# Making a workbench, without a workbench



## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

*Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*

This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.

For those of you that follow my blog, there will be quite a bit of duplication but I really enjoy the discussions and questions on Lumberjocks so I want to replicate it on here in, possibly, a slightly different format.

*Make your own bench*

First of all make your own bench with confidence. I will help you through every stage and in a few days, no more than say four, you will have your new workbench ready to use. It will last you a lifetime and you will grow to just love it. I can make this bench in one day once I have my tops and laminated legs glued up and dried.

*Who can you learn from?*



Several people have asked me about recommending a bench to use that will cater to their needs. In the midst of mass information we must rely on people with active knowledge from a working background to pass on their skills and knowledge. Hopefully that information will be unbiased and free, easily assimilated into the new-genre woodworker and put an end to a pluralist confusion surrounding working workbenches driven and steered by gurus of woodworking who often pass on plans and information from lofty views and create a mystery in the offing. I see more and more that we live in a confused age even though we have such a mass of information. Dissecting and finding the truth is very difficult because we create unnecessary obstacles, conditions and complexities that make building workbenches an overwhelming task when a simple workbench can be completed in a few short days for under $100. Add a quick release, all-cast metal vise that will last for a century for somewhere around the same cost and you are in business. I address this article to new woodworkers, but my friends with more experience and skill can use it to help others get on the right track.

*A bench-making course for you*

The next few days is a course for you to follow and use and it's free. It is an ideal workbench no one would be ashamed of using and owning and it has worked for me for 48 years. I have used this exact workbench everyday for that time. Over the years I have made many a dozen of these and so has Joseph who made them to sell when he was 13 years old until he was 20.

*What you will learn*

This workshop is a training workshop. You will learn how to laminate worktops, form mortise and tenon joints, create wedged housing dadoes and much more. You will understand the need to remove twist, cup and bow from your stock: Warpage must go. Truing up the benchtop laminates and legs will become a favourite and I will even include sharpening your Stanley #4 to do all of your donkey work first. No thick irons, no sales pitch on heavyweight planes, no retrofits and no nonsense woodworking. Watch this space!!

*Hardwood in the red corner, softwood in the blue!!!*

Firstly let me say that softwoods are not wimp woods at all. Spruce for instance per weight/strength ratio beats all other woods hands down. Myths I must bust is that the best so-called European workbenches (that term was to sell workbenches to Americans in the same way they created English muffins that are nothing like English muffins) came from Europe and are made mainly from hardwood. That softwood is unsuitable and should never be used is also a myth. That woodworkers throughout Europe including Britain used mostly hardwoods such as ash and oak is another myth and hardwood does not mean better wood than softwood and hardwood does not mean that the wood is hard though it can be and often is. Look how we are progressing already!! Hardwood is twice the price of softwood at least and it's a waste of good wood to use hardwood when softwood is as good or better. That means half the cost at least.

*Accepting the lesser species*










In the US and Europe, pine is regarded generally as a cheap, low-grade soft-grained trash wood ideally hidden beneath sheetrock, painted or stained to some type of pseudo hardwood colour. Let me tell you about a few of my favourite woods-pine, fir and spruce. Within this range there are well over 120 different types of pine alone. Pine is a wood used to create a massive range of vernacular working tables throughout the Northern Hemisphere to help tradesmen and women in their work. From loom frames to scullery tables and saw horses to the woodworking bench, pine knows no equal in my view and the view of thousands upon millions of workmen and women through many centuries. In no way should it be relegated to the lowest class of workbench and in no way will you ever be disappointed should you make your first and last workbench from this mere wood.




*Wood works best*

Wooden benches have never been replaced by any other material with any measure of success. MDF, pressed fibre boards of different types and even plywood have never come close and so I want to present a real wood for real woodworkers of any level.

Try first of all to think differently of pine and spruce. Put them together as one wood hybridised, both in reality and in your mind.

