# refurbishing old tools



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*

Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.








My tool restoration skills are fixing to be sharpened








hey Dennis I need to borrow your gutter








Hey Mike do you think I will have time to catch up on the bucket 








My lovely wife allowed me to spend $150.00 bucks today. She came back with a pig piggy bank. And our daughters go prom dresses.
I think I got the better deal.


----------



## vcooney (Jan 4, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Nice, when you refurbish these tools do you have to square them again or did they retain their flatness?


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


niiicee planes at first glans 
when do you need it ASAP or in a copple of years 
may I surgesst you use a glass or a small container if that all your have for now ….LOL
as fare I can see the second plane in the second picture is a side rabbet plane ..comes in pair
(used to make sliding dovetails , dadoes and rabbets wider if necessery
or a snipe-bill planes …comes in pair but its realy hard to see from the angle and I´m possiple 
wrong as always  I only gess from what I can see of the bottom edge since it look very thin

pictures from behind and bottom wuold realy bee a big help to make the green bulb shine brighter ….LOL

good luck with them and enjoy playing 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


The two fore planes do have a 1/64 to 1/32 of displacement. Some sand paper on a true surface should do. That should be no problem. Out of the 5 molding planes 3 are good. The other two are a little far gone. But I am going to give it a try.


----------



## Rob200 (Sep 21, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


you did get a grate deal


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Vince :
wooden planes has to bee checked regulary do to the season swinging of the humidity 
thats one of the reasons beside the use of them that wooden soles wear over the years 
and at some point need a lasch around the mouth to renew it or have a new sole its
pretty much the same amount of work 
some swear to metalplanes becourse of this and other swear to wooden planes becourse
they are warmer to hold and gives a speciel feeling when wood runs on wood

well there is alot of good books out there if you want to know more of wooden planes 
and L Js that can explain it alot better than I can since english is a second language to me 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


here ya go Dennis



































this one is missing its iron


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Dennis I agree with the feel. The only bad thing is where I live, it is considered sub-tropical. The humidity will kill you. My shop bench moves 2 feet between the seasons. 
thx Vince and Robert


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


I went out about two weeks ago and it produced this.
http://lumberjocks.com/superdav721/blog/20884
and this
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1890


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


LOL  then I surgesst you have two sets of planes one for each season 

and you are right sub-trobic ain´t me if the humidity is tooo high 
tooo cold the back kill me , I like the sun but my skin don´t 
so around 20-24 degree selcius with spread clouds , some wind and some shadow for me 
I´m good just like we have it here in Denmark but the high level of wather in the air year around
and salt on this island is a real killer for iron its a nervewrecking competition to ceep
the uncureble desise rustigithis away from the tools and cars :-(

Dennis


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


I did see your rewiew of it 
and if you take a turn by my bragging gloats you will see the work I have infront of me …LOL

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Dennis I am in anticipation of the work in front of you


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Nice catch Superdav.

I'm not sure if you need it, but there was a nice article in the last Popular Woodworking magazine specifically on tuning up wooden Hollows and Rounds. You've got two handy hollows there.

I think the plane in the second photo (of the first set of photos) is a grooving plane. Probably 1/2 of a set of match planes for making tongue and groove. Even without its mate, can still be very handy for making the grooves for drawer bottoms if its dimensions are right for it.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Thanks Swirt most helpful. The only small problem I have no iron for the groove plane. Does anyone have resources for old plane irons.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


lie-neilsen has new irons to sideescapments planes made the old way …...tappered tang

they sell them to people who want to made planes self you just have to headtreat them 
after shaping


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Other than Lie Nielsen, I am not familiar with any new sources. Usually I just keep my eyes open for planes that or in horrid shape but have good irons and are close to what I need. Grooving plane irons are a little tough though as they have a little angled groove cut in them that the metal skate fits into. Makes it harder to make do with one from another plane. I am sure they can be cut by a careful hand with a file, but I've never had a lot of talent in that regard 

The only solution I have found for something like that is to bring it with me whenever I go hunting for old tools. That way I can quickly check and see how any possible other iron might fit it.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Ill check neilson out. thx guys!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Ohh I've been at it again. shhhhh [antiques]*
> 
> Went shopping again today and have found many things. I found 2 fore planes, molding planes, grooving planes, rabbit plane and a folding ruler.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave. I think I replied on the wrong blog, but I hope you will join our bucket group. With all those fantastic new old planes you are pre-qualified. You will need one with rounded bottom. We are going pretty slow with this project, so no problem to catch up.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*

The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.









It was in excellent condition. The main problem is the very corner of the back of the iron is a little concave. With a few sharpening's it will come into the correct flatness. I placed the iron in the bed and it produced a rabbit with beautiful shavings. It was made by H. L. Naramore Goshen Mass. circa 1865-1872








Then i got started on the bead molding planes. The first was a 3/8 bead molding plane made by Shiverick circa 1865-67. It needs major honing. I do not have a slip-stone that will do this properly. So it will be set aside for latter. 








The next was a #10 bead made by Winstead Plane co. out of Winchester CT circa unknown.








It was in very good condition and the iron needed very little attention. It is a 3/4 and produced sufficient shavings.








Then with most of the day left I started on my first fore plane. It is from Alex Mathieson & Sons Glasgow Scotland. I will need to investigate the markings more to pin the manufacture date down. But its between 1841-19xx.








I started by dis-assembly and checking the flatness of the bed. This plane has seen some abuse. The throat is hollowed a bit. But with some sanding the toe, mouth and tail are in the same plane.








The cap iron was in fare shape and only needed flattening and a good polish.








I honed on the iron for 2 solid hours. I am right at the edge of turning a burr and my arm needs a break.








I will continue in a day or two.








Seeing how I now have 3 fore planes. I metal and 2 wood. The setup possibilities are mind boggling. hew


----------



## Rob200 (Sep 21, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


boy that looks like a fun day


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


That is a good day's work. Thanks for including what you could find on the history too. I enjoyed following along.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


It was Robert, swirt most of the old tools i have, are stamped with the owner's name on them. Ma-bee one day I will come across a famous furniture maker on a rare plane.. owwww


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are having fun there Dave. The shavings off that first one were really impressive. I can see you using there a lot after you're finished restoring them.


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


very interesting. I hope to see more.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


I'm jealous of that skew! She's a beauty. Excellent work!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


thx Mike, ratchet and Bertha


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


that scew realy works well 

not bad for a few hours work ,ceep up the good work but don´t rush 

I returned home yesterday after an overnight at my mother becourse my Daughter
had to visit a dentist speciallist and brought back 2/3 of my little teaser from last
bragging gloat and what I feared about the framed planes as a picture was right
they were glued on so fortunaly I had my jiigsaw with me so I cuold cut around them
now I just have to figur out how to get the rest of 
but among them there is a scewed rabbet with adjusteble mouth …yubiii
so more work to me ..me ..me…LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


When you get finished with them you can take a lot of pride in them. May you be happy in your work.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *fore plane, rabbit and 2 bead molding planes*
> 
> The day started with me preheating my shop with my kerosene heater. I fixed myself a tall cup of coffee and off I went. I could not wait to start on my [new to me] planes. I wanted to start on one of the 2 fore planes but I knew the time it would take to work on the iron. So I started on the rabbit skew plane.
> 
> ...


your right Dennis I am rushing. I wanted to go through them once and then fine tune each one. I have started honing the first fore plane and I am in to about 3 hours. The first burr is almost starting to form. I have almost shortened the iron on my guide twice. But I want that first bevel to be right.
helluvawreck i will be very proud. I have been holding 5 very nice pieces of curly maple just for this.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Try and fore finished, one fore more*

I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane. 








I couldn't help myself.








Now I cleared all that away and continued to hone on my fore plane iron. Its a Alex Mathieson & Sons Glasgow Scotland fore plane.








I have been working on the iron with a honing jig. I have about 4 hours with it on a diamond stone. I would polish the back with my worksharp 3000. Then I finished with 2 grades of arkansas stones and buffed with jewelers rouge and white compound on my drill press. I put it all back together and this was the first lick down a 2 by 4.








It was a little heavy. With some light manipulation of the iron. wala








I am very pleased and this plane needed very little tlc. She is going to do fine.








Now for fore #2. It has S. Ashton Sheffeild On the iron. The toe of the plane has a stamp " Guarantied English Beech " From what i can find it is round about 1870. The iron was from a tool maker and the plane was built elsewhere. But from the stamp I bet it also was produced in Great Britain. 








Now for some dis-assembly.








The iron is in to be expected condition. Dull and a little rust, plus some antique dark matter yet to be named without some csi equipment.
The wedge has a hefty crack.








Now I covered the sole of the plane with chalk to check flatness.








I sanded it 5 times front to back the 5 times back to front.








This is not that bad so I spent about ten more minutes sanding with 150 grit.








This to me for now is except-able and flat. I dont want to get any deeper into the sole until I get the iorn back in it and see how it shaves.








Now I removed the handle. The 2 screws were from to different time periods. One seems to be of a nickel substance and just a little smaller. There Was some separation of the bottom of the tote. It stayed in the bottom of the tenon. And I am not going to mess with it.








The strike button was some whittled pine someone had placed there some decades ago.








I used a piece of red oak and sanded it down with a taper for a snug fit.

















I then cut it proud and oh wait supper is ready. BYE


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Try and fore finished, one fore more*
> 
> I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane.
> 
> ...


You've been busy in a good way.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Try and fore finished, one fore more*
> 
> I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane.
> 
> ...


Good work Dave. Those are really nice planes. Wooden planes are so great to work with because of their light weight. It looks like you were having fun getting all those nice shavings. It sure beats popping bubble plastic wrap, lol.
I do like the ones with the slot to hold the iron and wedge. Better for clearing shavings and it looks better too.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Try and fore finished, one fore more*
> 
> I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane.
> 
> ...


it´s looking good from here 
isn´t it funny how we get carryed away when the tools start singing to us 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Try and fore finished, one fore more*
> 
> I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane.
> 
> ...


Swirt, Mike and Dennis you three are good friends. thanks guys


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Try and fore finished, one fore more*
> 
> I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane.
> 
> ...


Ah,yes! Sweet, paperthin curls. Not many things that beats the shhhhhtt, shhhhhht of a properly sharpened plane. Indeed, you spent time in a good way!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Try and fore finished, one fore more*
> 
> I got off a little early today and caught some shop time. I had a nice couple of chunks of ceder and wanted to try my try out. Its a Dwights and French & co. try plane.
> 
> ...


Thx Div


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

* SLOW DOWN DO IT RIGHT its only waited a 140 years*

I had been rushing with the refurbish and stopped took a step back and started over.
I was not happy with the wedge and started to look closer. It was not the original it is to long and to narrow. It also has a crack in a very bad place. My C A repair would have held for a while but I was optimistic of its durability with heavy use.









So a new wedge was in the near future. I have a lot of 5/4 red oak scrap. So I found a fairly straight grained piece. 









Tuning the angle.









I chose to make the new on a little wider and the same length of the old one. This would allow me to adjust.









The only power tool I used was my router table to place the grove for the iron screw.


















To lap the blade I had to really go deep. 








The iron is in fair condition. 








With the iron honed and wedge finished. I have dedicated this project to Chip. 
I then used some scotch bright and mineral spirits. I cleaned old paint stains and a whole lot of crud off. Oiled it with linseed oil. Placed the wedge and iron in and set it to tension. I want it to dry under tension.









It has S. Ashton Sheffeild On the iron. The toe of the plane has a stamp " Guaranteed English Beech " From what I can find it is round about 1870. The iron was from a independent tool maker and the plane was built elsewhere. But from the stamp I bet it also was produced in Great Britain. The initials F M are stamped on it.










Now check the fit. Not bad.




























That is the bulk of the refurb on this batch. I will be looking for a few more new [old] planes. Many lessons to learn. Please give any and all input you can. I do love the wealth of knowledge this site brings.
I memory of

Chip


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * SLOW DOWN DO IT RIGHT its only waited a 140 years*
> 
> I had been rushing with the refurbish and stopped took a step back and started over.
> I was not happy with the wedge and started to look closer. It was not the original it is to long and to narrow. It also has a crack in a very bad place. My C A repair would have held for a while but I was optimistic of its durability with heavy use.
> ...


nice refurb Superdav great blog
next time consider use real terpentine made from trees instead of mineral spirits 
to clean the wood with

have a nice weekend 
Dennis


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * SLOW DOWN DO IT RIGHT its only waited a 140 years*
> 
> I had been rushing with the refurbish and stopped took a step back and started over.
> I was not happy with the wedge and started to look closer. It was not the original it is to long and to narrow. It also has a crack in a very bad place. My C A repair would have held for a while but I was optimistic of its durability with heavy use.
> ...


Nicely done wedge Dave and it's nice to keep Chip alive in memory. I have some nice dry European Beech that I intend to make a plane out of. Very stable and hard wearing wood.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * SLOW DOWN DO IT RIGHT its only waited a 140 years*
> 
> I had been rushing with the refurbish and stopped took a step back and started over.
> I was not happy with the wedge and started to look closer. It was not the original it is to long and to narrow. It also has a crack in a very bad place. My C A repair would have held for a while but I was optimistic of its durability with heavy use.
> ...


Dennis the spirits I used are [green]. It is the color and consistency of milk. They are supposed to be biodegradable. I will try and find some turpentine. So its a better solvent for the old tools? Less damage?
Mike my choices were red oak, sapele, walnut and magnolia I chose the oak because it is hard and fairly stable. I have some nice tiger maple but it hasn't been cut yet and I think it would have been a little soft for wacking on with a hammer.
thanks guys


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * SLOW DOWN DO IT RIGHT its only waited a 140 years*
> 
> I had been rushing with the refurbish and stopped took a step back and started over.
> I was not happy with the wedge and started to look closer. It was not the original it is to long and to narrow. It also has a crack in a very bad place. My C A repair would have held for a while but I was optimistic of its durability with heavy use.
> ...


I havn´t invastigated the terpintine yet so much and 
the different type of things something I have to catch up 
just a thing I read way back about using natural stuff instead of all the chemical things
that its produced from other stuff 
I think a small part of the line that got to hang in there 
was something like what comes from a tree is good for wood furniture bla bla bla 
you know the drill some parts hang in there but why just skates over your head 
and I hate when an article like that has done so and I can´t remember where I did read it

take care
Dennis


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> * SLOW DOWN DO IT RIGHT its only waited a 140 years*
> 
> I had been rushing with the refurbish and stopped took a step back and started over.
> I was not happy with the wedge and started to look closer. It was not the original it is to long and to narrow. It also has a crack in a very bad place. My C A repair would have held for a while but I was optimistic of its durability with heavy use.
> ...


Nice looking plane.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*A smoother and a plow plane*

Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!









The tool maker markings are *New York Tool Co*. From what I can find out The New York Tool Co. is a name used buy Aurborn Tool Co. From 1864 to 1893. This is the part I love. They were made at the Aurborn Correctional Institute by inmates.

Now there were 3 tool stamp changes. If the O is the same size as the C in CO. that was the first set. If the O is lower case and raised that would be during the middle years. If the O is underlined that would be in the latter years. This one is lower cased and raised.

Now the second plane I found is a moving fillister. 1860-1907







This one was a little harder to get the history on.









The tool marking states Pryke & Palmer upper Thames ste9, the ste9 is not very legible.









It is missing a part and has had some old repairs done to it. It was late and I had been out most of the day but could not resist taking them out to the shop and doing at least some dis-assembly. 









The fillister broke down with very little trouble.









I do not have one of the wedges, and it looks like someone had replaced the iron wedge with one that is way to thin.








The main body is still in good shape. I the depth adjusmet is working great.
Now the smother.









Its is in great condition. It looks hardly used.









I think I might spend a little more time one this tonight.









The mouth is still tight.









The irons are in great shape also.









I spent some time flattening and honing the iron and chip breaker.









A little chalk on the sole and let us see how flat it is.









The first 5 swipes across some 150 grit show that between the mouth and heal it is a little high.
The iron bedding is in fair shape and only gets a little scraping tonight.









the first shavings after assembly.









I had put camber in the blade but still wanted to see what it would do on some figured wood.









A test on some tiger maple.









Not so bad. Its 1:00 am, bed time. good night

thanks for viewing


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A smoother and a plow plane*
> 
> Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
> First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!
> ...


hey hey hey not so fast building the collection …....collecter ….... LOL :--)))

nice smoother and restore on it  my it serve you well in many years

to mee it seems it isn´t a moving arm Fillistre but a wedge-arm plow (plough) plane 
sorry you had got the wrong name

source : John M. Whelan´s book the wooden plane it´s history,form and fuction Site 106,108,111

and what you call a iron wedge is a part of the skate and is sopursed to be so thin
if you look at the cuting iron there is a groove on the back on it and that has to be placed on the skate
to controll the iron possition so don´t do anything to the skate or the back of the iron
you can get irons in different wideness

take care 
Dennis


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A smoother and a plow plane*
> 
> Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
> First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!
> ...


