# Shop Stuff



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

*$12 Incremental Stop Block*

An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.

I had posted an incremental stop block a couple of years ago in a blog that used threaded rod. While it worked OK, it had a couple of problems; it wasn't strong enough for heavy use and it wasn't portable to a new fence once the old fence wore out. I wore it out.

So I decided to go simple and strong with a new design. I went and peeked around the Incra website and found the replacement racks for some of their fences. These are plastic like Legos, but have precision teeth on one surface that are spaced 1/32 inch apart. They are 6 inches long and attach with two screws. When two racks are mated to each other they are really locked in place. They are very durable while only costing $2 each. So I bought 10 of them, and used five for this project.

I bought them by going to this web address:
http://www.incrementaltools.com/PARTS_INCRA_Wonder_Fence_p/pc-wonderfence.htm
And then selecting item number 16 from the pull down list on the right hand side:

*ID#16 - PULT - 500600 [Add $1.95]*

I mounted 4 of the racks to a strip of 1/8 inch thick aluminum. A pair of mated racks is about 5/8 inches so this sits nicely on top of a plain old 3/4 inch ply or MDF fence. (I am old school and don't like aluminum fences yet. I cut new zero clearance slots all the time. I made a new fence for these pictures). Then I mounted the aluminum strip on a piece of two inch tall, half inch ply. This assembly is now removable and can be mounted on a new fence. I also installed a row of small magnets to securely hold a ruler.

I then made a stop block with a rack inside and it also has a T-nut for the lock knob. It is kind of wide looking, but the screw holes in the racks are 4 inches apart. It hangs down 1 inch on the back and all the way to the table on the front. There is about an 1/8 inch gap on the inside when the lock knob is screwed out.

It works a charm. It's inexpensive. It's strong. Removal, moving, and re-installing the stop block is very smooth and easy. The whole thing can be moved to another fence in minutes.
.








.








.








.








.








.








.








.
Three items that immediately pop to mind that are missing from this design:

*Micro Adjust* is used to hit the spots between the 1/32 increments. The aluminum bar actually has slotted mounting holes in it so it could slide side to side with a screw adjustment on the side but I could not get this to work consistently and it added a lot of slop. Alternatively the side of the stop block could have a protruding adjustment screw. Or just use shims. 1/32 inch works for most projects.

*Flip Stop* is use to get the stop block quickly out of the way. This requires a hinge which is easy enough, but causes weakness and slop in the system. The block is easy to remove. Maybe I'll add it at a later date.

*Thin or Pointy Stock Catch* is used to keep work-pieces from wedging under the stop block. It is implemented by adding a small groove near the bottom of the fence and a protruding tenon that rides in the groove. This could easily be added.

Comments and suggestions are welcome. I just think this is kind of nice trick to add to a fence for any number of tools.

Steve


----------



## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Outstanding Steve !
Definitely something I'll have to add.
Thank you for the very done post on it.


----------



## ruddy (May 9, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Beautiful! Thanks for posting.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Ingenious Steve. Amazing what a couple of bucks and some brains can do. Unfortunately non of these great ideas work on my Euro machine, but I do enjoy seeing them anyway. I'm sure there will soon be a shortage of these Incra fence parts.


----------



## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Steve, I'm not into cabinetry, but I can see how this would be a godsend addition to any sawbench & someone trtying to achieve accuracy & the ability to go back for repeat cuts.
Give a thinking Man a problem & time to solve & an answere will come forth, guarantee it
well done 
Pete


----------



## MShort (Jan 15, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


GREAT way to spend $12 and save a bundle. Excellent idea !!!


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Mike,
You can get the racks from Incra in metric for the same price 

Steve


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Steve, that is really neat. Thanks. I need to make one like that for our miter saw in Arizona


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Fantastic, Steve. Wow, now that should produce some very precise measures. Thnx for the link too.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Steve: If you were to modify your stop and include something like the Incra stop. then you'd be able to get it dialed in to the actual cutting edge of the blade and get to .001".

I've found out that I need two stops on the fence at the same time. If I'm doing a wrap around grain match I need a both a length and a width at the same time and I use a hinge to allow one to get out of the way.

The project where I used them are here


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Karson, the wrap around grain procedure is exactly why I rebuilt this stop block. Except I just pop the fence back and forth, then I only need one, and it does not have to be a flip stop 
But I still want the micro adjust as an option.

