810

^ What could go wrong?


----------



## theoldfart

hic


----------



## Tugboater78

> ... Next up will be a mobile base, the crates don t travel well
> - theoldfart
> I would hope so. Any toolbox with it s own personalized blanket, deserves to sleep on something better than milk crates.
> 
> - knockknock


Yeah.. i made a cute little base for mine..


----------



## racerglen

Never noticed any problems with mixing my Prednizone Kevin..but after a certain point don't notice much…...


----------



## DLK

> ... Next up will be a mobile base, the crates don t travel well
> - theoldfart
> I would hope so. Any toolbox with it s own personalized blanket, deserves to sleep on something better than milk crates.
> 
> - knockknock


Blanket? I though it was a monogramed blazer and now the toolbox needs a limo with Kevin as the driver.


----------



## theoldfart

Just like driving miss daisy


----------



## DLK

> Just like driving miss daisy
> 
> - theoldfart


I was going to say that but couldn't work in a good pun on daisy.


----------



## theoldfart

Yea, it's a bit hazy for me too.

Edit: just went for the rhyme, puns are hard!


----------



## RGtools

Kevin, I love the cover. That is a great idea.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Ryan. Drawing up a mobile base for it next.


----------



## RGtools

^you have a sickness, but it's one I can get on board with.


----------



## theoldfart

Ryan, I'm fine. The rest of the world is out of wack. There is no down side to my condition; make my own chests, improve my skills, have something that will last several times longer than purchased goods, low personal risk because of hand tools, and I love what I do.


----------



## CL810

> The rest of the world is out of wack. There is no down side to my condition;......... and I love what I do.
> 
> - theoldfart


Amen brother!


----------



## summerfi

^ Now that is an eloquent statement right there


----------



## RGtools

Well Put Kevin.


----------



## terryR

You guys are kidding, right?

You don't like plastic handles on tools? Or cutting tools made from unknown metals? Husky workbenches that fold out of the way for the SUV to park?

We should all be the same, think the same thoughts, enjoy the same foods, watch whatever programming geeks decide for TV, and use cheaply built tools.

Those vintage tools are for old guys that don't really build anything.

Just look at this new, advanced power planer!


----------



## terryR

Oh the horror!


----------



## terryR

Toolchest done!


----------



## theoldfart

And folks it's a HOME RUN, outa' the park!

Love it Terry. Doesn't look like any wasted real estate in there.

Well done and reflects a love of the craft.


----------



## woodcox

That is beautiful Terry!


----------



## knockknock

Great job Terry, I like the rings on the sliding drawers.


----------



## donwilwol

Terry's done it again!


----------



## racerglen

A beauty Terry !


----------



## summerfi

Beautiful job Terry!


----------



## terryR

Thanks!
The ATC is so friggin huge, I need more tools!
LOL!


----------



## theoldfart

So build a Dutch Chest as well, thats all!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Amazing work, Terry! Looks insanely great!


----------



## summerfi

Build a tool chest, fill it up with vintage tools. Build another tool chest, fill it up with vintage tools. Such is the life of a normal LJ.


----------



## donwilwol

> Build a tool chest, fill it up with vintage tools. Build another tool chest, fill it up with vintage tools. Such is the life of a normal LJ.
> 
> - summerfi


Well said.


----------



## CL810

Oh my, my!!!!



> Toolchest done!
> 
> - terryR


----------



## DanKrager

Nice nice chest, Terry! I don't have a hankering for one, but I appreciate them nevertheless. My dad's old chest is somewhere in the family I think…
DanK


----------



## Buckethead

Beautiful, Terry. Such exquisite detail. Perfection!


----------



## theoldfart

I think Bob's on to something there.


----------



## bandit571

> Build a tool chest, fill it up with vintage tools. Build another tool chest, fill it up with vintage tools. Such is the life of a normal LJ.
> 
> - summerfi


Been there…done that….number three might be on the way


----------



## Boatman53

Great job on that chest Terry. I like it.
Jim


----------



## Tugboater78

> So build a Dutch Chest as well, thats all!
> 
> - theoldfart


I second that motion!

Looks great Terry


----------



## terryR

Dutchy Done!










LOL!


----------



## theoldfart

So what's the third chest going to be?


----------



## Tugboater78

Japanese

Gerstner?


----------



## bandit571

Underhill??


----------



## jmartel

Studley style?


----------



## terryR

Maybe something freestyle?


----------



## theoldfart

I'd hopp on that one


----------



## racerglen

Terry, you're going crazy in the shop ! Wow, what a lot of great stuff pouring out these days.


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, stellar work, Sir!

And that dutchy pic shows off parts of the shop I've never seen. That jointer in the background appears to be beautiful


----------



## woodcox

Snake in the grass you are. Nice work man.


----------



## terryR

Todd, no hardwood flooring in my steel shop…
guess I've been busted! LOL!


----------



## ToddJB

> Todd, no hardwood flooring in my steel shop…
> guess I ve been busted! LOL!
> 
> - terryR


Ha. My dreams are dashed.


----------



## wormil

Build this one.


----------



## terryR

That's a cool design!

All you guys with a a dutchy,where'd ya get the plans?
I couldn't build a square without a drawing!


----------



## theoldfart

Schwartz in Popular Woodworking. The article has both the full size and the small plans. I'll get you the issue # when I get home. I could loan you my copy if you want.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Kevin. I have a prescription to PW, so maybe I have the issue? sure don't remember it…

If I cannot stumble on it, expect a PM….


----------



## theoldfart

Will do


----------



## terryR

Oct 2013, got it!
Thank you, kind sir!

I'll have to be different than you and paint mine black.


----------



## theoldfart

No colors anymore I want it painted black…..


----------



## Tugboater78

> Oct 2013, got it!
> Thank you, kind sir!
> 
> I ll have to be different than you and paint mine black.
> 
> - terryR


Mine is black…

Under the green


----------



## Mosquito

Mine is poplar…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Mine is "tbd"...


----------



## theoldfart

so Moss is popular and Smitty is too bad to be determined :-0


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Is it a sign of 'curmudgeoness' that I have started a list of things I won't build? Between issues storing these things and a self-imposed (highly subjective) limit on bench appliances / fixtures, a dutchy is on thing I'm strongly resisting as 'never gonna happen.' There are many here on LJs that are simply beautiful, though, and I love looking at them.


----------



## Mosquito

To be honest, I'm not sure why I built (ok, started building) my dutch tool chest, other than the fact that it looked like fun and I wanted to. Only time will tell if I find any real practicality to it or not in my shop use


----------



## bandit571

Maybe I can improve on this one???









Maybe??









This one already has a home, though…









Maybe build a traveling one??


----------



## stefang

My dream toolbox looks empty. I hate to leave my shop to do any woodworking.


----------



## Tugboater78

> Is it a sign of curmudgeoness that I have started a list of things I won t build? Between issues storing these things and a self-imposed (highly subjective) limit on bench appliances / fixtures, a dutchy is on thing I m strongly resisting as never gonna happen. There are many here on LJs that are simply beautiful, though, and I love looking at them.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


No real need for one iwould say, you already got great storage!

I had to build something, constant Midwest humidity/temp changes and having to clean surface rust off mytools every time i get home was getting tiresome. Shop has poor resistance to the changes but can regulate a chest easier.

If you ever did make one, for ********************s and giggles, we all know it would blow the rest of ours out of the water.

Hoping to go visit a local blacksmith next week to see about making me some handles for mine.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I sure get the midwest humidity! Fortunate to have an insulated space with a good floor that keeps excess moisture somewhat at bay. Would love AC, maybe next year.

Seriously, The Dutch chests posted here are incredible, and I wouldn't do the form justice at all. Started a Stanley #801 box and can't hit critical mass, bar in my head set pretty high so it sits.

NEW TOPIC: Kiss really sucks as a real rock band, just sayin'. "You were made for loving me," really? Sounds like bad Blondie crossed with Barry Gibb on a bad hair day…

Carry on…


----------



## Buckethead

SMITTY WATCH YOUR FILTHY MOUTH THATS THE 80s KISS TRYNA GET MAINSTREAM BUX 70s KISS IS THE REAL KISS DONT MAKE ME LINK DETROIT ROCK CITY


----------



## Buckethead

THATS IT IM LINKING DETROIT ROCK CITY U MADE ME DO THIS


----------



## theoldfart

I've been taking my Dutch to class for the last five weeks and it works great. My English chest has been in use for the last four years and no complaints there as well. Each is doing what it was designed for. Dust and mosture are my issues as well. They also help restrain my latent collector urge!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Bucket, the Monkees is to the Beatles like Kiss is to Alice Cooper.


----------



## terryR

Smitty, you would build a fine dutchy…if you wanted. No doubts!

TOF, how can you claim to be restrained in collecting tools with so many toolchests? 
I'll bet you really have another chest in the closet in yer bedroom!!!

edit…I think I saw KISS in concert back in the early 80's? Cannot remember…


----------



## theoldfart

In the interest of full disclosure, only six or seven saws are in the chests. Another twenty or so are on the wall. SO a saw chest may be in the works.


----------



## terryR

Been playing with the idea of a saw chest or hutch, too.
I'd need till after till after till for my saw problem.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

There may be 40+ saws in tge shop now. Damn things reproduce. I'm about to put a pile together and sell it on the 'bay…


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, Terry, I just can't pass up on saws from the late 19th and early 20th century priced at a couple of dollars each. Worst case they are fodder for my education in sharpening and woodworking.


----------



## terryR

Smitty, wow, if they are reproducing lay a couple of Disston 12's together in a quiet location for a week!

New meaning to New Old Stock? 

Kevin, I'm bad about collecting saws, too. I purchased a handful of 'practice' plates…but haven't spent more than 4 hours trying to learn how to sharpen! Guess I inherited Irons' Disease from me Mom…always keeping too may irons in the fire.


----------



## DLK

I don't know Terry if this is a good idea. Remember we saw a video of what happened when Spear and Jacksons were left it a quiet spot.


----------



## pjped

Terry that looks awesome! What an interior.


----------



## RGtools

Wow Terry, you have knocked out some really nice work. I love your chisel well.

Smitty, don't we all have this issue for one or two things. Mine is ANY layout tool. I have an ungodly amount of squares, folding rules, angle finders, and other do-dads.

Thank god there is a place like lumberjocks to unload some of that stuff, or you could never get your shop cleaned up


----------



## theoldfart

unload, heresy I say!


----------



## johnstoneb

This spring I made a take off on FW's essentiol toolbox and found I didn't have anyplace in my shop to put it so had to build a lower rollaway box for it. Finally finished it.










Here it is with both boxes together










The carcase on both boxes is red oak with amber shellac. The drawers are maple with Bubinga fronts with clear shellac. Hand cut dovetails and mortise and tenon on carcase, drawers are machine cut dovetails.


----------



## CL810

Came across this last night and now I can't remember where. (Kev understands.). Thought it worth sharing.


----------



## ToddJB

That's a looker!


----------



## DLK

Irk. Every time I figure out how I'll build storage for my bench planes you guys post another intriguing picture.
Now I have rethink it all again and … my work bench still remains covered with tools.


----------



## bandit571

Work in progress…









SLOW progress….


----------



## CL810

LOL Don! But I don't know why you think having a chest will change that. ;-)



> ... my work bench still remains covered with tools.
> 
> - Combo Prof


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, pretty cool pic. Nicely stocked as well! Not sure I agree with drawers in the top section, I'm constantly in the top of mine for marking and measuring stuff.

Bandit, progress is being made in spite of your back and the like. BE HAPPY, NO WORRIES!


----------



## DLK

> LOL Don! But I don t know why you think having a chest will change that. ;-)
> 
> ... my work bench still remains covered with tools.
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> - CL810


I just want to build something again, but there are these tools everywhere …..


----------



## theoldfart

I hear a new chest in the making. Go Don(no pressure!)


----------



## DLK

Maybe, but I think it will be a wall cabinet.


----------



## theoldfart

I think we have a new convert.


----------



## bandit571

Still slower than the speed of smell?









Beveled the bottom panel, chopped two dados…..









Intend to install a pair of screws to hold the handle..


----------



## theoldfart

This looks kinda' cool. Something to think about.


----------



## johnstoneb

Kevin

You need to build another box with drawers to compare and see which you like beat.


----------



## theoldfart

^ trouble maker! Yet….........maybe I should …..........naw….........hmmmmmmmm


----------



## DLK

> This looks kinda cool. Something to think about.
> 
> - theoldfart


Now that I think I will build ….. someday.


----------



## Tugboater78

Bandit you making me want to build a tote, oh my.. must get bench done before anything else!!

Been bouncing around in head of building a smaller chest on feet, portable, and able to serve as an auxillery saw bench. In the future of course.


----------



## CL810

.....Must have…..need…..want one….must have…..



> This looks kinda cool. Something to think about.
> 
> - theoldfart


----------



## Boatman53

Here you go Tug, made by Scott Grandstaff.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/sawhorse2.jpg.

Jim


----------



## ToddJB

That is cool, Jim. DanK's is what popped in my head


----------



## Boatman53

I have been an admirer of Scott's work for a long time. Build some drawers under what you linked and throw a vise on the end for fun and you end up with what Scott built.
Jim


----------



## Buckethead

Bandit I'd like some details about those beveled dove tails. Tricksie.


----------



## bandit571

Optical illusion? Here is an end with the tails cut.









Base line follows the angled cut, but the pins are square to the base line. When the ends are assembled it is a 90 degree corner. Same with the way the tails are cut. They are square to the base line. Base line follows the angle, but stays straight, no angles are cut in the tails. They come out square to the line.

