# What is the best resaw blade?



## DrAllred (Sep 2, 2010)

First, I have searched and seen the reviews for the Highland Wood Slicer blade, and I am impressed with the reviews.

So, here are my questions, I have a Powermatic 14" bandsaw and I have not installed the riser block yet. I have a bunch (8) of 93.5" blades for it already and I want to resaw some wood for boxes, lids, and other items.

So, What is the best blade for this and I would like to hear what people think about their choice of blade?

Also, Should I bite the bullet and put the riser block in and start buying the 105" blades? I am happy right now but I can see that being able to resaw a 10" board in the future would be beneficial.

Thanks for your comments.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I just resawed some 8" boards a couple of days ago with the woodslicer, this is hot off the bandsaw table, the cuts are true end to end, and the cut surface is fairly smooth (not planed smooth, but not rough cut either):










the blade cuts smoothly and FAST even though it has a kink in the middle (my bad) it still performs superb,

since you asked - these are 6"+ boards and will probably won't fit on your bandsaw without the riser block.

you can see a couple more resaw pictures I posted on my bandsaw review here : http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/697

If you are planning on getting a riser block at some point - might as well do it now since the blades will not fit on the longer saw later on.

just my 2c


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

After I finally installed my resaw kit, I got the 105" Wood Slicer.

Amazing blade.

Like *PurpLev* mentioned, at the time: it's become my daily use blade, too.

I did, however, buy a 105" Lenox bi-metal blade for tighter curves. I just haven't needed it, yet.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I have a wood slicer but it drifts very bad. Any idea why?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Bert*:

There's a fairly current thread, over on SawMillCreek, talking about that very subject, right now.

I've been exceptionally lucky. My Grizzly, and the blades it's worn, have been virtually drift-free.

Also, I recently got a MagSwitch Resaw Fence, which-from my early experience with it-would make compensating for drift, in real-time, absolutely simple.

Note: As always, I like to admit that my brother is the product rep FOR MagSwitch. But … if I didn't like the product, I would simply say nothing about it ;-)


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## DrAllred (Sep 2, 2010)

I have the riser block, it is still in the box, I just jumped in and started working, should have put it on first then bought my blades. If I do add the block then I have to get new 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and a 3/4" blades of different tooth count to replace the 93.5" blades.

Hard choice, but then from what I have read, 2-3 wood slicer blades of different widths might be all I need.

Thanks


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I did the same thing, David: bought the riser kit on day one … installed it a year later, and had to gift TimberWolf blades to my eager brother ;-)

If you're never going to care about resawing anything > 6" wide, then … you may not care, but … I wanted to have that option-wider board resaw-and had to view the 93" blades as "sunk costs."

The Wood Slicers are fantastic blades, but …. for fine cuts, and tight radii … I hope I'm not too lazy to change out my blade for my 1/4" 6TPI Lenox Diemaster 2


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## lwllms (Jun 1, 2009)

The Lenox bi-metal Diemaster blades have been saving us a lot of money. We've used the Timberwolf and Woodslicer blades but they just don't compare to the Lenox blades. The best prices I've found is from Wood Craft Bands. This is a small one-man business and I like supporting the guy as well.

http://www.woodcraftbands.com/


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## LateNightOwl (Aug 13, 2009)

I recently switched from Timber Wolf blades to Woodslicers when I added Carter guides to my Rikon 10-325 14" Deluxe saw. What a great combination! I used a 1/2" Woodslicer to cut some 1/8" slices off a 11" tall chunk of oak using just the stock fence and there was absolutely NO drift whatsoever!


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## DrAllred (Sep 2, 2010)

I am working on bookmarks, and the re-sawing of them I need to be very thin, less than an 1/8th and really straight. I have the Carter style guides that came with the bandsaw, I have purchased an Olson 1/2" 3tpi Hook and it does OK but it is too rough and requires lots of clean up.

I have looked at the bi-metal blades and I want to know if they are smoother than others.

Thanks


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Any one us the carbide tipped from Lenox?
I read good thing about them.
Neil, thank you for the link

I have Kreg resaw fence.
I am not crazy about it as it is not tall enough and for some reason it does not fit my saw very well.
I am going to have to build another fence or an auxiliary fence.
I have an HF 14" handsaw with eh the riser,


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

How wide a blade for I should I use for resaw on a 14" band saw?. 
I use 1/2". 
It seems to me that a wider blade will not drift as bad. 
Is 1.00" too wide for a 14' wheel?
Have a wonderful day.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I just found this website:
http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/index.php/cPath/21_28

http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/product_info.php/cPath/21_24/products_id/29

Neil witch kind of tooth configuration do you use for resaw and for the other jobs?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Mine's this one
, *Bert*. So … 3-4TPI variable pitch.

