# Poly on nightstand: apply to just tabletop or entire piece?



## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

Hello all,

I just finished painting my latest project, a nightstand/side table. This is the first time I have ever used paint, so I'm hoping to get some advice on how much of the table I should protect with Poly.

The paint is latex (satin), and I plan to use polycrylic (though I'm open to other suggestions).

Should I coat the entire table in poly, or just the table top? The top is the portion that will get the most wear and tear, so I was initially planning on doing just that.

If I just do the top, should I coat the rest in paste wax? Similarly, should I coat any portion I cover in poly in paste wax?

Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated

Here is a photograph of the nightstand taken from Steve Ramsey's site. Mine is identical, except, of course, much worse quality 










Thanks everyone!


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

When we painted things in the cabinet shop, we'd always cover them with lacquer. In your case, poly 
I suggest the whole thing, not just the top. Two reasons: 1) more protection 2) the poly has a slight hue to it, and I think it'd be pretty noticeable that there's two different finishing methods on the piece. My 2 cents!


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

Why use polyurethane at all? It won't be more durable than good paint.


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## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

> When we painted things in the cabinet shop, we d always cover them with lacquer. In your case, poly
> I suggest the whole thing, not just the top. Two reasons: 1) more protection 2) the poly has a slight hue to it, and I think it d be pretty noticeable that there s two different finishing methods on the piece. My 2 cents!
> 
> - PPK


That makes a lot of sense, thanks. What's the difference between Lacquer and poly? Any reason why you used lacquer instead of poly?


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## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

> Why use polyurethane at all? It won t be more durable than good paint.
> 
> - ArtMann


I thought it was common practice to apply a coating over paint, but maybe not?


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

> That makes a lot of sense, thanks. What s the difference between Lacquer and poly? Any reason why you used lacquer instead of poly?
> 
> - RedWoodworker


The chemical makeup is different. Poly cures by a chemical reaction with the air. It's generally a little more tough, and more water resistant. Lacquer cures by the solvent evaporating. It's (in my opinion) easier to apply. Both types of finishes have a lot of different types and variations and qualities. But sticking to the plain old Minwax Poly that you can buy from the big box stores is just fine. It's a good product.


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## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

Some plastic/rubber items actually bond with paint when sat on them no matter how long the paint has dried/cured. This is called blocking.

I can see an alarm clock sticking to t he painted top if it does not have polycyilic over it.


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## Fthis (Feb 11, 2018)

Latex paint is soft even after full cure. It has always been a complaint on book shelves and the like where items with any significant weight sit, and sink into the paint, leaving an impression. On a night stand, a lamp, alarm clock, whatever, will leave impressions.

In your situation with the night stand, I do feel a top coating is recommended. If you're going to use poly, use water based as it's crystal clear and you can get the sheen to match your paint without effecting the color.

I typically use automotive carnauba wax (7 to 12 coats). It's gets very, very hard and is easy to repair.


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## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

> That makes a lot of sense, thanks. What s the difference between Lacquer and poly? Any reason why you used lacquer instead of poly?
> 
> - RedWoodworker
> 
> ...


From a production standpoint, lacquer dries MUCH faster to a point where it can be recreated or handled. So you see it over poly a lot in production shops.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

If you put finish in just the top you may have issues with it potato chipping. Unless you use alder.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

It isn't common with me and i don't know anyone else who does it. I have heard of the practice but never understood why. If you need a hard durable surface, choose your paint carefully. That is what commercial furniture makers do. Latex is not the best choice as already mentioned but it will dry hard after a while.


> Why use polyurethane at all? It won t be more durable than good paint.
> 
> - ArtMann
> 
> ...


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

These pedestal tables are in an open reception area of our church, they get moved all over for all sorts of tasks, and are often used as seats themselves. I used a smooth roller with a latex paint over primer. Last step was three sprayed coats of Minwax polycrylic. 4 years later the finish is still holding up well even over the MDF edges


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## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

Thanks everyone very much for the advice. I really appreciate it. I'm going to go with the polycrylic.

One last question: do I need to sand the paint before applying the poly?


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Depends on how well you lay down the paint. If I get a good finish with the paint, I'll lightly hit it with 320 or 400. If I get some runs or bigger goofs, I use a razor blade like a scraper and then blend it out with 120, up to 320.


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## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

Thanks!


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Here is a photograph of the nightstand taken from Steve Ramsey s site. Mine is identical, except, of course, much worse quality
> 
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> - RedWoodworker


Let's see a picture of yours!


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## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

> Let s see a picture of yours!
> 
> - Andybb


I'd be happy to post a picture once its finished. Turns out that after painting, one of the drawers doesn't quite fit any more (a tad too wide, and it was a right fit before painting). So first I have to deal with that.

I think I will have to sand off the poly and paint on the side of the drawer, then sand the width of the drawer down with an orbital sander or belt sander. Another lesson learned!


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I think I will have to sand off the poly and paint on the side of the drawer, then sand the width of the drawer down with an orbital sander or belt sander. Another lesson learned!
> - RedWoodworker


You might try using a freshly sharpened card scraper.


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## RedWoodworker (Nov 21, 2017)

> You might try using a freshly sharpened card scraper.
> 
> - Andybb


That probably would have worked better. I have a couple of card scrapers, but I still haven't got the hang of sharpening yet.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

> You might try using a freshly sharpened card scraper.
> - Andybb
> 
> That probably would have worked better. I have a couple of card scrapers, but I still haven t got the hang of sharpening yet.
> - RedWoodworker


Or a sharp jack plane


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> That probably would have worked better. I have a couple of card scrapers, but I still haven t got the hang of sharpening yet.
> - RedWoodworker


I know right? Once I figured out that all of the videos I was watching were just trying to tell me to do this it all kinda made sense. I use the Stumpy method.








It was a eureka moment! I went from making dust to the little curly q's they kept showing.


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