# Makita 2030 planer jointer help



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I have a Makita 2030 planer/jointer that I'm going to do a full restoration on. I would typically seek assistance over at OWWM, but even the mention of an asian machine over there will get you tarred and feathered  I'm hoping that I can get some guidance from some of the members here who have already gone down this road. In return, I hope that I can offer the same to others who are working on any of the machines that I have had experience on.

Update: This is a rather old thread. To see an update, check here: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/65688

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## oluf (Jan 29, 2010)

I have only had mine for thirty years so it is not due for any restoration work yet. Ten years ago I did replace the planer drive rollers. These rollers are the only week spot on the unit. Did you get the tool kit with it? Did you get a manual? I have a Makita flat surfase wet grinder and sharpen my blades. When you set your blades make sure to set them proud of the out feed table and the planer top opening. You want your leveling block to move 1/8" to 3/8" as the blade passes the upper apex of it's arc. I recommend that you clean it good. Set sharp blades proud and run it hard.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Thanks Oluf! Mine was actually in pretty rough shape when I got it.. and while it did run, it had been badly neglected and the drive rollers had no rubber left on them at all..










It's in a zillion pieces now, but I still haven't figured out how to separate the head, posts and base.. I've been soaking them down with PB blaster and WD40 for the last few weeks but they still will not budge (and yes, I did take out the spring pins!). These are the last few pieces I need to get apart so I can begin media blasting and painting. I'm usually pretty good at figuring out how things come apart, but this one has me about stumped.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

*When you set your blades make sure to set them proud of the out feed table and the planer top opening.*

I was curious about this statement as it goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the blades level with the out feed table. So I decided to break out the dial indicator and do a little measuring  What I noticed is that when the cutter head lock is in place, the blades are just slightly in front of TDC. I leveled the jointer blades like stated in the manual and double checked with the indicator. Sure enough, when locked and leveled in that fashion, the blades are dead level with the out feed table, but about 0.002" proud at TDC. I didn't bother checking the planer blades and simply verified with the indicator that they were both exactly the same height (to within 0.0005") after leveling.

I imagine that this would work well for new (or freshly sharpened) blades as the cutting edge will wear slightly after initial use. 0.002" of wear? I dunno.. I'll check on them with the indicator every now and then after some use to see what they do. Just for grins, I also set them dead level at TDC to see if there was any difference in performance. None that I could detect, and the slightly lower blades produced just as straight an edge as the blades set a few thousandths higher. They also moved the leveling block forward about 1/8", which is about a half of what the higher blades did at 1/4".

And no, I don't have the tool kit. For the leveling blocks, I'm using some oak blocks that I fabricated up myself and made sure were perfectly flat. I have to admit, this is about the easiest machine to set blades on that I have ever owned and so far has been a joy to use.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## Nur (Nov 2, 2010)

Hello Brad -

Have you had any luck figuring out how to remove the jointer from the planer body (and the posts)? I've got a similar situation. The poly belt broke on mine, and as best as I can figure, I've got to pull the jointer in order to change the belt.

I got the jointer cutterhead off without any problems, and removed the four bolts which fasten the jointer to the planer. But, there's two pins that don't allow the jointer to slide up off of the posts. Very confusing. If you (or anyone else) has any advice, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

Nur


----------



## roptics (Oct 27, 2012)

I posted the exact same question an hour ago. I got the intake bed off easy enough. Jut trying to get the jointer removed from the main body. I removed the four bolts holding the jointer portion into the main unit but nothing budges.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Still haven't got it apart.. been lazy on it, just squirting it down with penetrating oil every day for the last month or so.. The jointer part does have two locater pins that align and hold it in place along with the bolts, meaning that it must be removed straight off to the side. Unfortunately, you can't do that while the posts are still in place, so that is where I'm stuck at the moment as well. I fortunately have another 2030 that I've been using, so it hasn't really been a pressing issue.

As for the belt replacement, I don't believe you have to remove anything.. I'm pretty sure you can just loosen things up on each side and separate the two couplers enough to squeeze the belt between them, then re-tighten. I remember reading a post about the procedure somewhere but can't find it at the moment. Sounds reasonable though based on what I see from my disassembly. If you already have the cutter head removed (on either side) though, it seems like you should be able to put the belt on easily.

