# $20 insurance policy for blade changes.. Hopefully!



## J2Jonner (Apr 8, 2015)

First time poster! I have been reviewing many shop setups and gear reviews as I reconfigure my workshop to be more wood oriented and productive with some new to me equipment I recently acquired. While exploring TS outlet locations I happened upon a number of reminders to UNPLUG the TS during blade changes. I have to admit - can't recall the last time I even had the thought of unplugging my unisaw for something! So - in an effort to be more safety conscious and knowing full well I wouldn't go to the rear of the machine to do anything before a blade change, this is what I came up with:



















This SquareD 30A disconnect was $15 at the box store and with an additional $5 for fuses for inside I think it makes a GREAT alternative to running around to the plug or across the room to the breaker panel. It provides a positive and lockable disconnect and is in a location where I will not be during blade changes. It also has fused legs, this may or may not be a plus depending on your point of view (but they didn't have a disconnect with an external handle and a breaker).
Since I was running ceiling drops over to this location now was the time to implement, as you can see I also added a 20A GFCI mounted to the front for convenience. This is possible as I ran 10/4 cord and decided to standardize on L1420 plugs which carry the neutral. Your setup may not have this, but its not needed if you want to implement the disconnect as a safety item.










Thanks to everyone for all the ideas!

Jon


----------



## thechipcarver (Jan 29, 2014)

Safety first. Great job.


----------



## dpoisson (Jun 3, 2010)

I was at a local woodworking school a couple of years ago. I wanted to rout a profile on a panel and went to the router room (they had 3 routers on a single table). I unplugged the one in front of me (or so I thought, the plug was underneath the table and kind of hidden) and proceeded to change the router bit. Once I was done, I hit the power switch on the table and noticed the router on the left started up, not the one I had switched the bit! The router I had manipulated had been plugged in all along. My heart sank.

From now on, I VISUALLY check to make sure the proper machine is unplugged (I follow the cord from machine to wall) and I try to power it on. Only then will I touch the powertool.

David


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Good idea. My TS start button is wired so that it won't come on unless my DC is running. If the DC is off, I'm good for a blade change.


----------



## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

Just curious, what is the HP for your Griz, and why 10/4?


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I have to admit - can't recall the last time I even had the thought of unplugging my unisaw for something!


That is one funny looking Unisaw 

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## J2Jonner (Apr 8, 2015)

bones: no particular NEED for the 10/4, the Griz is 3HP - but the run was short and in conduit on the ceiling and I didn't feel like ever having to do it again if I needed more than 20A. Once I was pulling wire, I figured why not run the neutral as well.

MrUnix: The Grizzly is a recent purchase from a gentlemen getting out of woodworking, its like new. So now is the opportunity to tear the unisaw down and give her a good top-off inspection/cleaning/restore. Hopefully in short order she will take her place next to the 1023SL in place of the 2×4 extension table you see.


----------



## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> bones: no particular NEED for the 10/4, the Griz is 3HP - but the run was short and in conduit on the ceiling and I didn t feel like ever having to do it again if I needed more than 20A. Once I was pulling wire, I figured why not run the neutral as well.
> 
> MrUnix: The Grizzly is a recent purchase from a gentlemen getting out of woodworking, its like new. So now is the opportunity to tear the unisaw down and give her a good top-off inspection/cleaning/restore. Hopefully in short order she will take her place next to the 1023SL in place of the 2×4 extension table you see.
> 
> ...


I understand on the "just in case" I was wondering about the 4 conductor need? Are you wanting 120 and 240 at the same location? You could have got by with 10/2?

I had a 1023slx for over 10 years. Great saw for the money!


----------



## J2Jonner (Apr 8, 2015)

> I understand on the "just in case" I was wondering about the 4 conductor need? Are you wanting 120 and 240 at the same location? You could have got by with 10/2?
> 
> I had a 1023slx for over 10 years. Great saw for the money!
> 
> - bonesbr549


I could have gotten by with 10/3 cord, but yes just to have access to 120 at each of these locations. I can add the outlets as above, or can add lighting if desired to future equipment benches. I have actually found that already to be a useful outlet location. Its the closest one to the garage door and right in the middle of the opening.

Jon


----------



## smitdog (Aug 20, 2012)

Awesome Jon, I like your implementation of a safety shutoff! I also like that it looks like the throw switch can be padlocked in the off position. I've been thinking about safety devices more now that I've started foster parenting. I keep the shop area locked up but it's not overly secure and I know one of those kidos at some point will figure out how to get in there. I like the idea of being able to key lock the power off to prevent it being turned on at all when I'm not in there.


----------

