# Veneered Sofa Table



## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Getting prepared, wrecking tools*

While I am waiting for the finish to cure on my tray project, I started my next adventure. I am building a sofa table to match, approximately, the end tables that I made last year (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22185).










I started by sketching out a design on paper with some basic measurements. Usually I get a little more detailed and do a scale drawing (I use MS powerpoint). Since I plan to match the end tables, I need a little less design detail and paper will do.










Begin with stock preparation by selecting stock and marking out rough cuts










Start by jointing one face and then one edge.










In the process of face jointing the final couple of pieces, I killed my bench top jointer. The outfeed adjust has always been loose and it slipped lower, taking a 1/8" cut rather than a 1/32" cut I started with. I got frustrated and tried to force the cut, which stripped the belt from the motor to the cutter. Dumb, dumb, dumb … frustration is always a bad idea when dealing with shop tools.

I ended up buying a free standing, second hand 6" Rigid jointer to replace it and I am amazed by what I have been missing. Much nicer to use. Expensive lesson in patience.










Having two sides prepped, I then use the planer to bring the stock to final thickness.










Next step …. veneering the top.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Getting prepared, wrecking tools*
> 
> While I am waiting for the finish to cure on my tray project, I started my next adventure. I am building a sofa table to match, approximately, the end tables that I made last year (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22185).
> 
> ...


Really nice work on the end tables. Lovely use of veneer.

I don't even own a jointer… er… uh… unless you count my #607 and #608 Bedrocks. I've gotten good at face jointing by hand. Then I flip it and run it through my planer. Voila. Of all the power tool injuries that I've read about and seen have been at the power jointer. I guess it's just a simple tool that doesn't look like it could do much damage. WRONG! I know one guy who fed both palms to his when the board caught and shot out from under his hands. It was on a 12" commercial jointer and he was NOT using the push pads. Lesson learned at the expense of a couple of years worth of skin grafts.

So be careful with that thing and keep up the beautiful work.

always,
J.C.

BTW, I live in Lakeland, where do you get your lumber and veneer? I've bought some from Craftsman Supply on Busch Blvd.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Getting prepared, wrecking tools*
> 
> While I am waiting for the finish to cure on my tray project, I started my next adventure. I am building a sofa table to match, approximately, the end tables that I made last year (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22185).
> 
> ...


J.C.

Thank you for the comments.

With regards to material sources in Tampa, I buy most of my lumber from InterCity Lumber on Causeway Blvd. I really like Craftsman but they are a little expensive but do have good turning stock. Occasionally I will head down to Clearwater to get specialty items from Woodcraft, including veneer.

However, my best source of veneer remains eBay.

Shawn


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## HokieScott (Jun 20, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Getting prepared, wrecking tools*
> 
> While I am waiting for the finish to cure on my tray project, I started my next adventure. I am building a sofa table to match, approximately, the end tables that I made last year (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22185).
> 
> ...


Great looking table!

Not sure where in Tampa you are, but check out N Rome Lumber off Hillsborough too. They're great for cherry, hog, maple and walnut. I buy my exotics from Intercity and they're great to work with but I like Rome as well.
Cheers!


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Pressing the Veneered Panels*

Next step is to create two veneered panels for the top.










I believe that a single large, unbroken top would look a little better but I really like the material that I have on hand and I don't trust my ability to get an invisible seam at the center. So I will feature a break rather than make a poor job of hiding it.

I do not have a large vacuum press system, so I will use cauls and clamps instead. I will use two 2'x4' MDF sections to make a veneer sandwich.










I do not use MDF as a substrate, I have some left over maple plywood for that. First step is to apply a thin layer of glue using a roller to get an even coat.



















I then assemble the sandwich - bottom caul, bottom MDF, wax paper (to keep glue squeeze out from sticking), plywood, veneer, wax paper, top MDF and top caul. I do not attempt to veneer both faces at the same time.

And clamp it.










And then add a few more clamps.










Unfortunately, the first attempt did not come as well as I hoped. I did not apply enough clamps so I got rippling in the finish. There are glue ridges that show up under a raking light.










Rather than clamp every 8-10", I doubled the number of clamps.

Second attempt came out better.



















