# Any experience with Vermont American router tables?



## namrufmot (Jan 10, 2016)

Working on a budget so finding a decent router table setup seems impossible…I need both the table and router. So combing through CL I find a Vermont American table and craftsman router for $150 (asking).

Never heard of this company and not much info is available online. Any experience? My other option would be to buy a Bosch on Amazon and a HF router.

Thanks as always!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Had one, they are junk. I gave it away. Vermont American is a peddler of low end tools.


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## redesigningwood (Feb 13, 2016)

Vermont American makes a lot of blade type stuff (router bits, bandsaw blades, etc.) right in the same ballpark of quality to ryobi/craftsman stuff (in my opinion). If you Know what you're doing pretty much any router will serve basic task type functions, and in term of a router table, I literally mounted a board to my workbench, cut a hole in it, and voila! table. Can't get any cheaper then that!





something like this -


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

You can make a much better router table than that. And they mistakenly moved the decimal one place to the right when they said $150. $15 would be more realistic.

The Craftsman router appears to be in the handyman category, which means it has a 1/4" collet, and no way to make it larger. Not being able to use 1/2" shank bits limits what you can do. I'd stay away from all over those C'man routers with 1/4" collets. I had one, long ago.

If you can't find a decent used router, Harbor Freight has a 2 hp (at 11 amps, about equivalent to Porter Cable's 690 series routers) for $53, less with a 20% coupon. It's not actually a bad router, in spite of what some may say. I bought one for a specific use, and keep it around as a backup.

Don't waste your money on that deal.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

My router table is a piece of salvaged countertop with shop made fence, been using it for 15 years or better. The VA table was given to me and it was sturdy but total crap otherwise and the top wasn't flat. Jay Bates uses a 2hp harbor freight router in his table. I use a Porter Cable.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Hmmm..









Both the table ($20) and the router ( $3) were from yard sales. I made a stand/bench to bring the top up to where I can use it ( and have) Router is an all metal B&D 1/4" professional. IF I need to use a 1/2" chuck..I already have a 2 hp router "kit" where I can swap out the 1/4" to a 1/2" collet.

Hey…look at what Norm Abram started out the New Yankee Workshop with….

The V/A table will get you started, while you build one of your own. use it to find out what YOU want in a router table. There are some of those, that one can also hang a sabresaw underneath. With the V/A table, you are not hurting some high dollar table if you go drilling into it to attach whatever you want to it.

Get some bits by Bosch instead of the V/A ones, BTW, the ones from Vermont American will go dull in about…three trips along a board. Then they will burn the boards after that. 









Mine was branded as SKIL, took a bit of fussing to get the B&D router to hang from it..









And this is the Big Router I also use..









Soo, IF you just need a router table to just start out, fine. Use it while you build one of your own. BTW Norm did have plans for the ones (2!!) that he made.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Sink cutout w/ router mounted, stacked on a garbage can with a stick & two C-clamps will work better than your current table. The ridged tops on most cheap router tables catch chips and snag while feeding stock - not a good thing. The sink blanks are usually free for the taking and provide a smooth even surface. You can get fancy and add a router plate if you wish.

M


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

The problem with all these little bench top tables is they are too small in both dimensions, when working on cabinet doors or using them to dado.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Really???









Worked fine for me..









Of course, I do happen to use the cordless kind to make rebates and dados…...









Of course, I also clean the top after I make a cut…...doesn't everybody?


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

Then live with it and dont post here for help and confirmation that you bought the right thing. Then when you need to do a bigger bit, 1/2in shaft dont post a Wo is Me, since you already think you know all you know, so why the original Thread? To tell us all about the "'Bargain"' you thought you got a few months B4 you ask how to fix and up grade. Simple F.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

That was not a dado, it was a groove, a dado is on a panel for a shelf. Dummy!!!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

^Now THAT is the "helpful" type of post you are so famous for…....as usual, a less than first class tip.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

How is the vibration and chatter with your toy router table??


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Have none on mine….


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> My other option would be to buy a Bosch on Amazon and a HF router.
> - namrufmot


Kind of curious as to why you think that is your only other option, when there are a lot more out there you could consider. Do you have a table saw? If so, a simple router extension can be made pretty easily, and would allow you to use your existing TS fence (and table for extra surface area). Building your own table is another option. You can find routers on CL all day long for not a lot of cash, and the material for a table can be sourced for free if you are creative.

Cheers,
Brad


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

From a LONG time ago. The cabinet with the blue door was my first router table…back when I also was based in a friends pole barn. It held several different routers, including one with a 1/2" collet. I could also set up a dovetail jig to make drawers. Times change, no longer have the room for all those larger "toys".

That table started out as a "table" that was then enclosed. There was an outlet inside, to plug the router into. Lead to a outlet box, with a regular "light switch" to turn the router off/on. Router was placed into the table with it's own switch locked "on". Top was a layer of 3/4" plywood, and a layer of 1/2" plywood, glued and screw together. Blue door was hinged along the bottom edge, to help clean out the insides. The hole for the routers was cut out to just allow them to fit through. A rebate was cut around the edges to allow a router plate to sit flush with the top's top. At first, it was a piece of 3/8" thick Lexan, later got a commercial style plate. had to readjust a few times to fit as things changed.

