# What type of jointing



## phlyers (Jul 4, 2013)

Hey guys. I'm making a bunch of children's stools. In the picture you see an edge to face joint. I'm looking to know what the best and most importantly the strongest joint here would be. Dowels? biscuits? I don't want to use brad nails because i'm afraid of pull out plus some will be made out of other hardwoods instead of poplar. Also I need to be conservative with glue because of clean up as this will be sort of a production job. Any thoughts? Ohh if I haven't complained enough on what NOT to use use here's another one. Cant use pocket screws either. I like the strength of them but these joints need to be full concealed.


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## BArnold (May 20, 2013)

My first thought is to countersink screws to join the pieces together, then plug the hole and sand the plug flush. I think that will give you the strongest connection. Use a contrasting plug to give it a decorative element, unless you're painting them.


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## phlyers (Jul 4, 2013)

Bill, Yea the screws would be ideal but i'm going for a fully concealed joint. It's all poplar so it will be painted. Some will be other hardwoods like cherry, maple.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Dovetails.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Dowels will serve but… well, dowels are not what
I would use, even though I like them and use
them plenty.

Plugged screws would resist pulling out better. When
furniture put together with dowels is not designed
specifically for dowel construction it can be prone
to pulling apart, and once it starts it tends to 
progress.

MOD-EZE makes some killer blind fasteners that will 
outperform dowels in this application.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Like bill suggested, countersunk screws with plugs sanded flush. You could paint over it or on the hardwoods, it will look good with whatever finish you choose. Use some glue to keep the joints tight.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I would make the end of each board a single dovetail.

Or, using a router, make a mortise in both sides and fit a loose tenon in there.

Or, drill deep pilot holes and use glue and two or three 8d or 10d finish nails, finish set in and putty the holes.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Strongest would be a full lap joint with screws. It would also be relatively fast with a dado blade.


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## usmcshooter (Jul 27, 2013)

How about mortising and loose tenons


> Any size and place you want


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

You are painting the poplar ones right? Screw/plug/fill/paint. Maple and cherry ones I'd be tempted to dowel.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

If screws are definitely out? I would use dowels, as you mentioned this will be sort of a production job they offer good strength, provided you're going with a tough hardwood dowel, they're relatively inexpensive and if you're making several it would further justify a jig to make placement quick and accurate.


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## phlyers (Jul 4, 2013)

I've decided to go with screws. Countersunk and capped with a round head plug. I've seen it done on others and it looks "kid like" I'll post pics as soon as a few of them are done.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Right choice. Flush plugs can be good too. Do a time study 
both ways if you are going to do a lot. Round head
plugs vary in the package I have found and some may 
be prone to splitting when hammered in (when needed)
and furthermore may have tearout voids in the surface.

Flush plugs can be made easily in the shop and sanded
with an orbital sander after assembly.

I would probably go flush. Round head do look neat 
but I would not put them under a butt I think.


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## phlyers (Jul 4, 2013)

I've made a few changes. It doubles as a step stool/chair. The cross pieces for the "step" part are too far away from the "seat" part so I moved them closer together so there's no gap. These are the only pics I have at the moment.

The fasteners will go on the ends of the pieces so no chance a little butt will feel them. If they can well then the stool is too big for them. Go sit on your big boy/girl chair if that's the case!!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Nice little chair!


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## phlyers (Jul 4, 2013)

Question regarding the cross pieces. Is there a technique I can use to get them flush with the side pieces? Even though they're all cut exactly at 12" some tend to hang over the sides just a hair. Should I use a flush trim cutter with a bearing and allow the bearing to ride on the vertical side piece so it flushes up the cross pieces or should I use a belt sander. Picture shows where I want it flush. I guess that if a router is used that I pose the risk of tear out at the ends of the cut but they only hang over MAYBE as much as 1/32".

Thanks Rick for your kind words.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

You may tear out. What I might do is mount the flush trim in the table. Assuming that those swivel pieces are not on yet, put your piece on the table upside down, start each individual slat with a climb cut very slowly. Just go about a half inch and then start back at the front for the rest of the cut. I think you could do that pretty safely since you are only taking off a 32nd.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Belt sander. No risk of tearout. You have to sand anyway, right?

A few cut 6" sanding belts in progressive grits glued to a flat
surface would allow relatively speedy sanding of the sides.

Another way to do it is bevel them slightly on the table saw, 
cutting into the side a little bit. This takes that one sharp
90 degree corner and makes two less acute corners.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 18, 2013)

If you're after assembly speed you might look into Miller Dowels. It uses a stepped drill bit and a stepped dowel that pulls the material together. It therefore acts as it's own plug.


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

I'd cut a rabbet on the cross pieces, 1/8, boards on end through the table saw one pass. I'd size that for a 1/32 overhand because you're going to need to sand that endgrain before painting anyway.

The shoulder will make clamping and gluing easy. I'd do that first, and drive in the screws after the glue has set.

I can't see on your finished pic if there are roundovers present. They're always appreciated (by the elders) on kids' stuff

Kindly,

Lee


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## usmcshooter (Jul 27, 2013)

I need to join stringers and 8 legs for a computer desk. the stringers are 1×3 and the legs are 2×2.

What is the best way to do this ? Dowels , Loose Tenons ? or ????


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Dowels, loose tenons, mortise and tenons, any will work fine.


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