# Workbench Challenge



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Best bang for the buck*

*I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

*It is really a challenge* for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

*The rules* I'm using for myself are:

1) *Cost*........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) *Function*...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) *Simple Construction*.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) *Flexible Design*..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) *Accessible Materials*.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

*When I'm done* I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

*So here's my starting point*. 
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.










*I call the one* I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... 

Paul


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Sounds promising


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


This will be fun to watch. I remember being in on the beginning of the V8. A short block is a good challenge. I will be paying attention.

Steve


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Welcome back Thomas!


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## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


This sounds like fun!


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a fun one Paul
Have fun 

Jamie


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## secureplay (Jun 3, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


I'll follow this closely! Your last bench was great.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


I wish I had the time to jump in on this but I will enjoy it vicariously. Thanks for leading the way. This could be a starting point for many who need a smaller but very functional bench. I've got a couple of bench vice screws I've collected somewhere along the way that I always wanted to make a bench for. This may be the lead I need. I hate working from plan books, I've just never done it, so an original approach is something I am interested in.

Thanks Paul,

Ken


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


I'm sure this will be a excellent solid bench Paul and it will be a great inspiration for others needing a good but economical easy to build bench. I doubt that anyone with your woodworking skills needs any luck to make this bench, but good luck anyway just for good form, and I will be watching this build with great interest.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul. i might be able to see it in person this winter. I wish I could bring you a worksurface down from Steelcase. They are laminate covered, real flat and glue cleans off of them real well. They come about 1 1/4" thick . I have two benches with them and love using them.

See you in Feb…..................Jim


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Interesting!

What's your estimated cost right now?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Good luck Paul, this will be fun & thanks for posting.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


i dont see any of your fancy veneer here paul…so i take it we wont have to go to england for any of the wood we might need….lol…


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Good luck building up that short block ;-))


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Sounds like an interesting project, and I'm eager to see the outcome with all of its features.


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## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Great to know you and Elinor arrived safely and have settled into the Southern Lifestyle. I for one, will be watching with interest … being the novice carpenter!

Now … get to work! cause you've got precious veneer to play with!!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


This is going to be GOOD!


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


*Sounds like a Super thing to be involved in…*

How about Size limitations, since that's why you're doing it? LOL

... or Size categories…??

I have always been impressed with "The Newfangled Workbench" that was in Fine WW'g some time ago… and has a few Threads / projects present here in LJs.

Looks like yours is going to at least 24" x 48" for the Top… 

Good to see you back… glad you got here OK!


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Paul, I like the fact that you have rules going in. And I really like the fact that you are approaching this as something that anyone could build. I think this one will be as popular as your last one. I'll be looking on.


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Paul, I am sure that this is going to turn out to be a project that lives up to your reputation for brilliance and innovation in design. I'll be following along closely!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


*Joe*, my bench will be 24×48 but the SU plans will clearly indicate which dimensions to increase to make a bigger one. The rest will be the same.
No size restrictions.

*Bob*, maybe I'll veneer mine a little after the end of the build proper….. or not.


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## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Fantastic Paul! I'm in the home stretch with my bench, only my free wood happens to be 2-1/4" thick maple butcher block. Hit the jackpot with that remodel!


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## Boatman53 (May 21, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Good luck Paul, I think you will be able to pull it off. Keep us apprised of your thought processes, maybe we can help head off problems.
Jim


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## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


I think this is a great idea Paul. I really like your V8 bench, a lot of innovation there. I am anxious to see what you do here.


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## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Paul, I don't even have wonder how this will turn out, I know it will be up to your normal uncompromising standard,
(and we all just might learn a thing or two)
Just love the way you tackle a challenge Mate. Cant wait to see 
Pete


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


It will be interesting for sure.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Watching with interest Paul. Good luck!


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## TheHarr (Sep 16, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


You got me interested. I am attracted to the goal you set for yourself. I know you will come up with another outstanding design. You don't need luck, but, good luck. Best wishes.


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## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Good luck Paul, This should be an interesting blog. Even if I don't need another bench I am curious to see what you come up with. I just wish I could move to Arizona for the winters, the cold and lake effect snow along Lake Erie are getting tiring.


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## nomercadies (Dec 31, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


I must follow this.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


I'm in!


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


...I'll start the Popcorn.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


The Dumpster bench:









old 2×10 waterbed frame, rip four legs, and plane off the saw marks. (could be HD 2×10 if you can pick out a good one)









Basic set of tools.









Notch the ends of a 2×10 for the legs. ( If you get a long enough BORG 2×10, all can be cut from one board)









Notches 4" up from the legs feet. Leftovers from the leg ripping are used as stretchers between the legs. Circ.saw to make the notch, chisel to smooth it up. Glue and screws to attach.









Attach the legs assemblies to the notched ends of the top. Prep aprons and start a tool tray









Aprons can be just 2×4s, I used a 5/4 board for the front. Mine came from a dumpster, couple of BORG 2×4x96" will do. Ends sit in a lap joint, then glue and screws. Attach apron to the bench top with screws. There will be a space for a tool well in the back. Bottom of my tray was just an old footboard piece. Any strip of plywood will do.









Feet: Mine were just a pair of 2×6 scraps, any leftovers from the BORG lumber will do. I added a block of 2x stock on each end. All screwed together. Tool tray sit on a 1×2 cleat. Handplane to level the top.