Steve


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


By the way Steve they have the metric parts in a set of 10 for $17.95 and it includes scales and other metric parts.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Steve about 10 years ago the had a clearance special of the Aluminum tracks in 30" length. I bought 6 of them for less than $10.00 a piece. I've used them on drill presses and other jigs.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


yup … some cheap you are

but some smart too

i can see these in various uses

thanks


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Very clever Steve…...I'm sure you will figure out those missing features…...well done…


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


I remember that unit you blogged. You might link to it above for ease of others finding it. It is still one of my favorite favorites. I just loved your ingenuity and cleverness.

This too is a boon in cleaverness. For micro adjust, add a 10-32 bolt that uses a flat-bladed screwdriver into the right side of your block. One turn gives you 1/32" adjustment. Put it in with Loctite(blue) to tighten it up a bit and eliminate the need for a lock nut.

Again, well done.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


You got that fine thinker working again Steve. 
This looks like a good'un.


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


I went to same route, but got the Incra fence for Christmas but you original design is just as good
-don


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Very clever Steve!

Everyone of your projects has that something that solves a problem.


----------



## Billp (Nov 25, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Steve great idea,if you would get one of those self adhesive tapes and stick it on top I think you would find it quit useful. One that reads right to left. You're stop would slide right over the top of it and would be a lot easier to read.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Really good thinking.
You always seem to do the good thinking.
Thanks for sharing this idea.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## hmonnier (Apr 16, 2013)

SPalm said:


> *$12 Incremental Stop Block*
> 
> An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.
> 
> ...


Steve,
What a great idea and plan to take advantage of those incremental blocks….. My blocks arrived just moments ago, we have 5 days of lousy rainy weather, and a warm dry shop…... 
Henri


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

*Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.









.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.









.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.









.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.









.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.









.








.








.

Ta Da








.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


nice one. this is what jigs are all about - taking something and simplifying it like THAT to take the guess work out, and make it repeatable.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


very cleaver Steve ,


----------



## fernandoindia (May 5, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Nice one Steve.

And yes, turning is 90% sharpening, 3% turning, and 7% fixing mistakes. 
My first rolling pin became a toothpick in a breeze!


----------



## Blackpearl (Jan 11, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Steve,

This I will, with your permission, copy.

Actually I will copy it with out your permission also, but that is the kind of guy I am.

I will need to work out a setting for the SRG and the skew also, they could be done with wedges rather than the "holder on a leg" that the gouges would need.

Thanks I can not wait to get out to the shop now.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


COOL way to jig-up-holder!

Does the Across-the-Edge sharpening rather than 90* to the Edge come into play?
... like with a chisel… I sharpen by moving the chisel in-line with the handle, not cross-grain…
... does it make a difference which way the angle of the sand-paper meets the tool?

Looks good!


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Hey Cliff, go for it. My pleasure.

Next up are the other tools too.
Stay tuned.

Steve

@Joe - I do not believe the cross grain sanding is a problem. Also these are lathe tools, a lot of time they do not have to be 'as sharp' as a chisel or plane. But what do I know?


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Thanks Steve for designing a simple but accurate solution. I will have to make one.
-don


----------



## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


very nice indeed


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Very nice setup Steve. Simple and effective. True that turning don't need to be as sharp, but they need to be 'touched up' often. Happy turning!


----------



## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Steve, this is one for my favorites in case I ever pull my lathe out of storage. (drum sander took it's space) I did my fingernail gouge sharpening by hand and eye! Not always so good! Thanks.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Nice work on designing the jig. Think I'll go and start on this right now as my gouges are in need of realignment. Thanks for the pics.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Cool setup Steve!

I am copying too…


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Cool and simple, Steve!!

When I got hooked on turning, it was in a seminar taught by Lyle Jamieson. During the day he brought out many neat tools that he used there and sold from his web site. But, he let us measure and copy anything he had and a lot of us were busy drawing and measuring. The fingernail grind on his bowl gouges is done with a similar holder that fits in a pocket out front of a pedestal grinder and swings on a rod similar to what you have made.

It was called 2-4-7 grinding setup. Essentially the pocket for the rod was 4" down from the center of the wheel. the pocket was spaced out 7" from the surface of the wheel and the end of the gouges was clamped in a fixture and stuck out 2" from the holder. This is so nice to set up the tool exactly each time to grind right over the surface from the last sharpening and not waste any material.