Great work Dave and I'm really impressed with those tiger maple shavings. Keep it up and you will soon need an airport to store all those antique 'planes'


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A smoother and a plow plane*
> 
> Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
> First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!
> ...


Thanks Dennis thats how I learn. You helping me name it will help in my research on setup and use.
Mike that maple is the cut offs I have from the box I am having to build for all these planes. Or hangar. 
Thanks guys I can count on yall.
Now what is this?









I found it in an antique shop. Its a hatchet of some sort. But its purpose eludes me.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A smoother and a plow plane*
> 
> Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
> First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!
> ...


I enjoyed your visit. I'm glad to see you found something on your trip besides my shop and my terrible coffee. We got to running our mouths so much that I forgot something before you left. Usually when someone comes to my shop I try to pick out a nice large chunk of mahogany for them, share in the good fortune I recon you'd say. You understand, I told you the story behind all that wood.
Maybe next time.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A smoother and a plow plane*
> 
> Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
> First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!
> ...


that …that …that….well a very interressting war - axe ;-O

throw it out to the freindly L J wulf´s in the tool forum and say …..NAME THIS TOOL and use 

take care
Dennis

Edit: with pictures from two more sides


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A smoother and a plow plane*
> 
> Today was a *great* day I had paid a visit to a fellow l j [william]. We had a great time. Then I picked up two more planes. First I will show some pictures and then give a little provenance of the history of the planes. Or as much as I can.
> First is a smother. Sorry about the pic's, it seems I loose about 30% of the right side of every picture!
> ...


William we will bury that subject. (inside joke) William My wife and I had a wonderful time. And you gave me plenty. I have picked a place for the wonderful vacuum system. And my grandson (as soon as he can walk) will be using the Day Duck Step-stool to brush his teeth. My wife also informs me that your children were well behaved and very polite. That comes from proper upbringing. 
Dennis it got me to. I would go for war hammer but the handle looks a tad modern. Did Natchez Indians have lathes?
Thanks guys


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

* Wedged plow plane*

Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
Need a wedge built.









I used navel jelly, brasso, mill file and sandpaper to clean most of the steel and brass hardware.









I oiled it with linseed oil. On all the parts and pieces. Put her back together and this is what I got.


















Now for a test run. This is the first time with me and this type of plane.









Not bad a little heavy on the shaving. But its joinery not finish planing.









This is only pine I need to test it on something a little harder.









Ok I have been at this journey for 19th century planes for a little under a month. I have purchased 13 different planes for about $300.00. I could not help but take inventory of what I have so far.









Now I am on a mission for a good set of matched tongue and groove.

Sorry guys dont mean to sound like I am bragging but I am so proud of what I have gotten done with your help. And the really good users I have now. Thanks for reading


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Great looking plough plane. Fast and quiet way to make grooves.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


I am impressed. I have seen some plane collections. Yours looks to me like museum pieces though. 
You came to my shop the other day and pulled out that GIANT wooden plane. I had only seen one like that once before. It is hung in an old hardware store called Haden's Hardware here in town. I asked the guy working there once if I could get a better look at it (it's hung up so high). He told me he'd love to show me but that the owner would fire him if he touched it.
I didn't tell you then, I wanted to pick it up and look it over real good when you laid that one on my table. I was kind of scared of it though. I could just imagine me picking it up and (with my luck) something falling off of it, hitting the floor, and busting in to millions of pieces. I know that sounds silly, but with my ignorance of hand planes, I figured it was best for me to leave it alone.
One day though, I want to get down to your shop and see you actually use a couple of these old gems.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Thanks swirt, I mutilated a 2 by 6 and man was it fun.

Hey William you wait till you come to my shop. I am going to put them in you hands and let you go to town. I have them because I like the low noise they produce. I got them to be used. I do respect the history. But I really think, the men 150 or so years ago would rather see them used for there intent. There are plenty in museums. Most every one I find I have to repair it. That is part of what I like.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Uh, I don't think so. I failed to tell you why I don't invest the money into hand planes. I don't because they would be only a collection. I am fascinated with them because of the history of them. However, I did buy one once upon a time. Had a guy I know check it over real good. He sharpened the blade for me so sharp I could have shaved with it. So I went back to my shop with all the excitement you could imagine and started some pine. Soft enough wood. 
It took very little time for my back to tell me that hand planes are definately not for me.
It's the same reason I don't use scrapers, draw knives, and anything else that requires constant pushing or pulling towards or away from me. It does a number on my back. 
I do like seeing others use them though.
Something else I enjoy is seeing someone like you take these that are 100+ years old and bring them back to life instead of hanging them on a wall.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Ok I got it we will epoxy an extension cord into one. You hold it and I'll plug it in and we will see what happens.
jk
You know I did not even think of your back. Dude sorry!
Do you remember stuckies? They had a corncob with a power cord hanging out of it. The package said Electric a$% Wiper. My dad bought 10 of em and gave out for Christmas. My pops was nuts. His son to.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Hey superdav,This is the rechargeable model. and you can talk on it once…...before you use it










Not near as nice as your plane.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Now that just made my night. I remembered stuckeys. I did not remember the electric wipers though.
That is hilarious.
And I can see the need for the rechargeable ones. I don't remember too many outhouses with electricity.
Can you still buy them?
We do a gag gift on someone every year for Chirstmas. SuperD gave me the perfect idea for next years gag gift.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


You have seen the putter with the 100 foot cord I made for a customer. That was before cell phones and rechargeable batteries.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Thats funny stuff. Take 2 plug-ins and place a small antenna on the end of each one. Remote control extension cord.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


that plow came out pretty good superdav 
congrat´s both with that one but allso with all the others 
now you need to make a real copy of the old toolchest to have them in
like seatons toolchest
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/art/seatonChest/Part1/sChest1.asp

by the way don´t never expect anything than rough schavings from a plowplane 
and some tear oiut in the bottom of the groove , becourse it can´t be different do to
the way they are build

and if you use it across the grain then make sawcuts first or score with a knife
the score can help too a long the grain to start with

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Thanks Dennis you are always a great help


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Wow, Dennis. That Seaton Chest is a beautiful build. Do we see one of these in your future?


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


 Rand you deffently have high hope´s for me …lol and thank´s 
but you have right about it , I have come back to this chest several times during the last
three years and somehow just can´t get it out of my head , I know Swartz made one in a way
and has made his anarcist toolchest more or less out from that 
and I do admire the toolcollection in it too ….maybee thats the reason the chest tickle my hand 
but I have 4-6 other cabinets and chests I admire too and what it is going to bee on the long lane 
I realy don´t know yet it seems to be a hard decission as to shoose what kind of a bench 
people want to build 
but for wooden planes a chest will proppebly be the right thing to do

take care
Dennis


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Dennis, 
Keep in mind that if you feel you lack the skill to do this build, then get the cheapest wood around; pallets or crates, or whatever and practice on these until you you get there. You are not going to learn any younger, unless you have a time machine to go back to your teenage years. I lack skills in woodworking, so I do mock ups in cheap pine or oak before I ruin the exotic woods.lol I know you are limited as to the wood available. 
Plan A…Let me check and see how much to send you enough pine to practice on. If I can swing it, I'll do it. 
If David Nelson did it with the old tools, then you should be set to tackle a couple of practice chests with your restored treasures. 
Plan B…Do yo have a pay pal account? It might be cheaper to buy to wood there and just send the funds. This would get you more wood and longer pieces as well.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Rand :
don´t worry you can bett I will hunt down pine like a hurrycane in a near future 
to pratice on with my used new to me tools 
and I migt as well building some cheapeeeeee box´s for the tools to stay in and ready
to be moved with out geting damaged under the movement when we get the house sold
and still have easy access to them….well I better might contact the police when the time come
and say there will be a haveyload transport coming thrugh…..move over …..LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Dennis my skills are of yet to be able to build such a wonderful box. For now my intent is to make a 2.5 foot square dove tailed box to set on my wall at a slight angle. I want to get to the point where I can veneer with hide glue, toothing planes and veneer hammers. The old school way. What I like about it is that you can reverse a mistake.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Dave, be sure to blog this box. Seeing to "old" ways is most interesting. It is exciting to me, anyway, to see these wonderful old tools getting back in the game. They deserve to be shown off on the job. Best wishes. Rand


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Rand I will and have started. But ooooh life is taking up a lot of my time. [3 teenage girls]. It is physics project time I think I gata help build a rube goldberg. Yaaaaahhh not….


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Piker! Try 4 daughters going through divorce at the same time. Only REAL men can handle that. lol


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


superdav 
its just a dovetailed box that´s all with small dovetailed box´s inside…..LOL

the hideglue tthecnic you can learn from Autumn fanstasic blogserie of her box last year 
strings you can buy or made yourself Bob Simons make had just made a vidio blog serie about it

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


I bow to you Rand, mine are just doing the what boyfriend this week. No wedding rings involved. You would think there was. The way they carry on when they breakup.
Dennis I am no familiar with Autumn's blog. But I will check it out. Thanks for the tips as always.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Just giving you a small picture of what you have to look forward to. lol I'll give you another hint….You never get them raised, they always come home. lol


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Yes Rand and they wont come home alone. I love grand babies. Look at that future woodworker over to the left. Logan is his name.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


I think they know how to work the heart strings with the grand babies. lol They seem to know that we will feed the grand kids and while we are distracted, they can belly up to the table as well.lol I think we have a couple of strangers in the kitchen lately too.lol


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Yep, you look up from your plate and a strange young man is sitting next to you. Asking "pass the gravy." You ask"who are you and why are you sitting at my table?"


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Makes you wish you had a whole bushel basket of those old planes to get lost in, huh?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Ya'll are scaring me. When my boys bring home girlfriends, they are usually scared of me and tend to stay out of my line of sight. My daughter is only seventeen now and I can handle her boyfriends right now with no problems. The only one she ever had that was bold to cross me spouted off a few disrespectful words to my daughter right before he wanted to shake my hand and present himself as my daughter's boyfriend. I only smiled and said, "not till you get a haircut and come back with some manners". He was better next time I saw him. I wonder if it had something to do with the fact that I was cleaning my guns?


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


If his manners slip you can always tie him to a tree and convince him you need to practice for a William Tell exhibition coming up. And drooling over a well oiled .44 mag helps to.lol And to keep this in the woodworking realm, take him in the shop and measure him for a pine box. he he he


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


William and Rand you two are killing me before time …..all this repair work on the laptop
it just cost me a screen and a keybord to drink coffee at the same time I readed your comments

take care
Dennis


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Just for Dennis…....WARNING--READING THIS THREAD MAY BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR COMPUTER!

OK Dennis, did this fix everything? Please send all bills to superdav….he started this thing. lol


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Welding Rod. 
.44 Mag my @$$. 
There's nothing like looking down the barrel of a WWII era 7.62×54
With the bayonet extended.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Whoa wait a minute I go to work and you guys are playing William Tell with pistols, drowned a laptop and I get the bill. I love you guys to. That will teach me to go out and buy an old plane.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


I wont yall to know I have read this to my wife and she is still laughing. I have also been told that when the oldest brings the new boyfriend to the house, I am to go get my tape measure and take his height and width. For what , a pine box. Now I will have to learn double bevel dovetails. Thanks guys


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Have an old style casket already built. When boyfriends come over, make sure you're in sight of them pulling in the drive. Be prepared for the presentation. When they pull in the drive, be out there, with your handplane, and your under taker getup, doing the planing on the casket top. 
Here's what you say, in as low a voice as you can muster with a straight face.
"You're not over six feet are you son? We had to cut the feet off the last one." 
You won't have to worry about him after that. I'll bet he won't even make it to the front door to ring the doorbell.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


And I just realized that we have completely highjacked this thread and turned it into a comedy bit.
Sorry Dave.
Nice plane though.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Dave you are welcome. Always happy to keep the troops chuckling while refurbishing those beautiful old planes. I knew you wouldn't mind helping that poor old Viking out either. lol You sure are a great guy. lol As for the double bevel dovetails, I knew you needed the practice. Make a nice coffin though, about 4 feet long and explain how you have to cut his legs off to make him fit. he he he


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


But wait this last guy was wider than he was tall what do I do now?


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Dave, remember to adapt and overcome. Show him a skinny casket and ask him how he thinks he will fit in it. lol


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


David what are we going to do with those two one two minuts at work 
and they just save the day for everyone if they readed this thread 

and don´t bee scared of the compounded cut and dovetails as I remember they used nails in the old days
for this kind of job , it aint cheaper but deffently faster and you are gonna need the speed … LOL
and the last one wuold proppebly be the easyest to make one to ….a square box….LOL

Rand this time I did remebered to drink before opening the thread..LOL
maybee I shuold start making a maschinistshop so I am ready to make a little 50mm bom bom when the time
come when my little princess start to say to her mum we are going to be one more for dinner to night 
or shuold I go for a small Gatling type just for the experience …hmm something to think about

take care
Dennis


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Dennis, The Gatlin gun ends things to fast, to much lead out there. Just one shot at a time will make him look like a deer running from a pack of wolves. You will be amazed at the speed he will have. You might even sharpen and polish that old Viking broad sword and while stropping it on a leather strop, you might casually ask him if he knows the meaning of emasculate.lol We should explain how we expect our Princess to become his Queen.lol


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


OK I am going to read other blogs for a little while. I cant stop laughing. Dennis, William and Rand. This hasn't made my day its made my week. Great humor and good friends. Through in a little woodwork and you have William Tell standing in a coffin holding a Gatling gun dressed in an undertaker outfit. Oh there is a plane in there somewhere. 
Thx guys


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Oh No you don't. You started this and you have to see it to the finish. lol


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


You forgot the short guy skinny guy going in the coffin.
He was a big wide boy, but in order for him to fit you had to cut off them legs and use the plane to take some off the sides to make him short and skinny enough to fit in the coffin.
You could have made a bigger coffin, but who wants to waste good wood on boys that are after our daughters. 
*
Good thing I don't have to buld a coffin. I live over here in hill country. Where there's hills, there's hollows.
**
Now if one of Dave's daughter's boyfriends comes up missing and there's fresh turned dirt in his back yard, I don't know none of you guys.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


I don´t have to polish and sharpen the old sword …. no rust on that old freind ….always ready for a raid 
but maybee at that time a little praticsh cuold be durable since I at the moment train with the much
lighter brother to the samurai sword the one in wood …..the police don´t like metaltraining oppesite
to the road ….werd people with there silly lawbook :-(....LOL …. (i have a little dispute with a guy who
has treaten both me and my fammely several times) even thuogh its killing my back to train again I just have to be prepared

take care
Dennis


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


That's a really great collection of planes Dave, and nicely restored. I'm glad you will be using them too. I understand that folks who just collect them are trying to keep them safe to preserve a part of our woodworking culture, but I always feel that they are way more interesting when actually being used. When you see actual shavings come streaming out it really gives you a better idea of the ingenuity and skill of our forefathers.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Awesome collection of planes. You have done a great job restoring all of them. I'm jealous, however, of the number of old planes you have. Looks like I have some catching up to do.

Thanks for sharing


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> * Wedged plow plane*
> 
> Had a small amount of time today to work on my plow plane.
> Need a wedge built.
> ...


Thanks Mike and Kent. I have seen so many in museums. I saw one once that had no less than 50,000 on inventory. It was near a ship building community. I want to learn the arts of our forefathers. I would like to pass these things down. You can read how they were used but until you do it, the lessons you learn on posture, honing, being able to read grain ect… are lost. imho
I aint done yet. There are many more to restore…


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*The making of a simple Plain TOTE*

OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.

I have purchased some s4s 4/4 tiger maple. I ripped them down to 5" wide by 2 1/2' long. Now let us see how that refurbed coffin plane works out.



























The vendor I purchase my wood from is in need to sharpen his planer blades. The maple does have some interlocking grain. So I broke out the card scraper.









I wanted to see the thickness of the shavings my coffin smother was producing.









Some were at .002 to .0025 but the majority were at .0015. I am very pleased. That provided a very smooth finish.









I am going to build a simple dovetailed box with the ability to be able to remove the bottom. Kind of like drawer construction when you build the carcass of the drawer and slide the bottom in. So let the dovetails begin.

















I choose a simple layout. Man I really need to get a 1/8 chisel.









I am still getting used to my dozuki saw. But there not to bad.









well dinner is ready and before I started this I had to clean up after my kids physics project. A rube Goldberg. That gave me a headache.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *The making of a simple Plain TOTE*
> 
> OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.
> 
> ...


know you are talking , a ruberg and shavings not bad …. lol

and doing it in tigermarble I wuold say you are ready for the chest my freind 
better start now than regret it later 

thank´s for sharing 
take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *The making of a simple Plain TOTE*
> 
> OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.
> 
> ...


Dennis I have that page saved and when its time. That will be the one I build.
thanks


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *The making of a simple Plain TOTE*
> 
> OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.
> 
> ...