Now think of the two as a unique species-strong, resilient, elastic, absorbing. When I go to the wood suppliers I can pretty much tell my species, but many such woods are indeed hybridised and, as crossed species, less identifiably distinctive. That's how I look at pines and other softwood species. Workbenches made from pine are strong, resilient, elastic and absorbing. Throughout Scandinavia, mainland Europe and Britain, almost all woodworking benches were made and used by craftsmen for their own use and were never made for sale. As a woodworker I could never buy a workbench no matter how well it was made, how good it was or how little time I had. European softwoods were the wood of choice even when most if not all European countries had access to hardwoods. Pine or spruce, hemlock or Douglas fir, I have used them all with equal measure. You need have no fear that pine will not hold up to the wear and tear of everyday work no matter the weight or the demands you place on it, so let's get down to the lumberyard and choose our wood.


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## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


will keep an eye on this


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Thank you Paul.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


fantastic write up - thanks for posting Paul.


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## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


I think you'll be going against the grain here. But I like your write-up. I have a lot of Pine in my shop for many of the reasons you stated….................


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## jimmyjj (Nov 20, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


nicely explained


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


I alredy looked to the video on your blog.

What was most impressive, is that you used a complete warped surface for the glue up.

I retain the following lessons :
- you really don't need much to build your bench;
- don't rely on the work surface to obtain a flat top;
- corollary : don't blame the poor working surface if you get poor results.

I have two questions:
- how much glue was necessary for this half top?
- what type of glue did you use?
(the available standard available here are EN204 D2 "normal", EN 204 D3 "water resistant", or EN 204 D4 (exterior - polyurethane) [brand "BISON" or "PATTEX"], I would of course not use "top speed" for this.
Pattex is an HENKEL product and is probably marketed under other names elsewhere (Ponal in Germany?, Unibond in UK?).


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this Paul. What you are saying will be considered heresy by some, but I am confident that you will be teaching us something new and true. I like hardwoods a lot, but I have found pine to be very strong and useful. I have felt for a long time that construction methods for most wooden products used for practical purposes are more important than the the wood type, with few exceptions.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


You've piqued my curiosity. It does make sense to have a work surface softer than your projects.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Here in the Castle where I have my workshop, an aspect of the castle is actually a very prestigious home with 350 rooms. If you look back in my blog you will see. Anyway, the fancy rooms for the rich had oak every where, but most of the rooms used by staff and for support of the house had furniture, fitments and equipment made primarily from pine and other softwoods.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Thanks for doing this, I'm getting ready to build a new work bench and this is timely for me.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Always nice to see a stimulating post from you Paul. I'm looking forward to the series.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Yeah,
Good to hear from you. Hope you are well. I have discovered something new about saw sharpening that knocks the socks of everything so far. Can't wait to share. it, but will do so soon as my new book is done.
Best for now,

Paul


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Hi paul,
Looks forward to follow this blog, you are always a inspiration.
And also to her the sharpening news…
Smiles and wishes of a great summer to you and the family,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Paul - this is outstanding stuff, looking forward to seeing more. Nothing wrong at all using pine for a workbench. Dings and dents mean a workbench in use, nothing more. And isnt' that what it's for?

Yours is a great style of writing, too. Thanks for posting here!


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Thanks Smitty,

Gotta get people woodworking and get rid of all procrastinating that says you can't do it this way or that way. I think I have likely made at least fifty benches this way through the years although not all of them in my back yard.

This is fun to do though. Not everyone has much more than a back yard to work in and I wanted the challenge to be as real as possible so I can forewarn those following what to look out for.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


I built a bench out of Douglas fir few years back.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111066821954491027746/IBuiltABench

Paul, you are my favorite teacher BECAUSE you go against the grain and you teach what works, not what is fashionable and/or snobbish.
Paul you are #1.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


It's you guys who are numero uno. I just do what I was born to be and do and that's work wood into practical things, sometimes useless things but always things that people can hopefully live with. The whole point of real woodworking is finding what exactly is the balance. I think that occasionally I have some answers that enhamce life and gets a few people off of the conveyor belt.

Best to everyone on Lumberjocks,

Your friend,

Paul


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## HobbyForElli (Jun 24, 2015)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Hello, Paul,

I'm new to this site and your blog has already been recommended to me - and I have to say I understand why! I have a question regarding your work bench, I need a proper workbench but the only place I have to put it is in the backgarden where there's no cover. I would only be able to cover it with a tarp. Do you have any suggestions? Would the one in this blog work for that?

Thanks!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Build a small roof above it!


