# Another view on air compressor setup



## dannyfixit (Mar 9, 2011)

I recently bought a used 60gal 5hp upright compressor and needed to configure into my small shop. It had some fittings on it along with a small regulator and water separator already. Two fittings were unregulated air and one regulated. Apparently they used the unreg fittings for like blowing air. Here is the setup for your reference and consideration for your setup.



















Once I ran the 240v power to it, I then decided how to plumb this into the shop. After viewing tons of compressor installations on Lumberjocks, Youtube, and elsewhere, I decided to put in a bit extra piping help remove water from my air since I know the shop air is more humid. The lines drop down from the pressure switch area and loop back up as shown in the photos. A ball valve at the bottom will let me drain water when need. Since space is small, I didn't have to run very far. So to avoid all the discussions of PVC vs Iron vs PEX vs whatever piping, I chose to just plug in a 25ft length of rubber air hose for the run into the shop. When it got to a centralized location where I mostly will need air, I built a regulated manifold with a couple connection fittings.










It has regulator/filter there for easy pressure setting. The manifold is mounted overhead for convenience.

I mounted the tank on vibration pads which seems to help a lot. It sets up on its own platform off the floor, mostly for leveling and securing but I think it helps with vibration. Although its on its own circuit, I left it still have a plug so I can unplug as needed for service for that extra level of safety. Since this is a used unit, I looked and tested its safety features. The safety valve looked bit gummy, so replace it with a new one that I know will work. The main tank pressure gauge gave me concern that it was not working plus it had a small face. Replaced it with bigger. Then the pressure switch (Square D) looked good. Checked out and cleaned the contacts (not pitted). Adjusted the shutoff pressure and tested to make certain it did work. Lastly, I got rid of the small junky little drain valve on the bottom of the tank and put in brass el and piping plus the ball valve so its easy to get to the drain.

All the effort added more to the costs of the used unit, but its ready to do my tasks and should last me for my duration.


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## FancyShoes (Aug 31, 2014)

Nice set up. I have seen people mount their air compressors outside to save floor space inside the shop.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> Nice set up. I have seen people mount their air compressors outside to save floor space inside the shop.
> 
> - FancyShoes


Also to help reduce the noise in the shop 8^)

Good call on the bottom drain valve Danny. I have a similar compressor and always hated groping through the spider webs to try and turn the always stubborn tank drain valve. 
Like you, I replaced it with a section of copper line to a remote ball valve.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

If that is truly a 5HP compressor, which I doubt that it is, it should not be on that cord and plug. The plug and outlet you are using is most likely only rated to 2HP max.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Same air compressor I have.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

Good call on adding the dropper leg and ball valve to your piping. I used them all around the plant air systems that I designed to drain the condensate out of the piping. If you have not already done so, be sure your piping legs slope towards your valve slightly so the condensate will accumulate at the valve and you can drain it out.


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## dannyfixit (Mar 9, 2011)

> If that is truly a 5HP compressor, which I doubt that it is, it should not be on that cord and plug. The plug and outlet you are using is most likely only rated to 2HP max.
> 
> - WhyMe


The outlet is rated for 20amp, based upon the manufacturer's tag on the compressor. What you can't see is that the plug is for 230v, as required by the motor.


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