# Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920



## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920*

I don't normally blog, but I figured this would be a project worth writing about. Over the past few months I've been downsizing my shop since I had the epiphany that I had too many large tools. I found that you can't use your shop if you can't get in it. Aside from that, I could use the extra money from selling a few of these. With this in mind, I've sold my Ridgid jointer, traded my big drill press to a friend (he needed it a lot more than me), and I've now sold my Ridgid R4511. I can hear the boo's from here. If you've seen my table saw workstation project, I think it explains how highly I think of the table saw. Needless to say, I sold the Ridgid and purchased a cheaper saw, which is what this blog is about.

The saw I got is a Craftsman Model 113.29920 10" Tilting Arbor Bench Saw. Don't let the name fool you. As far as I'm concerned, this thing is a contractor saw. I've got a set of pulleys and a twist belt in the mail. Aside from that, I've begun breaking the saw down. I'm going to hit it with a good dose of EVAPORUST and replace the arbor bearings. I'll be off to get those tomorrow. I think it's noteworthy that the saw ran fine when I got it. But, being the paranoid type that can't help but make things better, I decided to go with overkill on this saw and replace the 50+ year old bearings. For now, enjoy the pictures....










Almost forgot to mention, I'm planning on putting my Incra on this saw and build another table saw workstation…..


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920*
> 
> I don't normally blog, but I figured this would be a project worth writing about. Over the past few months I've been downsizing my shop since I had the epiphany that I had too many large tools. I found that you can't use your shop if you can't get in it. Aside from that, I could use the extra money from selling a few of these. With this in mind, I've sold my Ridgid jointer, traded my big drill press to a friend (he needed it a lot more than me), and I've now sold my Ridgid R4511. I can hear the boo's from here. If you've seen my table saw workstation project, I think it explains how highly I think of the table saw. Needless to say, I sold the Ridgid and purchased a cheaper saw, which is what this blog is about.
> 
> ...


I can't wait to see what you do with this. While I enjoy looking at the photos on the internet, I'm also going to have to ride over your way and see it when you're done. 
I hope you plan to blog the whole process of building it so we can see the steps and not just the finished product. If you don't do that, will you be at least updating the photos that you linked to on this blog?
As for the saw, these old saws are great when they are running right, and it sounds like you aren't taking any chances on that. You're already replacing the main things that may cause you problems down the road, like bearings and such. So, you're already a step ahead of what most people would be. 
I'll be willing to bet you'll love this once it's done.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920*
> 
> I don't normally blog, but I figured this would be a project worth writing about. Over the past few months I've been downsizing my shop since I had the epiphany that I had too many large tools. I found that you can't use your shop if you can't get in it. Aside from that, I could use the extra money from selling a few of these. With this in mind, I've sold my Ridgid jointer, traded my big drill press to a friend (he needed it a lot more than me), and I've now sold my Ridgid R4511. I can hear the boo's from here. If you've seen my table saw workstation project, I think it explains how highly I think of the table saw. Needless to say, I sold the Ridgid and purchased a cheaper saw, which is what this blog is about.
> 
> ...


This is definitely blog worthy. Please keep us up to speed on your progress. I think you are going to have a pretty cool saw when you are done.


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## Jason34 (Oct 17, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920*
> 
> I don't normally blog, but I figured this would be a project worth writing about. Over the past few months I've been downsizing my shop since I had the epiphany that I had too many large tools. I found that you can't use your shop if you can't get in it. Aside from that, I could use the extra money from selling a few of these. With this in mind, I've sold my Ridgid jointer, traded my big drill press to a friend (he needed it a lot more than me), and I've now sold my Ridgid R4511. I can hear the boo's from here. If you've seen my table saw workstation project, I think it explains how highly I think of the table saw. Needless to say, I sold the Ridgid and purchased a cheaper saw, which is what this blog is about.
> 
> ...


My wife's uncle gave me an old craftsman TS at the beginning of the summer. It has just been sitting in the garage so far. The motor works, but isn't attached and I haven't taken the time to figure out where the pins, bearings, etc go.

I'll follow your blog and may have to do one of my own when I get around to refurbing the one I have.

Best of luck.


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## garmos (Feb 12, 2016)

KTMM said:


> *Rebuilding a vintage Craftsman Table Saw 113.29920*
> 
> I don't normally blog, but I figured this would be a project worth writing about. Over the past few months I've been downsizing my shop since I had the epiphany that I had too many large tools. I found that you can't use your shop if you can't get in it. Aside from that, I could use the extra money from selling a few of these. With this in mind, I've sold my Ridgid jointer, traded my big drill press to a friend (he needed it a lot more than me), and I've now sold my Ridgid R4511. I can hear the boo's from here. If you've seen my table saw workstation project, I think it explains how highly I think of the table saw. Needless to say, I sold the Ridgid and purchased a cheaper saw, which is what this blog is about.
> 
> ...


KTMM, I just bought this TS and signed up for Lumberjocks. It's in great shape but I was interested in looking at some of the pictures of yours. Everytime i click on a link to your photos it says the pictures are private. Is there something I need to do to view pictures on this site or have the photos been deleted?


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*The thinking phase.....*

I managed to get the old arbor bearings out of the saw last night. Thankfully, I have no intention of re-using them, since I messed the casing of one of them up while extracting them. I have an uncle that works for Motion Industries locally, he is more or less the guy you call around here when you need bearings of any type. So, never one to pass up talking to family I don't get to see very often, I gave him a call and had him cross-reference the two arbor bearings. The replacements should be in tomorrow. I'll post a picture of the old and new ones once I have them, along with some part numbers. So, the ball bearings are rolling on that part…..

I don't know about you guys, but I am the kind of guy that pours over plans (mine and others) until I have everything memorized to a certain extent. Then I throw them to the wind an build my project. So, this entry is more or less of a memory dump of two days of reflection on what I'm going to do with this saw.

1) I want to repaint the body of the saw…. I'm looking at this color…..

2) I want the saw back to being shiny. I have two gallons of Evaporust for cleaning up steel parts, the only downside is that it leaves a gunmetal color to the steel. I think this could easily be remedied by some heavy polishing. Ideas welcome…..

3) I want to install my incra TS-LS 32" on the saw. This will require four 3/8 inch holes to be drilled in the front and back of the table saw table. This will accommodate the mounting mechanics of the rails.

