# Building a KARA Hummer Layout Duck Boat



## DustyMark

*Building the Lower Frame*

*The Requirement*

I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.

*The Boat*

We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .

*The Materials*

Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.

*The Builder*

I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.

*Frame*

The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.










The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.










I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.










The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


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## SPalm

DustyMark said:


> *Building the Lower Frame*
> 
> *The Requirement*
> 
> I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.
> 
> *The Boat*
> 
> We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .
> 
> *The Materials*
> 
> Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.
> 
> *The Builder*
> 
> I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.
> 
> *Frame*
> 
> The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


Nice build.
This will be fun to watch.

Steve


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## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Building the Lower Frame*
> 
> *The Requirement*
> 
> I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.
> 
> *The Boat*
> 
> We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .
> 
> *The Materials*
> 
> Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.
> 
> *The Builder*
> 
> I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.
> 
> *Frame*
> 
> The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


Thanks, I had sworn off blogging since it's so time consuming, but I was apparently spending too much time in my basement shop this week. I can do the blogging upstairs and stay in my lovely wife's good graces. I guess blogging will serve as my "governor" on this project!


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## TheLorax

DustyMark said:


> *Building the Lower Frame*
> 
> *The Requirement*
> 
> I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.
> 
> *The Boat*
> 
> We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .
> 
> *The Materials*
> 
> Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.
> 
> *The Builder*
> 
> I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.
> 
> *Frame*
> 
> The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


Looking good! I've been thinking about building a simple boat lately. Something I can car top, so under 100 lbs and something I can row upstream in the slow current of the Augusta Canal that parallels the Savannah River here in Augusta, Georgia.


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## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Building the Lower Frame*
> 
> *The Requirement*
> 
> I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.
> 
> *The Boat*
> 
> We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .
> 
> *The Materials*
> 
> Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.
> 
> *The Builder*
> 
> I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.
> 
> *Frame*
> 
> The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


Chesapeake Light Craft has amazing plans and kits for rowing craft. I'm sure they have one that would suit your purpose. This link takes you to their Eastport Pram.

I'm thinking the KARA Hummer would be too much of a "barge" for your intended use. It wouldn't handle boat wakes of waves very well since it is so low to the water. It's a highly specialized boat intended mostly for use in the marsh.


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## TheLorax

DustyMark said:


> *Building the Lower Frame*
> 
> *The Requirement*
> 
> I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.
> 
> *The Boat*
> 
> We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .
> 
> *The Materials*
> 
> Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.
> 
> *The Builder*
> 
> I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.
> 
> *Frame*
> 
> The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


I've looked at CLC's website among others. I'm somewhat of an armchair builder.  I've had my eye on michalak's pole punt lately. Not fancy or pretty but if built out of occume I think it could be built fairly light and with only a 3' beam I'm hoping it would be able to row decent upstream. I like the fact that it's fairly stable and has enough room to be comfortable for fishing but still small enough to pack it in to places a bigger boat won't work. 
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/polepunt/index.htm


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## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Building the Lower Frame*
> 
> *The Requirement*
> 
> I moved back to MN in June 2014, after nearly 30 years away, and my brother quickly introduced me to duck hunting. We're not on any of the major flyways here, so we need to put everything in our favor possible. We read about the advantages of layout boats in providing maximum concealment from wary ducks and talked about it in the duck blind all last season. Our hunting party consists of my brother, my nephew, and me and we decided to build three one-man layout boats.
> 
> *The Boat*
> 
> We chose the KARA Hummer, a very popular and reasonably simple boat to build. Follow this link to, Rob Leonard's, web site. The boat is 14' long, has a beam of 45 1/2", is 11 1/14" deep not counting the skegs, and often weighs in at about 120 pounds. It is supposedly very stable as a shooting platform. I plan to propel it in open water with oars that I will make from Chesapeake Light Craft plans . Once we get into the wild rice, I will propel it with a Superstick fiberglass push pole .
> 
> *The Materials*
> 
> Each builder will chose materials based on availability and budget. I bought premium white pine from Menards, when it was on sale a few months ago, for the framework. It is free of knots and quite light, but it is pretty soft. I chose 1/4" Marine Douglas fir plywood for the skin that I special ordered from Menards at $35 per sheet delivered. I'm trying Raka epoxy for the first time and will glass the inside surfaces of the boat with 2.3 oz. cloth, while the outer surfaces will receive 6 oz. cloth.
> 
> *The Builder*
> 
> I'm a fairly experienced boat builder. I've built two kayaks from plans, one kayak from a kit, and a small ski boat from a plan. I'll depart from the plan occasionally to incorporate techniques from past builds.
> 
> *Frame*
> 
> The plan calls for 3/4" by 13' 11" boards for the gunnels. Other blogs speak of these breaking while torturing them into shape. I decided to laminate my gunnels from two layers of 3/8" wood to make the bend easier and eliminate drama during assembly. I also chose to scarf 8' boards together to meet the length requirement. These choices added extra steps, but were worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ribs and end pieces are dry fit with screws to the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paused the build to construct a pair of simple, sturdy saw horses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lower frame is assembled with screws and epoxy. All the clamps were needed to laminate the two layers of the gunnels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll assemble the upper frame.


I've poled a punt boat in Cambridge, England years ago. They move along well in slow moving rivers. That is definitely a more straight forward build…


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## DustyMark

*Assembling the Upper Frame*

*Strategy*

I let the epoxy cure on the lower frame for about 12 hours before proceeding with the upper frame. I dry assembled the parts with screws before gluing to ensure everything fit. I continue to use epoxy, thickened with colloidal silica to a mayonnaise consistency, to glue each joint in the boat.

I never figured out how the designer fastened the plywood to the gunnels. In the boats I've built in the past, the gunnels are planed to an angle that gives the deck or hull plywood a flat surface for a good nail and glue bond. I suspect that the plans assume the builder will just make the plywood meet at the edge and nail it in place with gaps at the gunnel. A lot of these boats are in use, so it obviously works. I'm not satisfied with that approach and decided to make changes as needed to allow for planing the gunnels for better glue-up.

I read that another builder added two supports between the cockpit support rib and the deck rib to strengthen the deck for walking on it. This seemed like a good modification and I did the same to my frame.

*Problems*

I did not like the lines of the cockpit deck support from the plans and the deck rib was 1/2" low which caused the deck to have a dip. This would have made it very difficult to bend and affix the 1/4" plywood deck. I made a new deck rib that was 4" tall instead of 3 1/2" tall. This eliminated the bothersome dip. I also redesigned the cockpit support deck rib to facilitate landing the plywood on the gunnels at a better angle.

*Upper Frame*

Assembly of the upper frame was pretty simple once I made new ribs. Even with all of the prep work, I had to use two different batches of glue due to the amount of time it took to assemble. The first batch would have cooked off before I was done.










A view of the upper frame before adding the extra supports.










Close-up of the cockpit deck support.










Deck supports installed. I splayed these at 10 degrees to follow the curve of the plywood more closely.










Close-up of side deck supports. I used a 13 degree angle for the side deck support cleats. This landed the plywood at a good angle on the gunnels.










Side view.










Front view.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss how I planed the gunnels.


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## DustyMark

*Planing the Gunnels*

*Tools for the Job*

Planing the gunnels requires a sharp hand plane, a straight edge and a flexible stick. I use a 10" smoothing plane for this task since it is easier to handle than a longer plane and much of the work is on a curve. On larger boats, I've used a hand-held power planer to good effect. I started with that and it seemed like overkill for 3/4" gunnels.

*Rib Transitions*

The angle that the plywood skin will land on the gunnel changes throughout the length of the gunnel. My youngest son's approach to cooking is that you don't need to slavishly measure as much as "you've just gotta love it." That's not a bad approach for planing the gunnels. I use a straight edge from the side deck support cleat to check my progress in the straight areas. When I hit the curves near the bow and stern, I switch to bending a flexible piece of hardwood strip about 1/4" thick over the ribs to predict how the skin of the boat will lay.










This is the deck side of the gunnel looking toward the cockpit before planing. Notice that the cockpit deck support is also a little bit high in this photo. I may have to redesign that support prior to building boats two and three…










After planing, the ribs flow nicely into the gunnel.










The transitions from the ribs to the gunnels on the hull side are more severe. This requires a steeper angle and more planing to achieve a nice transition.










After planing, the hull side of the rib flows into the gunnel. Notice there is much more surface area for the plywood hull to bond to the gunnel when it's nailed and glued. It will be easy for a nail head to encroach into the cargo compartment if I start it too close to the center of the gunnel during plywood installation.










Here's my 10" smoothing plane laying in a pile of shavings from one gunnel.










Even though I spaced the screws through the gunnel pretty close, I still hit screw heads when I planed the hull side of the gunnel. However, my Tormek sharpening system made short work of grinding a clean edge on the battered blade.

*Results*

My planing job isn't perfect, but it is likely good enough. I'll dry fit the plywood and plane any problem spots that become apparent with the actual skin applied.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss bracket installation for stabilizer holes that will hold my anchor pole.


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## benchbuilder

DustyMark said:


> *Planing the Gunnels*
> 
> *Tools for the Job*
> 
> Planing the gunnels requires a sharp hand plane, a straight edge and a flexible stick. I use a 10" smoothing plane for this task since it is easier to handle than a longer plane and much of the work is on a curve. On larger boats, I've used a hand-held power planer to good effect. I started with that and it seemed like overkill for 3/4" gunnels.
> 
> *Rib Transitions*
> 
> The angle that the plywood skin will land on the gunnel changes throughout the length of the gunnel. My youngest son's approach to cooking is that you don't need to slavishly measure as much as "you've just gotta love it." That's not a bad approach for planing the gunnels. I use a straight edge from the side deck support cleat to check my progress in the straight areas. When I hit the curves near the bow and stern, I switch to bending a flexible piece of hardwood strip about 1/4" thick over the ribs to predict how the skin of the boat will lay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the deck side of the gunnel looking toward the cockpit before planing. Notice that the cockpit deck support is also a little bit high in this photo. I may have to redesign that support prior to building boats two and three…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After planing, the ribs flow nicely into the gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transitions from the ribs to the gunnels on the hull side are more severe. This requires a steeper angle and more planing to achieve a nice transition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After planing, the hull side of the rib flows into the gunnel. Notice there is much more surface area for the plywood hull to bond to the gunnel when it's nailed and glued. It will be easy for a nail head to encroach into the cargo compartment if I start it too close to the center of the gunnel during plywood installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my 10" smoothing plane laying in a pile of shavings from one gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though I spaced the screws through the gunnel pretty close, I still hit screw heads when I planed the hull side of the gunnel. However, my Tormek sharpening system made short work of grinding a clean edge on the battered blade.
> 
> *Results*
> 
> My planing job isn't perfect, but it is likely good enough. I'll dry fit the plywood and plane any problem spots that become apparent with the actual skin applied.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss bracket installation for stabilizer holes that will hold my anchor pole.


Very cool, i love it!!!


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## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Planing the Gunnels*
> 
> *Tools for the Job*
> 
> Planing the gunnels requires a sharp hand plane, a straight edge and a flexible stick. I use a 10" smoothing plane for this task since it is easier to handle than a longer plane and much of the work is on a curve. On larger boats, I've used a hand-held power planer to good effect. I started with that and it seemed like overkill for 3/4" gunnels.
> 
> *Rib Transitions*
> 
> The angle that the plywood skin will land on the gunnel changes throughout the length of the gunnel. My youngest son's approach to cooking is that you don't need to slavishly measure as much as "you've just gotta love it." That's not a bad approach for planing the gunnels. I use a straight edge from the side deck support cleat to check my progress in the straight areas. When I hit the curves near the bow and stern, I switch to bending a flexible piece of hardwood strip about 1/4" thick over the ribs to predict how the skin of the boat will lay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the deck side of the gunnel looking toward the cockpit before planing. Notice that the cockpit deck support is also a little bit high in this photo. I may have to redesign that support prior to building boats two and three…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After planing, the ribs flow nicely into the gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transitions from the ribs to the gunnels on the hull side are more severe. This requires a steeper angle and more planing to achieve a nice transition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After planing, the hull side of the rib flows into the gunnel. Notice there is much more surface area for the plywood hull to bond to the gunnel when it's nailed and glued. It will be easy for a nail head to encroach into the cargo compartment if I start it too close to the center of the gunnel during plywood installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my 10" smoothing plane laying in a pile of shavings from one gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though I spaced the screws through the gunnel pretty close, I still hit screw heads when I planed the hull side of the gunnel. However, my Tormek sharpening system made short work of grinding a clean edge on the battered blade.
> 
> *Results*
> 
> My planing job isn't perfect, but it is likely good enough. I'll dry fit the plywood and plane any problem spots that become apparent with the actual skin applied.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss bracket installation for stabilizer holes that will hold my anchor pole.


Thanks. I figured it might be neat for folks to follow a wooden boat build since most of what we do in here is furniture…something different.


----------



## DustyMark

*Installing Anchor Pole Through-Hull Brackets*

*Requirement*

An option during the build is to install anchor pole through-hull brackets. Anchor poles are pushed through the hull and into the marsh bottom to hold the layout boat in place in shallow water. I figured that if one was good, two would be even better to hold the bow and stern in place during crosswind set-ups of a decoy spread. Anchor poles are quicker and won't get snagged in decoy lines like a regular anchor and line could.

I installed braces of 8/4 stock, leftover from my nose pieces, between the keel and the main deck support; carefully matching the shape and ensuring the braces were perpendicular to the waterline. I used screws and epoxy to fasten them.










These brackets are fabricated from leftover 5/4 stock and 1 1/2" PVC pipe.

*Batch Production*

I used a batch production to make the four brackets. It was safer drilling 2" holes in a board that was 15" long rather than a 3 1/2" long board.










I marked all the cuts to avoid confusion during boring.










Boring the 2" holes.










Boring the 1/4" holes for the bolts that hold the bracket in place.










Ripping the brackets in half.










Boring holes for the lower bracket. NOTE: The extra deck ribs hindered drilling the upper bracket holes. I will install the brackets on the brace before gluing the brace into the frame on the next two boats!










I used the PVC pipe as an alignment guide to be sure the upper and lower brackets were aligned to each other.










The outer diameter of the pipe was 1 7/8" and the hole saw was 2", so I used some leftover UHMW material as a shim to ensure the bracket would tighten evenly around the pipe.

I'll apply epoxy between the bracket and the brace to keep it in place.

NOTE: I'll show my sealing strategy to avoid leaks through the hull when I get to that stage in the build.










View from the opposite side.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll start to apply plywood to the hull.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fitting the Plywood Hull Panels*

*Overview*

The frame is complete and it's time to apply the 1/4" Marine Douglas Fir plywood hull panels. The plan accounts for nailing these panels in place without glue and sealing them with epoxy later.

My plan is to apply 2.3 ounce fiberglass cloth to the inside surface with a coat of epoxy before applying the panels. The potential advantage is a very durable/waterproof inside hull surface. The disadvantage is that I must fit the panels prior to final application and I have to time the application of the panel so that the epoxy isn't so stiff that it prevents the panels from bending around the ribs…I could have a disaster in the works!

*Fitting the Panels*










The process starts with cutting the middle hull panel.










I clamped the panel in place and traced the two middle ribs from the inside to be sure I would hit the ribs with screws and nails.










Drilling screw holes in the middle hull panel used for initial fitting and alignment.










Middle hull panel applied for fitting. NOTE: Notice the bulge on the right side. This formed because I didn't connect the panel to the gunnels yet. It will work itself out during final application.










The end hull panels fall away toward the bow and stern. This causes the joint line with the middle hull panel to be more of a curve. I fastened the end panel with screws in the middle 12" and then traced the overlap with the middle hull panel. This is how much must be cut from each corner to make a clean joint line.










Preparing to cut an end hull panel corner. This is where track saws shine…










I traced the shape of the gunnel on the underside of each panel during fitting and cut to within 1/4" of this line to make it easier to align nails along the gunnel.










Fitting end panels with a block plane.










I removed all the panels and sanded them with 80 grit sandpaper. Here my wife is trimming the fiberglass cloth. I'm waiting to apply the epoxy to the cloth until morning. I only work half a day tomorrow and the epoxy should be "green" cured and ready to go when I get home.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss applying the plywood hull panels.


----------



## DustyMark

*Applying the Plywood Hull Panels*

*Fiberglass Experiment*

I applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plywood hull panels before work, betting they would be "green" cured in the afternoon upon my return. Using Raka 127 Resin and Raka 350 hardener at 72 degrees and 48% humidity the fiberglass was set perfectly in about 8 hours. It was bonded, yet flexible enough to not restrict the plywood from curving around the hull ribs.










The epoxy is wet into the fiberglass cloth with a foam roller.










I never pay extra to ship the fiberglass on a roll, so there are wrinkles that need to be worked out with a spreader.










It doesn't take much effort to work out the wrinkles.

Immediately before applying the plywood panels, I applied a second layer of epoxy to fill the weave on the fiberglass cloth.

*Hull Plywood Application*

I mixed up a 6 ounce batch of thickened epoxy and my wife and I each took half the batch and spread it on the ribs and gunnels. We then screwed the middle hull panel, we had fit earlier, into position. We followed the plan instructions and worked our way from the middle, down the ribs, and onto the gunnels to affix the panels with silicon bronze ring shank nails. It took more force than I anticipated to bend the plywood to the outer ribs, but we succeeded. We then applied each end panel in a similar manner.










Setting some nails with a punch.










The hull took a nice shape.










It's definitely starting to look like a boat!










Upright view.

*Carnage*

I forgot to make my alignment tool that helps mark the nail holes to assure they landed in the center of the 3/4" gunnel. I realized this after we had already spread the thickened epoxy on the ribs and gunnels. The epoxy would have set up if I had taken the extra time to make the tool, so we rolled with it.










Unfortunately, I missed the mark on six nails and busted through the gunnel on either the inside or outside edge.










I split the wood the rest of the way and used the chip to make the repair. Thickened epoxy is both gap filling and structural and makes these repairs easy. Here I am applying the chip to the bed of epoxy.










The chip fit well in the repair. I placed tape over it and then clamped it lightly in position. I did this for all six damaged areas.

*Alignment Tool*










This simple little tool would have saved me 6 small repair jobs and also prevented me from filing most of the heads off of quite a few nails when I rounded over the hull edge in preparation for fiberglassing.










This fits over the plywood that is extending from the edge of the gunnel and finds the center of the gunnel. I trim my plywood edges ahead of time, so the slot on the alignment tool doesn't need to be crazy deep. I cut the edges of the jig to 15 degrees since the entire hull and deck meet the gunnels at about that angle.

*Flushing the Edges*

The hull panels needed to made flush with the gunnels.










A router with a flush trimming bit removed much of the excess wood, but since the hull is at an angle, there was at least 1/4' of wood remaining to remove all the way around. *NOTE:* Later in the project, I decided to not chicken out when flush trimming the deck panels. I kept the router level to the ground for a finishing cut to allow the bearing to rub flat on the gunnel and it removed all the plywood flush to the gunnel. The reason I didn't try that on the hull plywood was fear of going beyond level and removing some of the gunnel. However, removing the remaining 1/4" of hull plywood around the perimeter of the boat with hand tools was way too much work…that's what drove me to take the chance on the deck plywood. It worked fine.










I settled on my aggressive cross-cut saw and an old file that has what looks like rows of hacksaw blades for teeth. Both of these worked well for the task.

*Rounding the Edges*

The hull and the deck receive fiberglass. The fiberglass needs to bend around the gunnel to provide a double layer of protection to the gunnel. However fiberglass can't be applied around a sharp angle. That's why the edges of the hull and the deck must be rounded where they meet the gunnel. The previously mentioned file was perfect for this since many of the nail heads were too close to the edge. Thankfully, I used silicon bronze nails to apply the hull and they were easy to file off when needed.










Rounded edge.










Another view.