Top is about 5' long, or so. Can be any length, as needful. Top can even be a 2×12, or a few 2×6" glued up. I added a leg vise made from a pipe clamp and a 2×6 oak plank. There is also a Crochet on one end. Now, IF you can find the bench under all of the stuff..









My cost for mateirials was $7 for a box of 2" long screws. All else was recycled stuff.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Well this will be a interestig tutorial I am sure and I will follow it closely .
I could use another bench as the room I have on the one attached to my table saw/router table is no sufficient at times ,the problem in my case is room .
As for my use it would have to have lots of clamping possibilities like a vise or two and I am interested what you come up with for that .
While I wait I will see where I could possibly store one of these with both cars in the garage .


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


*bandit571*

NICE… A quick n dirty fantastic lil bench!

Couldn't quite see how the leg vise worked…

Great thinking!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Leg vise uses a pipe clamp through the leg. The part with the threads is fastened to the movable jaw. The sliding part of the pipe clamp bears against the other side of the leg. I can rough adjust to size by sliding things out, then latching the sliding half in place. Tighten the vise by turning the screw part.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Best bang for the buck*
> 
> *I have just arrived* back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.
> 
> ...


Glad you arrived safely. This will be a great blog…looking forward to watching…


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Getting Started and the Plans*

*I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.

*I will format the rest* of this blog as building instructions and will try to do it to suit beginning woodworkers so please bear with me if you are more experienced.

*Here's what I'm building* (Click the photo for the Sketchup 3D Warehouse to download.)

"


  






*I have been having* some pack rat problems both in the shop and in my car that have kept me from getting started with this project but they are getting straightened out and I got about an hour and a half in yesterday.
I started with the dog hole strips because they are the trickiest part of the basic bench and it's nice to get them out of the way.

*If you look* at the SU model, you will see that the two sheets of plywood can be cut at the source to four pieces each and fit in a car. That's great but all the pieces aren't the same so make sure you use the right piece to cut any given parts.

*This is the* 47 1/2" X 22" piece (upper right part of the lower sheet) and I have laid out the strips that will make the dog hole parts and the filler pieces that go with them. These are pieces K,L,M,N,and P. The 1/4" MDF assembly at the left is a simple jig to make circular saw cutting accurate.










*Here's the jig in action*.










*... and here is* the piece cut off with the parts letter marked as in the SU. Also notice that the dog holes are marked.










*In preparation for* routing the dog hole halves, take a quick measurement from the cutting edge of your bit (3/4" core box) to the edge of the router base. This doesn't have to be terribly accurate so a tape is fine.










*Next clamp* a straight edged scrap to the plywood, square to the edge and your router measurement from the nearest side of the groove layout lines.










*Now you can set* your bit to a depth that will give you half of a 3/4" diameter hole. Do this by grooving two pieces of scrap and putting them together over a 3/4" dowel. Adjust the bit until the hole is round and the dowel is a nice fit. When you know you are set up you can rout the groove. It would be nice to do this in several shallow passes but unless you have a plunge router with an accurate stop it will mean a lot of re-adjusting of the depth for all the holes. Just move slowly and even a cheap bit like this one will do a fine job. If you aren't used to doing this try it on some scrap first . The important thing is to keep pressure on the guide stick so you don't wander.










*When you are done* the first five grooves separate the long strips (K,L) from the short ones (M,N), again using the $1.50 table saw and cut the remaining two grooves in the long strips only.










*Now you have* one long strip with seven hole grooves and one short one with five holes and two spacers (P) that will be cut off. (The cut line for the "P" parts here was changed after these photos to give the last dog hole more beef. The SU reflects the change)










*Now you have to cut* the two halves of each piece apart. This takes a little alteration in the technique. As you don't have enough to clamp the jig to, just screw it down on your mark. Use screws long enough to extend into the piece below to stabilize the whole thing for the cut. Of course when making plywood cuts over other plywood, always sight under the cut line to make sure you won't be cutting the piece below. Here it is ll set up nice and stable and clear of the "bench" piece that it is screwed to. (The piece that does appear to be under the cut line is a couple of pieces down and out of the way)










*Here's a dry fit* of the two strips. The "P" pieces are not yet cut off.










*That's as far* as I got in the time I had but it's a start. I'll try to get some time in over the weekend. It shouldn't take long. (famous last words)

Thanks for looking in,

Paul


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## JeremyPringle (Aug 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


This is really interesting.


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## Patricelejeune (Feb 21, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Cool, I want to see that bench.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Off to a good start Paul. Great blog fun to watch.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


You are a clever boy.
Good work Paul.

Steve


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Hey Paul, You should send this into a few wood working magazines they may pay you for it or at least do it as a featured article. Great job


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are building 'er real sturdy. That will be the place everything else is made so it has to be good!!

Cheers, Jim


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Paul this looks fantastic. I myself have a $1.50 tablesaw… Can't wait to see it come together!


----------



## Boatman53 (May 21, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul I agree with Sandhill. You should submit this to a couple of magazines. I've seen worse/ill-conceived benches published.
Jim


----------



## MrFid (Mar 9, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Very cool Paul I'll be following along.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


yea i learned a long time ago…when i expect it to take 3 hours, make it 6….its just the way it is,,,things are looking might fine, however i have to say im suprised that there is a ryobi router in the house…lol…i was expecting something of a bit more quality…..but…whatever works i guess….


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Quality doesn't come from the tools Bob. You know that. ......