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## HobbyForElli (Jun 24, 2015)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Hah, I definitely don't have the skill for that and even if I did I live in a rental so can't.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


I don't get many questions on here so I was surprised. I think the best thing here is to coat the whole bench with a water-based outdoor stain varnish like the kind you would use on say a garden bench. I made one four years ago, I mean garden seat here. Three coats and it has stayed good throughout. You could hinge a protective cover over it so you lift it up and out of the way toward the back so it leans against a wall. For long periods when not in use you can buy a good tarp and wrap it for protection. At least then you will be working wood.


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## HobbyForElli (Jun 24, 2015)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the advise. Again, I'm really not good enough to be adding things like to something but the vanish would work! I really appreciate the help


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## dbockel2 (Oct 19, 2015)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


I must say, I watched the entire series of you building the workbench over the weekend and was completely captivated by so much of what and how you worked. The ease with which you used the hand plane, the accuracy with which you carved out dados and made precise measurements and the unique techniques you used to get your results (love the knife wall concept). It really made me re-evaluate the way I think about power tools and hand tools and how I think about building projects. Thank you!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


Yes, Paul Sellers is numero Uno and my very favorite teacher.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


"Pine or spruce, hemlock or Douglas fir, I have used them all with equal measure. You need have no fear that pine will not hold up to the wear and tear of everyday work no matter the weight or the demands you place on it, so let's get down to the lumberyard and choose our wood."

I made my own bench from "Lowe" 2×12 Douglas fir many years ago, it holds wonderfully well.

http://s765.photobucket.com/user/b2rtch/library/New%20bench?sort=3&page=1


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## dbockel2 (Oct 19, 2015)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


One other comment-While I really like the bench you built you never showed the hardware installation (though you mentioned the hardware arriving in the first or second video of the series). Will there be any additional videos showing the clamp/tail vise installations? Are they so simple to install that it is not worth showing? Also, can you or anyone else recommend any high quality/reasonably priced hardware to complement the bench? Seems like that is the most expensive part and while perhaps not necessary to have, I can only assume having the ability to clamp down work is a very helpful feature to have! The tail vises I find online, while beautiful, all seem to be in the $300 range. Perhaps that is the standard cost for this sort of thing but as someone with a very limited knowledge of vises/clamps, I would love to hear from people with a deeper knowledge bench than I.

Thanks again.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Introduction and choosing wood, why I use pine*
> 
> This is a series that I have started that I will be doing over the next few weeks on my blog and on YouTube.
> 
> ...


dbockel2, if you look at the link I posted above, you will see that on my bench I used two vises.
I realize that these are not tail vises but they work very well for what I am doing.
I bought these vise at Harbor Freight for a very low price ( around $30.00, I believe). HF no longer carry these vises but I am sure that you could find them somewhere else like E-Bay or Alibaba.


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## PaulSellers (May 13, 2011)

*Laminating the top (with video)*

*Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*

If the video below is not working please use this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru2ZiNsWek






http://www.youtube.com/subscribewidget?p=paulsellerswoodwork

This replicates my personal workbench, one I have used and preferred over all others for, well, actually, half a century. Let's talk briefly about benches and specifically working workbenches and not images of what a bench should be. Anyone can build any bench type they like, regardless of whether it works well or not, is big and clunky and lacks versatility. I know at the end of the day when you finished making your workbench you will have fallen in love with it.

Aside from all of that, when you work at a bench there are several criteria that must be faced. Probably the most critical is size, this then comes down to you building into what you have available as your creative workspace. There is a lot in my earlier blogs on developing a Creative Workspace. This is a critical phase in that development so the allotted space is important and then there is you. You are tall or short or average. The bench needs to fit you. If someone will be using your bench and is a different height it is a simple matter to make a floor board or jack the bench up on a 2×4. I here many fallacious statements about bench heights. Fact is you must try to find one beforehand to try out. All of my benches at the workshop are 38" high. That suits me as mister average height but my friend Matt at 6'4" finds it too low, but not the 5" discrepancy between him and me. He likes the bench to be at 40". You can make the bench taller, try it for a week and cut some off the legs if you feel doubtful at all. My 38" bench seems to suit everyone between 5'4 and 6'0". Most men and women fall within that range.

