# Cello neck repair. Best approach?



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

My nephew's cello took a fall.


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

while you could look here, and maybe with good luck find someone who is attuned and experienced in cello repair, I'd advise you to expand your horizons and look at

http://www.stewmac.com/

Mostly guitar repairs, but of a serious bent, which means that the lurkers are into other stringed instruments.

If you live in a town with maybe 1Million population, chances are you got one to three stringed instrument repairer

Guitar repairs may be easier to find than cello reparation experts. and hack guitar repairers may even be easier to find.

Take your time, instrument repair folks are out there, and may not pop up immediately on a goodle search.

Maybe even call yer local orchestra and see whom they recommend.

Good luck. Please don't let a wood butcher "have at er" eh?

Eric


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## carver1942 (Sep 25, 2013)

Best to have a pro repair it. The angle of the neck is VERY critical. Whatever you do, don't use modern glues or epoxy on this joint. In gluing up instruments hide glue is the ONLY glue that should be used. If adjustments need to be made to the repaired joint it can be taken apart again when hide glue is used. To use modern glues will ruin the instrument.
Ed


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

It looks like a pretty straightforward repair and you would be well qualified to do it. For any tricky ins and outs check here. From what I can see it looks like a student cello, $400- $500 new inc. bow and bag. $100 repair.

http://www.maestronet.com/


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I would replace the entire neck after attempting to glue it in place fails.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Hello Loren,

My experience with guitar building 40 or so years ago suggests to me that from what I see in the photo (its sideways, isn't it?) the heel of the neck is cross grain so it wouldn't take much of a fall to crack it. My fix would be to glue the break together with a clamp and let it dry. I would then drill a hole in the bottom of the heel and insert and glue a hardwood dowel for strength. The hole in the bottom of the heel should barely touch the bottom of the fingerboard. The dowel should be about 1/2" dia. A regular drill bit will probably be long enough. If not, you may have to do some Internet searches for something like an "aircraft" drill or weld an extension to the drill shaft. To hide the dowel hole in the bottom of the heel, cover the bottom of the heel with some black veneer or the like.

Good luck!
Planeman

P.S. If you need to weld an extension to a drill shaft, that is something I can do for you. E-mail me at [email protected]


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

Loren,

Sounds like you probably have your answer. I am no instrument repair expert but using hide glue seems wise since it is reversible. And I would agree that adding a hardwood dowel after the glued joint dries would add strength.

Hopefully you can get it repaired, probably even stronger than it was originally.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Loren. Planemans advice is sound. I had the exact same thing happen to one of my hand built classicals in college and my teacher told me to do exactly as planeman an said, minus the hardwood dowel. I glued it, clamped it and it was fine the next day. It's going on 7 years now and that crack has never resurfaced. This was way before I ever had anything to do with woodworking too


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Thanks everyone.

The cello strings pull the neck up more than on a guitar
neck I think… and this may be why the previous
repair attempts his parents had done at the music store
failed.


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## Kryptic (Nov 8, 2013)

what if the original, neck was made by a newbie

that said I would revert back to, the first poster

otherwise, I would consider a double sided keyway, perhaps even a tapered one, in which the neck would lock itself into place at some point in time


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

"The cello strings pull the neck up more than on a guitar neck I think… and this may be why the previous repair attempts his parents had done at the music store failed."

One other option that would be stronger but more involved would be to remove the fingerboard and - after gluing the crack shut - drilling a hole all the way from the bottom of the heel, though the cracked area, and up through the fingerboard area. Then insert a threaded rod with nuts at both ends. When tightened, there would be almost no way the heel of the neck could come loose! Then re-glue the fingerboard back and patch the bottom of the heel where the hole was drilled with a matching piece of thin wood and re-finish the area. Or . . . take a mold from the cello and cast a new cello in steel! It would really be strong then! 

Planeman


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## Kryptic (Nov 8, 2013)

couldnt that be solved, by putting a sliding dovetail, that locks onto the neck, much like Sam Malloof did to his rocking chairs, like a tapered keyway ?

