# I can't take my miter saw blade off



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

So at work we have a miter saw that is approx 13-14 months old and gets pretty regular use (50 or so cuts a week). Finally decided today that we should change the blade for the first time. Problem is that I can't get the bolt loose. Bolt is circular on the outside with a hex insert. I've got the original manual and allen keys and it says press the motor lock button and turn clockwise. I do all that and with all my might the bolt doesn't budge. I put a little air tool oil on it, but it really didn't work too well. Gonna try to use some WD40 tomorrow to free it up, but I was wondering if anyone else had any suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## Kreegan (Jul 10, 2012)

Does the blade move when you push the motor lock? If not and it's just that the bolt is frozen, some WD-40 should help. One weird thing I've done to unfreeze stuck bolts is pour some coke on it. Perhaps some of that blade cleaner stuff they sell at Rockler.

Rich


----------



## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

This is going to make me sound like an ass so please do not interpret this as an attempt to do so. Righty tighty - Lefty Loosey is so engrained in me that it took me a few minutes to understand that clockwise means to turn the bolt like I am tightening it. The first time I changed my miter saw blade, I kept trying to loosen the bolt the traditional way. Even though I read the instructions. Once I really started loosening it by turning clockwise, it came off with no problem.


----------



## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Maybe the miter saw is disposable? Ever thought of that? Hmm?


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

David I totally understand your trying to help. But yes I did try turning it clockwise (assuming clockwise when you are facing the blade) and when that didn't free it I tried going the other way to no avail.

Rich do you mean coca cola? That seems super counterintuitive. I could understand if your trying to do a bolt on something you don't care about, but on a saw that you don't own feel like even if it did free it up it would ultimately gum up, no?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

This might take three hands,use a tight fitting box wrench and tap the end of the wrench with a hammer or carvers mallet to move in the loosening direction.Sorry for repeating the same theme but turning the bolt clock wise sounds like tightening?


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I tried doing that best I could. Unfortunately it is a round bolt on the outside so there is nothing for the box wrench to fit onto. The inner part of the bolt is a hex which if you start pounding on it torques a bit in the spot and feels like its starting to slip and round out the inside of the bolt


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

A small torch with a pin flame can heat it enough to loosen it. You don't need to turn it red so no oxi/Ac. One of those hand held will do nicely. Cut the flame way down and dont melt anything. 
Sounds like my DeWalt. That star wrench fit in the middle of the nut that holds the blade and you cant get enough torque from the center as you can with a box wrench.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Try an impact socket driver with the correct size hex in it. Tap, tap, tap it with a hammer as you turn it with your other hand.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I tried two visegrips on a miter I once had. one on the blade set so the blade wouldn't move. Second one on the bolt, with enough room to smack the visegrip with a ball pean hammer. Tried each way, when the bolt started to move, no more smacking the pliers. Find a good flat or two on the bolt head to lock onto. Straight jaw visegrips work better.


----------



## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

You don't mention the brand. I do think that most stationery saws are "reverse thread" (in fact I think that question is what caused me to find this site in trying to change a blade on a Dewalt). If I'm correct, you have managed to tighten it quite well!

scrap block of wood to catch the teeth and then try going the other way. HD sells sets of both hex and TORX sockets in both SAE and metric sizes that fit a 3/8" ratchet (a hell of a lot easier than dealing with those little wrenches you get).


----------



## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

My miter saw had a left hand threaded screw on it.


----------



## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Normally a saw arbor nut or bolt tightens the way the blade spins, so it can't loosen while in operation. Look at blade direction and go the opposite way to loosen it.


----------



## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Slip a metal tube over the allen key for more leverage, no metal tube? a ring spanner will do. The spindle locks works the way it should?


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

it is this Skil= brand saw from Lowe's. According to the manual it says that it should loosen by turning clockwies which would be the same way the blade spins. Regardless it doesn't work. Maybe I'll throw a hex insert bit into my 18v dewalt and see if that does the trick. Yet another reason why I really need to invest in a impact driver.


----------



## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Coke (Coca~Cola) might just work. I knew it was good for getting bugs off a windshield and I heard they use it at the maintenance department at Coca~Cola as an engine degreaser, so it has other uses that go beyond decaying your teeth, making you fat, and contributing to the development of diabetes.

But, the big clue to me is the fact that I have a machine in my jewelry business called a magnetic burnisher. It spins jewelry castings in a tub of polished steel shot having the effect of polishing them. The problem was that I only use it maybe one a week and while it was sitting unused the shot would develop a thin coating of oxide (like a pre-rust) that would turn the gold jewelry gray instead of polishing it. I tried all kinds of shot and additives that were supposed to fix the problem; none worked. I was about to give up on this $1200 machine when a jeweler friend asked me if I tried Coke. I looked at him like he was crazy, but he insisted it would solve my problem. Well, I tried it and voila, perfect polished castings. The theory is that the Phosphoric Acid in Coca~Cola removes the rust. I just know it works.

So, since I can confirm that Coca~Cola is a proven rust remover, maybe that is how it would help you get your saw blade loose.


----------



## Howie (May 25, 2010)

CocaCola is also good for indigestion and soaking brass hardware to clean it up.

As far as the blade goes I'd try PB Blaster ,turn it opposite of the way the blade turns.


