# 1972 Craftsman project, Opinions Welcome



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Some "shop" pics too!*

Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.

I have asked on some forums about this project, there is a bow in the top and I want to flatten it. I may also be adding a home made T square fence, seeing as I have most of the parts. I will try to tell the story in pictures, as it may help in understanding.

First of all, this is going out to my "shop", and it leaks, so I am not about to go spend $1000 on new one to put it in here. It gets it's power from running an extension cord out there, after hauling the tools onto the lawn, which isn't going to happen any time soon.










A few inside pics with some of my tools:

My makita thickness planer is under the upside down sink (another project, but it keeps it dry for now):










The saw, my 4" Rockwell jointer, Router table on the cabinet, some clamps, yard tools, BBQ, it's a muti function storage area.










Looking the other way, you can see the saw and jointer, my mitre saw on it's stand, my little compressor. The screen door for the patio doors is on it's side behind for the winter.










My work bench, vacs, storage for all kids of stuff I like to keep handy, like the 18 ga. nail gun that is in the basket on top.










Finally, the last corner that is taken up by shelves full of air conditioners, my sanders, camping equipment, etc.










So, here is the top of the saw, I think the extensions are cast aluminum, I have to figure out how to make better throat plate inserts for it too, I tried one out of lexan once but it shattered as I was putting the kerf cut in it. The top of the saw itself is cast iron (cast steel?, it rusts)










The throat plate removed, ever seen them like this anyone?










Inside, you can see that the blade attaches directly to the motor shaft.










Torn down, you can see it is more or less a portable saw that has been expanded on










The underside, showing the mechanicals of the beast.










The top is off, you can see the tabs with 2 holes each that mount the motor to the top. I believe that it is 30 years of the motor hanging there that has caused the top to bow, and the reason for this project.










The bottom of the top.










Again, only closer and cleaner.










A view of the warp in the top. I just used the edge of a piece of angle to show it. The angle is part of the fence that came with the saw










A closer view of the warp in the top










And of course, the ever present helper and foreman, Aggie the gulunga mutt!










So, what do you think about flattening this thing and getting it more functional. I am open to comments and suggestions. My first thought was to clamp angle iron to it with shims to the bottom, but the shape makes that a bit hard. Maybe trying to do that on the front and back edges would work. OR, is it that close I should see about getting it ground. That may be overkill as I am willing to settle for "better" instead of "perfect". Of course, if perfect can be easily and cheaply gotten, it will be.

Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions.

Jim


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


I'd start by taking a feeler-gauge and measuring just how deep that hollow is. sometimes looks can be deceiving. and although this is not perfectly flat - it might still be within margin. I have a few spots that are 0.004" deep. they do show light through them, and that light make it look worse that it really is.

other than that. it's a hard call. either get it serviced, or replaced.


----------



## SteveMI (May 19, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


Since you have the top off anyway, take it to a couple local machine shops and get quotes on surfacing it. Not being in a hurry and the economy being what it is, you may get a real good deal. They should ask, but make sure to let them know about the mounting bosses on the rear that you would like the table top to reference to. For a shop with the right size equipment this is a real easy job.

Make sure you also let them know the minimum depth on the miter slot.

Steve.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


Jim, it was interesting to see your "shop" You are not the only woodworkers who isn't lucky enough to have something larger and with all the bells and whistles. I do admire you not letting that stop you though. Your dog reminds me of "Stubby" my grandmothers dog who lived 21 years. I Hope yours does too.

That tablsaw top looks pretty off to me and it would probably be a bug bear to straighten up. If I were in your shoes I would probably fabricate a new top from Plywood. You could laminate two 3/4" thick pieces together and glue a melamine top on it. That way it would also be thick enough to take a zero clearance insert as well. You would lose a lot of cutting height though. You would have to decide if the trade-off is worth it. I don't know if this is a good solution, but I haven't any other ideas.


----------



## WhittleMeThis (Mar 1, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


Seems to be a fairly significant gap. your best bet is to do as Steve suggest.


