# Can a mineral oil finish be dry to the touch?



## AbridgedPause (Dec 1, 2016)

I attempted to refinish an old 10×10x3.5 wooden box made of 6/16 inch thickness wood.T the type of box you see as decoration or on counter-tops. I really don't like the type of color or gloss that varnishes give, I wanted something more natural. So I went with a butcher/cutting board-style mineral oil and pure lemon oil mix. I removed all the old varnish and sanded the box down to the bare wood with heavy and then fine grit. I then applied two coats of of the mineral oil/lemon oil mix, one day apart to let it soak in completely.

The problem is that the wood is now oily and not completely dry to the touch. I want to be able to put papers in this box so I really don't want any oil to seep out of the wood. The wood is rather thin, 6/16 inch, but a single application of oil wasn't enough and it really needed a second coat to penetrate fully. It's been almost a week now and it's still not dry. I took paper towels tonight and with some scrubbing I was able to rub some of the oil out.

I know that cutting boards in kitchens aren't usually this oily to the touch. I have also read that a mix of mineral oil and beeswax can give a better sealant and smoother finish, which I am now thinking may have been what I should have done in the first place. However, with the wood already saturated with mineral oil and lemon oil, I can hardly apply another coat of oil mixed with beeswax at this point right?

What can I do to get this box dry enough so that papers can be kept in this box without getting damaged by the oil?
Please let me know if you need pictures or additional information to help with suggestions.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Mineral oil is not a drying oil (it does not cure with exposure to O2, like BLO), so no…it will never dry. That said, I'm not sure what you solution is. My first thought would be to coat the inside with shellac, typically it sticks to everything, dries with no lingering odor, and should be plenty durable for the interior. Even so, I'm not sure it will adhere with mineral oil…you could test it first and go from there. I suspect you can also apply the coat of mineral oil/beeswax you want to use, I'm uncertain what the effect will be.


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## Mikesawdust (Jan 29, 2010)

Not a problem I'm familiar with but I might try putting the box opened in the oven on low for a while to at least try to clear the surface a little, then apply a couple of coats of shellac


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## becikeja (Sep 12, 2010)

I attempted my first cutting board a few months ago, and had the same issue. I didn't think the thing would ever dry. What I did: Every morning before I left for work I wiped it dry. When I go home from work I wiped it dry, I can't recall how many days I did this but eventually it dry. Then I covered with a butcher block wax/oil finish I picked up at big box store and all was good.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Sand it off and start over. Mineral oil will never dry.


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## AbridgedPause (Dec 1, 2016)

> I attempted my first cutting board a few months ago, and had the same issue. I didn t think the thing would ever dry. What I did: Every morning before I left for work I wiped it dry. When I go home from work I wiped it dry, I can t recall how many days I did this but eventually it dry. Then I covered with a butcher block wax/oil finish I picked up at big box store and all was good.
> 
> - becikeja


I'm glad to see that at least 1 person here can actually help me with this problem. Some of you people are too quick to give up.

As for the shellac option, I'm not happy with the way that looks in the end, so that's not something I'm willing to try.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Becikeja echoes my experience.

For cutting boards I saturate the wood as much as possible, then let it sit for a day or two. You can see obvious areas where etc oil has all soaked in and areas that are still "wet".

I'll rub down the board with paper towels until the surface is all dry. The next day, some of the oil will have begun to seep out of the pores so I use the paper towels again.

Eventually it will be "dry" to the touch, just keep after it.

As to keeping papers in it, you are asking for some residual oil to soak into the papers after some time and causing stains. 
Mineral oil is perfect for cutting boards because it is cheap, easy to apply and restore, doesn't go sour or rancid, and of course absorbs into the wood to help keep water out.

For the same look with paper storage in mind, you really need a "curing" oil like BLO or tung. Danish oil also keeps the "dull" look even though it has varnish added. These oils eventually harden and would probably be a better choice.


