# Grizzly G0833P Tablesaw



## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

After having researched table saws for a while I had decided on the Grizzly G0715P only to learn it has been discontinued. After visiting the Grizzly website I see a new model on back order G0833P. The product page has specs that seem to match exactly the 715P. After examining the spec sheets I think the main 
differences are:

- Additional 1.5 in dust port to attach to blade guard
- Cast iron miter gauge rather than aluminum
- Aluminum fence rather than HDPE
- Cabinet mounted trunions

Not sure if this has even been available for purchase yet, and I have not seen a single review online. Does anyone have any experience with this saw?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

That saw was not in there last week. It looks interesting. The fence appears to be somewhat a copy of the delta unifence. It might even accept the peach tree uni-t fence.


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## amatuerwoodworker (Jun 22, 2016)

I just saw it it online yesterday, looks very promising and ideal for my situation. Now do you buy the early versions or wait for them to work out any kinks…


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## photostu (Jul 19, 2017)

I bet no one has this saw yet.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

Looks like a nice saw. I wonder if it is G0771 internals with beefier attachments.


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## Greg1950 (Nov 30, 2015)

Looks like it comes prewired for 220 and weighs about 40lb more. Also includes Poly-V serpentine belt drive.


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## homercal (Aug 29, 2017)

Hi all,

What is the tactical advantage to this saw's style of fence, versus the G0715P's?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

The fence on this saw seems to be copied from the old delta unifence. You can arrange it with the low side down which helps when ripping thin pieces. You can also slide the fence forward or back.


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## ruel24 (Feb 14, 2012)

Looks like it has dust collection under the blade. Not sure if it's the same trunnion…hopefully it's improved.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

Improved or not they are different from 715. It says cabinet mounted .


> Looks like it has dust collection under the blade. Not sure if it s the same trunnion…hopefully it s improved.
> 
> - ruel24


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## homercal (Aug 29, 2017)

Grizzly's customer service ("Ron") told me the G0833P has a dust hood under the table. It also has a flex hose directly attached under the trunnion plugged directly into the port at the bottom of the saw.

Conceptually, similar to the SawStop of PM1000/2000 methinks.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Hi All,

I'm new to the site (though I've lurked for a while) and recently moved to GA from Chicago. At the new house I'm setting up a new shop with some upgrades.

As part of the new shop, I took the gamble and bought the G0833P. For the price it looked pretty good. The improved dust collection was a big plus since I'll be in a basement woodshop. Its a little scary having 0 reviews anywhere online, but we will see!. Hoping for the best.

I ordered last night so I'm not sure exactly when it will be delivered, but I'll check back in and let you know how it goes.


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

Jeff,

Definitely let us know how it goes. I'm in the same situation as you setting up a basement shop. Just need to get my area framed in and wired and then will probably pull the trigger on this. Unfortunately not allowed to use the whole basement. Good luck, looks like a great saw!


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

awilson,

I'm about the same, just finishing off 1/4 of the basement, so it will be a small shop but I have a lot of plans. Electricians are coming Wednesday to install a sub-panel but I'll be doing the rest of the outlet wiring myself. Then drywalling, lighting, ect.

Anyway, I'll update when I get it!


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Looking at the pictures, the overarm dust collection attaches with an airflow killing tee junction. Why are most manufacturers such morons about dust collection?


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## buckbuster31 (Dec 27, 2016)

> Looking at the pictures, the overarm dust collection attaches with an airflow killing tee junction. Why are most manufacturers such morons about dust collection?
> 
> - jonah


Im clueless what you mean. Can you explain because I am definitely interested! Thanks!


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Look at this picture.










The overarm hose has a right angle junction there. A wye junction would preserve more airflow. As it is, you'll get next to no effective airflow at the blade.

The saw looks interesting, but you'd want to replace that whole bit with one of these:


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

I'm looking pretty hard at the saw right now, myself. I will definitely keep track of this thread.

While that T-junction is a suction-killer in most applications, I doubt if it's bad in this one…..

Because, really…..how much dust do you generate from the top of the saw? Nowhere near what you do from the bottom of the blade.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> I m looking pretty hard at the saw right now, myself. I will definitely keep track of this thread.
> 
> While that T-junction is a suction-killer in most applications, I doubt if it s bad in this one…..
> 
> ...


The problem with over arm dust collection isn't just how much but the velocity if the dust. It moves so fast you really need to have good airflow to move a lot of air to get it sucked up.

The one thing though that will help is that Grizzly tends to run a 3" hose from the 4" port to the saw blade so at least will cause a bit more suction from the overhead dust port.

On my Grizzly saw, I had the shroud re-welded to put a 4" port on it and then ran a 4" hose to the bottom of the saw and so now I have 4" to the blade and 4" on the overhead, but I'm also running a 5hp dust collector with 6" main trunk.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Wanted to drop a quick update. I had hoped to have some good info for you today…..
UPS Freight called Wed to schedule a delivery for Thursday 12-6. 
Thursday afternoon they called to say it didn't make it to the local depo that day so reschedule for Friday 12-6
Friday…......... 6pm I call to see what is up.

I'm told they "can't locate the shipment". uggg.. It got to ATL 5am, but my 6am they couldn't locate it.

The biggest thing that annoys me is they didn't call with an update. I had to hunt them down.

So anyway, UPS and Grizzly are looking for it.

if it shows up I'll update the thread.


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## punkin611 (Feb 24, 2016)

hey guys! who knows where I can get a cheap stock rip fence for a Ridgid 4512 Thanks.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

I have a similar setup and it works just fine. With your idea you will have a slightly different air distribution, more to the bladeguard less to the saw. I am not sure that that was your intent, but that is what you will get.



> The overarm hose has a right angle junction there. A wye junction would preserve more airflow. As it is, you ll get next to no effective airflow at the blade.
> 
> The saw looks interesting, but you d want to replace that whole bit with one of these:
> 
> ...


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> Because, really…..how much dust do you generate from the top of the saw? Nowhere near what you do from the bottom of the blade.
> 
> - 01ntrain


Quite a lot actually:


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Almost purchased a sawstop yesterday but couldn't pull the trigger without more research. 
Safety features aside, I can't imagine the sawstop is 2 1/2 times the saw as the grizzly, as the price indicates.
Any further info from someone who owns this saw would be greatly appreciated.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Almost purchased a sawstop yesterday but couldn t pull the trigger without more research.
> Safety features aside, I can t imagine the sawstop is 2 1/2 times the saw as the grizzly, as the price indicates.
> Any further info from someone who owns this saw would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> - Easterlake


The extra cost is something you will have to consider. What is the value of the safety feature alone worth to you. Then, take the extra cost and try to compare apples to apples. If you're pricing the pcs cabinet or the ics or the contractor saw?

I have a Grizzly table saw and a few other Grizzly tools but everything I have heard and read and see, the Saw Stop really is one of the best built table saws overall. Even over the Powermatics.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

I got the saw all assembled over the weekend. The top of the fence, which will be the face of the fence in low profile orientation, was damaged a little bit during shipping. Its not a huge dent, but if I was running something along it and had pressure on the front it would move the workpiece. Grizzly was very nice on the phone, however since its a new product the fence is backordered. They are seeing what they can do and will get back to me.

Aside from that, the saw is very solid. All the pieces are heavy, blade guard on top moves smoothly, fence glides well. 
I would up taking the top off to make is lighter when wheeling it around my to my basement door. Even without a top, it was heavy.

Unfortunately since I just moved (Chicago to GA) and am building my new shop, I don't have any wood around to cut up (other than 2×4s that I need to start framing). I was all excited to do some test cuts, just used to having tons of scrap around, that it wasn't till I went to get a piece I realized I had no scraps.

I will say it is a a lot quieter than I was expecting which is nice. I'll try to get some wood this week to cut up, or when I start framing cut up the scraps. However it will be a while until I start doing real building and put through it's paces.

But if there are any specific questions let me know and I'll try to get an answer.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Do you have it hooked up to a dust collector and, if so, how good is it?
Thanks


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Not yet, but this weekend I will have some time to test out the dust collection and general cut quality.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Looking forward to hearing about it….thanks


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## HardWood (Jun 22, 2010)

SawStop or G0833P? Should I, shouldn't I, should I, shouldn't I. As a professional cabinetmaker of 17 years, this is a difficult choice to make. I can swing the SS financially and highly value the safety features, but I also appreciate the features and price I see on the 0833. I would love to get this Grizzly saw and demo it, but I am getting older and I do this for a living so the SS safety weighs more heavily. It only takes one time to put me out of commission, but the kids are grown and my wife still loves me.

Another factor in my decision is that I just bought a Festool track saw last week and like the potential it has for business production (first Festool, first track saw).

I have never owned or used either SawStop or Grizzly machinery, or Festool for the matter. I have absolutely no doubt that the quality each can produce will be sufficient for and, for now, excessive of my needs. Nevertheless, it is still a tough decision. Somewhere in my review, I heard or read someone say that "this was the last saw they wanted to have to buy." Me too.

So, I ask meself, do I play guinea pig and go for the Grizzly, or do I play it safe and invest in the SawStop? Either way I believe it is a win.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Ryan, you can just call me a guinea pig. I ordered the Grizzly this afternoon. I'll be connecting it to my G0703 dust collector (using 4" flex hose initially and rigid ductwork later). I suspect the stock dust ports will be much better than my job-site saw with a 2-1/2" port.


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## HardWood (Jun 22, 2010)

Enjoy that saw ChipperBob. You can certainly be in the top ten reviews for it and leave some good notes about it on Grizzly's web page.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I hear what you're saying. I'll be 60 next year so this will be my last saw also. 
I have a 12 year old General contractor saw that I've tried to rig up dust collecting for, but it's a losing battle for the most part.
If I purchase the Grizzly, I can add a new band saw and still have money left over compared to the cost of the Saw Stop.
I do like my fingers though.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Sorry for the delay on updates. 
I hooked up the saw Monday to the HF dust collector (unmodified at the moment). I haven't done a ton of cuts with the saw as my priority is building the new show (framing, walls, lights, .....).

The cabinet collection works well. Not sure if this is a standard thing on cabinet type saws, but underneath and around the blade is kind of a housing that connects directly to a hose that goes to the port. So its almost like the blade is wrapped for dust collection.

I tried to do some tests with the blade guard collection. First I just used it like a regular vacuum and vacuumed up some dust I dumped on the table. Worked great. Sucked up the line of dust.

Next I poured some dust on a piece of cardboard and pushed it into the blade guard housing (with the blade out) to see how the suction worked. I was thinking the whole housing was like open inside, meaning dust could be sucked from anywhere in it. However, the way it works is the front arm thing acts like a tube connected to the top part where the vacuum connects. Thing of like a U on its side with the bend facing the front, and one leg of the U is the hose, the other end rides along the top of the wood and directly in front of where the blade cuts. Hope that makes sense.

The suction from the tube running on top of the wood in front of the blade is good, got a majority of the dust. Will definitely have to get some more use to fully test it. BUT I can definitely say it is way better than no blade guard vacuum or even just a blade guard keeping the dust from flying around. So I'm happy.

Other than that, the saw is great. Well built, everything is solid. I did have to shim one of the wings with a piece of tape on the top half to get it all level, but that is in the directions.

Also, the 'bear crawl' mobile base is awesome!. I can move the saw around very easily and it locks and unlocks with 2 foot levers.

I made a video as like a first look review of the saw if you are interested. Visually might explain the dust part better. I give an overview of the saw.





I'm happy to answer other questions as best I can.


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

Thanks for the great video, exactly what I was hoping would come out of this forum. Your basement shop build looks a lot like the one I'm trying to save for so hopefully more videos to come!


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks, glad it was helpful.

I'm definitely planning on making some additional videos, it was fun. Next week I'm focusing on making some progress on that shop build so I can get back to woodworking soon!


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## HardWood (Jun 22, 2010)

Well, I decided on the G0690, ordered it today. I only need to find a dust collecting blade guard.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Great video. It's really helpful to show the features of such a new saw. It looks like a nice saw from a glance. Thanks for posting.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Very nice video. You covered just about everything and kept it interesting.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Ryan, congratulations on your order. Tell us all about it, but but don't make it look so good that I regret my order. 
On YouTube, Dan Pattison has a video describing the overarm dust collector he built. It might give you some ideas.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Jeff, thanks for the update and video. You highlighted some details on the hand wheels, fence, and dust collection that are not very detailed in the Grizzly information. Since I have not used a full-size table saw, I wasn't sure how those things function. I like the way the blade dust collection deflects the forward-moving dust from the top of the blade toward the rear-moving air stream in the hose.
I do not understand why you removed the table from the saw. Did you do that to move the saw into the basement?

My G0833P is in the hands of UPS Freight. They are not slow, but I am impatient.

I did not order a mobile base; I'll see if I feel the need for one later. I looked at the ShopFox bases, but was not impressed. I didn't see the Bear Crawl, but I like it better. Let us know what you think of it.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Thanks Jeff. It's nice finally seeing the saw in action.
Good luck with your shop.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks for the comments on the video, I had fun making it.

