# Sitting Bench Step Stool



## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

*History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*

http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA

After all of the support I received during our recent website troubles, I knew I had to come up with a special way of saying thank you. I considered sending out cards or personal emails, but I ultimately decided that the best way to show my appreciation would be to build one of the most requested projects ever: the Step Stool Sitting Bench. The reason this one gets requested so often is because it happens to be featured in our show's introduction.

The Past
This particular stool was actually a failed prototype. The reason I consider it "failed" is because I just couldn't produce them fast enough to sell at the desired price point. Here's the story. When I first moved to Arizona, I needed to come up with ways to make extra money while getting my woodworking business off the ground and I decided to make a few items to sell at a local swap meet. My goal was to create something that was small, elegant, useful, well-built, batch-able, and cheap. And while I really liked the design of this little multi-purpose stool, I just couldn't figure out a way to make them fast enough or in high enough number to justify a low price. So the prototype went to my mother-in-law who has been enjoying it for years.

The Present
Now that I get another crack at the design, I can't wait to dive into the details. I doubt that I'll overcome my previous issues, but I can certainly make some improvements on the original. In fact, this is another one of my classic "design on the fly" projects. I'm going to extract all the basic elements from the original, keeping the fundamental dimensions and angles. But I think we can do some additional shaping that will really make this piece stand out. So let's embark on this design challenge together and create the coolest sitting bench…..step stool…thingie….ever!

To make this project, you'll need to cut your materials into blanks of the following dimensions:
Top Blank - 1 3/4″T x 7″W x 16″L
Leg Blanks - 1″T x 7″W x 11 1/2″L
Stretcher Blank - 1 1/4″T x 1 3/4″W x 11 1/2″L

Note #1: The 1″ thickness of the legs is a bit of a necessary evil. We are cutting a lot of stock away so in order to have a thick enough leg when it is all said and done, the 1″ thickness is a necessity. You can use 3/4″ stock, but I don't think it will look as good or be quite as strong.

Note #2: The curves in this project are all subjective. I can't send you my templates so I encourage you to get some bending strips out and create your own curves. Experiment, play around, and have fun with the design process.

Get 'Er Done!
Use a 1/2 spiral bit , router and edge guideto create the mortises in the underside of the top blank.
Cut a 15 degree bevel on one end of each leg blank to establish the top of the tenon.
Use a tenoning jig to hold workpiece at 75 degree angle and cut tenon with dado stack.
Cut the 15 degree bevel on the bottom of each leg.
Use template to mark the face curve profile on each leg and cut at the bandsaw.
Smooth the surface using a rasp, a spokeshave, a scraper or a sander.
Cut side profile of each leg leaving a 4″ long tenon at the top.
Shape leg to personal taste.
Cut the tenon shoulders with a hand saw, clean up with a chisel, and round over the tenons with a rasp.


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## Hartmann (Jun 28, 2010)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Sorry but the video doesn't work…..


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Seems ok on my end.


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## seriousturtle (Apr 13, 2009)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Video works, and I've been enjoying your vids for years now mark. Thanks


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Works for me.


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## Enoelf (Mar 15, 2012)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Video played fine here…
Like this project! Nice stool, bench, thingie…..
Thanks for sharing.
Well done.


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## Gerry1 (Jul 12, 2009)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Marc,
Thanks for this! The video works fine, and I know 3 people who would KILL for a gift like this stool

Nicely done!


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Works for me.. 
Like your shirt..


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Great video. I'll have to try the angled tenon technique one day. Looking forward to the second part.
Thanks.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


I always enjoy your videos, question though my attention was drawn to your clock in a couple of the shots does the second hand just not move or is it just me?? either way can't wait to see the next vid.


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. As for the clock, we'll just have to let that be one of the world's great mysteries.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Great vid Marc!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


nice video Marc.

rasp work is tedious, I was surprised you went for so much material removal with it - touche!


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


I actually love the rasp for work like this. I don't find it tedious at all. In fact, the slower speed allows me to relax and think about what I'm doing before going too far. Quite enjoyable.


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## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


This is great little project. Thanks for posting it.


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## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *History, Templates and the Initial Leg Shaping*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgvyZCQA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+IrgvyZCQA
> 
> ...


Looks like a fun small project. Thanks for posting Marc.


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

*Top, Stretcher, and Assembly*

http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv2kfwA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv2kfwA

*Shaping The Top*
The top of the Bench/Stool features a nice deep curve. This not only looks cool, but adds a lot of additional comfort when sitting. I scribe the shape onto both sides of the top piece using my template. Since the top is supposed to be symmetrical on both sides, I prefer to shape only one side of my template. I then flip it over to scribe the profile on the other side. This way there is no possibility of error and the top should be exactly the same on both sides. I also decided to include a late-game change by introducing a slight end grain curve on each end of the top. The curves are all cut at the bandsaw and refined back at the workbench using sanders, scrapers, rasps, and the router.

