# 1950's DeWalt MMB 23 RAS



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Its here!*

I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Pay and $100 dollars for it.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Great looking saw.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Great Score, CJ!!

We had one of these in our shop when I was in high school!

Lew


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


I want one!!!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


You're gonna' love it, *Charles* !

Let me know if I can help you with anything !


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## sawblade1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Nice score


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


great find. I like the metal knobs.

looks like you will be building a table.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Yes I will!


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Nice get.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Moving along nicely in the tool department…good buy…


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Yes I am!


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


I see a paint job in need of a saw. Good luck with it!


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## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


;0)


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## WoodBill (Jun 1, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Its here!*
> 
> I got a change to pick up the DeWalt RAS I been talking about from a woodworker in Atlanta. Got a change to tour his shop!  Its a diamond in the rough its runs great problemly needs new bearings, some cleaning, new power cord and maybe a new paint job.


Great score buddy, it'll clean up nice.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Took it apart for cleaning and painting*

I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Hey. You got an instruction manual !!

Charles: if you're going to clean those roller bearings, be VERY careful with WD-40.

WD-40 is an excellent degreaser. Those bearings contain (or SHOULD contain) ball bearings, and … GREASE.

If the bearings are not well sealed, you'll strip the grease out of them.

I'd just spray a rag, lightly with the WD, and use the rag to wipe the bearings, but don't spray the bearings directly.

Looking good !!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Yes I got it Neil!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


I think I wipe to much of the grease off.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


The grease on the outside SHOULD come off.

Don't worry about that.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Ok Neil.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Could I put some machine oil on the bearings?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


If you can, try to see if the bearings are sealed. If they're obviously sealed, then the machine oil won't get in there, and won't help.

If you can't tell, then you can put a drop on each one. It'll either seep in, and do some good, or … tomorrow … you'll just have to wipe it off ;-)


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


ok will, try that Neil when I start working on the motor.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Neil, someone told me I need miter lock handle? Do you see one on my?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Now that I look harder at the pictures … they might be right.

Take a look at this picture of mine … with the yoke and the motor taken off:










At the bottom of the picture, toward the right, is a ball-knob, on a lever.

That's what clamps the yoke in place. When you release the clamp-pulling it toward you-it allows you to pivot the motor.

Hmmmm.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Maybe I will have to look into it. Really cant check right now, since I have the saw apart.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


You DO have the king bolt.

What you seem to be missing is the lever.

It's really a ball … attached to a stick … with a big nut at the end.

The nut threads onto the king bolt-that big slotted thing in the center of the yoke.

And then there's a LONG set screw …. that's not threaded anywhere but at the very top. That set screw goes sideways into the yoke, and keeps the king bolt from turning, when you set and release the yoke clamp.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


Hey Charles, I am not sure what a Ras is, but there are a couple of bits of info I might be able to offer. I use to work on antiquated electromechanical devices, analog computers and such.

WD-40 is fantastic for cleaning but is not a long term lubricant. If you remove grease from inside replace it with fresh grease. Running with WD-40 as the only lubricant will result in equipment damage. The "WD" stands for Water Displacement, which is what WD-40 was originally developed to do.

If the bearings you speak of are not sealed and can be removed you can soak them in machine oil or motor oil for about 6 hours and any grit or trash inside the bearing will wash out. Pick them up periodically and try to spin them. It will help free the ball or needle bearings. Replacement bearing of the correct ID and OD are most likely available from a local industrial material supply house.

Good luck and have fun with your project.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Took it apart for cleaning and painting*
> 
> I took the motor off today, the roller bearings looks nasty but the spends freely so need to change them, I will try to clean them with WD 40. I Ran the motor today it sounds good but it took a few seconds for the blade to stop. I am going to repaint everything with Rustoleum hammed paint in a copper finish. You can use that paint over scratched, rusted or pitted metals.


RAS is a radial arm saw, someone suppose to be senting me a picture.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Repainting the RAS*

I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


Cool color, CJ!


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## woodzy (Jan 24, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


Nice. What was the original color, my father had one in his shop foryears it was a light green.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


kind of white looking.


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


That is an awesome color!!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


WOW, *Charles*:

Is that the same color that "Axl" (Myk Ryan) painted HIS, over on the Woodnet forum ??










Did you put down some primer, first ??

Beautiful color. I think "Axl's" is stunning !


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


I did not do a primer. The paint cant say no need for a primer.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


Great job on the painting! Looks new.


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## blockhead (May 5, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


If you keep that up Charles, it's going to be too nice to use. ; )


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


Just looked again, this morning.

That's just a beautiful color.

Nice pic. Nice job.

If I start feeling guilty, and feel like I have to re-paint mine … YOU are going to hear about it, Mister ;-)


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


Going to replace the power cord next.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


I don't remember.

