# How to fasten temporarily



## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Greetings, everybody:

I'm working on a project (a hope chest) and want to fasten it together temporarily so we can live with it for awhile. I'm not sure about certain details, one of which being which veneer I want for the recessed panels. The joinery for the rails, stiles, and panels will be mostly tongue and groove and the case will go together with dowels. I was thinking about adding blue tape to tongues and dowels to tighten the joints hold until I'm ready to glue up. I'm sure there's a better way to do this and so I'm throwing it out to all you experts.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I would be concerned about residue from tape. Perhaps a ratcheting tie-down strap would work, or if you have a strap clamp, like the Bessey, that will work well.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Just remember this: There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

That's a good one Bruce. I'm going to remember it for sure.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

What you do, I think, depends a lot on how you ultimately intend to assemble it and, to some extent, the type of wood you are using. The first thing that comes to my mind is to use small dabs of hide glue in locations where it will be easy to sand/scrape it off later. Do not put it on mortise and tenons or dowels. Treat it like it is all butt joint assembly. Disassembly would be relatively easy with heat and moisture. Hot melt glue also comes to mind but, I'm not sure how residue might affect finial finishing. If there are any places that will be hidden or out of sight after final assembly, you might use a few pocket screws. The pockets could be filled later if needed.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> Just remember this: There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
> 
> - johnstoneb


Yep, will be telling the grandkids about the vintage tie straps that you used on it from "back in the day" that you purchased at an actual brick and mortar store using a plastic card that functioned as dollar based currency.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

I think I would use the straps with corner protection. No residue to worry about


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

> I think I would use the straps with corner protection. No residue to worry about
> 
> - ibewjon


I could be mistaken but, my impression was that the OP wants it to look as complete as possible while being temporarily connected. Would exposed straps be consistent with that?


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks all. I won't respond to every comment but I appreciate them all. And yes, although I neglected to say it, I wanted the project to look completed except for finishing while being able to disassemble and finish without too much difficulty.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Knock down hardware?


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## JohnMcClure (Aug 24, 2016)

If the joints are mallet-tight it may hold together without glue for a couple weeks. If they aren't mallet tight you could shim them with paper to tighten them up. But that totally depends on the construction.
Agreeing with Bruce, a lot of "temporary" items end up being permanent. We still use a craft table that is barely more than some 1/2" plywood on 1×2 legs with butt-joined 1×2 stretchers. I never expected it to last, but it's been 10 years.


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## Woodtodust (May 15, 2013)

How about pocket screws? They'll be on the inside, can easily be removed and will hold it together until you decide to glue it up. Just eight would do it. Then fill the holes when you're done.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

How about a few of these at inside corners. Small screws or even nails would leave only small out of sight holes to fill.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

If you can put tape in with the dowels or the rails and stiles, they are too loose, IMO. You might be able to get a thin piece of paper in the rail and stile joints but not in the dowel holes.

Why exactly do you want to do this? It isn't necessary for dry assembly.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Apparently I am a very confused person. I will work on that and then work some wood.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Tape residue is easily removed with mineral spirits. I normally rub down projects with mineral spirits before applying finish, it cleans up the dust, exposes scratches and glue that I missed and won't hurt a finish.

Double sided tape might work in some places if you just use a little, too much will give you headaches when trying to disassemble.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks for the details about tape. I'm also thinking that I could use dabs form a hot glue gun.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I advise against temporarily putting it together other than a dry fit before glue up. Make a decision on the panels and finish it for good.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

If I could make fast decisions I would have been a woodworker thirty five years ago instead of trying to be one now.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks everybody.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

If it were me, I would use a small dot roughly the size of a pencil eraser of Titebond adhesive. This will hold it together for viewing but will allow the joint to be broken with a little force. The glue can be scraped off for re-assembly and the final gluing. "Spot gluing" is the long time method for doing this and works well.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thank you. I had a kind of half formed thought about doing something like this although I didn't think the thought "Why not spot glue it?" I even thought of doing this with a hot glue gun. I appreciate the feedback.


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## jacksdvds (Jun 13, 2015)

> Yep, will be telling the grandkids about the vintage tie straps that you used on it from "back in the day" that you purchased at an actual brick and mortar store using a plastic card that functioned as dollar based currency.
> 
> - SMP


Heck, I remember when you spent real money out of your wallet. None there?, You didn't buy anything!


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

Just stopped at UPS to ship a package. They no longer accept cash! Plastic only.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

It's part of the grand plan.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Yes! Its the grand conspiracy!!! Add this one the thousands out there. ;-)


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Good for you. Properly brainwashed and darn proud of it.

Meanwhile, back to woodworking.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

You said you want to live with it for awhile. Does that mean you want to put it to use before it's permanently put together. Or just assembled dry fit. to see if what you want. I build Hope and Cedar Chest primarily, all built to order. If you want to dry fit it and put to use for awhile, then predrill holes and screw it together. you can always unscrew it, unassembled, prepare your glue joints, glue it together, then drill 3/8" holes to where your screws were and put in 3/8" dowels in the holes for additional strength and accent. But it's more work for you vs. finishing it before putting it in use. Here's a pic of one my builds,







This is a pic of a Hickory Hope Chest I'm currently in the building now for a client,


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks a lot for your comments. I don't intend to use the piece, no, I just wanted to look at it the way you might look at a painting that needed more work. And I appreciate the practical advice on how to do this. Because I'm such a no-nothing beginner I'm not sure how I would drill holes for dowels through existing holes. I'm sure I'll figure it out though.

I like the chest that you show here. I'm certainly not ready for all solid wood as you did here. I am a mere mortal after all. I just hope that in a couple of weeks I will be posting a picture or two of a hope chest that I made.

I'm curious. Is there anything going on inside the box? A box within the box or cedar or anything else? What kind of hinge or hinges did you use?

Thanks again.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

The hinges I use are 'piano hinges', 36" cut to length. The two lid supports I use are 'National' brand, right and left side. https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/casters-furniture-hardware/furniture-parts-hardware/national-hardware-reg-antique-brass-center-spring-lid-support/n208-686/p-1444448930190-c-13091.htm?tid=-3170911408068573780&ipos=2 on the inside of the chest most of my clients want a sliding tray, and half of them will add 'aromatic cedar lining'.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks WoodenDreams for the additional details. I'm working out the details and will be getting to work soon.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

'I'm not sure how I would drill holes for dowels through existing holes.'

You bring up an interesting method of doweling I often use. I often glue up panels and parts BEFORE doweling. AFTER the glue is dry, I drill for the dowels and then glue in the dowels. Obviously this doesn't work for hidden dowels like in an edge-to-edge panel glue up, but when it can be done, I find a LOT easier to handle the assembly this way. And I sometimes leave the dowels about 1/4" proud of the surface as I find them an interesting decoration. You can usually use an electric hand drill to drill the dowel holes. As long as the dowels are close to 90 degrees to the surface they look fine when they are cut off. Another hint: use a brad point drill bit to drill dowel holes. The sharp point makes sure the drill bit is started accurately and the drill bit doesn't wander off its position when starting to drill.


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## woodthaticould (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks for this Planeman. I am new to all this but I find myself favoring certain techniques and methods of assembly and I definitely like doweling. Also, I am on a painfully restricted budget and need to find the most economic way to do things well. As a result it's always hard to decide among tools for measuring and marking, which are obviously very important, tools for cutting, also kind of important, and actual material to measure, mark and cut.

Thanks again.


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