# Bandsaw: Bearings or cool blocks?



## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

My Powermatic 14" BS came with bearings. What's the general consensus regarding one over the other (bearings/cool blocks). I find that if I use an 1/8" blade it can sometimes slip out of between the bearings.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I had a Craftsman with bearings … was OK until the bearings went bad and started squealing like crazy. Sold it and bought a Jet 14" that came with blocks … no problems yet, and the blocks do seem to be quieter.

I picked up a spare set of blocks (Olson Cool Blocks from Rockler) just to have them on hand, but so far haven't seen any significant wear.

If your PM has the Quick Release, keep an eye on the blade and guide bearings when you re-apply tension. I installed a Carter QR on my Jet and when I release tension, the blade slips out of the guide blocks. Not a problem so long as I remember to slip the blade back in between the guides before re-applying tension.

-Gerry


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

I put a full set of Carters on my Delta/Rockwell a few years ago and havent look back. they are wonderful


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I had a set of Accura rollers on my HF band saw, yanked them off and replaced them with Cool blocks on the OEM mounts. MUCH better tracking…


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I pulled the bearings off my Grizzly G0555X and went with Cool Blocks … spaced about 0.02 to 0.04 away from the blade.

Quieter, better tracking, and-in theory-better blade life.

I remember checking in Mark Duginske's "The Band Saw Handbook." He's a fan of Cool Blocks (vs. bearings), too.

FWIW, I also bought (cheap !) a set of the ceramic guide blocks for my saw, BUT … they're 12.66mm diameter, and my saw takes 12mm diameter. I don't think there's any way to sand down the ceramic, and am not particularly interested in reaming out the guide block holders.

My only option may be to order yet another set of guide block holders, ream THEM out, and give the ceramics a try.


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## stevenhsieh (Jan 8, 2010)

Any small blades MUST use cool blocks or else they will not track properly.

SO that is 1/8, 3/16, 1/4


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

I always use bearings. If you do not maintain the cool blocks they can wear crooked and allow the blade to drift. I have also seen some of the vinyl ones melt on to the blade and discolor or burn into the wood. Just my opinion….Technically though, I think either work well if you maintain the saw correctly.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I like cool blocks.

You can make your own out of wood, lignum vitae or hard maple.

My Jet bandsaw had plastic cool blocks in it when I bought it used. Don't go that way.


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## ward63 (Dec 12, 2009)

Lignum works great for me, never a problem From 1/8" to 2".


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## DrAllred (Sep 2, 2010)

Carter sells a special roller bearing for small blades, Band Saw Stabilizer, I have seen it work very well with 1/8" blades doing scroll work.


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## petemohr (Dec 11, 2009)

Neil - What did you use to convert from roller bearings to Cool Blocks? Did you find round cool blocks or ???

pete


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I did, Pete.

Cool Blocks part #CB50055BL
12mm in diameter 
3/4" long

It's a plug-and-play swap for the "upgraded" guide block holders that Grizzly sells. For my G0555X, though, I DID have to buy about $20 worth of Grizzly bits to make the switch. That info can be found …. on this thread's comments….


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I am a cool black kind of a guy,,they are inexpensive, the last ans they work very well. 
I just wish I could buy a longer length of it that I would cut as needed


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Bert* wrote:

"I am a cool black kind of a guy,"

You can't tell from that picture of you ;-)


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## Domer (Mar 8, 2009)

The Carter DVD on bandsaw tune ups recommends bearings. Their reasoning was that the cool blocks wear out and unless you constantly adjust them, they will not track as well.

I have the Carter bearing for the small blades and it does work well.

Domer


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Domer* wrote:

"The Carter DVD on bandsaw tune ups recommends bearings. Their reasoning was that the cool blocks wear out and unless you constantly adjust them, they will not track as well."

But … in all fairness … Carter sells LOTS of bearing-equipped stabilizers/guides, right, and … nothing like Cool Blocks.

I'm more moved when a company praises its competitors products than I am when they "put them down."

I'm not sure EITHER is a bad way to go. I think Duginske's take-my words, not his-was more that … the Cool Blocks do a darned good job, at a fraction of the price of decent bearings.

And "a darned good job" may well be all that needs to be done.

With blocks or bearings-including thrust-a few thousandths from the blade-it's *going* to track straight.

And I think that's 95% of what needs to be done.

Just my $0.02. YMMV. ;-)


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Cool Blocks on my Magna. Love 'em.
Bill


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I think if I were doing a lot of scroll work with a narrow blade and tight turns, I would invest in the Carter system. It looks good, and one of the guys in my Saturday morning group swears by it.

