# spray adhesive - what's the trick?



## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

I'm new to the whole scrollsawing thing. Can someone tell me please what the trick is to getting the spray adhesive to make the paper stick to the wood? I'm using a can of DURO All-Purpose Spray Adhesive (Blue can, 01-81088 might be the model #). I spray the wood, apply the paper, it peels off. I spray the paper, apply it to the wood, it peels off. Sometimes it sticks for a little bit and then when I start scrolling it lifts off and I'm stuck trying to guide the wood with one hand and hold down the pattern with the other.
I've tried walnut, cherry, bubinga, and next up is maple if that makes a difference.

Please advise. And if I'm using the wrong spray glue, please be very specific with what I need to buy and where (locally) I can buy it.

thanks
Joe


----------



## Pezking7p (Nov 17, 2013)

Not sure of the adhesive, but being familiar with similar things, after you spray it you need to let the solvents evaporate before applying the paper. Should be tacky after a minute or so.


----------



## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

This is how I do it,I first use painter's tape to tape over the piece of wood I'll be cutting,then lightly spray the painter's tape ,wait a couple of minutes till its tacky ,then stick the pattern on it.it when finish cutting it will be easy to remove the pattern and the tape off the workpiece.


----------



## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

I use Easy-Tack Repositional Adhesive by Krylon….. Instructions say spray a light coat to both surfaces and let dry for 60 seconds before you stick the two surfaces together…..Maybe that would work for your adhesive…good luck…


----------



## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I use 3M Super 77 but the brand really don't seem to matter for this application,I also cover the whole work piece with 2" clear packing tape .


----------



## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

I may have been applying too quickly after spraying. I'll try waiting until it gets tacky. And the tape trick is good to know too. Thanks!


----------



## jimr1cos (Mar 27, 2013)

Joe, I use Aileen's Tacky Spray(30 second wait time), but I don't think the brand is real critical. I also cover the wood with either clear packaging tape or blue painters tape. I prefer the blue stuff.


----------



## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

I put down a layer of blue painters tape. The spay glue the back of the pattern and position. Then cover with clear packing tape. Works every time.


----------



## Stoli (Mar 7, 2009)

Have you tried applying the adhesive to both the paper and the wood? I recently did this by mistake and had trouble getting the paper off - had to sand it off.


----------



## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

The latest one I tried waiting 1 minute after spraying. It is sticking fine now. I didn't use tape because it's cold out, the tape is in the workshop, the scrollsaw is in the living room, and I'm feeling lazy. But the next one I'll try adding tape to the wood first.


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

the tape acts like a lubricant and helps to cut down on splintering


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Just wait a little while when it no longer raises itself when you put your finger on it or another way of saying it is touch dry,and no longer fresh wet, then apply both sides and it will stick imediately. Obviously spray both sides and wait.People who cant wait a few minutes get into all sorts of trouble and the parts raise from each other. Alistair


----------



## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Look out for 'Spray Mount' by 3M - it's the best of the spray adhesives in my opinion. It goes on thin and evenly without solvent coming through the paper and bubbling, also allows for repositioning without making a mess. Expensive but worth it, the Festool of spray adhesives.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

To remove the stubborn pattern fragments, I soak the piece in lacquer thinner. The paper just rubs off after 4-5 minutes of soaking. Might need to moisten a rag and rub the piece to get all the residual glue off. 
But, Ken's suggestion would eliminate the need for the thinner.


----------



## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I have a better trick - Don't stick the paper to the wood. Print your pattern on a laser printer (inverse if not symmetrical. ) if you don't have a laser printer, photocopy it. Now use a pattern transfer tool (wood burner kits come with them) and transfer your pattern. Cover it with clear packing tape on both sides. It helps keep the blades cool (true story).

I do this for chip carving as well. It sands off easily. You can also do a chemical transfer (acetone) but it's messier, harder to transfer easily and doesn't come off as easily.

It has to be laser printed or electrostatic photocopied. Inkjet will not transfer.


----------



## Sk1pp3r (Jul 18, 2013)

Naptha works really well at removing the paper as well.


----------



## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

JustJoe, my new scrollsaw is in the garage…I do all my DW735 work in the living room. I might try it your way.


----------



## hobby1 (Feb 10, 2012)

Didn't want to read all the posts above, so if this is a repeat oh well, ,,,,,
but when I was scrollsawing alot, I used glue sticks, it stuck and stuck and stuck, finally when it was time to take the pattern off, well just get a good mouthfull of spit, and let er rip then smear it all over the pattern, eventually it peeled off in sticky grimy strands, then rub the wood real hard with your fingers, to get rid of the rest of the spital paper wads, and the wood ends up with a sheen like a laquer, on it, smooth and shiney as can be, don't know if it was the spit, or the glue or both together, but it left a shine.

I ususally don't post such derogrative comments, LOL, but you have a lot of funny posts, so I figured this would be close to your sense of humor in posts.
I mean that in a respectable, way, just having fun with your humorous way of how you post things.
Please take it in all fun.