----------



## johnnymo (Aug 15, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


I would go with Steve's suggestion as well. I would probably make a cutting sled for the tabletop for now. That would at least keep the parts your cutting level.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


WOW! Thank you all for the comments.
Where do I begin to respond. I will take the feeler guages to it and a straighter straight edge and give you a measurement. Accurate informaition is always better.
I did think of doing a ply top on it and it is not out of consideration.
Could be I end up bringing it too a machine shop. For now, I am going to put some angle iron or similar across the front and back and clamp it tight to try and gently bend it back. I may have to shim it in the middle to get it to go. The home made fence that I am building has the front rail made up of angle iron and square tube. I hope that will hold it after it is flat. The fence is longer than the saw so I would like to add a short rear extension, if I use a piece of angle iron there too, I hope it will aid the front fences angle iron/square tube do the job. 
The fence itself is an aluminum extrusion 88×44 mm and has another piece of angle for the T square part (I have to put in some nylon bolts for squaring adjustment) and the far end has 2 bearings on it to glide on. The aluminum extrusion will be about 2mm off the top itself. I will add sacrifical faces to it.

Again thanks and I will try to keep up!


----------



## Gary (Jul 24, 2006)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


Not only would I go with Steve's suggestion, I'd also take the miter gauge with me.
That way, IF the top needs to be reground to a depth which makes the gauge too tall, they can
regrind it to fit too.
However, being it's an old direct drive saw, I'd also keep an eye on the local Craigslist. Lots of good saws
are sold cheap there AND although you have a sentimental attachment to this saw, there may be a point where you spend more than even that value.

Good luck.


----------



## daltxguy (Sep 7, 2007)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


I'd first double check the flatness of the top using something that's reliably flat. The angle that you used could be off as well. The issue could be the angle, not the top. I have a saw that I still use 'everyday' that is a similar design ( I bought mine new in 1985) and it does not seem to have sagged - or even if it has, since i haven't checked, I don't know the difference

You said that the saw serves you well - so why bother doing anything?


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


Thats a nice start.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim
If this were not your dads I'd say toss it. Sorry to be so blunt. If you going to do bird houses and trellises
this will be ok. But if you want to do more than that keep your Dads saw for smaller projects and get a used contractor saw. Your Dads saw can be taken off the base and be stored in your loft area. Saws like your dads saw are around the $100-$125 new and are poor examples of table saws. many beginners on the forum have talked about buying a direct drive saw and replacing it as soon as they could. The repairs are not easy nor do I think for the most part will not be totally successful once the effort is put forth. I loved my dad when he was still with us and still do. But I don't think he would suggest you used his old straight edge razor now there are safer and easier razors available. Again please forgive how blunt I have been but I think it's best to tell you the truth.


----------



## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Some "shop" pics too!*
> 
> Let me start out by saying, that this saw belonged to my Dad, who is now 85, in reletively good health (thankfully), and still driving. The saw is sentimental, and still serves me well.
> 
> ...


I think a1Jim is right. Having a machine shop try to straighten the top would cost more than the saw is worth, and there is no guarantee that it wouldn't sag again after you reassemble the motor to it.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Clamping and T Square Fence*

I dug my old "on hold" T square fence project today. It's kinda rusty, but no problem. I am showing it together at the start. It is pretty heavy with the square tubing and angle iron bolted together. There should be enough strength there to hold the top in place once I get it flat.










Here it is apart so you can see the seperate pieces better. I think the picture is pretty self explanitory of how it works. I have to devise a method of clamping it to the square tube, I may use a toggle clamp, or rig up a cam clamp. The piece of angle attached to the aluminum extrusion will have some holes tapped in it for nylon adjusters to square the fence. A bit of teflon coated tape to make it glide better and it should be good. The extrusion will take T nuts so adding jigs and sacrificial fence faces will be easy.










Again, from the end.










and the other end. This end will ride on the little bearings over the top of the outfeed extension, the fence is longer than the TS top.










