# Miter Station Work Bench



## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I have limited room in my shop area, so I wanted to build a work bench that can hold a miter saw.

I came across some cheap 3/4" plywood, so that is what I will frame it with.
I used 2×4s to create a base.
It will have 2 foot wide compartments underneath. Probably add shelves.

Any suggestions on attaching the 3/4" plywood to the 2×4? and to each other.
Should I pocket screw all of these?


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## haskins (Jan 4, 2015)

glue and pocket hole screws would most likely hold it but you may want to think about putting some strips or triangles in the corners for a stronger joint.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

It's a shop cabinet, not fine furniture. I wouldn't waste the pricy Kreg screws and I would just use glue and drywall screws, (predrilled near any edges). Put a back on the cabinet to keep it square.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I didn't want to waste wood with a back on the cabinet.
I do have some 3/4" plywood strips from ripping the sides.
They are 6" wide strips.
I can add some of those.

I could screw and drill the sides into the base.
Then screw the base into the 2×4's

I have been reading on making cabinet carcass, and it seems I am doing this backwards!


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I am planning on 3/4" plywood for the top and adding melamine to it.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I worked some more on it.
Top support board is for the top
Bottom/middle board will support the full plywood shelf.
One shelf in each box/hole


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I did not screw of glue to saw portion yet.
But something I did not think about is the swing of the saw.
If I mount towards the center of the table, then I cannot swing it 45 degrees.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

If I have it pulled forward it works fine, but the handle would stick out for storage.

So I think I will make a stop block and slide the saw up to the block when I want to use it.
Then slide back when I am done for the day.

Or I cut handle clearance in the sides? But that does not seem like a good idea.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

just butt screw the sides into the bottom like standard cab construction.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

It looks like you can just pull the saw forward and have clearance, but if you plan on upgrading to a slider with more depth of cut you may not be able to do that.

You can also have your saw shelf flush with the bench top and just make some supports to hold your lumber as you cut it.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I thought about the supports ontop of the cabinet, Not sure I want to do that.
I like the idea of sliding the saw forward to a fixed stop.

I have about 1" of clearance I need to shim to make it level with the future top.

I don't see myself ever getting a sliding saw, and if I did it would be that compact bosch.
The bench is 36" deep.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

....or push it back to where you want and cut a notch out of each side panel to clear the lever. As long as you can see the scale you're good. If you plan on screwing a fence down to your outfeeds that will give you the most usable space on the counter for other things.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

If I have a fence it would be removable.
Was thinking of installing track in the top of the table.
Table needs to be able to be converted to an assembly bench, as I am out of room in the shop.

I was looking and I don't have enough cheap 3/4" plywood for the top.
Was looking at the store today for something smooth and level.
Might go with MDF for the top? And a cover over it?


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I have been using the wrong term for the top I want.
It is tempered hardboard.

So maybe a sheet of 3/4" plywood, then 1/4" tempered hardboard.
Not sure how to finish the edge face. I can use some wood for it.
But I don't own a router. So something I can cut with my table saw.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

That would be fine, when the 1/4 layer gets beat up down the road it's easily replaced. I'd just grab some cheap 1×2 pine strips for the edge or rip some pine down.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

Are there different grades or standards for tempered hardboard?

And will plywood be straight enough for a top?


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Take a look at this post link This will give you some ideas before you go to much farther. Below is a picture of mine from last year. You can also do a search to find many more, some very creative and exquisitely built. My top is built with 2 layesr of 3/4 MDF, glued pine as the surround for stability and Formica on the top as well as the fence.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I have 3/4 plywood and 3/4 MD screwd and glued.
Now for the replace able hardboard.I bought the thicker version.

Spray adhesive?
Some screws?


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)




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## bkseitz (Oct 24, 2014)

I've used Pocket Screws for similar construction with real good lasting results


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

Dude, you're encountering & working through many of the same issues we have all faced when setting up a miter saw as you are. You appear to have worked through most of them. Is your setup going to be semi permanent? Meaning you are not going to be removing the saw from the cabinet after initial setup.

First thing I would recommend is having a surface where you can cut at least 8' stock on each side of the blade if you have room. More is better, if possible.

You don't need an expensive surface for resting your stock on while cutting. The plywood you are using will be fine, especially if your setup is not going to be exposed to the elements. My rig is portable. I need to load it up and take it from shop to job site and it has been exposed to the elements since I built it in 2002. It's holding up just fine. True I don't let it get wet, but it's been damp a couple times. Glue and screw construction a must. Proper bracing goes a long way too.

Dust collection is a problem in the shop, especially with the miter saw. Here's how I address it.



















Like I said, my setup has to be portable. So I am sometimes expected to have dust collection at the job site too. I built the collection bin from some FRP (fire retardant panel) and wall angle commonly used when installing acoustic/drop ceilings. The bottom has a similar shape as the top with the exception of a block of wood mounted in the bottom to plug in the hose from the shop vac. I don't have a newer picture handy but I added a strip of FRP across the top to keep more of the sawdust in the bin when making a cut.

Another thing to consider is a form of adjust ability for the stock supports (or wings as I like to call them). If you're going to be cutting materials that vary widely in weight an adjustment may be necessary to keep the supports flat and aligned with the saw table to insure true cuts.

Dude, I don't want to post a bunch of pictures on you thread. I had my rig set up outside last week and snapped a few pictures thinking maybe I would post it as a project someday for some of the up and coming members of the site. Give me a while and I'll go ahead and post it today. Maybe it'll help you with some more ideas.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

Well, I am just looking for input on how to attach the hardboard to the MDF.