*Conclusion*

Even with the challenges, I'm happy with the way the hull turned out. This is a duck boat that gets painted and nobody will see the mistakes! Fiberglassing the inside of the hull panels with 2.3 ounce cloth worked well and I will do it to the deck panels also. It's an effective means of applying a light layer of waterproofing.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss sealing the hull interior for water protection.


----------



## SPalm

DustyMark said:


> *Applying the Plywood Hull Panels*
> 
> *Fiberglass Experiment*
> 
> I applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plywood hull panels before work, betting they would be "green" cured in the afternoon upon my return. Using Raka 127 Resin and Raka 350 hardener at 72 degrees and 48% humidity the fiberglass was set perfectly in about 8 hours. It was bonded, yet flexible enough to not restrict the plywood from curving around the hull ribs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The epoxy is wet into the fiberglass cloth with a foam roller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never pay extra to ship the fiberglass on a roll, so there are wrinkles that need to be worked out with a spreader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't take much effort to work out the wrinkles.
> 
> Immediately before applying the plywood panels, I applied a second layer of epoxy to fill the weave on the fiberglass cloth.
> 
> *Hull Plywood Application*
> 
> I mixed up a 6 ounce batch of thickened epoxy and my wife and I each took half the batch and spread it on the ribs and gunnels. We then screwed the middle hull panel, we had fit earlier, into position. We followed the plan instructions and worked our way from the middle, down the ribs, and onto the gunnels to affix the panels with silicon bronze ring shank nails. It took more force than I anticipated to bend the plywood to the outer ribs, but we succeeded. We then applied each end panel in a similar manner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting some nails with a punch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hull took a nice shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely starting to look like a boat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upright view.
> 
> *Carnage*
> 
> I forgot to make my alignment tool that helps mark the nail holes to assure they landed in the center of the 3/4" gunnel. I realized this after we had already spread the thickened epoxy on the ribs and gunnels. The epoxy would have set up if I had taken the extra time to make the tool, so we rolled with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I missed the mark on six nails and busted through the gunnel on either the inside or outside edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I split the wood the rest of the way and used the chip to make the repair. Thickened epoxy is both gap filling and structural and makes these repairs easy. Here I am applying the chip to the bed of epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chip fit well in the repair. I placed tape over it and then clamped it lightly in position. I did this for all six damaged areas.
> 
> *Alignment Tool*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple little tool would have saved me 6 small repair jobs and also prevented me from filing most of the heads off of quite a few nails when I rounded over the hull edge in preparation for fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fits over the plywood that is extending from the edge of the gunnel and finds the center of the gunnel. I trim my plywood edges ahead of time, so the slot on the alignment tool doesn't need to be crazy deep. I cut the edges of the jig to 15 degrees since the entire hull and deck meet the gunnels at about that angle.
> 
> *Flushing the Edges*
> 
> The hull panels needed to made flush with the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A router with a flush trimming bit removed much of the excess wood, but since the hull is at an angle, there was at least 1/4' of wood remaining to remove all the way around. *NOTE:* Later in the project, I decided to not chicken out when flush trimming the deck panels. I kept the router level to the ground for a finishing cut to allow the bearing to rub flat on the gunnel and it removed all the plywood flush to the gunnel. The reason I didn't try that on the hull plywood was fear of going beyond level and removing some of the gunnel. However, removing the remaining 1/4" of hull plywood around the perimeter of the boat with hand tools was way too much work…that's what drove me to take the chance on the deck plywood. It worked fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I settled on my aggressive cross-cut saw and an old file that has what looks like rows of hacksaw blades for teeth. Both of these worked well for the task.
> 
> *Rounding the Edges*
> 
> The hull and the deck receive fiberglass. The fiberglass needs to bend around the gunnel to provide a double layer of protection to the gunnel. However fiberglass can't be applied around a sharp angle. That's why the edges of the hull and the deck must be rounded where they meet the gunnel. The previously mentioned file was perfect for this since many of the nail heads were too close to the edge. Thankfully, I used silicon bronze nails to apply the hull and they were easy to file off when needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounded edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> 
> Even with the challenges, I'm happy with the way the hull turned out. This is a duck boat that gets painted and nobody will see the mistakes! Fiberglassing the inside of the hull panels with 2.3 ounce cloth worked well and I will do it to the deck panels also. It's an effective means of applying a light layer of waterproofing.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss sealing the hull interior for water protection.


It really is looking like a boat.
Nice recovery with the nails, and I agree that it will not be a problem once all the epoxy is done.

Fun to watch, especially from a sofa. 
Steve


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Applying the Plywood Hull Panels*
> 
> *Fiberglass Experiment*
> 
> I applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plywood hull panels before work, betting they would be "green" cured in the afternoon upon my return. Using Raka 127 Resin and Raka 350 hardener at 72 degrees and 48% humidity the fiberglass was set perfectly in about 8 hours. It was bonded, yet flexible enough to not restrict the plywood from curving around the hull ribs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The epoxy is wet into the fiberglass cloth with a foam roller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never pay extra to ship the fiberglass on a roll, so there are wrinkles that need to be worked out with a spreader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't take much effort to work out the wrinkles.
> 
> Immediately before applying the plywood panels, I applied a second layer of epoxy to fill the weave on the fiberglass cloth.
> 
> *Hull Plywood Application*
> 
> I mixed up a 6 ounce batch of thickened epoxy and my wife and I each took half the batch and spread it on the ribs and gunnels. We then screwed the middle hull panel, we had fit earlier, into position. We followed the plan instructions and worked our way from the middle, down the ribs, and onto the gunnels to affix the panels with silicon bronze ring shank nails. It took more force than I anticipated to bend the plywood to the outer ribs, but we succeeded. We then applied each end panel in a similar manner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting some nails with a punch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hull took a nice shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely starting to look like a boat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upright view.
> 
> *Carnage*
> 
> I forgot to make my alignment tool that helps mark the nail holes to assure they landed in the center of the 3/4" gunnel. I realized this after we had already spread the thickened epoxy on the ribs and gunnels. The epoxy would have set up if I had taken the extra time to make the tool, so we rolled with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I missed the mark on six nails and busted through the gunnel on either the inside or outside edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I split the wood the rest of the way and used the chip to make the repair. Thickened epoxy is both gap filling and structural and makes these repairs easy. Here I am applying the chip to the bed of epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chip fit well in the repair. I placed tape over it and then clamped it lightly in position. I did this for all six damaged areas.
> 
> *Alignment Tool*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple little tool would have saved me 6 small repair jobs and also prevented me from filing most of the heads off of quite a few nails when I rounded over the hull edge in preparation for fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fits over the plywood that is extending from the edge of the gunnel and finds the center of the gunnel. I trim my plywood edges ahead of time, so the slot on the alignment tool doesn't need to be crazy deep. I cut the edges of the jig to 15 degrees since the entire hull and deck meet the gunnels at about that angle.
> 
> *Flushing the Edges*
> 
> The hull panels needed to made flush with the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A router with a flush trimming bit removed much of the excess wood, but since the hull is at an angle, there was at least 1/4' of wood remaining to remove all the way around. *NOTE:* Later in the project, I decided to not chicken out when flush trimming the deck panels. I kept the router level to the ground for a finishing cut to allow the bearing to rub flat on the gunnel and it removed all the plywood flush to the gunnel. The reason I didn't try that on the hull plywood was fear of going beyond level and removing some of the gunnel. However, removing the remaining 1/4" of hull plywood around the perimeter of the boat with hand tools was way too much work…that's what drove me to take the chance on the deck plywood. It worked fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I settled on my aggressive cross-cut saw and an old file that has what looks like rows of hacksaw blades for teeth. Both of these worked well for the task.
> 
> *Rounding the Edges*
> 
> The hull and the deck receive fiberglass. The fiberglass needs to bend around the gunnel to provide a double layer of protection to the gunnel. However fiberglass can't be applied around a sharp angle. That's why the edges of the hull and the deck must be rounded where they meet the gunnel. The previously mentioned file was perfect for this since many of the nail heads were too close to the edge. Thankfully, I used silicon bronze nails to apply the hull and they were easy to file off when needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounded edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> 
> Even with the challenges, I'm happy with the way the hull turned out. This is a duck boat that gets painted and nobody will see the mistakes! Fiberglassing the inside of the hull panels with 2.3 ounce cloth worked well and I will do it to the deck panels also. It's an effective means of applying a light layer of waterproofing.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss sealing the hull interior for water protection.


Thanks Steve. Materials are arriving today to build flip blind doors for me and a dog blind for Copper. I plan to blog through the entire fitting out process and into the hunting season. I'll also show the process of building a set of oars and a launching trailer. The boat is probably about 60% of the overall project.


----------



## shipwright

DustyMark said:


> *Applying the Plywood Hull Panels*
> 
> *Fiberglass Experiment*
> 
> I applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plywood hull panels before work, betting they would be "green" cured in the afternoon upon my return. Using Raka 127 Resin and Raka 350 hardener at 72 degrees and 48% humidity the fiberglass was set perfectly in about 8 hours. It was bonded, yet flexible enough to not restrict the plywood from curving around the hull ribs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The epoxy is wet into the fiberglass cloth with a foam roller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never pay extra to ship the fiberglass on a roll, so there are wrinkles that need to be worked out with a spreader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't take much effort to work out the wrinkles.
> 
> Immediately before applying the plywood panels, I applied a second layer of epoxy to fill the weave on the fiberglass cloth.
> 
> *Hull Plywood Application*
> 
> I mixed up a 6 ounce batch of thickened epoxy and my wife and I each took half the batch and spread it on the ribs and gunnels. We then screwed the middle hull panel, we had fit earlier, into position. We followed the plan instructions and worked our way from the middle, down the ribs, and onto the gunnels to affix the panels with silicon bronze ring shank nails. It took more force than I anticipated to bend the plywood to the outer ribs, but we succeeded. We then applied each end panel in a similar manner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting some nails with a punch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hull took a nice shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely starting to look like a boat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upright view.
> 
> *Carnage*
> 
> I forgot to make my alignment tool that helps mark the nail holes to assure they landed in the center of the 3/4" gunnel. I realized this after we had already spread the thickened epoxy on the ribs and gunnels. The epoxy would have set up if I had taken the extra time to make the tool, so we rolled with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I missed the mark on six nails and busted through the gunnel on either the inside or outside edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I split the wood the rest of the way and used the chip to make the repair. Thickened epoxy is both gap filling and structural and makes these repairs easy. Here I am applying the chip to the bed of epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chip fit well in the repair. I placed tape over it and then clamped it lightly in position. I did this for all six damaged areas.
> 
> *Alignment Tool*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple little tool would have saved me 6 small repair jobs and also prevented me from filing most of the heads off of quite a few nails when I rounded over the hull edge in preparation for fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fits over the plywood that is extending from the edge of the gunnel and finds the center of the gunnel. I trim my plywood edges ahead of time, so the slot on the alignment tool doesn't need to be crazy deep. I cut the edges of the jig to 15 degrees since the entire hull and deck meet the gunnels at about that angle.
> 
> *Flushing the Edges*
> 
> The hull panels needed to made flush with the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A router with a flush trimming bit removed much of the excess wood, but since the hull is at an angle, there was at least 1/4' of wood remaining to remove all the way around. *NOTE:* Later in the project, I decided to not chicken out when flush trimming the deck panels. I kept the router level to the ground for a finishing cut to allow the bearing to rub flat on the gunnel and it removed all the plywood flush to the gunnel. The reason I didn't try that on the hull plywood was fear of going beyond level and removing some of the gunnel. However, removing the remaining 1/4" of hull plywood around the perimeter of the boat with hand tools was way too much work…that's what drove me to take the chance on the deck plywood. It worked fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I settled on my aggressive cross-cut saw and an old file that has what looks like rows of hacksaw blades for teeth. Both of these worked well for the task.
> 
> *Rounding the Edges*
> 
> The hull and the deck receive fiberglass. The fiberglass needs to bend around the gunnel to provide a double layer of protection to the gunnel. However fiberglass can't be applied around a sharp angle. That's why the edges of the hull and the deck must be rounded where they meet the gunnel. The previously mentioned file was perfect for this since many of the nail heads were too close to the edge. Thankfully, I used silicon bronze nails to apply the hull and they were easy to file off when needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounded edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> 
> Even with the challenges, I'm happy with the way the hull turned out. This is a duck boat that gets painted and nobody will see the mistakes! Fiberglassing the inside of the hull panels with 2.3 ounce cloth worked well and I will do it to the deck panels also. It's an effective means of applying a light layer of waterproofing.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss sealing the hull interior for water protection.


Looks like a nice piece of work.
If I might offer a tip, I find glass cloth much easier to apply if smoothed out flat on the dry wood and then wetted out by pouring a puddle of epoxy in the middle and spreading outwards with the bondo spreader that you finished with.
Rollers work well with polyester resin but with the stickier epoxy they tend to lift the cloth behind them and make extra work.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Applying the Plywood Hull Panels*
> 
> *Fiberglass Experiment*
> 
> I applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plywood hull panels before work, betting they would be "green" cured in the afternoon upon my return. Using Raka 127 Resin and Raka 350 hardener at 72 degrees and 48% humidity the fiberglass was set perfectly in about 8 hours. It was bonded, yet flexible enough to not restrict the plywood from curving around the hull ribs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The epoxy is wet into the fiberglass cloth with a foam roller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never pay extra to ship the fiberglass on a roll, so there are wrinkles that need to be worked out with a spreader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't take much effort to work out the wrinkles.
> 
> Immediately before applying the plywood panels, I applied a second layer of epoxy to fill the weave on the fiberglass cloth.
> 
> *Hull Plywood Application*
> 
> I mixed up a 6 ounce batch of thickened epoxy and my wife and I each took half the batch and spread it on the ribs and gunnels. We then screwed the middle hull panel, we had fit earlier, into position. We followed the plan instructions and worked our way from the middle, down the ribs, and onto the gunnels to affix the panels with silicon bronze ring shank nails. It took more force than I anticipated to bend the plywood to the outer ribs, but we succeeded. We then applied each end panel in a similar manner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting some nails with a punch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hull took a nice shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely starting to look like a boat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upright view.
> 
> *Carnage*
> 
> I forgot to make my alignment tool that helps mark the nail holes to assure they landed in the center of the 3/4" gunnel. I realized this after we had already spread the thickened epoxy on the ribs and gunnels. The epoxy would have set up if I had taken the extra time to make the tool, so we rolled with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I missed the mark on six nails and busted through the gunnel on either the inside or outside edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I split the wood the rest of the way and used the chip to make the repair. Thickened epoxy is both gap filling and structural and makes these repairs easy. Here I am applying the chip to the bed of epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chip fit well in the repair. I placed tape over it and then clamped it lightly in position. I did this for all six damaged areas.
> 
> *Alignment Tool*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple little tool would have saved me 6 small repair jobs and also prevented me from filing most of the heads off of quite a few nails when I rounded over the hull edge in preparation for fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fits over the plywood that is extending from the edge of the gunnel and finds the center of the gunnel. I trim my plywood edges ahead of time, so the slot on the alignment tool doesn't need to be crazy deep. I cut the edges of the jig to 15 degrees since the entire hull and deck meet the gunnels at about that angle.
> 
> *Flushing the Edges*
> 
> The hull panels needed to made flush with the gunnels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A router with a flush trimming bit removed much of the excess wood, but since the hull is at an angle, there was at least 1/4' of wood remaining to remove all the way around. *NOTE:* Later in the project, I decided to not chicken out when flush trimming the deck panels. I kept the router level to the ground for a finishing cut to allow the bearing to rub flat on the gunnel and it removed all the plywood flush to the gunnel. The reason I didn't try that on the hull plywood was fear of going beyond level and removing some of the gunnel. However, removing the remaining 1/4" of hull plywood around the perimeter of the boat with hand tools was way too much work…that's what drove me to take the chance on the deck plywood. It worked fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I settled on my aggressive cross-cut saw and an old file that has what looks like rows of hacksaw blades for teeth. Both of these worked well for the task.
> 
> *Rounding the Edges*
> 
> The hull and the deck receive fiberglass. The fiberglass needs to bend around the gunnel to provide a double layer of protection to the gunnel. However fiberglass can't be applied around a sharp angle. That's why the edges of the hull and the deck must be rounded where they meet the gunnel. The previously mentioned file was perfect for this since many of the nail heads were too close to the edge. Thankfully, I used silicon bronze nails to apply the hull and they were easy to file off when needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounded edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> 
> Even with the challenges, I'm happy with the way the hull turned out. This is a duck boat that gets painted and nobody will see the mistakes! Fiberglassing the inside of the hull panels with 2.3 ounce cloth worked well and I will do it to the deck panels also. It's an effective means of applying a light layer of waterproofing.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss sealing the hull interior for water protection.


Paul, good call. I've done it both ways. I had never used this 2.3 ounce cloth before and thought I might get better saturation starting with a roller.


----------



## DustyMark

*Sealing the Hull Interior*

*Objective*

This boat is going to get wet and stay wet for days at a time. I plan to seal the interior with epoxy to give it at least some protection from the elements. My main concern was with the plywood. That is sealed well with the fiberglass cloth. The keel, gunnels, and ribs will be sealed by caulking the seams where they meet the plywood with thickened epoxy and coating the rest with unthickened epoxy.

*Caulking*

I imagine a builder could use silicone caulk to seal the joints, but I'm using epoxy since it will last just as long as the rest of the boat.










Start with epoxy that is thickened like this.










Plop the epoxy into a 1 quart bag that has the corner nipped off. I use a smooth plastic scraper to move the epoxy into the corner of the bag with the hole.



















Squeeze the bag to lay a bead of epoxy on your seams. You need to squirt that epoxy in a timely manner since 3 ounces of epoxy in such a thick blob could cook off pretty quick and it's too expensive to waste.



















I cut the edge of a scraper to make a custom scraper of a small radius to spread the epoxy evenly. These beads of epoxy will help prevent water from getting under the keel and the ribs. I applied thickened epoxy to the ribs prior to applying the plywood, so the underside of the ribs are protected.

*Painting on the Epoxy*

The plywood is already coated with fiberglass and the seams inside are caulked. Next, the rest of the interior is coated with epoxy that is applied with a chip brush. There's nothing special about this and it's pretty much a drudge task. However, timing is something to consider. If you brush epoxy on your caulk seams before they are cured enough, they could run. If you paint the epoxy on at just the right time, it may smooth out any rough areas along the caulk line.










It looks like I'm obtaining satisfactory coverage with two coats of epoxy. Some would advise more, but I own a well-used kayak that I built in 1996 that is doing just fine with two coats. Hopefully I'll be too "smart" to duck hunt 20 years from now!










I'm not neat at this paint work. I got lots of epoxy on my sleeves and some on my pants. Here they are curing before I can bring them upstairs!

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll show how to keep the anchor pole holes from leaking through the hull.