Here is another picture of the part that mounts to the front of the saw, as you can see, it is fairley substantial.










I put a straight edge on the top and measured the dip with feeler guages. I get about .030" at the worst part. Using part of the fence and the light clamping afforded by my surplus clamps, I cut that in half to about .015". I will have to go hunt for my C clamps, but for now I will let it sit under pressure for a while. I am hoping that by doing it in a slow progression that I will get most of it out.










Again, I welcome comments, even the ones that are not for this project. I have almost everything needed for it so it won't be expensive. I have lots of time and little money, hopefully I get a better saw out of it.

Thanks for looking in and commenting!


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Clamping and T Square Fence*
> 
> I dug my old "on hold" T square fence project today. It's kinda rusty, but no problem. I am showing it together at the start. It is pretty heavy with the square tubing and angle iron bolted together. There should be enough strength there to hold the top in place once I get it flat.
> 
> ...


Just an update:

After about a week I unclamped the top and re measured the bow. About .010" has come out of it, so that is about 1/3. I re clamped it and really cranked down on the pressure to get the bow going the opposite way. It is sitting in a bedroom now with the forced air heating blowing on it. I will check next weekend on the progress. Oh yes, I did go out and get a big C clamp, much easier.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Clamping and T Square Fence*
> 
> I dug my old "on hold" T square fence project today. It's kinda rusty, but no problem. I am showing it together at the start. It is pretty heavy with the square tubing and angle iron bolted together. There should be enough strength there to hold the top in place once I get it flat.
> 
> ...


It has been a few weeks and the top seems to have stopped straightening. I still have about .020" of bow in it. I am kind of stuck right now, debating on my next step. Machine shop rates are $50/hr. and I would rather replace than put a pile of money into it. That is another dilemma. I do not want to downgrade to a portable saw, and upgrading is expensive. So I am sitting in limbo land. May try a few experiments to try and rescue the old girl. For now, I have reclamped it in different locations, using the motor mount pads as my clamping location. We will see what happens. Off to get a few parts for experimenting.

I would love to upgrade, and the WW show is only a week away, but I already promised my better half that I would not be coming home with any multi-thousand dollar purchases.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Clamping and T Square Fence*
> 
> I dug my old "on hold" T square fence project today. It's kinda rusty, but no problem. I am showing it together at the start. It is pretty heavy with the square tubing and angle iron bolted together. There should be enough strength there to hold the top in place once I get it flat.
> 
> ...


Looks like a big challenge.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Clamping and T Square Fence*
> 
> I dug my old "on hold" T square fence project today. It's kinda rusty, but no problem. I am showing it together at the start. It is pretty heavy with the square tubing and angle iron bolted together. There should be enough strength there to hold the top in place once I get it flat.
> 
> ...


That is a challenge.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Top is flat*

I tapped the holes that were meant for the original fence with a 10mm tap. I drilled and countersunk the angle irons with the center hole slightly higher than the ones near the edge. I then re clamped the top to take the bow out and attached the angle iron with Gr. 8 machine screws. After a few hours of hand filing and test fitting, I got the angle irons attached plus I put lock nuts on the inside. My smallest feeler guage is .008 and must be forced under the straight edge at the worst point. I am calling the top flat.
Next it will be a trip to the Re-Store for a piece of counter top material to fill in between the angle irons. I need a piece 20×31 and it will also become the router table top. This will give me 4 feet in width overall. I still have 2 one foot extensions that can go onto the left side of the table. Still on the hunt for casters for the cart this will go on. I need to get the saw up and running soon, so for now, it will just be the saw, on a box, on a cart, with some legs for the extension on the right side. Shooting for a 34" work height.