So I went ahead and finished the second panel


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Pressing the Veneered Panels*
> 
> Next step is to create two veneered panels for the top.
> 
> ...


if you lived closer..I could have probably taught you a thing or two about how to create a seamless joint between two veneers..it's not hard..takes a little patience is all..the key is a straightedge..clamping the two sheets together..slicing them both at the same time while clamped..then..sandwich them between two straight cauls..and with a block sander resting on a flat surface..lightly sand the freshly cut joint with the block sander..a few good strokes is all that's needed with 220 paper on the block.. then bookmatch them..

a vacuum bag is a must if your going to do lot's of veneering..otherwise those ridges you see will be a constant problem for larger panels..

and you want to veneer both sides at the same time or the piece will bow.. the glue shrinks, cupping the whole board unless you balance it by veneering both sides..


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Pressing the Veneered Panels*
> 
> Next step is to create two veneered panels for the top.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the additional insight on veneering. Your veneered projects look fantastic.

I think the next project to hone my veneer skills will be a box from one of the Andy Crawford books, since he offers some good techniques for veneering and smaller projects are less frustrating to redo.

As far as bowing is concerned, I have been pressing one side and then immediately flipping over and veneering the second side. This has worked so far but I am guessing that this may be luck based on your feedback.


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Pressing the Veneered Panels*
> 
> Next step is to create two veneered panels for the top.
> 
> ...


no..what you have done is correct..as long as you quickly veneer the other side it will balance out..if you were to leave it..and it sat for a day or two..that's when it will start to warp..

I have veneered many small projects with success, but I also use the Urea Formaldehyde resin glue which glues to a very hard, crisp glueline..I mean if you chip a piece of the resin glue..it's like chipping a piece of glass..with that being said..your veneer will not, cannot move, so I really like it for veneering

if you do a small panel..clamping with clamps and cauls works well..what I do is place a very heavy bucket or sandbags or anything heavy to distribute the weight evenly to get a nice flat surface.. you cannot beat a vacuum bag..it exerts 1700 semi pounds of atmospheric clamping pressure evenly..your panels cannot come out any flatter and more pressed.. search craigslist for the vacuum pump and bag..I see them often and that's where I found mine..

feel free to PM me anytime if you need anything..


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Legs and the Mysterious Lock Miter*

Next step in the process is to create the profiled legs.










I start with the stock that I milled earlier. Fortunately, I was able to get pieces that could be finished to 7/8" rather than 3/4". Slightly thicker pieces will leave room for a nice profile and adequate room for joinery.










I install a profile bit and make a few test cuts until it looks right to me.










Because tear out is bad on end grain, I like to route the end grain before ripping to final width.










I had a little trouble with router burn on the profile, despite taking two passes to make the cut.










This is where the incra jig comes in really handy. I use the micro adjust feature to retract fence a few thousands of an inch (5/1000") and re cut. And the burn is mostly gone.










I then rip the legs to final width










And then route the long grain sides for a nice, clean profile on all four sides.










I now have 8 leg pieces, each with a profile on all four sides.










I then double check that I have enough room for the joinery. My lock miter bit requires at stock of at least 1/2" thickness. You may be wondering why I do not set up for a 7/8" cut. I do not want cut into the profile at the corners, it does not look as good. So essentially the profile sits on top of the joined sections. This is easier than using built up moldings.










Install the Lock Mitre bit and dial down the router speed (bit is 2 1/4" wide)










I love Bill Hylton's books on the router. His books have been big influence on work. I hope this project does him justice. I know that Pat Warner and Gary Rogowksi are also very good.










Using Bill's techniques, I start by centering the bit on my test piece of 1/2" plywood (really 31/64")










I set the fence for the initial cut, erring on the side of cutting too little (e.g. I do not want the route bit to change the length of my stock).










I make cuts on two test pieces. This is a big bit making a large cut, so I use a sacrificial push block to prevent tear out.










Bit is set too high so pieces do not join flush










I cut of the ends and redo the joint.










And I get a match - you don't care at this stage if there are gaps in the joint. You just need them to join flat.










Now that I have the height right, I adjust fence distance. Goal is to cut the profile with a clean edge without removing too much materials (over cutting profile). Basically, you cut along the length of your test piece and see what you have. Cut is too shallow if miter cut is blunt. Cut is too deep if the profile is changing the width of the work piece. In this case, the cut is too shallow.










So I keep trying …










Until I get a nice clean knife edge.










The end result is very satisfying because it fits like a glove.










After all this work, I save a set up block for future use.










I then route four pieces flat against bit and four pieces vertically against the fence.










The end result is a joint that is very strong, even before glue is applied.