It is so important to have these simple fixtures because some of them that do multiple things are so difficult to use, you have to pull out the instructions for set up each time. There is no time for that when turning.

Thanks for sharing , Steve!!


----------



## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Great post Steve & I am sure it will be of immense benifit to any new commers to turning (& some seasoned as well )
I have two set of the Woodcut System, one for my small 6" machine & one for the 8", fancy though they may be they do no more than the practical solution you have made here.
If it get the job done to your satisfaction then thats all hat matters 
well done & I can see a lot wanting to copy :)
Pete


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this clever and informative idea Steve. Well done!


----------



## CalgaryGeoff (Aug 10, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Another keeper! I think 120 grit is more than sharpe enough for turning tools.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Nice job Steve!

Thanks for posting this & thanks for adding to my shop "to-do" list!!!
Not only do I need to make this jig….
I need to start working on building the "Stumpy Nubs" WS300 Sharpening Station.

I've had the plans for a while, but not the motivation. Thanks for also providing that!!!


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Steve,

How generous of you to share such a good plan! Now I need to get busy and make it for my husband who does the turning and always says that sharpening is the worst part. I've wanted to get him some sort of jig system for his grinder, but he said he doesn't do enough turning to justify the expense. I already have the WorkSharp; now I just need to complete your jig system for him.

We can't wait to see "the rest of the story." Thanks for sharing.

L/W


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Wow nice job and cleaver as always! Great set up.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


That looks like an awesome setup, Steve. Very good, and thnx for sharin it


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Steve…what a great easy fix for a complex grind…...I will be adding this to the shop list…...Thanks.


----------



## SafferinOz (Jul 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Great Jig, thanks for sharing.


----------



## DWMarlow (Mar 20, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


Great idea too bad the watermark and badly defocused pictures thanks to Photobucket
Dave


----------



## JDSmithSr (8 mo ago)

SPalm said:


> *Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp*
> 
> While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.
> 
> ...


I know this is an older thread, but it's a lifesaver. I don't have a slow speed grinder and the cost of one of those plus a fingernail jig is not in the cards right now. Not only is this fun to build, but the specific pictures and measurements save a LOT of guesswork and adjusting. Thank you! This is beautiful work.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

*Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*

This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.

Now on to the standard Spindle Roughing Gouge (SRG) and a Bowl Gouge. Both of these gouges are sharpened at 45 degrees. I started out making a triangle ramp to lift the gouges at 45 degrees, with grooves to roll the gouge in, but I gave up on it for now. One problem that I had was that my roughing gouge is not a perfect circle - it is more like a smiley face. It would not roll well in the groove that I had routed. So I went with the collar around the tool method. I might revisit this someday, but this certainly works pretty well for now. This is a pretty common way of sharpening.

First up was setting up the standard tool bar. The height on this is critical, and adjustable. I wanted it to be consistent, so I cut two little blocks at an inch and a half, and placed these under the bar. These blocks stay in place for all of the jigs.








.
Then I made a holder for each tool. Drilled a hole large enough for the tool to pass through, drilled two bolt holes, and then split the bock in two. I trimmed the top piece to be flat so it would rest securely on the gouge. I then glued a wooden washer to the bottom piece.








.
Clamp these to the tools. Slide it back and forth until it is at 45 degrees. Lock it down and make a setting tool for next time. The large gouge is at 1.5 inches and the small gouge is at 1.6 inches. Your settings may vary. Lay the gouge on the bar and sharpen by rolling it with a smooth motion. I waxed the washers to keep them from sticking.








.








.








.








.
Ta Da








.
Now for the Skews. Pretty much the same thing. To make the tool holder I cut some thin scraps into strips. The center section, which is thinner than the scew, has a cut at 30 degrees and is glued to one side with a gap of the width of my widest skew. The assembly is then clamped on to the skew and adjusted for a 15 degree bevel. A jig was made to remember this position for next time. Now on to the bar and sharpened, then flip and sharpened on the other side.








.








.








.
Ta Da








.
I actually did this for the cut-off tools too, but free hand sharpening is probably good enough for them.

Thanks for looking.
Comments and suggestions are very welcome.

Steve


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Great blog Steve.