----------



## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Top is flat*
> 
> I tapped the holes that were meant for the original fence with a 10mm tap. I drilled and countersunk the angle irons with the center hole slightly higher than the ones near the edge. I then re clamped the top to take the bow out and attached the angle iron with Gr. 8 machine screws. After a few hours of hand filing and test fitting, I got the angle irons attached plus I put lock nuts on the inside. My smallest feeler guage is .008 and must be forced under the straight edge at the worst point. I am calling the top flat.
> Next it will be a trip to the Re-Store for a piece of counter top material to fill in between the angle irons. I need a piece 20×31 and it will also become the router table top. This will give me 4 feet in width overall. I still have 2 one foot extensions that can go onto the left side of the table. Still on the hunt for casters for the cart this will go on. I need to get the saw up and running soon, so for now, it will just be the saw, on a box, on a cart, with some legs for the extension on the right side. Shooting for a 34" work height.


Hey Rand,
Looking good.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Top is flat*
> 
> I tapped the holes that were meant for the original fence with a 10mm tap. I drilled and countersunk the angle irons with the center hole slightly higher than the ones near the edge. I then re clamped the top to take the bow out and attached the angle iron with Gr. 8 machine screws. After a few hours of hand filing and test fitting, I got the angle irons attached plus I put lock nuts on the inside. My smallest feeler guage is .008 and must be forced under the straight edge at the worst point. I am calling the top flat.
> Next it will be a trip to the Re-Store for a piece of counter top material to fill in between the angle irons. I need a piece 20×31 and it will also become the router table top. This will give me 4 feet in width overall. I still have 2 one foot extensions that can go onto the left side of the table. Still on the hunt for casters for the cart this will go on. I need to get the saw up and running soon, so for now, it will just be the saw, on a box, on a cart, with some legs for the extension on the right side. Shooting for a 34" work height.


Looks good.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Top is flat*
> 
> I tapped the holes that were meant for the original fence with a 10mm tap. I drilled and countersunk the angle irons with the center hole slightly higher than the ones near the edge. I then re clamped the top to take the bow out and attached the angle iron with Gr. 8 machine screws. After a few hours of hand filing and test fitting, I got the angle irons attached plus I put lock nuts on the inside. My smallest feeler guage is .008 and must be forced under the straight edge at the worst point. I am calling the top flat.
> Next it will be a trip to the Re-Store for a piece of counter top material to fill in between the angle irons. I need a piece 20×31 and it will also become the router table top. This will give me 4 feet in width overall. I still have 2 one foot extensions that can go onto the left side of the table. Still on the hunt for casters for the cart this will go on. I need to get the saw up and running soon, so for now, it will just be the saw, on a box, on a cart, with some legs for the extension on the right side. Shooting for a 34" work height.


Thanks, hope the work can start to pick up with the nice weather. The lawn is my shop.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Extension table*

Went to the Re-Store to get a piece of counter top material for the saw extension. They had a "could not refuse" deal on brand new, flat pack, maple kitchen cabinets. So the kitchen got a face lift..lol, and I got the old counter top.
I cut 2 pieces to size along with a piece of plywood (20 X 31) and lined them up and drilled some locating holes. Laminated the whole works together. Of course, I forgot to mark how it all went together and had to scrape all the glue off and do it a second time. The locating holes are filled with dowel and I think will make a bit of interest in the top. It's not perfect, but a bit of time with the belt sander ought to fix it up. Again, I used every clamp I have, and all my glue too. 
I used the 1/2" ply in the middle to get the thickness I wanted. Also, I took the belt sander to the back of the counter top material and plywood to give it all a bit of clean up and tooth for the glue. We will see how much success I get when I attempt to put it between the angle irons and attach it.










Wow! I even remembered to re size the photo! Not the best picture though. Wait for the next installment when it goes into the top.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Extension table*
> 
> Went to the Re-Store to get a piece of counter top material for the saw extension. They had a "could not refuse" deal on brand new, flat pack, maple kitchen cabinets. So the kitchen got a face lift..lol, and I got the old counter top.
> I cut 2 pieces to size along with a piece of plywood (20 X 31) and lined them up and drilled some locating holes. Laminated the whole works together. Of course, I forgot to mark how it all went together and had to scrape all the glue off and do it a second time. The locating holes are filled with dowel and I think will make a bit of interest in the top. It's not perfect, but a bit of time with the belt sander ought to fix it up. Again, I used every clamp I have, and all my glue too.
> ...