----------



## shipwright

DustyMark said:


> *Sealing the Hull Interior*
> 
> *Objective*
> 
> This boat is going to get wet and stay wet for days at a time. I plan to seal the interior with epoxy to give it at least some protection from the elements. My main concern was with the plywood. That is sealed well with the fiberglass cloth. The keel, gunnels, and ribs will be sealed by caulking the seams where they meet the plywood with thickened epoxy and coating the rest with unthickened epoxy.
> 
> *Caulking*
> 
> I imagine a builder could use silicone caulk to seal the joints, but I'm using epoxy since it will last just as long as the rest of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start with epoxy that is thickened like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plop the epoxy into a 1 quart bag that has the corner nipped off. I use a smooth plastic scraper to move the epoxy into the corner of the bag with the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squeeze the bag to lay a bead of epoxy on your seams. You need to squirt that epoxy in a timely manner since 3 ounces of epoxy in such a thick blob could cook off pretty quick and it's too expensive to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the edge of a scraper to make a custom scraper of a small radius to spread the epoxy evenly. These beads of epoxy will help prevent water from getting under the keel and the ribs. I applied thickened epoxy to the ribs prior to applying the plywood, so the underside of the ribs are protected.
> 
> *Painting on the Epoxy*
> 
> The plywood is already coated with fiberglass and the seams inside are caulked. Next, the rest of the interior is coated with epoxy that is applied with a chip brush. There's nothing special about this and it's pretty much a drudge task. However, timing is something to consider. If you brush epoxy on your caulk seams before they are cured enough, they could run. If you paint the epoxy on at just the right time, it may smooth out any rough areas along the caulk line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm obtaining satisfactory coverage with two coats of epoxy. Some would advise more, but I own a well-used kayak that I built in 1996 that is doing just fine with two coats. Hopefully I'll be too "smart" to duck hunt 20 years from now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not neat at this paint work. I got lots of epoxy on my sleeves and some on my pants. Here they are curing before I can bring them upstairs!
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll show how to keep the anchor pole holes from leaking through the hull.


Nice job. I used to use the plastic bag method all the time. It is just so good for placing the material exactly where you need it. Around my shop we called the bag full of epoxy a "pukemouse" because it looks kind of like a mouse and it … well you get the idea.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Sealing the Hull Interior*
> 
> *Objective*
> 
> This boat is going to get wet and stay wet for days at a time. I plan to seal the interior with epoxy to give it at least some protection from the elements. My main concern was with the plywood. That is sealed well with the fiberglass cloth. The keel, gunnels, and ribs will be sealed by caulking the seams where they meet the plywood with thickened epoxy and coating the rest with unthickened epoxy.
> 
> *Caulking*
> 
> I imagine a builder could use silicone caulk to seal the joints, but I'm using epoxy since it will last just as long as the rest of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start with epoxy that is thickened like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plop the epoxy into a 1 quart bag that has the corner nipped off. I use a smooth plastic scraper to move the epoxy into the corner of the bag with the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squeeze the bag to lay a bead of epoxy on your seams. You need to squirt that epoxy in a timely manner since 3 ounces of epoxy in such a thick blob could cook off pretty quick and it's too expensive to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the edge of a scraper to make a custom scraper of a small radius to spread the epoxy evenly. These beads of epoxy will help prevent water from getting under the keel and the ribs. I applied thickened epoxy to the ribs prior to applying the plywood, so the underside of the ribs are protected.
> 
> *Painting on the Epoxy*
> 
> The plywood is already coated with fiberglass and the seams inside are caulked. Next, the rest of the interior is coated with epoxy that is applied with a chip brush. There's nothing special about this and it's pretty much a drudge task. However, timing is something to consider. If you brush epoxy on your caulk seams before they are cured enough, they could run. If you paint the epoxy on at just the right time, it may smooth out any rough areas along the caulk line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm obtaining satisfactory coverage with two coats of epoxy. Some would advise more, but I own a well-used kayak that I built in 1996 that is doing just fine with two coats. Hopefully I'll be too "smart" to duck hunt 20 years from now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not neat at this paint work. I got lots of epoxy on my sleeves and some on my pants. Here they are curing before I can bring them upstairs!
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll show how to keep the anchor pole holes from leaking through the hull.


Ha! Ha! I picked up the technique during a Chesapeake Light Craft build. It definitely beats stuffing epoxy into the top end of a syringe.


----------



## English

DustyMark said:


> *Sealing the Hull Interior*
> 
> *Objective*
> 
> This boat is going to get wet and stay wet for days at a time. I plan to seal the interior with epoxy to give it at least some protection from the elements. My main concern was with the plywood. That is sealed well with the fiberglass cloth. The keel, gunnels, and ribs will be sealed by caulking the seams where they meet the plywood with thickened epoxy and coating the rest with unthickened epoxy.
> 
> *Caulking*
> 
> I imagine a builder could use silicone caulk to seal the joints, but I'm using epoxy since it will last just as long as the rest of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start with epoxy that is thickened like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plop the epoxy into a 1 quart bag that has the corner nipped off. I use a smooth plastic scraper to move the epoxy into the corner of the bag with the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squeeze the bag to lay a bead of epoxy on your seams. You need to squirt that epoxy in a timely manner since 3 ounces of epoxy in such a thick blob could cook off pretty quick and it's too expensive to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the edge of a scraper to make a custom scraper of a small radius to spread the epoxy evenly. These beads of epoxy will help prevent water from getting under the keel and the ribs. I applied thickened epoxy to the ribs prior to applying the plywood, so the underside of the ribs are protected.
> 
> *Painting on the Epoxy*
> 
> The plywood is already coated with fiberglass and the seams inside are caulked. Next, the rest of the interior is coated with epoxy that is applied with a chip brush. There's nothing special about this and it's pretty much a drudge task. However, timing is something to consider. If you brush epoxy on your caulk seams before they are cured enough, they could run. If you paint the epoxy on at just the right time, it may smooth out any rough areas along the caulk line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm obtaining satisfactory coverage with two coats of epoxy. Some would advise more, but I own a well-used kayak that I built in 1996 that is doing just fine with two coats. Hopefully I'll be too "smart" to duck hunt 20 years from now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not neat at this paint work. I got lots of epoxy on my sleeves and some on my pants. Here they are curing before I can bring them upstairs!
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll show how to keep the anchor pole holes from leaking through the hull.


Mark, Just found your blog, Your work looks great. I've gone back and read all your entries. Looking forward to your next blog entry. Finishing the outside is lots of fun, sand, sand, and then sand some more.

I've been working on a large power boat for 6 months now, so I have done most the tasks you have on my boat. I probably have 100 hours in sanding on my boat. I've been blogging it here on Lumberjocks.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Sealing the Hull Interior*
> 
> *Objective*
> 
> This boat is going to get wet and stay wet for days at a time. I plan to seal the interior with epoxy to give it at least some protection from the elements. My main concern was with the plywood. That is sealed well with the fiberglass cloth. The keel, gunnels, and ribs will be sealed by caulking the seams where they meet the plywood with thickened epoxy and coating the rest with unthickened epoxy.
> 
> *Caulking*
> 
> I imagine a builder could use silicone caulk to seal the joints, but I'm using epoxy since it will last just as long as the rest of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start with epoxy that is thickened like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plop the epoxy into a 1 quart bag that has the corner nipped off. I use a smooth plastic scraper to move the epoxy into the corner of the bag with the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squeeze the bag to lay a bead of epoxy on your seams. You need to squirt that epoxy in a timely manner since 3 ounces of epoxy in such a thick blob could cook off pretty quick and it's too expensive to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the edge of a scraper to make a custom scraper of a small radius to spread the epoxy evenly. These beads of epoxy will help prevent water from getting under the keel and the ribs. I applied thickened epoxy to the ribs prior to applying the plywood, so the underside of the ribs are protected.
> 
> *Painting on the Epoxy*
> 
> The plywood is already coated with fiberglass and the seams inside are caulked. Next, the rest of the interior is coated with epoxy that is applied with a chip brush. There's nothing special about this and it's pretty much a drudge task. However, timing is something to consider. If you brush epoxy on your caulk seams before they are cured enough, they could run. If you paint the epoxy on at just the right time, it may smooth out any rough areas along the caulk line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm obtaining satisfactory coverage with two coats of epoxy. Some would advise more, but I own a well-used kayak that I built in 1996 that is doing just fine with two coats. Hopefully I'll be too "smart" to duck hunt 20 years from now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not neat at this paint work. I got lots of epoxy on my sleeves and some on my pants. Here they are curing before I can bring them upstairs!
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll show how to keep the anchor pole holes from leaking through the hull.


John, the scope and quality of your build is amazing! Launch day will be a significant event for you…


----------



## DustyMark

*Anchor Pole Through-Hull Hole and Collar*

*Overview*

We mostly hunt shallow water and the anchor pole sleeve will simplify maintaining position in the decoys with an anchor pole. I opted to install one in the bow and the stern. These go through the hull and I was concerned about water leaking through the sleeve into the hull. Instead of making the sleeve flush with the exterior bottom of the hull, I decided to make the sleeve fit flush on the inside bottom of the hull, surround it with a collar, and seal it in a bed of marine caulk.










View of the sleeve and collar before gluing the collar to the floor.

*Making the Sleeve Collar*

I used 1/4" marine plywood scraps to make the sleeves.










I produced the collars in a batch.

*Drilling Through the Hull*

I figured a way to make a very clean through-hull hole by using a flush trimming bit in the router. I began by clamping the sleeve in place and tracing around the outside.










A right angle attachment made the hole easy to drill the reference hole.










View of hole through the hull.










With the sleeve clamped in place, the inside of the sleeve (PVC pipe) provides the perfect template for the flush trimming bit. The through-hull hole is perfectly aligned and very clean.

*Gluing the Sleeve Collar*

We flipped the boat upright to glue the sleeve collar.










I taped some spacer material to center the sleeve in the collar. Notice the wax paper to avoid gluing the sleeve in the collar.










The hull is curved in this area and the collar had some spring to it when pushed against the floor. I took advantage of this and cut scraps of wood to wedge between the collar and the sleeve clamp. This worked great to clamp the sleeve in place while the epoxy cured.










The collar aligned well. Unfortunately, I glued the collar before going to bed and decided I would scrape any excess glue in the morning….MISTAKE! The epoxy got underneath the sleeve and was green cured by morning. I had to spend a bit of time with a bent mortise chisel to chisel out the glue from the lip of the hole.

I will seal the hole and collar with epoxy to protect the wood. After I'm done fiberglassing the exterior of the boat, I'll apply marine caulk on the lip of the hole, push the sleeve into the caulk, and clamp it in place. This will produce a waterproof seal that will give me great confidence.

*Next*

In the next installment we'll install the deck plywood.


----------



## DustyMark

*Applying the Plywood Deck Panels*

*Overview*

This is the stage where it really starts to look like a boat! With the the interior sealed and the final fitting of the anchor pole hole, collar, and sleeve complete, the deck can be installed. The sequence is similar to installing the hull panels with the added step of lining up the the through-deck hole for the anchor pole sleeve.

*Fitting the Bow and Stern Deck Panels*

The bow and stern deck panels are fastened around a curved rib and this causes the seams along the cockpit and where the panel lays across the forward rib to be thrown off of 90 degrees. It also causes the distance between the tabs over the side decks to be greater than the width of the cockpit.










My wife helped me bend the plywood around the cockpit support deck rib and we were able to mark the cuts we needed to make to adjust for the curve and the width between the tabs. The cut for the seam along the cockpit edge results in a curve. I made this as a series of straight cuts with my track saw. It may seem picky to cut this curve, but the rib is only 3/4" thick and if you don't make the adjustment, the panel will be 1/4" from the cockpit in spots and that doesn't give a good purchase for the nail into the rib.

After achieving a good fit along the cockpit edge, I drove screws in the deck rib and the bow to hold the deck plywood in place. Next, I marked the cuts that would center the side deck tabs over the outer ribs.










This photo shows the affect of the curve on the side deck tab that centers over the cockpit support deck rib.










While the deck panel was temporarily screwed in place, I traced the location of the deck support rib, anchor pole sleeve, and the gunnels along the perimeter. I used the location of the deck support rib to drill small holes that would ensure I drove the nails into the center of the rib. I cut the deck panel outside the line to make the panel easier to handle and ensure I could use my nail alignment tool.










Preparing to bore the hole for the anchor pole sleeve.










Hole alignment was good. It required slight filing on one side since it is on a curve and is no longer a perfect circle.










View of the dry fit panel. The screws are holding the panel in place at the cockpit edge and at the bow. NOTE: See if the first panel fits well on the other end. If so, trace it and save yourself a bunch of time on the other panel.

*Fiberglassing Under the Deck Panels*

I used 2.3 ounce fiberglass cloth to seal the underside of the deck panels. I applied the epoxy and waited about 8 hours for it to achieve a green cure. I applied a second coat of resin shortly before applying the panels.










View of the deck panels and the cockpit floor with the lightweight fiberglass cloth applied.

*Applying the Deck Panels*

The curves on the bow and stern deck panels were less severe than the hull panels. This made it easier to fasten these panels. NOTE: I continue to use thickened epoxy before fastening anything to the boat. I applied this mixture to the top of the frame parts before applying the plywood panel.










Driving the silicon bronze ring shank nails into the centers of the gunnels was much easier using this alignment tool. I only blew through slightly with one nail this time and that was just bad nailing as the nail ran crooked on me.










I applied the bow and stern deck panels first. I then fitted and made the final cuts for the side deck panels. NOTE: Wait to apply the second coat of epoxy on the side deck panels until after you've made these cuts!










View with all plywood panels applied, the main ribs cut to final depth, and the floor laid in place. NOTE: Don't cut the main ribs to final depth for the floor until after you've applied the deck panels. The ribs will crack from the stress of the hull plywood trying to straighten itself out. The deck panels counter this stress.










Another view.










This is one low-profile, duck-ambush vessel!

*Flush Trimming the Deck Panels*

I decided that flush trimming the deck panels to within only 1/4" of the gunnel like I did with the hull panels left me with way too much hand work. This time I removed the final 1/4" by extending the bit to full depth and holding the router level with the ground. This gave the bearing a good surface to follow and removed all of the excess plywood. However, the danger is that if the router is leaned too far toward the center of the boat, you will begin to remove the gunnel. Take your time…the risk is worth it.

*Rounding the Deck Panel Edge*

The deck panel edge needs to be rounded to about a 1/4" radius so that the fiberglass for both the deck and the hull can wrap around it to the other side. Fiberglass won't lay over a sharp angle. I used my rasp to round over the deck edge in the same way I rounded the edges of the hull panels.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss fiberglassing the hull.


----------



## English

DustyMark said:


> *Applying the Plywood Deck Panels*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> This is the stage where it really starts to look like a boat! With the the interior sealed and the final fitting of the anchor pole hole, collar, and sleeve complete, the deck can be installed. The sequence is similar to installing the hull panels with the added step of lining up the the through-deck hole for the anchor pole sleeve.
> 
> *Fitting the Bow and Stern Deck Panels*
> 
> The bow and stern deck panels are fastened around a curved rib and this causes the seams along the cockpit and where the panel lays across the forward rib to be thrown off of 90 degrees. It also causes the distance between the tabs over the side decks to be greater than the width of the cockpit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife helped me bend the plywood around the cockpit support deck rib and we were able to mark the cuts we needed to make to adjust for the curve and the width between the tabs. The cut for the seam along the cockpit edge results in a curve. I made this as a series of straight cuts with my track saw. It may seem picky to cut this curve, but the rib is only 3/4" thick and if you don't make the adjustment, the panel will be 1/4" from the cockpit in spots and that doesn't give a good purchase for the nail into the rib.
> 
> After achieving a good fit along the cockpit edge, I drove screws in the deck rib and the bow to hold the deck plywood in place. Next, I marked the cuts that would center the side deck tabs over the outer ribs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the affect of the curve on the side deck tab that centers over the cockpit support deck rib.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the deck panel was temporarily screwed in place, I traced the location of the deck support rib, anchor pole sleeve, and the gunnels along the perimeter. I used the location of the deck support rib to drill small holes that would ensure I drove the nails into the center of the rib. I cut the deck panel outside the line to make the panel easier to handle and ensure I could use my nail alignment tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preparing to bore the hole for the anchor pole sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hole alignment was good. It required slight filing on one side since it is on a curve and is no longer a perfect circle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the dry fit panel. The screws are holding the panel in place at the cockpit edge and at the bow. NOTE: See if the first panel fits well on the other end. If so, trace it and save yourself a bunch of time on the other panel.
> 
> *Fiberglassing Under the Deck Panels*
> 
> I used 2.3 ounce fiberglass cloth to seal the underside of the deck panels. I applied the epoxy and waited about 8 hours for it to achieve a green cure. I applied a second coat of resin shortly before applying the panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the deck panels and the cockpit floor with the lightweight fiberglass cloth applied.
> 
> *Applying the Deck Panels*
> 
> The curves on the bow and stern deck panels were less severe than the hull panels. This made it easier to fasten these panels. NOTE: I continue to use thickened epoxy before fastening anything to the boat. I applied this mixture to the top of the frame parts before applying the plywood panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Driving the silicon bronze ring shank nails into the centers of the gunnels was much easier using this alignment tool. I only blew through slightly with one nail this time and that was just bad nailing as the nail ran crooked on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied the bow and stern deck panels first. I then fitted and made the final cuts for the side deck panels. NOTE: Wait to apply the second coat of epoxy on the side deck panels until after you've made these cuts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View with all plywood panels applied, the main ribs cut to final depth, and the floor laid in place. NOTE: Don't cut the main ribs to final depth for the floor until after you've applied the deck panels. The ribs will crack from the stress of the hull plywood trying to straighten itself out. The deck panels counter this stress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one low-profile, duck-ambush vessel!
> 
> *Flush Trimming the Deck Panels*
> 
> I decided that flush trimming the deck panels to within only 1/4" of the gunnel like I did with the hull panels left me with way too much hand work. This time I removed the final 1/4" by extending the bit to full depth and holding the router level with the ground. This gave the bearing a good surface to follow and removed all of the excess plywood. However, the danger is that if the router is leaned too far toward the center of the boat, you will begin to remove the gunnel. Take your time…the risk is worth it.
> 
> *Rounding the Deck Panel Edge*
> 
> The deck panel edge needs to be rounded to about a 1/4" radius so that the fiberglass for both the deck and the hull can wrap around it to the other side. Fiberglass won't lay over a sharp angle. I used my rasp to round over the deck edge in the same way I rounded the edges of the hull panels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss fiberglassing the hull.


Mark,

Looking Good!! I bet That 2.3 oz cloth wets out easy. Great Idea for waterproofing the inside.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Applying the Plywood Deck Panels*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> This is the stage where it really starts to look like a boat! With the the interior sealed and the final fitting of the anchor pole hole, collar, and sleeve complete, the deck can be installed. The sequence is similar to installing the hull panels with the added step of lining up the the through-deck hole for the anchor pole sleeve.
> 
> *Fitting the Bow and Stern Deck Panels*
> 
> The bow and stern deck panels are fastened around a curved rib and this causes the seams along the cockpit and where the panel lays across the forward rib to be thrown off of 90 degrees. It also causes the distance between the tabs over the side decks to be greater than the width of the cockpit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife helped me bend the plywood around the cockpit support deck rib and we were able to mark the cuts we needed to make to adjust for the curve and the width between the tabs. The cut for the seam along the cockpit edge results in a curve. I made this as a series of straight cuts with my track saw. It may seem picky to cut this curve, but the rib is only 3/4" thick and if you don't make the adjustment, the panel will be 1/4" from the cockpit in spots and that doesn't give a good purchase for the nail into the rib.
> 
> After achieving a good fit along the cockpit edge, I drove screws in the deck rib and the bow to hold the deck plywood in place. Next, I marked the cuts that would center the side deck tabs over the outer ribs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the affect of the curve on the side deck tab that centers over the cockpit support deck rib.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the deck panel was temporarily screwed in place, I traced the location of the deck support rib, anchor pole sleeve, and the gunnels along the perimeter. I used the location of the deck support rib to drill small holes that would ensure I drove the nails into the center of the rib. I cut the deck panel outside the line to make the panel easier to handle and ensure I could use my nail alignment tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preparing to bore the hole for the anchor pole sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hole alignment was good. It required slight filing on one side since it is on a curve and is no longer a perfect circle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the dry fit panel. The screws are holding the panel in place at the cockpit edge and at the bow. NOTE: See if the first panel fits well on the other end. If so, trace it and save yourself a bunch of time on the other panel.
> 
> *Fiberglassing Under the Deck Panels*
> 
> I used 2.3 ounce fiberglass cloth to seal the underside of the deck panels. I applied the epoxy and waited about 8 hours for it to achieve a green cure. I applied a second coat of resin shortly before applying the panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the deck panels and the cockpit floor with the lightweight fiberglass cloth applied.
> 
> *Applying the Deck Panels*
> 
> The curves on the bow and stern deck panels were less severe than the hull panels. This made it easier to fasten these panels. NOTE: I continue to use thickened epoxy before fastening anything to the boat. I applied this mixture to the top of the frame parts before applying the plywood panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Driving the silicon bronze ring shank nails into the centers of the gunnels was much easier using this alignment tool. I only blew through slightly with one nail this time and that was just bad nailing as the nail ran crooked on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied the bow and stern deck panels first. I then fitted and made the final cuts for the side deck panels. NOTE: Wait to apply the second coat of epoxy on the side deck panels until after you've made these cuts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View with all plywood panels applied, the main ribs cut to final depth, and the floor laid in place. NOTE: Don't cut the main ribs to final depth for the floor until after you've applied the deck panels. The ribs will crack from the stress of the hull plywood trying to straighten itself out. The deck panels counter this stress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one low-profile, duck-ambush vessel!
> 
> *Flush Trimming the Deck Panels*
> 
> I decided that flush trimming the deck panels to within only 1/4" of the gunnel like I did with the hull panels left me with way too much hand work. This time I removed the final 1/4" by extending the bit to full depth and holding the router level with the ground. This gave the bearing a good surface to follow and removed all of the excess plywood. However, the danger is that if the router is leaned too far toward the center of the boat, you will begin to remove the gunnel. Take your time…the risk is worth it.
> 
> *Rounding the Deck Panel Edge*
> 
> The deck panel edge needs to be rounded to about a 1/4" radius so that the fiberglass for both the deck and the hull can wrap around it to the other side. Fiberglass won't lay over a sharp angle. I used my rasp to round over the deck edge in the same way I rounded the edges of the hull panels.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss fiberglassing the hull.