From my understanding …. there's a lot of question as to whether a 14" band saw can get enough tension on a 1" wide blade, and … an inadequately tensioned blade is not going to be your friend, for resawing.

A bigger (say, 18") saw might be able to do it, but ….

And my 1/2" ... works. I don't (personally) see a reason to go wider, on a 14" saw.

Here's another link for you (the website is down, this morning, but you can try it later):

I've watched this guy for months, now. He's quite knowledgeable about band saws.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I think most of the smaller saws don't have enough room for running 
wider blades inside - the wheels are too shallow and you run the risk of
stripping the tips off the blade teeth if the blade creeps off the front
of the wheels. Unless you know something I don't about setting up
smaller saws, you're gonna have your saw throwing blades at the 
wheel guards from time to time. It's just inevitable in my experience - 
because I'm not a perfect saw operator.

Bigger saws don't have this problem much. Wider wheels and perhaps
a heavier build help the blades track better, even when the operator
is not careful.

I use a 1" carbide tipped blade on a 20" saw. The capacity to run wider
blades is one of the main reasons I recommend getting an 18" or bigger
saw if you're serious about working with solid woods. I've used the
WoodSlicer and it cuts nicely, but gets dull. I prefer the Timberwolf 1/2" 
blades for smaller saws because they are a lot cheaper and can be 
re-sharpened easily. They don't cut as fast as the WoodSlicer, but with
careful set-up they'll cut just as straight.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Lorn, "I prefer the Timberwolf 1/2" blades for smaller saws because they are a lot cheaper and can be
re-sharpened easily. They don't cut as fast as the WoodSlicer, but with
careful set-up they'll cut just as straight"

Timberwoldf says to not resharpen their blades, that they cannot be resharpen. I have issue getting my timberwolf cutting straight when resaw, it drifts a lot.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Of course they say that. It's in the brand's interest to have you 
throw away the blades and buy new ones. I'm sure they are concerned
about liability too.

I have a cheap Skil portable table saw and the instructions say to return it annually
to a Skil service center for a tune up. Totally ridiculous considering the
tool is basically disposable. I've had it for years and years and never
done a lick of maintenance on it and it still runs fine - but I'm totally
at odds with the manufacturers recommendations - which, if followed
by all owners, would flood their company with new revenues far
exceeding the original price of the tools.

You also are expected to recycle your drill batteries when they start
to die and you are advised strongly not to meddle with them, open
them up, replace dead cells, or surge charge them. But I do these
things and can attest that I get more life out of the tools by doing them - 
and I take responsibility for any risks arising from my choices.

Any blade can be resharpened if teeth aren't broken off.

Whether you get "like new" performance out of a resharpened
blade is a matter of how good a job you do with the tooth 
geometry. You may never get the same performance as new
out of a resharpened blade, but you will get more cutting life
out of it.

Blade drift is caused by several factors - some of which are hard to
track down and correct. I use a curved fence when resawing that 
allows correcting for drift while cutting. For accurate resawing, set 
the guides to real tight tolerances (so tight you have to readjust 
the upper guides every time you move the mount up or down).

I also recommend, if you don't have a real strong reason not to, to
rip stock to 4" wide or less and then resaw that. It's way easier to
get good results that way. Everybody wants to push the limits
and resaw 8" and 12" wide boards - but it's really a pain in the butt 
to get those cuts right, so unless you're sawing out guitar backs and
fronts or some other application where you must get a wide, thin
board, I say rip to 4", resaw, then joint and glue.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Yet another way to put *Loren*'s very smart post:

Make all your boards no wider than you can face joint, on your jointer


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## Gofor (Jan 12, 2008)

I am about done using Timberwolf. Too many warped blades, crooked welds, errant teeth (3 out of 4). Lenox blades I got with the saw (2nd hand) work fine, but don't know if the quality is still as good. Don't use the saw often so the Lennox blades are about 5 years old. The T'Wolfs have all been purchased in the last 2 years.

Go


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