# Lathe w/ extension versus "full-size" lathe



## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

I make table/desk lamps and would like to start turning some lamp bases. This, of course, requires drilling out the length of the piece for lamp cord so any lathe I buy would, in theory, need to have twice the length of my lamp base in turning capacity (the piece + the drill bit). I currently only have plans for shorter pieces in the 8" tall range but I may like to turn longer pieces in the future.

Is there any reason (beyond lower up-front cost) to buy a smaller lathe which can be upgraded with an extension in the future versus spending the extra money up-front to purchase a lathe with a much greater turning capacity?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

If all you are going to turn is spindle work (e.g. lamps, table legs, etc.) a midi lathe with a bed extension may be all you need.

If, however, you think you may be turning bigger stuff, a midi may not have enough oomph to handle the work. Midi lathes have smaller motors (e.g. 1hp or less), and large blanks may be too much for the motor to handle.

I started with a midi (Delta 46-460) and bed extension. It has been great, but I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a lathe with a bigger swing (20" as opposed to the Delta's 12" swing) so I can do larger bowls and hollow forms. The lathe I am likely to go with has a 2hp, 240vac motor which will deliver substantially more torque than the Delta.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

You can drill by hand on a normal size lathe or glue up blanks with the channel pre-cut, which is what I would do.


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

TheDane, I suppose I should take some time to decide what my turning future looks like, eh? For now, I'm pretty focused on spindle work and will probably have more than enough of that type work to keep me busy for a loooong time.


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

Rick, interesting thought (re. pre-cut channel)
I haven't done any lathe work since I was a kid in my dad's workshop so I'm sure there is going to be a good bit of problem solving and trial and error that goes into this. I'll definitely keep your idea in the back of my mind.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Turning firewood lamps how I got started in woodturning. Wasted a lot of wood until learned something about drying wood.

What brand name mini or midi lathe have you been looking at? I would recommend getting a bed extension if looking at those size lathes. Have owned a mini lathe but never turned a lamp on it. All my lamps truned on full size lathe.

Remember distance between centers on any size lathe is reduced by chucks and face plates mounted on the headstock and live center or drill chuck mounted in tailstock. Even on a full size lathe may end up flipping the blank to drill both ends whether using drill bits or lamp auger.

Of course if gluing boards together Rick's table saw method or using router makes life easier. On some style lamps only holes have to drill is for top lamp hardware and one at bottom for the cord.

Only real secret to turning lamps is getting balance & proportions right! Wood has to close to EMC, and not dripping wet!


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## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

This is the way many drill deep for lamp cords. Of course your lathe must have a hollow tailstock.

http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/wturning8.html


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

> What brand name mini or midi lathe have you been looking at? I would recommend getting a bed extension if looking at those size lathes.


I was initially looking at the JET JWL-1221VS as it seemed a fair balance between price and praise, not to mention the option of an extension later. The first lamp designs I have in mind will be shorter pieces; no taller than 6". And, as I've been building my shop slowly in this way, the profit from the sale of those would go toward the extension bed as I develop my ideas.

I have a little less than $2k to spend on my workshop right now and, though I could spend it all on turning equipment, the less I spend on a single tool means a bit more to spend on another. I still need a planer, jointer, router, etc.

Like you, I've already learned my lesson about wet wood. The first lamp base I made was a geometric (faceted) block which I cut with a chainsaw from a recently felled tree. It looked great until the bottom split wide open!


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

LeeMills, interesting. Thanks for the great link! I had done some quick research prior to now and just assumed I needed a turning capacity twice the length of my piece so as to be able to drill straight through with an auger. I didn't realize lathes had a hollow tailstock. I'll have to take a look at the lathe I was interested in. Is the tailstock something which can be "upgraded" or switched out?


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Look at Rick's precut channel. The big problem with drilling long holes in wood is heat. the drill bit epands as it heat up and very quickly seizes in the hole. AMHIKT. And even after everything cools down it can be extremely difficult to impossible to remove the bit.
The link LeeMills provided is good but read carefully the author recommends removing the auger or cutter frequently. *He should have highlighted and underlined it.* Heat buildup is a real problem.


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

> Look at Rick s precut channel. The big problem with drilling long holes in wood is heat. the drill bit epands as it heat up and very quickly seizes in the hole?


