# 1.75 vs 3 hp table saw



## jonsprague0000 (Jan 18, 2014)

I'm considering buying a SawStop professional cabinet saw and trying to decide between 1.75 and 3 hp. The difference will be roughly 500 dollars so I'm trying to determine if I really need the extra HP. I keep seeing people recommend the 3 hp because it cuts easier and lasts longer, but I would like to know what this really means.

Can people with experience give me specific examples and thicknesses of what they can cut with a 1.75 vs 3 hp? What are some restrictions on things that can't be cut with a 1.75 hp saw? I'll be using it for rips and dados.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

Ive been eyeing the 3hp for cutting 2-3 inch hardwood slabs on a regular basis. My research indicates that 1.75 will not provide the type of clean cut I am after. My little ridgid will go through 2-3 inch, but its a nasty cut.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

What The Box Whisperer said.
If you'll be ripping thick stock on a regular basis, go for the 3HP.

If I had 220 in my shop, I would've had a 3HP cabinet saw a longtime ago.

a 3HP sawstop will likely be the last saw you buy, so why not spend the extra now for the bigger motor in case your needs dictate it later on?


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## gtbuzz (Sep 19, 2011)

If you're routinely ripping 12/4 hard maple, then yeah, you'll see a nice benefit, however if most of your stock is 4/4 or less, there's not gonna be a huge difference. That's also not to say that you can't cut thick hardwoods on a 1.75hp saw, you've just got to use a nice sharp blade, the right blade for the job (ie don't use a fine crosscut blade if you're ripping), and watch your feed rate.

If you can swing the extra money though, I'd do it, simply for the fact that you've never heard of someone getting a 3hp saw and saying, gee I wish I had gotten a 1.75 HP saw. I've got the 3HP PCS and absolutely love it. Do I need it? Hell no. Am I glad I have it? You bet.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I have a 1.75hp PCS … been using it for about 2 years now and I am happy as a clam.

So far, I haven't run into anything I can't do with it. I have cut some 8/4 with it (red oak and maple) without any problem, but most of my work is with 4/4 or nominal S4S.

I do switch blades depending on what I am doing.


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## ScottStewart (Jul 24, 2012)

With my 3hp, I can push anything through I want to cut, have seen absolutely no restrictions on it. Do you have 220 and the type of plug the sawstop uses? (mine uses 2 hots and a ground, no neutral). If I had to do a bunch of rewiring, that might make me move one way or the other.


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

It basically depends on if you are going to use 110v or 220v. If you have 220v available then the 3hp is a no brainer. By the time you add the better fence and the 220v wiring kit to the 1.75 saw it's only a couple hundred less then the 3 hp version. So are you going to stay with 110v for the saw?


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

I upgraded to a 1.75 Delta Cabinet a few years back and found that with the right, thin Kerf blade I can cut anything I want and have a great finish. That being said, last year I picked up a 14" Delta Band Saw that does all my ripping now! Thinking about getting a newer and bigger band saw, much easier and safer to work with.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

I had a 1.75hp Sawstop; it was great for most wood thinner than 6/4 but as I started working cutting thicker slabs it really bogged down. I upgraded the saw to 3hp for about $600; the conversion was pretty easy but I should have just bought 3hp from the start.


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## Stoli (Mar 7, 2009)

I just decided to go for the 3HP version. My logic was that I already have 220 available, and this is the last saw I plan to purchase, so I wanted have the "pain" once in the initial price, instead of repeated for the life of the saw.

BTW, while the price difference is about $400, you are also upgraded to the dust collection blade guard, which is a $100 adder on the 1.75HP version. Combine this with the current special where you can get the overarm vac setup for free, and your are only talking about a $300 increase.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

I have a 3hp PM66 and I just ripped a 8/4 RO slab with the 60 tooth blade that was in it without any problems. Infact my usual ripping blade is a 50 tooth oldham signature series. I do have an old 24 tooth junker, but I only use it when ripping 3".


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## Minorhero (Apr 8, 2011)

Quality of cut is determined by your blade, speed and thickness of a cut is determined by hp. My 1hp 1950 unisaw makes a very clean cut on 6/4 stock I regularly run through it, but it is a lot slower at making the cut then the 5hp sawstop at the woodworking club. The unisaw still cuts and we are not talking about it taking all day, more like a matter of 15 seconds to cut 2 feet of 6/4 oak instead of 7 seconds on the 5hp saw.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

You shouldn't "*NEED*" a 3hp saw for most hobby work, but it is certainly a very noticeable improvement. If you have 220v, $430 additional (according to their website) is a fairly small percentage increase for > 70% increase in power. 3hp allows you to dictate the feed rate…1.75hp dictates it for you. Once you reach a certain price point, it'd be a shame to not end up with a top shelf saw that blows your mind every time you use it….I'd also opt for the T-Glide fence.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

Knotscott you have such a well spoken way to put things. +20 for what you said.


