# Best way to remove dust pimples from top coats of polyurethane?



## Cornholesgalore (Oct 9, 2015)

Just looking for opinions on what you guys do to remove dust pimples from polyurethane. I've tried dust proofing my room, but if it isn't dust it is lint from my clothes, it's tough to win. I was just wondering if someone had a method of removing the pimples. I was thinking a dremel set to a lower speed with a 2000 grit bit on it, then using turtle wax and a car buff. Has anyone tried this? If not, what has worked for you guys?

Going bonkers on these pimples!


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## nerdbot (Sep 3, 2014)

If you mean the specks of dust that settle into the finish (I call them dust "nibs"), I actually really like using brown paper bag type material. I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. Using it like sandpaper gets most of the nibs for me, and for the more stubborn ones, a little extra time buffing the area gets those.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

I second nerdbot,I use brown paper bags from the supermarket. I also use a satin varnish which helps and I wipe it on.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I have a 18" window fan that I use to "suck" over the finish area to keep stuff moving/floating in the air and not land on the finish. 
A sort of laminar flow clean room … or at least a clean area in this case.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The kraft paper (paper bag) trick really works well, though the varnish does have to be fairly cured to use it.


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

ditto on the brown paper bag. Fine sandpaper - like 600 or so also can work.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

0000 steel wool and then paste wax.


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

YEP



> 0000 steel wool and then paste wax.
> 
> - dhazelton


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## Cornholesgalore (Oct 9, 2015)

Thanks for the advice guys, I never even thought of using a brown bag!


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Be sure to wad it up real well, if you don't the corners can leave streaks in the finish.


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## RogerM (Oct 31, 2011)

I use 800 to 1200 grit sandpaper from Klingspor followed by finishing wax put on with 0000 steel wool then buff.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

You could try wet sanding with the finish on future coats. The paper bag on the last coat.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

The brown bag also works fine for final sharpening!
I have used it after reading what HorizontalMike wrote about it.


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## RocketDogs (May 5, 2014)

You may also try wetting down the floor in your shop …. booth or finishing area with water to hold down the dust 
.....I do it with my spray gun filled with water before spraying or finishing

This may help….hope it does
RocketDogs


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I like that idea of wetting the floor. Doesn't the floor get slick enough to be a hazard?


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

800-1200 sandpaper with a light touch. One or two passes usually does it. It cuts the top off dust nibs, etc.


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## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

If the topcoat is fully cured, you can smear it with salmon and then put it in a room with a half dozen cats. Their scratchy little tongues leave a smooth, nib-free surface, and also it's adorable.

But if you want to do things the hard way a brown paper bag does work pretty well.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

ADHDan great idea! Also, before worming your dog, you can have them butt scoot over the table.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Posts #16 and 17. HAHAHA

I use lacquer. Dries quick enough to eliminate those flying dust particles that are drawn to wet finishes…....... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Could the applicator be part of the problem?
I use the lambs wool applicators that Lowe's sells for vanishing floors. I cut them up into project sized pieces, vacuum off any loose pieces from the cutting, and apply poly with those cut off pieces.
I you use water based poly you can wash them before they get hard.
I won't go back to rags!


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## RocketDogs (May 5, 2014)

> I like that idea of wetting the floor. Doesn t the floor get slick enough to be a hazard?
> 
> - Fred Hargis


Fred….I'm on cement …so a light mist of water on a porous surface has never been a problem for me….I would think that if you were on a solid surface like tile or linoleum…..yes that might be quite slippery….and a hazard….but frankly I never thought of it….good thinking on your part

BTW Fred…. I always enjoy your posts and comments

RocketDogs


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I am a proponent of using single edge razor blades for scrapers. If you want a glass smooth polyurethane finish the easy way, just let the poly finish dry THOROUGHLY and then scrape it with a NEW razor blade until there is no gloss left. Then finish with rubbing down with 0000 (four ought) steel wool. This will bring the surface to a mild sheen. If you want a mirror finish, hand rub with car finish polishing compound and wax. It really doesn't take all that long.

Planeman


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

You can also use Novus plastic polish available in different grades for other polishing requirements.

I have used it with amazing results!


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