ChipperBob, as to removing the table top. I actually had a minute or two on my shop and delivery of the saw in that video that I cut out because it kind of dragged on. Removing the top was just because of my shop location in the basement. My basement is level with the back yard and has a door opening outside and the front of my house is level (well a little above) with the street. So the side yard is a hill going back, but also had a decent slope to the side. So I was just worried that the saw would fall over, even strapped to the hand truck.

If you don't have to deal with a multi-angle hill, or have some help (I didn't want to crush my wife by making her try to help) you definitely don't have to remove the top. That said, if you take the set screws out it takes like 2 minutes to pop it off. It did help a lot to get all the grease off that they put on the gears for shipping and put dry lube on them.

The mobile base is awesome. I'm really impressed with how easy the saw is to move around. My shop is going to be pretty small (11×19') so i just need to be able to move as many things as possible.

UPS freight was interesting because they routed my saw to the wrong state mid stream, so it was delayed a week, which drove me a little crazy just because I was excited for it. But, once it showed up the driver was great. Not sure about your situation, but I had to get the 'lift gate' service since it was going to my house. In case you are unaware, they are only required to take it off the lift and drop it as your curb side. I chatted up and driver and she was nice enough to pull it up into my garage. That saved my butt because otherwise I would have had to take everything apart at the end of my driveway and drag it up the driveway which is also on a little hill!

Anyway, All worked out.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

I can relate to everything you went through. UPS Freight cannot deliver to my rural house. I used an address in town but they only deliver to my town on Tuesday and Thursday. I was not going to wait for delivery so we arranged to meet in the next town. The drivers were great and wheeled the saw into my little trailer. The saw was too heavy for me to unload by myself so I opened the box and removed the extension tables. It was still very heavy.
I WILL be getting a mobile base for it; it is too heavy to scoot around. It is still on the wooden skid.
I am upgrading from a portable job-site saw so I'm basing my comparison on that. The Grizzly saw is built heavy. Most parts are steel or iron; very few are aluminum or plastic. It went together well and runs very smoothly. With nothing connected to the dust port, a little sawdust landed on the table. Most of it spewed onto the floor by the port. With my G0703 collector connected, very little dust hit the table.
Here were the issues I found. I installed the front rail parallel to the top but it was too low; the fence did not have enough vertical adjustment. I raised rail in the slots and realigned it. On the rear rail, when I tightened the final screw, the rail deflected vertically by 0.030". One of the extension tables is about 0.010" longer than the main table. Tightening the screw nearest that offset bows the rail. I will shim it later but for now, I have removed that screw. The chamfer at the rear of the top does not match the chamfer on the extension tables. I assume there is no functional reason for the difference.
Before I install the scale for the fence, I will need to decide whether to align it for the tall fence or the short fence. In the other configuration, the scale will be wrong. Any recommendations or thoughts?
I can tell this saw is a huge upgrade from my portable saw, just because I have moved to a heavier class of saw.


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## Zaax (Sep 27, 2017)

I have this exact saw under the Harvey name.

(Harvey is the Chinese manufacturer, and sells under its own name outside the US). The only difference is, I did not get the extra top hose, wire holder and T fitting, and the on/off is a magnetic one and not the one shown by Jeff. I guess those are something that Grizzly USA adds.

Mine also came with the sliding table, because that's the way the importer is selling it here. (It's on the Grizzly site for about 650$).

Dust: I wanted to point out the when using the saw with only the riving knife, and not the whole guard thing, (which is the way I usually use it - I know, I know, but I also use Grippers, and sleds, and push sticks etc), the overhead dust is much worse than I hoped. Indeed, inside the cabinet, there is virtually no dust, because the dust goes directly into the 3 inch hose, as Jeff said. But when I used a taper jig or did some trim cuts, it made a horrible mess on the table - it SEEMS to me, even more than my old trusty Bosch did. Maybe I am doing it wrong.
Note, I have not gotten my Leecraft ZC inserts yet. I hope that might make a difference. (The lip is pretty tiny AND shallow, so I do not trust myself to make my own inserts.).

Noise: With no blade, it's pretty quiet. But with a blade on, it's pretty loud, not much softer than my non-induction Bosch was (siren effect? etc). I tried some different blades, a ridge carbide super and a 24t rip. Same noise.

When I did try the blade guard, though, (with no vacuum, as mentioned) the dust was NOT that much better. I suppose I can attach a hose and fit a Y fitting and see if that significantly improves it.

I am a bit concerned about what seems to be wobble. My blades are new and high quality, so it can't be the blades. When I used a gauge on the arbor itself, there was virtually NO wobble. But with a blade, I see it after the brake kicks in after stopping, so maybe it's something to do with the brake.

Also, with a blade on, it takes a full 10 secs to fully stop. With no blade, the arbor stops within about 3 secs. I would like to compare with Jeff or Chipper, and see if this is normal. 10 secs seems like a long time. 
By the way, I had the exact same issues also with the rails, but I managed to get it set up. I set the scale for the high fence.

It did take some calibration of the fence, I had to shim and actually enlarge the holes of the sliding table and cut down the fence rails to fit my tiny shop. Mine says on it 2.5HP, not 2, don't know why there is a discrepancy. See pic of the motor.

I was unable to buy here a wheeled base, and in any case, I have the sliding table, so I made my own L shaped base. I used 6 heavy duty wheels on it. It does raise the saw, but I am 6' so it's fine for me. It also makes it convenient to store the large miter gauge that comes with the sliding part.

Also added an outfeed table.

Overall, for me, it's a huge upgrade, I only used the sliding table a couple times, but when I did, it was fantastic. I think I will need to learn how to use it better. I still made a crosscut sled, well because.

See here some images I took. I think I will put the outfeed table as a Project.


http://imgur.com/dEpMW


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Avi, my saw blade takes about 10 seconds to stop. I don't think it has any sort of brake. My motor makes a clicking noise as it stops, but I think that is the motor switching the capacitors on or off. My motor is 2 HP. I have not noticed the blade wobbling but I will watch for it.
I did not mean to imply that the saw is nearly dust free or that the blade guard is perfect. When trimming less than 1/2" from a board, it spews dust across the left side of the table. Some of the narrow pieces bind with the side plate of the blade guard. A couple of the pieces wedged into the finger slit in the riving knife. As I finish a cut and lift the workpiece, the upper hose is in the way. I haven't learned to work around it yet. It bothers me that I cannot align a mark on the workpiece with the edge of the blade. I will mark the kerf on the table in front of the blade. I will probably make those cuts with just the riving knife.

I don't understand how a zero clearance insert would improve you under-table dust collection. In my limited experience, it seems that a zero clearance sled blocks airflow and dust collection. Am I missing something?

I plan to make a crosscut sled and outfeed table after I get more familiar with the saw. I am still adjusting to some of the differences between this saw and my old one. I ripped several pieces last night and they were all the same width. It seems like an obvious result, but I struggled to get consistent results with my old saw.

I have ordered my Bear Crawl.

Ryan, I look forward to hearing how you like your saw. Hopefully, your delivery and setup will be uneventful.


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## Zaax (Sep 27, 2017)

Bob, I am hoping the zc will keep some of the dust from flying to the sides. I might be stupidly wrong about that.

Maybe indeed it's not a break, the sound I hear after I turn off the saw, but it sure seems that way. I wonder how long it takes your arbor to stop with no blade. Out of curiosity, can you take a pic of your motor?

I had to make a sled for something I wanted to do.
Overall, I am pretty darn happy with it.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

My sawblade also takes several seconds to spin down, but I haven't really timed it. I didn't think the saw had a break, I'm not positive though. My bandsaw makes the same sound when I shut it off as well when it goes in to free spin to slow down. I thought it was just the bearings spinning, something like that.

Avi, are you saying with the blade attached but NOT cutting the saw is super loud? There isn't much noise difference with my saw between blade and no blade. Now when I cut something it obviously gets louder, but still way quieter than my old Delta contractor/jobsite pos. I haven't noticed a wobble but I will check again looking out for it. 
The sliding table saw attachment looks nice!

The contour of the wing on the back of the table is on mine also. I thought at first I had them on backwards or something but both 
sides are the same. My random guess is they used the same wings from another saw that has a matching contour?

I haven't put the scale / ruler on yet. But when I do, I'm planning on aligning it to the vertical fence. I feel like I will use it more often in that configuration. It would be slick to make a new one that had the top numbers set to the vertical fence and bottom row set to the low profile fence. Maybe someday.

Chipper, for aligning the mark to the blade, a trick I saw Izzy Swan demonstrate in his table saw setup video, is to get a straight edge and align it with the blade, then make a light cut in the table top down to the front with a razor blade or something. Then you have a cut line for each blade that you can use farther out. Haven't actually tried it, but it seemed like a good idea.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

I ran the saw without the blade last night. It seemed to be a little louder than with the blade, but it is louder without the insert. Have you checked to be sure the blade and washer are seated fully?









I positioned the scale to use it with the tall fence. When I use the low fence, I will adjust my numbers or measure to the blade.
I made some cuts to a pencil line. I need to mark the kerf on the table. I will look for Izzy's hint.
The upper dust hose bothers me. It tends to be on my way. I haven't found the best position for the support wire, but i like that it acts as a fence stop. That could keep me from sliding the fence off the end of the rails.
With every cut, I am pleased with the saw.


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

This just went on Black Friday Sale for $825 Really tempting, any new reviews from anyone? I have been using a old ryobi BT300 that I made my own top for so I could use sleds etc, This might be a worthwhile update for me.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

I want to thank you Jeff and ChipperBob. I purchased this saw on the Black Friday Sale earlier today based on your comments and feedback. I've been considering getting into the hobby for a number of years and finally decided to take the plunge. Seeing as this is the first major tool purchase, I agonized over the Jet, SawStop, Powermatic, and Grizzly contractor saws. I narrowed it down to the SawStop and Grizzly and decided to go with the Grizzly as I can outfit a good chunk of my shop for the same price as the SawStop Pro.

With any luck I'll have it before the long holiday weekend!


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

mthird - I bought it on sale today too! I've been agonizing over it since the very first day it was released and the Black Friday sale was just the nudge I needed. Thanks again to the earliest reviewers for helping make this decision! I will let you know how set up goes.


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## richardchaos (May 12, 2017)

I hate to be a wet blanket but I Have learned to NEVER buy a recently released tool/object. Let it get out there and read the reviews.

I can assure you, everything Grizzly sells is made by some Asian Political Prisoners on the other side of the planet.


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## avsmusic1 (Jul 10, 2016)

^ respectfully, this isn't particularly helpful


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## TRoebs00 (Nov 17, 2017)

I picked one up. Black Friday deal was too good to let go. I'm sure there will be some issues but all the right boxes are checked and the price is right.

It'll take me a while to get it together but I'll post a review when I do.


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

Are both riving knives the same thickness, and what thickness are they? I don't see any replacements on the Grizzly site, and I like the thinner blades.


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

Got mine today. Sorry to say, I can't get the top off. I took the four corner screws out, but she won't budge. is there anything else? I don't see any other attachments… 
I'm hesitant to bang away 

Any one know the trick?

-

Ahh! Set screws. I didn't see them the first 12 times I looked. In opposite corners there are *ADDITIONAL* set screws (2 total in addition to the original four bolts). Thanks to this guy! [



]


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

KV3, yep, I had the same problem. I really thought there was some hidden bolt inside or something. Drove me crazy before I found them!


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

KWiK, I checked mine, they are the same thickness. 
printed on the side:
thickness : 0.1" 
blade dia:10" 
blade body T: 0.063~0.094" 
blade kerf w: 0.102~0.126


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

The Shop Fox version is out and at a local dealer…..gonna go check it out, today.


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

> The Shop Fox version is out and at a local dealer…..gonna go check it out, today.
> 
> - 01ntrain


What is the real difference between the Grizzly and ShopFox Versions?


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

Thanks Chimpwoodshop. I think my kerf is .091 or .092, not sure what the blade is, so those would be to thick. I wonder if a person could get those surfaced down. Any new things to add since the video? 
I am torn between a old Unisaw and this, but my main reason for buying a new saw is safety equipment which the unisaw doesn't really have.


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

> The Shop Fox version is out and at a local dealer…..gonna go check it out, today.
> 
> - 01ntrain
> 
> ...


From what I've gathered online, the Shop Fox is more expensive. It does have an upgraded angle guide, but that's about it.


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

Update: Went to look at the Shop Fox, the fit and finish is good. It has cast-iron wings just like the Grizzly, and it has a bonus extension table made from red laminate….don't think the Grizzly has that. It doesn't matter to me, because I will put a router table there. My biggest beef is the price. It's over $300 more than the Grizzly. That may change on Black Friday, but that may be the kicker for me. Wondering if it's worth getting local or dealing with a shipping company and the inevitable issues there. Mmmm…..decisions, decisions.

My biggest question is this? Can you make your own zero-clearance inserts?


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Mine arrives Monday.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Mine arrived yesterday afternoon. I'm taking a series of unboxing / setup pictures that I'll post when I'm through.

First impressions; it was packed well and no visible damage to the boxes. Unlike another Grizzly thread, mine had reasonable amount of packing grease that didn't take too long to remove. I used paste wax to lubricate the gears, but have not yet found the bearings that are supposed to be oiled.

That's as far as I got last night as I didn't have the right electrical terminal (tab terminal) so I could replace the power cord. The mobile base didn't arrive until 5 hours later so I couldn't even verify it worked with the shorter cable.