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Legs and the Mysterious Lock Miter*
> 
> Next step in the process is to create the profiled legs.
> 
> ...


Thats a nice look. Good setup.


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## JRL (Jun 14, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Legs and the Mysterious Lock Miter*
> 
> Next step in the process is to create the profiled legs.
> 
> ...


Those joints are perfect. Thanks for a great pic-tutorial. I appreciate your contribution.


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## Ampeater (Feb 21, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Legs and the Mysterious Lock Miter*
> 
> Next step in the process is to create the profiled legs.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this. Do you think that it would look OK on a Hope Chest?


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Legs and the Mysterious Lock Miter*
> 
> Next step in the process is to create the profiled legs.
> 
> ...


Ampeater,

These joints are good any place that a miter joint would get used but you want strength as well. The joints are not exposed in my design. However, for a hope chest, I am assuming that you would be using them for the box sides and/or any drawers or trays.

If you are going to have the ends exposed, you need to make sure that you have a backer block behind the piece when you cut the joint, as the tongue can split out at the end of the cut. Otherwise I think they would look fine.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*The foot bone is connected to the leg bone ... *

Last session, I built the compound legs using a lock miter. This session, I completed the legs and feet:










Started with stock marked for the feet and the apron sides.










This session, I created the feet to attach to the leg. This is done by routing a profile on three sides of a workpiece, cutting a miter and joining two work pieces at 90 deg. This is the end result.










First I chuck up a cove/fillet profile bit:










Then route the edges of the workpiece. Route the edge grain first, using a sacrificial push block. Then route the long grain.










Then use radial arm saw to cut one stick










The route the exposed end grain again










Cut off another piece. Route exposed end grain … do this until you have four pieces.

Then cut the work pieces in half.










The use a clamp to hold the workpiece against a sacrificial backer block. The clamp serves two purposes it hld the pieces together and it keeps my fingers away from the bit when routing a small workpiece. Route the profile on the final side.










If this sequence seems clumsy, I am open to suggestions about how do it a different way. I was really looking for an approach that let me route the widest piece of end grain in one pass, as I find the results are more difficult to control on narrow pieces (I will built a coping sled one day to fix this).

I then put a temporary fence on the RAS table to cut the miters.










What I love about using the RAS is that I can sneak up on a precise line as I can watch to see where the blade will hit the workpiece (with the saw shut off). Get it set, clamp in place and cut.










Flip temporary fence over, and cut left hand miters.










Now I can glue the feet together. I did not put splines or biscuits to reinforce the miter because the pieces are small and fussy. I believe the way I mount the legs with dowels will give sufficient strength to keep pieces together. I am interested if any more experienced furniture makers think the feet will be too weak over time. I actually used rub joints here (glue on each miter and rub the pieces together to fit.










I then use a template to drill dowel holes in the legs and the feet. I mark the holes and a center line on the template. I match the center line on one of the legs and screw a triangle in place to let me place the hole consistently on each leg.










Because the feet are 1" wider than the leg, I unscrew the triangle, flip the template over, move the centerline of the template to match a center line on the feet and screw the triangle back on to server as a guide to get consistent placement again.



















Insert dowels and legs are completed with feet.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Finishing the base*

Sorry for double post. The picture size was causing problems so I had to split the entry. In the last blog entry, I completed the feet for the sofa table and the joinery to connect them to the legs. In this entry, I will cut the remaining pieces for the base, complete the joinery and glue it up. It will look like this.










First step is to create for table apron sides. Since the apron stock was only surfaced and jointed on one side, I rip the apron stock to final width.










And cross cut to final length to get 2 R/L sides and 2 F/B sides.










I then chuck up the same profile bit that I used on the legs and route the four sides of each apron work piece.










I have four profiled apron pieces.

Next step is to cut the mortise and loose tenon joinery for the legs. To start, I mark up a center line on each apron piece using a try square and a marking knife. It is important to use the try square so that you mark a consistent line on all pieces or your mortises will not line up.










If you have a precise center mark on the apron piece and use it as a reference to mark the legs from the top, you will guarantee that the leg and the apron top will align. Use the same measurement from the apron, I mark line at same point on leg stock assembly.










