# Ridgid R4511 my own little review



## Routerisstillmyname (Oct 16, 2008)

Dang close will not be close enough. Get a digital dial indicator at harborfreight. that saw deserves it ;-)


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## MarkwithaK (Sep 12, 2009)

Congrats. I picked up one of these a couple months back and despite the poor assembly instructions it actually went together fairly well and squared up easily. Enjoy your new saw.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for the reiview.


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## RandyMarine (Mar 5, 2009)

I myself bought this saw a couple of months ago, and everything you described in your review I experienced.

I had to go back to HD and look at the floor model to ensure I was doing this thing justice. When I was leveling the wings the main top cracked, called HD and they brought to my house a brand new replacement saw. They helped me put it together and took the damaged one away.

After a month I was not happy with the fence on the saw so I replaced it with the Shop Fox Classic and frued diablo blades. What a difference it made. I love this saw and glad I pulled the trigger.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

congratulations on the saw - it's a good one.

the blade only retracting 3/8" below the surface of the top is a standard thing with table saws - I have yet to find a table saw that retracted the blade more than that (I'm sure there are a few - never saw on though). you can use a dado blade to notch the bottom of the ZCI, then use your regular blade to go through the ZCI. if you'll look at commercial ZCI - they are all notched like that already.

for the chip in the granite, and the fact that the throat insert is wobbly - I would recommend contacting Ridgid for a replacement top - it's a brand new saw, and should not have those 2 issues, as little as they may seem.

another thing I would try is to take the belt off and turn on/off the saw to see if it'll rumble which will indicate whether it's caused by the belt or by the motor.

enjoy the sawdust! this saw is a totally different experience than what you've used before - but you should already know that by now.


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## BigG (Dec 30, 2009)

After a fair amount of tuning, I have really enjoyed this saw for the last several months. I got mine when I had to bring my woodworing mags to HD to show them their new product that I wanted to buy. If you go to the Ridgid Forum web site you will find threads on the R4511 relating to every possible aspect of this saw including the shudder at shutdown. I may do the fence/rail upgrade if I can't fine tune mine a little more. There are numerous threads on this subject that I have printed as well. I put a Forrest WWII on mine and it cuts like a hot knife through butter.

Have fun,


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys! I just did the belt off test and there is no shudder so it looks like a belt is going to be the next purchase. The throat insert was wobbly because of two hidden allen head screws that were loose on the rear support adjustment that are really hard to find. after i tightened them up no more wobble. I must admit that I was really surprised to see that the blade did not retract further, i guess i was just used to my craftsman that retracted about an inch below the top. Made making an insert a little harder but not bad. I am going to keep a good eye on that chip section to make sure it doesn't create a stress crack but for now im just going to leave it.

I talked to a buddy of mine that is a sheet metal mechanic (makes huge aluminum/steel parts for airplanes) and he said if i bring him a piece of angle and a piece of 2 inch square tube he can square the surfaces on his machines so they are "as flat as you'll ever need" so i think i'm going to try that.


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## nytefsher (Jan 2, 2010)

hoping to get some help with putting together the herculift .. are the 4 screws supposed to stay loose.. this saw is my first BIG step into a brand new saw my other on was a craftsman hand me down from my grandpa..


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

all the bolts that have the locktite nuts should stay loose. VERY loose… which allows the herculift mechanism the freedom of movement to fold up and down.


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## nytefsher (Jan 2, 2010)

thanks PurpLev.. the instructions were vague and i was beginning to feel a bit dumb


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

You can get the replacement belt from McMaster Carr. Its a size 300j6, 30.5" outer circle. Part number is 9003K16. Makes a noticeable difference over the factory supplied belt. Cost is like $12.00


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## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

I have a question about the table wings. I am considering buying one and I LOVE everything about it except the granite top. I went to Depot to look at it and give it a good look. It's really nice actually. I am nervous mainly about the top cracking or chipping later or whatever other problems could occur. I really like that it's flat and won't rust though. My question is how the wings attach to the main table. It looked like a couple of steel bars connected the wing to the main table. Does it have set screws for adjustments? Does it look like it should stand the test of time holding up the weight? Basically what do you think of the way it is attached to the main table? Having not put one together I figure you'd have a good idea of the quality of the way it fits and all. If someone were to lean on the wing or put a lot of weight on the end would if have a chance of cracking?

Thanks a lot for any help you can give!


