# Workshop Development



## dbhost

*Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*

This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!

In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…

In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.

Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.

Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.

And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…

Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…

After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…

Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.

So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…

Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


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## Dennisgrosen

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


thank god you got an understanding wife you lucky man
I will look forward to read the rest of the story
it sounds interressting

Dennis


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## PawPawTex

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


I too look forward to the rest of your tale. Some pics of the process would be great too. I also have had a wonderfully understanding wife these past 33 years. It's a fair trade she says as she gets most anything she wants built for her. Good luck with your shop and please don't keep us waiting too long between installments! LOL


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


Unfortunately no pics of the nearly bare garage, but pics are forthcoming for the next installment, where I started the shop buildup…


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## wstokes

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


Where's the subscribe link?  J/k, looking forward to the next installment.


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


Hmmmmmmmmm…......even more like me…..but you have upped the ante. How am I going to keep up?

Fine fix, and from a buddy at that.

So yup, I am hooked. Looking forward to the next entry….......let's see…... great topic…....we all have shops…........

.......you set the anticipation…......perhaps there should be even more tension….....then perhaps you could get sponsors….....(-:

We are in a B&B between Holland and Kalamazoo Michigan. Looking at the weather we think we will head south, maybe take a ferry across Lake Michigan to Wisconsin, if that is possible, probably not. Weather wise…......warmer in Anchorage, Alaska (home, for the benefit of those that don't know me) than here. Oh well, we really like free form traveling, and that's what we are doing.

Jim


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## 8iowa

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


Congratualations on your new life turnaround.

For guys with cramped garages and a need for space to be multi-purpose I recommend that you look for a used Shopsmith 510 or 520 on Craigs List or eBay. About 40% of Shopsmith owners work in 100 to 200 sq. ft. spaces - can even roll it out in the driveway on nice days.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


8iowa, I had considered a Shop Smith, but capacity of the tools themselves are problematic. I know a few guys with these working out of 10×12 sheds and they have plenty of room to move!


----------



## NedB

dbhost said:


> *Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!*
> 
> This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!
> 
> In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…
> 
> In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2×4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.
> 
> Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.
> 
> Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.
> 
> And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…
> 
> Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…
> 
> After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…
> 
> Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.
> 
> So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…
> 
> Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…


\_/ munching on popcorn waiting…


----------



## dbhost

*Why the garage anyway?*

In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…

That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?

I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.

Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…










It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.


















So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…

My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…

To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….

There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!


----------



## Rob200

dbhost said:


> *Why the garage anyway?*
> 
> In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…
> 
> That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?
> 
> I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.
> 
> Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…
> 
> My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…
> 
> To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….
> 
> There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!


so far this soun;s like the way my shop went


----------



## Gregn

dbhost said:


> *Why the garage anyway?*
> 
> In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…
> 
> That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?
> 
> I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.
> 
> Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…
> 
> My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…
> 
> To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….
> 
> There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!


Funny how things can grow on ya! After having 2 full blown woodworking shops, of which both were garages. I have finally went to a 12×30 shed myself here at home. Like yourself money is tight and the wife is supportive. Once she gets use to all the beautiful things you make, don't be surprised how much more she will want you in the shop. I also feel your pain on the fence. Mine was hit by 88 mph straight winds, oh the joy of a wooden fence. LOL Look forward to hearing and seeing more.


----------



## heavyelectrician

dbhost said:


> *Why the garage anyway?*
> 
> In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…
> 
> That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?
> 
> I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.
> 
> Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…
> 
> My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…
> 
> To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….
> 
> There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!


Well look at it like this. You have a garage and an attic. I have neither and the wife is always on me because i have stuff stored all over. Luckily she too is very supportive. But i do have a 12×16 shop. Which has a contractors table saw and an old craftsman radial arm saw , a work bench and out feed table. The outfeed table i still havn't finished yet. And yes it is tight, especially when i need to use sheet stock. So far i get new tools by promising the new projects to the wife. I have alot of projects to do now. Glad to know i'm not the only one.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Why the garage anyway?*
> 
> In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…
> 
> That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?
> 
> I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.
> 
> Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…
> 
> My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…
> 
> To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….
> 
> There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!


My space appears to be permanently limited in size and fixed in location. It will need a lot of efficient design to keep it comfortable if I get new larger tools. So that is my task. Opimize space, by remodeling and replacing old storage solutions.

The garage is my only solution for the foreseeable future. So you are not alone. However, I do have room for the cars as well as the shop. That is not so common.


----------



## Eagle1

dbhost said:


> *Why the garage anyway?*
> 
> In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…
> 
> That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?
> 
> I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.
> 
> Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…
> 
> My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…
> 
> To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….
> 
> There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!


Mine stated out about the same way. But about 1 year later alot more tools. And alot of $. The good thing it keeps me away from my computer the biggest part of the day.


----------



## dbhost

*Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*

In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)

About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.

So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming… 

















But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.

Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


----------



## woodpeckerbill

dbhost said:


> *Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*
> 
> In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)
> 
> About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.
> 
> So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.
> 
> Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


Really enjoying this blog series. 
Bill


----------



## PurpLev

dbhost said:


> *Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*
> 
> In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)
> 
> About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.
> 
> So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.
> 
> Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


looks like a nice setup. definitely will give you better dust control and easier to manage.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*
> 
> In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)
> 
> About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.
> 
> So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.
> 
> Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


The evolution continues…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*
> 
> In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)
> 
> About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.
> 
> So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.
> 
> Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


Still need to build the Thien. For me, that should be an easy project. Gonna decide what size container my Delta DC will hold on its stand, and then buy a bucket to fit and make it accordingly. It should hold a quite large bucket.

Until last summer, my shop had changed very slowly over about 20 years. Now it is changing at a more rapid clip. Got some shop projects to finish when I get home, nothing pressing.

In southwest Michigan, crappy weather, but enjoying ourselves. Sitting in a small condo, part of a B&B, so we have a kitchen and laundry facilities. Been buying books for my Kindle as I go through them. Amazon really has that ebook selling business down to a science. Just like always, I wait for the price to drop, and read last year's hot items. It also allows me to read a number of reviews. Actually, I am also reading some older books that are real cheap.

Later….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*
> 
> In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)
> 
> About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.
> 
> So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.
> 
> Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


I actually need to drop my baffle down 1", which is easy enough. I built mine with threaded rod and have plenty of adjustment left…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...*
> 
> In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)
> 
> About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.
> 
> So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.
> 
> Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…


I'll quiz you when I build mine, I like the idea of having things adjustable…..............


----------



## dbhost

*Permanent floor model equipment moves in, dust collection becomes a higher priority.*

When we last left off, I had built, what I like to refer to as workshop 1.0. It was up, it was effective, but it wasn't feature rich and lacked the capacity I wanted. The little Ryobi BTS21 was a good saw for what it was, but it wasn't what I wanted, I was wanting to start cutting raised panels and the little 1/4" shank Ryobi router wasn't going to cut it either… I had a lot going on, but lacked a lot as well… Thing were about to change, FAST…

When I put the bench top tools on universal stands and mobile bases, I discovered the extreme limits of the Vermont American drill press jig and got to looking for an honest to goodness real drill press. I had decided on the Ryobi 12" drill press with laser guide. I was literally putting my shoes on to go to Home Depot when on a whim I decided to check Craigslist… I came across a Northern Industrial 16 speed 15 inch floor model 3/4 HP drill press needing some cleaning, and some cosmetic repair (the belt housing was smashed, and it needed paint) listed for $75.00. I called, got to looking at it, tested it out and determined that yes, I could fix this quickly, and easily…. So $75.00 later I had a floor model DP. Some penetrating oil, nylon scrubbers, etc… and some Krylon later, well it doesn't look brand spanking new, but it works that well. The 3-1/8" throw isn't the best, but it is FAR better than the Ryobi. Shortly afterwards I bought a second hand Grizzly DP table from a fellow member of BT3Central.com. The Grizz table didn't hold up to my coastal workshop humidity, but it did serve as an excellent template for a shop made table. And it gave up its hardware for a good cause.










As a late Christmas present to myself for Christmas 2008, in early January 2009 I took a trip to visit another BT3Central member that had bought a big iron saw, and was selling his trusty BT3100. I got a smokin' deal on the saw, and a LARGE collection of accessories and upgrades. But this saw presented some problems for me dust collection wise… My BTS21 had pretty good dust collection, but it did NOT have any sort of zero clearance insert, and any dust that got missed by the blade shround simply dropped to the floor. The BT3100 had 3 fittings, the factory 2.5", a 4" belly pan port to catch the stuff that was falling to the floor, and a 2" port on the shark guard up top. The shop vac system would work great on EITHER the blade shroud, OR the Shark Guard, but certainly not on both, nor would it work all that well on the belly pan. A true dust collector was in order… Harbor Freight to the rescue again!










But let's back up a bit, I am getting ahead of myself… One of the things the BT brought to the table was the ability to table mount a wider selection of routers, with a better selection of bits than would fit through the top of the old Wolfcraft table. After reading up on what everyone is using and why, then looking at my budget it came down to a choice of 3 routers. The Freud 2-1/4 HP (model since forgotten, but it is the one that was being clearanced last Dec - Jan for $99.00), The Hitachi KM12VC, and the Ridgid R2930. The Porter Cables and all looked nice, but were typically priced above my affordability point… I watched prices go up and down, and pounced on a KM12VC for $122.00 thinking I got a deal… I also snagged the MLCS 66 pc 1/2" shank bit set on sale. Not long after getting my first KM12VC, I decided I really wanted a motor, and fixed base dedicated to my router table, and I wanted to go with the M12VC (KM12VC without the plunger base). But that model was never priced all that well. I mean Reconditioned Sales lists them for a good price, but NEVER has them in stock (I have been watching them for nearly a year and a half now, they have NEVER had them available in the entire time I have been watching this item…). I got lucky with Amazon and struck on a second KM12VC for $99.00! So I had my routers, I had most of my bits, including the stuff I had previously picked up, such as a Skil 30pc set 1/4" shank that was a scratch and dent from Lowes. Bad box, good bits, cheap… And a few molding profiles and panel raising bits from MLCS… I was getting fancier and fancier with my work all the time…

Another feature of the BT3100 is the included router accessory table, and fence brackets. Now the Ryobi fence leaves a LOT to be desired, and so soon after setting it up I built a set of fence faces out of MDF, hardboard, and Rockler T track… I am VERY happy with how these work… So in went the BT, and out went the shop built cart, the Ryobi router, and the Wolfcraft table. (No worries, those, and the BTS21 went to a good friend of mine from college…)










Now back to the dust collection subject. My Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system was starting to have some trouble. The way I had ducted it had too many bends, and long shavings out of the planer would jam it up QUICKLY… I never really liked how I was set up, so I started moving things around, combined with the fact that the BT3100, and band saw were now taking up shop space, I started moving things around, and added, with the sale price and coupon of course, a Harbor Freight 2HP DC, with the Wynn filter of course. I initially went with a Thien baffle in the inlet ring of my DC, but decided I didn't like the sound of more solid chunks of wood hitting the impeller, and I wanted to get out of changing the lower bag out quite so often, so I built a pre separator based on a plastic 55 gallon drum. Yes it is big, but shavings and sawdust are nice light and fluffy, even with my bad back, it's no big deal to empty it out. Unless I am working with walnut, I simply up end the thing into my flower boxes. Free mulch! (Which reminds me, I need to redo the mulching on my blueberry bushes!). Now due to the fact that there is still fencing material on the side of the shop I want everything in, my permantent plumbing is just sitting there, waiting to go, including the Lee Valley blast gates, and the pipes. For now, I am simply using a single hose going from machine to machine. The table saw, being a special case, has a single 4" hose that goes to a 4×4x2.5" Wye fitting, that pulls from the blade shroud and belly pan. The shop vac setup pulls from the shark guard. It takes a lot of juice to pull all of that, but it is working pretty well so far! Dust collection using this setup is pretty amazing…










For an air cleaner, I have cobbled together a box fan that has been pretty beaten up and was heading to the trash, found as fine a filtration filter as I could and duct taped it to the back side so that air HAS to go through to get pulled through by the fan blades… So far it has worked fairly well, but is SERIOUSLY ugly… Sorry for the lousy Cell Phone Camera pic…










In the pic above, you can see the Y fitting going to a 4" belly pan and 2.5" blade shroud. I simply move the hose from 4" connection to 4" connection. So far it has worked well enough for me…

I always loved turning when in High School wood shop, and have been fascinated every time I saw Norm Abram turning for a project. I knew I needed a lathe, and with lathes you need, well there is a hole with no bottom… But I guess I should leave you guys with your appetites whetted for my next installment right?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Permanent floor model equipment moves in, dust collection becomes a higher priority.*
> 
> When we last left off, I had built, what I like to refer to as workshop 1.0. It was up, it was effective, but it wasn't feature rich and lacked the capacity I wanted. The little Ryobi BTS21 was a good saw for what it was, but it wasn't what I wanted, I was wanting to start cutting raised panels and the little 1/4" shank Ryobi router wasn't going to cut it either… I had a lot going on, but lacked a lot as well… Thing were about to change, FAST…
> 
> When I put the bench top tools on universal stands and mobile bases, I discovered the extreme limits of the Vermont American drill press jig and got to looking for an honest to goodness real drill press. I had decided on the Ryobi 12" drill press with laser guide. I was literally putting my shoes on to go to Home Depot when on a whim I decided to check Craigslist… I came across a Northern Industrial 16 speed 15 inch floor model 3/4 HP drill press needing some cleaning, and some cosmetic repair (the belt housing was smashed, and it needed paint) listed for $75.00. I called, got to looking at it, tested it out and determined that yes, I could fix this quickly, and easily…. So $75.00 later I had a floor model DP. Some penetrating oil, nylon scrubbers, etc… and some Krylon later, well it doesn't look brand spanking new, but it works that well. The 3-1/8" throw isn't the best, but it is FAR better than the Ryobi. Shortly afterwards I bought a second hand Grizzly DP table from a fellow member of BT3Central.com. The Grizz table didn't hold up to my coastal workshop humidity, but it did serve as an excellent template for a shop made table. And it gave up its hardware for a good cause.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a late Christmas present to myself for Christmas 2008, in early January 2009 I took a trip to visit another BT3Central member that had bought a big iron saw, and was selling his trusty BT3100. I got a smokin' deal on the saw, and a LARGE collection of accessories and upgrades. But this saw presented some problems for me dust collection wise… My BTS21 had pretty good dust collection, but it did NOT have any sort of zero clearance insert, and any dust that got missed by the blade shround simply dropped to the floor. The BT3100 had 3 fittings, the factory 2.5", a 4" belly pan port to catch the stuff that was falling to the floor, and a 2" port on the shark guard up top. The shop vac system would work great on EITHER the blade shroud, OR the Shark Guard, but certainly not on both, nor would it work all that well on the belly pan. A true dust collector was in order… Harbor Freight to the rescue again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But let's back up a bit, I am getting ahead of myself… One of the things the BT brought to the table was the ability to table mount a wider selection of routers, with a better selection of bits than would fit through the top of the old Wolfcraft table. After reading up on what everyone is using and why, then looking at my budget it came down to a choice of 3 routers. The Freud 2-1/4 HP (model since forgotten, but it is the one that was being clearanced last Dec - Jan for $99.00), The Hitachi KM12VC, and the Ridgid R2930. The Porter Cables and all looked nice, but were typically priced above my affordability point… I watched prices go up and down, and pounced on a KM12VC for $122.00 thinking I got a deal… I also snagged the MLCS 66 pc 1/2" shank bit set on sale. Not long after getting my first KM12VC, I decided I really wanted a motor, and fixed base dedicated to my router table, and I wanted to go with the M12VC (KM12VC without the plunger base). But that model was never priced all that well. I mean Reconditioned Sales lists them for a good price, but NEVER has them in stock (I have been watching them for nearly a year and a half now, they have NEVER had them available in the entire time I have been watching this item…). I got lucky with Amazon and struck on a second KM12VC for $99.00! So I had my routers, I had most of my bits, including the stuff I had previously picked up, such as a Skil 30pc set 1/4" shank that was a scratch and dent from Lowes. Bad box, good bits, cheap… And a few molding profiles and panel raising bits from MLCS… I was getting fancier and fancier with my work all the time…
> 
> Another feature of the BT3100 is the included router accessory table, and fence brackets. Now the Ryobi fence leaves a LOT to be desired, and so soon after setting it up I built a set of fence faces out of MDF, hardboard, and Rockler T track… I am VERY happy with how these work… So in went the BT, and out went the shop built cart, the Ryobi router, and the Wolfcraft table. (No worries, those, and the BTS21 went to a good friend of mine from college…)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the dust collection subject. My Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system was starting to have some trouble. The way I had ducted it had too many bends, and long shavings out of the planer would jam it up QUICKLY… I never really liked how I was set up, so I started moving things around, combined with the fact that the BT3100, and band saw were now taking up shop space, I started moving things around, and added, with the sale price and coupon of course, a Harbor Freight 2HP DC, with the Wynn filter of course. I initially went with a Thien baffle in the inlet ring of my DC, but decided I didn't like the sound of more solid chunks of wood hitting the impeller, and I wanted to get out of changing the lower bag out quite so often, so I built a pre separator based on a plastic 55 gallon drum. Yes it is big, but shavings and sawdust are nice light and fluffy, even with my bad back, it's no big deal to empty it out. Unless I am working with walnut, I simply up end the thing into my flower boxes. Free mulch! (Which reminds me, I need to redo the mulching on my blueberry bushes!). Now due to the fact that there is still fencing material on the side of the shop I want everything in, my permantent plumbing is just sitting there, waiting to go, including the Lee Valley blast gates, and the pipes. For now, I am simply using a single hose going from machine to machine. The table saw, being a special case, has a single 4" hose that goes to a 4×4x2.5" Wye fitting, that pulls from the blade shroud and belly pan. The shop vac setup pulls from the shark guard. It takes a lot of juice to pull all of that, but it is working pretty well so far! Dust collection using this setup is pretty amazing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For an air cleaner, I have cobbled together a box fan that has been pretty beaten up and was heading to the trash, found as fine a filtration filter as I could and duct taped it to the back side so that air HAS to go through to get pulled through by the fan blades… So far it has worked fairly well, but is SERIOUSLY ugly… Sorry for the lousy Cell Phone Camera pic…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the pic above, you can see the Y fitting going to a 4" belly pan and 2.5" blade shroud. I simply move the hose from 4" connection to 4" connection. So far it has worked well enough for me…
> 
> I always loved turning when in High School wood shop, and have been fascinated every time I saw Norm Abram turning for a project. I knew I needed a lathe, and with lathes you need, well there is a hole with no bottom… But I guess I should leave you guys with your appetites whetted for my next installment right?


As I have said before, I don't have the time and energy to find used stuff. That, and the limited market here in Alaska makes it difficult. If a used item is not available in Anchorage, then it would be nearly impossible to go look at it. So that leaves me with choices from a town of 250,000. I am sure with patience and luck I could come up with stuff but the trade off would be poor. Energy and time are in short supply here, and energy is more crucial than time.

I am continually amazed at how you have constructed a shop with a relatively small bottom line. This series should be an inspiration to those who cannot see how they would have enough money to put a decent shop. If for no other reason, documenting the development of your shop is important.


----------



## dbhost

*Bringing us up to speed. Almost to where we are today...*

In the last installment I think I had gotten to adding the dust collector etc…

Mind you, I am setting this out a little out of order so I can lump certain projects together. For example the adding of the separate Thien separator on the HF DC happened nearly a year after adding the HF DC… But I wanted to put those two projects together because they are related… Now with that bit of info tucked away, shall we continue?

I know somewhere along the line I forgot to mention clamps, clamps, clamps clamps… You see when I originally started, I had a total of 4 clamps, 2 Jorgenson Pony, and 2 Craftsman, all 36", which were unwieldy on smaller projects, and not nearly enough. I added to that number through Harbor Freight sales, and now have the number up to a dozen each of 6", 12", 24" and 36", plus I have added 4 pipe clamps (need more) nearly 2 dozen spring clamps (need more), and 2 band clamps (Christmas gift, need more), not to mention 2 10" hand screws (need more and bigger).

I mention the clamps, as they required one of my first shop projects to be done. A simple cross bar clamp rack that is mounted to the wall. All of it was scrap from other projects, or the stock from projects that were abandoned… (Got part way through and decided the project was a bad idea sort of thing…). Now the clamp rack is actually too small and I need to re-think how to do this. My goal here clamp wise is to have 2 dozen 6" bar clamps, 2 dozen pipe clamps and various pipes, a dozen of the strap clamps, and at least a half dozen 10" hand screws, and a half dozen 16", added to the collection I already have… I am thinking rolling cart, with hanging pegs for the hand screws, and strap clamps.

Outfeed from the table saw, and a proper woodworking workbench have been sadly lacking from my shop since day one, and the design from Fine Woodworking's Getting Started in Woodworking series seemed simple enough to build… And it was, aside from being able to source pine 4×4s, which with any quality was impossible, so I tried Cedar. This was a mistake to say the least. The bench is WAY too floppy for my use. Long story short, I like the idea of this bench, but the base has GOT to be updated with at least pine. I need the additional mass. I am also disappointed with how flexible the cedar is. I need a more ridgid base… The existing cedar base will be fitted with a top made from cedar 2×4s, and a lower shelf likewise fitted and eonclosed with frame & panel sides, back, and doors, the entire thing coated with BLO, and set in the yard as a potting bench for LOML. Of course after a new SYP frame is built. I figure I will laminate 3 layers thick SYP 2×4s to create the stock for the legs, and use lag bolts instead of those all thread rods and pegs that Fine Woodworking's design used. I am also considering making the entire top from SYP 2x stock to keep it cheap, yet substantial.

Probably the one tool I was most excited about getting was the lathe… I've turned while in high school, and was always fascinated watching wood turning demonstrations in person, and watching Norm do his demos on New Yankee Workshop. I had honestly considered a ShopSmith Mark V in order to get all the big stuff all at once, but decided the capacity offered by individual machines, and the arbor tilting / raising and lowering instead of the saw table made for safer, more effective working conditions for me. So no ShopSmith… What I did do was watch Craigslist and kept missing deals on Jet JWL1236's and its countless clones. I finally hit the timing right with a Harbor Freight coupon and sale on the widely well regarded #34706 Jet clone machine. When I first set it up I had a HUGE amount of pucker factor though. The center points of the spur drive and live center just wouldn't line up for anything. HF customer service wanted me to bring the machine back to swap out, I did a little more digging through the manual, and found where the adjustments for the headstock were (it was aligning the headstock from its rotated position was the problem) and got it dialed in. Now this lathe is a cast iron bed lathe, and weighs about 185lbs, so it is much heavier than midi lathes, but it is FAR llighter than the lathes with cast iron legs. To solve the problem of the lathe dancing around when starting with an out of balance blank, I have set up a shelf on the spreaders of the stand, and set a couple of bags of cement there. I have also drilled holes / cut slots in that shelf for the accessories that came with the lathe…

Well along with the lathe, and everything else came lots and lots of little accessories, chisels, gouges, calipers, hand planes, chisels, etc… I needed storage, and I needed it bad… My first storage solution is a simple 1×2 furring strip framed sheet of peg board holding most of my small hangable tools. Next up came shelving using simple cheap closet shelf brackets, and 3/4" sheathing grade plywood. This farily simple shelf provided me a place to keep my safety and health related items. Ear muffs, safety glasses, respirator, face shield, push blocks, push sticks, and of course the box of disposable shop rags. I used simple broom clips attached to the side to keep my pipe clamps off the floor as well…

Next in line was easily accessible storage for my handheld power tools, just past the first shelf, is a second, longer unit, 6' long to be specific, that houses all of my handheld power tools excluding my Hitachi Routers. (Those will eventually go there after some house cleaning takes place). You see my handheld power tool collection had grown quite a bit and was taking up a LOT of space I didn't have down low. I went to having 2 power drills (a clutch chuck, and a simple keyless chuck model), a biscuit joiner, 4 different hand held sanders, a buffer, a circ saw, a recip saw, a jig saw, a B&D router (bad descision, this thing needs to hit the trash), a B&D rotary tool, and Dremel accessory kit etc…

Below that shelf, I placed my Stack On small parts bins, which went from 1 to 3. I hung my router bit boxes, and made sure I put a garage / shop rated fire extinguisher within easy reach. I also added some ladder hooks, and am holding my folding / telescoping sawhorses on them…

Above my head, I don't think we addresses the issue of light. When I first started, Like I said, I had a single bare bulb fixture, and a garage door opener with a single bulb. Now the garage door opener was dead, and I was not planning on using this space as a garage anyway, so out it went, and the single bulb just wasn't cutting it. I added 2 2 bulb 4 foot shop light fixtures over the original workbench, which worked, more or less, for a LONG time… Just not well. In the last year I have extended the original lighting circuit, to 2 more ceiling outlets (there was originally the one for the garage door opener). I added 4 more shop light fixtures for a total of 6. They are arranged so that they are 4' in from each wall, and the center row is at the middle of the garage, arranged in 2 columns of 3 rows. I also have added a Rockler magnetic base adjustable neck task lamp with a 100w equivalent CFL that I magnet to the tool I want extra task light for, most recently it was plopped on the band saw…

You know, an uninsulated garage workshop, with south facing doors in Texas is a real roaster in summer, and a meat locker in winter… Guess I should do something about that huh? Guess that will wait until my next installment!


----------



## wichle

dbhost said:


> *Bringing us up to speed. Almost to where we are today...*
> 
> In the last installment I think I had gotten to adding the dust collector etc…
> 
> Mind you, I am setting this out a little out of order so I can lump certain projects together. For example the adding of the separate Thien separator on the HF DC happened nearly a year after adding the HF DC… But I wanted to put those two projects together because they are related… Now with that bit of info tucked away, shall we continue?
> 
> I know somewhere along the line I forgot to mention clamps, clamps, clamps clamps… You see when I originally started, I had a total of 4 clamps, 2 Jorgenson Pony, and 2 Craftsman, all 36", which were unwieldy on smaller projects, and not nearly enough. I added to that number through Harbor Freight sales, and now have the number up to a dozen each of 6", 12", 24" and 36", plus I have added 4 pipe clamps (need more) nearly 2 dozen spring clamps (need more), and 2 band clamps (Christmas gift, need more), not to mention 2 10" hand screws (need more and bigger).
> 
> I mention the clamps, as they required one of my first shop projects to be done. A simple cross bar clamp rack that is mounted to the wall. All of it was scrap from other projects, or the stock from projects that were abandoned… (Got part way through and decided the project was a bad idea sort of thing…). Now the clamp rack is actually too small and I need to re-think how to do this. My goal here clamp wise is to have 2 dozen 6" bar clamps, 2 dozen pipe clamps and various pipes, a dozen of the strap clamps, and at least a half dozen 10" hand screws, and a half dozen 16", added to the collection I already have… I am thinking rolling cart, with hanging pegs for the hand screws, and strap clamps.
> 
> Outfeed from the table saw, and a proper woodworking workbench have been sadly lacking from my shop since day one, and the design from Fine Woodworking's Getting Started in Woodworking series seemed simple enough to build… And it was, aside from being able to source pine 4×4s, which with any quality was impossible, so I tried Cedar. This was a mistake to say the least. The bench is WAY too floppy for my use. Long story short, I like the idea of this bench, but the base has GOT to be updated with at least pine. I need the additional mass. I am also disappointed with how flexible the cedar is. I need a more ridgid base… The existing cedar base will be fitted with a top made from cedar 2×4s, and a lower shelf likewise fitted and eonclosed with frame & panel sides, back, and doors, the entire thing coated with BLO, and set in the yard as a potting bench for LOML. Of course after a new SYP frame is built. I figure I will laminate 3 layers thick SYP 2×4s to create the stock for the legs, and use lag bolts instead of those all thread rods and pegs that Fine Woodworking's design used. I am also considering making the entire top from SYP 2x stock to keep it cheap, yet substantial.
> 
> Probably the one tool I was most excited about getting was the lathe… I've turned while in high school, and was always fascinated watching wood turning demonstrations in person, and watching Norm do his demos on New Yankee Workshop. I had honestly considered a ShopSmith Mark V in order to get all the big stuff all at once, but decided the capacity offered by individual machines, and the arbor tilting / raising and lowering instead of the saw table made for safer, more effective working conditions for me. So no ShopSmith… What I did do was watch Craigslist and kept missing deals on Jet JWL1236's and its countless clones. I finally hit the timing right with a Harbor Freight coupon and sale on the widely well regarded #34706 Jet clone machine. When I first set it up I had a HUGE amount of pucker factor though. The center points of the spur drive and live center just wouldn't line up for anything. HF customer service wanted me to bring the machine back to swap out, I did a little more digging through the manual, and found where the adjustments for the headstock were (it was aligning the headstock from its rotated position was the problem) and got it dialed in. Now this lathe is a cast iron bed lathe, and weighs about 185lbs, so it is much heavier than midi lathes, but it is FAR llighter than the lathes with cast iron legs. To solve the problem of the lathe dancing around when starting with an out of balance blank, I have set up a shelf on the spreaders of the stand, and set a couple of bags of cement there. I have also drilled holes / cut slots in that shelf for the accessories that came with the lathe…
> 
> Well along with the lathe, and everything else came lots and lots of little accessories, chisels, gouges, calipers, hand planes, chisels, etc… I needed storage, and I needed it bad… My first storage solution is a simple 1×2 furring strip framed sheet of peg board holding most of my small hangable tools. Next up came shelving using simple cheap closet shelf brackets, and 3/4" sheathing grade plywood. This farily simple shelf provided me a place to keep my safety and health related items. Ear muffs, safety glasses, respirator, face shield, push blocks, push sticks, and of course the box of disposable shop rags. I used simple broom clips attached to the side to keep my pipe clamps off the floor as well…
> 
> Next in line was easily accessible storage for my handheld power tools, just past the first shelf, is a second, longer unit, 6' long to be specific, that houses all of my handheld power tools excluding my Hitachi Routers. (Those will eventually go there after some house cleaning takes place). You see my handheld power tool collection had grown quite a bit and was taking up a LOT of space I didn't have down low. I went to having 2 power drills (a clutch chuck, and a simple keyless chuck model), a biscuit joiner, 4 different hand held sanders, a buffer, a circ saw, a recip saw, a jig saw, a B&D router (bad descision, this thing needs to hit the trash), a B&D rotary tool, and Dremel accessory kit etc…
> 
> Below that shelf, I placed my Stack On small parts bins, which went from 1 to 3. I hung my router bit boxes, and made sure I put a garage / shop rated fire extinguisher within easy reach. I also added some ladder hooks, and am holding my folding / telescoping sawhorses on them…
> 
> Above my head, I don't think we addresses the issue of light. When I first started, Like I said, I had a single bare bulb fixture, and a garage door opener with a single bulb. Now the garage door opener was dead, and I was not planning on using this space as a garage anyway, so out it went, and the single bulb just wasn't cutting it. I added 2 2 bulb 4 foot shop light fixtures over the original workbench, which worked, more or less, for a LONG time… Just not well. In the last year I have extended the original lighting circuit, to 2 more ceiling outlets (there was originally the one for the garage door opener). I added 4 more shop light fixtures for a total of 6. They are arranged so that they are 4' in from each wall, and the center row is at the middle of the garage, arranged in 2 columns of 3 rows. I also have added a Rockler magnetic base adjustable neck task lamp with a 100w equivalent CFL that I magnet to the tool I want extra task light for, most recently it was plopped on the band saw…
> 
> You know, an uninsulated garage workshop, with south facing doors in Texas is a real roaster in summer, and a meat locker in winter… Guess I should do something about that huh? Guess that will wait until my next installment!