4) Zero clearance insert(s). I ordered a phenolic one for the saw from Highland Woodworking. It should do great for my everyday blade(s). I want one for each of my molding heads and the dado blades. The problem with the insert is that it is held in by two screws, it has no leveling screws, and it is 3/32nds of an inch thick. I think that a planer table for small parts is in my future.

5) I want to build a mobile table saw base for the saw, along with an improved router table. I found an old Shopnotes article for a bench saw station that I really like. I have some improvements to it I'd like to make.
I found a picture, but I don't want to post it, since i don't have rights to it.

Well that's enough for me, I'm off to bed to dream of restored saws and matching cabinets….......


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

KTMM said:


> *The thinking phase.....*
> 
> I managed to get the old arbor bearings out of the saw last night. Thankfully, I have no intention of re-using them, since I messed the casing of one of them up while extracting them. I have an uncle that works for Motion Industries locally, he is more or less the guy you call around here when you need bearings of any type. So, never one to pass up talking to family I don't get to see very often, I gave him a call and had him cross-reference the two arbor bearings. The replacements should be in tomorrow. I'll post a picture of the old and new ones once I have them, along with some part numbers. So, the ball bearings are rolling on that part…..
> 
> ...


I used that saw for many years. Inherited it from my Dad. A lot of good memories.

I was able to buy the arbor with bearings from Sears for a pretty good price. I think they still stock them.

Like you say, the insert is just a an aluminum plate. I was able to make thicker ones out of hardwood, using the plate as a template. Then I rabbeted the outside edge until it sat flush. It worked well.

I am sure glad that you are using a new fence.

I am watching,
Steve


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *The thinking phase.....*
> 
> I managed to get the old arbor bearings out of the saw last night. Thankfully, I have no intention of re-using them, since I messed the casing of one of them up while extracting them. I have an uncle that works for Motion Industries locally, he is more or less the guy you call around here when you need bearings of any type. So, never one to pass up talking to family I don't get to see very often, I gave him a call and had him cross-reference the two arbor bearings. The replacements should be in tomorrow. I'll post a picture of the old and new ones once I have them, along with some part numbers. So, the ball bearings are rolling on that part…..
> 
> ...


I love the color. That is VERY similar to the color I was thinking of using if I redid my old Dewalt Radial Arm Saw. I've kind of come to the conclusion that you can go wrong painting old tools the same color of similarly aged hotrods (-:

I'm no longer planning to repaint the RAS because I think it is in good enough shape to use without painting, but I may do it someday just for fun.

I REALLY can't wait to see photos of the painted piece.

I've got some bearing replacing to do of my own on the jointer project you stopped by to visit a while ago. Still not sure how I'm going to go about getting the old ones pulled and the new ones pressed, but I'll find someone.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*Cleanup and motor breakdown*

Ok guys there are some pictures of the table top before and after my cleaning session. Aside from that, most all of the small parts have been Evaporusted. The top is not as nice as I want it, but I'll get it there eventually.

See the pictures here.... 

Now to the dilemma. I broke down the motor and was rather frightened at what I found. The motor was in great need of cleaning as I dumped almost 2 cups of sawdust out of it without any scrubbing. For some reason impacted sawdust and electrical current seem like a bad mix to me. The dilemma I face now is whether to replace or rebuild the motor. I can most likely rebuild the motor myself, I'm going to make a couple of calls tomorrow and see if I can get the parts for it. The capacitor appeared to have a small crack in it, which could be a problem in the future. Also, the wires in the motor appear to have dry rotted insulation on them.

On the other hand, I could just get a replacement motor. I know this would be more expensive, but it might be worth while…...

Sorry there aren't any pictures of the motor breakdown. Till next time…...

Update from tonight…..

I talked to a buddy who used to do a lot of industrial work on electric motors. His advice was to swap the bearings on the motor and run it till it burns up. With that in mind I contacted my uncle and had him order the motor bearings for me. I did learn after a bit of reading that it's a good idea to use a punch and mark the motor bells BEFORE dis-assembly. It's also a good idea to take pictures of where wires are connected BEFORE de-soldering them. Oh well, I'll figure out how it all goes back together soon enough.

Today I did get a chance to price a quality replacement motor for the saw. Prices range from $150 to $300 for a quality motor. That compared to about $15 bucks and a good dusting to get this motor in good shape seems like a deal to me.


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## DenverDave (Aug 6, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *Cleanup and motor breakdown*
> 
> Ok guys there are some pictures of the table top before and after my cleaning session. Aside from that, most all of the small parts have been Evaporusted. The top is not as nice as I want it, but I'll get it there eventually.
> 
> ...


Those old saws are like works of art. I have one made around 1950.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *Cleanup and motor breakdown*
> 
> Ok guys there are some pictures of the table top before and after my cleaning session. Aside from that, most all of the small parts have been Evaporusted. The top is not as nice as I want it, but I'll get it there eventually.
> 
> ...


If it is possible to rebuild at a reasonable price and you have the knowhow to do it, I woulddefinately rebuild the old motor over buying a new one. If nothing else, just for the sake of keeping it original. 
However, if by chance you do decide to go with the new motor route, are you going to keep the same horsepower rating or go a little bigger? I do not know the ramifications of going with a higher output motor but can't help but think it's somthing that may be worth checking into. Maybe someone else here has done the same and went bigger and can give some input?


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *Cleanup and motor breakdown*
> 
> Ok guys there are some pictures of the table top before and after my cleaning session. Aside from that, most all of the small parts have been Evaporusted. The top is not as nice as I want it, but I'll get it there eventually.
> 
> ...


I wish I had advice. Unfortunately, I'm mostly learning from how you overcome these obstacles. A motor replacement is definitely not a cheap option though.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*Know where your tools are and know when the right tool is in front of you...*

Last night I couldn't run my air compressor to clean out the motor windings, which isn't a big deal. Soooo, Today at lunch I came home and went to fire up the compressor. Well, the compressor was where it should be, but I didn't have the air sprayer nozzle. I spent about 20 minutes looking for it and couldn't find it. Oh well, I just waited till I got off work to look for it. An hour after cleaning and re-arranging my shop I found it in a small shoebox bin along with all the other miscellaneous air compressor parts and fittings. Right where I left it a couple of months ago, except that it was hidden by a stack of boards against a wall. The down side is that by the time I found it, it was ten p.m. Most of my neighbors don't mind me banging around till about 12, but I have a baby and a school age child trying to sleep after nine, so I'm on hold till tomorrow again.

