# Made a Huge OOPS!!! HELP ...---... ...---...



## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

Long story short,

I'm making 16 pull-out shelves for the in-laws. I'm making them as if they were drawers using box joint construction and full extension slides. The sides are solid 3/4 birch and the base is 1/2 birch ply. (per request)

Of the 16 drawers there are 5 different widths but they are all 22" deep overall

I just got done sanding them and they look beautiful for being my first time making drawers of this caliber. Unfortunately I some how *completely forgot to subtract 1/2" for each slide* (1" overall).

I was thing of trying to get away with using under mount slides or even notching for the side slides but that doesn't leave much material to attach slides…

Is there a way to salvage this project or am I totally SOL?

Here is a SketchUp showing the overview and a modified cutaway view showing the joint dimensions and bottom location.


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## WoodES (Oct 8, 2013)

If you have vertical clearance, try undermount drawer glides… There are a lot of choices, google for your options.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hettich-21-in-Under-Mount-Soft-Close-Full-Extension-Quadro-IW21-Silent-System-Slide-H9134329/300539544?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c&gclid=CIHetP290tICFYuVfgodqYQN8Q&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Been there done that. I made new drawers through gritted teeth.


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

Thanks!
I have unlimited* vertical clearance, I'll have to see if I can find some for 22" drawers.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

You could try cutting 1" off of one side, recutting the finger joints and reassembling.

The Blum undermounts are awesome, but they need 1/2" clearance under the drawer bottom and it's easiest if you design everything around them. You might get lucky and be able to make them fit. Loot at the 563/563H.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Undermounts aren't going to work. They're made for 21" depth "certain" side clearances, and most require 1/2" bottom space for the clips.
It would take a lot of modifications to make them work.

Only fix I could see *without having to redo all the finger joints*:
Notch out the back so that you could remove the bottom
Cut the drawer in half taking 3" out of the middle. Splice in a 2" wide piece of contrasting material.
Recut the bottom to fit and slide back in, secure it by nailing it to the back edge

In other words make it look like you wanted it that way.









EDIT:
Maybe add some design to the splice.


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

> Undermounts aren t going to work. They re made for 21" depth "certain" side clearances, and most require 1/2" bottom space for the clips.
> It would take a lot of modifications to make them work.
> 
> Only fix I could see *without having to redo all the finger joints*:
> ...


That's a good idea!


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Are these pullouts behind doors? If so, did you consider the type of hinge? Depending on your answer, i might follow up. ....... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Is there enough tolerance on the sides for wood slides and a stop dado on the drawer? What are these fitting into?


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

> Are these pullouts behind doors? If so, did you consider the type of hinge? Depending on your answer, i might follow up. ....... Jerry (in Tucson)
> 
> - Nubsnstubs


yes these are behind doors. hinges are Blum® Compact Soft-Close BLUMotion Overlay Hinge. I think I can work around hinges by either cutting drawers shorter OR cutting a dado the width of the protruding part of hinge… if that makes sense?



> Is there enough tolerance on the sides for wood slides and a stop dado on the drawer? What are these fitting into?
> 
> - builtinbkyn


these are going into face frame cabinets. although there is enough clearance on the sides, they (in-laws) specifically want a metal / roller / etc type slides as they will be getting a lot of use.


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

This may be my answer…


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## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

Watching (with interest!)


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I've got to build some really narrow, but long drawers. Every fraction of an inch counts. As such, I'm going to bury the slides 1/4" (probably more like 3/16", to allow play between the drawer and the support) in the cabinet supports and the drawers. On drawers with 3/4" sides, that would leave 1/2" of drawer side. Of course, I'd have to notch the styles too to pull it off.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

I used to have a program that typed morse code


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

harvey4804,

You indicated that you have good clearance on each side of the drawers for undermount slides, if I read your subsequent response to some these posts correctly. If not, then some modification of the carcase and/or drawers could be required.

Like TungOil, I have noted that the undermount slides require ½" clearance from the underside of the drawer bottom to the bottom edge of the drawer. Your diagram shows only ¼" clearance. The front, back, and sides of the drawer boxes could be increased by gluing ¼" birch shim strips on the bottom edges of the drawer boxes. If the shim strip makes the drawer too tall, then some material would have to be removed from the top edges of the drawer boxes.

I suppose you could attempt to rout a ¼" deep channel on the underside of the drawer bottom to accept the slides. But that could be difficult and weaken the drawer bottom.

I use Knapp and Vogt MuV34 undermount drawer slides. These are designed for ¾" thick drawer boxes. The manufacturer offers a variety of lengths including a 22" slide (slide length). You can click on the Product Specifications and Installation instructions buttons and get an idea of the requirements for the carcase and the drawer boxes.

http://www.directdoorhardware.com/kv-muv-soft-close-undermount-drawer-slide-muvb34-22.htm


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

Accuride makes a wonderful slide for this opps moment …...but for the life of me I cant remember the name or number of them …as we used mostly Blum slides in our cabinets …..GOOD LUCK :<))


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## WoodES (Oct 8, 2013)

Please post your final solution.

I have defined many of my projects, not by the quality of the workmanship, but, by how well I hide the mistakes…..


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

Ok, I'm confident that I'll be able to salvage these drawers!!!

It is going to be painstakingly slow and tedious however, it will work and I'll be happy with the outcome.

Here's what going on:
For the past day or so, I've thought of the numerous suggested solutions to this ordeal: 
- Re-make the 14 drawers.
- Buy different style slides.
- Make custom brackets to mount drawer above slides.
- Cut in half and splice back together.
I've decided to go with TungOil's suggestion: cut off one side of each drawer and reduce the overall width by 1", re-cut the joints, cut an inch off bottom and re-assemble.









Unfortunately re-cutting the box joints on the side piece is near impossible to get perfect. This is due to the sanding after assembly.









As you can see the dado is now visible on the side, I'm good with that, the drawer slide will be covering it up.









So, since the side piece will be so difficult to get *just right* I'm just going to re-cut them.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

On the positive side, you'll never forget to account for hardware again…. even the self taught have to pay a price for education!


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## PJKS (Dec 21, 2016)

Dado on each side to recieve the slide…


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> On the positive side, you ll never forget to account for hardware again…. even the self taught have to pay a price for education!
> 
> - ChefHDAN


I was thinking the same thing. I always told my kids "some of life's lessions are hard" I've been there done that.

One other good lesson make a prototype to finish. I did that same thing with a door once. Ripped the style off pulled the panels out and redid. What a pain.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I'm glad you are able to salvage the parts. We have all made these kinds of mistakes, often they end with a complete rebuild which is really frustrating (and costly!).

I learned the hard way that planning these projects all the way through before cutting any wood is time well spent, since I often find little interferences that are not obvious at first. New tools like Sketchup are great for this, but it takes time to learn how to use them. That is time well spent.


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