My bench is a traditional British joiner's workbench. My personal knowledge and research shows this bench to be typical of just about every workbench made and has been used by boat builders, joiners and furniture makers throughout history. Pine of some type be it pine, spruce, fir or a hybrid of each is an ideal wood for workbenches and a bench made using the methods and design that follow will last you for at least a century and more. So let's get started.

As you know I do have beautiful workshops to work in and teach from, but making your bench presents several challenges not the least of which are planing, sawing and jointing the various components and then assembling the units as you develop the bench. That being the case, I am working in my own back yard (American for lawned garden) for the development of the whole bench. This is going to take a few days because of my commitments but it will be worth it. In my earlier blog you saw me picking the wood from the racks. Again, it is unreal to think that you have access to a sawmill and machines to mill your own.



You must work milling sizes out for yourself. I know in B&Q and Home Depot or Lowes, you can find wood that is around the sizes I am using and so you must sort through that for yourself. If you have machines, all the better. And remember, no matter what anyone tells you, a machine is NOT a tool, it's a machine. A tool is powered and directed by you and responds to your senses. All machines were developed for mass manufacturing so no matter which editor or author tells you differently, a machine is a machine.

The thickness of your bench top needs to be about 75mm. That's 3" in imperial. I would say that the bench top needs to be a minimum of 63mm or 2 ½" thick if you have stock already or that's a size you can find. Now in the US, Home Depot stocks a spruce type (they call it white wood, which is not a species at all) stud that is about 1 ½" x 2 ½" and this will work. It would be better to use regular 2×4 and rip to 3" if you can. These are a dead 1/12" thick, which works great.

Choice of stud



There are a variety pine-type choices. I have used Douglas fir and that worked fine, I have also used Southern Yellow Pine, which also works well but can be a little soft. Hemlock works well but is more difficult to hand plane and then there is Spruce, which I favour the most along with European redwood which is a true pine that is harder than most North American pines. This is my absolute favourite for weight, strength, colour and consistency as well as for working with hand tools. For my bench I used spruce and was able to find lengths that were fairly consistent in grain, straight and minimally knotted. Southern Yellow Pine is fine straight from the bundle but you must work with it quickly as it does distort unless laminated. It's greatest advantage is that t planes so well with hand tools. Look for minimum amount of knots. hey tend to be big and this species of pine grows rapidly and can have soft aspects in the spring and summer growth which also makes it soft.



The boys and I set up a pair of sawhorses in the garden because we don't have a picnic table. You could use a workmate or other collapsible temporary work station or a couple of garden benches. This is the challenge for you to work through.

We used a laburnum tree to push against and I think it took the three of us about an hour to surface plane the large flat faces ready for gluing up the laminated tops. This was fun even though rainclouds hovered overhead the whole time.

When all of the pieces were planed, I placed them on edge in position and squeezed them with arm and hand pressure to make sure the surfaces came easily together. It is not necessary to plane the wood dead straight or straight at all.



Choose wood that's straight to start with and look for warpage or twist ahead of time. Choose the best you can get. The act of planing is purely to smooth the wood and remove machine ,arks from planers and saws that might hold the surfaces apart and prevent good glue surfaces.

My bench is about 8'0" long, so I used 8' stock. That means that after glue up and completion, my top may end up 7'10" long. You must think of the bench size that fits your situation. I often work from a 5' long bench and find it most comfortable.

My bench has two laminated sections, on each long length, which allows for a well in the middle. The well hold tools during construction and nothing slips to the floor that way. The 12" laminated bench tops are more than adequate for all work and any wider will span to the other side.

So here we are, we have planed the meeting surfaces using only a smoothing plane. Forget heavyweights, a plain Stanley #4 or 4 ½ will do better than any other. You don't need a longer plane, that's unnecessary and will slow down the process though I can concede a #5 or 5 ½ if you insist. Also, you don't need any retrofit irons with extra thickness, they take twice as much effort to sharpen, take twice as long and wastes twice as much steel for half the results of a regular thickness iron.



Set up your clamps and rehearse your glue up using the clamps. This will ensure you have the clamps set, the right number of clamps and that you have a procedure to follow that you feel comfortable with. It means that you have a strategy and a plan and that it works well. Once the glue goes on you have reached the point of no return and you must move efficiently and decisively.

Flush up the ends incase you want the fullest length possible.



