# Projects in process. . .



## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*plane wall rack*

In my small shop space is hard to come buy so I decided to build something to hold my bench plans. This design was in Finewoodworking number 209. My wall wouldn't allow me the space to put the bottom shelf but it was easy enough to subtract it from the plans.

The only real issues I've had is dealing with the crappy low grade cabinet plywood I bought a few months back. I bought it before really understanding the differences in plywoods and although its better then big box stores grade its proven to have a few waves in it. I'm finding these are making it fit poorly with the projects I've used it on so far.

That said I'm learning as I go and enjoying things.










I've got it mostly done just need to figure out the best placement of the plans so I can cut the dados and glue in the dividers


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *plane wall rack*
> 
> In my small shop space is hard to come buy so I decided to build something to hold my bench plans. This design was in Finewoodworking number 209. My wall wouldn't allow me the space to put the bottom shelf but it was easy enough to subtract it from the plans.
> 
> ...


Joe,

Nice looking rack and planes.

Looks like your really have a plan… < GRIN >

Keep up the good work.

Be Careful!

Herb


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *plane wall rack*
> 
> In my small shop space is hard to come buy so I decided to build something to hold my bench plans. This design was in Finewoodworking number 209. My wall wouldn't allow me the space to put the bottom shelf but it was easy enough to subtract it from the plans.
> 
> ...


Not a lot of time this weekend but did get a few hours in the shop to get this finished up. I still need oil the wood and add the straps but just hanging it on the wall makes me happy.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *plane wall rack*
> 
> In my small shop space is hard to come buy so I decided to build something to hold my bench plans. This design was in Finewoodworking number 209. My wall wouldn't allow me the space to put the bottom shelf but it was easy enough to subtract it from the plans.
> 
> ...


Finished it up this weekend and happy with the final look. It doesn't fit all my plans but it will hold the ones I need most.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Copper air lines, small shop 101 *

One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.

Fast forward to the shop being done, the starting of projects, the use of compressed air and, use of a compressor. So much for lack of noise.. . So in looking at different ways to run air lines and the cost I found copper the best since I already had many of the fitting I needed. For the most part it went smoothly. I decided to add 2 drops along the same wall.

I ran 3/4" in pipe from the lean to and dropped down to 1/2 or the two drops. Since I had needed to add 220 to the back area I just ran the copper pip next to it. Wall space is tight so I did my best to keep things as close as possible.










Each drop has it's own bleeder and cut off so if I need to change things out I won't lose all the pressure.










The drop in the lean too uses a short leader hose to suck up any vibration.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


Looks good to me Joe. Nice little shop, you seem to have it set up pretty comfortable to work in.


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## ptweedy (Feb 9, 2009)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


hey joe; nice job on both the copper and the galvanised. You might look at some fiber board to put into or on the walls in your compressor room. I have done this using furing strips to act as standoffs. use two layers seperated by a inch of air space. This will reduce the sound even more. Phil


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


Very nice work,looks like You have Your air supply well managed ! I have piped air through out my shop as well and isolated the compressor also along with my dust collector and I am sure I don't need to tell You how much of a difference it makes !! Took a look at Your shop as well, also impressive work . ROB


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


ptweedy,

thanks for the idea. I will be adding insulation once I figure out the best way to add a return between the rooms, I have really limited wall space I can give up plus I don't want to add any more noise back to the shop then needed.

When I built the shop I installed rockwool to cut noise and fire safety.

Joe


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


I have asked and never got a reply on this. Can PEX be used for compressed air. I understand that PVC will shatter after it has compressor oil in it although I have a friend with a machine shope that has had 180 PSI air in a PVC pipe for 25 years now with no problems. I just don't want an overhead grenade. Anyone know anything about PEX. It reminds me of the tubing I see in the Northern Hydraulic book but cheaper. 
BTW you job looks great!


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


I've used flair it fittings which are another type but much like Pex. I used them for high pressure water and I think they were good to 200 psi.

If you've never worked with plastic hose like pex or flair-it I would try it first. running it has it's problems if your looking to keep it neat or straight. It doesn't bend easy.

Joe


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe, I was mainly interested in the longevity of the PEX. I don't want to invest in something that has a 30 day life or worse becomes dangerous. Steel pipe will rust and send ugly stuff into the system I am afraid. I could dry and filter before it enters the line but I am not sure how well that works. I have a filter regulator that I currently use. I would think the banding would work on the PEX fittings. One reason I am asking is I have some PEX. PEX is reasonable. I have a long shop and would like to have air where I want it. I added a room on the end this year. It was 30×40 and I changed it to 30×60. I plan to house the air compressor out there and keep the noise in the "other room". I have no experience with PEX and air. I have read that you should not use PVC with compressed air but I don't know anyone that has actually had problems with it.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


I would agree that most people do have issues with PVC I you mostly hear about the warnings because everyone needs to cover there ass these days. ;-0 The plastic however used on PEX and PVC are not the same. The PEX plastic has some give to it. I think if your really looking to go that way you should just give the manufacture a call. I'm sure they could answer any questions.