This bench is permanent.
Primary purpose is a bench, it is the only bench I can fit in the shop.
So it is a project bench.
3 foot deep and 6 foot long on the left of the saw (I can fit a 9foot board from saw to wall)
3 foot deep and 2 foot long on the right side of the saw (I can fit a 6 foot board from saw to wall)

The saw needs to live in the bench. But I am working on a slide to pull the saw forward to use.
And push back to store.
I am thinking of the Inca type rail system to put into the 6 foot section of bench (If I need this)

So now I am looking for the best way to attach hardboard.
And is it typical to have leveling feet on the saw?
I am assuming I can use bolts/nuts to level when I attach to the table?


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I ended up using a decent amount of pocket screws.
With the 3/4" plywood and fixed shelves, I think I can park my car on this bench!



> I ve used Pocket Screws for similar construction with real good lasting results
> 
> - bkseitz


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

Full shot


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

You have to right click and view image to see the entire table


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## bkseitz (Oct 24, 2014)

I used melamine for table tops and screwed top to sub-top from below. For hardboard you may have to glue down or perhaps frame around and use frame to hold in place


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

I'm with bkseitz, glue will work. Are you going to have a fence on the hardboard? btw, I posted my setup in the projects section.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I am going to trim all the edges with solid wood.
So you won't see the edges of MDF/Plywood/Hardboard.
The plywood and MDF is screwed and glued.
Just not this 1/8" hardboard stuff.

I will glue it down. I need to find something heavy enough to keep it all flat.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

I was thinking of an Incra rail embedded into the top.

http://incra.com/jigfixture-build-itsystem-t-tracks.html

Then I can have a fence that I can remove if I need the full top.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

Are you just ignoring the saws dust port and catching it all in the shield?
I was thinking the same for mine.
Or should I have a tube to the dust port and the shroud?



> Dude, you re encountering & working through many of the same issues we have all faced when setting up a miter saw as you are. You appear to have worked through most of them. Is your setup going to be semi permanent? Meaning you are not going to be removing the saw from the cabinet after initial setup.
> 
> First thing I would recommend is having a surface where you can cut at least 8 stock on each side of the blade if you have room. More is better, if possible.
> 
> ...


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

What is the actual purpose of the extended fence?
Why cant I use the standard saw fence?

I am a small project type person


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

More reading for ya.
http://lumberjocks.com/MT_Stringer/blog/36618


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I think contact cement is the way to go with the hardboard to MDF. You will not have any issues of unevenness. Glue on such a wide surface may cause that as it will be difficult to keep it from pushing more glue to one area or another without uniform pressure over the entire surface. I used contact cement to attach hardboard to my outfeed table linked below.

It will take a fair amount of contact cement as both the MDF and especially the waffled side of the hardboard soak it up at a good rate. Once down, all you need is a roller and some good arm pressure to ensure a good adhesion. Use dowels or any thin strips of wood to keep both surfaces from contacting one another until you have the hardboard positioned where you want it. It's best to leave the hardboard larger than the surface you're adhering it to so positioning isn't critical. Then clean it up with a router/trimmer and the appropriate bit.

http://lumberjocks.com/builtinbkyn/blog/75282

Edit:
After looking at the closeup of the hardboard, it's already not laying flat. Unless you have a way of applying some kind of load over the entire surface, the glue will migrate to the areas of least resistance (the areas that are not contacting the MDF when loose laid) and pool there. Contact cement is the appropriate way to go IMO.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

Yes, you could say I ignore the dust port. It's worthless. For most cuts it becomes overwhelmed with the volume of saw dust generated by this particular model of saw. But then again the previous model I had was no better as have been some of the other saws I've used. Now I should point out that my comments refer to Sliding Miter Saws. My older compound miter saw does a better job of getting more of the saw dust in the supplied factory bag, but still there's a lot of it blowing everywhere. Yours may be different. There are some "store bought" collection systems out there but I feel they're kinda pricey when considering the quality of construction.

When you say standard saw fence are you referring to the fence that comes with the miter saw?
The purpose of the extended fence is for repetitive cuts that are longer than the fence on your saw. When you absolutely have to make multiple pieces of the same size it's more efficient & accurate. Accuracy is paramount in determining the quality of your finished project. You may not need the same capacity as I do. Only you can make that call. You said you only do small projects, so a smaller auxiliary fence should work for your purposes. Keep it simple. Make some kind of fence consisting of two long pieces at a right angle with smaller pieces bracing the fence to keep it true.

The material supports I posted in the projects section & seen above are eight foot long because that's how long a sheet of plywood is & that's also the length of my pickup truck bed. I can cut 92 5/8" & 104 5/8" studs with the eight foot supports.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

What about adding some holes and bench dogs on the end?

Options to add another row of holes for something like an adjustable bench dog.


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

Maybe to clarify, I want to hand plan on the working area.
So I need a plane stop on the end.

I can drill holes and add a thin board with pegs
Or maybe mount something on the end of the top?


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## The__Dude (Jun 29, 2015)

Been plugging away at the shop.

Dust collection is installed and works great!

Have my 50amp subpanel working and table saw is now 240v.
Have a dedicated 20amp for the dust collector and air compressor
Also a dedicated 20amp for other power tools in shop

If you right click and "view image" they show more.


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