# Most Useful Shop Storage



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

*What are some of the shop storage/organizing solutions you've found most useful in your shop?*

As my wife and I close on our new house this week, I'm looking forward to moving into a new shop space (an actual garage/shop space, for those who know my back story, I'm excited for that).

Anyway, I like to think about a lot of things, and plan a lot of things out. That said, I know (from experience) that the shop is an ever-evolving space throughout time, as things change, get added, removed etc; just looking for some ideas to gather together and see what ideas I can come up with.

I had originally meant for this to be less about my situation, and more just a general "idea pot" for anyone to pull from, but in my case, some of the particulars are as follows:

New shop is a free-standing 24×30 garage, with 10' ceilings. It'll need insulating, more wiring and more lighting, so that'll be done first, but was thinking about doing horizontal drywall on the bottom (4') and a row of plywood (so 4' to 8' on the wall), and another 2' of drywall above that to finish off the wall. I figured this would give me a strip of plywood all around the shop that I could use to put stuff anywhere (not being reliant on studs for everything).

I don't have many power tools at the moment, but that's partially due to space, so I hope to get a few stationary tools to help with stock prep (I'll be getting my grandpa's old RAS and Planer out of storage once I get settled in).


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Unless your new shop space is absolutely huge, I highly recommend using mobile bases and rolling carts wherever possible. My shop is in 1/2 of a 2-car garage, and I couldn't operate without the ability to push things I'm not using out of the way.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Two words: French cleats.

Strong, versatlie and lets you maximize the space and flexibility of your wall space.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

I currently have a tool cabinet I built (see my projects). It holds handsaws, planes, squares, measuring tools, chisels etc. With some space for glues. Under my workbench I have a drawer unit with a side storage cabinet. This holds handtools, some drill bits and misc. The siide storage hold odd shaped and bulk items that I don't use often. I am currently working on a roll away toolbox to set an upper box on it That I previously made. These when finished should hold my handtools plus some extra. I still need clamp storage. I haven't found anything that I really like yet. I need a cabinet to store finishes in (preferably metal). I do have a small lumber rack to hold what lumber I have. I don't have access to the hardwood mills you have in the east and midwest so don't have a lot of lumber at anytime.
In your situation I would get on sketchup and plan out where you want tools situated that will give you an idea what you have for wall and floor space. Then throw ideas at the wall and when you get moved in. You'll have something to start from. Just remeber a plan is something to make changes to and from.


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

Congrats on your move, I agree with Charlie. For a smaller space (2 car garage and smaller) I like to keep as much on wheels as possible. My bench, tablesaw and some work surfaces/lower cabinets are the only things I have fixed and I would love to replace the cabinets with mobile versions when I can. I recently moved into a new house as well and one of the first things I did after cleaning everything out of the garage and scrubbing the oil/gas smell out of the concrete was to hang wall cabinets on french clets on one of the walls. Well after hanging new lights, don't underestimate the value of good lighting in your space. That let me get most of my stuff out of boxes and into the cabinets which helps a ton and gives me a better idea for space. Now I just need to build myself a wall mount tool chests for all my hand tools. I also plan on removing a wall of peg board and replacing it with a couple rows of french clets when i get a change which should help tremendously as well. I'm not a peg board fan as it's not well suited for heavy things like clets are.


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## RogerM (Oct 31, 2011)

Here are a few ideas from my shop that I have found to be very useful:




























Roger


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I have been very happy with the cabinets I built for my garage/shop. It is a one car affair with a lot of stuff in it…just no car!

Lots of words and pictures here.
My Garage/Shop Makeover
http://lumberjocks.com/MT_Stringer/blog/36493

Hope you get some inspiration.
Mike


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I have 6 of these organizers for keeping nuts&bolts, screws, small parts, never knew how useful they were until I used one,then bought 5 more with smaller trays.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

So Mos I think you only use hand tools, In which case I recommend a full wall of french cleats which works great for me. I did not skimp on making the tool wall. My wall surface is 3/4 ply wood. Sealed with wiping varnish. on it I have 4 by 16 feet of french cleats made from 3/4 oak. spaced 6 inches apart But take a good look at Red's shop.
(I'm still building wall hangers. Next up is a better plane till and a combination plane till.

I have power tools (Table Saw, Miter Saw, small band saw, drill press) on wheels.

