# Miter Saw vs. Sliding Miter Saw



## Tim_456 (Jul 22, 2008)

Hello all, 
I'm looking to buy a miter saw and I'm debating whether or not to get a non-sliding or a sliding miter saw. I'll probably go with a 10in but I was wondering if there were any other benefits to a slider other than a larger capacity? Are there any other benefits or pro's/cons between the two? I've never used a slider so I'm not sure if it's worth the extra coin for one but I don't want to buy something and think later "doh! I should've gotten the other one!". I guess I don't even know where to start with asking/answering questsions for this decision.

thanks for the help,
Tim


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## nailbanger2 (Oct 17, 2009)

As usual, it depends on what you want to do. If you are cutting large crown, a slider is a must. The cons are cost and room. Sliders need more than 2' from front to back. I'll take this opportunity to make a plug for Hitachi SCMS, have had my 10" for about 8 years, and love it. There are better out there, but not for the price.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

What kind of work do you do? Do you cross cut a lot of wide stock? Do you have a good tablesaw?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

If you can afford the cost difference a sliding compound does a lot more than just a compound miter saw. All so a good sliding compound can replace most of what a radial arm saw will do so you can sell you RAS and free up floor space. This really depends on what you use your RAS for. If your going to be moving it from job site to job site your also have to take into account that a sliding miter usually weighs 20-25lbs more the a standard Miter.


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## CKM (Dec 2, 2009)

I've got a Makita sliding miter saw and it has been one of the most reliable tools I've owned. I originally purchased it when doing some remodeling and it gave me a lot of capabilities in terms the types of cuts I could make, however, it is heavier and not the easiest tool to transport. As stated above, it does require a fair amount of front-to-back space in the shop, which since my shop is a bit narrow this was problem for me when laying out where I wanted my tools placed. With all of that said though, I would by this tool again because it gives me more options with a single tool. Just my $.02.

CKM


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## WilliamEarl (Dec 7, 2009)

I suggest the sliding style if the cost and room required are not objectionable. I run the DeWalt 12" and I am very happy with the quality and features. If there's an interest I can post the enclosure I built that controls almost all of the dusting


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I also have a Makita and to get around the space Issues I use a mobile stand. It assembles pretty quickly once your familiar with it. The photos are not the best.


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## gerrym526 (Dec 22, 2007)

I have a 10yr old Hitachi SCMS-it's great. What the guys here said about it's ability to crosscut long, wide boards-easier to do it with an SCMS than a table saw. Also it's crosscuts are a lot more accurate than using a handheld circular saw.
If you set it up on a long table with movable stops, you can repetitively crosscut-a real advantage when you need to cut a bunch of long boards to the exact same lenght.


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## WhittleMeThis (Mar 1, 2009)

For furniture building I am not a big fan of sliders, for general carpentry where you don't have to carry it back and fourth everyday they work well. I find sliders to be less then precise, though some are better than others. Sliders often have some slop when the slider is fully extended and angle repeatability can often be a headache (for angles with no stop). If you go with a slider do a lot of homework.


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

I have a 12" makita slider and would not be with out it. Most of my cutting is for face frames, moldings and trim on my cabinets but it is nice to be able to cut 2 X 12's, 4 X 4's when needed. It is very acurate cutting miter saw. Look at my tool review and miter saw counter which is listed on my site.

God Bless
tom


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

I have owned both and do not regret the money spent on my Hitachi 10" slider. Given a choice between the two the slider would win hands down for me.


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## gundog007 (Dec 6, 2009)

A sliding miter saw is one of those purchases you make, that a month down the road you wonder how in the world you ever got along without one. GET THE SLIDER!! Even if you own a radial arm saw, you still can't make the compound angle cuts required in so much of todays trim applications. You will think of many other uses for the saw once you buy it and get some experience behind the blade than you can think of off the top of your head right now. Just my opinion. Good luck


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## WoodyG (Sep 17, 2009)

I have a Dewalt 12" and a Delta Saw Buck and I have never run into anything I couldn't do with them and I have a lot of miles on both. I like the "saw buck" with its nearly 24" capacity and it has wheels and a very large platform. The drawback with it is 4" is the max thickness I can cut. The 12" Dewalt is the most accurate miter saw I have ever owned. I can see a need sometimes for a big slider but then I get around it back at the shop with a tablesaw.


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## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

I normally use a dual bevel 12" miter box as my daily use saw when trimming. I use the 12" slider only when cutting mop boards, or when doing over sized base and crown molding.In the shop I rarely use the miter boxes. I make most of my cuts on the ts or bs.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Buy the Festool so you can do a review on it for us…...lol It also takes up less front to rear space than the conventional slider. The downside is the $1300 price tag


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## KellyS (Jul 20, 2009)

Do it man! Go all in! Buy the 12 inch Sliding miter….Unless you're just cutting crown molding with it. I have a 12 Inch Bosch sliding miter and love it. I think I just read where Makita is coming out with a new slider that is more compact that its predecessors, might want to take a look….And then… And then build you a shooting board and buy you a Lie Nielsen Low angle Jack plane. See, this way you can clean up all those cuts you make Sorry, it's the beer bringing out the inner Galoot in me.