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


yes, you are so right, shame on me for dissing ryobi….heck if people judged my projects on how i looked, i would still be in kindergarten…lol…have a good weekend.


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Paul the sketch up model looks great…you have really increased your skill level! I like the technique here and using the core box bit winds up giving you a nice round dog hole.

What do you think about just gluing the two pieces of plywood together and drilling a 3/4" hole with one of those new speed bore bits? They chew through plywood like butter. Would that be easier? What am I missing?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mat,
I'm trying to get it done with cheap basic tools. Without a drill press it would be tricky to get accurate holes square to the top. It could be done of course, six of one …...half dozen of the other. I will use something like that to drill the top and bottom using the existing hole as a guide.


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


Great start Paul, I like how all your blogs are very clear in the procedure.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Getting Started and the Plans*
> 
> *I know that* I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.
> 
> ...


My Dad always said that all the best tools don't always make you a better woodworker. A craftsman uses his skill and talents with the tools he has. I'm following with interest.

Ken


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*

*Warning*, entry level instructions.

*Additional note* Of course if you have a table saw, ..... use it and disregard this segment.

*When I left off* I had dry fitted the dog hole logs so next up before we start all the ripping we should glue them up. First of course you have to cut off the pieces *P* from the ends of the short dog hole strips *M* and *N*.
The best way to make sure the holes line up is to put some dowels or whatever in a couple of the holes while you glue and screw them. I happened to have the Gramercy holdfasts that I'm going to use in the bench on hand so no better line up jigs. I'm using screws instead of clamps because I'm trying to keep the tool list as small and affordable as possible. I do have better tools for these jobs you know.

I think most will recognize the clamps that I am using as the famous $2.00 HF plastic bar clamps. I love them. Yes, they break sometimes but I just buy a few extras.










*Now on to ripping* all that plywood with the $1.50 table saw. Because of the sequence of grooving and separating and more grooving in the dog hole strips, I cut to lines spaced about the kerf of my skilsaw blade.
For a lot of strips that kind of layout is not only time consuming but prone to inaccuracy so here's the way I cut these strips to be identical.

*There are lots* of 3 1/2" strips so I'll use them as an example. First , lay out a mark 3 1/2" from a factory edge and then make a little nick freehand with the skilsaw just on the line but outside it. Line a piece of scrap up with the outside of the kerf and mark a square line on it at the edge of the sheet.










*Glue another* little piece of scrap on exactly at the line.










*You now have* a guide to setup as many identical 3 1/2" cuts as you want. Just butt the cutting jig against it at each end and clamp. Check both ends once more and then cut off the strip. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. .... You get it.










*This is another way* that works if you only have a few but if you have more and you're like me you will inadvertently use the square for something in the middle of it all and have to try to get it back exactly where it was again.









*When you get* too close to the edge for clamping, use a screw.










*When you get* really close use a screw and a piece of scrap to support the cutting jig. Don't worry if the screw mushrooms the MDF a little. This isn't the guide line, it's the cut line. What you do have to watch is that the screw itself doesn't infringe on the line.










*Make a cut list* or print out the sheet from the SU and strike off the pieces cut.










*When you finish* one of the sheet quarters, lay out the pieces like the plan to check it.










*I didn't take* any photos of the cross cutting as I was doing it freehand to the lines and didn't have a hand for the camera. It's pretty easy that way but by all means, make a little guide if you don't feel confident freehand.

*So now almost* all the pieces are cut, except for the curved ones. Next up will be cutting the notches for the half laps and maybe some assembly.

*Thanks for looking in*

Paul


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> *Warning*, entry level instructions.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul
This is a interesting way of building and kind of reminds me of working on site with limited tools available.
Make thinks work with what you have with you and get it done but don't sacrifice quality .
This looks good and ingenious .
I will stay tuned 
Thanks for your time going into this and it is much appreciated !


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> *Warning*, entry level instructions.
> 
> ...


Very good… I got it… 

Thank you!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> *Warning*, entry level instructions.
> 
> ...


I hope a lot of entry level woodworkers will watch this Blog Paul so they can build themselves a decent workbench. Along the way they will also learn a lot about how to get great results with typical DIY tools, which is what most of us hobbyists started with. I'm sure those of us with more experience will pick up some good ideas along the way too. I applaud your generosity in sharing your skills with us.

Your way of showing this build is in stark contrast to many of the wood magazines with their experts demonstrating how to build things with a vast array of very expensive tools, but with the projects themselves at a beginners level. Very unrealistic and it makes folks think that they need all those fancy tools to build anything.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> *Warning*, entry level instructions.
> 
> ...


Ditto on Mike's comments. I quit subscribing to any woodworking Magazines years ago for that reason.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> *Warning*, entry level instructions.
> 
> ...


I'm loving this Paul, keep it up!


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> *Warning*, entry level instructions.
> 
> ...


Yeah. Exactly what Mike said.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*

*While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.

*To begin the * half-lapping of the bench top framing, lay out the long pieces and clamp them as a unit. Then mark the half-lap notches on them. Mark one side of the notch from the dimensions but mark the second with a piece of your plywood as a spacer. The plywood is not actually 3/4" and you want a snug fit.










*Here the first* notch has been cut and a piece of plywood is fitted in it to lock the pieces together in alignment while the rest are cut. The next notch has had its edge cuts made, just inside the lines.










*Then you make* a few more cuts between the first two and pry the scrap out with a chisel. Follow this up by "planing" the bottom of the notch by moving the saw from side to side as you advance it through the cut. It is easier than it sounds.



