So, undeterred I decided to remove the other bad bearing from the motor arbor. I got stumped. I don't have a pulley puller, or a press, so I had to rely on the good old duct tape, chewing gum, super glue, and bailing wire ingenuity. I began by clamping a wrench on the table of my drill press, and trying to press the arbor out. This was unreliable at best, the table tilted, the wrench bent (a wee bit, might be worth a trip to Sears for a replacement if they even do that anymore) and the arbor laughed at me. At least I think it did.

So, I came in the house, and worked on some hand sharpening of a plane blade (grinding by hand sucks, but I hate burning antique tools on my bench grinder even with a white wheel). Fifteen minutes of that and I had another idea, just stack wrenches between the magnet and the bearing and use the top wrench to pry the bearing loose. The problem is that the magnet has cooling fins that get in the way of stacking wrenches. So, I spent a while staring at tools and parts throughout the shop….

After some careful examination of the arbor shaft, I realized that it steps up in size from the tip to where the bearing is located at. It goes from 5/8 to 11/16. I also realized that I had purchased some heavy duty penetrating oil and saturated the bearing accordingly. So I grabbed a couple of 5/8 wrenches and slipped them on the arbor shaft, they stopped about 1 1/2 inches from where the bearing was mounted. I used a pair of c-clamps between the bearing and the wrenches and began to work on pulling the bearing. Slow and steady, alternating pressure, the bearing popped off. The good news is, I didn't mess up the shaft as far as I can tell, and this time tomorrow, I should be putting the motor back together…... Maybe.

I didn't take any pictures tonight, but I'll put some up detailing the re-assembly and the method I used for pulling the bearings if I get some free time tomorrow.

Also, I got the first good news on a replacement motor. A friend gave me some very reasonable prices on a replacement 1 and 1-1/2 HP motor that will work great on this saw. I plan to go ahead and rebuild the one I've got for the time being, but eventually when I've got the $$$ I will replace it with a bit safer motor. I say safer after doing some research. From what I've found the old open frame motors are considered to be fire hazards and have been replaced with enclosed and sealed motors….. Till next time.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *Know where your tools are and know when the right tool is in front of you...*
> 
> Last night I couldn't run my air compressor to clean out the motor windings, which isn't a big deal. Soooo, Today at lunch I came home and went to fire up the compressor. Well, the compressor was where it should be, but I didn't have the air sprayer nozzle. I spent about 20 minutes looking for it and couldn't find it. Oh well, I just waited till I got off work to look for it. An hour after cleaning and re-arranging my shop I found it in a small shoebox bin along with all the other miscellaneous air compressor parts and fittings. Right where I left it a couple of months ago, except that it was hidden by a stack of boards against a wall. The down side is that by the time I found it, it was ten p.m. Most of my neighbors don't mind me banging around till about 12, but I have a baby and a school age child trying to sleep after nine, so I'm on hold till tomorrow again.
> 
> ...


I am just putting the finishing touches on my version of an air compressor cart. It has drawers for all the air tools, parts, tool oil, brads etc. for this very reason.

As far as the open frame motors go, you have an air compressor, right? Just keep blowing the saw dust out of the windings once in a while and it will be fine. The one on my saw is still going strong after 40+ years.

I have a saw similar to yours, a Craftsman 113.29901, circa late 60's, that I rebuilt and use all the time. It will be a workhorse when you get it done.

BUT - no pictures? How about pictures? I love watching old arn being restored.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *Know where your tools are and know when the right tool is in front of you...*
> 
> Last night I couldn't run my air compressor to clean out the motor windings, which isn't a big deal. Soooo, Today at lunch I came home and went to fire up the compressor. Well, the compressor was where it should be, but I didn't have the air sprayer nozzle. I spent about 20 minutes looking for it and couldn't find it. Oh well, I just waited till I got off work to look for it. An hour after cleaning and re-arranging my shop I found it in a small shoebox bin along with all the other miscellaneous air compressor parts and fittings. Right where I left it a couple of months ago, except that it was hidden by a stack of boards against a wall. The down side is that by the time I found it, it was ten p.m. Most of my neighbors don't mind me banging around till about 12, but I have a baby and a school age child trying to sleep after nine, so I'm on hold till tomorrow again.
> 
> ...


If you mean you bent a Craftsman wrench, then yes, Sears does exchange them. They have a lifetime warrenty on the handtools. Everything besides handtools though is pretty much sold as is from my experience. Electrical tools for example can be torn to pieces out of the box and you have a hard time getting them exchanged without an act of congress.
Next time I have extra cash while at Harbour Freight, there's a three piece jaw type pulley puller set I've looked at several times. I never by it because I'm funny about buying sets when I know I won't use them all. I have no need for the smallest one. Now I know someone who might can use it in the future. 
As for having problems finding the sprayer nozzle, I am laughing with you, not at you. You've seen my shop, I spent thirty minutes just yesterday hunting for my tape measure. I'm always losing stuff. This one turned out to be funny though. I had laid it on the table sort of behind and to the left of my miter saw. Then I had worked there chopping up scrap wood on the miter saw to throw in the back room for firewood. I must have cut more than I thought, because I had completely covered up my tape measure in a pile of sawdust.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*It's ALIVE.......................*

Well, today I did get to come home at lunch and dust out the motor, and let me tell you, it looked 40 years younger when I did. The windings were actually nice and shiny underneath the layers of old sawdust…..










With that out of the way, I was able to move on. I pressed the new bearings onto the arbor using a deep socket and rubber mallet to tap them into place. With that out of the way I put things back together in the manner I dis-assembled them. Since, I didn't make notes or take comprehensive pictures of dis-assembling the motor. The schematics I found on Sears parts website helped me get it back together. Also, the wiring in the motor is old aluminum, and pretty much holds it's shape, so figuring out where I de-soldered wires wasn't too hard.

The moment of truth came, and there it was. I plugged in the motor, it hummed, and sat still. FOR A FEW SECONDS. A thump, and whir, and off it went, spinning quietly and ready to work. The delay when I plugged it in was most likely from the capacitor charging. The next time I plugged it in, it fired right up. I will mention that when the motor is running, it does hum a bit, but I think that's normal for a motor of this type and age. With the motor running, I'm ready to get back to working on the saw and getting it ready for painting. I still have some parts to de-rust, and a good bit of scrubbing before painting. I'm shooting at having this thing painted Saturday…....