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## mrbob (Nov 3, 2016)

To get rid of it in the box I would try wiping the wood with some Acetone or Naphtha.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

6/16" is an interesting dimension. You could also say 12/32, 24/64, or 48/128". Or, you could just say 3/8".


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> 6/16" is an interesting dimension. You could also say 12/32, 24/64, or 48/128". Or, you could just say 3/8".
> 
> - runswithscissors


or 9.525mm 

I'm kinda glad I didn't offer an opinion. 
I might of ended up being one of those unappreciated guys that gives up to easily!


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> I m kinda glad I didn t offer an opinion.
> I might of ended up being one of those unappreciated guys that gives up to easily!
> 
> - jbay


Yep, a mistake I won't make again.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I put mineral oil on a expandable trivet almost 2 years ago that I gave to a friend. It did eventually dry and now looks awful so I would never use that on anything other than a food contact board or bowl that you will refresh periodically. I think that the MO dries through evaporation so to speed it along, which could take months, warm air and a fan blowing on it may be your best hope. You could try filling the interior with sawdust, wood shavings or finely shredded paper for a while to absorb as much of the surface oil as possible first. You need to wait until the surface looks dry before refinishing. Even then, I don't know what affect any residual MO will have on it accepting a new finish.

For the look it sounds like you want, boiled linseed oil or Danish oil are the way to go. I like Tried and True Varnish oil. It is basically an old school BLO with a little natural resin for a little extra surface protection. It takes many coats before you get a satin finish. They have one without the varnish too. A satin wiping polyurethane thinned even further with mineral spirits can also give you a similar look. All of these require multiple coats and you simply stop when you achieve the "natural" look you are shooting for.


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## chas618 (Dec 4, 2016)

Newbie, here just had to jump in. I did a butcher block island and finished it in a food grade pure tung oil from the real milk paint company. The finish is beautiful. Still looks great a couple years later.


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## leafherder (Jan 20, 2013)

Hi Alex,

As a woodworker with a Master's Degree in Archival Administration I have a special interest in your predicament.

1. Basic paper conservation practices do not recommend storing paper in unsealed wood containers - Chemicals in the wood will react with chemicals in the paper to speed up the deterioration. Wood file cabinets, shelves, or boxes should be finished with a waterproof sealant that is fully cured/dried. Also unsealed wood can absorb moisture and humidity which can be transmitted to the paper encouraging the growth of mold and mildew. Metal file cabinets with baked enamel finishes are best for storing paper as they are fire resistant as well as water resistant.

2. Of all the things that can damage paper, oil is the worst - water can be dried, dirt can be removed, but oil seeps into the fibers and causes permanent damage. Do not even think of storing any important papers in your box until you have resolved your oil problem and properly sealed the wood.

3. Removing the oil from saturated wood will be difficult and time consuming. Packing the whole box (inside and out) with absorbent paper which is changed regularly is your only hope. During the process you will need to keep the box in a warm location (cold temperatures will cause the oil to congeal which will slow down the process). You should also turn the box regularly so the oil does not settle at the bottom.

4. If you are impatient to speed up the process you could try a commercial de-greasing agent (household cleaners that remove grease and oil). BE WARNED, these can damage the wood. The process would be: apply degreaser to entire surface, allow to sit a for a few minutes, wipe off. Let the box sit for a few days to allow oils that were absorbed deep into the wood to migrate to the surface, then repeat. Still a lengthy process. This will not be easy.

Good luck


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## Ted78 (Dec 3, 2012)

