# Powdered metal inlay advise please



## KadeK (Jan 31, 2013)

I am starting a project using burl veneer and am looking to fill the natural voids and knot holes with powdered metal inlay. I am planning on using atomized copper to 325 mesh. My thought was to mix the powdered copper with 30 min epoxy to make a paste and then spread the mixture into the voids and then sanding smooth when cured. Does anyone else use powdered metal? If so would you share how you do it? Thanks ya'll!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Sorry that I can't answer your question directly, but have you looked at InLace products? There may be something usable for your application. HTH


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## alohafromberkeley (Oct 26, 2011)

Haven't had hands on but I've researched for later use in gaps, cracks, etc. The art supply houses that specialize in jewelry usually have a range of quality of inlay material- from epoxy sticks to metal powders. Also, turning sites have a selection materials- Packard Woodworks, Constantines, and Craft Supples, USA all list metal powders and epoxies. It's beautiful when it works- problem is dulling of shine after epoxies set…I've also seen great work using crushed gemstones and Inlace products. Sorry I can't give you a more tutorial answer.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I have used a mixture of colored chalk (the kind used in chalk lines) and a finishing resin called "Z-poxy" with good results in filling voids in Mesquite. "Z-poxy" is a thinner version of epoxy and does penetrate the wood a lot more. Sets over night and sands smooth. I buy Z-poxy at my local hobby shop.


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## stevepeterson (Dec 17, 2009)

I have done exactly what you are proposing on some small bowls with worm holes. I got brass powder from Craft Supplies and mixed it with epoxy. I was using 5 minute epoxy since that was all I had at the time. 30 minute epoxy would obviously be better. I measured out the epoxy and hardener, then added brass to one of them so it could get mixed in before mixing in the hardener.

I simply sanded normally. It had a good sparkle when finished. The bowl was white oak, so it was fairly hard and seemed to sand evenly without leaving a bump or dished out area.


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## KadeK (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks guys! I will give it a whirl


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

What kind of Z-poxy do you used, I came up with several results. I'm looking for something that will flow better and set over a longer time for better penetration. I used to see 24hr epoxy everywhere with the quick set being the more expensive, harder to find stuff, now I can't find the 24hr stuff anywhere.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Try http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/viewcategories.asp?gclid=CNzVxvCLzroCFcae4Aod7hIAzQ


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

This is Z-poxy that I get at the local hobby shop…........... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O8ESK/ref=asc_df_B0006O8ESK2807072?smid=A2Y00PJ965TIMN&tag=nextagusmp0384857-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0006O8ESK http://www.calibex.com/Z_-_Poxy-Finishing-Resin/zzcalibex2zB1z0--search-html?nxtg=6a8a0a500510-D1CC431253280705


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## Zompa (May 28, 2016)

I have used powdered copper inlay material from walston woodworks and its not very expensive. My choice is not epoxy but rather use thin CA glue. It dries really fast. If you use CA glue you must rub some wood paste wax around the fill area to avoid the CA glue from staining the wood. I learned that the hard way. The wax works every time . Another tip if you were ever to use brass powdered inlay. DONT buy it. Take a plastic bag to your local Home Depot , Lowes or local hardware stores an ask them if you can have their key cutter shavings. They are going to look at you kind of strange but its worth it. I probably have over a pound of it and it was free and looks great for inlay.


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