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

those flat bars support the wings and there are set screws in them to adjust the top. What actually holds the wings to the main table are 3 studs that you put nuts on to bolt the wings to the main top. With the liftime warranty from ridgid i'm not worried about cracking a top, everyone that has had one crack has had great customer support from them. dont forget also that the angle iron for the front and rear rails also ties the rails together so it has much better support. Lean against it and crack? not a chance. what to you is allot of weight? 100 pounds probly wouldnt affect it. there have been some that have hung a router extension on them and have had no problem. dont forget that cast iron is brittle too.


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## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

Thanks a lot Clliffton. I am considering buying but waiting for the 10% coupon in mail. I hope it comes soon. My local HD has 5 left and I know they were discontinued. It would be great if they come out with a new one that is even better! Unless I buy this one now and then that happens in a couple months…

Thanks!


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## shopmania (Sep 8, 2009)

I bought this saw 6 months ago and have been very happy with it! The adjustment screws allowed me to get the wings very flat and flush. The fence is actually quite good, and if it gets off by a 16th or 32nd occassionally (measuring blade to fence at the front and back of the blade) it is b/c there is saw dust under the fence guide in the front, and when i get that cleaned out, it is zeroed up and parallel again. I was able to make a zero clearance insert w/ 1//2 ply without any trouble. I plan to make one from UHMW soon.

Getting the HERC-U-LIFT and the plastic dust catching piece both installed was quite a challenge, (it seems like they both need to go on first! Some longer screws would have been helpful I think) but the lift does a great job of picking up the 450 lb. saw. I only wish the fence went out to 36". Other than that, it's just about perfect. If I was cutting 8/4 goods, power may be an issue, but for sheet goods and 3/4 oak or maple, it has been great. For $400-450, I can't believe you could find more value in a table saw.

Just my 2 cents. Hadn't heard they discontinued it. Appreciate the info about the belt, and riving knife. Just bought the microjig MJ Splitter, to put on my UHMW ZCI. I'll let you know what I think. The Grr-Ripper is really a nice addition, and keeps your hands away from the blade on those small cuts.


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## drfixit (Oct 16, 2009)

Ive had a Ridgid TS3612 for over 10 years now… its been such a great saw, last week my dad went and bought the R4511, got it for like $425 with a 15% off Harbor Freight coupon (HD matches competitors) I spent 4 hours putting it together and setting it up. This thing is a beast! He is tickled with it because like you, he had a table top Crapsman saw before this one. It went together great, but the manual for it would probly been better off used in the outhouse! The biggest thing I saw that I did not like about the saw, is the fence is not adjustable for making it paralell to the blade. Unless I missed something


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

the adjustment on the fence is on the 2 set screws towards the handle end of it that push against the nylon guides that ride on the 2×2 rail. it is a little crude but it works.


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## drfixit (Oct 16, 2009)

ok, thanks


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

IF YOU LIVE IN THE VIRGINIA SUBURBS OF DC-the Sterling store still shows TWO R4511 saws in stock-NOT on display, on clearance at $500.


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## JerrySats (Jul 7, 2008)

HD has this on clearance for $299 starting 1/12 but some guys got the sale price today . You may want to take your receipt back and see if they give you the difference .


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## owenusa (Dec 4, 2009)

Just got this saw today at HD for $299, last one, what a steal!! Now I just need to figure out how to get it out of the back of the SUV as they used a forklift to put it in for me. I can't wait to set it up, and tweak it a bit with everyone's wonderful tips. Thanks. If anyone is thinking about it, now is the time for $299.


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

How i got it out of my xterra is i took all the cardboard off and then took all the pieces out and then slid the steel crate out. took a while but it worked and i didn't break it.


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

One left in Cascades (No Va) at $299 as of 1/15/2010


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## BigG (Dec 30, 2009)

Snatched up my second R4511 this week. This time for $299 vs the first one at $599. Guess I must like the saw.


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## captkerk (Jul 11, 2009)

Finally got one, too. Bought it for 499 last week but was able to go back in with my receipt to get the 299 price. What a steal!


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## sjfields (Jan 18, 2010)

Up here in the Great White North, the R4511 goes for $799, and there is not a big difference between the Canadian and US dollar. For about the same price I can get a Delta 36-980 or a Delta 36-715. Any thoughts on which is the better buy? I need to upgrade from my Craftmaster MD 10. Thanks
Stephen


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## jp93274 (Jan 15, 2010)

Got one $299 price is hard to pass!


