# Outfeed Table Slots



## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Howdy guys,

I am going to be building an outfeed table this weekend and I need some advice. I am using an old plastic laminate heavy duty door as the table top. It is 1 3/4" thick and is banded with plywood, with mdf in the middle. I plan on routing out miter slots to continue the slots from the table saw. My question is should I oversize the outfeed table slots a little bit to give myself some leeway when I follow through with the crosscut or miter sled? I don't really expect to be able to get this outfeed table to sit within .001 of where it needs to be, because it is free-floating on casters with leg levelers and won't actually be attached to the saw. I am thinking it would be nice for it to be EXACTLY the same size as my slot on my table saw and line up perfectly, but that is a pipe dream and attempting it would probably cause more problems than it would solve. If I do leave a little leeway, how much are you guys thinking (1/16", 1/8"), and would you do it in the bottom of the slots as well as the sides?

As always, thanks in advance for the wisdom


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## pauldye (Sep 10, 2012)

great question. When I made my outfeed table, I tried to get a perfect fit. It didn't happen, but nobody can notice the mistakes but me.

I have found the width to be a little tight. When mounting the outfeed table, I need to put it exactly correct or the mitre gauge doesn't slide well. I wonder if the tight width is worth the trouble??


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I would oversize them unless you intend to attach it to the back of your saw. You'll have a devil of a time re-aligning them every time you bump your outfeed table.


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

See, I am thinking that as long as I keep downward pressure on the sled over the table saw slots, I won't really need the tight fit in the outfeed table. I figure I can probably get up to 2/3 of the sled off of the actual table saw top before I start having wobble issues (as long as my sled is perfect)


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

Yes. I'd make the slots ~1" wide. I just made my outfeed table 3/8" lower than my table saw to avoid the whole issue.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

I can't for the life of me figure out why people add these slots in the first place.
I've always just kept my outfeed table far enough away from the saw table to allow the miter gauge to travel past the blade, it's only a few inches. I add a sloped piece of hardwood at the front to steer "droopers" back up and have never had a problem

I use my outfeed table for all kinds of other work as well and I would be forever cleaning out the recesses if I had them.

Am I missing something ???


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

My big workbench doubles as my outfeed table and I didn't want slots in it so I just raised the tablesaw to where it is 1/2" above the bench top.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

I also use my outfeed table as a workbench and it is on worktable casters that raise up for mobility. I don't need miter slots in the table since I keep the worktable 6 or 8" away from the saw. These casters work great since my worktable is 3×8 ft and I move it occasionally for some projects.


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## AlanBienlein (Jan 29, 2011)

I never had them in my out feed tables. Never saw a reason for them. Out of all the shops I have worked at only two of them had the slots cut in the out feed table and all they did was collect saw dust and other junk that can cause a potential kick back.


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## WoodRasp (Nov 5, 2012)

In my opinion it's just a matter of choice,The only time mine get used is when i use my oversized panel sled. I would go without, and add them later if needed. Good luck.

https://picasaweb.google.com/112481960743426170569/KregAssemblyTable


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

+1 for having the outfeed table 3/8" lower. No need for slots.


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Awesome input guys. As usual, all of the input has really made me reconsider. I think I'll probably leave the slots out for now and see how I like it. It's much easier to cut them out later than fill them back in later. And now that I think about it, I could definitely see how they would just be another spot for dust to collect.

Nothing beats this site for a plethora of ideas in a short amount of time. Thanks again fellow LJs


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

My "outfeed table" (my workbench" is actually 3/4 lower than my table saw. Why? Because I ALWAYS have 1x stock or 3/4" plywood strips and if I need some extra support I lay them on top of my workbench and have a surface that's real close to being level with the table saw. Need 6 feet of outfeed table? Use longer pieces. My shop is not large so this saves space when I don't need a big outfeed area.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Don't even think about making the slots to fit the miter gage bar exactly. It's not going to happen. Make the slot wide enough so the bar doesn't hit the sides. 1/8" will work. Some say no slot and put table 3/4" lower. Thats fine. I personally prefer the table the same height as the saw top.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

mine is attached to the TS. It sits even with the TS top, and is 4×7. I have slots that are 1/2" wider each way than the miter gauge slot. They are also clear through to keep the dust buildup from happening.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

My outfeed miter slots are wide, about 1 1/2" wide… Getting them perfect is pointless.

Your saw's slots will guide the sled / jig / tool, just allow room on the table to clear the rails. Extra room allows things to be out of alignment and still allow a happy woodworker.

+1 on the outfeed being nearly saw height. Mine is ~ 1/8" lower, and chamfered on the leading edge.


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