John,

Thanks! I think I used less epoxy with that light cloth than if I had brushed it on or spread it with a scraper straight. None of those areas are exposed to any traffic, so I thought it was a good choice. I glassed the hull today and will put each coat of resin on before it requires sanding. This is where the utility duck boat is a treat…less sanding.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fiberglassing the Hull*

*Overview*

Fiberglassing the hull involves prep work, fitting the fiberglass cloth, applying several coats of epoxy, and sanding.

*Prep Work*

Whatever condition the hull is when you fiberglass it, is the condition it will stay, since you don't want to sand through the fiberglass. All the corners of the boat must be rounded to a minimum of 1/4" radius because fiberglass won't lay well across a corner that it is tighter. Outside corners can be routered or filed. Inside corners must be filleted with a mix of thickened epoxy similar to the method I used to seal the hull interior seams.










Gaps and dips must be filled with a mix of thickened epoxy.










Nail heads that stick up or are set too deep can be adjusted with thickened epoxy.

This boat will receive flat green paint, so I only sanded the hull to 80 grit.

*Fitting the Fiberglass Cloth*

It helps to have a second person unfold the fiberglass.










I cut the cloth for the hull so that 2" folded over onto the deck. This double protects the gunnel.










I mixed 12 ounces of epoxy for the first two batches and poured it directly to the flat portion of the hull and spread it with a flexible scraper.










Spreading the epoxy with a scraper. NOTE: Marine Douglas Fir plywood is very thirsty for epoxy on the first coat. Another technique is to prime it with a thin coat of resin ahead of time. I guess you could let it dry a bit and then lay on the cloth. That seems like too much of a bother, so I was generous with the first coat and squeegeed it in thoroughly.



















Stretching out wrinkles and rolling onto the deck.










Mary cutting some darts to get the fiberglass to fold at the stern. Removing little wedge-shaped sections of fiberglass at the ends helps it to lay down better. Those areas can be sanded later.










Mary's work.










First coat applied. I applied three coats and was careful to squeegee each coat to avoid excessive build-up and wasting expensive epoxy. Remember, the objective is to just fill the weave of the cloth. NOTE: I was careful to apply subsequent coats before 24 hours. If I had waited longer, I would have had to sand between coats.

*Sanding*

No matter how careful you apply the epoxy, there will be imperfections that require sanding.










Deck before sanding.










Same area of deck after sanding.










Hull before sanding.










Same area of hull after sanding. NOTE: You need to be very careful around the nail heads to not sand through the fiberglass.










One last bit to sand. NOTE: Epoxy and fiberglass dust are not items you want to breathe in or get all over your bare skin. I always wear long sleeves and use a dust mask. The danger is that, with overexposure, you could become "sensitized" to them and it would become very difficult to use epoxy or fiberglass in future projects.










Hull completely sanded to 80 grit. I may sand it smoother since I may use bright paint on the bottom of the hull.










I puttied a couple of screw heads that I missed on the cockpit corners. Once those spots are cured and sanded, the deck will be ready for fiberglass.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss fiberglassing the deck.


----------



## Edwin

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Hull*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the hull involves prep work, fitting the fiberglass cloth, applying several coats of epoxy, and sanding.
> 
> *Prep Work*
> 
> Whatever condition the hull is when you fiberglass it, is the condition it will stay, since you don't want to sand through the fiberglass. All the corners of the boat must be rounded to a minimum of 1/4" radius because fiberglass won't lay well across a corner that it is tighter. Outside corners can be routered or filed. Inside corners must be filleted with a mix of thickened epoxy similar to the method I used to seal the hull interior seams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gaps and dips must be filled with a mix of thickened epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail heads that stick up or are set too deep can be adjusted with thickened epoxy.
> 
> This boat will receive flat green paint, so I only sanded the hull to 80 grit.
> 
> *Fitting the Fiberglass Cloth*
> 
> It helps to have a second person unfold the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the cloth for the hull so that 2" folded over onto the deck. This double protects the gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed 12 ounces of epoxy for the first two batches and poured it directly to the flat portion of the hull and spread it with a flexible scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spreading the epoxy with a scraper. NOTE: Marine Douglas Fir plywood is very thirsty for epoxy on the first coat. Another technique is to prime it with a thin coat of resin ahead of time. I guess you could let it dry a bit and then lay on the cloth. That seems like too much of a bother, so I was generous with the first coat and squeegeed it in thoroughly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stretching out wrinkles and rolling onto the deck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary cutting some darts to get the fiberglass to fold at the stern. Removing little wedge-shaped sections of fiberglass at the ends helps it to lay down better. Those areas can be sanded later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First coat applied. I applied three coats and was careful to squeegee each coat to avoid excessive build-up and wasting expensive epoxy. Remember, the objective is to just fill the weave of the cloth. NOTE: I was careful to apply subsequent coats before 24 hours. If I had waited longer, I would have had to sand between coats.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> No matter how careful you apply the epoxy, there will be imperfections that require sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deck before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of deck after sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of hull after sanding. NOTE: You need to be very careful around the nail heads to not sand through the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last bit to sand. NOTE: Epoxy and fiberglass dust are not items you want to breathe in or get all over your bare skin. I always wear long sleeves and use a dust mask. The danger is that, with overexposure, you could become "sensitized" to them and it would become very difficult to use epoxy or fiberglass in future projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull completely sanded to 80 grit. I may sand it smoother since I may use bright paint on the bottom of the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I puttied a couple of screw heads that I missed on the cockpit corners. Once those spots are cured and sanded, the deck will be ready for fiberglass.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss fiberglassing the deck.


Coming along nicely Mark. Ed


----------



## SPalm

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Hull*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the hull involves prep work, fitting the fiberglass cloth, applying several coats of epoxy, and sanding.
> 
> *Prep Work*
> 
> Whatever condition the hull is when you fiberglass it, is the condition it will stay, since you don't want to sand through the fiberglass. All the corners of the boat must be rounded to a minimum of 1/4" radius because fiberglass won't lay well across a corner that it is tighter. Outside corners can be routered or filed. Inside corners must be filleted with a mix of thickened epoxy similar to the method I used to seal the hull interior seams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gaps and dips must be filled with a mix of thickened epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail heads that stick up or are set too deep can be adjusted with thickened epoxy.
> 
> This boat will receive flat green paint, so I only sanded the hull to 80 grit.
> 
> *Fitting the Fiberglass Cloth*
> 
> It helps to have a second person unfold the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the cloth for the hull so that 2" folded over onto the deck. This double protects the gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed 12 ounces of epoxy for the first two batches and poured it directly to the flat portion of the hull and spread it with a flexible scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spreading the epoxy with a scraper. NOTE: Marine Douglas Fir plywood is very thirsty for epoxy on the first coat. Another technique is to prime it with a thin coat of resin ahead of time. I guess you could let it dry a bit and then lay on the cloth. That seems like too much of a bother, so I was generous with the first coat and squeegeed it in thoroughly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stretching out wrinkles and rolling onto the deck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary cutting some darts to get the fiberglass to fold at the stern. Removing little wedge-shaped sections of fiberglass at the ends helps it to lay down better. Those areas can be sanded later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First coat applied. I applied three coats and was careful to squeegee each coat to avoid excessive build-up and wasting expensive epoxy. Remember, the objective is to just fill the weave of the cloth. NOTE: I was careful to apply subsequent coats before 24 hours. If I had waited longer, I would have had to sand between coats.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> No matter how careful you apply the epoxy, there will be imperfections that require sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deck before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of deck after sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of hull after sanding. NOTE: You need to be very careful around the nail heads to not sand through the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last bit to sand. NOTE: Epoxy and fiberglass dust are not items you want to breathe in or get all over your bare skin. I always wear long sleeves and use a dust mask. The danger is that, with overexposure, you could become "sensitized" to them and it would become very difficult to use epoxy or fiberglass in future projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull completely sanded to 80 grit. I may sand it smoother since I may use bright paint on the bottom of the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I puttied a couple of screw heads that I missed on the cockpit corners. Once those spots are cured and sanded, the deck will be ready for fiberglass.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss fiberglassing the deck.


Sweet. Now it really is looking like a boat.

Steve


----------



## English

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Hull*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the hull involves prep work, fitting the fiberglass cloth, applying several coats of epoxy, and sanding.
> 
> *Prep Work*
> 
> Whatever condition the hull is when you fiberglass it, is the condition it will stay, since you don't want to sand through the fiberglass. All the corners of the boat must be rounded to a minimum of 1/4" radius because fiberglass won't lay well across a corner that it is tighter. Outside corners can be routered or filed. Inside corners must be filleted with a mix of thickened epoxy similar to the method I used to seal the hull interior seams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gaps and dips must be filled with a mix of thickened epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail heads that stick up or are set too deep can be adjusted with thickened epoxy.
> 
> This boat will receive flat green paint, so I only sanded the hull to 80 grit.
> 
> *Fitting the Fiberglass Cloth*
> 
> It helps to have a second person unfold the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the cloth for the hull so that 2" folded over onto the deck. This double protects the gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed 12 ounces of epoxy for the first two batches and poured it directly to the flat portion of the hull and spread it with a flexible scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spreading the epoxy with a scraper. NOTE: Marine Douglas Fir plywood is very thirsty for epoxy on the first coat. Another technique is to prime it with a thin coat of resin ahead of time. I guess you could let it dry a bit and then lay on the cloth. That seems like too much of a bother, so I was generous with the first coat and squeegeed it in thoroughly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stretching out wrinkles and rolling onto the deck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary cutting some darts to get the fiberglass to fold at the stern. Removing little wedge-shaped sections of fiberglass at the ends helps it to lay down better. Those areas can be sanded later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First coat applied. I applied three coats and was careful to squeegee each coat to avoid excessive build-up and wasting expensive epoxy. Remember, the objective is to just fill the weave of the cloth. NOTE: I was careful to apply subsequent coats before 24 hours. If I had waited longer, I would have had to sand between coats.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> No matter how careful you apply the epoxy, there will be imperfections that require sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deck before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of deck after sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of hull after sanding. NOTE: You need to be very careful around the nail heads to not sand through the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last bit to sand. NOTE: Epoxy and fiberglass dust are not items you want to breathe in or get all over your bare skin. I always wear long sleeves and use a dust mask. The danger is that, with overexposure, you could become "sensitized" to them and it would become very difficult to use epoxy or fiberglass in future projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull completely sanded to 80 grit. I may sand it smoother since I may use bright paint on the bottom of the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I puttied a couple of screw heads that I missed on the cockpit corners. Once those spots are cured and sanded, the deck will be ready for fiberglass.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss fiberglassing the deck.


Mark,

Wetting out glass is a messy job, Looks good!!.

When I did my boat I was told that the epoxy had to go on wet on wet on wet. I had to put two layers of fiberglass on my boat. Over thirty yards per layer. I called and talked to the tech support guy at the epoxy company I was using ( Aeromarine). He said that for a structural joint wet on wet on wet is the only way to go to get the strenth of a chemical bond, but for laminating a fiberglass on a boat it was not necessary. He said that the epoxy wills stick to it's self with a mechanical bond ten times the strength needed for laminating fiberglass no sanding between coats needed. So he told me to take may time. One coat today, one tomorrow, one next week.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Hull*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the hull involves prep work, fitting the fiberglass cloth, applying several coats of epoxy, and sanding.
> 
> *Prep Work*
> 
> Whatever condition the hull is when you fiberglass it, is the condition it will stay, since you don't want to sand through the fiberglass. All the corners of the boat must be rounded to a minimum of 1/4" radius because fiberglass won't lay well across a corner that it is tighter. Outside corners can be routered or filed. Inside corners must be filleted with a mix of thickened epoxy similar to the method I used to seal the hull interior seams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gaps and dips must be filled with a mix of thickened epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail heads that stick up or are set too deep can be adjusted with thickened epoxy.
> 
> This boat will receive flat green paint, so I only sanded the hull to 80 grit.
> 
> *Fitting the Fiberglass Cloth*
> 
> It helps to have a second person unfold the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the cloth for the hull so that 2" folded over onto the deck. This double protects the gunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed 12 ounces of epoxy for the first two batches and poured it directly to the flat portion of the hull and spread it with a flexible scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spreading the epoxy with a scraper. NOTE: Marine Douglas Fir plywood is very thirsty for epoxy on the first coat. Another technique is to prime it with a thin coat of resin ahead of time. I guess you could let it dry a bit and then lay on the cloth. That seems like too much of a bother, so I was generous with the first coat and squeegeed it in thoroughly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Stretching out wrinkles and rolling onto the deck.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary cutting some darts to get the fiberglass to fold at the stern. Removing little wedge-shaped sections of fiberglass at the ends helps it to lay down better. Those areas can be sanded later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First coat applied. I applied three coats and was careful to squeegee each coat to avoid excessive build-up and wasting expensive epoxy. Remember, the objective is to just fill the weave of the cloth. NOTE: I was careful to apply subsequent coats before 24 hours. If I had waited longer, I would have had to sand between coats.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> No matter how careful you apply the epoxy, there will be imperfections that require sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deck before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of deck after sanding.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull before sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same area of hull after sanding. NOTE: You need to be very careful around the nail heads to not sand through the fiberglass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last bit to sand. NOTE: Epoxy and fiberglass dust are not items you want to breathe in or get all over your bare skin. I always wear long sleeves and use a dust mask. The danger is that, with overexposure, you could become "sensitized" to them and it would become very difficult to use epoxy or fiberglass in future projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hull completely sanded to 80 grit. I may sand it smoother since I may use bright paint on the bottom of the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I puttied a couple of screw heads that I missed on the cockpit corners. Once those spots are cured and sanded, the deck will be ready for fiberglass.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss fiberglassing the deck.


Thanks! The blog is caught up, so I'll be fiberglassing the deck tonight. She'll be ready for paint by next week.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fiberglassing the Deck*

*Overview*

Fiberglassing the deck is more complicated than the hull since the cockpit meets the deck at such a sharp angle. I completed the prep work for the deck at the same time I worked on the hull. The remaining steps to fiberglass the deck include fitting the cloth, applying epoxy, sanding, and fixing mistakes.

*Fitting the Cloth*

I chose to fiberglass the deck using only four pieces of cloth. I'm not sure I will use this technique on the next two boats. It was a challenge to not get voids at the seam where the cockpit and deck meet.










Here the cloth is laid over one of the cockpit sides. This is before trimming for the corner. The piece for the bow is folded out of the way.

*Applying Epoxy*

Most of the epoxy is applied with a roller and leveled out with a scraper. I used only two coats of epoxy for the deck. I achieved decent filling of the weave in two coats and didn't sand into the weave too much when preparing for paint.










View showing the inside face of the cockpit. The closest cockpit side has already been coated with epoxy.










View of inside cockpit face. The excess cloth is trimmed with a razor blade while the epoxy is still in the green cure stage.










Corner of deck and cockpit after all fiberglass applied. I overlapped the bow and stern piece with the cockpit piece while the epoxy was still wet. The overlapping edge is easily feathered out with a random orbit sander once the epoxy is cured.










View of deck fiberglass wrapped at bow wrapped around to the hull side. These overlapped areas were later feathered successfully with a sander.










Trimming the anchor pole sleeve hole.










6 ounce fiberglass isn't very thick.

*Sanding*

Sanding the deck is similar to sanding the hull. The cockpit seam makes sanding a little more complicated.










I wrapped the deck fiberglass around to the hull. Here is what that overlap looks like on the bottom of the hull after fiberglassing.










View of same area after sanding. The edge must be feathered with caution to avoid cutting through your previous layer of hull fiberglass.

*Fixing Mistakes*

I wasn't completely successful wrapping the cloth around the cockpit edge onto the deck. There were a few voids along the edge.










Voids along the cockpit edge. Perhaps the fillet wasn't thick enough here and the radius was too tight for the fiberglass to lay down.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










I trimmed the voids with a razor to expose the area.










Voids were filled with thickened epoxy. After paint, it won't even be noticed.

*Thoughts*

The boat currently weighs 115 pounds without the floor installed. Fiberglassing both faces of the plywood, sealing the interior seams, and installing two anchor pole sleeves is going to put me over the planned 120 pounds. I'm more interested in durability since I'm building a cart to roll the boat around and should not have to lift it very often.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss installing the protective skids to the hull.


----------



## shipwright

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Deck*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the deck is more complicated than the hull since the cockpit meets the deck at such a sharp angle. I completed the prep work for the deck at the same time I worked on the hull. The remaining steps to fiberglass the deck include fitting the cloth, applying epoxy, sanding, and fixing mistakes.
> 
> *Fitting the Cloth*
> 
> I chose to fiberglass the deck using only four pieces of cloth. I'm not sure I will use this technique on the next two boats. It was a challenge to not get voids at the seam where the cockpit and deck meet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the cloth is laid over one of the cockpit sides. This is before trimming for the corner. The piece for the bow is folded out of the way.
> 
> *Applying Epoxy*
> 
> Most of the epoxy is applied with a roller and leveled out with a scraper. I used only two coats of epoxy for the deck. I achieved decent filling of the weave in two coats and didn't sand into the weave too much when preparing for paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View showing the inside face of the cockpit. The closest cockpit side has already been coated with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of inside cockpit face. The excess cloth is trimmed with a razor blade while the epoxy is still in the green cure stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corner of deck and cockpit after all fiberglass applied. I overlapped the bow and stern piece with the cockpit piece while the epoxy was still wet. The overlapping edge is easily feathered out with a random orbit sander once the epoxy is cured.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of deck fiberglass wrapped at bow wrapped around to the hull side. These overlapped areas were later feathered successfully with a sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trimming the anchor pole sleeve hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 ounce fiberglass isn't very thick.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> Sanding the deck is similar to sanding the hull. The cockpit seam makes sanding a little more complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wrapped the deck fiberglass around to the hull. Here is what that overlap looks like on the bottom of the hull after fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of same area after sanding. The edge must be feathered with caution to avoid cutting through your previous layer of hull fiberglass.
> 
> *Fixing Mistakes*
> 
> I wasn't completely successful wrapping the cloth around the cockpit edge onto the deck. There were a few voids along the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voids along the cockpit edge. Perhaps the fillet wasn't thick enough here and the radius was too tight for the fiberglass to lay down.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed the voids with a razor to expose the area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voids were filled with thickened epoxy. After paint, it won't even be noticed.
> 
> *Thoughts*
> 
> The boat currently weighs 115 pounds without the floor installed. Fiberglassing both faces of the plywood, sealing the interior seams, and installing two anchor pole sleeves is going to put me over the planned 120 pounds. I'm more interested in durability since I'm building a cart to roll the boat around and should not have to lift it very often.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss installing the protective skids to the hull.