Clear as mud??


----------



## RGtools

^actually yes. That is clear. Awesome too.


----------



## Buckethead

Very nice, bandit! Perhaps I could give those a go.


----------



## Tugboater78

> Here you go Tug, made by Scott Grandstaff.
> 
> http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/sawhorse2.jpg.
> 
> Jim
> 
> - Boatman53


That is def interesting, if i was going that route though, i would probably go with something similar to one recently built on popwoods "I can build that" videos


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That saw bench with vise is very interesting. Did Scott write or blog on what exactly he did there and why? Looks taller that a Schwarz-based version, but is still shorter than his bench.

NM, found it: http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/sawhorses.htm


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I've been dreaming of a Stanley #801 for awhile now, and it may be close to reality…


----------



## theoldfart

Vewy stelthy of you Smitty. A commission no doubt!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nope, just somethinh to work on while the finish cures on those other pieces. Finding suitable hinges is a challenge though.


----------



## theoldfart

What do they look like?


----------



## summerfi

Smitty, a talented guy like yourself could potentially make a set of hinges out of sheet brass to match this original. I've made hinges before, so it can be done. Or if you google brass T hinge you'll see several options that aren't too far off.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ that's what i need!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This looks awesome…










But the bottom wing's screws need to extend lower, or further down from the hinge pin to make it work.










Pics on the web lead to hinges that are either out of stock, discontinued, too thick, crazy expensive, not the right size, etc. etc. etc… Frustrating. I've wasted (because it's been unsuccessful) hours looking.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Getting close to needing a solution though. Maybe soldering dummy screw heads into the hinge above, and adding one screw hole / screw below those to do the actual holding.


----------



## summerfi

Maybe this is the answer Smitty.
http://www.dellacivetta.org/lorenzo/techniques/strap-hinges/


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Thanks, Bob. I'll have to give that serious consideration, but I hate working metal. Hate it. Argh.


----------



## DLK

Can you bend the hinge you show so that it works like the hinge Bob shows in the link?

Or…maybe… no hinge, make the door a lid???


----------



## donwilwol

Put the hing inside the door so it shows when the door is open.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Don K, placement is the same between the two. Maybe I could reform the hinge and get it to work? Or, like yoda says, go with an inside mount. Not sure they'd open flat and full that way, though.


----------



## DanKrager

Smitty, would you consider putting a taper along the outer edge pf lid, kinda like a raised panel or extra wide chamfer as wide as the hinge is long? This would drop the screw holes into the other side of the joint, lighten the box a bit, and add a point of interest…as in "why the taper?" The way it looks it wouldn't have to be a knife edge, but it would be pretty thin…enough thinner to worry about screw penetration in the upper leaf. If you didn't like the hip roof look, then taper the whole lid piece like a wooden shingle. You have hand planes, yes? 

You could also dado the edge of the lid to "lower" it a little. If it gets too thin for screw, consider rivets with washers on the underside.

DanK


----------



## bearkatwood

So I just wrote a new blog entry about my shop remodel and released my plans on my "Area 51" cabinet and bench that I have been keeping quiet. It is going to be a monumental build for me and I have made some crazy stuff. It took a bit to figure out the wildly shaped door front logistics, but I think I have it. I hope you all follow along as it should be a fun build.



















http://lumberjocks.com/bearkatwood/blog/71178

Take care all,


----------



## DLK

> Don K, placement is the same between the two. Maybe I could reform the hinge and get it to work? Or, like yoda says, go with an inside mount. Not sure they d open flat and full that way, though.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Yes I see it now. Don't know how I missed that.


----------



## ToddJB

Brian, if the builds come out anywhere near the drawings they will be truly epic.


----------



## CL810

Smitty, I had similar dilemma with my "Dutch" chest. Obviously my lid arrangement is much different.

Backside view.









Inside view


----------



## DLK

It seems I have learned a good lesson here. Get the hardware first, then make the chest to fit the hardware.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dado (slight) is original. So I'll be doing that. Will try to close the gap that way…


----------



## duckmilk

> This looks awesome…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the bottom wing s screws need to extend lower, or further down from the hinge pin to make it work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics on the web lead to hinges that are either out of stock, discontinued, too thick, crazy expensive, not the right size, etc. etc. etc… Frustrating. I ve wasted (because it s been unsuccessful) hours looking.
> 
> - SmittyCabinetshop


Smitty, Lorenzo's instructions show a different placement of the hinge: "Center the barrel of the hinge where your lid and chest meet. Mark where you will need to bend it with an awl."_










If you moved your hinge barrel down, would you be able to then get 2 screws in the edge of the lid and one in the top?
"


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I will check that option as well, thanks!

Picked up screws today, and will have to go on record as saying ther's not enough "in-store" selection of stotted screws available anymore!


----------



## theoldfart

^ that's for damn sure. Anytime i need a couple I buy a box, sooner or later we won't be able to find anything but torx and kregg stuff.


----------



## ToddJB

> Picked up screws today, and will have to go on record as saying ther s not enough "in-store" selection of stotted screws available anymore!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


This is true. My local Rockler and Woodcraft have pathetic selections. An ACE a few blocks from me has the best around, but still usually have to restore to the internet. Ebay seems to be the best (cheapest) option.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Can't stand the look of phillips on finished products. Especially period-type pieces.

Not a snob, when screws are called for it's all good. But phillips just belongs with drywall screws, and nothing else.


----------



## DLK

> I will check that option as well, thanks!
> 
> Picked up screws today, and will have to go on record as saying ther s not enough "in-store" selection of stotted screws available anymore!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Wow…. you have a store that has sooted screws. I'm flabbergasted.


----------



## DLK

> If you moved your hinge barrel down, would you be able to then get 2 screws in the edge of the lid and one in the top?
> 
> - duckmilk





> I will check that option as well, thanks!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


But thats what I first said to do and you rejected it. (See #2840, #2842.) At least that is what I mean for you to do. :-(


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

A couple of those slide out drawers in Menard's had chrome, brass and steel. Pan heads, round heads and flush. Sized ranges not great, but from #6 through #10.


----------



## Mosquito

I ended up buying slot head screws online too, and agree that slotted looks better on finished pieces as well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This image of the #801 has the buckle down at the seam… Might be the way to go!


----------



## DanKrager

Sorry guys. I have most of the world's slotted screws, I think. I inherited more screws than most hardware stores have from a mechanical music box maker. It took me a week to sort them out and put them in drawers.

If you need a particular size and cant find them, let me know how many you need.

DanK


----------



## wormil

I toss every straight slotted screw I find. They are a silly abomination that never should have existed, much like small dogs. (kidding, sort of, maybe not)


----------



## DanKrager

I hate them too, and don't use them every chance I get. Just couldn't throw that many away.
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dan, I may have to come visit the slotted screw store!

And the slotted bolt head looks great on your Cap'n Eddie Parting Took, Rick. Just saying'.

May have solved the hinge challenge. This is the backside of the steel hinges I have from Lee Valley:










That 'doubler' material is bad. Dremel-type tool cuts it away.










Now it sits much closer to 'compliance.'










A slight rabbeting of the lid to bring the edge thinner, and we just may be getting there.

More to come, likely as a blog post so I can find it later!


----------



## DanKrager

Smitty, you did see my suggestion about the bevel edge? It might have gotten buried in the rush?

You're welcome any time.

DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I did, and it's the next measure to be taken.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Design panel: this look good / right to your eye?


----------



## Boatman53

They seem to be just a tad large….. In my opinion.
Jim


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I agree, especially the bottoms. And when compared to these.










I need to cut the bottoms / reshape.


----------



## ToddJB

I like em. But if you're going to do the bottoms might as well reshape the top too. There's enough material to get close to the OG. Then bend your henge too.


----------



## wormil

> And the slotted bolt head looks great on your Cap n Eddie Parting Took, Rick. Just saying .
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Don't worry, the parting tool itself is overdue for the trash can. Those edger blades are junk steel. No I get what you're saying about them looking better but I don't like them in wood screws because the heads strip out easily.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

They are a challenge, absolutely. But to me anyway, worth the hassle because of the aesthetic.

Just giggin' ya. You have very nice projects, Rick. A great eye for style.

Todd, I may reshape. Spread them a bit further towards the outside and thought about finishes the box may get that will make the hinges much less noticeable, and haven't decided for sure. I need to get two more hinges in, and then we'll see. I am gaining a whole new respect for our Box Builder LJ Brethren though…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> So I just wrote a new blog entry about my shop remodel and released my plans on my "Area 51" cabinet and bench that I have been keeping quiet. It is going to be a monumental build for me and I have made some crazy stuff. It took a bit to figure out the wildly shaped door front logistics, but I think I have it. I hope you all follow along as it should be a fun build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/bearkatwood/blog/71178
> 
> Take care all,
> 
> - bearkatwood


Uh yes, please do build that! You have a fantastic eye for design.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Sliding tray side still needs hinges.


----------



## ToddJB

Looking good. Decided to go with the hinges as is?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yep. Any finish will help them not stand out as much, I think. Could also build a second one a little different.


----------



## DLK

I like them. Let them stand out to be admired.


----------



## summerfi

Great job on that toolbox Smitty. Now you need an antique looking "Smitty" label to put on it.


----------



## terryR

And the Smitty needs to be incorporated into a heart design.


----------



## donwilwol

That's pretty sweet. Or should I say that's pretty SW.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Awesome.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

More hinges on order so I can finish. Oh, and some more screws and flat hooks to add. Still deciding on an actual finish to apply. Carcase is palletwood, lids are white oak scrap from the original folding table top. Likely will be a project post.

Thanks for all the input, it really helped!

Oh, and building boxes makes a mess.


----------



## Mosquito

> Oh, and building b̶o̶x̶e̶s̶ makes a mess.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Fixed your typo


----------



## terryR

Want badly!


----------



## theoldfart

^Me too, missed one on CL for a hundred bucks a couple of months ago


----------



## summerfi

Here you go Smitty. Put this on the lid.


----------



## theoldfart

Oh yea, right on!


----------



## DanKrager

Terry, a word of caution: Those drawers are part of a much larger almost endless system of office equipment that includes stackable file drawers,, book shelves, cabinet space, bases with casters etc. A collectors item in their own right. Might be perfect for storing and displaying tools dust free…Where are you gonna stop? 

Go gitem, man.

DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Love it, Bob!

Ditto to what Dan says!


----------



## Tugboater78

> Want badly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


got Tom Fidgins book and eyeballing card catalog in it..

Smitty, toolbox lookin sexy


----------



## donwilwol

> Want badly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


That's a $1000 piece around here!


----------



## terryR

Dan, I'll try to stop with FIVE file cabinets of various sizes…maybe six? or seven?

Looks to be worth a grand to everyone; especially interior decorators!

May have to build?


----------



## lateralus819

Question to those of you who've built Schwarz' anarchist chest dealy.

Are their plans available for this unit?

Also-Surprise surprise. I need to build a proper "chest". My first one was just a bit of fun to have a different project and experiment.

i was thinking since this will be a roll-able unit maybe using Maple? I have a chance to get some for $2.50/bf.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Lat, if you're serious, consider buying the Anarchist's Tool Chest book. If that's not appealing or not interesting in the least, Schwarz has written several blogs addressing the typical dimensions and Rules for chest dimensions.


----------



## lateralus819

What specifically does the book cover?

I'm very interested in building this. With the recent acquisition of my grandfather's tool's, I need a better solution than I currently have.


----------



## summerfi

I'm toying with the idea of building a tool chest too. It won't happen soon, if at all, but the idea is bumping around in my brain. At this point I'm thinking about building a reproduction of the Seaton chest. I'm hoping to get the Seaton book for Christmas. Anyone have any thoughts on the pros and cons of a Seaton chest vs. the Schwarz anarchist?


----------



## CL810

Bob, a guy wrote about building the Seton chest over at WK Fine Tools. Here.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Contents of a well rounded chest in one part, with general dimensions and building it in the other. Don't know anything about the Seaton chest, sorry. And on another note, the #801 is nearer to completion.


----------



## summerfi

Thanks Andy. I've read that article, and I guess that's what got me interested. What I'd like to build I think would technically be called an English cabinet maker's chest. Some of them got pretty fancy, and that's what I'd like to attempt. I'd like to have a set of plans, but I don't know if any exist. I haven't seen Schwarz' book, and I'm really not sure if the anarchist chest is just another name for an English style chest, or what the difference is between it and a cabinet maker's chest. Here's an image of the Seaton book I'm hoping to get.


----------



## bkseitz

Wow, all of these are so cool…color me green. Well maybe someday I'll get to that level


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Sliding, open trays/tills vs. the drawer-filled cabinet insert of the Seaton chest is a key difference. Both of English descent.


----------



## bandit571

Not sure where mine falls into, category-wise…









Didn't feel like doing all them dovetails like Das Schwarz did…. Had room for a bigger saw till, this way..


----------



## theoldfart

Kevin, I built my ATC from the first article that Schwarz wrote about the chest. Most of the dimensions you need are in the article. I'll get you the date of the PW when I get home.


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty, looking great, have you landed on a finish?

Terry, I love these apothecary style cabinets, but I can't figure out what type of items would fit well in this style of cabinet that wouldn't be better organized in another style of drawer. Though I would love to be proven wrong, because the style is right up my alley. What do you intend on storing in it?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Todd, thanks. It's decided to be one of two things: A reddish, kinda walnut stain to come close to the #880 example I have (which is actually walnut, btw, and this one is palletwood pine w/ oak doors); OR painted to closely resemble my toolchest (blueish, greenish).

