# 2X6X8' Board tapered both edges on a table saw?



## juanabee (Mar 1, 2010)

Dear fellow lumberjocks,
I am making a trebuchet throw arm from an 8' 2X6. I need to taper about 6' of it on both edges, leaving the stronger width at the other end for the axle and counterweight. Need about 2" wide on the narrow end of my taper. I have looked at the table saw taper jigs that follow the material all the way through the cut, but on an 8' board that isn't practical.

What if I just attach a jig firmly the full length of the fence at the proper angle, and slide the board through? after one cut, take the jig off and flip the board over and use the first cut against the fence as a guide to taper the other side?

will that work, or am I maybe looking at a trip to the emergency room?


----------



## redlee (Apr 11, 2016)

If I were doing it, Id use a skilsaw and a straight edge or just follow a pencil line.
Jigsaw and some sanding would also be fine.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

+1 for Richard Lee.

A track saw would work.

Staying out of the ER is a great idea.


----------



## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

Sorry. A fixed jig on the rip fence won't work. If you did that, your work piece would be going through the blade at an angle. Won't work.
Use Richard's suggestion or a bandsaw and then joint the cuts to smooth them if needed.


----------



## Sawdust35 (Jan 15, 2016)

juanabee-
This is what I've done in the past. (See utube video). I've attached the reference board to the piece to be cut with screws or heavy duty double sided tape. At 8' I would suggest using roller stand or something like that to make feeding the piece through the saw safer.


----------



## juanabee (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks all for your posts.

I think Sawdust35's jig might work for me. If not, I'll try the circular saw and straight line. I saw a guy do that just recently and it looked semi do-able for me. Bilyo, I just may have avoided the ER with your comment.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Not enough people know how to use a circular saw anymore, which is a sad thing.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I agree with the circular saw approach. Unless your taper has to be really precise or your making production runs of these things, it will take more time to set up the table saw than it will to complete the job with a circular or jig saw.


----------



## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

For only one I'd use a circular saw too. For a few of them I'd set up a L-fence, screw or tape a straight piece of wood to the stock right on the line that needs cutting and then rip away.


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I'd do it on the band saw then smooth it up with a hand plane.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> I d do it on the band saw then smooth it up with a hand plane.
> 
> - bondogaposis


+1 for band saw :<)))))))))))


----------



## redlee (Apr 11, 2016)

> I d do it on the band saw then smooth it up with a hand plane.
> 
> - bondogaposis
> 
> ...


Yes providing he has one.


----------



## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I can't see why you can't create a temporary tapering jig to use on a table saw. I'd start with boards longer than 8 ft. Then screw a reference board at the appropriate angle to the board being cut. The extra length gives you a place to drive screws that will be cut off later. Also, maybe additional screws in other locations that won't matter. For example, where axle goes through.

The width of the reference board depends on the cut, which I couldn't fully understand from your description. If the taper is the full length, shallowest possible angle, then the reference board only needs to be a bit wider than the 6 inch wide board being cut. If the taper doesn't go from end to end, then the reference board needs to be wider.

Point is it needs to be wide enough that the wood being cut fits completely on it so that the whole assembly can fit between the fence and blade. With the wood clearing the fence while the reference edge rides against it. That may or may not be too big.

Particle board shelves make good temporary reference edges. I think some may even be available longer than 8 ft.

I also like the idea of rough cutting, anyway you can, and smoothing it out with a hand plane.


----------



## juanabee (Mar 1, 2010)

I used the circular saw method as advised by several above. It worked well after I figured out how to support the 8' 2×6 through the whole cut (duct tape along the edge of my "bench") It was easier than I expected. Thanks for your always sensible advise, lumberjocks. The cuts look pretty good, will beautify it with a hand plane.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Good job!


----------

