# Dovetail box in Mahogany and Poplar (in 4 parts)



## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

*four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*

Hi Everyone,

Well, I promised that I would do this. Here is a video I did at the castle last night. The woods are mahogany and poplar. I believe that this is a realistic way to make dovetails for a quick box or drawer. I always take a bit more time and care on finer projects.

Hope you enjoy!


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## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Outstanding!!!


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## cdbridge39 (May 24, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Awesome, Dovetail King !!!


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## Islandguy (Dec 31, 2008)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Paul,
I like your idea of turning your coping saw blade forward…makes complete sense will have to try that!

Jim


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Nice, I have to try this one day to see how I do. I'm sure I wont get the same results.

Question, I see you like to cut your tails first, do you ever cut two tail boards at the same time, clamped together?

Thanks for posting!


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Thanks, everyone.

Really enjoyed this.I do cut my tails first and I never gang them up because, though marginally faster, they never quite seem to seat right somehow.I have method that guarantees all the dovetails can be inter-fitted to any of the tail recesses though. If I have to make twenty drawers I can use this system and cut the dovetails in short order with perfectly pristine results every time.


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


good work, i would like the see the rest of the project, the top and bottom


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Amazingly quick and effective not sure I have enough time to become this good. LOL very well done and a pleasure to watch.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Yep, amaziingly quick, and the way you keep track of the parts is slick (I'd have to mark everything with "top, out, left, right", etc). But I'd still like to see a closeup of those joints. I can't help but see tearout, not-quite-straight coping saw cuts and other schmutz in there. If they look good enough for kitchen drawers, I will cheerfully admit it. In any case, they fit better than mine, no matter how long I take.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


You can see the box on my blog at www.paulsellers.com .Please remember that this is presented as a rough cut and not suited for a museum piece. If I make a tool tote or a beehive then its suited to the task and economical in time. I made pieces for the White House three years ago and I would never have made the dovetails this way. I am simply showing practical applications that beat machines hands down in terms of following the Real Woodworking Campaign. I have three others I will be posting as I have time. The most perfected will be last. here is an example of a hounds tooth dovetail but I'm not certain I can get it in the 10 min max on YouTube yet


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## Rembo (Apr 28, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


The super! Having looked at video, too it wanted to try.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


That's what I want for you and everyone. Not perfected pristine dovetails but well-fitting ones. Climb over the excuses and the opinions and the assumptions and the expectations of others and say to yourself "Let me at it!"


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


okay I got it …..............maybee ….LOL
but if you are making 32 drawers it deffently can add something to do it this way 
when doing the back part of the drawers 
thank´s Poul

Dennis


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Thanks for this video. I enjoy making practical items, so this gave me a few shortcuts I had not thought of before.

A few questions. Can I see a shot of your vise from the other side? do you know of a good maker of coping saw these days? I understand if you don't want to endorse anyone on the second question.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Okay, I've looked at the enlarged picture on your blog, and it's pretty good. There's a little gap at the center pin on the near corner, and at the left corner, where the contrast between the box and the background is high, you can see that they seat just a little shallow, but for an 8-minute utility grade piece, it looks better than utility grade.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Most of us do worse with using marking guage, bevel guage, and square.

I cant wait to try this for a little tool box, I need one for my brace auger bits. I just dont know if I can get my coping saw to do that, I will probably use a marking guage for the base line until I figure it out.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Will post pics of the finished box shortly. So you can all pick more holes in my 8 minute dovetails and the close ups will be very close up.
Of course, as I said somewhere earlier, my goal was to challenge the status quo, which I did and did it successfully. It's not the definitive way and I use this method for beehives, rougher tool boxes for outdoors and so on. I posted a picture above of the work I do normally. Funny that now one commented on that.

best for now


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Will post pictures of my vise later. Eclipse, an English maker, has always made the best coping saws and they take the USA made blades just the same. They are still made but you may need t get one online. They are worth getting because of the truly sprung steel frame. Lots of strength and memory in the steel.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Paul, in watching the video, the dovetails will not be perfect BUT as you point out, they are fast. When I do my dovetails, I take a lot longer marking them and usually chisel the waste out instead of the coping saw.