I built a workbench on cedar 4X4s with drawers underneath. The top is a very heavy solid core door found in a surplus materials warehouse for 5 bucks. It's on casters as is everything else in my shop. My outfeed on the table saw is a table top from IKEA. They have adjustable legs that are high enough for such an application. You might click on the signature pic at left. This is a basement shop.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Bringing us up to speed. Almost to where we are today...*
> 
> In the last installment I think I had gotten to adding the dust collector etc…
> 
> Mind you, I am setting this out a little out of order so I can lump certain projects together. For example the adding of the separate Thien separator on the HF DC happened nearly a year after adding the HF DC… But I wanted to put those two projects together because they are related… Now with that bit of info tucked away, shall we continue?
> 
> I know somewhere along the line I forgot to mention clamps, clamps, clamps clamps… You see when I originally started, I had a total of 4 clamps, 2 Jorgenson Pony, and 2 Craftsman, all 36", which were unwieldy on smaller projects, and not nearly enough. I added to that number through Harbor Freight sales, and now have the number up to a dozen each of 6", 12", 24" and 36", plus I have added 4 pipe clamps (need more) nearly 2 dozen spring clamps (need more), and 2 band clamps (Christmas gift, need more), not to mention 2 10" hand screws (need more and bigger).
> 
> I mention the clamps, as they required one of my first shop projects to be done. A simple cross bar clamp rack that is mounted to the wall. All of it was scrap from other projects, or the stock from projects that were abandoned… (Got part way through and decided the project was a bad idea sort of thing…). Now the clamp rack is actually too small and I need to re-think how to do this. My goal here clamp wise is to have 2 dozen 6" bar clamps, 2 dozen pipe clamps and various pipes, a dozen of the strap clamps, and at least a half dozen 10" hand screws, and a half dozen 16", added to the collection I already have… I am thinking rolling cart, with hanging pegs for the hand screws, and strap clamps.
> 
> Outfeed from the table saw, and a proper woodworking workbench have been sadly lacking from my shop since day one, and the design from Fine Woodworking's Getting Started in Woodworking series seemed simple enough to build… And it was, aside from being able to source pine 4×4s, which with any quality was impossible, so I tried Cedar. This was a mistake to say the least. The bench is WAY too floppy for my use. Long story short, I like the idea of this bench, but the base has GOT to be updated with at least pine. I need the additional mass. I am also disappointed with how flexible the cedar is. I need a more ridgid base… The existing cedar base will be fitted with a top made from cedar 2×4s, and a lower shelf likewise fitted and eonclosed with frame & panel sides, back, and doors, the entire thing coated with BLO, and set in the yard as a potting bench for LOML. Of course after a new SYP frame is built. I figure I will laminate 3 layers thick SYP 2×4s to create the stock for the legs, and use lag bolts instead of those all thread rods and pegs that Fine Woodworking's design used. I am also considering making the entire top from SYP 2x stock to keep it cheap, yet substantial.
> 
> Probably the one tool I was most excited about getting was the lathe… I've turned while in high school, and was always fascinated watching wood turning demonstrations in person, and watching Norm do his demos on New Yankee Workshop. I had honestly considered a ShopSmith Mark V in order to get all the big stuff all at once, but decided the capacity offered by individual machines, and the arbor tilting / raising and lowering instead of the saw table made for safer, more effective working conditions for me. So no ShopSmith… What I did do was watch Craigslist and kept missing deals on Jet JWL1236's and its countless clones. I finally hit the timing right with a Harbor Freight coupon and sale on the widely well regarded #34706 Jet clone machine. When I first set it up I had a HUGE amount of pucker factor though. The center points of the spur drive and live center just wouldn't line up for anything. HF customer service wanted me to bring the machine back to swap out, I did a little more digging through the manual, and found where the adjustments for the headstock were (it was aligning the headstock from its rotated position was the problem) and got it dialed in. Now this lathe is a cast iron bed lathe, and weighs about 185lbs, so it is much heavier than midi lathes, but it is FAR llighter than the lathes with cast iron legs. To solve the problem of the lathe dancing around when starting with an out of balance blank, I have set up a shelf on the spreaders of the stand, and set a couple of bags of cement there. I have also drilled holes / cut slots in that shelf for the accessories that came with the lathe…
> 
> Well along with the lathe, and everything else came lots and lots of little accessories, chisels, gouges, calipers, hand planes, chisels, etc… I needed storage, and I needed it bad… My first storage solution is a simple 1×2 furring strip framed sheet of peg board holding most of my small hangable tools. Next up came shelving using simple cheap closet shelf brackets, and 3/4" sheathing grade plywood. This farily simple shelf provided me a place to keep my safety and health related items. Ear muffs, safety glasses, respirator, face shield, push blocks, push sticks, and of course the box of disposable shop rags. I used simple broom clips attached to the side to keep my pipe clamps off the floor as well…
> 
> Next in line was easily accessible storage for my handheld power tools, just past the first shelf, is a second, longer unit, 6' long to be specific, that houses all of my handheld power tools excluding my Hitachi Routers. (Those will eventually go there after some house cleaning takes place). You see my handheld power tool collection had grown quite a bit and was taking up a LOT of space I didn't have down low. I went to having 2 power drills (a clutch chuck, and a simple keyless chuck model), a biscuit joiner, 4 different hand held sanders, a buffer, a circ saw, a recip saw, a jig saw, a B&D router (bad descision, this thing needs to hit the trash), a B&D rotary tool, and Dremel accessory kit etc…
> 
> Below that shelf, I placed my Stack On small parts bins, which went from 1 to 3. I hung my router bit boxes, and made sure I put a garage / shop rated fire extinguisher within easy reach. I also added some ladder hooks, and am holding my folding / telescoping sawhorses on them…
> 
> Above my head, I don't think we addresses the issue of light. When I first started, Like I said, I had a single bare bulb fixture, and a garage door opener with a single bulb. Now the garage door opener was dead, and I was not planning on using this space as a garage anyway, so out it went, and the single bulb just wasn't cutting it. I added 2 2 bulb 4 foot shop light fixtures over the original workbench, which worked, more or less, for a LONG time… Just not well. In the last year I have extended the original lighting circuit, to 2 more ceiling outlets (there was originally the one for the garage door opener). I added 4 more shop light fixtures for a total of 6. They are arranged so that they are 4' in from each wall, and the center row is at the middle of the garage, arranged in 2 columns of 3 rows. I also have added a Rockler magnetic base adjustable neck task lamp with a 100w equivalent CFL that I magnet to the tool I want extra task light for, most recently it was plopped on the band saw…
> 
> You know, an uninsulated garage workshop, with south facing doors in Texas is a real roaster in summer, and a meat locker in winter… Guess I should do something about that huh? Guess that will wait until my next installment!


Remember all those small power tools collectively weigh a lot. I intend to continue using them as ballast for my work bench, but if and when I get a lathe, I might make a cabinet for it and fill it with tools, not necessarily related to the lathe. My work bench without all the tools under it is substantial, but it is not absolutely rigid. With the current makeshift drawers loaded with tools etc, it is nearly immovable, I cannot lift the end of it. Needless to say, it is a solid worksurface.


----------



## dbhost

*Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*

As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?

I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…

My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.

I guess this is more of a question than anything else…

Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


----------



## Gregn

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


I don't see why it wouldn't work. The question I would ask is if the blast gates are automatic gates or manual? If they're manual I would think you would want them closer to the machine so you wouldn't have to bend so far. I myself have considered setting my ducting on the floor against the wall.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


Manuals, Except for the table saw, all of the machines are against the east or south walls. The latest idea is to run the duct along the wall about halfway up, then to the Wye, and directly to blast gate, and a short jumper of flex hose…


----------



## Swede

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


The smaller duct would cut down on the volume I would keep it as large as possible IMHO.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


That's what I am trying to do… From my understanding of the whole science of dust collection, including reading extensively on Bill Pentz' site, it looks like I OUGHT to run 5" all the way, but simply put, my machines won't support it, and I am NOT hacking up my machines for this…

All of the "duct planners" I have seen so far recommend running a larger main trunk line, and a smaller branch line. Of course they want you to run a HUGE cyclone with an 8" trunk and 6" branches. Which is out of the question here. Even if I had the money for such an arrangement, the duct size would be far too intrusive into the shop…

I am however, half tempted to run 5" at least all the way out the table saw branch, so I can split that to a 4" and a 2.5" to catch the Shark Guard as well…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


For what it is worth, without much thought. On my 1.5hp Delta, the air flow throughout the shop is very high just using 4" all the way. I only run one machine at a time, and that is part of the deal.

If you are a commercial worker running very big machines, that work very fast, and generate a whole lot more dust than you are likely to, then maybe every little thing counts. Personally, I would string cheap 4" stuff and see how it works.

Simple no cost experiment, probably reasonably accurate, and you are going to buy a lot of 4" stuff anyway, so make that your first purchase:

Then….............before you do a permanent implacement take a very long 4" run, equivalent to your longest antipated run, before you cut it up, and temporarily hook it up to your most demanding machine and see if it is adequate. Then decide if the bother of a 5 inch main is worth it.

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


I actually already have the 4" stuff (S&D PVC) and it is just laid out on the floor. I was hoping to get more airflow so I could pull from the top of the table saw as well as the bottom without involving the shop vac… Actually I "can" but the solution is kind of flaky. My HF DC has a 5×4x4 Y that one branch goes to the separator and out to the 4" ducting, the other branch is closed off. I can put a 4" to 2.5" reducer there, and run my hose from there. Just need to use a blast gate to shut it off when not in use…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


I split the flow to my drill press, so that I have through the hole in the table from underneath, and also have a flexible hose, 2" ID, that I direct more or less where I want it near the bit from the top. This gives good air flow to both, in fact the above the table port has been known to snatch small pieces of wood from my hand and try to suck them up.

So….....here's how I did it, and I plan to do the same for the TS.

Let's call the device a plenum….....don't know if that is accurate, but just for now for brevity…..........

The plenum is a sealed cube, roughly 6" square in largest dimension for the 4 inch feed, the height or whatever it is depending on the way you set it up, needs to be high enough for the holes for the smaller hoses. I built it from scrap plywood, in my case, a 1/2 inch base and the rest 1/4, and put it together with nails and glue. Basically free, totally customizable, easy to mount any way you want. Perfect for zero bucks.

I press fit the small hoses into proper size holes in the plenum. The large 4 inch flexible hose I connected using a cheapo 4 inch dryer hose extension piece. It fits into a 4 inch hole in the plenum, and the hose fits over the the extension piece. I just leave it press fit, but of course you could make it more permanent.

You could even fit sliding gates to it if you needed to. We is woodworkers, why not make it out of wood. That is a no brainer for us and we always have enough scrap.

For my table saw, I will probably split it into a 2.5 or so above table collection point, and a 2.5 inch connection underneath. Whatever seems to work. Build it to fit for where ever you want to mount it, with mounting tabs, or whatever…......don't have to describe details to you. For those times when you don't use above table collection make a sliding or rotating gate, whatever.

The point is…....make your air splitter out of wood for complete control of all aspects of the issue. For free.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


.........oh, and if it is pertinent, you could make a large plenum out of wood for feeding all kinds of things located close together. If you are worried about it getting blocked or some such, make the top removable with wing nuts or some such. So if you wanted to use a small, say 10 foot section of 5 inch, leading over to an area congested with a bunch of tools, the 5 inch hose would be easy to connect to a hole in a plenum with an octopus of stuff coming out of it. A plenum would be made larger than the hose, presenting little or no resistance to air flow, relatively speaking.

Blast gates should be located close to the tool, especially if operated manually like mine.

Gotta think like a woodworker…....use wood…...(-:


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


...........I know…....options make decisions more difficult…..........(-: ................sorry….......(-:


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


Looking at your drawing, it seems to me that floor mounted stuff creates cleaning issues and fire issues. I mounted my stuff high, ran it around things. Wall mount is OK too. Floor mount…......I'd never do it. Ceiling mount with drops. My system is so small it has some wall mount also. But there are blast gates all over the place, so I can connect vacuum hose, floor sweep, portable tools, etc. 9 blast gates in all. They all have great air flow.

Don't do floor mount…........I think you will regret it, and eventually change it.

Jim


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


.......you are probably really sick of me now…......but….......

Remember a lot of stuff written about DC is for commercial establishments. I saw somewhere the calculations of how much air flow and sawdust generation it would take for a combustible situation, and it is impossible in a small shop with our equipment. And forget about static electricity in our scenario. We don't run our stuff long enough. We are not going to use metal ducts, normally, too costly, and plastic does not conduct electricity so wires are useless.

That was my decision after many hours of research. A non-problem. Like worrying about a explosion when your wife uses a terribly flammable and explosive solvent….......to remove nail polish.

So wood is as good as plastic, so you can make your own junctions and stuff, and make it bigger than the hose, so no friction in relative terms.

Sawdust in the corners, on top of equipment, in piles, etc…...is a fire hazard. But not a hobbyist's collection system, unless he puts red hot metal into his dust bag, or some such.


----------



## a1Jim

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


It will depend on how many machines you use at once


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


One.

Sorry jim,(Alaska not Oregon). I haven't read your volumes yet… Only noticed your mention of the floor mount. The Sketchup is from October last year. I have opted to go mid level, to avoid the 2 extra bends. Not too worried about it being a fire hazard, maybe incorrectly… Just banging bad ideas around in my head…


----------



## wichle

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


I have a relatively small shop. My main dust run is a 4" PVC. It is mounted high on a series of steel posts that support the center of the house. It is run on a 4" electrical cable tray. It is held up with shelf brackets fastened to the vertical pipes with large hose clamps. To change something, I can put a second set of shel brackets lower on the poles and with the wife on one end and me on the other, drop the whole thing to work on it. The only thing on the floor is a 4" to the saw. Everything is on casters so if I move something I can connect an available hose. Sounds complicated but it works.


----------



## Pete_Jud

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


I use 4 inch plastic pipe run at the ceiling, off a 1.5 hp jet. Blast gates on all drops, and a couple of radio remote controls so I don't have to hike to the DC all the time. I use it for one tool at a time, and it even handles my 15 inch Jet planer with out ever clogging. I have hung around 90 running feet of 4 inch pipe around and across the shop, not counting the drops, and never have had a problem. Even added a couple of floor sweeps that the grandson loves to sweep the sawdust into.


----------



## ardbeg

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


Hi, I have just recently upgraded my HF dust collector to make use of the 5" capability. I am very happy with it in this arrangemnt as I have been able to collect a lot more fines off of my table saw and router table. The extra airspeed and volume really seems to make a difference. I do have it stepped down to 4" right at the saw but this doesn't seem to be an issue. If you can do the 5" I would heartily recommend it.

Additionally, are you using a Wynn filter on it or just the bag? (Can't tell from your sketchup). If you aren't that will also give you more airflow and a cleaner shop all for around $125 with shipping.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Looking toward the future. Dust collection...*
> 
> As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?
> 
> I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…
> 
> My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.
> 
> I guess this is more of a question than anything else…
> 
> Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…


I guess you haven't looked at my workshop page… Yes, I am using a Wynn spun bond filter, and a Thien separator. I would have to upsize my separator to 5" as well, but I am not broken hearted about that…

For the sort runs I would end up doing, I am thinking 5" spiral pipe might be managable. I just hope the 4" S&D wasn't a waste of money… Maybe I can drill that stuff and make a French Drain with it…


----------



## dbhost

*Dust collection and air cleaning continued.*

Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.

Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…

This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…

So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…


----------



## a1Jim

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection and air cleaning continued.*
> 
> Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.
> 
> Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…
> 
> This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…
> 
> So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…


It all takes time to get it the way you want it.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection and air cleaning continued.*
> 
> Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.
> 
> Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…
> 
> This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…
> 
> So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…


Yep. And money. Two things that seem to be in short supply these days…


----------



## live4ever

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection and air cleaning continued.*
> 
> Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.
> 
> Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…
> 
> This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…
> 
> So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…


I'd pay handsomely for some more time and money. Just not with time or money…


----------



## Rob200

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection and air cleaning continued.*
> 
> Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.
> 
> Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…
> 
> This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…
> 
> So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…


I have the time and the government take's all my money so they can feed some one in other counter L.O.L.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection and air cleaning continued.*
> 
> Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.
> 
> Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…
> 
> This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…
> 
> So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…


When you look at the table saw, think of the open area the DC is pulling from. If the underside of the saw is tight, it won't drop the pressure much on the top side of the saw which tends to be more open, depending on your guard. I plan to really tighten up the bottom of the saw and make sure the sawdust stays out of the corners. Then only the top is an issue. If you have only one tool sucking at a time, and I think that is the rule with hobbyists, a big DC like you have or even I have will probably do everything very well. But the underside of the saw has to be tight. Then using a 2 inch feed to your guard, you won't have too much problem getting the dust, I bet. I suppose I should now utter a bunch of disclaimers, but you would ding me anyway if it don't work…................(-:

Jim


----------



## dbhost

*The plan moving forward. *

Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…

Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…

Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)

The steps to my plan moving forward are…

#1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.

#2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.

#3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2×4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.

#4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.

#5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…

#6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)

#7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…

#8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.

#9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.

#10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.

#11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.

#12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.

#13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.

#14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…

#15. Finish build of wide drum sander.

#16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…

Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…


----------



## a1Jim

dbhost said:


> *The plan moving forward. *
> 
> Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…
> 
> Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…
> 
> Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)
> 
> The steps to my plan moving forward are…
> 
> #1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.
> 
> #2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.
> 
> #3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2×4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.
> 
> #4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.
> 
> #5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…
> 
> #6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)
> 
> #7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…
> 
> #8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.
> 
> #9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.
> 
> #10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.
> 
> #11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.
> 
> #12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.
> 
> #13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.
> 
> #14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…
> 
> #15. Finish build of wide drum sander.
> 
> #16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…
> 
> Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…


A big check list . It's great to have a plan in place.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The plan moving forward. *
> 
> Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…
> 
> Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…
> 
> Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)
> 
> The steps to my plan moving forward are…
> 
> #1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.
> 
> #2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.
> 
> #3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2×4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.
> 
> #4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.
> 
> #5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…
> 
> #6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)
> 
> #7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…
> 
> #8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.
> 
> #9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.
> 
> #10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.
> 
> #11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.
> 
> #12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.
> 
> #13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.
> 
> #14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…
> 
> #15. Finish build of wide drum sander.
> 
> #16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…
> 
> Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…


It'll probably be a couple of years before it all gets done to boot! Especially adding the shed…

I have the paint, and insulation for the walls already. I need to verify vapor barriers etc… And honestly, the epoxy coating on the floor may not happen. I might end up sliding everything one side of the shop to the other, work on one wall, then move to the other to avoid moving it all out. The shop is going to be biased pretty heavily toward the west wall since I want to, if need be, be able to move the TS out of the east bay and pull the car in…


----------



## woodpeckerbill

dbhost said:


> *The plan moving forward. *
> 
> Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…
> 
> Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…
> 
> Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)
> 
> The steps to my plan moving forward are…
> 
> #1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.
> 
> #2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.
> 
> #3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2×4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.
> 
> #4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.
> 
> #5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…
> 
> #6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)
> 
> #7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…
> 
> #8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.
> 
> #9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.
> 
> #10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.
> 
> #11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.
> 
> #12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.
> 
> #13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.
> 
> #14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…
> 
> #15. Finish build of wide drum sander.
> 
> #16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…
> 
> Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…


Well, at least you have a plan.Good luck. 
Bill


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The plan moving forward. *
> 
> Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…
> 
> Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…
> 
> Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)
> 
> The steps to my plan moving forward are…
> 
> #1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.
> 
> #2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.
> 
> #3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2×4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.
> 
> #4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.
> 
> #5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…
> 
> #6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)
> 
> #7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…
> 
> #8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.
> 
> #9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.
> 
> #10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.
> 
> #11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.
> 
> #12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.
> 
> #13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.
> 
> #14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…
> 
> #15. Finish build of wide drum sander.
> 
> #16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…
> 
> Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…


Thanks. Believe it or not, I really have come a LONG way since I started with just a bare garage and a few hand tools… But my shop growth got out of hand, so I finally drew up a Sketchup plan, and kind of penned down how I wanted to attack this whole thing…

What scares me is that I will be most likely missing a step that other steps depend on… Ick…


----------



## wichle

dbhost said:


> *The plan moving forward. *
> 
> Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…
> 
> Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…
> 
> Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)
> 
> The steps to my plan moving forward are…
> 
> #1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.
> 
> #2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.
> 
> #3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2×4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.
> 
> #4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.
> 
> #5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…
> 
> #6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)
> 
> #7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…
> 
> #8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.
> 
> #9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.
> 
> #10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.
> 
> #11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.
> 
> #12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.
> 
> #13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.
> 
> #14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…
> 
> #15. Finish build of wide drum sander.
> 
> #16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…
> 
> Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…


i built my shop in Milwaukee in my basement. and frankly over the 8 years before we moved, there was always something forgotten, but because it was all on casters, an addiction of the lady of the house, things were easily re-arranged. It all had to be moved and put together in a new space. Looking at pictures taken throughout the evolution, I am amazed at just how often things changed or moved in my shop. As you work on different projects, you will find better ways to arrange your stuff. You should add a line to your plan; "think about the options."


----------



## dbhost

*Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*

The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…

So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.

But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…

With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?

My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…

What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


----------



## Delta356

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I would replace it with an old RAS. I really don't like that the Sliding Compound Miter saws don't have a big enough cut area to cut wood. The table is to small. If you get a RAS you can have a huge cutting table and the arm pulls further then the new Sliding Miter saws.
My 2 cents…

Thanks, Michael Frey
Portland, OR

FREY WOODWORKING INC.


----------



## Hoakie

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I inherited a very nice 60's model DeWalt from my Grandpa several years ago (see workshop pics). I typically just leave it set up for cross cuts which do not feel unsafe doing. The biggest issue is the blade will want to jump forward, but if you are smart about it, none of your body parts should be in the path anyway. As long as you are anticipating this possibility and control "feed rate" you shouldn't have a problem. I would not feel comfortable doing a lot of ripping, shaping, etc.., but I have done some.

That said, if the saw didn't have sentimental value to me, I might look for a SCMS just for the space consideration (which i know you have). But it wouldn't matter too much if you were planning on building a dedicated station for it


----------



## ChrisK

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I understand the frustration, I lived with a 8-1/4 Miter Saw for years. I however also have a 10" Craftsman radial arms saw. The RAS is about 16 years old. My RAS is hard to use for making miter cuts and such. I purchased a Craftsman 12" sliding from a Sears outlet over a year ago and my RAS has not been used since.

My RAS is good for production style cuts for construction type work ,deck rails, 2×4's,etc. I can cut up to 16' to the left of the blade. My 10" RAS will not cut a 4×4 in one pass. I use the 12" SCMS for every thing from 4×4 to fine trim and cabinet work. It is easy to set for accurate cuts on numerous parts and it bevels and angles very easily.

I have both saws set to cut long lengths left and right of the blade, mostly because my shop size lets me and I do a variety of wood working.

As far as safety goes *both will remove a finger(s)* that are in front of the blade. I do feel that the table saw is easier to use without placing fingers in the wrong area, but it is the only saw I needed to get stitches to stop the bleeding. I use stop blocks and clamps with my CSMS on a regular basis, both for safety and repeatability.

Hope this helps, Chris


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


To be honest, I am leaning a bit toward the SCMS. Space is a concern, and RAS's are big. But I CAN figure out a way to integrate an RAS in to my wall workbench which over the years really has ended up as more of a junk catcher than anything else. I use the outfeed table / workbench for actual work most of the time…

Unable to cut 4×4 in one pass is a deal breaker for me. And I have been wondering if a RAS would do that… I crosscut a LOT of 4×4 lumber for my yard projects, and I see a LOT of that in the future. The max width of any stock I have come up with has been some rift sawn white oak I resawed on my band saw a while back at 10.5", which the SCMS would handle…

No matter which way I go, that front bench is getting used for my crosscutting station, either SCMS or RAS. And yes, clamps and stop blocks, like mentioned above, for safety, and repeatability. I am fond of my fingers…


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


db,
I am in the process of fixing up a 1957 dewalt RAS. I have one blog post up so far with before pics, but I don't have much on my current status yet. Obviously, you can see what I'm going to suggest. haha.

Some thoughts that you should probably keep in mind. 
1) an old dewalt will last through A LOT of use and even abuse. 
2) it can do more than a SCMS
3) it doesn't have to be any more dangerous than other saws

If you decide to buy an old saw, the main things to look for are that the arm is made of cast iron, the ways are true, the parts all move, and the motor starts/runs smoothly.

The best book (if you buy a dewalt) is available at mrsawdust.com. I doubt you will find it elsewhere for less. It isn't a book that people part with once they own it. It is self published and the funds supposedly go to the author's widow.

If you get any old saw, you will almost certainly need to do some work to get it ready to use. This involves building a table, replacing the blade (more in a moment), and going through a complete alignment/tune-up. I'm working on this stuff and if I feel I can do it, I'm pretty sure anyone can.

As for the blade, the reason you will probably want to replace it is you will want a blade with a negative hook angle. I don't think they had these when RAS's came out. They help to prevent the "climb" that was talked about in an earlier post that probably scared a lot of people away from these 40+ years ago.

Finally, you should visit the dewalt radial arm saw pages on the delphi forums. just google it for a link. They are a great group that openly shares a ton of knowledge about their dewalt RAS's. They've helped em a bunch already.

I hope all these thoughts are helpful to you, but remember, they are just my opinions. I think most people afraid of the RAS are ignorant on the subject. You do need to know a lot about these saaws to sue them properly and in the safest manner, but it doesn't sound like rocket science to me. You just need to read up.