I must say the pictures are excellent.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


You are one clever dude.
Gotta love that wixey.
Thanks for the post.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


I would never use that much time or effort to sharpen my turning tools Steve. Nonetheless, my way is a personal preference and not a how to rule for anyone else. I really admire your ingenuity in the way you made these excellent jigs and the results show that they give you beautiful results. The exception to my own sharpening preference is the skew chisel. I am willing to spend a fair amount of time getting a razor edge on the skew. This is because you don't have to sand after a skew cut with a nice sharp edge. There is no doubt that you will get nice smooth cuts with those other chisels too, but you could settle for less and finish off with the skew. this would save you a lot of time and tedium while turning. I'm not trying to convert you, just trying to justify my viewpoint. Happy turning!


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Brilliant and simple system. I don't even own a lathe or a Worksharp, but this is going in my favorites in case I ever do.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


I do own both a lathe and a Worksharp. Thanks for the ideas and tutorial on this Steve. I have always shied away from sharpening, feeling I don't have the ability. This makes me think I might be able to handle this.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Steve you sure you aint a rocket surgeon


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


NICE…

COOL…


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Nice set up you made for sharpening. I never did know what specific angle these tools were to be. I had just been following the old pattern.

Thanks, Steve!


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Steve; thanks for the lesson and jigs to sharpening lathe tools. I usually just go by eye and get mixed results. I will save this blog to my favorites.
-don


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Hey guys, thanks for the kind words.

The angles are what I measured on brand new Sorby tools. They were not the sharpest things, but I assumed they were the correct angles. (?)

Couple of thoughts: True this does seem a little anal for lathe tools. Heck, I would just free hand them back in the old old days. But those were Carbon Steel and easily dulled and easily sharpened. I am amazed at the strength of the metal in these new tools. Maybe High Speed Steel and maybe high quality too… Anyway they can wear out sandpaper quickly when forming the initial edge. So maybe invest in some 80 grit PSA discs too, or at least extra 120 grit. I get them cheaper without the hole in the center and just cut one myself with a scissors. Amazon Prime is addicting.

Steve


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Great sharpening jigs, Steve! Who needs a Tormek, right!

I recently modified my skew chisel grind to more of a curved edge. It really has reduced the number of catches.








I wish I had done this a long time ago. It would have eliminated a lot of "skew frustration".
Here's a link to the procedure I used- http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/reviews/archive/2010/06/02/reshaping-the-skew-chisel.aspx


----------



## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


You have helped a lot of guys out with these two posts Steve, well done for passing on your skills 
Pete


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Wow Lew, that looks tempting.

1. How am I going to sleep tonight without figuring out how to do *that* on the WorkSharp?

2. It sure looks like you put a shine on your skew Sir. I guess I am not that anal after all.

3. Did you put a round over all down the short side of the skew? And a chamfer down the long side?

Steve


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Steve,
Some would say anal is my middle name but that's another story.

This skew is an Oval Skew and came with both "edges" rounded over. On my older flat skew, I did do the round over on the short edge. That really makes it slide along the tool rest much smoother. As for the long side, it still has a square edge.


----------



## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Very clever and nice work.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Steve,

Now I just need to get busy and make these little jigs! My husband just made another newel post today; just one left to make. I wish I could have had these made for him to use since he always comments on the difficulty of getting the tools sharpened correctly.

We certainly do appreciate your willingness to share this in such acute detail that even I should be able to make these jigs.

L/W


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Good stuff Steve….Thanks.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Great job and cleaver as always! Really nice!!!!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Excellent, Steve. Looks like one heck-of-an-edge!


----------



## wood_fox (May 30, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Sharpening Gouges and Skews on the WorkSharp*
> 
> This is part two on my journey of sharpening my lathe tools. The first part was a Fingernail Gouge.
> 
> ...


Wow Steve - what a great setup you've come up with. I've been researching all morning on how to sharpen lathe tools, looking at slow vs regular grinders, tormeks, etc… I've wanted to get a worksharp because it seems like I can sharpen many other things quicker and more accurately, but was a little dismayed at the number of add-ons I'd have to buy to get it to do lathe tools repeatedly and accurately (according to the WS website). These options look great, inexpensive, and cool - thanks for sharing!


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

*Two shop helpers*

I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
.








.








.








.
Another problem was that I had to cut some 37 inch tall sides (24 inches wide), and my fence only allows cuts to 31 inches. So I made a simple removable plug to fit into the fence channel and extend it by using a cut off from a Douglas Fir 4×4 on the bandsaw. I then clamped a board onto the back for the fence to rest on. Seems to work a charm. I have a pencil mark on the left side of the fence that points to the ruler that is exactly 10 inches less than what I am going to cut. You might be able to see it pointing to 27 which means that the fence is set to 37 inches.
.