For production work for non mass produced furniture, hand dovetails are a viable method.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul.

The hounds tooth DTs are very impressive.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I've never had any luck ganging pieces either.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I haven't. But the set up at the vise takes longer, you might lose the time you save there. I have a few utility boxes I need to make soon…I will bring the stopwatch out and figure it out


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I guarantee if we took a survey of fellow members we would find that 98% of them have never mass manufactured a dovetail for any mass-manufacturing situation and that's my point. Professionals are machinist only in general these days. It's impractical to compete with the big boys by hand, but my customers would no more shop in IKEA or Walmart than fly to the moon. I don't mind that. In fact I quite like the fact that neither of these giants can compete with me!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Quality or Quantity. People compete at very different ends of the spectrum.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Here is the picture of my vise. It's an old Woden; not made any more. Quick release with a jaw like a pit bull. Opens to 13" in one pull and closes the same speed of lightening. I have an old Record too, before Record sold out to India. That's in the US. Best vises of all are these two 80-year old vises.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Sorry, forgot image:


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


VERY nice.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


My Jorgensen looks like a copy of your Woden. Your guide rods look more substantial. My quick release is painted; I like yours much better.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Paul, the hounds tooth Dovetails looks amazing of course. Absolutely nothing to scrutinize there.

RG your right, fiddling with the two boards to gang them together would slow you dow. Also it would probably make coping the base line harder.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Paul, you are such a breath of fresh air.  Thanks for keeping it real.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I don't think all of my critiquers (is that a word?) feel the same way, but thanks for your compliment.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I agree with Brit. I really appreciate the wisdom you share with us. It really helps us cut through a lot of noise out there.

I hope you will one day post a blog about your sharpening method.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Then they just don't get what you're demonstrating Paul. In the hotel where I'm staying in Denmark, there is a wonderful old oak dresser probably built in the 18th century. I couldn't resist opening the drawers and checking the joinery. The dovetails are uneven, roughly cut and nowhere near the quality of the houndstooth set you posted above. The fact is though, they were seen as perfectly functional then and they still are today and you can't argue with that really can you? As you so expertly show, there are times when a joint just has to be functional and not necessarily look pretty.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I'll do that soon.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Actually, today I wouldn't be able to get away with the dovetails of 150 years ago. They are often eyeballed and uneven. The one i did in the video would have been high dollar back then. That's because those guys had to hustle. Twelve sets of drawers a day was fairly standard for furniture/cabinet maker.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I have a piece of furniture, I'm not sure where it was made, it's not an antique, but it's my favorite piece. It looks to have hand cut dovetails and hand planed beveled panels. The dove tail gaps are puttied over and all the drawer parts are stained the same color. If I wasn't into woodworking no one would have ever noticed that, certainly not my wife. The point is that it's a strong joint. Most of the antique furniture I have looked at are the same.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Let the critics stay critics. This taught me something. I work by hand and have for a few years (no where near you but I have not been alive that long), mostly this was a cost thing. It's cheaper to work this way than by any other. But the rhythm of work is what kept me working by hand more than anything else.

When I work this way I enjoy the experience and the final product is usually better. Seeing my joints get faster and tighter means I am growing, not just my list of tools.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I can say this about dovetails - most of the dovetails that I do for myself I do not glue. There is no reason to unless I get them too tight and they split the side. For the dovetails that I do for others, two drops of glue are fine, just so they don't work loose over time.

As long as you take a few minutes longer to fit them together and adjust, you will be amazed at how things come together.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I must say I prefer to use glue and I have always glued my joints. I cannot recall ever using them unglued. A glued joint comes loose at about 150 years when using animal hide glue and it can be reglued for another 150. Not sure about PVA, but looks like something around the same. In 47 years using PVA none of my long grain to long rain joints have ever failed. That means with a true joint such as dovetails and mortise and tenons will last indefinitely.

That said. I have come across two dovetail joints in my lifetime where no glue was used. People have a distorted view of glue and glued joints. For 5,000 years glue has been used on joints.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I would like to start messing around with the animal glues. Any advice on where to start?