*This is what* your fit should look like.










*Here all* the notches are cut.










*Now begin laying* out the cross pieces. There are some notches that are double width for the dog hole logs. Be sure to mark them with two pieces of plywood as a marking spacer.



















*Parts "R" and "O"* now get a spacer, "P" on each side and then another notched in strip. Again, fit from the work. If you use measurements here the tiny differences in thickness will start to add up so use a piece of scrap to make the marks and then transfer those marks to cut the corresponding notches in part"O".




























*With all these parts* dry fitted, screw the corners together with some slim 2" screws. They won't split the plywood and will hold well if you drill for them first.










*Set this assembly* aside and we will move on to the top and bottom of the torsion box table top.










...........but that will have to wait. I'm golfing tomorrow.

*Thanks for looking in.*

Paul


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


Interesting. How did you bore the holes? Wood auger? Just curious, I've never bored plywood on the edge.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


It's progressing very quickly. A nice simple build with the helpful tips about accurate cutting and marking. Golf in November? You must have a nice climate there Paul.


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


Nice build Paul but do did you have to mention the part about golfing. You know some of us are having snow


----------



## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


I'm glad this tutorial doesn't have any limitations for future viewing Paul! True to carpenter-challenged me, I started getting confused close to the beginning!! Not to worry though, because I know this wonderfully talented fellow who lives close to home (occasionally!), I could hire to build me the table of my dreams 
I may be a tad confused, but I'm still avidly watching how magically you make everything fit together … hoping I'll absorb some of this wonderful knowledge. Thanks Paul!


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


Making good progress here Paul, and great advice on fitting from the work! This is going to be a sturdy bench!


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


Moving right along and should be nice and study by looking at this .


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


Looks great Paul!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


*Topamax*, they are done with a router in an earlier segment of the blog.

*Mike*, I am in Az now you know. (Sorry Paul, it was a little mean).

*Elaine*, I will explain it all to you some day.

Thanks for the comments


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


Sorry, Paul. I looked back one segment and didn't see the holes, so I assumed….... ;-)

tinnman65, get a dark colored ball.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches*
> 
> *While I have given* quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.
> 
> ...


I've never understood this golf thing. It holds no fascination for me and never has but I suppose it is a good diversion for some of us. I like how you are thinking here and as I see it evolve, I like it very much. You can do a lot with nominal and readily available materials if you think it through. I've always been intrigued by the moniker of "solid wood". Does that imply only sawn material from a log? Obviously not. This looks pretty solid to me. Unit body construction. I like your thinking Paul. I was a budding engineer in one of my previous lives and came to appreciate the strength and economy of "engineered materials". Where would we be without plywood?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Assembling the Top*

*OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..










*Next, mark the area* where the wagon vice will go.










*Then flip the whole* thing over and screw the bottom on.










*After removing the top* repeat the marking of the holes and wagon vice location on the bottom sheet.



















*Now you can* remove the framing and finish the holes in the top and bottom sheets.










*I like to feel* for the tip of the bit coming through and stop the hole. Then I finish it from the top for a cleaner hole with less chip out. If you don't feel good about doing that, don't. Just have a piece of scrap underneath the hole to minimize tearout.










*I finished the holes* with a little corner round because it is plywood and loves to splinter. If it were solid wood I wouldn't do it.










*That's it for* the top for now. We will get back to it after the legs are assembled. With a little luck that will happen tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


----------



## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Nice job…I wish I would have had this kind of tutorial when I built my first bench…or even knew about torsion boxes!


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Nice. Love the technique with the hole drilling.

I think you should glue the top and bottom to the torsion frame. And glue it to all the members including those middle strips. But maybe you need to get back inside for now, I don't know, I guess you will for the wagon vise.

Looking really good though,
Steve


----------



## renthal (May 11, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Glad to see you back in Arizona. Need to plan a trip to hang with you and bask in your brilliance.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


I think he's going to hold off with the glue until everything is done, vise / vice & all…
... then make with the glue… but, make it possible to service the vise (in the future, if req'd).

Just a Guess… will probably be wrong… BUT, I agree, things should eventually be glued…
... but if Paul doesn't glue, he will have a good reason for it… 

Looking good so far…

Thank you.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Nice sturdy top. Paul. I do the same thing with Forstner bits every time. It prevents tear out big time!!
Cheers, Jim


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Lot of good work done here


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Nice job and interesting design.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


*Steve* , the bottom of the torsion box will have to be fastened to the legs first for rigidity. Then all the parts will glue up nice and strong.

.......... be patient. All will be revealed.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Top*
> 
> *OK, I'm back* from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
> Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..
> ...


Good methodical approach Paul. It will be interesting to see how the legs and top go together.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Assembling the Legs*

*This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.

*To start off* here are two ways to assemble the legs:

*For the vice side* I assembled the four sections first and then slipped the resulting finger joints together. Before this can be done there is one more operation to do and that is the cutting of the two rebates that will form the hole for he lower leg vice brace. Do these the same way as you cut the notches in the top framing and then assemble them face to face like this.



















*Continue to dry-assemble* the leg as per the sketchup using just a few screws until the unit is together. Then, unless you are a lot better than me with a skilsaw, you will have a little clean up to do with a plane before glue-up. Once it is all cleaned up, disassemble it and re-assemble it with glue using the screw holes as a guide to accurately relocating the pieces.