.








.








.








.








.
Here is a quick pic of one of the cabinets that I built recently. Guest bathroom, maple with quarter sawn veneered frame and panel doors.
.








.

Steve


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Very smart stuff, Steve. And the bathroom looks great.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Cool Beans, Steve!

That table saw fence extender is exactly what I need









Gorgeous job on the bathroom.


----------



## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Steve,
Love your ideas. That fence extension is a great idea. I already have an extended table (router table attached) but sometimes I need just that little extra & NOW I know how to make that a possibility. Nice powder room revamp.
Jim


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


You got a good thinker there Steve, if I might steal a turn of phrase from a good friend.


----------



## KnotCurser (Dec 31, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Very clever Sir!

I am going to remember those pocket hole jigs.

Cheers

-bob


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


I used to think you were smart. 
Now I consider you a genius.

The pocket hole tip is outstanding. It's like announcing to Kreg, hey I'm not going to buy 4 of your right angle clamps!

The TS tip is creative indeed.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Steve: I've got a friend on LJ's Lee Jesberger and he has made plastic vacuum blocks that he used to hold the piece together until they are screwed.

I've always meant to make some.

Yours look like a great idea also.


----------



## Maddhatter (Aug 9, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Steve, great Ideas, looks like Rockler will have a new jig-it for sale soon. Wonder were all those good ideas come from ???


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Brilliant solution Steve.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


That's good stuff there Steve. Definitely need to build those pocket hole jigs…. thanks….....


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Don't buy the "no rocket surgeon" stuff.
I'm pretty sure he is one.


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Steve; You inspire us all with your ideas. thanks for sharing.
-don


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Thanks people.
I used both of these thingies today and they work pretty well. I am mildly pleased with myself.

Then there is always tomorrow.
Steve


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Very creative!! Nice going, Steve!!

cheers, Jim


----------



## whitewulf (May 11, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


"Thingies"??? ;-)


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Slick.


----------



## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


I like your style Steve this is one smart move! Oh, I like the vanity too!

Thanks for sharing!!


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Now that is practical innovation !
Like the way you approached the problem with a simple solution ,good stuff .


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


I got to tell you: you are one of the top brains on this site…


----------



## fernandoindia (May 5, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


yeah, smart one again Steve.

Right Ian, and he still claims not being a rocket surgeon.


----------



## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Very nice cabinet and slick method of extending your fence.

I built cabinets to pay my way through college and get an Engineering degree. After a career in Aerospace Engineering I can say that Rocket Science (surgery?) is easier.

The laws of physics don't change their mind about the color after the cabinets are painted, they don't re-frame walls after parts are cut and they don't make you redraw the plans a dozen times 'cuz "it just doesn't feel right yet".


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


That extension thingy is a gr8 idea


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Cool stuff Steve.
And what a fine bathroom, your cabinet brings life.
Happy new year,
Mads


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Two shop helpers*
> 
> I have been building a lot of cabinets recently. Not my favorite thing to do. Anyway, I came up with a couple of jig thingies to help. First problem was assembling carcasses all by myself. Pocket screws make it fast, strong, and easy to build a carcass. My problem was getting the first three pieces screwed together. So I made a bunch of little blocks by drilling a hole in them with the pocket screw jig. I then slightly rounded a small piece of 3/8 inch dowel and glued it in the hole. When tapped into an empty hole in the bottom of the carcass piece it will overhang by about a half inch, and form an overhang that is flush with the bottom piece. I tap a couple of these blocks in and then set it on top of the sides. A single clamp will now hold the sides tight and aligned. I then screw in the corners, tap the blocks out, and finish screwing the middle. Easy peasy lemon squeasy.
> .
> ...


Steve, what a great idea… That brain of yours is always turning… Hope all is well, I was thinking of you today and thought I would say hello. Havent been on much in the last 6 weeks. Talk soon…. Great looking bathroom as well.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

*Machine Cut Through Dovetails*

Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.

I have been playing around with dovetails for the last couple of weeks. I have tried many methods of making them, as complete hand cut ones are just too much work for me. I own a commercial Leigh dovetail jig but I have never been happy with the look or the futzing that it took to set it up. So this is what is working for me, all ideas are cobbled together from other designs. I cut the pins on a router table and then cut the tails on a bandsaw. It requires virtually no machine setup once two simple sliding jigs are made. The bottoms of the tails are still chopped out with a chisel, but with thin pins, this is really easy.
.