If you are not parking a car in you shop do lay down foam board toped with plywood. Do this at least around your workbench and hand tools. Keeps the feet warm and is more forgiving when you accidentally drop that chisel.
I have one bay with a wood floor and the other is concrete. I have a wall with end pocket doors separating the two.
Clean wood working is done on the wood floor side. Dirty metal work, e.g. restoration, sharpening, etc. is on the concrete side. I also store chemicals in the concrete side. Garage is heated in the winter. I may some day move all the power tools into the concrete floor side.

(I have a tenant apartment above this garage and if we have tenants in the winter they park in the concrete floor side. so I have to be able to move things around to allow this.

Installing a garage heater and keep the shop around 50 in the winter, will help with the glues, stains, water stones. It will also keep the shop a little drier.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I have a small shop, and putting cabinets on the walls would effectively reduce the size, so I hang a lot of things on the walls themselves. I find being able to see most of my tools makes it a lot easier for me to keep track of them.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

as others mentioned - mobility is important.

But also consider the base/stand for your equipment. When I had my dewalt planer - I bought the metal stand for it. which had a shelf and wheels which I kept all my nailers and air tools on but it is a spacce waster.

My Miter saw is on one of these cabinets- from Sams Club









also consider lumber storage - and uising the space over the garage door.

Speaking of the garage - my house has a typical set up of a 2 car garage with 1 car garage beside it. so a 16 foot and a 9 foot door.
I intentionally did NOT put a garage door opener in the single bay, so that I didn't have the track/chain and head unit taking away headroom, and I put shelving for lumber storage above the garage door.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments so far guys! Lots of really good ideas to mull over. I should probably add a little more detail (oops), which I'll add to the original post as well.

New shop is a free-standing 24×30 garage, with 10' ceilings. It'll need insulating, more wiring and more lighting, so that'll be done first, but was thinking about doing horizontal drywall on the bottom (4') and a row of plywood (so 4' to 8' on the wall), and another 2' of drywall above that to finish off the wall. I figured this would give me a strip of plywood all around the shop that I could use to put stuff anywhere (not being reliant on studs for everything).

I don't have many power tools at the moment, but that's partially due to space, so I hope to get a few stationary tools to help with stock prep (I'll be getting my grandpa's old RAS and Planer out of storage once I get settled in).


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I have open metal stands for a couple of tools, and at some point I may replace them with plywood cabinets since the metal stands are kind of wasted space.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

The Roubo Cabinet under my workbench top is, by far, the best storage unit I have. Doesn't limit the effective use of the bench in any way, increases it's weight, and holds some of the most essential bench tools in the shop.

In second place is a shop storage solution I've used for more than a decade: lidded tubs. I have six of them, about 11×17 and 8" high, snap on lids, marked with contents on each end (Sanding, Electric 1, Electric 2, Painting, Cabling/IT, etc.). They stack easily and keep basic 'homeowner' things easy to find, when I need them. It's a storage solution for things in the shop, not directly applicable to hand tools though.

Upper center in the picture below, the tubs are visible. I reach for at least one of them each week, no doubt.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Mos, I have 90%-95% of the tools I use in two chests. There is a peg wall which is mostly saws waiting to be cleaned up.









Clamps and mitre boxes have their own spots


















This setup has worked well for me for several years.


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## putty (Jan 1, 2014)

Mos, I would build in some closets for things that are not used much, also a closet for air compressor and dust collection system should you get one.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

More good ideas

*Smitty* I like the idea of using totes, as I have a fair number of them (though larger).

*putty* also not a bad idea. I was actually thinking pretty hard about making a storage closet inside, as I'll also be sharing the space with my computer related hobbies.

*Charles* I agree on the open metal stands… I have one for my scroll saw (not one specific to the scroll saw, just a universal tool stand with a top), and I hate it… works great for a table to put the scroll saw on, but not very efficient at all for storage space (and in my 9×11 shop I just packed up, that hurt a little)


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## handsawgeek (Jul 31, 2014)

