# Jefferson's bookstand--a total geekgasm



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Hi everyone. I have seen Roy Underhill build this, but he didn't give dimensions. I'm stuck on the swiveling bit-i'd like to make it without lazy susan hardware. Anyone have any plans/ideas?


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I saw that too. I don't remember if he showed how it swiveled or not. I wuold be the top just sets onto a dowel pin that is sticking up out of the base.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

If yoiu look closely, you can see a little bit of what looks to be the dowel pin in the center of teh base. I would bet the support is at the top and the bottom end is stablizes. Go here http://www.monticellocatalog.org/110000.html you'll see better what I mean.


----------



## Waldschrat (Dec 29, 2008)

topamaxsurvivor has a good point…. I looked at the pic he linked. Dave R is also on a good track with the plastic piece…. I have utilized this with folding tables out of wood and it works great. I think that the dowel or some sort of metal turning/ball bearing hardware is used. But… i think you could do this also very simply "drilling" holes with a "halfround" sort of router bit and make holes in a cirular pattern (six holes maybe) and using a half round bit will leave the bottom of the hole semi-circular. You can buy steel balls or marbles (marbles from a toy store for childern are cheap) and put these in the holes. Then in the middle, drill a hole through both pieces, and in the top piece, screw in a metal thread piece, one that accecpts a machine screw that you can sink flush with the bottom of the bottom piece. Put you screw in and tighten it just enough so it turnes easily but does not "wobble". a drop of thread locker or whit glue will work to keep the screw from loosening.

This type of system works really well… I have made a turning "sausage buffet" platter out of ash wood. The bottom was out of MDF. It still works well.


----------



## spanky (Jan 25, 2009)

Glad to see someone else is trying to find dimensions for this project. I posted on this same subject last week. Roy's show gave no dimesions, and only covered the book stand portions, with nothing on the base. I contacted PBS in North Carolina which was a waste of time. I e-mailed Roy and have had no reply in the last month. I finally e-mailed Monticello's research library. They stated in their reply that they are looking and will get back to me if they find any plans for the bookstand. I'll let you know if I hear anything.


----------



## rwyoung (Nov 22, 2008)

He does give dimensions, just not complete ones. Each of the "faces" is 9×12. From that you get a 12×12 cube and that means the top support is probably 12×12. What isn't 100% clear is if these are only for his version or also reflect those of the original.

You can see too in the video a little bit about the rotation mechanism. It looks like a single dowel through the middle with a large washer at the top. There was too much shadow to see if there was a large washer at the bottom below the stand but I'd imagine so. And it isn't completely clear how those washers are fixed to the central support. My first guess would be something like a cotter pin (wooden of course).

The idea of making something like a needle bearing but with a blunt end like ball bearing or marble sounds good too.

Knowing the stands are 9×12 one could guess at the size of the moulding used to keep the book from sliding off. Looks like it might be around 10" to 10-1/2" long and maybe a little more than 1" wide and 3/4" to 5/8" thick. Depends on what you have around for moulding profiles as to what would look "right".


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

It wouldn't surprise me if the top of the center dowel is rounded over like the end of a shovel handle and there is a corresponding depression for the turning part to set on it. They probably used an oiled leter for a bearing back in the 1700's or maybe poured babbit. That shouldn't be too hard to duplicate form the picture using any dimensions you want. I thought about making one, but I don't know what I'd do with it ;-)) Too far behind on all me other projects anyway !! ;-(


----------



## woodbutcher (Dec 29, 2006)

naomi weiss,
I would just turn a wooden bearing and wax it. I've got a sewing chest I built in my projects that shows the hidden compartment and I just turned a ring and waxed it. Turns beautifully and with quite a bit of weight on it as well. Have a look/see, I hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis


----------



## davidpettinger (Aug 21, 2009)

Topamax is right. It is a version of a Chippendale Birdcage Pivot. It was originally designed for a tilt top table that also would pivot. The bookstand uses the cage to support the shelves and the center dowel is the pivot point. I would go to my public library and see a couple of furniture books and make some reference copies for the shop.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Wow-everyone has been amazing with feedback. What i was hung up on (i feel silly saying this) is which part spins? I think (from the comments and thinking more) that the column is stationary and the stand swivels around it?

The reason i wanted to make it the old-fashioned way is because in Israel, believe it or not, it is impossible to purchase lazy susan bearings!!! We invented the CAT Scan, the Intel chip, Instant message, etc., but lazy susan bearings and bedbolts? We scratch out heads, puzzled. It's frustrating, to say the least. I had tried finding flanges (same blank look), and i was on my own. This is not the most woodworker-friendly country. Sigh…Union Label, that's also why the public library idea is out, as well; it's a great idea, and if i were in cleveland, i would get out underhill's book that probably has the plan, but the resources in America are *incredible*-especially the library system in cleveland…

Anyway, I got my hands on some ridiculous ball bearings (photo to come) for about the equivalent of $4. My mother kindly went to woodcraft and picked me up some LS ball bearings for $1.50! Incredible! My hardware arrives with a friend in a few days.

