# Biesemeyer fence pictures



## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Hey kind people.

I resently got a hold of a Wadkin ags 10 table saw from the 70's, which is pretty similar to the unisaw from the same period. This saw then, should last many years when i get it fixed.

One of my problems is, that there is no fence at all. I figured i would buy one, but as it turns out, it's impossible to buy after marked table saw rip fences anywhere in europe, let alone Sweden, where i live.

I would really love to have a T-square type fence like the Biesemeyer, but policy prohibits the companys from selling their fences here - guess something to do with safety standards no being compatible.

Anyway - i own a mig welder, so i've set out to make my own, and found a couple of good instructions on how to do so. I've bought the metal and some uhmw.

But i would really like to see the underside of the clamping mechanism on the Biesemeyer. How the slick pads are mounted, so that they can be adkusted, what material the piece the protect the guide tube from the clamping cam is made of etc.

Would one of you kind folks please post a picture of the underside of the clamping part of your Biesemeyer style fence.


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## oluf (Jan 29, 2010)

Go to www.askwoodman.com and look at the videos of the one he built. It is a clone with some improvements. You will get all the information and pictures you will need.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Thanks Oluf - but the link is dead. That sounds like just the thing i need though.

Would still like to see pictures of the original, if anybody has one.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Ok - think i found it. I was www.askwoodman.com. Looks great, and it has a claer shot of the underside of the original Biesemeyer.

I a little surprised that the Biesemeyer has no way of adjusting for square the saw table top. I mean - if the glides that rides on top of the guide tube are worn unevenly, it would make the fence tilt a little? Maybe this it's not an issue?

Maybe i just need to watch the videos from askwoodman. It looks great, though i'm going to stick with a metal fence, since i already bought it, and havn't got the faintest idea how to get a hold of aluminium (aluminum) extrusion.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

here is mine 
hope this helps

this is the bottom standing up against a door
with the pads visible and the handle raised









here it is from the side , and the 'clip' at rest
the handle 'cam' visible at top right







g on it

this is with the 'clip' raised up to the handle 'cam'
(still to narrow for the race tube)









here the handle all the way down
and 'clip' resting too









here in working mode
notice the distance of the 'clip' to the body 
resting this way the distance is to tight for the race tube









here the front showing the adjustment allen screws
that have the slider pads behind them
(earlier models had a spring steel instead of plastic
tack welded at one end so they could move with the allen screw adjustment
and also i have seen some models with allen screws from the top down
to adjust the fence square to the table surface)









here it is mounted on the slider rail
with handle up and cam retracted
so 'clip' is loose for moving the fence
it has a small magnet to keep it in this position









and here the handle is in the locked position
the cam moves the 'clip' forwards and holds the slider tube









when the fence is removed and re-atached
the clip can move forward and engage on the front of the slider tube
it feels like it is OK
but is just kind of jammed somewhat
the cam does not work this way


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

I have an AGS10 that I am restoring. It has a Biesemeyer fence on it. There's pictures in my blog if you want to check it out.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Patron - you're a champ. What an in depth answer. I'm actually touched :,).

I hope this is not pushing it, but could you tell me the dimension of the guide tube and the angle iron that it is attached to?


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## MoPower (Feb 6, 2009)

If you need more pics just say so.Lot of us here are more than willing to help out.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Wow Tyrone - The Wadkins looks awesome. Mine is no where near that condiition, and it has all sorts of problems. The rise and fall jams, about half way down, which i think is beacause of the bearing in the trunion. I'm trying to have a new one made. But that is a whole different topic…

Scot - i good for pictures, but thanks a lot. All i really need is measurements, som i can commence in my restauration.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Oh - another thing. I've ordered some low friction material here http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-slick-low-friction-material-prod21305/?searchfor=slick. The stuff i've ordered is a 6mm sheet.

I noticed that the glides (i guess it's UHMW) have little taps on the Biesemeyer ones, that you put into corresponding holes in the angle iron.