Nicely done.


----------



## English

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Deck*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the deck is more complicated than the hull since the cockpit meets the deck at such a sharp angle. I completed the prep work for the deck at the same time I worked on the hull. The remaining steps to fiberglass the deck include fitting the cloth, applying epoxy, sanding, and fixing mistakes.
> 
> *Fitting the Cloth*
> 
> I chose to fiberglass the deck using only four pieces of cloth. I'm not sure I will use this technique on the next two boats. It was a challenge to not get voids at the seam where the cockpit and deck meet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the cloth is laid over one of the cockpit sides. This is before trimming for the corner. The piece for the bow is folded out of the way.
> 
> *Applying Epoxy*
> 
> Most of the epoxy is applied with a roller and leveled out with a scraper. I used only two coats of epoxy for the deck. I achieved decent filling of the weave in two coats and didn't sand into the weave too much when preparing for paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View showing the inside face of the cockpit. The closest cockpit side has already been coated with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of inside cockpit face. The excess cloth is trimmed with a razor blade while the epoxy is still in the green cure stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corner of deck and cockpit after all fiberglass applied. I overlapped the bow and stern piece with the cockpit piece while the epoxy was still wet. The overlapping edge is easily feathered out with a random orbit sander once the epoxy is cured.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of deck fiberglass wrapped at bow wrapped around to the hull side. These overlapped areas were later feathered successfully with a sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trimming the anchor pole sleeve hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 ounce fiberglass isn't very thick.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> Sanding the deck is similar to sanding the hull. The cockpit seam makes sanding a little more complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wrapped the deck fiberglass around to the hull. Here is what that overlap looks like on the bottom of the hull after fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of same area after sanding. The edge must be feathered with caution to avoid cutting through your previous layer of hull fiberglass.
> 
> *Fixing Mistakes*
> 
> I wasn't completely successful wrapping the cloth around the cockpit edge onto the deck. There were a few voids along the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voids along the cockpit edge. Perhaps the fillet wasn't thick enough here and the radius was too tight for the fiberglass to lay down.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed the voids with a razor to expose the area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voids were filled with thickened epoxy. After paint, it won't even be noticed.
> 
> *Thoughts*
> 
> The boat currently weighs 115 pounds without the floor installed. Fiberglassing both faces of the plywood, sealing the interior seams, and installing two anchor pole sleeves is going to put me over the planned 120 pounds. I'm more interested in durability since I'm building a cart to roll the boat around and should not have to lift it very often.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss installing the protective skids to the hull.


Mark,

Real nice job!!. That boat should be water proof.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Deck*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Fiberglassing the deck is more complicated than the hull since the cockpit meets the deck at such a sharp angle. I completed the prep work for the deck at the same time I worked on the hull. The remaining steps to fiberglass the deck include fitting the cloth, applying epoxy, sanding, and fixing mistakes.
> 
> *Fitting the Cloth*
> 
> I chose to fiberglass the deck using only four pieces of cloth. I'm not sure I will use this technique on the next two boats. It was a challenge to not get voids at the seam where the cockpit and deck meet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the cloth is laid over one of the cockpit sides. This is before trimming for the corner. The piece for the bow is folded out of the way.
> 
> *Applying Epoxy*
> 
> Most of the epoxy is applied with a roller and leveled out with a scraper. I used only two coats of epoxy for the deck. I achieved decent filling of the weave in two coats and didn't sand into the weave too much when preparing for paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View showing the inside face of the cockpit. The closest cockpit side has already been coated with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of inside cockpit face. The excess cloth is trimmed with a razor blade while the epoxy is still in the green cure stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corner of deck and cockpit after all fiberglass applied. I overlapped the bow and stern piece with the cockpit piece while the epoxy was still wet. The overlapping edge is easily feathered out with a random orbit sander once the epoxy is cured.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of deck fiberglass wrapped at bow wrapped around to the hull side. These overlapped areas were later feathered successfully with a sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trimming the anchor pole sleeve hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 ounce fiberglass isn't very thick.
> 
> *Sanding*
> 
> Sanding the deck is similar to sanding the hull. The cockpit seam makes sanding a little more complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wrapped the deck fiberglass around to the hull. Here is what that overlap looks like on the bottom of the hull after fiberglassing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of same area after sanding. The edge must be feathered with caution to avoid cutting through your previous layer of hull fiberglass.
> 
> *Fixing Mistakes*
> 
> I wasn't completely successful wrapping the cloth around the cockpit edge onto the deck. There were a few voids along the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voids along the cockpit edge. Perhaps the fillet wasn't thick enough here and the radius was too tight for the fiberglass to lay down.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed the voids with a razor to expose the area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voids were filled with thickened epoxy. After paint, it won't even be noticed.
> 
> *Thoughts*
> 
> The boat currently weighs 115 pounds without the floor installed. Fiberglassing both faces of the plywood, sealing the interior seams, and installing two anchor pole sleeves is going to put me over the planned 120 pounds. I'm more interested in durability since I'm building a cart to roll the boat around and should not have to lift it very often.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss installing the protective skids to the hull.


Thanks! I'm hoping this boat lasts the rest of my duck hunting years. That's why I'm being so diligent at sealing it well.


----------



## DustyMark

*Attaching the Runners*

*Overview*

The plan calls for solid wood runners with a layer of metal applied so that the boat tracks better and also is protected for the inevitable dragging that will occur. I used white oak and 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum.

*Making the Runner*

My runners are 59 1/2" long, 1" wide, and 1 1/4" tall. White oak is incredibly tough and rot resistant. There is a 6" long taper cut at each end so they don't get hung up. The plan calls for 1/4" galvanized bolts. However, the galvanized coating on threads that small don't leave much purchase between the nut and bolt threads and they stripped under minimal torque. I switched over to regular grade bolts…too cheap to buy stainless.










Determining spacing of holes in relation to ribs. Note the white oak washers.










Drilling the 3/4" counterbore to receive the flat washer.










Drilling the 1/4" hole to receive the bolt.

*Installing the Runner*

Drill one end hole for each runner and bolt the runner at that end. That hole registers the runner. Align the runners and use the runner holes as a guide to drill through the hull. Insert each bolt before drilling the next hole. This is a lot easier than having to mark each hole location perfectly.










Marking the first hole at end.










Drilling through the hull.










Aligning runners parallel to hull.










Drilling hole at opposite end.










Close-up of bolted runner.










Mary held the wrench inside the hull during tightening. I applied silicon sealant under the runner and in the bolt holes to prevent water intrusion. Here Mary is wiping off excess sealant. NOTE: I tried GOOP Marine sealant and it sets up too fast. Save yourself the hassle and use RTV silicon sealant that is rated for outdoor use.

*Bending the Aluminum*

Aluminum is easy to bend, but you still have to align the bends with the runner.










Mark the pivot point, clamp it in a vice, and hammer with your well-calibrated hammer arm!










The scrap wedge from cutting the runner is a perfect reference tool to measure your bend.










Copper approved of the results.

*Installing the Aluminum*

Use 3/4" #8 screws and silicon to apply the runners. Be sure to fill the runner bolt holes with silicon as well.










The runner was aligned to terminate at the inside edge of each outer rib. This allows the aluminum to be screwed securely to the outer rib. You'd hate to have that peel up when going over an obstacle.










View before filleting.










An added precaution is to use thickened epoxy at the of each runner to protect the leading edge from being caught. I also used thickened epoxy to fillet around the perimeter of the runner to slow water intrusion.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss installing the floor.


----------



## Racer2007

DustyMark said:


> *Attaching the Runners*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> The plan calls for solid wood runners with a layer of metal applied so that the boat tracks better and also is protected for the inevitable dragging that will occur. I used white oak and 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum.
> 
> *Making the Runner*
> 
> My runners are 59 1/2" long, 1" wide, and 1 1/4" tall. White oak is incredibly tough and rot resistant. There is a 6" long taper cut at each end so they don't get hung up. The plan calls for 1/4" galvanized bolts. However, the galvanized coating on threads that small don't leave much purchase between the nut and bolt threads and they stripped under minimal torque. I switched over to regular grade bolts…too cheap to buy stainless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Determining spacing of holes in relation to ribs. Note the white oak washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the 3/4" counterbore to receive the flat washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the 1/4" hole to receive the bolt.
> 
> *Installing the Runner*
> 
> Drill one end hole for each runner and bolt the runner at that end. That hole registers the runner. Align the runners and use the runner holes as a guide to drill through the hull. Insert each bolt before drilling the next hole. This is a lot easier than having to mark each hole location perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the first hole at end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aligning runners parallel to hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling hole at opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of bolted runner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary held the wrench inside the hull during tightening. I applied silicon sealant under the runner and in the bolt holes to prevent water intrusion. Here Mary is wiping off excess sealant. NOTE: I tried GOOP Marine sealant and it sets up too fast. Save yourself the hassle and use RTV silicon sealant that is rated for outdoor use.
> 
> *Bending the Aluminum*
> 
> Aluminum is easy to bend, but you still have to align the bends with the runner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark the pivot point, clamp it in a vice, and hammer with your well-calibrated hammer arm!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The scrap wedge from cutting the runner is a perfect reference tool to measure your bend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper approved of the results.
> 
> *Installing the Aluminum*
> 
> Use 3/4" #8 screws and silicon to apply the runners. Be sure to fill the runner bolt holes with silicon as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The runner was aligned to terminate at the inside edge of each outer rib. This allows the aluminum to be screwed securely to the outer rib. You'd hate to have that peel up when going over an obstacle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View before filleting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An added precaution is to use thickened epoxy at the of each runner to protect the leading edge from being caught. I also used thickened epoxy to fillet around the perimeter of the runner to slow water intrusion.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss installing the floor.


Looks like Copper is a pretty good QC Inspector. Nice looking boat so far.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Attaching the Runners*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> The plan calls for solid wood runners with a layer of metal applied so that the boat tracks better and also is protected for the inevitable dragging that will occur. I used white oak and 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum.
> 
> *Making the Runner*
> 
> My runners are 59 1/2" long, 1" wide, and 1 1/4" tall. White oak is incredibly tough and rot resistant. There is a 6" long taper cut at each end so they don't get hung up. The plan calls for 1/4" galvanized bolts. However, the galvanized coating on threads that small don't leave much purchase between the nut and bolt threads and they stripped under minimal torque. I switched over to regular grade bolts…too cheap to buy stainless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Determining spacing of holes in relation to ribs. Note the white oak washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the 3/4" counterbore to receive the flat washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the 1/4" hole to receive the bolt.
> 
> *Installing the Runner*
> 
> Drill one end hole for each runner and bolt the runner at that end. That hole registers the runner. Align the runners and use the runner holes as a guide to drill through the hull. Insert each bolt before drilling the next hole. This is a lot easier than having to mark each hole location perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the first hole at end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aligning runners parallel to hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling hole at opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of bolted runner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary held the wrench inside the hull during tightening. I applied silicon sealant under the runner and in the bolt holes to prevent water intrusion. Here Mary is wiping off excess sealant. NOTE: I tried GOOP Marine sealant and it sets up too fast. Save yourself the hassle and use RTV silicon sealant that is rated for outdoor use.
> 
> *Bending the Aluminum*
> 
> Aluminum is easy to bend, but you still have to align the bends with the runner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark the pivot point, clamp it in a vice, and hammer with your well-calibrated hammer arm!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The scrap wedge from cutting the runner is a perfect reference tool to measure your bend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper approved of the results.
> 
> *Installing the Aluminum*
> 
> Use 3/4" #8 screws and silicon to apply the runners. Be sure to fill the runner bolt holes with silicon as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The runner was aligned to terminate at the inside edge of each outer rib. This allows the aluminum to be screwed securely to the outer rib. You'd hate to have that peel up when going over an obstacle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View before filleting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An added precaution is to use thickened epoxy at the of each runner to protect the leading edge from being caught. I also used thickened epoxy to fillet around the perimeter of the runner to slow water intrusion.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss installing the floor.


Thanks. I've had to mostly banish Copper from the shop. He 's still quite the puppy at 18 months and eats way too many things off the floor. He even stole and chewed up a thin piece of UHMW material off of a low shelf that I was planning to use for a spacer on the anchor pole sleeve!


----------



## Racer2007

DustyMark said:


> *Attaching the Runners*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> The plan calls for solid wood runners with a layer of metal applied so that the boat tracks better and also is protected for the inevitable dragging that will occur. I used white oak and 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum.
> 
> *Making the Runner*
> 
> My runners are 59 1/2" long, 1" wide, and 1 1/4" tall. White oak is incredibly tough and rot resistant. There is a 6" long taper cut at each end so they don't get hung up. The plan calls for 1/4" galvanized bolts. However, the galvanized coating on threads that small don't leave much purchase between the nut and bolt threads and they stripped under minimal torque. I switched over to regular grade bolts…too cheap to buy stainless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Determining spacing of holes in relation to ribs. Note the white oak washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the 3/4" counterbore to receive the flat washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the 1/4" hole to receive the bolt.
> 
> *Installing the Runner*
> 
> Drill one end hole for each runner and bolt the runner at that end. That hole registers the runner. Align the runners and use the runner holes as a guide to drill through the hull. Insert each bolt before drilling the next hole. This is a lot easier than having to mark each hole location perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the first hole at end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling through the hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aligning runners parallel to hull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling hole at opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of bolted runner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mary held the wrench inside the hull during tightening. I applied silicon sealant under the runner and in the bolt holes to prevent water intrusion. Here Mary is wiping off excess sealant. NOTE: I tried GOOP Marine sealant and it sets up too fast. Save yourself the hassle and use RTV silicon sealant that is rated for outdoor use.
> 
> *Bending the Aluminum*
> 
> Aluminum is easy to bend, but you still have to align the bends with the runner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark the pivot point, clamp it in a vice, and hammer with your well-calibrated hammer arm!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The scrap wedge from cutting the runner is a perfect reference tool to measure your bend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper approved of the results.
> 
> *Installing the Aluminum*
> 
> Use 3/4" #8 screws and silicon to apply the runners. Be sure to fill the runner bolt holes with silicon as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The runner was aligned to terminate at the inside edge of each outer rib. This allows the aluminum to be screwed securely to the outer rib. You'd hate to have that peel up when going over an obstacle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View before filleting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An added precaution is to use thickened epoxy at the of each runner to protect the leading edge from being caught. I also used thickened epoxy to fillet around the perimeter of the runner to slow water intrusion.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss installing the floor.





> Thanks. I ve had to mostly banish Copper from the shop. He s still quite the puppy at 18 months and eats way too many things off the floor. He even stole and chewed up a thin piece of UHMW material off of a low shelf that I was planning to use for a spacer on the anchor pole sleeve!
> 
> - DustyMark


Make him wear a Respirator .


----------



## DustyMark

*Installing the Floor*

*Overview*

Floor installation is pretty simple. Considerations include waterproofing, support, and water drainage.

*Waterproofing*

I previously fiberglassed the bottom side of the floor with 2.3 ounce fiberglass cloth and two light coats of epoxy. I used 6 ounce cloth for the side you step on with two coats of epoxy also. The top side of the floor will also be painted with flat green paint.

*Support*

The span between each rib is about two feet and 1/4" plywood would break when stood on without support. 1 1/2" pink styrofoam fits on top of the keel and supports the floor just right.










Notice I didn't trim the bolts for the runners to length. They work well to hold each panel of foam panel in place under the floor. The white oak washers also provide support to the foam.










Three foam panels in place.










I fastened the floor in place with a 1/4" bolt at each corner. I intend to take the floor off regularly to let the hull dry and decided that threaded inserts would reduce wear on the ribs.










The floor doesn't extend the full length of the cockpit. This is a view of the stern where Copper will lay behind my head. I had a scrap of mini cell foam that filled this space nicely to extend the floor for the dog.










Copper's pad is 16" by 28" and is positioned over the floor extension.

*Water Drainage*

I expect a lot of water to get into the boat during the many retrieves Copper will be making! I drilled limber holes in each rib on both sides of the keel before assembling the boat frame. These are 1" diameter holes that are cut only in a semi-circle. They allow water to move along the length of the boat. An initial concern was that the foam would hinder the flow of water to the bilge pump. However, I soon realized that the keel and the white oak runner washers held the foam off the floor and allowed the water to flow freely from bow to stern.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss seating and oar lock positioning.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fitting Out the Boat*

*Overview*

The basic boat is complete and only needs to be painted. However, there are a lot of little things to be made to fit the boat out to my purposes. The two functions of the boat are transportation and layout platform. Each function requires careful consideration during the fitting out process. The plan doesn't give many details on these steps, so a builder must do their own research and design. My goal in this blog entry is to show some of the thought process and trial and error that goes into this stage of the build.

*Transportation*

There are several options to propel this boat including kayak paddle, SUP (Stand-Up Paddleboard) paddle, push pole, and oars. The wide beam, high cockpit sides, and my load situation eliminated the kayak paddle as a comfortable option. The wide beam and my lack of experience ruled out the SUP paddle. Some of the lakes we travel are too deep to use a push pole the whole route and that moved the push pole to a secondary means of moving through heavy vegetation and shallow areas. I chose oars as the primary means of propelling the boat.

Fore and aft trim is a consideration on a boat with such a low profile. The goal is to have the boat sitting a little stern heavy so it submarines less into the waves. My primary load consists of two decoy bags, a gun, Copper, and me. Each decoy bag weighs 27 pounds and Copper weighs 55 pounds. They balance each other out well. With the two decoy bags placed in the front of the cockpit and Copper at the rear, I'm placed slightly aft of center and this gives the boat the slight stern heavy trim I desire.

My first thought was to build a simple seat across the cockpit frame and elevate the oar locks as needed. This seemed like a good idea and I ran with it.










This oarlock frame raised the oar locks about two inches above the cockpit frame. I obviously would have beefed it up more, but this level was adequate for fitting.










This seat is made of 3/8" baltic birch plywood and reinforced with 1 1/4" tall white oak stringers. It slides easily along the cockpit.










I was unhappy with how it stuck up above the rest of the boat. I could have brushed it out to camouflage it from the ducks. I hadn't built my oars yet, so I borrowed a "junker" set from my brother to determine fit and placement. I quickly discovered that I would have to go even higher for the oars to clear my knees. I wasn't about to ruin the low profile advantages of a layout boat by going even higher with the oarlocks, so it was back to the drawing board. I had just spent half a day exploring this option.










This set of oarlocks is much simpler and blends in with the low profile of the boat better.










When sitting on the floor, the cockpit sides elevate the oarlocks enough to clear my knees.










A Type IV flotation device provides cushion to sit on and still maintains oar clearance from my knees. I'll wait to glue and round the oar lock supports until after my initial launch of the boat. I'll experiment with fore and aft positioning with the oarlocks clamped temporarily in place.










This position allows my feet to rest against the aft end of the cockpit frame for leverage during the stroke.










During the fitting out process, I determined that 5' oars would be a good length. My Dad gave me some extra 4/4 rough ash he wasn't going to use. Ash will make a heavy, but durable set of oars…perfect for the duck marsh. I planed these boards and cut them to 5' 6" to prepare for lamination.










