# Remote Power Switch for 2 HP Harbor Freight Dust Collector



## woodjunkie (Feb 4, 2011)

I have just finished installing my HF dust collector and all the associated ducting. Now I am looking for a Remote to turn it off and on. All the remote switches I find for 110v state they work on motors up to 1 and a 1/2 HP. What brand of remote do you LJs use on your HF 2HP dust collectors and have you had any issues with them. Have any of you used the Shop Fox Remote.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Long Ranger on my 2HP HF DC. Works just fine.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I just recieved my Long Ranger III. Have not had an opportunity to use it yet. Just wanted to give you options.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I just set up the Grizzly 2HP canister (220 v) DC and am "plumbing" my new basement shop….

I'd love to go remote, but for $60, I can walk the 10' to the switch a few times

I'd likely have to walk just as far to find the remote :^)


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I usually wear my tool belt, while in the shop. Two remotes (air filter and DC) are clipped on the belt.

If I didn't do that, I'd simply never find-much less use-them.


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## wmodavis (Aug 28, 2007)

I used an inexpensive remote Christmas light switch that I got at Ace on sale for less than $10. I used that to activate a 120VAC-30Amp contactor which is in line with the power to my 2HP DC. This has worked like a champ for well over 7 years.

Disadvantage - I had to do some electrical construction but it was more or less trivial.
Advantage - COST and reliability


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I went with the Christmas light remote option. It works great and costs little!

Maybe you could just install one of those "clapper" switches? Just clap your hands and the collector comes on…

World's best woodworking show is now online!


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## woodjunkie (Feb 4, 2011)

Hey Stumpy the Clapper is just what my 4 year old granddaughter (the one cleaning my shop in my profile pic) needs. She would really give it a workout!!!!!


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

The outdoor light remote for around $10.00, or less works just fine. I tested the HF DC with an amp probe and, mine only drew 14 amps on start up. The remote I bought was rated at 15. 
I glued a rare earth magnet on mine. Resides on the TS mostly, but it's movable to any other tool.


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## 4buster (Mar 13, 2011)

I have been using this http://www.smarthome.com/4003/X10-RC6500-16-Device-X10-Base-Unit-with-Keychain-Remote-for-2-Devices/p.aspx with my harbor freight collector for 6 months with no problems so far.


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

Agree with neil, another vote for Long Ranger III. Works fine on my HF 2HP DC.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Bil Davis, I would appreciate more details/pics on your set up.
Bill


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

never understood why anyone would want a remote control for DC activation when this is avavialble:

http://www.ivacswitch.com/index.action

activate the tool, the switch activates the DC and 6 seconds after the tool is deactivated, the DC is deactivated. even allows for tool and DC to be on different circuits, unlike the lesser priced but still impressive c-man auto switch:

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-auto-switch/p-00924031000P


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Because:
a) It's only rated to 1HP. Might, maybe, work with the HF 1.5, but just barely
b) you have to change plugs for all the tools, as well as opening blast gates or moving the flex hose
c) Costs $48 or so


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## Gerry1 (Jul 12, 2009)

I've been using the Shop Fox 110V Dust Collection Remote Switch for BOTH my HF dust collector and my shopvac based system. It's been 2-3 years, and so far, these remotes have worked consistently. The only issue is the requirement for a 9volt battery. I hope this is of help.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

brtech..

1)the ivac pro is rated for units up to 20A, 220v http://www.ivacswitch.com/default.action;jsessionid=A07C6D4F282F6ED2F37C8B6B1E804255?itemid=50)

2) the ivac pro is set up to have multiplke tool activating switches talk to multiople slave tools (DCs)
3) while they aren't cheap, they work well. and when my ivac switch died unexpectedly, 2 years after i purchased it, mbright stepped up with a replacement. in this instance, you get what you pay for. and no lost remote fobs.


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## woodjunkie (Feb 4, 2011)

Thanks everyone.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Bought mine a few years ago at Woodcraft. Works good on my Delta but not on the HF(not rated for it anyway)


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## TJU (Feb 16, 2011)

I have had this for about 2 years now and it works great. It is rated for 220 volts. 2 years ago it was only $60.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005117/8273/220V-Remote.aspx


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

You know, in addition to the electrical safety issues and tripping breakers and all that, I believe there's a risk of damaging an electrical motor if you're using a cord or connector that's rated for less than a machine's amperage. It will overheat, wear down, and eventually burn out the motor because it's not getting the amperage it needs, especially under peak loads.