So are we going to get a video of the Goldberg project in action?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *The making of a simple Plain TOTE*
> 
> OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.
> 
> ...


sure William. The kids took a vid I think.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *The making of a simple Plain TOTE*
> 
> OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.
> 
> ...


Your coffin plane did great work on that tiger maple Dave, and your dovetails are looking good too. Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *The making of a simple Plain TOTE*
> 
> OK I am running out of shelf space and am in need of storing my planes with a better method. I will attempt to build a plane tote that I can change its configuration as my plane habit grows.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike, the wife has been sick not much time in shop. But I smell spring. Yaaaaa


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*A suprize from a fellow LJ*

My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.


















This is one of the largest box frames I have dovetailed by hand.









Pairing and rasping to clear the saw marks. The dozuki might not have much kerf but my hands wander a little while I saw. Not being able to see well doesn't help either.









Then the mail came. What a box with From Rand To Dave. And in the box A letter.









And next to the letter was a neat little brass hammer.









Now I want you to see what I have been beating on my planes with. First, for the wedge adjustment a one inch square piece of pine with a dowel in it, second an old tack hammer that is broke in 2 places. I make do.









Now Rand had gave me a heads up to watch the mail. When I got the hammer I named it Silk. For some very bad jokes a blog or two ago over son in laws. Silk stands for son in law killer









I had to give it a new home near my planes.









Getting late need to go in and tend to the wife and dinner. Thanks for reading.


----------



## dufus7441 (Jul 15, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


nice hammer, hope the wife is feeling better.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Thanks dufus7441, I like the hammer to


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


I've always banged the plane against my forehead. Guess that explains the headaches. Never knew I was suppose to use a nice hammer like that.

Great hammer and great friends. Life is good.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


ChunkyC I was doing it with the plane turned the wrong way. That would explain the flat-spot on my forehead. Ready for finish
thx dude


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


A really nice looking hammer and a great gift. 
Hope your wife is on the mend.


----------



## Chelios (Jan 2, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


That was a nice addition to your shop. Now you are tapping with style. Smooth as SILK


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Dave,
I hope your wife is feeling better. 
Seeing all these wonderful old planes receiving all the loving care just cried for the right size tool to make them happy. 
I'm looking forward to the day my dovetails look as beautiful as yours. 
My best wishes to you and your family, Rand


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Swirt, Chellos and you, plane hammer elf thanks. oh those aint my dovetails, I got 2 little dovetail elves that come in at night. You want em? I'll loan em to ya. They work for hammers. Thats why I have none and have to rely on friends like you for my supply. It aint illegal to be a hammer dealer in Mississippi as long you don't have more than 2 in your possession.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


A great gift from a fellow LJ. A nice looking hammer.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Thank you Karson


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


KOOL!! Did you make that hammer Rand?


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


a very nice gesture of you Rand 
to send such a fine brass hammer to David , and I presume you made it your self too
its not a bad looking one att all , a nich tuch with the pattern on the head 
but now you have taken the step to make tools yourself its only gets worse 
and before you know it ….. no more wood working ….only tool fabrication on the program….LOL

Superdav : I´ll bett it will serve you well , but I better not show your name explanation to my daughter….LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Supercool hammer. I like your vise, too.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Thank you Topamax, Dennis, Cessna and Bertha. All is good when you have friends
Dennis how is her health?


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Sorry guys, store bought, American made with Tennessee hickory handle. Perfect for old wooden jewels. Only 3 ounces of brass so you can be delicate with the antiques. I liked the knurling myself. I had to find something Mafe can't duplicate. lol And knurling it was. lol


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


David silke is allright for now no pain at the moment, we just have to see it on the long time scale.
and it goes fair with the braceless at the moment too

thank´s for asking 

Rand : Mads has both a wood lathe and a small metallathe so I thing he has or at least can
get a knurling tool pretty easy …..sorry Rand … ;-)
take care
Dennis


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


Why are woodworkers so generous and sharing? Is it the wood? or are they just a special breed of people? I don't know the answers to these questions, but it makes me proud to be a woodworker. I also like the idea of sneaking out to the shop while the wife sleeps. I hope she is better now.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


What they said: great story. Thanks for sharing.

Your dovetails look great, and … *Rand* ... your generosity is a wonderful trait 

If I had a hammer,
I'd hammer in the morning,
I'd hammer in the evening,
All over this land.
I'd hammer out danger
I'd hammer out a warning
I'd hammer out love between my brothers and my sisters
All over this land.

-Peter, Paul, & Mary ;-)


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


OK who sent the hammer elves back over here was it Dennis or Mike or Neil? My hammer was on the other side of the shop. JK
Thanks guys. I have another story about giving. I went to go see William [fellow lj]. And with my visit he sent me home with a handmade child's step-stool. With ducks on the side. He also gave me a very nice dust collector that I will Install it and blog about it. 
Thank you fellow woodworkers.
How many of you give your stuff away? I bet is a lot of you.
Remember Jesus was a carpenter.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A suprize from a fellow LJ*
> 
> My wife has been sick the last few days, so I stayed home from work to tend to her. Every now and then I would go out to the shop and get a little done while she slept. I had started back on the dovetails and am near finished.
> 
> ...


no not me David I still have my Gremling´s , the last two bags I bought of shop suplice 
is missing :-(

I think you just said you know why woodworkers are so freindly …. )
what a nice gift you got from William 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *

First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two. 
Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
Now the plane till is coming together.









Dry fit went alone fairly well.









So I went inside and asked the MS's to help on the glue up.










Make sure its square.









I have chosen to dye it with water based dye. I used terracotta and a dark brown.









Let it dry a bit and sanded the raised wood.








This maple does have some interesting grain. I have used teak oil and will wait a week or so for it to dry.








So in the meantime I started on another project. 









And while plaining on this 8 foot board. *catastrophe* 
I let my fore plain drop to the floor. Everything stoped and I had to repair my tote. Ouch.









But with the great help of my shop elves ( nephew Lane) She was repaired. Again!









Maybe I'll Get the till build and will have no more major problems. William you can have Murphy back.


----------



## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


OH NOOOOOO, don't drop planes, that's not good. I think I've got something for you too….. I'll try and remember to bring it Saturday for you. Looking forward to the meet up and glad to see someone else remaking old tools.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


NO! NO! NO!
I don't want Murphy back. You can keep the bad luck down your way.
I love the grain on that maple.


----------



## Chips (Mar 27, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


As a LJ and a member of Pearl River Woodcarvers I am looking forward to meeting the rest of you. I visited William today and he told me about the LJ meeting planned.

I would also like to invite any and all LJ close to Jackson, MS to stopin and introduce yourself. Additional information can be found at this site. www.pearlriverwoodcarvers.org


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Kttm and Wiliiam, Its been one of those days. I thought I did my good deeds for the day. It started with me and my nephews building birdhouses. Then Dave wanted some time to himself. But no, Murphy came over and *catastrophe* 
And William the 3d of that maple. No picture will do it justice. Wait till I stain it, shellac it then topcoat it. 2 days latter it will be dusty shop furniture.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Thanks Chips! Saturday it is.


----------



## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Murphy is unusually busy on St. Patrick's day. After all, he's Irish too!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


I hear ya BigTiny. I'm Irish does that count?


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


aaauuuuch that was a picture I cuold have been with out 
are you sure you can´t fix the old tote …. the new look like a man
that has been in a darkroom the last copple of years

murphy you can ceep but if you can spare a few shop elves 

take care
Dennis


----------



## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Let's see, W H E E L E R, that must be Irish, right?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Dennis, I know its awful. Its rough cut. It still needs a final sanding and finishing. The old tote could have been doweled from the bottom but the base was rotten. Part of it stayed in the mortise and appeared to have been glued with modern glue. I will save it and place it with the original wedge. I'm starting to get spare parts for wooden planes.

I'm sure you can find Silke some pointed shoes and a funny hat. She would be the perfect shop elf. 
saddletramp I'm a little lost, But it don't take much for me to be a little lost.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


) she has done that more than a few times over the last 5 years 
and every time with a suprice to me …..... always make us laugh so much that
the rest of the weekend = no more shoptime , but dang they have been funny weekends =
monday you have to stay in bed becourse your stomack hurts so much from cramp in the mucles… 
from laughing …...

take care
Dennis


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


I love the curly maple, Dave. Nice save on the tote. Good thing you have the elves handy. Have a great Saturday at the get together. You are taking the elves, right?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Thanks Rand, it made me sick. When she fell it was in slow motion with me screaming noooooooo. I do love maple to. But I hate finishing. It should come out just put some blond shellac and cherry gel coat on it. Then I rubbed it out with some 0000 steel wool and teak oil.



























No the elves went home. Thank God they were wearing me out. Yep tomorrow should be a good day. And buy the way that sure is one handy hammer


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


That is looking better every time I see it. That grain is really starting to show more than it was to begin with. Since I seen this wood in person and was impressed with it's beauty, that's saying something.
I'm looking forward to tomorrow. I'm getting away two Saturdays in a row. I don't remember doing that in years. I washed up the blazer today. My boys helped me take the top off. I capped off the headers. It's too loud to my ears with the headers open and no top. I'm planning on getting there around ten or shortly thereafter. Give me a call when you get there. KTMM says he'll probably be around noonish with his arrival. Chips, of course, will be there before all of us since he's part of that group. He visited yesterday. He'll have his jewelry box there. You have GOT to see this thing in person. It is amazing. So I hope to see ya'll tomorrow.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Yep I had to go outside a little while ago and put all my plains in my till. I remember doing this with my hotwheels and a cardboard box. And yes tomorrow should be a lot of fun. You know your blog made the emag.


----------



## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


superdav wrote: "saddletramp I'm a little lost, But it don't take much for me to be a little lost."

You'll have to forgive me, I have a weird sense of humor. Just prior to my post the subject matter had taken a bend toward being Irish on St Paddys day. I was making a comment on my last name which is actually English in origin.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Got ya. My last name is Bardin. Its Irish for growing barley in the glen. barley glen = bardin or so they tell me


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


SuperD, "You know your blog made the emag" 
You are now the third person to tell me this. The problem is, it seems that I did not recieve the emag this time. That or I accidentally deleted it without reading it. I know I usually read it. I have had a lot going on lately though. Either way, could someone please PM me a link or something to where I can go read this edition?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Pm me you email address and I'll forward it to you


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Nice work on the til Dave. Too bad about the handle, but the new one looks good if a little pale. Maybe some strong tea would give it an appropriate color.

Your unfortunate experience reminds of a story I read written by a long time English professional woodworker. He said that on his first day as an apprentice in a wood shop with about 20 journeymen carpenters, he dropped a chisel. He said the normally noisy shop became immediately quiet as soon as his chisel hit the floor. Good thing I didn't work there!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Mike I bet he spent the rest of the day sharpening chisels. 
Thanks for the complement on the tote and till. I needed it then so I rough cut it. It still needs some tender love and care, and maybe some tea.
Buy the way I do like your method of hanging your marking gauges. And grats on the new one.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Very nice joinery!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Work on the till and a tote catastrophe *
> 
> First and foremost. This Saturday at our Agriculture Museum there will be a meeting of the Pearl River Woodcarvers guild. I do believe 4 lj's will be there showing support. That in itself will be fun. And I might even find an old gouge or two.
> Another cool thing I had a fellow LJ, William, stoped buy this week. He brought me an old #5 fluted craftsman plane. That wiil make another great refurb and user.
> ...


Thank You Smitty


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*

My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
Sandusky Tool Co. 
Sandusky, Ohio 
1869-1926 
Tool Types 
Axes, Clamps, hammers, Hoes, Metal Planes, Picks, Plane Irons, Screwdrivers, Shaves

Aside from planes, this company may have solely been a distributor for some items. Patented planes include one by Cyrus Kinney in 1855, two by Ellis H. Morris on 8 November 1870 and 21 March 1871, and one by Harmon Vandbuskirk on 30 November 1869. They were bought by American Fork & Hoe Co. in 1926. 
Identifying Marks 
SANDUSKY TOOL CO/OHIO (in straight lines or scrolled double curve); SANDUSKY TOOL CO/SANDUSKY OHIO (name curved); OGONTZ TOOL CO.

Marketed by Hibbard, Spencer and Bartlett Hardware companies.

They also contracted labor from a local penitentiary. The plane could have been made by an inmate. From the tool catalogs I have found Sandusky didn't make wooden style planes. They subed it out to Ogontz who contracted the prison system to make them. This is the second plane I have acquired that was produced this way.
When I recieved the plane, the wedge had a small chip and the iron screw was missing.

















The body was in almost perfect condition.








I went to the hardware store and purchased a 5/16 coarse thread slotted screw and washer.









The Iron had a bit of bow to it but the bow was in the upper end. A bit of hammer action cured this.









So after straightening the iron and cutting of the excess of the screw.









Now to the sole. My normal method is a piece of glass and some 120 grit.









But after a few passes the sole was not in good condition. Also someone had ran a toothing plane at some point across it.









So the mother of invention called and I needed some coarse paper. I cut 2 sanding belts with the grit of 40 and 80.









That did the trick. I don't like getting that coarse with a plane but it was needed.








Then it was time for some attention to the body. A good rub down with turpentine and then some linseed oil. 









The grain of the beach really came out.









I spent about 30 minutes on the iron trying to take off no telling how many years of corrosion.








Its Friday and getting late so I will place the new jack on my till and go inside. I will get to finishing the iron this weekend.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


The prison labor making these makes for an interesting story. While I'm not into handplanes, you know I like history behind things. I wonder if any of these prisoners ever secretly left thier mark somewhere to identify themselves as the maker of such tools. Just a thought that popped in my head.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Is the entire body made of beach? One photo you show the bottom of it and I swear the grain and color looks an awful lot like some of the light mahogany I have. Of course, I don't know what beach normally looks like. I was just wondering.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Its all beach from heal to toe and tote to mouth. William the age makes for powder when you sand on it. The plane is so starved for fluid. When I placed turpentine on it, the plane soaked it up almost before I could rub it in. If you look at the till it is the 4'th from the left. The other planes have had about 3 or 4 oil treatments and look much shinier. The process I showed took about 2 and a half hours. Now the iron work starts. It will take about 4 hours to get it where I want it. The point I am making it is easier to work wood over working iron. Next big project is two metal planes and one very large saw. Thats is going to be a lot of elbow grease. But I have a 28' joiner coming in. Then my till will be complete. Not. You can never have enough planes. Its an addiction. And I got it bad. It seems I spend more time tweakin tools than I do making projects.


----------



## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


That's a sweeeeet collection you're building, keep going. Us woodworkers need to save all of those planes from the wall of Cracker Barrel and put them back to work. Plus I love your tote.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Thank you Kenn. You know I can't hardly eat in that place. Cause I miss my mouth. Cant seam to stop lookin up


----------



## greengarage (Oct 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Interesting blog post Superdav. I too find myself staring at the walls at Cracker Barrel. I wish I had a huge fireplace with the iron kettle swing in deal and a huge hearth like they have. Food isn't bad either. I grew up in OH and spent at least a few weekends at Cedar Point Amusement park in Sandusky OH so that's what drew me to your post. My wife grew up around Mansfield OH which is where the prison is where they filmed Shawshank Redemption. Bit off topic but I also need to get my 5th post so I'll be able to send a message to a fellow LJ. Cheers


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Very interesting greengarage. Thanks for the information.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


I'm glad all these fine old planes are in your hands Dave. I like the idea that they are being used and not just sitting on a shelf somewhere. That doesn't mean that I don't respect collectors who are trying to save these old planes from just disappearing, but it's just better when they can still do what they were built for.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Thank you Mike I do enjoy getting these ole guys working again. Most of them have the owners name stamped in them I wonder at what point did they become unused and put up for sale. Kind of sad but I would wager that the owners are glad to see them used again.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


now i´m is just a hair from being glad to see your growing collection of working planes 
and to turn green of envy ….you are way ahead of me now on having planes that sing again… LOL

they deffently looks good in the till 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Thanks Dennis, good to hear from you. I know your very busy. Anyone that has to do a project in the living room and then clean up before Mom gets home. Is indeed a busy man. You will catch up.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


its funny how 2 x deviding a sheed in two can turn out to bee a hole project
taking three - four hours …. LOL

I hope I can get some of my two weeks vacation in the basement and not have to
spend all the time on DIY fixing on the house and the garden after this long winther 
it has taking me alot longer than I expected to 1/4 restore the tools but what is make me continue
is both the itch that I get from you ,Dan and many more who posting restored/refurbed tools
and the fact that in the near future …. lol .. I hope mine will be finished in one big wave of tools
and flood the shop and force me to make some toolbox/cabinets to them

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Dennis I truly can not wait to see the masterpiece you will build. Spring is here and I to have been gardening. I do love to see new life in anything that can be refurbished. From electron killing devices to hand tools. Dan has a jump on use wit his planes. He had posted though, he was working on them all winter. He sure can make old look new again.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


yah his tools is to drool over but so is yours 
we both haw an idea how much handwork and swett he has put in to them … LOL
one day … maybee I will try his approach and try to make a shinny old tool just for the chanlange of it 
but it will take me 3-6 month just to look at it and try put me self together to make the try ….LOL

but don´t hold your breath on the masterpiece …remember I´m still just a newbie with a dream to
make my first shavings …............nearly 

take care
Dennis


----------



## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Late to the party, but enjoying the info.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Sandusky jack plane off of ebay*
> 
> My latest find from eBay came today. It is a Ogontz #13 jack Plane. Sandusky Tool co. is on the iron. First a little provenance on the plane.
> Sandusky Tool Co.
> ...


