# Best finish to make figured maple pop?



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I know I'm opening a can of worms cuz finishing methods are like something that everybody has but…

Coming down to the final stages of our bassinet project. I was originally going to finish this with GF oil/poly semi gloss but on my test pieces it just doesn't seem to add much pop. I've considered Chas. Neils trace coat technique to bring out the figure. Someone at work recommended Waterlox. Never used it before. Any suggestions? Maybe trace coat then Waterlox. I want to retain the "wood" feel so I don't want to finish it with laquer or wb poly.


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I'm curious to hear what you end up using. I've used waterlox on curly maple before, and it came out decent but not as "popped" as I've seen on other projects:



http://imgur.com/4lH8T


I'd be curious to try aniline dyes and/or shellac.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I d be curious to try aniline dyes and/or shellac.
> - bobasaurus


Your box looks great. What did you use on that?

I have transtint liquid amber but it makes it too yellow for my tastes. I also have some powdered aniline brown dye. Maybe dye it then shellac then the waterlox? Or is the shellac overkill and not going to add much chatoyance.

I just don't seem to get the same effect as these guys even allowing for the fact that it's different wood.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Remember to trial on some scrap pieces.


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

my goto is homestead early american dry dye to make figured maple pop. topped with a gloss poly


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

im with you about retaining the wood feel so my go to for just about everything i make is the maloof blend oil finish.you can put on as many coats as you want and it usually brings out the essence of the wood.just try some on a scrap to see if it does what you want.i also rarely use dyes or tints because i like the natural look.hopefully this thread doesn't start another argument-LOL.


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## lumbering_on (Jan 21, 2017)

If you're going to use dye, I say go bold.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> If you re going to use dye, I say go bold.
> 
> 
> - lumbering_on


I like the look, just not what I had in mind for the bassinet.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

+1 Go Bold: 











When I am not adding dye to figured maple, I find using a 'grain sealer' before using Arm-R-Seal highlights grain more than Arm-R-Seal alone? 
If you have dry time, BLO adds more color and best contrast. I like to wipe on 50:50 BLO:MS to reduce amount of oil left on wood before rubbing it out to even intensity, plus to reduce drying/weeping time. 
Or a 1 lb cut of blonde shellac adds less color, and can improve figure.

BTW - Post sealer sanding intensity can also make difference in appearance.

Every figured board is different as to what works best, so test on scraps before deciding. 

Best Luck!


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Oh there are so many ways. Very dependant on just what look you want and how simple you want or complicated you are willing to get. I have several turned bowls and platters in my LJ projects you can lookat. If you see something you like and it doesnt have the finish schedule listed I can probably dig it up. As for close to the grain finishes my favorite is mw ob poly thinned 1:1 with ms and done just like danish oil, flood on, keep wet for ~ 10 min, wipe off. A LOT can be done buy just mixing a little dye in with the poly. Requires testing to get just the right look but otherwise very easy. More color difference can be had with a darker dye 1st, sand back, then poly over it. Its all in the details.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

First tests have shown that plain BLO and plain GF look about the same with BLO maybe having the slight edge. I hate finishing and the logarithmic combos there can be.

I'm leaning towards a coat or two of brown dye, sand down with 220 to remove most of it then a coat or 2 of shellac then 3 coats of GF oil/poly. Sanding with steel wool, gray abrasive pads or 400 grit between coats. Then a wax buff. Maybe the shellac is unnecessary?

Anybody see any major flaws in that thinking??


