# Should I buy the Stanley Sweetheart 750 chisel set?



## jtm

He folks,

I currently have the $5 set of chisels from Harbor Freight.

They work okay, but I'd really like a fairly decent set.

Not $300 decent, but not the $20 Kobalt set at Lowes either.

Right now, the standard 4 chisel Stanley Sweetheart set is on sale at Amazon for $85 with free shipping. (you need to go to checkout to see the discount). Seems like a good deal considering everyone else sells these for $130.

Is this better than the Narex or Woodriver set?

Also, I assume this is a decent step up from the Harbor Freight chisels, correct?

Keep in mind that I'm not a sharpening expert, nor do I have hundreds of dollars worth of waterstones.


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## Loren

*Is this better than the Narex or Woodriver set?*

Probably.


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## jtm

Thanks Loren.

I know that the Narex, Woodriver, England Marples, and Stanley Sweethearts all get lumped into the "decent mid-grade" category.

My question is whether or not the Sweethearts are a tier higher than the others.


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## CaptainKlutz

Chisels are a very personal thing. Lots of opinions and even a magazine test if want to believe the data.
http://www.startwoodworking.com/sites/startwoodworking.com/files/tool-test-bench-chisels.pdf

Like you I have the same question on the Stanley 750's, and wished they were in the magazine test.
I started buying 1-2 chisels in the sizes I always use and gathered my own opinion.
My issue with most all the "average" chisels is edge retention (as I dislike having to stop work to sharpen):
- The newer Irwin Marples get wicked sharp, but fracture the edge if you don't stop to sharpen as it gets dull. Once it breaks, it's back to 80 grit to reshape the edge. They dull quickly, but will still cut even with fractured edges. They drove me crazy, and don't get used anymore in my shop.
- Bought a Narex to test it out. Nice chisel. Edge retention is only average.
- Have both an old garage sale Stanley 750 and new 750. Edge retention on the old chisel is better than the new one, the new 750 durability is only a slight bit better than Narex.
- Have some 40yr old Greenlee's (USA), and Dunlap (Germany) that are good, with edge retention equal to the older Stanley 750.
- I took my (2) 750's to LN hand tool event for a direct comparison with some very hard maple that was killing my chisel edges quickly. I like the LN in all aspects, except edge retention. My old chisel 750 held an edge longer, even when sharpened by LN staff and tested side by side with an expert. Needless to say, I didn't take home a set.
- Recently bought a set of 4 Foot Print (Sheffield steel, wood handled) chisels at a local store on sale for $50. These have the best edge retention I have seen in an "average" standard bevel edge chisel to date. Bought them for a set of beaters in portable tool box, and was surprised on the edge durability. They are my regular use shop chisels now.
- If you don't need to cut narrow side bevel for dovetails, I also really like the Grizzly Japanese chisels. Have only sharpened the test pair I bought than a few times, but so-far the edges are proving just as durable than my Foot Print chisels.

As with all chisel opinions, YMMV.


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## ChefHDAN

Captain, thanks for a great bit of info, I just peeked and saw some pretty wide price variences in the Footprint chisels, can you specify which series you're impressed with, I just saw a ridiculous deal for a 6 piece set and want to be sure the 88 series is a good buy


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## LJD4662

I have the new sweetheart 750's. I would say they are worth the money. The edge retention is average. What really surprised me is how light weight they are.


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## mramseyISU

I've had my eye on a set of pfiel chisels from woodcraft for a while now. They might be a little more than you want to pay but I've been using some of their other tools and have been impressed with them. If you look at that article posted above they ranked second best overall.


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## bbrown

The Marples Blue Chip chisels are an excllent value for good quality chisels. Buy a set for the best price. I've used these exclusivley for years and even got a nod of approval once from Mario Rodriquez who ought to know.

I'm assuming that the quality has not changed significantly in the past few years.


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## waho6o9

http://festoolownersgroup.com/classifieds/solliden-sweden-chisels-32950/










HTH


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## Buckethead

I suggest a look at some old 750s. Sometimes pricey, but sometimes you get them for a song.