----------



## Dcase

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


My dads RAS is the first power tool I ever used back when I was like 10 years old. I am now 25 and still use that same saw which is now in my shop. A lot of people fear the RAS but IMO its no more threat then using the table saw. I am much more worried about table saw kickback then I am a RAS hurting me. I mostly use mine for cross cutting. The ability to cross cut wider boards is a huge advantage. I have had the saw grab the wood and jerk towards me many times but if your holding the arm nice and tight its not all that scary, especially once you have had it happen a few times. I think thats what scares people but having the saw grab the wood and jerk a little is not going to hurt you. As long as your fingers are out of the way and you keep a hold of the arm.

My RAS also has a router built into it and I have found many great uses for the RAS when used as an over top router. Having a radial arm router is great for small detail cuts, dados and even planing small stock.


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


oh, one big selling point for me is that the RAS can go flush against a wall. The SCMS can't (unless you are looking at the new bosch with the hinged arms).


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


Dan, what kind of blade are you using on your RAS, do you know?


----------



## Dcase

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


Hokie- I actually have the Forrest 8 1/4 Woodworker blade that I believe was designed for the RAS. My dad got the blade a long time ago and it was never serviced. I did get the blade sharpened and once I did that it didn't grab the wood as often. However it does still do it from time to time. Usually when I am cutting oak or other really hard woods. I think it has to do with the saws power. Its a smaller Ryobi saw and can only take the 8 1/4 blade… When cutting oak or hard maple I just pull the arm slow. I noticed sometimes when I pull it towards me to fast is when it jumps at me. I just have to remember to take it easy as she only has so much power.


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


Charlie,
I keep hearing that people can do dado's on the newer SCMS's, but I've never actually seen it done. If you've done it, can you explain it to me?

Is it just accomplished by using a regular blade and making lots of passes, or can you actually put a dado head on there? If it is a regular blade, do the bottoms come out flat like a stacked dado set would produce, or do you need to sand them flat? If it is a dado head, are there any issues with motor being underpowered or are these saws usually up to the task?


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


thanks for the clarification, and good to see you back here.


----------



## knife

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I stared working with a RAS when I was in high school. Not all that difficult once you try. Just be a little careful and not in a hurry. That said IMHO if you plan on cutting angles much the RAS can be a bit cumbersome, and probably not as accurate as a miter saw. The RAS is definitely not as portable if you want to take it to the work instead of the work to it.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


That is an excellent point. While I don't plan on doing it often. I do like being able to drag the CMS around to the back yard to crosscut 2×4s and such for the projects out there, especially if I am doing something that will need a lot of "sneak up" cuts…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I have used a 10 inch RAS for 40 years, the same one, and I have never been injured. But I wouldn't rip with it again. I keep it set up as a very quick and accurate crosscut specialist with its one year old new MDF table. It is hard to beat for routine crosscut, and the very occasional offbeat use, such as a horizontal drill press, etc. It will do dadoes just fine. Some people do all their dados on it and that's all they do with it.

I don't think your needs will be met by a RAS. I mostly keep mine due to habit and nostalgia. If it failed, I would buy a top notch miter saw of some sort. It is not very portable, unless you make it so. It was used in that fashion when I was in Fairbanks in the construction of an addition. Now with a very big table, it is less portable. You might send a PM to patron, he has a RAS, purchased used about a year ago. But he may have very specific uses for it. It sounds to me that you would need a 12 inch RAS, and they are rarer and cost more.

I love my fence setup with the RAS, and I can do crosscuts without measuring if under 30 inches, and the stop block is extremely handy. But you need a more portable miter saw, I suspect.

Jim


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


PS
Not much to learn to use a RAS for crosscut, it is pretty intuitive. The TS is more dangerous in my opinion. But again, if I were you, I wouldn't go the RAS route, get the miter saw.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I would get a RAS, its the best saw for crosscutting, I will be picking one up around the first of the year. Its an old Dewalt 9'' RAS from the 50's.


----------



## canadianchips

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I had a very good radial arm saw when I started carpentry. I used it a lot for making rafters. As far as cutting dado's with it, I found it to be a high maintenance for checking for square and depth. I sold it 14 years ago when I made a long distance move. I did have a good long table made for it, I tried ripping sheet goods in 24" or 16" strips. (Was never happy with ripping, once again I didn't feel it was accurate enough for what I wanted) I have since bought a 10" mitre saw and I like it more than the radial arm saw.
If you use common sense, the radial arm saw is relatively safe.


----------



## b2rtch

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


canadianchips

"My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

How successful are you?
Are you a clown by trade?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


As most of you know, the decision was made in favor of the SCMS, I had to jump to take advantage of the coupon I had, and honestly I have been watching RAS' for about a year and a half, and I knew I did not want a 10" or smaller, and I had yet to see a 12" RAS come in anywhere near my price range. (Limited budget and all). The closest I came was about 6 months ago, a 1960s I believe Dewalt 12" that needed a LOT of TLC was selling for $300.00… I guess the Houston Metro market for these is high or something. I have heard of guys up north pretty regularly getting the 12" models in good shape for my price range ($150.00 or less)...

Overall I am mostly happy with the SCMS, except for the blade. All of the other issues that I noted in my review are minor, but that blade, oh that blade is insanely bad… My visual inspection of the thing turned out quite accurate. Nasty, nasty, nasty blade…


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


There has been a lot of talk about different regions having more or less RAS's. My area is NOT a hotbed for these things so out of curiosity, I checked the north jersey listings of craigslist. That is apparently where 99% of all saws in the US reside. Lol.

I do think you are right though. It would be pretty unlikely to find a cheap 12" saw that is also in reasonable shape. My logic was that if a 10" blade was good enough on my table saw, it would be good enough on my RAS but you've already indicated that wasn't going to meet your needs.

The main complaint I've heard about on the 12" blades (any type of saw) is that you lose some accuracy the bigger the blade gets, especially if it is a thin kerf. Can you put blade stiffeners on a scms?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


Not sure. According to the Freud side, the D1280X is .118" (full kerf) versus say the D1296N thin kerf blade which is .091" (thin kerf).

Another factor is that the RAS, at least according to blade MFG websites, seem to require a different blade, which is not super common to find…

I didn't think that a 10" RAS would handle stock 4" thick… I thought 3.5" was the upper limit with those due to motor housings and such… At least that has been what folks have told me. That was why I ruled out the 10" models…


----------



## StumpyNubs

dbhost said:


> *Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!*
> 
> The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…
> 
> So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.
> 
> But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…
> 
> With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?
> 
> My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…
> 
> What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?


I know you already bought a SCMS but here's my thoughts on a RAS…

The old Dewalts are some of the most accurate, best saws around. The 1980's Craftsmans are much lower quality. A 10" Dewalt (B&D) with a proper blade is as safe as a table saw. Mine never rides up and I keep my fingers out of the way. A RAS takes up no more space than a SCMS. It's just has legs rather than sitting on a bench. A RAS is not portable and will not cut 4X4 stock in one pass. I bought a cheap older CMS for using on the deck and have a RAS in the shop. A RAS is great for Dados, which is the top reason to go with it over a SCMS.


----------



## dbhost

*The new saw decision has been made. The winner is...*

Okay so I did a lot of calling around on RAS' in my price range, and to be blunt, they were TRASHED. Or too danged small for my needs. There was one old DeWalt 12" out there, that had the capacity, and everything was there, but it was so badly rusted it would take me a year and a ton of money to fix what was left to rot…

So before it expired, my coupon and I went to Harbor Freight, where they had a stack of the #98194 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Mind you, the laser is pointless for me, but that's another story all together…

Now mind you, this IS a Harbor Freight tool, and I would be out of my ever lovin' mind if I got the thing without the warranty. So I snatched the 2 year extended plan for an extra $19.00. Cheap insurance if you ask me.

I also did measure the entire distance front, to the back of the slide rails with the head slid all the way back, and it measures 28" to the front of the casting where the front bolts mount. (the table protrudes). In order to allow SOME room behind for a DC hood, I will want my mounting surface to be 30" deep. Now the bench that will be converted to a miter saw station, is 24" deep. I will need to bump out the miter saw shelf to 30". Good thing to know. For the most part, this is not a problem as I have 4' between this bench, and the workbench / table saw outfeed table.. I am somewhat considering actually bumping out the entire bench to that depth, but that would mean I would need to make the front legs longer. This is the bench that sits on the 2" lip in my shop. Not a huge deal… It's just 2×4s…

So with the new purchase, I REALLY need to step up my efforts to get my 10" non slider out of my shop.

Anyone want to buy a good condition Firestorm 10" miter saw?


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *The new saw decision has been made. The winner is...*
> 
> Okay so I did a lot of calling around on RAS' in my price range, and to be blunt, they were TRASHED. Or too danged small for my needs. There was one old DeWalt 12" out there, that had the capacity, and everything was there, but it was so badly rusted it would take me a year and a ton of money to fix what was left to rot…
> 
> So before it expired, my coupon and I went to Harbor Freight, where they had a stack of the #98194 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Mind you, the laser is pointless for me, but that's another story all together…
> 
> Now mind you, this IS a Harbor Freight tool, and I would be out of my ever lovin' mind if I got the thing without the warranty. So I snatched the 2 year extended plan for an extra $19.00. Cheap insurance if you ask me.
> 
> I also did measure the entire distance front, to the back of the slide rails with the head slid all the way back, and it measures 28" to the front of the casting where the front bolts mount. (the table protrudes). In order to allow SOME room behind for a DC hood, I will want my mounting surface to be 30" deep. Now the bench that will be converted to a miter saw station, is 24" deep. I will need to bump out the miter saw shelf to 30". Good thing to know. For the most part, this is not a problem as I have 4' between this bench, and the workbench / table saw outfeed table.. I am somewhat considering actually bumping out the entire bench to that depth, but that would mean I would need to make the front legs longer. This is the bench that sits on the 2" lip in my shop. Not a huge deal… It's just 2×4s…
> 
> So with the new purchase, I REALLY need to step up my efforts to get my 10" non slider out of my shop.
> 
> Anyone want to buy a good condition Firestorm 10" miter saw?


I just died a little on the inside. lol.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The new saw decision has been made. The winner is...*
> 
> Okay so I did a lot of calling around on RAS' in my price range, and to be blunt, they were TRASHED. Or too danged small for my needs. There was one old DeWalt 12" out there, that had the capacity, and everything was there, but it was so badly rusted it would take me a year and a ton of money to fix what was left to rot…
> 
> So before it expired, my coupon and I went to Harbor Freight, where they had a stack of the #98194 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Mind you, the laser is pointless for me, but that's another story all together…
> 
> Now mind you, this IS a Harbor Freight tool, and I would be out of my ever lovin' mind if I got the thing without the warranty. So I snatched the 2 year extended plan for an extra $19.00. Cheap insurance if you ask me.
> 
> I also did measure the entire distance front, to the back of the slide rails with the head slid all the way back, and it measures 28" to the front of the casting where the front bolts mount. (the table protrudes). In order to allow SOME room behind for a DC hood, I will want my mounting surface to be 30" deep. Now the bench that will be converted to a miter saw station, is 24" deep. I will need to bump out the miter saw shelf to 30". Good thing to know. For the most part, this is not a problem as I have 4' between this bench, and the workbench / table saw outfeed table.. I am somewhat considering actually bumping out the entire bench to that depth, but that would mean I would need to make the front legs longer. This is the bench that sits on the 2" lip in my shop. Not a huge deal… It's just 2×4s…
> 
> So with the new purchase, I REALLY need to step up my efforts to get my 10" non slider out of my shop.
> 
> Anyone want to buy a good condition Firestorm 10" miter saw?


Well, considering my budget constraints, I just wasn't seen decent RAS' in my price range. The ones that weren't rusted up had bad motors, and the sellers still wanted a bill and a half for them! That, combined with the limited capacity height wise of the smaller models that were in my price range and in good shape (A couple of B&D, a Ryobi, and a couple of Craftsman, 9, and 7.25" models…) just pushed me over the edge to the SCMS… After fiddling with the SCMS floor model in store, it seemed reasonably set up, the slide was smooth, and there was no head deflection, at least that I could feel… I might just stash the B&D up in the attic for a while to see how I like this one…


----------



## Howie

dbhost said:


> *The new saw decision has been made. The winner is...*
> 
> Okay so I did a lot of calling around on RAS' in my price range, and to be blunt, they were TRASHED. Or too danged small for my needs. There was one old DeWalt 12" out there, that had the capacity, and everything was there, but it was so badly rusted it would take me a year and a ton of money to fix what was left to rot…
> 
> So before it expired, my coupon and I went to Harbor Freight, where they had a stack of the #98194 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Mind you, the laser is pointless for me, but that's another story all together…
> 
> Now mind you, this IS a Harbor Freight tool, and I would be out of my ever lovin' mind if I got the thing without the warranty. So I snatched the 2 year extended plan for an extra $19.00. Cheap insurance if you ask me.
> 
> I also did measure the entire distance front, to the back of the slide rails with the head slid all the way back, and it measures 28" to the front of the casting where the front bolts mount. (the table protrudes). In order to allow SOME room behind for a DC hood, I will want my mounting surface to be 30" deep. Now the bench that will be converted to a miter saw station, is 24" deep. I will need to bump out the miter saw shelf to 30". Good thing to know. For the most part, this is not a problem as I have 4' between this bench, and the workbench / table saw outfeed table.. I am somewhat considering actually bumping out the entire bench to that depth, but that would mean I would need to make the front legs longer. This is the bench that sits on the 2" lip in my shop. Not a huge deal… It's just 2×4s…
> 
> So with the new purchase, I REALLY need to step up my efforts to get my 10" non slider out of my shop.
> 
> Anyone want to buy a good condition Firestorm 10" miter saw?


db, the thing about HF is you will either love then or hate them. Frankly I don't have a problem with them. You probably made a good choice, enjoy!


----------



## HokieMojo

dbhost said:


> *The new saw decision has been made. The winner is...*
> 
> Okay so I did a lot of calling around on RAS' in my price range, and to be blunt, they were TRASHED. Or too danged small for my needs. There was one old DeWalt 12" out there, that had the capacity, and everything was there, but it was so badly rusted it would take me a year and a ton of money to fix what was left to rot…
> 
> So before it expired, my coupon and I went to Harbor Freight, where they had a stack of the #98194 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Mind you, the laser is pointless for me, but that's another story all together…
> 
> Now mind you, this IS a Harbor Freight tool, and I would be out of my ever lovin' mind if I got the thing without the warranty. So I snatched the 2 year extended plan for an extra $19.00. Cheap insurance if you ask me.
> 
> I also did measure the entire distance front, to the back of the slide rails with the head slid all the way back, and it measures 28" to the front of the casting where the front bolts mount. (the table protrudes). In order to allow SOME room behind for a DC hood, I will want my mounting surface to be 30" deep. Now the bench that will be converted to a miter saw station, is 24" deep. I will need to bump out the miter saw shelf to 30". Good thing to know. For the most part, this is not a problem as I have 4' between this bench, and the workbench / table saw outfeed table.. I am somewhat considering actually bumping out the entire bench to that depth, but that would mean I would need to make the front legs longer. This is the bench that sits on the 2" lip in my shop. Not a huge deal… It's just 2×4s…
> 
> So with the new purchase, I REALLY need to step up my efforts to get my 10" non slider out of my shop.
> 
> Anyone want to buy a good condition Firestorm 10" miter saw?


I wasn't judging. Just joking. We've all got our own set of criteria to base things on. I hope it gets the job done for you.


----------



## dbhost

*LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*

This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…

Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!

I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…

I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!

Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…














































And the far less than glorious, what is left to be done…


----------



## Eric_S

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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I spent all weekend cleaning too. It was such a mess you couldn't even walk around to clean it because it was all trash and scrap old plywood that I would no longer use that had to be thrown away immediately in order to clean. So I took it all to the public landfill which helped a lot with moving forward with the cleaning. Its almost all clean now 

Good luck with the cleaning. Post some pics if you can


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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I am also into a bunch of reorg, but some of it relates to new tools, disc sander and spindle/belt sander, getting rid of boxes, so I can put the new boxes there until I know the items work. That darn disc sander will take Sherie and I to lift it up to the bench. Heavy, heavy.

Strange, I also was into waxing, in my case the table saw top. Hadn't done it for a year. That super sled is a winner, very flexible and useful, just thought I would keep things smooth. Waxed the bottom of the sled as well. Using it to make some angled pieces for the scrollsaw stand turned into a drillpress stand. It will gain shelves and tip wheels for mobility. It is a semipermanent thing, I think.

I have pretty much settled on a design for my mobile tables and mobile tool stands. Bought some electrical stuff for those. Also got a Bosch impact driver and drill/screwdriver combo. Already putting them to work. My old power screw driver looked good, but never had much power, and the batteries constantly ran out. Dewalt thing, not too old. It will probably be used again sometime, but I am not sure when.

Well just took a short breather…......on call, but it has been relatively light, so got a bunch of shop reorg time anyway.

Later….....

Jim


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## RonPeters

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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It feels good to get stuff done.

If I ever get going on dust collection, I'd like to assemble the PVC like you have. I thought about galvanized stove pipe, but I think the PVC might be the better choice. Although, static may be a problem with PVC?

I have the same trashcan set up with a shopvac. How does it work on going from the smaller diameter to the larger diameter pipe? Any suggestions? PM me please.


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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*Ron*, I think dbhost and I will tell you the same thing. Forget about the static. You cannot generate enough sawdust and air flow in a home shop to create a combustion situation. He and I independently traveled the same route investigating it, and that is the conclusion. Neither of us grounds tubing.

*David*, great pictures. Your shop looks like mine did in the mid '80's when I first bought this house. But I got it organized before 1990 and have maintained a semblance of order since. I stil have spot which is off the garage almost like a pantry that needs a lot of weeding out. At Sherie's suggestion, that is going to be my new wood storage area when I elmininate the shelves on one side and make some dedicated wood storage.

Right now I am cheating. Have so many new tools that came in the shop that I am keeping the Rigid spindle sander in the back of the van overnight….......(-:

Jim


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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Well, considering this month makes the 3rd anniversary of the "Official" start of "Go ahead and build yourself a shop"... I think I am doing pretty well… Especially considering finances… I have been blessed with an awful lot of good deals, and a few great gifts that have helped build my shop…

That spindle sander needs to go to bed in its own home Jim!

The REALLY tough part is about to begin. There are LARGE amounts of just plain old stuff in there, like the folding metal chairs. I have no clue what to do with them… I haven't used them in years, and really have no reason to keep them. I might just have to start chucking stuff in the bed of the truck to take to to the donation center soon!

I answered Ron via PM, but I wanted to post this up for folks to not get confused. I have BOTH a shop vac, and a DC, both of which are run through Thien separators of their own… So I am not necking UP my vac to run 4" duct… Come to think of it, I need to wash the filter on my shop vac… It's been at least a year, and suction is suffering right now…


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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Hopefully will get the spindle sander and the disc sander installed today in their temporary location. But the wheels have to go on the drill press stand (the unused scrollsaw stand that came with it, with multiple additions such as shelves) to get it out of the way. Sherie will have to help me lift the disc sander, it is heavy.

Got a bunch of shop stuff to do today, taking the day off since I was on call this weekend. Very quiet call weekend, so I got a bunch of shop stuff done. Got to go make rounds at two hospitals now before the traffic gets bad…......

16deg at 0650hrs….......

Jim


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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That temp report makes my toes hurt…

FWIW, I have yet to figure out what exactly I am going to do with the miter saw location wise. Where it is now is VERY temporary… The workbench along the wall, and the peg board is going away. The bare spot of wall behind the drill press and band saw is getting filled with peg board. Perhaps all the way to the water softener. I might just end up re-hanging things…

Once I get the "stuff" clean, I am planning on running some old, well dried 2×4 stock through the table saw, and coming up with some 1.25" square stock for a HF mobile base for the drill press. I am not sure, but I think it is going to go back between the garage doors again…


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...*
> 
> This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…
> 
> Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!
> 
> I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…
> 
> I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!
> 
> Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…
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My biggest problem is keeping the shop running while I revamp the shop. The built in work bench that holds the small band saw, the grinder, and (until this week the drillpress and the small disc/belt sander) and now the two new sanders will be torn down, probably in the next couple of months. But I have to make mobile mounts for things. The small bandsaw and the grinder might occupy the the same mount, for instance, because they would not interfere with each other. But I just don't know. The freezer will get moved in the next couple months, and the drill press may temporarily end up in its spot.

I am designing mobile mounts to be all on the same basic format, with common dimensions where possible so that I don't have to make a new design for each tool. Same with the wall cabinets. I am going to install standardized french cleat at high and low levels around much of my space. That will allow easy installation and reconfiguration as the shop changes. At least I have a general plan now, although certain specifics are lacking, such as what goes where. The tool bench may be moved or assigned another purpose, but I think I may move it to another position. It is tempting to put the RAS and the bench next to each other at the same height, but I doubt I will do that. Oh well, still to undecided to even mak revisions to my SU plan.

Hopefully, will get some stuff done today….....

I wear the same clothes to work in summer and winter. Same shoes, no overshoes, same coat, no hat. In Fairbanks, when there is a lot of minus 25 degree weather, you change your clothes dramatically with the season change. When it gets to 32 deg in Fairbanks, you start to see people in short sleeve shirts on the street…......honest…...the concept of cold is totally different there.

Jim


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## dbhost

*Not much shop time, but more cleaning is done!*

Just as a little side note, the piles of stuff on the table saw, as well as the outfeed workbench are now things of the past. I have another tote that is now nothing but empty space, and another giant trash bag full to the brim. The Strong Tie workbench is down to just misc small stuff. As the old saying goes. Lord Willing and the Creek Don't Rise, the cleanup project should be done by this weekend! This is a HUGE relief for me as this has been nagging at me for a very long time now. This is also something I dread, because once that is done, I move on to cleaning up the home office, which is as bad, if not worse than the shop was…

I still have other projects that will need to take place in here. Everything from the storage cabinets to clean up my hanging storage a bit more, a mobile lumber rack and miter saw station to accommodate sheet goods, and of course, bringing proper power into the shop and insulating the side walls. But at least once it is "clean enough" I can whip out the camcorder and film a good shop tour for you folks (and my insurance company). And since my Dad is on the other side of the country, I would really like him to have a chance to see how my shop is coming along…

LOML was getting somewhat worried about me, what with this terribly cold weather we are having now… Admittedly nothing like what you folks are getting up north, but for us, nasty cold, and all sorts of windy… It was all of 38 degrees outside tonight, and she was ready to fuss at me about coming in from the shop, but when she opened the door and realized the shop was at least 72 degrees, she quietly ducked back into the house… That propane heater isn't trustworthy overnight, but it sure is useful when working… And yes even though I am partially insulated, my shop is drafty enough that I am not worried about make up air. My heater is one of those with a low oxygen shut off that works quite nicely. Actually it is a LOUSY heater to try to use at high elevations…

Anyway, I am rambling on… You will see the completion of my project shortly enough I do hope…


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much shop time, but more cleaning is done!*
> 
> Just as a little side note, the piles of stuff on the table saw, as well as the outfeed workbench are now things of the past. I have another tote that is now nothing but empty space, and another giant trash bag full to the brim. The Strong Tie workbench is down to just misc small stuff. As the old saying goes. Lord Willing and the Creek Don't Rise, the cleanup project should be done by this weekend! This is a HUGE relief for me as this has been nagging at me for a very long time now. This is also something I dread, because once that is done, I move on to cleaning up the home office, which is as bad, if not worse than the shop was…
> 
> I still have other projects that will need to take place in here. Everything from the storage cabinets to clean up my hanging storage a bit more, a mobile lumber rack and miter saw station to accommodate sheet goods, and of course, bringing proper power into the shop and insulating the side walls. But at least once it is "clean enough" I can whip out the camcorder and film a good shop tour for you folks (and my insurance company). And since my Dad is on the other side of the country, I would really like him to have a chance to see how my shop is coming along…
> 
> LOML was getting somewhat worried about me, what with this terribly cold weather we are having now… Admittedly nothing like what you folks are getting up north, but for us, nasty cold, and all sorts of windy… It was all of 38 degrees outside tonight, and she was ready to fuss at me about coming in from the shop, but when she opened the door and realized the shop was at least 72 degrees, she quietly ducked back into the house… That propane heater isn't trustworthy overnight, but it sure is useful when working… And yes even though I am partially insulated, my shop is drafty enough that I am not worried about make up air. My heater is one of those with a low oxygen shut off that works quite nicely. Actually it is a LOUSY heater to try to use at high elevations…
> 
> Anyway, I am rambling on… You will see the completion of my project shortly enough I do hope…


Keep nibbling at the pile, and unless you are putting more things on it, you should get through it eventually.

Off to work again, worked late yesterday, but today should be better. Try to catch up on email when I get home. My daughter and family (son-in-law and three grand kids) from Fairbanks, are driving down today, so the house will become a welcome and fun uproar.

Have a good Trash-a-Thon….......

Jim


----------



## dbhost

*It's clean, now on to other projects!*

I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


----------



## mpatrick

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


I noticed that you have one of those portable a/c units. How well does it work for these Texas summers? How loud is it?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


The unit will drop my shop temps 20 + degrees in September weather here in about 30 minutes.

It's no louder than the window unit I started out with, and a bunch more effective to boot! Not saying it's real quiet, it is louder than my dust collector, but from what I understand, my DC might just be one of the quieter HF DCs out there… All in all I find the sound inoffensive. From outside the house, it sounds like a clothes dryer working…

This particular model was chosen for capacity (13.5K BTU), and rating (3.5 stars, which on most products isn't great, but it is one of the highest I had seen for portable A/C units, apparently these things are trouble prone!)

I also chose a portable unit for tax reasons. Around here, if I install a permanent heater / air conditioning unit to an enclosed space, that space becomes taxable as living square footage. But window units, and portable units do not. Which means the tax man leaves me alone on this upgrade…


----------



## mpatrick

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


What model did you get?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


It's the Royal Sovereign ARP-1400 WW. I ordered the ARP-1400 BLS (the difference is the one I got is white, what I wanted is black.) Amazon has them listed…

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Sovereig400BLS-Classically-Conditioner/dp/B0036VP6HWn-ARP-1

I got mine at Home Depot on sale though, it was a LOT less expensive than what Amazon lists them for right now… I think I paid $325.00 for mine.


----------



## mpatrick

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


thanks db.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


No worries. I don't think Home Depot still has it on their site. It got MUCH better reviews there. I noticed you are from Houston. I am in the Clear Lake area, yes this thing keeps up with our humidity, more or less…


----------



## mpatrick

dbhost said:


> *It's clean, now on to other projects!*
> 
> I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.


Yeah I'm in the south houston, pasadena area right off of 45. I was concerned about the humidity, so thats good to know.


----------



## dbhost

*Camcorder is charged up, tripod is ready, need to shoot and edit... *

And I am hoping to get my fellow LJs inputs here. I really am starting to like how I have the tools laid out, and although DC tubing adjustments need to be made (blast gates aren't exactly where I want them), I am close enough to call it good for now… So what I have left to be concerned about is power. I have only 1 15 amp outlet (20 amp breaker) in the shop. For the longest time, I have been running an extension cord in to the laundry room to power the tools, and run the DC off of the shop power. (this is not a good solution, but the only one I have for now). So obviously I need more power in the shop. But I need some input on WHERE to put the panel. I know I want a sub panel, but I am not sure about what the restrictions are distances and such for a sub panel.

So as I pan around, shooting from various angles, I am going to do something a little different from what I see in other shop tours, is that I am going to be using the zoom lens a bit more than most folks do… No sense in stopping the camera, walking across the room, and starting up again to get a tighter shot right?

Now I have some concerns about creating this video, since it has been, oh 10 years or so since I have done any serious video editing…

#1. I am on Linux now, no more Mac for me (professional reasons). Does anyone here have any experience using LiVEs, and if so, can you give me some tips on creating slide in text banners like those that you see on news programs?

#2. I am planning on running background music, as well as narration. Should I process the audio tracks separate from the video, or with the video? I simply want to run music fading in and out during transitions, then switch to the narration.

#3. In order to avoid any possible copyright hassles, can anyone point me to a good repository of copyleft / creative commons licensed music that I can use?