But meanwhile, i don't have a plan! I mean, i have basic dimensions, but i suppose it's time to suck it up and be a real woodworker and figure it out! ;-)

I think i can take out the central column because of the bearings…right? And that would perhaps enable the user to store books inside the cube as well…

BTW-is it rash to consider the breadboard ends a waste of time? I was thinking of using pine boards (that's the only wood i can touch out here. Hard wood is EXPENSIVE, and i am a student, and a complete novice at woodworking, so for now, it's my only material) and just bevelling the sides on my router table…

Woodbutcher-i haven't had the pleasure of turning (yet) but i do look forward to it-i have a book called router magic and i think there's a plan to make your router into a lathe (does that sound scary?).

Anyway, maybe i will post my progress to keep everyone up to date. I really appreciate everyone's time and effort in reading and writing responses!


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

wow, i totally forgot about jeffersons inventions. what a cool project to build. it'll look sweet in my library.

anyway, with regard to your question, naomi, i'd bet that the column is stationary and the stand swivels around it. it would be much easier to maintain stability that way.

however, i wonder if the top and bottom are fixed together or if you can just slide the top off the column/dowel and separate them completely. there's really no need *TO* keep them together, and that would only add more friction points. I'd say: rounded top of dowel in a squared-bottom round hole in the top would be smoothest operating.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Here are some weird bearings i managed to find at the hardware store:

Any idea what they're for? I bought the one on the left…

This is a massive lazy susan i saw in a shop, and i peeked under, and saw that it's an axle with 2 castors or wheels underneath…perhaps an alternative?


----------



## rwyoung (Nov 22, 2008)

I think it was suggested above, but consider something more like a needle bearing than a ball-bearing-in-a-race to support the spinning.

The center post would be fixed. At the top of the post is a metal wear plate with a small dimple (pointing down). In that dimple would ride the "needle". The needle in this case could be an acor cap nut, the needle in a needle bearing isn't always sharp.

To keep the assembly from wobbling, you will need to find a way of guiding the base in a circle. A collar on the shaft or guides might work.

Just some things to think about.


----------



## woodbutcher (Dec 29, 2006)

naomi weiss,
Try this since you are into the bearing thing. Rout a concave circle using a core box bit 1/2 the depth of some copper tubing, whichever diameter you can find to use.Now bend the copper tubing into a circle and epoxy into this groove you routed. Drill a flat bottomed hole, using a forstner style bit 1/2 the depth of the base wood thickness, 3/8" in diameter in the center of the base. Insert an aluminum rod that is 3/8" diameter and flat on one end (this is the base end) and rounded or convex on the other end (this is the top plate side). Drill a convex hole in the center of the plate 1/2 the thickness of top plate. Liberally wax the copper tubing and place the top plate down on the aluminum centering pin and spin the top plate! Build the rest of your bookstand on this top plate.Knowing that you are limited in what you can access in materials, this should work fine since you can't turn a bearing surface on the bottom plate. Hope this will help.

Sincerely,
Ken


----------



## spanky (Jan 25, 2009)

naomi weiss,

I am currently working on this same project and have completed the first assembly of the rotating frame. This frame is constructed of two 10.5" x 10.5" x 3/4" separated by four 9" x 2" x 3/4" pillars. The base will be 12" square x 3/4" with a 1 1/4" axle shaft through the center, 9.250" high. I will inset a glass marble in the top end of the shaft to be the bearing surface. I will install a piece of sheet brass in the top mateing hole that will bear against the marble.

I hope this will be of some asistance to you and others.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

A snug fit around teh center dowel on the bottom of the rotating cube should suffice for anti-wobble.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Thanks, Spanky. Some of the description left me with some questions [but that's because i am a remedial woodworker! ;-)]
So, i made this pathetic sketchup drawing


So, Dave-it looks like i could use some Sketchup pointers! I watched some tutorials-on Sketchup for woodworkers-and they were great. I just have some basic questions-like automatically centring objects, etc. But is suppose for a crude rendering it kind of does the trick. It also reminds me how simple the project is (i tend to make simple things complex. could be a woman thing…). Anyway, thanks everyone for looking and commenting! Keep 'em coming (please)!


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Wow, seeing the post with the SU drawing makes me embarrassed-there are so many nicely drawn sketches on this site! Ah, well, it will be a marker to gauge my progress ;-)


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Cheers, Dave! I am having such a silly basic problem-drawing a 10.5 square evenly within a 12 square! I am also realising that though the frame is smaller, there is another piece of wood on the top of the frame that gives the overhang, and it's from there that the four easel boards are suspended. Perhaps it's not so simple after all!


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

im sure Dave will get to it, but i can help you right away with the first issue. Use the "Offset" tool. it's on the large toolbar set, or the modification bar. Say you draw the 12" square first. You then click the Offset button, click the face of the square surface, then move the cursor to the right place (or input the exact offset distance - in this case 0.75") to get a 10.5" square. It will work for any geometry.