The video contains numerous tips and tricks for accurate strategic shaping of parts using various tools, including this very important one: when milling symmetrical or identical parts, don't go more than one or two steps before repeating those same steps on the other parts. Shaping is an evolving process, meaning that you make decisions and adapt as you work toward your ultimate goal. So if you go too far on one piece without catching the others up, you might find it very difficult to make your parts identical.

*Finalizing the Legs*
For the most part, the legs are already shaped. But we still need to do some roundovers and blending. I use a router to roundover where possible, but the rasp does everything else.

*First Glueup*
It might seem like we're going out of sequence here, but the next step is to glue the legs to the top. We'll cut the center support to fit AFTER the glueup. Before adding any glue, I place a mark on the inside surface of each leg 3 3/4" down from the inside shoulder. This mark will help use locate our center support later.

When doing this glueup, the angle of the legs presents some serious clamping issues. My joint was so snug that I did something I normally would never do and used no clamps at all. As long as the shoulder is fully seated and there are no visible gaps, I see no major issues with this. But if you can manage to get a couple clamps on there without changing the angle of the legs, you will be better off.

*The Center Support*
With the glueup dry, we can now cut the center support. With the stool on its side, I line up the top of my center support blank with the lines that were drawn on the inside faces of the legs. I then use a pencil to mark the leg angles. They should be 75 (aka 15) degrees, but it is always good to get the measurements from the actual piece. Relative dimensioning in action baby!

I cut the center support to size at the miter saw and test the fit. When the blank drops down between the legs with no gaps and the top of the blank lines up with our marks, its time to move on to the shaping.

Using my template, I scribe the top and bottom curves onto the center support and proceed with the shaping process: bandsaw, spindle sander, router and rasps.

*Center Support Installation*
The center support to leg joint will be reinforced with dowels, but it first needs to be glued into place. Since this is an end grain to long grain butt joint, I like to use epoxy for as much strength as possible. Light clamping locks the support in place while the glue dries.

The dowels are simple enough to install, but they do require precise drilling. If you go off course, you'll punch right through the center support. I locate my drilling points at 3 3/4" and 4 1/2" from the underside of the top. The goal is to drill a 1 1/2" deep hole, perpendicular to the leg face. Because the leg sits at an angle, that means the drill bit is traveling through the center support at an angle. So getting these locations, depths, and angles correct is really important for good results. You can use whatever dowel size you like but I went with 1/4".

If you really want to step things up a bit, consider using brass dowel stock like I did for my Bubinga stool. Wood dowels are easy enough to get flush to the surface by using a flush trim saw and a sander, but brass requires a little more work. I use a file to get things mostly flush before moving to my sander.

*Leveling the Legs*
It's almost inevitable that the stool will wobble a bit. So we need to make sure all four contact points are touching the surface at the same time. I like to use a trick I learned from William Ng that is super simple and quick. I tape a piece of sandpaper to the workbench and simply drag the stool over the paper. I put a little extra downward pressure on the offending part of the leg just to help work it down faster. I do this process on both legs using a consistent number of strokes. Unless the wobble is severe, this should take care of it fairly quickly without going too far.

The only thing left to do now is prepare for finishing. The entire piece is sanded thoroughly with 180 grit. Now is the time to view the piece from as many angles as possible just to make sure we're completely happy with the shape. The next step is finishing!


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## JR_Dog (Jan 18, 2012)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *Top, Stretcher, and Assembly*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv2kfwA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv2kfwA
> 
> ...


Looks great! I wish I'd watched this a few weeks back as I was building my shop stool. I envy the use of a band saw for shaping… it's on the list. I was able to utilize your draw boring vid during my stool build Thanks for all the vids of excellent info; as always awesome!

If you have time to check it out here's my stool:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68014


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## joeob (Apr 14, 2009)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *Top, Stretcher, and Assembly*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv2kfwA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv2kfwA
> 
> ...


Marc,
When you used brass dowels on the second piece could one use brass screws (the old style where the thread stops short of the head). Drive the screw to just thread below the surface, then cut off the head. Combine the strength of a screw and appearence of a dowel.
Joe.


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## AttainableApex (Aug 24, 2010)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *Top, Stretcher, and Assembly*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv2kfwA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv2kfwA
> 
> ...


joeob that is an amazing idea


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *Top, Stretcher, and Assembly*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv2kfwA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv2kfwA
> 
> ...


Yeah as long as the threads don't widen the hole in any way on the way down, that should work like a charm.