Time to cut the mortises. I chuck a 1/4" spiral upcut bit in the plunge router. Install a 1/2" guide bushing (comes with MortisePal). Set spiral bit to cut 3/4" deep. I use the MortisePal for loose tenon joinery. I love this jig. Makes mortise and tenon joinery quick and accurate. I set the jig to cut a 1/4" wide tenon, centered 3/8" from the unprofiled side. I insert the largest mortise template that will fit on the end of my apron stock. Set reference face against the same side for each piece and line up centering mark on jig with center marking on work piece.










I cut the mortises by inserting bushing through template, making a series of plunge cuts and then move the router back and forth a couple of times to make final, clean mortise.










Use the dust collection to remove waste as you go or the mortise will not be a consistent size due to chip build up. If you dont have integral dust removal, you will need route, vacuum and then route a final pass. The results are consistently spaced with nice clean slots.










The end result is 16 mortises cut in about 15 minutes.










Next step is to mill mill the loose tenon stock out of left over plywood. I typically do a large amount in one pass so I can re use in future projects.

First I resaw the plywood to nominal width.










I sneak up on the final fit into the mortise using 1/64" passes in the planer.










In order to fit the rounded edges of the mortise, you must round over the edges of the tenon stock, so I chuck up a 1/8"round over bit.










And rout the round over profile on both edges of one side of the tenon stock. Make sure to use a feather board to press down the thin stock to ensure a consistent profile.










Next step is to set final tenon width. I insert finished side into mortise so you can mark the other side to final width.










I then rip tenon stock to final width and rout the remaining side to fit into the mortise. Nice and tight.










I then use the RAS to cut 8 loose tenons that are (2x mortise depth - 1/8") to leave room for glue squeeze out.










Because my table will be between the sofa and the wall, I did not add drawers to the design. In order to keep the structure rigid and strong, I will be adding two plywood cross members using sliding dovetail joints.

I will use a straight bit to hog out the bulk of the waste and then a dovetail bit to cut final shape.










I mount the straight bit and set the depth to bit under the final 3/8" height in order to cut the initial pass.










I mark the location of the center lines of the dados on each piece (22" from each end). I then make the line more visible by wrapping blue tape along the edge and around to other side.










I will cut the dados using a panel sled on my router table designed to handle large workpieces. I could have used a T-square dado jig to do this with hand held router but I like the control I get with the sled on the table.










I mark the center line of the bit on the sled backer board and then all I have to do is line up the edges of the blue tape on the work pieces with the blue tape on the fence and I am all set to cut.










I use blue tape on the table to mark the point where I stop the sled in order to cut a stopped dado.










I then chuck the dovetail bit and set the height to 3/8".










I repeat the previous steps used to cut the straight dados, but since the bulk of the waste has already been removed, I get no burning and nice clean edges.










Leaving the dovetail bit set to exactly the same height, I bury the bit in the fence so that I can cut a tenon on each end of the plywood webbing that I know will be too wide.



















I measure the difference in size between the tenon and the dado and adjust fence inward by slightly less than half of the difference in widths. (1/2 because you are taking two passes to cut the tenon - one on each side). I use the micro adjust feature on the incra to get the final fit perfect.










Now comes lots and lots of sanding. Use Random Orbit sander from 100-120-150-180 grit on flat surfaces.










Then use profile blocks to sand same sequence by hand on the profiled sides.










Here goes two hours of your life … wear a dust mask, use plenty of dust collection. I will be building a sanding down draft table as a future shop project.

Now it is time for glue up. A testament to the strength of the miter lock is that I have not had them glued up during any of the sequence so far.










Now glue in loose tenons to legs and short apron sides. I spread glue on the tenon and in the mortise.










I use a spacer block to keep the legs square during glue up. I also glue the feet on at the same time. Note that I only set the assembly on my table saw to take the picture. I never glue up on my tablesaw … NEVER.










I also glue the plywood webbing at the same time.










I line up everything for final assembly.










My clamps were too short, I had to use one clamp on each side, pulling on each other in the middle for the final assembly.










And the base is done. Next step … back to the veneered top.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*

This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.










In order to decide on a final finish, I created some test boards. Sanded thru grits 120-150-180-220. I was hoping that the sanding would "liven up" the board a little. After I did the initial veneer pressing, a lot of the figure seemed to become muted. Sanding did not impact the figure.










I have received some great input on finishing from Mr. Clippinger. I watched a few Charles Neil videos on youTube (ended up ordering his 10 disk series) and read through my Jeff Jewitt and Michael Dresner books.

