# Dadoes and Rabbets, choose your weapon



## CB_Cohick (Dec 22, 2014)

I am relatively new to the world of joinery. I have begun to appreciate the added strength of joints using dadoes and rabbets. As such, I am always undecided about which tool to use to create these joints. I have used both my table saw and router with satisfactory results. The setup is different for each, but I don't see any appreciable difference in the output.

What is your weapon of choice to create rabbets and dadoes LJ's, and why? I look forward to your wisdom of experience.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Router here. I don't have a dado head for my TS, but I do have a shop-made tenon jig.
Bill


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## barada83 (Feb 25, 2015)

For me, depends on what I'm doing. If it's difficult to manage on the table saw, I have a dado router bit and track. If on the edge, typically I use the table saw and the dadonator - highly recommended.

The table saw cuts much faster than the router so batched cuts goes very quickly versus the router but the bit in the router sets up faster than the dado set in the table saw. So if doing only one, then in this case, the router would be my go to. If I was to choose one, I would have the dado set for the table saw.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

Rabbets on the router are super easy. Just buy a rabbeting router bit with a bearing. That's it. Dadoes will need a jig.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Here's my weapon of choice, when possible.


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

For me: a plane for a rabbet. For dados I've recently started doing it by hand: crosscut saw, chisel and router plane.

In the past when I was still doing them by machine, always the router for the dado, generally a tablesaw for the rabbet.


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

My 2cents.

Routers are faster to setup and cut one joint but you have to reset the fence after each one which takes time. A dado set takes more time to setup for the first cut but if you have to cut a bunch on different mating pieces of the same width it is faster in the long run. A router bit's size is preset and can't be changed so the size of your groove is determined by what bits your own unless you want to make multiple passes where a dado set can be fine tuned to nearly any size at the cost of more setup time. I am not a fan of routers in general as I find them noisy, dusty and dangerous but that's me. I do own a couple I just tend to look for other options before I dig them out.

Cutting by hand is a lot of fun for the first few joints at least and is very quiet so is a good option if you don't feel like dealing with noisy machines plus you get some good exercise in. For a small number of joints it's my method of choice and if I have to a bunch of the same sized joints to cut I tend to dig out the dado stack. I rarely use the router anymore.


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## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

Call me spoiled, but I use a Her-Saf panel router for doing both.


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

> Call me spoiled, but I use a Her-Saf panel router for doing both.
> 
> - Iwud4u


Spoiled.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Layout your dadoes and rabbets on a 4×8 sheet

router them out with a track rail and rip to size with

a track saw. Done.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

As with most things in life it depends.

For dados on long pieces I use a hand held router and a router guide sorta like a track saw

For a couple of quick grooves, dados on short pieces, or rabbets I use the router

If I need to do a lot or want the highest quality (i.e. the groove, dado, or rabbet will be seen) I used a stacked dado set on the table saw.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Rebates?
Wards #78









Dados?
Saw and chisel.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Router for me. Mainly because I want an exact width dado and don't need the hassle of trying to figure out the combo of blades and shims on the table saw (which I have done more than once).

I use an exact width dado jig that is wide enough to span two upper cabinet sides laid side by side or a single base cabinet side. A 1/2 inch pattern bit makes the cut. I usually make two passes cutting away 1/8th inch each time. 1/4 inch is good for me. The plywood fits perfect every time.

For rabbets, I have a cutter that came with a set of bearings so I can cut different widths up to 1/2 inch simply by changing the bearing. Same thing, I make a couple of passes because I am skeered of tear-out.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

For rebates, coping cuts, Shaper is where I ended up. I simply want things to fit without gaps, and I want it Now.
This shaper is of European type- fine adjustable and Repeatable fence, and cutter height. I bought the machine for $700, and it came with a bunch of cutters.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

handheld router for the dado and router table for the rabbets. I do have a stack dado set but rarely use it.

Reason for my choice are simple:
23/32 router bit and small plywood jig for case sides using plywood. 1/4, 1/2, 5/8" bits for other sizes as needed.


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## barada83 (Feb 25, 2015)

I do rabbets all the time on the table saw with the dado set. I just drop on a sacrificial fence and let it rip.


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## CB_Cohick (Dec 22, 2014)

> I use an exact width dado jig that is wide enough to span two upper cabinet sides laid side by side or a single base cabinet side. A 1/2 inch pattern bit makes the cut. I usually make two passes cutting away 1/8th inch each time. 1/4 inch is good for me. The plywood fits perfect every time.
> 
> - MTStringer


MTStringer, that dado jig is just the sort of wisdom I love about this forum. It is one of those, "Why didn't I think of that sooner?", ideas. I will be building that one very soon! Thanks.


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## HornedWoodwork (Jan 28, 2015)

I use a router with a straightedge to do most of my rabbet and dado. I also use a TS with a dado stack. When the work is very fine I use a saw, router (not electric), and chisels. I choose based on the project and how accurate my tolerance needs to be. I also consider if I am cutting once or if I need to repeat it several times. Mostly I route becuase I have perfect control of all aspects of the cut and dial in much more precisely that way.


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## endgrainy (Mar 25, 2013)

Table saw with dado stack for me for both rabbets and dados. Set up, test, then you can cut reliably repeatable joints all day long.

I find reproducibly similar cuts better than measuring for each part. For example, with two bookcase sides, the exact positon of opposing dadoes (ex distance to edge of board) is not as important and their relative position being the same compared to one another other. I find when I use a router, my positioning is a little off. With the tablesaw fence, it's reproducible.

That said, I don't have nice router jig like those listed above. You can do it well either way, it comes down to personal preference.


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