*Next assemble* the top, bottom and back leg components in a similar fashion. If you want to shape the ends of the feet this is the time. I'm using a cheap jig saw to make the curve but just a 45 off the corner would look as good and could be done with the skilsaw. You don't need the expensive circle marking jig, you can use a compass.



















*Once you have one cut*, use it to mark the others, including the twelve parts "I".



















*Dry fit the whole unit* to check for square and look for any problems. With luck, you won't find any.










*Now you can* slip the pieces apart, coat the insides of the mortises with glue and permanently assemble them with a couple of screws on each corner, both sides.



















*The other way* you can assemble the legs is by laying up layer over layer all at once. They both work and are equally messy. First lay out one layer of the whole unit.










*Then lay out the second,* overlapping layer. Align them carefully and fasten with a few screws. Don't put any screws in the areas where the verticals intersect the horizontals.










*Continue with this* until the unit is built up. Then slip it apart at the corners and clean up the edges with a plane.



















*Now mark all the pieces* in the top layer "L1", remove them and set them aside. Mark the next layer's pieces "L2" and set them on top of the first. Mark "L3" and do the same. You don't have to mark "L4" but I did for clarity.



















*Re-assemble piece by piece* by first running the screws in just through the inner surface and then, after applying glue, use the screw tips to locate the piece before screwing it down tight. Once this is done you can add a few screws to get good pressure if you like. This may seem like a long way around but screwing these pieces together dry really makes alignment easier than with a layer of glue (ball bearings) in between.



















*As you glue* up the layers, you will need to screw the corners together. Use an alternating pattern on adjacent layers to avoid hitting the screws in the layer below. I used top right / bottom left and then top left / bottom right on the next layer, then back to the first orientation.










*When the dust* settles you should have two leg assemblies that look like this and will support your truck.










*That it for today*. Sorry to be so long winded but this is supposed to be a beginner build-able bench and the details might make a difference.

*Tomorrow the final assembly* of the basic plywood bench. After that we will build the vices and the finish trim.

Here's a peek.










*Thanks for looking in*

Paul


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Wow Paul this is really coming along nicely! I did notice the titebond glue and not hot hide glue or Old Brown Glue but that's OK I won't say nothing if you don't


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Its looking good Paul. I learned something on this post about screwing together dry to preclude 'Glue Slide' later. I may have to incorporate that in another project. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Hey Paul…it's coming together very nice. It may be a starter bench but it appears that it will last a lifetime or
longer due to the quality of the build. Nice job!


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


What no Hyde glue? Nice looking bench Paul may have to make one of them myself.


----------



## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


I'm a big fan of the "screw together dry/disassemble/screw together with glue" method myself.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Coming together very nicely!

Really COOL & Sturdy design!

Thank you!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


About the glue ….... no I haven't gone back to PVA, but…..
1) This blog / project is about trying to make it simple for a beginner and beginners will do better with PVA and are likely familiar and comfortable with it.
2) This is a project that doesn't require any of the special qualities of the animal glues. ie: PVA is good enough and cheaper. I will save my hide glue for projects where it has an advantage.

Thanks for the comments.


----------



## JeremyPringle (Aug 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Cool.


----------



## JR45 (Jan 26, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul
When I finish setting up my new workshop and when I finish my chevalet one of these will be next on the must do list. Excellent step by step tuition here. Many thanks
Jim


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


It's looking like a bench already. Do I detect some boat building techniques being used here? I think the screws make this build a lot easier and more accurate than it might otherwise be, but not the way an ordinary landlubber woodworker would usually approach it. We can sure learn a lot from boatbuilders like yourself Paul. Great work, great techniques and a great blog!


----------



## A10GAC (Dec 21, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Would there be any benefit to making the front of both legs flat and running a set of dog holes down the face of the non-vise leg? Or would that interfere with the operation of the wedge tail vise?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


*Hi Jim*, send me or posts pics of that new shop. Glad to hear you're settling in.

*Mike*, I'm not sure where some of my practices come from. I guess it just seemed like a good idea at the time. 

*A10*, That shouldn't interfere with the wagon vice at all. This is really a concept plan rather that a fixed one in that you can change almost any part to suit your own needs. I'm just hoping to suggest some alternative ways to get it done. That's a good idea.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Very good progress, Paul!!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Looking great Paul. I'm probably not as good with a skill saw as you, and probably not as good at dry fitting, then gluing. Any reason you clean up with the plane before gluing rather than after? I would probably get a bit of minor misalignment during the glue up and need to re-clean ;-)


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Just quicker I guess. I don't like getting glue all over my plane and I don't want to wait until it's hard. 
It's a matter of preference I guess. The point of using the screw holes to re-align when gluing is to avoid the need to re-clean and it works pretty well.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Paul, this is coming along great. And it looks pretty darn heavy duty. This will have to go to the favorites….


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Assembling the Legs*
> 
> *This one will be* quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.
> 
> ...


Looking good and strong Paul


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Gluing up all those dry fits.*

*Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.

*With the leg* assemblies all glued up, the next job is to tie them together into a rigid, rack free unit. This involves parts AC, AD, and AE in the plans. Start by marking the width of the lower stretcher cover from the work. This will be close to the dimension in the plans but almost certainly won't be exact so mark it from the work.










*Next take a measurement* from the work for the overall length with the stretchers (AE) in place.










*Mark and cut* the appropriate notches for the posts and dry assemble with #8×2" screws. Remember that the plywood won't split if you drill for them. Check that the stretchers are a tight fit between the leg bases. This is the critical fit that makes the bench rigid.