So here is what I tried:

1. Oil only
2. Oil tinted with van ******************** brown (making figure pop on the wood whisper)
3. Trans Tint bright red liquid dye, mixed in water to manufacturer baseline (2 oz dye in 2 qt water)
4. Trans Tint mahogany red liquid dye, mixed in water to double the manufacturers recommended strength
5. Aniline wine red powder dye, mixed in water
6. Aniline orange powder dye, mixed in water
7. First coat, water based black dye - sand back aggressively using 180 grit, followed by by bright red coat
8. First coat, water based brown dye - sand back aggressively using 180 grit, followed by bright red coat



















I picked my favorite … which was approach #8 and then made a test board with various top coats.

1. Tung Oil
2. Wipe On Varnish
3. Spray Laquer
4. Water based Poly










To be honest, I am not happy with any of the results:
- The tung oil (pure tung oil) as well as BLO, darkened the natural wood too much for me
- I am not enthralled by the coloured finishes

I think I will try with another scrap board next week by first scraping the wood to bring out the grain better, followed by a few different types of clear coats - water based poly, brushing lacquer etc …

Any inputs or opinions are welcome.


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## schuft (Apr 6, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


Made a lazy susan with African mahogany veneer earlier this year, finished it with just a clearcoat (4 coats) of GF's water-based polyacrylic. I was pretty happy with the results. I don't have a picture of it, but can try to supply one if you like.


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


I used only a few coats Arm R Seals Oil and Polyurethane Top coat on my nightstand's veneered curly cherry tops. Maybe test that one out? It darkened the veneer slightly but didn't affect the grain or contrast. Check out the second pic down on the left.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/50290


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


it's amazing to see how much difference there is between different stains, and finishes.


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## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


For color go with water base dyes. They are removal if you don't like the color wipe it off with water or they can be sanded back to the to the darkness you want.
You will have to seal it with something. One pound cut of Blond Shellac or Arm-or Seal, both will have to be sprayed very light coat. Very, very light scuff with 600 Sand paper.
Top coat can be water base. General makes a very good one. 4 to 7 coats sprayed. Start sanding after 2 or 3 coats with 400 to 600 paper.
After you finished let it set a week and them buff it with 1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000 Abralion Pads. ( Sand using soapy water) Pads available from Bowling Beat.
I think this maybe you can get the clear finish you want.
You can go to this web site http://www.cn-woodworking.com/ and see a Cherry finished this way. I wished it was mine.


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


Hi Shawn..

ok..I see what your trying to accomplish.. I believe you want the grain to "pop", but not be darkened or altered which I can understand..it's the oils in BLO and tung that give the grain it's pop, but..also causes the grain to darken..in my past experiences, if I want the grain to pop..I have to use the BLO's or shellacs..and of course..expect a darker colored veneer..however..in your case.. the bubinga will not only go darker.. but the mahogany will too and balance themselves out..If I wanted no pop..and a natural non darkening look..I sprayed lacquer on it, but the lacquer I used is called "Water White" and that pretty much kept my color the same.. the standard production lacquers have an amber hue to them, but the water white was clear..if you really want a whitish color.. I have sprayed General Finishes High Performance right out of the can and my piece looked like it had a slight whitish haze to it.. but just slightly..I think no matter what..you can have one..or the other.. a slightly darker finish but a grain that pop's.. or.. almost no pop and a more natural look..

the other option is the Arm-R-Seal.. you can give that a try and see if you can get the best of both worlds..but I really think that will darken the veneers also..

another thing you can try if you use extreme caution is try sanding the veneers to 400 grit to burnish them and then try the finishes that you want to use, to pop the grain..that might work also..

let me know how things go with what I suggested and I will work on more options in the meantime..


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


Try 2 coats of shellac (dewaxed) as a sealer, followed bu water based polyurethane. The shellac will give you the depth without changing color, and the water based poly will build up without adding any color.


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


the shellac will darken it because the shellac has an amber tone to it..not a lot..but some..


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## Ampeater (Feb 21, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Experimenting with Veneer Finishes*
> 
> This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain.
> 
> ...


Take a look at the Hall Table that I made a while back. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22330

I think that the maple strips helped to really show off the grain pattern of the bubinga veneer. I did not use any dyes or stains. The natural color is the best and is changed only a small amount by the finish.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*More fun with finishing*

I appreciate the input from a number of folks about potential finishing methods. I tried a few and settled on a final choice.

I started out trying to find a finish that would retain the natural look of the bubinga without significantly changing the color. Unfortunately I failed.