I picked some up by happy accident recently. (Mine are actually 720s which are longer) and they hold the edge longer than the new 750 sweethearts I have. I'm thinking about collecting a full set of 720s and/or 750s then selling my sweethearts. It's also easier (to me) to put the old blades on a piece of sandpaper or stone. I'm way to gentle on my new chisels.


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## vbraddy17

I would personally suggest the Narex chisels. I can't imagine any set outside high end chisels would be significantly better. i sold a set of pfeil a couple weeks ago and am about to sell some crown chisels because I simply like the Narex better. I'm going to eventually get some lie nieslens or Veritas. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.


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## JayT

Here's my first question. Do you need a full set?

If not, you might be ahead to purchase a top quality chisel or two in the sizes you use most and add other sizes as they are needed. I can definitely recommend Two Cherries and there are others as good, but I haven't tried them to make a recommendation.

If you decide you really want/need all four sizes, that price on the new 750's is pretty decent and there are a couple LJ members I know of that like them.


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## Loren

I've seen it written that sometimes you need to get back 1/8" or more
into the chisel to get to the good steel. I have some Sorby's
that I think may have this issue. I've tolerated their uninspired
edge holding because they are heavy firmer chisels used for 
chopping, not paring.

So, if you think a chisel set should be better than it is turning
out to be, consider grinding one back to see if edge holding
improves.


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## ColonelTravis

$85 for those 750s is a good deal. Like Captain said, edge retention is what's going to sell chisels (or drive you nuts.) Not everyone gets to test all sorts of brands out personally, including me, so I just go by what the expert consensus seems to be. Had a bunch of amazon gift certificates and ordered a set of three Narex mortise chisels. No clue how they'll hold up but I thought they'd be worth a try.

Captain - Interesting you said the L-N's didn't impress you in holding an edge. Not disagreeing with that viewpoint, I've never used them. But I wouldn't have given that A2 a second thought.

Loren - thanks for that tidbit.


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## JohnChung

I would keep the money to buy stones first. No point to buy good steel when the edge cannot be kept sharp. If you are cash strap go with scary sharp method first. It would not provide the best edge as the paper
is easily torn and hard to keep flat with glue itself.

I went with pretty decent gear first then invested on stones. After reflecting on it. Go with stones first as 
standard carbon steel as pretty good for a *day* except with hard wood. I mixed by gear with higher end stuff
with cheaper steel from China.

Marples chisels are pretty decent. Can last depending on the working wood. If hard wood then each day requires sharpening on any chisel grades.


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## CaptainKlutz

I also heartily agree with others recommending you master a sharpening method before you buy more/better chisels. You need to become very proficient with a sharpening method of your choice (making your HF chisels capable of shaving); before you will notice much difference in the cutting performance in various chisels.

Scary sharp works well for those starting out, and is relatively easy to master. 
I've slowly started switching to water stones and trying them out didn't cost me hundreds of dollars. While it is not the best stone available, a cheap (<$40) starter stone is the King 1000/6000 combo. After setting the course angle with 100-220 grit paper (or a grinder), it works pretty well. The 6K will create a reasonable polished edge on your chisels. I am sure the "stone must be perfectly flat" purists will ban me for suggesting this, but you can also get a medium sized (2X3) coarse diamond plate to use for stone flattening for <$35 as well and have a fairly low cost beginners water stone setup. You can always add to your collection as I did; I recently added a 10K stone to get my 25 degree paring chisels and plane blades a wee bit sharper.

FWIW - Here is a pic of one of the beech handled foot print chisels that work ok for me. There isn't any PN, or many identifying marks.










Don't get me wrong when I say they are good, they are still only an "average" chisel. The Sheffield steel was the key reason I bought them. They needed typical tuning of any cheap cutting tool; new 30 degree edge, flatten and polish backs, and the oval handles were unfinished hardwood that needed finish sanding plus a few coats of BLO. After getting them tuned, they work well. I am sure if I could afford some high end Japanese chisels or the Veritas PM11 chisels, I might be saying the Foot Print are so-so? 