Is the composition of the UHMW such, that it is impossible to glue it with any king of resin (like epoxy). Making small tap on UHMW, and making it all fit, looks to be kind og tricky in the askwoodman videos.


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

Peter, do you have the original riving knife/splitter for your saw? I can't figure out how the splitter is supposed to go on, I need to retrofit a Unisaw splitter to it but I think the Wadkin Bursgreen has a bend in it.

I'll get you the dimensions of the Biesemeyer fence tomorrow, It's too late to go out now. It will probably variate from the others as my fence is a General fence, but it is a Biesemeyer.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Hey Tyrone.

This is a couple of picture of the riving knife setop. A pretty commen problem with the Wadkin is that the middle part of the cast iron that holds the fence is broken. They are held on with two M10 bolts, with ar square part to the head, that fits into the slots.



















Best
Peter


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

Thanks for the pictures. Unfortunately our saws are a bit different. My AGS10 has a splitter rather than a riving knife. Mine stays in the same place.
I can see now what sort of bracket was on there. I was thinking I might retrofit a quick-release splitter like the Unisaw has. I can see myself not wanting to use the splitter at all because it's a pain to unbolt two bolts every time I want to do a non-through cut.

I believe our saws are from the same time. They're pre-63'. The rounded body style was changed in 1963 to the complete sheet steel body.
If there's any dimensions you need or information on specific parts, I can go check my saw and send them to you.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

here is a rough drawing of the fence rails
they can be as long as you like


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Thanks Patron. Great illustration, and in metric - what a service.

I had no idea that the legs in the angle iron was of different widths. I feel more and more confident that i'm ready to build this fence .

Now i just need to get mt saw fixed, so i have somewhere to put it .


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

I measured my fence at 3"x40 1/4"x2". The fence is actually 40" long with a 1/4" plate welded to the back.

The rear rails are thinner that the front rails. 
Front rails: 3" high, 1/4"thick
Rear rails: 2 1/2" high, 3/16" thick
Both rails are 6' long.
The bar on the front is 6' long and it is offset from the left end of the rail 6".

If you give me your e-mail address, I can send you a Sketchup file of my saw which has the rails on it. It's probably a lot easier to understand than what I just wrote.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Sounds good - i've sent you my mail adress. Thank you for all your help - look foreward to seeing your finished saw.


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## Jocko1 (Oct 25, 2012)

Hi Peter,
Please tell me more about you not being able to but a Biesemeyer T-Square style fence. You mention 'policy'. Is this an EU safety law, a Swedish law? I ask because I live in the UK and have wondered for some time why I cannot easily lay my hands on one. I cannot find anything on the web so any info you have would be useful.
Thanks in advance.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

In Europe fences must be retractable to end in front of the
blade or a short fence must end at some specific point. 
It's a safety feature that helps reduce kickback risk. 
The American style T-square fences don't do this. 
The Delta Unifence does.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

What i was told was, that the fences produced in the US can not be sold to people within the EU, because of some regulations i have been unable to find. So nobody will ship an aftermarket fence to the EU.

Kind of wierd since Axminsters small rip fence is pretty much the same, just worse quality.

Sorry i can't be of more help.


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## Jocko1 (Oct 25, 2012)

Peter,
I once wrote to the guys at Sawstop asking when we could expect to see their machines in Europe and they told me that the cost of achieving a CE mark (Conformité Européenne) was prohibitive and as a result we would not be seeing them here in the near future. Perhaps it is this certification that is required by Biesemeyer and the clones. I always thought the reason that the fences were not sold here is that the cost of shipping, at least in small numbers, would mean that it would not be a realistic proposition.

Loren,
I hear what you are saying about the retractable fences but there are many examples in the European market from high end machines down to budget saws from the big box stores that are effectively fitted with cheap, aluminium versions of the T-Square fence just as described by Peter.


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