Honestly, I have been itching to do some video work for a LONG time, so this is more or less of an excuse to try to hone skills I gained in college, and haven't used much since…


----------



## GregD

dbhost said:


> *Camcorder is charged up, tripod is ready, need to shoot and edit... *
> 
> And I am hoping to get my fellow LJs inputs here. I really am starting to like how I have the tools laid out, and although DC tubing adjustments need to be made (blast gates aren't exactly where I want them), I am close enough to call it good for now… So what I have left to be concerned about is power. I have only 1 15 amp outlet (20 amp breaker) in the shop. For the longest time, I have been running an extension cord in to the laundry room to power the tools, and run the DC off of the shop power. (this is not a good solution, but the only one I have for now). So obviously I need more power in the shop. But I need some input on WHERE to put the panel. I know I want a sub panel, but I am not sure about what the restrictions are distances and such for a sub panel.
> 
> So as I pan around, shooting from various angles, I am going to do something a little different from what I see in other shop tours, is that I am going to be using the zoom lens a bit more than most folks do… No sense in stopping the camera, walking across the room, and starting up again to get a tighter shot right?
> 
> Now I have some concerns about creating this video, since it has been, oh 10 years or so since I have done any serious video editing…
> 
> #1. I am on Linux now, no more Mac for me (professional reasons). Does anyone here have any experience using LiVEs, and if so, can you give me some tips on creating slide in text banners like those that you see on news programs?
> 
> #2. I am planning on running background music, as well as narration. Should I process the audio tracks separate from the video, or with the video? I simply want to run music fading in and out during transitions, then switch to the narration.
> 
> #3. In order to avoid any possible copyright hassles, can anyone point me to a good repository of copyleft / creative commons licensed music that I can use?
> 
> Honestly, I have been itching to do some video work for a LONG time, so this is more or less of an excuse to try to hone skills I gained in college, and haven't used much since…


mutopiaproject.org provides a collection of sheet music for compositions in the public domain. The source code for the sheet music (lilypond) can also be translated to midi, which are also posted.

If you want to DIY your music but don't play, I have used a linux utility for creating backup tracks in midi, and some people do entire compositions with it:
http://www.mellowood.ca/mma/index.html

If you understand music notation it is not hard to use. Of course, you could also compose in lilypond.

I will check with a buddy that probably knows about video editing on linux.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Camcorder is charged up, tripod is ready, need to shoot and edit... *
> 
> And I am hoping to get my fellow LJs inputs here. I really am starting to like how I have the tools laid out, and although DC tubing adjustments need to be made (blast gates aren't exactly where I want them), I am close enough to call it good for now… So what I have left to be concerned about is power. I have only 1 15 amp outlet (20 amp breaker) in the shop. For the longest time, I have been running an extension cord in to the laundry room to power the tools, and run the DC off of the shop power. (this is not a good solution, but the only one I have for now). So obviously I need more power in the shop. But I need some input on WHERE to put the panel. I know I want a sub panel, but I am not sure about what the restrictions are distances and such for a sub panel.
> 
> So as I pan around, shooting from various angles, I am going to do something a little different from what I see in other shop tours, is that I am going to be using the zoom lens a bit more than most folks do… No sense in stopping the camera, walking across the room, and starting up again to get a tighter shot right?
> 
> Now I have some concerns about creating this video, since it has been, oh 10 years or so since I have done any serious video editing…
> 
> #1. I am on Linux now, no more Mac for me (professional reasons). Does anyone here have any experience using LiVEs, and if so, can you give me some tips on creating slide in text banners like those that you see on news programs?
> 
> #2. I am planning on running background music, as well as narration. Should I process the audio tracks separate from the video, or with the video? I simply want to run music fading in and out during transitions, then switch to the narration.
> 
> #3. In order to avoid any possible copyright hassles, can anyone point me to a good repository of copyleft / creative commons licensed music that I can use?
> 
> Honestly, I have been itching to do some video work for a LONG time, so this is more or less of an excuse to try to hone skills I gained in college, and haven't used much since…


FWIW, I am a bass player as well. I need drums, and guitar… Heck if it weren't for copyright, I'd use snippets out of the Dukes of Hazard soundtrack. At least that would give folks a laugh…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Camcorder is charged up, tripod is ready, need to shoot and edit... *
> 
> And I am hoping to get my fellow LJs inputs here. I really am starting to like how I have the tools laid out, and although DC tubing adjustments need to be made (blast gates aren't exactly where I want them), I am close enough to call it good for now… So what I have left to be concerned about is power. I have only 1 15 amp outlet (20 amp breaker) in the shop. For the longest time, I have been running an extension cord in to the laundry room to power the tools, and run the DC off of the shop power. (this is not a good solution, but the only one I have for now). So obviously I need more power in the shop. But I need some input on WHERE to put the panel. I know I want a sub panel, but I am not sure about what the restrictions are distances and such for a sub panel.
> 
> So as I pan around, shooting from various angles, I am going to do something a little different from what I see in other shop tours, is that I am going to be using the zoom lens a bit more than most folks do… No sense in stopping the camera, walking across the room, and starting up again to get a tighter shot right?
> 
> Now I have some concerns about creating this video, since it has been, oh 10 years or so since I have done any serious video editing…
> 
> #1. I am on Linux now, no more Mac for me (professional reasons). Does anyone here have any experience using LiVEs, and if so, can you give me some tips on creating slide in text banners like those that you see on news programs?
> 
> #2. I am planning on running background music, as well as narration. Should I process the audio tracks separate from the video, or with the video? I simply want to run music fading in and out during transitions, then switch to the narration.
> 
> #3. In order to avoid any possible copyright hassles, can anyone point me to a good repository of copyleft / creative commons licensed music that I can use?
> 
> Honestly, I have been itching to do some video work for a LONG time, so this is more or less of an excuse to try to hone skills I gained in college, and haven't used much since…


*David*
If you are thinking the lawyers are going to be looking at this…........you better start looking for….....alien zombies as well….....(-:

Play the national anthem…..........or twinkle, twinkle….....that would most likely be safe…..........(-:

Remember, all the classical music is public domain, and no one can tell one orchestra from another…..........

...........how about Lawrence Welk…........

Somewhere, over the rainbow….........come on….......take a chance, live dangerously….......

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Camcorder is charged up, tripod is ready, need to shoot and edit... *
> 
> And I am hoping to get my fellow LJs inputs here. I really am starting to like how I have the tools laid out, and although DC tubing adjustments need to be made (blast gates aren't exactly where I want them), I am close enough to call it good for now… So what I have left to be concerned about is power. I have only 1 15 amp outlet (20 amp breaker) in the shop. For the longest time, I have been running an extension cord in to the laundry room to power the tools, and run the DC off of the shop power. (this is not a good solution, but the only one I have for now). So obviously I need more power in the shop. But I need some input on WHERE to put the panel. I know I want a sub panel, but I am not sure about what the restrictions are distances and such for a sub panel.
> 
> So as I pan around, shooting from various angles, I am going to do something a little different from what I see in other shop tours, is that I am going to be using the zoom lens a bit more than most folks do… No sense in stopping the camera, walking across the room, and starting up again to get a tighter shot right?
> 
> Now I have some concerns about creating this video, since it has been, oh 10 years or so since I have done any serious video editing…
> 
> #1. I am on Linux now, no more Mac for me (professional reasons). Does anyone here have any experience using LiVEs, and if so, can you give me some tips on creating slide in text banners like those that you see on news programs?
> 
> #2. I am planning on running background music, as well as narration. Should I process the audio tracks separate from the video, or with the video? I simply want to run music fading in and out during transitions, then switch to the narration.
> 
> #3. In order to avoid any possible copyright hassles, can anyone point me to a good repository of copyleft / creative commons licensed music that I can use?
> 
> Honestly, I have been itching to do some video work for a LONG time, so this is more or less of an excuse to try to hone skills I gained in college, and haven't used much since…


Alien Zombies? más cerebros


----------



## dbhost

*Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*

The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).

I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.

I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


Pictures….......where are the pictures….....oh well, back to the comics page…............(-:

This morning I ripped a slightly warped 2by4, construction grade, using two feather boards, the default guard and splitter (default except that I have modified it for quick removal and placement, under 30 sec), and the Vega "Finger Saver", which slides along the top of the fence and provides downward and forward pressure. I measured the result, and was on target within less than one hundreth of an inch…......except at one point where the other side of the board narrowed (I am not jointing these). I did this with complete safety. I think I could have done this on my super sled as well, but the setup would have taken more time.

I sometimes wonder if building up the shop has been worth it, but it is at times like this that I realize that I not only am markedly safer, but markedly more accurate. In other words, building shop stuff has been my learning project, and I have become familiar with my saws and other equipment.

I am building a new base for my project table. Made from construction fir and cheap plywood. Nails and glue, and a few screws here and there. It will house the compressor in an enclosed compartment for noise control, and have a place for the nail guns. Just used nail guns for the first time yesterday. Boy is that going to speed me up. I was surprised at the strength of the joints.

Got the new sanders installed and aligned, with DC and power attached. Same for the drill press on its new stand. It is now at the proper height, and is mobile. Got a lot done in the shop this weekend.

Vacation next week, this week will probably be busy….....

Later…....

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


Funny thing is, the Shop Projects are not just skill builders (I am not really learning anything new on this, but rather using established skills), but for me at least, they can be stress relievers. After my experience, and what I have learned building my table saw extension table and my drill press table, i am actually planning on rebuilding both of them so that I can end up with final products with the features I wanted, without the hiccups I had making the current ones…

Just from a me-time perspective, building the shop has been well worth it… It's a great way to get and keep my head screwed on straight.


----------



## patron

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


pictures of head screwed on straight please

i could use that too


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


There you go, sorry, no head screwed on straight photos….


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


OK, now I have to see the T-Track, Having trouble visualizing this….......but….......the DC looks robust. By the way, I love this stuff, I think you know, so give me anything you got.

I am going to suddenly come out with a flurry of shop projects and blogs, but I am working to get them done, so am neglecting my LJ duty. My base for the project table is being built, of course, on detailed Sketchup diagrams. It got complicated when I realized I wanted the compressor and the nail guns in the base. But, I think it will be a cool deal. I put a 4 plug box on the drill press stand, so that I could plug lights and stuff into it. I will do the same for the project table base. Think I will drop 12 or 14 gauge wire dropdowns ending above head height in my main area so I don't have cords on the floor. You know me, I don't hesitate to run wire around. Gotta be plugged in….....its the modern way.

So this construction lumber and plywood project base should be fun. I gotta work around the warped stuff, but there are only a few critical areas, like with a door or two. I like to do this kinda thing. Your router fence looks like it is the same caliber of plywood I use…...big box. You know, even if it has some warp, the small pieces don't reveal it…......(-:

Now you are going to tell me it was some expensive select plywood or something…..............doubt it.

Keep the pictures coming, I am following. You beat out the comics page for the day….........(-:

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


LOL…

No pics of where the T track goes yet. That will come tomorrow when I cut the dadoes… Just picture if you will, the back side of the piece laminated with hardboard having a T track dadoed in so the center of it is 1.5" from the bottom. The star knobs will be inside the frame of the fence, 2 on each side, allowing the fence faces to slide. Then the faces ripped 2.35" from the bottom to make the fixed piece…

It will make a LOT more sense once it is done…

Yeah, expensive plywood sure… This isn't even cheap sanded ply… This is decking grade stuff that I am spending quality time with elmers wood filler and my sander to get somewhat smoothish…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


I use a lot of sand paper and a lot of elmer's wood filler as well…...............

Jim

PS
Yup, need more pictures…...........(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


Of course you do :-D….

I need to figure out a glue problem with the extension wing I noticed last night. The hardboard is delaminating along the back rail of the saw… Ugh…

I am only going to sand sliding surfaces smooth, and then coat them with beeswax to lubricate them and make moving them easier…

I just noticed that my workbench top is getting somewhat nasty looking. A far cry from the freshly BLO-ed top of a year and a half ago! This proves 2 things… #1. I have had a lot of projects on this thing, and #2, I need to figure out a way to protect the bench top.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


You know, I bought a piece of melamine and contact cement a number of months ago, for a jointing jig for the TS I never built. Have you thought of trying that? I will probably build a new top for my router table, but not for another 6 months or more. I thought I might try my hand at laminating. It doesn't look terribly difficult, although it would be a new skill to learn. Then I would probably use some combination of MDF, plywood, and hardboard for the substance of the board. Haven't got that far yet…............

Jim


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


PS
The cement and the melamine weren't dirt cheap, but I got a 4×8 sheet that should be good for a number of projects. Bought the stuff at Lowe's.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


I have always used Titebond II and Titebond III for hardboard laminations with great success. This is the first delamination I have had. I should be able to inject the gap with glue, and clamp it with some cauls and call it good. The big problem is that the thing is a real bear to remove…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Router table fence V3.0 is underway!*
> 
> The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).
> 
> I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.
> 
> I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.


I haven't done much with hardboard in terms of laminations, although I have been tempted. Sooner or later, I will have to try the melamine.

Would you believe I am making a new handle for my portable computer case out of wood? It is a two pieces coming together to make a handle and one half broke. I really only use the handle to toss it up in the airplane overhead, and put it on or off of my carry-on. I always use the strap for longer hauls, but usually it just rides on top of my carry-on. So I am making it simply out of 1/2" dowel, with some solid oak ends, gluing with Titebond III. I have to make two of them, however, so it is a pain. But the case is good, except for the handle. Don't want to get the handle replaced, it would probably break again. We'll see how my goofy handle works. Should look alright, I'll just Watco it with something dark to match the black case. Got to thinking about it since we are going on vacation on Friday for a week.


----------



## dbhost

*Finally, the video shop tour.*

It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…

Part 1 of my video shop tour.





Part 2 of my video shop tour.


----------



## dkirtley

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Cool tour. Thanks for taking the time to post. It's a nice extra way to keep a backup list for the insurance like you said.


----------



## MikeGager

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


did you install the insulation on the garage doors? wondering if it made a noticable difference


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Yes, and yes, it made a huge difference. I believe the stuff was called R-Max plus 5 or something like that. I got it at Lowes… It is bonded to the doors and to each other using Liquid Nails for Projects…


----------



## lanwater

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Great tour.

Does the insulation on the door also reduce the noise outside?

I have been looking to reduce the noise that escapes my garage. Especially the router.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


To a large extent yes. I used to be able to hear my wife's car pull in to the driveway, now I don't know she's home until I hear the front door…


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Great workshop tour.


----------



## Hoakie

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


great tour. It is nice to finally see your shop. Maybe I'll have to do something similar soon. It was also nice to finally get a face with the name…I was half expecting a pair of talking planes to do the tour


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Hmmm. Maybe I should have had the planes do the talking for me huh? LOL!


----------



## Gregn

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Good Tour, Thanks.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Great tour, David, got through the second half just now. I would buy a video camera, but it is just another thing to learn, and there are too many things on the table just now. What I ought to do is buy one while I am on vacation, and learn to use it now. But, it probably won't happen.

Again, thanks for the tour…............

Jim


----------



## anoldwoodchuck

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Thank you for this video tour. I got a lot of good ideas from your storage solution for bench-top tools in part one of the tour.


----------



## MuzzleMike

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


Nice shop . I wish mine was 1% as nice as yours .


----------



## steliart

dbhost said:


> *Finally, the video shop tour.*
> 
> It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…
> 
> Part 1 of my video shop tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my video shop tour.


thanks for the video tour


----------



## dbhost

*Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...*

So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?

Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…

I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…

Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
Step #15. Test fit router.
Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through. 
Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
Step #18. Reinstall door.
Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…

Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…

Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!


----------



## FatherHooligan

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...*
> 
> So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?
> 
> Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…
> 
> I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…
> 
> Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
> Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
> Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
> Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
> Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
> Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
> Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
> Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
> Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
> Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
> Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
> Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
> Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
> Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
> Step #15. Test fit router.
> Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through.
> Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
> Step #18. Reinstall door.
> Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
> Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…
> 
> Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…
> 
> Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!


Hmmm, your sequence of steps sounds frighteningly familiar LOL! I hope it works well for you, I have one of these buckets (a dog biscuit container originally) I currently use for my shop recycling bin….but it could easily be re-purposed for a DC for the router table…I'll be watching to see how well this works for you!


----------



## fredf

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...*
> 
> So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?
> 
> Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…
> 
> I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…
> 
> Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
> Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
> Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
> Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
> Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
> Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
> Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
> Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
> Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
> Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
> Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
> Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
> Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
> Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
> Step #15. Test fit router.
> Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through.
> Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
> Step #18. Reinstall door.
> Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
> Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…
> 
> Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…
> 
> Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!


4" suction = 12.58 sq inches
3/4 hole = .44 sq inches x 3 = 1.32 sq inches

You might want more holes to get adequate air flow . . . .

Another idea would be to tap off the 4" with a 2" od for a hose to the fence area to collect from the top side too


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...*
> 
> So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?
> 
> Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…
> 
> I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…
> 
> Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
> Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
> Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
> Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
> Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
> Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
> Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
> Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
> Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
> Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
> Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
> Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
> Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
> Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
> Step #15. Test fit router.
> Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through.
> Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
> Step #18. Reinstall door.
> Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
> Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…
> 
> Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…
> 
> Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!


Uh, 3 of those 3/4" holes actually, which by your math would be 3.36 sq inches. Still not huge, but I am also factoring in for air leaking in around the door, and the throat plate…. It won't be dead on, but I am pretty sure it will work. I have considered doubling the number of 3/4" holes in the side…


----------



## fredf

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...*
> 
> So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?
> 
> Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…
> 
> I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…
> 
> Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
> Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
> Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
> Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
> Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
> Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
> Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
> Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
> Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
> Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
> Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
> Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
> Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
> Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
> Step #15. Test fit router.
> Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through.
> Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
> Step #18. Reinstall door.
> Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
> Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…
> 
> Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…
> 
> Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!


no, actually. one hole = .44 sq inches; 3 holes = 1.32sq inches


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...*
> 
> So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?
> 
> Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…
> 
> I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…
> 
> Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
> Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
> Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
> Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
> Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
> Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
> Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
> Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
> Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
> Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
> Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
> Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
> Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
> Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
> Step #15. Test fit router.
> Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through.
> Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
> Step #18. Reinstall door.
> Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
> Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…
> 
> Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…
> 
> Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!


Eh, okay, Well I have presently 6 holes in it, no seal at the top, and nothing sealing the door. I should be fine with air intake, if not, I have a drill and can make more holes if need be…


----------



## dbhost

*Still playing with the kitty litter... tub.*

It's not much to look at so far, but it IS starting to take shape. Cutting the litter tub in a straight line with a box cutter wasn't quite as easy as I had thought it would be. It is however looking fairly promising as long as the port stays put!


----------



## dbhost

*Kitty litter tub under table router dust hood prototype pics...*

Sorry about the fugly "door". I am testing ideas, not execution here… The door with the duct taped hinge is just to close off the gaping hole to put the router in… But here are some pics of my progress so far…

If you look close enough, this time wasn't clear silicone, I had a mess of Alex Plus acrylic caulk left over from a bathroom job that just sort of blends right in, so I used it… The door / hinge are NOT permanent, nor is the hokey latch… Of course if I get super lazy, then it IS permanent. Who knows right? IF I decide to get un-lazy the frame I built yesterday will get screwed / caulked into place, a door made, and a latch / catch made for it… Gotta love putting scrap plywood to use!









I kept the run of flex hose short and sweet, but the table DOES move around from time to time, mostly from me bumping into it, so I wanted SOME flex here…









I know I need air make up holes so I don't suck the canister inside, or cause my Thien to scrub, I just hope these will be enough. If not hey, it's an old cat litter tub, who cares if I punch a mess of holes in it?









The KM12VC has NOT been test fitted yet. I am eager to see the results of that. I don't expect any problems though, this tub is plenty deep.

I know I could have, and I have seen lots of these made with bottom ports, I don't really care if dust piles up on the bottom, I wanted to reduce / eliminate elbows where I could…

If you have noticed a common theme in many of my dust collection projects recently, it has been reclaiming / recycling materials for use in these projects. These don't have to be show quality projects, just functional, so why spend what little free $$ I have for materials on something that I can do for cheap or free with as good, or better results?

I am getting kind of hooked on this recycling to build what I need thing, I am somewhat worried I might start fishing around for pallets and shipping crates for the lumber soon!


----------



## MarkColan

dbhost said:


> *Kitty litter tub under table router dust hood prototype pics...*
> 
> Sorry about the fugly "door". I am testing ideas, not execution here… The door with the duct taped hinge is just to close off the gaping hole to put the router in… But here are some pics of my progress so far…
> 
> If you look close enough, this time wasn't clear silicone, I had a mess of Alex Plus acrylic caulk left over from a bathroom job that just sort of blends right in, so I used it… The door / hinge are NOT permanent, nor is the hokey latch… Of course if I get super lazy, then it IS permanent. Who knows right? IF I decide to get un-lazy the frame I built yesterday will get screwed / caulked into place, a door made, and a latch / catch made for it… Gotta love putting scrap plywood to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kept the run of flex hose short and sweet, but the table DOES move around from time to time, mostly from me bumping into it, so I wanted SOME flex here…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I need air make up holes so I don't suck the canister inside, or cause my Thien to scrub, I just hope these will be enough. If not hey, it's an old cat litter tub, who cares if I punch a mess of holes in it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The KM12VC has NOT been test fitted yet. I am eager to see the results of that. I don't expect any problems though, this tub is plenty deep.
> 
> I know I could have, and I have seen lots of these made with bottom ports, I don't really care if dust piles up on the bottom, I wanted to reduce / eliminate elbows where I could…
> 
> If you have noticed a common theme in many of my dust collection projects recently, it has been reclaiming / recycling materials for use in these projects. These don't have to be show quality projects, just functional, so why spend what little free $$ I have for materials on something that I can do for cheap or free with as good, or better results?
> 
> I am getting kind of hooked on this recycling to build what I need thing, I am somewhat worried I might start fishing around for pallets and shipping crates for the lumber soon!


LOL! This is very inventive. It looks great, too!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Kitty litter tub under table router dust hood prototype pics...*
> 
> Sorry about the fugly "door". I am testing ideas, not execution here… The door with the duct taped hinge is just to close off the gaping hole to put the router in… But here are some pics of my progress so far…
> 
> If you look close enough, this time wasn't clear silicone, I had a mess of Alex Plus acrylic caulk left over from a bathroom job that just sort of blends right in, so I used it… The door / hinge are NOT permanent, nor is the hokey latch… Of course if I get super lazy, then it IS permanent. Who knows right? IF I decide to get un-lazy the frame I built yesterday will get screwed / caulked into place, a door made, and a latch / catch made for it… Gotta love putting scrap plywood to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kept the run of flex hose short and sweet, but the table DOES move around from time to time, mostly from me bumping into it, so I wanted SOME flex here…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I need air make up holes so I don't suck the canister inside, or cause my Thien to scrub, I just hope these will be enough. If not hey, it's an old cat litter tub, who cares if I punch a mess of holes in it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The KM12VC has NOT been test fitted yet. I am eager to see the results of that. I don't expect any problems though, this tub is plenty deep.
> 
> I know I could have, and I have seen lots of these made with bottom ports, I don't really care if dust piles up on the bottom, I wanted to reduce / eliminate elbows where I could…
> 
> If you have noticed a common theme in many of my dust collection projects recently, it has been reclaiming / recycling materials for use in these projects. These don't have to be show quality projects, just functional, so why spend what little free $$ I have for materials on something that I can do for cheap or free with as good, or better results?
> 
> I am getting kind of hooked on this recycling to build what I need thing, I am somewhat worried I might start fishing around for pallets and shipping crates for the lumber soon!


I don't know if this has been done by anyone else. But it just sort of seemed to make sense. I probably saw it somewhere a while ago and it just stuck with me. Who knows?


----------



## lilredweldingrod

dbhost said:


> *Kitty litter tub under table router dust hood prototype pics...*
> 
> Sorry about the fugly "door". I am testing ideas, not execution here… The door with the duct taped hinge is just to close off the gaping hole to put the router in… But here are some pics of my progress so far…
> 
> If you look close enough, this time wasn't clear silicone, I had a mess of Alex Plus acrylic caulk left over from a bathroom job that just sort of blends right in, so I used it… The door / hinge are NOT permanent, nor is the hokey latch… Of course if I get super lazy, then it IS permanent. Who knows right? IF I decide to get un-lazy the frame I built yesterday will get screwed / caulked into place, a door made, and a latch / catch made for it… Gotta love putting scrap plywood to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kept the run of flex hose short and sweet, but the table DOES move around from time to time, mostly from me bumping into it, so I wanted SOME flex here…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I need air make up holes so I don't suck the canister inside, or cause my Thien to scrub, I just hope these will be enough. If not hey, it's an old cat litter tub, who cares if I punch a mess of holes in it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The KM12VC has NOT been test fitted yet. I am eager to see the results of that. I don't expect any problems though, this tub is plenty deep.
> 
> I know I could have, and I have seen lots of these made with bottom ports, I don't really care if dust piles up on the bottom, I wanted to reduce / eliminate elbows where I could…
> 
> If you have noticed a common theme in many of my dust collection projects recently, it has been reclaiming / recycling materials for use in these projects. These don't have to be show quality projects, just functional, so why spend what little free $$ I have for materials on something that I can do for cheap or free with as good, or better results?
> 
> I am getting kind of hooked on this recycling to build what I need thing, I am somewhat worried I might start fishing around for pallets and shipping crates for the lumber soon!


Hey db, When the cat goes in there to do it's business and you flip the switch, I want to be there. lol


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Kitty litter tub under table router dust hood prototype pics...*
> 
> Sorry about the fugly "door". I am testing ideas, not execution here… The door with the duct taped hinge is just to close off the gaping hole to put the router in… But here are some pics of my progress so far…
> 
> If you look close enough, this time wasn't clear silicone, I had a mess of Alex Plus acrylic caulk left over from a bathroom job that just sort of blends right in, so I used it… The door / hinge are NOT permanent, nor is the hokey latch… Of course if I get super lazy, then it IS permanent. Who knows right? IF I decide to get un-lazy the frame I built yesterday will get screwed / caulked into place, a door made, and a latch / catch made for it… Gotta love putting scrap plywood to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kept the run of flex hose short and sweet, but the table DOES move around from time to time, mostly from me bumping into it, so I wanted SOME flex here…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I need air make up holes so I don't suck the canister inside, or cause my Thien to scrub, I just hope these will be enough. If not hey, it's an old cat litter tub, who cares if I punch a mess of holes in it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The KM12VC has NOT been test fitted yet. I am eager to see the results of that. I don't expect any problems though, this tub is plenty deep.
> 
> I know I could have, and I have seen lots of these made with bottom ports, I don't really care if dust piles up on the bottom, I wanted to reduce / eliminate elbows where I could…
> 
> If you have noticed a common theme in many of my dust collection projects recently, it has been reclaiming / recycling materials for use in these projects. These don't have to be show quality projects, just functional, so why spend what little free $$ I have for materials on something that I can do for cheap or free with as good, or better results?
> 
> I am getting kind of hooked on this recycling to build what I need thing, I am somewhat worried I might start fishing around for pallets and shipping crates for the lumber soon!


I am not really a cat person, but this one is pretty cool.. We live on a Bayou, and the rodents stay well away from us, so I'll keep her around. Anyway, she keeps my dog in line…


----------



## dbhost

*Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*

Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…









The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…









The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.









The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.









The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


----------



## longgone

dbhost said:


> *Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*
> 
> Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


Now your cats can be proud…just hope they don't decide to take a crap on your router table…


----------



## rivergirl

dbhost said:


> *Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*
> 
> Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


Your work is the cat's meow. (Couldn't help myself… )


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*
> 
> Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


OK, it looks OK. On an aesthetic scale of 1 to 10…...a 3. Sorry, but that is all we could muster. Kermit and I discussed it, I gave it 2, but Kermit gave it a 4, prejudiced, because Kermit is partial to cat haters. So it averaged a 3.

Since we couldn't measure function…......no comment.

However, to durability, well, it gets a 10…....anything put together with duct tape and a throwaway plastic bucket will last entirely longer than you want to…....most likely outlive the rest of the table. Easy to repair…...just another layer of tape. So you better like it, because it won't self destruct so that you can replace it. I know. I have made things like that. They never die…......

Jim and Kermit


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*
> 
> Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


You know the thought crossed my mind to simply wrap the whole thing in duct tape to give it that "Southern" look…

It wasn't meant to be pretty, it was meant to function well. I believe it should do that. My only concern is make up air, which I think I should have plenty…

You are right though. I finally got rid of an old 7 gallon bucket that originally held gear lube. I got it over 20 years ago, cleaned it up, and planted a rubber tree in it. Long story short, I purposely killed that rubber tree (it belonged to my ex wife, why should I even water her plants?) and the dumb thing has been sitting in my shop for 7 or so years empty… Just couldn't find a use for it so out it went!

Probably would have lasted another 20 years if I had kept it around!