*Repeat the process* for the top, again insuring that the stretchers are tight between the top leg beams.










*Mark the spot* where the stretcher cover meets the leg …..










*... and corner round* the edges except that bit in way of the leg.










*Spread the stretchers* with glue, locate the screws in their old holes and assemble the stretcher box unit.










*Check one more time* that the fit is still tight and glue the unit in place.










*When you have repeated* the process for the top box, you should have a rigid little unit that looks like this.










*Now get out* the bottom of the torsion box top and let's cut the wagon vice hole. This involves drawing a hole only 2 1/4" wide centered inside the traced line that we made when we had it assembled. When you have multiple lines, always put ticks on the one you want to cut.










*I chose to cut* the sides of this hole by hinging the skilsaw down into the line as it gives a cleaner, straighter cut than the jig saw. If you aren't comfortable with this don't do it. Use the jig saw.










*You have to* use the jig saw for the ends anyway. When making cuts like this with a jig saw you might want to cut a little inside the line and clean it up later with a router and a guide. Jig saw blades like to wander on the bottom side of the cut. I'll cover this later.










*Now, with the outer* frame screwed and glued together and the long dog hole log installed, spread glue and screw down the bottom. (shown upside down of course)










*This is a photo* taken later, when I was assembling the top but I'm inserting it here to illustrate a point that you should always consider when building with plywood that isn't flat. You can make it work for you. I should have mentioned this before but it's something I do without even thinking about it, like checking for grain direction. In the case of these pieces, I laid them out so that the cup was up. That means that when you screw down the edges, the center is under pressure …. self clamping! There is no need to put screws in the dog strip area. Of course you can if you want or if the cup is the other way.










*Next, glue up* and install the short dog hole log and clamp in place. The holdfast is just there for alignment, not holding anything.










*Then add parts* "P" and "U" working quickly.










*Now add* the cross members and clamp everything. (Love those $2 clamps)










*Now, just to be accurate*, replace the top in it's screw holes and re-trace the wagon vice hole. It is very important that this be as accurate as possible. When removed, as you can see, it is a bit off it's old marks.










*To avoid confusion*, I made tack holes at the corners of the good line and then sanded the lines off. I then redrew only the good line and worked from it to lay out the actual hole to be cut.



















*Now you can* glue the bottom / framing unit down to the leg assembly with lots of 2" screws. The critical alignment is that the first dog hole on the left should line up with the center of the leg vice and that the plywood box should be flush with the front of the leg vice leg.










*With the hole* cut out of the top sheet with a jig saw (slightly inside the lines), you can go ahead and glue the top in place and clean up the edges. I had planned to make the facing boards out of hardwood but since there was plywood left over, I cut them out of it and dry assembled them.










*So there you have it*, two sheets of plywood put to good use. I still have some scraps left over.

There's nothing left but vices and lipstick and we'll get to that tomorrow.

*Thanks for looking in.*

Paul


----------



## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Vices and lipstick….sounds like the making of a good mystery book!!


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


That went together real nice, good planning I would say!
Looks like a chip of the big block.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


That is one so COOL little bench!

A wonderful design… Very well planned…

Very well built…

Thank you for doing such a wonderful job on it…

Now, you going to cover it with some of that expensive veneer? (LOL… kidding)...
... cheap veneer?


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Definitely a great little bench.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


i really like gloss red…


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Fantastic Paul, even after building my hardwood bench (which took far too long!) Seeing this make me want to build a second one in a weekend just to have it!


----------



## woodcox (Nov 21, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


I want one! Would be easy to box in the bottom and fill with ballast. Beach perhaps?
I'm pretty sure I have hoarded enough screws to build a few of these…...I like buying screws
Ooohh! Christmas presents!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


I like this bench so much that I am tempted to build a longer version to replace my cabinet maker's bench. I might do that eventually, but meanwhile I've learned a lot more than I knew before about working with plywood from a real pro. Thanks Paul, You are contributing a lot to LJ with your wonderful blogs. I will keep this in my favorites for future reference.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Very nice Paul.
Very very well done. Lots of good ideas in there and a compact sturdy little bench.

Steve


----------



## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


What a great bench. It's amazing that it's built of (relatively) cheap material but is as sturdy and useful as a more expensive bench. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.


----------



## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


That's a terrific looking little bench Paul … very cute! I like the 24 hour lipstick … it hangs in there when others have quit! Kinda like you Paul


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Its almost hard to believe that bench was built from two sheets of plywood. Very nice blog Paul I'm sure this will be built again from a number of people who need a small sturdy bench.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone.

*Joe*, No veneer this time. I have to keep it basic.

*Philip*, Don't count on a weekend. That's what I thought. I must have 30 hrs in this thing.

*Paul*, It doesn't have to be small. The concept expands very well.

Thanks again


----------



## HuckD (Sep 15, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


Paul, that looks great. It would probably support a truck! Thanks for the blog.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


great series--as always Paul!


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Gluing up all those dry fits.*
> 
> *Here we go* with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.
> 
> ...


This is nice work and a great tutorial.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Lipstick and Vices*

*OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.










*Here's the first* of the lipstick. Just a little Minwax Jacobean stain to break up all that bland plywood. It is followed by several coats of exterior water based Varathane. I like it as a shop fixture finish as it resists most goo and can be sanded and re-coated as needed.