Hi, Mosquito.
The topic of shop storage is a big one. There are probably as many storage solutions as there are woodworkers, because each person's space, shop layout, tool inventory, hardware, and consumable supplies are tailored to each individuals' way of working. 
There are a few key points that must be addressed:
1. The most frequently used tools are the ones that need to be closest at hand and instantly available. These are the core tools that you should not have to go rummaging through boxes or drawers to find every time you need them. Whether they be hung on racks, arranged on a shelf, in a wall cabinet, or in a floor tool chest, it's imperative that they are close at hand at all times. Lesser used tools can occupy shelves/racks that are further away, or in a drawer, but are easily locatable when needed. How do you know what your core tools are? Here's one way to find out: Clear off a benchtop, table, or shelf near your workbench. As you finish each build operation, place the tool(s) you used in that space. Make this your temporary tool storage method through the course of a few projects. More than likely, you will end up with a particular selection of tools that are gonna' get used every time you do a project.. These are then the ones that you can design your tool chest/cabinet/rack system around. This may sound like a silly, un-necessary thing to bother doing, but I've tried it, and it's paid off big dividends. Namely, I have used this method, and have found that my remaining tool 'kit' is made up of everything I need for the job at hand, and my valuable workspace is not cluttered up with additional items which I use only infrequently. 
2. Tools and accessories for machine tools should always be near that particular machine, and also within easy reach. You don't want to be walking across the shop searching for drill bits next to where you store the saw blades. (I don't personally worry about this one any more since I have gone Neanderthal, but it still applies to a lesser extent in the hand tool world.) This is also where power tool base stands with lots of shelves and drawers are a real nice thing to have.
3. The same concept applies to things such as hardware, shop rags, finishing supplies, pencils, etc. Stuff that you use all the time should be right at hand so you don't have to waste valuable shop time searching and rummaging. 
4. One tip that I have found particularly useful is to have a bench brush and a cutoff/scrap bin next to each and every work station in the shop. Again, the less time spent walking across the shop to retrieve something like a bench brush translates into more building time!
5. You can never have enough shelves. This one's simple - the more stuff you accumulate, the more shelving you need to organize and store it! And, believe me, you WILL accumulate stuff…..

This whole storage/organization thing can be summed up with a good analogy: 
Next time you're at the grocery store, visit the canned soup aisle. The two most popular canned soups happen to be Chicken Noodle and Cream of Mushroom. Look where those two varieties are located on the shelf. You will likely find them occupying the 'prime' shelf space - center, eye-level - easy for anyone to find. The Minestrone and Cream of Spinach are located on lower or peripheral shelf space, because they aren't in as much popular demand as the two 'biggies'. 
Approach your shop organization and storage with this Canned Soup scenario in mind, and you can't go wrong!

OK, so I'm done rambling now. Go make a cool shop tailored to your own needs!


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Ed:

1.) This is a good point, and something I realize I'll have to consider. Coming from a small 9×11 shop, everything was out and right at hand within a step or two at most from the bench… I have a feeling that will actually take some adjusting, and may play a role in how I layout my shop once I get here.

2.) See above lol

3.) I've got a pencil, screwdriver, and marking knife 'holster' that I made that hangs off the tool well frame on my bench, and would agree; having that stuff at arms reach while at the bench is great…

4.) Although I do not have many machines, this is a good tip, particularly the brush and scrap bin… or at least a centralized scrap bin not tucked away in the far corner. Currently (or up until now) I always had a box for shavings that I'd move around the shop. Easy place to drop small scraps (dovetail or tenon waste, etc), and shavings off the plane. Made for less mess to clean up later, and good fire starting material

I've had a dedicated space for woodworking for a while now, so I'm well aware of what things work for me and what don't when it comes to proximity and spacial relation of organizing things. One of the things that will take some getting used to for me will no doubt be the excess of space when I move in (I'm sure I'll fix that with time lol). "Walking across the shop" to date hasn't yet entailed more than 3-4 steps…


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

If you add drywall or plywood or whatever to the walls, a great idea is to paint them all white at this time before you start hanging things on them. It really brightens up the shop.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

Man I'm envious of all that space you have. I'd even take half of that as it would still be bigger than my garage.


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## handsawgeek (Jul 31, 2014)

Yep 24×30 x 10 high is a good space!

Right now, my hand tool shop encompasses roughly a 9×15 end of the unfinished basement. I'm seeing how far I can slowly and almost imperceptibly expand my territory into the remaining 30 foot length of the room before Mrs. handsawgeek notices and puts on the Kee-bosh !!

"But, Sweetheart, I really NEED this extra 3 feet for my new sharpening bench…."


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> Thanks for all the suggestions and comments so far guys! Lots of really good ideas to mull over. I should probably add a little more detail (oops), which I ll add to the original post as well.
> 
> New shop is a free-standing 24×30 garage, with 10 ceilings. It ll need insulating, more wiring and more lighting, so that ll be done first, but was thinking about doing horizontal drywall on the bottom (4 ) and a row of plywood (so 4 to 8 on the wall), and another 2 of drywall above that to finish off the wall. I figured this would give me a strip of plywood all around the shop that I could use to put stuff anywhere (not being reliant on studs for everything).
> 
> ...


If you will have a lot of stuff on mobile bases - I like your plan of plywood wall.