So I question the wisdom of running an expensive dust collector (or even a HF !) through something designed for Christmas lights, probably light gauge wiring and rated for 10 amps.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

toolie, you could easily make your won for far less money.
You just need a current sensor and solid state relay.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

@Suobs: My "Christmas" lite starter($14.95) is rated at 13 amps and works just fine on my HF d/c. No overheating,no tripping the breaker. My $60 plus from Woodcraft is only rated for "up to 1.5 HP" (no amp rating shown) and the cord doesn't look as big as the one I bought at HD. And it won't even turn on the h/f d/c.
I don't see an issue with it.


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

Just sayin'! The HF d/c is supposedly 20A. The Woodcraft remote has a 20A breaker on it but yes they don't say the amp rating, but it should depend on wire gauge.

What do you mean it "won't even turn on" your h/f? Why not?


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

It says up to 1.5 HP on the WC. The HF is 2HP. I tried it and it wouldn't even turn the motor over. I don't know why it wouldn't work. I use it on a 1 HP Delta and it works fine. I've been using the "Christmas Lite" every day on the HF and it seems to work just fine.
Maybe this is like some of the HF stuff sometimes you find a rare gem????


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

Heck, I don't know. Horsepower is usually a marketing gimmick and I don't see how it factors into the electrical specs for a device like a remote. At 110V, 20A full load and 0.65 efficiency, any electric motor would be about 2 HP. But I don't know how the remote would know the HP - its electrical specs say it should work. Are you sure the startup load isn't tripping the breaker on the remote? Other tools on the same circuit?


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

It's never tripped the breaker and it's on the same circuit as my battery chargers.
All I know is it works.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 18, 2013)

I agree with soubs. I once upon a time had a well with a 3 HP pump. The well went dry and I had to dig a new one next too it but deeper. Because it was deeper I had to put in a 5 HP pump. The well digger didn't mention any thing to me about conductor size. Three years later the well service guy who I came to replace the motor told me that if I didn't dig a trench and lay a larger conductor, he'd be back in another three years. It cost way less to have him lay new wire than to buy the pump. That doesn't even include the labor for pulling the old pump and installing the new one. Damage doesn't always happen immediately. If you live in an area that suffers "brownouts" you are at greater risk.


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

Yes look at the manual for any corded power tool you've bought in recent years - there's a table about the gauge and length of extension cords - with warnings. Like this: http://www.magers.org/handy/ext_cords.html. The HF is 20A and you might be putting it thru something intended for 12A. (I say "might" because you don't know the gauge - power supply cords are supposed to be rated at 80% of the power supply, so it might have the guage for 15A).

Just to be clear, I'm not an engineer and I'm also a little mystified by the HF thing. It's true that horsepower is often a gimmick (overstated to make the tool sound more impressive), but on the other hand all of the switches you guys are talking about that are rated for 110-115V 20A (Long Ranger, WoodRiver, and iVAC) specifically say not to use them with horsepower higher than 1.5. I think the problem with the HF collector is that it has high peak amperage on startup and probably should have been wired for 220V. Note that iVAC specializes in these switches but even they they don't make a 110V switch that solves the 2 horsepower problem. To legally make an approved switch it needs to comply with electrical standards, and if the tool pulls higher amperage than the switch (which should have a breaker on it), the breaker will trip. (This is a different problem from damaging the motor). Why the HF machine doesn't trip house circuit breakers I don't know (I have one that I use on a 20A circuit).

iVAC does make an expensive electrical box addon to their switches that they say should be installed by an electrician (http://www.ivacswitch.com/default.action?itemid=54 and http://www.ivacswitch.com/default.action?itemid=55). As near as I can tell, this is the only solution to the HF problem. I wouldn't call using an unrated or low-amperage switch with no breaker, or using a generic light switch that doesn't say it CAN'T be used a solution either problem. There could be something wrong with the breakers or you may not always be getting to the peak amperage.

At any rate I don't use a remote switch with my HF. The only time I use it anyway is when I'm doing something that produces big wood chips (very small % of the time). For dust-only stuff like sanding, sawing, and most routing I use a big shop vac.


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

Here's a better table that goes up to 20A. Strangely enough it's from the HF 2hp dust collector manual:


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

My d/c is hardwired no extention cord on a 20a breaker and I have had no problems. Starts easily doesn't run hot works good has never tripped a breaker, I think I'll keep it.


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

I'm not getting how you're using plug-in remote switches if the d/c is hardwired into the circuit.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I meant it was plugged into it's own circuit . The cord on the d/c into the remote that is plugged into the socket that is wired back to the breaker box 20a circuit. 12 ga wire to the outlet.

Like I've said works good and it's 40 bucks (at least) cheaper. Must not be too bad a set up, others are using them too.