Sandra that is what its here for. So when I forget how I did something I can go back a look.
Glad you came by. I hoped it helped.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*

Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.








The iron had a heavy camber to it. But with some honing.









There is a tiny bit of damage to the corners but I had removed a lot of material and the damage will be removed with future sharpening.










The first chips on the edge of a 2/4.









Not to bad.









I had to get a piece of walnut and give it a try.
before









after









I am pleased with the outcome. Not bad for $22.00 plus shipping. To me that is the worst part of eBay is the shipping cost.
Thanks William for the Walnut.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Sweet - nice job of reviving this cool old tool. I am just soaking up the info, because I am aquiring a few old planes here and there and someday want to make them sing again. I find it particularly tricky to get the old wood planes adjusted correctly.

Thanks Dave.

Jeff


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Looking good. That walnut looks a lot smoother than what I have coming out the tail end of my electric planer. I wish my back would handle it. You'd have me buying up hand planes too.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


JL7 its a learning curve and I hope I wont make to bad of a mistake. Logans Cabinet shop has one of the best blogs about wooden planes. Thanks for the comments.
Yep It might but tell that to the *large * blister on my pinkie. That took a good 15 min. But I like the workout I am getting. Another but. But it is not hot yet. I love the way that walnut planes. What I dont like is the color it turns my skin. Thanks again William.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Great result Dave. Nice thin shavings and a flat walnut board. The blade came out amazingly well and sure seems to do the business. You must have a plane for every occasion by now.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike. I still have another joiner coming. Then I have a couple of metal bodies to attack. Its nice to be able to grab a preset sharp plane and let her rip. I did sleep late this morning though. To much planing yesterday, kind of sore But that is what it is about. People pay good money to go to the gym.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Hey Dave - thanks the link to Logans site - that is good info for me…...gonna give the old wood blaock plane a test drive tonight…..

Jeff


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


You got it Jeff any time.
Are you ready for some over load on reading.
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/WoodHowTo/INDEXHowTo.htm
http://villagecarpenterlinks.blogspot.com/2009/02/blogshandtools-only.html
http://lumberjocks.com/WayneC/blog/734
http://www.rexmill.com/
http://oldtoolheaven.com/
http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Nice job. Any issues flatting the back after you flattened the blade? What technique did you use to flatten the back?


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Holy Handtool Overload Batman…....that's alot of links (full of other links)......I may have to quit my day job…..appreciate it man…....

I did play with the block plane tonight - mostly just figuring out how to adjust the iron. It's almost a miracle how easy it is to adjust if you know he tricks compared to "not even close" to having a clue…..

Jeff


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


WayneC if you look at the first picture you can see the change from steel to iron right about at the slot for the chip breaker screw. The bend in the blade was most likely from the plane hitting the floor on the iron. Best guess. The bend was not in the steel. So with some very light taps with my ball peen it went back to true. Should have used a mallet. Lesson learned. The worst part of flatting the back was from decades of rust. It still has some slight issues on the corners. But I felt I had taken off enough steel and I will get it with more honing. Note in the second picture you can see a small chip to the right. It was massive when I started and really I was tired of elbow action. This iron was very thin and no two of this period are the same. Its is kind of like a forensics game dissecting the construction of each plane.
As far as technique I use a honing jig.








I use a coarse stone and go until I reach the desired shape, hopefully a large burr has formed. The I use Arkansas oil stones (soft and hard) and just remove the burr, go one stone finer and go through the steps. I finish with a back bevel, strop, then jewelers rouge. 
Yep, Jeff makes for good reading for me when the wife has dozed off. To me Jeff every plane has its little idiosyncrasies. How tight do you make the cap screw so you can make an adjustment.
Its got to be flat. But with a block plane, LN tolerances are not that necessary. You would not believe what keeping a candle stick next to the bench will do for the sole of that plane. If you can get it to make fine shavings on pine end grain, you got it.
I have and use both metal and wood planes. I just like the feel of wood on wood. Thanks guys for posting

Easier to refurb to…


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


I'm looking to referb some wood planes, have a jack and a jointer on the bench ready to go. Hopefully I will get to them later this year. Broke my leg last month and it will be a while before I'm able to walk again.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


So sorry WayneC, please when you feel better and start your refurbish. Post you progress. I do love to see new life in old tools.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave. Will do on the progress posts. I used to blog quite a bit.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


yeah with those fraightrates you wuold expect it had come with shaves and straight boards
to have enoff for a year ….............right 

looks like you got yourself a workhorse there Congrat´s

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


You got that right Dennis. And she is a good one. Thanks as always.


----------



## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


More good info. Thanks Dave.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Finishing of the Sandusky plane iron*
> 
> Well I spent over 3 hours getting the iron and chip breaker sharp and square and wow. I had left them in this state Friday.
> 
> ...


Thank you!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Stanley 71*

I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane. 
Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.









And here is a bit of a break down when I received it.




































After break down. Sorry no pictures of the process. I wiped everything down with acetone and a wire brush. I took my roto tool and got the rust out of all the nooks and cracks. The original finish was only 60 percent there. I am wanting a good clean user thus I painted it with metallic metal paint. Usually I leave most of my planes as is and just oil them , not this time. I scraped the knobs and then teak oiled them. I used amber shellac with an airbrush to apply about 5 coats. Then sharpened the cutter and reassembled. The plane is a type 6 from 1909 to 1915.I wanted the paint to completely cover the base all the way to the edges. So the bottom got shot to. I will take some wet or dry 400 and remove it from the sole after a few days of the paint curing. A few pictures.






























































Sorry for the clipped pictures. I had to use photo bucket.


----------



## Cornductor (Feb 5, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Holy Crap that thing looks good!! Sweet Job man.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Hey Dave - that turned out sweet - I can't believe it could have looked that good in 1915…......nicely done.

Jeff


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


I dont know how well it works, but it looks amazing. Well done, after it cures and you clean the sole, you will have to let us know how it works. Great rescue.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Brandon thank you very much.
Ahh Jeff just think in 3 more years it will be an antique. thanks dude
ShaneA I am wondering about the performance to. And we will post some test trials. Thought about just a thin wood bottom.


----------



## gawthrrw (Sep 13, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Great job!! I'm on the hunt for one of these also.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Thank you gawthrrw, good luck on your hunt. Ebay is not what it used to be.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


I was curious if the two holes in the center of the body are just for what you suggest, using a thin piece of wood on it? This would help keep it looking purdy.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Wow! That's a great restoration. I don't know if you are familiar with the show, but I'd say it is comparable to the work done at "Rick's Restorations" on "American Restorations" on the History Channel.


----------



## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Great job Dave, and a looker again ..


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


great looking plane. It looks new. My 71 is one of the few I DIDN'T need to restore. I hope it works asa well as it looks, and I'm sure it will.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Beautiful, and beautifully done.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


William they are for a fence or to mount a wood sole. Thanks.
Lenny that has to be one of the nicest things said to me, thank you.
Thank you very much racerglen
Kind words Don W, thank you
Long time no see reck and thank you….

Now I want a #271 but they are harder to get at a fair price.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


nice job Dave 

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Hello Dennis, and thank you


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Simply outstanding, I love what you've done to that plane!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Well thank you Smitty, I do all my outstanding work in the rain


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


You guys asked to see it here ya go
Stanley 71


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


OH MY GOD!
I didn't realize you had videos on youtube. Now I have you, stumpy, and steve to keep up with. Ya'll keep this up and my wife is never going to get me to watch TV with her again. Oh well, she'll just have to learn to like wood working videos. 
Nope, can't do that. She watches you guys too much and she'll be in the shop taking over.

I love the music with this video too. Who is that? Makes me want to head on back to the shop tonight just so I can listen to Boudreaux Thibodeaux.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


By the way, you forgot your DVD at my shop the other day. You may have lost it. The boys asked me today could they watch it next time I have the DVD player out at the shop. If it teaches them more about woodworking I think it'll be going to good use. It's a wood working basics video anyway. I think you might know most of the basics.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


New camera hehehehehehe. Do you know how long it take to get crap edited and post to you tube. OH MY GOD, just shoot me. The fan on my laptop is screaming. It took me 2 hours just for that 2 min. Thanks William and if I lost the dvd to your kids edumackation. Oh well.
The music has to come from a non copyrighted source. Or they scream foul ball.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


I'll get the DVD to you eventually. After they watch it all, I promise you they'll be back to the Lone Ranger on the DVD player and will still be taking 6×6" planks of wood and just seeing how many nails they can drive in it before it splits open. Give them time. They'll get with the program eventually.
I am sneaking some wood related education in on them. 
A few days ago they decided to have a contest between themselves to see who could drive the most nails into the same size piece of wood before it broke. I caught them before they started and changed things up on them. Each of them wound up with a different species of wood to hammer into, cottonwood, pine, oak, and birch plywood. After that, I explained to them why each one split in the order that they did. It had nothing to do with their "nail driving abilities". They learned something about wood grain and different hardnesses of wood. I messed up though. Now they like plywood better than solid wood, because it doesn't split as easy. Looks like I got some retraining to do.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


You have to find ways to keep them occupied. And if nail driving is the flavor for the day then so be it. Lessons well learned. Now my dad would have made me pull all those nails and straighten them back out


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Heeeey! That's an idea to keep them busy tomorrow. 
"Hey kids! I'm out of nails. Bring me all those ya'll used up. An by the way, I need them neat and straight. By the way, here's a needle file. I want all the heads to look new. Clean em up why don't ya?"


----------



## drfunk (Jan 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


WOW! I usually go out of my way to buy japanned planes because the nickle plating can look so awful when it is beat. That paint looks fantastic! Mind telling us the brand?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


I had bought it for picture frames. I am to lazy to gold or silver leaf anything. Ace Metallic spray paint, the number in the upper right hand corner is 17047. It says for arts and crafts and leaves an antique finish. I think I shot 3 coats and let it set up for a week. 
thanks
Dave


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Man, this makes it tempting to spray the nickled parts on the #62… Beautiful work, Dave. As always!


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


i might have to try that paint on one of my #18 blocks.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Thanks Dr, Smitty and Don.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Super,
Looking at your "rehabestoration" and using the plane, ALMOST makes me want to start using hand tools!!!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Cool it is very addictive.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Hey Dave - Just got my #71 in the mail today from eBay, along with a #152 spokeshave. Paid $30 for the pair and they will both clean up nice…..but not sure they will ever look as nice as yours… 

The #71 has the same patent date as yours (on the right side) but says "made in USA" on the left side….I suppose they are a few years apart huh? Also , I have the set screw for the open throat, but missing the shaft and guide…..not clear if that a big deal or not?? I see in your video you don't use it for the bowties. Is that used along with a fence for carving dado's?

Came with a 1/4 chisel, is that the standard?

Bottom line - after seeing your post - I knew I wanted one of these bad boys…....thanks. Will post pictures later…still in the shop.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Jeff the dating page for the 71
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/routers/stanley/stanley_71.html
Looks as yours is a Type 9.
The guide is for the 1/4 inch straight and v blades. You are correct in your reasoning. To me it gets in the way. 
The standard is the 1/2.
Jeff this is the best way to get the bottom of a dado or rabbet flat. A router table will leave the bottom wavy. You will be amazed at how uneven it is. You can sweeten up a tenon with no problem. Other than a standard bench plane, this is my favorite plane. I want a 271. but those little jokers are a bit harder to come up with.
And A 152, Nice!
There is also a fence that screws to the bottom.
Stock parts from Stanley
http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/planes-routerplanes.html
If I find some parts I will head them your way.
You did excellent on the price.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Dave - thanks for the dating page - you are right, I got the Type 9…...

I already know what you're saying about dado's and rabbet's…they are never flat…I am cleaning it up now and it is looking good (to me…)

I had no idea that Stanley is still selling parts for these!?

I picked up a Lie-Nielson 271 (closed throat) at the hand tool event a few months ago and it's sweet (and a bit spendy….) but like you said, things ain't flat.

The 152, I'm a bit confused on. It has a flat bottom and can't find much info about this. Seems there is a rounded version as well. The #151 was flat, I think. I am guessing it came out both ways? This one will clean up nice also…...

Always appreciate the help man!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 71*
> 
> I won a bid on eBay for a Stanley 71 for $19.02 plus shipping. I was very pleased for the chance to own such a fine plane.
> Here is the picture that was posted on eBay.
> ...


Jeff here is a pretty good look at the 151
http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/
Stock irons
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=PLANES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=12-350&SDesc=Spokeshave+-+55mm
I have one coming in from eBay as well I am interested in seeing what I get.
I got these for $19.40









I bet that new little LN is a beauty!
My research is not in depth on shaves yet. You know if you own a good shave you will need a good shave horse
Jeff any time you need something I will do my best to help.
Anytime!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*

Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one.. 
There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
Now today I have an old sargent plane that I found at an antique shop. I had cleaned it up rather quickly and tuned the iron. I used it for about a month and have found myself grabbing it first. So the need to put a real cleaning and tuning came about. I broke the plane down tied the main pieces together with copper wire. I was in the mist of doing a glue up. You know the drill , glue wait, glue wait….... I then grabbed a plastic container, fixed it up with a good solid method for attaching leads to. Then I went looking for a power supply. Most of the articles tell you to use a car battery charger. The new style charger is designed to charge a car battery. The technology is smart enough to tell if there is a load attached to it. So the new ones will not even come on unless you place a battery in the loop. I happen to have a good old 12 volt power supply that will crank out about 15 amps if needed. Leftovers from working in the oil fields. I placed the plane in the plastic bin and turned the power on. She started the process instantly.And the cost was nothing. I used materials that were on hand. To me that is the beauty of it. I will take some pictures of the finished plane a post when it is done.
Here is a video of the cooking process, its about a minute and a half.


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Interesting process..fun to watch the bubbles in the video. I've been using Evaporust with good results. But its not cheap.


----------



## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Electrolysis is cheaper but the initial cost is more.
Once you got it set up, it's the way to go.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Thanks you swirt. This was one of those I have got to find something to do while the glue dries. I wasn't going to run up to the store and grab some chemicals. Note, nearest store with Evaporust 30 miles. I had everything on hand. I have used this process a few times before and find it easy and noncorrosive. Thanks for the read.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


hhhopks, that would be true if you had to buy all the materials from the start. Power supply's are everywhere. I have seen a guy using a computer power supply, bucket, and washing soda.
Thank you for the comments


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Right now, it's evaporust. I do plan to try electolysis 'someday' though. So until then 'prefered' is 'only.'


----------



## wolflrv (Nov 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I'm a die-hard Evaporust fan…LOL! I'm quite sure I'd blow myself up if I tried the electrolysis method…but I feel fairly safe working with the Evaporust. I was always lousy in science class…


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Got ya Smitty, as always thank you.
wolflrv my kids mascot is a wolf and when I read that all I could picture was the school mascot on fire running. That is funny stuff. Really its not that dangerous. You get more flammable vapor when you use denatured alcohol to rub something down.
Its just water and soda. A basic electrolytic. Just add electricity and don't think about the Hindenburg 
BOOM JK


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I'm an evapo-rust guy too. I've tried Electrolysis and agree it works, but I've got the new style battery charger, so until I fuss with a computer power cell or find an older charger, its evapo-rust for me.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Thank you Don. Looks like the Evapro is in the lead. To me if I was doing a saw that would be the way to go. The wife would look at me funny with an old saw in the bathtub. That would be the only place I could fully submerge it.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I agree. I've been married a long long time, but that may be the end. If you scroll about half way down you can on this blog you can see what I did. I made a tray out of aluminum flashing. I actually made it for cleaning rifles before bluing, but its found its second life.

I recommend you keep the evapo-rust out of the bath tub, but thats just me.

By the way, my charger will work, it just seems to take longer. I assume its not putting out full amperage. It may be ok for battery's, but sucks for Electrolysis.


----------



## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


My first choice is Evaporust too. The biggest reason is it won't touch paint.