EDIT: And, what Todd said WRT the Seaton style being somewhat restrictive in what would (can) fit in all the drawers vs. what you want to put in it.


----------



## lateralus819

That Seaton chest is a thing of beauty. Has me thinking now! A lot of veneer work though.


----------



## theoldfart

Just remember with a fitted chest like that or Studleys there is no flexibility for changes. I only have a few tools with their own fittings in mu ATC, two router planes and two saws. A bit more on the Dutch chest but they will accommodate tool changes, chisel rack, saw rack and the like.


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks Kev. I have my Greene and Greene chest I'll continue to use for my joinery tools. I'll put everything else in the new chest.

I figured the expensive ones can stay in the GG chest. The new one will be for odds and ends. Gamps tools, my saws, random stuff. Most of my 4.5 collection etc.


----------



## lateralus819

I started designing a chest with the dimensions of the Seaton chest.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10//toolchest.pdf

I REALLY love the aesthetics of the Seaton. I love making tools that are just as much fun to look at as they are to use.

I couldn't see putting a lot of time into this for it to not. Not to mention the fact that we spend thousands on good tools but skimp on what actually protects them.

Will see where this leads me. I have lots of time!


----------



## summerfi

I hear ya Lat. Have you seen this page?


----------



## lateralus819

I have now. Thank you Sir! Bookmarked.

I'm excited. Thanks for sharing.

I've been in talks with a co-worker who runs a small milling operation.

He said he has a bunch of 7/8" hard maple for 2.50/bf.

Might be what I use since it will roll.


----------



## terryR

Todd, I sorta chose the apothecary style based on looks…didn't consider what it would store. LOL!

But, I 've made the drawers a bit over 12" long so they will hold foot long brass rods, and other material I use for pins, rulers, auger bits, dividers, etc. Gonna make wooden brakets to hold labels on the outside of the drawers?

And, I'm building one layer at a time; gonna stack multiple layers up as I complete them. The next layer only has TWO drawers for different sized tools. Dunno how many drawers will be in the 3rd layer…or how many layers! 

Biggest lesson learned from my ATC build…make everything as versatile as possible!


----------



## DanKrager

> Biggest lesson learned from my ATC build…make everything as versatile as possible!
> - terryR


Why do we have to get this old to learn this? Finally…evidence that someone else has figured it out! "Things change" is NOT a difficult concept. I'm in love with modularity, interchangeability, and multifunction.

Rant mostly over.
DanK


----------



## Mosquito

But if you do that, it's harder to justify building another one since you can't change the first one ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

So says the 45 collector soon to be chest collector


----------



## Mosquito

lol Yes sir, gotta have a landing space for all the #45s!


----------



## DanKrager

Point well taken, Mos. 
DanK


----------



## terryR

Mos, you're not unloading parts, are you? 
Nah, you don't live in Arkansas…

on EBay now:









First layer for tool drawers ready for paint…3/4" oak ply and pine…










...ordering some Lexington Green milk paint now! 
Do I need a base coat of black milk paint, or any paint will suffice?


----------



## terryR

And, you guys that have built small drawers, what's the thinnest material I can use but retain some strength? 1/4"?


----------



## JADobson

How small are you talking Terry? I just built a 3" x 4" drawer for a lap desk with 1/4" sides and bottom and it seems bulletproof. But it's pretty small.


----------



## Mosquito

haha, holding tightly to my parts at the moment 

Though I do have some tools I should sell…


----------



## johnstoneb

I think 6" or less you probably could go with 1/8 bb ply. I usually use 1/4" but larger drawers also.


----------



## terryR

LOL, Mos.

James, about 3×5" drawers here…Thanks!


----------



## terryR

thanks, Bruce. Headed to town…guess I'll buy what they offer. 1/4 or 1/8.
or both!


----------



## Mosquito

I haven't made any drawers yet, but for my computer cases I use 1/8" plywood for most of them. For both counter top trays I've made I used 1/8" plywood for the bottoms of those with no issues yet. Haven't used less than 1/2" sides, but the smallest one was about 14×20, so it was more a scale thing than anything. I wouldn't think 1/8" would be too much of an issue for 3×5 drawers, boxes are fairly strong once they've got the bottom in place


----------



## jmartel

I don't think 1/8" would be enough. I'd do 1/4" just to be safe. Just based off of the experience I had with 1/8" ply, it's a little more bendy than you would want for drawer sides.


----------



## bearkatwood

If you guys haven't seen my blog posts, I have been in the midst of a big shop remodel and I am building three cabinets and a bench. It is going along well, take a look.
http://lumberjocks.com/bearkatwood/blog/71714


----------



## terryR

DAMN!
awesome.


----------



## DLK

Terry, I would think 1/8 luan would be fine. However I like to buy AC plywood at half the thickness I want and glue it back to back to get the right thickness. I find this to be stronger and to not warp. So for your boxes, I might be tempted to buy 1/8" and glue back to back panels to make 1/4". Turn them so that the backs have orthogonal running grain.


----------



## jmartel

Damn is right.


----------



## CB_Cohick

> Terry, I would think 1/8 luan would be fine. However I like to buy AC plywood at half the thickness I want and glue it back to back to get the right thickness. I find this to be stronger and to not warp. So for your boxes, I might be tempted to buy 1/8" and glue back to back panels to make 1/4". Turn them so that the backs have orthogonal running grain.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Depending on the purpose of the material, I can see this being a handy trick. Thanks for the idea!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nothing that approaches the quality or craetivity shown lately in this thread, but here's the #801 interpretation tonight:


----------



## donwilwol

Well….I suggest you send that thing to me Smitty and try harder next time.

I like it.


----------



## DLK

> Nothing that approaches the quality or* craetivity* shown lately in this thread, but here s the #801 interpretation tonight:
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Looks like crave-a-tivity to me. Looks great I hope it finds it way under someones tree.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice ! It all paid off..


----------



## BigRedKnothead

This guy stole my idea….and possible my tools.


----------



## putty

Nice little box Smitty, I love the hinges!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

You have full sets of hand stiched rasps, and all sizes of mortising chisel? You have too many tools to store effectively, Red, better send those to me while you plan out the cabinet.


----------



## johnstoneb

Initation is the best form of flattery?

I have built that cabinet and seen a number of others and none have been the same. Fine Woodworking deserves some kudos for those plans being so easy to adapt to personal needs.


----------



## terryR

Toolbox looks great. Smitty! Love the wood selected for the top.

I'm having a difficult time seeing that guy's build for all the luscious tools! LOL!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Thanks for the feedback, Fellas. Glad it's this far, but there's much more to do if it's to be done closer to right… Zinc screws need to be aged, all hardware pulled for finishing, then there's the actual finish to be applied. Haven't decided, but it's likely a dark stain on the way that comes closer to the #888's walnut finish vs. the painted finish I was considering.

This box ought to have it's own blog.


----------



## yuridichesky

Smitty, the tool box turned out very stylish. I'd like to see the picture with you holding this box in your hand, must be very classy and old-fashioned in a good way.

Here's my latest tool-storage related item in the shop: Japanese saws rack.


----------



## racerglen

Another beaut Yuri. I think you're encouraging/enabling Smitty to dress up, a costumed shot in his shop with the #801. Although he apparently has to age both it and himself first..


----------



## CL810

Yuri, did you enclose your porch/veranda?


----------



## summerfi

Has anyone ever seen a picture of Smitty? Are we sure he even exists?

Yuri, you're doing some fine work.


----------



## yuridichesky

> Yuri, did you enclose your porch/veranda?
> 
> - CL810


Yes, Andy, my shop is a porch enclosed with windows and insulated so it's warm enough even for winter.


----------



## theoldfart

I can vouch for Smitty's existence, actually met the guy. Same goes for DanK.


----------



## bearkatwood

Just slapped a coat of finish on the case of the tool cabinet.



















I goofed around yesterday making a skecthup model of it.



















It is getting a set of doors on the front with the tree design and getting carved all to heck. The bottom cubbies will be for drawers and I am making a set of modular rails for the back to hang things on.
Should be a big week. I will have a few blog posts about it.
Have a great day.


----------



## bearkatwood

yuridichesky,
I really like the way you have the eastern saws hanging. I have been trying to figure out how I would hang mine and I didn't want to drill a hole in the handle, I might try it your way. Looks great.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> You have full sets of hand stiched rasps, and all sizes of mortising chisel? You have too many tools to store effectively, Red, better send those to me while you plan out the cabinet.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Nah, I don't have the rasps or carving tools. But he doesn't have the coco.

bearkat- we're all following along. Quite a design and build you've got going. Your tool storage might make my french cleats old news;-)


----------



## bearkatwood

I would like to see them cleats you speakin' of


----------



## lateralus819

Hey Bob- I know you said you were thinking of building a Seaton chest.

I found the plans on Popular woodworking and made a Sketchup model of it. If you're interested I can send it to you.


----------



## summerfi

I'm pretty much illiterate with Sketchup, Lat, but it would be nice to have anyway. Looks like you did a fine job. Do you have a link to the plans on PW?


----------



## lateralus819

Could use mine as a visual reference. Its SUPER easy to navigate I can show you what you'd need to know.

All the components break apart into individual items too.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/benjamin_seatons_tool_chest/2

Scroll to the bottom, it has the links for the PDF as it was in the magazine. He say's it's modified to suit the "modern day powertools". I'm not sure how much it deviates from the original.


----------



## bearkatwood

What is PW? That chest is amazing.


----------



## CL810

Popular Woodworking


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> I would like to see them cleats you speakin of
> 
> - bearkatwood




I jest because it's probably the simplest project I've posted, but people really seem to like it. I've gotten tons of pms and emails from people who saw it here and on pinterest. People just love trickin out their shops.

Obviously I like my shop to be aesthetically pleasing too, but I don't have the eye for design you possess. That cleat wall built to my skill level at the time. If I were building it today, the tills would have more dovetails and such. Still thinking about building a wall cabinet to place in the center.


----------



## lateralus819

Build a chest. Wuss.


----------



## RGtools

Great work being done in here. BearKat, that is going to be an awesome looking suite. I think it was Frank Klaus who pointed out that a good workbench is one of the best calling cards you can have because it's the only piece of furniture you get to keep. I think you have taken that idea to a whole different level.


----------



## bearkatwood

In the summer 1978 issue of FWW, Tage Frid wrote about tool cabinets.
"Why bother making a tool cabinet when a crate with shelves nailed in would hold the tools? I believe if a person wants to make a living as a woodworker and furniture designer, a well-designed and executed tool cabinet is very important. It's a pleasure to have a beautiful tool cabinet, where the tools are properly arranged and easy to find. And when a potential customer comes into the shop and sees a nice cabinet, half the selling job is done right there." 
While I can count on one hand the number of clients that have come into my shop requesting a piece it will still be very nice for me to have and I agree with Klaus's statement as well. I am going to be a spoiled little tick


----------



## Tugboater78

I have a few things in the mail that I need for a final fdesign but have a sawtill in the planning stage. Also have hardware ordered for future kerfing plane/ framesaw combo which I may need made, to help in the design process, which will lead to a card catalog or Roy underhill's nail cabinet.

All after I get a legvice on my bench so I can post it as a finished project.

Brian your cabinet/tills are going to be something inspiring when done.


----------



## bandit571

One out of two planes has been cleaned up. 









And made some shavings









What is left of the "Japanning" is Brown in colour








Ohio Tool Co. No. 035…
Sooo, when the paint arrives, I'll paint the iron works, and add a finish to the woodworks.. 
need to clean the other $0.50 plane up…..


----------



## yuridichesky

Found some unused space about 11" wide and 16" deep under the bench just below wagon vise and decided to put there another tool chest of drawers.










There will be 5 drawers at the top and some open space at the bottom to store bench hooks and alike.

The drawers will be full-extension old-fashioned way without any fancy hardware.


----------



## racerglen

Looking good Yuri, great to find more space in our small shops isn't it !


----------



## johnstoneb

Looking nice Yuri. One thing about the old-fashioned drawer slide is they don't take up any room like the modern do.


----------



## yuridichesky

Glen, Bruce-thank you!

Modern slides have their pros and cons, in this particular case the drawers would be way too deep it they go up to the back of the chest, plus any additional hardware would make drawers yet more narrow, so this old-fashioned design is a win-win from either side


----------



## terryR

Nice, Yuri! What's the wood?

Now I'll be embarrassed to show the tool drawers I'm completing! LOL!


----------



## yuridichesky

Terry, thanks!

The carcass is laminated pine. I found some pretty decent panels that need just very little treatment before finishing.

The drawers are from larch. I recently bought couple of very nice 7-foot long larch boards that looked absolutely stunning, not a single nut and very straight grain. Not to mention beautiful reddish color. It's pure joy to saw, plane and chisel, but totally evil for joinery: the snug fit is out of my league, any very little compression (I used to rely on the wood capable of accepting some compression) leads to cracks along the grain. Now I aim for "loose fit" joinery followed by epoxy glueups. Hope it'll work.


----------



## terryR

Hard to follow yuri…but here is my interpretation of the card catalogue converted to tool storage.

I decided to build the unit in separate layers for several reasons; mainly versatility. If I decide to scrap this whole project, each layer should perform nicely when shoved underneath a drill press or whatever.










Carcase is ¾" oak ply for strength. Rabbets and dadoes by hand. Molding is pine which I had in the scrap pile.

The ?frame on the sides is M/T together…I had no idea how challenging that would be…and the little chamfered molding was shaped with an 18.

First coat of black milk paint is drying…Lexington green coming…Probably cherry drawer fronts and knobs?

