# Scrollsaw Portraits in a NutShell



## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

*The Prep Work*

I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.

I thought I would make Part 1 of my "Portrait Scrollsawing in a NutShell Blog" cover just that topic - getting everything ready to actually start sawing.

The only "prep work" part I won't cover in this section is designing the pattern itself - that will be at LEAST one, if not multiple future blogs.

On with the show…………..

First, I decide on a pattern to cut - in this case it's "Ceiling Cat" from the LolCats Website. I was asked to do this by someone else, so I thought it would be nice and simple for the blog.










Now, to choose what 'canvas' to use - For this image I don't want something really busy, nor huge. My Father gave me a log from a Locust tree and I was curious as to what this looked like. Never used it before, but I am told it has a decent grain pattern and is a light color, so……. To the band saw!










I sliced a thin strip off the bottom of the log to steady it, then ran a few half inch planks from the log until I got a nice sized piece to use.










*NOTE*: Normally I would slice this entire log into thin planks, stack it with proper air flow in between the pieces, store it in my shop's rafters for a couple of months and THEN use it. I "lucked out" on this piece as it's very dry already and I was really impatient! ;-)

Now, on to the planer - I generally plane the side I don't intend to use first and only until it's generally flat.










The other side I plane down until it's perfectly smooth. I plan on leaving the live edge on this one, so I have to take very thin passes so the bark don't shatter.










Locust, it seems, looks really nice and is hard as a rock - this should work out nicely!

Now, it's on to the radial arm saw to size the wood and get rid of any cracks.










All I really did here was to chop the short sides off until it was a decent size, which wound up around nine inches long.

Now, I use my ROS with 220 grit paper until its perfect.










This method forces you to finish the wood before you start - with the exception of any oils or stains. You have to fully sand and edge the wood first!










Now we go back inside the house for some more work on both the computer and the cutting mat…………

The first thing I usually do is to lay the wood down on my cutting mat and see what size the pattern needs to be prior to printing it out.










Looks like it needs to be around 5 ½ inches wide by around 3 ½ inches high.

Using my Image Editor of Choice (Adobe Photoshop in this case), I resize the image based on the above measurements. Notice I choose to "Constrain Proportions" which ensures the image doesn't get stretched out.










I now print the image with the highest quality setting and choosing "Grayscale Only" - who cares about color when we have a black and white image.










Next step is to trim off the excess paper, while keeping the image fairly square - here's where the cutting mat comes in really handy!










Now I set aside the image and pick up a roll of "Scotch" Brand Sealing Tape - the brand doesn't matter as long as it's good quality stuff. Cover the entire surface of the wood with overlapping rows of tape. The tape does two things for you. It covers the entire surface for glue-up later and it lubricates the saw blade - no burn marks at all!










When you are done, trim all the tape pretty close to the edges, but leave at tiny bit of overhang.










Now, take your image and get it aligned perfectly. Using a marker, draw registration marks on a couple of sides. Remember, the top is taped over so you can draw on this as much as you want! 










Now, back to the shop…………….

I set up my home-made glue easel (it's really just a strip of wood attached to a corrugated plastic sign) and place my wood and image on them.










Spray them liberally with glue. I tend to use 3M products, but as long as it's a glue that advertizes "permanent bond" it will work just fine. You can spray the entire surface now that it's covered in tape - cool!










Let the stuff sit for at least 30 seconds to set up………










Then, using your registration marks you drew earlier, align the image and affix it to the surface. Be Careful - You only get one chance!










Now, you might be wondering how I go about getting rid of all that sticky glue still left on the surface?

Take your work and treat it like a sticky piece of dough - dust it with flour! Really. Honest.










I keep a bag of flour handy to dust each piece I am making. If the work is small enough, I just toss it in the bag and shake lightly. Bigger pieces I sprinkle it on and rub it around.










A quick spray with the air hose and we are ready for drilling!










This should not be new news to anyone who has done scroll work before, but it IS part of the prep-work, so I will quickly go over the process.

I start with a 1/16" drill bit and bore a hole into each separate piece that I need to cut out. This will be used to thread the saw blade through when you are cutting.










