# Proper glue to use



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I am building a large model and plan to use either balsa or bass wood. Due to its size, I want to glue up planks of the wood and then carve the wood to the desired contours. I don't want the glue lines to show. I'm guessing regular strength Titebond would be right, or Elmer's white glue. What do you say?


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## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

Years ago, I worked at as small lumber yard that had a good customer base for miles around, because of the owners knowledge and willing to treat the customers RIGHT! He only sold Titbond glue! No other branmds.

I have used it ever since and never been disappointed.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

we had a bridge building contest in high school using 5/32" square balsa sticks to create truss bridges 3" wide spanning 12" and the objective was the maximum capacity with the minimum material usage, including glue. We ran out of Elmers with half the bridges built and the industrial arts teacher bought Tite-Bond for the remaining bridges to be finished (unfair advantage). Those glued with Tite-Bond had no joint failures with those, even with superior designs, did have joint failures and the strongest bridge failed at just over 160lbs. also glued with Tite-Bond.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I use Regular Elmer's glue. It's translucent invisible glue. 
I also use a professional white glue from titebond thats translucent. If you want a glue with a short clamp time and fast grab the titebond translucent is good.
Regular Elmer's has a longer open time.









Good Luck


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

Ron, is this a RR model? Like AJ suggested clear glue works well, but just keep in mind if your going to do weathering to the model if your using any thinners it will affect your glue. 
Most RR modeler texture and weather before assembly. You get a much bigger range of contrast between the different boards. If you do it this way I use good old Elmers school glue and apply it with a toothpick sparingly.


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