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

Thanks mthird- mine comes on Monday. I'd be very interested in the unboxing/setup pics. I do have a little anxiety about getting this thing down my basement stairs. My first thought was to slide it down some planks, but this thing is heavy and I might kill myself, or worse, break a brand new saw. I think I will dissamble into manageable loads and get help moving them. Open to suggestions from anyone who has been there done that.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

You're welcome, awilson.

I think moving the base+motor is manageable if you remove the top. I won't be able to get mine off the pallet until Thursday evening or Friday due to Thanksgiving obligations but I'll report back on my success / lack of (and therefore lots of tears).


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## Greg1950 (Nov 30, 2015)

Have been watching these post with great interest and just ordered mine today. Ran into some problem with shipping as Grizzly said that UPS wouldn't deliver down my cul-de-sac and needed extra $32 for a lift gate, which is my case. That started me looking for options. They suggested picking it up from the UPS terminal. I contacted UPS at the terminal and spoke to dispatch. He was familiar with Grizzly and said they had shorter trucks with lift gates, there would be no problem delivering to my house, and no extra charge. Just passing this on so that you might save a few bucks by checking with your local UPS.


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

@awilson - i'd recommend against trying to stairs on your own-even with just cabinet+motor (no top). I was able to get mine onto the dolly easily enough and strapped in, but got a second pair of hands to get it down the stairs. (You might be stronger and not have a broken thumb, but still..) If you can get a second pair of hands for 10 minutes, it's probably best.

@Greg1950 - thanks for sharing. I've heard horror stories about the delivery (my driveway is accessible); but calling UPS directly can probably work around that. Lift gate fee is annoying, but my guy was nice enough to at least walk it up the drive into the garage (both times, actually, I just got the "starter" full size lathe as well-G0462).


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

I've moved two unisaws by myself by taking the wings, top, and motor out. Once that's done, the base is just barely manageable for one strong person. I'd recommend strapping it to a two wheeler if possible, but you can certainly muscle it down the stairs without one if you have to.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

So after prepping everything for the big Thanksgiving feast I found a few minutes to rewire the switch with my 15' cord. Go to throw the magic breaker and 
... nothing.

This was a new 240v circuit I ran over the weekend and it tested fine. Double checked my connections in the switch and extension cord. Pulled out the trusty multimeter and the hot legs on the outlet read 31v. Wah?? Unscrewed the outlet to check the terminals. Still 31v. Removed the cover off the breaker box and checked the breaker terminals; 31v. Finally, carefully, gingerly, tepidly touched the bus bars and read 248v. Damn dead breaker.

Guess I have to wait until Friday to hear her purr. Sigh.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Since I can't leave well enough alone I tried a few more things.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. I took e-mag (Physics II) in college and have enough grasp to have a healthy fear of what I'm doing.

Hot 1 to neutral = 120+ volts
Hot 1 to ground = 120+ volts
Hot 2 to neutral = 4 volts
Hot 2 to ground = 4 volts

This set of readings usually means an open neutral only neutral isn't used in this circuit. Just for grins I disconnected the wiring from the outlet then from the breaker.

Hot 1 to neutral = 120+ volts
Hot 1 to ground = 120+ volts
Hot 2 to neutral = 0 volts
Hot 2 to ground = 0 volts

I moved the breaker to a different spot on the panel and saw the same results. While it is apparently improbable, I think I have a dud breaker.

Thoughts?


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

It's not that improbable. Dud breakers happen a lot. Are you sure you have a solid connection between that wire and the breaker?


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

I believe I ruled that out by removing the wires entirely and touching the probes directly to the set screws on the breaker. I'll find out tomorrow when HD opens.


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## avsmusic1 (Jul 10, 2016)

With the table and motor removed it's pretty easy to move a cabinet w/ a cheap hand truck. I'm working on an old PM66 and move it w/ a basic harbor freight hand truck w/out much issue- straps it to the hand truck just in case though


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

Is it pretty simple to remove the motor on this unit? I am leaning toward this option but if it is a major pain to disassemble I could also spend $70 and rent a stair climbing appliance dolly for 4 hours which seems like it would handle the pallet fairly easy.


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## Hurt80 (Nov 24, 2017)

I have one coming this next week, I cant wait. should be a big upgrade from my craftsman 21807.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Mthird, your voltage reading sound to me like your hot2 is connected to the neutral, as if you have a 120v circuit. 
Did you measure the voltage from hot1 to hot2 at the saw? Did you run the neutral to the saw or just the two hot lines and ground?
Instead of replacing the saw's cord, I ran a flexible cable from the wall to a 220v outlet in a junction box. I mounted the junction box under the rear fence rail. It allows me to unplug the saw while I am standing at the saw.
In response to someone's plan to put a router table in the right hand extension, consider the fence. The saw fence has 3 thumbscrews (that secure the aluminum fence extrusion) that project to the right. The stock saw fence would not make a good router fence.

The screw that holds the riving knife plate in place loosened allowing the riving knife to lean out of alignment with the blade. I tightened it and it has not loosened again.

I need to recheck the alignment of the fence, blade, and tabletop. It seems to have shifted a little bit.

I am still very happy that I moved to a bigger better style of saw. I am also very satisfied that I chose the Grizzly saw.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Chipper - I double checked that and it was not the problem. New breaker and all is well.

Everything is assembled, aligned, and ready for the first cut tomorrow.


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

> Looking at the pictures, the overarm dust collection attaches with an airflow killing tee junction. Why are most manufacturers such morons about dust collection?
> - jonah


if you're talking about the connection at the lower portion of the hose, that's essentially a two-to-one vane directed fitting, it's not "airflow killing" in the least, quite the opposite.

BUT, generally speaking, I DO AGREE with your assessment that manufacturers are morons about dust collection.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Picked mine up from UPS freight on Tuesday. I left it in my truck, parked in the garage until Thanksgiving day when there were plenty of guys around to help me take the saw out to my shop. 
The right and left cast iron wings along with the fence and front and rear rails are packed seperatly. All that remains is the base, top, and motor. Sounds easy but I wouldn't attempt to move it without at least three guys.
I have it all together, and am about half way through with wiring it to 115v. Pretty straight forward, with excellent directions. 
After adding both wings, the front and back rails, and the fence, I was sure the saw would need alignment but everything went together perfectly, flat and square. A 30 second adjustment on the fence was all that was needed. I'll double check everything in a week or so.
One thing I found kind of odd. Either I misplaced the metal, adhesive backed tape measure for the rail, or one wasn't sent. After looking at the directions there wasn't even one listed in the "included parts" section. Did everyone else get one?. Really no big deal, I ordered one on Amazon and it'll be here in a couple days. 
I'm looking forward to the improved dust collection over my contractor saw. I agree that the 90 degree turn where the 1.5" port comes off of the 4" seems very inefficient, but we'll see how it goes. I may experiment later with either running a separate 1.5" port, 45 degrees off of my dust collector piping, or even running the 1.5 seperatly to a shop vac. We'll see.
Hopefully I'll have it purring tomorrow morning.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> ... One thing I found kind of odd. Either I misplaced the metal, adhesive backed tape measure for the rail, or one wasn t sent. After looking at the directions there wasn t even one listed in the "included parts" section. Did everyone else get one?. Really no big deal, I ordered one on Amazon and it ll be here in a couple days.
> ...
> 
> - Easterlake


Since you're replacing the tape measure, you might consider moving the fence rail to the right by one bolt hole on the mounting bracket to gain several inches rip capacity. http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/34563

Enjoy your new saw, and get a decent blade for it.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I'll look into the fence rail. Already upgraded the blade. Thanks..


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

You guys are driving me crazy.  I had the saw in my cart, and ended up closing the page and walking away. Today is the last day, and I just can't make up my mind. I keep thinking what I could do with that much money spent on nice wood. I really want the saw, but just not sure it would ever pay for itself.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

First pic is the amount of sawdust on the table surface after cutting around 8 feet of 5/8 plywood. Almost none. My dust collector is a Jet Cyclone, 1.5 HP.
This was my primary reason for replacing my contractor saw with this one. My shop is somewhat enclosed and the amount of cleanup after every use was killing me. Not to mention the health implications. 
As of today, I couldn't be happier. 
After selling my General Int. contractor saw my net cost for the Grizzly was about $450.


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## Hurt80 (Nov 24, 2017)

> You guys are driving me crazy.  I had the saw in my cart, and ended up closing the page and walking away. Today is the last day, and I just can t make up my mind. I keep thinking what I could do with that much money spent on nice wood. I really want the saw, but just not sure it would ever pay for itself.
> 
> - KWiK
> 
> After a couple of bigger projects sold and when my buddy buys my old saw I'll actually still be a little money ahead.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Pulled the trigger this weekend on the G0833P. Before it gets here I want to order a good all purpose saw blade for it. I was looking at the Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade, but the specs list the Kerf at .098 and the Grizzly manual states I need a blade with a kerf of .102-.126. Any ideas on a good all around blade for my new machine? Also has anyone spoke with Grizzly to see if they are going to offer a thin kerf riving knife?


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

> Also has anyone spoke with Grizzly to see if they are going to offer a thin kerf riving knife?
> - Baseballhack


Here is what they told me.

We appreciate your inquiry of a thin kerf riving knife for use with your thin kerf blades. When UL decided to make changes to their UL-987 Standards, one of those changes was the recommendation of equipping all table saws with a true riving knife. These standards are very specific with the riving knife remaining a given distance from the blade, as well as in relation to the blade height. They go even further requiring the riving knife to defect under side pressure no more than a specified amount. The thinner riving knife, the harder it is to meet these standards. Currently, we do not offer a thinner riving knife to be used with thin kerf blades that meet the most recent UL-987 standards. These same standards do not allow us to offer a thinner riving knife as an option unless it meets the same UL standards the saw was built to comply with. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Thank you, that is interesting.



> Also has anyone spoke with Grizzly to see if they are going to offer a thin kerf riving knife?
> - Baseballhack
> 
> Here is what they told me.
> ...


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

BTW I decided I haven't used my old Logan metal lathe in a long time, and so I pulled the trigger on the saw, and plan on cleaning up the lathe and selling it.


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## JR12866 (Nov 27, 2017)

I have the G0833P and I bought a Rigid Carbide blade - full kerf. Goes through 8/4 maple with no problem.


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

Saw arrived today via UPS Freight with liftgate service. Packaging was pretty much unscathed. UPS lady told me she wasn't allowed to help me push it up the driveway but let me use the pallet jack to do it myself. My driveway does have a uphill slope in the middle of it but I was able to muscle it up struggling a bit with steering but the weight felt manageable. I've started unpacking in my garage and everything looks accounted for. The tape measure that someone mentioned missing was packed in the box with the rails.

One thing I've noticed while examining the table attachment, is a threaded bolt or pin of some sort coming down through the cast iron and through the base attachment plate by the front left mounting bolt. I've attached an image as it is hard to explain.










I don't see anything in the manual about this and it certainly looks like a defect, but perhaps it was used for some sort of shimming purchase to align the table. I will contact Grizzly and see what they say. Does anyone else's saw have this?


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

I'm remembering now mentioning of set screws and have found them in the schematics. I'm guessing that's what this part is and it just was misaligned a bit.


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

> Pulled the trigger this weekend on the G0833P. Before it gets here I want to order a good all purpose saw blade for it. I was looking at the Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade, but the specs list the Kerf at .098 and the Grizzly manual states I need a blade with a kerf of .102-.126. Any ideas on a good all around blade for my new machine? Also has anyone spoke with Grizzly to see if they are going to offer a thin kerf riving knife?
> 
> - Baseballhack


Thin-kerf blades are meant for saws that are under-powered, which shouldn't be an issue with this saw. I wouldn't put a thin-kerf blade on it.

I read that part in the manual, as well…..but it also states that the riving knife is 2.5mm thick. Which is pretty much the standard size for most of the combination blades (Freud, Diablo, Irwin Marples, etc) some higher end ones have thicker kerfs. Honestly, I would buy one of your above mentioned blades and call it a day.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I too purchased the G0833P this past week. Mine arrives tomorrow. this will be my 3rd Grizzly (big) tool in the shop and I have been very happy with the other two.

Thanks Chimpwoodshop for the review, as I was searching and only found your review online, which was what sold me after viewing. That as well as similarities with what the G0833P had to offer (similar to the G0670).

Jury's still out on if I will keep the top dust collection as I don't normally keep my blade guard on.

I'm coming from a 30 yr old Craftsman 10 in that has served me well; and I've gotten my money's worth from it.

Wanted to also add that I upgraded my fence on the Craftsman saw with a Biesenmeyer off brand online ($250 still) and was highly satisfied with it. Sad to see it go with old saw, but it will be a selling point for the old saw.

New to site, and looking forward to future posts!


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I hear ya. I seldom used the blade guard on my last saw, but am going to try to do so on this one whenever I can.
The blade guard can be taken off and put on in just a few seconds, no tools required. There is a spring loaded PIN that locks and unlocks it. It's so easy I believe I'll be more tempted to use it.
Good luck.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Pulled the trigger this weekend on the G0833P. Before it gets here I want to order a good all purpose saw blade for it. I was looking at the Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade, but the specs list the Kerf at .098 and the Grizzly manual states I need a blade with a kerf of .102-.126. Any ideas on a good all around blade for my new machine? Also has anyone spoke with Grizzly to see if they are going to offer a thin kerf riving knife?
> 
> - Baseballhack


The Tenryu GM-25540 has a 0.111" kerf width, and is an excellent all around blade. $94 on Amazon.