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## lumbering_on (Jan 21, 2017)

> Oh there are so many ways. Very dependant on just what look you want and how simple you want or complicated you are willing to get. I have several turned bowls and platters in my LJ projects you can lookat. If you see something you like and it doesnt have the finish schedule listed I can probably dig it up. As for close to the grain finishes my favorite is mw ob poly thinned 1:1 with ms and done just like danish oil, flood on, keep wet for ~ 10 min, wipe off. A LOT can be done buy just mixing a little dye in with the poly. Requires testing to get just the right look but otherwise very easy. More color difference can be had with a darker dye 1st, sand back, then poly over it. Its all in the details.
> 
> - OSU55


Can you use a water-based poly with an aniline dye? I've normally just use the dye and then a poly over, but if you can mix it directly that would be ideal.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Can you use a water-based poly with an aniline dye? I ve normally just use the dye and then a poly over, but if you can mix it directly that would be ideal.
> 
> - lumbering_on


Seems like a little dye is called for to bring out the figure. From what I've read you use shellac over the dye because the wb poly will dissolve the dye. But since I'm using an oil finish I might not need it, but it probably can't hurt.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Well…... wb dye sanded back unber ob poly (arm r seal, mw), fine shouldnt be a problem. As for mixing dye into ob poly it must be an ob dye. There are many types of dye available, depends on the solvent.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Well…... wb dye sanded back unber ob poly (arm r seal, mw), fine shouldnt be a problem. As for mixing dye into ob poly it must be an ob dye. There are many types of dye available, depends on the solvent.
> 
> - OSU55


Mine is a water based powder. I'm trying to use the KISS keep it simple stupid route. If anything I'd add a few drops of amber transtint to the dye mixture.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

The wb dye should work, but TEST. Always test any new combination of chemicals before using them on a project. The same dye will be ok, but a significant change in intensity or different colors may not do what is expected. If an ob poly is the top coat no shellac is needed and ob poly provides a lot of chatoyance - which is dependent on gloss level. Using wb finish over wb dye, apply shellac after dye to seal it otherwise some of the dye may lift


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Maybe contact Charles Neil, he has done extensive finishing on curly Maple and is a member here.

[email protected]


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Maybe contact Charles Neil, he has done extensive finishing on curly Maple and is a member here.
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> - Monte Pittman


Actually, I used Mr. Neil's trace coat technique. 2 coats of brown dye with a little amber mixed in then sanded off with 120 then 240 and a coat of GF. They still need 2 more coats of GF with .0000 steel wool between coats and then some wax. I'm happy and I'd say they popped.

This is the panel at the top of the page.









And this panel had a 3D look after the dye and sanding










But turned into this Martian landscape looking thing after applying the GF.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Well done


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Well done
> 
> - CharlesNeil


Wow! A "well done" from the man himself! Thanks. I was impressed at how it looked just after sanding but amazed at how it just jumped out at me as soon as I applied the GF. My wife actually had to touch it to make sure those contours weren't actual depressions in the wood.

I wasn't real happy with the way the jointed seams looked hence the 1/4 round moulding down the middle. But after seeing the way they turned out I might try again.

Thank you again Charles for the technique.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

My pleasure


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## Clarkswoodworking (Jan 13, 2018)

It's alll in the wood !
And good research, I agree 
"We'll done"
I had 20 pieces of that wood and we used 16
Have to dig up some more of that stuff for sure
Scott


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## Clarkswoodworking (Jan 13, 2018)

I should say this is special wood cut for the musical industry 
These are seconds 
Never seen the firsts but they must be very nice


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## Rink (Apr 19, 2018)

Wow, I am about to play with some curly maple for a project and will definitely try this out.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Chas Neil Trace coating to enhance figured wood.
 
Wood Whisperer - Understanding and Using Dyes


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

That has to be some of the most impressive curly maple grain I've ever seen. In the pictures it looks like you carved ripples into the surface. Looking forward to seeing the finished project.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> In the pictures it looks like you carved ripples into the surface.
> - Lazyman


I know, right?! I still can't get over it. When I put the GF on for the first time it made me a little dizzy for a second before my brain recalibrated to know it was flat!

As long as I'm posting pictures here are some comparisons on my practice pieces.

The top one with the blue tape is just GF on top half then one coat of dye and GF on the bottom half. Then the bottom pic is the same as I used on the other panels. 2 coats of dye, sanded then GF. Very cool how certain parts of the wood seemed to pick up the amber more than the brown. Came from the same source but it's more like tiger maple I think. Has that golden tiger stripe look to it.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Hah! For future reference when someone wants to know what it means to pop the grain, this should be what they see.


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