----------



## rance

dbhost said:


> *Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*
> 
> Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


I love your ingenuity. Purrrrrrrrrrrrfect solution! Who cares what others think.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Kitty Litter Dust Shroud installed.*
> 
> Okay so I am not a huge fan of cats. But at least their stuff can be somewhat useful… And yeah I know it's not pretty, but it should work well…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table without the bucket installed. Note the location of the router table power switch. This is the reason for the location of the power cord hole…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The makeup air holes. Hopefully this SHOULD be enough. I will know soon! I am half tempted to punch a few more 3/4" holes in for makeup air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S&D PVC port held in with white latex caulk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The door complete with *********************************** hinge, and improvised latch and hole for power cord…


Well to say the least, I knew guys would be uh… scratching around to make wise cracks about this…


----------



## dbhost

*Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*










This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…

But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….

I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….

Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


I use my sweep a moderate amount. My biggest headaches are still the two big saws, although I have plans to upgrade the RAS dust collection, and the TS dust collection is a partially complete project….......waiting for the base for the project table to be done. The latter is a critical shop project with regard to housing the compressor and nail guns, and providing a safe base for my project table top with its slots, piers, etc. The saws throw sawdust in a corner furthest from my sweep, so I tend to just put the dust in a dust pan. Guess maybe I need another sweep…...huh.

Looks handy and well placed….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


My biggest sawdust headaches that are left are the sliding miter saw, the lathe, drill press, and hand held routing.

I am considering building a downdraft box for routing / sanding use to address that issue. The drill press I just haven't tried yet, but I figure a simple port on an adjustable clamp of some sort should do the trick. The sliding miter saw might just have to be tolerated until I can build a proper folding miter saw bench. I have a decent hood design done in cardboard right now, but translating that to wood really should take place at the same time I get rid of the silly B&D stand… That leaves the lathe. I am clueless here. I haven't even ever seen any more than half hearted attempts to collect dust at the lathe…


----------



## NBeener

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


It LOOKS great.

Since I've never seen one in use … how well does it pick up heavier bits-say …. a small chunk of a pretty dense hardwood … that you feed to it ??

The words "gaping maw" come to mind …. ;-)


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


There were some approx 1.25" triangular 3/4" walnut that got sucked up no problem, LOTS of stringy hand plane shavings (which is really what this will be most useful for!), and it appears a very thin (about 1/16" x 5" 3/4" wide slice of plywood that just didn't want to pass the 4" hole for some reason…

Yeah it works pretty well… It's not that tall, so I keep the opening space fairly reasonable size wise, and it seems to do the trick.


----------



## NBeener

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


Very cool. Thanks.

May I also offer-for consideration-a photoelectric eye (think: garage door opener) for curious, late-night mice ;-)


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


Only if it automatically turns the thing on and sucks them through the impeller…

Actually no rodent problems (any more). We did have an issue a few years back when the old airport behind us got turned into a subdivision, we have since added cats which seem to do a fabulous job of keeping the rodent population at bay…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


d-Con. Don't know what happens to the corpses….....but I never see live or dead mice anymore.

My DeDuster does wonders with hand held routing….......can't even see the sawdust as it gets sucked up…......

To the shop…..................


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


De duster… Will have to check the archives now…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Better late than never, the shop built floor sweep installed pic...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hot to cold to hot to cold weather has ended up leaving me feeling kind of under the weather…. So I spent some quality time with some hot tea and my pillow instead of shop time or posting pics here…
> 
> But there you guys go I promised to get a pic of the shop built floor sweep that I installed this weekend posted. It works pretty well, with a tendency to pull material from a good distance on the floor away from the opening. There is some large debris that got stuck under it because, well it was too wide to fit the 4" opening, no problem….
> 
> I will call this project a success, and move on down the line….
> 
> Those of you that are keen eyed observers may also notice I took the opportunity to reorganize my feather boards to advantage of what wall space I do have better. And yes those are stainless steel 102" CB whips with 6" springs. The mount point I was using on my truck's toolbox wasn't holding up at all well… I need to find a better place for it. (One and a spare). I mostly keep CB around to comply with 4×4 club rules. (All off road rigs in the club MUST have a 40 channel CB radio, mine is 40 with AM/SSB).


Left you and Neil a further explanation of the crazy beast…....

http://lumberjocks.com/jbertelson/blog/18852#comment-927333


----------



## dbhost

*Ripping the rotted masonite off, adding the Hardie siding...*

It's been a busy weekend. I managed to rip off the old rotting pine and Masonite siding and trim from around my garage doors, and replaced it with products from James Hardie. I also was finally able to properly install both 5" louvered vent ducts for the air conditioning.

I still need to replace the semi-round trim, caulk and prime it all up, install the door gaskets, and paint. I started caulking, and very quickly ran out of caulk….

My trip home from work tomorrow will include a quick trip to Home Depot for the trim, and a case of caulk. I obviously won't use a whole case of caulk on this job, but I have a LOT more re-caulking to get done…

I have to replace the sheetrock in this section, which is going to be interesting. I don't want to take the garage door rails loose to replace the rock there… But I need to get that off of there so I can spray in the expanding foam insulation…Eliminate drafts and heat gain there…

I test ran the A/C this evening after a full day of just relaxing for Easter, and found that even with the drafty doors, the draft through the center post is now eliminated, and the shop cools down FAST. Went from 84 deg F to 74 in 30 mins…

I am actually looking forward to being done with this, and being able to work in a nice comfortable shop this summer, that won't run me into the poor house to use!


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Ripping the rotted masonite off, adding the Hardie siding...*
> 
> It's been a busy weekend. I managed to rip off the old rotting pine and Masonite siding and trim from around my garage doors, and replaced it with products from James Hardie. I also was finally able to properly install both 5" louvered vent ducts for the air conditioning.
> 
> I still need to replace the semi-round trim, caulk and prime it all up, install the door gaskets, and paint. I started caulking, and very quickly ran out of caulk….
> 
> My trip home from work tomorrow will include a quick trip to Home Depot for the trim, and a case of caulk. I obviously won't use a whole case of caulk on this job, but I have a LOT more re-caulking to get done…
> 
> I have to replace the sheetrock in this section, which is going to be interesting. I don't want to take the garage door rails loose to replace the rock there… But I need to get that off of there so I can spray in the expanding foam insulation…Eliminate drafts and heat gain there…
> 
> I test ran the A/C this evening after a full day of just relaxing for Easter, and found that even with the drafty doors, the draft through the center post is now eliminated, and the shop cools down FAST. Went from 84 deg F to 74 in 30 mins…
> 
> I am actually looking forward to being done with this, and being able to work in a nice comfortable shop this summer, that won't run me into the poor house to use!


COOL, literally! Sounds like you are progressing, NO Sweat!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Ripping the rotted masonite off, adding the Hardie siding...*
> 
> It's been a busy weekend. I managed to rip off the old rotting pine and Masonite siding and trim from around my garage doors, and replaced it with products from James Hardie. I also was finally able to properly install both 5" louvered vent ducts for the air conditioning.
> 
> I still need to replace the semi-round trim, caulk and prime it all up, install the door gaskets, and paint. I started caulking, and very quickly ran out of caulk….
> 
> My trip home from work tomorrow will include a quick trip to Home Depot for the trim, and a case of caulk. I obviously won't use a whole case of caulk on this job, but I have a LOT more re-caulking to get done…
> 
> I have to replace the sheetrock in this section, which is going to be interesting. I don't want to take the garage door rails loose to replace the rock there… But I need to get that off of there so I can spray in the expanding foam insulation…Eliminate drafts and heat gain there…
> 
> I test ran the A/C this evening after a full day of just relaxing for Easter, and found that even with the drafty doors, the draft through the center post is now eliminated, and the shop cools down FAST. Went from 84 deg F to 74 in 30 mins…
> 
> I am actually looking forward to being done with this, and being able to work in a nice comfortable shop this summer, that won't run me into the poor house to use!


I just wish I were about 20 years younger. I don't remember jobs like this hurting so much back then…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Ripping the rotted masonite off, adding the Hardie siding...*
> 
> It's been a busy weekend. I managed to rip off the old rotting pine and Masonite siding and trim from around my garage doors, and replaced it with products from James Hardie. I also was finally able to properly install both 5" louvered vent ducts for the air conditioning.
> 
> I still need to replace the semi-round trim, caulk and prime it all up, install the door gaskets, and paint. I started caulking, and very quickly ran out of caulk….
> 
> My trip home from work tomorrow will include a quick trip to Home Depot for the trim, and a case of caulk. I obviously won't use a whole case of caulk on this job, but I have a LOT more re-caulking to get done…
> 
> I have to replace the sheetrock in this section, which is going to be interesting. I don't want to take the garage door rails loose to replace the rock there… But I need to get that off of there so I can spray in the expanding foam insulation…Eliminate drafts and heat gain there…
> 
> I test ran the A/C this evening after a full day of just relaxing for Easter, and found that even with the drafty doors, the draft through the center post is now eliminated, and the shop cools down FAST. Went from 84 deg F to 74 in 30 mins…
> 
> I am actually looking forward to being done with this, and being able to work in a nice comfortable shop this summer, that won't run me into the poor house to use!


Re the aches and pains, you ain't seen nothin' yet….........(-:

Every year brings a new pain, some years more than that.

I am going to forego the purchase of big power saws this trip at La Conner. But I need to put up some pegboard, so I am going to find a cheap dovetail saw or some such and see if I can cobble together some premade moldings. Want to end up with the equivalent of Dave Owen's mounting strip…..

http://lumberjocks.com/LakelandDave/blog/13794

Replaced a leaking sink sprayer yesterday, so I am getting enough tools together to do some things here, and that means they gotta get organized!

Glad to hear that AC issue is getting solved, it has been a long project for you.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Ripping the rotted masonite off, adding the Hardie siding...*
> 
> It's been a busy weekend. I managed to rip off the old rotting pine and Masonite siding and trim from around my garage doors, and replaced it with products from James Hardie. I also was finally able to properly install both 5" louvered vent ducts for the air conditioning.
> 
> I still need to replace the semi-round trim, caulk and prime it all up, install the door gaskets, and paint. I started caulking, and very quickly ran out of caulk….
> 
> My trip home from work tomorrow will include a quick trip to Home Depot for the trim, and a case of caulk. I obviously won't use a whole case of caulk on this job, but I have a LOT more re-caulking to get done…
> 
> I have to replace the sheetrock in this section, which is going to be interesting. I don't want to take the garage door rails loose to replace the rock there… But I need to get that off of there so I can spray in the expanding foam insulation…Eliminate drafts and heat gain there…
> 
> I test ran the A/C this evening after a full day of just relaxing for Easter, and found that even with the drafty doors, the draft through the center post is now eliminated, and the shop cools down FAST. Went from 84 deg F to 74 in 30 mins…
> 
> I am actually looking forward to being done with this, and being able to work in a nice comfortable shop this summer, that won't run me into the poor house to use!


On the A/C issue. When I initially installed it last summer, that is when I discovered the Masonite rot. I didn't have the $$ or time to fix it… Now I do, sort of… I have to admit I am not enjoying this economic downturn, but I am making the best of it. It really stinks going from 2 good incomes to 1, but keeping all the bills of 2, and then adding a dependent in the mix… But then again, it forces me to really reassess what is important, and to move forward with that, and junk the stuff that doesn't matter…


----------



## dbhost

*Keeping the outside out, and everything protected...*

I know this is in all honesty more home repair and improvement, but it had to be done in order to allow for my portable A/C unit. The only other option was to vent it directly to the attic, which would have been simply terrible.

So with the new siding in place, as well as the garage door trim, and seals, the caulking and painting is finished more or less. There are a couple of spots where the trim color bled through or found a way through the painters tape and newspaper and on to the main color, which I am temporarily out of… So at this time, there are about 5 small spots that need to be fixed still, but aside from that, I am extremely pleased with the quality of the job. Next up is to rip out the bad sheet rock from between the doors, and stuff insulation in the gap, before re-rocking it…

The roll of R19 that had been stashed in the attic has been pulled down, and sits in the shop right now waiting for installation. If I had thought about it when I had the wall apart, I guess I could have added the insulation prior to reinstalling the siding, but I absolutely had to replace the sheet rock. 27 years of hot / cold / dry / humid, not to mention bumped by ladders, bicycles, canoes, and building materials and tools of all sorts have simply taken their toll on the sheet rock out here.

As I go through this process, i know I will need to do the side walls eventually as well, especially if I want to insulate, I have so much mounted up my walls, that I really don't want to tear the stuff down, or move it away from the wall as I am already cramped… It is likely that I will build or buy a rolling clamp cart, as well as a rolling tool stacker, and perhaps a free standing tool shelf in order to free up the left wall, I can temporarily move my lumber rack to the front wall if I have a vertical tool shelf / cabinet that I can move my peg boarded stuff to…

It might just be easier to rent a POD, move my shop stuff in there except for what I need to do the walls, electrical, and floors, get those tasks done, and then move back in…

I am pretty sure that when I get home tonight, since i have the trim color all mixed up, and ready to go, that LOML will have some ideas for what else needs touched up. A fresh coat on the garage doors wouldn't hurt things for sure!


----------



## Cato

dbhost said:


> *Keeping the outside out, and everything protected...*
> 
> I know this is in all honesty more home repair and improvement, but it had to be done in order to allow for my portable A/C unit. The only other option was to vent it directly to the attic, which would have been simply terrible.
> 
> So with the new siding in place, as well as the garage door trim, and seals, the caulking and painting is finished more or less. There are a couple of spots where the trim color bled through or found a way through the painters tape and newspaper and on to the main color, which I am temporarily out of… So at this time, there are about 5 small spots that need to be fixed still, but aside from that, I am extremely pleased with the quality of the job. Next up is to rip out the bad sheet rock from between the doors, and stuff insulation in the gap, before re-rocking it…
> 
> The roll of R19 that had been stashed in the attic has been pulled down, and sits in the shop right now waiting for installation. If I had thought about it when I had the wall apart, I guess I could have added the insulation prior to reinstalling the siding, but I absolutely had to replace the sheet rock. 27 years of hot / cold / dry / humid, not to mention bumped by ladders, bicycles, canoes, and building materials and tools of all sorts have simply taken their toll on the sheet rock out here.
> 
> As I go through this process, i know I will need to do the side walls eventually as well, especially if I want to insulate, I have so much mounted up my walls, that I really don't want to tear the stuff down, or move it away from the wall as I am already cramped… It is likely that I will build or buy a rolling clamp cart, as well as a rolling tool stacker, and perhaps a free standing tool shelf in order to free up the left wall, I can temporarily move my lumber rack to the front wall if I have a vertical tool shelf / cabinet that I can move my peg boarded stuff to…
> 
> It might just be easier to rent a POD, move my shop stuff in there except for what I need to do the walls, electrical, and floors, get those tasks done, and then move back in…
> 
> I am pretty sure that when I get home tonight, since i have the trim color all mixed up, and ready to go, that LOML will have some ideas for what else needs touched up. A fresh coat on the garage doors wouldn't hurt things for sure!


DB, you could qualify to be a host on This Old House!!!

I feel like that a lot myself. Since I got more tools my wife is more tolerant of me learning some finer wwing skills, so at least I am not stuck in home repair all the time, but I get my share for sure and hey I enjoy having the right tools to do it.

Still she threatens that if I mumble about an idea she has, she will say she will go down into the shop and go through my stuff to do it herself. Of course I howl like a wounded animal and get it done, well most of the time anyway.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Keeping the outside out, and everything protected...*
> 
> I know this is in all honesty more home repair and improvement, but it had to be done in order to allow for my portable A/C unit. The only other option was to vent it directly to the attic, which would have been simply terrible.
> 
> So with the new siding in place, as well as the garage door trim, and seals, the caulking and painting is finished more or less. There are a couple of spots where the trim color bled through or found a way through the painters tape and newspaper and on to the main color, which I am temporarily out of… So at this time, there are about 5 small spots that need to be fixed still, but aside from that, I am extremely pleased with the quality of the job. Next up is to rip out the bad sheet rock from between the doors, and stuff insulation in the gap, before re-rocking it…
> 
> The roll of R19 that had been stashed in the attic has been pulled down, and sits in the shop right now waiting for installation. If I had thought about it when I had the wall apart, I guess I could have added the insulation prior to reinstalling the siding, but I absolutely had to replace the sheet rock. 27 years of hot / cold / dry / humid, not to mention bumped by ladders, bicycles, canoes, and building materials and tools of all sorts have simply taken their toll on the sheet rock out here.
> 
> As I go through this process, i know I will need to do the side walls eventually as well, especially if I want to insulate, I have so much mounted up my walls, that I really don't want to tear the stuff down, or move it away from the wall as I am already cramped… It is likely that I will build or buy a rolling clamp cart, as well as a rolling tool stacker, and perhaps a free standing tool shelf in order to free up the left wall, I can temporarily move my lumber rack to the front wall if I have a vertical tool shelf / cabinet that I can move my peg boarded stuff to…
> 
> It might just be easier to rent a POD, move my shop stuff in there except for what I need to do the walls, electrical, and floors, get those tasks done, and then move back in…
> 
> I am pretty sure that when I get home tonight, since i have the trim color all mixed up, and ready to go, that LOML will have some ideas for what else needs touched up. A fresh coat on the garage doors wouldn't hurt things for sure!


With any luck I will get to take pictures of my DIYer shop before the day is out. I too am doing some handyman work here in La Conner, currently painting up a replacement for a missing post cap on one of the balconies. It is amazing how many tools one needs to do a half decent job of anything, meaning hand tools. I have a Rigid circular saw and a jig saw. And three 12V Bosch drivers that I love, and a compressor with pin and brad nailer. I am tempted to replace my old Makita drivers at home with 12V Bosch ones. I have a set of 18V at home, but the 12V are just too convenient…................

Later….........


----------



## dbhost

*Can you fit 4" dust collection hose to 4" PVC S&D pipe? Yes you can!*

This is an older video I made to answer a question on Phil Thien's forum about if you can fit 4" DC hose to 4" S&D pipe. The answer is a quick and simple yes. The video was to prove it to doubters. I thought LJs might be interested so I am sharing it here!


----------



## djwong

dbhost said:


> *Can you fit 4" dust collection hose to 4" PVC S&D pipe? Yes you can!*
> 
> This is an older video I made to answer a question on Phil Thien's forum about if you can fit 4" DC hose to 4" S&D pipe. The answer is a quick and simple yes. The video was to prove it to doubters. I thought LJs might be interested so I am sharing it here!


Great video. I just purchased 6" PVC flex from Wynn Env, and I can report that it does fit (with a little effort), into an S&D 6" coupler fitting. I don't have any 6" S&D pipe yet to see if the Wynn flex will fit over it.


----------



## Ampeater

dbhost said:


> *Can you fit 4" dust collection hose to 4" PVC S&D pipe? Yes you can!*
> 
> This is an older video I made to answer a question on Phil Thien's forum about if you can fit 4" DC hose to 4" S&D pipe. The answer is a quick and simple yes. The video was to prove it to doubters. I thought LJs might be interested so I am sharing it here!


Thanks for the info. I sometimes join two pieces of 4" DC hose using either a coffee can (if you can find a metal one) or a tomato juice can. They are both approximately 4" is diameter.


----------



## dbhost

*Progress on the wide drum sander.*

I've mentioned it elsewhere, but like so many LJ's say, no pics, didn't happen…










This is what MDF scraps are useful for. My first couple of Thien separators were built on trash cans using MDF baffles, and plywood tops. I have since gone to hardboard baffles and reusing the drum lid. So I had to put that excess to use right?

The disks are 3/4" MDF cut into 3" disks using a cheapo HF hole saw set. I am anxious to get a much higher quality set, but these will do for now…

I will center drill them for the 1/2" rod, glue them up using the rod to align them, then epoxy the rod onto the whole assembly. Once that is done, I need to figure out a way to chuck it up to either the drill press or the lathe so that I can sand the burrs off and true it all up…

The entire thing is just under 18" long. My idea is to build a 16/32 sander, yes I think I am going to be crazy enough to try a cantilever frame. I have some ideas in Sketchup. I will hone them further as I gather materials. I have the basics down, but need to figure out adjustments for the table… This will likely be a multi year project…


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the wide drum sander.*
> 
> I've mentioned it elsewhere, but like so many LJ's say, no pics, didn't happen…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what MDF scraps are useful for. My first couple of Thien separators were built on trash cans using MDF baffles, and plywood tops. I have since gone to hardboard baffles and reusing the drum lid. So I had to put that excess to use right?
> 
> The disks are 3/4" MDF cut into 3" disks using a cheapo HF hole saw set. I am anxious to get a much higher quality set, but these will do for now…
> 
> I will center drill them for the 1/2" rod, glue them up using the rod to align them, then epoxy the rod onto the whole assembly. Once that is done, I need to figure out a way to chuck it up to either the drill press or the lathe so that I can sand the burrs off and true it all up…
> 
> The entire thing is just under 18" long. My idea is to build a 16/32 sander, yes I think I am going to be crazy enough to try a cantilever frame. I have some ideas in Sketchup. I will hone them further as I gather materials. I have the basics down, but need to figure out adjustments for the table… This will likely be a multi year project…


Looking forward to watching your drum sander progress, as I plan on making a drum sander (someday).

I'm curious about your hardboard baffles. How long have you been using your "new" baffles and how are they holding up. I'm about to build a Thien seperator for my HF 2HP DC and like the idea of a hardboard baffle.

Keep the progress posts coming!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the wide drum sander.*
> 
> I've mentioned it elsewhere, but like so many LJ's say, no pics, didn't happen…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what MDF scraps are useful for. My first couple of Thien separators were built on trash cans using MDF baffles, and plywood tops. I have since gone to hardboard baffles and reusing the drum lid. So I had to put that excess to use right?
> 
> The disks are 3/4" MDF cut into 3" disks using a cheapo HF hole saw set. I am anxious to get a much higher quality set, but these will do for now…
> 
> I will center drill them for the 1/2" rod, glue them up using the rod to align them, then epoxy the rod onto the whole assembly. Once that is done, I need to figure out a way to chuck it up to either the drill press or the lathe so that I can sand the burrs off and true it all up…
> 
> The entire thing is just under 18" long. My idea is to build a 16/32 sander, yes I think I am going to be crazy enough to try a cantilever frame. I have some ideas in Sketchup. I will hone them further as I gather materials. I have the basics down, but need to figure out adjustments for the table… This will likely be a multi year project…


I posted my project on that discussed the hardboard baffle 601 days ago. Aside from being somewhat dusty on the bottom, it's in the same shape as when I installed it. It's not like the baffle is put under a lot of stress…


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the wide drum sander.*
> 
> I've mentioned it elsewhere, but like so many LJ's say, no pics, didn't happen…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what MDF scraps are useful for. My first couple of Thien separators were built on trash cans using MDF baffles, and plywood tops. I have since gone to hardboard baffles and reusing the drum lid. So I had to put that excess to use right?
> 
> The disks are 3/4" MDF cut into 3" disks using a cheapo HF hole saw set. I am anxious to get a much higher quality set, but these will do for now…
> 
> I will center drill them for the 1/2" rod, glue them up using the rod to align them, then epoxy the rod onto the whole assembly. Once that is done, I need to figure out a way to chuck it up to either the drill press or the lathe so that I can sand the burrs off and true it all up…
> 
> The entire thing is just under 18" long. My idea is to build a 16/32 sander, yes I think I am going to be crazy enough to try a cantilever frame. I have some ideas in Sketchup. I will hone them further as I gather materials. I have the basics down, but need to figure out adjustments for the table… This will likely be a multi year project…


Great, thanks for the reply. Looks like a hardboard baffle is due to be built in the near future. I picked up theaded rod today, still need to get a 35 gallon plastic barrel, fittings and the like.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the wide drum sander.*
> 
> I've mentioned it elsewhere, but like so many LJ's say, no pics, didn't happen…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what MDF scraps are useful for. My first couple of Thien separators were built on trash cans using MDF baffles, and plywood tops. I have since gone to hardboard baffles and reusing the drum lid. So I had to put that excess to use right?
> 
> The disks are 3/4" MDF cut into 3" disks using a cheapo HF hole saw set. I am anxious to get a much higher quality set, but these will do for now…
> 
> I will center drill them for the 1/2" rod, glue them up using the rod to align them, then epoxy the rod onto the whole assembly. Once that is done, I need to figure out a way to chuck it up to either the drill press or the lathe so that I can sand the burrs off and true it all up…
> 
> The entire thing is just under 18" long. My idea is to build a 16/32 sander, yes I think I am going to be crazy enough to try a cantilever frame. I have some ideas in Sketchup. I will hone them further as I gather materials. I have the basics down, but need to figure out adjustments for the table… This will likely be a multi year project…


I would highly recommend getting a length of 5" hose, and some 5" split loc or similar HVAC pipe. Build your separator with 5" in and out and put your wye on the far side of the separator so that both 4" branches are serviced by the separator…

FWIW, I went with hardboard, because it seems to be holding up better in my environment than MDF (HIGH humidity…) Now that I think about it, I might have to rethink my drum… MDF and Houston metro aren't friends…


----------



## dbhost

*Now that the cabinets are up, the peg board is down...*

So I went ahead and installed the catches for the second clamshell cabinet, which freed me up to at last get rid of that old peg board. What a relief!










I have a couple of small storage projects left to do that I can glean enough good peg board out of this, and what is left over from the cabinet project that I won't need to buy peg board.

Now on to fixing all the little holes, and slapping some bright white paint on that wall!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Now that the cabinets are up, the peg board is down...*
> 
> So I went ahead and installed the catches for the second clamshell cabinet, which freed me up to at last get rid of that old peg board. What a relief!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a couple of small storage projects left to do that I can glean enough good peg board out of this, and what is left over from the cabinet project that I won't need to buy peg board.
> 
> Now on to fixing all the little holes, and slapping some bright white paint on that wall!


Go, go, go….........youse is getting there. Someday my shop area and the garage as well will get a complete makeover….......probably the next owner of the house. Very busy day yesterday in the hospital, 3 surgeries and a delivery. The rest of the week will be quieter.

I am done with the minibench, except that I decided to make a cord keep to store part or all of the cord. They will be 2 segments of large dowel, about an inch or so long, attached to the back of the bench at either end with a circular flange out of plywood. That will make it possible to also control the amount of cord that is loose for plugging into overhead drops (which I will make one day).

I am going to try to get enough pictures that I can write the blog and project posts while in La Conner (leaving this Friday for a week). Don't think I will get enough time before then.


----------



## dbhost

*Cleanup, and tool tuning..*

Sorry no pics, yet…

After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…

After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…

So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!

In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.

The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!

Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…

On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


Home in Anchorage, on call. I am making another shelf for my…...multipurpose bench…...I have changed the descriptive name, because minibench seems to mean other things to people. I have the compressor in it now, and I don't feel like I have to don ear muffs when it cycles. I am settup up the way the hose is corralled, so that I have a shelf for each of 3 nail guns, and 1 for the blower. It should be a pretty good set up. All four items are attached all the time.

I bought a Shopfox wood vise for the La Conner shop, but first I have to beef up the bench. Then install the vise. It is smaller, with 6 inch faces, I think, and an 8 inch spread. Should be fine for there. The ancient vise I have here is bigger, but not as good quality. Works well, however.

1/4 inch plywood, if the pieces aren't large won't need much bracing. Once you make something of it, with decent strength designed in, it is pretty rugged.

Have a good day, don't know how things will go this weekend. Sometimes I have lots of quiet time to get into the shop, like I did on Memorial Day weekend, other times not.

.......later..


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


If I get too annoyed with this HF vise, the replacement options are…

Shop Fox 9" Quick Release.
Groz 9" Quick Release.

I guess I could chuck the Anant 9" QR in there as well. Basically a 9" quick release vise under $100.00

I have 4 nailers / staplers that I need to house, but I really hadn't given any thought at all about housing the compressor there. Partially because I am starting to get the itch for a bigger compressor. 8 gallons of air runs out WAY too fast…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


I am just running a 6 gallon, but it cycles quite infrequently, especially with the pin and brad nailer, which don't seem to use much air. Those are the guns I use the most. I am not into house remodelling or big structural changes, so I don't have much need for a lot of air. The finish nailer does use a little more air, I notice. Used a lot of finish nails on the bench.

Off to bed, got to stay ahead of the curve when I am on call.

Tomorrow….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


My 8 gallon doesn't hardly cycle at all with the small guns. But the framing gun and my ratchet make it breathe hard…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


My principal use will always be the nail guns, at least that's my plan, so I don't need much of a compressor. You do different things…....like I might have many years ago….......


----------



## Gregn

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


Sounds like me, with that's good enough for now jobs that turn into time to do it right jobs. My proto types seem to turn into that do for now types.

I have a 15 gallon air compressor that I still use, but I got a 60 gallon when I discovered how much fun air is. Love using the air drill in the shop besides my nailers.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


Okay sitting down at my PC now, so I can type better. Stupid virtual keyboard on the phone is hard to type on.