The one good aspect of tearing both sides apart, for me at least, was that I discovered that the bearings were in really terrible shape and desperately needed replacement. If you do take it all apart, I'd recommend replacing them even if they appear to be good.. you really don't want to go through the process again!

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## JeffeVerde (Jan 11, 2011)

Has anyone photo-documented their tear-down and reassembly of the 2030? I'm picking up a neglected 2030 this weekend that looks to be in need of a complete makeover.


----------



## sawdustmonkey (Jul 2, 2013)

I just recently put new rollers on my 2030 and they are way better than the originals and exchanged some of the bolts with new bolts or Allen headed bolts. I picked up a belt but didn't see an easy way to slip it in as described above, so I'm storing that belt until I have to do that project and hoping someone leads the way with some pictures.

If you need your rollers resurfaced, send your old rollers here, tell them your model and they will send them back surfaced which are better than new:
Sales Manager 
Western Roller Corp.
63393 Nels Anderson Rd.
Bend, OR 97701
Ph. 800-541-2317 or 541-382-5643
Fax 541-382-0159 
[email protected]


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I've been taking pictures along the way.. I use them to figure out how everything goes back together 

I had my feed rollers redone by Western Roller.. fantastic job and gave me a call several weeks after the job to make sure everything was done correctly. I do recommend them.

I've seen the drive belts on e-bay, but for what I consider an outrageous amount of money.. both mine are fine for now, but I would like to have a backup just in case. Where did you find the belt and how much was it?

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## Alred (Jul 7, 2013)

Makita 2030 Anyone know the best approach for removing the feed rollers? I am thinking one would remove the chain and gear first then remove the screws and collar. Don't want to tear it apart without understanding the best approach.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Yup.. pull the chain, remove the c-clips and yank the gears first. After that, you just remove the retaining screws to drop the bearings and springs. Many people (including myself) have found those little screws quite a bugger to remove and some have even replaced them with torx or hex heads to make it easier in the future. I found that an appropriate sized phillips bit in a 1/4" socket wrench provides all the torque needed to remove them fairly easily.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## Alred (Jul 7, 2013)

Hey Brad thanks


----------



## kimby (Aug 21, 2012)

It's been a long time since anyone has written but I am hoping to get a reply from you folks out there in "lumber land".
Does any one know the outside diameter(OD) of the rubber feed rollers on the a kit a 2030? Can someone go out and measure for me?
I had mine recovered locally and the guy took the OD off the original rollers in an undamaged area. Now, months later after finally getting it running, I'm realizing the rollers might be too big, preventing the blade from contacting the wood.
Any help would be much appreciated!
My two cents on reassembly, use "Anti Seize" when putting your bolts back to prevent the mixed metals from seizing. Its a bear getting some of those bolts out after 20 or 30 years. Be careful not to over torque when using it.
Thank you in advance,
Kim


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I can't easily measure the ones I had recovered as they are already installed in the machine and the chip breaker prevents me from getting my calipers in there.. but the original rollers I have measured just a hair shy of 2 inches (1.998" or 50.77mm). You could probably verify with a quick call or e-mail to Western Roller.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## stabilimenta (Sep 1, 2015)

I just replaced the belt on my Makita 2030, and I thought I'd share how I did it. This may not be the right way, but without instructions or an owner's manual, this is what I did.

Tilt the machine so it leans towards the wood out-feed table.
Remove the belt cover.

As shown in the photo, looking up at the upper drive belt you will see upper pulley, and then a fat ring next to it. Both have a set screw.
Note distance of each from the sides, and the distance between.
Loosen set screws.
Gently, gently pry the pulley to the right and the other ring to the left. These two pieces are keyed together with 5 or 6 steel pins. As you pry them apart you will reveal pins. 
When you have it pried apart enough, slip belt between the two pieces, and then gently pry it back together. Get the distances the same as they were before. 
Tighten set screws on pulley and ring.
Loosen motor housing (4 bolts) enough to get belt on motor pulley, then be sure belt is in proper grooves and is aligned. 
Retighten motor.
Replace belt cover. 
That's it! Worked for me. It was hard to tell the drive shaft was in two pieces.
If anyone has a owner's manual for this machine, I would love to have a copy. Please email it! Thanks!