I'm planning one more layer for now, but am out of ply.


----------



## terryR

Oh…Thanks to all for voting on a material for drawers. Borg made the decision for me since all they had suitable was 1/8" birch ply. Using 1/2" ply for the larger drawers.


----------



## summerfi

Terry, I think you have a good idea there, and the execution looks flawless.


----------



## bearkatwood

Sounds like it is going to turn out very nice, can't wait to see it.


----------



## johnstoneb

Looking forward to seeing it completed


----------



## yuridichesky

Terry, this one is pretty neat set of tool/storage boxes.

What are dimensions of smaller drawer?


----------



## terryR

Thanks, guys.
Yuri, the small drawers are about 3.5×4x12" on the inside.
Each layer is roughly 5×13x24".


----------



## DLK

Looking good Terry.


----------



## yuridichesky

And now I have to fit these 6 drawers:










... into this carcass:


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

You can do it, Yuri!


----------



## johnstoneb

You have the hammer hanging there to do it with. Those drawers looking nice.


----------



## yuridichesky

^ 

And now after some hammering all six drawers sit inplace:


----------



## donwilwol

Very nice yuri


----------



## johnstoneb

That looks like it just took some light taps, Looks very nice.


----------



## Handtooler

Very nicely crafted and so useful. Go get organized.


----------



## bearkatwood

Very nice use of space, that would be very helpful in keeping the shop organized. I like how you used the same size half circle pull for the successive sized drawers, it give an optical illusion that the circle changes shape. Very cool.


----------



## yuridichesky

Thank you, guys!

Here's some little details that you might find useful: the slides are standard 3/8" U-profile aluminum extrusions; the felt stickers inside of the carcass provide smooth movement and nice alignment of the drawers.


----------



## terryR

Very clean, Yuri. You do such nice work!


----------



## summerfi

Very nice Yuri. Great attention to detail.


----------



## CL810

Clever! You could start a Tip of the Week blog.



> Here s some little details that you might find useful: the slides are standard 3/8" U-profile aluminum extrusions; the felt stickers inside of the carcass provide smooth movement and nice alignment of the drawers.
> 
> - yuridichesky


----------



## johnstoneb

That is an imaginative use of the aluminum. I might try that on my next project.
The felt is getting put on my toolbox drawers as soon as I get in the shop today.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^No way those will hold up over time;-)

I use that same stuff for the channels for my sliding doors on shop cabinets.


----------



## yuridichesky

Appreciate your kind words, good LJ people!



> ^No way those will hold up over time;-)
> - BigRedKnothead


Couple of screws like these will keep that felt attached for good


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Finished reading Virtuoso, the book about the Studley tool chest. I think my favorite part is a pic of the back of a drawer….where Studley goofed, and had his marking gauge set wrong the first time. The guy's work was close to flawless, but nobody's perfect. Also a testament for us to get over our tiny mistakes and leave them be.

Last paragraph was great too.

"Like Roubo before him and a multitude of gifted artisans since, the example of Henry O. Studley as contained in his working accouterments is one of inspiration. If we remain faithful to that silent encouragement and instruction, then indeed that lineage shall remain unbroken."

Can I get an Amen!


----------



## Handtooler

You surely can. AMEN!


----------



## CB_Cohick

Yuri, I don't often get to complement another guy on his drawers without it getting awkward quickly. But those look great!


----------



## yuridichesky

Hey Chris, thanks you!


----------



## bearkatwood

I have a few planes I would like to restore and put into my cabinet so today I was working on a rack for them to sit on that would go on the cleats. I used photoshop to take a picture and see what it might look like. What are your thoughts?


----------



## bandit571

I guess I'll need to re-arrange this tool box..









But, then I'd have to find a place to stash half of this stuff…


----------



## ToddJB

Brian, weren't you going to have a separate plane till?


----------



## Handtooler

French cleats are always a good choice. Wish I had more room for them.


----------



## bearkatwood

I am going to have a separate till for planes, but I wanted to have the ones I use most often right at hand with the doors open. When the doors to the cabinet are closed I can get at the other tills, but when they are open they are somewhat blocked so I wanted to have some good planes there to use and it turns out I have lots of room in the cabinet for extras. I am almost done with the holder and it is going to work nicely as far as I can tell. It will be removable if I want to take it out.


----------



## ToddJB

Ah, I see. That makes sense. In that case, I like the till in cabinet.


----------



## summerfi

Any of you New Englanders ever been to the New York Historical Society museum to see the Duncan Phyfe tool chest? It looks very similar to the Benjamin Seaton chest. Both are from the 1790s.

I got my Seaton chest book for Christmas. Very interesting reading. I also just ordered The Toolbox Book by Tolbin. The long process of building a chest has begun, starting with research to understand these different chests and deciding what I want to build.


----------



## Mosquito

I've been enjoying the Toolbox Book over the past week or two Bob. Some good tidbits in there, but some parts of it I gloss over too


----------



## theoldfart

Bob, you'll like the book. Where abouts in NY?


----------



## summerfi

Kevin, New York city. Here's a link.
http://www.nyhistory.org/exhibit/tool-chest-tools


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks, think we'll go there in the spring.


----------



## bearkatwood

Joel wrote about Phyfes' tool box and you can buy the plans here;
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/389/title/Duncan%20Phyfe's%20Toolbox.


----------



## yuridichesky

Working on the next tool organization project: compact saw rack.

First stage of the project:










Second stage of the project:










Third stage of the project:










Good angle for the shot:










Partition is a single piece of wood:










Todo: apply some finish and hang on the wall.


----------



## Mosquito

Awesome Yuri, nice little compact saw till


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yuri, that looks quite spiffy. Nice work!


----------



## bearkatwood

Wow, you were able to really pack them in there, very nice! That is a big space saver. Nicely done. I like the laminated and grain patterns.


----------



## summerfi

I always enjoy seeing your projects Yuri. You have an innovative way of approaching things.


----------



## yuridichesky

Thank you, guys!

Limited resources (small size of the shop in my case) make you constantly think "can I do better?", and sometimes it brings up some good ideas.


----------



## bearkatwood

Will it be hanging on a cleat? It looks like a great tote to take your saws out to work on an outdoor project or class.


----------



## terryR

Nice till, and beautiful joinery as always!

I grabbed a very straight-grained and clear length of poplar the other day in town. Thought to myself, "That board is clean enough for Yuri's shop!"


----------



## yuridichesky

Brian, yes, I'm going to hang it on a cleat (or on some hook, both options available). And yes, with some little additions this will be "ready to take" tote.

Terry, thank you, and please show me that board for the verdict 
Also if it's any longer than 10' then it does not pass


----------



## mchapman87

Mine would most definitely be the Studley Tool chest. I am blown away by not only the craftsmanship of the chest, but the engineering it took to make every tool, every bastard file, plane, every little thing fit so seamlessly together. One day I will get to the Smithsonian to see the Studley chest in person.


----------



## Boatman53

Sorry that tell you but the Studley chest is no longer at the Smithsonian, it was on loan and is now back with the owner I believe. There is a new book on it put out by the Lost Art Is Press. Also a video. It was on display at Woodworking in America this past summer in Iowa. Don't know when it will be displayed next.
Jim


----------



## duckmilk

Very nice saw till Yuri! Do you mind a fellow LJ stealing your idea? ;-)


----------



## yuridichesky

> Very nice saw till Yuri! Do you mind a fellow LJ stealing your idea? ;-)
> 
> - duckmilk


Go ahead, it's an honor for me! I myself steal ideas all the time


----------



## CL810

For Smitty…. Saw this at a museum today.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ooooo, love it!


----------



## Mosquito

This one's for Smitty… wondered into this house this afternoon


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ Oh, be still my Heart! Did you get it? Are you able to get it?


----------



## Mosquito

It is mine… It is currently sitting in my kitchen 

It was poorly 'restored' at some point in its life, and is missing the bottom, but seems manageable


----------



## summerfi

You lucky guy Mos. Better go buy a lottery ticket tonight.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

It looks like an 801, the smaller box. True?

EDIT: And I really hate to say it, but without a bottom it's pretty much a worthless piece. Better send it to me for proper disposal…


----------



## DanKrager

Mos, here's a golden opportunity…he wouldn't take my offer, so perhaps trade the box for the 444? 

You're welcome, Smitty. Any time I can help a guy out…

DanK


----------



## Mosquito

I'll have to lookup the sizes, I don't have much reference material on tool boxes yet…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

There's the 888 and the 801:


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks for that Smitty… I was looking for those pictures, but couldn't find them (I made it about 20 pages back in this thread)

Mine must be an 888 then, as it's 20" x 10-1/2" x 8". As soon as I read the "Made of black walnut" on the No 801, I knew mine wasn't. Any idea what the 'hardwood' is? I'll be wanting to match that the best I can for the bottom and possibly sliding tray


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Mos, I've wondered about the wood type myself. Congrats on the pick-up, they're cool boxes for sure. The repro No. 801 I made a couple months ago fits a #5 inside just right. Haven't applied any finish to it yet, or it'd be on LJs as a project post. Maybe someday.

EDIT: And Dan, thank you for the smiles.  But I just can't see the dovetail tongue and groove plane as trade bait. It's such a rube goldberg… seriously. And I'd like to master it. It's humbling, really.


----------



## Mosquito

lol I would totally take that trade, but I have a feeling if Smitty hasn't yet mastered it, I would be a long way off myself 

Now I'll have to see if I can find the list for assortments A and B in the No. 888. Found C and D


----------



## terryR

An awesome find, Mos!


----------



## bearkatwood

nice find!


----------



## ToddJB

Nice Mos. I'm fairly certain they were designed to just hold like seven 45's


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I have the lists and can post tonight.

EDIT: Found "A"


----------



## Mosquito

That would be awesome Smitty.

This one did happen to have a SW #45 in it Todd  I do have all the SW trademark #45's as well, except for I think 1 of the Canadian SW trademarks (I think there were two, and I have 1) Might have to get a picture of all those in it for Smitty. Only comfortable with that because I've moved since the last time he knew my address


----------



## bearkatwood

Then it did happen to be awesome. I am stuck away from my shop today and you are making me long for my toys! Do you have all the goodies to fill the chest with the list and make it stock, that would be fun.


----------



## Mosquito

I do not have all the goodies to fill it with the originals, but that would be a long term goal of it some day


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Which is cheaper? Filling a No. 888 assortment or getting a dovetail T&G plane? Hmmmm… priorities, right?


----------



## Mosquito

definitely long term lol Once I get it servicable again, I'll probably fill it with some of the stuff I've got laying around, like chisels, screw drivers, a plane or two, who knows


----------



## DLK

*Smitty* or anyone: Do you also have the list of tools included in the Stanley # 850 Roll Top Tool chest?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I do not, sorry.


----------



## Mosquito

Don, I might have that one, but it may be the other one (950?) I'll have to check when I get home


----------



## DLK

> Don, I might have that one, but it may be the other one (950?) I ll have to check when I get home
> 
> - Mosquito


Is there a way to distinguish the 850 from the 950 ? Mine looks like the 850 by examining e-bay photos etc. My it is not marked as such.


----------



## Mosquito

my guess would be by the size of it/how many tools it holds, similar to the 801 vs 888 that Smitty posted about


----------



## DLK

I see web photos of what looks to me to be the chest I have with numbers 850,851 and 951. Surprisingly you find them on e-bay without tools listed for over $1000. Mine with most of the tools in it came via my mother and was originally her second husbands fathers. But I am missing some, for example the level, screw drivers and zig-zag folding ruler, but maybe more. An official list would be good so that I can track down what belongs in it. It also seems to me that the "hangers" are configured differently from chest to chest. I am sure it came with a manual
that said what goes where and it would be great to get my hands on that too. It seems that in terms of number of tools 850 > 851 > 951. But I have no authoritative tool list so far.

I am betting that I have the 29 tool number 951.


----------



## Mosquito

I've only got the list for 951. It measured 23" wide, 7-3/4" deep, and 27-3/4" tall.


----------



## Mosquito




----------



## DLK

My chest measures 23 1/8" wide, 8" deep and 27 3/4" tall. So close enough. Thus I guess its a 951.

Can you confirm that the tools I list below are the original tools that were included? 
It is based on a list I found someone posted on the internet.
I'd like to see if possible an authoritative pdf of the original tool list from Stanley. And also any instructions for the assembly of the tool hangers. It seems I have an extra hanger and it seems that some other holes were drilled to include more auger bits and chisels.


Nail Hammer, 13 oz., No. 52
Zig-Zag Rule, 6 ft., No. 106 ...... missing
Screw Driver, 5 in., No. 70 ...... missing
Screw Driver, 4 in., No. 75 ...... missing
Screw Driver, 3 in., No. 77 ...... missing
Screw Driver Bit, 5/16 in., No. 26
Hand Drill with 8 Drill Points, No. 1220
"Yankee" Push Drill with 8 Drill Points, No. 45
Bit Brace, 8 in., No. 915
Auger bit, 4/16 in., No. 100
Auger bit, 6/16 in., No. 100
Auger bit, 8/16 in., No. 100
Combination Square, 12 in., No. 122
Level, 18 in., No. 347 .......missing.
Nail Set, 2/32 in., No. 11 3/4
Bench Plane, No. 5 1/4
Block Plane, No. 9 1/4
Chisel, 1/4 in., No 750
Chisel, 1/2 in., No. 750
Chisel, 1 in., No. 750
Tack Hammer, 5oz., No. 165
Spoke Shave, No. 51
Marking Gauge, No. 65
Cold Chisel, 1/2 in., No. 74
Countersink, No. 139
Trimming Knife, No. 299
Soldering Iron, 80 watts, No. 435
Cross Cut Saw, 20 in.
Pair Pliers ......missing
"The Joy of Accomplishment" booklet …... PDF download

The ones marked missing are on my wish list.