Make sure you look at the album, here.

Oh yeah, check out the frowning mashed taters from supper tonight…..


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *It's ALIVE.......................*
> 
> Well, today I did get to come home at lunch and dust out the motor, and let me tell you, it looked 40 years younger when I did. The windings were actually nice and shiny underneath the layers of old sawdust…..
> 
> ...


That's a creative way to pull a bearing. I may need to use that idea. Unfortunately, it is WAY cheaper to buy a puller than a press and the press is the one I'd most like to have. I worry about the mallet idea because I'm pretty sure the pressure should all be applied to the inner race. It may have worked well for you, but I am pretty clumsy with this stuff!


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *It's ALIVE.......................*
> 
> Well, today I did get to come home at lunch and dust out the motor, and let me tell you, it looked 40 years younger when I did. The windings were actually nice and shiny underneath the layers of old sawdust…..
> 
> ...


I guess I should point out that the socket was the same size as the inner race. DON'T EVER hammer on the walls or outer race of a bearing. This CAN lead to a catastrophic failure. A press would have been better to use, but I take it easy on this stuff, tapping it into place, so I'm not that worried about it.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *It's ALIVE.......................*
> 
> Well, today I did get to come home at lunch and dust out the motor, and let me tell you, it looked 40 years younger when I did. The windings were actually nice and shiny underneath the layers of old sawdust…..
> 
> ...


thanks for letting me know that. I guess I could buy a new socket just to fit over the shaft. That would be much cheaper than buying a press. I like that idea actually. Thanks!


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*FUMES and FIRE, painted......*

Well, with all the fumes, the saw colors make it look like it's on fire.

Today, I got to spray some primer and some paint. I painted our living room red last summer before we moved in. I forgot how poorly red paint coats, and just how many coats it takes to get something truly red. Persistence, and two cans of Rustoleum paid off. Here's the result…









 
Make sure you look at the rest of the album. I did get around to painting the motor and the other parts orange. I only had enough paint to give the orange parts one coat.

Well, there's still a ways to go, but I'm pretty sure, I'll have this puppy cutting wood this coming weekend…... Then I'll be moving on to the base. I've got some ideas for the base, but I've got to get the rails on the saw to figure up some final dimensions. With that in mind, I've got to drill and tap some 3/8" holes for mounting the rail system….. HI HO, HI HO, it's off to bed I go…..


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## Delta356 (Aug 2, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *FUMES and FIRE, painted......*
> 
> Well, with all the fumes, the saw colors make it look like it's on fire.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Those craftsman table saw's are fun to restore. I restored an 8" craftsman two years ago.
Those saws work great with a new paint job.

Thanks, Michael Frey

FREY WOODWORKING INC.


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## Sawdust2 (Mar 18, 2007)

KTMM said:


> *FUMES and FIRE, painted......*
> 
> Well, with all the fumes, the saw colors make it look like it's on fire.
> 
> ...


58 years ago, when I was 8, the Craftsman 8" TS was the first saw I used. Dad only had the best (at the time).
When I was 11 and had my first school shop class the teacher was really pissed (and scared) when I went over to use the school's TS.

Lee


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *FUMES and FIRE, painted......*
> 
> Well, with all the fumes, the saw colors make it look like it's on fire.
> 
> ...


The red and orange are going to compliment each other perfectly. It's already starting to look car-like. When I went to the photobucket pics, I had to take another look at the fourth photo. A quick look I thought for shure that you were for some reason throwing in a front timing cover for one of the old wedge motors out of the sixties. The first thing that popped into my head was the old school triple deuce setup.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*If you plan for walls and screw ups, they aren't that bad......*

Back when I started woodworking, I didn't plan for mistakes, warpage, mis-measurement, illness, broken tools, mismatched sets, bad hair days and the list goes on. I had a bad habit of planning one weekend jobs that took four months to complete. (Just look at the first arcade machine) I would get frustrated and angry when things didn't work. I guess age and being realistic help one to plan for the unforeseeable. These days, I plan on a certain number of things going wrong on a project. For the saw rebuild, the number I picked was seven….

Today proved to be an exercise in counting. Let's start with the painting. I made a boo boo, and didn't completely cover the cradle section of the saw with the orange paint. That's not so bad, but when you add in the little motor cover, and the motor bracket that I completely forgot to paint, it becomes apparent that we have 1 good sized mistake. This mistake will cost me another day to wait for paint to cure after I get them painted. Fortunately, I can put the main saw together and get the alignment out of the way before mounting the motor.

The second mistake came when I attempted to press the inside blade stabilizer onto the arbor shaft. I broke the drill press. IMMEDIATE 1 MISTAKE. I'm pretty broke, so I'll be using a hand drill for a while it looks like. This mistake gets to me mainly because the drill press belongs to a friend. Pretty much his tools are mine and he can use my shop when he wants is how it works. Even with that in mind, I don't like breaking my tools, and I hate destroying other people's tools. Needless to say, I will wind up having to fix this. A tool bites the dust (for now).

The last mistake comes at the end of getting the arbor assembly back together. A spring clip that holds the arbor where it belongs got rather deformed when I removed it initially. Upon reassembly it decided it didn't want to stay in it's groove. So, there's the 3rd setback.

Oh well, today turned out to be a three for one (don't add in the, "you didn't get the job" letter I got in the mail) and today has turned out to be full of dysfunction. Oh well, there's always tomorrow. I'll get the pictures on then, I'm too tired to do it tonight. Till next time….........


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *If you plan for walls and screw ups, they aren't that bad......*
> 
> Back when I started woodworking, I didn't plan for mistakes, warpage, mis-measurement, illness, broken tools, mismatched sets, bad hair days and the list goes on. I had a bad habit of planning one weekend jobs that took four months to complete. (Just look at the first arcade machine) I would get frustrated and angry when things didn't work. I guess age and being realistic help one to plan for the unforeseeable. These days, I plan on a certain number of things going wrong on a project. For the saw rebuild, the number I picked was seven….
> 
> ...