Is yours a 1/4 HP motor ? 9.8 amps ??

If so …. you want to use 14 gauge, 3-conductor cord … if you didn't know.

One cheap way to do that is to go to the hardware store and buy a 14/3 extension cord. Just cut the female end off of it, and strip the ends of the wires.

You'll need two pieces: one from the wall to the switch, and one from the switch to the motor.

Just make sure you make a note of what's hooked up to which terminal !


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


Just checked. Looks like yours is a *1/2 HP*.

If that's right, then you're going to want to use 12gauge, 3-conductor wire (12/3).

Slightly more money, but … important. These are "continuous-duty" motors.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Repainting the RAS*
> 
> I done started repainting the radial arm saw, its looks much better than it did.  I am using a Rustoleum Copper Hammer Finish. Working on clean the post!


My is a 1/2 hp.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Motor Work!*

I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Motor Work!*
> 
> I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


*Charles*:

THIS should be a BIG help:

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=4983297


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Motor Work!*
> 
> I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


... but I can already see that you have four more screws to take off … visible in that top picture.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Motor Work!*
> 
> I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


I took the screws out already.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Motor Work!*
> 
> I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


You need a 3-arm puller. But really you need to read this from Kenteroo. It will show you just how to pull the caps to access the motor and motor bearing. Read the whole thing. Very good pictorial documentation.

http://dewalt925rebuild.blogspot.com/2009/12/day-2-motor.html


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Motor Work!*
> 
> I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


Ok, if its to much work I may have to take it to my local motor shop.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Motor Work!*
> 
> I am about to go in the RAS motor, So I am wondering how do you take the motor cover off?


If you don't have experience with motors I would go to a shop. One slip of a screw driver could reck the hole thing. Attempting disassembly without the correct tools can cause damage too.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*

I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*
> 
> I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


Probably a smart move, CJ. They can completely go over the motor and make it like new.

Lew


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*
> 
> I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


Smart money.

They can test it, make sure it isn't drawing too much voltage, pull the bearings much more easily than *I* did it, if needed, AND … shouldn't charge you too much.

Did they give you an estimate ??

Did you ask them to replace the circuit breaker, while they were in there ? It's almost surely 50+ years old. Might want to think about it.

Mine should be done on Monday <grin>


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*
> 
> I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


I did not ask about the circuit breaker! He about $20 to $25 to replace the cord.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*
> 
> I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


Make sure they test it, *Charles*.

If it's fine, then … you can decide if it's worth replacing.

If it's faulty (doesn't trip, when the rated amperage is exceeded), then you really should have them replace it.

Just know that … if the breaker is faulty, and the machine has a short circuit, you have to pray that your SHOP's breaker is working properly, otherwise … things could get bad :-(


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*
> 
> I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


Ok!


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Put my RAS Motor in the shop!*
> 
> I broke down and put the RAS motor in shop, I am going to let them put the power cord on there and check the bearings.


A professional shop is a good move. I recommend you have the motor and electrical parts checked completely. It might be a bit expensive but you will have a reliable machine that will last and provide many more years of trouble free service. They can identify components that are going bad and replacing them now will prevent the frustration of another tear down in the near future.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Clean the RAS Post today!*

I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


That's looking good!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


BIG difference !

You may want to finish the job with WD-40 and some 0000 steel wool … if you're interested


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


I put some WD-40 on there.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


Cool.

I was thinking that … with the 0000 steel wool AND WD … it will remove even more of the fine scratches, and leave an even nicer surface.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


It is turning out pretty awesome! Hope it tunes up nicely for you.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


I hope so!


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


I sure could've used one this weekend!!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Clean the RAS Post today!*
> 
> I put a little work into cleaning the post today! I used 120 and 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS!


What is ya building? Matt.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Got my motor back, but a problem!*

Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Got my motor back, but a problem!*
> 
> Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


Do you have a volt meter. Check the power at the switch and also at the3 motor. If the motor is good then the switch might be bad.

I'd hate to think that that was the problem all along.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Got my motor back, but a problem!*
> 
> Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


I dont have a volt meter.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Got my motor back, but a problem!*
> 
> Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


I see from an earlier post that the switch is on the motor so I assume that the motor shop checked it out also.

I'd guess it is a return trip unless it is in your wall power supply. Is it 120 or 220.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Got my motor back, but a problem!*
> 
> Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


Its and 120 volt saw. Yes they did Karson, I am kind worry I hope my motor is not screw up. I put to much work into it.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Got my motor back, but a problem!*
> 
> Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


Did the circuit breaker trip ?

Have you tried pushing the button ?

I sent you a PM with that idea, and mentioned that … even IF the breaker WAS tripped, and re-setting it DOES get the motor started again … I wouldn't run it until you've had them take it apart, to see what's wrong.

My guess: something's rubbing. Friction > heat > excessive amperage draw > circuit breaker tripping.