The only joints I don't glue are ones I want to move, even then there is usually a nail or something somewhere.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Animal hide glues are quite readily available and can be worked at different strengths. Animal hide glue has a unique property in that it is reversible and can generally be split. That's why we use it on violins and such because a violin must be repairable mostly from the inside. To remove the front and back plates from the bouts is simply a question of using an old-fashioned super-thin butter knife on the glue line and tapping the knife with a small hammer or the heel of your hand. The plates that might have been held there for a hundred years will separate right along the glue line, unlike all other glues, and give a clean separation. It is available in various strengths, but the stronger AHGs have less open time so you must work it efficiently to get the best adhesion. 
Granular hide glue is about the strongest I have found through the years. It's simply a question of adding water and heating in a double burner to dissolve the granules into gooey glue. You test consistency by drizzling from a stick or applicator brush.
AHG is also available in pearl variety and is used the same way as granular but gives a somewhat longer open time for movement of parts, which you need for some projects and especially traditional veneer work. 
We should never underestimate the value of AHG. It's a wonderful adhesive and not only for repair and restoration work. Stinks a bit though, but I love it!
I have bought mine from Lee Valley Veritas.


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## redbaronstoys (Jun 30, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I've got to get a bench vice and try these. They look like fun.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Do it! Practice a few times. Get the turn on the saw right, and you will never turn back.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Beautiful dovetail box.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Thanks! Simple, efficient and very Real Woodworking for everyone.

Best for now,

Paul


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Hi Paul,

One more question. It looks like you use a Tenon saw to cut your dovetails.

Am I being sold extra stuff I dont need if I'm being sold a 12tpi Dovetail saw and then a 14tpi Rip Carcass saw?

Thanks!


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Hello Mauricio,

Fact is that carcass saws are little more than handy on occasions. We use terms like'carcass saw' now when we just called it a tenon saw (back saw US). I don't buy dovetail saws, just shorter tenon saws. 14-PPI is ideal, finer are harder to sharpen. Only one saw is needed. A 14-16-PPI saw cuts both with and cross grain - no need for both. AS you can in the video I never change saws. A 10" tenon saw will cut all dovetails, 90% of tenons, all shoulders of tenons and all crosscuts. Only on larger tenons, say above 4" wide and more than 2" deep would you need a carcass saw. Most people don;t work in those realms. Dining table tenons are never over 4" wide and rarely longer than 1 1/2". When you get onto joinery for entryway doors and such you may need a carcass saw, but on that size it's quicker to split the tenons and face them with a rebate plane. Much faster than tenon saws no matter the size. Most of my tenon sawing is done with two back saws. A 12" 12-points per inch tenon saw and 10" 14-points per inch for smaller work including dovetails and smaller tenons.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul!


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## Eugene (Apr 26, 2008)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Awsome speed and technique. I'm working on being that good. Until then I will keep trying.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Keep the saw teeth pointing away from you. Not towards you as people generally think. Fret saws are toward you because you use this on a platform and pull down as you see the work from the top as you do with a mechanical or treadle scroll saw. That was never the case with coping saws, which derive their name from and were used to cope shapes for internal corners of moulding and such. Also, make the turns only on the forward thrust cut, so with each thrust forward make a slight turn.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I love that you cut the dovetails without the use of a chisel whatsoever. That's amazing. I'm trying to make some boxes for presents and I've gotten decent at cutting them by hand, but I'm always using a chisel to clean everything up. That's the most time consuming part to me. I'd rather cut them all by saw and they perfect the first time. I'll keep practicing! haha


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


Remember! Practice makes permanent.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *four corners and planed in 10 minutes (1 of 4)*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> ...


I love watching your videos. You present in a very simple, clear manner and bring "woodworking to the masses." I'm slowly (painfully slowly) improving on my dovetails, still takes me forever to cut them and more often than not, they don't fit…as you said though "practice makes permanent"


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

*roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*

Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


nearly the way I learned it in primeryschool  thanks

I noticed you lubricated the sole midway ~ what do you use 
and the can with ? is what …. looked like a very fast and easy way of doing it

take care
Dennis


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.