Hmm, building on what other people have said here, I would try filling the box with something that will absorb the oil, dry fine sawdust of some type of softer wood maybe? Or maybe even the stuff you put on concrete driveways to absorb oil spills? Mineral oil is just a thinner version of motor oil really. I would also set it someplace really warm so the oil flows better. Your not going to get rid of or remove all the oil, but should get rid of enough of it it it doesn't feel oily. I have found raw ('non-boiled' which actually means they have not added metallic dryers to{also called japan dryer} eventually just get tacky and gooey) mineral oils don't seem to change at all with age. they just stay oily. Danish Oil, Tung oil, watco oil etc are almost always some kind of oil/varnish blend. They go on like an oil finish and soak in, but offer better protection than just oil. I often like to thin linseed oil with turpentine or paint thinner or whatever, and a bit of japan dryer. It's quick, and easy and brings out the grain beautifully, but offers no protection, still has to be sealed afterwards somehow. You could use beeswax after soaking up the mineral oil, I think it would work fine, but floor wax would give you the same look, a bit more protection without adding to the oiliness, the carrier for floor wax evaporates away unlike the oil beeswax is usually mixed with. Any of those oil/varnish blends like tung oil or danish oil I think would also be good choices. Alright I've rambled enough. Good Luck. I don't think your problem is as difficult to overcome as some make it out to be.


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## PineSucks (Aug 3, 2015)

I have to wonder if oil dry / kitty litter might help with the absorption process.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Been there, done that. I just washed the item down with thinner, then let the thinner gas off. When that was done, I applied a coat of oil based poly to seal the wood.

The oil does not evaporate. Rather, it wicks. It's unlikely you saturated the wood, so sealing the surfaces should solve the problem of contact with items, while the oil wicks deeper into the wood.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

splintergroup said:


> Eventually it will be "dry" to the touch, just keep after it.


 So mineral oil can dry after all? How long do you think one has to wait?


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

Lazyman said:


> I put mineral oil on an expandable trivet almost 2 years ago that I gave to a friend. It did eventually dry


Did it take two years for the mineral oil to dry?! I sure hope not! I hope it'd take weeks or at least months. Any recollection of how long it took yours to dry? Thanks.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Mineral oil may evaporate or as pointed out weep out of the wood but it never "drys". 
I would suggest you thoroughly clean the inside of the box with Naptha (it leaves no residue of it's own). Let is dry for a couple of days in a warm place. Then apply two or three coats of de-waxed shellac, sand lightly to remove any nubs. That should do it for sealing any oil still in the wood and make it "fairly" safe storing archive papers. If the papers are really valuable or important you might want to put them in archival covers also.

If you want to add more finish, couple of days later apply a polyurethane finish, again 2 or 3 coats. I would use a water based poly to reduce the amount of VOCs that it will give off.


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

I've made about 90 end grain and face grain cutting boards along with probably 50 trivets from Walnut, Maple, Cherry and all have been coated with store brand mineral oil. 

Mineral oil acts as a conditioner, not a finish, and yes it will become dry to the touch in a short period. I've shipped cutting boards and trivets all over the country and each was soaked a couple of times over a couple of days with the final coat containing Beeswax on the cutting boards. Each arrived with a thin film that easily wiped off to reveal a dry board. 

I don't believe any subsequent finish will ever adhere properly after mineral oil has been applied. My $0.02. YMMV


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

LesB said:


> Mineral oil may evaporate or as pointed out weep out of the wood but it never "drys".


So you think mineral oil won't dry but will instead evaporate? How long do you think it might take for this to happen? Weeks? Months? Years? Any specific timeframe? Have you tested it before?

I only ask because I accidentally smeared "Johnson's Baby Oil Gel with Aloe Vera & Vitamin E" (it has a lot of mineral oil in it, see the link below to the specific product) on my cabinet and doorframe - now, distilled white vinegar seems to have removed it from the doorframe but I'm not entirely sure if it did so with the cabinet as it feels oily (consider the darker stain too) - but if it'll eventually evaporate, as you say, that'd be great! I don't really care for stains, I just hate that oily feeling and hate thinking that it could potentially spread elsewhere.

I've attached three pics:

(a) one is the white vinegar I used
(b) the other (top of cabinet) is the part damaged by the baby oil - note how it shines
(c) the last pic is of that same top part of the cabinet from a bird's eye view - note that the extreme right of the top is perfectly clean - no oil, no shininess. 