You can get a working volt meter, incidentally, for like $3 or $5, at Harbor Freight. An important tool-particularly if you're thinking about restoring other old iron !


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Got my motor back, but a problem!*
> 
> Got my motor back from the shop, it ran awhile but it stop coming back on. I had new bearings and new power cord put on there.


Yes I did push the button It still did not work!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Getting closer!*

I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


----------



## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


Glad things are working for you Charles. Nice looking machine. Please satisfy my curiosity though (I am have been lurking on this one) what was the issue they resolved?

David


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


Agreed !

Inquiring minds (and me !) want to know.

The saw is looking GREAT !!!

And … I'm guessing … will cut a WHOLE LOT better with a motor that actually works !

[I know: people who live in glass houses …. ;-)]


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


The motor was overheating that reason it cut off. And the bearing had push itself out that was causing the overheating.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


Ahhhhh.

Well THAT's not good.

Good that it got fixed, though !


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


Hey, *Charles* ....

Off topic, but …

Have you thought about just ducting your dust collector (I see it in the corner, and it reminded me) to the OUTSIDE ?

I mean … your shed is not heated or air-conditioned, right ? That's the usual thing to be concerned about, if you DO duct your DC to the outside, but … for you …. you could just install a dryer vent, use a chip separator between your tools and the DC, and then …. put a piece of hose between the DC and the dryer vent, and …. not ever have to worry about breathing fine sawdust, again.

Just a thought. Your cartridge filter is excellent, but … in theory … it's still not as good as just blowing the dust outside the shed !


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> I got my motor back today, The motor shop slove the motor problem. The pictures tells the story! will post a video later.


My shop is not heated or air conditioned. I thought about that Neil.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Video of my RAS running!*

Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.

http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


I turned the volume up, on my computer speakers, but … I didn't see the link to the video.

Did you include it ?

I'm excited to hear this thing run !


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


By the way, Charles ….

Time to stop calling it a "1950's" saw.

Here's where you can try to find the actual year it was made, from the serial number of the saw:

LINK

Cool, huh ?


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Neil here is the link http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


EXCELLENT !!!

And it took a NICE long time for the blade to spin down, to a stop.

Congratulations !!!

Table time ??


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Yes Neil.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


I need to look at the serial number.


----------



## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Put some lumber under that blade, and lets see how she cuts!!!


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


After you finish the table , it looks like you've got a great saw there : ) Congratulations !!
If you've never used a RAS before , please be extra careful about starting your cuts and be sure to use a blade meant for your particular saw : )


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


I will.


----------



## lwoodt (Dec 22, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Very cool.Dont cut that plane in half.


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## MNWOODWORKER (Aug 1, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Very nice!! All those who seem to hate RAS are sure missing out!
Nate


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Sweet!

You might want to move that hand plane though…


----------



## sawblade1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Video of my RAS running!*
> 
> Here is a video of my DeWalt MMB 23 running. It has new bearings and new power cord.
> 
> http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/beginnerwoodworker/?action=view&current=100_2452.mp4


Sounds nice  
you might have a knack for machine maintenance


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Cabinet idea's for my RAS!*

I am wondering would Home Depot 3/4'' Birch or Oak Plywood be good for a radial arm saw cabinet?


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Cabinet idea's for my RAS!*
> 
> I am wondering would Home Depot 3/4'' Birch or Oak Plywood be good for a radial arm saw cabinet?


If it doesn't warp when you cut it, it should work. I think I would frame out the cabinet with 2 x stock to beef it up- the saw is pretty heavy.

Lew


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Cabinet idea's for my RAS!*
> 
> I am wondering would Home Depot 3/4'' Birch or Oak Plywood be good for a radial arm saw cabinet?


made mine out of particle board








the wing folds down

whatever fits your budget


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Cabinet idea's for my RAS!*
> 
> I am wondering would Home Depot 3/4'' Birch or Oak Plywood be good for a radial arm saw cabinet?


I've got to get me a radial arm saw!!!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Cabinet idea's for my RAS!*
> 
> I am wondering would Home Depot 3/4'' Birch or Oak Plywood be good for a radial arm saw cabinet?


Matt they are good to have.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Roller bearings need adjusting?*

I am wondering do my DeWalt RAS roller bearings need adjusting? Because my RAS wont's to roll on it's own to the front of the saw, I am not using it till I figure how to fix that.


----------



## sawblade1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Roller bearings need adjusting?*
> 
> I am wondering do my DeWalt RAS roller bearings need adjusting? Because my RAS wont's to roll on it's own to the front of the saw, I am not using it till I figure how to fix that.


