# New Leigh Router Table Dovetail Jig



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I've been working at hand cutting dovetails, but this new Leigh RTJ400 dovetail jig looks really interesting. For some reason, this router table jig seems like a much better idea to me than the standard dovetail jig. Price is a bit steep at $365

Thoughts?


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## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

Looks like it's the same principle as the Porter-Cable jig but you move the workpiece and the template instead of the router. It takes 16" wide boards, so that's an advantage. I'm just wondering how cumbersome it would be with, say, a 16" by 30" by 3/4 piece. You're definitely going to want a large, high quality router table. And yeah, for 365 bucks a guy better plan on cutting a lot of dovetails.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

To me the most genius dovetail is a half blind machine cut dovetail. Cut both boards in one pass, with a guaranteed fit. Who came up with that? 
Through dovetails of coarse require two passes anyways, so these templates could work for you. Every year at the woodworking shows there is someone selling templates like this. The fence on the Leigh looks sturdier than some.


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## PRGDesigns (Jan 25, 2012)

I think Woodworker's Supply is going to start carrying these jigs and I thought the price was $299.00, for what it's worth. I have all of the previous Leigh jigs and they are designed and built extremely well. Thanks.


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## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

they are on sale now till the end of the year at Lee Valley for $299, and free shipping. after first of year price goes up to $329.


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## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

I saw this but for the same price I am thinking of getting the Incra LS


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## RRBOU (Feb 15, 2012)

I have the Incra and like it. But here are some thoughts. The incra cuts one board laying down, this is great for half blind joints. It sucks for through joints. You have to cut a relief grove for a joint by the incra, this sucks also.

problems with both designs: If your table is not dead flat you will have gaps. If your router is not exactly 90* to the table you will have gaps.

If your router is not dead centered in the collet your in trouble and will have gaps(not so on the incra as you reference from the fence and not a bushing.)

I would love to have the new Leigh jig as I have 2 routers in separate incra lifts and it would just be a matter of popping one out of the table and placing the other in.


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

This is very similar to the Katie jig from Sommerfeld: http://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/jigs-and-guides/sommerfeld-s-dovetail-jig


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

Looks like the General Tools EZ jig which sold for $40.00
Looked good but did not perform well
See review in the reviews section.


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

actually Abie, it's quite different from that jig. I think it's much closer to design Marc used. Here's part 1 of Marc's video if you want to see how his jig works: 




This is also an older version of the jig. It's now a solid plate (I own one).


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## WarrenC (Dec 30, 2014)

Have you had any luck in dovetails in Plywood? Tried a couple of time in Baltic Birch and I get splintering real bad


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## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

> I have the Incra and like it. But here are some thoughts. The incra cuts one board laying down, this is great for half blind joints. It sucks for through joints. You have to cut a relief grove for a joint by the incra, this sucks also.
> 
> problems with both designs: If your table is not dead flat you will have gaps. If your router is not exactly 90* to the table you will have gaps.
> 
> ...


At first I didn't understand your comment about the incra sucks at through dovetails. What I found was it requires an extra pass on piece that is lying down, is that what you meant?
My biggest concern I have read that the incra is limited to wide the board can be. Do you have any comment on what width is practical?

Thanks


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

The only real issue I see with it is that if one is making a blanket chest or something the whole 4ft long panel would be sticking up in the air. That could be quite awkward, having to balance the workpiece and hit the slots. I think I would rather manipulate my 5 lb router that a 20 plus pound 4 ft long board?


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

I love my Leigh jig, but this one doesn't look too good to me. It looks like the workpiece is clamped about three inches from the end. With a decent sized panel (like a blanket chest or drawer front) I would not want to be sliding that rig back and forth. Too much torque trying to tip the clamping mechanism. If the holding mechanism tips even slightly it will ruin the cut. Anything more than a slight tilt and it will grab the bit and "ruin your day". I would rather clamp the work and move the router.

When I use my router I know where the bit is and I keep a good hold until the motor has stopped spinning. Actually, when using my Leigh jig, after the router has stopped I usually place it on the bench top with the bit recessed in a bench dog hole. I really don't like the idea of a router bit sticking over an inch above the router table surface with absolutely NO guards in place.

Somebody needs to invent the "router stop" equivalent to the SawStop.Then I might try this new jig.


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

> Somebody needs to invent the "router stop" equivalent to the SawStop.Then I might try this new jig.


Really??? tell me you're not serious… If folks are that fearful of tools and equipment, they need to find a new hobby/profession. Wait, my guess is you think motorcycles are death traps too…


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

That was "tongue in cheek" in case you didn't get it, but I guess you do not own a SawStop. Probably ride without a helmet as well.

I am not too fearful of tools and equipment to know a potential problem when I see one. I am more than enough RESPECTFUL of tools and equipment to practice good shop safety.

Question: Do you think it is a good practice to make a 1' X 3' raised panel by tilting a table saw blade and running the piece through on end with just a standard rip fence? My fence is about as high as the clamps on that jig. Same issues with the piece tilting and catching the blade or bit. I wouldn't do it. Doesn't mean I am "too fearful" for woodworking. Just means I am prudent.