.
I will show a whole sequence of pics on how I do it. Not sure if anything is really new here, but this works for me. First mark the center of the pins with a pencil line on the outside surface, as seen as four pencil lines on the piece of cherry. That's it. The width of the pins is determined later.








.
My router table is really just the wing of my tablesaw. I did not have a miter gauge slot for it, so I plowed a 3/4 inch grove in a jointed 2×4 and bolted it to the wing.








.
I then made a simple sliding sled out of 1/2 inch ply and glued on a stick to ride in the slot. I mounted two fences at opposing angles to the sled and supported them with triangle blocks. The fences determine the angle of the dovetail. (I actually made two of these sleds: One at 8.5:1.5 or 10 degrees and the other at 8:1 or at about 7.5 degrees. But the 8:1 ratio is what I would recommend.) To determine the position of the fences use the miter slot as a reference. Measure up 8 inches, and over 1 inch, and draw a line. Do another line in the opposite direction. Glue the fences on these lines making sure they are 90 degrees to the sled surface, add sticky sandpaper to the inside, glue triangle brackets to the outside, drill a hole for height adjustment access, and add a vacuum attachment.








.
I used a 1/2 inch straight router bit and raised it through the sled to make the cutting slot. To set the height of the bit, place the tail work piece (walnut) on the sled and set the bit height just a tad taller than it is thick.








.
I drew two lines on the sled that are 1/16 inch and 1/8 inch away from the bit on the left side. These determine the width of the pins. I really just use the 1/16 inch line which makes a pin width of 1/8 inch. But choice is good. I have half split this and made 1/16 inch pins, but they are too small for my taste.

Slide the sled so that the bit is somewhat in the center. Place the pencil line of the work piece on the pencil line of the sled and plunge into the side of the router bit. The bit enters the outside of the work piece first so it will be a clean cut. Back out and continue down one side, flip the board and do the other angle. Make sure that wood chips do not get under or behind the board when moving it. I use an old paint brush to flip any errant chips into the dust extractor as I progress. It finishes quickly. No clamps or spacing blocks. I want that hand cut look.

The closest fence. (Pic taken from the back)








.
And the furthest fence.








.








.








And I end up with this:








.
Now transfer the pins to the tail board. I stand up the pin board on the end of the tail board and use a pencil to reach inside the pins and draw lines for the tails. I also use a roller marking gauge to cut a slight groove all around the tail board that is the thickness of the pin board plus a tad.








.
Whew. Now the tails.
I made a sled for the bandsaw out of 1/2 inch ply and cut a partial slot. This is the reference for marking. Draw pencil lines from a point on this cut, of 90 degrees, and two at the 8:1 angle. (I also have a set for 10 degrees, but you don't have too.) Take a piece of ply that will be the fence and cut three partial kerfs into it by holding the fence on the pencil lines.

Remove the fence and drill two holes through it for locating dowels. Flip the fence over and transfer (drill through)these two holes into the sled so that the fence will be behind the blade. Do this on all three pencil lines. Then glue in short dowels into the fence. The fence should now be able to pop into each of the three positions.

I also clamped a stop block on my bandsaw's fence to act as a depth stop. You can just see it in the upper left corner of the pictures. 








.








.








.
Install the fence at one of the angles. Retreat the blade into the fence. I place the tail board so the saw cut will just cut the pencil line, but start conservative and creep up on the cut if you want.








.
And continue on.








.
Multiple cuts can be made if you don't like chopping out waste. The stop block helps the blade from going too deep.








.
Align the fence to the other position, and continue.








.
Align the fence to the 90 degree position and cut off the outside tails.








.
Make more plunge cuts to remove waste.








.
A little chisel work. Place a chisel on the cut line at the bottom of the tails and tada.








.
Thanks for looking. Now I need to make some projects with dovetails.
Steve


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


You may not be a Rocket Surgeon, Steve, but you sure a Brain Scientist! Cool way to do these, thanks!!


----------



## nailbanger2 (Oct 17, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Tastes like chicken with tarragon. Another well done system. After another 5 reads I may be able to understand it enough to make one. Thanks.


----------



## Perfect45Degree (May 16, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing your process! I LOVE that you came up with your own way to do this. 
Always a treat to see someone thinking! And your results look fantastic. 
One of the reasons I love this site so much!!
Jacquelyn Smith


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Looking good.
What are you getting ready to build?