Radial arm saws are not supposed to roll on their own to the front due to three reasons 
1. If you are lining up a cut and it accidentally rolls forward it could kick the board up into you and pull your hand into the blade.
2. It would be very annoying and unsafe if the carriage crept during operation and if you weren't careful you could wind up accidentally contacting the blade. 
3. A drifting saw could accidentally catch and destroy the blade (believe me I seen this happen in high school shop class) and throw pieces of carbide and other metal at yo or around your shop.

OSHA and most radial arm saw Mfrs say that once the carriage is released by the operator the saw carriage must return to the rear on it's own either through a auto return or the saw being shimmed up in the front to cause the drift backward.

P.S. I have the OSHA standards for general industry book where I backed up the info I just give you 
BTW 921 pages and very boring


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Roller bearings need adjusting?*
> 
> I am wondering do my DeWalt RAS roller bearings need adjusting? Because my RAS wont's to roll on it's own to the front of the saw, I am not using it till I figure how to fix that.


if i'm not mistaken
the bearings have a off center bolt
and turning them will tighten/loosen the bearings

you can also tilt the saw back some

put a door type spring to pull it back

have a weight on a roller at the back
that comes up when you pull the saw forwards
and takes it back
when released


----------



## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Roller bearings need adjusting?*
> 
> I am wondering do my DeWalt RAS roller bearings need adjusting? Because my RAS wont's to roll on it's own to the front of the saw, I am not using it till I figure how to fix that.


I agree with Patron.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Building a RAS table?*

I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


----------



## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


You can join my "out of funds club" !
(It's coming along good Charles.)


----------



## edthewoodworker (Feb 15, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Here is a page of how to, that I used for my table. Hope it helps you…I cut three pieces for the top from a 2' X 4' sheet of 3/4" MDF. Since the old top was 32" long I decided to make the new one the same as space is limited. 
The main section is 17 1/2" wide, the fillers are 1 1/2" and 5 1/2" wide, the panel was actually 24 1/2" wide, otherwise the main section would have been only 17". There was not enough material to make the 1 1/2" strip for the fence so I used some plywood that I had.

To locate the main table I removed the blade guard and swung the motor to the in-rip position with the pointer at 0 on the in-rip scale and locked the motor in position. I raised the blade so the table would just pass under it and aligned the edge of the table with the inside of the blade. I placed a straight edge against the inside of the blade and lined up the table so it was parallel to the blade. I then marked the position to drill the holes for the front two mounting bolts. I selected a position in the center of the slot nearest the end of the brackets. I then removed the table, drilled a 1/8" hole at each mark, then from the top I drilled 5/8" holes 3/8 of an inch deep for the bolt heads, then drilled 1/4" holes for the bolts. I then mounted the table to the brackets with 1/4" X 1 1/4" carriage bolts.

To double check if the table was level, I removed the blade and turned the motor on end so the shaft was pointing down toward the table, with the motor fully extended to the outside and the arm at 90 degrees I lowered the shaft down on to a plywood block until it just fit snuggly between the end of the shaft and the table, then checked it at the inside edge of the table. I then rotated the arm to 45 degrees and checked the inside and outside of the table edges, then the opposite side. I was lucky the top was actually level despite the makeshift brackets. 
I then replaced the blade and the guard, inserted my new fence and the two filler strips, plugged the saw in and selected a decent looking scrap 1 X 6 and made a test cut. I set the height of the blade just above the table so it would not cut all the way through the material. I checked the cut with a square that I know is accurate, tweaked the position of the table by tightening the clamp on the side that had to be moved back and checked again and continued in this manner until the cut was perfectly square. 
I then measured from the outer edge of the table to a spot toward the inside edge of the table from underneath to position a hole that would be drilled through the metal in the support between the slots. With a square on the top I marked the positions of the two holes, drilled a 3/8" deep 5/8" holes, then 1/4" holes through both the top and the support bracket. This was so the top would not slide out of true when the clamps were tightened to hold the fillers and the fence in the future.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


CJ,
I used to have a craftsman radial arm. Here is a link to the assembly diagrams- they may give you some ideas.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Saw-Parts/Model-11329410/0247/0744500?blt=05

Lew


----------



## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I've seen some factory models that were also long like for modern mitre saws… Just an idea.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Charles:

The Mr. Sawdust table is 32" wide x 17" deep. I used two pieces of 3/4" hardwood plywood for mine, though he recommends either that, marine plywood, or (not his recommendation, I think, but a great idea) MDF.

I'd use MDF.

You cut dadoes in the top AND bottom piece, and then put bar stock, lengthwise, in the dadoes.

Then, you sandwich the bar stock, IN the dadoes, between the two sheets, and glue them together with construction adhesive.

You set HEAVY weights on top, and let the glue dry for 24hrs.

Then, mark and drill and counterbore your holes, to allow your fasteners to attach the table to the RAS frame.