My 8 gallon compressor does a good job for my small nailers, but my impact wrench, air hammer, air ratchet, die grinder, need more air. I also want o get into HVLP spraying. In the long run I would REALLY like a 60 gallon Ingersoll Rand 5HP compressor (or similar) but I will need more space, or to get even more creative with the space I do have…

I ended up with a good problem today. approx 65 bd ft of Black Walnut 4/4 for $150.00 off of Craigslist. However my racks are full of construction grade pine, not to mention curly maple and cherry. I need to rearrange my lumber racks, get this stuff acclimated to my shop, and start on a few projects to get ready for the holidays this year.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Cleanup, and tool tuning..*
> 
> Sorry no pics, yet…
> 
> After my clam shell cabinet builds, and ripping down the peg board, I realized I have "stuff" pretty much everwhere I looked, whether or not I wanted it. LOTS of cardboard I had been using for prototyping dust hood ideas, cut offs not in the cut off bin, and generally tools not put back where they belonged. It was time to get busy…
> 
> After LOTS of picking up, sweeping, and throwing out junk that shouldn't have been in the shop anyway, I made a discovery… Not all my dust hoses were fully connected… As could be attested to by the PILE of sawdust behind my table saw. It appears the hose slipped off of the blast gate, and just dangled in the air above the floor… My above table collection worked great still, but below table, was horrid, and since the bench is in the way, no real way of telling…
> 
> So I went ahead and reattached my hoses, this time running the clamp screw in with a ratchet & socket instead of a phillips head screwdriver. I am pretty sure those aren't going anywhere now!
> 
> In my rearranging / cleaning, I managed to move the lathe, band saw, and drill press back to where I had originally had them when I installed the dust collection. After 3 different moves, I have decided I like the work flow from these positions best.
> 
> The miter bench is being ignored for now. I have several ideas I am narrowing down, mostly cabinet grade plywood based designs. I am leaning HEAVILY toward a simple rolling cart, sized for the saw, to put the table at 38" off the floor (casters included) with flip up wings, fences, T tracks, production stops etc… I know the features I want to put in. Just ironing out specifics. The cabinet case underneath looks like a GREAT opportunity to provide storage for pnuematic tools. I need to figure out what can go there, I would HATE to waste that much space!
> 
> Ever since I bought my Pittsburg #94386 woodworking vise (Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release version), I haven't been happy with the faces, they were FAR from flat, or square…. So I spent some quality time with a large metal file truing up the faces of the vise. As of last night, side to side we were dead on, top to bottom we still were slightly top proud, by about .001", however natural racking of the vise takes care of the problem. I have a little more cleanup work to do on this before I hit this with some primer, and then I need to locate some close to matching hammer finish enamel paint for this thing. This is something I don't think I should have to put up with, and it DOES have the lifetime warranty, however, they don't sell a comparable model any more… It does work well, so truing it up was my best option…
> 
> On the Sliding Miter Saw dust hood design front, well, hard to explain, but the design I found that seems to work best is a sort of rectangular funnel, attached to the back bracket of the slide tubes, with a 4" port, It seems to catch more or less all of the dust off the saw… I am sure there are better ideas out there, but this is what I came up with to solve my problem… I now need to go from the cardboard prototype to a wooden build. To keep it light, I want to go with 1/4" ply, but that means I have to build out some sort of frame in order to support the thin material.


*dbhost*
Sounds like a good wood find, David. You might indeed due better with a bigger compressor. As noted, I don't do the things anymore that need one. I am also not into cars and machinery, so that need isn't there. I actually did a lot of minor stuff for cars and my motor home, but not anymore. As I said elsewhere, life compresses as you get older. You have to decide what you can do with the energy you have.

The multi-function bench is done. Probably overkill, but it will be used constantly. Only one thing it needs, some handles to move it, but that can be done at my leisure. Now got to do the dust collection for the table saw and the overhead guard…..then a break from shop stuff.

Have a good one, off to bed early again. Call has been pretty quiet, so got a fair amount of time in the shop so far. Will see how tomorrow goes.


----------



## dbhost

*Stealth gloat. New to me, NIB Central Machinery mortiser.*

After checking out the reviews, seeing the shortcomings of the HF mortiser, and comparing it to models from Steel City, Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and WoodRiver, I noted they all more or less stink in one way or another. Mostly the fences and hold downs are pitiful. Seeing how the HF fence works it is similar to others, better than some, but worse than most, so that is not really a factor. The hold downs on all of them I looked at stank. I would end up using clamps as hold downs no matter the machine, but budget screamed, so I left well enough alone, until…

Monday afternoon, a coworker, that I had traded some other equipment with at an earlier time had a need for a miter saw. I happened to have 3, 1 of which was my keeper (the slider), the other 2, my B&D Firestorm, and a Delta I picked up off of Craigslist free posting, that I cleaned up, and reassembled, got it working like new. I was going to sell it for $75.00, well he mentioned he had this mortiser he never opened, and wouldn't use, and would I like to swap…

Hey, I can look at this like it was free, or $75.00, but since that $75.00 never hit my wallet, I am going to call it free…

I know no pics, didn't happen, pics are forth coming. I didn't have the assembly finished last night. I did get it bolted solidly down to my strong tie bench next to the slider. the tables align nicely between the SCMS and the mortiser, I will need to do a tiny bit of shimming on the mortiser to get it dead level, but it is within 1/16", so not a huge deal…

Assembly instructions were typical of Harbor Freight tools, completely forgettable, and worthless. But once I figured out which direction to put the handle on, and how to assemble the fence (still not sure I have it right,which is why I don't have pics…) it went together okay. The table itself is just a basic piece of MDF, which will likely be replaced with hardboard topped BB ply just for my own sanity sake. The cheesy wood grain sticker on the MDF arrived chipped off in 2 spots. I would love a cast iron table, but view the OE table as sacrificial for through mortises.

I did get a test cut done, using 6" bar clamps to secure stock to the table and the fence, and I must say it cuts nice, has plenty of power, and is quiet…

The timing couldn't be better either. I have a couple of projects that are going to call for a LOT of mortises, and while this won't be the fastest machine to use, it is a TON faster than drilling / chiseling out my mortises by drill press / hand…

Pics coming soon, as soon as I figure out what way the stupid bracket for the fence goes on. It can go both ways, but either way seems screwy to me…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Stealth gloat. New to me, NIB Central Machinery mortiser.*
> 
> After checking out the reviews, seeing the shortcomings of the HF mortiser, and comparing it to models from Steel City, Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and WoodRiver, I noted they all more or less stink in one way or another. Mostly the fences and hold downs are pitiful. Seeing how the HF fence works it is similar to others, better than some, but worse than most, so that is not really a factor. The hold downs on all of them I looked at stank. I would end up using clamps as hold downs no matter the machine, but budget screamed, so I left well enough alone, until…
> 
> Monday afternoon, a coworker, that I had traded some other equipment with at an earlier time had a need for a miter saw. I happened to have 3, 1 of which was my keeper (the slider), the other 2, my B&D Firestorm, and a Delta I picked up off of Craigslist free posting, that I cleaned up, and reassembled, got it working like new. I was going to sell it for $75.00, well he mentioned he had this mortiser he never opened, and wouldn't use, and would I like to swap…
> 
> Hey, I can look at this like it was free, or $75.00, but since that $75.00 never hit my wallet, I am going to call it free…
> 
> I know no pics, didn't happen, pics are forth coming. I didn't have the assembly finished last night. I did get it bolted solidly down to my strong tie bench next to the slider. the tables align nicely between the SCMS and the mortiser, I will need to do a tiny bit of shimming on the mortiser to get it dead level, but it is within 1/16", so not a huge deal…
> 
> Assembly instructions were typical of Harbor Freight tools, completely forgettable, and worthless. But once I figured out which direction to put the handle on, and how to assemble the fence (still not sure I have it right,which is why I don't have pics…) it went together okay. The table itself is just a basic piece of MDF, which will likely be replaced with hardboard topped BB ply just for my own sanity sake. The cheesy wood grain sticker on the MDF arrived chipped off in 2 spots. I would love a cast iron table, but view the OE table as sacrificial for through mortises.
> 
> I did get a test cut done, using 6" bar clamps to secure stock to the table and the fence, and I must say it cuts nice, has plenty of power, and is quiet…
> 
> The timing couldn't be better either. I have a couple of projects that are going to call for a LOT of mortises, and while this won't be the fastest machine to use, it is a TON faster than drilling / chiseling out my mortises by drill press / hand…
> 
> Pics coming soon, as soon as I figure out what way the stupid bracket for the fence goes on. It can go both ways, but either way seems screwy to me…


Sounds free to me…........traded for something that was free…........of course, don't know what you put into the Delta miter saw.

Seems to me I saw a review of mortisers where Delta came out on top.

I am just putting some finishing touches on a project stand (elevator?) that I cobbled together to build the multifunction bench. Decided it was worth keeping, so just making it a little more stable and versatile. Then I will install a small vise on the multifunction bench, have the vise, from Veritas. It will be shoehorned into the end of the table, so the size was limited. As long as my back holds up, should get that done this weekend.

Think I will use some ancient left over prefinished oak flooring for the entry into the house from the garage. Probably use some oak veneer plywood with solid oak trim for the bench and the shoe rack. Think I will start working on that as I do some smaller shop projects that are not pressing.

Later….............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Stealth gloat. New to me, NIB Central Machinery mortiser.*
> 
> After checking out the reviews, seeing the shortcomings of the HF mortiser, and comparing it to models from Steel City, Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and WoodRiver, I noted they all more or less stink in one way or another. Mostly the fences and hold downs are pitiful. Seeing how the HF fence works it is similar to others, better than some, but worse than most, so that is not really a factor. The hold downs on all of them I looked at stank. I would end up using clamps as hold downs no matter the machine, but budget screamed, so I left well enough alone, until…
> 
> Monday afternoon, a coworker, that I had traded some other equipment with at an earlier time had a need for a miter saw. I happened to have 3, 1 of which was my keeper (the slider), the other 2, my B&D Firestorm, and a Delta I picked up off of Craigslist free posting, that I cleaned up, and reassembled, got it working like new. I was going to sell it for $75.00, well he mentioned he had this mortiser he never opened, and wouldn't use, and would I like to swap…
> 
> Hey, I can look at this like it was free, or $75.00, but since that $75.00 never hit my wallet, I am going to call it free…
> 
> I know no pics, didn't happen, pics are forth coming. I didn't have the assembly finished last night. I did get it bolted solidly down to my strong tie bench next to the slider. the tables align nicely between the SCMS and the mortiser, I will need to do a tiny bit of shimming on the mortiser to get it dead level, but it is within 1/16", so not a huge deal…
> 
> Assembly instructions were typical of Harbor Freight tools, completely forgettable, and worthless. But once I figured out which direction to put the handle on, and how to assemble the fence (still not sure I have it right,which is why I don't have pics…) it went together okay. The table itself is just a basic piece of MDF, which will likely be replaced with hardboard topped BB ply just for my own sanity sake. The cheesy wood grain sticker on the MDF arrived chipped off in 2 spots. I would love a cast iron table, but view the OE table as sacrificial for through mortises.
> 
> I did get a test cut done, using 6" bar clamps to secure stock to the table and the fence, and I must say it cuts nice, has plenty of power, and is quiet…
> 
> The timing couldn't be better either. I have a couple of projects that are going to call for a LOT of mortises, and while this won't be the fastest machine to use, it is a TON faster than drilling / chiseling out my mortises by drill press / hand…
> 
> Pics coming soon, as soon as I figure out what way the stupid bracket for the fence goes on. It can go both ways, but either way seems screwy to me…


The Delta miter saw got a lightly used cheap blade, ($24.00) and some extensive clean up / polish work with a $5.00 can of Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. The cheap blade was one I had from a prior table saw, that I hated (the blade, not the saw), it was an Irwin 80T, and was going to head to the trash if I didn't use it there. The Mother's I keep around to polish up the wheels on my truck…

The Delta did come out on top, due to a better designed hold down. In my book, it still stinks. Just not as bad as the others…

Actually, if I had to come up with the entire $$ for a new mortiser, I would have put my pennies aside for a new Shop Fox 3/4 HP mortiser. But for the price, too hard to pass up you know?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Stealth gloat. New to me, NIB Central Machinery mortiser.*
> 
> After checking out the reviews, seeing the shortcomings of the HF mortiser, and comparing it to models from Steel City, Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and WoodRiver, I noted they all more or less stink in one way or another. Mostly the fences and hold downs are pitiful. Seeing how the HF fence works it is similar to others, better than some, but worse than most, so that is not really a factor. The hold downs on all of them I looked at stank. I would end up using clamps as hold downs no matter the machine, but budget screamed, so I left well enough alone, until…
> 
> Monday afternoon, a coworker, that I had traded some other equipment with at an earlier time had a need for a miter saw. I happened to have 3, 1 of which was my keeper (the slider), the other 2, my B&D Firestorm, and a Delta I picked up off of Craigslist free posting, that I cleaned up, and reassembled, got it working like new. I was going to sell it for $75.00, well he mentioned he had this mortiser he never opened, and wouldn't use, and would I like to swap…
> 
> Hey, I can look at this like it was free, or $75.00, but since that $75.00 never hit my wallet, I am going to call it free…
> 
> I know no pics, didn't happen, pics are forth coming. I didn't have the assembly finished last night. I did get it bolted solidly down to my strong tie bench next to the slider. the tables align nicely between the SCMS and the mortiser, I will need to do a tiny bit of shimming on the mortiser to get it dead level, but it is within 1/16", so not a huge deal…
> 
> Assembly instructions were typical of Harbor Freight tools, completely forgettable, and worthless. But once I figured out which direction to put the handle on, and how to assemble the fence (still not sure I have it right,which is why I don't have pics…) it went together okay. The table itself is just a basic piece of MDF, which will likely be replaced with hardboard topped BB ply just for my own sanity sake. The cheesy wood grain sticker on the MDF arrived chipped off in 2 spots. I would love a cast iron table, but view the OE table as sacrificial for through mortises.
> 
> I did get a test cut done, using 6" bar clamps to secure stock to the table and the fence, and I must say it cuts nice, has plenty of power, and is quiet…
> 
> The timing couldn't be better either. I have a couple of projects that are going to call for a LOT of mortises, and while this won't be the fastest machine to use, it is a TON faster than drilling / chiseling out my mortises by drill press / hand…
> 
> Pics coming soon, as soon as I figure out what way the stupid bracket for the fence goes on. It can go both ways, but either way seems screwy to me…


As an aside, I just had a bunch of stuff I was writing completely disappear. Basically, I just have to write in an editor, and then copy and paste into LJ's, because if it is more than a paragraph long, I stand about a 20% or more I am going to lose all of it. What's with that?

For instance, if I put something in the posting box, and push escape, it all goes to lala land. Not any convention I am familiar with. Guess I expect everything to follow MS and Windows conventions, and I guess they don't.

OK, back to the mortiser….....now writing in the editor…....

I have not looked into buying a mortiser…because you have to do real projects to use those things…......(-:

But…...I have read a couple of the reviews here on LJ's and in my woodworking mags. It seems to me that one has to get one of the floor standing models to get the real deal, but I would never use one of those enough in a life time to make it worthwhile.

I am like you….never look a gift horse in the mouth…it is the principal of the thing. Like making a drill press stand out of an unused scroll saw stand. Not ideal, but not bad either. I have about 10 things to blog about, I am really delinquent.

Oh well, lets see what the HF mortiser will do. Remember to sharpen everything…..Neil had a good blog item about that…...

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/16460

The one link in there is dead, however…......

.........just resting after a morning of work, and then a delivery…..on my afternoon off yet….........

Later….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Stealth gloat. New to me, NIB Central Machinery mortiser.*
> 
> After checking out the reviews, seeing the shortcomings of the HF mortiser, and comparing it to models from Steel City, Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and WoodRiver, I noted they all more or less stink in one way or another. Mostly the fences and hold downs are pitiful. Seeing how the HF fence works it is similar to others, better than some, but worse than most, so that is not really a factor. The hold downs on all of them I looked at stank. I would end up using clamps as hold downs no matter the machine, but budget screamed, so I left well enough alone, until…
> 
> Monday afternoon, a coworker, that I had traded some other equipment with at an earlier time had a need for a miter saw. I happened to have 3, 1 of which was my keeper (the slider), the other 2, my B&D Firestorm, and a Delta I picked up off of Craigslist free posting, that I cleaned up, and reassembled, got it working like new. I was going to sell it for $75.00, well he mentioned he had this mortiser he never opened, and wouldn't use, and would I like to swap…
> 
> Hey, I can look at this like it was free, or $75.00, but since that $75.00 never hit my wallet, I am going to call it free…
> 
> I know no pics, didn't happen, pics are forth coming. I didn't have the assembly finished last night. I did get it bolted solidly down to my strong tie bench next to the slider. the tables align nicely between the SCMS and the mortiser, I will need to do a tiny bit of shimming on the mortiser to get it dead level, but it is within 1/16", so not a huge deal…
> 
> Assembly instructions were typical of Harbor Freight tools, completely forgettable, and worthless. But once I figured out which direction to put the handle on, and how to assemble the fence (still not sure I have it right,which is why I don't have pics…) it went together okay. The table itself is just a basic piece of MDF, which will likely be replaced with hardboard topped BB ply just for my own sanity sake. The cheesy wood grain sticker on the MDF arrived chipped off in 2 spots. I would love a cast iron table, but view the OE table as sacrificial for through mortises.
> 
> I did get a test cut done, using 6" bar clamps to secure stock to the table and the fence, and I must say it cuts nice, has plenty of power, and is quiet…
> 
> The timing couldn't be better either. I have a couple of projects that are going to call for a LOT of mortises, and while this won't be the fastest machine to use, it is a TON faster than drilling / chiseling out my mortises by drill press / hand…
> 
> Pics coming soon, as soon as I figure out what way the stupid bracket for the fence goes on. It can go both ways, but either way seems screwy to me…












Well, no pics didn't happen right? There's the pic…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Stealth gloat. New to me, NIB Central Machinery mortiser.*
> 
> After checking out the reviews, seeing the shortcomings of the HF mortiser, and comparing it to models from Steel City, Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and WoodRiver, I noted they all more or less stink in one way or another. Mostly the fences and hold downs are pitiful. Seeing how the HF fence works it is similar to others, better than some, but worse than most, so that is not really a factor. The hold downs on all of them I looked at stank. I would end up using clamps as hold downs no matter the machine, but budget screamed, so I left well enough alone, until…
> 
> Monday afternoon, a coworker, that I had traded some other equipment with at an earlier time had a need for a miter saw. I happened to have 3, 1 of which was my keeper (the slider), the other 2, my B&D Firestorm, and a Delta I picked up off of Craigslist free posting, that I cleaned up, and reassembled, got it working like new. I was going to sell it for $75.00, well he mentioned he had this mortiser he never opened, and wouldn't use, and would I like to swap…
> 
> Hey, I can look at this like it was free, or $75.00, but since that $75.00 never hit my wallet, I am going to call it free…
> 
> I know no pics, didn't happen, pics are forth coming. I didn't have the assembly finished last night. I did get it bolted solidly down to my strong tie bench next to the slider. the tables align nicely between the SCMS and the mortiser, I will need to do a tiny bit of shimming on the mortiser to get it dead level, but it is within 1/16", so not a huge deal…
> 
> Assembly instructions were typical of Harbor Freight tools, completely forgettable, and worthless. But once I figured out which direction to put the handle on, and how to assemble the fence (still not sure I have it right,which is why I don't have pics…) it went together okay. The table itself is just a basic piece of MDF, which will likely be replaced with hardboard topped BB ply just for my own sanity sake. The cheesy wood grain sticker on the MDF arrived chipped off in 2 spots. I would love a cast iron table, but view the OE table as sacrificial for through mortises.
> 
> I did get a test cut done, using 6" bar clamps to secure stock to the table and the fence, and I must say it cuts nice, has plenty of power, and is quiet…
> 
> The timing couldn't be better either. I have a couple of projects that are going to call for a LOT of mortises, and while this won't be the fastest machine to use, it is a TON faster than drilling / chiseling out my mortises by drill press / hand…
> 
> Pics coming soon, as soon as I figure out what way the stupid bracket for the fence goes on. It can go both ways, but either way seems screwy to me…


Let us know how it works, and any mods to make it work better. Just being aware of certain issues makes one look at purchases differently, or….....helps to rectify issues with tools we already have. I had my TS for nearly 20 years before I did anything to upgrade it, but now it is a markedly better saw than the one I naively bought decades ago.


----------



## dbhost

*LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*

I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…

Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…

Keep the shop in the existing garage.
Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…

Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it. 
Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…

So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Sounds like you hit pretty much everything. There is (likely) a sub-panel in your future with a standalone shop, and getting that service to your new building is either overhead (a pain) or buried (more pain). But that's reality.

What you've laid out above is an approach that says to me, pursue the permits / waiver etc. with the intent of moving forward with an outbuilding. It they go through, you've got a year to complete the work (at least around here; local ordinances may vary). If you're shot down re: permitting/waiver decisions, it means you're 'stuck' in the garage and the discussion would essentially end.

Good luck, let us know what you decide!


----------



## GregD

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Option #3: Move the household to a place out in Katy that has a 3 car garage, or a place south of town with a pole barn out back.

Just kidding.

Mine is a 2-1/2 car detached garage. It holds the wife's car, the lawnmower, my motorcycle, and my shop. It got cramped when I added a router table and band saw. Even so I'm pretty low on bench space. Actually, I'm low on space around the bench - it sits in a corner. If I'm doing anything significant I park the car in the drive. I would have space for another big tool (lathe) if I got rid of the motorcycle and/or the wife, but I'm rather fond of both of them. Sigh.

Seems to me I saw a magazine article about a professional woodworker that had his entire shop on wheels. When the wife was home her car was in the garage and his shop components rolled up against the walls. When she left for the day it took him about 10 minutes to pull everything out to its working position. And I've seen more than one article on someone that has only enough space to store their tools in their garage; everything gets rolled outside onto the drive when they are working with it.

Another approach is to get super-stingy about what you "spend" your shop space on. The fewer different kinds of projects you do, the better you can optimize your space to the remaining types of projects. It can be painful to limit yourself and also painful to carefully optimize your space, but your alternatives are kinda painful in other ways. And think of the impact on your relationship when you tell your wife that you are going to keep packing away your tools until she has the space she needs because, heck, they are nowhere near as important…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


I am sooooo not driving the Katy Freeway it's not funny… I wish funding was where I could afford to get out of the Bay Area and get somewhere like Alvin, Santa Fe, or even Pearland with a couple of acres…. The high cost of living close the water I guess…


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


dbhost, that is a tough one, I had already converted my garage before I got into wood working so my choice was easy, one thing you could try and I didn't say this but the word sneak comes to mind though trying to hide a build that size might be hard but the only thing what would happen is you'd get a flag on your door telling you to halt construction until you pull the permits. I also have a metal carport over my driveway so my truck is out of the weather, like Greg I also ride a harley but it's parked in the backyard on a covered deck in custom bike garage.


----------



## live4ever

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Let this be known as the day dbhost decided he needed, and committed to acting upon, a detached shop.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Gadzooks, that is a tough one. Seems to me we were working on this once before. I think you nixed an enlarged garage, and nowhere to put on an extra room anywhere on or in the house.


----------



## GregD

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Ooo, custom motorcycle garage! Sounds not too expensive and moving out my bike would significantly un-cramp my shop. No help for David though.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


GregD you are right about one thing, getting out of the thick of the suburbs, and into a more rural setting, would help out. LOML and I were driving out in Alvin yesterday and saw a nice little house for sale, complete with 4 car garage, and a small horse barn on what looks to be about 4 fenced acres… I can drool…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Pluses and minuses for rural living, especially if you are still working. I have done both, currently I am in the middle of town, and that is the best deal for me. Since I have the equivalent of a four car garage, 2 wide, 2 deep, I don't complain. In fact, it was one of the main reasons…....... no, it was the main reason, we sold our old house after living there only a year and a half. When we bought the first house here in Anchorage, there wasn't much available. I immediately missed having space for tools and the bench. There was no way to put a shop on that lot. So when we looked, we also looked closer to work, as well as for shop space. So we have lived here now for 26 years. Close to work, and decent shop area.

As I recall, I don't think you are willing to do any major construction on that home…....yes…no? Revisit the enlarged garage or an addition. Try some new thinking on it.

I have run underground wire more than once. It is not extremely difficult. Working with an electrician, doing part of it yourself and letting him inspect it and do the final connections sometimes works well, apparently.

But additions to the house add value to the house at resale time. Freestanding shops…......hard to move a big one. When you decide you are ready to buy a new house, perhaps in the country, the shop at the new place will probably be a no brainer. And you just leave the old shop behind and recoup your investment from the sale.

Oh…....and I notice the ads at the bottom of my page are pertinent to our discussion. They are getting pretty crafty here…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Expanding the existing garage is a hummdinger. I have 4 feet from the side of the house / garage to the property line, so I can't go that way, the other direction would cut into the front door / kitchen so that is a no go, and forward would eliminate the driveway, and the HOA wouldn't go for that in the slightest. So that leaves up… I have a single story home, with Cathedral Ceilings, and a 2 story garage on it would look very odd from the street. I *COULD* go through the whole thing of building the entire thing up to a full 2 story home, and probably take over where the master bedroom / bath is now as a double depth + extension to the shop, but that would have very diminishing returns. Average home value in my neighborhood is around $150,000.00, there is no sense i pouring $80K into upgrades that I won't see back…

Working the spreadsheets with LOML, showing her the cost difference between a 10×10 steel shed, which would be fine for lawn and garden, and household extras storage, and (I highballed it to give her sticker shock) a 12×20 9' ceiling gambrel barn is steering her in a more cost effective direction…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Here's hoping you can get something worked out. Remember you will need air conditioning in that shop, so you will need a substantial feed to it…...sounds like a subpanel.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Either way I go, I will have to do a subpanel… At least 60 amps. More likely 100.

I guess I could just go ahead and start in on doing the electrical and insulation work in the garage, and tell her it's at the point of no return… That may not go over very well, and doesn't solve a lot of the issues of her thinking it's a garage still…


----------



## Sarit

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Have you considered modular buildings?
I saw a guy on craigslist selling his shop which was just a modular building in a parking lot (not sure how he ran utilities). 
The advantages: 
-Fewer permits needed (prolly only for extending utilities)
-You can take it with you when you move
-Short to no construction time (you can also buy used)
-Stronger than typical stick framed buildings
Cons:
-Can be more expensive (depending on your shopping skills)
-Less choice in customization. More customization = more cost.
-Site may not have access for delivery of building.


----------



## Sarit

dbhost said:


> *LOML is wanting storage in the garage. May be time to rethink the whole shop arrangement.*
> 
> I know, I know, I've been gone from the blogging for a while now. Life has been happening, lots of stuff going on, not the least of which, my lovely bride is getting the itch to put the car in the garage, not to mention storage for household non perishable goods etc…
> 
> Time for rethinking the approach to my workshop… So let's look at the pros / cons of the options that are available to me…
> 
> Keep the shop in the existing garage.
> Pros. #1. It's already set up. #2. No need to pull building permits. #3. Reasonable, but not great space. My 2 car garage IS small. #4. Ductwork for portable A/C already out there. #5. Non car storage can be put into a small shed, meaning less $$ to spend.
> Cons. #1. LOML wants to store her car, and the freezer out there. #2. Other storage in the house has to end up in the attic. #3. Too easy for LOML to just wander out from the kitchen door and stop what I am doing to get on her schedule…
> 
> Move the shop to a dedicated outbuilding.
> Pros. #1. Completely separate building. Less LOML intrustion to feed the cats etc sort of thing… #2. Isolates the noise from the house better. (additional insulated walls, and some distance between the shop and the house). #3. Frees up the garage for vehicle and other misc storage. Frees up garage for LOML's potting / gardening tasks. No more potting soil on my jointer! #4. If built on skid foundation, can be moved when we move. Truly plug and play shop. #5. Totally dedicated space, no flower pots, tents, lawn mowers or coolers in there. #6. A gambrel barn design can give me loft storage for additional materials and less frequently used tools. #7. Smaller interior volume means less HVAC and air filtration needed. #8. New construction means I can build in energy efficient windows, insulation, radiant barriers and proper ventilation BEFORE I have to tear stuff out to add it.
> Cons. #1. Much more expensive to build out. And money is tight. However the plan otherwise still calls for a storage shed to keep lawn and garden stuff, as well as my woodworking / auto related flamables in. #2. Permits from the city building department. Staying in the garage means only having to pull an electrical permit. An outbuilding over 120 sq/ft means a building permit, AND an electrical permit. #3. MUCH less space. #5. Would need to rethink HVAC to insure ample floor space. #6. A 12×16 shed would be a big box in a little back yard. I have a deck back there that is 16×16, and it needs to go, so I am hoping freeing up that space will make the shed make more sense… #7. No matter where I place it, a shed that size would be in the direct line of sight from at least 2 of the back windows. #8. 12×16 footprint, and gambrel roof design would require special waiver from HOA Architectural Control Committee. Thankfully there is precedent within several hundred feet of my home that can be easily shown with Google Earth…
> 
> So those are the pros, and cons of each approach that I can think of. Anyone have any that I didn't consider?