I dont know the answer


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## Kryptic (Nov 8, 2013)

every violin I have ever held, fell apart shortly after loosening the strings ?

perhaps most are junk


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

I have no idea what type of cello this is, but I can tell you from purchasing one for my daughter a few years back that most of these instruments cost more than most of my tools do! (seriously!). I love saving money and love tinkering and repairing things myself. However, when she had problems with her cello (cost new was in the $4-5,000 range), I've taken it into the local repair shop. It's just too costly for me to screw up and they know all the tricks at the shop.

That being said, it sounds like the local shop this cello was taken to needs some experienced help, so I'm not sure I would trust them again.


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## carver1942 (Sep 25, 2013)

I don't know the value of this cello, but even a student grade is valuable. The repairs that are being suggested will render it junk if not done properly. The height and angle of the strings to the finger board, and the centering of the neck and finger board to the cello body are very critical. To the original poster, do yourself a favor and have it repaired by a professional, it is not a job for a home repair. A bad repair will possibly ruin it's tone, and future resale value or even make it unplayable. I in no way mean to offend those making suggestions, but I have seen the results of repairs gone afoul. These repairs require special tools and gauges that home craftsmen are unlikely to have no matter their skill level. 
regards
Ed


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I have read Loren's posts here over the years and it is my opinion that Loren has the skills and most likely the knowledge to do as good a job or better than most instrument repair personnel. While most instrument repair people are very knowledgeable and are good woodworkers, they are not wizards. I've known a few. As this is a student instrument and not an Amati and the beak is where it is, I feel the repairs are within Loren's capabilities. Just my two cents.

Planeman


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Thanks Planeman.

It's true, I'm totally confident I can make this repair as I've
built several acoustic guitars and a lot of furniture over the 
years.

The cello is a $600 or so model and while the best approach
might be to replace the neck, it's more hassle than I
want to go to for now.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

You could always just tell your nephew to join chorus instead.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

If the kid is a keen player, it's time for an upgrade. The tone of a second hand cello and bow in the $1000-$1500 range would probably knock him out! Inspect for faults and repairs.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

" it's more hassle than I
want to go to for now."

Being in Austin(live music capitol of the world), and a carpenter, it is like having a pickup truck when your friends are moving.. I know this feeling.

Send them this of the carbon fiber cello… kid can stand on it if he wants.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I glued the heel together. I think the first glue repair in the 
same location failed so I had little faith it would not fail
again. I drilled a 3/8" hole with a spurred spade bit, 
drilled the center deeper for a screw, installed a screw
and filled with a tapered ebony plug from a guitar 
fingerboard offcut.

The masking tape indicates the bridge position.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

That'll do it!!!

Planeman


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

I was going to suggest exactly that but thought I would get shot down as an " in coming heathen! " Your repair is in keeping with the economic realities at entry level repair. Many times a proper repair is worth more than the fiddle. Many entry level fiddles aren't built with HHG or polished with violin varnish. That can make repair work a real chore.

You don't need to mark the bridge position. Use the ff notches. The inner notches line up with the center of the bridge feet. The outer notches are in line with the front of the feet










Bolt on neck for air travel. This is a new trend. My avatar bass.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Aaah! An expert chimes in!

Most guitars today have their necks attached to the body in a similar fashion, usually with a tapered dovetail, but they are glued in so they are not removable. Dovetails are quickly and precisely made with today's modern machines and being able to assemble the body without the neck eases and speeds production. The old style was to build the neck into the body when gluing up the sides. My guitar that I built from a book back in the early 1970s had the old style neck. I guess when all of the violin, cello, and guitar building was going on in years past, travel in airplanes wasn't a problem  .

Planeman


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Thanks for the input.

Have you seen the guitars with the folding necks?

Apparently the sound is acceptable and tuning isn't as
big a problem as we might expect.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Thanks for the vote of confidence Planeman. I wouldn't touch a truly valuable instrument for a repair. Setup, yes.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Wow! Those things have come a long way! Secured by the strap button, very slick.

Some airline friendly basses have a hole in the "C" bout big enough to fit a hand thru for a sound post adjustment after re-assembly. The cover is held by magnets.

http://www.voyageairguitar.com/the-experience/videos/how-it-works-video


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I'm not so sure about that folding arrangement Texcaster. I see the folded neck resting on the bridge. Looks to me like the potential for a nasty cracked face to that guitar if the neck is forced into it during travel. That would make me VERY nervous! Maybe there is a special made case for that type of guitar.

Planeman


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