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## RRBOU (Feb 15, 2012)

> I have the Incra and like it. But here are some thoughts. The incra cuts one board laying down, this is great for half blind joints. It sucks for through joints. You have to cut a relief grove for a joint by the incra, this sucks also.
> 
> problems with both designs: If your table is not dead flat you will have gaps. If your router is not exactly 90* to the table you will have gaps.
> 
> ...


*

I have the Incra and like it. But here are some thoughts. The incra cuts one board laying down, this is great for half blind joints. It sucks for through joints. You have to cut a relief grove for a joint by the incra, this sucks also.

problems with both designs: If your table is not dead flat you will have gaps. If your router is not exactly 90* to the table you will have gaps.

If your router is not dead centered in the collet your in trouble and will have gaps(not so on the incra as you reference from the fence and not a bushing.)

I would love to have the new Leigh jig as I have 2 routers in separate incra lifts and it would just be a matter of popping one out of the table and placing the other in.

- RRBOU

At first I didn t understand your comment about the incra sucks at through dovetails. What I found was it requires an extra pass on piece that is lying down, is that what you meant?
My biggest concern I have read that the incra is limited to wide the board can be. Do you have any comment on what width is practical?

Thanks

- JoelB
[/QUOTE]

I have successfully made half blind joints on boards as wide as 14" but it was daunting. After about 8 inches you will get slight flex in the right angle fixture and although slight you will get gaps. I destroyed several blanket chest sides trying to use the Incra (I was determined to get it to work) and finely gave up. I now only use it for small boxes and draws.

I do not care for the Incra through dovetails because of all the relief cutting and it must be exact or you will get gaps. (Did I mention I hate gaps) One of these days I will have some shop time and I will find a way to make a shim for the right angle fixture so that both boards can be cut vertically (cutting the pins in the vertical position with a straight bit) and then try through dovetails with the incra again.

For through dovetails I want a Leigh D4R Pro or hand cut.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

> To me the most genius dovetail is a half blind machine cut dovetail. Cut both boards in one pass, with a guaranteed fit. Who came up with that?
> Through dovetails of coarse require two passes anyways, so these templates could work for you. Every year at the woodworking shows there is someone selling templates like this. The fence on the Leigh looks sturdier than some.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


+1
I don't have a dovetail jig, but if I ever get one I want it to do both pieces at once.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

> Somebody needs to invent the "router stop" equivalent to the SawStop.Then I might try this new jig.
> 
> Really??? tell me you re not serious… If folks are that fearful of tools and equipment, they need to find a new hobby/profession. Wait, my guess is you think motorcycles are death traps too…
> 
> - wbrisett


I'd buy that, wouldn't want it to drop down. Probably stall and fall away… Hmmmm.


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

> That was "tongue in cheek" in case you didn t get it, but I guess you do not own a SawStop. Probably ride without a helmet as well.


That's the problem with online/email exchanges, sarcasm is sometimes lost.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I think I have bought, and or used every single dovetail jig on the market. I've wasted more time and money on trying to save a dollar when there wasn't enough to start with in the first place. Anything under a hundred bucks is futile at best, unless you have the rest of your life to make a single drawer.

Oh the horrors that happen. It wouldn't matter how much you spend on one, if the brain matter doesn't connect with the methodology thought out by the manufacturer, in other words, if you put an idiot on the jig and arm them with weapon, much can go wrong. Inexperience can result in nano speed spending on repairs to both body and machine. Ive seen more perfectly good wood tossed, bent jig fingers on the Leigh, sparks flying, router bits breaking, just general anarchy. Thus the beautiful curve of knowledge and experience, sure doesn't come cheap 
: ))

To the dude who asked about cutting raised panels on the table saw…. 100% correct, safe and easy if you make a jig.

I have personally had good experiences with the Leigh, its well thought out, and has endless combinations and permutations for laying out dovetails. If sacrificial wood parts are used, blowouts are gonzo. Its pretty quick, once the learning curve is absorbed. I'ld even give it 5 stars.

I bought the Festool Jig for 1 big reason, after spending hundreds and hundreds of bucks on frustration, I finally bought it, as its heavy duty, easy and quick to set up, and works flawlessly, day after day, week after week, year after year. I only use it for half blind doves on drawers in kitchens, furniture built ins. Not saying the others don't work because they do, jus sayn as nice as I can, I cant afford error's.

Anything thats fancy, Im at the point where I can cut them faster by hand and I have yet to see a machine made through dovetail, where the tails come to a sharp point. That point screams "hand done"


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## southport (Oct 20, 2014)

I was beginning to think this Leigh RTJ400 didn't actually exist as I cannot find it anywhere in stock. Unusual feeling having the money and no one wanting to relieve me of it. Anyone UK side of the pond know of any to be got.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

I am inventing a saw stop style mechanism for my oven. If my hand touches the hot grill or oven it s going to retract and go into the basement in a milisecond. I just hope my cat isn't in the basement.


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