The issues with condensation in Black pipe is really not that big of a deal and by far the most common way to go. If you look at the way I ran my pipe you'll see I added valves for each drop an sloped the long run between the drops. I think 1" every 10 feet is what I read. I also added cut off vales so I could bleed a section without loosing all my air.

When I looked at all the bends I needed to make to get things just right plus safety copper seemed the best choice. If you want to got the plastic route take a look at these

 Compressed Air Aluminum Air Piping

RapidAir Compressed Air Piping System

The Compressed Air Aluminum Air Piping is top shelf stuff but over kill for home use. The Rapid Air is becoming quite popular and I know if you search on this site for it you'll find reviews.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


Thanks again Joe, I have just heard that compressor oil causes PVC to harden and shatter but I have a friend with a small machine shop and he has used it for years at 180 psi. He always turned the valve off at the tank in the evenings and back on in the mornings. I saw the RapidAir system in Northern Hydraulics last winter. When I saw it I also noticed that the tubing was expensive. I was just thinking PEX might be cheaper and then you could go to an NPT thread and fitting. I haven't done anything yet. That is one of my around to it jobs. I think drip legs are a must so you can drain each drop. You have a good set up here.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


The rapid air kit at woodcraft is 139.00 and I know I've seen it for less on-line. It should have what you'd need to run 100 feet. That's hard to beat even if you went PVC.

If you have a filter at the start of the run I don't see how you'd have issues with oil getting into the system. Filters run about 40.00 each and I put on at the start of the run then again at each drop.

Woodcraft


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Copper air lines, small shop 101 *
> 
> One of the first things I did when laying out my small shop was to get the dust collector outside the work area into a lean to I added behind the shop. I had hoped to make it larger to add some sheet good storage but it's just not in the cards due to the size of the main shop and required pitch for the roof.
> 
> ...


I think the filter would be a good investment. you have a drip leg for anything that gets through the first filter and then you filter at the QD. I have woried about having the compressor in an unheated room and pumping air into the heated room where I will work. Of course no problems in the summer. I know I get plenty of moisture in my hoses when I plug them straight into the compressor.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Pen states cyclone dust collector *

I've added these entries not in order of how they were installed rather as I've had time.

As soon as I decided to convert my old garage into a shop, space was top of the list. When looking at how best to deal with things I decided to go with a cyclone and Pen state is within driving distance and they offered free layout. The close distance really helped as like most projects of this type it required a few returns and exchanges as I changed routing of duct a bit.

If anyone is looking into pen state I was really happy with both web/catalog and the store. Everyone really helped and had first experience with the products and how best to use them.

When looking at redoing the garage I decided to add a small lean to to the back so I could put the air compressor and cyclone out back. I still need to add a return to the lean to but need to figure out the best way without adding all the noise back into the system.

routing of the duct




























After using the cyclone a month or so I decided to add a vacuum pump and wired a light into the shop for when it's full. If you've ever tried to empty one of these bin full it's not fun.










Picture of the lean to just after finishing up with the siding










The starting point of the garage


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*round end table*

I started this just after the first one I made but with the building of the shop just haven't made the time to finish. This weekend however things just clicked and I spent some time doing it. Its all but done just needs some sanding and a few coats of finish.

Joe


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*try square A La Roubo*

I'm sure there a tone of people like me that were inspired to make a few tools after reading Chris schwartz's blog or books. I do most of my reading on the bus ride into the city and home each day so some books end up taking me sometime to get though but regardless it's still makes what otherwise can be a stressful part of the day better.

On the list of things is his Roubo try square that he wrote about when working for the popular woodworking. As I find time I will share some of the others I'm making. 36" straight edge and also a saw bench.

Since this would be something I'd be looking at a lot and plus I needed really straight 1/4 sawn I decided to hit the local mill which for me is Willard Brothers and see what they had. Mind you Willards is not the place you want to go too often unless you've got a budget. They have a great selection, very friendly help but all those nice woods come at a price.

I found some nice straight grain Macacauba that was in my price range. I got enough to do make both this and straight edge

So once back in the shop I went about the process of getting the stock to size. I ripped the thin pieces down to size on the bandsaw to save wood and squared and planed them by hand.



















