# MKII honing guide issues



## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

Haven't had this long, but am having some issues.

Namely, when I go to add the micro-bevel, it is not parallel to the primary bevel and blades are not coming out square. Am using the deluxe jig, and setting the blades with the registration jig.

What's strange is I took a Lie Nielsen plane iron straight from the factory and started honing the primary bevel. This was not parallel to LN's factory bevel. I assumed the honing guide was more precise and kept going.

Once I established the new primary bevel, you'd think the micro-bevel would be parallel to that new edge, coming out of the same jig, no?

I experienced this same issue on some old chisels.

I've read that clamping the iron in too tight can cause problems but I've had things pop loose during honing when I thought the screws were snug.

Checked the blade with my Woodpeckers 8" square and it's a tiny bit out of square, but it's really just one corner where I can see daylight.

Stones are Shapton, lapped with a diamond plate and regularly cleaned of particles.

Thoughts?

Thanks.


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## BigPimpin (May 9, 2017)

I have one of those too. I have the EXACT same issue. But when I'm done sharpening a chisel, it is beyond razor sharp. Even with the micro bezel at the wrong angle. So I just go with it.

I guess its a good thing I pay like $20 for a set of 4 chisels….


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## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

> I have one of those too. I have the EXACT same issue. But when I m done sharpening a chisel, it is beyond razor sharp. Even with the micro bezel at the wrong angle. So I just go with it.
> 
> I guess its a good thing I pay like $20 for a set of 4 chisels….
> 
> - BigPimpin


Good to know I'm not just being stupid with it. Yes, it's still getting me sharp tools, but I'm not impressed with the jig.


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

I had similar Problems. My fix is to use the registration to set the micro bevel.


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## BigPimpin (May 9, 2017)

So pull the chisel out of the of the guide and re-register it to do the micro-bezel??

I figured once you removed the blade from the guide it would be just about impossible to get the same angle again. I will try this later today….


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## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

> So pull the chisel out of the of the guide and re-register it to do the micro-bezel??
> 
> I figured once you removed the blade from the guide it would be just about impossible to get the same angle again. I will try this later today….
> 
> - BigPimpin


Well, what if you're able to get the micro-bevel parallel to primary, but both are out of square?


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## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

accidentally double posted…


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## JRsgarage (Jan 2, 2017)

same issue. i bought the mk2 to replace the veritas sharpening system because constant battle with squareness but realized….sold it(also, too many attachments to buy). still use the veritas ss and eclipse because i feel i can really crank down on the blade holders. still little out of square but easily addressed by lateral adjusters if doing plane irons..

one thing convenient about veritas ss is micro bevels are easy and convenient but don't even use its refer guide


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## MagicalMichael (Dec 26, 2016)

Sometimes we overlook the obvious stuff. One of the Veritas guides has a flat roller designed for chisels and one as a convex roller designed to help taper the edges of plane irons. Are you perhaps using the wider unit on your chisels? I am also a relatively new user of this jig but have found that if I am not careful to tighten the two pressure knobs by repeatedly alternating between them, then the chisel or plane iron can move a little bit. On multiple occasions I have run into this problem and had to reregister the setup.

I've been trying to bring a good old set of Marples chisels back to sharp so have given my jig some long workouts on oil stones.

Michael


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I guess it's not much help to you, Ben, but I have not had that problem. I did find that the regular head was pretty weak on chisels due to a lack of surface area for gripping, so I got the so-called narrow blade head, which clamps from the sides.

I was concerned when I sharpened the blade on a new plane recently that it was not parallel to the existing edge, but checking it with my square showed the Mk II was doing it right. We're only talking about being able to see a thin bead of light, so it wasn't a big deal anyway.

I do dislike how tight you have to turn the knobs to get it tight enough not to shift during use. The knobs are too small in my opinion to get a good grip. I keep some 4" channel locks handy for that. I also find that the the narrow blade head often does not seat the edges of the chisel fully in the channel. For that, I tighten it, then wiggle the chisel and tighten it again.

If you like the jig and plan to keep using it, I do recommend the narrow blade head for chisels. Also, crank down those knobs for plane blades, since the slightest shift is all it takes to skew the edge slightly.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

I have the same problem the the MKII, mainly with narrow chisels. It's great for plane blades and wider chisels but my narrow chisels all ended up with a small skew no matter how carefully I set them in the MKII. Haven't tried the narrow blade attachment for the MKII yet; the majority of my sharpening now is with a cheap "Eclipse" type sharpening jig.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

I fought the same issues with the jig. Would get a good edge but off from square. I only used it for a short period of time and then decided on simply holding the tool, be it chisel or blade in my hands and free hand sharpening. I can do very well doing that and to do a micro bevel, I just raise just a smidge. It works well enough. If I'm trying to reestablish the angle, say for an old chisel I find, I use my rotary sharpener and free hand there too. I check every little bit to make sure I am on track with square and I am getting the right angle or very close.


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## Chris208 (Mar 8, 2012)

I had the same problem. It went a way when I started making sure that the knobs were tightened equally. I found that if one side of the clamping mechanism was higher than the other, I would bet a skewed bevel.


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## AUswimKC (Jan 24, 2013)

Buy the LN guide. Keep the LV for any skewed blades.

I just wish the LV narrow guide went out to 2+ inches. That would make it a good jig


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## mlipps (May 8, 2015)

Same problem here. Returned mine in fact twice. Never got it to work consistently. Even have the same Shapton stones. I'll keep it around for now but I think I'm going to go the way of freehand. Too frustrating relying on an unreliable jig.


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## eflanders (May 2, 2013)

I too have had issues when sharpening certain chisels. My solution was like Chris208. I also added a strip of rubber in the clamping mechanism. It now prevents the chisels from moving.


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## WillieMcCoy (Jan 12, 2017)

> I have one of those too. I have the EXACT same issue. But when I m done sharpening a chisel, it is beyond razor sharp. Even with the micro bezel at the wrong angle. So I just go with it.
> 
> I guess its a good thing I pay like $20 for a set of 4 chisels….
> 
> - BigPimpin


Same experience here. The oddest thing is that the micro-bevel is at an opposite angle to the primary bevel (both sharpened with the MK guide).


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

That is why I put away my honing guide and do it by hand. Much more precise and consistent.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Isn't it a bit weird that the old Eclipse does a great job? You can't have mine. 
I guess that I'm just too old to change.
Hmmmmmm? Oil stones, oil, strop….......
Works for me every time.
Bill


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## mitch_56 (Feb 7, 2017)

When I read the instructions that come with the MKll, they clearly stated that the micro-bevel won't be parallel with the edge, but that it does not affect blade squareness and it won't affect performance.

I use the Mk2 and love it. The micro-bevel isn't parallel, but my blades are cutting better than ever, and the edge is still perfectly square to the sides, or at least as perfect as an engineer's square can tell me.


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