# What is the best way to change table saw blade?



## tool_junkie (Jun 23, 2011)

Hello Everyone,

This might just sound out right stupid of me to ask, but I am gonna ask anyways; what is the best way to change the blade on a table saw? I have been using the method outlined in my craftsman table saw manual which call out for using a piece of wood to secure the blade while loosening and tightening the arbor nut, but I never liked this idea. I recently bought the Milescraft "blade changer" and gave it a try for the first time today. (http://www.milescraft.com/product/3401.html)

The blade changer failed miserably! My blade just ate the plastcis bumps that are supposed to stop the blade from rotating while you loosen the arbor nut! It was a frustrating experience.

I need to find a better way to change the blade! Please share if you know of an easy way.

Thanks!


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I use my wooden push stick to stop the blade when changing it. The nut only needs to be tightened a bit since its reverse thread.


----------



## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I have always (because I was taught this way I suppose) used a block of wood, my push stick or whatever and a wrench. I have an old Craftsman saw that came with 2 wrenches. It has a hex or flats behind the blade for one wrench. I was taught to use a wood block. Like mentioned above it doesn't take much tightening because it should self tighten. Just snug it up good and saw!


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I don't know if this is kosher, but it's how I do it:

My Ridgid TS3660 has two wrenches. One fits on the inside of the blade, and you can gently rotate the shaft until that wrench is resting snugly against front edge the throat opening. Then you take the second wrench, put it on the outside of the blade, and pull toward you till the nut loosens. Reverse the process to reinstall.


----------



## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

That is the way this old Craftsman saw works but most saws have just the nut on the arbor and you use one wrench and the wood block holds the blade.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I also use my pushstick or whatever scrap I have lying around. I also never tighten the nut very much when I reinstall the blade…just snug it a little.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Wooden push stick or scrap piece of wood.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

Two wrenches. What method does your manual suggest?


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

When I had my Craftsman saw using a block of wood to secure the blade was the technique that I would use to loosen the blade. I tried the Benchdog version of your Milescraft product and did not like it either. Using a block of wood was much easier since there are always some lying around.


----------



## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

I made a little paddle shaped thngy out of 4/4 wood; shaped a handle on it and it lives in the drawer with the arbor wrench. My saw (long story) didn't come with a wrench so I bought a stock one and sawed off the end that didn't apply and dipped it in that Dip'n'Grip stuff.

+1 on the just snug the nut concept.

Kindly,

Lee


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Bench Dog Blade Loc. Put it over your blade and the friction keeps it from turning while loosening the nut. Much safer / easier than the old wooden stick method.


----------



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Whats not to like about the "wood" method?


----------



## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

I just use the two wrenches that came with my table. One holds the arbor in place while the other loosens/removes the nut. Kinda like on my router.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Two wrenches for me, seems to work well. Never felt the need to try any other way.


----------



## JimF (May 20, 2009)

I have a couple of left hand leather gloves (the right ones always wear out first). I just grip the blade with the gloved left hand and the wrench in the ungloved right hand. I feel better about recycling a glove rather than pitching it when the right wears out.

Just thought. does gthis mean my blades are not sharp enough since they don't cut the leather?


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Start off by unplugging your saw…....block of wood and a wrench and you're done. I've also used the "glove" method…...No need to overtighten the nut : )


----------



## TheWoodNerd (Aug 30, 2009)

I don't like the block of wood method, half the time the blade just chews right into it.

You're right, the Milescraft thing sucks. The Bench Dog works much better and I really liked the Saw-Jaw a lot. What I don't like is that none of them work with the riving knife on, if your saw has one.


----------



## mamell (Dec 24, 2015)

NO idea why I decided to resurrect this thread other than just running across it in a google search for blades, but every table saw I've owned has two opposing nuts or at least an arbor with a nut head configuration on the inside..just use two wrenches in opposing directions. 
Kind of funny Milescraft would even sell such tools..
Learn something new every day I guess..


----------