You know, not until your post did I even consider the Re-Store for things like countertops…when I go to redo my router table that will certainly be one of the places I look. Thanks!


----------



## JAGWAH (Dec 15, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Extension table*
> 
> Went to the Re-Store to get a piece of counter top material for the saw extension. They had a "could not refuse" deal on brand new, flat pack, maple kitchen cabinets. So the kitchen got a face lift..lol, and I got the old counter top.
> I cut 2 pieces to size along with a piece of plywood (20 X 31) and lined them up and drilled some locating holes. Laminated the whole works together. Of course, I forgot to mark how it all went together and had to scrape all the glue off and do it a second time. The locating holes are filled with dowel and I think will make a bit of interest in the top. It's not perfect, but a bit of time with the belt sander ought to fix it up. Again, I used every clamp I have, and all my glue too.
> ...


Great idea!

Restore is a most excellent source. Consider an old oak door for the wood or old window for the mullions due to there unique milled edge. There are many possible things one can find to cabbage, I mean repurchase, into something else.

I replenish my local ReStore when I have items from my jobs. Give 'em 2 take 1, my motto.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Top, Bottom, Now I Need a Middle*

Well, Good weather, good time to get finished up on some more.

I mated the extension table to the saw top today. I used 3/8×4" lag screws on the mating edge itself.









Added 3" deck screws through the angle iron and into the top.









Very nice and flat with a good seam. OK, time to get the fence mocked up.

I took the T part of the fence and threaded in some nylon set screws, these can be used to square the fence and make sure it is perpendicular also. I can see me needing some lock nuts.









The square tube that the fence rides on gets an application of UHMW tape. The nylon set screws rides on the tape.









The T square fence takes shape with the adaper I had machined between the cross pieces.









A view of the end of the fence (Upside down) assembly.









Another view, showing more of the fence. Made from a section of heavy aluminum extrusion.









And mocked into place. I think I will raise the square tube a bit. A spacer will do it. Then the nylon set screws can be drawn back a bit.









OK that is mocked up. Maybe cut a bit of wood now.

The cart that this will sit on is a full 6' long and 2' wide. I had some 3/4" exterior plywood left over from the kitchen. Not quite long enough, but we can work around that, we need 2' of it ripped.









Cut up a bunch of 2×4's and mock everything together and I remembered to mark everything for glue up. Maybe I am actually learning something here.









Another view of it "in the shop". This is part of the reason it is going on wheels. Anytime I use the table saw, I have to bring it out on the lawn. Not a lot of room in there.









All glued up and together. Attached the casters (I need some carrage bolts). The casters are on a hinged board so they can swing away for working. You can see the 3 scraps I attached to act as feet when in the working position. I chose 3 because it stabilizes better on uneven ground….i.e the lawn.









Here it is in the "moving" position. I have to get something to lock it in this position.









Here it is in the "working" position. Being dropped down will also give me a chance to build a slightly taller cabinet under the top too. You can also see how I made the plywood longer by re using a couple of pieces of 1×4 pine on each end.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Top, Bottom, Now I Need a Middle*
> 
> Well, Good weather, good time to get finished up on some more.
> 
> ...


great work i love the biesmyer style fence.


----------



## davidpettinger (Aug 21, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Top, Bottom, Now I Need a Middle*
> 
> Well, Good weather, good time to get finished up on some more.
> 
> ...


Can't beat a good work table for the table saw. Makes moving it a heck of a lot easier. Big wheels make for easy moving. I have 4" casters now on my newly built tablesaw cabinet, I can't believe I waited so long to do that. The whole combination weighs so much, that with the casters locked, she is as steady as a rock.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*A bit more work done*

Hello all:

My last entry indicated I needed a way to lock the casters in place on my TS workstation cart for rolling around. I picked up a couple of storm ties for framing at the local lumber store and put a bit bend in them to fit the cart.