KS


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## Tim_456 (Jul 22, 2008)

Wow, thanks for all the advice. I don't do any crown but I might want to in the future. I have a good table saw and a RAS but I don't use that for anything I require a ton of accuracy with. It's just too hard to keep square, I usually use it to rough cut then go to my sled on the table saw. I"m worried about the space that a slider might take up but I might want the precision and capacity of the slider…i'm probably going to take KellyS' advice and get one  No surprise that more is usually better

Sadly I won't be getting a Festool, now that is way over my budget

Thanks again for all the tips! Now to decide on which one!


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I have been thinking for awhile now that my next tool purchase needs to be miter saw. I was basically thinking of posting this same post wondering about 12 vs 10 and CMS vs SCMS. Still wondering if I can get away with a single bevel or do I need the dual? I figure if I build a nice long table in the shop I could probably just flip pieces from side to side if need be.


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## cranbrook2 (May 28, 2006)

I have a 12 " Dewalt and a 12" Milwaukee sliding compound saw , duel bevel . I couldn,t imagine going to anything smaller .


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## nate22 (Jul 12, 2010)

If it were me I would go with the sliding miter saw. You can do so much more with it. I just got a used one and I should of got one long time ago. I got a miter saw for smaller boards but sliding miter saws work great for 1×8 and anything wider. So if I were you I would go with the sliding miter saw.


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## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

If you are not planning on going job site to jobsite with it i would opt for the 12" model. Quite a bit more capable in capacities. Trust me it's not worth the money to have to flip a piece especially if it is a long 10' piece of trim. What are you going to hit in the shop trying to spin/flip that piece around? Get the dual bevel. I think most of the 12" models are now anyway. And since you'll want to save space and be able to go right up to the wall on your bench you might as well get the Gliding Compound Miter Saw from Bosch that solves that problem as seen here.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/12733/bosch-redefines-sliding-miter-saw-category-with-new-glider-system


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

I have the Hitachi 12" sliding miter saw. It doesn't need extra space in the back like most sliders. The rails lock to the front and the carriage rides on them. There are a couple other models that do this also but are much more expensive. The Bosch "Glider" is one but it costs 800 bucks and the Festool Kapex is the other but it is 1300 bucks. Another poster wrote that the sliders aren't as accurate. That is *not* true at all. The Hitachi I have I bought from Lowes for 450 and it is very accurate. With a stop placed I make picture frames all the time and never have any problems with my miters. I would suggest a 12" slider and more specifically the Hitachi because it is the best for the money. The Bosch and the Festool are awesome too but they cost hundreds more and aren't hundreds of dollars better.


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## dpop24 (May 14, 2011)

I have a 10 year old Delta single bevel non-slider and while it's made miles of cuts for rough carpentry, building decks, installing baseboard. Its been a eliable, accurate tool, but it's a major pain in the buns having only the single bevel. Flipping boards and cutting upside down results in extra time, banged up walls, and less accurate cuts. I will be upgrading to a double bevel slider in the near future, just need to decide on 10" vs. 12". Anyone know the max cutting width and height of each? Currently I can't even get through a 4×4 without rotating it!


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

@dpop24, I would suggest the 12" Slider. I have cut 4×4's without any trouble. Not sure of the max depth of cut but I know it is at least 3.5" because I didn't have to flip the 4×4.


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

Check this out


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

I have just bought a 12" Bosch mitre saw. I previously had the 10" slider but found that with limited space behind the saw it caused me some problems. I have a RAS though to cut the wider boards should I need to.

The 12" saw takes care of the taller/thicker sections of timber.

Good luck in your choice of saw


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## simonov (Jan 6, 2017)

Bumpity bump!

I am thinking of retiring my 10 inch slider in favor of a 12 inch non-slider to save space in a new shop. Can anyone tell me the maximum depth of cut with a 12 inch non-slider (that is, what are the widest boards you can cut with a single chop)?


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## SweetTea (Aug 5, 2016)

Ok here is the deal…if you are a cabinet maker, or furniture builder and require tons of accuracy, and if you aren't trimming out houses, building decks or framing houses then get a 10" non slider. Especially if you are mostly making 90 degree cuts. 10" miter saws have a faster spinning blade and more torque in general than a 12". Also, sliding miter saws are not as accurate as a non sliders. If your cuts are almost always 90 degrees and you are building cabinetry or furniture then the accuracy is much more important than cross cut compacity. I have used the Bosch glide, the sliding Dewalt, the Festool, the (Lowe's version) of the Hitachi slider and many other sliding miter saws and all of them had some play in the arm at full extension. The Festool was probably the most accurate of the sliders that I just mentioned above. Non sliders have less parts to get out of tune and they rarely if ever flex making a cut. I will say that my favorite slider is the new Makita. I was very impressed with it.


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