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The manual can be found here:
http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=Discontinued

I also found a Makita 2030 technical paper that was published around the time the machines were introduced (has "New Tool" printed on the top!). At the end, it has the official instructions for changing the belt:



> 1. Replacing of Poly-V Belt ( for driving Drum)
> Loosening a Pan head screw around the outside of Coupling, move the Coupling toward the axis in the Auto plate side, and remove Belt from the interval between Pulley and Coupling.


It's not as detailed as your write up, but I'd like to mention that the poly-v pulley doesn't really need to be loosened (notice the above makes no mention of it). It's shouldered against the bearing on the jointer side and can't move any further to the right than it is. With it seated against the bearing, the motor and drum pulley line up perfectly. If yours is out a bit, it might be contributing to wear on the belt - might want to verify their alignment.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: The distance between coupling and pulley is not that critical… you can push it up completely against the pulley without any worries… it's got 4 pins that fit into 4 rubber boots in the pulley, and it's only purpose is to join the planer and jointer cutter head shafts.


----------



## chardie (Jan 22, 2016)

Can anyone tell me how to replace the planer cutterhead on a 2030N? I just spent a $1000 bucks on a Shelix spiral cutter head and can't figure out how to get the old one out or the new one in.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The Makita 2030 and 2030N are similar but different machines… I can give you the procedure I used for the 2030, but it might be a better idea to start a new thread specific to the 2030N - so the two don't get confused.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## jim5 (Jan 24, 2016)

I have a Makita 2030N Planer-Jointer and I have a problem that someone might be able to help me diagnose. When feeding stock in for planing it is not feeding properly. The wood frequently stops and needs to be pushed thru. This seems like a feed roller problem but I am not sure. This occurs no matter how wide or narrow the piece I am planing and occurs even when making a shallow pass. My planer-jointer is about 25 years old and has never done this before. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jim5


----------



## WillliamMSP (Jan 3, 2014)

> I have a Makita 2030N Planer-Jointer and I have a problem that someone might be able to help me diagnose. When feeding stock in for planing it is not feeding properly. The wood frequently stops and needs to be pushed thru. This seems like a feed roller problem but I am not sure. This occurs no matter how wide or narrow the piece I am planing and occurs even when making a shallow pass. My planer-jointer is about 25 years old and has never done this before. Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Jim5
> 
> - jim5


I looked at one of these machines when I was shopping for a planer. If memory serves, the rollers on them deteriorate pretty badly when they're old. That would be the first thing that I'd check. If that is the problem, I recall that there's an outfit out there that'll rebuild your rollers for a hundred bucks or so.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Could be several things. Check the feed rollers like Bill suggests. If they are starting to deteriorate, then you need to replace them or have them recovered. Western Roller does a good job recovering them and will cost less than half of what new ones cost (see contact info up towards the top of this thread).

If your feed rollers are good and clean, then check to make sure your table rollers are properly set (see page 16 of the 2030N manual) and turn freely. Also make sure your table is clean and free of any rust, and give it a good coat of paste wax.

And since there seems to be some confusion over model numbers lately. The 2030, 2030N and 2030S are all different machines, mechanically and visually. Here is what the models look like for comparison:

Makita 2030:









Makita 2030N:









Makita 2030S:









Cheers,
Brad


----------



## sawdustmonkey (Jul 2, 2013)

reposting error, deleted content, see next post


----------



## sawdustmonkey (Jul 2, 2013)

Having tuned and tweaked my 2030 (not n or s) I just wanted to say the problem is similar to on the 2030 and 2030N.

MrUnix did a great service to this thread by posting pics of the different models, bravo for clarity.

If you aren't convinced yet, have the rollers resurfaced by Western Roller, even if they are showing no problems.
The cost is worth it and the rollers are better than new and cheaper than buying.
Western Roller have done enough of these that it should be no problem.
I have had a few rollers done by them, and once abandoned machines are humming along.

When you dismantle, inspect the ends of the roller spindles and keep an eye on the springs and bearing blocks.
Inspect the bearing blocks (the cube shaped inserts with the holes that the roller spindle is held in place).
Consider replacing at this time if they seem out of round or sloppy tolerances.
There is more on this at this thread on Sawmillcreek 
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?174078-Attn-Makita-2030-Planer-Jointer-Owners
Plane Bearing (Part # 214152-3 about 8 bucks each.

When wood is wet you can get slip.