I use a single clamp in the centre to start as I want to make certain there is no unevenness before I add glue. It is extremely hard to plane glued surfaces and far better to test beforehand.



I have rigged up a table with saw horses and a couple of boards. I place my underside clamps first and preset the clamps so that my wood will just slot straight in during glue up. Pre setting the clamps saves awkwardness and time. It should be come a habit. Also, though we call this a dry fit or dry run, it is really a rehearsal and helps look ahead for snags.



I zigzag my glue so that the glue is even. When I rub the joining faces the glue spreads evenly across both and I have minimal squeeze out and wastage.



Notice my clamps alternate between top and bottom or underside of the laminations. This ensures even pressure across the width of each laminated piece and thereby even squeeze out of excess glue. You will need a minimum of 11 clamps but perhaps if you don't have enough you can borrow them. Even pressure along the whole length is important.

Wipe off any excess glue with the shavings. This will help the glue to dry and prevent hard glue on the surface before you plane. This can damage the cutting iron. Set the tops aside for 24 hours for the glue to completely set up and dry.

We had a great day!!!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


great blog serie Poul 
I understand why we shouldn´t go under 63 mm thickness
but why buy a 2×4 (50 X 100mm) and resaw it to 75 mm
instead of just ceeping it as a 50×100 or even a thicker like 50×150mm 
witch would help alot to prevent the bench from sliding around when using a plane

Dennis


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## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Paul thanks so much for providing us with this blog series and videos. I have learned so much in your DVD course and just recieved some Rockler clamps! Also cannot stop raving about the Diamond stones, Vaughan mallet and the lessons on saw sharpening. All of the tools and techniques you have provided have really increased my personal work. This workbench is next on my list. The setting on your video here is terrific as well, what a great view.

All the best and thanks for your time,

Joe


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. As usuall I always walk away with something to think about after I dive into one of your lessons.


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## Infernal2 (May 20, 2012)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Paul,

This is a great little video and timely as I'm setting up to build my first "real" workbench. I built another one earlier this year but it was a tiny thing for temporary use and I can see how your simple and straightforward approach can be a real benefit.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


DennisGrosen,

There are things that us, metric people, will never understand.
In Europe you expect quantities to be as advertised; apparently not everywhere…

If you look here, 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber
you will see that, what is advertised as 2X4, is in fact only 1"1/2 X 3"1/2 (38mmX89mm) which after (re)planing gives you the final dimension given by Paul Sellers.

It seems 2X4 would refers to the section in the green log before sawing the board out of the log and (rough) planing it, so you pay for the sawdust left at the lumberyard and the shrinkage due to drying.

Now you have to read again all the post you have read on LJ from the beginning because things were not what you thought they were…. ;-))


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


No better proof for jumping into a bench build! So 'can do,' I love it. Thanks for posting, Paul!


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## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this Mr. Sellers. A workbench is one tool I've needed to build for quite a while. I don't have room in my shop for one so long but I would imagine that the construction principles are the same no matter how long the bench is. I look forward to learning from your experience.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Sylvian 
now I start to be a little confused but only a little bit since what we used to call a 2×4 
was ruoghly 50×100 mm dry and planed at the lumberstore 
now its about 45×96 mm dry and planed though they still call it 50×100 
and to make it more confusing our inch is a bit longer than the English inch 
so instead of around 79 inch on a twometer ruler it only takes around 76 danish inches to get that 

Dennis


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Dennis,
I would have thought that, Demnark being in EU, the metric system would have been used in the lumberstore.

Here is an example of a Belgian lumberyard :
the dimension are in mm :
http://www.bois-paulandre.be/fr/bois-de-construction

although you can find in the list 
SLS 38X89 
which corresponds to the US planed 2X4 including the rounded corners !

("raboté" means "planed")


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## theSawdustSurfer (Jan 17, 2012)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


thanx for a great blog , looking forward to the next part


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Sylvian 
when I get my shop up and go for real 
I´ll buy lumber rough if I can and then resaw / mill it myself 
though there is years to when that can happen since I don´t have space 
for a lumbershelf unit :-(

Dennis


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PaulSellers said:


> *Laminating the top (with video)*
> 
> *Making the Workbench with Paul Sellers*
> 
> ...


Paul, where can I find all the videos about this bench?
Thanks and cheers.


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