*So much for* the war paint, on to the "jewellery". This is some of the beautiful Osage Orange that Gene Howe gave me a few years ago. It will become the leg vice chop.










*This stuff is hard* as nails so I'm drilling lots of holes before I go at it with the jig saw. The ShopSmith makes a great drill press with a nice big table / fence.










*In the next couple* of photos the bench starts helping me build her parts. Here I'm cutting out the holes in the chop and cleaning up with a chisel.



















*I made my log* (variation from the plans) from three pieces of 1" Osage Orange. Here I have first cut a wedge and I am using it to mark the same angle on the center piece.










*Now, with the wedge* in place and the second layer clamped up. I'm drilling and screwing the layers. The wedge is in the down position and is perfectly fitted in the slot. Notice that the center-lines of the holes are marked so I won't put any screws in their way.










*After gluing up* the log the holes are drilled. I carefully marked and cut the 3/4" holes from both sides with a forstner bit.










*A little more jewellery*. You can (and probably should) use steel pins here but since I had the lathe set up to make the wheel anyway, I made a 1/2"pin for the bottom and a 3/4'one for the top.









*
I got a little carried away* and missed taking a few photos here. The wheel is also Osage Orange and is just a disc so that's not too hard. You could even use a caster in a pinch. I also missed photos of the wagon vice parts being cut. It's not hard but will require a table saw and a band saw. To get the angles to match at the back of the wagon vice I used the off-cuts from the block with a little padding to make the glued in side parts.
Pictured are the wagon, a couple of shims, the wedge and the block.
Note: you may notice that the hole in the top has been changed. The second step shown in the last blog segment was a mistake. The front part should be about 2 1/4" wide and the rest is all 3" with the angle pieces added at the back. .... Sorry.










*Here's the wagon vice* in use clamping the trial log I built with left over plywood. Ultimately, I didn't trust the plywood glue joints to hold up so I changed it out.










*And here she is, all done !*










I would love to see more of these. It is a very strong useful bench.

*As for the challenge*, I will do an accounting to see how well I did on the costs but the materials are still just two sheets of plywood and a board. I'll post the final tally soon.

*Thanks for looking in* and please ask questions if there's some clarification I can make.

Paul


----------



## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


You certainly did a wonderful job on this and it was entertaining to follow along as you built this! Thanks for doing this.


----------



## hoss12992 (Mar 20, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Awesome!


----------



## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Great job Paul. I can see one of these in my little 10×16. Great details too.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


What *Bearpie* said.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


i knew it, ive been waiting for the bling…and it HAS ARRIVED….very good build paul, now if you will model in a red dress with red lip stick, ill be happy…


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


You hold on to that thought Bob, but just don't be holding your breath.


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Well done blog Paul. The only question I have at the moment is where you purchased the trim router for $25, and what brand/model is it?
As usual, very nice work.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Nice shopsmith! BETTER BENCH! love it…


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Sorry John, Harbor Freight I'm afraid. Not in Canada but there's one just across the line in Bellingham. Depending on the sale price of the day and whether or not you have a coupon they range from ~$23 to~$30.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


A wonderful bench Paul. One added great feature beside all the more obvious ones is that you don't have a vise handle hanging out on the the end. That can be an advantage in a small shop. I know this from actual experience.


----------



## HuckD (Sep 15, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Great build Paul. The detailed blog was an interesting read. Great photo work too.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Turned out amazing Paul. Great tutorial!


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Bravo Paul!!!! I love that osage orange but after all that cutting your next project will probably be a sharpening station.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Wow, this is really cool and it was great seeing it come together so quickly! You do amazing work Paul.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


This is really good, useful, basic woodworking, executed with great skill. Nice job on the blog and the bench.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


That's pretty slick Paul. Very well built, and explained. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## isotope (Dec 14, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Paul, 
Thank you very much for creating and sharing the design for this bench! It's got all the functionality without costing a fortune. I've decided to build one of my own. I have one quick question. Should the the front face of the top be flush with the front face of the leg?
Thanks, 
Pat


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Yes, in the sketchup you will see that there is a flat piece across the front of the glued up leg that comes flush with the facing piece around the top.
Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


It is great to see someone use Osage in a project. It is difficult to work and the dust is hazardous as well. It is as durable as any wood I have found. I remember seeing fence post of this wood that had been put in by slave labor and the wood was still in use. You have chosen a perfect use for this wood. Very nice as always.


----------



## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Great blog and great job.
Thank you Paul.


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


You mentioned a wheel. But I don't see a wheel or its function in the wagon vise. I think the clamping pressure between the dogs is provided by the wedge? There's no worm screw to which a wheel would attach to drive the block. What am I missing? I'm dazed and confused by this one itty bitty thing right at the end. I really want to build this bench, or make my own SU design based on it. The bench I currently have I built some five years ago and is much better-suited as an assembly table - way too heavy and big to be portable (the top is *three *72×28 sheets of MDF, surrounded by poplar 1x). Solid as a rock. Only has a face vise and I really want a wagon/tail vise of some sort and…more space in my lab.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Last picture Mark. The wheel is at the bottom of the leg vice chop. (Yes, we Canadians spell it "vice")


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Lipstick and Vices*
> 
> *OK, time to put* some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.
> 
> ...


Yeah. I was so bent on finding a wheel powering the wagon that I didn't think outside the vise. And, I'm fluent in Canadian.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Final Accounting and a Few Details*

*At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.

So let's see how I did.