The trick is how we handle those mishaps. Keep your head up. From what I've seen, the saw is coming along great. It looks like you've taken care that it'll look better than the factory original when you're done.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *If you plan for walls and screw ups, they aren't that bad......*
> 
> Back when I started woodworking, I didn't plan for mistakes, warpage, mis-measurement, illness, broken tools, mismatched sets, bad hair days and the list goes on. I had a bad habit of planning one weekend jobs that took four months to complete. (Just look at the first arcade machine) I would get frustrated and angry when things didn't work. I guess age and being realistic help one to plan for the unforeseeable. These days, I plan on a certain number of things going wrong on a project. For the saw rebuild, the number I picked was seven….
> 
> ...


You are right. There is always tomorrow. Sorry to hear it is giving you trouble, but at least you measure your mistakes in day. I measure mine in weeks (-:


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*The saw is in one piece and running.......*

At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.

Let me note here that before putting the arbor assembly on the cradle, please make sure the pulley fits. The replacement pulleys that I got fit good and tight. Due to some scratching on the arbor key, the pulley took a bit of persuasion to get it where I wanted it on the shaft. I had to remove the arbor piece from the cradle to get the pulley where it needed to be.

Have a look at the album at this point.. 

I think you will be pleased to see the result. The saw is back in one piece. There is much to do at this point.

Before I re-assembled the saw I made a decision to drill and tap the bolt holes for the fence system to fit into. The saw originally had three holes drilled across the front of it to accept the three bolts for the stock fence. I decided to put 3/8 wide threaded holes on the front and back of the saw for the incra system to mount to. Well it turned out that the front holes were drilled to a size that was ready for the 3/8 tap to bore. I tapped the rear holes using a 5/16 drill bit and I tapped them to accept the 3/8 pattern. At this point I have four holes ready to have an incra mounted to them.

Ok, so with all this done, the saw was re-assembled. I turned the motor on with the new belt, and guess what. *IT RUNS LIKE IT'S READY TO CUT A HOUSE IN HALF…...* The saw is ready to be tuned up, and put to use. SO guys, UNTIL NEXT TIME…........


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## steve71 (Sep 29, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


i love it, it looks great.


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## IkeandBerry (Jun 18, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


I have the exact same saw with a different base. I bought it about six months ago. Ironically I chose the same paint colors that you did when I cleaned up to start using it. I love this saw. It is the best one I have owned yet.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


That's awesome. I did get to fire the saw up earlier, and boy is it loud compared to the ridgid I had. I think that once the dust bin and new base are done the sound quality will fix itself.

I'm waiting on the saw pals to get here tomorrow before I do all of the final tuning, but something tells me that I'm about to hit the shop and install the incra…....


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


That looks really great so far. How did you loose the clip? Was it one of those things where it pops off and shoots across the room? I've had that happen but more often it is the "I know I put it someplace safe so I won't loose it, but where was that place?".


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


I put all of the parts into little bags when I removed them and had them laid out in the order they came off. I assume the part was in a bag, but then again it may have shot off and never reached the bag…... Two months from now, when I move my in-shop wood pile, I'll probably find it then.


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## cmmyakman (Feb 16, 2011)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


I have a 113.27520 Sears Craftsman table saw that was my late grandfather's (I assume he purchased it new). In the past week I purchased an Incra TS-LS 32 and then saw your post. I haven't installed the fence yet, but am wondering how did you overcome the motor impacting the fence when you want to cut with a high blade angle tilt?


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


If you look in the album you'll see the replacement pulleys and the segmented belt I have installed. To work out the problem you mention, I installed the motor extended about as far as it could safely be installed. I don't know what the proper term is, but I am referring to the two bolts that hold the motor assembly in, loosen those and extend the motor out of the back. I then tilted the motor to 45 and installed the belt with a length that suited it in this place.


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## cmmyakman (Feb 16, 2011)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


Wow, that was a super fast response! I see from your pictures what you mean for the fix, thank you very much I will do the same.

1. FYI - I saw on a separate thread (http://lumberjocks.com/topics/16978) that someone felt it optimal to use an after market alignment device "PALS" (http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html). I just ordered one as it looks like a good idea.

2. Can you please tell me where you purchased the segmented belt and what length is it?

Have a great day,
CMM


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


I have the pals on mine, You can get the belt and pulley kit from in-line industries, peachtreewoodworking, or woodcraft. I think peachtree sells the pulleys and belt in a kit. Be ready to do some filing to get the pals to work. Make sure you finish this blog and follow the links, you'll need the information to set your saw up correctly.


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## cmmyakman (Feb 16, 2011)

KTMM said:


> *The saw is in one piece and running.......*
> 
> At this point I would like to add screw up number four to the list. I managed to lose an E-clip that holds the vertical adjustment worm gear in place. I went to a few auto parts places and none of them had the clips. I wound up at the local ACE hardware which had the exact part in stock. With the part in hand, completing the assembly was pretty easy.
> 
> ...


Great, thank you very much for all of your help.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*

HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.

So, I guess it would be a good idea to tell you guys that I did get the Incra fence installed on my saw. It was really quite simple. If you have one and find yourself having problems installing it, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Also, make sure you have a dial micrometer for alignment, it will make it much easier. (Hey, you spent money on the Incra, get something to align it with.) Check out that saw goodness.....










After a couple hours aligning the fence and blade assembly I decided I needed to check the blade alignment at 45 degrees. That was when it happened…... 27, 28, 29, 30 degrees, wow this crank is getting tight….....










The picture explains everything. With the blade at full height, the motor mount contact the rear Incra rail, stopping it at around 31 degrees. That's when I decided it was a good time to call it quits…..

I have a solution for the problem, so don't fear. Only two more setbacks to go…...


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


ohh, that does suck. I'm looking forward to the solution though.


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## gary351 (Sep 29, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


Lengthen that belt, and pull those metal dolls out farther. Better get your wife to put a band - aid on it.lol


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


Did both, which will remedy the problem. I did get to add slack to the belt and got the blade to 45 degrees tonight. After rasing the blade, it still made contact and wound up chocking against the bracket of the Incra, until I lowered the saw blade. That resulted in the belt falling off, and the motor falling. WHAM, the motor slipped back and I decided it was too much excitement for me tonight. I'm way to tired and headed to bed.