For those pieces that are smaller than 1/16" wide, I then switch to a #60 bit and drill the tiny pieces. A #60 bit is the smallest size that I can thread a blade through, so I naturally can't go any smaller with my holes.

All drilled and FINALLY ready to cut!










This *does* seem like a lot of work, but each step is pretty quick and it gives you a really easy piece to cut later.

The best part comes later when you are finished cutting and need to remove the pattern from the wood. All you need to do is simply peel the tape off of the surface of the wood!

-No Residue!
-No Heat Guns!
-No Solvents!

Just take your time and the tape peels off easily!

Well, we are now *finally* ready to actually take the work to the scroll saw and start cutting. That will be covered in a future blog.

I hope this blog wasn't too long and as well provided a few tips to those looking to do this kind of work.

Remember, this is what *I* do - not what *EVERYONE* does. Do what is best and easiest for you as there really isn't a right or wrong way to do this.

I learned most of these steps on my own or from reading about them here on LumberJocks.

If you have a tip or trick that you think would work as well or better, PLEASE let me know!

Above all…............ *Enjoy your scroll sawing!*

-bob


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## flintbone (Oct 4, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Good job Bob. Nice and easy to follow.


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## 308Gap (Mar 6, 2010)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Where do I send the check!.. this is great but I have so many questions and I type slow. I just got my first bandsaw and my first planer, the scroll saws been in the shed since…well I have my Dads, funny I bought it for him 15yrs ago. 
1. what blade was that in the bandsaw 
2. did you season the flour
3. Thank you for the class


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


308Gap,

The blade I had in the bandsaw was actually WAY too tiny for that kind of work. You want the largest blade you can put into your saw - 3/4" or larger is ideal. A 3 or 4 tooth per inch is also recommended.

Here's a very good website that give some tips: http://www.kevinsbrady.net/LogSled.html

No, just use plain white flour - I think the project comes out way too spicy if you used seasoned. I guess whole wheat would work in a pinch though…....

You are very welcome! Instead of a check, just post your first work on LJ's and give me some props! ;-)

-bob


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Hi Bob, thanks for the very informative blog. Hope you don't mind a few questions!

Why do you trim the paper pattern down to a small size and then flour the rest of the workpiece to cover up the spray adhesive? Why not just size the paper to the workpiece and cover the entire thing? I really like the sealing tape technique, when I do Marquetry I do the same thing but I use the 2" wide marquetry tape to cover the veneer.

Secondly, I'm surprised that you are able to cut a 1/2" thick piece from the log and begin working it to a finished surface right away. Have you ever had any problems with warping or movement as the piece drys?

Third, what is the smallest size blade that you can use with your scrollsaw?

Thanks again, I will be watching for the next update.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Good piece Bob. There are so many similarities to marquetry, most notably the extreme importance of what you do before you cut.

Thanks for the lesson


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Mathew,

I never mind questions - or comments!

You asked why I don't trim the paper to the size of the project - mainly out of laziness! ;-) I find it's far quicker to simply place a smaller pattern on the larger wood surface and just quickly dust it with flour. Also, if you use a larger piece of paper it gets pretty difficult to align the pattern to the wood. I don't see a problem with it though.

You also asked about how quick I was able to take a piece straight from the band saw to the planer and saw and why it didn't warp. To tell you the truth…....... I does indeed warp, but only a very tiny bit. The log I used was aged over two years and painted on each end to prevent cracking. I cut a very thin piece and then planed it down even thinner. When I cover it in tape, I think it prevents a lot of warping.

I usually cut an entire log at once and store it in my shop's rafters at least a couple of months before I use them. Sorry to lead you down the wrong path - I will note that above!

Your question about blade size is an easy one. Whatever size is available I can put in my saw. I have used 2/0 blades with ease and I know of cutters who use even smaller blades. If I can pinch it between the blade clamps, I can use it! 

Paul,

I do agree with you - there is a lot to do before you cut, very similar to proper marquetry. You could also compare this to box making, or turning, or even painting a wall. To ensure a GOOD job, prep work is everything! Thanks for the comment!