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

stephen, is there a way that you could buy it across the border and then bring it across?, I dont know if HD will do a store to store ship on clearance items.


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## sjfields (Jan 18, 2010)

Hi Cliffton,

Thanks for the thought. I called a couple HDs in the Niagara Falls. They said the saws are sold out. I asked how much they sold for and the guy said 499, which surprised me. Anyway. I had considered bringing one over the border if I found one for $299. I doubt the duty would be so much that I would not still save some money. 
BTW, love the table dish.


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

Hmm that really sucks, maybe they sold out before the clearance price.

Thanks, my wife has claimed it now and it sits proudly in the dining room.


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## tdoaner (Mar 12, 2010)

Just a note about being able to find the saw. You can purchase one from Home Depot customer service area. Price is the original price $599, but you can get one. I missed the sales and clearance by a week. I just ordered the unit after looking everywhere to get one. It will be delivered in 7 - 10 days. Thanks for the information in set up, etc.


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## Ffakr (Sep 27, 2010)

I was able to pick one up in Illinois about a month back. There may be some lurking around here and there. I brought in a Lowes 10% off coupon and got it for under $350.00 You can get a 10% off Lowes coupon if you go into your local post office and ask for a Moving Kit (the forms for address changes with some coupons stuffed into the envelope). Check to make sure they're not expired before you leave though.

It's the nicest saw I've ever owned, upgrading from an aluminum top Craftsman, so I'm not particularly qualified to lament at any lack of quality in this area or that. I just don't have experience on a $3k professional cabinet saw for reference.

I'm immensely happy with the saw. Cutting wood is a dream compared to my old setup.

As mentioned.. the instructions are pretty bad. They could have made things immensely easier if they'd just label the screws, nuts, and bolts properly. I ended up assembling and disassembling the base because I used the wrong screws. They're not well labeled in the packaging or in the instructions. The instructions are flat out wrong in one place. It takes time and common sense to get this together.
The Herculift works fantastic but I think the engineering is pretty bad. It's designed exactly like I'd tell someone to not design it. All of your pivot points are just loose bolts instead of hinges or bushings. I expect that the bolts will wear eventually and I'm a little worried about shearing. Luckily, I don't expect to move it that much that it'll be a serious concern for me.

There are lots of little things that are appreciated, like the set screws in the throat plate for leveling.. though I wish the stamped steel plate was a bit more flat. I'll probably replace that eventually.

The table is amazing but I'm not able to tweak the wings perfectly level. They're always just enough off to notice the lip but it's well within my needs. I'll give it another try when I get the basement shop built out and I finally move the saw inside.

I'm happy with the fence for basic work. Its been staying true for me. One complaint is the finish. The powder coating has a bit of drag to it that's already caused me to nick a cut or two while I was getting used to the machine. It could really use a low friction face attached to it. I have to look at it better though, I fear that I'll have trouble shifting the gauge on the fence rails enough to compensate for a decent face.. one that's thick enough to sit true to the fence face. I would have liked a T channel down the top of the fence though. It'd be nice to have the option of easily adding a down-facing finger board or other hold-down hardware. I already had trouble trying to feed a rather long white oak board through by myself (that stuffs heavy)

Dust collection with a Delta 670 seems very good with very little dust escaping the top. However, the dust that does come out is very fine and carries.. and I'm using it in a garage, not an immaculate shop, so I'm probably missing some other 'leaks'. I'm considering a collection arm over the blade when I go indoors. There are some spaces in the bottom corners of the cabinet too. I've heard of other people sealing these with tape, which I haven't yet done.

I'm guessing it pulls about 10-12A on 110V to startup but it settles down after that. I had it running in the garage on a 15A circuit with a large craftsman shop vac and about 100W of lighting. 15A can handle the total load but the lights dim when you power it up. It'll actually dim the light just a bit without the shop-vac on too.
I haven't had it bog down, but I've not run anything too serious through it yet.

And the belt..
I, like others, get more shutter than I expected though mine is mainly startup. I also suspect the belt because the thing is a tank and the motor is smooth. I'm a little surprised because I inspected the belt and the joint seemed pretty good. 
Belt quality seems to be an issue with Ridgid though. There are a lot of complaints about the belts they ship with their band saw.. mine had a huge blister where joined. They'll replace it if you call them though. Given the cost of belts, your best bet is probably buying a high quality after-market belt though. I've been tearing through the Home Depot clearances so I've got the 14" Band saw (good, not great) and the 6 1/8" joiner. The joiner is much smoother (no start/stop wobble) and, surprisingly, came out of the box remarkably dialed-in. I'm not a Ridgid cheerleader but overall they've been solid tools well worth the money (on sale). I wish I could have snagged the floor drill press while it was discounted (wish it had a laser though).