The Infinity 010-060 is a very clean cutting versatile blade that'll do well in all but very thick ripping. Kerf width is 0.104". You can add a decent 24T ripper to the equation as needed. $70


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Thanks knotscott. You have no idea how many of your posts on blades I have read in the past couple days. Including How to Select A Blade. The information out there can be overwhelming. Hopefully my saw will be here before the weekend as I have plenty of time this weekend to set it up.


> The Tenryu GM-25540 has a 0.111" kerf width, and is an excellent all around blade. $94 on Amazon.
> 
> The Infinity 010-060 is a very clean cutting versatile blade that ll do well in all but very thick ripping. Kerf width is 0.104". You can add a decent 24T ripper to the equation as needed. $70
> 
> - knotscott


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

I couldn't pass up on the Black Friday sale and ordered a G0833P Sunday night. It was a long agonizing research project and it came down to a professional sawstop and the Grizzly. I didn't want to spend that much on the saw. This way I saved room for a jointer planer combo unit.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Good luck David.


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

To update, I was able to move the saw from my garage through my house and down into the basement without removing the table top or the motor. With 3 people lifting it is was pretty manageable.


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## Greg1950 (Nov 30, 2015)

Have got mine mostly together and tuned pretty close. Does any one have thoughts to which "face" they are going to use on the fence most of the time. Trying to decide before I put the tape down.


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

I got mine today. I declined on the lift gate fee, figuring I would just throw some wood in the back of my truck to match the semi, and slide it in on that, but the semi had a lift gate anyhow.

Anyhow, I am wondering why some (all?) of you took the top off the saw? I don't see anything in the instructions saying to do that. Was it just to get at the gears etc to clean off the shipping oil? Do you feel you were able to do that much better of a job to make it worth while?


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I'm sure one of the main reasons is the reduction in weight when moving it to its final location. I was lucky to have several guys around to help me move mine.
If you have less than 3 people I'd remove the top. If you have 3 or more, you'll be fine. I had no trouble getting my saw cleaned up.


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

LOL I am 62 years old with rheumatoid arthritis and I moved it from the front of my house to the back on a harbor freight hand cart across gravel and grass.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I picked mine up at UPS and had to lift it out of my truck.
I'm 6'6", 240 lbs, and evidently a wimp. Haha! 
My biggest concern was losing my balance or having it shift on me and not being able to stop it.
Enjoy your saw!!


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

Defiantly didn't mean to imply anyone was a wimp. I apologize if I came off that way. My main concern is that I am not missing the obvious as I put this together. I was thankful for the lift gate, because I was not looking forward to getting it out of my truck. Apparently in my area UPS drops it off at a independent delivery company to do residential deliveries. I lucked out in that aspect of it.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

No offense taken. I am a wimp.
Hopefully we both have good taste in table saws!


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

I received mine this afternoon. Box had damage but unit appears ok. The driver was great and hustled the saw on a pallet jack from the street to the rear of the complex and into my garage. Easily 150 yards. I tipped him what I had in my wallet. It could have been bad. Feeling thankful. I will take my time, enjoy the process and hopefully have it together this weekend. The saw looks great!


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I paid the fee for lift gate from UPS. Had mover put right in garage. Finally got it off crate and on mobile cart tonight (Shopfox heavy duty from Grizzly). Had to cut 2 in off all arm sides, but fit perfectly. After I unbolted saw from crate, used two 2X4s, and slid right from pallet to my mobile cart. I'm no wimp, but didn't want to pull 450 lbs out of the back of my truck. haha. Really impressed with saw quality. Didn't have to put masking tape on table extensions, as they fit perfectly. Stopped tonight after I got front fence guard on. More later.


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

Thanks Easterlake!


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Got my G0833P together tonight! Everything fit perfectly, and manual was right on with everything. IF I was to find one "nit" was that manufacturer shorted me a flat washer, and gave me an extra split washer in it's place. ha. Will be making sawdust with it tomorrow, as I move it into my shop and take old one out. I did purchase the 110V adapter, but have wired 220 circuits into my shop, so I think I'll stick with 220V for now. Speaking of manufacturer, since this saw didn't indicate "Made in USA", and didn't annotate where it was made in specs, does anyone know where saw was manufactured? Again, everything was dead on accurate. Love the fence, btw!


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

The box said China… I only noticed because I'm making it into a train tunnel for my boys. (Large gauge…)


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

Nice pb33! I just got mine together except for rewiring to 110 and a longer cord. Btw, I got your washer in my kit. For all the negative I read about Grizzly saws, I got to say, I didn't experience any negatives about the finish, fit and instructions. It went together great! I think my purchase was a good one. I'll update as I break it in.


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## Hurt80 (Nov 24, 2017)

Got my mine all assembled and running. Big upgrade from my old saw. Runs great, cuts straight and smooth. Everything was true and square out of the box. Only had some minor adjustments to make on the miter gauge and riving knife. Very pleased with my purchase. Anyone have suggestions on some good blades? Im looking at some Freud blades, 50 tooth combo, 80 tooth plywood, and the 30 tooth glue line ripping blade. Any thoughts on those blades?


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## Dave6531 (Dec 2, 2017)

Deciding between this saw and the new model laguna f2 fusion. Looking to read more reviews and input on this saw.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Thanks KV3, I was thinking about seeing if someone in my neighborhood would want the box pieces for that same thing! Also, thanks David on finding my washer! ha. I am thinking this was a good purchase too! I will report in on status after it's running tomorrow.

Note on good blades. Freud are good ones, and if you want to go on the high end of town, Forrest are real good blades, that apparently they like a lot too as they are about twice the price of a Freud in Home Depot.

I always look for flat cutters on end for finish work, and thin kerfs. However, it would depend if you are planning on ripping or cutting. 40, 80, 96 tooth also depends on what you are cutting. Good saw needs a good blade!

FYI, I've got craftsman, freud and some others, and they all cut just fine when sharp. Better blades stay sharp longer as well.


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Easterlake, I like how easy it is to remove the blade guard or the riving knife. Unless the blade is very low, I can reach a fat finger through the access hole in the insert to retract and turn the retaining pin. I plan to use either the blade guard or the riving knife whenever it is practical.
I was cutting some wood and the internal stresses tried to close the kerf on the riving knife. At first, I was aggravated by the binding and then I recognized that it was kickback that didn't happen.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

Hey guys, I'm loving my saw so far. I have used it the last couple weekends on small projects to get acquainted with it and look forward to using it each time. Very happy with it for a first saw!

I did find a little thing to be aware of on mine today while setting up a dado stack. I got it all on and tightened down and noticed a bit of a vibration when I turned my saw on. As soon as I started the first test cut to check my width I heard that something was not right. I had my stack set for 3/4" and there was a deep groove in the cut. I took the stack off one piece at a time and noticed when I grabbed the chipper closest to the motor it had some up and down play in it. I found that there is a groove in my arbor between the end of the threads and the part of the shaft that the blade seats on.

I moved one of my spacers to that spot which moved that chipper out far enough to center on the full diameter of the arbor threads. When only one blade is on it seats fully on shoulder closest to the motor but I don't know how I would get a chipper centered if the stack didn't require any spacers? I don't know if this is normal or if my arbor is flawed? Can you guys look at your arbors and see if it looks the same?

The photos show what I am talking about on the arbor and the two photos of the blade show how much I am able to move the first chipper up and down in the groove compared to the outer blade which does not move.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I think there was a different collar ring for dado stacks, included in the saw materials. Probably to cover this gap. Will be interested to hear more from others.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Just checked my saw. My arbor has that same groove but my FREUD dado set does not have any play with a chipper in the 2nd position. It could be that chippers have different base thicknesses.



> Hey guys, I m loving my saw so far. I have used it the last couple weekends on small projects to get acquainted with it and look forward to using it each time. Very happy with it for a first saw!
> 
> I did find a little thing to be aware of on mine today while setting up a dado stack. I got it all on and tightened down and noticed a bit of a vibration when I turned my saw on. As soon as I started the first test cut to check my width I heard that something was not right. I had my stack set for 3/4" and there was a deep groove in the cut. I took the stack off one piece at a time and noticed when I grabbed the chipper closest to the motor it had some up and down play in it. I found that there is a groove in my arbor between the end of the threads and the part of the shaft that the blade seats on.
> 
> ...


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

I remember reading one or two people got the Bear Crawl mobile base. Mine is on back order, and I want to start working on a table to go behind the saw. Can someone tell me the approximate height the mobile base raises the saw?


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## awilson (Aug 16, 2017)

@kwik- Just measured mine and got 13/16ths of an inch off the ground. Also I recall there being instructions for building the base 'around' the machine so you do less lifting.


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

awilson, thanks. I was expecting more than that. Low and stable, I like it.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

The only thing I dont like about the Bear Crawl base is that it sits higher on the side with swiveling casters. This is also the side with the flip-down feet, which make it more uneven when they are down in the "stationary" position. Easy enough to fix with some shims I suppose. With the saw on the stand resting on all 4 wheels the table measures 34 3/4" from the floor on low end and 35 3/8" on the swivel caster end. Measurement taken from the end of the cast iron extensions.



> I remember reading one or two people got the Bear Crawl mobile base. Mine is on back order, and I want to start working on a table to go behind the saw. Can someone tell me the approximate height the mobile base raises the saw?
> 
> - KWiK


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

alright.. here goes… I'm a moron: what do i need to clean off from shipping, why, and what do i replace it with? Something about the shipping grease, etc. Thanks!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> alright.. here goes… I m a moron: what do i need to clean off from shipping, why, and what do i replace it with? Something about the shipping grease, etc. Thanks!
> - KV3


Did you read the manual??? (particularly, page 20 under the section titled "Cleanup")

Cheers,
Brad


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

well, yeah… but If I don't clean it off, what happens.. just doesn't ride a smooth on the surface?
What do you use as the long-term protectant? Any ideas?


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I had the same concerns. The manual doesn't go into a lot of detail. I simply stripped all of the grease off of the cast iron tops and wings. After it was all removed I put on a coat of paste wax, let it dry, and buffed it out.
I'll repeat this every couple of months. 
As for other non-painted parts of the saw, I didn't see grease caked on anywhere where I thought it would be an issue.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> What do you use as the long-term protectant? Any ideas?












Cheers,
Brad


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I second the Johnson paste wax


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## ChipperBob (Sep 24, 2017)

Abraxxas, I did not follow the instructions when I put my Bear Crawl together. I put the fixed wheels in the rear (they let the saw move forward and backwards) and I received the front two corner assemblies. The swivel casters protrude to the side and the two flip levers are on the front side of the saw. The levers are close to the saw and I thought I would be less likely to trip over them.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

@ChipperBob - That's a good idea, I thought about doing the same but I decided to try it the other way first. My thoughts are it will be easier to control going out into the driveway over the expansion joints and such if I could push and steer with an extension wing or the end of the fence rails. The apron in front of my garage is sloped a bit so I can actually position the saw so its level with the feet down.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I purchased the Shop Fox mobile base (rated at 1300 lbs) and it assembled easily as the other two I have. Note, due to the small size of the cabinet, rails need 1.5 (est) inches cut off each side. I did this uniform so you can still see the logo tape (you can cut one side if you don't care). Also, set my Incra fence 1000 HD last night to the t guide rail in the saw, and it is spot on. Now, to remake all my sleds, and attachments for new saw! I am going to make Nick Ferry's sled that also has the 45degree attachment. Saw him at a wood show this year (Skiatook OK) and purchased plans. Helping out a fellow woodworker! Love the saw so far, now to re-run dust collection in shop so I can use all the time. Also, planning on integrating a router table attachment (Jay Bates, saw him too!) to finish out saw. Winter's here, and this will give me some more smaller projects to do in shop.


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

> when I grabbed the chipper closest to the motor it had some up and down play in it.
> - Abraxxas


I dont want to sound condescending, but are you using the outer and inner blades, with the chippers? 
I mean to say you're not putting the chipper on first, are you?
with my freud set, the chippers all index on eachother and the outer and inner blades sandwich the chippers. 
with my set, to reach 3/4, I dont believe a shim is required, just spacers..


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Has anyone built or found a zero clearance insert for their G0833P?


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

> Has anyone built or found a zero clearance insert for their G0833P?
> 
> - Baseballhack


Baltic birch, a jigsaw, and some patience makes a fantastic zero clearance insert.


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

> Has anyone built or found a zero clearance insert for their G0833P?
> 
> - Baseballhack
> 
> ...


Not trying to be snippy, but that particular saw is a hybrid, and they have been known to have issues with homemade zero-clearance inserts. I've looked at the saw(the ShopFox equivalent) and that's my question, as well. It didn't appear that making one yourself was going to be an option.

Have any of you new owners made or purchased a zero-clearance insert for this saw?


