# Dog hole jig?



## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

So all I have is a 20v hand drill and I need to make some dog holes in my 2 1/2 inch top.

What jigs or guides did you all use? Where can I get it or what are the details to build my own?

Also what bit would you suggest?


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

The cheapest route would be a hard block of 2" thick maple for the guide block and a cheap, conventional twist drill modified to a brad point. I use lots of maple for drilling jigs that only need to last for a few hundred holes.

Glue the maple to a strip of plywood then drill two 3/4" holes on a drill press if you can get access to one. One goes into the maple and the second goes through the plywood at the proper spacing away from the first hole. That's used in conjunction with a dowel for spacing the holes evenly.

Modifying the drill bit is trickier and unfortunately, I can't describe that process in writing. It requires a standard bench grinder to do and could be time-consuming with a 3/4" bit. After modifying the bit, the flutes are dulled to minimize the chance of damage to the drilling jig.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

What he said and maybe clamping a sacrificial piece at the bottom of your bench below the hole to prevent blow out.


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

I took a 3×5x2" block of wood and scribed the center lines all around all the sides. Then I drilled a 3/4" hole through it with a router clamped down to ensure it was square to the faces. If you have access to a drill press, or know anyone who could do that part for you then it'd be ideal.

I could then mark out the lines for where I wanted dog holes on the bench top, align the block with the lines and clamp it down.

I used a brace and 3/4" bit, so that isn't any help to you but the jig worked just fine to keep me plumb.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

How about making a jig similar to this. Follow JAAune's advice and drill a row at a time.
I was bored so I thought I would whip this out. I saw something like this where a router was used…sorta like drilling shelf pin holes. You could do the same with a larger hole for the guide bushing to fit.









Hope this helps.
Mike


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## mramseyISU (Mar 3, 2014)

You could always try this too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=72602&cat=51&ap=1


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

I see no need to worry about exact placement of the holes like you would for shelf pins. The issue is drilling holes that are perpendicular to the bench. A thick board with a v-notch cut in the end will do the job just fine. Or a thick board with a hole made in a drill press if you have access to one.
A degree or two out of square is not going to affect either bench dogs or holdfasts.
Check out http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=309


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

"I see no need to worry about exact placement of the holes like you would for shelf pins."

Yeah, but it makes 'em look purty!


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

Thank you all for the help in this.


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

While I haven't done it myself, I understand that a lot of people use a plunge router for dog holes. Do you have a plunge router?


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## Splinter12 (Aug 10, 2012)

I did that not to long ago,

http://lumberjocks.com/Splinter12/blog/39641


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

I do not have a plunge router


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Exact placement isn't necessary but I find it's good to be precise. Sooner or later, you'll probably get the bright idea to build a jig that fits into the holes and if the spacing is off, that won't work.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

A piece of pipe mounted on a pipe flange will give you holes straight enough to call them perpendicular.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

After you are about 1" down in the bench you won't need the jig,the bench will hold the drill straight.


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

That is true. However starting the drill plumb for that first inch is crucial. If you're a few degrees off then once you're an inch down you're pooched. Hence his request for a jig.

I'm pretty good about drilling plumb with a brace unassisted. I made a jig for the bench dog job because there are so many holes and having them on a bit of an angle will make it so a holdfast won't grip as strong in the direction the hole is canted toward. Not to mention like JAAune said, if you want to make something that drops into two or more dog holes (like a planing stop or batten) then if they aren't all in the same vertical plane it won't work to be interchangable.

If you were in the same country I'd just mail you my block of wood. Heck, if you want to pay international shipping for a block of wood with a hole in it, it's yours. Probably there's someone in your state with a drill press or a router that can hook you up though.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

I learned that my workcenter has a standing still press. Not sure if it has any bits yet. I will find out tomorrow.


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

Fantastic. In a drill press even a spade bit will bore an acceptable hole. Forstners will make a cleaner one, but unless they have one already there I wouldn't go out and buy one. Not if you don't have a drill press of your own to make use of it in later on anyway.

Once you have your guide block made up square and plumb then you can use a brad point in your hand drill to get a nice dog hole.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

Awesome. Will any spade bit fit in a drill press just incase my workcenter doesn't have one.


