# 2x4 Shelf Brackets - Simple Joinery/Math question



## bmilcs

I am new to woodworking and primarily using Pine 2×4's and MDF/Plywood.

As far as right angle shelf brackets go*, what angle provides the strongest support for a floating shelf bracket?
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In other words, what dimensions/configuration would provide the strongest configuration & highest weight compacity?

Also, is there any easy joinery techniques that'll help with the structural integrity of this project?

I plan on making several of these to get my lumber off of the floor.

Thanks!
Bryan


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## bmilcs

Edit: I'm such a dummy. I know this could help:










I would't know where to begin with doing this on miter'ed cuts. Setting the table saw at an angle? I don't have a dado stack

*I imagine I wouldn't want to cut a dado on the top piece, because it'd weaken the integrity of the shelf portion that holds the pieces.*










So, with that being said, would this config be the best???


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## Unknowncraftsman

I'm made brackets similar. I just screwed them together if had the right sized nails for my farming nailer I probably would used that.
I guess the notched idea you have would be fine. Plenty enough to hold up a fine stack of wood. Plus you could get some practice at dados.

New woodworker always tend overbuild at least the good ones do. 

Good Luck


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## bmilcs

Thanks AJ. Here's what I was thinking…

Spaced so I could do pieces as small as small as 17-18" ish, to 96".


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## therealSteveN

I go about shelves a different direction. See the pics below. You can change the direction IE against the wall, width, and the amount of bracing on each shelf. The only constant for me is to use a much wider leg material, and the weight is borne on the wall they are attached to, and the legs, which BTW must sit flat to the floor, any angle where leg touches floor must be cut so it is a flush meet.

This current wood rack is in my shop, and today it is stuffed with wood. I can't fathom a guess in weight, but it would easily be 4 trailer loads full, and it was enough to make my truck work a bit to pull it. So a lot….





































The last one just lacks the outside legs to be placed.

I've been doing them this way for a good 45 years, and have never even had a sag, much less a failure. I can't say that about some other wood racks I have seen. Plus on mine I can also use it as a ladder to get up to the top stuff.

On the back wall I used lags to attach the 2x cleats the shelves sit on back there. On 2x to 2x attachments I used Grade 5 bolts and lags To set the 6 inch lags I used a really high priced tool, no pilot holes needed


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## bmilcs

> I go about shelves a different direction. See the pics below. You can change the direction IE against the wall, width, and the amount of bracing on each shelf. The only constant for me is to use a much wider leg material, and the weight is borne on the wall they are attached to, and the legs, which BTW must sit flat to the floor, any angle where leg touches floor must be cut so it is a flush meet.
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> This current wood rack is in my shop, and today it is stuffed with wood. I can t fathom a guess in weight, but it would easily be 4 trailer loads full, and it was enough to make my truck work a bit to pull it. So a lot….
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> The last one just lacks the outside legs to be placed.
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> I ve been doing them this way for a good 45 years, and have never even had a sag, much less a failure. I can t say that about some other wood racks I have seen. Plus on mine I can also use it as a ladder to get up to the top stuff.
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> On the back wall I used lags to attach the 2x cleats the shelves sit on back there. On 2x to 2x attachments I used Grade 5 bolts and lags To set the 6 inch lags I used a really high priced tool, no pilot holes needed
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> - therealSteveN


Can I see it now that it's loaded with lumber?


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