----------



## Mosquito

Looks like I just snuck that one in before you lol Images of my catalog page above your last post Don


----------



## DLK

I see you posted while I was editing. What bugs me is the picture you show laying out the tools is different then the layout I have. Also the little metal rings on the drawer shown in your picture are non existent on my box. Here is a picture of the one I now own, when I first picked it up. Its hanging on a shop wall now and has more of its tools in it.


----------



## DLK

And you snuck another one in. LOL

But see how the tool layout is different.


----------



## Mosquito

My catalog is from the '50s. If I had to guess (with out seeing another catalog), I'd guess that different years had different configurations


----------



## DLK

could be. And could be why the drawer pulls changed.


----------



## Mosquito

Here's a larger version of just the tool chest image
http://themodsquito.com/images/woodworking/Stanley-951-Scan.jpg


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop




----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Mos, just created a couple of blogs for the two stanley tool boxes we've been talking about. I wanted to keep the inventory lists handy and see if anyone else has these things. FYI!


----------



## donwilwol

There is not much info in Walters book about these boxes, but he does say they change a bit over time.


----------



## bandit571

Went to Menards today, picked out some "Value Boards" 









Along with some table feet, some 2K grit for edges, and a 6' Zig-zag ruler. Then went to digging through some tool boxes…









Stanley No. 9-1/4….Stanley No. 945 …A #10 coping saw. Combo square is a Stanley Handyman.









Eggbeater drill ( with a few drill points) is a 1220? Stanley bevel Gauge. A couple screwdrivers, A Stanley Atha 1/2" Cold Chisel. There is a push drill in there, Goodell-Pratt with bits. A few auger bits, and a #12 gimlet bit..









6" adjustable wrench, and a slip joint pair of pliers, a 1/2" and 3/4" chisel, a small pipe wrench. The 20" crosscut saw is a WS. Afraid the claw hammer is rather new, and is 16 oz. in weight. 









still looking for the correct square, but I think that one will do for now, same with the nail set.

Currently, the made for Wards Stanley No. 3 bench plane is in use….thinking the #4, T-13 can be a stand-in?

Might try to build a little tool chest to house all of these things….need to work out a layout inside…
Soldering iron? HAD one a long time ago….haven't found it, yet. May dig through the drill bit box, and see if the correct sizes are there…don't have the countersink anymore….

Just something to try, as I haven't any projects in the works right now….


----------



## racerglen

Did someone say soldering iron ? lol..


----------



## bigblockyeti

I have that same torch in my garage, I was wondering what the top hoop and resting platform over the burner was for. Now I know.


----------



## putty

I saw one of those soldering torches "lectricified" at a local antique store. It has a flickering bulb.









also this fan


----------



## bandit571

Smitty: What are the angles on the ends cut at? 22-1/2, or 45 degrees?

Mine will be out of just good old clear Pine. Might try to dovetail the corners, as well….but, need the angles for the ends.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Bandit, can't give you that til tomorrow night, box not accessible before then.


----------



## Mosquito

15 degrees (off of perpendicular of course)


----------



## bandit571

Does this look close?









Instead of a "normal" corner joint, I'm trying out these..









This was doing tails first,...I like doing pins first better…


----------



## bandit571

Might be a few days yet…









Needs glued up….


----------



## Boatman53

Back in 1986 or so FWW published a little article about this and I was really enamored with the whole idea. I didn't have good shop space and did a lot of work in various boat yards essential wherever the boat/job was.










It took a couple years to track down the builder (no internet back then) and I eventually bought a set of plans. I started building one for my growing business. But then life happened, kids came along, divorce, moveing, moving back, another marriage, another kid. When I had time to work on it I had no money when I had money I had no time. Now due to health reasons I've got to pass along what I've got. It's not quite finished but it wouldn't take much work. All the really hard work is done. I just can't work on it any more. I don't need it for my business anymore. Here are some photos of what I've got to offer.

One of the four door frames, ready for the skin.









The view from the back. The long slot can hold a couple sheets of plywood and a folding workbench.









The view from the front. The nearest corner is the spot for the table saw. You can see the roof stiffeners and things could be tied to the roof.









It was designed to have most major tools. Bandsaw, table saw, lathe, compressor, vacuum, drill press, planer/jointer, router table, disc sander. Plus plenty of storage room for clamps and misc tools.
I have more photos but seem to be having trouble loading them.
I want this to go to someone that will finish it and put it to use. Price is free here on LJ. Before I put it on CL for real money. Feel free to ask questions.


----------



## DLK

*Jim* There is a construction crew around here that uses one of those.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hope it finds a great home!


----------



## Boatman53

Me too Smitty, I just don't want take a chainsaw to it just because it's not finished.
Jim


----------



## wormil

This is neat, not really practical for woodworking but I like it all the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-Keystone-OAK-MACHINISTS-Hobby-WOODEN-CHEST-/370134265357?hash=item562db8ae0d:m:mUzqBgA7NuKlyEaHFJqHqyg


----------



## bandit571

Up date on the Pine Tool Box Project..

This thing is getting way too heavy to lift with a single hand….soo.









Bought a pair of these Brass plated handles. Used that Vix bit to drill a few pilot holes. One handle on each end.









Next, picked up some "cup hooks" with the idea of hanging a few of the tools from them…









bevel square, and a pair of plers….









The bottom is starting to fill up…









I even stashed a block plane and a #3 bench plane in there









I think the old Stanley No.888 even listed an Oil Stone?









Might have even found a place to sit this 50+pounds of tool box…..the finish even matches..

Still have a few more hooks to use up, and a few other toys…er…TOOLS to add to the list.

IF anyone wants a list of what I have in this box….....


----------



## Anselth

Got some things settled down in my shop, and finally worked up the confidence to try to finish up my benchtop tool chest (Partially because I'm going back to the school soon, and I didn't want to not have finished the project from last time). Paint is soldier blue milk paint from woodcraft.










What I really needed was confidence to install the mortise lock. I think I did alright, though I did snap off the little pin in the keyhole and have to replace the mechanism. But at least the mortise came out ok. After taking the pictures, I treated the inside of the chest with tung oil.










Right now, this is how I envision the floor of the chest. I plan on adding 2-3 tills and a chisel rack on the back wall.










This has been a great project for increasing my confidence in using hand tools. With the exception of a little bit of drilling, everything was done by hand. The tills will be hand dovetailed and stop-ploughed to accept the bottoms.


----------



## theoldfart

Adam, nice job on the chest. I do like the molding on the bottom skirt. Keep in mind that there is space to store tools on the walls of your chest as well. I have my router planes there. Can't seem to load a picture. I'll try posting one later.


----------



## terryR

Great job, Adam. A lifelong friend, there.
Filling it with tills and tools is the fun part!


----------



## Anselth

Thanks folks. I got a lot of inspiration and ideas from this blog post by someone who took the same class: http://bringbackthehandtools.blogspot.com/2012/10/the-woodwrights-school-and-traveling.html

Watched Bill Anderson's video on half-lap dovetails, I'll probably use those for the tills, since the half-inch material seems a little slim for half-blind dovetails.


----------



## wormil

I want to ask, what do you guys think of the prices for Gerstner tool boxes? No doubt they are well made but even still, they seem very expensive. Maybe it's because I'm a woodworker.
http://gerstnerusa.com/made-in-usa-products/chests-and-bases


----------



## Handtooler

My wife is a seamstress and has six SIMILAR multi-drawer chest that she uses for thread and accessories storage and loves their usefulness for such items. Some are from *Grizzly *. they are all particularly nice and less expensive.


----------



## DLK

I come across Gerstner tool boxes at reasonable prices from time to time and stare at them wondering how I would use one. Are they to small for my needs? Still would be nice for say measurement tools, small chisels and carving tools.


----------



## Handtooler

I think you'd find ample use for them for working tools, as you suggest marking and measuring.


----------



## johnstoneb

I always wanted a Gerstner box. After spending a lot of time drooling. I decided they were probably best for measuring and marking. I built my own for my wood working tools with deeper drawers etc. Figuring lumber cost and my labor their prices are that bad. Price out metal boxes for mechanics and Gerstner is definitely competitive.


----------



## wormil

I plan on building one for my measuring and marking tools, definitely not buying, especially at $2k.


----------



## DanKrager

I've been tempted to make the universal dream tool box.
You have to scroll down a bit. 
DanK


----------



## DLK

What tool box? Me thinks the link is wrong.


----------



## DanKrager

Yes, it's a biker site, but it's got the ultimate tool box. Scroll down about two clicks. It's working here.

DanK


----------



## Mosquito

Are you talking about the "Real Mans Tool Kit"? 'cause I was looking for an actual tool box lol


----------



## DLK

Yea. If you said "Real Mans Tool Kit" I would have found it.


----------



## DanKrager

Sorry!

...but it IS an actual tool box! 

DanK


----------



## DLK

There is no other tool box. There is a list of recommended tools.


----------



## wormil

Yeah the plastic box with duct tape and wd40 is your dream tool box? LOL


----------



## industrialguttersma

> That s funny Brandon, your Dutch Chest is what got me thinking about this so I am glad you are the first post. you did an awesome job parsing out the space for your tools by the way.
> 
> That is my-currently incomplete-English Chest. I am working on tills now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - RGtools


RG, it seems that the images are not showing. Do you have the link to your photos of your toolbox? Would like to see.


----------



## wormil

> RG, it seems that the images are not showing.
> - industrialguttersma


http://lumberjocks.com/CricketWalker/blog/79274


----------



## bandit571

test…









Inside view #1..









Inside view #2….close the lids..









And, place it on a stand..









Might just work out. Not counting the table, the full (almost) tool box weighs at least 50 pounds…


----------



## realcowtown_eric

re the Gerstner tool boxes.

They are undoubtedly expensive, and in a shop with other folks around, the locking front feature keeps pthers out of it.

The drawer sin many machinists chests are small and shallow, and I believe purposely so, as some of the tool chests around here with machinists tools simply fill up to multiple layers if the drawers are too deep, encouraging clutter and possible damage when tools are stacked on top of each other.

That's anthema in the machiniists world where precision counts, and when you have a 4" deep drawer full of milling cutters, well that just ain't efficient…...too much rummaging, rubbing cutter edges against each other.

Really, it don't take much QS while oak to fabricate drawers, some baltic birch to fabricate a case and s few small pieces of veneer to dress up the sides.and you can make one of your own as big as you want it.

Eric


----------



## DLK

> .... QS while oak …
> 
> - realcowtown_eric


I'm going to guess "QS white oak", but I have been wrong to often when I guess.


----------



## kwell

I have a hand me down from an old time carpenter. This is back in the day where they moved their tool box in and stayed until the job was done. It is not large, just practical. I should find a picture.


----------



## RGtools

> That s funny Brandon, your Dutch Chest is what got me thinking about this so I am glad you are the first post. you did an awesome job parsing out the space for your tools by the way.
> 
> That is my-currently incomplete-English Chest. I am working on tills now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - RGtools
> 
> RG, it seems that the images are not showing. Do you have the link to your photos of your toolbox? Would like to see.
> 
> - industrialguttersma


Which images are not showing? The tills show for me?


----------



## CL810

HRG, for a few days last week pics stored on LJ site were not coming up.


----------



## Anselth

After a little bit of futzing, I finally settled on the final layout for the planes. I decided I didn't need the wood smoother, and would perfer to store my plaow somewhere a bit safe.










It's been a while since I cut dovetails, so the first set didn't come out all that great. The second small till is much tighter:





































I'm adding a longer till that will sit beneath these two, from the chisel rack to the far wall. My dovetail saw and small crosscut saw will go on the lid (I think. If they fit).


----------



## woodcox

To be the top of my tool box/bench place. 60"x24"x 1 1/2" 









Another 2×12,some glue and I'll be good to go.


----------



## woodcox

I forgot the glue.


----------



## jmartel

I'll take one of these.

http://www.rauantiques.com/item/woodworker-s-tool-compendium.30-3632.html


----------



## ToddJB

Woah. Awesome. What's the story? Assuredly there is a story. Looks like the maker was heavily in to carving.


----------



## DanKrager

I'd take one in whatever color was available. That includes the tools, right?

DanK


----------



## terryR

Actually yes, the tools are included.
A serious bargain at $150,000.
just sayin'


----------



## bearkatwood

That thing is badazz, gothic cool!


----------



## bigblockyeti

> Actually yes, the tools are included.
> A serious bargain at $150,000.
> just sayin
> 
> - terryR


If you're thinking about buying, I can make you one for 10% less!


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm, maybe BRK could build and restock one of these? Using just them "Modern American Made Tools" L-N????


----------



## lateralus819

That forum is hoppin'. You should come over Bandit.

Oh wait…you can't…


----------



## theoldfart

You two knock it off or take it else where. It's getting old.


----------



## theoldfart

Hey Woodcox, did you find your glue yet?


----------



## summerfi

+1 Kevin.


----------



## bandit571

I like that tool box as is. Twould be a shame to fill one like that with anything else.

Note: There isn't even a No. 4-1/2 nor any of the other Fractionals in this tool chest. All depends on what one needs as far as a set of tools for the work they do.

Now, IF someone were to make a modern copy….that is up to them….

As for the place that other fellow was talking about…...BFD, I can go as I please, where I please. Wonder why the fellow keeps following me around.