Here is the CL ad I was talking about.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bfs/2710186302.html


----------



## dbhost

*Adding the library wing to the manor...*

Now I may have mentioned this before, but my collection of DIY, automotive, and woodworking books, magazines, and other misc publications is gobbling up space in the house, and not really where I need it. So a bit of inspiration came my way, and I decided to build a bookshelf for the shop, sideways, and mount it to the ceiling. Yeah floor space is priceless, but I have ceiling space that is unused…

So today, after work assuming everything has dried out enough, you see it rained like crazy here last night, but I digress, after work today, I head over to the BORG and pick up another 4×8 sheet of their "cabinet grade" sanded plywood that I have been building so many shop projects out of… The idea is a 16"x16"x6' open sided box, with 2 dividers. Construction will be simple locking rabbets, glue and screws, and the entire thing will be painted high gloss white to avoid darkening up the shop any.

Attachment is going to be directly through the panels / drywall into the studs with 3" #12 screws with fender washers to spread the load over a wider area. Not the prettiest, but plenty stout.

It's not much of a project to brag about, but it IS something that desperately needs to get done in order to provide storage for my stuff, and to buy some peace at home about where certain items are stored. Not to mention the next owner of the house might just like having a bit of overhead storage in the garage as I do NOT plan on taking this one with me. (However my clam shell cabinets are darned sure coming with me when I go!)

Will keep y'all posted on the progress…

Still looking for local help to install the sub panel / circuits and do the rock / insulation work… Any suggestions for how a not quite rich guy can get this done?


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Adding the library wing to the manor...*
> 
> Now I may have mentioned this before, but my collection of DIY, automotive, and woodworking books, magazines, and other misc publications is gobbling up space in the house, and not really where I need it. So a bit of inspiration came my way, and I decided to build a bookshelf for the shop, sideways, and mount it to the ceiling. Yeah floor space is priceless, but I have ceiling space that is unused…
> 
> So today, after work assuming everything has dried out enough, you see it rained like crazy here last night, but I digress, after work today, I head over to the BORG and pick up another 4×8 sheet of their "cabinet grade" sanded plywood that I have been building so many shop projects out of… The idea is a 16"x16"x6' open sided box, with 2 dividers. Construction will be simple locking rabbets, glue and screws, and the entire thing will be painted high gloss white to avoid darkening up the shop any.
> 
> Attachment is going to be directly through the panels / drywall into the studs with 3" #12 screws with fender washers to spread the load over a wider area. Not the prettiest, but plenty stout.
> 
> It's not much of a project to brag about, but it IS something that desperately needs to get done in order to provide storage for my stuff, and to buy some peace at home about where certain items are stored. Not to mention the next owner of the house might just like having a bit of overhead storage in the garage as I do NOT plan on taking this one with me. (However my clam shell cabinets are darned sure coming with me when I go!)
> 
> Will keep y'all posted on the progress…
> 
> Still looking for local help to install the sub panel / circuits and do the rock / insulation work… Any suggestions for how a not quite rich guy can get this done?


As long as it's functional Pat, that's all you need, good idea on painting it white, reflects the light more and lioke you I am forever thinking of ways to create storgae with sacraficing valuable floor space.

On this topic, I had a few days off work last week and spent them in the shop building storage and cabinets, I'll post you you pics for your perusal.

I heard you guys werer having snow??? in the past day or so?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Adding the library wing to the manor...*
> 
> Now I may have mentioned this before, but my collection of DIY, automotive, and woodworking books, magazines, and other misc publications is gobbling up space in the house, and not really where I need it. So a bit of inspiration came my way, and I decided to build a bookshelf for the shop, sideways, and mount it to the ceiling. Yeah floor space is priceless, but I have ceiling space that is unused…
> 
> So today, after work assuming everything has dried out enough, you see it rained like crazy here last night, but I digress, after work today, I head over to the BORG and pick up another 4×8 sheet of their "cabinet grade" sanded plywood that I have been building so many shop projects out of… The idea is a 16"x16"x6' open sided box, with 2 dividers. Construction will be simple locking rabbets, glue and screws, and the entire thing will be painted high gloss white to avoid darkening up the shop any.
> 
> Attachment is going to be directly through the panels / drywall into the studs with 3" #12 screws with fender washers to spread the load over a wider area. Not the prettiest, but plenty stout.
> 
> It's not much of a project to brag about, but it IS something that desperately needs to get done in order to provide storage for my stuff, and to buy some peace at home about where certain items are stored. Not to mention the next owner of the house might just like having a bit of overhead storage in the garage as I do NOT plan on taking this one with me. (However my clam shell cabinets are darned sure coming with me when I go!)
> 
> Will keep y'all posted on the progress…
> 
> Still looking for local help to install the sub panel / circuits and do the rock / insulation work… Any suggestions for how a not quite rich guy can get this done?


You may have me confused with someone else. I am in the coastal bend of Texas. While it has been cool, we are far from snow… Although we could use the precipitation, but if we had the snow the northeast is getting, Houston would shut down with a panic…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Adding the library wing to the manor...*
> 
> Now I may have mentioned this before, but my collection of DIY, automotive, and woodworking books, magazines, and other misc publications is gobbling up space in the house, and not really where I need it. So a bit of inspiration came my way, and I decided to build a bookshelf for the shop, sideways, and mount it to the ceiling. Yeah floor space is priceless, but I have ceiling space that is unused…
> 
> So today, after work assuming everything has dried out enough, you see it rained like crazy here last night, but I digress, after work today, I head over to the BORG and pick up another 4×8 sheet of their "cabinet grade" sanded plywood that I have been building so many shop projects out of… The idea is a 16"x16"x6' open sided box, with 2 dividers. Construction will be simple locking rabbets, glue and screws, and the entire thing will be painted high gloss white to avoid darkening up the shop any.
> 
> Attachment is going to be directly through the panels / drywall into the studs with 3" #12 screws with fender washers to spread the load over a wider area. Not the prettiest, but plenty stout.
> 
> It's not much of a project to brag about, but it IS something that desperately needs to get done in order to provide storage for my stuff, and to buy some peace at home about where certain items are stored. Not to mention the next owner of the house might just like having a bit of overhead storage in the garage as I do NOT plan on taking this one with me. (However my clam shell cabinets are darned sure coming with me when I go!)
> 
> Will keep y'all posted on the progress…
> 
> Still looking for local help to install the sub panel / circuits and do the rock / insulation work… Any suggestions for how a not quite rich guy can get this done?


The basic box with dividers is built. I the joinery is VERY simple, just butt joints / screws, oriented to provide the most rigid joints possible. I have a few more screws to drive, and then the french cleat system to build / install… I have started priming the box for paint, and am quickly realizing that I REALLY want a spray gun… This particular job of finishing stinks… But will be well worth it when I am done. 2 coats primer, with at least 2 coats of ceiling white paint to minimize the impact of the bookshelf on the lighting of the shop…

I did manage to utterly destroy 4 disposable brushes trying to paint this thing, and I have no clue how I am going to un bury my good brushes… I may just end up with a spray gun before next weekend just to get this job done!

I have test loaded my books / magazines, and discovered I only took up about half the space… This is by design. And hopefully it will take years to fill the rest of the space…


----------



## dbhost

*More work on the Library wing...*

So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.

The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.

The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.

I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…

With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…

I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.

Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


OK, the mystery bookcase. But I am not one to talk, I have about 5 blog/project items to present. I have been busy, off and on, in the shop. But October was a bear at work, and now I am on vacation. In La Conner since Thursday, and we got surprised by good weather instead of wall to wall rain. Just started sprinkling today. Off to Orlando, and the family marathon at Disney world and a Disney cruise. I will try to blog some of the trip…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


It will be up in photos soon… I promise… Just don't want to take pics of it half in primer…

I have that, and the Chrsitmas tree stand I am finishing up. I had one leg of the stand that I managed to shift alignment of during drilling for the pegs so I ended up having to shim / make a foot on one leg… Good thing this will be covered by a tree skirt!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


Re the tree stand…..sometimes it is about appearance, and sometimes about mechanics…......the tree stand is about mechanics…........(-:


----------



## sras

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


Good thing I read to the end - I was going to give you a request for pictures! I have the plywood sitting aside to do exactly the same thing. Time to get all the woodworking books out of the family room.

I'll be looking forward to your project posting - pics and all


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


It will be soon… I was far less accurate with things like screw placement and tear out due to the fact this is getting painted…


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


I always find that prepping the job for finishing and the actual finishing takes longer than the project.

I got to start enjoying that part of a build …..I will enjoy finishing…...I will enjoy finishing!

Look forwards to seeing the end result.


----------



## GregD

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


It's been my experience that stuff tends to stick to painted shelves. It isn't quite so bad if the paint has aged a bit (months to years), or if the stuff is lightweight and gets moved every couple of weeks. Printed paper surfaces not only like to stick, but also like to leave behind ink. Got any good ideas on how to prevent that?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


Good question… Shelf liner…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


My usual stuff, Watco, is not a good choice for a bookcase, unless it drys for a week or so. For many years I used a bookcase that my Dad had made in high school from oak, arts and crafts style. it got destroyed in a fire when my brother had it. It had a typical dark arts and crafts finish. He would have made it about 1915. I wish I had never given that to my brother…...but who expected his house to burn down? (many years ago).

I have made some pretty durable objects with multiple coats of spray can enamel.

Here at Disney World. My two middle daughters are here as well with their families, 3 kids each. They were here at our cabin (wilderness cabins) before we had our teeth brushed this morning. Now they are already off and running.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More work on the Library wing...*
> 
> So my idea was simple. Make a simple reinforced plywood cabinet, frameless, with the sole function of holding books and magazines in the shop.
> 
> The design was simpler still. a top and bottom panel cut to 12×72", a back panel cut to 16×72" 2 side panels cut to 16×12.75" all out of 23/32" cabinet grade ply, and then 2 divider panels cut to 12×14.5" centered 24" on each side made from 5/8" cheapie scrap ply. All of it simply butt jointed and screwed together with 2.5" screws.
> 
> The entire thing went together in less than 2 hours from deciding to actually get up off my butt, until the basic box was finally assembled.
> 
> I have a few screws left, some sanding where overdriving the screws caused some push out of the end plies, some filling, the french cleat setup, and lastly primer and paint… I originally intended to use just cheap contractor grade ceiling white paint, but I am leaning now more toward a high gloss white latex enamel for this cabinet, not so much for the light properties, but for ease of cleaning. Gloss paint tends to have a surface that is slicker than matte finishes, and should be easier to blow / wipe dust off of…
> 
> With the progress I am making, I should have this completed, and populated long before the weekend… Lord Willing I should have it ready to go. I do need to finish filling some nail holes, priming, and painting the wall that it will mount to, but that shouldn't take long at all…
> 
> I did notice that the height I intend to mount this at, it will be low enough I could use the top as a shelf, which would allow me to stash things like jigs and the like on top of it.
> 
> Before anyone nags me on this one. I am witholding photos until this is done. This will be posted as a project. Yes a very simple one, but a project no less..


Well. Due to the location of these, and the concern for the impact on lighting, I did opt for paint. I have the first coat of primer on it, and some bad areas that need to be sanded smooth are popping up… Depending on our client, I may have to work this weekend, or I may have a 4 day weekend. If I get the 4 day weekend the sanding / painting and perhaps even the french cleat and mounting will be done…

I am not too worried about stuff sticking to painted surfaces. I know that happens, especially in humid environments, and let's face it, my shop is a humid place, then again so is my house… The shelf liner stuff I am talking about is the same rubbery stuff they use for router mats. I have a couple of extra rolls from a kitchen project a few years back. Even if I can't find that, the Dollar store has the stuff…

In all honesty, this is more of a gift to LOML than a project for me. The more of my DIY / Woodworking / Auto stuff that can go in the shop, even books and magazines, will make her happier…

I need to get my magazines in those big collections like Wood Magazine did, where it was all on DVD… Shove the pdf files onto my file server / media server and be able to read them from anywhere. If I want to use a plan in the shop, just print out those specific pages…


----------



## dbhost

*The library progress thus far...*

Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?










It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


Yup, now it is for real…........(-:


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


Looking good so far Dave but you gotta pay the bills


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


I have slowly changed how I construct shop and other items. Quick and dirty used to rule the day. Then I found out that the objects I made, Q&D or not, survived "forever". So now I make the assumption that any thing I make will probably serve a purpose for many years. So I tend to finish them for current and future appearance. But of course, it is hard to speed up finishing….....unless you use Watco…....(-:

Some objects in the shop that are not handled or subject to wear I just give one coat of Watco, just for color. I don't use paint for shop objects much because it doesn't survive handling and denting. A bookshelf would be the exception, however. But I now sand and fill everything for appearance, and to limit splinters, especially with plywood.

So I am betting that set of shelves is a forever item….............

Running around Disney World with all the kids….......having fun…....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


Thanks…

I am planning on filling the screw hole countersinks. I probably should have done that prior to primer. Oops…

While the joinery was meant to be utilitarian, I am spending the time finding the flaws and fixing them, so my edges are all crisp, and clean, and the finish is intended to be bright. Think of it like a modern style TV console with no legs but add a french cleat.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


Gadzooks. I just noticed. My shop is a MESS… I need to spend some clean up time out there!


----------



## PurpLev

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


nice. looks like it DID happen 

since you do want to fill in the pocket holes and you haven't done so yet - how about filling them out with a contrasting color/wood to give it a design look (buttons)?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


I have plugged a lot of screw countersinks, but in an item like this a filler might be OK…...but I like PurpLev's idea of buttons better. That would be easy and finished, if your countersinks are right.

To be honest…...getting tired of Disney World, even though the kids and grand kids are great. So I will hang out a little tomorrow, and the following day we are aboard the ship…......

Later…...


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


Buttons not gonna happen. I already have the screw countersinks filled, no time to work on it this weekend, gratefully I should be able to get some time during the week. Sadly, probably not enough, but some…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The library progress thus far...*
> 
> Okay okay, no pics, didn't happen right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not much, but it IS big, and it is sized to be ideal for my books / magazines. The priming is coming along nicely, enough… This is coat #2. And I have noted a few minor problems… I have some more sanding to do, but we are really humming along. Or not… My long weekend is getting trimmed by work. Oh well, pay the bills right?


Got the top and sides painted with a couple of coats. Good, thick, not going anywhere for at least 20 years kind of stuff… Next up is to flip it over once it cures, and do the other side… Still haven't ripped the cleat yet… At this rate, New Years day will be passed by the time I get done with this…


----------



## dbhost

*Almost ready to finish up the library...*

I am now waiting for the final coat of paint to dry on the workshop library cabinet. I have the cleat ripped and ready to install, and am more than ready to put it to use…


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready to finish up the library...*
> 
> I am now waiting for the final coat of paint to dry on the workshop library cabinet. I have the cleat ripped and ready to install, and am more than ready to put it to use…


Can't have too much storage space - Rick Dennington has just posted a thread on storage for WS related reading material.

Be sure to post your photos when it's all finished and loaded up if you can.

Good luck


----------



## Rick Dennington

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready to finish up the library...*
> 
> I am now waiting for the final coat of paint to dry on the workshop library cabinet. I have the cleat ripped and ready to install, and am more than ready to put it to use…


+1 for what David (bluekingfisher) just posted on the pics. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.. Any storage, especially for books, magazines, plans, etc. will be a great help…keeps things up and out of the way and originized….thanks for posting on my thread….just trying to give ideas for such things….I posted a pic also of a cabinet that I built years ago just for that…...Glad I did…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready to finish up the library...*
> 
> I am now waiting for the final coat of paint to dry on the workshop library cabinet. I have the cleat ripped and ready to install, and am more than ready to put it to use…


Will do. I am actually planning on moving the bench out (after I clean the junk off of it) so I can get to the wall easier. I have some spot / hole filling to do, then prime / paint the wall before the cab can go up…

I am actually quite anxious. I am doing this a piece at a time, not the most efficient way to get things done, but with my time and budget constraints, this is about the only way I can get things done… And while I do fuss about budget, I must admit, I am blessed, very blessed. I am keenly aware that by American Standards, I am not wealthy, but by global standards I am filthy rich. So even when I feel like I am going too slow, I just have to remember that this woodworking hobby of mine is a luxury. There are folks around the world that do woodworking with nothing more than a makeshift carving knife…

Sorry, I digress… I recently came face to face with what a large chunk of the global population deals with, and it's not pretty…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready to finish up the library...*
> 
> I am now waiting for the final coat of paint to dry on the workshop library cabinet. I have the cleat ripped and ready to install, and am more than ready to put it to use…


Glad the project is essentially done. I had essentially no internet on board the cruise ship. Will not get much internet time till next weekend…...still in transit, now in Orlando.

.......and no question….we are pretty well off compared to much of the world….............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready to finish up the library...*
> 
> I am now waiting for the final coat of paint to dry on the workshop library cabinet. I have the cleat ripped and ready to install, and am more than ready to put it to use…


Made another major step today. Got the bench cleaned up, and moved away from the wall, and the box of wallboard mud came out of hiding and I cleaned the wall down, and filled the many various anchor holes… Once that dries, time to sand, prime and paint… Man this takes a long time!


----------



## dbhost

*The library is almost finished. Photos coming very soon...*

I know y'all want to see photos, you are just going to have to be patient for a couple more days… Today is going to be install day. In what free time I did have over the weekend, I took the opportunity to fill holes, prime and paint the wall that the library will be mounted on. Now mind you, I didn't bother with sanding down the patches all that well. It IS a garage after all… and most of the patches will be hidden behind the library, but it's done. Gone is the badly yellowed paint that has been on these walls since 1984, in place is a nice bright coat (2 coats actually) of Glidden Semi Gloss bright white base (no tint whatsoever). Tried to make it as easy as possible to match later.

Once the library is installed the strong tie bench gets put back in place, and a fairly large scale whole shop cleanup project will be undertaken with LOML's help, so it shouldn't take too long…

God willing and the creek don't rise this will be a short task, and photos will be pending tonight…

I still have to measure, mark, and cut the shelf liner for this cabinet, but I feel really good about it already…

My next project is going to be in the house, and involve drywall… You guys recall me mentioning the water heater stand I built a few weeks ago? Once the shop is clean, so I can get to my sheet goods, it's time to get to the sheet rock, and close that thing in, and trim it out… And of course paint the old part of the stand…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The library is almost finished. Photos coming very soon...*
> 
> I know y'all want to see photos, you are just going to have to be patient for a couple more days… Today is going to be install day. In what free time I did have over the weekend, I took the opportunity to fill holes, prime and paint the wall that the library will be mounted on. Now mind you, I didn't bother with sanding down the patches all that well. It IS a garage after all… and most of the patches will be hidden behind the library, but it's done. Gone is the badly yellowed paint that has been on these walls since 1984, in place is a nice bright coat (2 coats actually) of Glidden Semi Gloss bright white base (no tint whatsoever). Tried to make it as easy as possible to match later.
> 
> Once the library is installed the strong tie bench gets put back in place, and a fairly large scale whole shop cleanup project will be undertaken with LOML's help, so it shouldn't take too long…
> 
> God willing and the creek don't rise this will be a short task, and photos will be pending tonight…
> 
> I still have to measure, mark, and cut the shelf liner for this cabinet, but I feel really good about it already…
> 
> My next project is going to be in the house, and involve drywall… You guys recall me mentioning the water heater stand I built a few weeks ago? Once the shop is clean, so I can get to my sheet goods, it's time to get to the sheet rock, and close that thing in, and trim it out… And of course paint the old part of the stand…


Back from the mega family vacation, and trying to catch up. No usable internet on board the ship, so I is behind….......

Following along….....


----------



## dbhost

*The library is done!*

I posted a project up on it, but since the recent projects change, they no longer come up in chronological order… Oh well… That's okay. Take a peek at my project page http://lumberjocks.com/projects/56261

It's just a simple box with a couple of dividers, a cleat and a spacer to hold it to the wall, and plenty of paint to keep it from making the shop feel more crowded.

One thing I was VERY concerned about was the mortiser handle, which thankfully clears no problem at all…

I am now in panic design mode to try to get my SCMS dust collected for fear of having dusty books and magazines!

To top it all off. I actually got LOML to help me clean the shop up… I loved spending time with her in the shop…


----------



## Rick Dennington

dbhost said:


> *The library is done!*
> 
> I posted a project up on it, but since the recent projects change, they no longer come up in chronological order… Oh well… That's okay. Take a peek at my project page http://lumberjocks.com/projects/56261
> 
> It's just a simple box with a couple of dividers, a cleat and a spacer to hold it to the wall, and plenty of paint to keep it from making the shop feel more crowded.
> 
> One thing I was VERY concerned about was the mortiser handle, which thankfully clears no problem at all…
> 
> I am now in panic design mode to try to get my SCMS dust collected for fear of having dusty books and magazines!
> 
> To top it all off. I actually got LOML to help me clean the shop up… I loved spending time with her in the shop…


db,
See my comment on your project page that you posted in above….....


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The library is done!*
> 
> I posted a project up on it, but since the recent projects change, they no longer come up in chronological order… Oh well… That's okay. Take a peek at my project page http://lumberjocks.com/projects/56261
> 
> It's just a simple box with a couple of dividers, a cleat and a spacer to hold it to the wall, and plenty of paint to keep it from making the shop feel more crowded.
> 
> One thing I was VERY concerned about was the mortiser handle, which thankfully clears no problem at all…
> 
> I am now in panic design mode to try to get my SCMS dust collected for fear of having dusty books and magazines!
> 
> To top it all off. I actually got LOML to help me clean the shop up… I loved spending time with her in the shop…


......ditto….


----------



## dbhost

*Sliding Miter Saw Dust Hood. Success and failure...*

Over the weekend I cobbled together, out of scrap in my shop, a quick and dirty sliding compound miter saw dust hood.

Materials are cast off 3/16" tempered hardboard for the back and ramp, 5/8" Aracuo ply for the top and sides, screws, nails, and of course 4" S&D PVC.

I made a measurement error on the width, even after measuring 3x, and ended up about 1" too narrow. But I can slide it back and forth as I go all the way with miter cuts…

I still have to seal the port hole that the 4" went through, and am likely to swap the Ridgid vac hose for my Peachtree hose to make connection easier. I won't fee quite so bad about cutting the Peachtree hose…

It's a simple open box, with a shallow ramp that simply guides the junk to the port. No clue how well it is going to work, but it has to beat just the vac hose port…


----------



## Chipncut

dbhost said:


> *Sliding Miter Saw Dust Hood. Success and failure...*
> 
> Over the weekend I cobbled together, out of scrap in my shop, a quick and dirty sliding compound miter saw dust hood.
> 
> Materials are cast off 3/16" tempered hardboard for the back and ramp, 5/8" Aracuo ply for the top and sides, screws, nails, and of course 4" S&D PVC.
> 
> I made a measurement error on the width, even after measuring 3x, and ended up about 1" too narrow. But I can slide it back and forth as I go all the way with miter cuts…
> 
> I still have to seal the port hole that the 4" went through, and am likely to swap the Ridgid vac hose for my Peachtree hose to make connection easier. I won't fee quite so bad about cutting the Peachtree hose…
> 
> It's a simple open box, with a shallow ramp that simply guides the junk to the port. No clue how well it is going to work, but it has to beat just the vac hose port…


*Nice looking set up. I sure hope it works out good or you.

Those cut off saws sure throw the sawdust around.*


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Sliding Miter Saw Dust Hood. Success and failure...*
> 
> Over the weekend I cobbled together, out of scrap in my shop, a quick and dirty sliding compound miter saw dust hood.
> 
> Materials are cast off 3/16" tempered hardboard for the back and ramp, 5/8" Aracuo ply for the top and sides, screws, nails, and of course 4" S&D PVC.
> 
> I made a measurement error on the width, even after measuring 3x, and ended up about 1" too narrow. But I can slide it back and forth as I go all the way with miter cuts…
> 
> I still have to seal the port hole that the 4" went through, and am likely to swap the Ridgid vac hose for my Peachtree hose to make connection easier. I won't fee quite so bad about cutting the Peachtree hose…
> 
> It's a simple open box, with a shallow ramp that simply guides the junk to the port. No clue how well it is going to work, but it has to beat just the vac hose port…


Good job on the dust collector, i am about to start mine. I was thinking of having my air intake pipe come in from above with the angled ramps positioned vertically at either side of the incomng duct

I would be interested to hear if you have views on yours efficiency when t has been given a good enough test run.

David


----------



## dbhost

*Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*

Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…

Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…

Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.

Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)

Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.

Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.

Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all

Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…

Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.

Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.

Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…

Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.

Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.

At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


OPPS!! Stairs are supposed to be attached….I'll be right back!

That was close!

Seems I need help with my shop build. In between work on your shop…
How about stopping by my place and helping me get my basement shop in order? Lol.

Sounds like you have a solid action plan!
Remember *A failure to plan, is…...A plan to fail!*

Good luck with your shop rebuild.


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


Ok sounds like you are turning your already workshop garage into a workshop? You decided against the stand alone? I remember you saying that you had to fight your wife for space in the garage?

Edit In
Oop nevermind I Went back and read part #3


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


Blackie…

Budget and HOA restrictions are keeping me out of a stand alone building. I can probably argue the HOA restrictions though. They say no bigger than 10×12 with a 9' roof height, but every house around me except for the guy immediately to my east has a 12×16 with 12' or larger outbuilding in their back yards. The biggest is a 16×20 gambrel roof barn, and all of them passed the HOA with a waiver…

LOML is the one that suggested I keep the shop in the garage for security sake. It is tied in to the home security system including such sensors as a very protective shop dog… it has huge drawbacks though. A stand alone would be strongly preferrable if only to keep my sanity from LOML coming in and out while I am working… I love her like crazy, but sometimes she doesn't get the me time thing…


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


You'd at least need a minimum 12' x 16'. Story be told, though I don't live in an HOA we have city regulations along with deed restrictions, so I snuck mine in you know the ow saying it's better to ask for forgivness to to have ever asked at all? I played the dumb card "well if it's up on peer and beam then it's considered portable", WRONG! anything over 120 Sq feet you have to pull a permit. I was more then 3/4 way done with the build when the city came and slapped a halt work on my front door, someone turned me in. So none the less I headed down town to pull the permits only to get there and find out they would not give them to me due to the reason I was inside the easement, lucky I didn't put in on a concrete slab, I built new shoring, dad brought two 20' x 2" steel pipe over we jacked the building up slid 2×12s under each side laid the building back down on the pipe and with stakes and come-a-longs we rolled the building 5' in order to get it out of the easement, I didn't look at my plat, I just figured 5' would put me out of the easement but no, I have a 7.5' easement and the soffit had to be out too.


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


I saw somewhere, that a guy built his shed/shop as a trailer with wheels. No code/restrictions about storing a trailer on the property. That's one way to get around codes & restrictions.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


THAT's tempting…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


Youse is organized, and that will help a lot. It allows you to do it in easy to manage steps. My shop just kinda grew in its space. It is organized, but not particularly well planned. I do have some planning ideas for mine, but they will take a lot of time I don't have right now, so I suspect it will slowly mutate.