Table is still in use, my friend that owned the pole barn moved it to the new barn shop when he moved to a new place. There was also a groove to fit the mitre gauge from my 113 Craftsman tablesaw. Never really used it there. Table height was the same as the top of that saw, and could work as an out-feed table as needed.

Nowadays, just isn't the room for such LARGE toys. Sooo, I have to make do within the size of the Dungeon Shop. 









Underneath those planes is the old router table top, and a look at the plate that was used. If the OP was close enough, he can have that router table….all he'd have to do is drive over and pick it up,..router and all.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Whether or not that setup is appropriate depends highly on the work you'll be doing. If it's small stuff with light cuts, it'll probably suffice. If you want to do raised panel doors and the like, you'll outgrow it quickly.

But no matter if that is a good setup for your shop or not, $150 is way too steep.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I paid fifteen dollars for my first Vermont America router table. It came with a router. It was overpriced.


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## MikeUT (Sep 5, 2014)

It seems like there is a consensus on the choice. DON'T DO IT! I have that exact same table. I bought it used with a Ryobi router for $40. The router was junk and the table was decent. It got me started though. If that combo was around $40 I would say go for it but for that money you could do A LOT better. I would say blow your budget on a good router. I have a Dewalt that came with a plunge and a fixed base. The fixed base is installed on my vermont table and is only used there, while most of what I do is handheld with the plunge base. If you have both bases you can fasten the fixed base to a board and use it as a table. You can use it that way while you get a feel for the tool and decide how much of a table you want to build or buy.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I believe the OP has decided to build his own table. That one i posted from the Pole Barn Shop days was his inspiration to build his own.

I, on the other hand, do not have any room in that shop I have now. other than what I already am using. I even had to sell off my tablesaw, for lack of any room for it.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Working on a budget so finding a decent router table setup seems impossible

Buy the best router you can afford then build your own router table. They are not hard to build and there are thousands of plans out there. When buying a router get one w/ fixed base as they are usually cheaper and a plunge base is wasted in a router table.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

> Then live with it and dont post here for help and confirmation that you bought the right thing. Then when you need to do a bigger bit, 1/2in shaft dont post a Wo is Me, since you already think you know all you know, so why the original Thread? To tell us all about the " Bargain" you thought you got a few months B4 you ask how to fix and up grade. Simple F.
> 
> - conifur


Is it hard carrying around such hate?


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## Pook (Dec 26, 2018)

I have experience with this little table. It's cheap, doesn't take up space and works (but it's finky!) There are two main problems with it- dust control and elevating the bit. ( I was unable to attach a picture.)

1. I solved the elevation problem by attaching the table to a piece of particle board. Then I built a fulcrum which was a 4" x 6" scrap of wood screwed onto similar piece (like an upside down T) At this point I haven't screwed it to the base. Now I can release the lock on my plunge router and with a long stick under it, I can move the router up and down. It works pretty well.

2. A router throws out a lot of chips, making a mess of everything. If you secure the end of a Shop-Vac hose near the bit, it picks up 90% of the dust. I have just used string, but may make a Y shaped bracket to hold it.

I should also point out I added a bit of wood to the fences to give more control. The results have been pretty good, and you can always improve on my ideas.


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## Kimthen00b (Oct 31, 2021)

Hi all

Reviving this old thread because the OP included a picture of my router table. I am now semi retired and wanted to do a few projects. I am NOT a woodworker I am a glass person…soooooooooooo I am an amateur. This table had a router attached long ago but from setting in the shed unused for so long it sparked and died when I plugged in so I trashed it. Think old dirt dabber nest were present.

I did not make notes on how to reinstall a new router. Thought it wold be a no brainier when I wanted to dabble again. NOT SO!!.

Couple of days ago I went down to Harbour Freight and bought a 2 HP flush mount router..a cheapo Drill Master..didn't want to waste my plunge router on a table. Remember I am a N00b at this stuff and these question will sound stupid. HTF do I attach a router to an aluminum table.???? Yeah.. I know wood ones are easy to make but I don't do this stuff very often. Plus this table is my size and light.

The 3 holes on the plate of the router do not match up with anything on the table 0_0. Do the screws come from the top of the table or up from the bottom somewhere. I am usually quite mechanical but this thing is kicking my butt. It can't be that hard I keep telling myself…

I am making a table and I need to do that thing on the legs to make them removable when wanted. 4 lousy 3 inch router runs.

I have googled the gnarly ends of the net and all the vids leave out this attachment step. Then I found you all.

HELP!!

Thanks
Kim


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I laid out and drilled counter-sunk holes through that SKIL router table that matched up with the B&D router that I wanted to use in the table. I used slightly longer bolts, that still match the ones B&D used to attach the base to the router. 