Hah! I must admit, the handheld auger depicted in the link had me imagining the loss of some fingers when it seizes and starts spinning at a million RPM.

My only difficulty with the pre-cut channel idea is the lack of a table saw. I'm building my shop slowly through sales from one idea or another using "what I've got available" then moving on to the next idea as my list of tools grows. Though I'm in desperate need of a table saw, the lathe seems like the next logical choice in terms of growing my business alongside my current list of ideas.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> Hah! I must admit, the handheld auger depicted in the link had me imagining the loss of some fingers when it seizes and starts spinning at a million RPM.


Actually, the procedure in Lee's link works pretty well … just turn at a very low RPM and pull the auger out to clear chips and saw dust frequently.


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

> Actually, the procedure in Lee s link works pretty well … just turn at a very low RPM and pull the auger out to clear chips and saw dust frequently.


True. Having experience with things like 3"+ forstner bits, I'm okay with "slow and steady. Clear the swarf. Slow and steady. Clear the swarf."


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Also the lamp augers help with the heat issue with the auger being a larger diameter than the small shaft - - but as has been mentioned, you have to clear it often.

But I am curious other than the preformed channel - - what drilling method doesn't require clearing?


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## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

> I ll have to take a look at the lathe I was interested in. Is the tailstock something which can be "upgraded" or switched out?


You probably can't upgrade or switch out a tailstock.
Most probably come will a hollow tailstock. However most also come with an inexpensive live center. You would need to upgrade the live center to a higher quality and hollow.
Everything I have heard about the Jet you mentioned is a nice lathe.
I purchased a Nova Comet2 for my daughter about 1 1/2 years ago and no problems
The Jet states 1 HP and the Comet 3/4 HP, however according to the specs I have seen the Jet is 6 amp which makes it impossible to produce 1 HP except for a very short (seconds) peak. IIRC the Comet is 5.7 amp.

I would rather drill through the tailstock, if not you have a open end of extended stock just hanging out there in the air to start drilling (and maybe start whipping about).
If the Nova may fit you needs Tools-Plus has it with a free G3 chuck and shipping for $479.
http://www.tools-plus.com/nova-lathes.html
They also have the Nova Lathes 5015 Live Center System for $70.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Have not turned a lamp in few years but have never used a lamp auger. Bought an inexpensive set of 12" long brad point bits many years ago and the one used to drill lamps has served me well. As long as keep clearing chips have no problems. Hardest part of drilling a blank whether use a drill bit or auger is do not drill a hole too big! Measure you lamp components first.


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

> Most probably come will a hollow tailstock.


It looks like the Jet model I'm looking at does have a hollow tailstock. I did recently watch a video of a guy drilling out the middle of a flute, however, and he simply held his piece with a "jaw-like" chuck and the tail end of his piece didn't seem to go anywhere. So, I suppose like most things, there are multiple ways to skin a cat…

I hadn't heard of Nova until now and will take a look at them. It seems buying new tools these days is always something of a leap of faith but I'd like to get turning sooner than later so I need to make a decision!

Thanks for the great info!


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## nathanegriffin (Apr 20, 2015)

> Hardest part of drilling a blank whether use a drill bit or auger is do not drill a hole too big! Measure you lamp components first.


Are you talking pipe diameter or length? I would be drilling straight through my piece to the other end.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Yes, if using pipe, OD's can run 1/8", 3/8", & ½" also can find short threaded pipe nipples, threaded flanged nipples with smooth ID, brass, Bakelite, & clear plastic cord bushings. 
Remember not all kits come with a pipe! Whatever you use, measuring hole diameter & depth very important!

If using 3/8" OD nipple may not need to drill the entire length that size. Just drill to proper depth and then drill smaller 3/16" hole for the cord.

Some people do not care whether have cord bushing other do! Guess lot has to do with design.

Today find pull chain, push thru, single turn knob preferred over 3 way turn knob sockets today.

I found out better to spray any brass and visible brass components with lacquer to prolong or try to keep them from tarnishing before assembly. Quality of brass plating can vary a lot on components.

On many of my early lamps used a forstner bit at the base to could feed the wire to the top! May still do that, or simply turn a recess at the bottom for that purpose.

I got a book at the library and photo copied pages that gave nomenclature of lamp components over 20 years ago, still use those pages along with kit direction if get any.


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