I made one leg shorter.









I attached the storm tie to the frame, then drilled through it and the caster support at the same time, put in a shallow counter bore, and put a T nut into that.


















Thread a bolt into the T nut, and it should be good for rolling around.









In my last entry I said that the top and the extension mated nicely, I figure I should back that statement up.









I also picked up some fender washers and longer bolts for the fence bar to raise it. You see the difference if you compare to the photo in the last blog entry. I guess a by product of raising it a bit (can I call this "raising the bar?") is that debris will be able to fall out the gaps.  The bolts holding the bar, by the way, are M8 cap screws, Grade 8. So they should be tough.









Got to take it easy, the knee is killing me. Rain is supposed to come, so that will slow me down a bit. Overall, I am pretty pleased with how it is going together. I love designing and fabricating. More so if I can do it inexpensively.


----------



## ArcticTroy (Jan 5, 2010)

JimDaddyO said:


> *A bit more work done*
> 
> Hello all:
> 
> ...


Nice fabrication work and solution Jim! Solid approach.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*UH OH*

Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.

Jim


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *UH OH*
> 
> Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.
> 
> Jim


An electric motor repair shop should be able to get you going. Can you plug the motor in to an outlet to make sure the problem is the motor and not the switch?


----------



## marcb (May 5, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *UH OH*
> 
> Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.
> 
> Jim


You mean the cap on the motor?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=electric&keyword=EMSC


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *UH OH*
> 
> Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.
> 
> Jim


There is no cap on this motor. It is all a seperate assembly containing the switch, reset switch, cap, and some sort of relay. The motor is a seperate unit. I am bringing the assembly to a shop that does this kind of work, and if they can't fix it, I am going to ask if they can build a replacement from more common parts. From this unit there are 4 wires to the motor, black white, green, and a red that goes to the capacitor.


----------



## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *UH OH*
> 
> Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.
> 
> Jim


Have you tried the Sears Parts website? You might be surprised at what parts they still have in stock.
www.searspartsdirect.com


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *UH OH*
> 
> Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.
> 
> Jim


It's always the simple things you overlook. Brought the capacitor unit into the shop today. Turns out the main switch was crudded up with sawdust from flipping the saw so many times. No charge. I feel like I just dodged a bullet, and a bit duh at the same time. I put the saw on the cart to measure for the cabinet height I need and quickly attached the stock wings too….It is almost funtional, but a 17" working height won't do for long. I threw a temporary leg on it for the photo.


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *UH OH*
> 
> Well, I might have been beaten. I plugged the saw in today, after all this work, and nothing. The capacitor starting system has problems. So, unless I can get it fixed or replaced somehow (bringing it into an electric motor repair place that specializes in this), the saw is dead. Too many proprietary parts to be able to cobble something up. Stand by, we are having technical difficulties. We are hoping it can be overcome somehow.
> 
> Jim


Hey! Free easy fix, gotta love it. Overall progress is looking good.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*More fence fabrication*

I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.










Get the hole spacing for the clamp, drill and counter bore for some T nuts on the back.










A test fit onto the fence itself.










OK, I need a longer bolt to put the pressure on the square tube, but with the rubber end in you can see that it is goeing to work nicely.










I am sure that it will have to be rebuilt, the ash has a tendency to split, I will likely replace it with plywood or, if a piece of aluminum comes my way….... To say I was happy with it would be an understatement. The plans have been in my head for so long, it's great to see it coming together. Not only that, once the pressure bolt is replaced with a longer one, the saw can be set up and be functional. WOO HOO!


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *More fence fabrication*
> 
> I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.
> 
> ...


nice


----------



## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *More fence fabrication*
> 
> I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.
> 
> ...


You can get small pieces of aluminum plate on Ebay for very cheap. Nice job.

Is it difficult to clamp with that short lever?


----------



## woody57 (Jan 6, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *More fence fabrication*
> 
> I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.
> 
> ...


very nice job


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *More fence fabrication*
> 
> I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.
> 
> ...


