# Finishing with Paste Wax



## skeemer (Dec 5, 2011)

I am finishing up a small side table that I had completed awhile back and I wanted to finish it off with a paste wax coat. I've tried looking for some detailed explanations on how to put the wax on and buff it out, but haven't had much luck. I've tried putting it on twice now with disappointing results both times. The first time I wiped it on, let it haze for about 20-30 minutes, and buffed it out with some cloth, the coat came out uneven and had wipe marks in it. I tried it again last night and used 0000 steel wool to wipe/buff it and the steel wool just clogged up and it turned out even worse.

So, can anyone give me a step-by-step on how to use paste wax? I know it is probably very simple but I am just not getting it. I'm using Minwax paste wax by the way.

Thanks!


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## mds2 (Jan 28, 2013)

I think you are letting it sit too long. I never go more than 10 mins. Wipe it on in little swirls, let it set ten mins, wipe it off with little swirls. Usually 2 coats.


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## Finisherman (May 3, 2013)

I aree with the above post. I would also add the following: If the wax hardens to the point where it's impossible to buff, you can always wash it off with a rag soaked in mineral spirits or naphtha. Then try again, but begin buffing as soon as the wax becomes hazy. Knowing when to begin buffing takes a little bit of practice. Thinning the wax with a bit of naphtha or mineral spirits might help you in applying a thinner coat. For future reference, I'd seal the wood with a coat or two of dewaxed shellac, if you haven't done so already on this project, prior to applying your wax. This will prevent the wax from soaking into the wood where it will cause a refinishing headache, should that ever be desired. The shellac will also do a much better job of protecting the wood than wax alone. Finally, never use liquid or aerosol furniture pollish on your waxed surface. The petrolleum distillates in the pollish will dissolve and smear the wax.

Here is the procedure I'd use:
1). Seal the entire surface with one, or better yet, two coats of dewaxed shellac. 
2). Use 0000 steel wool to apply your paste wax, while simultaneously smoothing the surface. You can also use a soft cotton cloth in place of the steel wool.
3). When the wax first becomes hazy, begin buffing the suface with a clean, lint-free cotton cloth until you're pleased with the results.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Finisherman is right, you should follow that procedure. If you're trying to wax wood without a seal coat on it it will take 10 or more coats just to fill the areas where it soaks in.


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## nzmerlin (Apr 9, 2013)

Ahhh that's where I have gone wrong in the past…Dewax Shellac.
Must sea if it's in NZ.. Cheers Fisherman.

*Merlin*


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

I use Johnsons. Let it build as long as you want. The best solvent is the next coat of wax. After a few coats, you will have the needed build-up that will only require a quick wipe (several applications require less time in total than your alternatives).

I don't know how they do it but I find it is also very good at removing any stain residue. And just a personal opinion, I opt for poly on flat surfaces that have any chance of seeing wear


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Lambswool bonnet on a slow speed buffer is the best for buffing off paste wax.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Yup, you were letting it dry TOO long.

Like said above, it only takes about 4 or 5 minutes for it to *cloud over*, then get to rubbing. Paste wax, like paint, dries with time, and not very much time. When it gets dry it gets HARD (which is what you want, isn't it?). Back in the 1950's, we used this stuff to wax cars so I have had a lot of experience with it as a teenager with a car. Cleaned and waxed it so much that I eventually waxed through the paint and had to get it re-painted. It gleamed like a diamond all the time though!

Planeman


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## skeemer (Dec 5, 2011)

Thanks everyone! I will give this another shot this weekend and see how it turns out. Looking forward to finally putting it into service!


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Paste wax is not a finish, so what you see is what you get: bupkis. Poly or lacquer or even shellac is a finish.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Clint, I don't want to argue, but, paste wax is the original finish. Just not a very good one.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Weeeeelllllll , I unfortunately or fortunately I totally agree with Clint, Wax isnt a finish, just my .02 . I do however have to ask the obvious question, and that is "why" ? With all the good oils and finishes we have , WHY would anyone take all this time and effort to do a weak coating, that will not hold up and has to be renewed constantly, I'm sorry, but folks I just dont get it.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

I like to use wax where a surface will not see wear (table legs and such). It seals the pores, goes on much faster and there is none of that nasty finishing stuff that comes with poly (I hate the finishing aspect…put on poly, knock much of it down and deal with the residue before repeating after a long dry time).


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Hi Charles, I really don't want to argue with you, however. Furniture made 200 years ago would have been finished with wax as there were no other finishes available to the average person. I totally agree that it is not a good finish and these days should only be used as a protective coating on top of any one of dozens of quality finishes available.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Earlex , they also used tallow candles for light, that still doesnt make it a good choice today , the old timers used what they had for a finish ,but that doesnt make it a good choice today either ,but they also used alot of oils and shellacs ,and they also died from a fever, that a simple asprin would have prevented.
My question remains, WHY , I can take a good varnish oil and be done and never have to think about it again.

Not here to argue, and not going to , if wax suits you go for it, who am I to argue , but I bet gettin it to spray thru a Earlex will be a trick, ( no offense intended) LOL ,I'm outta here


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## skeemer (Dec 5, 2011)

Just a clarification, this is going overtop of 8 coats of wipe on poly.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Did you sand the last coat of poly with fine paper? I sand the surface, rub with 0000 steel wool, wipe with a clean cloth or vacuum, then apply the wax. You can rub it out pretty much immediately. Wax is really applied just for a tactile feel. You already have 8 coats of finish on it, so you are only trying to make the piece FEEL nice and cut down on the sheen, it isn't needed for protection. People always overapply wax. One coat is plenty.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I use Howards Walnut wax, which is a soft paste wax. I buff it with the grain using #0000 steel wool.
Specific to that type of wax, I let it sit for 30 minutes, then buff it off with a clean rag. It will haze up again, and after an hour or two, I do a final buffing with a fresh cloth to remove the swirl marks.

Charles,
I don't use wax for protection, because I wax over two coats of lacquer. I just use it to smooth a sprayed finish if needed, and to soften a sheen that has become too glossy. It also tends to make a new piece look almost antique. It is an extra step, and I can certainly see why some people are turned off by that. For me, it is a relaxing final step to christen a piece before it comes inside. Like smashing a bottle over the bow of a ship, but with less mess.


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

There you go folks. I think you all assumed the wax was going on an unfinished surface.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

CharlesNeil I think the answer to your question is because as woodworkers we always want to try it at least once. Hoping that it is the answer or missing thing in our projects to make it pop or shine, even though most will tell you move on, I am that way with Boiled Linseed oil, I love it and use it alot but everyone tells me it sucks.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Charles and Earlex … I use a Finishing Wax hand applied with 0000 steel wool to get rid of the little bumps and nids that I can feel on the surface … If I only use the steel wool I can see the swirlies … Am I reading this corectly that I'm wasting my time to get that smoothe as a baby's botton finish??


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Grumpy - if you're applying the wax over a finish, you're doing it right.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Oh yeah, I should have mentioned that … Yes this is the last step on any finish I put on shellac, Poly, or what ever.
Thanks,


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

From my exotic car detailing days, I can tell you that at least with car waxes (carnoubas) wipe on/wipe off has long been known to be just as protective as waiting for it to haze. And much easier to remove.

Don't really use was much on furniture, but I also don't wait to remove the excess, as it's a pain


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Grumpy , I also use a wax for a final feel, and in that capacity it does fine, I just don't use it as a end all finish,


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