*Cost of materials:*

- 2 Sheets of 3/4" plywood (sanded) .......................... ~ $75
- 9 FBM of solid hardwood …. ~ $5/ FBM …................ ~ $45
- Glue, screws, threaded rod, etc. .............................. ~ $20
- Finish …............................................................... ~ $10
- Casters ….............................................................. ~ $8

Total…...............................................................................................................................~$158

*Tools used on the basic bench:* I'll assume that you buy really cheap stuff like I used here 
and know how to find a HF store.

- Skilsaw …............................................................. ~$35
- Drill …..................................................................~ $15
- Router …...............................................................~ $30
- Ruler, square …...................................................... ~$10
- Tape measure …..................................................... ~ Free
- Clamps ….............................................................. ~ $10 (4 at $2 and 2 at $1)
- Jigsaw ….............................................................. ~ $20 
- Forstner bit set …...................................................~ $20
- Router bit set …..................................................... ~ $20
- Hand plane …....................................................... ~ $10
- Hammer ….............................................................. ~$5
- Pencil, chip brush, whatever …................................. ~ $2

Total….................................................................................................................................~$177

*Tools used for the vices :*

Lathe, Bandsaw, Table Saw, Drill Press …(Older ShopSmith with bandsaw on Craigslist or Ebay)....... ~ $500

Grand Total …...................................................................................................................... ~ $835

*Of course if you have* a few basic tools and a friend with a ShopSmith the bench costs ~ $150. If you have a bit of hardwood lying around and get a deal on plywood it could cost as little as $60 to $70.

*That takes care of the bucks*, now what do you get for bang?

This is a heavy (for its size) rigid, solid bench that will last a very long time.
It has a good functional leg vice and a good functional wagon vice.
It has dog holes and dogs for use with the vices or with holdfasts (Gramercy ~ $40)
It is easily moved out of the way to let the car back in the garage.

*Here are a few* detail photos that show a couple of tweaks and a jig.

*Here is the leg vice* raised up on a 1/4" shim being used against a bench dog.










*This one shows* a rebate I made for the wheel so the leg can come flush against the bench leg. You can also see the caster wedges.










*Here is the leg vice* tight against the bench. The lower pin is stored in a hole behind the leg.









*
This one shows* my veneer cutting jig being secured to the bench by the holdfasts.









That's a wrap. I hope someone can use this.

*Thanks for looking in.*

Paul


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Mighty fine! I'm sure several new woodworkers will benefit from this as well as the earlier blog. Thanks for your help.


----------



## JeremyPringle (Aug 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


That's really cool.

What's the veneer saw?


----------



## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul. Really enjoyed the blog. Well done.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Money and time well invested and especially in your hands, my friend!!!!................Jim


----------



## MontanaBob (Jan 19, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Outstanding build there…. I really enjoyed following this on your blog… Bob


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Well done Paul and all the little details will be of help to many that will build this bench.
Another great project .


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


COOL record…

COOL Tips on using it…
... love the way you raised the Leg Vise 1/4"... So COOL!

Thank you!


----------



## truenorth (Nov 21, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done! If my shop wasnt a dining table factory I'd build one of these for sure! (Need to lay out table tops) specially since I bought 2 used shopsmiths today!


----------



## jamesbond007 (Jan 3, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Been following you Paul and it is a great design. Especially the mobility. A must for someone with a small garage shop.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


You are too Amazing!


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul, I say you have absolutely met your objective with this build. Thanks for sharing with all of us! It is both entertaining and informative, and I look forward to seeing many more pictures of this bench in use!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


A very innovative and inexpensive bench that can handle just about every task a woodworker could ask of it. I especially admire those wedge driven vises, nothing less than brilliant. I just hope enough LJ members don't miss this one when they start thinking about building themselves a decent bench. This bench could have also have been produced and sold in kit form for a very reasonable price. As usual you are one of, or quite possibly, the greatest contributor to LJ Paul.


----------



## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Wow. I really need to build one to replace that floppy light weight cheapie from HF that sits in my shop. 
Say, what does FBM stand for?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Sorry, it stands for foot board measure or in common language board feet. 
Maybe it's a Canadian term ????


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Really great project Paul. Much better than a solid core door on sawhorses.

I especially like the wedge vise. You could easily spend all your money on a vise kit and still not have a bench!


----------



## Patricelejeune (Feb 21, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Nice project.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Fun to see your budget, a new bench of the shelf in a fair quality:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=51104&cat=1,41637
So yes one would have all the tools as a bonus the way you put it.
I got my work bench used for 50 US but had to give it love.
I also love your wedge vices.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone.

Jeremy, the saw is from Gramercy Tools. I reviewed it here.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Good work and fine documentation of a fine looking, very functional, and low cost bench


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## Ndekens (Sep 28, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


Paul, This is really cool! I was actually in the middle of coming up with a cheap scaled down version of your V8 bench to build guitars on and it looks like you beat me too it! Very nice!

How is the weight of this bench? is it pretty solid when planing?

Again amazing concept and design!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


My rough rule is that plywood is about 100 lbs per inch and this bench is two sheets of 3/4" so that's about 150 lbs. Add a bit for the hardwood and I'd say it's around 160 -170 lbs total. It is a good stable workplace but would likely require some ballast for heavy planing.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


This came out great Paul! Very interesting and functional design.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Final Accounting and a Few Details*
> 
> *At the outset* of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.
> 
> ...


just finished reading this blog series. very cool build


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