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


COOL setup & procedure…

My router table does not have a miter groove…
... I could use the outside edge!!
... I will give it a try sometime.

DT's look good!

Thank you!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Favorited

I can not think of reason why you couldn't do tails first.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Thanks people.

Seems like a lot NB, but really it is pretty simple. A long post I know. I thought of breaking it into two, and posting more complete descriptions and drawings, but hey…

Scott, I have a request for a cherry wall cabinet. And then the thought of doing some tool cabinets. I need to make a trip to the wood store.

LS: I guess you are right. If you think tails first is preferable. Huh. Both jigs allow you to slice off very very fine slices to make the DTs fit nicely. My mind is off somewhere trying to make half blinds with this …..

Steve


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


You are quite the engineer…..that is really clever stuff. I really need to give this a try…..Thanks Steve..


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Steve: A great jig and a very nice tutorial.

a great tip on a slot.


----------



## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Steve, you seem like the right guy to ask this question. In his book "Heirloom Boxes" 2010 printing, Peter Lloyd has some pictures and a brief description of a MDF fence/carriage assembly (pages 20-21-22) that he makes his variable blind dovetails with. It looks like a simple set-up but he doesn't explain it in detail so it's over my head. He describes it as "The MDF 'fence' assembly which enables my shaper to do just about anything" He states it would also work on a jointer.

If you have access to this book I would love to hear/read what you think.

Thanks


----------



## CalgaryGeoff (Aug 10, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Hey Steve, very ingenious dovetail jig creation. Great work.


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Steve, this is a very ingenious piece of engineering with results that look better than anything commercial I have seen. Thanks for sharing your thought process, and I will definitely have to give this process a try. Favorited!


----------



## oakwood (Sep 25, 2012)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


I like it. Very good idea and thank you for sharing.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Thanks people.

Daniel: I am not familiar with that book or that procedure. I have been looking at every DT jig I can for research to solve my lack of handtool skills. So I am interested. I went to Amazon hoping they would let me look at a couple of pages, but no dice. So… I am not of much help with what I know. Why don't you post it to the larger audience here on LJs and see if somebody understands it (and let me know).

Steve


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


What nailbanger said! Wonderful ingenuity to come up with this Steve, and nice of you to share it. The Leigh jig has worked well for me. What are you going to do with that 20 lbs. paperweight (your Leigh jig)?


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


An instant favorite here as well. Gotta love clever solutions!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Top shelf ingenuity Steve.WowZa!! Thnx for sharing your process


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Hey Lenny,

The Leigh is still a pretty machine just sitting there reminding me how much I spent on it. And it is still the only way I've got to do blind dovetails - at least so far.

Steve


----------



## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Well done! The proof is beautiful dovetails.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


You got a good thinker Steve.
Where did I hear that?
Excellent process, you're drawing me back to the bright side


----------



## ruddy (May 9, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


And I thought I would never have to make handcut dovetails again! I think I may have to try this as it still has the freedom to allow variable spacing and requires some skills beyond using a router jig.
Great tutorial Steve, thanks for sharing your wisdom. Another task for the Bucket List.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Thanks for describing your process Steve.
I tried the band saw, router table for dovetail once but it was only ok.

I like how you define you ratio on the table saw.

I will try again.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


I like it! If I get too lazy to do them by hand or have too many to do by hand, it looks like a winner ;-)


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


BTW, this should make the top 3! Too bad blogs aren't in the running ;-(


----------



## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Steve, what everyone else has said! I think you even added a little jalapeño to that chicken. You almost make me want to finish rebuilding my bandsaw. I gave the other one away.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


That is well thought out and you make it look simple and straight forward .
Thanks for the excellent blog and pics 1


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Your tutorials never dissappoint, Steve. This one is no exception. A thoroughly well laid out and thought through example. I might even try this, myself.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

SPalm said:


> *Machine Cut Through Dovetails*
> 
> Simple, Fast, Easy, Thin Pins, Variable Spacing, Looks Hand Cut, Simple Set Up, Tastes like Chicken.
> 
> ...


Steve, your projects and blogs are always brainy, but this one takes the cake. I don't care much for the typical router cut dovetails, but yours turned out like handcut ones and your jigs here are much simpler and better than any commercial jigs I've ever seen or used. This is an amazing post that should open the dovetail door to many woodworkers.


----------

