# Building a Shed -- Outdoor Sheds, Outside tool shop, Outdoor Storage



## GabrielX (Aug 25, 2010)

Anyone know where I might find some good plans or dimensions/parts list for a decent 9X10, 9X11, 9X12, 9X13, 9X14 shed??


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Jenn and I have been mulling over the idea of building a 'snowblower/lawnmover seasonal yard tools type shed (to get these out of my shop…uhh garage). I don't think it would be too difficult to draft one up yourself, that is what I intend to do once I get a little bit of time.


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

When I built my shed I got a book on storage shed from the reference book section at Lowes. It was a helpful guide to get the project started.

I built a 10×12, and that has turned out to be a decent size for our lawn and garden equipment.


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## charlie48 (Sep 21, 2009)

You can find plans for sheds at Menards and I'm sure the other box stores, but may I suggest buying pre made trusses insted of building them, makes the build faster and I think the cost of the trusses vurses the time to build them is a push.
Good luck with your build !!


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## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

Charlie's right about pre-made trusses the cost to self-build is minimal and time saved is great as for plans make your own you decide were you want stuff just remember its just a box

http://www.selfstorage-london.com/Free_Storage_Shed_Plans.htm

try is site

Andy


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## BTKS (Nov 30, 2008)

Why 9 feet as a base dimension? Nothing wrong with it but it seems to be a waste of materials or the use of a lot of little pieces. A standard shed, especially as narrow as 9 or 10 feet is a simple rafter and joist system. Trusses are expensive and rafters are cheap common material and easy to cut once a pattern is made. Don't forget the birds-mouth to lock the top plate and use joists to keep the walls from pushing out. You'll be fine and the money saved can push the dimension out a little. Linear feet are cheap because you have to build the end walls anyway. Go as big as you can, you'll be glad you did when it starts filling up.
Hope this helps, BTKS


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

+1 on building your rafters. I was nervous about that when I started, but like BTKS points out, once you decide on the pitch of your roof, using a Swanson framing square will get you through the rafter portion.

Mine was a fun learning experience and it is in the end just building a big box.

I went 5/12 on my roof and that worked well for my shed. Once you mark and test fit one rafter pair then use one of them and mark all your others for consistency. I used 1x wood for my ridge board and held it in place with a 2×4 until the rafters and plywood tied everything together.
















I did add lattice work and a planter under the window.


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## james87gardener (Jan 1, 2014)

I think, that this site not bad. But it is quite expensive..


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

Plans can be found, or if you are clever you can wing it or catch closeouts etc. In any case, my words of advise, first Tie that bitch down somehow, amazing what heavy winds can do, easiest way is use a post hole digger in each corner and than stick a piece of threaded rod into the cement, and bolt it down. Cheap and effective and it makes your insurance company cover it should it get flattened. LOL, they wont cover you for being flattened by a tornado unless it tied down, like that would make a difference. 2nd elevate the floor supports/foundation, buy some bricks and put the foundation on them, so that the foundation is actually supported above ground and air, mice, snakes etc can actually go under your shed. Seems crazy but they are under it and no problem, but the air circulation will prevent the wood floor from rotting. Finally, consider using metal C-beams for the foundation Frame rather than Wood, another guard against rotting. Pay attention to the gauge, C-beams can be doubled for strength by putting one inside the perpendicular edges being on opposite sides so you have a square shape. They quite cheap too.


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