----------



## johnstoneb

Bandit you need to just drop it.


----------



## bandit571

NO. period. I am not the one going from thread to thread, protecting an Idol. Then telling everyone else they can go on about their business. He can go back to his Boyfriend's thread and lurk there.

Was merely pointing out, that a chest like that COULD be filled with all those things L-N. I've got one by Stanley, almost all filled up. I like that fancy chest, I do not have a wall to hang it on. Don't think it would look quite right, hanging from a Field Stone Foundation wall like what I have in the shop.


----------



## bkseitz

Not my place to mediate, but I will ask is this a debating forum or one to promote the fun and craft of woodworking? Maybe I'm a little Pollyanna about this forum, but, I had joined Lumberjocks to listen and learn from others expert and novice alike, and possibly share what little I've learned given back to the group. Am I wrong in assuming that is what these forums are about?

To those that have shared insights, pictures of inspiring work -Thank you! I truly appreciate your gifts to the group.


----------



## bandit571

We try to share insights and such, you merely have to ask a question. MOST of us will be glad to help others here.

Come back, anytime, and ask whatever you want. Got a tool box made yet??


----------



## bkseitz

@bandit751, No toolbox project yet. Made a euro-style workbench (another forum thread) before I realized it didn't match the type of woodworking I'm doing. So my primary workbench is an assembly table embedded t-track I built about 10 years ago which enables me to connect several jigs and tools for a large work surface. My thinking on it continues to evolve; considering adding an insert that would also make it a downdraft table.










Currently my efforts are in other shop projects (on other forums) in preparation for finishing two other projects for my wife (Carpentry -make/extend Barn for Goats, Cabinetry -make a entry closet, laundry room cabinets, back table behind a couch, finish storage cabinets I made [make raised panel doors] Four Poster Bed, etc…):

-Shop Reorg (reclaiming space in cluttered barn)
-Building a Router Table and Sanding Station
-Building Dust collection and air quality systems

The reorg and dust collection being high priority right now so I don't cutoff an arm or some other appendage while working in a cluttered environment. -had a real close call a year or so back while making some long molding on my router table, it almost flipped onto me when the piece knocked over one of the rolling bearing horses I put in path to support the work. That spawned all these shop projects; first and foremost getting the clutter out of the way so I'm not stepping on or over stuff to use tools.


----------



## DLK

Every forum anywhere on the web seems have a few "troubles". The LJ forum has had the least "troubles" of any I have had the fortune to stumble into. Everyone here is always friendly and helpful, but sometimes a little too serious.
It is a real pleasure to be a member.


----------



## bandit571

Looks good from here!

Life in a basement, does not include very much in the way of workspace for me. Been adding to the small workbench I have, trying to keep it from walking around as I use it.

Have fun!!


----------



## bkseitz

@bandit751, I got into all of this to support my wife's Real Estate projects-fix a cabinet, do some trim molding, etc-over a short period of time I found it to be really enjoyable. I had worked in machine and automotive shops before, so I had experience making things out of metal. However, there is something about making things out of wood that is different and more fun.

I hadn't nor did my wife expect it would become a real hobby for me. I think she's happy about it though figuring I'd need something to keep me occupied other than cooking as I get close to retiring-though I doubt I'll fully retire. As such the barn which was kind of a clutter dump is being taken over to become a dream workshop ( I expect eventually the entire 40'x50' space will become a collection of workshops: ~1/2 will be wood shop, !/4 for farm repair, and 1/4 for my boys and I to work on cars (they're really into off-road stuff).


----------



## woodcox

> Hey Woodcox, did you find your glue yet?
> 
> - theoldfart


Lol, thanks for reminding me. I ran out of what I had with one stick left to go. Tonight I will laminate all of them at once. Only three 2×12s used and will be a hair over 1 1/4" thick. There will be two cases with ten drawers under the top. I think I will have to tackle the drawers next to get that hump out of the way. I think my bench build went faster lol.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Hmmm, maybe BRK could build and restock one of these? Using just them "Modern American Made Tools" L-N????
> 
> - bandit571


You've got to be a pro at making inflammatory comments and then twisting the situation around so you look "oh so innocent."

Ever since we've disagreed on the plane forum, you've been sprinkled little nasty comments, like the one above….all over LJs and other forums. Aren't ya tired yet? Even your friends on the site are telling you to drop it already!

I'm half your age and I had the sense to walk away and go play in my own sandbox. I like it here, and there's a lot of people who have made it clear they want me here. You'd probably better just get over it ol bandito.


----------



## bandit571

Do YOU have a tool box to show off??

Kind of thought not….....same old same old. Thought you were "through" posting on here, other than your prefered posts? Rather stalk me instead…....Slow night on your "home ground", Sectionhand?


----------



## bandit571

build this


----------



## Mosquito

I think Bandit should make that tool cabinet first. I'll build one just like it right after you do Bandit. In fact I think Red and Lat would both join me too.

If you actually go look at some of the projects that many people in this thread have created, even you should be able to figure out that while none of us may have a tool cabinet like that it's not from a lack of abilities.

Go back to your shop, build what you want and use what you want to make you enjoy woodworking and let everyone else do the same. Even a Minnesotan is getting sick enough of this crap to call you out.


----------



## ShaneA

It is getting serious when the Minnesotans are riled up. That lack of snow is wearing Mos down. Lol


----------



## Mosquito

lol it's 60 outside right now, that's crazy for March… thinkin' saw rehab and sharpening outside is in order

(Average high this time of year is 30's)


----------



## theoldfart

Same here Mos. Short sleeves and working in the gardens. I have some flowers already in bloom. Freakin' weird!


----------



## summerfi

It's 43 here in old Montana, but that's above normal. Snow's all been gone for a few weeks now. Flowers are popping up but not blooming yet.


----------



## wormil

Had to turn on the air conditioner twice already in Raleigh.


----------



## Mosquito

Haven't gotten that far here yet, but did have windows open today


----------



## terryR

A/C has been running for a couple of weeks already.
Grass season opened this weekend.


----------



## bigblockyeti

Been raining alot lately in the rust belt, still chilly enough the furnace is still on but we've had enough warm days that it's not running too much.


----------



## woodcox

One more 6" section to go in and it will have to do. Nice clamps are appreciated here.


----------



## bigblockyeti

^ Looking good, that is turning into quite the glue up.


----------



## DanKrager

Woodcox, my understanding is sometimes limited. This massive glue up is part of your tool box? Paul Bunyon styel?

DanK


----------



## terryR

Yep, looks great, woodcox!
I glued up my top in sections as well. Too much for a skinny guy to lift in one piece.


----------



## woodcox

Tool bench top Dan. Drawer cases below and a wall cabinet or hutch atop.


----------



## Cricket

As to the bickering going on in this thread, enough is enough. Just stop it.
http://lumberjocks.com/CricketWalker/blog/42535


----------



## DanKrager

LAWL, woodcox. I kinda thought so, but was feeling facetious. Thanks for putting up with me.

DanK


----------



## Buckethead

I follow like six threads. This is one of them. Don't make me.


----------



## CL810

And so it begins…


----------



## theoldfart

Danm it Andy, your doing it again!

OK, what's the plan? It looks Dutch. I can see the spot for a drawer. What else?


----------



## johnstoneb

In the low 70's yesterday and today might get some rain tomorrow.


----------



## DLK

Mid 20's today (and tomorrow), still snowing but weather advisory has ceased.


----------



## CL810

Kev, It's for my son. It's the same as this. Only this one won't be painted as its mahogany. He is graduating from med school next month so I'm making the chest and I put together a basic hand tool set, mostly vintage, as my graduation gift.


----------



## bandit571

This little box, with most of the tools in it









Will be a "door prize" next weekend. 









Just a way of paying forward..









No money will be involved. 









Seems there will be a get together of a nice group of friends, each will have a little something to contribute to the fest. This will be mine.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ok Andy, you are a pimp (and awesome Dad)....in this life.


----------



## bandit571

Contents of the box? Go to Smitty's blog. and look up the "parts list" for a Stanley No.888. I think I have most of the items.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy and Bandit, fantastic gestures. Well done gentlemen.


----------



## bandit571

Seems I made up a beginers tool box last year, and donated it to the local school system for the Disabled. So that they may learn how to use a basic set of hand tools. 









What I had laid out, and..









Pile of tools..









I used an old plastic tool box to carry all the toys in. Paying forward….....


----------



## putty

You are a good man Bandit!!!


----------



## CL810

Glue up day. Used double sided tape to attach the thingamajig as an experiment. Worked out alright but not sure it would hold up to a parallel clamp. I didn't need a lot of pressure, so it worked out just fine.










Going pretty smoothly thanks to this little iron. ;-)


----------



## woodcox

Ahh details cl810 on the iron if you please. That looks like the knees.


----------



## CL810

It's a very small iron I use whean steaming out dings in wood. I found it at a craft store.


----------



## xeddog

I haven't looked through all 64 pages of replies, but here is what my tool box would look like.










Wayne


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ their woodworking tools are insanely good. Seriously.


----------



## DLK

^ they have wood working tools?


----------



## theoldfart

^^ I didn't know that. nobody told me. whodathunk?


----------



## putty

.


----------



## wormil

^^^
.
They have woodworking tools?


----------



## CL810

Been making steady progress. Carcass assembled and lid installed. Lots left to do. Final fit of drawer, knobs/pulls, till, and final surface prep.


----------



## terryR

Looks like a lot of work, Andy.
Gorgeous, too!


----------



## theoldfart

Looking pretty choice there Andy.


----------



## CL810

Making progress. Dry fit of chisel rack and tills.



















For the finish I've applied Watco's teak oil and then wax. For some reason the Teak Oil did not get this particular mahogany to the deep rich color I was looking for. I compared The Anarchist's Daughter's wax and Renaissance Wax. TAD's beeswax deepened the mahogany's color further than the oil did which I am happy about. Renaissance wax dried clear, which is normally good. Not sure if how well the pic will show this, but the top half has TAD wax and the bottom half has none.


----------



## johnstoneb

That is looking nice Andy. I really like the dovetail accent on the racks


----------



## Brit

Fantastic work Andy. Dovetails are looking sharp.


----------



## DanKrager

Cl810, are you sure that's not an end table? It's gorgeous!

DanK

Edit: It's a hope chest….hope it gets filled with nice tools!


----------



## CL810

Thanks guys.

Dan, you're right, it will be filled with tools. . A graduation gift.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, your son should be pleased with the effort. As far as the wax the TAD is pretty damn good. Guess I'm going to have to get some. I am really impressed.
The workmanship on the chest is first rate(I do expect this from you) and well done. Are you going to fill the chest a well? If so will you be willing to adopt me?


----------



## CL810

Evidently a lot of people like the wax. LAP sent an email late last night that more was available. It was sold out by this afternoon. Chris' daughter has to be happy.


----------



## theoldfart

Yea, the last three batches were gone quicker than whatever. I think it's the Schwartz aura effect.

How did you apply it and how did you buff it?


----------



## CL810

Used old tee shirt to apply and buffed just a bit.


----------



## terryR

Wow, Andy!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

'New' marking knife for the toolchest. Hand-made by a Lake of the Ozarks ironmonger.



















Fits my hand, fits in the top till nicely.


----------



## CL810

Shameless self-promotion.

Project posted here.

It's almost embarrassing that I started this chest in April. Not a lot of shop time this year!


----------



## BrentParkin

I can't believe I never noticed this thread. I just finished the Toolbox of my dreams this summer. I posted about it in the Projects section yesterday.

My dream turned out to be my own take on an Anarchist style tool chest.


















You can read about it over at: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/268506

This is a great thread!!!

Brent


----------



## terryR

Beautiful chest.
Looks like mine. LOL.
(still not posted as a project somehow; dunno how I stay so far behind. Farm maybe?)


----------



## Underdog

My dream toolbox would be about the size of a lunchbox, and contain every tool known to man available in it. 
When I opened it, the tool I wanted would be the only one I could see…
Well. You DID ask.


----------



## jwmalone

Man ive got to stop watching these threads. Every time I look at a new one I have to go dig up another mason jar 
You guys got some sweet stuff posted.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Two mighty fine toolchests right there… More pics always welcome (like, showing the till in place for each). Oh, and we need an update on Andy's build, right? (Unless he's on my kind of project timeline for that toolchest).


----------



## terryR

I feel like I over distressed the black paint, but that will be changed one of these days. And, I hope to add handles to either side. Really need to outfit the chest with a few small tool organizers. Block planes are already out and hanging on a cleat.

photo dump,


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I don't think you distressed it too much Terry. I just distressed mine the other day and I think I did more than you and the wife thinks it should be even more. Love your chest, looks great! I did some work on the inside of mine to make it look old too. Looks kind of dirty'ish and worn. trying to make it look a couple hundred years old. First time with real milk paint and first time trying to age something. I might have gone too far….we'll see I guess.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I think it looks great Terry.


----------



## CL810

Awesomeness!


----------



## terryR

Thanks, gents.

I'd like to add handles like these,










And really need to get back on this build.










...the drawers are finished, but the milk paint was not applied properly and needs to be sanded off and re-done. I think I failed to sand the first coat? Now, it just leaves a grey residue on your hands every time you brush against it.


----------



## Mosquito

Don't worry Terry, I haven't done anything with my toolchest in a while either… it stalled out when we started looking at buying a house, and haven't done anything to it since using it to move to the new house… a year ago lol


----------



## terryR

Honestly, I don't feel bad, Mos. LOL.

Still have a brand new 24×36' shop that I haven't even touched!