Still in use, BTW. Fence is…special. I use it on my Tablesaw as the rip fence…use it to guide a circular saw to make a straight cut across a panel…and as a guide for a router when cutting dados across a panel. Just 3 pieces of scraps….been in use since the late 1990s…









and…









Cutting for sliding dovetails on that router table..









Ready to go to work….









Mark a Start and a Stop line….1/2 blind dovetails can be done…at least the sockets…I still hand cut the tails…









OK..take the base off of the router…lay in on the table's top….make sure the hole for the bit lines up between the base and the table….poke a Black Sharpie through the 3 hole in the base. Make sure all you will be drilling through is just the top of the table…no other junk in the way, Rotate to find the best clear spot…drill those 3 holes, come back and counter sink them…Bolts go down into the router through the top of the table…...Make sure the bolts will settle down into the countersink…as you want the heads to be flush or slightly lower than the top of the table..

Done.

BTW…USE the switch provided with that table….you plug the router into that switch. Router's "ON" button is always ON…Switch should have it's own power cord….plug that in where you can for power. Unplug either cords to change bits or settings.

Anything else?


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

I had a cheap Sears router table decades ago, that was identical to the Vermont American. It worked, and getting it to work, was not difficult: make sure it is fastened to a heavier bench, etc., so that it does not move. Make sure the bits you are using are of decent quality. Make sure the fence is tightened securely if using a fence. Make sure you do not hog cuts.

I graduated maybe 3 decades ago to a Porter Cable router table, with their Model 690 router. It was a step up. Today, I have a Kreg unit, with a 3HP Porter Cable router and again a step up. But…..if I have my druthers, I would use my shaper, with power feeder hands down.


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## Kimthen00b (Oct 31, 2021)

@ bandit571 & AMZ

Thanks so much for the replies. It is becoming much clearer but I am not there yet.

Because this table is die cast aluminum there are thick and thinner areas on the surface where I will need to drill. Looks like the areas I need to drill are about 1/8" I think or less. I know how to counter sink..(think that's what it is called) but how much is too much? I do get the screws must be flush with the surface.

From looking at the flat head screws I have to be dead on because of the restrictions of the thickness I must deal with. Is there a point to which the router can bust loose and cause me major grief? As a N00b I am overally respectful of very sharp spinning bits and blades and I would like to keep all of my fingers.

Again..Thanks so much for your patience with me.

Kim


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Kim, you are fine, and BTW welcome to LJ's. The good thing is the net offers a ton of good solid info. The bad thing is you have to wade through demeaning, dismissive, posters, and a lot of don't know any other way, or for some, any way at all.

About the original post Vermont American makes low dollar tooling, and jigs to allow people not wanting to spend a fortune, to get something done. The trade off is they will always require more fiddling, tweaking, and measuring to keep them online, and cutting as you want them to.

I can remember fondly my first several router tables. Sheets of plywood laying across 2 saw horses. The router was screwed directly to the underside of the plywood, a hole was punched out with a hole saw, because back then none of us had heard of a Forstner bit, or a router table. Amazon? Computer? Huh, what????

For a fence we would (sometimes) joint a 2×4, and clamp it to either side of the hole.

I can remember how excited I was to finally have control on cuts made for cabinet frames.

Today a bunch will go into a funk if they can't find a router that is voice activated, or controlled by their cell toy.


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## Kimthen00b (Oct 31, 2021)

LOL Love the cell toy comment…

So funny.. you bring up so many truths in your comment about forums and net garbage and those behind the post. I am a self taught geek to the bone and when I hit a super mind bending problem
they stick with the "Go To" it's a virus answers. Err I hunt viruses down manually so it ain't that.

Just an example with the geek thing. I am also a forum rat..not woodworking but other topics that I will not divulge here. I read most of the forum topics before I registered so I could get a feel for the personalities here. Have to say KUDOS!! Seems to be a very good group. From what I could gather most here are pros and really enjoy what they do and would not mind sharing their knowledge with a hobbyist wanna be.

My skill set is in stained glass (40 years) and I made my 1st birch frame a few months ago for a 5' x 6' panel. I impressed even me and that is hard to do  It came out perfect. However I did NOT miter the frame because mitering is not friendly to me and I always screw it up. I ran my 1/4" groove on me lil girly table saw and filled the ends in with wood putty. That in itself would make a wood Pro cringe but since they were going to paint it I did what I did. Mitering is one of the things on my wish list to perfect.

Because stained glass is my thing my imagination has gone wild with all of the cool things I could do with a router, glass and my scroll saw. I so want to get this thing attached properly.

Still giggling about the cell toy..I personally don't own one.

Kim


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

A router table is a pretty simple device. I would build one before spending any money on buying one. There are router tables out there selling for $500+


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## Kimthen00b (Oct 31, 2021)

Just an update.

I took the Drill Master back to Harbour Freight..after all of the fussing come to find out the bit lock nut was no where near center on the darn thing. Defective they said. Now Out of stock.  ..sooooooooooooo

I picked up a Skill, marked my holes, drilled, counter sunk, inserted screws on the table and cranked it up. Works as it should. My removable table legs are now done and ready for the final stages.

Thanks for the help all. Much appreciated.

Kim


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