# What kind of joint is best for kitchen cabinet doors?



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Our kitchen cabinet doors are traditional construction with raised panel and framed with regular stiles and rails construction which I built myself many years ago. However, a few years ago I made six hanging cabinets for my workshop using mitered half-lap construction on the frame and panel doors. The panel is 3/8" chipboard, not glued in. These cabinets have remained very stable and the door frames seem very strong. I like the mitered look and I am considering using this type of construction on a new set of kitchen doors. But before I do this, I would feel more comfortable if I knew this type of construction would be suitable for that purpose, so I would appreciate any good advice before I make the leap.


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

I just made a whole bunch of mitered floating tenon doors for my kitchen, I'll tell you in a decade how they hold up, but I had the devil of a time getting them apart after my dry fit…

I think mitered half-lap should be just fine!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hey Mike 
Fine woodworking had a strength test on door joinery and half lap was the strongest.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

In our production door shop we use the traditional cope & stick joint. Having done thousands & thousands of doors over the last 40 years, I don't remember ever having one come back due to the joint failing. When the door is dropped or abused it will usually break the wood around the joint, but the joint itself doesn't come apart. That said, Fine Woodworking recently tested joints and showed the cope and stick to be somewhat weak. My question is, how often do you put 1000 lbs of mechnical pressure against the corner of your kitchen cabinet doors. I think the test of time is much more important to me. Now is it better than your mited joint? I'm not real sure. I would say do whatever you like best. Both joints will work for you.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

And then dowel pin the mitre as well never move then LOL


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## davidpettinger (Aug 21, 2009)

I think if you go out now and look at what is coming out of most cabinet factories today is going to be cope and stick joint with pocket hole screws. There has been a big swing toward pocket hole usage as of late. And not just in the face frames. I am seeing it more and more especially in large full overlay doors.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Thank you one and all for the very helpful comments.

I have cope and stick cutters for my combi machine shaper and I used them for the existing cabinet doors, but since no one had anything negative to say about the mitered half-lap joints, I think I will go with that. I used some router templates to do the Mitered half-laps on my shop cabinet doors and they worked real well. It's good to know that the half-laps are actually stronger than the cope and stick joints. Not so surprising though, considering the huge glue surface.


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## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Hi Mike,
I'm going with cope & stick for my skaker doors. A new neighbor of mine is a high end furniture maker (18th century)...and his work is exceptional! He's mentoring me. I've built typical cabinet carcasses from 3/4" ply and attached with Kreg pocket screws;really sturdy. My backs are also 3/4" ply. overkill I know…but its' my first woodworking project…so ignorance is bliss. Drop me a note for any information I can offer you.

Paul


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

I used cope and stick and then put loose tenons (Beadlock) in the joints. I don't think they will ever come apart.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I' m doing floating tenon mitered joints for my kitchen cabinet doors as well. I certainly prefer the look.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

We build a lot of doors and use cope and stick. But if i were doing my own i would prefer to use mitered joint.


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