# Best method to make dogholes?



## deadherring (Nov 25, 2013)

Hi,

What's the best method to make dogholes in a new workbench? The bench is 2×4's turned on end, so I dont think my plunge router will plunge deep enough to get through it.

If I use a hand drill, do I need to get one of those jigs for hand drills to drill straight holes or is it not necessary?

Also, should I round over/chamfer the holes once I am done? What router bit is recommended? The hole sizes will be 3/4".

Thanks,

DH


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

I just used a hand drill. No jigs used or anything. Just eyeballed it. And I used a chamfer bit for my router with a bearing. Any would work since you're only chamfering a small amount. Maybe 3/16" down.


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## Sparks8286 (Apr 28, 2014)

a hand drill with a forstner bit.


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

If you can get to a DP you can make yourself some drill blocks, I glued pine sections together 1 1/2 and 2" high then drilled into them while clamped to the DP table. I bored a series of holes in a spiral pattern to increase the number of bit diameter options. Even though it's pine they seem to be lasting.


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## handymensch (Mar 13, 2015)

3/4" Forstner bit. Easy. To avoid tearout on the underside, only drill half-way through the top, then take a smaller drill bit and drill through the pilot hole left by the Forstner bit. Then flip the bench over (I know, easier said than done) and line up your Forstner bit with the pilot hole. Done.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

When I did my bench, I used the plunge router to start the holes. The I finished them w/ an auger bit. I used a chamfer bit w/ a bearing to chamfer the holes.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I've heard people talking about dog holes needing to be accurate, but I honestly can't figure out why. I can't think of anything that a dog hole is used for that really matters if it's 1 degree off. But because people talk about making them accurate I used the standard hand tool method to drill accurate holes with a brace and bit and put two try squares at 90 degrees to each other to use to sight along the bit to make sure I was going in square. You could do the same thing with an auger bit and a power hand drill just stop quickly while you can adjust and go from there. I haven't measured, but I'm sure I'm less than 1 degree off on each hole.

Found the video that shows the method I was talking about:


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

I used a brace with an auger bit. Here a good trick by Richard Maguire for drilling square.


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## deadherring (Nov 25, 2013)

Thanks all for the advice. Sounds like it's easier than I think. Just a quick follow up: can I drill all holes all the way thru if I want to use any hole for a doghole or a holdfast or do the dogholes have to not be all the way thru in order to stay in place? If it matters the dogholes I bought are from lee valley.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Dog holes need to to be all the way through otherwise they fill w/ sawdust and you need to be able to push the dog up from the underside and they double as holdfast holes that way too. I thought Lee Valley only sold dog holes on April 1st.


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

I would not consider having blind holes in the benchtop. As bondo says, it'll just fill with chips and dust and it'll be awful trying to get things out. The Veritas dogs have a metal spring along the side to keep them in place, even in oversized holes.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I used a spade bit. Probably should have started the hole with a Forstner. But since I knew I was going to flatten the top anyway, the tear out was removed.

I used a couple squares to keep me lined up, but in retrospect, I would make some kind of guide.

Some dogs like LV's "pups" don't need through holes, but you'll have to blow them out once in a while.

I would do through holes because then you can use a bench hook.


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## benchbuilder (Sep 10, 2011)

When you drill your dog holes, clamp a 2×6 to the bottom side of the bench where the dog holes pass through. Put clamps on from the outside edge of the top and along the length of the 2×6 to keep it tight to the bottom of the top, this will help or even prevent tear out on the bottom side of the dog holes as you drill through the bench top and into the 2×6.. i made a drill jig of 2×4 with a 3/4" bronze bushing in it andclamped to the top as i drilled. This also helps keep the holes striaght.


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## deadherring (Nov 25, 2013)

I ended up using a spade bit and a drill bit extender to get all the way through. It worked well, but I wish I would have seen benchbuilders advice beforehand since I got some bad blow out on the underside. But, no one will ever see it so its ok.


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## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

> I used a brace with an auger bit. Here s a good trick by Richard Maguire for drilling square.
> 
> - Mykos


Excellent and simple technique for getting those holes straight. So much better than the jigs I have seen. Most of what I have seen is flimsy and could not possible work as well as this.

Thanks for posting.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

I suggest using a drill guide and a straight edge.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I just made two marks where each would go. In from the edge so far, and spaced so far. Where the two lines cross, I start a drill bit









A size 3/4/#12. Brace to power it through









Seems to go right through…


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

If you're ok with 1/2" instead of 3/4" holes and don't mine a little tear out on the back side, this could be an option if you're in a hurry.


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## mramseyISU (Mar 3, 2014)

If you want to get really picky about it Lee Valley sells a kit for doing this.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=72602&cat=51&ap=1


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Forstner bit in a portable drill for me. Held a scrap length of 2×4 underneath w/ F clamp to prevent blow out on the underside. Straight is as straight does, hold downs work fine, Veritas brass dogs work fine.


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