Whenever I get the other saw base built I should be cooking with gas, since the motor won't have anything to collide with underneath. Until then, I plan to slide the saw back on the stand so that the motor is overhanging freely off the back side.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


I moved the saw to the back of the base so that the motor is overhanging and doesn't have anything to bump into on the bottom. This along with the lengthening of the belt has fixed that problem. I hit a new wall though. After doing a realignment at the 0 degree position, I moved the blade to 45 degrees and guess what… The alignment was completely blown out. I'm beginning to see the downside of contractor saws. I am undeterred and will return to align later this week…. With that out of the way, it will be time to begin work on the new table saw base / workstation.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


I hope you get it aligned correctly soon. I can't wait to see the workstation started. If my finances work out I will try to get over that way after the first of the month to take a look in person.


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## garmos (Feb 12, 2016)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


Any special type of paint for the motor?


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


The incra comes with spare brackets for situations where you need a rear split rail. Check your part bags.

M


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## Miranthis (Nov 26, 2014)

KTMM said:


> *How the Incra screwed up my table saw.....*
> 
> HAHA, got your attention. No, the Incra didn't REALLY screw up my table saw, it just created a new hurdle to overcome. (Note here this will be set-back/screw up number five.) I have an Incra TS-LS 32 that is probably the best investment I have in my shop. If Incra made a circular saw fence, I would own it too. (Might not need a table saw if they did that.) But, this entry is not to praise the Incra, it is to scold the Incra, and all of it's micro-adjustable goodness.
> 
> ...


Had a similar problem with the contractor saw PALS and my Craftsman 113.29902 in that the longer studs interfered with the rip fence bracket as you got to around 39 or 40 degrees of blade tilt. A LOT of dremel work on the bracket later and the PALS stud no longer contacts any part of the rip fence bracket. Yours looks good, btw…still like the old TS

Jeff in KC


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*Long and tedious.......*

It's been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don't have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…

I noticed three problems while working on the alignment of my saw. First, the blade alignment was never quite right no matter how much work I did or how I adjusted it. Second, with the belt off, I realized that the arbor shaft would move in and out by about 1/32 of an inch. And third, I noticed that the

So, I noticed the 0 degree alignment was off by about .002 and the 45 degree alignment was off by around 1/8 of an inch from the front of the blade to the back. To fix this, I installed three 3/8 washers between the front mount and the table top. This reduced the 45 degree alignment difference down to .005 of an inch with the rear being high now. I've not gotten around to it, but I'll shim the back with an old beer can and that problem should be fixed. The problem that remained was with the 0 degree alignment. I pulled the whole saw apart and used a round file to open up the mounting holes for the saw cradle assembly. Like I said, read ajosephg's file and it lists how to do all of this. I also took the time to file two flat spots on either side of the rear mount so that the PALS had a flat area to push against. (The PALS instructions say to do this). I mounted the front and rear, and alignment for the 0 degree was a cinch.

While I had the saw apart I decided to remedy the arbor problem. The way the bearings and arbor assembly mount on this saw there is supposed to be a spring washer between the saw side bearing and the inside of the mounting area. Also there is a plate / washer that mounts using three screws on the pulley side of the arbor. That plate / washer is concave shaped so that when it's tightened down it pushes the bearing into it's mount and keeps it there. I noticed that particular washer / plate was now convex and wasn't applying any pressure to the bearing race as it should. So, I pulled the pulle off, flipped the washer / plate over and screwed it back in place. Problem solved right? Nope. as soon as I began to tap the pulley back onto the shaft, the recoil popped the washer / plate back out. Undeterred I did some creative bending and re-installed the piece. Problem solved…. I should note that I had the arbor shaft mounted in a vice so that I was not leaving the bearings to absorb the blows from the rubber mallet as I installed the pulley.

With two problems out of the way, I only had one more left. The source of my blade wobble, the inner mount for the blade. To fix it, I followed the advice here. The only difference is that I used an 80 grit truing stone for grinder wheels. It worked like a charm.

So at this point, I have to finish shimming the back mount and re-install the incra fence and I should be on my way to building that new saw workstation…...


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *Long and tedious.......*
> 
> It's been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don't have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…
> 
> ...


You've presented some very interesting reading in this post. I the links to all this, but after reading just some of this, I believe that all of it is beneficial for all table saws. My saw, for example, is fairly new and cuts great. However, after reading some of this, I think checking some of the very fine allignment on it may explain some of the little things I've just learned to live with in the past. I may even be able to actually get a glue line rip eventually. While my saw cuts great, I've always had to run a sander over the edges before gluing. Good isn't always good enough if you know what I mean.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *Long and tedious.......*
> 
> It's been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don't have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…
> 
> ...


Good job! Appreciate your kind words, and posting my story, I was always going to post it, but you know - just never got around to it.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *Long and tedious.......*
> 
> It's been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don't have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…
> 
> ...


Just got the saw aligned with less than a .001 difference at 0 degrees, and there is a .001 difference from front to back at 45 degrees. I should note that 24 oz beer cans and 8 oz soda cans have different thicknesses. I used pieces from both to get the rear mount shimmed.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *Long and tedious.......*
> 
> It's been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don't have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…
> 
> ...


That is great shimming advice!! And to think I almost spend money on shim stock from McMaster Carr.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *Long and tedious.......*
> 
> It's been a while, too long in fact since updating. I don't have pictures with this one, so I must go ahead and apologize for that. I want to take this time to thank ajosephg for his document on making an old saw do new tricks. His insight was much needed, and is the reason my saw is not scrap metal right now. Also, this helped me fix the wobble in my arbor…
> 
> ...


Hokie, I find it hard to believe they even make commercially available shim stock anymore. Almost anything can be used for shim stock. I haven't had a need in quite a few years, but we used all kinds of stuff for shim stock lining up motor pulleys when I was doing industial mechanic works years ago. My memory has went into the toilet, but I used to be able to tell you the thickness exactly to the decimal point of aluminum cans from various producers, playing cards, banding straps, and even sardine can lids. We just cut the thicker shims out of various thickness iron. I thought I'd seen it all in the vast world of shims, until one day we moved a motor that hadn't been moved since the 1940s and found it shimmed with a carefully cut scale from a very large fish. I think it came from a buffalo (fish common in the Mississippi river with large thick scales).