Best of luck.


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## Buckethead

I'll add to what the Cap'n just said. A strop and honing compound took me right over the top for sharpening. I have been using diamond stones and they were certainly making edges usable, but learned that all that extra effort trying to refine the edge was for naught.

A few swipes on the strop is an amazingly simple, effective and inexpensive way to go from sharp to seriously sharp.

The difference is easily quantified like this: before it took pressure to cut a couple arm hairs. Now, after honing, I just run the blade across, just like a razor. No gouging pressure at all. It is most noticeable on my plane irons in the decreased amount of tear out.

Tis a thing of joy!


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## JohnChung

Ah sharpening… The joys and pains….. I am in the midst of straightening a 2 by 4 , 16 feet long. Hardwood. Similar to maple. I will need to visit the sharpening station often as I do not have enough blades at the right angle…...................................


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## RichardHillius

I really like socket chisels and for new you don't have a lot of options to Stanley's in that price range. I don't own the new 750's but I do have a number of vintage ones that I love after I got them into shape. The people I have talked to who do own the new Stanley's generally seem to like them after they get the backs flat and assuming they are not OCD about flatness along the entire back of the chisel. My Lie-Nielsen, Veritas, and Hock plane irons come dead flat from the factory and I have never needed more than a fine diamond stone followed by 8000 grit ceramic stones to get them ready for action. I have known people who bought the 750's who have spent some time flattening the backs to get them in good condition but I also think they might have gone a bit overboard to. You only need the tip flat across the length of the blade and if there is a SLIGHT hollow further in the back I wouldn't bother removing it as it won't affect your use of the tool. I have a fair number of antique chisels and I think only one or two of them are truly flat over the entire back and the rest work just fine. You don't want the chisel back to rock when you place it flat on a piece of wood but a slight hollow won't be enough to throw off your work either as long as the tip is flat.

I guess what I am saying is the advantage of the premium new chisels is time to setup is much lower and maybe a bit better edge retention. If you have some patience the 750's seem to be good chisels and I love the light weight of them and socket design. Edge retention probably isn't as good as some of the better brands but all in all the difference probably isn't that big a deal either and is probably better than most vintage ones.


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## Redoak49

The Stanley set is pretty good but I really like my Irwin Marples Blue Chip. I use them for everyday tasks in the workshop. I do have a set of much better ones but only use them on special stuff.

As others have said, you need to get something to do the sharpening with and to become good at it. There are a number of different methods with different prices. The bottom line is that if you can not keep the chisels sharp it does not matter which chisels that you purchase. It is a package deal with new chisels and the way to sharpen them.

Good Luck


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## BobSwanson

Amazon currently has the Stanley Sweetheart 750 4 piece set for $72.87 ($82.87 less $10 off $50 with Stanley holiday promotion). I'm seriously considering buying a set for my son who is getting started in hand woodworking.

Thanks!
Bob


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## BubbaIBA

Amazing answers. If I can read English, sometimes that is questionable, the Op asked two questions with kinda a third and made a couple of statements.

The statements were: He would like a decent set of chisels and he was not a sharpening expert. The "kinda" question was that the four chisel set at $85 USD seemed like a good deal. The questions were: Are the Stanley's better than Narex or Woodriver and would the 750's be a decent step up from the Harbor Freight chisels he is now using.

I would answer the "kinda" question with a yes, with free shipping $85 USD for the four chisels is pretty good. It's less than $22 USD a chisel for chisels that are light, with good balance, OK iron and almost indestructible Hornbean handles. I use mine almost every day.

As for being better than Narex or Woodriver, that gets more subjective. I doubt there is much difference in the iron all have some form of chrome steel and most modern steels are pretty good. I do not like the size or shape of the beech handles on the Narex but that is personal preference. Woodriver has stepped up the quality of their tools but I also expect the Stanley's are slightly better if for no other reason than Hornbean vs. Bubinga. While lots of chisels have Bubinga handles and Bubinga is very attractive it isn't one of the better woods for handles, Hornbean is.