Overall.. it's an absolutely amazing saw for the price. I honestly think it's a good deal at retail. If you can still find any on clearance it's a no-brainer.
This isn't a saw that is only worthwhile because it's on clearance. It stands very well on its own.


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

I just wanted to update this a little, I had my left wing crack a few months ago and Ridgid customer service pallet shipped me a whole new top to my door. took a couple of hours to put it on but I can't complain about the service.


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## Ffakr (Sep 27, 2010)

Wow, I can't believe I've had this saw since 2010. Got it after I moved into my current house and didn't think we've been there that long.
I haven't had an opportunity to use it much recently but I'm trying to get active with my woodworking projects and active on LJ again, and thus I ran across my old review here. 
Thought I'd add some additional thoughts, in case someone comes here looking for info while considering buying a Used model.

*RECALL*
Well sort of.. Check with Home Depot. There was an extended service program for some of these saws. The blade shafts could fail on some of them under heavy load,.. they warned against using Dado blades if your saw needs the repair/upgrade. See if the program still active and check the serial number to see if your saw is covered. They were sending people out to fix this on these saws.
My saw didn't seem to be one of the affected.. my serial# was formatted differently than those covered.

*DADO Limitation:*
The blade shaft isn't long enough to put a thick dado stack on it. Been a while, but I recall that I maybe felt comfortable with only a 3/8" stack. You run out of threads before you run out of horsepower to run a wider Dado stack through softwoods.

*Fence & Fence rails:*
This is maybe my biggest complaint. The fence isn't great. I've added some HDPE to it's face but I had to drill & tap holes across it's face to hold the HDPE flat against it.
The other major problem is with the angle steel that's used on the back side of the table top. To fit better in the crate, they shipped this as two pieces instead of one that spans the full length of the fence's run. I've never been able to get both the right & left sides dialed in. The seam is just a bit to the right of the blade too so while I've been able to adjust the fence to perfectly parallel for all cuts more than a few inches wide, when I move the fence closer it would then sit on the other section of L bracket and it would be out of square.

I haven't had to use the saw much for a while (and I've avoided it increasingly as the garage it's currently in continued to fill up with crap).. so I haven't done anything to try and remedy this issue. I had a theory that maybe some of the steel inserts in the Granite that the L brackets mounted to might be a little proud. I don't recall if I ever got around to pulling the brackets off and checking them with a straight-edge though.. I need to do this and grind down any that I find standing proud.
I also thought that maybe I should just fabricate a replacement single length of angle steel. I got as far as having trouble sourcing a piece of stock with exactly the same profile, and I was worried about finding a piece that's straight and true (90degrees).. and then there was the issue of how to finish it (would spray Paint hold up?).

*Rolling Stand..*
It has a lever system in the cabinet that allows you to lower wheels down to move the saw around. It always seemed a bit 'hinkey' though and sure enough, mine stopped working properly. It currently lifts the saw up just enough that I can drag it, but I can't roll it. I suspect maybe a bolt came loose and it needs some adjustment but it's so damn heavy that I haven't tried to fix it yet. I figured that's something to deal with when I finally (if ever) get my basement wood shop done and I need to break this thing down to move it.

*Setting Blade to Parallel*
Last complaint.. because of how the motor/drive assembly is mounted to the cabinet, adjusting the top (specifically the channels) to make it parallel with the blade requires you to loosen the top and shift it in respect to the fixed position of the blade.
In practice, I've been able to set it parallel, but the process is less than ideal. There's no fine-adjustment available.. not bolts to nudge things one direction or the other. You have to brute-force drag the 1-1/2" thick granite top.. or bump it into perfect alignment and then bolt it down again.

Those are all my gripes.. on top of whatever else I mentioned before.

That all said.. I'm still overall happy with the saw, especially given the clearance price I got on it. 
All my complaints are resolvable. The only reason I haven't resolved them all on my saw yet is through lack of time/effort.
If you can get one cheap enough and you're willing to maybe do the tuning/mods required.. I think you'll be happy with it.

P.S. LOVE not having to worry about the top rusting.. especially since it's been in my garage for years.


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