A 1/4" blade is fine for most of the work I do with my band-saw … when I need to do some re-saw work, I saddle up my 1/2" Highland Woodslicer.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

The biggest problem I have with the Carter system is the cost. I have an inquiry waiting for an answer from them I still don't have that. 
I don't know if it's possible to convert my Chraftsman saw to cool blocks or not.
Charlie


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I'm in the *"if it aint broke,don't fix it"* camp,for years I used the metal blocks then they got worn out so I bought cool blocks and have had no issues ,may be those Carter bearings are an upgrade to those who needed an upgrade,in my case never needed anything more than those cool blocks.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I put ball bearing guides on my Ridgid bandsaw and quickly learned that it was not a good idea. When cutting and taking off small slivers of wood, the slivers would fall down and get wedged between the blade and the lower guide. This caused the lower guide assembly to break. I replaced the lower guide, but used cool blocks. I still have ball bearings on the top guide. This way, small slivers of wood can't get trapped by the lower guide.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Follow up on my previous post about Carter's stabilizer system. I bought the stabilizer and love it. I use it with 1/8" and 3/16" blades on my Chraftsman saw. 
It will cut circles a small as a dime. Plus it seems like it cuts straighter than my saw did with the bearings that came with it.

Charlie


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Definitely blocks for me. Between the constant failure of bearings, the squealing and the difficulty in adjusting them tight to the blade, I decided that bearings were an expensive upgrade that makes bandsaws less useful.

Since I can cut 1/16" veneers with a properly tuned bandsaw equipped with cool blocks, I'm happy with just having blocks.


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## bladeburner (Dec 12, 2009)

Lignum vitae for me too.

*"The Carter DVD on bandsaw tune ups recommends bearings. Their reasoning was that the cool blocks wear out and unless you constantly adjust them, they will not track as well."*

Unless you never change blades, you'll have to adjust them!


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

I vote for cool blocks. You wouldn't believe how many times I've had to replace bearings, so those things are going . . . . . . . . . . . . to be replaced. I will keep the one Carter bearing for the 1/8" blade, as it works just fine.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

While this is an old thread, the information remains pertinent.

I've had stock guide blocks, then cool blocks and, now, I have both standard roller guides (four upper side bearing sand one backer bearing and the same on the bottom) and the Carter Stabilizer guide.

When the bearings on my standard guides go bad, they cost about twenty each from Powermatic. Instead, I buy them (608zz) in eight packs for around ten bucks ($10.00), including shipping.

The Carter Stabilizer bearing, with its center groove tire runs about fifty, or you can just buy a R4A-2RS bearing, press the bearing out of the tire and and press a new bearing in for around five bucks ($5.00).

As others pointed out, the four bearing guide system will handle one inch blades. Whether the tension spring will is another issue, of course. My cool blocks were more limited.

I do find myself replacing bearings about twice a year on the stock guides and once a year, or longer, with the Stabilzer. At the prices mentioned, for third party vendors, that isn't a big concern for me. Too, replacing bearing is only a bit more difficult than adjusting for blade thicknesses.

Forgetting to set the bearings back for wider, thicker bearings seems to be what beats up my bearings most, by the way.

In the end, keeping spares of what may be prone to the occasional breakdown has proven to be a good practice.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> Definitely blocks for me. Between the constant failure of bearings, the squealing and the difficulty in adjusting them tight to the blade, I decided that bearings were an expensive upgrade that makes bandsaws less useful.
> 
> Since I can cut 1/16" veneers with a properly tuned bandsaw equipped with cool blocks, I m happy with just having blocks.
> 
> - JAAune


+1

For 99% of the work I do.

Whip out the Carter system for fine blade work projects.

This is one of those rare instances where spending more does not necessarily mean better.


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

My bandsaw is about 30 years old. It was not performing well, so I upgraded tires, link belt, spring, and put on a Carter blade stabilizer. Still didn't work all that well. I put on a really good blade and cool blocks and it has improved a ton. Still not perfect, but a whole lot better than it was.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> I pulled the bearings off my Grizzly G0555X and went with Cool Blocks … spaced about 0.02 to 0.04 away from the blade.
> 
> Quieter, better tracking, and-in theory-better blade life.
> 
> ...


Dremel with diamond blade.


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

Or diamond sharpening stones.


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## OldEd (Dec 26, 2013)

Sir, your "Powermatic 14 inch saw" came, I believe ('cause mine did…) with the full kit of Carter stuff: the bearing guides and the tension relief. That stuff isn't cheap.

I've had mine for five years now, and I've not had any problems with the guides at all. The thumb-screw is a bit awkward to tighten or loosen, but I made a sort of wrench which takes the trouble of getting my fat fingers in there to grip it.

Yes, they do need some attention, but so do cool blocks or any other blade guide.


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