Bottom line for the three chisel sets mentioned: the SH 750's are about $22 USD each, the Narex are about $12 USD each, and the Woodriver are about $15 USD. In use I doubt you could tell the difference between any of them other than the feel in hand, the balance of the chisel as you pare and chop.

As far as a step up from the Harbor Freight chisels, I can't answer because I've never used a Harbor Freight Chisel but I have used other Harbor Freight tool shaped objects and found them almost worthless.

As always with everything wood, YMMV.

ken


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## Redoak49

There are some very good answers here. The most critical is the sharpening issue. The idea to practice on the HF chisels was a great one. Sharpening is a skill and takes time to master.

How does a new wood worker get the right stuff to sharpen the chisels. Many of these new wood workers are very limited in funds. So what is the lowest cost way for a new wood worker to be able to sharpen the chisels. The scary sharp method is probably the best and cheapest and still provide excellent results. Exactly what does a newbie need to do the scary sharp method. A plate of 1/4" glass, some abrasives and maybe a sharpening guide. What type of abrasives and where can they get them. Lee Valley has the supplies and also maybe some fine silicon carbide paper for getting bad nicks out.

I know the answers to these questions but a new wood worker may not know.


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## JohnChung

If funds were limited. I would buy a good set of sharpening stones and then tools. I used the scary sharp method it was not great. The sandpaper did not last long and did not provide great results.


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## BigMig

I agree with Jay T - look at your upcoming project and buy the one or two that you'll need for that project. Live and work with them and then decide if you continue with that tool line, etc.

I bought a big set of very well used 2 Cherries chisels on Ebay - on a super bargain…but I don't even use all the sizes.

Go with a couple of high quality chisels and you won't be disappointed.

Happy hunting!


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## JohnChung

If funds were limited. I would buy a good set of sharpening stones and then tools. I used the scary sharp method it was not great. The sandpaper did not last long and did not provide great results.


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## BobSwanson

John, what sharpening stones would you recommend for someone getting started?

Thanks!
Bob



> If funds were limited. I would buy a good set of sharpening stones and then tools. I used the scary sharp method it was not great. The sandpaper did not last long and did not provide great results.
> 
> - JohnChung


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## BubbaIBA

> John, what sharpening stones would you recommend for someone getting started?
> 
> Thanks!
> Bob
> 
> If funds were limited. I would buy a good set of sharpening stones and then tools. I used the scary sharp method it was not great. The sandpaper did not last long and did not provide great results.
> 
> - JohnChung
> 
> - BobSwanson


This should get interesting. For almost every answer there is a range of responses that range between "Yes but" to " You dumb goof you haven't a clue" with only an occasional "Hear, Hear". There are too many variables and too many folks who haven't tested a wide range of stones on a wide range of iron but have strong opinions anyway. Where's the popcorn.


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## JohnChung

I would say the shapton series. The Pro stones.

Check out this site:
http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/2011/08/side-by-side-comparison-shapton-stones_12.html

As BubbaIBA mentioned there are so many variables. If the edge was okay you would not need to buy the lower grits like 120 or 240. Not worth it. To maintain the edge just get 2000,5000 and 8000 with a diamond stone for lapping down the stone when it is worn down. I generally use this set of stones for sharpening.

The reason I mentioned about stones is more important is that the edge has to be sharp. Expensive steel or chisels are worthless without a good edge. One can get away with lower quality steel if the edge was sharp BUT one has to visit the sharpening station more often.

Here is a VERY good web-site on sharpening:
http://inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/index.html

You do not need to GET all the equipment but just some basic stuff depending on your need. 
I bought my stones from Stu:
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/
Just email him if there are questions.

I generally do free hand sharpening with water stones. Found them good enough for anything I throw at it. From a damaged cleaver to chisels and handplane blades. Kitchen knives too. I don't use diamond stone to sharpen as it is to my knowledge that the binding between the diamond and plate will wear down quickly with steel. While water stones always renew the sharpening surface. I heard DMT works well for diamond stones. Can't say.