Once I got them close to size I made a quick jig to help make the bridle joint and then cut two.










With the joint cut I needed to thin the blades to fit. I did this by hand. 









With everything fit it was time to add the ogee with a fillet. I tried it two ways with a paper template and also drawing it out. Both worked fine and I cut them out on the band saw, then hand filled to get some practice with my rasps and finally used a sander for the circles.




























I finished off everything with the scraper as many of the smaller details just couldn't be done with paper or a file.



















With everything sanded I recheck everything for square. 









You can see the joint in the shaving










Next up is to make the dowels and I needed to order a doweling jig as I don't own anything to turn them on.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

need2boat said:


> *try square A La Roubo*
> 
> I'm sure there a tone of people like me that were inspired to make a few tools after reading Chris schwartz's blog or books. I do most of my reading on the bus ride into the city and home each day so some books end up taking me sometime to get though but regardless it's still makes what otherwise can be a stressful part of the day better.
> 
> ...


very cool project and beautiful grain flow on those macacubas.

interesting how you orient the boards in your front vise for work with no support underneath - don't you have an end/tail vise for this sort of work or do you find this way more comfortable (to me this seems less comfortable and less reachable)? - curious


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *try square A La Roubo*
> 
> I'm sure there a tone of people like me that were inspired to make a few tools after reading Chris schwartz's blog or books. I do most of my reading on the bus ride into the city and home each day so some books end up taking me sometime to get though but regardless it's still makes what otherwise can be a stressful part of the day better.
> 
> ...


Great project. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out. I have them on my list of projects also.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *try square A La Roubo*
> 
> I'm sure there a tone of people like me that were inspired to make a few tools after reading Chris schwartz's blog or books. I do most of my reading on the bus ride into the city and home each day so some books end up taking me sometime to get though but regardless it's still makes what otherwise can be a stressful part of the day better.
> 
> ...


Hey Purplev,

Yes I do have tail vise but I guess I'm just used to working that end of the bench. That could be due in part to the orientation of my bench in my shop or the lack of training. ;-) It's all kinda new for me.

I will give the tail a go next time. ;-)


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *try square A La Roubo*
> 
> I'm sure there a tone of people like me that were inspired to make a few tools after reading Chris schwartz's blog or books. I do most of my reading on the bus ride into the city and home each day so some books end up taking me sometime to get though but regardless it's still makes what otherwise can be a stressful part of the day better.
> 
> ...


great looking project.

You can make your dowels with a router table if you have one. cut the square, then round over each edge with the appropriate size round over bit.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Roubo try square part two*

I've been out side the shop doing some other things like yard work and little fall camping, plus I was waiting on the dowel plate from LN.That said this weekend I found some time this weekend. The over process I'm flowing is based on a few articles found online on the making of a try square. The first one was completely by hand and the other a bit more power tool friendly. I'm splitting the difference. ;-)

I left off in the first post with the parts made and ready to be joined. I decided this would be a good project to learn a little about the use of a dowel plate to make my own dowels. LN offers an article by David Charlesworth download and although I did read it the process is quite straight forward. You cut the wood to size, rounded the edges slightly, (I used a plane) then hammer it through the plate. I've seen people make fancy holders for a vice but I just positioned it over a hole in my bench, it's really that simple. I found I did get some chips at the ends so you should make them a bit longer .










Once the 1/4 " dowels were done I figured out placement and drilled through the handle using scrap in place of the blade. I squared up some scrap to use as a clamping jig, then glued and clamped it. Wile clamped I drilled through the blade and hammered in the pegs. It was really hard to see the grain on this darker wood but I did my best to match everything.









The pegs are enough to hold It square so I removed it from the jig so I could work on the next one. Just to be double safe I put one clamp on them for a few hours.










Ready for finishing


















Hopefully this weekend I should have time to finish up.

Joe


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

need2boat said:


> *Roubo try square part two*
> 
> I've been out side the shop doing some other things like yard work and little fall camping, plus I was waiting on the dowel plate from LN.That said this weekend I found some time this weekend. The over process I'm flowing is based on a few articles found online on the making of a try square. The first one was completely by hand and the other a bit more power tool friendly. I'm splitting the difference. ;-)
> 
> ...


looking goood sofare 
though I personly wood have used different coloured woodtypes 

take care
Dennis


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Roubo try square part two*
> 
> I've been out side the shop doing some other things like yard work and little fall camping, plus I was waiting on the dowel plate from LN.That said this weekend I found some time this weekend. The over process I'm flowing is based on a few articles found online on the making of a try square. The first one was completely by hand and the other a bit more power tool friendly. I'm splitting the difference. ;-)
> 
> ...