After attaching the table, you cut a sheet of 1/4" plywood 32" wide x 17-3/4" deep. This gives you 1/8" clear at the back (leaving a sawdust channel by the fence) and at the front.

I tacked my sacrificial top down with brads, but some people recommend using rubber cement and counter-sunk brass tacks (in case you DO happen to hit one with the blade).

It makes for an excellent table.

I ran the bar stock the wrong way, by accident (no big deal), but … here's what mine looks like:










You then have to add back boards that will run between the rear bolts and the fence. You screw the bolts in, to tighten the back boards up against the fence, and the fence up against the table.

This keeps everything snug and square.

My fence is 2-1/2" high.

If you want to go this way, and need any other measurements, let me know.

Incidentally, I just ordered all new fasteners, today, for the table. I'm using 5/16-18TPI set screws and socket head cap screws, in zinc-coated alloy steel. Jam nuts, flat washers, and lock washers will keep everything in place.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Neil I think my table is to short.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Charles, Take a look at Patrons RAS table. Lots of ideas there. Rand


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Ok!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


*Rand* is REALLY right.

If I were smarter, and took better notes, and took a bunch of my OWN pictures, AND … if he let me [;-)] ... I would have built exactly what Patron built.

[Actually, if he didn't have Buddy the Fearsome WatchDog … I would have thrown HIS table in the back of my car (LOL !)]

David's table looks like … it makes it EASY to do pretty much everything you WILL do, with an RAS.

AND … he stuck a darned router underneath one END of it. How smart was that ???

The Mr. Sawdust table, for me, was simple, though. The instructions were right there, for me to follow.

But if you can look at David's pictures, and simply build what HE did … you would definitely be happy with the outcome !


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I will take a look at David table.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


When I think RAS, I think Neil^ above. I can't stop staring at your SAW, ignoriing the table. I wish you the best!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Al, I love my RAS!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


By the way, *Charles* .... a couple things come to mind:

1) At first, I was trying to make my table *level*, but … realized … it's not *supposed to be* "level." It's supposed to be flat, and parallel to the radial arm, and the plane that the motor/yoke travels in. Duh !

2) I have a Harbor Freight dial indicator and magnetic base. I stuck the magnetic base on the underside of my motor, and …. using the dial indicator … swung the radial arm every which way, AND moved the motor all up and down the travel OF the radial arm. THAT was how I found high spots, low spots, and which way to tilt my mounting struts.

Made it VERY easy, and my table is now VERY flat !

Keep us posted, huh ?


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I will Neil, I am thinking about screwing my table into the rails?


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I bought that MasterPlate after someone's advice, I think it may have been Neil. For $50, I think it's a good investment, especially if this isn't your last vintage tool. 
BWW: I love mine too! I'm manufacturing excuses to use it & my cross clut sled is looking at me condescendingly; screw him, I made him; I can ignore him.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Yeah. I was/am a big fan of that MasterPlate. Haven't used it on the TS, yet, but … for as many finicky adjustments as the RAS needs … I found it to be a HUGE help.

As to the crosscut sled:

a) Yeah. I have two, and mutiny is in the air;
b) "Screw him?" I'd go with dowels or biscuits, but … you know … personal preference ;-)

*Charles*: you COULD screw the table to the rails, but … I'm not sure why you wouldn't use the existing hardware. Did yours come with all the necessary hardware (fasten the table to the rails, fasten the rails to the base-WITH raise/lower capability) ?

Also … obviously … you counter-sink your fasteners that attach the table TO the rails, and THEN … put a sacrificial top ON the table, either countersinking THOSE fasteners or-better-using BRASS flat-head wood screws, AND counter-sinking them.

If the blade hits brass … no big deal.

I used 18ga brads to attach the top to the table, and a nail set to bury them. I also didn't put any in the obvious line of crosscutting.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I am misting some hardware Neil. What kind of screws should I use Neil?


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I'm just going to paste my notes … from one of the DeWalt restoration guides/books-I don't remember which one.

I bought them all, and received them, but … it was the day I tacked down my sacrificial top, so … I won't put them on for a few months.

Here ya' go:

5/16" Socket Cap Screws (through and fastening bolts)

-(6)

```
1-1/4" length            
--(6)
```
 2-1/2" length

5/16" Set Screws (flush mounted jack bolts)

-(6)

```
1-1/4" length        <br />--(6)
```
 2-1/2" length

5/16" Jam Nuts (instead of regular) for Jacking and locking the screws (30 or so)

Flat Washers - 5/16" (18)

Lock Washers - 5/16" (18)

BRASS wood screws, to fasten top to table 
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=3&cs=34&cm=4&cd=432


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Cool! those brass screws would could wood a metal.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


"those brass screws would could wood a metal."

Amen, Charles.

Amen.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I went brass with my top for the same reason. I used a piece of maple flooring for the fence.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


You have to pre drill right?