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Joe, Sheila Landry-scrollgirl, was having problems also and one solution-my great grandaughter is not here
so I can not copy a link- she wrote about in part 901 of her blog-Spray glue and labels & tape. It is a good
solution, if it will work for you. I should be nice, but I forgot how. You should learn to research Lumberjocks.


----------



## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

> I use 3M Super 77 but the brand really don t seem to matter for this application,I also cover the whole work piece with 2" clear packing tape .
> 
> - distrbd


Do you put the clear packing tape on the wood or over everything after applying the template paper? I'm getting real tired of the residual spray glue on the wood.



> I put down a layer of blue painters tape. The spay glue the back of the pattern and position. Then cover with clear packing tape. Works every time.
> 
> - Pimzedd


This seems to make the most sense with the least cleanup.


----------



## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Like Pimzedd said:
1=use green/blue or any masking tape to cover the wood.
2= spray the glue on the back of the pattern, stick the pattern to the wood/masking tape.
3= use 2" clear tape over the pattern front & back.
4=drill the holes.
After all the cuts are done you'll love how easily the pattern/masking tape comes off the workpiece.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I have had better luck with a glue stick. It holds the pattern well and removes a lot easier than sprays. When you replace the cap on the stick be sure to give it an additional press until you hear it 'click' home or else it will dry up on you. Not messy, no fumes in your nose and it's a lot cheaper than spray. Give it a try you don't have much to lose if you don't like it.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

I glue all my patterns (marquetry) with HHG in the method taught at ASFM. I am also often applying the pattern to a sacrificial veneer on the front of the packet. It may seem a lot of work but it never fails and you can cut the tiniest of parts without losing your line. 
Of course, it removes with cold water.


----------



## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

Thanks guys. No more cussin' and swearin'...you wouldn't believe some of the combinations of word substitutes for the word paper.


----------



## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

You have to coat both surfaces, let them dry and then put them together. When you want to take it apart use rubber cement thinner (Bestine) in a squirt can from an art supply store to part the two pieces and use the thinner on a rag to clean off the glue. I was a graphic designer in the 70s and 80s and know of what I speak.


----------



## sawdust703 (Jul 6, 2014)

I sand the wood I'm going to use for the project w/a pad sander to 220, blow the dust off w/an air hose, wipe it clean w/mineral spirits on a rag. Let it dry. Cover the wood w/blue painters tape, spray the pattern w/Elmers spray, wait about a minute & stick it to the tape. If ya let it dry an hour or so before ya start drillin holes, the pattern is more apt to stay put. When I'm done cutting, I just peel the tape off. I've not had much trouble w/glue residue. I clean up the fuzzies, & its ready for finish!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

It seems that as usual there are many viable options.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I use blue painters tape on the wood and spray back of p pattern with 3M 77 adhesive. Making certain that the wood is smooth and dust free is a great idea.

I only use clear packing tape when cutting very hard wood or ones that tend to burn such as cherry.


----------



## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

Isn't this a great learning center? I love this site…and all my brothers. I feel chills coming on…


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

One other point that should be made is not to use too much glue when you spray it on.


----------



## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

> I have had better luck with a glue stick. It holds the pattern well and removes a lot easier than sprays.
> 
> - stefang


+1.
Using glue stick( instead of spray adhesive) also works very well,I have used it a few times.
Adhesive backed printing paper seems to be the easiest to use, I don't know how expensive they are but I'll have to give it a try.


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Rubber cement never fails, but takes work to apply and remove. To remove, you just roll your finger over the surface and the cement peels off and sticks to your finger. Doing art work ,you use a lot of rubber cement and would end up with a pretty good size ball of dry cement which you use to remove more cement. I don't like spray cement. It gets all over places you don't want it to be.


----------



## CharleyL (Mar 10, 2009)

I use "Applique Film" for the more difficult projects. It is a sticky backed (peel and stick) clear film that can be run through a laser printer or photo copier. You just peel off the backing and stick the image to your work. If you didn't get it positioned perfectly you can peel it off and try again until you get it right. It lubricates the blade like the packing tape does and it peels off cleanly (by scraping with your finger nail) when you have completed the project and it doesn't leave glue residue behind when peeled off. I use applique film for scroll sawing and for power carving where paper images would be difficult to remove. It's available in Art and Drafting Supply stores. The last time that I bought a box (8 1/2 X 11) they cost about $.84 / sheet.

Charley


----------



## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> I glue all my patterns (marquetry) with HHG in the method taught at ASFM. I am also often applying the pattern to a sacrificial veneer on the front of the packet. It may seem a lot of work but it never fails and you can cut the tiniest of parts without losing your line.
> Of course, it removes with cold water.
> 
> - shipwright


In your opinion, does bottled hide glue like Old Brown Glue work just as well as hot?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

I guess it would work for this but the drying time would be much longer (overnight).


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

I have found that applying a shelf liner film instead of blue tape works much better. It goes on much faster, is easier to remove, and is much cheaper than tape. It also has the same lubricating properties. After I get the shelf liner on the wood, I use a spray adhesive to attach the pattern to the film. When the cutting is done the film is really easy to remove and leaves no residue behind.

Lots of great ideas on this thread.

+1 to the hot hide glue for attaching marquetry patterns to veneer packs. Yes that is for you Paul


----------