I use a rag neatly rolled up so that it sticks above a 4 ounce baked bean or tomato can by 12 mm. It must be as tight in the can as possible. I then charge it with 3-1 machine oil. I sue this on the sides of all of my saws and other metal tools too.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


How do you prevent the tear out when planing the ends? I heard you say something about tear out in the video but I couldn't really make out what you said. Is it the angle in which you are using the plane that prevents the tear out?

Great video. Thanks for posting


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Yes. See the angle of presentation right at the beginning. This is a slicing action. The shallower the angle the less tearout. There is never any tearout using this method. As an apprentice we made all window sill returns this way. The window bottoms (boards) came with a bullnose but because all sill sizes differed, they had to be done by hand. Very fast, as fast as a router when you have skill. Sales reps tried to sell us routers back then but they were too slow and caused tearout too frequently. Hard to believe, eh! We also dis returns on stair nosings too. It works. I cut my teeth on this type ofwork.


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## AttainableApex (Aug 24, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


why do you use 3in1 oil instead of wax. i think pretty much everyone uses wax


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Most craftsmen used oil.It's fast and the system with the ragtin works only with oil. Wax is thicker and has it's uses, but as I said, my tools never rust and I use the ragtin all the time because it sits on my bench. I simply drag the plane across the cloth and get on with life. Wax and all that is very slow by comparison. Imagine, I'm planing, the sole sticks, I whip around, wipe the sole by dragging the sole across the tin perched on my benchtop, and get on with the job. Quick, efficient, no playing around. Job done!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


thank´s Poul 
now you made me hungry again even though I don´t deal with beans or tomato´s 
other than grow them ….. LOL

one more question to your oilrag …. we all know that a oily rag can self ignit and burn 
does you put it in a safe place when you shot down for the day or do you have another can 
that fits right over it as lid 

Dennis


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Never heard of spontaneous combustion with three in-one-oil. Don't know if it's valid or not. Anyone? Better find out. I have done this for 45 years now.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


I sure don´t know either 
we just hear it all the times with other oil things including blo 
but with 45 years behind the test it seems to be pretty safe 

take care
Dennis


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Thanks for sharing more of your knowledge and wisdom Paul!

I think the combustion thing is only a problem with curing oils like BLO or Tung oil that produce heat while they cure. The 3-1 doesnt cure as far as I know.

My concern with the 3-1 oil would be it staining the wood or effecting your finish later but since you have been doing this for so long, it obviously is not an issue.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


No issues with the oil on the wood for any reason. You're right, in 45+ years working wood I never had any issues.

Best for now,

Paul


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


I can't put into words how grateful I am for your videos. I look forward to each one you post.

Just another reminder why I'm getting away from my power tools.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


There will be more as time allows and I am glad they seem to be making a difference. Although we must all make a living, we must also share what knowledge we have. As a craftsman, my personal quest now is to pass on all that I know.

Thanks for the kind comments.

Best regards,

Paul


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Another excellent video, Paul. I'm learning a lot from these short tutorials.

I liked the part where you said, "Still looking for your router bit." I do think the router would be faster if you had a bunch of lids and they were set up for a production run, but I for one would much rather prefer a roundover done by hand than one that had been machined. Looking forward to more videos.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Ninety-nine point nine, nine, nine percent of woodworkers will never mass make a bunch of lids, or drawers or boxes with dovetails or many other things for that matter. They will need a router to run moulding on the edges of stock such as base trim or the nosings on shelves. That's fine. I take issue when they, the catalog suppliers and manufacturers of machines and such, take simple aspects of woodworking and displace the sense of wellbeing you get from working with your hands creatively even if the machine does it better. My videos will continue to come for free to even out the disparity that has gone on for far too long so that those woodworkers looking for real woodworking can find it and believe that it work not just for me but them also. I have been in full time woodworking as a furniture maker for 47 years - that's 141,000 hours of woodworking. Over 120,000 hand cut woodworking joints, millions of shavings from planes, spokeshaves and scrapers.

Go to my blog at www.paulsellers.com for bags more free stuff from my daily work in my workshop to learn more.

Best to all.