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


wow, that's some good info for such a quick response.

One thing to note it that if you go to the parts diagram on the OWWM.com website, they tend to list out the parts in a parts list below the schematics. This might be helpful if you have a slightly different model saw.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


i wish i thought of the screw. I bought brass brad nails based on the Mr Sawdust book, but I think I might need to reconsider.

To put brass screws into just about anything, you will definitely want to predrill.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Ok thanks!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Yes. Pre-drill.

I'm not sure there's ever any downside to doing it, but there sure is downside to NOT doing it ;-)

And … while you're at it … drill your counterbores, too, so you can sink the heads below the level of the surface.

Ideally, since Mr. Sawdust (and others) want you to put your first cut, into your sacrificial top, 1/8" deep (in a 1/4" thick top), you should try to sink the screw heads just a bit over 1/8" below sea level 

*HokieMojo*: Meh. If you use a nail set to drive them underground a bit, I can't see anything wrong with brass nails, either, short of removal and re-insertion, but … there's not a HECK of a lot of reason to do that very often.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Thanks for the advise Neil.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Neil's the RAS dude. I take that stuff as gospel before and after getting my RAS.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


The list of People I've Got Conned is officially begun.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Yes he is, Al. Neil is my DeWalt MMB 23 RAS to heavy to put on a cabinet with wheels?


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


My concern with the nails is my propensity to bend them or hit my fingers when trying NOT to bend them (-:

Also, if I miss, it will put a dent in my sacrificial table. Just kidding. I realize that doesn't matter.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


*Charles*: you just have to buy casters that can support enough weight.

I bought a set of 4 at Harbor Freight. They support something like $30 for all. They support up to 330lbs each, so …. 1,320 pounds for all four.

That's PLENTY strong enough. You can even get cheaper casters that support 125lbs each, for probably $5/each … at your local hardware store.

Or, you can spend more money, and get 8" tires that hold air, and have knobby treads, for when you take the RAS off-roading ;-)










I think that's a safe lower end-500 lbs total capacity. That should be enough for your saw, your cabinet, and the stock you're cutting.

For ME, though … the couple extra bucks to get TWICE the capacity … was pretty well spent.

Also, if you plan to make your cart truly mobile, it's good to get TWO casters with brakes, and two casters without brakes. If you put the brakes in the front, they're easier to get to. Two brakes will keep the cabinet from moving, when you set them.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


Ok, Neil.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


one thing to note though is that I think the HF wheels are rubber. If they sit for an extended period of time with weight on them, they will develop flat spots. I think they will still roll, but my experience is that it is a pretty bumpy ride and that "might" not be ok when trying to keep the settings accurate on a RAS.

Polyurethane wheels seem to resist getting flat spots much better (although it can still happen if you really load them up). I'm partial to those, but they cost more. I found a really decent source on ebay a while back and can look it up if you are interested. The best I've used are the woodcraft ones. I plan to use those for my saw in the future, but I don't think I'd pay that price again. Definitely wait till they are on sale (which is often). 4 of those would give you a total capacity of 1,200 lbs. I don't think you'd go over that with your saw.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Building a RAS table?*
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to go about building the RAS Table? I dont have Mr Sawdust book as I ran out of funds. So I am trying to wing it.


I see the polyurethane wheels are good!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*

I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


----------



## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


I gotta get me a RAS!!!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


Matt they are good to have!


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


CJ. I think it's a great idea to build a cabinet for your saw. You will have a bunch of storage and it will hopefully make things easier to move around. One thing you may want to consider though. I think your cabinets/stands will be stronger if you set the top on top of the sides. The way you have it now, all the weight is supported by fasteners and/or glue. If you put the top so that it rests on the sides, it would not be so dependent on the joint.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


Yes that what someone told me. I am going to add blocking to support the joint.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


RASs rule. Mine's on some gigantic legs and I've got to tell you, they take up a ton of space. I should probably build a cabinet like yours.


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


CL, that's a good start to a stand. I like them simple.

Don't forget to have wheels on the base, your gona

have to roll it out to your new workshop this summer!!!!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


Looks good, *Charles*.

But … to *HokieMojo*'s point …. can you add at least one shelf, and probably two, IN the cabinet ??

If you attach fastening cleats, allowing you to screw the shelf into the cleat, and the cleat into the cabinet, I think you'll get a LOT more strength to resist racking.

In other words … because these DeWalts are SO heavy … I'm worried about the tendency of that cabinet to want to collapse under the weight, as the joints try to pull apart.

You could cross-brace the back. The face frame should help. There are probably a LOT of ways to do this.

I think LOTS of other LumberJocks know MUCH more about this than I do, but … when I look at that picture … I get concerned.