My last restoration was a Homecraft bandsaw. The stand was rather rusty. I built a PVC tube to soak the legs of the stand. When I pulled the first leg out of the tube, I couldn't believe my eyes - Evaporust had stripped all the rust from the leg and left the original paint! The leg looked almost new except for the feet which looked like they had been standing in water for a long time. I still primed and painted the legs but I was impressed with the initial job by Evaporust!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


nice cooking Dave , like your use of electrolytic capacitors 
one thing though , from what I remembering having read (don´t trust my brain .. lol )
I think you are cooking with too much power and simply blow the rust of instead of
letting the rust be rebuild as I have read shuold be possiple with electrolysis by using 
alot lower Volt and amps to do it with and with the size of the plane I think it was under a ½volt 
and 100milli amp and then let it cook over several days instead 
I think it was mentioned in a blog Wayne C made about electrolysis down in the comments … (not sure
if it was in that blog .. just 90% ) 

when I come around a labritory power supply I deffently will try the elctrolysis metode myself 
since even the Citrus Acid seems to be a little too agressive for some iron and have hard time 
removing some of the very old rust that seems to have made a protecting layer over the surface
speciel in the holes we call pitts in the ironsurface 
and the electrolysis metode shuold be able to take care of them by rebuildding the metal 
but I have to look into it alot more before I´m 100% sure 

take care
Dennis


----------



## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Another vote for Evaporust. It's simple to use and safe. Best place to buy is at Tractor Supply for about $20 per gallon. You can also get it at Harbor freight but their regular price is almost $30 though they do put it on sale once in a while.

You can use it over and over and I occasionally run mine though a coffee filter and get rid of the residue. When it no good you can pour it down the drain.


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I'm a great believer in electrolytic de-rusting. 
I've been using it for years in repairing pieces of antique engines and have never used more than a 10 amp battery charger…. My 2-10-50 was $30 from a hardware store in North Dakota about 13 years ago.
I use washing soda, (Arm and Hammer). This isn't soap or detergent, it's more of an enhancement to the detergent. It comes in a yellow-orange box from the detergent accessory section of the grocery store for about $4.
You can also use baking soda but you need to put it in a 305° oven for a few hours to let it release the extra oxygen molecule in the chain.

One thing to be careful of….. electrolytic de-rusting creates hydrogen gas. Those are the bubbles you see on the positive end. There isn't much, but if it gets concentrated in a small space you may find that you have removed the rust and a whole bunch of facial parts, especially if you are a smoker or light your way with a candle.

Here are some pictures of a couple of things I have done. One is a really old Plasticut rasp and another is 1940's Irwin Adjustable auger bit. Gallery
I also did a Sargent 414 plane with this method but never took any before pictures.

Just as a bit of information, an old fellow I know… (he probably makes the oldest one here look like a New Years Baby), has de-rusted entire engine blocks, including pistons, crankshafts and miscellaneous parts all at once with this same method.

As a final note, using the washing soda it never wears out. You just keep adding more water. Even if you want to change it, it's biodegradable so you can pour it on your garden. I would also experiment with the amount of soda used. with low amperage use more soda to create a better circuit. I started out using about 2 tablespoons full per gallon of water and now load it until the emulsion can't hold anymore.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Don a great idea for large items. Good blog. Now try to place a battery in line and see if your reaction is better. Two electrodes on the power supply side may help.
~
EEngineer Yes I agree with trying to leave as much of the original as possible. Most of mine are at a state of needing total stripping. The electrolysis method almost always requires you to remove the paint. 
~
Dennis it is an exact science. My power supply is adjustable by voltage. You can adjust the electrolytic mixture { amount of baking soda} that will adjust the current draw. I have found if you crank it up to much the copper will enter the iron of the plane.
~
Viking I did not realize it was that friendly. A great price a the tractor store. I will have to look at the data sheet and see what it is made out of. Reusable to.
~
Dallas a vote for this method, great. Some very nice refurbs in your link. I did not know you needed to cook the baking soda. So you have to cook the baking soda, do you wash the washing soda . Thanks for the recipe for ingredients. My mixture was about 2 tablespoons of soda uncooked per gallon. And I would like to see the tube and power supply used for a whole engine. WOW
~
Thank you very much for your time gentlemen. You are helping me to refine my process and look back at other methods.
May all your tools stay rust free. And as my wife tells me I have a mind like a steel trap, rusted shut


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I'm a shocker too


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Washing soda is Na2CO3 baking soda is NaHCO3. I misspoke before, you are not trying to get rid of the extra Oxygen but the extra hydrogen and carbon. Sorry about that.

Washing soda has a PH of 11, Baking Soda has a PH of 8.1. both are caustic, but never use washing soda for cooking.

In this instance we are trying to raise the alkalinity of the water to help transfer molecules of steel from your anode to your cathode.

Now, be warned…. I'm not a chemist or even well educated. I'm just repeating from my brothers and sisters who are very well educated. a Few actually graduated 8th grade and went on to obtain PHD's in science and engineering. Me? I failed 7th grade… twice.

Many different compounds and chemicals will work for de-rusting.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Looks like a great method Dave.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Thats two then Bertha, were still loosing.
~
Dallas your counting atoms. wow. I have a thirty year education. I went through the tenth grade 3 times
~
Hey Mike, it works fairly well. Looks like the other 2 methods are a keeper to.
~
Thank you for the responses guys.
I wonder if we went the other way and choose an acid instead of an alkaline? Would you have to reverse the polarity?


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Using an acid is how you do metal plating.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


HMMMMM, a silver plated plane. Where are those lemons and old dimes?


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Wow!
Great thread. I had planned to connect a charger to a car battery and then connect to the metal? Figured it might provide a buffer and protect the power supply from me..LOL if I am not careful?

Knew about the washing soda, and cooking baking soda but wondered how toxic it might be w cooking metal/ But the breakdown makes sense.

Is the aluminum so neutral that it does not interfere with the flow of electrons?

Thanks.


----------



## carlosponti (Sep 9, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


i like the evaporust method as well.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Doc sorry I am puzzled. Aluminum?
By the way Ron Eli's Doc Savage movies were some of my favorites.
~
Thanks for voting Joe
~
Thanks Guys


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


thought I saw that one of the posts was using an aluminum clad container for a large piece. wondered about stability allthough aluminum oxidises only a little.

The name fits in that I fill the dichotomy. Just don't jump out of old planes… LOl
Mostly my inner wolf battling with my civilized self. I work trying to make a living as a psychologist.

Had a delusion of being a professional woodworker, now have more real ameture expectations. LOL

anyway James Krenov called himself an ameture. Big shoes to fit into. LOL

Hey someone who knows who docSavage is. LOL


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I never saw the Doc Savage movies but I read all the old pulp mags I could get hold of. My brother and I use to order them from the back of Popular Mechanics.

Do you have a friend named Monk who has a pet pig named Habeas Corpus? LOL.

Aluminum will oxidize badly. That's kind of what the anodization on hard aluminum is.
When you go to weld it you clean it with a clean stainless steel brush and use Argon or another gas to keep a shielding gas around it otherwise it will oxidize so quickly the weld won't be strong.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Well there ya go Doc. Dallas answered the question.
Now who he is. I have been searching netflix, hulu and anybody else. Can't find the movies nowhere. I watched Tarzan every Saturday morning. 
Dallas how does a pig get the name of Habeas Corpus?


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Monk, one of Doc Savage's co-horts was also an attorney, though he was built like a gorilla. IIRC he saved the pig from the clutches of an evildoer.
He was named Habeas Corpus because because obviously, he was in possession of his own body. Wow, it's been at least 40 years since I thought of those spritely fellows!

Doc savage Movies Here

Books and other goodies


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Plane finished here are some pics.



























I left the paint on the sides of the sole for ease of maintenance.


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


+1 Dave!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Sweet! Thanks Dallas.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


looking good and it also make shaves ..... AAA+++ 

Dennis


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Noticed in one of the videos that the metal to draw from was from a metal shelf. Wondering what you and other folks use? Maybe it doesn't matter, but various metals have a different carbon hardness.

Does the process help in reversing pitting? Another issue would be galvanized sheet metal?

Re: the aluminum a post in the thread had identified clading a pan with aluminum , but that may just be for the jellies and pastes?

thanks,

partially ignorant LOL


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Thanks Dennis. You id did have the voltage up a bit to much. The copper plated the plane in the deep scratches. I wrote it of as rust protection.
`
Doc I use what we call down here ReBar. Its the stuff you get when you melt cars down. I wouldn't know the chemical makeup. I have seen some use angle iron. I would use any good piece of steel. I might try to use some tool steel and see what happens.
The process will not reverse pitting to the naked eye. Now I did have my voltage a little high and got some copper plating.
I am scared of galvanizing and aluminum. But I do know they add aluminum right at the end of the smelting in steel for rust prevention.
Thank you gentlemen 
I got an A+ cool


----------



## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


There should be a difference between using a DC power supply verses a battery charger.

A DC power supply should pretty much give you a constant voltage. Depending on the conductivity between the electrodes the current will vary. It pretty much stay this way during the entire electrolysis prcoess.

A typical car battery charger should follow a lead acid charge profile. Initial charge should be at a higher voltage and current. as you reach the end of charge cycle the voltage and current are lowered. To top off the charge the voltage is slight above the battery nominal full charge voltage and at a low current. I think removing rust from tools using electrolysis pretty much follows the same cycle, except that it takes a much longer time frame to "cook".

Any thoughts about which power source is better or there is no significant difference? Since the discussion earlier mention about higher/lower voltage being more optimal, I thought the power source should make a difference.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


hhhopks I believe you are right. The battery (smart charger) will adjust the voltage and current to the manufactures settings. And with the new ones you have a deep cycle, jump and a trickle that you cant control. I know from basic electronics, the load is going to pull what it wants and this is adjusted by the electrolytic mix. My power supply is adjustable from12 to 14.5 volts. With the transformer and capacitors it can provide as much current as needed. I like it because it is constant and steady. I received no damage to the plane but some copper plating did occur. I would have liked to have more anode in the solution to get a more even removal. I found I had to go and flip the plane 180 degrees around to try to get it even.
To me the power source does make a difference. I would use a (dumb) charger. 
Hope that helps and thank you for the comment.


----------



## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


There are quite a few entries on YouTube about removing rust with molasses. Has anyone tried this on tools?

Kindly,

Lee


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Lee I didn't know you could do that with pancake syrup. WOW. Thank you for showing me that. I wan to know the chemistry. 
Thanks again Lee


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


and before we know it Dave have build a stable to ceep his cows in 
so he can ordre a loadfull of molasses the bonus is he gets fresh milk everyday ….. ))))))

yes I have seen it Lee ... but I think I stay with Citric Acid or the Electrolysis way of doing it 
but if I lived on a farm its possiple I wuold try it ….not sure though

Dennis


----------



## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I have been using electrolysis for years and you do not need 10 or 15 amps. The recommended solution (1 tsp bakining soda per gallon of water) will not even draw an amp in a 5 gallon bucket, you can check with an ampmeter. I use one of the black plastic wall transformers thats rated at 1000 ma and it never even gets warm. Picked it up at a yard sale for a buck. On old file serves as an electrode


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Hey Dennis, I am in the country and just happen to have molasses in the cupboard. I think i might have to try. What ever the reaction its slow. 1-3 weeks.
Don you have proved its doesn't have to have a heavy duty power supply. Thats why car chargers work. I have seen a computer power supply do it.
Thanks Guys


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Dave, just my way of doing it, but I place my anodes all around the sides of the tub and connect them together with alligator clip jumpers. This way I don't have to keep turning the piece being de-rusted.

My next iteration of this thing will be to add anodes on the bottom of the tub and lay the work piece on top with a plastic mesh between them. This will probably, (fingers crossed), help get into the harder to reach places and the bottom.

One thing I've thought about was putting a small pump in the solution to keep the liquid agitated and move the effluent away from the cathode and keep it from building up on the bottom.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Very interesting thread. Don is saying that he has used a transformer? Not a wall charger? With a transformer you have alternating current and changing polarities? how does this facilitate the movement of electrons and de oxidation for the ferros oxide?

Dallus, what size pieces are you talking about? If the solution becomes neutralized due to use how much better is a circulation pump ( or does the solution just provide a vehicle for the chemical process?). Been 50 years sice my last chemistry class LOL


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I think Don is using a wall wart battery charger…. it looks like a transformer but changes from AC to DC.

My plan was to use a sheet of steel under the plastic mesh. Since the electrolysis occurs in the area of least resistance (or is it more resistance?), as one spot changes, another will become available.

To get a higher amp rating you can make a stronger solution, so Don's method will work. 
I have been using a 2/10/30-55a charger, and even with quadrupling the amount of washing soda I still draw only about 5 amps. 
I have a 24V 45A variable power supply that I might try just to see if I can cause a faster reaction.

The solution won't become neutralized because it's in solution. The only way to neutralize it is to add more water.
One nice thing about the washing soda is that it never weakens because it is just a carrier to allow a better circuit between the anode and cathode.

What does happen is that as the reaction takes place, lots of rusty sludge will build up in the bottom of the solution which lessens the effect on the piece being worked on. The pump with a filter would be used to circulate the solution and remove the junk.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Dallas yes great ideas. I have a tube not dedicated for this and those type of modifications are in the plans.I haven't thought of the pump.
~
Doc I think he is still using DC. Ac would reverse the process and make the project the anode.
~
Dallas I have old aquarium parts in the shop. New mods coming and a rusty plane waiting.
Thanks guys yall have my grey mater spinning around.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I got a bit bigger.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Great work on this Dave. Looks like a good metal working vise.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Thanks Mike! They dont build em like that anymore.


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Great Job Mike! Although, with all the feline population, (like my place), it seems you could use '*CAT*alytic conversion.

(I'm so ashamed of myself)


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


You have to have cats in the mix. It seems I always have one or two to work around.


----------



## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


We have 5 permanent resident cats here, and often have strays come to stay for awhile. We also have campers come in with their own herds.

I always wondered if I could create a new 'green' energy resource by rubbing cats together!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I have 3 new kittens. I cant go no where without company. I am scared of the back pasture. Horses!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


I've 26 rescue cats. not braging or complaining, just trying to care for them and do everything else. LOL!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Doc we have plenty around here. But god and mother nature thin them out. About once a year somebody leaves a box of kittens at our doorstep. We take them in. The black ones you see in the video were left at the mailbox. Safety Cat was found under a piece of metal in the side pasture. I try not to get attached. But you know how that goes.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Yep!


----------



## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


80 grit then 120 grit then 220 gri….. you get the idea. Blood sweat and tears … sooo much more satisfying, when all is said and done.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?*
> 
> Electrolysis has become my favorite way to clean an old tool. It is a chemical method but is one of the cleanest and greenest ways to do it. First I clean the dirt and debris off of the project. Then take a roto tool with a brush and loosen paint, grease and large rust deposits. I believe this method leaves as much of the original metal as possible. There are some fine articles on the subject. WWGOA , americanwoodworker , and a ton of or lj's have posted on the subject, here is just one..
> There are many ways to do this and if I was to use another I probably would choose citric acid. [thanks Dennis]
> ...


Thats the long gritty way exelectrician, but what ever it takes to get it done.
Thanks for commenting.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*An old stick n rabbet*

Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall. 




Well being the cheapskate that I am I can now make any size needed.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Golly!

That one lil tool did ALL THAT… in just a few passes!!

Awesome!

I wonder if Roy Underhill has one of those…?

That is one COOL TOOL!

Thank you!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Joe he does and did a show. That is the only way I know how to get the mortice's right. Thanks Joe.


----------



## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


I feel your pain, Superdav. ;-)

Unfortunately that required you to locate and purchase additional tools. (lol)

Great looking plane!

Post pictures when you complete them.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Thanks GrandpaLen you got it, I will. If I am going to pay for something old its going to be a tool.


----------



## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


13 wagons built (two 10'x4' and eleven 8'x4) all castered with five casters each on the shorties and six on the longies. Had good help from three other dads. One of which knows his way around tools as much as I do though not as good at creatively planning the construction (Ham you'll know what I mean). Lot of work done though.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Wow - very cool Dave - you make it look easy….....agree with Len - would like to see what becomes of this….....


----------



## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Oh yeah…also got to teach a High School Senoir how to use a chop saw and how to make and use a guide for cuttin plywood with a circ saw….that was the cool part


----------



## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Oopps wrong forum sorry Dave


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Jeff thanks, and I will post some of the production runs from this plane. I have another one with the same pattern that will get some attention, along with a few smaller planes What are the chances of coming across two of those planes? I see you changed your avatar. Nice. More to come, I have the whole week off. Lots of shop time. 
Rob are you OK?
Are we a bit click happy. You got to much sun at Disney world didn't you?
thanks Guys.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Oh, that is radicallg sweet! Congrats!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Thanks Smitty, brothers in arms we are.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


you have been on fire lately. Like a man driven by a means.

I love your videos.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


I came, I saw, I liked!

Nice video! I like your videos, simple & to the point. You let the action of the plane do all the talking.

Yeah I know, I will work on my irons when I return from vacation.