Yea, the thing is I bought so me 1/4 saw straight gran wood to make a few shop tools from and at the time I hadn't thought about ripping the wood on my band saw. I thought I'd be using something 4/4 thick. As it turned out I found some thicker wood but ripping it I ended up with enough to make 3. One for a gift and the other two for me. ;-0

Joe


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Roubo try square part two*
> 
> I've been out side the shop doing some other things like yard work and little fall camping, plus I was waiting on the dowel plate from LN.That said this weekend I found some time this weekend. The over process I'm flowing is based on a few articles found online on the making of a try square. The first one was completely by hand and the other a bit more power tool friendly. I'm splitting the difference. ;-)
> 
> ...


They look fantastic Joe. Definitely on the to do list. Was there a reason why the dowels are going in different directions if you know what I mean, or were you just using a bit of aritistic license? 

What finish are you going to use?


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Chair style saw benches*

I guess I have this far enough along to call it in progress and share out.

The project is a pair of saw benches built in what I'd call the "chair style". This is my first attempt at chair legs and I figured it's a forgiving enough project. For inspiration and sizing I looked at a number of articles by Chris Schwarz but really like the design of "making and using saw horses" by Adam Cherubini in Popular woodworking April 2006 issue 154.










However he built them by axe and what I'll call "Woodwright style", cutting down the trees and such and well. .. I just don't have the setup for that and my design tastes are a little more modern.

I've always been interested in chair design and In particular like the flaired square leg. What's held me off is I have no experience or access to a lathe. Then out some point I read or saw some info about hollow augers and started looking for a used one. Both my hollow auger, and spoke pointer were made by A.A. Woods & Sons but a number of companies made them. I bought them a month or so ago and spent some time last weekend sharpening the blades.

Not having experience with them I did a bit of Googling and for the most part they are straight forward. The hollow auger has a skewed low angle blade that can be adjusted in/out as well as angled at the cutting edge much like a plane. The mouth opening is adjustable from around 1-1/6 to 1/2 and has a depth gauge to keep you honest. The spoke pointer has a wider cutting blade that's sharpened at a slightly higher angle and also has a depth gauge.

You start with the spoke pointer to round the edges then move to the adjustable hollow auger. I wanted around a 1-1/4 but the adjustable auger I have go to 1-1/6 which will be fine.

I glued up scrape 2X4's to use for a test to adjust the dowel size. The spoke pointer makes short work of trimming the edges that's to the sharp blade. The hollow auger takes a little more care in getting it started, you need to check it's centered and cutting straight.









Rounding of the corners with the spoke pointer.









Care is needed in getting it started.









Once centered I turned it to gain leverage. The auger does cut smoothly once it gets going.









Sized it to fit snug at 1-1/6

So at this point I've got all the parts ready to go. The tops are made from ambrosia maple and the legs are soft maple. Both of which I bought rough cut locally and are not he highest of quality but will work great for this. The legs were tapered on the table saw and I'll be going back to shape them slightly more on the spoke shaver.









kegs ready for shaping









This tree had been hit with bird shot in places so planing was a little tricky.

Currently waiting on some Irwin auger bits to use on the compound angles for the legs. I figured If it's to difficult to maintain the angle with my hand brace I can always switch to a Forstner bit and on my drill press..

More TK as they say. . .


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Chair style saw benches part 2*

This past weekend I'm still dealing with some home repairs that need to be done before it gets to cold. We had a very old deck replaced with a smaller one and in the process I took down some smaller trees to better adjust the fence to it's size. All went well but sadly its take my time away from working on this project.

Last we left off I had the parts sized and and ready to drill the compound angles. I was lucky enough to find some larger Irwing auger bits, I was looking for 1-1/6 (17) and found it and a few others 18, 20, 22. All in good shape but all needing sharpening or resharpening.









As you can the very ragged hole centerish is where I started and ended with the one of the left.

A friend who stopped by pointed out it would it would seem as I gather new tools I'm spending a lot of time sharpening. Is is this is evident by by the lack of hair on the back side of my hands and the cuts on my fingers. ;-)

Once sharpened I went to work with the spoke pointer and adjustable hollow auger. I sized this already as well as adjusting the stops.









Ready for the hollow auger









The cut is not the cleanest but cut I think some future adjustment on the angle of the cutter should help. Ether wy this will be fine for my use.

Once the legs were done I drilled the compound angles in the tops. I used a sliding T bevel as a gauge to to get my brace started. Once the angle was good I switched over to a T handle as the hard maple was kicking my ass with a 10 brace. 