Folks ?? Don't be afraid to tell me I'm wrong, if I am


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


I understand, Neil.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


As it stands (no pun intended), I would assume the DeWalt would crush it flat. I assumed that there was going to be a good bit of bracing and bracketry going on. If there's ever a project that demands to be overbuilt, it's a stand for a vintage RAS. I know how heavy my 10" Craftsman is, and I can only imagine that the DeWalt is even heavier. Do you have access to a welder? I might be inclined to use steel reinforcements. The thought of that thing falling off the stand makes we weep softly. Good luck!


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


That cabinet is going to be a real Plus and will make that saw much more user friendly. Good job. What are you going to do about a saw table?


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Started to work on a RAS cabinet!*
> 
> I started to work on a RAS Cabinet today! Its butt joints, glue and pocket hole screws. I need to add a face frame next. I got a half sheet left to make the top for the RAS.


I am going to use two sheets of plywood for the top.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Stand update!*

How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


look's good charles

you might want to get some brass screws to hold it together

other than that a brace under the left wing
or another box


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Nice Job, CJ!

Are you going to put any type of support under the left side? Just in case you have any long, heavy pieces to cut- the table/saw would be less likely to tip.

Just a thought.

Lew

Edit- I was writing while David was posting!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Yes I am thinking about adding a brace, on the left wing.


----------



## sawblade1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Nice job


----------



## secureplay (Jun 3, 2010)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Great job… if/when you feel inspired, how about a "futurist" look for the stand to match the RAS? Buck Rogers would be proud!


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Looks good Charles. Another addition might be to add a stop block. Route a channel and countersink a piece of T-track to one side of the blade about an inch from the fence. Make a stop from a block of wood and use a toilet bolt to secure it.


----------



## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


SWEET!!


----------



## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Lookin' good


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Looks great, very classic piece.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


Kind of wish I use dado and rabbets. I just hope those pocket hole screws hold up.


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Stand update!*
> 
> How this cabinet looks? I need to get some brass screws to screw the top to the RAS rails.


You are all over it CJ. Looks good and you probably have a better tool than if you had bought a new one. I think the cabinet will be a real plus to your shop. I would put a door on it to keep dust out. Make sure it is stable when you have a long piece of stock on it before you start cutting.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*New table!*

I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


----------



## WoodBill (Jun 1, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Nice RAS! Why did you decide to use poplar and what thickness?
Looks nice tho. I've still got to make the table for mine.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Looks like a nice heavy table, CJ


----------



## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


SWEET!!!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Its more stable than plywood. Its about 1 1/4'' thick


----------



## auggy53 (Jan 23, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


nice looking saw , i have a 60's something that needs a new table . maybe soon.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


don't forget the sacrificial top!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Wow, Charles.

It's almost too pretty to cover with a sacrificial top, but … I gotta' agree … you kinda' DO want to do it.


----------



## WoodBill (Jun 1, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


How thick should a sacrificial top be? 1/4, 1/2?


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


I'd go with 1/4", and then … when you have your saw fully aligned … cut a 1/8" deep groove into the sacrificial top, through your fence, and along the length of the radial arm (a crosscut).

I think it was "Mr. Sawdust" who recommended that you continue that cut, swiveling the motor/arbor at the end OF the crosscut, and then doing a push-plow cut, all the way back TO your fence.

I did this on mine. Made a WHOPPER of a mess, but … turned out pretty well ;-)


----------



## WoodBill (Jun 1, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Thanks Niel.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Yes its to pretty to cover up!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Cut into it! No sacrificial top! Doing that is like putting a bed liner in your new pickup - Why? So the next guy can have a nice new truck? 

Let it accumulate all the character it wants, I say. But, alas, mine is a minority opinion… But, Nice Top and Well Done!


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


I can't see does it have a nice saw safety guard that tends to be the problem with these old saws no guard .May it's just my eyes or a bad photo angle but I didn't see one. Alistair ps otherwise nice piece of history


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Alistair, my Craftsman has a guard that you mainually lift over your short fence. It drops by gravity behind the fence and keeps the saw from moving foreward. I actually feel pretty safe using it (which is probably a bad thing) but it's true; it's coming right at you, spinning loudly.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


While you can do what you want, but the sacrificial top is not to preserve the looks. It should work just like a zero clearance insert on a table saw. After you make several angle cuts (or have made 90 degree cuts for a long time) the kerf you cut into the top will gradually widen. When this happens, you will start to get tear out and/or lose a bit of precision. If you install a sacrificial top, you can just replace it and still have a wonderful and flat table top. If you don't, you will need to rebuild the whole thing all over again. If it were me, I'd spend $5 now and save a bunch of time and money in the future. I'm going to put a sacrificial top on the MDF table I'm building, so this really has nothing to do with preserving looks.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Alistair, the guard on the old dewalts have the dust port attached. You can see the rubber hose right in front of the blade, so that shows that the guard is installed. I dont' think you would ever want to use one of these without the guard. Even without the safety consideration, it would throw a lot of dust right in your face.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Scot it has a blade guard, the blade guard is part that has the black hose attached.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


@Hokie - That's the first time I've ever heard that a sacrificial top reduces tear out on a RAS. Literature refers to tops being 'worn out' (?) or 'needing replacement,' but nothing more. Very interesting, I'll have to consider your point. Maybe someone else who's used a RAS for years would add their view - I've only been a user for a couple of years, tops, and researched all I could before deciding the original maple top on my DeWalt didn't need replacement (as beat up as it is).