This definitely looks like something I would do…...(-:

For instance, the switch on my Delta Contractor's Saw, Switch

I think you are correct, plywood would probably hold up longer. If the ash splits, glue up the requisite thickness, that's something I do a lot. That ash looks about 1" thick or so.

Anyway, interesting project, glad your switch deal was a simple fix.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *More fence fabrication*
> 
> I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.
> 
> ...


I have to gt a longer bolt for it because the stock one is too short to clamp. If you look in the last pic you can see I stuffed a rubber end in there just to see. Even with this, I am suprised how stabil the fence is. The toggle clamp does not have to be screaming tight to work to it's full effect. One thing I have learned in my working career is that those people who crank things down until it almost fails, are not doing a good job. I think I will get the saw tuned up tomorrow and make a new piece from some plywood. Time to get the dial indicator out!!!!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *More fence fabrication*
> 
> I got a toggle clamp from our freinds at Lee Valley. It has a 700 lb. rating. I had to attach it to the fence. It was bigger than I had thought so a small piece from the ash pile, copy the holes from the original piece of aluminum and counter sink them really far so the bolts will reach.
> 
> ...


Ah yes, I see it well. Longer bolt, cut to size, with a rubber buffer, might be the way to go. I agree with you about cranking things down to far. If you use plywood, pick your thickness, and cut the bolt to fit. I think the rubber thing might do well, especially if it were a little thinner, and not allow much lateral movement. Broad, but thin contact. Maximum friction, minimum give.

This type of stuff is fun…............(-:

......have a good one…...

Alaska Jim


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Success! A functioning Table Saw*

Spent a bit of time today doing some tweaking and setting up. I made a new piece to hold the toggle clamp out of 1/2" ply. The thinner material made the stock bolt the perfect length. The new zero clearance insert is in and I put in my trusty 50 tooth Freud thin kerf blade. A couple of hours setting everything up and it works!!! A bit of cleaning and waxing was involved today.

I ripped a short section af ash and the cut looks really nice. First project….the cabinet for under it. I just finished a sketch up of the carcass. A bunch of left overs and ends will make it, but there will be some hefty plywood in it. But, I am getting ahead of myself.

A general look at the whole thing. Fence is clamped down, ZCI is in place. I am not sure if I am going to keep the fence that long. It will stay for now though.










A closer look at the fence clamped in place with the toggle clamp. You can also see the lock nuts I used on the nylon grub screws used for adjusting the fence. The fence adjusts for parralelism to the blade and the guide face can be adjusted so it is square with the table.










A closer view of the ZCI. Made of 2 parts: 1/8" acrylic and 1/2" ply. I have a cutting board in the kitchen I am considering sacrificing to the project, and, I already bought a new board so I could. This is the best blade I have. A 50 tooth thin kerf Freud. I am thinking a new 40 tooth blade is in the works, but have you priced a woodworker ll ???










Just for fun, another overview of the saw. Once the cabinet is made it will be more comfy to use. Eventually some sanding and making pretty too.










Next installment…the cabinet….I am so glad it works, everything is tight and smooth and the saw cuts better than ever with the careful set up.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Now at working height.*

Just a few photos of it finally put together. I just made a temporary leg for where the router table will go. The cabinet was made of leftovers, 3/4 for the top and bottom, 5/8 for the back, and 7/8 for the verticles.

Front



















Back, showing sawdust chute.










and with the door on with the connection for the shop vac.










Thanks for looking and all the encouragment


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*ZCI oops, a confession*

I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.










After a bit of cleaning and a band aid, I clamped a piece of wood over the ZCI, and put the tools away for the day. Don't work overheated or tired, tools bite. A bit out of focus, kinda hard with only 1 hand, but you get the idea.


----------



## Eagle1 (Jan 4, 2010)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


OOUUUCHHH!!!