Thinking you might want to consider something other than drywall for the bottom 12 inches or so off the floor, if there is concern that the mobile bases are going to get banged into the wall moving them… it wouldnt' take long before that lower section of wall gets looking pretty rough

Someting I had a brain fart with is I set my outlets a 48 inches….but I went 48 inches to the top of the box, not bottom.

So now if I need to lay sheet goods against the wall - they cover my outlets. But you don't spot that til you are done… moved in the equipment and then put materials there and say dang-it!!


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Stay away from mobile bases. I used them when my shop was also a garage and hated them. It doesn't matter what quality wheel or stand there is always some movement even with all wheels locked. I my new shop i have no wheels tools are stationary and stay that way. I planned the layout so I had cearance for most leghths that I cut to.
Keeping outlets above the 48" is a good idea even if you don't plan on using plywood. Put in twice as many aoutlets as you think you will need.
I'm not sure I would go with the plywood in place of sheetrock. !/2 plywood doesn't hold screws really well and you will still need to find the studs when screwing anything to it. That is your choice. Take you time and don't make anything permanent for awhile.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

good call on the baseboard… hadn't thought of that. Shouldn't be too difficult, maybe just a kick plate where I'd have 'open wall' space for rolling tool/cabinet space. Currently the foundation is a few inches on the bottom already.

I'd been watching some "Down to Earth Woodworks" videos earlier, and he had also recommended at least light switches be over 48" high for that same reason. I was thinking I'd put outlets in just above the lower section of sheet rock, so I wouldn't have to cut holes in the plywood or sheet rock, only notches, which should be easier I would think.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Shop cart! Stores handheld power tools and tablesaw accessories. Works as a downdraft table. Stores under the wing of my tablesaw. Roll it out for dovetailing, sanding, or assembly.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/39656


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I'm fond of my french cleat wall:


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks for posting this topic Mos. I'm also looking for some ideas. Congrats on the new shop space, now you can swing your mallet harder without annoying the neighbours.


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## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Another vote for the French cleat. Ripped 3/4" plywood sheets can be used in a pinch to make the cleat strips.

I would also suggest using drywall for the entire wall, then hanging the ply over it. Gypsum also adds insulating and some fire resistance value, it's cheap, and if you ever change things around, a solid wall surface will already exist. Paint it a bright color too, I painted my garage an olive green (think OD's) and I regret it now.

I would also make everything that you can mobile. Exceptions for me would be benches, less need to ever move those.

Good luck,

Look forward to seeing your progression.

-Rob


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

I have multi purpose garage space and keep everything on mobile bases. The bases I have "ground" the tool and don't just have locking casters. I've found that the placement of a few shims for the feet will keep the tools from any rocking or movement when in use. I would love to have the space to dedicate tools to the footprint, but that will be my dream shop one day

My biggest problem is cut offs and 1st getting myself to believe I know the difference between useful cutoffs and the ones that need to g to the fire pit bucket. The fact that I now HAVE a firepit bucket shows my progress. In kitchens we use Speed Racks or sometimes called bakers racks to store items in the vertical rather than covering the horizontal work surfaces, and I have a 3/4 sheet left over from a commission and plan to build this cart to have a new place to "file" cutoffs a bit more neatly than the stacks all over I currently have.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Concerning paint. The smoother the better. Dust will not adhere (as well) to a smooth wall. Thus go with high gloss kitchen bathroom paint. White will reflect more light. Get t8 florescent daylight bulbs. O.K. back to shop storage
. 
The most difficult to store in a small shop is lumber and in particular as ChefDan says, cutoffs and that collection of small pieces of specialty woods. For now I have them on high shelving, requiring a step stool to get hem. I label the ends with crayon so that from below I can remember what's what. (A is for ash, B is for Birdseye, C is for cherry, etc.).

I rarely store full sheet goods. If I am using them. I get just enough for the project and keep it in the truck using it up ASAP. If I need only small say 2 by 4 pieces then I have the full sheet cut down at the lumber yard at around $0.50 
a cut. (Usually cutting in half is free.) Never the less I do have smaller pieces leaning up against walls tucked behind tools and so forth.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

More good stuff! I think I'm leaning away from the plywood around the middle section of the shop, just due to the expense of it. Not sure I want to spend the extra on plywood right out of the gate, especially in places that I may end up not using it ever. I will be definitely using some french cleats in various places, as I've been using one (yes, only one lol) in my current/previous shop space, for some hanging racks.