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


Smitty,
I certainly don't claim to know all there is about the RAS. One guy who you may have heard of (Wally Kunkel aka Mr Sawdust) seems to be the consensus expert on the DEWALT radial arm saws. He wrote a book that talks about how the original saws came with beautiful maple tops, but that they get torn to bits relatively fast. He has a whole chapter related to replacing/upgrading the tables. The dewalt radial arm saw forums at delphi (you can google "delphi dewalt radial arm saw") has a ton of great info too with some wonderfully helpful people.

If I were lucky enough to have an original table, I'd certainly keep it. I might even surface it down to make it pretty again. Once I did that though, I'd probably put a sacrificial top over it assuming the original was still dead flat. I'd think a sheet of 1/2" mdf would work really well, held in by a few brass nails or screws (won't damage a blade if you hit them by accident).

Again, not an expert, but just sharing my research findings and current opinions. I'd add that if what you are doing works for you, thats all that really matters and it's a lot less work!!! (-:


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *New table!*
> 
> I am going to start from stratch with a new table for my RAS. I am using 6/4 Poplar, the table is 36''x13''. The guys told me at DeWalt fourm what machine screw size I need. I found two holes in rails for to install the machine screws. The size are 5/16" 18.


@Hokie - This is where typing doesn't work as well as speaking, but I don't want you to think I was dismissing your input at all! I read as much as I could from Mr Sawdust short of buying the book, and there are bunches of folks who swear by his instructions on building replacement tops for their DeWalts. If i'd do that, it be per his instruction. He really is the last word in DeWalt RAS maintenance, for sure.

That the top on my saw is beat up, no doubt. It's not so bad that material doesn't sit flat and stable, throwing off the cut. I've flattened it with a #8 jointer and I like that it's original. Just hadn't heard that a sacrificial top helps reduce tear out, that's all. And I like your idea of an overlay of sorts on the original of mine. Just may do that someday. Thanks!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

*Top is finish!*

I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


looking good charles

great new re-build

enjoy


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Looks good!!! Great job!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Ah, you're using the top! Good for you! Well done, looks great, and may many great projects come from her!


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## WoodBill (Jun 1, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


A good top for some good work.
A beauty to make some beauties.


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## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Looks good. You may have found your calling, refurbishing old machinery! ;0)


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Usually , I like to see the girls top come off !!
But this girl is better with her top on.
Great job


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Nicely done Charles!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Thanks guys!


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## grandpaj (Jan 20, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Cliff I can see right now we are on same page I have a 1956 De Walt saw. Been in family for the duration. Never had to do any thing to it except take care of it and turn it on


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## grandpaj (Jan 20, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


http://kregjig.ning.com/photo/albums/my-humble-shop
Cliff here is my shop and saw


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Nice looking old RAS,Charles. You can do a lot of good work on one of them. A RAS was my first saw and I built a lot of decks , cabinets and my old 1910 telephone cabinets on it. I still have it and would not part with it. It is my dedicated dado station these days.

They tend to throw a lot of dust out the back so I built a full catcher around the back with a chute that drops the dust down into a detachable bag. That get a 95% of the mess I used to have.

My saw is a Craftsman and I have to check the squareness before I use it each time to make sure that arm did not get bumped. It does not take much of a bump for them to cut off 1/64 in that length.i


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


I would like to use my RAS for dadoing and crosscutting.


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## grandpaj (Jan 20, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


I have a 1956 DeWalt RAS and it is a true cutting fool.Just keep it clean ,It has been in family since it was new so I no mine has been taken care of,Even have the steel accessory box with attachments for saw.Mine is speckled light green and off white in color


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


thats a nice top Charles!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Its has some cuts in it now LOL! But that top will last for awhile.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Nice looking top. I need a new one for my old '50s RAS too.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Thanks! I love my old RAS!


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## JDC53 (Jul 5, 2011)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


What a classic saw!! Hang onto that one. Very nice looking top, I bet you will give it a workout.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


I do give it a workout, I make 90% of my crosscut and angle cuts on it.


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## woodchic (Mar 17, 2009)

Beginningwoodworker said:


> *Top is finish!*
> 
> I finish installing my RAS top today, all I need to do now is tune her up!


Awesome!!


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