I used thickened epoxy to laminate the oar blank. I'll cut out both oars from this blank and shape them according to a set of plans I purchased from Chesapeake Light Craft.

*Layout Platform*

Once at the marsh, the boat serves its second function as a layout platform. The goal is to lay in a reclined position comfortably for hours at a time…nearly invisible to approaching ducks and then sit up to shoot them. I'll build flip blind doors later, but the first step is to set up the boat to lay comfortably.










I made these brackets of 3/4" aluminum angle to support an aluminum crossbar that will support the layout board. NOTE: I'm keeping all the permanent fittings below the level of the cockpit since we will build covers for each boat out of plywood and plan to stack three boats on my utility trailer to transport them.










Bimini fittings for the flip doors will attach to the 1" aluminum crossbar.










The layout board is 3/8" Baltic birch plywood 15" wide and 28" long. I used white oak cut at the recline angle to hold the board in position on the crossbar.










The recline angle is about 18 degrees.










I discovered that this shallow recline angle faces you nearly straight up and it's a strain to scan the horizon for ducks. After a lot of trial and error, I devised this set-up. The neck and shoulder support is cut from two 1 ½" layers of pink insulation foam beveled at a 40 degree angle. (I'll eliminate the notch at the head to simplify upholstering the cover.) I then sculpted a head piece from scrap Minicell foam. I covered this with layer of closed cell foam. I'll even place an extra layer or two for some lumbar support! My plan is to cover this with 500D Coated Cordura.










I'm picky on fit, so I do my fitting with waders and my life jacket on.










It's really more comfortable than the picture portrays…










Shooting from a seated position is awkward at first.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss painting the boat.


----------



## DustyMark

*Painting the Boat*

*Overview*

Construction is complete and I moved the boat to the garage in preparation for painting. Oil-based paints put off some nasty fumes, so the garage was the safest location. I painted the bottom with some extra paint I had left from some annual kayak repairs/maintenance. I painted the top with primer and flat duck boat paint.

*Bottom Paint*

The ducks don't see the bottom, so I used Interlux Brightsides paint (Sea Green) to provide a smoother coat against the water. I have two wood kayaks painted with this, so I can touch up all three boats with the same paint. I've used this paint for years and it produces good results for an amateur like me.










I taped an edge below the water line to minimize the chances of flashing the ducks with this glossy paint.










I also taped the runners since the paint will get scraped off these anyways.










I must have had some silicone contamination when I attached the runners. I'll sand that area, wash with a strong solvent, and recoat when I do the first maintenance coat.

*Primer*

I'm trying out Parker Coatings duck paint for the first time. Their prices were reasonable and they shipped it quickly. The first coat is their primer. This goes on rather thick compared to the actual paint.










I cut these foam rollers in half and they laid down both the primer and the paint well.










Primer applied.










All the nooks and crannies are primed.










I scuffed the handles and primed them also. If this doesn't hold up, I'll try camouflage duct tape.

*Top Paint*

I'm using Parker Coatings Hunter Green paint as the final top coat. This is a flat paint when dried.










I applied the primer to the interior while standing outside the boat. I was unable to reach into the furthest corners of the floor reliably. So, I laid on the boat floor to apply the paint to the interior and it worked much better.










Amazing how the green paint makes this look like a duck hunting boat!










The boat is still shiny in these photos since the paint is still wet.










I added Interlux Intergrip non-skid deck compound to the entire walking surface of the deck. This photo shows the textured effect of the Intergrip. I mixed this into the paint, allowed to soak 20 minutes, and applied with a roller *after* the rest of the boat had been painted. I'm hoping this will provide more grip for those occasions I've got a foot out on the deck like helping Copper back in the boat after a retrieve or landing a lunker northern pike with my fly rod!

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss building wood oars from Chesapeake Light Craft plans.


----------



## stefang

DustyMark said:


> *Painting the Boat*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Construction is complete and I moved the boat to the garage in preparation for painting. Oil-based paints put off some nasty fumes, so the garage was the safest location. I painted the bottom with some extra paint I had left from some annual kayak repairs/maintenance. I painted the top with primer and flat duck boat paint.
> 
> *Bottom Paint*
> 
> The ducks don't see the bottom, so I used Interlux Brightsides paint (Sea Green) to provide a smoother coat against the water. I have two wood kayaks painted with this, so I can touch up all three boats with the same paint. I've used this paint for years and it produces good results for an amateur like me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped an edge below the water line to minimize the chances of flashing the ducks with this glossy paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also taped the runners since the paint will get scraped off these anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must have had some silicone contamination when I attached the runners. I'll sand that area, wash with a strong solvent, and recoat when I do the first maintenance coat.
> 
> *Primer*
> 
> I'm trying out Parker Coatings duck paint for the first time. Their prices were reasonable and they shipped it quickly. The first coat is their primer. This goes on rather thick compared to the actual paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut these foam rollers in half and they laid down both the primer and the paint well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primer applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the nooks and crannies are primed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scuffed the handles and primed them also. If this doesn't hold up, I'll try camouflage duct tape.
> 
> *Top Paint*
> 
> I'm using Parker Coatings Hunter Green paint as the final top coat. This is a flat paint when dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied the primer to the interior while standing outside the boat. I was unable to reach into the furthest corners of the floor reliably. So, I laid on the boat floor to apply the paint to the interior and it worked much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing how the green paint makes this look like a duck hunting boat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The boat is still shiny in these photos since the paint is still wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added Interlux Intergrip non-skid deck compound to the entire walking surface of the deck. This photo shows the textured effect of the Intergrip. I mixed this into the paint, allowed to soak 20 minutes, and applied with a roller *after* the rest of the boat had been painted. I'm hoping this will provide more grip for those occasions I've got a foot out on the deck like helping Copper back in the boat after a retrieve or landing a lunker northern pike with my fly rod!
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss building wood oars from Chesapeake Light Craft plans.


Wow, Mark that is a fantastic paint job and your boat looks professionally built. You are a very conscientious builder and craftsman. Wonderful work.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Painting the Boat*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Construction is complete and I moved the boat to the garage in preparation for painting. Oil-based paints put off some nasty fumes, so the garage was the safest location. I painted the bottom with some extra paint I had left from some annual kayak repairs/maintenance. I painted the top with primer and flat duck boat paint.
> 
> *Bottom Paint*
> 
> The ducks don't see the bottom, so I used Interlux Brightsides paint (Sea Green) to provide a smoother coat against the water. I have two wood kayaks painted with this, so I can touch up all three boats with the same paint. I've used this paint for years and it produces good results for an amateur like me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped an edge below the water line to minimize the chances of flashing the ducks with this glossy paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also taped the runners since the paint will get scraped off these anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must have had some silicone contamination when I attached the runners. I'll sand that area, wash with a strong solvent, and recoat when I do the first maintenance coat.
> 
> *Primer*
> 
> I'm trying out Parker Coatings duck paint for the first time. Their prices were reasonable and they shipped it quickly. The first coat is their primer. This goes on rather thick compared to the actual paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut these foam rollers in half and they laid down both the primer and the paint well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primer applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the nooks and crannies are primed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scuffed the handles and primed them also. If this doesn't hold up, I'll try camouflage duct tape.
> 
> *Top Paint*
> 
> I'm using Parker Coatings Hunter Green paint as the final top coat. This is a flat paint when dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied the primer to the interior while standing outside the boat. I was unable to reach into the furthest corners of the floor reliably. So, I laid on the boat floor to apply the paint to the interior and it worked much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing how the green paint makes this look like a duck hunting boat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The boat is still shiny in these photos since the paint is still wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added Interlux Intergrip non-skid deck compound to the entire walking surface of the deck. This photo shows the textured effect of the Intergrip. I mixed this into the paint, allowed to soak 20 minutes, and applied with a roller *after* the rest of the boat had been painted. I'm hoping this will provide more grip for those occasions I've got a foot out on the deck like helping Copper back in the boat after a retrieve or landing a lunker northern pike with my fly rod!
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss building wood oars from Chesapeake Light Craft plans.


Thanks Mike! My brother and nephew started their boats in my shop last week. We've got until late September to finish their two boats to complete the fleet of three.


----------



## DustyMark

*Building a Set of Oars*

*Overview*

Even with the boat painted, there are lots of little projects to complete to make it "operational." One of those is to build a custom set of oars. I could buy a set for $46 at Gander Mountain, but that wouldn't do! I purchased very helpful oar plans from Chesapeake Light Craft. The smallest length for which the plans provided measurements was 6'. I determined that 5' oars were plenty for this low boat and decided to modify their plans to suit my situation. The plans also called for a square section below the handle. These serve as counterweights to offset the weight of the blades. That would be great, but my boat's cockpit is shallow and I didn't want those square sections brushing against my thighs and snagging on my waders on long rows. I kept the shaft round in that section.

*Wood Selection*

My Dad gave me some quite clear ash and I was able to work around the few knots to yield the required three pieces at 3/4" thick by 7 1/4" wide by 5' 6" long.










Three layers of ash ready to laminate.










Thickened epoxy applied between layers and clamped. I was too miserly on the epoxy and had some glue starved areas on the edge of the laminations. Fortunately, I was able to work around those areas. I should have used more epoxy to assure an even squeeze out.

*Shaping the Blank*

I laid out the pattern measurements onto a piece of 1/4" plywood to make a template for more accuracy.










Here the pattern is traced onto the blank to yield two oars from the same blank.










The taper is cut on the bandsaw first. The shape is then retraced onto the blank and cut out. Here is what the blank looks like after the bandsaw work is completed.










Close-up of the handles.










Close-up of the blades.










A sharp spoke shave and smoothing plane were my primary tools for shaping the oars. The method was to take it from 4 sides to 8 sides and then take it from 8 sides to 16 sides. The oars were then sanded with a scrap of belt sander belt to do the final rounding.










The blocks held the oars for shaping. The little jig marked the handle and shaft to take it to 8 sides.










Handle remains 4-sided and the shaft is now 8-sided.










Shaft is ready to take to 16 sides.










Close-up of shaped blade and handle.










Plywood pattern compared to final product.










Close-up of pattern compared to final blades.

*Finishing*

I'm undecided on whether I'll paint the oars green yet. In the meantime, I'm applying three coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine finish to seal them. This finish is easy to apply, doesn't require sanding between coats, only requires three coats, and apparently provides excellent protection.



















Here are some shots of the oars after the first coat of finish.

I'll install lace-up leather oar collars when the finish is dry.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss how the boat worked out on the water!


----------



## GreaseMonkey2275

DustyMark said:


> *Building a Set of Oars*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Even with the boat painted, there are lots of little projects to complete to make it "operational." One of those is to build a custom set of oars. I could buy a set for $46 at Gander Mountain, but that wouldn't do! I purchased very helpful oar plans from Chesapeake Light Craft. The smallest length for which the plans provided measurements was 6'. I determined that 5' oars were plenty for this low boat and decided to modify their plans to suit my situation. The plans also called for a square section below the handle. These serve as counterweights to offset the weight of the blades. That would be great, but my boat's cockpit is shallow and I didn't want those square sections brushing against my thighs and snagging on my waders on long rows. I kept the shaft round in that section.
> 
> *Wood Selection*
> 
> My Dad gave me some quite clear ash and I was able to work around the few knots to yield the required three pieces at 3/4" thick by 7 1/4" wide by 5' 6" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three layers of ash ready to laminate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickened epoxy applied between layers and clamped. I was too miserly on the epoxy and had some glue starved areas on the edge of the laminations. Fortunately, I was able to work around those areas. I should have used more epoxy to assure an even squeeze out.
> 
> *Shaping the Blank*
> 
> I laid out the pattern measurements onto a piece of 1/4" plywood to make a template for more accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the pattern is traced onto the blank to yield two oars from the same blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The taper is cut on the bandsaw first. The shape is then retraced onto the blank and cut out. Here is what the blank looks like after the bandsaw work is completed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A sharp spoke shave and smoothing plane were my primary tools for shaping the oars. The method was to take it from 4 sides to 8 sides and then take it from 8 sides to 16 sides. The oars were then sanded with a scrap of belt sander belt to do the final rounding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blocks held the oars for shaping. The little jig marked the handle and shaft to take it to 8 sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle remains 4-sided and the shaft is now 8-sided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaft is ready to take to 16 sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of shaped blade and handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood pattern compared to final product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of pattern compared to final blades.
> 
> *Finishing*
> 
> I'm undecided on whether I'll paint the oars green yet. In the meantime, I'm applying three coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine finish to seal them. This finish is easy to apply, doesn't require sanding between coats, only requires three coats, and apparently provides excellent protection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots of the oars after the first coat of finish.
> 
> I'll install lace-up leather oar collars when the finish is dry.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss how the boat worked out on the water!


As beautiful as those oars turned out it would almost be a shame to cover those grain profiles up with paint! Nice work and good luck on the water.


----------



## stefang

DustyMark said:


> *Building a Set of Oars*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Even with the boat painted, there are lots of little projects to complete to make it "operational." One of those is to build a custom set of oars. I could buy a set for $46 at Gander Mountain, but that wouldn't do! I purchased very helpful oar plans from Chesapeake Light Craft. The smallest length for which the plans provided measurements was 6'. I determined that 5' oars were plenty for this low boat and decided to modify their plans to suit my situation. The plans also called for a square section below the handle. These serve as counterweights to offset the weight of the blades. That would be great, but my boat's cockpit is shallow and I didn't want those square sections brushing against my thighs and snagging on my waders on long rows. I kept the shaft round in that section.
> 
> *Wood Selection*
> 
> My Dad gave me some quite clear ash and I was able to work around the few knots to yield the required three pieces at 3/4" thick by 7 1/4" wide by 5' 6" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three layers of ash ready to laminate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickened epoxy applied between layers and clamped. I was too miserly on the epoxy and had some glue starved areas on the edge of the laminations. Fortunately, I was able to work around those areas. I should have used more epoxy to assure an even squeeze out.
> 
> *Shaping the Blank*
> 
> I laid out the pattern measurements onto a piece of 1/4" plywood to make a template for more accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the pattern is traced onto the blank to yield two oars from the same blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The taper is cut on the bandsaw first. The shape is then retraced onto the blank and cut out. Here is what the blank looks like after the bandsaw work is completed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A sharp spoke shave and smoothing plane were my primary tools for shaping the oars. The method was to take it from 4 sides to 8 sides and then take it from 8 sides to 16 sides. The oars were then sanded with a scrap of belt sander belt to do the final rounding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blocks held the oars for shaping. The little jig marked the handle and shaft to take it to 8 sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle remains 4-sided and the shaft is now 8-sided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaft is ready to take to 16 sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of shaped blade and handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood pattern compared to final product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of pattern compared to final blades.
> 
> *Finishing*
> 
> I'm undecided on whether I'll paint the oars green yet. In the meantime, I'm applying three coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine finish to seal them. This finish is easy to apply, doesn't require sanding between coats, only requires three coats, and apparently provides excellent protection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots of the oars after the first coat of finish.
> 
> I'll install lace-up leather oar collars when the finish is dry.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss how the boat worked out on the water!


Very nice shaped and crafted oars Mark.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Building a Set of Oars*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> Even with the boat painted, there are lots of little projects to complete to make it "operational." One of those is to build a custom set of oars. I could buy a set for $46 at Gander Mountain, but that wouldn't do! I purchased very helpful oar plans from Chesapeake Light Craft. The smallest length for which the plans provided measurements was 6'. I determined that 5' oars were plenty for this low boat and decided to modify their plans to suit my situation. The plans also called for a square section below the handle. These serve as counterweights to offset the weight of the blades. That would be great, but my boat's cockpit is shallow and I didn't want those square sections brushing against my thighs and snagging on my waders on long rows. I kept the shaft round in that section.
> 
> *Wood Selection*
> 
> My Dad gave me some quite clear ash and I was able to work around the few knots to yield the required three pieces at 3/4" thick by 7 1/4" wide by 5' 6" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three layers of ash ready to laminate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thickened epoxy applied between layers and clamped. I was too miserly on the epoxy and had some glue starved areas on the edge of the laminations. Fortunately, I was able to work around those areas. I should have used more epoxy to assure an even squeeze out.
> 
> *Shaping the Blank*
> 
> I laid out the pattern measurements onto a piece of 1/4" plywood to make a template for more accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the pattern is traced onto the blank to yield two oars from the same blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The taper is cut on the bandsaw first. The shape is then retraced onto the blank and cut out. Here is what the blank looks like after the bandsaw work is completed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of the blades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A sharp spoke shave and smoothing plane were my primary tools for shaping the oars. The method was to take it from 4 sides to 8 sides and then take it from 8 sides to 16 sides. The oars were then sanded with a scrap of belt sander belt to do the final rounding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blocks held the oars for shaping. The little jig marked the handle and shaft to take it to 8 sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle remains 4-sided and the shaft is now 8-sided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaft is ready to take to 16 sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of shaped blade and handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood pattern compared to final product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close-up of pattern compared to final blades.
> 
> *Finishing*
> 
> I'm undecided on whether I'll paint the oars green yet. In the meantime, I'm applying three coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine finish to seal them. This finish is easy to apply, doesn't require sanding between coats, only requires three coats, and apparently provides excellent protection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots of the oars after the first coat of finish.
> 
> I'll install lace-up leather oar collars when the finish is dry.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss how the boat worked out on the water!


Thanks! I'll be using them all summer with just the varnish. It would be tough to paint these beauties. In the transportation mode, the ducks will see me regardless, so paddle color might not matter. I think my brother is okay with me keeping them varnished in a satin tone…


----------



## DustyMark

*Launch Day!*

*Launch*

It was enjoyable to launch the boat today! I loaded it with both of my decoy bags full (35 pounds each) and a bag with 50 pounds of weight to simulate Copper. I didn't feel like dealing with him during my first outing in the boat…










Here I am rowing out from the dock. With my typical hunting load, the boat was a little stern heavy like I hoped. This should help clear waves without being too bow high.










It rowed well.










I wrapped the oars in leather and built up the end nearest the handle with 1/2" wide leather to form the "button." This helps keep the oar from slipping through the oar lock. I made my oar shafts a smaller diameter than the plan and unfortunately there wasn't enough leather in the leather kit (a little disappointed with Chesapeake Light Craft on this one) to build the button to the required 1/2" height and the oars constantly slipped through the oar locks. I ordered more leather from Tandy Leather and the oars will be back in service by the weekend.










The boat push poled easily. In this photo I'm standing on the rear deck to try out the non-skid additive (it works well.) The bow is higher with me standing on the deck, but the boat is still very manageable.










I'm thinking this boat will move fairly easily through thick vegetation.

*Assessment*

The Kara Hummer handles as I anticipated. It sits low in the water, holds a good line while rowing, paddling or push poling, is very stable, and has just enough storage in the cockpit for the gear I typically take out to the duck marsh.










My brother and nephew tried it out today as well. He brought his lab and did some retrieves from the boat in the lake. His lab was able to jump into the water and be hauled back into the boat without a lot of rocking. They were both pleased with the Kara Hummer's performance…good thing since we've already started the next two boats!

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss building a boat cart and modifying my utility trailer for solo boat launch and recovery.


----------



## DustyMark

*Building a Cart and Modifying a Utility Trailer*

*Overview*

It's been great to put the boat to use and discover how versatile it is in MN. It makes a great two-person fishing boat for small lakes.










Here's Mary with her first catch from the boat…a 20" Northern Pike.










Here's me with our catch from another trip…a 5 pound and a 3 1/4 pound largemouth bass. We plan to modify the boat by installing adjustable pedestal columns, bass boat seats, and flush bases to mount them. This will require converting to a 3/4" plywood floor. The boat will grow in weight by at least 40 pounds. This made a cart and trailer essential for solo launch and recovery

*Cart*

The cart is made from a 1" by 8" piece of pine and some scrap 1/4" plywood from the boat build.



