----------



## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


nasty flesh wound


----------



## OutPutter (Jun 23, 2007)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


Terribly lucky. Do you think you can explain in more detail what postition your finger was in when the blade coming up from under it cut it on top? It doesn't seem to make sense to me. I know you may think this is trivial but, having experience in accident investigation tells me that in order for others to avoid a similar mistake, VERY specific information is necessary. Anything you may offer could make the difference.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


My hand was parallel to the blade, to the left of it about 6", the fingertips at about the same depth in as the center of the blade. If it was any farther back I fear I would have had more trouble than a band aid could handle. Bottom line is, DON'T use your hand, use a clamp (or two).


----------



## OutPutter (Jun 23, 2007)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


If I got this right, the blade penetrated the ZCI and grabbed the board you were holding the ZCI down with. That must mean that the hold down only covered part of the ZCI? Then, the motion of the top board being flung aside drew your finger into the blade?


----------



## JAGWAH (Dec 15, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


You are very lucky indeed. And the recipient of a rare and valuable scar. If you look often at that finger before every TS use you just may avoid another accident thanks to it's juju power.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


Its subtle reminders like this that keep us safe®. The stupid gene is in all of us.
Thanks for posting


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


Outputter: The blade caught the board I was holding over top as it came through that board.


----------



## JAGWAH (Dec 15, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *ZCI oops, a confession*
> 
> I was making up a ZCI for a 3/4" dado stack. Working in the sun and getting hot and lazy. Of course, I put a board over the ZCI and started to raise the blade through it, but being hot and tired, I only held it there by hand instead of taking the 10 steps that was required to grab a couple of clamps. You can see where this is going. When the blade came through the board, it caught it and it moved, my hand with it. A very close call that could have been a lot worse. I cannot call this an accident, it was stupidity, and something I know better than to do. I hope some good comes out of it by keeping someone else from repeating my mistake.
> 
> ...


Stupid gene? I'd say gene of enlightenment! Enlightenment comes at a cost. Yours was a small price , mine was 6 stitches and a numb thumb. Don't waste the gift.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

*Living with old tools*

Late last year, before I put the saw away for the winter, a piece of the casting on the tablesaw broke. It was causing some vibration and the blade to move side to side a bit when adjusting height. Not good in conjunction with zero clearance inserts. Anyway, it is getting warm again and time to get the saw ready for what I hope will be a productive summer. The "key" as I am calling it had to be fixed. There are 2 parts that mount on a shaft and are keyed together you can see the missing key in the photo:










The 2 parts slid apart a bit to clarify:










Here you can see where the key broke off:










So, what's a guy to do but fix it. I started by carving out a slot where the old key was:










So then I had this:










Then it was a matter of cutting a piece from some high grade aluminum I had laying around, a little bit of JB Weld and get it together. It is sitting and drying as I write this:










Next I will do a bit more filing and fine fitting…..hmmm….loose tenon joinery on a Tablesaw???


----------



## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Living with old tools*
> 
> Late last year, before I put the saw away for the winter, a piece of the casting on the tablesaw broke. It was causing some vibration and the blade to move side to side a bit when adjusting height. Not good in conjunction with zero clearance inserts. Anyway, it is getting warm again and time to get the saw ready for what I hope will be a productive summer. The "key" as I am calling it had to be fixed. There are 2 parts that mount on a shaft and are keyed together you can see the missing key in the photo:
> 
> ...


Looks like a great fix to me, beats trying to buy a new part that may not be available anyway.


----------



## carlosponti (Sep 9, 2008)

JimDaddyO said:


> *Living with old tools*
> 
> Late last year, before I put the saw away for the winter, a piece of the casting on the tablesaw broke. It was causing some vibration and the blade to move side to side a bit when adjusting height. Not good in conjunction with zero clearance inserts. Anyway, it is getting warm again and time to get the saw ready for what I hope will be a productive summer. The "key" as I am calling it had to be fixed. There are 2 parts that mount on a shaft and are keyed together you can see the missing key in the photo:
> 
> ...


JB weld is great stuff!


----------