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*It's rebuilt, now it's time for the addons........ base and router cabinet*

I did get the base cut down and reassembled. I took the 2' x 6' base that I used on my R4511 and cut it down to 2' x 4'. Also, the original base had 4 pieces of 6' angle iron strapped to the bottom of it. This one only has 2 pieces of 4' (cut from 6') angle iron strapped to the bottom. I don't see why this base needs to be as ridgid as the last, since it will be holding half as much weight. I went ahead and re-used the router table cabinet from the last base. I guess this means there won't be an old woody look to it, but I can live with that. The next piece to finish is going to be the base that the actual saw sits on. It will have the power switches mounted in it with a knee operated shutoff. For now, enjoy the pictures.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *It's rebuilt, now it's time for the addons........ base and router cabinet*
> 
> I did get the base cut down and reassembled. I took the 2' x 6' base that I used on my R4511 and cut it down to 2' x 4'. Also, the original base had 4 pieces of 6' angle iron strapped to the bottom of it. This one only has 2 pieces of 4' (cut from 6') angle iron strapped to the bottom. I don't see why this base needs to be as ridgid as the last, since it will be holding half as much weight. I went ahead and re-used the router table cabinet from the last base. I guess this means there won't be an old woody look to it, but I can live with that. The next piece to finish is going to be the base that the actual saw sits on. It will have the power switches mounted in it with a knee operated shutoff. For now, enjoy the pictures.


Looks like a great start. I am sort of disappointed that you can't do the woody design. However, I completely understand that designs have to be changed sometimes. Maybe you could add a theme to it later on.
I'll be plenty interested in how you do your knee operated shutoff. I have looked at several different designs on this general idea and have very much considered adding this as a safety feature to my own saw. I have been caught off guard a coule of times when I would have loved to be able to just shut the saw down where I was at without having to turn loose of the wood at hand.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *It's rebuilt, now it's time for the addons........ base and router cabinet*
> 
> I did get the base cut down and reassembled. I took the 2' x 6' base that I used on my R4511 and cut it down to 2' x 4'. Also, the original base had 4 pieces of 6' angle iron strapped to the bottom of it. This one only has 2 pieces of 4' (cut from 6') angle iron strapped to the bottom. I don't see why this base needs to be as ridgid as the last, since it will be holding half as much weight. I went ahead and re-used the router table cabinet from the last base. I guess this means there won't be an old woody look to it, but I can live with that. The next piece to finish is going to be the base that the actual saw sits on. It will have the power switches mounted in it with a knee operated shutoff. For now, enjoy the pictures.


You are moving along nicely.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*

Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.

The only drawback I had assembling the saw base was cutting the hole in the top. I used the actual table saw to outline the hole on the base. Well, I decided it would best be cut out the hole using my jig-saw and not my sawzall. The sawzall may have been a better choice. I managed to butcher a hole into the top, and luckily, it wasn't too much bigger than the bottom of the table saw. The jigsaw I have, was purchased when I first started woodworking. I found it on sale at about 25% of the original price in a BORG several years back. I was blown away by it's Scrolling action, and powerful 6 amp motor and the price was right. The downright stupid things we do with money. The saw does scroll, pretty much wherever it wants to go, and it has enough power to destroy projects pretty quickly, so I guess it does what the package said. Enough about that, look at the unit before and after…....



















With that done, it was time to start on all that wiring. I got a two way keyed switch along with two rocker switches to control the table saw and router. The two way switch will be used to switch power between the table saw and router switches, so that only one can be on at any given time. I selected rocker switches to use since they will work nicely with my knee operated mechanism to kill them both. The way I see it, I don't want the power to be super easy to turn on, but SUPER easy to turn off. If you notice in the second picture I managed to cut the three holes for the power boxes, and I also managed to run the cords where they are needed. The problem is that I cut the holes too closely together, so that the covers won't fit. Which is why I gave up for the night, took some pictures and went to bed. (Note the beer can on top of the saw extension, it had nothing to do with the boxes being too close together. It wasn't opened until after I messed the switches up.) So, until next time, keep the saws a going, and the fingers intact and don't drink and drill….....


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


Are you able to just remove that piece of wood and recut the switch holes?


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


You might look into a plastic three gang box, the type made for retrofit wiring. It may allow you to just cut out the wood between the present holes. Then you could cover with a single 3 gang switch plate.

If not, like William said, you can undo your pocket hole screws and replace that side of your cabinet. If you replace you may be able to cut holes with the cabinet piece horizontal in a bench scroll saw or build a quick template and cut the three holes with a spiral down cut bit in your router?

Good luck and don't let a little set back like this slow you down! We look forward to seeing updates on your progress.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


Making good progress. What brand is the fence and rail system you are using?


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


Roz: that looks like Incra rails and fence.

KTMM: looks like you can replace the top board where you cut the holes with a new one????


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


Sorry guys, I've been swamped with work and after hours work. Here are some responses…..

William: Yes, and I plan to.

Viking: Great Idea, but I already got some better suited single boxes, more on that later…...

Roz: That is an Incra TS-LS 32. Possibly one of the best investments in my shop, just do a search for Incra….. The only drawback is the space it takes up (fence capacity x2)

Charliel: I couldn't agree more. I know where I want the switches. Just wait and see what I've got in store for these…...

Howie: YOU WIN THE GRAND PRIZE. Bragging rights for being right on both counts.

I'm looking forward to a little shop time soon so that I can finish this and answer some questions comments with pictures….. Till' then, take care everybody.


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## OKCVintage (Feb 13, 2011)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


KTMM: thanks for sharing your project with the rest of this community forum. I am a newbie to the forum and to woodworking, in general. I have recently bought a C-TS similar to yours and am in the process of tearing it down, removing dust, rust and the like. This one is in fairly good shape, but i have run into 2 probems: the crank handle on the arbor elevation worm gear won't budge even after lots of "liquid wrench". Do you have any advice on how to remove it? The second, my 3/4 HP motor badly needs the cleaning and inspection of the wire coils. How did you take apart the housing? Mine is very stubbornly stuck together; I used a rubber mallet to try to loosen the end plates, but I am very reluctant to use too much force. Which end of the motor should I try to pry off first; the brushing end of the shaft or the other? Thanks for the help and congratulations on the successful project you have posted here.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


With the motor, check the yellow pages in your local area, normally there's an electrical motor shop somewhere around. If so, take that puppy with you and see if the guys there can give you some advice. On the other hand, searspartsdirect has breakdown diagrams for pretty much every tool sears has ever sold, but you'll need the sears part number. I don't buy parts from Sears unless it's the last resort. Also, the motor probably has aluminum wiring in it, it gets super fragile with age. I managed to break a bit of mine while I was rebuilding the motor. Another point is that the bells on the motor are aligned a certain way. MAKE SURE YOU MARK BOTH SIDES IN REFERENCE TO THE CENTER HOUSING BEFORE DISSASEMBLY. I had to use a cold chisel to persuade the end bells off my motor. As far as the stuck gear assembly goes, there is some stuff that's better than liquid wrench, but I couldn't tell you the name of it. My dad used to get it from an industrial supplier. I might even recommend a bit of evaporust, but you'll have to put it in a spray bottle and continue to spray the area for a couple of days. (Unless you can soak it).