I used a scraper to level my last two test boards and then sanded the surface with 320 followed by 400 grit.










Tried one side with aerosol spray lacquer - 3 coats










and one side with pure tung oil (rockler) thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits - 3 coats










I wanted to do a shellac test as well but I did not have any clear shellac on hand.

I let both samples dry for 48 hours and what I discovered is that some of red color that seemed to be lost when the oil was initially applied seemed to come back later on the tung oil test board.

So I did a larger test with both samples.

I did not like the lacquer alone.










I did like the tung oil.










So I went with 3 coats tung oil (coat 1 thinned with equal amount mineral spirits, wait 24 hours, second coat full strength, wait 24 hours, final coat, full strength). Waited 4 days and then applied a coat of water based lacquer (will add a 2-3 more at end). This is the final results I got.










BTW … thank you to all the jocks that contributed finishing input to the attached forum entry on finishing (please ignore the garbage spill over from the NSF) ... ""How do I get the grain back?"":http://http://lumberjocks.com/topics/32004

Next step … adding a top to my base.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *More fun with finishing*
> 
> I appreciate the input from a number of folks about potential finishing methods. I tried a few and settled on a final choice.
> 
> ...


Spectacular piece of bubinga you have there and an equally nice finishing job. I applaud your patience.


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *More fun with finishing*
> 
> I appreciate the input from a number of folks about potential finishing methods. I tried a few and settled on a final choice.
> 
> ...


wow, it almost looks like swirling liquid!
Nice work.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *More fun with finishing*
> 
> I appreciate the input from a number of folks about potential finishing methods. I tried a few and settled on a final choice.
> 
> ...


Your patience and persistacce paid off. That is beautiful wood with a great finish!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *More fun with finishing*
> 
> I appreciate the input from a number of folks about potential finishing methods. I tried a few and settled on a final choice.
> 
> ...


fantastic!!! wow, what a poppin grain


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Making the top*

Have completed my experimentation with finishing, it is time to finalize the table top.










I cut the frame pieces for the table top from the same stock I used for the legs and sides. This turned out to make the table top glue up a little more complicated because I ended trying to place a 3/4" panel in a frame made of 15/16" thick stock. Note that I cut the long members a little wider than the short members so that I can trim them for a final fit around the panel (I will explain further down)

First step, cut the frame members to length. I marked the desired length on my first piece and then clamped the second frame member to the first, used a marking knife to mark a length to match and then used the RAS to "sneak up" on the scribe line on the second piece to get identical lengths.










I then used a sacrificial fence, aligned using a plastic drafting square, screwed into the RAS table top to cut the miters on the frame members.










End up with four mitered pieces and one square cross piece (long pieces not showing).










Lay out to check fit










I then check the squareness of the miters with both a drafting square and against my panel.

Good fit here.









This one needed a little time with a block plane and a shooting board to clean up.










Initially I tried to use dowel joinery to fit in the center piece.










But I had trouble getting the assembly to clamp completely square. So instead I went with loose tenon joinery where I cut the mortise on the outer frame member slight large so that the tenon could slide a little during the glue up.

So I cut a 1/2" wide mortise in the cross piece.










Fit it with a 1/2" wide loose tenon.










Cut a 3/4" wide mortise in the frame piece.










This provided some give during the final assembly with an acceptable loss of strength in the joint.

For framed panel glue ups, I glue the ends to the panels first, being very careful to keep the miter end aligned with the board end.










This lets me fit the long pieces exactly. Remember how I said that I left the long pieces slightly wider (around a 1/16th). Now I place the long pieces in place. If my measurements are slightly short in the final assembly, I plane the inside of the frame member, effectively lengthening the inside measurement. If it is too long, I can fix on the shooting board by trimming the miter. If I get it exactly right, I can plane the outside edge of the member to match the width of the ends.

You may ask yourself, why make this complicated. Well, if I could cut the miters to 0.001 precision angles, and assemble the compound panel exactly perfectly and make sure nothing slipped during glue up then you would be right … I would not need to give myself any room to make corrections. However, I don't like hairline gaps or miter corners that don't meet perfectly and this gives me a little room to make last minute corrections.

Next step, glue up the long frame members. (note the finished panel is the top, the unfinished sides are the bottom).










With the glue up finished, I use a plane to level the frame to the panel. I use blue tape as an early warning system to keep me from hitting the panel with the plane blade.