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I have made some for my previous saw (Craftsman), and looking at the G0833P plate, that shouldn't be a big issue to make them. You can cut shape out of hardwood close to final shape, then finish with a router trim bit to mirror the shape of the plate. Since there is nothing holding down the plate (screw), I would make sure your guard is always on to avoid potential catch and flip up.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> ...Not trying to be snippy, but that particular saw is a hybrid, and they have been known to have issues with homemade zero-clearance inserts. I ve looked at the saw(the ShopFox equivalent) and that s my question, as well. It didn t appear that making one yourself was going to be an option.
> 
> Have any of you new owners made or purchased a zero-clearance insert for this saw?
> 
> - 01ntrain


The concern with homemade ZCI's isn't specific to hybrid saws, it's specific to certain types of inserts. Some inserts are just easier to duplicate. It's a concern that's worth looking into with any saw.


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## Greg1950 (Nov 30, 2015)

Zero-clearance solution for thin throat plates. Try this for your plate. Haven't done it yet but looks good. Came from Wood Magazine.com, also for it in Pinterest.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Thanks Greg1950. That is an interesting solution. One thing that concerns me is the initial cut for the blade kerf. The rare earth magnets would seem secure enough to hold it in place once the kerf is cut, just not sure how it would hold up to the forces of the spinning blade on the initial cut.



> Zero-clearance solution for thin throat plates. Try this for your plate. Haven t done it yet but looks good. Came from Wood Magazine.com, also for it in Pinterest.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

> Thanks Greg1950. That is an interesting solution. One thing that concerns me is the initial cut for the blade kerf. The rare earth magnets would seem secure enough to hold it in place once the kerf is cut, just not sure how it would hold up to the forces of the spinning blade on the initial cut.
> 
> Zero-clearance solution for thin throat plates. Try this for your plate. Haven t done it yet but looks good. Came from Wood Magazine.com, also for it in Pinterest.
> 
> ...


What I've always done for the initial cut is to move my fence over the insert, but not covering the blade, and run it up. You could use a sacrificial fence if you feel uncomfortable with the process.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

The fence or a straight piece of wood clamped over the insert next to the blade works fine. If you raise the blade very slowly (which you should do any way you do it), the insert won't move at all even with minimal downward pressure.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> Has anyone built or found a zero clearance insert for their G0833P?
> 
> - Baseballhack
> 
> ...


Something tells me you never tried to make a zero clearance insert.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

> Has anyone built or found a zero clearance insert for their G0833P?
> 
> - Baseballhack
> 
> ...


Carloz is the one being snippy. Not really necessary.

I have made two ZCI's for my Grizzly 1023. I was not aware of the hybrid issue in the saw being referenced, and I had neglected to include the step about using the factory insert as a guide with a router and a flush trim bit after you've used the jigsaw for a rough cut blank.


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

I use rare earth magnets to hold them down when they dont have a screw hold down.

epoxied to several places around the perimeter of the plate at the bottom edge (sometimes it's in the thicker section, just away from the lip).


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

I have been thinking about this as it is on my list of things to make. The existing metal plate is held down with a tab in the back and a magnet in the front. why not duplicate that by screwing down a metal tab in the back with some counter sunk screws, and adding a small rare earth magnet or a thin piece of metal to mate up to the magnet in the saw?

The other possibility I see is to drill and countersink the stock plate, and add a thin piece of wood below it. You could even glue a thin piece to fit in the slot of the stock plate(double the wood up there)


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Loving my saw so far. Built William Ng's crosscut sled and now I'm looking to add a folding outfeed table. Only issue I see is that the back of fence rides on the steel L that the table would attach to. I haven't been able to find any designs that work around this.

Thoughts?


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

> Loving my saw so far. Built William Ng s crosscut sled and now I m looking to add a folding outfeed table. Only issue I see is that the back of fence rides on the steel L that the table would attach to. I haven t been able to find any designs that work around this.
> 
> Thoughts?
> - mthird


Show us a photo of the back of your fence that rides on the angle… lets figure something out..


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

> Loving my saw so far. Built William Ng s crosscut sled and now I m looking to add a folding outfeed table. Only issue I see is that the back of fence rides on the steel L that the table would attach to. I haven t been able to find any designs that work around this.
> 
> Thoughts?
> - mthird
> ...


Just took some photos of mine last night to brainstorm the same challenge. Have to excuse the mess


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Thanks, abraxxas. Nice bike!

I was considering four countersunk shallow, wide-head bolts from the top of the rear rail, but my concern is the remaining metal would be too thin.

Another option is mounting the front support directly to the cabinet using a bracket of some sort.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Odd, Abraxxas' images no longer show. I'll take a few and post them.


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## mthird (Nov 16, 2017)

Here is how the fence site directly on the rail:










This shows the gap between the fence and the table:


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)




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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Just get rid of the back rail and your problem is solved [*1*]... or flip it upside down to use as a mount point for your outfeed table.

[*1*] Yes, the rear of the fence rides on the rail… but it doesn't have to. Remove the 'knob' thingie and put a piece of UHMW or laminate on the bottom of the fence rail so it rides on the table like a Biesemeyer does. On the Biesemeyer, the rear fence is not required and basically only used to mount an extension table.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

Yeah they disappeared from my first post… thanks mthird!

I was thinking of fabricating/welding up some sort of simple attachment points that would be held on by the rail bolts. Could get some longer ones if you had to depending on how thick of metal or wood one uses. Angle iron, flat stock, square tubing etc would all work. Thats as far as I have gotten so far


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

> [snip] Remove the knob thingie and put a piece of UHMW or laminate on the bottom of the fence rail so it rides on the table like a Biesemeyer does. On the Biesemeyer, the rear fence is not required and basically only used to mount an extension table.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


THIS is what I was probably going to suggest. 
I'm in the same boat, I will be building a TS Station where the rear table surface extends over the motor of my contractor's saw and I have a Delta 36T30-T3 that "hooks over but doesn't clamp to" the back rail. I was just going to remove it and install some UHMWPE glide strips on the bottom of the rip fence.


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## Greg1950 (Nov 30, 2015)

Maybe I'm wrong, I thought I read some one suggested getting rid of the back rail? I would be a little nervous about removing the back rail. It helps support both extension tables. Helps tie it altogether. With it gone, what happens when you slide you fence all the way to the right. Why would they spend the money for it when most manufactures of any product would be happy to reduce parts and cost that aren't needed? 
I plan on attaching mine to the rail and leave a gap so "slid thingy" can still slid through. I can't think of a case where what ever is going to the out feed table couldn't span the small gap at that point?


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

I've got the Grizzly mentioned above in August and still haven't gotten around to building a runout table. I have almost finished the filler table to the right of the right wing. At this point with some health issues about all i can do is planning. I'm thinking of a semi- permanent short runout table about 18 -22" that would handle most of my cuts, then for longer cuts rig up something in addition. 
As mentioned earlier i wouldnt try to remove the rear rail due to its' structural intent. What little time i've had with it it seems to be a great saw. When i get it completed if this thread is around i'll post pics.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

My attempt at a zero clearance insert. Started with a 2" maybe 2.5" PVC pipe. Cut it down the middle put it in the oven and flattened it out between two boards. Traced outline, cut to rough shape on band saw, and finished with router and flush trim bit. The thickness was almost perfect just had to sand the bottom a little to get it to sit flush with the table top. Extended the kerf cut using a scroll saw to accommodate the riving knife. The PVC flexed to much for my liking so I installed some wood strip stabilizers. On the left side I had to dremel out some of the wood where the motor and arbor lock out button will hit at full extension. Cut a piece of galvanized metal to replicate the latch on the back of the stock throat plate. Secured everything with CA glue. Just need to find a small magnet to put in the front of the insert and I think I'll call it done. This is my first table saw and obviously my first attempt at a zero clearance insert, any advice or critique is appreciated.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

> My attempt at a zero clearance insert. Started with a 2" maybe 2.5" PVC pipe. Cut it down the middle put it in the oven and flattened it out between two boards. Traced outline, cut to rough shape on band saw, and finished with router and flush trim bit. The thickness was almost perfect just had to sand the bottom a little to get it to sit flush with the table top. Extended the kerf cut using a scroll saw to accommodate the riving knife. The PVC flexed to much for my liking so I installed some wood strip stabilizers. On the left side I had to dremel out some of the wood where the motor and arbor lock out button will hit at full extension. Cut a piece of galvanized metal to replicate the latch on the back of the stock throat plate. Secured everything with CA glue. Just need to find a small magnet to put in the front of the insert and I think I ll call it done. This is my first table saw and obviously my first attempt at a zero clearance insert, any advice or critique is appreciated.


Nice work, looks great! I will be attempting one of these after I build my outfeed table. I love seeing other ideas.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> Just get rid of the back rail and your problem is solved [*1*]... or flip it upside down to use as a mount point for your outfeed table.
> 
> [*1*] Yes, the rear of the fence rides on the rail… but it doesn t have to. Remove the knob thingie and put a piece of UHMW or laminate on the bottom of the fence rail so it rides on the table like a Biesemeyer does. On the Biesemeyer, the rear fence is not required and basically only used to mount an extension table.
> 
> ...


I had a G0715P which had a similar design and now I am using a saw with traditional Bisemeyer fence.
The Grizzly's version is light years better than the second one. "the knob thingie" produces many times less friction and when I moved the fence at the front the back would move the same distance and the whole fence stayed square. 
With Bisemeyer that rides directly on the table moving the front does not necessarily moves the back unless you jump through the hoops, pressing the fence against front rail or something like that.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Merry Christmas everyone! 14 degrees outside. 68 in the shop.
Love the new saw!!!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Merry Christmas everyone! 14 degrees outside. 68 in the shop.
> Love the new saw!!!
> 
> - Easterlake


Merry Christmas to you! Nice shop and setup. Enjoy your new saw!


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

Merry Christmas to you and your families!!

My Christmas day project was a folding outfeed table for my saw. I tried to keep it as simple as possible and the easiest way I could think up to mount it were some plain old door hinges. I drilled one hole out so the larger of the two rear rail bolts could pass through, which are more than strong enough to support the table.




























My table consists of a piece of 3/4" white melamine with some oak strips on the bottom to stiffen it up and give my support strut something to mount to. I used my router to mill off the layer of melamine where I wanted to glue the oak strips on.




























I glued it all up and used some 3" oak around the edge to stiffen it up and protect the edges. I built up the mounting edge with 3 layers of the 3/4" oak for a sturdy rail to bolt it to the saw with. The bottom piece is wider so there is a lip that protrudes under the rear rail far enough to lay on the hinge plates and accept the screws. I gave the 3 outside edges a quick pass with a 1/4" roundover bit.




























It sits about 1/8" below the table with where the hinges sit. I could grind the top edge of the hinge off and move it up but I think it will be easier to just shim it level with some washers between the table and the hinge. I want to make some sort of a strut that will drop into an edge I mount on the side of the saw cabinet so I can roll it around without taking it down. Designing the drop leg and getting it and the table mounted will be next weekends project. I will extend the miter slots out into the table as well. I will post an update with some more photos once it is mounted.


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

Abraxxas:
good looking addition to a great saw.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Just built/delivered some end tables for my in-laws Christmas present. Turned out great! They wanted them painted…(I know, right?) but they turned out fantastic! Love my new saw! I failed to take pics of the tables, but will attach once I get some from the happy in-laws. Merry Christmas all!


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Nice shop pics, Easterlake and Abraxxas! Man, I'm envious of your spacious shops! I've got everything crammed into my single space shop garage. Key here is to have everything go in it's place when done using…ha. Grizzly sits in center of shop.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Baseballhack, did those PVC pipes smell bad when you were cooking in your oven? Be careful with inhaling that odor, as it is probably toxic…


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

Thanks guys! I love my saw too! It's my first one and I find myself looking for excuses to use it just about every weekend since I have had it.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

There was no smell. 350 for maybe ten minutes. Just enough to get pliable so I could roll it out and clamp it between two boards.



> Baseballhack, did those PVC pipes smell bad when you were cooking in your oven? Be careful with inhaling that odor, as it is probably toxic…
> 
> - pb33


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I noticed in the new Grizzly catalog I received in the mail today that Grizzly is now offering a zero clearance insert for our G0833P Table saw. Model number is: T23279.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Me too, Abraxxas! Weather is keeping me out of shop, but I do have a shop heater…. hmmm. I see myself in the shop tomorrow! ha.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

Quick photo update with the table mounted. I plan to design legs that are attached at the table side and the saw side so all I have to do is pull it up from the folded position and the legs fall into place when all the way up. Then to fold it down, just bump the center joint and let it down. I'm not quite sure how to accomplish exactly what I want yet so I just threw together some simple legs that rest on the mobile base for now. A little sanding, poly and mill the miter slots and it will be done.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

Very well done outfeed table.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

> Very well done outfeed table.
> 
> - AZWoody


Thank you!


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Excellent! I will be making one of these as well! Great work!


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

Has anyone found something to cap the guard hose when not in use. Does a regular pipe cap fit it?


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

I contacted Grizzly support about the zero clearance insert mentioned by pb33. Here is the reply:

"Thank you for your email dated December 27, 2017.

We are happy to assist you. We apologize but the T23279 Zero Clearance Insert will not fit the G0833P Table Saw. We are currently working to have one the near future that will work with this machine however we do not know the timetable of manufacture. You can fabricate one by using the regular insert as a template. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

Please do not hesitate to contact us if we may be of further assistance. You are a valued customer, and we look forward to hearing from you soon.