*Brit* I never got told to keep quiet in my apartment, but now I should be even more well off :-D Closing was today, and I did ask the sellers if anyone around were woodworkers, and she said the one neighbor was, and would go work on stuff with someone else near by as well, so I may have to explore that 

*ChefHDAN*, cut offs… I actually managed to get a box together of "burn pieces" when I was cleaning out the closet/cut off bin… progress here too lol


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

If you put up the French cleats, it eliminates the need for plywood on the walls. The only good reason for the plywood is to be able to attach something anywhere. With the cleats, you can already do that just by adding the other part of the cleat to whatever you need to hang.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

^ exactly why I've talked myself out of it


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

I like roll around carts and machine stands. I usually prefer them to have drawers.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Many people like tool cabinets with swinging doors.
There are also tool cabinets with tambour doors.
Swinging doors give extra storage space but if you want to access to the wall behind you have to close the door.
If you have a very small workshop, swinging the doors might be problematic.
In some booksellers, there are fixed bookshelves against the wall and then other bookshelves that slide in front of the fixed ones (Similar to the sliding tills in tool chests). This system does not give twice the space but at least 1.5 times. this principle could be used Inside a cabinet with tambour door.

(For the 2d link look at the 2d picture)


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

I'm sure that this isn't what you are looking for, but I have to say it anyway…

The most useful shop storage that I've implemented is to stop treating my workshop as a storage space, but as a WORK SPACE. I let it get out of hand by acquiring too much stuff, but have been slowly getting rid of things. The more I get rid of, the better it feels. The less stuff I have, the more I'm able to DO.

Some things that I avoid storing:
1) sheet goods - they're just too big. Store them at the lumber yard. Only keep what you need for the project you're working on.
2) paint - it goes bad if you don't use it. Store it at the paint store.
3) fasteners - I keep some on hand, but there has to be a limit.
4) offcuts - If you have offcuts laying around and never use them, they're worse than useless. IME, time spent coming up with projects for them is much better than a project for creating storage for them.
5) single-use tools - especially if you can do the task with another more general use tool.
6) salvage materials - parts of items that I "might re-use someday" need to go. Fortunately, scrap recycling and sites like CL help keep them out of the landfill.

Of course, we need to store things in our workspace, and it's about finding the right balance. But often times, less is more. Instead of thinking of your workshop as a place to store things, think about it in terms of a place where raw materials come in, and finished products go out. That generally doesn't require a lot of storage.

One other thing, if you focus on skills rather than acquiring tools/jigs/etc., then you'll be able to do more with less. A chisel, for example, can be used in a wide number of ways and takes up very little space. But it requires skill to develop. More skill does eventually lead to less need for storing stuff.

There are a lot of good ideas in this thread already about how to do storage well, I just wanted to add this point for consideration. If this isn't your thing, or if it is, I wish you the best nonetheless.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

I couldn't agree more SignWave. I think a lot of what you said will resonate with Mos too.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I did a big cut-off purge recently. I store sheet goods (not entire 4×8 sheets-those are always cut for use immediately) in the rafters overhead.


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

I too just did my semi-yearly purge of cut-offs. I chop them up in woodstove manageable pieces and at this time of the year are used to heat up the stove, as that's all that's needed to bring the house up to temp. after their used to light the fire. Nothing wasted!

Storage! that's always evolving.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Spent the day turning my scraps into french cleat hooks and holders.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

> I m sure that this isn t what you are looking for, but I have to say it anyway…
> 
> [...]
> 
> ...


I totally agree. Part of what I do enjoy about my old handplanes is putting together sets (collections), so there is going to be some "unnecessary" tools around, but I have so far kept it to a minimum beyond that. Space has been the limiting factor so far, though, so that likely played a role in that developed habit. Hopefully I can keep that habit going, since I do like everything to be organized and neat.

Moving is a great time for cut off purging lol I think I kept about 1/3 of what I had, and ditched the rest. Kept mostly the exotic stuff that I could use as accents or something here or there.

I don't work with many sheetgoods but the only time I do, similar to Charles, I only buy what I need for a project, so it gets cut down right away. Same goes for wood too, so far. I haven't had anywhere to store much of a "stock" of lumber, given my shop situations, so what I do have laying around is usually off cuts, or waiting for a project. Not sure if that'll change, and if so by how much, but we'll see I guess.

My biggest thing is I hate throwing away things I paid for. I always try to buy the smallest amount of paint or finish to get the job done, because what good does saving a couple bucks per oz of finish by buying the big can, if I throw half of it away next year anyway…

Lots of good stuff here, much appreciated guys! I look forward to the evolution of my shop to come.


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## WoodES (Oct 8, 2013)

Your shop is the same size as mine and storage will greatly depend on use, tools, work area layout and workflow.