-bob


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## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


i see a few differences between the first pic and the others so im assuming you modified it to be scroll saw friendly but dont see you mention it. some people might not know that not every picture can be used directly on a scroll saw

also i justs pray the adhesive on the paper itself and it seems to stick just fine. not sure its really required to spray the work piece as well


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Mike,

Two good points!

Yes, I most certainly modified the original to be "scroll saw friendly" as you put it. Pattern making is a huge topic I didn't want to get into as this blog was long enough. ACTUALLY, the pattern I show printed above has two parts that had to be modified prior to cutting - I'll leave them up to you to discover. ;-) Maybe part two or three….......

Depending on the adhesive, you can most certainly get away with only spraying one side and if you only spray the paper the you don't need the flour treatment! Good point!

I have had issues with paper peeling during my cutting if I don't hit both surfaces, so I spray both by habit.

Thanks for the comments!

-bob


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Em Bob, why don't you use thin sawdust instead of the flour? After all, it's plentiful, free, and not edible.

Oh wait, I get it: you lick your scrollwork when done to remove the flour, right?

;p


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Sodabowski,

I most certainly have used sawdust before, but I find that simply keeping a zip-loc bag of flour under my scroll saw is far easier. Flour is always fine enough to coat and stick to all the glue. It also makes the back of the piece nice and slick when I start sawing.

I have gotten big pieces of sawdust stuck in the glue in times past and it was irritating to me when I would brush against it.

I suppose if I were to save the sawdust from my ROS it might be usable - but then I would have to make sure it wasn't a wood species I were allergic to or pressure treated lumber, etc…......

Flour is really inexpensive and a cup of it goes a LONG way - you can coat a dozen or more portraits with a single cup of flour easily.

And I do NOT lick my scrollwork when I'm done - I lick my fingers while I work. Instant pastry! ;-)

-bob


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Oh, so thats how you do it.

Seriously though, a fine, thorough explanation of your technique.

Remember Ceiling cat is watching you. Atheist cat isn't bothered though.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Thank you for this great explanation and tutorial.


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## sharad (Dec 26, 2007)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


A very nice blog on Scroll saw portraits.

Sharad


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Nice blog, thanks ;-)


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## boysie39 (Sep 26, 2012)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


As a 74 yr. old beginner I find this very useful as I had no idea how to go about getting my subject piece onto the wood . I am in a very remote area and have not found any scrollers as of yet . Thank you for posting will de on the watch out for anything that can help me get going at this art. Most of what I read is aimed at people who are established in scrolling as I have joined the "gang" too late it is difficult to to find a starter forum .


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


boysie39,

Welcome to the world of scrollsawing! Myself, as well as numerous others on LJ's would be happy to help out with any questions you may have.

I made my start at scrolling while a member of LJ's as well and I couldn't have learned as quickly as I did without the wonderful folk that are eager to help!

I would be remiss if I didn't mention Sheila "scrollgirl" Landry. She is a fantastic pattern maker, scroller and all-around great person!  I would advise you "buddy" her so you receive her daily blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/scrollgirl/blog/series/2820

Feel free to contact myself privately with any questions you may have, or post questions in the correct forum.

Cheers!

-bob


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## boysie39 (Sep 26, 2012)

KnotCurser said:


> *The Prep Work*
> 
> I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the *Prep Work*.
> 
> ...


Bob,
Thanks for the welcome .I look forward to everything that is posted .I bought a Hegner Multicut 1 with V/S as in my turning days V/S was almost a must on the Lathe .I bought all the gear from Hegner direct except a stand which I had a friend weld up for me. I have tried out a few pieces but are not fit for publication as yet .
I would like to get in touch with Sheila with a view to buying some beginners patterns to get me on the way . And if you or she can suggest anything else indeed anyone who reads this post I would be obliged . Slan Leat.


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

*Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*

Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.

First of all, I am using Adobe Photoshop 7.0.1. I was able to get a great deal on the software (student pricing) and that is what I use for 95% of my graphic's work. The techniques I use can pretty easily be duplicated using other graphics programs, some of them extremely inexpensive or even free.

For this lesson, I wanted to pick a pretty simple graphic so all the changes can be easily seen. I found an album cover "Something for Everybody" by Devo and it fit the bill nicely.