Sincerely,

Lisa
Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
EN #600598"

Hopefully they start making one soon.


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

Nicely done Abraham! Looks great!


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## Makeithappen (Nov 29, 2017)

Abraxxas⬆. (Autocorrect)


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

i ordered and received two zero clearance inserts to fit the Grizzly GO 833P from Slivers Mill - www.sliversmill.com 
716-685-4458
Haven't installed yet and fit isn't perfect, slight gaps all around but there is an adjustment screw. This is the one that fits the previous model Grizzly GO 715P


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Thanks David! I was double checking prior to ordering tonight and came to the same conclusion. They have it listed in their new catalog as working for saw, which is a bit disappointing. Will either make mine out of PVC like Baseballhack, or take mtwalton's advise above. Great work team! Saved a lot of us some headaches and returns!


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Awe man, I was all set to order up a G0771z and then I saw this thing!

For those that bought the G0833P, was the 0771z on your list? What made you choose the G0833P?

ETA:
damnit, I missed the pre-2018 price jump! I forgot about that! It looks like the 2018 G0771z costs what the 2017 G0833p did!


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I was looking at the G0690 and was getting ready to pull the trigger. Went to the site to see the saw and caught the sale on the G0833P. LOVE the saw! 2 HP is sufficient for what I do, and it all just worked out as planned.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

And, I have found that I use the dust collection tube for table top clean up. Haven't put the guard on yet. Use just with the riving knife.


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## Timmie99 (Mar 14, 2017)

Grizzly just changed to a new manufacturer who will able to keep up with demand. I just ran into this when I ordered my 15" Planer. There was a 6-weeks waiting period while they got up and running, I guess. Changes have been made which presumably is the reason for the discontinued models. Everything is backordered, I guess.


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## PRR (Jan 15, 2018)

I took delivery of a G0833P on Friday. Sunday started assembly. Everything was fine until I went to put the fence on-one leg of the U-shape that slips over the fence rail is bent in! So now I'm in a quandary-do I wait for Grizzly to replace (and apparently they will only send the part, which will mean completely disassembling and reassembling the fence).

I have a Biesemeyer fence laying around. Should I install it? I would have to drill at least four holes into the front of the Grizzly table. How difficult is it to drill and tap cast iron?


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I would let them know, and bend the u-shape, PRR. I really like the fence. The 0833P fence is dead on, on my saw. I really like it. If you fix the one that came with, I think you will be happy with it. However, if you have a Biesemeier laying around…. ha. Will Grizzly make you send the other one back? if so, then send it back. If not, then bend it back, carefully. What have you got to lose, right?


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## PRR (Jan 15, 2018)

I assume Grizzly is going to replace the part. The path of least resistance will be to switch over all of the parts and use the Grizzly fence, since I've heard good things about it.

Since I've had a few hours to look at but not use my new saw:

How to do you attach a sacrificial fence? I'm thinking of laminating two pieces of 3/4 baltic birch plywood, then routing a t-slot to match the slot on the extrusion.

Has anyone relocated the middle fastener on the fence towards the front so that the extrusion can be pulled clear of the blade to use for cutoffs (like a Unifence)?

Any reason not to relocate the exhaust port to the back?


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## Greg1950 (Nov 30, 2015)

Finished my outfeed table and extension. Not that different from others.

















I did cut a slit in the extension table to store the dust collector/blade gaurd. Keeps it out of the way but handy.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Is this literally all I need to change one of these over to 115v?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Circuit-Breaker-Rongfeng-RFLB-20A/T23999?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

I have been holding off ordering the saw to get 220 in the shop but if I can change it to 115 with an $8 part and a couple of minutes of re-wiring, I'm going to order tomorrow!


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Robs just that and change out the end of the plug.



> Is this literally all I need to change one of these over to 115v?
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/Circuit-Breaker-Rongfeng-RFLB-20A/T23999?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com
> 
> I have been holding off ordering the saw to get 220 in the shop but if I can change it to 115 with an $8 part and a couple of minutes of re-wiring, I m going to order tomorrow!
> ...


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Yep. That's all you need. Directions in the manual are pretty easy to follow. You'll need a different plug also. The one on the saw is for a 220 outlet.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Anyone have a link to a cord, or would i just cut the plug off the one that comes with the saw and replace with a 120v plug?

Or should i just buy a 25 foot 12/3 extension cord and cut the end off to wire it in?


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## RichBolduc (Jan 30, 2018)

Depending on the length that you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Pinfox-Universal-Appliance-Replacement-Supply/dp/B06XQZFD36/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1518012842&sr=8-11&keywords=110v+power+cord+15a


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Would that chord handle the current rating (16A Max Load)? The chord is only rated to 15A.



> Depending on the length that you need.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Pinfox-Universal-Appliance-Replacement-Supply/dp/B06XQZFD36/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1518012842&sr=8-11&keywords=110v+power+cord+15a
> 
> - RichBolduc


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

I needed my cord to be about 2 ft longer. I purchased both the wire and plug at Home Depot. They sell the exact wire by the foot. Make sure you purchase the same voltage (300v). Different voltage wire is a different thickness and will require some type of modification when threading into the on/off box.

You'll also need to replace the outlet (also at Home Depot)


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Pulled the trigger! G0833P, 120v breaker, and mobile base!

Super excited. I've been waiting 2.5 years since I moved into this house to get a table saw, mostly due to analysis paralysis and a bad experience with a Ridgid. This saw came along at the perfect time while I try to sort out whether or not I'm adding 220 to the shop.


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## RichBolduc (Jan 30, 2018)

Yeah it should be able to. They're somewhat under rated on power to cover their asses. Most likely it would only be plugged in to a 15A outlet anyways. If you go to a 20A outlet and breaker, then I believe the that you're required to go to a different 110V plug type with a horizontal blade on it. At least in my work experience that's what we've always been told. If you go with a 20A circuit, then you need a different receptacle and cord.

Rich



> Would that chord handle the current rating (16A Max Load)? The chord is only rated to 15A.
> 
> Depending on the length that you need.
> 
> ...


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

That's interesting to know. These cords aren't long enough for my shop anyway. But I have two 20 amp breakers that each have two outlets on them with 12/2 wiring, with one of the two being a gfci on each circuit. In both cases the gfci is a t-blade while the non gfci is not.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

> That's interesting to know. These cords aren't long enough for my shop anyway. But I have two 20 amp breakers that each have two outlets on them with 12/2 wiring, with one of the two being a gfci on each circuit. In both cases the gfci is a t-blade while the non gfci is not.
> 
> - Rob_s


I just wired my whole detached garage and from my research, only the first outlet needs to be a 20 amp outlet, all outlets after that one can be 15 amp. Both of my 20 amp 120v outlet circuits start with a 20 amp gfci that feeds 6 15 amp outlets each, alternating around the garage, so every other outlet is on the other circuit. It is all done in 12awg. My saw is on a 20 amp 240v circuit wired with 10awg. I cut a 15ft piece of 12awg heavy duty extension cord and put 240v ends on it to use with my saw. It stays cold to the touch even after extended use and I notice zero loss in power. The cord was from Northern Tool, I got 2 50 footers on sale for $26.99 each.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

That's great to know!

I think that with the saw re-wired to 120v I should be fine with a 12awg 25ft extension cord with the end cut off to wire into the saw.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Looks like I have an estimated arrival date of this Thursday! Arriving via UPS freight and I paid for the liftgate service.

I have a big 20' wide double gate so I'm hoping they are willing and able to back it in and up the driveway.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

My driver put saw where I wanted it, as I paid for lift gate service as well, Rob_s. I had him put it in my garage, then I left it there during setup and unpacking. Once you get it on the mobile base, it tracks quite well wherever you want it to go (paved path of course).


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

I kept my saw at factory wiring, as I wired shop with 20 and 30 amp 220 service.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Saw arrived today!

I was really nervous about the driver being a pain but he dragged it all the way up my 100 yard driveway into my workshop and dropped it off for me.

Is there a manual in the box(es) somewhere? I didn't find anything so far.

Also, I got the mobile base as well. should I just assemble that first and put the cabinet on that first? Seems like the most logical but not sure if I'm missing anything.

Not sure how long until I get the shop wired up to 220v so I'm going to have to use the new breaker for now when I set it up.


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

Some say it's easier to build the mobile base around the saw, but I just walked mine onto the base with a little help from some blocking. I would wait to install the wings after it's on the base. I waited a couple weeks to get 220 outlets and a sub panel in my garage. Seemed like forever.

Just now getting into working on a drop down runout table and a right side filler table. I think I've slowed down a lot since retiring.


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## chimpwoodshop (Mar 31, 2013)

Rob_s, you probably found it by now but I think the manual was in one of the boxes that was in the body of the say.

For the base, I think i put the saw on it and then put the wheels on with the help of some 2×4s. But you could probably just do what mtnwalton said, and assemble it first and then walk the saw on. Definitely do that before putting the wings on though.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

I actually haven't had a chance to do anything other than pull the cardboard off the saw. It came on Thursday and we are tied up all weekend. I'm hoping to get a bit of time tomorrow to monkey with it but I also have a project to finish that may come first. 
I'd like to at least get tw mobile base assembled and the cabinet up on that.


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## Naturalhoosier (Feb 14, 2018)

> I picked one up. Black Friday deal was too good to let go. I m sure there will be some issues but all the right boxes are checked and the price is right.
> 
> It ll take me a while to get it together but I ll post a review when I do.
> 
> - TRoebs00


Random question. Will this fit through a standard sized doorway in the shipping container?

Very novice here and my 'shop' is in my walk-out basement. I've been looking at the used market to upgrade from my 10-yr old entry level Craftsman for last 9 months but am pretty much frustrated with the junk in my area. Every once in a while a gem comes up but it's gone before I blink.

Anyway, long-story short, I'm eyeing the G0771 and wasn't sure if it could be placed on a hand-truck off the truck (i'd pay for the lift-gate service) and wheeled directly into my basement. Any thoughts would be appreciated.


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## Easterlake (Dec 19, 2016)

Kinda like Christmas morning when you were a kid, isn't it?


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## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

> Random question. Will this fit through a standard sized doorway in the shipping container?
> 
> Very novice here and my shop is in my walk-out basement. I ve been looking at the used market to upgrade from my 10-yr old entry level Craftsman for last 9 months but am pretty much frustrated with the junk in my area. Every once in a while a gem comes up but it s gone before I blink.
> 
> ...


When it comes it's on a skid and should be well packed with thick cardboard all over. The driver will probably use a pallet jack and I believe it will fit through most doorways unless it is undersized (less than 36"). the pallot jack may not though. Call Grizzly. Be sure to check for damage which happens too often with Grizzly. My first one came with major damage to the tilt shaft / trunnion / etc. Didn't refuse it because no damage was evident. This cost me about 10 days extra to swiitch out saws.


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## KWiK (Jan 1, 2016)

If you go to their site and open the specifications it shows this
Shipping Dimensions:
Carton #1
Type…............................................................................................................... Cardboard Box on Wood Skids
Content….............................................................................................................................................. Machine
Weight…................................................................................................................................................. 330 lbs.
Length x Width x Height….......................................................................................................... 30×26 x 44 in.
Must Ship Upright…...................................................................................................................................... Yes
Carton #2
Type…........................................................................................................................................ Cardboard Box
Content….................................................................................................................................................. Fence
Weight…................................................................................................................................................... 41 lbs.
Length x Width x Height…............................................................................................................ 66×16 x 6 in.
Must Ship Upright…...................................................................................................................................... Yes


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## Naturalhoosier (Feb 14, 2018)

Thank you both for the info. I think my mind is made up! I'm excited for the upgrade!



> When it comes it s on a skid and should be well packed with thick cardboard all over. The driver will probably use a pallet jack and I believe it will fit through most doorways unless it is undersized (less than 36"). the pallot jack may not though. Call Grizzly. Be sure to check for damage which happens too often with Grizzly. My first one came with major damage to the tilt shaft / trunnion / etc. Didn t refuse it because no damage was evident. This cost me about 10 days extra to swiitch out saws.
> 
> - mtnwalton





> If you go to their site and open the specifications it shows this
> Shipping Dimensions:
> Carton #1
> Type…............................................................................................................... Cardboard Box on Wood Skids
> ...


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

> Kinda like Christmas morning when you were a kid, isn t it?
> 
> - Easterlake


Ours were Christmas presents, Easterlake! ha. ;-)


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

slowly making progress. Electrician is coming tomorrow to do some other things and talk about getting me 240.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

You're going to love the saw, Rob_s!


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Electrician got me hooked up with 240v so now I'm on to assembly!

Wings and front rails are on, now to do the back rail, fence, and tuning!


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Hey Rob, is that the shopfox mobile base? If so, why did you choose it over the Grizzly base?


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

I didn' t know what I was choosing. When I bought the saw I clicked on the base that the website had as a suggested accessory.

Had I seen this one I probably would have gotten it instead. 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/-Bear-Crawl-Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/T28000


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Hmm… any other reason besides -$20 less that you would've chosen the Grizzly base?