I used a set of front lawnmower wheels and tires from Northern Tool.










A 3/16" diameter hair pin cotter and washer holds the wheel in place inboard. Notice the holes drilled in the bottom to allow water to drain from inside the cart. One of the trails we cart boats to floods and the trailer may be under water in those locations.










A 3/16" diameter lynch pin and washer holds the wheel in place outboard. The axle is 3/4" solid plated steel.










The bunks are pressure treated 2×4 and covered with marine bunk carpet.










Aluminum angle provides a solid and convenient mounting plate for the bunks.










The bunks mate with the runners on the boat, so only one strap is needed to hold the boat to the cart.

*Trailer Modifications*

I own an aluminum Triton utility trailer that sits nice and low. It made a good layout boat trailer with some modifications.










I added a rope winch called the Sky Winch from Greenfield Products, some rollers, and bunk carpet to enable solo launch and recovery even on dry land. I reinforced the trailer sides with white oak so that they wouldn't bend under the forces of the winch.










View of the lower roller and more reinforcement.










I built the cart to align with the trailer height for an easy transfer between cart and trailer.










View of the boat winched all the way forward. I tie the boat down with a strap at the bow and stern near each end of the cockpit. I'm pleased with both the cart and the trailer modifications.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss upholstering the layout board.


----------



## ramblinnman

DustyMark said:


> *Building a Cart and Modifying a Utility Trailer*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> It's been great to put the boat to use and discover how versatile it is in MN. It makes a great two-person fishing boat for small lakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's Mary with her first catch from the boat…a 20" Northern Pike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's me with our catch from another trip…a 5 pound and a 3 1/4 pound largemouth bass. We plan to modify the boat by installing adjustable pedestal columns, bass boat seats, and flush bases to mount them. This will require converting to a 3/4" plywood floor. The boat will grow in weight by at least 40 pounds. This made a cart and trailer essential for solo launch and recovery
> 
> *Cart*
> 
> The cart is made from a 1" by 8" piece of pine and some scrap 1/4" plywood from the boat build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a set of front lawnmower wheels and tires from Northern Tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 3/16" diameter hair pin cotter and washer holds the wheel in place inboard. Notice the holes drilled in the bottom to allow water to drain from inside the cart. One of the trails we cart boats to floods and the trailer may be under water in those locations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 3/16" diameter lynch pin and washer holds the wheel in place outboard. The axle is 3/4" solid plated steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bunks are pressure treated 2×4 and covered with marine bunk carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aluminum angle provides a solid and convenient mounting plate for the bunks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bunks mate with the runners on the boat, so only one strap is needed to hold the boat to the cart.
> 
> *Trailer Modifications*
> 
> I own an aluminum Triton utility trailer that sits nice and low. It made a good layout boat trailer with some modifications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added a rope winch called the Sky Winch from Greenfield Products, some rollers, and bunk carpet to enable solo launch and recovery even on dry land. I reinforced the trailer sides with white oak so that they wouldn't bend under the forces of the winch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the lower roller and more reinforcement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built the cart to align with the trailer height for an easy transfer between cart and trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the boat winched all the way forward. I tie the boat down with a strap at the bow and stern near each end of the cockpit. I'm pleased with both the cart and the trailer modifications.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss upholstering the layout board.


Looks like fun, and pan fried lunch too !!


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Building a Cart and Modifying a Utility Trailer*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> It's been great to put the boat to use and discover how versatile it is in MN. It makes a great two-person fishing boat for small lakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's Mary with her first catch from the boat…a 20" Northern Pike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's me with our catch from another trip…a 5 pound and a 3 1/4 pound largemouth bass. We plan to modify the boat by installing adjustable pedestal columns, bass boat seats, and flush bases to mount them. This will require converting to a 3/4" plywood floor. The boat will grow in weight by at least 40 pounds. This made a cart and trailer essential for solo launch and recovery
> 
> *Cart*
> 
> The cart is made from a 1" by 8" piece of pine and some scrap 1/4" plywood from the boat build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a set of front lawnmower wheels and tires from Northern Tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 3/16" diameter hair pin cotter and washer holds the wheel in place inboard. Notice the holes drilled in the bottom to allow water to drain from inside the cart. One of the trails we cart boats to floods and the trailer may be under water in those locations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 3/16" diameter lynch pin and washer holds the wheel in place outboard. The axle is 3/4" solid plated steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bunks are pressure treated 2×4 and covered with marine bunk carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aluminum angle provides a solid and convenient mounting plate for the bunks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bunks mate with the runners on the boat, so only one strap is needed to hold the boat to the cart.
> 
> *Trailer Modifications*
> 
> I own an aluminum Triton utility trailer that sits nice and low. It made a good layout boat trailer with some modifications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added a rope winch called the Sky Winch from Greenfield Products, some rollers, and bunk carpet to enable solo launch and recovery even on dry land. I reinforced the trailer sides with white oak so that they wouldn't bend under the forces of the winch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the lower roller and more reinforcement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built the cart to align with the trailer height for an easy transfer between cart and trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the boat winched all the way forward. I tie the boat down with a strap at the bow and stern near each end of the cockpit. I'm pleased with both the cart and the trailer modifications.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss upholstering the layout board.


Pan fried half the bass for one meal and baked the rest another night…tasty both ways. Looking forward to some diver ducks for stir fry!


----------



## ramblinnman

DustyMark said:


> *Building a Cart and Modifying a Utility Trailer*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> It's been great to put the boat to use and discover how versatile it is in MN. It makes a great two-person fishing boat for small lakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's Mary with her first catch from the boat…a 20" Northern Pike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's me with our catch from another trip…a 5 pound and a 3 1/4 pound largemouth bass. We plan to modify the boat by installing adjustable pedestal columns, bass boat seats, and flush bases to mount them. This will require converting to a 3/4" plywood floor. The boat will grow in weight by at least 40 pounds. This made a cart and trailer essential for solo launch and recovery
> 
> *Cart*
> 
> The cart is made from a 1" by 8" piece of pine and some scrap 1/4" plywood from the boat build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a set of front lawnmower wheels and tires from Northern Tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 3/16" diameter hair pin cotter and washer holds the wheel in place inboard. Notice the holes drilled in the bottom to allow water to drain from inside the cart. One of the trails we cart boats to floods and the trailer may be under water in those locations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 3/16" diameter lynch pin and washer holds the wheel in place outboard. The axle is 3/4" solid plated steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bunks are pressure treated 2×4 and covered with marine bunk carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aluminum angle provides a solid and convenient mounting plate for the bunks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bunks mate with the runners on the boat, so only one strap is needed to hold the boat to the cart.
> 
> *Trailer Modifications*
> 
> I own an aluminum Triton utility trailer that sits nice and low. It made a good layout boat trailer with some modifications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added a rope winch called the Sky Winch from Greenfield Products, some rollers, and bunk carpet to enable solo launch and recovery even on dry land. I reinforced the trailer sides with white oak so that they wouldn't bend under the forces of the winch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the lower roller and more reinforcement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built the cart to align with the trailer height for an easy transfer between cart and trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of the boat winched all the way forward. I tie the boat down with a strap at the bow and stern near each end of the cockpit. I'm pleased with both the cart and the trailer modifications.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment, I'll discuss upholstering the layout board.


And don't forget to save some for the cats!!


----------



## DustyMark

*Upholstering the Layout Board*

*Overview*

I've had my layout board dry assembled for quite some time, but put it on pause during construction of the second and third layout boats.










Those boats are nearing completion (about to fiberglass the decks), so we needed to keep prototyping the fitting out of my boat. The two major steps of upholstering the layout board are fastening the foam and fitting the cover.

*Fastening the Foam*

I used five layers of foam while building up the ergonomic shape of the layout board. The major build-up foam was scrap 1 1/2" pink polystyrene insulation from the floor support. I also used a piece of Mini-Cell foam leftover from fitting out a kayak. I bought a 1/2" camping pad for the final layers.










Outdoor carpet tape worked well to hold the flat sections in place.










Ready for the first layer of camping pad.










The head area will receive a second layer of camping pad foam.










Feathering transition in neck area.










A little bit of carpet tape applied under the feathered area.










Ready for the final layer of camping pad foam. *NOTE:* The outdoor carpet tape didn't hold the head foam well at all on the sides. I applied some Gorilla tape to hold down the sides before fitting the cover.










Ready to fit the cover.

*Better Foam Base on Subsequent Layout Boards*

I wasn't pleased with the layering of foam in my prototype layout board. It was unnecessarily complicated and that prevented a good hold with the carpet tape. These photos show a simpler method to layer the foam. I shaped the pink foam with a rasp with great success.










The pink foam base is four layers thick on this layout board.










The tape is only holding the cushioning foam in one plane with this approach. The tape held well. To attain max yield from the black foam, I spliced two pieces onto the pink base in the head/neck area.










Here is my brother's layout board ready to be covered with Cordura.

*Fitting the Cover*

I purchased 500D camouflage Cordura material from Snyder Creek, outdoor thread from Sailrite Kits, and Velcro from a local store.










We should have kept the very top piece of material as one piece all the way from the front to the back. I originally thought we would make a separate "saddle piece" to keep the cover in contact with the foam in the sculpted head area, but later discovered it was easier to sew in a dart. We'll do it different on the second and third boards.










All fitting is done inside out.










Ready for the second top piece.










Final piece pinned and ready for sewing.










Pinning the dart that holds the cover close to the sculpted area of the head rest.










Preparing to staple the bottom in place. Notice the Velcro that will hold the separate seat pad. The rest of the bottom edges are fastened with 1/4" long stainless steel staples.










Completed layout board.










Mary finishing up the seat pad.










Seat pad velcroed to the layout board.










It's comfy! I may have to set a recurring alarm to wake up while duck hunting…

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss my fishing boat conversion.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fishing Boat Conversion*

*Overview*

We wanted to have more comfort while using the layout boat for fishing, so we bought two pedestal bases and adjustable height pedestals to mount Wise fishing seats. This required replacing the 1/4" plywood floor with a 3/4" plywood floor to take the stress of a 9" diameter base.

*Floor Replacement*

We bought Springfield Taper-Lock pedestal bases and their 13"-21" adjustable height pedestals.










A view of the base under the floor.










The area under the floor is covered with 1 1/2" foam to support the old 1/4" floor. I decided to keep the foam for some reserve flotation. I increased to three threaded inserts in each rib to help hold the floor down.










I cut out a circle of the foam to make room for each base where it extends under the floor.










View of the floor installed. It only increased the overall weight of the boat by 22 pounds, so I'll keep this floor in all year. We recycled my old 1/4" floor to my nephew's boat that is ready for primer tomorrow.










These seats are going to work out well. The dog will be able to move around the boat easier. I'll remove my seat and continue to row from my normal position on the floor. I'll reinstall the seat once were anchored at a new spot.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss building the flip blind door frames.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fabricating the Flip Blind Door Frames*

*Overview*

I've enjoyed using the layout boat for fishing, but duck season is only a month away and it's time to finish the final stages of making this boat "disappear" from wary ducks in the marsh. That involves fabricating flip blind doors, a dog blind, and brushing out the entire boat. Fabricating the flip blind door frames requires head brackets, foot brackets, and tubular framing.

*Head Brackets*










Both aluminum crossbars attach to brackets screwed to the cockpit frame.










I raised the head bracket 5" with a wood block screwed to the crossbar. This gives enough clearance for my chest even with a life vest and a down coat on. The crossbar is held in place to the bracket with a push pin. I used bimini hinges to secure the doors. These hinges are screwed in place. Notice that I cut one end off the base of the bimini hinge to put it closer to the edge so the door frame rests lower when it is flipped open.










The door frame is held in place to the bimini hinge with a pin. The bimini fitting at the end of the tubing is held in place with a 10-24 machine screw and a locking nut.

*Foot Brackets*










The foot crossbar is similar to the one at the head. The hinges are attached with small machine screws and nuts at the outermost ends and with 3/16" rivets at the inner end.










The wood screwed to the foot crossbar holds the flip blind doors at the ideal height and keeps the door frames separated by about 1/2".

*Tubular Framing*

I wanted my flip blind doors to be light so that when I flip them open, they don't beat up the bimini hinges too much. I opted to use 3/4" aluminum tubing. This proved a challenge since it slipped while bending it using a conduit bender. My brother did the bending and with a little struggle, we produced two good door frames from two 8' sticks of aluminum tubing.










View from the stern.










Quartering view from stern. *NOTE: * I'll paint the crossbars and wood attachments once we're done sewing the door covers.










View from port side. *NOTE:* An option to consider is orienting the flip blind doors opposite from your oar locks. This would allow a person to chase cripples without removing the doors. I may flip mine around eventually, but I epoxied the brackets to the cockpit sides and will leave them in the current orientation for now. The next two boats will run in this reverse orientation. My brother thought of that today…it's nice for him that his and my nephew's boats aren't the prototype!!!

*Camouflage Considerations*

Our goal with the flip blind doors and dog blind is to make gradual transitions that create minimal shadow. This had to be balanced with the requirement to have our head at a comfortable height for spotting ducks in flight and also fit our body under the door frames with a life vest and heavy coat. I think we've achieved this with our doors. The door fabric will extend to the outer edge of the gunnels to ease the transition along the cockpit, provide a place to hide my oars, and also allow our arms to rest on the side deck or cockpit edge and still remain concealed.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss modifying a trailer to transport three of these layout boats.


----------



## DustyMark

*Triple-Stack Trailer Modification*

*Overview*

The three layout boats are done and we modified my brother's trailer to haul all three of them in a stacked configuration. Our set-up requires a frame to hold three boats, a set of ramps, and a cart.

*Frame*

The frame is constructed with pressure treated 2×4's held together with bolts and lag screws. Each bunk has a strip of wood that mates with the outside edge of the runners of the layout boat. This helps keep the boat aligned on the bunks.

The frame is connected to the trailer with four 1/2" bolts. The lower bunks fit between the bunks for the regular duck boat so all my brother has to do to reconfigure the trailer is remove the frame and reinstall the original bunks.










We load the boats from top down and unload them from the bottom up. Eyebolts provide points to attach the tie-down straps.

*Ramps*

At 160 pounds, these boats are too heavy to readily lift onto the second and third cradle. Our method is to use ramps and bring the boat up the ramps with the cart.










The ramps are constructed of pressure treated, 10' long, 2×12's and are reinforced beneath with a 2×4. I already owned a set of ramp caps to hold the ramps in position.










The ramp angle for the second level is reasonable. It is quite steep for the third level, but two guys can haul it up with the cart without too much fuss.

*Cart*

The cart is essential to moving these heavy boats up the ramp safely.



















See my previous blog entry for details about the cart. I will install an eye bolt in the front edge of the cart frame. This will provide a tie-down point to rope the cart in position once the boat is at the right height in relationship to the cradle.

We're looking forward to launching all three boats together for the first time!

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss sewing the flip blind doors.


----------



## DustyMark

*Sewing the Flip Blind Doors*

*Overview*

With all the framework complete for the flip blind doors, it was time to sew Cordura nylon to the frames. I made the plunge and bought a heavy duty sewing machine that I'd considered for many years.










This is the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 sewing machine. I considered this a major tool purchase and it will definitely make it easier to outfit these three layout boats. Here's a link to Sailrite Kits for more information on the machine.

*Material Selection*

We chose 1000D Cordura Nylon in Coyote Brown for the main panels from a vendor on E-Bay. We found 9/16" webbing for the brushing straps at a good price from an E-Bay vendor. We purchased the rest of the material online from Rockywoods Outdoors. Here's a link to Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics. The binding is 1" Grosgrain Ribbon, Mil-Spec 5038, Stiff. We used 3/4" webbing and buckles for fastening the door edges to the gunnel. The mesh panel over the face area is Mil-Spec Heavyweight Mesh fabric.

*Fabrication*

I modeled the flip blind doors after quality blinds for field hunting geese. The mesh panel in the face area helps hide your hands and face while calling ducks in.










I added 12 gauge wire from some scrap remaining after wiring the basement to make the mesh panel moldable. I worked this between the binding edge. NOTE: On subsequent doors, I'll run the wire deeper into the binding of the door frame to add rigidity and durability to the transition area of the mesh panel and the door.










View of face panel with door open.










Three rows of brushing straps provide a place to attach natural or artificial vegetation. The entire boat will be covered with Avery Killer Weed.










A 12" flap extends over the open foot area to cover my feet. *NOTE: * The square stitching pattern in the lower left of the picture is a double layer of Cordura reinforcement where the door chafes against the oarlock socket.



















I extended the second layer of material from the frame edges to the hinge points to beef up the whole assembly. The lower edges are held in with three tabs of Velcro. The frame edges are stabilized with stitching to prevent the panel from falling into the water when the door is flipped open.










Three buckles hold the flip blind door to the gunnel edge. This is a view of the buckle at the stern.










View of bow buckle. These buckles allow me to store my fancy oars out of sight of the ducks and outside the cockpit.










Good view of prototype door.










The highest point on this door assembly is only 16 1/2" above the waterline.

*Sewing Challenges*

This portion of the project is highly custom work and the sewing is quite involved. Four Rivers and MoMarsh both sell flip blind door kits worth considering. I wanted to sit up a little higher for more comfortable viewing, so I opted to make our own custom doors.

Coming up with a design that worked took a lot of trial and error. I had never sewed anything prior to this project and warmed up by sewing the two seat cushions and two layout boards before proceeding to the layout doors. I'm happy with how the prototype turned out and am convinced that the next five doors will turn out even better. I wouldn't attempt this project without a heavy duty sewing machine and a binding attachment. The binding produces clean edges avoiding the extra work of folding over and pinning the raw edges.

*Next*

In the next installment, I'll discuss sewing the brushing panels for the bow and stern.


----------



## DustyMark

*Sewing the Bow and Stern Brushing Panels*

*Overview*

The entire boat will be covered in Avery Killer Weed blind grass. The flip blind doors accommodate attachment via the brushing straps. I chose a heavy duty mesh material for the bow and stern of the boat. Small zip ties easily push through the mesh to fasten the grass anywhere on the surface.

*Brushing Panels*

My main objective is that the entire blind system be easy to install in the dark. These panels are each fastened with three buckles.










One buckle at the bow. Notice the binding that covers the ragged edge of the mesh.










One buckle at each corner.










Copper will walk over the grass to begin a retrieve. However, I'll release a buckle on whichever side he returns and roll the grass back so that he doesn't tear it up when he returns with a bird. This will also give him better grip with his claws in the carpet.










I cut openings around the anchor pole sleeve, anchor cleat, and bilge outlet. Each of these is reinforced with binding.










View of entire panel.










Brush from the foot of the flip blind door will overlap the bow brushing panel to avoid any gaps in coverage.

*Assessment*

I'm pleased with the qualities of these panels. They are flexible enough to roll up for transport and storage and yet are heavy enough to hopefully survive years of abuse. Here's a link to Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics, my source for this material.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss building the dog blind frame.


----------



## BurlyBob

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Bow and Stern Brushing Panels*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> The entire boat will be covered in Avery Killer Weed blind grass. The flip blind doors accommodate attachment via the brushing straps. I chose a heavy duty mesh material for the bow and stern of the boat. Small zip ties easily push through the mesh to fasten the grass anywhere on the surface.
> 
> *Brushing Panels*
> 
> My main objective is that the entire blind system be easy to install in the dark. These panels are each fastened with three buckles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One buckle at the bow. Notice the binding that covers the ragged edge of the mesh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One buckle at each corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper will walk over the grass to begin a retrieve. However, I'll release a buckle on whichever side he returns and roll the grass back so that he doesn't tear it up when he returns with a bird. This will also give him better grip with his claws in the carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut openings around the anchor pole sleeve, anchor cleat, and bilge outlet. Each of these is reinforced with binding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of entire panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brush from the foot of the flip blind door will overlap the bow brushing panel to avoid any gaps in coverage.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> I'm pleased with the qualities of these panels. They are flexible enough to roll up for transport and storage and yet are heavy enough to hopefully survive years of abuse. Here's a link to Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics, my source for this material.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss building the dog blind frame.