Here's the link to the baby oil product that was used: Johnson's Baby Oil Gel with Aloe Vera & Vitamin E - 6.5 fl oz.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

difalkner said:


> Mineral oil acts as a conditioner, not a finish, and yes it will become dry to the touch in a short period.


Please see my post below or above (I'm not sure where this thread will place it in relation to your post) regarding my own headaches with baby oil (it has mineral oil in it).

In your experience, how long did it take for the mineral oil to dry off? Weeks? Months?


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

Justin123 said:


> In your experience, how long did it take for the mineral oil to dry off? Weeks? Months?


We're talking days. I can oil an end grain cutting board today, tomorrow, add the final application with Beeswax mixed in, and within a couple of days it's dry to the touch. In some cases with really heavy application the oil may resurface in a week or so but a quick wipe down with a paper towel removes that and I seldom see it reappear.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

difalkner said:


> We're talking days. I can oil an end grain cutting board today, tomorrow, add the final application with Beeswax mixed in, and within a couple of days it's dry to the touch. In some cases with really heavy application the oil may resurface in a week or so but a quick wipe down with a paper towel removes that and I seldom see it reappear.


That's so interesting - I wonder why so many on the internet then say that mineral oil never dries? The Johnson's Baby Oil seemed to not have dried much, and that was at least after ten days, but perhaps that's because I had spilled a whole lot on - not mere drops.


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

Justin123 said:


> That's so interesting - I wonder why so many on the internet then say that mineral oil never dries?


I doubt it was ever dry but the surface of the cutting boards are dry to the touch. The oil is certainly in the pores of the wood but just not evident on the surface so the Internet is probably right. 

We have a cutting board I made a few years ago and I oil it once each year. It's been a while and probably due another application but right now it feels as dry as the counter around it although I'm certain the oil is still present.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

difalkner said:


> I doubt it was ever dry but the surface of the cutting boards are dry to the touch. The oil is certainly in the pores of the wood but just not evident on the surface so the Internet is probably right.
> 
> We have a cutting board I made a few years ago and I oil it once each year. It's been a while and probably due another application but right now it feels as dry as the counter around it although I'm certain the oil is still present.


David, so you think that at least the surface should dry off, right? And that it takes about a year? When was the last time you oiled your cutting board?


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

For those who think the mineral oil "feels" dry the question is, would you dare to put the article (ie. a cutting board treated with mineral oil) on your spouses best linen table cloth? I sure wouldn't because you never know when some of the oil in the wood will leach out. 

If you want an oil that drys or more correctly it cures (polymerizes) try heat treated Walnut oil. Murphy's or Doctor's work. Others are BLO which is also a heat treated oil but may also contain dryers which are "heavy metals"; or Tung oil which can take a long time to cure. Danish oil is usually a combination of those including the dryers. 

I don't know how vinegar works on removing oil. Usually a solvent works to thin and draw the oil out of the wood. Naptha being my choice. If the oil stained the wood then vinegar or oxalic acid will help remove the stain after the oil is removed by the solvent.


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## JohnDon (Mar 14, 2015)

Apologies up front, but as a one-time chemist I can't resist jumping on my soapbox. Pure (or relatively pure) substances such as mineral oil cannot "dry", but they can evaporate. Something that can dry (be it paint, wet towel, or shellac), is a combination of a volatile compound, which will evaporate (water, DNA, mineral spirits, etc.), leaving a non-volatile substance behind on the application surface. What determines the volatility (rate of evaporation) of anything is its inherent vapor pressure (it's "desire" to change from a liquid (or solid) to a gas).

As a rule, especially in the family of organic/petroleum related compounds, the larger the molecule, the lower its vapor pressure (volatility); but they all will have _some_ vapor pressure, even if extremely low. At 20 degrees C (68 F), the vapor pressure of acetone is 186 mmHg, ethanol 46 mmHg, and mineral oil <0.08 mmHg. So, mineral oil will indeed eventually evaporate, but it will take years to decades. As others have noted, the perception of mineral oil "drying" is likely due to wicking into the wood fibers.