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## Rayne (Mar 9, 2014)

Here's my setup. I just used a cheap HF drill guide, spade bit going slow initially, angled towards the vise by 3 degrees, and used one bench dog to secure it to a previous hole while I continue down the line. The bottom will blow out with a spade, so what I did was just as I penetrated the bottom, I stopped and went back with a forstner underneath to clean out the rest of the hole. Worked great for the entire bench.


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

> Awesome. Will any spade bit fit in a drill press just incase my workcenter doesn t have one.
> 
> - LucasWoods


Pretty much yes. Most spade bits have a 1/4" hex shank. Often it doesn't hurt to stone the spurs on them. They never as sharp as they could be out of the box. Spade bits aren't made for precision work, but with very sharp spurs they'll do a decent job, especially in softwoods. You're shooting for a jig so the surface finish in the hole isn't a priority as much as being plumb to the block.

Make sure to have a scrap of wood under the jig block to prevent blowout on the back side.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

Everyone talks about blowout and all that but it is the bottom of my bench which I will never look at. Is there a reason I am missing why everyone is so concerned about blowout? My bench is like a $90 bench. I guess I could see it if I spent like $500 on it…


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

I guess just because it's easily preventable. Either a scrap block or come from both sides. If you're just going to use dogs, then I guess it doesn't matter really. If you use holdfasts then that bottom lip of the hole is the bearing surface for the bottom of the holdfast shank. If it's already splitting from the blowout, having the holdfast cam against it might make it split more ?

It's probably not that critical in reality. As you say, it's your bench you can do what you'd like. It would bug me. Plus it's good practice for when you're making something that appearance does count on.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

True


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

I'm in the process of putting in dog holes too….I bought a version of the drill guide that Rayne has and was planning a similar procedure…...can someone clarify for Lucas and I…..I have a 3/4 forstner, spade bits, and an Irwin speed bit…..do we really need a brad point bit? I am not sure what Lucas has for a top but mine is Maple and like his, 2 1/2". Sorry to rob your post, Lucas.
Mike


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

I just found a great video that Richard Maguire has of how he guides a bit for drilling dog holes.




It's fantastic in that you don't need to have a plumb drill to start off. Very easy to make and use.

No, you don't need a brad point. Any of those bits will drill a 3/4" hole. The only difference will be the surface finish inside the hole, and how effectively they clear chips. Of those you have I'd go with the forstner.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

It's ok mike those are good questions. I only have spade bits ATM


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

Will a forstner bit survive drilling 16 to 20 holes in Maple? Or should we switch to a speedbore/spade after the hole is 1/4 to 1/2 deep?
Mike


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## mramseyISU (Mar 3, 2014)

I'd go with the spade bit if it was me doing all the drilling. I started out using a forstner bit on my bench and about 3 holes in I'd switched it out for the spade bit.


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

I use a Forstner for the first half inch and then switch to a spade bit


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

I drilled 28 dogholes yesterday into a 2 1/2 Maple top. I started out with the forstner as mentioned. It labored to say the least. I was using an old corded drill, and the bit was going too fast, so I switched to cordless and slowed it down and added some wax to the bit. It went much easier. I only plunged the forstner bit about an inch and finished with a spade bit. The difference in the cut between the two bits was almost too close to tell. I tried just the Spade bit a couple times. It was on a drill with a bubble level on the end. I have to tell you, I could not tell those holes from the forstner bit…..so my point to Lucas is I think you will be just fine with a spade bit. Make sure to lay it all out though, I caught myself a couple of times before I made a mistake, even with a template. It is a little hard on the bottom of the bench, and I would turn the drill off and pull the bit out, so it didn't make the hole oblong as it is spinning….but it will work.
Thanks
Mike


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Good to know. Thanks Mike.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

Thank you I am hopefully going to drill my holes soon!


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

When it comes to blowout: It may be 90$ bench, but it may be one of those thing down the road that you wish you would've taken that extra step to make it cleaner, better job. It's good to get in the habit of doing it.


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## LucasWoods (Oct 1, 2014)

I hear you fridge I am going to do it I have a 1 X 10 piece of poplar that is long enough so I can clamp it to the bottom of my bench to prevent the blowout.


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