I will use my shop for building furniture, cabinets, or other larger projects. So that provided the basis for my layout. The 10' garage door is at one end of a 30' wall and the area immediately behind the door is pretty much open to allow for offloading boards, plywood, and the breakdown of the plywood. The plywood cart sits immediately to the right of the garage door along the 24' wall. This area also allows for the setup and operation of the tools used in the beginning of the project, such as the planer and jointer.

The table saw is just inside the left of the garage door opening and is centered in the 24' width of the shop. The TS is bolted to an 8' square work table centered in the shop.

The work table is the heart of the shop and serves as an outfeed table for the table saw. Under the sides of work table (right & left of the table saw) are openings for mobile carts and ultimately a total of 8 carts will fit under the table. Think of these as pull out drawers under the table top.

The 4 carts that I have constructed each have either two or three drawers. These are used for dedicated types or tools. One is for drills, one for routers (overflow from the router table), one for measuring, another for planes , chisels or small saws. The top of the cart is inset about 3" to provide a well for tools, parts or materials that are being used.

I have also constructed a workbench along one of the walls with the same configuration to allow for future carts or bins. I am thinking that shelf storage is also needed to store the various collection of jigs.

The center of the worktable has longitudinal shelfs for additional lumber storage.

The remainder of the tools and another rolling worktable (this was the heart of the prior shop) are on wheels. This allows me to move everything out of the way and sweep out the sawdust. It really helps keep things clean.

The 30' wall with the garage door has the sanding/finishing work areas.

Basically, the materials come in through the garage door and progress counter clockwise from material breakdown, assembly, finishing and out the garage door.

I used chip board on the walls and painted it an offwhite. The floor was coated with an off white epoxy paint. It is actually brighter at night than during the day and I have two skylights to help during daylight.

Think hard about how you will use that space and remember that the wall space is valuable.


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## ste6168 (Mar 12, 2015)

> I m sure that this isn t what you are looking for, but I have to say it anyway…
> 
> The most useful shop storage that I ve implemented is to stop treating my workshop as a storage space, but as a WORK SPACE. I let it get out of hand by acquiring too much stuff, but have been slowly getting rid of things. The more I get rid of, the better it feels. The less stuff I have, the more I m able to DO.
> 
> ...


Great post!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I've been watching and hoping for a magic bullet. I've rearranged my shop so many time I lost count. I wish I'd started with french cleats.

Kepp things covered. Doors, drawers, whatever or dust will haunt you.

A labeling system is good. I still don't have one.

I like the down size instead of up size idea.

Moving my "collectors" out of my shop was a big help. I can still take one back to the shop should I wan to use it, but I enjoy the collection more in my office, they don't rust, and they don't get kicked around.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

> Moving my "collectors" out of my shop was a big help. I can still take one back to the shop should I wan to use it, but I enjoy the collection more in my office, they don t rust, and they don t get kicked around.
> 
> - Don W


I like that idea, especially as I figure out what I do for shop heat and/or a/c. I've been lucky enough (sort of) to have central heat and air in all my workshops to date, so rust hasn't been as much of an issue for me. Something to consider once I move to the shop space.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I am lucky enough to work from home a lot. But some times my job just down right sucks. Its helpful to be able to look around and think "it pays for these".


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Saw this for minimizing space for the roll around 1.5 or 2HP dust collector - -


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Saw this for minimizing space for the roll around 1.5 or 2HP dust collector - -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like that setup. I don't think I can hold that blower/motor up to bolt it. My 2hp HF unit is too heavy.

I would have to call foul on the plastic bag in the trash can. The blower will pressure up the bag and blow stuff everywhere. I really don't think the original illustrator has tested that setup.
Just sayin'


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> I would have to call foul on the plastic bag in the trash can. The blower will pressure up the bag and blow stuff everywhere. I really don t think the original illustrator has tested that setup.
> 
> - MT_Stringer


Agree on the bag - - I would imagine using a bicycle inner-tube to seal it around the metal trashcan, which would be as strong as the band that holds the plastic bag in place on the 'normal' configuration. and just have the bag as a "connector"

The can would be easier to deal with and empty than the bags alone with the clips and metal strap like I have on my Delta 50-850


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

A smallish tool box to hold your most used small tools. Squares pencils safety glasses plane chalk ruler tape. Rather than leave these items where they fall from your hand let them fall into this tool box.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Here is my main storage center in my shop:










It's 16' long, built with 2×4 lumber, OSB and Doug Fir 1×6 fence boards. I went for the most economical materials possible that provided strength and stability.