With the holes drilled I pulled my spoke shaver into the shop. I built this 7 or 8 years ago to help in make Greenland style kayaking paddles the design worked great for the longer pieces but I find it a little trickier for shorter things. I used it to flair out the legs a little. I ran out of time before I go one to where I liked it and I'd rather wait till I have the time to feel it out and not rush.










That it for this week. hopefully I can find a bit more time in the next week or so. I also took some vid that I will post.

Joe


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*

OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)






enjoy

Joe


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


Nothing to laugh about there Joe. Great video and I now understand how a hollow auger works. What kind of adjustment is there in terms of the max and min diarmeter it will cut? I see it has a depth stop also. Nice.


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## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


That's pretty cool.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


Very galoot, thanks for posting.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


thank´s for sharing 

Dennis


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


Andy,

You can see it better in this picture. It cuts from around 1-1/4" to 1/2". I say that because I think really your looking at 1-1/6" to 3/4" To open and close the mouth you just loosen a lock ring and turn a screw. The blade can be adjusted in and out, plus the angle. From what I've read the A. A. WOOD & SONS, adjustable hollow augers seem to be the best of what was made.










I need to experiment more more with the cutting depth and angle as some of the cuts were really clean and others not so much. I did a little digging on line and found some recommend filing the tip off the skewed blade as it can catch and dig of you tilt the brace as your turning it.

All and all I was very happy and since I don't see my self getting a lathe soon it really serves well.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


I have not used mine in a while but even if you have a lathe, they are a great tool and can do stuff that a lathe can't.

If the blade is too pointed, you end up leaving scratches and cuts all the way down the tenon too.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info Joe. I have seen them on ebay from time to time, but I wasn't sure what they did. Next time I see one, I'll probably put in a bid.


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## firehouse (Oct 4, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


that was a first for me, thank` JOE----------FIREHOUSE


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## michelletwo (Feb 22, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches: vid of spoke pointer and hollow auger*
> 
> OK, Was asked a wile back to take a video when I used the spoke pointer and the hollow auger. no laughing please ;-)
> 
> ...


I did not laugh at all. I love handtools. Peaceful & quiet. Neat set of tools you have.


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

*Chair style saw benches finsihed*

With the Holidays in full swing I haven't had the time to work out in the shop as much as I'd like but did get the benches finished. Then it took me another two weeks to get it posted. ;-)

Last I left off the legs and were ready to be shaped after I cut them on a tapering jig on the table saw. To do this I used a spoke shaver I had built years ago for making greenland style kayaking paddles. Its great with long pieces but troublesome with shorter things like the legs.

Next I used a trick I had seen on an old episode of the woodwright shop to mark the legs where they meet the bench tops with a caliber to adjust for the angle. You find the widest point and set the calibers, then trace around the other 3 sides. Then trim to that angle with a sash saw and chisel.



















With the legs fitted I shimmed the benches level, measured and trimmed to final size. From what I've read your looking for a finish hight you can put one knee bent on the bench and the other fully extended. I guess the size of board you cutting comes into play? but I went for something around my kneecap and figured if over time it was off I could cut down or make a new set.



















I put a few coats of finish on it and called it done. In the end 2 legs fit a little loose so I'll most likely add keys or wedges to the legs at some point.



















My finished size was 27.5L X 7 W and 17L X 7W Both are 23" high. The legs are 10 degrees out and 3 degree splayed.

thanks for looking

Joe


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches finsihed*
> 
> With the Holidays in full swing I haven't had the time to work out in the shop as much as I'd like but did get the benches finished. Then it took me another two weeks to get it posted. ;-)
> 
> ...


Nice job Joe and now you also have somewhere to sit and eat your lunch.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches finsihed*
> 
> With the Holidays in full swing I haven't had the time to work out in the shop as much as I'd like but did get the benches finished. Then it took me another two weeks to get it posted. ;-)
> 
> ...


nice looking benches joe. Funny we finished ours about the same time. Mine are only 16" high though. How sturdy are they when you are cutting?


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## need2boat (Jan 11, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches finsihed*
> 
> With the Holidays in full swing I haven't had the time to work out in the shop as much as I'd like but did get the benches finished. Then it took me another two weeks to get it posted. ;-)
> 
> ...


Don,

They are surprisingly sturdy for cutting I trimmed down that piece of yellow pine on top of my bench without any trouble. I think provided the force is downward they work great.










JFF


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

need2boat said:


> *Chair style saw benches finsihed*
> 
> With the Holidays in full swing I haven't had the time to work out in the shop as much as I'd like but did get the benches finished. Then it took me another two weeks to get it posted. ;-)
> 
> ...


they do look really nice. For some reason I actually picture a head and tail on them. You should make one more for the kids.


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