I like the way the shopfox one looks better. Also, I read that the grizzly base is higher on the Caster side buy a half inch or so


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

I doubt anyone has tried this saw on both the 240v and 110v, but there shouldn't be any discernable difference in power or longevity to the motor, right?

My knowledge of electricity and differences in voltage is pretty basic, but it's my understanding that the motor has basically two legs to run on with a 240, and one leg for the 110. But what that actually means in the tangible sense, I'm not really sure.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

There is no difference between running on 120V and 240V. Full stop. The motor has two sets of windings. The total power output is the same in either case.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

When I purchased the shop fox mobile base with my 0833 saw, the Grizzly mobile base was out of stock. I had previously purchased the shop fox mobile bases for other tools, which I was familiar with the quality and was happy with the shop fox mobile base for my new table saw. Hopes this helps you, Muhahmed. Also, there is no difference with the voltage on wear and tear on motor as far as hookups. I do know that the saw would probably bog down more in 110 mode. As Tim Allen would say, "More Power" is always better than less power!


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

It isn't more power on 240V. It's more voltage, less amperage, and exactly the same amount of power.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Thank you for both for your feedback. I figured that would be the case with the difference in voltage. I'd love to run it on 220, but my panel is fully utilized and I definitely don't feel like spending another 2K or so to get another panel. Getting electrical work is usually expensive, but everything in California is multiplied. the only thing running 220v in my shop is my Clearvue DC.

I can't wait to by the saw, but for now the comments and pictures will have to satiate me until I can gather enough change.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> There is no difference between running on 120V and 240V. Full stop. The motor has two sets of windings. The total power output is the same in either case.
> 
> - jonah


That's my theoretical understanding too…the motor windings are either running in parallel or in series, so they see the same voltage regardless of whether supplied by 120v or 240v….that's the theory. However that theoretical scenario overlooks real world voltage losses of the supply lines that can cause sluggish startup, slow recovery from load, and excess heat in the windings.

It's not uncommon to find a 120v circuit that's not quite capable of delivering full amperage under heavy load without some voltage drop, especially in older homes, which can be due to other appliances being on the circuit, old wire, small wire, too many junctions, long runs, poor connections, etc. A 240v supply is less likely to suffer from those symptoms because the current draw is shared across two legs, so depending on the particular motor and the particular circuit in question, many will find that running the same saw on 240v supply line will help the saw run as it should, which can result in faster startups, faster recovery from load, and less heat….even though it's not really more powerful on 240v, it can give the illusion of it.

It can also be argued that a suitable 120v circuit will behave the same way….and that's true, but if new supply lines are going to be run, not only is 240v cheaper to install because the smaller gauge wire can be used, only a 240v line benefits from having current supplied from both hot legs of the household supply, which tends to prevent that line from ever being near it's 100% capacity, which makes it less likely to suffer from voltage drop in the motor.

I know this debate can be, and has been argued ad nauseam, but I did want to point out the significant difference between what the motor windings see, and what the supply lines can actually deliver.


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## DustySocksWorkshop (Jan 7, 2018)

I would like to know how everybody feels about the saw's power? I'm currently stuck between the G0833P and the G1023RL, which has a 3HP motor and much beefier internals which contribute to about 90 more pounds of heft. Has anybody put any 8/4 to 12/4 thick hardwoods through their saw? How did it perform?

I am a hobbyist woodworker and my garage serves as both woodshop and car maintenance area. I feel that this saw's lighter weight (vs the G1023RL) will make it more manageable to move around when the car needs to come inside. I am upgrading from a 1985 model year 1hp Craftsman "113" contractor saw.

Thanks for all the great info you guys have already posted.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The difference in mobility will be negligible, so I wouldn't let that be a deciding factor at all.

I upgraded from a very capable 1.75hp hybrid saw to a 3hp Shop Fox (the equivalent of a G1023SL). Even though the hybrid saw could cut everything I needed, and I really liked the saw, the difference in power and use is very noticeable. The smaller motor is much easier to bog, so you need to adjust the feed rate to a pace the saw can handle. The smaller motor is also much more sensitive to blade selection and alignment….it did notably better with a good 3/32" thin kerf blade. The 3hp motor doesn't seem to care what blade I use, or what pace I feed. If your budget can handle the upgrade, the G1023RL is in a different league, and is a great bang for the buck. I doubt you'd ever regret doing the upgrade, but you might regret not.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

I've lived in three 80+ year old houses, and I've never had an electrical panel not capable of delivering a full 15A (or 20A, depending on the circuit) at 120V, under load. I'm not saying such a thing can't exist, but they're far from common.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

*re: mobile base:*
the reason I'd have preferred the Grizzly mobile base is the kick-down locks vs the screw-down of the Shop Fox mobile base.

*re: G0833P vs G1023RL:*
There's a ~$400 base price increase for the bigger saw. For *me* that was a bridge too far. I started my table saw journey with a Ridgid at $700 and the G0833P was already double that (with delivery, etc.). I also wasn't sure I was going to get 240V in the shop, so buying the G0833P hedged my bets.

*re: voltage:*
Having the G0833P on 240v vs 120v, to my understanding, is the amps issue with the saw set to 120v it's maxing out the amps. 16 amps on 120V for running means a 20a circuit and at startup or bogging you *could* pop that. One of my 20amp circuits was occasionally popping when my chop saw and shop fan were both running.

The other reason I like the 240v is that is ensures I only have the saw on that circuit. This could be accomplished with a dedicated 120v but by the time you do that work you might as well do 240v.


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## DustySocksWorkshop (Jan 7, 2018)

Thanks for your reply knotscott. You say your old hybrid could cut everything you needed, but how do you define that?

I'm about to admit my impatience, but my trouble at the moment is the G1023s are out of stock until May and my acquisitons window with my pregnant wife is currently open.

There are a few other factors also…

I see the G0833 has an extra fence adjustment compared to the G1023. Can you owners comment on the fence versus a shop fox fence?

The G0833 also appears to have perhaps a slightly better dust collection path (and a larger intermediate hose) in the blade shroud area. Somebody tell me how their dust collection performs.

Now for my dumbest comment: I like the white cabinet versus the green.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Thanks for your reply knotscott. You say your old hybrid could cut everything you needed, but how do you define that?
> 
> ...
> - LobaLoba


With good blade choice, good setup, and flat straight wood, the 1.75hp would rip through 12/4" hardwood at a fairly reasonable pace. It would however labor more while doing it. The 3hp motor just chews through the same material much more easily. It's important to get what you want, for whatever reason you want it, but had I not experienced a 3hp cabinet saw vs the 1.75hp hybrid, I don't think I would have realized just how much of a difference there was. 3hp is not mandatory, but it sure is nice to have.

I also want to emphasize just how much beefier a 3hp cabinet saw is compared to most 1.75hp hybrids. Again, that doesn't mean a good hybrid is under built, but there's a notable difference in the feel during use that goes beyond just motor power …everything from the hand wheels to the overall mass of the saw is more robust. I think an analogy of an S10 to a Silvarado 3500 is fair a comparison.

If you view your saw as nothing more than a tool to cut wood at a typical hobby level, a hybrid is up for the job. If you're the kind of guy who enjoys owning, using, upgrading, and taking care of the tool as an important extension of a hobby, or you tend push the tool hard on a regular basis, then I'd put more emphasis on the heavier duty saw.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Sounds like the Grizzly base is more convenient with the foot pedals, so i'll probably be doing that as well. I will be running 120 to it though, and I've wired it using 12/3 with a 20amp breaker so it should be solid enough. i guess i'll find out once I try it out under load.

one more thing is to figure out if it would be worth it (for health concerns) if it would be beneficial enough to re-do the plumbing on the saw for 6" dust collection. my shop is all 6". see the pic.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

4" at the rear of the saw and 4" (12.5 sq inches each) above the blade is almost exactly the same area as a 6" pipe (28 sq inches)...

I'd totally rework it that way if I had a 6" trunk coming near the saw.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

I assume that if I can't get to 45 then the top needs shimmed?


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

Did you adjust the stop?



> I assume that if I can't get to 45 then the top needs shimmed?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Found the stop after I posted!


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

First startup.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

first startup


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Looks good Rob. Just got my tax return… time for a new saw. >

Do any of you have the "Tenryu GM-25540 10 40t combo gold medal blade ? Looks like a great general purpose, but its not full kerf. its off by a tiny .11 of an inch. I'm trying to make up my mind if that is enough of a difference to cause an issue with the RK. what do you guys think?

What about a ripping and finishing blade. I'm off to check knottscotts blade post for some guidance. but please share your thoughts.


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

I have that blade. It has served me well so far. Haven't ran any serious hardwood past it yet and this is my first table saw. So take my opinion for what its worth. KnotScott recommended the blade and I haven't regretted it.


> Looks good Rob. Just got my tax return… time for a new saw. >
> 
> Do any of you have the "Tenryu GM-25540 10 40t combo gold medal blade ? Looks like a great general purpose, but its not full kerf. its off by a tiny .11 of an inch. I m trying to make up my mind if that is enough of a difference to cause an issue with the RK. what do you guys think?
> 
> ...


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> Looks good Rob. Just got my tax return… time for a new saw. >
> 
> Do any of you have the "Tenryu GM-25540 10 40t combo gold medal blade ? Looks like a great general purpose, but its not full kerf. its off by a tiny .11 of an inch. I m trying to make up my mind if that is enough of a difference to cause an issue with the RK. what do you guys think?
> 
> ...


The manual says not to use a blade less than .102". Given that .100 seems to be a comming thing-kerf measurement the requirement seems to me to be trying to specifically eliminate those blades (why they couldn't just make the riving knife .004 narrower is beyond me).

The blade you linked to is .111 so should be fine. I may grab one myself.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

I'd really like to hear from folks with this saw regarding the use of blades <0>m also pretty new to table saws and could be missing something.

Would running the riving knife over a belt sander to lean it out make a difference?


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## DustySocksWorkshop (Jan 7, 2018)

> The manual says not to use a blade less than .102". Given that .100 seems to be a comming thing-kerf measurement the requirement seems to me to be trying to specifically eliminate those blades (why they couldn't just make the riving knife .004 narrower is beyond me).
> 
> - Rob_s


Ridge Carbide, Forrest and Freud thin kerf blades measure at 0.9375" nominal thickness, so I wouldn't call .100 "common".

A number of factors could be at play in the riving knife thickness situation. One thing to consider is how a thinner riving knife will not provide a favorable margin of safety if the combination of a full kerf blade and a thin kerf riving knife were used.

The knife in this scenerio would need to be a maximum of 0.092" thick. The closest sheet metal gauge thickness is 13 gauge at 0.0897".

So with a standard (0.125") blade and the stock (0.1) riving knife are used together, there is a 0.025" delta. With a standard blade and a thin knife, your delta increases 0.010" to 0.035" total which diminishes your safety margin. Just something to consider…

All that being said, I'm not sure if other brands sell thin kerf knives to replace the originals that came with their saws (somebody enlighten me). I can say that my Bosch jobsite saw has a riving knife that works flawlessly with thin kerf blades. I do not know how thick it is.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Jet, at least, makes a thin kerf replacement riving knife.

http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/riving-knife-low-profile-thin-kerf-for-deluxe-xacta-saw/708684


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## Baseballhack (Jun 4, 2017)

I read previously not sure in what post that someone talked to Grizzly about a thin kerf riving knife. There response was something to the effect that going any thinner would degrade the stability of the riving knife. If they make it thinner it could flex and in effect make the riving knife useless and cause kickback. Not sure what post it was in, could have been this one. Believe it also said Grizzly has no intention of making a think kerf riving knife for this saw.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Finally, my new additions are here…


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

The Tenryu GM-25540 blade seems to get good reviews (including from the Wood Whisperer) and is billed at being .110 so within the range of the Grizzly manual.

I'm torn between that and just going with the full-kerf Forrest Woodworker II ATB.

In either case I'm planning on getting the Forrest Woodworker II #1 grind for flat-bottom cuts.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

hmm…. not sure why the pic didn't show from my last post. trying again…


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> The Tenryu GM-25540 blade seems to get good reviews (including from the Wood Whisperer) and is billed at being .110 so within the range of the Grizzly manual.
> 
> I m torn between that and just going with the full-kerf Forrest Woodworker II ATB.
> 
> ...


You won't be able to distinguish between the cuts from the WWII 40T and the Tenryu Gold Medal, but the 0.125" full kerf WWII will tax your saw more, plus will cost another $34 (> 33% more). For flat bottom cuts you can pickup an FTG rip blade for a bunch less than the WWII #1 grind, plus you'll have an efficient blade for thick ripping when the time comes. Good blades can really make a difference in how well your saw performs, but since you're relatively new to table saws, I'd think through what you need a bit more before just throwing a bunch of money at it. Two 40T WWII will set you back quite a bit….even though they are good blades, they are a general purpose type blade that won't do well in either extreme of thick ripping and fine crosscuts/ply cuts. You can end up spending > $250 on blades and not have the ability to rip thick stock efficiently or make glass smooth cuts in ply and fine crosscuts. IMO it'd pretty easy to spend a lot less to accomplish the same thing, or cover more of the cutting spectrum.

Regarding riving knife thickness matching correctly with the blade, it's important that the blade and knife pass through the work piece without binding, but you can always count on some runout from the blade and the arbor to provide a bit of wiggle room to the calculation. I think you can also take a tiny bit of thickness out of the knife with some light sanding without major structural compromise.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

So you think the Tenryu would be a better place to start for this saw?