Mark, that is a gorgeous boat. Wish I knew someone around here like you. I'd have an honest to God Duck hunting partner.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Bow and Stern Brushing Panels*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> The entire boat will be covered in Avery Killer Weed blind grass. The flip blind doors accommodate attachment via the brushing straps. I chose a heavy duty mesh material for the bow and stern of the boat. Small zip ties easily push through the mesh to fasten the grass anywhere on the surface.
> 
> *Brushing Panels*
> 
> My main objective is that the entire blind system be easy to install in the dark. These panels are each fastened with three buckles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One buckle at the bow. Notice the binding that covers the ragged edge of the mesh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One buckle at each corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper will walk over the grass to begin a retrieve. However, I'll release a buckle on whichever side he returns and roll the grass back so that he doesn't tear it up when he returns with a bird. This will also give him better grip with his claws in the carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut openings around the anchor pole sleeve, anchor cleat, and bilge outlet. Each of these is reinforced with binding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View of entire panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brush from the foot of the flip blind door will overlap the bow brushing panel to avoid any gaps in coverage.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> I'm pleased with the qualities of these panels. They are flexible enough to roll up for transport and storage and yet are heavy enough to hopefully survive years of abuse. Here's a link to Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics, my source for this material.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss building the dog blind frame.


Thanks Bob! My brother and nephew used their boats for youth waterfowl last weekend. The doors weren't done yet and they both said they won't go out again without them. The boats rowed quite well through medium heavy wild rice. My brother's boat is leaking a little through one of the anchor pole holes. He'll need to caulk that one over again. Looking forward to opening waterfowl in two weekends. I need to sew five more doors, make two dog blinds, and brush my boat before then…nothing like a deadline! Going northern fishing with the layout boat this afternoon.


----------



## DustyMark

*Fabricating the Dog Blind Frame*

*Overview*

The only portion of the boat remaining to be covered is the dog blind area in the stern of the cockpit. Copper is pretty small, so I didn't leave him a whole lot of room to "nest." The height is just enough for my head to clear when I sit up. Copper can lay down or sit with his head lowered. Allowing him full seated head clearance would defeat the purpose of a layout boat.










*Construction*

I built the frame from 3/4" aluminum tubing and bimini fittings.










The tubing is bent to a radius of 13" to allow clearance for the bimini hardware and is mounted to the cross bar assembly with one-sided 1/2" EMT clamps.










The struts attach to the top tube with 3/4" nylon jaw slides that I purchased from Sailrite Kits. These made fabrication a whole lot easier.










The struts attach to the outside edge of the cockpit inside 7/8" aluminum tubing that is clamped in place with two-sided 3/4" EMT clamps.










The nylon jaw sliders came with a set screw. I removed the set screw and riveted the slider in place with a 3/16" rivet. That will be much more secure.

*Assembly*

The frame is a simple design and folds up nicely.










The struts can fold out.










I think I prefer them folded in. The mesh will be permanently sewn to the frame and the folded in position will likely cause the least hassle with the mesh and the Killerweed brushing material.










Assembly begins with the struts folded.










Unfold the struts.










Place struts in rear clamps.










Place crossbar into the cockpit clamps and insert retention pins. The flip blind doors would be installed next.

*Assessment*

It took some trial and error to get the bends I wanted, but aluminum is pretty easy to work in the conduit bender. It's important that the struts line up without binding. If they bind, assembly of the crossbar is difficult. I eventually attained a nice fit without any binding.



















The profile of the blind from the stern is rather abrupt. I plan to ease this transition by extending the mesh that covers the dog blind to about the midpoint of the rear deck.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss sewing the dog blind.


----------



## DustyMark

*Sewing the Dog Blind*

*Overview*

I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.

*Modeling*

The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.










I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.










I eventually got him in there.










I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.

*Features*










I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.










I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.










The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.










I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.










View from stern.

*Assessment*

Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.

*Next*

In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


----------



## BurlyBob

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Dog Blind*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.
> 
> *Modeling*
> 
> The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually got him in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.
> 
> *Features*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from stern.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


Mark, your boat it totally awesome!


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Dog Blind*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.
> 
> *Modeling*
> 
> The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually got him in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.
> 
> *Features*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from stern.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


Thanks Bob. I'm finding out that about half the total work was the basic boat build. All of the other custom goodies I've built added considerably more to the overall hours. Those also make the boat "mine." Eight days until waterfowl opener…


----------



## MATTW1992

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Dog Blind*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.
> 
> *Modeling*
> 
> The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually got him in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.
> 
> *Features*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from stern.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


Hey Mark, i have been looking into building one of these boats for abut 2 years now and i am planning on finally making the plunge after reading over this build series. i was curious where you bought the Kara plans from and had a few other questions about the build. just joined the sight and can't PM yet.


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Dog Blind*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.
> 
> *Modeling*
> 
> The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually got him in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.
> 
> *Features*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from stern.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


Matt, these are great boats. We've used them a few times out in the wild rice lakes that we regularly hunt and they're a very stable platform to hunt from. Our biggest concern is that we way overbuilt them (they "blimped out" to 160 pounds) for the kind of treks we take down muddy and rock strewn trails to reach remote lakes. My brother and I hauled our boats about a half mile into a great lake today and it was a "death march" that we won't do again. One bad stretch of the trail is rutted out with water flooded to almost 2' deep where even the boat and cart were floating. It took two of us to pull and push through those spots.

Once we got to the lake, we were set up great today. I finished my brother's dog blind and it worked awesome for his lab that weighs about 75 pounds. We gave her two inches more behind his layout board and also raised the height another two inches. Properly brushed, this doesn't seem to flare the ducks. She was able to place her head even with my brother's and mark many of the ten ducks we shot today. My brother released the dog by unzipping the back of the dog blind and letting her exit from the rear deck. She recovered to the same spot. It's a little hard for her to get in, but she eventually squeezes in!

If I were to do it over again, I would have only built my boat this season in order for it to serve as a prototype. As it stands, we have three overweight boats for our purposes. If you will do some remote access like we do, fiberglass and epoxy less of the plywood to shave weight. I'm putting a 1/4" plywood floor back in for duck season.

I think I included a link to the designer's website in my first blog entry. Plans are something like $30 plus $5 for shipping.

I plan to buy a Bobcat Mag 1 next year to use on some of our more remote lakes. It weighs only 65 pounds. Here's a link to their site. This won't take as much gear as the Kara Hummer, but it's an option or a supplement!


----------



## MATTW1992

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Dog Blind*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.
> 
> *Modeling*
> 
> The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually got him in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.
> 
> *Features*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from stern.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


The things that we are most concerned with is stability and a good hide. We built a custom blind for a John boat 2 years ago and it looks great but it is just too hard to hide in the bays along the finger lakes and bays of the great lakes. The furthest we will be humping these rigs is about 200 yards (after that they will be paddled or propelled by a small trolling motor), but we will definitely look into ways to reduce the overall weight. This build looks just as good as a production momarsh.


----------



## MATTW1992

DustyMark said:


> *Sewing the Dog Blind*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> I've only sewn for a week now and getting this dog blind right was quite the challenge for a rookie like me. However, I eventually prevailed! My goal was to establish a good profile that would hold even after adding the Avery Killerweed.
> 
> *Modeling*
> 
> The blind has a complex shape, so I did some modeling to establish a pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I began with the actual material draped over the frame, but this wasn't very helpful. Copper wasn't too excited about getting into the blind at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually got him in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a light tarp that was wrapped around my marine plywood delivery. I pinned the shape from the outside to experiment with what made good lines. I eventually used these pieces as rough patterns.
> 
> *Features*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I designed the dog blind so that Copper can see clearly out the bow by looking over my shoulder. He has a marginal view through the mesh and brushing material. It's a tight fit, but he settles down nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Copper's position safely behind me. NOTE: I removed the wire from the mesh in the flip blind door that helps hide my face. It was more of a bother than a benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drop into this blind from the rear deck isn't the easiest even for a small dog like Copper. I made entry and exit easier by installing a zipper. The zipper also gives me access to the anchor pole slot and the anchor cleat. I can easily reach over the dog blind to access the buckles and the zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the lines of the blind. Six buckles around the perimeter hold the mesh and help keep the blind's shape. My head clears the front bar by about an inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from stern.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> Designing and sewing the blind was a pain, but the final product made the effort worthwhile. I need to sew my other flip blind door and then I'll brush the boat.
> 
> *Next*
> 
> In the next installment I'll discuss brushing the boat with Avery Killer Weed.


Looking forward to seeing the final product all grassed in!!


----------



## DustyMark

*Brushing the Boat*

*Overview*

All of the sewing is done and I included brushing straps on the flip blind doors to insert brushing material. I planned to use zip ties on the mesh panels at the bow and stern and on the dog blind. The original plan was to use Avery Killer Weed, a Rafia grass product, over the whole boat. That didn't work out as well as planned…

*First Attempt = Failure*

I blended Avery Killer Weed's All-Terrain and Cattail Slough together thinking it would be an effective color combination. Here's how I applied it.










I experimented with the end panels first and applied the brushing material with zip ties.










The dog blind was next.










I zip tied the material to the brushing straps on the flip blind doors.










There are three rows of brushing straps on each door and I cut the material to slightly overlap the lower layer.










Here's the final product…very brushy! I applied way too much to the doors. Once Killer Weed gets wet, it gets heavy. Less is better.










Unfortunately, it was the wrong color. We nailed our opening day location at a remote wild rice lake and saw hundreds of ducks. However, we were the wrong color and all the birds flared before committing to our decoys. I was so frustrated, that I cut $150 worth of Killer Weed off and threw it in the trash when I got home! That was rash as I should have cut only half of it off and blended in natural material with it…OOPS!

*Second Attempt*

I decided to go with all natural brushing material.










I sewed brushing straps on the end panels to make this easier.










Here's the boat with all natural brushing material.










Another view.










I cut some vegetation from the area we hunt. Here it is resting in front of the dog blind. You can see that the color is a good match. We now have ducks landing in the decoys or at least coming for a close pass that often proves fatal.










Here's a photo from today's hunt. We weren't a perfect match, but were close. We cut vegetation from behind us and threw it on the boats. Some mallards decoyed and we took home two.










A closer view. We were packing up, so you see some decoy bags in the background. Copper's face can be seen, but that doesn't seem to flare the ducks.

*Assessment*

We're learning the importance of matching your location on the day of the hunt. The only way to do this is with natural vegetation. We carry machetes to supplement our brushing job and blend it in better. All-natural brushing material is sort of a pain as it needs to be topped off before every hunt. I don't load the boat with a tremendous amount of brushing material, so the brush that falls off needs to be replaced before the next hunt.










We're enjoying some successful hunts and had diver ducks just pouring into our decoys the other day. We limited out quickly and rowed home early!

Next season I plan to add a thin base layer of Rafia grass in a better matched color. I'll then supplement that with natural vegetation to blend in at the hide sight.

*Final Thoughts*

1. I'm glad we built the Kara Hummer boats. It's an awesome design. 
2. Building them heavy was a double-edged sword…they'll last a very long time, but they're difficult to cart around on muddy trails.
3. I would consider using CPES from the Rot Doctor to seal up much of the boat if I were hoping to build a lighter boat. I'm using it on my teardrop camper build and am quite impressed with the product so far. 
4. Our outfitting job made all the difference in comfort and utility. The flip blind doors keep you warm and dry in the worst weather. The layout board is comfortable enough to sleep on… we take turns napping during longer hunts. The dogs squeeze into their blinds well and are comfortable for hours at a time. 
5. My fancy oarlocks weren't worth the hassle while rowing through heavy, early season wild rice. I switched to cheap, clamp-on oar locks. The ash oars are great and absolutely bomb-proof.
6. One boat couldn't do it all for our hunting environment. Later in the season, I bought a used 13' solo canoe for hunting the most remote lakes by myself. I plan to make brushing panels for it and will use it similar to a layout boat.
7. These make great fishing boats for small lakes. We absolutely love our pedestal seat conversion for the summer fishing season.
8. I'd build this boat again without hesitation.

That's it for my Kara Hummer build blog! I hope it proves helpful to fellow builders.


----------



## freerange

DustyMark said:


> *Brushing the Boat*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> All of the sewing is done and I included brushing straps on the flip blind doors to insert brushing material. I planned to use zip ties on the mesh panels at the bow and stern and on the dog blind. The original plan was to use Avery Killer Weed, a Rafia grass product, over the whole boat. That didn't work out as well as planned…
> 
> *First Attempt = Failure*
> 
> I blended Avery Killer Weed's All-Terrain and Cattail Slough together thinking it would be an effective color combination. Here's how I applied it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I experimented with the end panels first and applied the brushing material with zip ties.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dog blind was next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I zip tied the material to the brushing straps on the flip blind doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are three rows of brushing straps on each door and I cut the material to slightly overlap the lower layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the final product…very brushy! I applied way too much to the doors. Once Killer Weed gets wet, it gets heavy. Less is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, it was the wrong color. We nailed our opening day location at a remote wild rice lake and saw hundreds of ducks. However, we were the wrong color and all the birds flared before committing to our decoys. I was so frustrated, that I cut $150 worth of Killer Weed off and threw it in the trash when I got home! That was rash as I should have cut only half of it off and blended in natural material with it…OOPS!
> 
> *Second Attempt*
> 
> I decided to go with all natural brushing material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sewed brushing straps on the end panels to make this easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the boat with all natural brushing material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut some vegetation from the area we hunt. Here it is resting in front of the dog blind. You can see that the color is a good match. We now have ducks landing in the decoys or at least coming for a close pass that often proves fatal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo from today's hunt. We weren't a perfect match, but were close. We cut vegetation from behind us and threw it on the boats. Some mallards decoyed and we took home two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A closer view. We were packing up, so you see some decoy bags in the background. Copper's face can be seen, but that doesn't seem to flare the ducks.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> We're learning the importance of matching your location on the day of the hunt. The only way to do this is with natural vegetation. We carry machetes to supplement our brushing job and blend it in better. All-natural brushing material is sort of a pain as it needs to be topped off before every hunt. I don't load the boat with a tremendous amount of brushing material, so the brush that falls off needs to be replaced before the next hunt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're enjoying some successful hunts and had diver ducks just pouring into our decoys the other day. We limited out quickly and rowed home early!
> 
> Next season I plan to add a thin base layer of Rafia grass in a better matched color. I'll then supplement that with natural vegetation to blend in at the hide sight.
> 
> *Final Thoughts*
> 
> 1. I'm glad we built the Kara Hummer boats. It's an awesome design.
> 2. Building them heavy was a double-edged sword…they'll last a very long time, but they're difficult to cart around on muddy trails.
> 3. I would consider using CPES from the Rot Doctor to seal up much of the boat if I were hoping to build a lighter boat. I'm using it on my teardrop camper build and am quite impressed with the product so far.
> 4. Our outfitting job made all the difference in comfort and utility. The flip blind doors keep you warm and dry in the worst weather. The layout board is comfortable enough to sleep on… we take turns napping during longer hunts. The dogs squeeze into their blinds well and are comfortable for hours at a time.
> 5. My fancy oarlocks weren't worth the hassle while rowing through heavy, early season wild rice. I switched to cheap, clamp-on oar locks. The ash oars are great and absolutely bomb-proof.
> 6. One boat couldn't do it all for our hunting environment. Later in the season, I bought a used 13' solo canoe for hunting the most remote lakes by myself. I plan to make brushing panels for it and will use it similar to a layout boat.
> 7. These make great fishing boats for small lakes. We absolutely love our pedestal seat conversion for the summer fishing season.
> 8. I'd build this boat again without hesitation.
> 
> That's it for my Kara Hummer build blog! I hope it proves helpful to fellow builders.


you mention above using "CPES to seal up much of the boat", how so? Like painting this on the inside instead of fiberglass and epoxy? Any other ideas on making this lighter?


----------



## DustyMark

DustyMark said:


> *Brushing the Boat*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> All of the sewing is done and I included brushing straps on the flip blind doors to insert brushing material. I planned to use zip ties on the mesh panels at the bow and stern and on the dog blind. The original plan was to use Avery Killer Weed, a Rafia grass product, over the whole boat. That didn't work out as well as planned…
> 
> *First Attempt = Failure*
> 
> I blended Avery Killer Weed's All-Terrain and Cattail Slough together thinking it would be an effective color combination. Here's how I applied it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I experimented with the end panels first and applied the brushing material with zip ties.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dog blind was next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I zip tied the material to the brushing straps on the flip blind doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are three rows of brushing straps on each door and I cut the material to slightly overlap the lower layer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the final product…very brushy! I applied way too much to the doors. Once Killer Weed gets wet, it gets heavy. Less is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, it was the wrong color. We nailed our opening day location at a remote wild rice lake and saw hundreds of ducks. However, we were the wrong color and all the birds flared before committing to our decoys. I was so frustrated, that I cut $150 worth of Killer Weed off and threw it in the trash when I got home! That was rash as I should have cut only half of it off and blended in natural material with it…OOPS!
> 
> *Second Attempt*
> 
> I decided to go with all natural brushing material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sewed brushing straps on the end panels to make this easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the boat with all natural brushing material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut some vegetation from the area we hunt. Here it is resting in front of the dog blind. You can see that the color is a good match. We now have ducks landing in the decoys or at least coming for a close pass that often proves fatal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo from today's hunt. We weren't a perfect match, but were close. We cut vegetation from behind us and threw it on the boats. Some mallards decoyed and we took home two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A closer view. We were packing up, so you see some decoy bags in the background. Copper's face can be seen, but that doesn't seem to flare the ducks.
> 
> *Assessment*
> 
> We're learning the importance of matching your location on the day of the hunt. The only way to do this is with natural vegetation. We carry machetes to supplement our brushing job and blend it in better. All-natural brushing material is sort of a pain as it needs to be topped off before every hunt. I don't load the boat with a tremendous amount of brushing material, so the brush that falls off needs to be replaced before the next hunt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're enjoying some successful hunts and had diver ducks just pouring into our decoys the other day. We limited out quickly and rowed home early!
> 
> Next season I plan to add a thin base layer of Rafia grass in a better matched color. I'll then supplement that with natural vegetation to blend in at the hide sight.
> 
> *Final Thoughts*
> 
> 1. I'm glad we built the Kara Hummer boats. It's an awesome design.
> 2. Building them heavy was a double-edged sword…they'll last a very long time, but they're difficult to cart around on muddy trails.
> 3. I would consider using CPES from the Rot Doctor to seal up much of the boat if I were hoping to build a lighter boat. I'm using it on my teardrop camper build and am quite impressed with the product so far.
> 4. Our outfitting job made all the difference in comfort and utility. The flip blind doors keep you warm and dry in the worst weather. The layout board is comfortable enough to sleep on… we take turns napping during longer hunts. The dogs squeeze into their blinds well and are comfortable for hours at a time.
> 5. My fancy oarlocks weren't worth the hassle while rowing through heavy, early season wild rice. I switched to cheap, clamp-on oar locks. The ash oars are great and absolutely bomb-proof.
> 6. One boat couldn't do it all for our hunting environment. Later in the season, I bought a used 13' solo canoe for hunting the most remote lakes by myself. I plan to make brushing panels for it and will use it similar to a layout boat.
> 7. These make great fishing boats for small lakes. We absolutely love our pedestal seat conversion for the summer fishing season.
> 8. I'd build this boat again without hesitation.
> 
> That's it for my Kara Hummer build blog! I hope it proves helpful to fellow builders.


Yes, that would save some weight. I read a another builder's blog and he used okume mahogany plywood in a thinner version. That would get pretty expensive. Check out some of Carsten's boats. They're potentially lighter and about the price of a build.


----------