Thanks for sharing & the motivation.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Why thanks Don, that means a lot.
Hey Randy, we are going to get that ole plane working. You are going to get your $20 worth. Thanks


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Thanks Super. 
Nice video and interesting tool.
I'm glad I got to see it this past Saturday. 
I would have never thunked what it was without the explanation.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Yep pictures help, and a video will tell it all. Thanks William and you and you gang can come over anytime. Wait till I make something with it.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


I'm here for the book signing. Everybody line up…..

You did a super job on the rehab Dave. You'll be able to build those frames in no time…..


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Thanks Marty its all because of you. The center groove of the plane is how you adjust for your morticing chisel. I happen to have 2 a 3/8 and 1/4. The plane screwed down is for a 3/8. The other one I found is fixed at a 1/2. After I clean up a few more planes (about 5) I will give the picture frame a try.
I love this stuff and thanks again for helping me Marty.
My collection has about out grown my shelves and till.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Then it's time to build a new till?
Hey, nex time you come to River City, are you going to bring all your favorite chisels so I can make that pecan chisel block for you?
I like your shop enough that I want to be able to say I made something in it.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Yep and we are going to film that shop of your to.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


I think I'm good to say you are the plane magician superd.. very kool


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Oh no just a plane lover. I love the smell of maple in the morning. Syrup that is


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


What a great plane Dave! I'm looking forward to seeing some of those windows you will be making. It wasn't long ago that everybody wanted a router (you know, the old electric type) and now the trend is old hand planes. Before you know it we will be throwing rocks at each other again, lol. Loved the video.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Thank you Mike. The cave men had to have to have furniture to. I still use my table saw and router table. But I do like the hand plane. It gives it a real hand made feel. Thanks for the nice complements.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Dave what do the wooden screws do?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *An old stick n rabbet*
> 
> Here is an old plane that BoxCarMarty helped me find. It seems that the British used a whole bunch of planes to make a window sash. The Americans invented a version to cut the inner and outer groves at the same time.The outer is called the stick because of the sticking board used to make it. The inner grove is a rabbet that the glass would be set in then glazed. My wife has been on me to get her a few old windows so she could put pictures in them and hang em on the wall.
> 
> ...


Mauricio the plane will spread apart. You set the distance for the top rib of the molding. It needs to be set to the width of your mortice chisel. The largest mortice chisel I have is 3/8. The plane screwed all the way down Is 3/8. If I was going to use a 1/2 inch mortice I would loosen the screws and place shims of 1/8 in the middle of the plane, then tighten back down so it would be solid and consistent. If you spread the plane for wider stock you will have to use a larger chisel.
The plane on the right is fixed and is set up for 1 1/4 stock with a 1/2 mortice


















I hope that explains it.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Stanley 95 and holdfasts*

I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


----------



## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Nice fix and a great gesture.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Ah, so much fun you're having, Super. Congrats on having the patience with that #95, it was rewarded!  Good times!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Thank you Sam it was.
Smitty you were a great help with this. Another plane rescued. I love it.
I am having a lot of fun.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Glad I could help Dave. That's what friends are for. I figured those holdfasts would get a good workout down there on your bench…..


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Yep I even drug my girls out to the shop and showed them. The younger thought they were cool.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


very kool dave. some gr8 lookin stuff. luv the USA embossed on those holdfasts


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Me to Roger thanks.
Let us know when you unlock that project, we would all like to see it.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Cool stuff Dave…..make sure safety cat is clear of them holdfasts…..nice job on the plane, learned something new today…..and that video editing is right out of Hollywood…..


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Jeff thank you. I will keep safety cat away from the holdfasts. That plane was worth waiting for. The sidewalls of my rabbets are the worst part. Now I have a new way to neaten them up. 
Wait and see what I do while I am making the music box. 
I still don't have a good idea of the layout. 
It will come.
Thanks for your time.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


I'm seeing planes in action at your place that I didn't even know existed Dave. Great stuff. Very nice of Marty to have that screw made for you and also the holdfasts gift. Your high quality handwork is very inspiring (especially if I were younger).


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Thanks Mike. That plane came to me, I did not go looking for it.
I enjoy the handwork. Now I will use machines to do large jobs. I am thinking about a lunchbox planer. I have a huge stack of red oak that I don't want to have to true up by hand.
Right now my mind is set on an anvil. This is not an easy task and not spend a small fortune. It will come.
Thank you for your time Mike.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


very cool.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Sweet Harbor Freight pull saw! I have one of those!


----------



## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Mmmmmm love that plane, nice video thanks man


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Thanks Don as always.
Stumpy only you would find that. Its a good saw. Thanks
steliart thank you for the complement.


----------



## deleteme (Apr 7, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


It takes a community to raise a great plane….  Great score! Good to hear there's still a chance to score some premium tools these days.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Thanks Paul. All you have to do is wait and keep your eyes peeled
I am learning a lot with my new book.
One aspect we as westerners is we reference first off of a face that is flat then an edge that is brought to 90 degrees. The eastern thinking is a center line. So then it doesn't matter if your workpiece is imperfect.


----------



## deleteme (Apr 7, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


I've been learning that as well. I was pretty impressed how form is as important to sawing as force. I lightened up alittle on the grip of the saw on the pull stroke and started to notice that my cuts were getting closer to accurate. I'm also reading a booklet I was given in Japan about sharpening tools. So far, I've sharpened almost every tool I own…even the round ones! LOL! You never know when a tool just isn't perfectly round.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


I pictured something totally different when "Screw & holdfast" were mentioned in the same sentence!!! Let's just say it was not a PG thought.

Congrats on the new screw for the plane and the holdfasts, great gifts from Marty McFly.

Great video. The more I see of planes in action, the more I realize that I will need more. Not neccesarily every conceivable type, but a good variety none the less. You, my friend, are a BAD influence!!!!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Dave next time you need a sparepart maybee this place can help you

http://www.theoldtoolshed.co.uk/c/60/plane-parts

great to see No 95 back on track 

great gesture of BoxCarMarty to get the screw made and a very nice gift from him as well 
lucky bastard you are …. 

thanks for making us green again ...

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Paul Maybe you can give us westerners a lesson on eastern sharpening. I have my grandson all weekend, so I will be chasing a 2 year old around. After that bedtime for Pawpaw.

Randy you are one funny man. Every woodworker needs a few good bench planes. It can only improve your product.
Thank you for the comments.

Dennis there is another good site to add to our short list. Thank you for showing me that. And yes I waited a few months to get it back working. Dennis you made me laugh out loud. Thats what good friends are about. I love green tools.
Dennis I hope all is well and you are not working to hard. Give Silke a great big hug from the US.
Thank you guys for your time and friendship.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


thanks Dave I will give Silke the hug 
but not too well here ….. no job at the moment …. do to our politians …. Grrrrr
and just got a ticket to pay 2000 $ more in taxes …. AAAH you wuold say he is lucky 
more shoptime for him …..............nop hasn´t been in the shop the last 2 weeks :-( 
its hard to be unimployd with the demands they set to be able to get money from the state
even though I have payd for the insurence the last 33 years … :-(
well I hope it go in order again so at least I can get my old job back
in the meanwhile I have a few othe raplication out for some work that is like tailered to me 
hope I get to the talk round I´m way better to that than write the aplications

well …. the show must go on … should be possiple to sneak into the shop next week

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


Dennis I hope it works out for you to your needs.
You and I have been working all of our adult lives. When you need the help they make it impossible to get.
You are a good person and I believe in Karma. If you do good it will come back to you.
Keep us posted.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Stanley 95 and holdfasts*
> 
> I had bought a Stanley 95 and it was missing the cap screw. I searched the internet high and low to find one. There were none to be found. I had gone as far as New Zealand. Some of the LJ"S were taking screws from other style planes and letting me know if they would swap out. I couldn't even find those screws. Thanks Smitty. A fellow LJ offered to get his brother to make me one. I sent the cap and BoxCarMarty returned it with a wonderful screw. Thanks, now I have a working 95 and the threads remained stock. That will help it hold the value. I sharpened the iron and gave it a spin.
> Oh there was something else in the box as well…........


thanks I will


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*

As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer. 
The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
Please ask questions, or comment. That is how I learn.
Thank you for your time.
A short Video


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Ha - good one….pure and simple, you are just showing off now! I think all my planes are defective, casue they don't make curls like that….....safety cat is looking good, still has all the limbs!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


SuperCoolDave should be your name!

Very nice!

Using the film display layout was COOL too… nice effect!

Nice cleaning procedure using the correct type of Turpentine, etc. Good to know.

When you tilted the close-up of the Breaker/Blade tip before tightening it down WORKED the best to see the spacing, etc. of the adjustment… lengthening the Tilting back & forth part of the scene would have made it a tad better… I had to rewind a tad and pause/play/pause/play to really see it good.

The Audio was better! I was still a little loud for me… BUT, it was more CLEAR than before… I turned it down a tad… But, YES! you did improve it a lot!

Great job!

Thank you.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Thanks Jeff. A sharp edge will do it every time.
Got to love the cat. But not while I am on the router table. Then I hate that cat
Joe thank you. Was the sound a bit better for you this time?
Thanks for the pointers, that's how I get better.
Thanks guys.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Good video.
I've heard of checking the sharpness of the iron by shaving your arm hair. I didn't notice that step in your video. Do you check the sharpness of the ion by trying to shave "Safety Cat"? I ask because I don't think that wood be very safe, for the cat or yourself!!!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Randy I did video myself shaving the hair off the top of my hand. But didn't put it in there.
Shaving the cat hmmmmmmm.
BRB I'll tell ya how it worked out.
here kitty kitty….................


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Dave… I edited my original post with my Audio comment that I forgot to do… Thank you for reminding me by asking!

Thanks again.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


thanks Joe!
Get your rasp yet?

~
thanks Randy, safety cat is running around with a reverse mo-hawk and I might bleed to death


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Haven't received it yet… probably mid week of next week… I'm sure it's on it's way from Florida to California!

Thank you for your help on that… 
If I hadn't found it, I was going to ask you if you wouldn't mind getting one & shipping it to me! LOL… BUT, I didn't have to do that! LOL


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


We could have worked that one out Joe. No problem.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


I knew we probably could have… But, I didn't want to, if I didn't have to…

I'm glad it worked out…


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Looks like your gettincreative with your video software. LOL


----------



## deleteme (Apr 7, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


2 Thumbs and 4 Paws up!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Thanks Doc, I am glad you enjoyed.
Paul that made me smile
Thanks guys.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


OMG, He does talk!!!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


just got a plane something like that says bailey on it picked it up at a yard sale for 5 bucks got it because i thought it looked cool didn't know they really used wooden ones, going to learn them a little more , got to get the sharping of them down a little more thou,everybody say that is the trick to really being able to use them not there yet, like the safety guy looks like hes really on the job, great video:>)


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Hey there's Marty. Every now and then. Glad you enjoyed.
~
Eddie wood planes have driven me into a mad rage. Of the three I have, even if they are setup almost the same. One might grab and the other two wont. If I can help you in anyway just let me know. If you have a Bailey that is all wood its a good one.
thanks for the comments Guys


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Nice work on the plane Super. I'm always impressed with your wooden bodied planes. 
The only ones like them I've seen in Vicksburg are hung on walls in several drug stores here, and Hayden's Hardware. I've asked about them, but they don't want noone even touching them. When I tell them I have a good friend who restores and uses old planes like their wall hangers, they look horrified. Then I just walk out with a smile on my face.

Your videos are looking more and more professional. I only have one critique to make. In a couple of spots, once it was real noticeable, I could hear the music and the talk radio in the background. In my very humbled opinion (don't even have video capabilities here) I think it would be best to provide one or the other, not both. 
Is there a way to mute the background noise when editing during times when there's music being played? Of course, this would be a nuisance too, because then we couldn't hear the part that's really music to our ears, the sound the tool makes when making those shavings.
I am not one to complain, you are doing a helluva lot better job than I could, but I personally would actually prefer no music at all in your videos. I think it's be better if you explained things in your own words while it's playing.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Thanks William that's what I am looking for. What you guys want to see and hear.
We will have to bounce up in your hardware store with a fist full of old planes. And ask them " these work, do yours?" 
I will compromise with you. No radio in the background. But I don't like to talk. Who knows you might get me started and I will never shutup.
Thanks WILLIAM!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


I know there are laws about what music you can use, but what about having the radio in the background?
Even without you talking, your videos would seem more like a visit to your shop if we just heard the radio going in the background without the other music.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


I don't know if those guys would even care Super. 
You and I do need to take a day though for me to carry you to a few places I know. I know you'd love to see some of the tools hanging on the walls of some businesses here in Vicksburg.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


William legally you can play up to 30 seconds of anything. Then after that. Well let just say I have had YouTube mute my whole video before. They said the music that was on my Mac that is part of the software that shipped with it for making videos was owned by Sony. Whatever.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


When it comes to music… which is nice, if you're going to do it…
BUT, it should NOT be the Star of the show…
... it should be somewhat subdued as background music. Not going off at FULL Blast.

I have heard the radio before… I thought it was a nice personal touch… but IT should be louder than the background music if you want it to be part of the show.

Only IMHO… worth only what you have paid me to say it… LOL


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


I doubt you have anything to learn from me about hand planes Dave, but I read something interesting awhile back about the soles on wooden planes. I haven't tried this myself.

I can't remember all the details, just the main idea, which is to remove a small amount of material on the sole between the heel and and mouth, just enough that the sole in that area wouldn't come in contact with the wood under planing.

The idea being to reduce friction while planing and also to make the periodic flattening of the sole quicker and easier.

I just wondered if you practiced that yourself or if you had an opinion about it?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Mike I don't. I do know the eastern planes are constructed that way. The friction part does interest me though. I have a heavy 26 in that will wear you out. Thanks Mike. Something to investigate.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


gr8 curls on comin outta there super! I'm a believer in the ole marker on the edge ordeal, cuz it's very ez to see what's goin on where you're grinding and honing. I'm really likin that s-l-o-w rpm on that grinder. I like your videos. Eff all the copywrite bull********************! (sorry for the explitive), but this legal krap pisses me off. We all listen to music, so why not be able to share what we like????


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


I agree Roger. I have thought about getting some of my friends that play to lay me a few tracks down. And sony can bite me Thanks Bud!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Nice video Dave and nice editing. How did you do the "Plan Mounted Camera" action towards the end?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Mauricio thank you very much. I held it in my paw and tried not to squeeze it to death.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


UH OH, were in trouble now. SuperD is going to have his own "Theme Song". My how possitive comments swell the head & inflate the EGO!!! Is there a SuperDav721 fan club? If not, can I be the founding member & president??? Can I, Can I, please!!!!


----------



## deleteme (Apr 7, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


The SuperDav and Safety Cat Show, StumpyNubs, and Steve Marin. Look out Lifetime…The boys are back! Till then…stand by for a message from his corporate sponsors. LOL!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


You are the perfect candidate Randy, I could think of no one better.
Paul you make me smile.
Glad you guys enjoyed.


----------



## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Wow i love that plane, very cool vid thx


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


Your welcome steliart, Thank you.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


nice refurbed plane Dave 

next time you sharpen the iron 
then use a little time on the chipbreaker making the rounded front of it looks mirrorshine 
why …. the more smooth the chipbreaker is the better …..
since it helps to get the chaves through the mouth a little easyer and faster
so you can use lesser force when planing 
though maybee just a tiny fraction …. but everything count in this case 
if you are going to have a workout allday long you will be glad for the the mirrorlook … 

thanks for sharing … enjoyd the vidio

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A Tune-up on a Fore Plane*
> 
> As most of you guys know I love my wood planes. I try to keep them in razor sharp condition at all times. They are a bit more needy than a metal plane. The sole doesn't rust but is made of wood and it has a tendency to move. I don't have any big projects sitting on the bench and had a half an afternoon. I grabbed one of my fore (some call it a jack) planes and tuned it up. You will first see the removal of the wedge. You can hit the plane on the top of the toe or heel. After the wedge removal I disassembled the iron. The chip breaker had some chips between it and the iron. That required to re-flatten the breaker. I also try to check the bottom face of the iron for flatness. They both were in need of attention. I do this on the worksharp. Once that is done then sharpening the iron on the Tormek. The plane needs a good cleaning and I do this with turpentine. I then reoiled the wood with BLO. Reassemble and test. I only hit the wedge with a wood mallet and the iron with a brass hammer.
> The fore plane is the first plane you go to for surfacing a board They are considered a coarse plane. I have 3 good ones and keep them at different levels of stock removal. It is not critical that the sole be absolutely flat. The object is to remove stock fast. The mouth can be pretty wide as well. After the fore you would use a tri or jointer plane. That would get you to flat and square. Those are considered medium planes. Then you would use your smoother to finish the surface. That would be considered your fine grade plane. IMHO
> ...


I agree Dennis, every little bit helps. Thanks for the tip. I will give it a shinning the next time in.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Irwin Auger Bits*

One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
This is what I got.




































The set was off a bit or two. It had a few extra of the same size. I scrounged around the shop and managed to come up with the missing ones the make the set completely Iwin. I then broke out the electrolysis bucket and cooked them a bit.



