As has already been said, the best way to remove mineral oil is with organic solvents or grease removers. With all due respect, vinegar is not a good solution for dissolving oils. Okay, off the soapbox!


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

JohnDon said:


> Apologies up front, but as a one-time chemist I can't resist jumping on my soapbox. Pure (or relatively pure) substances such as mineral oil cannot "dry", but they can evaporate. Something that can dry (be it paint, wet towel, or shellac), is a combination of a volatile compound, which will evaporate (water, DNA, mineral spirits, etc.), leaving a non-volatile substance behind on the application surface. What determines the volatility (rate of evaporation) of anything is its inherent vapor pressure (it's "desire" to change from a liquid (or solid) to a gas).
> 
> As a rule, especially in the family of organic/petroleum related compounds, the larger the molecule, the lower its vapor pressure (volatility); but they all will have _some_ vapor pressure, even if extremely low. At 20 degrees C (68 F), the vapor pressure of acetone is 186 mmHg, ethanol 46 mmHg, and mineral oil <0.08 mmHg. So, mineral oil will indeed eventually evaporate, but it will take years to decades. As others have noted, the perception of mineral oil "drying" is likely due to wicking into the wood fibers.
> 
> As has already been said, the best way to remove mineral oil is with organic solvents or grease removers. With all due respect, vinegar is not a good solution for dissolving oils. Okay, off the soapbox!


So you think the oil from the product linked below will never truly evaporate or dry - at least for years, even decades, rights?









Amazon.com: Johnson's Baby Oil Gel with Aloe Vera & Vitamin E, Hypoallergenic Baby Skin Care, 6.5 fl. oz : Baby


Buy Johnson's Baby Oil Gel with Aloe Vera & Vitamin E, Hypoallergenic Baby Skin Care, 6.5 fl. oz on Amazon.com ✓ FREE SHIPPING on qualified orders



www.amazon.com


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

Justin123 said:


> David, so you think that at least the surface should dry off, right? And that it takes about a year? When was the last time you oiled your cutting board?


No, it doesn't take a year. A week at most before the cutting boards are dry to the touch, sometimes sooner. Again, though, the oil isn't dry but it does appear to be fully soaked into the wood. It's probably been a year so it's time to oil again.


LesB said:


> For those who think the mineral oil "feels" dry the question is, would you dare to put the article (ie. a cutting board treated with mineral oil) on your spouses best linen table cloth?


I would but I typically use silicone rubber feet on cutting boards so no problem with oil seeping out.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

difalkner said:


> No, it doesn't take a year. A week at most before the cutting boards are dry to the touch, sometimes sooner. Again, though, the oil isn't dry but it does appear to be fully soaked into the wood. It's probably been a year so it's time to oil again.
> 
> I would but I typically use silicone rubber feet on cutting boards so no problem with oil seeping out.


I see. In relation to my problem, the wooden doorframe seemed to still be oily (albeit maybe not _as _oily as when I first spilled it) after about ten days. Have you ever had a time when the cutting board was oily for, say, two weeks? Or perhaps a month?


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

How much mineral oil do you usually put on the cutting board? Because I did spill a whole lot on my cabinet, etc. Perhaps if I had only spilled a smudge, it might have cleared up in a week?


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

Justin123 said:


> I see. In relation to my problem, the wooden doorframe seemed to still be oily (albeit maybe not _as _oily as when I first spilled it) after about ten days. Have you ever had a time when the cutting board was oily for, say, two weeks? Or perhaps a month?


No sir, always dry to the touch in a few days. I've never had one go even a full week staying wet, not that I recall anyway.


Justin123 said:


> How much mineral oil do you usually put on the cutting board? Because I did spill a whole lot on my cabinet, etc. Perhaps if I had only spilled a smudge, it might have cleared up in a week?