The bottom drawers are mainly organized by function: a bank for nails & screws, one for sanding, one for saws & blades, etc. Rather than making deep lower drawers, I just wend for a consistent size - works pretty well.

The upper cabinets are set between the supports (that go back directly to the wall studs) that hold the 4' deep loft. The loft is for big or infrequently used things.

The upper cabinets could be a lot more organized - this winter's project.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

TTF that is a really nice set-up.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

That is indeed quite nice. I will be getting (inheriting) a radial arm saw once things get set up, and that is quite similar to what I was thinking of doing with it. Thanks for sharing


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Agree on the bag - - I would imagine using a bicycle inner-tube to seal it around the metal trashcan, which would be as strong as the band that holds the plastic bag in place on the normal configuration. and just have the bag as a "connector"
> 
> The can would be easier to deal with and empty than the bags alone with the clips and metal strap like I have on my Delta 50-850
> - DrDirt


Good idea on the inner tube. I will have to write that down because I surely won't remember it! :-(


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## WillTheEngineer (Jun 29, 2010)

Everyone seems to run out of work bench surface. I my work benches open underneath (no drawers, etc..) and roll my router table and other items under them. for drawer storage, I have a couple tool cabinets under some of them, and just roll those out for an additional work surface.

Also helps you keep stuff off your table saw, router table, and other table top tools.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> Agree on the bag - - I would imagine using a bicycle inner-tube to seal it around the metal trashcan, which would be as strong as the band that holds the plastic bag in place on the normal configuration. and just have the bag as a "connector"
> 
> The can would be easier to deal with and empty than the bags alone with the clips and metal strap like I have on my Delta 50-850
> - DrDirt
> ...


Huh - - what were we talking about?  LOL


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

All I can say is congratulations on the shop Mos. Only thing I might add to the excellent suggestions so far is something I would do different in my shop. I added a full set of upper cabinets above my lower wall cabinets along one wall of my shop. They are a pain to store things in, and difficult to reach at times. Basically, I hate them! They will soon be removed and replaced with a French cleat wall.

Good luck, and I'm sure we will all be looking forward to some progress pictures in the future.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I'll be sure to try and share what I get going


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Well this had a few benefits, only took 1 sheet of ply (left over), I had a set of casters off of a convection oven (free), and going through the process I was able to go through several buckets and move more to burn buckets, still has room for more and it's easier to look for a piece than dumping out buckets. The 2 smaller pieces red & yellow were biscuited & glued up to make the base, then cut to size, cut offs were trimmed to 4" and used for the top brace pieces. Dado'ed glued & clamped, then followed up with screws for strength and prevent racking since the two sides were open


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

That's an improvement already. Good deal.


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## ste6168 (Mar 12, 2015)

> Saw this for minimizing space for the roll around 1.5 or 2HP dust collector - -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I really like this idea, and will plan something similar for the next shop. Agree, without the back fastened around the can, no way this would work, however.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I did something similar except the collector is in the attic and the can is outside.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

> Here is my main storage center in my shop:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now that Just SUCKS , But only because it's not mine. 
Lots of wall storage that looks to be pretty easy to access , Lots of bench space for working on smaller projects and great places for the RAS and CMS with the room to cut good size stock. And I just Love those Older RAS , I don't care how much some people say they are Dangerous I am getting me one as soon as I have even close to enough space for it.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Richard - thanks. It's good to suck. 
I agree, I really like the old RAS. Super sturdy and useful.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have been working on finishing the inside of my 16' x 24' shop shell for about a year now.
Took so long because I got laid off from work the same day I started moving into my remodeled house.
Had to spend 6 months getting another job and ran out of money for the shop in the process.

Any way, the long build time and tight money has led me to discover some things about building with a very limited budget. I reused the insulation that came out of the house, repurposed the old kitchen cabinets, reused all the framing lumber I could. A lot of 1/4" birch paneling was repurposed to be the attic ceiling and wall covering.

The least expensive material I have found for the shop walls and ceiling is 7/16" OSB sheathing. So far, I am extremely satisfied with this material. It's plenty strong to hang things where ever I want. The edges are half lapped so there are no open joints.

Also, with OSB there is no taping and filling and sanding like sheetrock. I just don't think I would ever want sheetrock in my shop. Too easy to knock dents and holes into.

Some places might require sheetrock for code, due to its fireproof nature, in which case I'd still put OSB under it.