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## jonsprague0000 (Jan 18, 2014)

Thanks for all the replies. I do have a 220V available if I need one. Mostly I do hobby work with hard maple, mahogany, walnut, etc and do not go above 8/4 often. It sounds like I should just invest in the 3hp once I save up enough money so I have the power if I ever get the chance to make a slab table or something else that needs thick stock.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

Buy this instead, 5HP 12" with 1" arbor and 48×30 two inch thick cast iron top. Then spend the money you save on saw blades or wood.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

Make sure you get the better blade guard. The standard one on the 1.75hp is not that great.i


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

i saw that 12" griz at the munsy PA store. it makes the 1023 and the 690 look like tinker toys!


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## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

Dang. I was reading the thread because someday I'd like to upgrade to a sawstop and have exactly the same question about 1.75 vs. 3.0. I was enjoying the information and was quite impressed that it hadn't derailed as most sawstop threads do…


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## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

Doesn't seam like much of choice in my book. For the price I would get the 3hp.


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## lumbermeister (Dec 24, 2012)

I am contemplating the same question now re. HP required. It would not be too difficult to run 240V into my basement shop, but I cannot convince myself of the necessity. I will be upgrading from a Ridgid R4512 for several reasons (1 of them is widely discussed in these forums), but none of the reasons include power; i.e., the 13A, 1.5HP rated motor has cut through 8/4 hard maple, purple heart, and padauk using a Freud LU87 24 T thin kerf rip blade, and I have proceeded directly to glue-up following these cuts (cutting boards, some of the first projects I have done - did not bother posting as there are so many of these). I even used this saw and blade combo for the crosscuts - again, proceeding directly to glue-up. The saw did not struggle and the wood did not burn, so I do not, for myself, see the value of the 3 HP option (I know that the 3 HP is of value to many, for reasons of cut speed, overall feel, possible accuracy of cut with a full kerf blade that may be less likely to deflect, feed rate, and a wider choice of blade kerf and greater # of teeth accommodated by the larger motor).

My take: If you are happy with thin kerf blades, particularly thin kerf rip, and do not feel the need to utilize full kerf and/or high-tooth blade models, you may be very satisfied with the 14A, 1.75 HP model.


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I could be wrong but I don't think SawStop recommends thin kerf blades. I think they want you to use full kerf blades in their saws.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Earl-My SawStop PCS 1.75hp saw came with a thin-kerf blade with SawStop's name on it.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

I have the 1.75 hp PCS, would I buy this same saw again, the answer is without a doubt. Mine is a hobby, if it were a business I would get the 3hp. I can easily cut 8/4 oak and do dadoes without any problems, having said that, if I was going to be cutting wood of 8/4 or above all the time or cutting dadoes all the time I would consider the 3hp. Most of my work is 4/4 or less and it works flawlessly. Did I mention I use a full kerf combination blade most of the time. The trick is keeping your blades sharp and the saw adjusted which should be done anyway regardless of the hp. I believe one advantage is less chance of uncontrollable kickbacks with the smaller hp. For me I have a shop and garage so if I want to move the saw to my garage for a house project I can just plug it into another 110v outlet.

If you do go for the 1.75 make sure and get the better blade guard like someone else said.
Mike


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## jonsprague0000 (Jan 18, 2014)

I ended up purchasing the 3 hp PCS and am very happy with it. This saw is awesome. Ripping through 3" hardwoods is super easy. Thanks for all the feedback to help me make my decision.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Awesome! Thanks for the update…..got pics?


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## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

Ditto - pictures, please!


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## jonsprague0000 (Jan 18, 2014)

I uploaded a couple of pictures from different angles. The saw fits perfectly in my shop, aka garage, and is easy to work with. The dust collector works great with the saw. Most of the dust you see is a result of me cutting tenons and not turning on the dust collector.

The project I'm currently working on is the bedside table that is sitting on the saw in one of the pictures. I cut it entirely on the new saw and cut all the tenons on it. It's so easy with the table saw. Previously I would use a miter saw and router for the tenons. Now I can do it in 1/4 of the time and it is way more precise.

Let me know if you have any questions about the saw.


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## buildingmonkey (Mar 1, 2014)

I had to struggle with this decision about 10 years ago when I bought my Unisaw. Only then it was 3hp vs 5hp. Went with the 3hp and have been very happy. I use good blades and I can cut anything I want to.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I think I just got a semi.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

I have the 1.75 SawStop and have not found anything I could not cut. My brother has the 3 hp Delta unisaw, he was cutting a piece of thin plywood one day and let the plywood get out of line and the 3hp saw threw the sheet of plywood at him causing serious injury. So for me I have more time than lives so I will stay with the 1.75 hp. I can stall it if I hold on to the board.


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