I'm not buying everything all at once. I have routers that can get me a flat bottom for now when I need it. I'm just thinking ahead towards the later purchase.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> So you think the Tenryu would be a better place to start for this saw?
> 
> I m not buying everything all at once. I have routers that can get me a flat bottom for now when I need it. I m just thinking ahead towards the later purchase.
> 
> - Rob_s


It covers the same cutting range, is comparable quality, is easier for your saw to spin, and costs $33 less, so yeah….seems like a better buy to me than the 40T WWII full kerf.

I'd also consider the CMT Industrial 214.040.10 from Holbren for ~ $35…..high quality blade, 0.102" kerf, and leaves money for other blades once you learn more about what you need/want.

Another excellent choice is the 60T Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB for $60 - 0.104" kerf, superb ply crosscuts, outstanding finish for most general purpose cuts, including rip cuts up to about 1"....not intended for very thick ripping, but is otherwise a top notch choice IMO….would be a great mate to a rip blade. (video of the 010-060)


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

The Forrest can be had for only Ft more then the Tenryu, so the price difference there isn't that big.

I'm not familiar with the other two. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to look into them.

I tend to like to buy the best I can so that later when I have a problem I know that it's me, not the equipment. I know that if I buy a cheaper blade and then later get chipping or burning I'll think "goddamn cheap blade" vs if I get the same results with the Forrest I'll think "well, guess this is the best I can expect". I can afford a $100+ blade so my thought was to go that route but I'll follow your links to the other two and take a look.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> The Forrest can be had for only Ft more then the Tenryu, so the price difference there isn't that big.
> 
> I'm not familiar with the other two. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to look into them.
> 
> ...


"Best" is always a subjective term, and depends a lot on what the cutting objective is. Forrest was arguably among the best 30 years ago. Saw blade technology isn't rocket science, and several manufacturers now offer more performance for the same or less money. Forrest hasn't exactly rested on their reputation in recent years, and they still make excellent blades, but they aren't advancing the cutting edge of the technology either. Having tried and tested over 70 blades, including several from Forrest, Infinity, Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, CMT, Freud, Amana, Delta Industrial, DW, Systematic, and Leitz, IMHO Infinity now offers some of the best made blades on the market….their precision manufacturing, coatings, carbide, brazing, steel, tensioning, tooth geometries, and sharpening processes are tough to beat.

*Tips for Picking Saw Blades*


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Finally finished putting them together. Now to start building some tables for the other tools…


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Nice! Which router insert is that?

One thing to keep in mind, as I discovered this weekend, is that the mobile base appears to put the saw out of level when the screws are engaged. Not a big deal in terms of running the saw, but I built an outfeed table that I measured off the high end of the top only to discover that it's too high at the low end of the top. Now I have to cut down some legs.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

It's a Bosch router table (RA1181)...minus the bottom part of the table. It's a decent table insert and has served me well.

Yeah, I noticed that too. Not ideal, but other than that, it is an affordable base for the money.

As far as the outfeed table, I'm thinking of building and attaching it to the back of the saw as some other members here have done.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Does anyone know if board buddies would work with the G0833P fence?

I've never used them, or featherboards for that matter, but I am looking to step my game up so I would like to employ easy add-ons that make life easier, and safer.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> Another excellent choice is the 60T Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB for $60 - 0.104" kerf, superb ply crosscuts, outstanding finish for most general purpose cuts, including rip cuts up to about 1"....not intended for very thick ripping, but is otherwise a top notch choice IMO….would be a great mate to a rip blade. (video of the 010-060)
> 
> - knotscott


Question on this choice…

So the 60T for "general purpose" up to 1", the 24T for ripping thicker material, what about cross-cutting thicker material? the 60T? I notice Infinity mentions using that blade on chop saws so I'm assuming it's good to go for >2" crosscuts in solid wood.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Another excellent choice is the 60T Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB for $60 - 0.104" kerf, superb ply crosscuts, outstanding finish for most general purpose cuts, including rip cuts up to about 1"....not intended for very thick ripping, but is otherwise a top notch choice IMO….would be a great mate to a rip blade. (video of the 010-060)
> 
> - knotscott
> 
> ...


Yep…should be good on all hardwood crosscuts…and plywood too. It rips very cleanly to about an 1", depending on the material, then has more tendency to burn on thicker stuff. 24T will rip to full blade height with less heat/burning. Its a very versatile blade…one of my all time favorites.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

The 24T is showing as .097 kerf. Below the threshold. Thoughts?


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> The 24T is showing as .097 kerf. Below the threshold. Thoughts?
> 
> - Muhammed


there's two.

From what I understand, full kerf in ripping and non-through-cuts is less of an issue

10" Table Saw Ripping Blade - Full Kerf
IN STOCK
5/8" 10" 24 .125"


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Which wire to which screw? Got green white and black wires, silver, gold, and green screws.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

> Which wire to which screw? Got green white and black wires, silver, gold, and green screws.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Black = hot goes to brass color
White = neutral goes to silver color
Green = ground goes to green


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> Which wire to which screw? Got green white and black wires, silver, gold, and green screws.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok, thanks!

How about now? The other plug was wrong but me and now I only have two brass.


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## OG17 (Mar 25, 2018)

Hello gentlemen. New member here from S. Fla. Just retired from the school system (teacher & administrator) after 34 years and going to keep active in a variety of ways including making sawdust. Had a Craftsman 22116 hybrid whose blade tilt worm gear tore apart recently. Tried to replace it but to no avail since parts are no longer made for it anywhere. In searching for a replacement I came across the G0833P and I'm very much interested in it. I have some questions for those of you that have it:

1. I won't have 220v for the foreseeable future, so I'll be running it at 115v. Is it necessary to switch to the 5-20 plug or can I use a 14g 3-pronged cord rated at 330v instead.

2. I not a fan of the Unifence style fence it comes with, I prefer the Biesemeyer or Shop Fox style, but how has this one worked for you. Are the stock rails compatible with any of the other brands of fences? I guess I can always switch at a later date if I'm not happy with it.

3. Has anyone had an issue with a warped/dished table and/or wings?

Thanks for your time and I look to learning a whole bunch from the membership.


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## OG17 (Mar 25, 2018)

Rob_s,

Looking on page 76 of the manual it shows that when looking at the plug with the ground lug on the bottom, that the white wire (neutral) goes on the horizontal lug and the black (hot) goes on the vertical lug. The green wire (ground) goes on the green screw.


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## Abraxxas (Nov 17, 2017)

> Which wire to which screw? Got green white and black wires, silver, gold, and green screws.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are you wiring for 240v or 110v? A 240v plug has two brass fittings and one green for ground, or two hots and a ground. A 110v will have one hot, one neutral and one ground. If it's 240v as long as the two hots are on the brass and the green is on the ground you are golden, either hot can go to either brass.

With 110v, black must go to brass, white must go to silver and green to ground.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

That's a 220V plug. (one lead is sideways) 25A. Thus both connections being brass.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Got it sorted. The original plug was a 120 I was trying to use for 240. Got the right plug and got it wired up. 20' cord got the saw right where I wanted it.


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Nice setup, Rob_s! Glad you were able to get it running. I think you will LOVE the saw!


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

quick question as I'm not in front of my saw, but is there a particular clamp to use that would/could best engage with the slots on the fence?


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Not sure, as I have a piece of wood that I use with clamps to the fence for zero clearance and thin cuts. Got the clamps from Rockler.

As much to do about the fence compared to a beisenmeyer type, I love this fence, as it gives you an option to use if inclined to do.


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## jsk12 (Nov 23, 2016)

is it possible to purchase just the blade guard/dust collection system for the grizz 0833p saw?

thanks


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## pb33 (Nov 28, 2017)

Also not sure, phillywoodwork. I would contact Grizzly and see if they will sell you just a part, as every part has a number. I don't have my owners manual and IPB in front of me, but assume you can find part number from online searching and call to Grizzly. Very helpful people.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Almost done… just poly and miter slots left. This was more work than I expected, and it is heavier than I expected too.


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## KEVMO11 (Mar 20, 2018)

If anyone is interested, A Grizzly G0883P is currently for sale on Facebook Marketplace in the Atlanta Area. Comes with a shop fox mobile base and dado set. He is asking $1000. I know Grizzly has been having some back order issues so I thought I would share.


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## KV3 (Nov 17, 2017)

> Almost done… just poly and miter slots left. This was more work than I expected, and it is heavier than I expected too.


@Muhammed - looks great! any chance you'd be willing to share the plans?


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Here is one from of our members:
http://lumberjocks.com/WoodJediNTraining/blog/34635

This is the source:

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/building-outfeed-table-mount-table-stand-support/
There is a pdf of it online somewhere.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

Here's another folding version that I briefly considered for mine





I ultimately went with an up-sized (4'x5') version of this, with 6 legs and leveling feet. I'm going to top mine with some hardboard to protect the plywood and make it a bit slipperier.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Finally done. Works beautifully. I upgraded the bolt Since it is the most crucial joint


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Looks great Mohammed


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Thanks! Now for some garage workbenches…


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## RRFaraday (Mar 8, 2018)

Placed the order today.


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## RRFaraday (Mar 8, 2018)

Arrived today.


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

So I ordered the WWII before the above discussion about the Infinity blades. Then I ordered the Infinity blades thinking I could sell the WWII if I had to. I got the package from Inifinty, stashed it somewhere in my office or shop, and can't find them.

So, this past weekend I installed the 0-clearance insert the WWII. Thought I'd share a couple of thoughts and experiences.

The blade installed with no issues, as expected. I shot a quick slow-motion video on my phone to try and check for wobble and I couldn't see any.

The Insert… there were some challenges.
1) The mount for the blade (sorry I don't know the right term) to the left interferes with the insert. it comes up too high and hits the bottom of the insert, pushing it up. I hogged out some of it with my dremel but eventually got bored of messing with it.
2) The slot for the riving knife (obviously) isn't cut through. I couldn't come up with a great way to cut it and after messing around trying to cut through with a utility knife I drilled a 1/4" hole at the far back of the slot and then cut out the rest with the chop saw.
3) Even with all of that, the back of the riving knife rubbed on the slot. I tried relieving it with a file but that was getting tedious so I took it back over to the drill press and drilled a second 1/4" hold about 1/8" further back and that did it.

Below are some photos of the cuts and grinds I made to the insert

top side of riving knife slot









bottom side of riving knife slot









grinding I did to get the… arbor?... some more clearance when the blade is raised









everything installed


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## RyanSTL (May 31, 2018)

Hi All,

I bought the G0833p in mid November and have used it for a few projects here and there I will list few things I have noticed / done with the saw and then have some questions.

My thoughts to confirm what has been said this far is that:
1) The fence is accurate and has good "repeatability" and adjusted with ease.

2) Cuts are clean, I have ripped quite a few old cedar boards down using the stock blade. I have also tried it out on purebond plywood and it does a decent job, but tearout on the backside when ripping (all over when crosscutting). But overall a decent blade seems to come with the saw as long as you use it for its intended purpose (not crosscutting plywood )

3) Speaking of blades, I am using a Freud 10" x 80T Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Blade (LU80R010) for crosscutting plywood. This is full kerf. I ended up here because I did not want to get a second riving knife or modify the stock one and have had good luck with Diablo blades in the past. It has also been extremely handy thus far to know the blade is 1/8" when setting up the fence on some cuts.

4) Make sure the riving knife is adjusted properly. At some point, mine got out of wack and was pulling all cuts slightly away from the fence.

Mod's I have made:
1) I built Jay Bates Router Lift XL into the extension wing - removing one of the wings in the process. 
2) I also made a zero clearance insert. The slot for the riving knife was a pain. I ended up using a dremel attachment. Not the cleanest, but not bad and it works. I started with the Grizzly T23279 insert.

Question:
1) Looking at Muhammed's saw setup has given me lots to think about. I noticed he moved the dust collection to the other side of the saw. I was wondering if there are any drawbacks to this and how to best accomplish making the hole in the left side of the base. I am rethinking the DC duct design and it would be simpler to come from the wall instead of the ceiling.


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## Muhammed (Feb 28, 2018)

Hey Ryan,

I did make a hole on the other side of the base, but I ended up going back to the original setup due to a restructuring of my workshop. No difference either way. I cut the hole by first drilling a pilot hole and cutting the rest with a jigsaw (use ear protection!).

Let me know if you have any questions, and I'll help if i can. good luck!



> Hi All,
> 
> I bought the G0833p in mid November and have used it for a few projects here and there I will list few things I have noticed / done with the saw and then have some questions.
> 
> ...


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## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

re: the hole, I've been looking at this too. I think I want to try and put mine out the back, under the outfeed table, as the stock location under the right side wing means it's kind of a pain to try and build any sort of storage under there.

As of now I don't have any sort of dust collection connected so it's not killing me but…


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## MikeinMD (Mar 3, 2011)

I apologize to resurrect this post, however, I have a chance to get a brand new fence from the G0833P saw to mount on my Ridgid R4511 granite saw and was wondering if someone can take some measurements for me of bolt hole locacation on saw and fence parts.

Please PM me or reply.


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