I then tended to the box with a bit of BLo and some glue. The bits range from a #4 to #16. they were cooked then polished and sharpened.






















































What good are bits without a few drills and braces.


















And I have found a complete set of bits for my push drill. I am not telling what I paid for those. They were more than the drill









This has been fun. Thanks for your time.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Dave - that is a cool set. Nice job on the restoration….that box is way cool also…....you are building the arsenal!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


One bullet at a time. Thanks Jeff. Now it is starting to become bigger than my shop.


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Great stuff Dave! Looks like a wonderful find, enjoy!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Thanks, and I will.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...



*Dave** they look like new.that electrolysis works well. with the sharping and polish you got a new set.great save .i was wondering how good the electrolysis worked look like it works well. great job.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


what a great save dave

they look almost new

well done


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Nice.
You keep doing what you're doing and you'll definately need a much larger shop.
The one you have is nowhere near large enough for the "SuperDave's Living History Of Tools Museum".


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Eddie, David and William thanks guys.
Eddie the electrolysis has some issues. But it is the cheapest methods out there and does a good job.
They do look new David
William I am having to become inventive with storage.
I need to re-look at some of the ideas the Japanese have come up with.
thanks guys


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


The Bits look great. Nice addition to the "Arsenal".

How long does the electrolysis take?
How much/type of current/volts/amps?

I need to read up on the electrolysis process. Thanks for the motivation.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Nice job of using Electrolsis!

Sure cleaned up nice!

You did oil them down afterward… yes?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Well done Dave. They look as good as new. Enjoy.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Wow! I've been wanting to gang bits in the electrolysis tank. Now that I know it can be done, watch out!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Thanks Randy.
Overnight. I use a large dc power supply turned up to 14 volts. The supply will give all the current you want, the draw depends on the volume of metal you put in the tub and how strong your solution of electrolytic is. While it is running if you put your finger in it it feels like sticking your tongue to a 9 volt battery.
Thank you Joe.
Yes I did. I used motor oil on then trough the cleaning process. I then wiped them with mineral spirits and used a rag soaked in Tri-Flo.
Thanks Guys.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


That Tri-Flow stuff is really GOOD stuff!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


I always enjoy seeing what you have saved Dave. It's really a thrill to see those old bits get the respect they deserve. I also know you will actually use them, which will further restore their dignity. I hope you will show us what you do with the old drills and braces. Keep up the good work, we are all learning from you and being inspired at the same time.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


I've been wanting to gang bits in the electrolysis tank?

Nice set of bits there Bandit. Great comeback!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Sweeeet! Very nice work, congrats on the additions to the arsenal!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Oh yes, yes Dave! I would (and probably others), like to see a blog on your electrolysis "how-to" make one… ??? Looks very simple, but, what do ya need, and how it all goes together. I see it does a fine, fine job of bringin life back to those bits. Just like bringin Frankenstein to life, only better… Thnx in advance. Appreciate all your expertise.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Thanks Shane. Can you still get a new set?
Al I just took a long piece of copper and bound them as tight as I could. I had never done so many at once.
Thank you Mike. I enjoy bringing the tools back. I also enjoy taking some pictures back to the people I bought them from. They will look at the picture and then look at me mostly with a smile.
Thank ya Don. Wait till you see what I am fixing to cook Next. Its going to be *BIG!*
You know it Smitty. I bet you have a set of Stanley bits around your shop somewhere.
Roger there is a ton on the internet about this. I have seen a guy using 1/10 molasses and soaking car fenders and getting the rust off. You need some baking soda - washing powder and a dc power supply.
http://lumberjocks.com/superdav721/blog/27444
Thanks guys !


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


AAAH always a pleasure to see what le chef have aranged on the plate for dinner 
and I most say the cooking is well done 
but you don´t have enoff years back in you to wait for Michelin will understand and give you 
the stars 
back to the kitchen still dust to be cooked and chips to be served

thanks for sharing

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Gracefully written Dennis. Thank you for your time and I hope all is well for you and your lovely family.
As always thank you.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Thnx dave. Appreciate the link/s and info.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Running a *BIT* late getting here. Did I miss anything??? Bits look great Dave. Need to find a set of those for my drill press…..


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Irwin Auger Bits*
> 
> One after noon I had some time on my hands and took a little trip on my bike to one of my favorite antique shops. There was a almost complete set od Irwin auger bits in a boxed set. I had to wait a few days and went back with $30 and brought it home.
> This is what I got.
> ...


Well Marty I will be on the lookout. Another one will come around.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*

This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
Cassy Clark and CO.
The firm is known to exist from 1864 to 1893. George Casey reorganized the firm of Casey, Clark and Company as a joint stock company in 1864, under the firm name of Auburn Tool Company, capitalized at $700, 000. The 1865 New York State Census noted the firm as a manufacturer of plane, plane irons, and skates.
During 1864-65 and from 1874-77 the company used prison labor at the Auburn Prison The 1865 NY census reported that 50 men were employed, producing 35,000 planes worth $35,000, 25,000 dozen plane irons worth $12,000 and 30,000 pairs of ice skates worth $45,000 utilizing steam power.

Clover Leaf Irons
Reynolds & Co., manufacturers of steel cultivator teeth and workers in all kinds of sheet metal, are located on Washington Street near Barber's mills. The business was established in 1861, on Mechanic Street, near the Auburn City Mills, by Asa R. Reynolds and his sons Samuel P., Mark and Napoleon.

There is a bit of history on the plane and iron manufacture.
I intended to make this a user. The body was cracked bad. The plane needed a lot of care. The iron had been chipped and put on a grinder in a poor fashion.
I broke the plane down and assessed my approach to the repair and rebuilding of it.
I used super glue gel to repair the body. Electrolysis to derust the irons and a worksharp 300, tormek combination to true up the iron and chip breaker.
I still need to finish the iron and square the bottom. After I test it I will assess if I need to replace the bottom. Part 2 is on its way. 
Thank you for your time.
Check out my new blog www.chiselandforge.com an eBay $10 traditional smoother
My video


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Very GOOD!

Nice buy!

Going to be fun to see how it looks when you're done…

Thank you.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Thanks Joe. As always.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Great video!

I am interested to see how the super glue holds up. I have a similar coffin smoother with a split on the side I need to restore.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Cool video Dave - even got to use the new anvil…....sweet.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Stumps and Jeff thanks guys.
Stumpy the stress of the wedge is where it split. We will see.


----------



## TedW (May 6, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Dave, you ROCK! Well… at least your video does. I'm working on an old stanley plow plane but I wouldn't call it restoring, more like just gitten the darn thing workin again. You did that coffin plane justice. I'd like to know more about your proprietary rust busting method, and how you kept from getting electrocuted and/or acid burned. Thanks for sharing


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Ted WOW, thanks man. I am interested in seeing the Stanley.
Now the rust busting method is electrolysis. It uses DC and baking soda.
I got a blog on that one.
refurbishing old tools #13: Electrolysis is my method of choice for rust removal, what is yours?
You can stick your finger in it. Its no worse than a 9 volt on your tongue and its baking soda. You could drink it.
Thanks Ted.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Another one saved by Dr. Dave…..


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


:0 thanks birthday boy.
Not saved yet still in intensive care. The shavings are yet to come.
Thanks Marty!


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


I wondered what solution was used for electrolysis, now I know. I still need to find out the voltage & current. I'm going to go read that blog right now to learn more.
BTW: I liked the video. I have the same HF clamps, guess I made a wise purchase, seeing as how "The Master" also uses them!!! Good seeing you put the "new" anvil to use. Looking forward to Part 2!!!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Those clamps are unbeatable for the money.
Thanks for the complements Mr. President.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Excellent work Dave. I really admire your enthusiasm for these fine old wooden planes and the effort you make to restore them and also to actually use them. An interesting piece of history and the tools that built America.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Thanks Mike. At least if I restore them, they might hang around another 100 years.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


I've never used super glue such as this, where you're putting it in a closed crack.
However, if you ever have a crack you can open, it worked great if you use it the way I have. Apply the glue to both pieces. Be sure to spread it thin so the piece will still go together well and allow that glue to dry without assembling. Now put a layer of glue on top of that and assemble. Clamp and it will dry and hold forever. 
This sounds crazy, but the first layer somehow seals up the pores and the second layer bonds. The reasoning for this, as I was told, is that super glue bonds to itself better than it does pourous surfaces. So the first layer simply runns down into the pores and hardens. The second layer is the holding layer.

Nice job Dave.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Very good Dave. You are a gr8 historian, and a heck-of-a restorer! Comin along nicely. Like your tube setup also.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


William I had to do it the way I did because it was cracked not split. Super glue was designed for adhering skin. But it will take finish. Thanks for the tip. 
Roger you the man. The history on the planes is half the fun. 
Thanks guys.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Dave… Did you find out that CA glue adheres to skin the same way I found out? LOL

I use hand protection now… I also have the DeBonder available for quick access… never have had to use it… Yet! LOL

Was it developed for the medical field? in place of stitches, etc.?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Joe I have been there. Acetone will break it down as well.
From what I am told, yes it was to be used as stitches. 
If you get a paper cut, put some on it. It won't bother you again.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Masterclass Dave!!! I loved the history and thanks for showing the use of the tape to push the glue into the split. I've never thought of using tape thin film, but I will from now on. Cheers.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Any time Andy that's how we learn from each other. A candy bar wrapper will do in a pinch.
Thank you!
Look at what I got today.




































Guess who is next.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Who is on first.
What is on second.
I don't know is on third…............

As much as I'm looking forward to seeing the rehab on this one, I really want to see it in action!!!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Randy You and Marty both.
Ma-bee a chair seat.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Nice compass plane Dave. That should clean up a treat.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


----------



## TedW (May 6, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Thanks for the link Dave. I have to put making an electrolysis tub on the back burner for a while.. too much on my plate right now. But I will definitely make one sometime soon. The plow plane is a Stanley 45, nothing real special and I have only the one skinny blade with it. Anywayz, I'm just picking away at it slowly, taking a few photos as I go along. I'll be sure and let you know when I post it.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Refurbishing an eBay $10 traditional smoother*
> 
> This is a 9" coffin smoother purchased from eBay. It is a Cassy Clark and Co. from Auburn NY with a Clover Leaf iron.
> Cassy Clark and CO.
> ...


Ted I will patiently wait.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Coffin Smoother part 2*

A little more on the history of our American Planes.
Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
From the early 1800's development efforts appear to be aimed at reducing labor costs and those reductions translated to a steady decline in the quality of wooden planes. American plane makers seem to have led the way in the effort save labor but British planes also suffered from the effects of cost cutting. The ultimate expression of this cost cutting probably was the use of prison labor by some US plane makers. Some of the changes include standardizing wedge thickness to two or three sizes, ill advised introduction of early machine production, reducing efforts at chamfering and shoulder details. Each of these has cascading results that impair the function, feel and quality of the planes.

Now after about an hour of sharpening on the Tormek, I finally got the chips out of the iron. I reassembled the plane and trued up the bottom. 
Here are the results.


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Great stuff Dave. Really awesome video and blog. Thanks for sharing it and taking the time.

All the best,

Joe


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Joe you are so kind. Thank you for your time as well.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


So you are saying that making shavings in the shop beats crawling around in the hot attic of a school?? 

Looking good Dave - looks like the superglue is holding up! Got the tunes and the thin shavings flying…....only thing missing is safety cat?

Nicely done….....


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Thanks Jeff. The cat only shows up when the electrons are being killed. He doesn't like hand tools there to quiet.
The super glue did better than I thought. Time and use will tell the real story.

Anything with super for a first name has got to (insert joke here)


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Yeah - your folks were ahead of the times naming you Super…...big business now!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


You did an awesome job on that coffin smoother Dave. Well worth all the effort you put into it. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


That coffin plane looks great. That super glue looks like it is holding up well.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Andy you are welcome, thank you.
Tim the glue was a good choice. It was that or e-poxy. I hate e-poxy. It is messy.
Thanks guys.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Appreciate the history lesson super. Really gr8 rebirth o that coffin plane


----------



## me5269 (Jun 19, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


this is a great series. I've only read parts 18 and 19 so far. Looking forward the the first 17 parts. i picked up a set of 11 wooden planes on cl last fall for less than a grant. One is like your coffin smoother (with a crack in almost the same place). Others range from 6" to 29". Names I've found so far are Chapin, Stokie, Bodman & hussey, R(B?)uxton Pond, New York Tool (Auburn), Shiverick & malcolm. I've cleaned up a couple (using only mineral spirits on the wood). Most of the irons are in decent shape (rustwise), but have been wondering how to clean and repair them without hurting them too much. Will try your method.
Thank You, I think I will learn a lot from your series.

Michael


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Thanks Roger. Enjoyed you stopping by.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Me5269 I would love to see the results of your restorations. If you have any questions please ask and I will try my best to help. There are more than two ways to skin a cat and other people have different methods to get the same results. The method I use for rust removal is the cheapest I can find and works very well. A lot of guys use evaporust and that can get costly. Thank you for your comments.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Dave, I would like to order 2 sheets of that veneer that you're making…..


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


On there way Marty. What flavor would you like.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


I liked the video.
So how many planes do you own, have you rehabbed??
I have some Evaporust, but I'm going to try the electrolysis. I like the low cost approach.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Randy may-bee 50….. 
You got the low cost right. Thanks for stopping by.
and I dont have a problem…... may-bee…...


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


as usual Dave, nice job.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Nice restore, that plane looks like its now a sweet user.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Coffin Smoother part 2*
> 
> A little more on the history of our American Planes.
> Prison Labor was used by a lot of plane makers.
> ...


Don and Mauricio, thanks guys. A lot!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Traditional Moulding Plane*

Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
ChiselandForge.com









Enjoy.


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Very cool Dave. Great video, looks like a really nice molding plane. Thanks for the post and have fun making shaves!

Take care,

Joe


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks Joe, I am glad you enjoyed!


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks for showing. Very informative and going to be useful to me, as I too have some wooden planes to work on.
Thanks for the tutorial.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


You are more than welcome Oldtool. I am glad I could help.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


That is a great video Dave…....the best I've seen on this topic…..always appreciate the learning…...


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks dude. That was what I was reaching for. Most everything you find is in pieces. I tried to put in as much as I could in one shot.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Super nice, superdave. Gr8 step by step. I can really tell you get into your planes and the how to of them all. Very kool


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


HAPPY BIRTH DAY ROGER!
Thanks !


----------



## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks for the video,very informative.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Your welcome. Thanks for all you do. That shop will be there when you get home.
I had a boy I grew up with join the Army, he built bird houses out of balsa in his barracks. Then mailed them home.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Very nice Dave… Good tutorial!

Good to hear you!

Music at end, drowned you out and was over modulating.

Very good!

Thank you!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks Joe. I was reaching for more of a tutorial this time.
Glad you enjoyed.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Great 'How to' Dave. I haven't restored any moulding planes yet, but now I know how. Thanks.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks Brit. If I get my plane skills to the level of you saw skills the I will have it mastered.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Wow Dave, I was about 1/3 the way into the video when I realized you was talking instead of tagging. Had to start it over and watch it again. Great instructional…..


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


I really enjoyed the video, Dave. I have more than 50 moulding planes that need restoration if I ever get some free time!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks Marty. This one would be to much to flash on the screen.
I have seen them. You could do 1 a week and it would be done in a year.

Thanks guys,


----------



## llwynog (May 5, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Hi Dave,
Great video (as always).
The plane looks fantastic.
If you are interested in the subject, I have recently purchased the videos from this site about using, sharpening restoring or making from scratch a moulding plane. I don't plan on making a moulding plane myself in the very near future but it is greatly educational and teaches a lot of techniques that have become food for thought.

Also, I like the flexcut slipstop usage. I have one myself and recently discovered that the yellow paste abrasive was several grades better than the other 2 brand of paste abrasive I had been using so far. Now I use it on all my chisels.


----------



## CartersWhittling (Jan 29, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Good video. I always like seeing old tools.

I am curious why you used your sticking board with the moulding you were planing on the far side of the fence? It seems like it would be really awkward to get the proper spring angle with the plane.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Fabrice thank you for the complements. And the link is great I will be looking into that. Yes I agree whatever that flex cut gold is made out of is the stuff to use.
You the man, thank you.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Carter thank you. I had tried it next to the fence and was having some difficulty getting it to bite. My fence was to high so I went to the out side of the fence. I was just trying to see how it cut. The sticking board was from a different project and was handy to demo on. Believe me with my tracking skills if I was doing a project the board would have a fence on both sides. 
Thanks!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Great show Dave. I've never tried turpentine, I'll have to give it a shot on a plane I need to restore.

Fabrice, I have the flexcut gold but stopped using it and started using some green stuff. I really dont know which is better. Where did you read about the superiority of the gold? I'd be interested to know what they say about it. I know that pretty much all compounds say average size particles are .5 micron but that means there are larger particles in there help it cut faster for use by hand. Flexcut's website says something similar.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


You tawlk funny. Just messin' :^)

Wow, you have your very own film director!