When wood was green or sappy on a warm day and now your planning in cold weather, a sap film coating the rollers can cause it to slip, so clean to improve.

The rollers on the feed bed may need adjustment.

If there is no feed and the belt isn't whining like an old power steering unit, then it likely is NOT the belt being worn or loose/slack tension.

Take off less wood depth per pass is a common short solution.

Hope those ideas help.


----------



## mist (Apr 3, 2016)

Hello Jim5:
Your post from 1/24/2016 is copied below. I am having the same trouble with my 2030. The power rollers are in good shape and the bed rollers are maintained correctly. The board gets hung-up (stops) just as it should be entering the back power roller. In the past, the power roller adjustment screws were always as high (tight) as they could go and this stopping problem never occurred. Then, for some unknown reason the problem started happening. In an effort to try something, I lowered the front roller slightly and still have the problem. The problem seems to occur more often on a shallow cut than a deep cut. Have you been able to figure anything out since your original post? Any words of wisdom?
Thanks
mst

Jim5's post from 1/24/2016
I have a Makita 2030N Planer-Jointer and I have a problem that someone might be able to help me diagnose. When feeding stock in for planing it is not feeding properly. The wood frequently stops and needs to be pushed thru. This seems like a feed roller problem but I am not sure. This occurs no matter how wide or narrow the piece I am planing and occurs even when making a shallow pass. My planer-jointer is about 25 years old and has never done this before. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jim5


----------



## hankjo (Jun 1, 2016)

Hi, i would like to thank the gentleman that post his method of replacing the drive belt on a Makita 2039 Jointer Planer. I bought my 2030 in the late 70's and still use it all the time. Recently the drive belt needed to be replaced. I did a search online and came across his method describing a way to replace the belt.

My experience was much the same except I only had to shift the inner locking clutch wheel over to allow enough space to pass the belt around the drive shaft. I appreciate the way Makita addressed the issue of replacing the belt, a great design solution. The major problem I ran into occurred after I separated the clutch wheel from the pulley. The clutch wheel, on my model, has 4 steel pins that fit into 4 holes in the side of the pulley wheel. These four pins are wrapped with rubber sleeves that act as vibration dampers inside the 4 holes. When I separated the wheel from the pulley two of the rubber sleeves came out of the holes and were difficult to seat back into the holes. Some WD40 made the process easier. When you separate the wheel and pulley make sure to press the rubber sleeves back into their holes before they come out of the holes completely. I removed 3 of the 4 bolts that secure the electric motor to the body of the planer, the one I left was just barely connected. This made it easy to secure the belt around the pulley on the motor side. We passed a screwdriver through another of the screw holes to align the motor holes so that we could align the holes so that the bolts could be seated in place.


----------



## Kpflana (Dec 10, 2017)

Can anyone help with getting the jointer blade level with the outfeed side of the jointer? 
Currentky, the blade is slightly lower causing a bowed edge on the work piece. 
I know how raise and lower the infeed side using the knob, but unsure how to adjust outfeed side.

Thanks


----------



## chardie (Jan 22, 2016)

Unfortunately, the out-feed table on the 2030 and 2030N is not adjustable. You must adjust the height of the jointer knives to match the height of the out-feed table. BTW, I have 2 sets of carbide planer knives (12 inch long) I will mail to anyone for free. You can respond to this post or send to [email protected] I bought a spiral head for the planer and no longer need these.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

They did make some with adjustable outfeed tables (type 3?), but most don't have that. Although, even so, those knives are about the easiest to set on the planet, requiring only a couple of hardwood blocks… how are you setting them?

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## Brazz04 (Jan 11, 2016)

Chardie, I sent an email to you about the blades, but how do you like the spiral head for it? Also do you have any pictures of it installed? I had one for my dewalt planer, but haven't made the investment with the new makita yet.


----------



## chardie (Jan 22, 2016)

Brazz04-The spiral head cost me almost a $1000, but is well worth it if you do much planing. It cuts GLASS smooth and is significantly quieter when planing. The multiple carbide cutters are each about 1/2 inch squared sharpened on all 4 sides; If you get a nick in one just loosen it and rotate 1/4 turn and you are good to go. I just wish they made one for the jointer, but alas, since the out-feed table doesn't adjust, they had problems with the alignment and discontinued it.


----------