But, I completed an area of fencing my wife wanted around her new ducks/guineas, our grass looks nicely mowed, and all our vehicles have fresh oil and filters. Sometimes life gets in the way of shop time.


----------



## gargey

edit ...chg mind don't want to get involved…


----------



## Mosquito

Don't, 'cause I don't either lol


----------



## terryR

troll.


----------



## DLK

Mos isn't your house just a big toolchest?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I can't believe how long it takes you guys to complete projects…
.
.
.
.
(Ducking and Running)
.
.
.
PS: What did the Troll say? I missed it!


----------



## jmartel

Terry, those handles are awesome looking. I'm gonna have to remember those.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Smitty, I have about a month into mine but that's just weekends and a few evenings. Not sure if that's long or not. Will be weekend 6 this weekend but it should be completed this weekend.

My weekends include Mondays since I work 4×10's otherwise so I guess I get a little extra out of it.


----------



## terryR

Hope to find time in this decade to build a smaller chest. Check out these pretties:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/sbucy?ref=l2-shopheader-name



















dude does nice work! Prices reflect that.


----------



## DLK

Hey… something like that has been floating in my head to build for my carving tools. 
Two many projects!


----------



## DanKrager

Those are pretty colors and cute boxes, but they look clunky to me. Is it just me? I use lighter weight (thinner) material for smaller boxes and it seems to help with proportions. Just as strong and about 1/3 lighter weight.

DanK


----------



## DLK

Yes of course. My plan is case and drawer fronts 1/2" thick, drawer sides 3/8", drawer bottoms 1/4" (approximately so).


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

ki, I was poking at myself w/ the 'long timelines' comment. Some projects of mine have taken years.


----------



## Mosquito

> Mos isn t your house just a big toolchest?
> 
> - Combo Prof


No, just the kitchenette in the basement…. and garage… and slightly overflowing into the basement living room….

Ok, yes.


----------



## DLK

I would hope there is one one hanging above your bed too.


----------



## wormil

> Those are pretty colors and cute boxes, but they look clunky to me. Is it just me?
> - Dan Krager


Yeah and for that kind of money I would expect continuous grain drawer fronts. Still a bargain compared to a Gerstner though.


----------



## Mosquito

> I would hope there is one one hanging above your bed too.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Not hanging above the bed, but there is an old Stanley screwdriver and an angle finder on top of my dresser…


----------



## BrentParkin

> Two mighty fine toolchests right there… More pics always welcome (like, showing the till in place for each). Oh, and we need an update on Andy s build, right? (Unless he s on my kind of project timeline for that toolchest).
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Well here are a few more images of my chest both under construction and at the end. This was the first project I ever hand cut dovetails for. I don't know why I let it intimidate me for so long.









I built a Moxon vise big enough to accomodate the 26" height of the chest and it was a real help.









The botom of the lid carries squares, steel rules and pinch rods so far. Use of rare earth magnets helps keep everything in its place.









The pinch rods got some small holders and toggles to keep them in place.









This little sliding sub till in the deepest main till helps keeping some small stuff organized.









I found these brass finger pulls in an antique store about 20 years ago and finally found a use for them.









Some simple brackets keep the hand drills from tumbling around. I have yet to sort out where that modern reproduction Millers Falls cigar shave will live. Probably a bracket mounted higher on the sides of the till.









My lid stay is a poor first attempt at hand filing steel into something pretty. I sunk some threaded inserts into the chest to attach the stay. I then threaded the steel bar and used some camera tripod socket screws that were unthreaded at the top to create captive screws that are nice and flat when you fold down the little handles built into them. Found these on e-Bay.

Since you asked for more pictures… LOL.

Hope everyone has a great day with some time in the shop!

Brent


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Those are great pics, Brent! Thanks for sharing, nice work indeed.


----------



## DanKrager

Brent, I've never been too excited about these big tool chests because they tend to get so heavy they can't be moved! But you've almost inspired me to think more seriously about it. You've got some gorgeous arrangement going on.

My whole career of woodworking revolved around a "portable" shop, i.e. could take the whole thing to a job site and be set up just like at home. An hour to load, an hour to unload plus travel time. Done. Now I've complicated things with two sets of tools, hand tools and power tools, plus heavy duty construction tools. One chest just isn't going to cut it! Heck, six chests might not do it…have four and counting…

DanK


----------



## DLK

Brent. Thanks for that note on the Moxon. Now I know why I made mine so big and can stop wishing it was smaller.

But I have to ask … why are you keeping your trout flies in your tool chest?


----------



## BrentParkin

> Brent. Thanks for that note on the Moxon. Now I know why I made mine so big and can stop wishing it was smaller.
> 
> But I have to ask … why are you keeping your trout flies in your tool chest?
> 
> - Combo Prof


You must mean the Cabella box. I use all sorts of tins to keep stuff together LOL. That one has my brad point bits and countersink in it. LOL. Was in a sale bin for a couple of bucks when I found it.


----------



## BrentParkin

> Brent, I ve never been too excited about these big tool chests because they tend to get so heavy they can t be moved! But you ve almost inspired me to think more seriously about it. You ve got some gorgeous arrangement going on.
> 
> My whole career of woodworking revolved around a "portable" shop, i.e. could take the whole thing to a job site and be set up just like at home. An hour to load, an hour to unload plus travel time. Done. Now I ve complicated things with two sets of tools, hand tools and power tools, plus heavy duty construction tools. One chest just isn t going to cut it! Heck, six chests might not do it…have four and counting…
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


Well I don't need portability even though at the moment my shop is a couple of hours away. I needed protection and then discovered as I was building it, how nice it was to move it around me keeping things at a nice close reaching distance. When I shut the shop for the season a couple of weeks ago, I wheeled the chest out to the minivan and pushed it up a set of ramps all by myself. Worked out just fine. Getting it out was a little tougher. LOL.


----------



## wormil

I'm going to build 2 machinist style chests for Christmas. I have 2 plans, a traditional Gerstner style from Deltagram with lots of skinny drawers and more 1990's-esqe version by Jim Stack with fewer but larger drawers. They are roughly the same size. I am having trouble deciding between them.

Jim's is way simpler and the plans are better.










The Deltagram version has all those cool drawers. On the other hand, it's a lot of drawers.










What would you pick and why? One I will keep for layout, measuring and mechanical tools. The second will be a gift and will store drafting and artist tools.


----------



## DanKrager

I have found lots of shallow drawers handier than deeper ones. I really dislike storage where things get stacked one upon the other so you have move things around to get what you want. I have a Gerstner box and find that the bottom drawer at 2 or 2 1/2" deep is troublesome like that. On the other hand its the only drawer I can fit a small egg beater and a Shinto rasp. Lots of wasted space there. Shoot, while we're dreaming maybe a box with very shallow drawers, one with medium, and one with deeper ones!

DanK


----------



## terryR

Rick, that would be a tough choice! Both are sweet IMO. The first is certainly a bit simpler.

Custom drawer sizes would be the best reason to build one!

I was also worried about the weight of a 24×24x42" chest when filled with tools. I just keep it on wheels, and don't move it more than 10". My jobsite is the land I live on, so the front seat of my truck is the toolbox for home.

At first, I also complained about having to bend over to grab tools in the ATC. But, in practice, I tend to leave tools on the bench for a week at a time. So, bending is minimized to occasionally selecting another tool, or final clean up of the bench post-project.


----------



## wormil

How would you guys build this tool box? It has a zig zag slanted lid and frame and panel sides.

Side profile. Looks like a pain in the butt.


----------



## knockknock

> How would you guys build this tool box? It has a zig zag slanted lid and frame and panel sides.
> - Rick M.


Those look like two different boxes.

The bottom picture is bizarre but doable. The panel is cut on a diagonal, the frame is cut straight across. But in order to keep it together you would have to glue the panel into the frame, which sort of defeats the purpose of the frame and panel. Edit: Although, if you think of it as a way of cutting up a piece of wood and then gluing it back together. That is a way to make the zig zag.

The top picture only has a flat at the back. I would modify the design so that the flat was the thickness of the back panel. That way I could do the diagonal on the side pieces. Now as I only use hand tools, precision cutting of pieces just does not happen, but I can match and square etc. So I would start with my side pieces a little oversize, do the diagonals, then dry peg and tape the side panels back into solid pieces, and then align them together on the diagonals and joint the back edges. Then still working the sides together and aligned on the diagonals, using the back edge as a reference, square the top and bottom of the sides, and parallel the front edges to the back. Then depending on grain directions either rabbet or dovetail the back pieces into the side pieces to get the flats at the back (but would not glue them yet). Then finally I would rabbet or dovetail and fit the front pieces in, and then add the top and bottom (rabbet or floating panel).

Note: I edited my description several times.


----------



## bigblockyeti

Is there more of the picture available, it kind of looks like the above would be the interior of what's shown below and the snippet off to the right of the bottom only further confuses things. As for the sides, I'd be very tempted to run a full perimeter around the upper half and lower halves of the panel effectively making two different panels. It would be more work but more robust where the two would meet in the middle of the plane.


----------



## wormil

It is the same box. Bottom pic is the right side elevation and top is detail on the arm in a cutaway view. The detail could be the opposite (left) side, as if you have xray vision, I'm not clear on that. The detail calls out "irons on 2 ends". I'm guessing that is a piece of flat plate steel in which the support arm rides, but I'm not clear on how it attaches. I'm also a little befuddled about the springs on the tills.

After thinking about it, my way to make the zig zag: Make the frame, cut it. Insert and mark the panel, cut it. And I agree on moving the top flat down a bit. Worst case if you mess up, you have to make a new panel. Matter of fact I would probably make a couple extra panels from pine or something just for practice.

Link to full size plan: http://i.imgur.com/m4uvE5B.jpg

Full thing but the text doesn't add any details.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

> The detail could be the opposite (left) side, as if you have xray vision
> 
> - Rick M.


That's the way I interpret the drawing as well.


----------



## bandit571

Hmm, building one of these was hard enough to do…









Lids aren't my "strong point" 









Adding drawers? Meh….


----------



## pontic

My shop is one big messy toolbox


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Sneak peek. First manufactured aging on a piece. Lots to tell about this, it does more than just store tools. Hence the extra holes in places. The Incra hold down is a clue. Was a fun experiment.

Project coming soon…...


----------



## bandit571

Mine's a lott over-full, right now..









Work in progress…


----------



## KelleyCrafts

You're a riot bandit. I do like the slanted dovetail corners though. I've never done that but I'm entering a tray contest soon and making one to match the dining table I'm building and plan to give it a go on that project.


----------



## terryR

> - ki7hy


love your name in cursive across the base. subtle.
I hope to add this one day, too.


----------



## summerfi

This is the Gerstner style chest I built for my son. White oak and walnut. A fun project overall.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Thanks Terry. I have to give credit to the wife and her crafting skills for the name. She was looking at pics with me when I started this project and there was a beat up old chest with a name across it and she thought we should do that. My box is modeled after one that's 200 years old and made to look the part. I am still unsure of the distressing though. Might be a bit much but the jury is still out on it here. I might have done too good of job making it look 200 years old. I'll see about getting a project posted on it tomorrow or Tuesday to explain the box and it's "extras".

Bob that is an amazing gift. The inlay is incredible. I have the veritas inlay thing for my router and have been dying to try it out. Will have to do that very soon. Your son will surely pass that through many generations.


----------



## CL810

Great chest Bob!


----------



## wormil

Bob you sure do nice work.


----------



## terryR

Wow, Bob!


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I just posted an English box/workbench in the projects section. Not sure if I should post the full thing in both places so here you go.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/271722#comment-3454058


----------



## wormil

Anyone recognize this toolbox? I found it on Pinterest, the link was dead, and a google image search just keeps leading back to Pinterest.


----------



## johnstoneb

Fine woodworking has an article and plans for one similar. Here is a link to one that was built based on those plans

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/123537

I built one similar to it added a drawer.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/138274


----------



## wormil

Thanks, I wasn't looking for plans.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

No.


----------



## bandit571

Looks a bit like one of Paul Sellers' tool chests…


----------



## wormil

It does kinda. Anyway, I'm building one like it for my daughter to use at design school and was wondering who built it.


----------



## Boatman53

This might help. It looks like Michael Pekovich.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/06/04/the-essential-tool-chest

Jim


----------



## TheFridge

So, does milk paint help a bunch against moisture?

I never really bought into toolchests but I'm up for one if it can cut down the moisture my tools are exposed to. Plus I have a bunch of cypress. Pretty. Fairly strong. Lightweight.

Trying to decide chest or no. Then. Wall hanging or floor.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I personally can't comment from experience on moisture Fridge however, I would think that a closed box should retain close to the moisture level left in the box once it's closed to a certain extent. I have a friend in Florida with humidity issues and a chest helped with his issues. I have a wall hanging cabinet I use the most. This one is used mostly for trips up north to visit family but I'm thinking of putting the two chests I have on some furniture rollers under the wall hanging one and use both chests too.

Either way, the workbench/chest in my projects was a major neander build and it's been my favorite project thus far. I just wish I smoothed the walls out more instead of trying to age it so much. Still enjoyed it more than anything this far. I did use old school powder milk paint on mine.


----------



## bandit571

Save all those little packets you get inside pill bottles. They are the ones that keep pills dry in the bottle. Take a handful and just toss them around inside the toolchest.

Ask the drugstore for the packets they get, as well, since they normally just throw theirs away.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Genius Bandit! You can also get larger packets cheap on Amazon. Search silica gel packets. We don't have these crazy issues in Arizona.


----------



## TheFridge

I have quite a few big ones that I've saved over time. Reusable is awesome too.