Great video Dave and thank you for sharing.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Mauricio very appreciated. Turp does wonders around the shop and good luck on the plane.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Hey - I did not know that you can change your user name! I'd love to change nime.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Go to your settings and select use real name. And off you go.


----------



## llwynog (May 5, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Mauricio,
I did not read anything anywhere about the flexcut gold. 
It is just that I had been getting fair results with the green or grey stuff but recently I gave a try to the yellow paste and the results turned out notably sharper.
I might write a blog post about this instead of highjacking Dave's thread.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Hmm, I may have to do a comparrison, I have been using green after a 6000 water stone and my blades are sharp but Im not seeing a mirror polish. I'll have to give the Gold another try.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Hijack away guys thats how I learn.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


congrats with your new toy Dave 
its sure was a nice catch

two things if you didn´t noticed …. first I think it shuold be used with the spring in it 
maybee I´m wrong but it sure did looked to me that there is a spring in the mould 
but maybee the lines has been deleted when someone has shorten the plane a little 
after some abusive use of a hammer on the end …. just a gess

and other way of geting the profile right on the blade is to have the blade in the plane 
just stiucking out 1-2 mm and then score a new line that follows the bottom of the plane 
as you wuold do with a new build mouldingplanie 
and then regrind to the scoring then sharpening from the bevelside

just a way to get those two things to match since old planes often scrink 
so the blade is too wide for the body

good to see some have fun in the messy corner of the shop 

have a great day 
take care
Dennis


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


I paid attention & learned a whole bunch. I even listened to the "Master" and comprehended everything.

Great Video & tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to impart some knowledge into this thick skull.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Dave!

You are no longer* "SuperDave" !!*

You changed to your real name… took me awhile… but I finally noticed it! LOL

You're still Super in my mind…

Thank you.


----------



## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Dave that was great

I really enjoyed watching it

jamie


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Dennis how are you? I hope the family is well. And Thank you. Shorting would explain no makers mark. And the scribing of the iron would work great but I am stingy with the steal and try to save as much as possible. That method would have surely worked well. Thanks for watching. Your ideas are always important to me.
~
Ahh Randy I am glad you enjoyed it. We still need to give the one you have some attention. And when you are ready just say the word.
~
Thanks Joe you are a Super Friend! Thank you!
~
Thank you Jamie I am happy it was enjoyable for you. Come again.
~
Thanks guys you are the reason I do this. You give me the want to learn.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Late kudos for the fine video and demonstration Dave. Great results!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks Mike. I am glad you liked it. Now if I can learn to hold that plane right it will all work out.
Thank you.


----------



## Johnnyblot (Mar 2, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Excellent. Thanks for the video. Well done that man!

Cheers
John


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thank you John! I am glad you enjoyed.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Watched again. Just a great video. Thanks for sharing. I realize it ties a lot of time and effort to put these clips together.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Traditional Moulding Plane*
> 
> Here is a video on a plane refurbish from out of the box to use. The plane was bought online and a pleasant surprise when I got it. I have also posted this on my blog. It goes a bit more in depth.
> ChiselandForge.com
> ...


Thanks, This one I think was the longest production. I shot most of it on Sunday morning and went inside. {away from the heat} Put it together in about an hour and a half. Them waited for the 4 hour upload to youtube.
I like doing it. 
It will give my grandchildren a taste of Pawpaw in the shop.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*A four inch coffin smoother.*

Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.









I believe David Ward made it.









I used turpentine and BLO for the refurbish









The shavings and finish it left are amazing.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Very nice Dave.
One day I'll luck up on some of these planes like you do, when I have the money.
Anytime I have money to spend, all I find are overpriced.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


That's a keeper…......nicely restored. You should quit your day job!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


We're gonna get a federal grant for him Jeff.
I think he's ready to open up a school with a curriculum that deals with strictly hand tools.
I think he can handle it and keep it interesting for a whole school year too.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Not that would be a great job.
I could actually study what I love.
Thanks for the kind words guys.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


COOL lil plane…

Nice refurb… Good job!

Nice curls…

Thank you.


----------



## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Welcome to Dave's school of old school…..


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


sweet dave

great refurb


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,
School of old school. hmmmmm


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


If you'd name it School of Old Fools, then I could be a teacher too.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Come on in William you are all welcome.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


William - Dave could do all the work, and you could do the talking…...*PINE!*


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Ohhhhhhhhhh Sapele !


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Don't forget oak.
What do you guys have against oak.
I could barely hear Dave say that in the video.
Because I turned the volume down by then.
And now ya'll are neglecting it here.
I'm starting a school wide strike until ya'll can recognize the strength and beauty of the mighty oak.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Oak is cool, its one of my favorite woods to work with.
It is all good.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


What are you talking about William - Oak makes great firewood?!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


True Jeff.
It also makes good jewelry boxes though.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


It is the choice wood for Japanese plane bodies.


----------



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Just kidding guys….......I'm not about to open the Oak pandora box…....

Nice jewelry box William…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


That reminds me, any of ya'll remember the time I put into the oak slat patio chairs?
Do not use red oak for slats on patio chairs.
The chairs are still usable, but dang those chairs are ugly now.
They've turned sort of an ugly, sickly black color on the wood.
Also, the tannin has already rusted the metal so bad that I'm going to have to find more frames before even considering redoing anything.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Your tanning in your chairs and it rusted them?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Very nice, and it's got a good home now!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


niiiice plane … you did a good job Dave 
the iron will stay sharp for a long time I have been told 
ward made some good tool iron in there time 
my pigstickers is from ward and they are tuff to sharpen … with hand … lol

thanks for sharing

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Smitty and Dennis my favorite galoot masters. Glad you guys enjoyed.
Good to know about the steal Dennis.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


you do know how to bring 'em back online Dave!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Don that means a lot coming from Sargent Stanley.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


sorry Dave I´m not in the master leage .. hardly a novice 
the master Galoots are here 
http://www.wkfinetools.com/
a very fine site to gain knowledge from beside L J …. 

Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Dennis I would agree that is one of the better sites.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Dave has got his "Old School" plane & I just got myself a "New School" planer…....

Nice rehab, Ahab!!!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Well Randy may bee we can flatten some wood.
Thanks there ole timer.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


It looks great Dave, it has a new lease on life now.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Why thank you Shane.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


From the firewood have come many LJ boxes? LOL!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Doc!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


Oh yes. Carry on Superd


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *A four inch coffin smoother.*
> 
> Hello, I found this little plane on ebay and had to have it.
> 
> ...


you got it Roger.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Wood Plane 101*

A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Hey SuperDave!

It was nice looking you straight in the eye and listening to your voice… instead of the silent treatment…
... they both have their uses… I like the silent treatment in it's place… I also like some voice once in awhile, when required for clarity, etc.

GOOD JOB!

I learned something!

Thank you!


----------



## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Great video of how you do your stuff.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Joe thank you! You are always kind a polite. I was asked for this and had to show my ugly mug!
Charles I am glad you enjoyed the show. Come again friend.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


I always learn something from your video tutorials. Yeah, I said it. You are teaching the ways of the past and keeping it going and moving it forward. Nice job.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


nice david

an easy to follow tutorial

nice collection you got there too

thanks


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Randy as bad as I have been picking on you and your CL quest. Thank you. 
(I am still going to pick on you)
Patron that sir coming from you means a lot to me. I am so happy you can stream video better now.


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Great stuff Dave! Great work on these wonderful old planes and very informative.

The woodrights dvds have plenty of visits with blacksmith master Peter Ross showing the making of chisels etc. You would love these if you do not have them. The knowledge in the discs are worth the price. Here is a link if you have an interest in it…...hint hint…....ask the wife or someone for christmas…..lmao!..... http://www.popularwoodworking.com/roy-underhill

Keep on keeping on and take care,

Joe


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Joe I have been eyeballing those hard. And popularwoodworking is not helping letting out 5 minute takes on all the shows. She is on my case a bit about buying to many toys. But I will be asking for these come Christmas. Thanks. and I am glad you enjoyed.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Thank you for the video Dave. I enjoyed it, as always. I always learn something new from you everytime you talk hand planes. 
I have hunted high and low around Vicksburg. I covet your wooden planes everytime I visit your shop. I just can't seem to find any, and am not confident enough in them to order from Ebay just yet. As a matter of fact, I've only ordered two planes from the Bay so far, and messed up on those purchases. I have decided to lay off that until I'm better edumecated. 
I did see a coffin plane on our recent flea market Saturday I mentioned. It had a bad crack down one side of it though. The seller told me it could be fixed, but I was just too leery of it with a $25 price tag. After watching this video though, I now have even more to look for. I would not have known a thing before tonight about looking at the wedge. The part about chips catching along the edge of a ill fitting wedge makes perfect sense, but I wouldn't have thought to look for that problem.
Anyway, thanks again. I always enjoy your videos. I won't mess with you about showing your mug on camera. We both know you're ugly face would win beauty contests next to mine. 
Have a good night.
I'm off to bed now, where I should already be.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Ah William its good to see you did learn something. You must not be feeling well because you are being nice to me. I would like to know where the crack was on that plane. Was it on the side where the wedge goes into the body? That is where the most pressure is.
All kidding aside. I am glad you guys are getting something out of the videos.
PS
Your going to hate my tool gloat coming up.


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


That's probably the most succinct and informative piece on wooden planes I've seen so far. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and experience!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


BTimmons you sir are more than welcome. Thank you for the kind words. I am glad to entertain.
PS
I had to go look that word up.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Wow Dave, what a fantastic, informative video. I have a wooden 24" jointer, 18" jack, 8" and 4" smoothers and a toothing plane to rehab and you've answered a lot of my questions. I also want to get a 30" jointer, but I may well end up making one just for the experience. Definitely one for the favourites my friend.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Andy I love it. The video is striking fire in people to get those ole boys working again. It looks like you have a full arsenal for ready attack on ruff sawed lumber.
Good luck. And if I know you, it will be good.
If I can help please let me know.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Just fer u guys


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


You were correct. I hate you now. Love the gouges.
As for the difference in the grind on the gouges, as I understand it from reading, there was a purpose. The inside grind on some of the gouges were for outward curves, working similar to a roundover bit on a router. The outside grind was for the more common use you might think of when using a gouge, gouging out wood on an inside curve. I hope all this makes sense. As I get time I will look for the information and try my best to reerence where I read all this. It was explained better in the book.

You have two of those chip carving sets in a handle thingys. Lucas really needs one. He wants to do some chip carving at work. He was thinking a whittlers knife in his pocket, but found out that knives are a no-no at work. That would be a perfect solution for him. Just a thought.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


You've got some nice treasures there Dave. I love all of that stuff. The file handle looks like an instrument of torture used by the Spanish Inquisition.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Dave,

Great video, very informative on the fit of the wedge. I have been having trouble with clogging on a wooden jack I refurbished, I think you uncovered my problem - the wedge I made, points too long.

As an FYI on making wedges to fit properly, in any of the planes - molding included, I turned to my grandchildern on this one for assistance. I borrowed some of their Play-Doh, assembled the plane with the iron, packed in the Play-Doh where the wedge goes, waited a couple days for the Play-Doh to harden, then took it out for a 3 dimensional model of the wedge I needed.

Thanks again for the wedge details, much appreciated and very useful,
Tom Baker


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Andy its a mini iron maiden for mice. Thats good stuff. Thank you.
~
Oldtool I am glad that the video has saved another plane.
That is a great Idea for a missing wedge. Forensics for planes. That could uncover a problem area that yuo are not able to see.
Now you might want to replace that Play-Doh.
Thank you for the tips.
~
Now a tip I use. I keep a few bamboo skewers on my bench for clearing problems. They are strong and dont damage the plane.
Thanks Guys


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Nice bunch of tools you got there…!

Are those Turning gouges vs carving gouges?
... probably Turning… just to be sure…

Thank you.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Joe they are carving gouges and I have been on the hunt for a good long time now. We all no what new ones cost. These are in need of a bit of loving care but will back in service soon.
Thank you


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Hey Dave
Thanks for the tutorial on wooden planes even though I have a few I had know idea what to check on them. I liked your tool gloat too.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Why thank you Jim, I am happy you enjoyed it.
Thank You


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Interesting stuff super.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Thank you Roger


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Great video Dave, I also like the old wooden bodied planes. 
Here is my scrub I use for removing a lot of stock quickly.








I also use this fore plane for similar purposes. 









It's amazing how they can be saved even from a very decrepit state

Also love the jems you have there from London, really nice scores! Was shipping crazy on those?


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Mauricio thank you. You know the average Japanese woodworker will put 4 or more bodies on his plane irons in there lifetime. The iron is the hard part to come up with. The wood part I can make. As long as I have some understanding of how it works. If I don't then I will research it till I find an answer.
Those are some mighty fine planes you have there. The shop made one is cool looking to.
Not all the tools came from England but yes the shipping was harsh.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Super, the video is excellent! And looking you in the eye, as Joe said above, took the mystery out of 'who is Super Dave?' Very cool!

Nice woodies you have. I was at a tool auction last Saturday and there were probably 20+ woodies of different types sold. About half went for less than $5 each, with the most expensive one going for about $20. Transitionals were dirt cheap, too. No, I didn't get any of them, as I kept powder dry for a few other 'must haves'. 

Again, great vid, thanks for posting!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Smitty that means a lot coming from you. 
There are never any cool auctions around me with woodies. I have to scrounge for the few I have found. Or they want *WAY* to much for them.
And yes you had to look at my ugly mug.
Thanks for the cool comments and come again Smitty.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


finely I got around to see this vidio Dave 
when you posted I was at my mother (denied me time enoff on her PC )... :-(
and when I got home the wife had turned the power of this one so the battery was dead after 2 second
since its long gone beside one of the capacitors is gone too …. Grrr she knew she cuoldn´t shot of
the electricity to it since it takes 2½ days to get up again 
so I only have had the old one with windows 98 …. it can hardly download 2 sites :-(
well thats the past for now 
glad to see you old scarfed face … 
I didn´t knew you had that many wooden planes but it sure looked great in the till 
I still battle with the problem of geting a real flat peice of marmor or thick enoff glass 
to take care of my bottoms on the planes :-(
the marmor I ordred wasn´t flat at all even though they had promissed it wuold be 
can´t even use it to flatten the back of the blades …. I got seasick of looking at the surface on it

so it will be a while before I can continue the restoring of all my planes :-(
on the possitive site ….. still have 200 other tools to restore 
went into the shop today (first time in a half year ) great to hear a plane sing again on wood 
working on a new beam for a framesaw … too many wormholes on the old one

there is just something speciel about having these old tools between your hands 
while working with them …. 

congrats with your new jewlry´s 
I still have to understand the different benefits you get from inside VS. outside chanel gauges 
I know on you get from the outside chanel and that is …. it is easyer to hollow a bowl 
when you go from one angle to a lower angle with the gauge …. but from there to understand 
the different ….. is a long way 
I want to know it before I invest in a full set including the pairing gauges 
what set to get first ..

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Oh Dennis my friend it sounds as you are have big computer problems. I hope you can work through them.
I have gotten a better response on my blog and YouTube with this video. I think showing my ole face helps a lot. Talking is a good point as well.
Sorry to hear about the uneven marmor. Can you get a counter top scrap. May bee a cut out from a sink installation.
200 hundred to restore, that is a lot. I am behind and need to get caught up as well.
Take us some pictures of the frame when your ready.
I agree working with the old tools does give you a good feeling. Bringing them back from certain destruction is a great feeling as well.
Thank you, they are pretty. To me the in cannel are great for pairing flutes, cutting inside coves in a tight miter or corner. They are a lot easier to use but a monster to sharpen. The out cannel are a whole lot easier to sharpen. I think I will leave about three of them in cannel and change the rest to out cannel.
Its all in what you are trying to do. I have three good Finnish ones that have been serving me well.
Thank you for your time and wonderful comments Dennis.
I hope all is well and wish the a good flat surface will find its way to you.
Dave


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


I gess I have to be armed with patience 
not having a tablesaw or jointer … lol

I did breakout a raughbank today with a bad dull blade and the rest need badly a full restoring
but I had to be sure the beam was sort of flat on the reference side …. don´t you think it wuold look 
silly if the beam look like a wobling wedge 

I will take pictures of it … the camera is in the plug to be powered up 
I have after all started a restoring blog I need to continue .... haver some material ready for it
just need to find the energy to post it

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

superdav721 said:


> *Wood Plane 101*
> 
> A few people have had some questions about the ways I have done some of the refurbishing and purchasing of old traditional wooden planes.
> Here is a short video on some of the things I have learned through the years.
> These are my methods and opinions in refurbishing ole planes.


Dennis when you start you will find the energy to complete the task. A lot of th time I would rather sit in the house but when I get up and get started the project becomes fun.
We await your project. Just take it a little at a time.
Good Luck.


----------