I soak it completely and let it stand for an hour or two then wipe it off. Then I do it again the next day. On the third day I'll use my mixture that has Beeswax in it. If I'm shipping the board I'll let it set another day, wipe it off, then wrap it in paper towels and ship it with the instructions to wipe off any excess oil. I've asked a fair number of recipients if there was oil and none have said that it keeps seeping out.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

difalkner said:


> No sir, always dry to the touch in a few days. I've never had one go even a full week staying wet, not that I recall anyway.
> 
> I soak it completely and let it stand for an hour or two then wipe it off. Then I do it again the next day. On the third day I'll use my mixture that has Beeswax in it. If I'm shipping the board I'll let it set another day, wipe it off, then wrap it in paper towels and ship it with the instructions to wipe off any excess oil. I've asked a fair number of recipients if there was oil and none have said that it keeps seeping out.


I know this perhaps sounds nuts, but being that it has a lot of mineral oil in it, do you think you'd get the same result from "Johnson's Baby Oil Gel with Aloe Vera & Vitamin E"? Link to product here: https://www.amazon.com/Johnsons-Bab...t=&hvlocphy=9005868&hvtargid=pla-869035219136.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Justin123 said:


> Did it take two years for the mineral oil to dry?


Not sure how long it took exactly to stop feeling oily but it took more than a year. After about 2 years it looked terrible -- almost like it had not been finished at all. I suspect that it was just fully absorbed into the wood or possibly rubbed off the trivets onto the pots. I actually did an experiment where I put several grams of MO into a shallow open dish and left it sitting around to see if it would evaporate. Even after several of months sitting around, there was no measurable reduction of the weight and it still looked like it did when I put it into the dish. I would not use MO again. Tung oil is a much better, more durable option that actually cures to give you a little bit of sheen.


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## PCDub (Sep 24, 2017)

If your furniture has a finish on it, the oil will not soak in, so the surface will not "dry." You need to use a solvent to remove the oil, as it's sitting on top of the finished surface (unless the finish is damaged, in which case, some of it has soaked in, and some of it is sitting on top of the undamaged finish).


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

Lazyman said:


> Not sure how long it took exactly to stop feeling oily but it took more than a year. . . . I actually did an experiment where I put several grams of MO into a shallow open dish and left it sitting around to see if it would evaporate. Even after several of months sitting around, there was no measurable reduction of the weight and it still looked like it did when I put it into the dish.


How many months was that? I hope mineral oil does fully evaporate eventually.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I checked it weekly for about the first month and then just when I noticed it sitting on the counter. I think that I finally threw it out after about 6 months.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

Lazyman said:


> I checked it weekly for about the first month and then just when I noticed it sitting on the counter. I think that I finally threw it out after about 6 months.


So it never evaporated at all?


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

PCDub said:


> If your furniture has a finish on it, the oil will not soak in, so the surface will not "dry." You need to use a solvent to remove the oil, as it's sitting on top of the finished surface (unless the finish is damaged, in which case, some of it has soaked in, and some of it is sitting on top of the undamaged finish).


I used distilled white vinegar and it seemed to get most of it off - unless I missed a spot or two - hence, why I hoped the oil would dry out or evaporate but I guess it takes years so that's a bummer.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Justin123 said:


> So it never evaporated at all?


Not that I could detect. My scale could measure tenths of a gram. I forgot to mention that I actually had a fan blowing directly on it for the first few days in hopes it might help.


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## Justin123 (1 mo ago)

Lazyman said:


> Not that I could detect. My scale could measure tenths of a gram. I forgot to mention that I actually had a fan blowing directly on it for the first few days in hopes it might help.


Thanks.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I would think that a solvent like mineral spirits would be more effective than vinegar but it if it got it off, that is good to know. I wonder if the vinegar might leave some residue behind that might affect application of a finish? It is a mild acid.

I just googled how to remove MO from wood and found this. They recommend mineral spirits, grain alcohol or citrus solvent. I think that they they all evaporate quickly so should not leave residue behind that could affect a finish. 








Removing Mineral Oil


Learn the benefits of removing mineral oil from wood surfaces plus tips and tricks including what tools you should use. Contact Real Milk Paint today for additional information.




www.realmilkpaint.com


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