What you are looking for in order to make a great cutting is a LOT of contrast, and that is what this picture has. You CAN make just about any picture work, but you can save yourself a TON of work if you find a picture like this one - Trust me!

Now, I start by doing the exact same thing for just about every picture I work with - knock down the color and crank up the contrast. Here we go…………………….

In PhotoShop, Open your picture and hit "Control-U", or choose "Image, Adjustments, Hue/Saturation" to bring up the "Hue / Saturation" Window.










Slide the "Saturation" Bar (The middle one) all the way to the left. This will knock down any colors except shades of gray. Click "OK".










I think you can see where I'm going with this………

Now, choose "Image, Adjustments, Brightness/Contrast" to bring up the "Brightness / Contrast" Window.










Slide the Contrast bar all the way to the right. Now, you can "play" with the Brightness bar to give you the level of detail you need for this picture. I chose to set it to level +30. Any less and there would be too many shadows; any more and you start losing important details.










Now, we have to take care of a bunch of little details - all by hand I'm afraid…………………..

First, I used the pen and cleaned up (filled in) some of the areas around her chin and mouth. I also drew in some of the lines in her fingers as well as removing that nasty area under her lips.










Now I had to make a decision. How do I keep the teeth from falling out of her? I decided to draw a line where a camera flash would naturally go on her lips to connect her teeth to the rest of the image. I also cleaned up the miniature DEVO Hat she is putting in her mouth.










In essence, we are done right here! Read to cut. However, I took the liberty to add one more element to the image - the Band's name. I found the following image on-line and it is basically ready-made for scrollworking.










I cut just the band's name out of it, rotated it a tad and pasted it on her neck - sort of a tattoo of sorts.










NOW we are ready to print and cut. 

In closing, what advice can I give?

Less is more - keep is simple! This type of work relies a lot on the "mind's eye" to fill in the details. Don't try to capture every single shadow line or detail in the picture. You would be surprised what leaving out entire body parts will do. Take a quick look at this image of a past work I did.

Now, look at it again and notice the total lack of Han's Left arm - pretty cool, eh?

Don't worry about embellishing your work - it's an original after all! If you have to move something around, go for it! If you want to add or subtract elements, go for it!

Take a few steps back and stare for a while - I find that looking at your image from a distance shows you more what your finished piece will look like.

Only create as much as you need with the computer - if you are comfortable using a rough pattern that you can then embellish once you start cutting, by all means do so! In this case, I will probably cut in eyelashes and individual hairs around her head while I am cutting.

Practice, Practice and above all…………. Practice! Don't be afraid to screw something up - you learn from these mistakes.

Hope this helps!

Good luck!

-bob


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Bob, thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing this. This is the missing link I've been looking fer. Note: You missed that slober sliver on her tooth nearest the blue candy.  Missing arm, missing slober, artistic license I suppose. Nice blog. Thank you for sharing your secrets with the world.


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## Cozmo35 (Feb 1, 2010)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Bob, Thanks for posting this! I learned alot. I also use Photoshop to make patterns. You can "incorporate" a feature I use somewhere into your technique. I choose "Filter, Adjustments, Threshold". This will bring up a window that will allow you to adjust the level of detail. I am not trying to take anything away from your technique. I just thought might help.


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## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Cozmo,

I would NEVER refuse extra tips on any process I use - I have to give this a try now.

Thanks!

-bob


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## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing


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## flintbone (Oct 4, 2009)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your help Bob.
I'm still learning and this is a big help.


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## woodworkerscott (Sep 12, 2010)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Cool. Thanks for sharing the info. Very useful information.


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## scrollingmom (Aug 27, 2011)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your time and sharing.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done.

This will help.

Lee


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## rejo55 (Apr 5, 2012)

KnotCurser said:


> *Lesson #2 - Creating Patterns on the Computer*
> 
> Since I was asked by a TON of people over the last few months how I go about creating a scroll saw pattern from a picture I am going to attempt to share with you all just how I go about doing so.
> 
> ...


Always wondered how that was done. Got PhotoShop; all I need now is to convince Miss Honey Ma'am that I just gotsta have a new scrollsaw.

Thanks a ton fer the tutorial.

Have a good'un

Joe


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