Join me in the Real Woodworking Campaign (RWC) for more changes to come too.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Cool way to do roundovers.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Fast, smooth, easy, real!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Thanks for this Paul. I do my round overs the same way, you are right, pretty darn fast. I like the oilcan, I use wax, but the crazy speed that your job went might have sold me…where are my beans?

I really appreciate your attitude towards sharing what you know. Not everyone shares it, unfortunately.

I just signed your petition. Thanks for the blog, keep it coming. I have a ton to learn from guys like you. Great hope chest by the way.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Thanks RG,
The hope chest gets finished Friday all being well, then I start the shaker chest followed by the tool chest. Will be doing one of the dovetailed corners to video to show how to cut a corner for larger pieces.


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## RJS (Aug 10, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Thank you Paul! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It is greatly appreciated. Thanks to you and others posting videos on this site. It has greatly helped some of us who use this as the only resource to learn woodworking. Thank You!!!!


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## JasonD (Jul 26, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


Paul, just to echo what has already been said, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I ordered "Working Wood 1 & 2" a few weeks back and have followed your blog daily since then. In the short 2 years that I've worked wood, I've always used hand tools primarily, but even still, I can honestly say that you have changed me as a woodworker.

I love that you not only instill students with knowledge, but also confidence. Thanks again!


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


You and all are more than welcome. I have much more to share as time permits. I am getting ready for master classes with The Woodworking Shows on the 6-8 Jan in Baltimore, MA and the following weekend 13-15 in New England at Springfield MA. In February I will be at Somerset New Jersey Feb26-28 and then Fredericksburg VA March 2-4. SO if any of you are going to one of these I'd love to meet you all.

Best for now,

Pau


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *roundover for box lid (2 of 4)*
> 
> Here is the second part of a short series. In this one I round the edges of the lid with a hand plane.


The old can of beans trick. Who knew!!!


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

*Finishing with Shellac*

Hi all,

Here is part three, finishing with shellac. I just wanted to show a beautiful finish which is really easy to apply.

Hope you all enjoy.

Paul


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## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Finishing with Shellac*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> ...


Nice! What was the cut for the Shellac?


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Finishing with Shellac*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> ...


Paul, I can't tell you how many times in in the middle of a project and I'm thinking, "There has to be an easier way, I know I'm overcomplicating this". The information you are providing is exactly what I've been needing. I just caught your part 4 of 4 on your youtube channel, more great tips, Thanks!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Finishing with Shellac*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> ...


What are your thoughts on filling grain before using shellac? I figure if the cut is light enough you can skip that and leave the texture of the wood intact.


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## AttainableApex (Aug 24, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Finishing with Shellac*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> ...


ya grain filling takes time and a little pain but it comes out so good on mahogany, especially if the filler is black.
what brush are you using?


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Finishing with Shellac*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> ...


I start all my shellac with a 1 lb cut, but often end up thinning (cutting US) again cos I leave the lid off the jar. Bad habit of 40 years I suppose.

I only grain-fill on restoration work, not new. I like texture in species so whichever wood I work in can be identified by grain colour, configuration and texture, though I do use dyes and stains where I feel appropriate.

On larger areas I pad, on small projects I lay on with a brush. Here I am using what is called a 'hake' used by watercolourists in art. They are not too expensive from Hobby Lobby or Crafts etc type places. A 1" hake will cover a fairly large area without problems. The finish lies flat without brush texture and the advantage of brush-on is of course volume. Two coats usually does the job depending on the cut. I also use paint pads for larger areas. It goes on superfast with no brush or fillament marks, but this works well mainly with flat surfaces and not moulded stock.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

*Setting the Hinges*

Hi,

Here is part four. It is a bit longer than the other sections despite the fact that I have cut it down quite a bit. I hope it will prove a useful tutorial in setting hinges.

Enjoy,

Paul Sellers


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Setting the Hinges*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


Wow, simply amazing. I've seen a number of demonstrations online, but I'd have to say I like your method the best. Looking forward to getting your Working Wood series soon. Too bad I'm in the southern US, I'd love to make it to some of your workshops.


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## timjr (Aug 29, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Setting the Hinges*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


Wow, very nice! Looking forward to more videos. They don't all have to be so fast.  Just split it into more pieces, I suppose.


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