If you havent discovered it yet, using the "instructor" helps you learn how to use the tools. Of course, discovering the tools themselves is a different matter.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Dave-it's amazing! Thanks! I decided not to run to the place to order the wood today (prob smart).
Aaron, thanks! I knew it was .75…i don't know why i doubt my ability to do simple maths and then make it harder! Bah!
I was watching tutorials about the guidelines but i couldn't seem to get them…
I have made components in the past, but how do you access them again? Do you have to save them as templates?


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

dave: huh. you're right! i only tried it with 2D surfaces and just assumed it would work in 3D. it obviously does not. well, lets see… (trying it out)... I got it to work by making a 12" square 3D box, using a sacrificial 12" surface drawn on top of the 12" 3D object, then offsetting to 10.5", pulling that out, then deleting the 12" surface. hope that makes sense.

naomi: sorry, hope i didnt confuse you. it wasnt *so* simple as i let on. still, its not complicated.


----------



## spanky (Jan 25, 2009)

I hope these pictures will be helpfull.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

Spanky, that's incredibly helpful! Thanks so much! Can't wait to see the finished project!


----------



## allan0101 (Oct 17, 2009)

Hey, Spanky-Looks like you found some plans (or struck out on your own and developed some yourself). Either way, can you be persuaded to share? My son became interested in Jefferson and all the things he 'invented' after visiting Monticello. He took a fancy to the revolving book stand, and I think it would be a great project for us to do together. Will probably teach both of us a little about woodcraft and how well early Americans were able to design and build intricate pieces with rudimentary tools.

Anyway, if you or anyone else on the board can help, I'd be much obliged.

Regards,
Allan.


----------



## spanky (Jan 25, 2009)

Allan, if you have watched the Woodwright vidiom you can get the diminsion info for the easel parts. The other diminsions are in my post above with pictures. I haven't made any drawings. One thing to remember is it closes to a 12" cube.

good luck


----------



## tonyennis (Oct 24, 2009)

I'm probably a day late and a dollar short on this, but go to the auto supply store and buy a bearing. The smallest they have will do. Or make your own by trapping marbles in a circular groove. This needs to rotate for full effect.


----------



## spanky (Jan 25, 2009)

Tony, I found that the bookstand rotates very easily without bearings or marbel solutions. just wood to wood.


----------



## spanky (Jan 25, 2009)

Naomi, I thought you might like to see my completed bookstand. If you have any questions let me know. I would also be interested in knowing how you are progressing on your project.!

http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss176/Cromera/P1020196.jpg


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

That looks good Spanky. Are you posting it with more pics on LJ?


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

nice, spanky. yes, please post this as a project with many many pics (also post the link here!).


----------



## LJA (Feb 22, 2009)

I've just spent the good part of the day creating a fairly detailed SketchUp drawing of the bookstand. I'm guessing at some of the dimensions though. What is the best way to make the SU file available to folks-with the hope and expectation that I can get feedback on the dimensions?


----------



## LJA (Feb 22, 2009)

Thanks Dave. Here's the link.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=fa58c12029185f11d6a3a91dce5937b9

Note that some of the panels and breadboard ends are left out on purpose-for better viewing. I'd appreciate any suggestions on the dimensions.


----------



## DonJ (Sep 28, 2008)

Sorry if someone has already posted this, but here's a site that sells a reporduction for only $618:

http://www.monticellocatalog.org/110000.html

Maybe there is a market there. It does say that it folds down to a 12" cube, so that gives a notion of size.

I also found a YouTube video where a fellow goes through the build process (using a lazy susan) and has a reference to his pdf for the dimensions.


----------



## LJA (Feb 22, 2009)

Dave,

I would be very interested in how you would approach drawing this bookstand in SketchUp. I have been following your tutorials on Fine Woodworking and found them a great help. This just might be the perfect demo project-just the right level of complexity and the use of all the SU tools.


----------



## LJA (Feb 22, 2009)

Dave, I learn best from video. I can work along with you.
All, still hoping to get some feedback on dimensions. Thanks.


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

LJA-i'm glad you asked Dave for video!
Here are some dimensions:
It folds up into 12" cubed, so each easel is 12"x12" 
Thickness: 7/8" 
The base is 10"


----------



## LJA (Feb 22, 2009)

Re. the dimensions, the Roy Underhill video showed the easel boards at 1/2 in. thick. So, is the extra 3/8 in. (to make 7/8 in. thickness) the ledger board or the folding/hinged stand-offs attached to the back of the easel or both? Re. the base dimension, it's a little hard to tell from the picture, but is the top and bottom of the interior frame 10 in. square too? The postings above size the interior frame at at 10-1/2 in. If the interior frame is 10-1/2 in. square, adding the two opposing easels (7/8 in. x 2) gives a total depth/width of 12-1/4 in. Is that right? Is the 12×12 cube a nominal approximation?


----------



## DonJ (Sep 28, 2008)

Dave,

Any chance on getting a copy of the Sketchup file?


----------



## Kerux (Oct 7, 2007)

I had seen the original won when we visited the homestead. I wanted one real bad at the time. I wanted to go look at that up close so bad. I thought about staying behind and let the group go ahead. Then go study it. Oh well, with computer age.. I don't need it any more.


----------



## LJA (Feb 22, 2009)

Thanks Dave. The video on FW was GREAT!!


----------