On another note, there is an update coming soon. I have the saw wired up and working, but I'm trying to finish the router table. Once it's done, I'll update everything, along with the little special surprise that I didn't originally intend to do…....


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


You know I have done mechanic work most of my life. I have tried just about every penetrating oil out there. There used to be some stuff called snake oil that was sold by industrial suppliers. That stuff was great. If something wouldn't move, spray it good, take a coffee break, and when you came back it would be just about disassembled for you. It disappeared though. I suspect governement regulation for it's disappearance, maybe the EPA. These days, the best I have found is PB Blaster. It's on the pricy side, but it's worth keeping a can around. I keep a can hidden in my shop so that noone else grabs it and wastes it. It's for my own use when needed. 
I'll be watching for the update. I like surprises.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


Man, I feel like a real horses butt for not putting the final post on this. I'll have it up this weekend, I promise….


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


OKCVintage, 
there was a thread on here a couple of weeks ago. They referred you to a test that was on the internet. The best penetrating oil was home made. They used half power steering fluid and half acetone. 
Check this out:
HTTP://STERKEL.ORG/PAPERS/VINTAGE/TESTINGPENETRATINGOILS.PDF
This is a lot of good information in my opinion.
hhhmmmm when I post this the word penetrating become italics and the underscores go away. When I go to edit they come back….go figure


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## Brodimus_Max (Sep 24, 2013)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


I recently picked up one of these saws on craigslist. The guy I bought if from did a nice job cleaning it up. When I run the saw, however, it rattles a bit. I haven't put on a link belt yet (next step), but I'm thinking that the arbor bearings may be bad. When I lift the motor to relieve some stress on the bearings, it sounds great. Did you have any issues with bearings? Also, on my saw, the weight of the motor (which is substantial) acts as the tension on the belt. Is this the same with yours? I saw a sears diagram that looked like some models had a fixed motor with a tensioner. Anyway, your saw looks great! I'm starting to build an outfeed table and cabinet around it much like yours.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


I was working on my son-in-laws Craftsman saw. He is not mechanical so he took things apart and tossed them in multiple boxes. The little spring clips on the belt guard ARE $10 each!! ouch!! Since I didn't see the saw before hand (not that it would have mattered) I had a lot of guess work to do and a lot of reading from the manual. I had a similar situation. I found a place on the motor mount and I think in the manual that showed a spring. The 2 halves of the motor mount hinge on the bottom side and the weight of the motor holds the bracket open to tension the belt. I did install a new belt (regular V-belt). I found a place with 2 small posts and had the idea to put a spring on these posts to hold the mount open. I think it helped with the bouncing and vibration. I think his manual showed this spring but I can't remember. Anyway, I got the spring at ACE hardware.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *The saw has a new home / I hate jigsaws / Why I'm not an electrician...*
> 
> Well guys, after spending the days before and after Thanksgiving sick with a stomach bug, I decided I was going to get something done before going back to work Monday. So, after getting my strength back, I decided to go out to the shop and put the saw base together. Last weekend a buddy of mine came over to play the part of outfeed table and we progressed to get the pieces cut for the base of the saw. All in all, it's a pretty simple box with a hole cut in the top so that sawdust can fall down into it. It is cut custom to the saw, and is held together using a bunch of pocket screws.
> 
> ...


I completely replaced all of the bearings on that table saw, it did use the motor weight to hold the belt in place.

William has it now, so any questions can be routed his direction.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

*After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*

Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....

There is a good bit of blood sweat and tears in that project. Actually no, more like beer, planning and a lot of good days working with my hands….



















Notice that Babycake wants to demonstrate how easy the dust collection works by flipping a simple switch…..

On the front of the unit, the fixed faceplates for switches (minus the one for the key switch, I never finished it, burned two drill bits trying to cut it.) That was perfected by Master scroll saw artist William. That's an Incra TS-LS on there, if you look at the gallery you'll see the Miter 5000 sled that goes with it. I hate to draw this blog to a final closing, but I've reached that point it would seem. Until the next project.

P.S. a combination of recent things has led me to decide to sell this project as a whole…... PM me if you're interested.


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## IkeandBerry (Jun 18, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


Nice work. I have a craftsman table saw that is almost identical to yours and I chose to paint mine red when I cleaned it up. I love my old craftsman.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


Very nice. The last time I saw this it was not in the same shape. You have managed to take a relatively small bedded table saw and mod it with a great fence, dust collection , power storage and much more. Way to go. And looks like you are getting some fantastic help with those redheaded shop elves.
Just remember the next cut you make be ready to duck


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


Looks like a great shop additon!


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


Yeah, too bad I'm selling it off piece by piece.


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## McDade (Apr 14, 2015)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


I know this project is old and the author sold this saw but I found this post after buying almost the exact same saw myself, so had to comment.

I am currently working on cleaning up my saw and this blog has been a great reference, Thank you for taking the time to write it. For anyone else out there refurbishing a vintage craftsman saw this is a great read.


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## KTMM (Aug 28, 2009)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comment, I'm still around, but scarce these days. Other hobbies have called me away and my shop is now nothing more than a glorified storage room. I like to hear when a project I worked on can help somebody out. William now has that saw, so if you have any questions he's a wealth of knowledge.


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## Brodimus_Max (Sep 24, 2013)

KTMM said:


> *After much delay and empty promises, it draws to an end.*
> 
> Well, the table saw / router workstation are finished. (At least as finished as I care to make them.) Have a look here.....
> 
> ...


I know this is an old post, but I have the same saw and undertaking a similar project. I'm currently designing the mobile base with built in router and dust collection. That dust collector you have looks smaller than any I've been able to find. Do you recall what it is and where you found it?


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