I then finish the outer edge of the panel using a router with a round over bit. I like to use the hand held rather than the router table because it follows any inconsistencies in the top better rather than a bit buried in a fence. This avoids highlighting flaws in the top with an inconsistent profile if I needed to remove a touch more of the panel frame to match it to the center panel. In this case, creep during glue up lowered my panel by about 3/32" in the top right corner which I needed to level out.










Final sanding of the routed profile using sanding blocks followed by really good clean up.

Then I stained piece using light walnut dye to match existing furniture in the room.




























Next week .. attach the top to the table and add the top coat.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Finished just in time for Christmas*

This is the final post for my Veneered Sofa Table project. It is finally finished, the weekend before Christmas.










In my last post, I had finished staining the non veneered portions of the table using General Finishes Light Walnut Oil Stain. The only reason that I stained the mahogany was to match an existing piece.

Next step was to attached the table top. I was out of figure 8 clips so I created home made fasteners by drilling a pocket screw into a wooden tab and then drilling an oversize hole to attach the side of the table. This way I can screw the tab into the table top but the oversize screw hole connecting to the table side will allow for wood movement.

Drill a series of pocket hole screws into a piece of plywood and then cut into 2" wide tabs.










I am using #8 screws for the sides, so I drill a #12 hole.










I lay the table top on the floor, measure the offset on the sides, position the base into position and screw the table to the base.










With table top firmly attached, I set up my outdoor spraying station (a bit of plastic and some painter's pyramids). Since I live in Florida and we are experiencing a mild winter (mid 70s), it seemed like a good day to try spraying for the first time. Andy Charon's book on spray finishing suggests that it is ok to spray as long as the dew point and the temperature are not more than 20 degs apart. Quick check on TBO.com and we are good to go.

After watching the Charles Niel finishing series, I spent a hour or so spraying food coloring and water onto cardboard to get a feel for my HVLP spray gun. I then mixed Deft Brushing Lacquer 50/50 with Lacquer Thinner, put on my canister filter mask and set off to do my first coat (they tell you that you should not thin the mixture … this is because it would increase VOC content above California's standards, not because it won't work).










It worked pretty well. So I sprayed 5 more, waiting 20-25 minutes between coats.










I waited a week and then used 600 grit wet sand paper to polish the finish to satin.

I then used 0000 steel wool and light paste wax because I like the feel of a waxed top.










And we are done and it is in place. Seems like a shame to hide all that work behind the sofa but my wife is happy so I am doing great.










Thank you for reading and I would appreciate any feedback on the project, blogging style etc …


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## zlatanv (Jul 18, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finished just in time for Christmas*
> 
> This is the final post for my Veneered Sofa Table project. It is finally finished, the weekend before Christmas.
> 
> ...


Turned out awesome! Nice work and it matches the rest of the furniture really nice.


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## vcooney (Jan 4, 2009)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finished just in time for Christmas*
> 
> This is the final post for my Veneered Sofa Table project. It is finally finished, the weekend before Christmas.
> 
> ...


Very nice work…I have tried to spray my work outside but the wind kills it for me everytime.


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## smndrummer (Dec 24, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finished just in time for Christmas*
> 
> This is the final post for my Veneered Sofa Table project. It is finally finished, the weekend before Christmas.
> 
> ...


That's a very nice looking piece, I'm glad it turned out as you wanted it to. I do have to ask, what is the point of going for the satin finish, then waxing it with super fine steel wool? I use that to buff a glossy finish out really shiny. 
- Rich


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finished just in time for Christmas*
> 
> This is the final post for my Veneered Sofa Table project. It is finally finished, the weekend before Christmas.
> 
> ...


I wanted a satin finish as an end result. The finish I sprayed is a gloss finish. Most finishing books seem to recommend starting with a gloss finish and then knocking it back to your desired sheen as part of the rubbing out process. After the 400 grit got the surface uniformly leveled, I think the finish looked more matte, so I used the steel wool to bring the finish up a little. I used the wax as both a lubricant as well as I just like the feel of a waxed surface.

In the past, when I wanted a gloss finish, I would wait a couple of weeks for the finish to fully cure and the move thru the grits 400 600 800 1200 and then use automotive polish at the end. I have only done that a couple of times on boxes - I have not posted those. I am far from a finishing expert so my approach on this project may not be correct. If you go back a couple of entries in the series, I got a lot of input from another thread on finishing approaches.

Thanks for the feedback.


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