# BLO?



## JerseyMike79 (Apr 7, 2012)

Hi All,

I've been lurking on this site for about 6 months nows while I create my woodshop. I am in the process of putting together a workbench, which the top consists of red oak T&G flooring over 2×4s, wrapped by poplar. I am interested in finishing the top with a finish that is durable, repairable and doesn't take away from the beauty of the red oak. I've done a sample board on the oak of BLO, Danish Oil and straight Poly. I like the way the BLO looks and the fact it penetrates the wood itself, however, am a little leery of it on the poplar. Has anyone had any good experiences with BLO on poplar?

Thanks for the insight, its making my head spin!

Mike


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I've used BLO on poplar quit a bit. I don't think it "pops" popular like it will oak, and it will turn it a yellowish color. If that's what you want, then use it. If you want the poplar to keep the milky white, use something else.


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## JerseyMike79 (Apr 7, 2012)

What is that "something else?"


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## benchbuilder (Sep 10, 2011)

I have a workbench made of poplar and used BLO on it for the past 25 years. its very dark now and the grain is very hard to see, this may be good on the edges wher you will get a lot of wear, but it does darken over time. Remember, what ever you put on the top of your workbench you have to put on the bottom side of the top to help it stay stable


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

It really depends on what you want it to look like. To darken it a little, I'd use a colored danish oil. You could also just wax it. I like poly over poplar to. You will find a love hate relation with poplar. I really like it. I cut a lot of native poplar with my sawmill, so I use it a lot.(well a lot compared to some other wood, I don't really use anything a lot anymore)


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## JerseyMike79 (Apr 7, 2012)

Im looking to keep the color of the poplar light to give a nice contrast to the oak top. I would need something that will absorb and harden in the wood, like a BLO, however not change the color.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

To not change the colour, use a water -borne poly like the one from Minwax. Goes on milky-white, dries crystal clear. Low to no odor, apply with a towel wrapped around a squeegee. Re-coat in a few hours. Poly-crylic I think is the name.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I don't care for poplar just because of how plain it typically is…and therefore oil doesn't really do much for it, like Don mentioned above. But if you like the look, then do it. I'd be more inclined to use a wood like pecan/hickory for that same whitish look. Of course, maple as well, but that's so unoriginal! 

My problem is using the poly on a work bench. It will do nothing to really protect your bench from the types of abuse your bench will take and will look ugly pretty fast. Then, it'll be a pain to strip it.

I'd just go with oil and wax. That way, you can easily replenish the finish on occasion without the painful need of stripping.

I'd use tung oil, however. IME, it doesn't shift the color to the yellow as much as BLO, which is why I don't typically use it. Plus, it seems to harden more than the BLO. You might try some polymerized tung oil, which is the 100% stuff thats been cooked off a bit, akin to BLO. It helps the drying time, which still takes days and maybe weeks. BLO will dry much faster by comparison.

BTW, typical danish oil uses tung oil. I don't see the advantage of using BLO ahead of it. But since I've never thought to try that, I just might be incredibly close minded.


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## JerseyMike79 (Apr 7, 2012)

That leads me to my next issue. How does one know in what order to layer finishes? i.e., shellac under a poly, or a danish oil under/over BLO?


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Waterlox original. Done


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I use shellac in between everything. Oil first for best saturation. As for Danish oil, that depends on the Danish oil. A true oil/varnish blend would go on after the BLO if you want to apply both. This is because once the varnish part hardens, the BLO can't really do anything. If its a Danish Oil like Watco that actually has no varnish in it - check the product data sheet - then it probably doesn't matter the order. I'd still put put down the BLO first just in case.

Shellac under poly poses no problems…that's more of a myth, IMO. Just use dewaxed shellac.

Still, as many have said, you are really over thinking this. Squirt the sucker with your choice of oil and be done with it. Reapply regularly for everlasting beauty. The beauty of the poly topcoat will be short lived, at less if you use your work bench the way I would.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

I can't think of any reason to use more than one type of oil finish….obviously you want a finish that soaks into the wood and becomes one with it , not one that lays on top of the wood (ie: poly) just to get nicked and chipped if you plan on using your bench. 
If you look up "Danish" oil , you will see that it is mostly solvent 60% and 20-30% Linseed oil and the balance are chemicals. So , essentially , you are putting Linseed oil on twice , and most of the "D" oil is just evaporating around you : )


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Woodcop, you'll be way ahead to pick up a book on finishing. I have Flexner's but there are other good ones out there.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Ditto on the Flexner text. Highly recommended.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

If you want a drying oil finish, use real tung oil. BLO is only good for starting fires.


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## JerseyMike79 (Apr 7, 2012)

Sounds like picking up a book is the best place to start, since I have the time as only the top portion of my bench is complete. The legs and stretchers won't be started until next week. Lastly, as far as finishing BOTH sides of the bench, I covered 2×4 w oak flooring. Since only the oak flooring will be getting the finish, I don't believe the underside of the 2x's need a finish, correct?


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

WC: There's a divided opinion on the "finishing both sides" argument. The aforementioned Flexner would tell you it's a myth. I would too. My argument comes from the fact that if such were true, then you'd see luthiers finishing the inside of their instruments. This would be especially true for you if the top boards are different than the bottom boards.

And BTW, I've heard Bob Taylor (Taylor Guitars) say the same thing about finishing both sides.


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## DaveFFMedic (Jun 20, 2012)

I'd have to say that BLO and wax will provide the best protection for you. As for aesthetics, BLO will tend to yellow your wood. If you're okay with the yellow tint, then go for it. I've used BLO on most of my projects, but I'm personally getting tired of looking at that yellow tone on everything. Though, most oil based finishes will give you the same effect. The only way I know of to avoid it is to use a water based finish.

Don't worry about finishing both sides. Unless there's a functional or aesthetic reason to finish more than the outside, you'll see no added benefit for the extra work and expense.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

I am not a big fan of BLO with exception of something like a workbench in a shop. BLO nothing more than bit of oil, petroleum distillates, metallic dryers. Read product MSDS for ingredient list, most say 100% oil, and do not list other ingredients.

Think you will find Tung oil less likely to yellow or darken wood. All wood will darken over time, no matter what finishing material you use except paint. Five or six coats helps in waterproofing, poor scratch proofing and have to wait too long between coats.

Most folks resort to either wiping varnish or oil varnish blend products. Again, have to read product ingredient list on container or MSDS to figure out what you have.

Formby's Tung oil finish, Waterlox, GF Sealcell & Arm-R-Seal all wiping varnishes.

Watco Danish Oil, Deft Danish Oil and Minwax Tung Oil all oil varnish blends.

If like me and have trouble reading product labels at the store check web sites for ingredients and instructions.


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