I guess I'm just trying to talk myself into a box or cabinet


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Both fridge. Everyone's doing it. You know you want to.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Ultimately I would say a cabinet if you don't plan to travel with your tools. Obviously this is a personal choice and this thread being what it is will give you a different opinion than mine. I did love my chest build though the most.


----------



## BrentParkin

Whatever you build just install an inexpensive gun safe dehumidifier. Works perfect in my English style chest.



> So, does milk paint help a bunch against moisture?
> 
> I never really bought into toolchests but I m up for one if it can cut down the moisture my tools are exposed to. Plus I have a bunch of cypress. Pretty. Fairly strong. Lightweight.
> 
> Trying to decide chest or no. Then. Wall hanging or floor.
> 
> - TheFridge


----------



## wormil

I built a tool wall, best thing I ever did.


----------



## wormil

I think this deserves more love, just for the cool factor


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I liked that one too Rick. When I saw it I said "damnit, no I have to find time to build one."


----------



## bandit571

Made a stack of drawers a while back, just to hold the "extras" in the shop..









Already starting on a smaller one for under the bench…


----------



## KentInOttawa

> So, does milk paint help a bunch against moisture?


I'm not really sure, but in an unheated shop with relatively large temperature swings, there will be times when your tools are much cooler than the surrounding ambient air. This is the perfect condition for condensation and rust. The tool chest helps prevent rust by trapping air next to the tool that is the same temperature as that tool.

Combined with the silica gel and/or a gun rack heater, regulating your shop temperature around your tools (blocking the flow of warm air into a cold space) is your next best defence. Tool boxes and cabinet s(with doors) are just smaller spaces so they're easier to regulate. So, does milk paint help? Probably some. A bunch? I dunno.



> Trying to decide chest or no. Then. Wall hanging or floor.
> 
> - TheFridge


Build 'em all, then pick your favourite! PLMK.


----------



## DLK

When I am feeling blue, going into the shop and seeing my tool wall my it gives great joy and brings peace. So I vote for tool wall. But except for very few in boxes all mine are open to see and unprotected from the elements. But I live in the frozen north which is quite dry … even in summer. When I move south down towards the rust belt I may have to add cabinet doors and silica packets. In general I like my tools to be in easy reach. I think if they are hard to get to or even hard to see I just might never use them. I have a lovely Miter Box I would use but its under the bench and just too hard to get to, so I a use my noisy dust making compound miter saw.


----------



## bigblockyeti

I used silica gel packets and it did not work out well. I received a new Veritas #4 smoother for Christmas about 7 years ago and it was almost too nice to use. Keeping it looking like new was a very high priority especially since my shop isn't air conditioned (but it is heated and insulated) so I had it stored in a plastic drawer with a couple desiccant packs and in only three months after being stored in the shop with the packs it developed surface rust on the body and the iron. Needless to say I was mortified to find this, luckily I was able to clean everything up to function perfectly but it'll never look as good as it did when it was new again. Regular use and waxing I've found work best to keep it in good shape.


----------



## TheFridge

I kinda like a wall hung or like smittys, on a stand more or less.

Shop has no conditioning, isn't insulated, and the fiberboard crap is rotting at the bottom.

I don't transport tools and I want something closeable. So I guess I need to assess my shop space to see where I can squeeze something in.


----------



## DLK

If I could work up the courage I would build a wall of tambour door wall hung cabinets.


----------



## Mosquito

That is probably something I'm going to have to do more of once I get my shop done… tool storage boxes/cabinets. So far most things have been open air storage because my shop space has always been inside the house, and as a result centrally heated and air conditioned…


----------



## DanKrager

Combo, I'll cut the slats for your tambour doors…I have both cutters for solid wood tambours that use cable threaded through holes to hold them together. This enables the panel to move in S curve slots or just be rolled up in a fairly tight curl. Shipping could be a bummer, but maybe not so bad if I supply the wood…most any domestic hardwood is available to me at very reasonable prices.

DanK


----------



## terryR

Fridge, build a chest with a dust seal lid.
Put it on a stand so you don't have to bend over too far.
Place expensive tools inside.
Leave lesser tools hanging on the wall.

you are welcome.


----------



## BrentParkin

I have an incredibly bad back (fusion surgery is eminent). But I have no trouble working out of my English style chest. I used to have a standing tool cabinet, but when I built the traditional chest last year, discovered that by rolling it behind me when I'm working at the bench, I just turn around and grab what I need. If it is a plane in the bottom of the chest, I lean on an edge and its no problem. Back saws, chisels, screwdrivers, marking gauges are all at the top. It is truly functional (as in not for a collector's excess tools).

I did not enjoy my standing cabinet even though it kept everything at an eye enjoyable level. But here is my current theory…

Build a traditional English chest first and try it. If you don't like it, you have a beautiful blanket box just by removing the tools. There was no secondary use for my standing chest so I cut it apart and re-used the lumber from it. I still have tools on shelves in the shop, but they are not tools I really use, just things I like to keep around. My working kit is all contained in the chest. Oh and you can just see the gun safe dehumidifier mounted on the right hand side of the floor in the chest. Keeps it warm and well above dew point in there. 

Just my two cents. YMMV.

Brent



> Fridge, build a chest with a dust seal lid.
> Put it on a stand so you don t have to bend over too far.
> Place expensive tools inside.
> Leave lesser tools hanging on the wall.
> 
> you are welcome.
> 
> - terryR


----------



## DLK

> Combo, I ll cut the slats for your tambour doors…I have both cutters for solid wood tambours that use cable threaded through holes to hold them together. This enables the panel to move in S curve slots or just be rolled up in a fairly tight curl. Shipping could be a bummer, but maybe not so bad if I supply the wood…most any domestic hardwood is available to me at very reasonable prices.
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


Well that would solve half the problem. Now who can provide me the time to do the rest. Seriously not this year I have to get our house ready for sale, but maybe next year or when I move to southern Mi, in which case I would just drive down to Onley and pick them up. Thanks for the offer I will definitely remember this when the time comes. There would be some design details to work out.


----------



## DLK

Tools particularly block planes, braces and chisels tend to multiply to fill all available space. A chest might just keep them contained.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Silica gel packets don't adsorb moisture forever, so I'm not sure they do anything 'long term' at all in a toolchest but provide a false sense of security.

Regarding tool storage options in general, everyone has their own way of working so there's no 'one size fits all' solution. That said, there's a wide variety of tool options in my shop. For example, dado cuts could be made with the #45, #46, #50, or even the #238; no single repository will hold all of them effectively. I've got bench chisels, bench chisels and pigstickers too… the specifics are many. So, at the end of the day, there's a cabinet under my bench that holds my most used marking and measuring tools (but not all of the ones I use). Most of my hand saws are in the till next to the bench or in the window; I never reach for the ones tucked into the chest. The chest does hold my tool tote, and it has a bunch of my most commonly used tools, too. And the bench planes I use are either under the bench itself or in the not-wall-hung.

Which repository gets used the most is irrelevant, but they each have a specific purpose and don't require a bunch of space. And I've done my best to limit what I have to what can 'fit' within this system.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I hear ya fridge. Since we moved, my new garage shop is a little rougher on the tools. My old shop was built under the garage and had a fairly stable temp range. New one not as much. And, I don't work with my tools as consistently I've been kicking around a tool cabinet. Maybe a big one to hang on my french cleats;-)


----------



## TheFridge

I've noticed a lot less spotting on my tools but I have probably 4- 4"x4" sized packets in a max 2sq ft area. It's probably about time to nuke them 

I think most of my problem is poorly sealed wood contacting soles. I've since put spacers and tried to be more diligent about waxing after use. I like the thought of oiling them but I don't know if I feel like getting oil on my hands and transferring it to work surfaces on accident. I just don't know enough about oiling then and the different kinds. Guess it wouldn't hurt to look into it because it seems like it would be a better preventative.

My biggest problem with a chest or chest on stand is that I would have to tackle some major rearranging and space issues. Which is why I lean toward wall hanging. Right now I can fit all my tools with the exception of saws in about 4-5 saw ft which I think is doable. Plus I think it would be an awesome challenge. And anything on or near the ground is susceptible to a lot more dew and moisture than higher up.dont think my shop has a vapor barrier under the Slab.

Edit: my mind keeps thinking of some sort of poor attempt at a studley


----------



## DLK

What if lined each shelf with thick felt soaked in oil (say camelia, jojoba) would that help or be sufficient for rust prevention at least on the plane soles.


----------



## TheFridge

I would think so? Definitely wouldn't hurt.


----------



## bandit571

maybe use the same foam pads that you put in metal tool chests? Buy it by the roll, cut to fit the spaces inside the wooden chests, maybe spritz each with a bit of oil?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> What if lined each shelf with thick felt soaked in oil (say camelia, jojoba) would that help or be sufficient for rust prevention at least on the plane soles.
> 
> - Combo Prof


The drawers in my joinery bench are lined with leather- fuzzy side up. Some think that's an invitation for rust. I soaked the leather with wd-40. I buy it by the gallon in my shop anyway….honing lube for oil stones. Never seen a spot of rust on those tools.


----------



## TheFridge

Good idea


----------



## woodcox

Oh my.
http://www.core77.com/posts/52676/This-is-What-a-150000-Antique-Tool-Storage-Case-Looks-Like


----------



## JADobson

Reviving this awesome thread. I'm working on a Dutch tool chest right now. Straight out of Schwarz's Popular Woodworking plans. I've added a little drawer on the side for my oiled rag in a can (a la Sellars).


----------



## CL810

Looking good Dobson! Keep the progress pics coming.


----------



## sawdustdad

I found the tool chest shown in this photo in an antique shop. I think I paid $100 for it. I'm using it but have not yet figured out exactly which tools to put in it permanently. The shallow drawers limit what will fit. There is a fall front that closes and is captured by the lid, so it's pretty neat the way it's built. Still has the original owner's initials hand painted on the top.


----------



## knockknock

Dobson, yes keep the progress pics coming.


----------



## CL810

sawdustdad, your tool chest looks like a copy of a Gerstner style machinist tool chest. Marking and measuring tools for the the shallow drawers?

Your shop is too clean. ;-)


----------



## ToddJB

That's what I thought too, Andy, but some very different design features from the common manufacturers of yesteryear. Looks shopmade to me.


----------



## CL810

Ya, I agree Todd, just thought someone copied the general Gerstner idea and made one for himself.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Looks shop made to me and looks really nice. I'm no machinist but I'll bet I could find plenty of uses for a box like that in my shop. Nice find.


----------



## wormil

> - sawdustdad


The lid opens in an interesting way, I like it because it makes seeing into the top tray easier. Any close up pics of the drawer construction? I'm curious if it uses drawer lock joints like Gerstner.


----------



## ToddJB

I've had 3 wooden machinists chests and had to fix at least one drawer on all of them. I'm not sure that the glue they used and that drawer lock joint were a great combo.


----------



## wormil

That's what I wonder about ToddJB. But Gerstner used them for years and still uses them to my knowledge. I used them on a box for my kid and it's fine but only a year old.


----------



## bandit571

I wonder…does this..









Qualify as a tool box? Since that is what it is filled up with….only has 5 drawers…and a big flat area on top..


----------



## ToddJB

Rick, the one thing to consider with these is that it might not be the joint's fault, but rather the design of the drawers being able to be fully pulled out. Meaning there is a lot of opportunity to drop them and carelessly jam them back into their slots. Maybe a different joint would hold up better to that - I don't know. Just know that I've reglued a lot of these drawers.


----------



## JADobson

Got some more done on my Dutch chest. Chisel racks are in:









Can I ask for a favour from the group? Can you show me your hinges? This is what I've got and I'm not sure exactly how I want to mount it. 









Thanks.


----------



## wormil

Looking good.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

JA, I can post a couple pics of those same style hinges in a very old chest. The way the metal was formed and the lid works is kinda unusual, might work for your dutchy.


----------



## JADobson

Thanks smitty. No rush. My friendly neighbourhood Lee Valley only had one hinge in stock so I'm waiting a week or so for the second one.


----------



## theoldfart

JA, i used the same hinges.









Flush mounted on the back but no pics because i used a batten to support the lid when open.


----------



## Sylvain

Silicagel must be regenerated when saturated.

WIKI:
"Regeneration
Once saturated with water, the gel can be regenerated by heating it to 120 °C (250 °F) for 1-2 hours."

I guess, starting from dry state, the weight increases up to the saturation. Put it on a balance periodically.
Once saturated it gives no benefit any more.


----------



## Sylvain

The nice feature of the box pointed to by Rick in post #3250 is that it is double duty:
- travelling box and 
- wall cabinet if mounted on a french cleat.

more info on Matthias Wandel site and here .


----------



## JADobson

Thanks Old Fart. How do you like working with the Dutch chest? Do you wish you'd gone with the English chest?


----------



## theoldfart

JA, I have both. The Dutch and s a small one that I can carry(somewhat). It has marking and measuring tools, chisels, block, shoulder, rabbet, side rabbet and the like planes, small drills, and small and joinery saws. The English has everything else. They both work well for my needs.


----------



## JADobson

Nice. I'm building the large Dutch chest. My shop is quite small (10'x15') so I'm thinking this was a better choice for me than the English chest. I like being able to see everything in it. I imagine I'll put it on casters so I can roll it around my space if needed


----------



## JADobson

Got some paint on today.


----------



## wormil

I like that color JA


----------



## TheFridge

One day. Oh One day. I will actually post a project here.


----------



## JADobson

Finished up Dutch Tool Chest. Pretty happy with it.


----------

