# Pretty good so far



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Rick, i use this as well, my opinion, best wax out there, the key is to use a very thin coat , let it dry a min or two, if you are buffing hard, use a little cold water , the heat from friction can cause any wax to soften, the cold water helps alot, also depending on the finish, if its an oil or solvent based and isnt fully cured the solvent that is still evaporating will cause the wax to be soft , i use this on my table saw , planer and all my tools as well, I think you will notice it will harden on down , i have always found it to dry very hard and fast, good stuff


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## RjGall (Jun 16, 2008)

Maybe you got a bunk batch (I can't see how that could be though ).
I've used it for years on alot of things , mainly on the metal surfaces on my tools, tablesaw jointer ect.
Its the best thing I've found so far for repeling finger prints ,friction, rust ect. I also use it for some of my projects . 
I think it all depends on how much is applyed! its better to put on thin coats , when using on my tools I'll put on three coats . On last coat take a moist rag with a dry rag and wipe it down it usually lasts about 3-4 months depending on usage.

When removing rust I like using these Sandflex blocks in Fine ,med & heavy grits , they last along time and do a great job removing rust and fine scratchs when I'm done the surface looks almost like new!! 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2007329/2007329.aspx?tab=information#information

Right On!!! CharlesNeil uses it also ….I must have been writing up my responce when Neil posted his , follow what he says He knows!


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## woodplay (Aug 11, 2009)

You guys might be right. I had to put the wax coats on a christmas present and I was only able to give the danish oil 2 days to dry. I wiped it down many many times over those 2 days to ensure there was no excess and to help the drying. I know it wasn't enough time and I suppose that didn't help the wax to perform as everyone says it does.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

rick, danish oil can take weeks to dry ,im not a fan , its blo not much more , and blo is @*&*^^ in my book, not putting you down here, you didnt know , what is happening in the market is alot of the blo based products are not blo, but raw linseed oil , ( cost too much to process) with japan drier, problem is , they just dont dry , they look great , because they wet the wood and give a sheen, but after a while they do dry and not much is left, what you have here is not wax, its wet oil, now you know, 
a coat of either Arm R seal or Waterlox would help them dry , they have good resins and good driers, not heavy metal ( lead), they been gone along time, when cured , they are also totally food safe , blo and mineral oil are not considered a finish in my book, ther was a time when blo , processed properly was half way decent, but those days are past , and some will argue , how the old timers used it, because it was the best , not the case at all, first of all it wasprocessed, so it was a different animal, and second it was the best they HAD, we have come along way since then, there are a couple out ther who do ok, i believe its suthernland Wales or something like thatthatis sold by garrett wade or lee valley , and the tried and true is the old formula i think, but they are still very slow to dry , and when done you still have a questionable durability finish, I have ARM r Seal on one of my floors and Waterlox on another , been there for years, works super , alot of my contractor friends use one or the other for hard wood floors… counter tops etc, either of these oil finishes will make you a super finish , without the problems..hope this helped


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## woodplay (Aug 11, 2009)

Thanks Charles. I'm now left thinking, I like the easy application of danish oil but if it's junk then what do I use now? Do I still use it but let it dry and put something over top like the Arm R Seal or perhaps Wipe on Poly? I also like the easy application of wipe on poly. or will the danish oil still completely dry out under the poly and still leave you with a dry and colorless looking piece in several years?
Thanks for being patient with me.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

rick poly and oil are not the best mix, i would let it dry, another day, then get some waterlox , or armr seal, and coat it let it stand for about 10 min, then wipe it dry , let it set over night , and see what you have … give it a coat of the wax, and it will be ok, if it dries out in a month or so , give it another coat, i know its a gift, and you want it right , so just let it dry for now , a warm area will help alot, then a wipe doen with some naptha or mineral spirits ( prefer naptha , its also charcole lighter), will help to pull the excess off, and dry the remaining, then give it one of the other oils, you will be fine… if you or any of you have questions and i can help feel free, my email [email protected] charlesneilwoodworking.com


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

rick , typing too fast , i gave you two options , the best will be a good wet wipe down with the naptha and then a coat of of either water lox or arm r seal, waterlox has more amber tone to it , so you make the choice, then give it 30 min to dry, then a good wet coat of either oil , let it dry over night , give it a good rub down with a piece of brown paper bag, ( = 4000 grit), and give it a wax, use the bag to buff the wax out .. Merry Christmas ..


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