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

*The Finish! *

http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA

It's time for everyone's favorite topic: finishing! 
I plan on using polyurethane to finish my Sitting Bench Step Stool, and this time, I'm not going to use an expensive specialty varnish. Instead, I'm making my own wiping varnish by diluting some good old Minwax Polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits. But before I apply the poly, I need to apply a single coat of Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat Dewaxed Shellac as a sealer. This is a good precautionary measure for just about any wood as the shellac seals off any impurities or oils on the surface. But if you happen to be using a naturally oily wood (many exotics fall into this category), this is a necessary step when using an oil-based varnish topcoat. If you don't do this, the oil-based finish will have difficulty curing.

*A Finishing Strategy*
No matter what finish you use, the first coat is usually very forgiving. The wood is so thirsty that you aren't likely to see any drips, runs, or streaks. So that's why the first coat is the perfect time to establish your finishing strategy. Years ago, I created a DVD called A Simple Varnish Finish. The board I used for demonstration was nice and flat and as a result, the first question most people ask after viewing the DVD is "What about curved surfaces and assembled pieces of furniture?". So to help fill in that gap, I decided to use the Sitting Bench Step Stool to demonstrate my personal strategy. Which part get's finish first, second, and so on?

*Two Rules*
There are really only two rules that I like to keep in mind during this process. First, is to *finish the least visible parts first.* As you apply finish to any piece of furniture, there will always be a chance for drips, runs, and even finger prints to find their way into the finish. So if I leave my "show surfaces" for last, I can be absolutely sure that the most visible surfaces look perfect. If a secondary surface has a slight flaw, it isn't nearly as big of a deal. So in the case of this project, the underside is where I start.

The second rule I follow is to *follow the finish.* As you apply finish to any particular piece, let's say the stool's leg, you are bound to get finish on the connecting parts. So pick the part that seems to have the most finish on it already and start applying your finish there next. Since every piece of a project tends to connect to another piece of the project, you can simply move from piece to piece by "following the finish". If you work quickly enough, you should be able to blend all of the parts seamlessly.

As with any project, you'll want to sand between coats with a high grit paper and remove the dust with a vacuum or a damp cloth.

*Finishing the Finish*
Let's face it folks: our shops are terrible places for wood finishing! As much as we might try to keep things clean, there will always be dust in the air and our finishes will inevitably have grit and nibs in them. So we need a way to smooth the final finish so that the end result is a silky surface that just begs to be touched. The secret is an old technique called rubbing out. The idea is to use fine abrasive compounds to get rid of any imperfections. But instead of using abrasive compounds and a ton of elbow grease, I have a quick and dirty method that still produces fantastic results. The secret is to use high grit abrasive foam pads with a lubricant to abrade the surface. You can use various lubricants including soapy water and mineral spirits, but I prefer to use a simple solution of 50% mineral oil and 50% mineral spirits (thanks to a tip from William Ng). Since the mineral oil doesn't cure, you have plenty of time to massage the surface and get a nice even appearance. The grit I uses most often for this operation is 2000.

The end result is a finish that will simply blow your mind. Silky smooth and not something you would expect from the average dusty garage or basement shop.

I hope you enjoyed this project. Although it is small in stature, there are lots of little details that go into making it special. I hope you build a few for yourself!

Original Article: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/sitting-bench-step-stool-pt-3/


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *The Finish! *
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA
> 
> ...


Nice little stool and even better little baby have fun I like your workmanship a lot. Alistair


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## Kookaburra (Apr 23, 2012)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *The Finish! *
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA
> 
> ...


Marc - this is a great finishing tutorial. You take it to a higher level than I have in the past, but i think I will be changing my process.

I do have one question about the 2000 grit abrasive pads. Do you use a new pad each time you finish something? If not, do you seal it in a ziploc bag? I feel wasteful (and guilty) when I toss things after one use.


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *The Finish! *
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA
> 
> ...


Thanks folks.
Kay, I do indeed re-use the pads. They are too darned expensive not to. The good thing is that the mineral oil never cures, so even if you left the pad on the bench top it would still be usable weeks later. But usually, because i don't want to get oil everywhere, I put them in a ziplock bag. The amount of abrasion is so minimal that the pads really last a long time through MANY uses.


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## flwoodhacker (May 23, 2010)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *The Finish! *
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA
> 
> ...


Thank you for the tips and instructions on finishing. I learn something new every time I watch your videos. Great job!


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## Skylark53 (Jan 8, 2010)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *The Finish! *
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA
> 
> ...


Thanks Marc for an excellent short video on finishing. Lots of good information I'll be remembering and using some in my upcoming projects. Beautiful family. Congratulations.


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## tierraverde (Dec 1, 2009)

thewoodwhisperer said:


> *The Finish! *
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/h%2BIrgv6PNAA.html?p=1http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#h+Irgv6PNAA
> 
> ...


Marc,
just for kicks try this.
When you're all finished and you want that extra smoothness, take a piece of regular cardboard box and use it like the 2000 grit sandpaper. I got this tip from a housepainter and have had great success with that final "finishing the finish"


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