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## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

I will try to get you a pic later as I don't have one here at work, but my favorite is my thickness planer is on a slide out under the bench against the wall. The base of said bench is the cabinets from my kitchen remodel and the top is just a sheet of melamine, soon to be a mdf torsion box. I knocked the door off one of the wider cabinets, screwed it to a drawer I made out of ply and added some hd slides. When I need to use the thickness planer, I just roll it out, run the boards through and slide the whole thing away when I am done. I ditched the whole base thing. Yeah its a lot of bending over, but if I have a lot to do, I just relocate it to the benchtop. I don't find that I use it daily anyways. Just for getting thickness. I still use the handplanes for most other tasks. I find this to be very handy.


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## tomclark (Feb 16, 2010)

I built lots of shop cabinets over the years. This 18 drawer one is around 25 years old. A cabinet like this holds so much that it is hard to imagine and everything is always right at your fingertips/


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

> I will try to get you a pic later as I don t have one here at work, but my favorite is my thickness planer is on a slide out under the bench against the wall. The base of said bench is the cabinets from my kitchen remodel and the top is just a sheet of melamine, soon to be a mdf torsion box. I knocked the door off one of the wider cabinets, screwed it to a drawer I made out of ply and added some hd slides. When I need to use the thickness planer, I just roll it out, run the boards through and slide the whole thing away when I am done. I ditched the whole base thing. Yeah its a lot of bending over, but if I have a lot to do, I just relocate it to the benchtop. I don t find that I use it daily anyways. Just for getting thickness. I still use the handplanes for most other tasks. I find this to be very handy.
> 
> - john2005


Sounds like an interesting set up. Hope you can find a picture, as I'd be interested in seeing it.


> Any way, the long build time and tight money has led me to discover some things about building with a very limited budget. I reused the insulation that came out of the house, repurposed the old kitchen cabinets, reused all the framing lumber I could. A lot of 1/4" birch paneling was repurposed to be the attic ceiling and wall covering.
> 
> The least expensive material I have found for the shop walls and ceiling is 7/16" OSB sheathing. So far, I am extremely satisfied with this material. It s plenty strong to hang things where ever I want. The edges are half lapped so there are no open joints.
> 
> ...


I will have to look into the code, I suppose. I don't particularly care for the look of OSB, but cheaper is cheaper lol I would be painting anyway, though.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

> I built lots of shop cabinets over the years. This 18 drawer one is around 25 years old. A cabinet like this holds so much that it is hard to imagine and everything is always right at your fingertips/
> 
> - Tom Clark


Tom, those cabinets look great, and would probably work well for a lot of my non-woodworking related stuff too… thanks for sharing!


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## BikerDad (Jul 16, 2008)

I don't know if you're familiar with the Studley Tool Chest. There is a lesson in that chest that many folks setting up their shops tend to miss/forget. And no, it's not the stunning, impeccable, awesome, beyond masterful workmanship. Nor is it the coherent integrity of the design.

Nope, what is forgotten/overlooked is that a vertical surface, such as the case, or a wall, is just as much a three dimensional foundation as a horizontal surface. Most folks setting up shop look at there walls and see a simple two dimensional surface. X high by Y wide. Beyond interference concerns with stationary tools and "will this cabinet fit", they ignore the third dimension opportunities.

LAYERS good sir, layers. ESPECIALLY when dealing with things that come in multiples. Say, for example, that you have a dozen identical clamps, perhaps parallel jaw clamps. You could line them up on the wall, side by side. Doing so will take up about 2 feet of linear wall space. OR you could stack them 6 deep on the wall, and take up 8 inches of linear wall space. Add another dozen below them, with the heads at the bottom and bars running up and interleaved between the top clamps, and now in 10-12" linear inches of wall space you've got 2 dozen clamps in the same space many folks would dedicate 4' of space. The fact that all the clamps except the front 2 (or 4) are hidden doesn't matter because if you need the hidden ones, you'll be removing the front ones anyway.

For things that aren't multiples, you layer based on frequency of use.

Additional points: Don't anchor anything to the walls that doesn't *need* to be anchored. it may be more convenient and a bit cheaper to anchor your workbench to the wall, but it makes changing things up a right royal pain.

If you can, get natural light into the space. From a security standpoint, the best way of doing so is a skylights and/or solar tubes.

Water. If you can get water out there, do so.

Upgrade your floor, if possible. OSB on sleepers is the friendliest choice for people and mobile tools, but may not be practical if the space is going to do duty as a garage.

Storage - if it ain't shop, it ain't in the shop. This is, of course, a best case situation, but aim for it. If you have to build a shed / lean to for the riding mower, compressor, fire wood, snowblower, etc, do so.


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