# They need to rework the way it sits on WorkSharp 3000



## skeeter

it looks like cast and machined aluminum


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## OttawaP

I owned a worksharp at one time. Freaking amazing for chisels and small blades. Fast, plenty accurate and sweet sharp. But when it came to plane blades…...disappointing. It's too much to ask for a 6" disk to sharpen a 2 1/4"+ blade. Between the inner rotation vs the outer rotation and the problems as mentioned above….it was a no go. Sold it to buy a barely used Tormek, and between touch ups with water stones as needed, all blades I own including my jointer knives are as good as it gets.


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## knothead

I bought a Worksharp 3000 over a year ago and have been disappointed in it from the first time I turned it on…The little gearbox bangs and clangs like an old dodge 318 with loose lifters. It will only really sharpen small chisels and even then it has never lived up to the hype. Don't even mention a plane iron….I considered the wide blade attachment but it looked cheap and very expensive for what it is. Broke down and bought a Tormek T7 and OMG!! Now *that* is a sharpening system!

Chris


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## glassyeyes

I have had the WS3000 with the wide-blade attachment about 4 months; I would also give it a mixed review. The chisel-sharpening port on the underside has proven difficult to align to get a square edge, and the little patch of sandpaper for deburring is a bit of a joke. I inherited a large granite plate, and I'd gotten a Veritas Mark II honing guide for a present, so I combine them. I use the WorkSharp for rough cutting, then finish up on the granite place with several grades of PSA silicone carbide paper. I just picked up a low-speed grinder from Grizzly, and I think I'll be moving my rougher grinding to that unit; it has a 1 1/2" wide medium grit white wheel on the right, and cuts fairly quickly without burning-one of the issues I hoped the WorkSharp would solve. I just added a brief review of the Grizzly grinder today.


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## Eric_S

I actually think the underside is great but I have noticed the width setting on it needs to be pretty tight against the chisel for square. I tighten it so I can't move the chisel at all up and down and then little by little loosen until I can just barely move the chisel with little difficulty. As for the burning, i haven't had any. Do you very briefly touch it to the wheel and then back it off or do you keep the blade against tfor a bit? They suggest touching it for only 1-2 second durations before backing it off.


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## Jairman

I bought a WS3000 a year ago after seeing the video and hearing all the praise. I am not sure if I got a bad one or if I just don't know how to use this thing, but I cannot seem to get a square end to my chisels. I have resorted to tipping the chisel a bit to get it close and then I go to my stones and honing guide to get them the rest of the way. Considering the cost of these, I would have expected better results. I was tempted to get the wide blade attachment in hopes that it would work better, but I hate to throw good money after bad.


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## StumpyNubs

Thought you may like to see my video of the Upgrades I made to the Work Sharp including one that allows you to use Tormek jigs AND how to use cheap buffing compound instead of sandpaper instead of diamond wheels and compounds:


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## Desert_Woodworker

> Thought you may like to see my video of the Upgrades I made to the Work Sharp including one that allows you to use Tormek jigs AND how to use cheap buffing compound instead of sandpaper instead of diamond wheels and compounds:
> 
> - StumpyNubs


+1 great project


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