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## planeBill

Yes, Stuart Tierney is very knowledgable about everything he sells and can help you by what you need and nothing else. However, for the best prices go to chef knives to go, great prices and a big selection. I would go with a beston 800 and a beston 1200 and a suherio rika 5000. That would get you going for not much money, assuming you want to try waterstones. I wouldn't be without a Rika. I resisted using waterstones for a long time and now I really don't know why, I love them.
The Stanley SW's are pretty sweet chisels. I like mine and Ive used them a lot and for the price you said Amazon has them for, Id buy them. The backs do need some flattening on most of them but Stu has a stone for that, Sigma Power 400, mean, steel hungry stone. I love that one too.


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## daddywoofdawg

as a noob when it comes to chisels.the pic above,is that type made to "hand chisel" "hold and push" or can you tap with a mallet?I have a new set Irwin Marple but don't have any mileage on them yet.


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## Tim457

There are indeed lots of sharpening methods and I think most people now have realized the type of stone doesn't matter nearly as much as just picking one method and sticking with it long enough to get good at it.

I went with the ez-lap course, fine, and super-fine diamond stones that Paul Seller's uses. At just over $100 for the set, those three stones plus a strop are about as cheap as you can get started. He says they last him 5 years or more of daily use plus use for the classes he teaches, so for an average woodworker he said they would essentially last forever.

Again though any method will work. Waterstones, oilstones, sandpaper, diamond, etc. Scary sharp with sandpaper is the cheapest to get started, but is more expensive in the long run.


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## BobSwanson

Where can the set of 3 be purchased at just a little over $100?

Thanks!
Bob



> I went with the ez-lap course, fine, and super-fine diamond stones that Paul Seller s uses. At just over $100 for the set, those three stones plus a strop are about as cheap as you can get started.
> 
> - Tim


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## Tim457

Sorry I meant to go check the current prices before posting that. It looks like they are closer to $150 now on Amazon and I think that's still the best place to get them. You can always use http://camelcamelcamel.com or another Amazon price tracker to see if you can get it at their lowest price.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

> as a noob when it comes to chisels.the pic above,is that type made to "hand chisel" "hold and push" or can you tap with a mallet?I have a new set Irwin Marple but don t have any mileage on them yet.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


Sorry, woofdawg, that I don't know the pic you're referring to, but I can answer for Stanley SW re-issues: They can be whacked with a mallet, most certainly. All socket chisels can. Hold and Push is a paring action, a method, vs. a limit to what can be done with a chisel physically. I honestly wouldn't consider buying any kind of chisel that couldn't hold up to mallet strikes.

Hope this helps.


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## daddywoofdawg

yes smitty it does,so the metal ring on the end handle on some is just a feature.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ah, that ring you've seen at end of handles. Now I know what you're referring to.

The 4-piece Bailey set comes that way, two cherries and others, too. The ring is supposed to convey reaistance to splitting. Doesn't mean lack of such a band means the chisels can't be mallet struck. Avoid hammers, mallets fine.


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## JayT

You will usually find metal rings on tang style chisels, such as the Two Cherries and Bailey's Smitty mentioned.

My take on that is the handle would be more likely to split because you are essentially driving the wedge of the tang further into the handle on every strike. Having hoops and ferrules on the handles helps resist that splitting force.

For socket style chisels, the handle is still whole and the pressure of the socket compresses the wood fibers instead of driving them apart. I've seen socket chisels with hoops, but don't really feel they are essential if a good strong wood was used.


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## Matt59

"Wranglerstar" on youtube did a video recently fixing up the new 750s for his workbench build. They look like a nice set of chisels to me (I'm using some Craftsman metal capped ones at the moment, so take that with a grain of salt). Here's the link:






Skip to 7 minutes in for the unveiling. The next video in that series is dedicated to prepping the chisels for work.


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