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

So Howie, nobody's criticizing your setup, in fact it sounds pretty cool and I wouldn't mind trying the switch you have myself. Can you send the model/mrf or a web link for your Christmas light switch so I can try to find one online?

But I was still pointing out that whether it's an extension cord or other "power supply cord" (like a switch box or power strip with cable), having small gauge wire in the mix between the machine and the outlet reduces the amperage to the machine . . . and that can be a problem. The switch you said is rated for 13 amps, suggesting it has fairly light gauge wire. Even the Woodcraft, rated for 20A, has only 14 gauge according to Woodcraft.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@Suobs - guess you missed my review, huh?
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3268


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

Are we talking about the same thing? The one at your link says 10A. Howie says his is 13A.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Works for me. i use it daily…today, yesterday, the day before…


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

Well, if they don't work for me, my wife will love them for the Christmas lights . . .


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I have been starting/stopping the shop vac on one switch, box fan on the second one and the dust collector on the third switch. No problems encountered so far. The price was right. 

I did mention the dust collector is on a dedicated 20 amp circuit with no other users. A 30 amp 12 ga extension cord runs from the receptacle to the motor power cord.


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## Suobs (Oct 20, 2010)

There's also a switch on Amazon by Woods that's 13A with 16 ga wire . . .

Anyway, I also have the d/c on a 20A circuit, nothing else running at same time, with 10 ga ext cord.


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## Foster10 (Apr 4, 2013)

wow… the ivac solution looks impressive! THANKS!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

My problem is that I'm running a 2 HP Grizzly DC and they are 220 volt only (you actually can't have a true 2 HP motor run on a 110 volt circuit with a 15 amp plug, like the HF has… but companies have been playing games with HP ratings since Black Beauty was a foal).

the ivac system for 220 volt appliances is some kind of crazy pricey…

One of the Shop Fox models had a recall back in '09

There was also a write up on SMC about a guy who had smoke come out of his LongRanger.

$89 for the Wood River 220 volt remote is also too pricey for me…

So my solution was to by $12 worth of 12-2 braded extension cable (with ground) from HD and to mount the motor starter on a centrally located post at chest height and within reach of my TS and just two steps from my SCMS, pl.aner and jointer…. not perfect, but at least I don't have to step over flex ducts, and bend down to push da button where it used to be mounted, right on the motor.

Keep an eye on your equipment and be safe!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I don't bother with a wireless remote. I just removed the switch from the DC and relocated it next to the saw switch using a length of portable electric cord (#12-3). You can even wire more switches in parallel for use at other machines.


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## LoydMoore (Jan 16, 2013)

Here is what I use on both of my HF dust collectors.









Seem to work just fine. Amazon has several brands in the same price range.

I have my controler hanging from thr cieling on a cord right in the middle of work area cleaned by the DC. I never lose it.


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## JamesT (Mar 1, 2013)

My son uses a Shop Fox 120V remote on his HF 2HP duct collector and has never had a problem.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I super-glued my remote to a strong magnet from Harbor Freight and put it next to my table saw on-off switch. VERY convenient! Oh, and my remote is the one from Amazon mentioned above for $13. It is heavily made and handles my large Delta 115 volt vacuum easily.

Planeman


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## peter_horn (Sep 22, 2015)

> I have had this for about 2 years now and it works great. It is rated for 220 volts. 2 years ago it was only $60.
> 
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005117/8273/220V-Remote.aspx
> 
> - TJU


Just to clarify, the 220V Woodriver remote will work ok on a 110V circuit with a 110V dust collector? (as long as the plug has one | prong and one - prong)


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

I've been using this for a while. Works great and cost $10 at Lowes









Wow. This is an old thread. lol


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I'd be hard pressed to believe the HF is a true two horse. Generally, a two horse would be a 240 volt collector. I suspect the brand new one in my shop is actually a horse and a half. I'd go from there to find my remote.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Sounds like the usual sales garbage. Everything I know of needs ten gauge to deal with thirty amps.



> "A 30 amp 12 ga extension cord runs from the receptacle to the motor power cord."
> 
> - MT_Stringer


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

That's the same approach I use on my three horse and my horse and a half. I have hundred pound pull rare earth magnets on them and the grip well.

I don't like the drop in efficiency I get with Y's and gates (it was a VERY noticeable drop), so I just swap hoses at the cyclone. I works as fast as switching gates. I have ropes hanging from eyehooks on the ceiling tied around the hose for the sanding station and table saw, another for the jointer and planer, and just reach out and grab the one I want.



> I don t bother with a wireless remote. I just removed the switch from the DC and relocated it next to the saw switch using a length of portable electric cord (#12-3). You can even wire more switches in parallel for use at other machines.
> 
> - MrRon


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