----------



## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

the way things are built I think any penetrating oil is a waste of time (would be different if it was old and rusty) and only makes a mess. put a block of wood under the teeth and ease it the other way. nothing to lose at this point (and BTW those socket sets for Hex and TORX do make a difference!!! use whatever tools you have you get a lot more leverage and "knuckle clearance").

they run about $15 per set I think…but if Hex you need to figure out whether SAE or metric. TORX seems to be all metric.


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Have you considered just sending the whole miter saw to the sharpener?


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

hahaha brandon that made me LOL, Jonathan you'd better update your list


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I think Brandon meant send it to the mortician… *;-)


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Get yourself an impact gun and the proper size bit , and be done with it. : )

Pour the Coke into the toilet !


----------



## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

*ACEITE WD-40 Y GOLPE CON UN MARTILLO
ACEITE WD-40 Y OTRO GOLPE CON UN MARTILLO
ACEITE WD-40 Y OTRO GOLPE CON UN MARTILLO
Y SUJETA LA TUERCA HEXAGONAL CON UNA LLAVE INGLESA
O UN CRICKET DE AUTOMÓVIL QUE TENGA UN MANGO LARGO
Y DEJA EL ASUNTO POR UN DÍA Y VUELTA A PROBAR
Y CUANDO CAMBIES LA HOJA ENGRASA TODO CON GRASA VERDE
PARA EJES, COMO PARA NO RENEGAR
LA PRÓXIMA VEZ QUE CAMBIES DE NUEVO LA HOJA *


----------



## GerryB (May 1, 2011)

Tests have shown that the very best penetrating fluid is 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Use with care, it is flammable!


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

a bit of water displacement test number forty and some elbow grease along with the allen key that came with the saw did the trick. thanks everyone for your help


----------



## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Allen keys that come with tools don't give you enough leverage usually - a large t-handled set or some 3/8 hex sockets are nice to have around.


----------



## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Jonathan, you left out mixing the coke with bourbon and forgetting about the D*&^ blade! (g)


----------



## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

come on! put some muscle into it!!! ; )


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Be careful Howie,... ice cubes only!

*;-)*


----------



## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

it's not that old of a machine so I doubt rust is an issue and the penetrating oils/sodas are a waste of time. my guess is he torqued it down real good and now has to un-torque it equally good. and as a reminder, I don't think any saw blade needs to be "cranked"...snug is enough.


----------



## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Heat and impact. Or just impact. I had the same problem with my dads craftsman miter saw when he finally decided to change the blade after 8 years. It took about 15 seconds with my impact gun. Have someone else hold the arbor lock so you can get good leverage.

Just remember to use the forward setting on the impact driver. Reverse will tighten it. If all else fails, use the gun in reverse to break the surface tension. Most impact guns (pneumatic anyway) have much more torque in reverse. Mine will apply about 1300 ft/lbs in reverse, but only about 300 ft/lbs in forward.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I would chuck an allen key in a cordless impact driver. They are amazing at freeing stuck bolts.


----------



## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

we are all pacing the waiting room! impact is amazing isn't it? needed to remove the rear clip on a 38 year old CubCadet. after a week of heat/penetrating oil, I had the grinder and drill bits out but figured I would try the impact (impact can snap bolts but like I said, they were going to be toast anyway and I had my safety glasses on). The first one popped out just looking at the trigger I think (ok…I made that part up but it didn't take much more than that)...the rest followed quickly


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

DONT heat the bolt! it can take the temper out of it and then the hex will strip out. Now you will have a real mess on your hands. blade on the left side left hand thread, clockwise off. blade on the right side right hand thread counterclockwise off! little late but it may help someone remember.


----------



## Eventmoose (Oct 21, 2021)

So I had the same situation my thinking i keep thinking that if you loosen opiset of the teeth striped it out so I got an allen head remove kit striped it to I finely got a grinder used it took the head off now I have to order the bolt man will I ever get my project done but the way just bought the saw


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

This is a 9-year-old thread.


----------



## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

OK, so Coke contains phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid combines with "rust" to form a black iron oxide. You can buy rust treatment or even just phosphoric acid (cheaper than coke) to do the same thing. I doubt it will loosen the bolt in this situation.

A better solution would be PB Blaster, a penetrating oil. Follow instructions on can.

Because the blade spins clockwise the thread on the bolt is almost certainly left hand thread so to loosen it go counter clockwise.

There are inexpensive hand held impact wrenches that work quite well in these situations. The sell for $15 to $25 and you can use 1/4", 3/8" and some 1/2" drives tools. here is one source…. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769059?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ovevYvc8wIVQgnnCh3kZAbbEAQYAyABEgJF1_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Finally, when you put the bolt back in I would coat it with an anti seize compound, commonly used in auto mechanical work.


----------



## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

> This is a 9-year-old thread.
> 
> - Ocelot


I usually get sucked into these old threads but not this time, that saw is in the dumpster by now I would guess


----------



## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

> This is a 9-year-old thread.
> 
> - Ocelot
> 
> ...


 Good catch, But someone might learn something from our delayed responses.


----------



## JimKing201 (Aug 18, 2008)

LesB, exactly! Thats why a lot of us are here. We know we dont know everything, and old posts help us out!


----------