----------



## NBeener

dbhost said:


> *Hunting and gathering for electrical and insulation work.*
> 
> Okay, after meeting with the city code enforcement / permit office as well as a licensed electrician friend of mine, I am now in the phase of collecting the goodies to get the job done. Once the hardware and supplies are in hand, we will move forward with the project, and it will be done in steps…
> 
> Step #1. Remove everything from the east wall and ceiling of the shop, meaning all of the shop equipment gets pushed to the southmost and west most corner of the shop, leaving enough room for me to work on the south wall. I will have to do some squeezing, and I may have to for a SHORT period store a couple of the large tools in the guest room. I will leave the common wall in place, and the incandescent fixture in place sadly, that means there will only be a single 100W replacement CFL to light my shop while this work takes place, but I digress…
> 
> Step #2. Strip east and south walls as close to the bare studs as possible without disturbing the overhead door tracks.
> 
> Step #3. Remove attic stairs, and associated framing. Re-frame for larger, heavier duty attic stairs to accomodate my gravitational pull safely. (You'd be terribly frightened if you saw how my attic stairs are attached to the house!)
> 
> Step #4. With Electrician friend, mount sub panel, gang boxes, run wires, nail blocks and install outlets for the circuits, have everything ready for inspector and final connection / energizing.
> 
> Step #5. Get sign off by inspector and energize sub panel, or fix any issues inspector finds.
> 
> Step #6. Install insulation and sheet rock. No texture, just tape it, mud it, prime and paint it bright white. This is a garage workshop after all
> 
> Step #7. Install light fixtures. This is as good of a time as any to replace the T12s with T8s… But I have 2.5 cases of T12 bulbs, so not gonna happen yet…
> 
> Step #8. Mount up east wall fixtures. Specifically dust collection, clamshell cabinets, and associated shelves.
> 
> Step #9. Move everything from west to east wall. Stripping west wall of the lumber rack, tool stacker, and clamp racks.
> 
> Step #10 Strip west wall to the bare studs. There will be no electrical service on this wall, so no problem here…
> 
> Step #11. Insulate, re-rock, tape, mud, and paint west wall.
> 
> Step #12. Reinstall shop fixtures on west wall, specifically lumber rack, and tool stacker. A rolling clamp rack is in progress so I will not want the current clamp rack reused.
> 
> At this point, everything that is left on the floor can get shoved into a cargo trailer for a week or so while I strip, dry, then epoxy coat the floor prior to moving everything back in to the shop and setting back up.


This is too well planned and thought out.

Where's the whimsy ? Where's the sense of adventure ?

Oh, sure … stuff can still go wrong, but … nothing nearly as major, dramatic, or expensive.

You're no fun ;-)


----------



## dbhost

*A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*

The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…

I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…

This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.

First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).

Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!

The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…

Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


Great find!


----------



## davidmicraig

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


Nice score db. I like the base, looks like a nice lilttle filtered vacuum port there. Mine has a dust blower as well. Nice to put a little distance away from your blade so the cut line on the work isn't obscured by sawdust. As far as the blades go, my favorite ones are the reverse tooth because it doesn't matter which way I install the blade, the teeth are the same either way 

Congrats on the new tool,

David


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


I had an old Dremel that was made of sheet metal….....it might have been more useful as a vibrator. I bought it way back in the 70's. Think I finally gave it away. Yours looks much better made.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


Yeah… I was watching for a cast model. This thing runs like a sewing machine.


----------



## NBeener

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


Nice score !!!


----------



## oldreddog

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


Sweet find.


----------



## bfergie

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


I've got one very similar that I bought of my father-in-law several years ago. The only difference I see is mine has a lever at the back end of the arm to release the lock rather than the knob you have. I don't get much action on the blower tube.

It works well for me. I put a piece of carpet padding underneath it to dampen any vibrations, seems to help a lot.


----------



## NormG

dbhost said:


> *A Craigslist mini gloat, and one of the pieces of equipment I wasn't planning on but...*
> 
> The "wood" holiday decor that LOML loves so much falls apart after one or two seasons… And she wanted me to make better ones NOT made out of pressed cardboard… So I needed a scroll saw…
> 
> I tried to snatch up a Delta that looked good in the pics, but the owner never did respond to me, so I assume he sold it…
> 
> This morning, a quick check of CL showed an older Dremel 1671 2 speed saw, with a cast iron base, and cast (aluminum, but cast) table. It is good and dirty, but no real signs of wear. Just lots of storage crud, dust, etc… caked on to it… Well I picked it up for a measly $60.00, grabbed a couple of packs of Bosch blades, and brought it home, and tried it out.
> 
> First things first, it cuts great, when you put the blades in right (don't ask).
> 
> Not sure how the blower thing a ma jig works. Anyone that has one of these feel free to clue me in on that!
> 
> The plastics are a bit sun faded, but some Krylon and nice black is back on them, or at least getting there…
> 
> Anyway, here's the pics of it so far… The last pic is a good example of the nasty gunk I need to clean off of it…


Wonderful find


----------



## dbhost

*Uh oh... Where to put the scroll saw?*

Okay I admit it, I didn't exactly think this one 100% through…

You see, I have a "Tool Stacker" of sorts, that is basically a pair of Rubbermaid heavy duty closet shelf standards, and a series of 18" brackets, these in turn hold up my bench top tools that are mounted to 3/4" plywood mount boards (18" X 24"))...









I have my Ridgid Sander, Ryobi Planer, Sunhill Jointer, and Ryobi Grinder / Wolverine jig set up on this rig, and it utilizes wall space quite well with one slight problem…

I have no room for expansion… I can't go up because, well I am 1" below the garage door in the open position, and I can't go down, as the only place down, is the floor…

Now what can I do to fix this? I get to get creative here and find storage for this thing. It can't live its life just out on my bench top… I need to find stowage here… But where?


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Uh oh... Where to put the scroll saw?*
> 
> Okay I admit it, I didn't exactly think this one 100% through…
> 
> You see, I have a "Tool Stacker" of sorts, that is basically a pair of Rubbermaid heavy duty closet shelf standards, and a series of 18" brackets, these in turn hold up my bench top tools that are mounted to 3/4" plywood mount boards (18" X 24"))...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Ridgid Sander, Ryobi Planer, Sunhill Jointer, and Ryobi Grinder / Wolverine jig set up on this rig, and it utilizes wall space quite well with one slight problem…
> 
> I have no room for expansion… I can't go up because, well I am 1" below the garage door in the open position, and I can't go down, as the only place down, is the floor…
> 
> Now what can I do to fix this? I get to get creative here and find storage for this thing. It can't live its life just out on my bench top… I need to find stowage here… But where?


You could send your Ridgid sander for me to store for you, there by making room for your scroll saw! Just trying to help. Lol.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Uh oh... Where to put the scroll saw?*
> 
> Okay I admit it, I didn't exactly think this one 100% through…
> 
> You see, I have a "Tool Stacker" of sorts, that is basically a pair of Rubbermaid heavy duty closet shelf standards, and a series of 18" brackets, these in turn hold up my bench top tools that are mounted to 3/4" plywood mount boards (18" X 24"))...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Ridgid Sander, Ryobi Planer, Sunhill Jointer, and Ryobi Grinder / Wolverine jig set up on this rig, and it utilizes wall space quite well with one slight problem…
> 
> I have no room for expansion… I can't go up because, well I am 1" below the garage door in the open position, and I can't go down, as the only place down, is the floor…
> 
> Now what can I do to fix this? I get to get creative here and find storage for this thing. It can't live its life just out on my bench top… I need to find stowage here… But where?


Turn the grinder sidewise and fit it and the scrollsaw on the same shelf, pehaps enlarged a bit….............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Uh oh... Where to put the scroll saw?*
> 
> Okay I admit it, I didn't exactly think this one 100% through…
> 
> You see, I have a "Tool Stacker" of sorts, that is basically a pair of Rubbermaid heavy duty closet shelf standards, and a series of 18" brackets, these in turn hold up my bench top tools that are mounted to 3/4" plywood mount boards (18" X 24"))...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Ridgid Sander, Ryobi Planer, Sunhill Jointer, and Ryobi Grinder / Wolverine jig set up on this rig, and it utilizes wall space quite well with one slight problem…
> 
> I have no room for expansion… I can't go up because, well I am 1" below the garage door in the open position, and I can't go down, as the only place down, is the floor…
> 
> Now what can I do to fix this? I get to get creative here and find storage for this thing. It can't live its life just out on my bench top… I need to find stowage here… But where?


Might have a solution to this coming up. Please stand by…


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Uh oh... Where to put the scroll saw?*
> 
> Okay I admit it, I didn't exactly think this one 100% through…
> 
> You see, I have a "Tool Stacker" of sorts, that is basically a pair of Rubbermaid heavy duty closet shelf standards, and a series of 18" brackets, these in turn hold up my bench top tools that are mounted to 3/4" plywood mount boards (18" X 24"))...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Ridgid Sander, Ryobi Planer, Sunhill Jointer, and Ryobi Grinder / Wolverine jig set up on this rig, and it utilizes wall space quite well with one slight problem…
> 
> I have no room for expansion… I can't go up because, well I am 1" below the garage door in the open position, and I can't go down, as the only place down, is the floor…
> 
> Now what can I do to fix this? I get to get creative here and find storage for this thing. It can't live its life just out on my bench top… I need to find stowage here… But where?


Here are my options.
1. kitchen counter top. 
2. Craigs List
3. Jack Hammer under the shelving unit.
4. Shelf Pully system hanging it from the ceiling.


----------



## Nighthawk

dbhost said:


> *Uh oh... Where to put the scroll saw?*
> 
> Okay I admit it, I didn't exactly think this one 100% through…
> 
> You see, I have a "Tool Stacker" of sorts, that is basically a pair of Rubbermaid heavy duty closet shelf standards, and a series of 18" brackets, these in turn hold up my bench top tools that are mounted to 3/4" plywood mount boards (18" X 24"))...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Ridgid Sander, Ryobi Planer, Sunhill Jointer, and Ryobi Grinder / Wolverine jig set up on this rig, and it utilizes wall space quite well with one slight problem…
> 
> I have no room for expansion… I can't go up because, well I am 1" below the garage door in the open position, and I can't go down, as the only place down, is the floor…
> 
> Now what can I do to fix this? I get to get creative here and find storage for this thing. It can't live its life just out on my bench top… I need to find stowage here… But where?


1st, it needs to be a revolving lift pully system so you don't need to reach up high or down low… I mean bad back and all… that way you can actually double your shelves… won't be as high though, but the bottom shelve as it comes round the bottom can be nearly scrapping the ground

Failing that if I was in the states I could take a few of those tools off you hands and you would have heaps of room for your scroll saw…


----------



## dbhost

*Pnuematic improvements...*

I have been dealing with some stupid air system problems. Specifically I had leaks at critical junctions, and they were getting worse, and worse, and worse… Half my airflow seemed to be seeping out of 2 of my couplers. And I had wanted to do a little expanding of the system…

So a trip to Harbor Freight got me a bunch of the quick coupler setups, a 50' 3/8" polyurethane air hose, and a package of paint strainer cones.

Some quality time was in order to get all the components set up, so far I have the following setup…

2HP 8 Gallon Harbor Freight Air Compressor. 6 SCFM @ 40 PSI. Output pipe wrapped with 3 turns teflon tape->
Milton I/M quick coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF 50' 3/8" Polyurethane hose-> HF I/M Quick Coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF Air regulator / filter-> HF Quick Connector-> Milton I/M plug-> Hitachi 50' 3/8" Polyurethane air hose-> Husky I/M Quick Connector-> air tool…

So far I have been able to run 100% leak free with the following.

Blue Point 3/8" air ratchet, Ingersoll Rand air hammer, Blue Point 1/4" die grinder (this sucks the compressor empty FAST), HF Earthquake impact wrench, HF framing nailer, HF stapler / nailer, HF pin nailer, HF finish nailer, Husky conventional spray gun (1.5 SCFM @ 30 PSI), and a huge variety of blowers, siphons, tire chucks and misc bits and pieces…

One of the additions I have made is a I/M 3 way tap with 3 HF I/M couplers, and 1 HF I/M plug with a machined brass tee that has been sitting in my toolbox for the last 15 or so years…

I could use a bigger compressor, but space considerations not to mention power usage are critical. I would love a horizontal compressor instead of a vertical with about the same specs as the Central Pnuematic #68127 air compressor. The big thing is, it needs to fit under my stand I have for my dust collector. I could get rid of the Thien rig, but I need to stay smallish in case I ever wind up out in a shed instead of my garage…

Anyone have any suggestions for horizontal 30 gallon ish 110V compressors with decent flow?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Pnuematic improvements...*
> 
> I have been dealing with some stupid air system problems. Specifically I had leaks at critical junctions, and they were getting worse, and worse, and worse… Half my airflow seemed to be seeping out of 2 of my couplers. And I had wanted to do a little expanding of the system…
> 
> So a trip to Harbor Freight got me a bunch of the quick coupler setups, a 50' 3/8" polyurethane air hose, and a package of paint strainer cones.
> 
> Some quality time was in order to get all the components set up, so far I have the following setup…
> 
> 2HP 8 Gallon Harbor Freight Air Compressor. 6 SCFM @ 40 PSI. Output pipe wrapped with 3 turns teflon tape->
> Milton I/M quick coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF 50' 3/8" Polyurethane hose-> HF I/M Quick Coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF Air regulator / filter-> HF Quick Connector-> Milton I/M plug-> Hitachi 50' 3/8" Polyurethane air hose-> Husky I/M Quick Connector-> air tool…
> 
> So far I have been able to run 100% leak free with the following.
> 
> Blue Point 3/8" air ratchet, Ingersoll Rand air hammer, Blue Point 1/4" die grinder (this sucks the compressor empty FAST), HF Earthquake impact wrench, HF framing nailer, HF stapler / nailer, HF pin nailer, HF finish nailer, Husky conventional spray gun (1.5 SCFM @ 30 PSI), and a huge variety of blowers, siphons, tire chucks and misc bits and pieces…
> 
> One of the additions I have made is a I/M 3 way tap with 3 HF I/M couplers, and 1 HF I/M plug with a machined brass tee that has been sitting in my toolbox for the last 15 or so years…
> 
> I could use a bigger compressor, but space considerations not to mention power usage are critical. I would love a horizontal compressor instead of a vertical with about the same specs as the Central Pnuematic #68127 air compressor. The big thing is, it needs to fit under my stand I have for my dust collector. I could get rid of the Thien rig, but I need to stay smallish in case I ever wind up out in a shed instead of my garage…
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for horizontal 30 gallon ish 110V compressors with decent flow?


Out of my realm of expertise. I use a 6 gallon PC pancake at both my shops, but I don't think they are up to your needs. They work fine for my limited usage, but it sounds like you are really into air. Good luck with the quest….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Pnuematic improvements...*
> 
> I have been dealing with some stupid air system problems. Specifically I had leaks at critical junctions, and they were getting worse, and worse, and worse… Half my airflow seemed to be seeping out of 2 of my couplers. And I had wanted to do a little expanding of the system…
> 
> So a trip to Harbor Freight got me a bunch of the quick coupler setups, a 50' 3/8" polyurethane air hose, and a package of paint strainer cones.
> 
> Some quality time was in order to get all the components set up, so far I have the following setup…
> 
> 2HP 8 Gallon Harbor Freight Air Compressor. 6 SCFM @ 40 PSI. Output pipe wrapped with 3 turns teflon tape->
> Milton I/M quick coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF 50' 3/8" Polyurethane hose-> HF I/M Quick Coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF Air regulator / filter-> HF Quick Connector-> Milton I/M plug-> Hitachi 50' 3/8" Polyurethane air hose-> Husky I/M Quick Connector-> air tool…
> 
> So far I have been able to run 100% leak free with the following.
> 
> Blue Point 3/8" air ratchet, Ingersoll Rand air hammer, Blue Point 1/4" die grinder (this sucks the compressor empty FAST), HF Earthquake impact wrench, HF framing nailer, HF stapler / nailer, HF pin nailer, HF finish nailer, Husky conventional spray gun (1.5 SCFM @ 30 PSI), and a huge variety of blowers, siphons, tire chucks and misc bits and pieces…
> 
> One of the additions I have made is a I/M 3 way tap with 3 HF I/M couplers, and 1 HF I/M plug with a machined brass tee that has been sitting in my toolbox for the last 15 or so years…
> 
> I could use a bigger compressor, but space considerations not to mention power usage are critical. I would love a horizontal compressor instead of a vertical with about the same specs as the Central Pnuematic #68127 air compressor. The big thing is, it needs to fit under my stand I have for my dust collector. I could get rid of the Thien rig, but I need to stay smallish in case I ever wind up out in a shed instead of my garage…
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for horizontal 30 gallon ish 110V compressors with decent flow?


Jim,

My 8 gallon is barely adequate, and a lot of 20 gallon models do not have the flow I need.

Yes, I do use air a lot when I can get it… Hard to explain, but pnuematic tools have always been a favorite of mine…

I am seriously considering dropping the Thien separator for an inlet ring mounted baffle to free up the floor space, and then grab the Central Pneumatic I listed above, or a Husky 30 gallon upright… At that point though, I could go with a 220V 60 gallon, but I am leery of anything that isn't portable… I want to be able to wheel it to the yard, or throw it in my truck and take it to my father in laws place if need be…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Pnuematic improvements...*
> 
> I have been dealing with some stupid air system problems. Specifically I had leaks at critical junctions, and they were getting worse, and worse, and worse… Half my airflow seemed to be seeping out of 2 of my couplers. And I had wanted to do a little expanding of the system…
> 
> So a trip to Harbor Freight got me a bunch of the quick coupler setups, a 50' 3/8" polyurethane air hose, and a package of paint strainer cones.
> 
> Some quality time was in order to get all the components set up, so far I have the following setup…
> 
> 2HP 8 Gallon Harbor Freight Air Compressor. 6 SCFM @ 40 PSI. Output pipe wrapped with 3 turns teflon tape->
> Milton I/M quick coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF 50' 3/8" Polyurethane hose-> HF I/M Quick Coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF Air regulator / filter-> HF Quick Connector-> Milton I/M plug-> Hitachi 50' 3/8" Polyurethane air hose-> Husky I/M Quick Connector-> air tool…
> 
> So far I have been able to run 100% leak free with the following.
> 
> Blue Point 3/8" air ratchet, Ingersoll Rand air hammer, Blue Point 1/4" die grinder (this sucks the compressor empty FAST), HF Earthquake impact wrench, HF framing nailer, HF stapler / nailer, HF pin nailer, HF finish nailer, Husky conventional spray gun (1.5 SCFM @ 30 PSI), and a huge variety of blowers, siphons, tire chucks and misc bits and pieces…
> 
> One of the additions I have made is a I/M 3 way tap with 3 HF I/M couplers, and 1 HF I/M plug with a machined brass tee that has been sitting in my toolbox for the last 15 or so years…
> 
> I could use a bigger compressor, but space considerations not to mention power usage are critical. I would love a horizontal compressor instead of a vertical with about the same specs as the Central Pnuematic #68127 air compressor. The big thing is, it needs to fit under my stand I have for my dust collector. I could get rid of the Thien rig, but I need to stay smallish in case I ever wind up out in a shed instead of my garage…
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for horizontal 30 gallon ish 110V compressors with decent flow?


Understand. Actually, I really like the nail guns, air blower, and the tire inflator. But after that, I don't have much use for air. If I ever do any spraying, then that might change. You probably got into air doing automobile stuff, which is in your past as I recall.

Well, I'm at work, so back at it…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Pnuematic improvements...*
> 
> I have been dealing with some stupid air system problems. Specifically I had leaks at critical junctions, and they were getting worse, and worse, and worse… Half my airflow seemed to be seeping out of 2 of my couplers. And I had wanted to do a little expanding of the system…
> 
> So a trip to Harbor Freight got me a bunch of the quick coupler setups, a 50' 3/8" polyurethane air hose, and a package of paint strainer cones.
> 
> Some quality time was in order to get all the components set up, so far I have the following setup…
> 
> 2HP 8 Gallon Harbor Freight Air Compressor. 6 SCFM @ 40 PSI. Output pipe wrapped with 3 turns teflon tape->
> Milton I/M quick coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF 50' 3/8" Polyurethane hose-> HF I/M Quick Coupler-> HF I/M plug-> HF Air regulator / filter-> HF Quick Connector-> Milton I/M plug-> Hitachi 50' 3/8" Polyurethane air hose-> Husky I/M Quick Connector-> air tool…
> 
> So far I have been able to run 100% leak free with the following.
> 
> Blue Point 3/8" air ratchet, Ingersoll Rand air hammer, Blue Point 1/4" die grinder (this sucks the compressor empty FAST), HF Earthquake impact wrench, HF framing nailer, HF stapler / nailer, HF pin nailer, HF finish nailer, Husky conventional spray gun (1.5 SCFM @ 30 PSI), and a huge variety of blowers, siphons, tire chucks and misc bits and pieces…
> 
> One of the additions I have made is a I/M 3 way tap with 3 HF I/M couplers, and 1 HF I/M plug with a machined brass tee that has been sitting in my toolbox for the last 15 or so years…
> 
> I could use a bigger compressor, but space considerations not to mention power usage are critical. I would love a horizontal compressor instead of a vertical with about the same specs as the Central Pnuematic #68127 air compressor. The big thing is, it needs to fit under my stand I have for my dust collector. I could get rid of the Thien rig, but I need to stay smallish in case I ever wind up out in a shed instead of my garage…
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for horizontal 30 gallon ish 110V compressors with decent flow?


Yep. And I still do quite a bit of auto work… Another good reason to get a good compressor…

I tend to like working on big 4×4s, and those little pancake compressors just aren't beefy enough to cut the mustard filling up big mud tires…


----------



## dbhost

*Workshop library lessons learned. Use more screws and bigger cleats...*

Note to anyone wanting to use a French Cleat system to support anything with any reasonable amount of weight on it. Do NOT make 1.25" wide cleats that are only held on every other stud….

Just sayin'....

Now mine are 2" with 2 screws in every stud…. Woo Hoo!

And yes, I underbuilt this thing, not imagining I would ever have nearly as much weight on it as I ended up with, and yes I did something insanely stupid…

Somehow, with working one day out of my weekend, AND spending most of the day I did have off clothes shopping with my wife (it was next to Harbor Freight okay?) I actually managed to get more shop time in this weekend than I have managed in the past month… Of course the ceiling is still only half painted in the living room but that's for a different time…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Workshop library lessons learned. Use more screws and bigger cleats...*
> 
> Note to anyone wanting to use a French Cleat system to support anything with any reasonable amount of weight on it. Do NOT make 1.25" wide cleats that are only held on every other stud….
> 
> Just sayin'....
> 
> Now mine are 2" with 2 screws in every stud…. Woo Hoo!
> 
> And yes, I underbuilt this thing, not imagining I would ever have nearly as much weight on it as I ended up with, and yes I did something insanely stupid…
> 
> Somehow, with working one day out of my weekend, AND spending most of the day I did have off clothes shopping with my wife (it was next to Harbor Freight okay?) I actually managed to get more shop time in this weekend than I have managed in the past month… Of course the ceiling is still only half painted in the living room but that's for a different time…


I have pictures in my brain of a cabinet starting to lean as it pulls out the French cleat. Hope you caught it in time…........(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Workshop library lessons learned. Use more screws and bigger cleats...*
> 
> Note to anyone wanting to use a French Cleat system to support anything with any reasonable amount of weight on it. Do NOT make 1.25" wide cleats that are only held on every other stud….
> 
> Just sayin'....
> 
> Now mine are 2" with 2 screws in every stud…. Woo Hoo!
> 
> And yes, I underbuilt this thing, not imagining I would ever have nearly as much weight on it as I ended up with, and yes I did something insanely stupid…
> 
> Somehow, with working one day out of my weekend, AND spending most of the day I did have off clothes shopping with my wife (it was next to Harbor Freight okay?) I actually managed to get more shop time in this weekend than I have managed in the past month… Of course the ceiling is still only half painted in the living room but that's for a different time…


I did…

Note to self. Library cabinet top should NOT be used as another lumber rack shelf… Need I say more?


----------



## sillac

dbhost said:


> *Workshop library lessons learned. Use more screws and bigger cleats...*
> 
> Note to anyone wanting to use a French Cleat system to support anything with any reasonable amount of weight on it. Do NOT make 1.25" wide cleats that are only held on every other stud….
> 
> Just sayin'....
> 
> Now mine are 2" with 2 screws in every stud…. Woo Hoo!
> 
> And yes, I underbuilt this thing, not imagining I would ever have nearly as much weight on it as I ended up with, and yes I did something insanely stupid…
> 
> Somehow, with working one day out of my weekend, AND spending most of the day I did have off clothes shopping with my wife (it was next to Harbor Freight okay?) I actually managed to get more shop time in this weekend than I have managed in the past month… Of course the ceiling is still only half painted in the living room but that's for a different time…


Am I over building? My "cleats" are about 4 inches wide, and when I put up a cabinet I put 2, 3 inch screws through the cleat into each 2×6 stud on 16 in centers, that will be covered by the cabinet. I also screw through the back of the cabinet into the studs. If you look at my small parts cabinet that thing weighs a ton, well maybe that much, but some of the containers are over 20 lbs. I would hate to have to pick all the small parts off the floor and resort them.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Workshop library lessons learned. Use more screws and bigger cleats...*
> 
> Note to anyone wanting to use a French Cleat system to support anything with any reasonable amount of weight on it. Do NOT make 1.25" wide cleats that are only held on every other stud….
> 
> Just sayin'....
> 
> Now mine are 2" with 2 screws in every stud…. Woo Hoo!
> 
> And yes, I underbuilt this thing, not imagining I would ever have nearly as much weight on it as I ended up with, and yes I did something insanely stupid…
> 
> Somehow, with working one day out of my weekend, AND spending most of the day I did have off clothes shopping with my wife (it was next to Harbor Freight okay?) I actually managed to get more shop time in this weekend than I have managed in the past month… Of course the ceiling is still only half painted in the living room but that's for a different time…


No 2×6 studs available to screw into, just 2×4… Not sure you are over, or under building. I sized my cleats by some designs I had seen in shop notes. I thought it seemed flaky to me. I am about to rip out the cleats holding my tool cabs and re do them as well…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Workshop library lessons learned. Use more screws and bigger cleats...*
> 
> Note to anyone wanting to use a French Cleat system to support anything with any reasonable amount of weight on it. Do NOT make 1.25" wide cleats that are only held on every other stud….
> 
> Just sayin'....
> 
> Now mine are 2" with 2 screws in every stud…. Woo Hoo!
> 
> And yes, I underbuilt this thing, not imagining I would ever have nearly as much weight on it as I ended up with, and yes I did something insanely stupid…
> 
> Somehow, with working one day out of my weekend, AND spending most of the day I did have off clothes shopping with my wife (it was next to Harbor Freight okay?) I actually managed to get more shop time in this weekend than I have managed in the past month… Of course the ceiling is still only half painted in the living room but that's for a different time…


Yep, been there myself, in the nick of time. I think competancy can be measured by the number of mistakes you have made….......and then learned from. I don't even want to go into my world at work…..but it is somewhat similar….......(-:

.........the key part, is the learning…........


----------



## dbhost

*Fixing a stupid mistake.*

So yesterday, while I was changing the oil in my air compressor, I discovered the paint on the tank to my HF 2HP 8 gallon compressor was flaking off, all over, the handles, the brackets, the tank body itself, everywhere, now I don't really care about cosmetics, this is a Harbor Freight compressor after all, but I do want to prevent rust, so I HAD to do something…

Out came the sanders, knocking the flaking paint off, sanding it all smooth, meant that I had to remove certain components to gain access…

Well during the whole removal process I managed to forget the difference between right and left, and snapped my regulator body.

Now I could have gone back to Harbor Freight, gotten a $10.00 regulator, screwed it all back together and been good… But there are things about this compressor that have ticked me off since day one.

Like the stupid petcock valve that they use for the tank drain. It just doesn't work well… They used silicone sealant in the threads the seal the stupid thing, and an errant flap of silicone that is now in the tank tended to block the holes in the petcock at certain angles… So I managed to spend a few extra bucks, get some quality pieces, or at least better quality pieces and improve the function of my compressor…

I started by stripping the offending pieces off, sanding off any flaking, loose paint, or potentially loose paint, masking everything else off, priming and painting the tank using Duplicolor Universal Black Gloss. Now that it has cured in the 100 degree heat we have today, it is hard to tell it's not OEM… I don't care that i was in a hurry and had runs in the paint. It's a HF compressor. Anyone will think that's OEM!

Next I went about taking that dumb petcock valve out, cleaning the silicone out of the tank, and replacing it with a brass street elbow, treated with teflon tape, over to a 3" nipple, again teflon tape at both ends, and I ended up at a heavy duty brass ball valve to act as a dump valve. Sort of a miniature version of what we used in the auto repair world. 









Next I went about installing a Husky 200 PSI 1/4" regulator. The body is much smaller than the HF unit, but the build quality seems to be much higher. Ratings on this unit seem much higher too… The only drawback is the orientation for the flow direction puts the gauge on the wrong side of the tank, or it puts the knob pointing down the tank where I can't access it. I had to settle for pointing the gauge up, and the knob next to the OEM tank pressure switch / guague. It works pretty well there, I can fairly easily read both gauges when I need to. Some more teflon tape, a brass close nipple, a heavy duty ball valve, more teflon tape, and a Milton Quick connector complete the entire assembly. 


















Once I got it all together, I fired it up, ran it up to full pressure, and then regulated out to 90 PSI, which will go next down my HF Polyurethane hose to a second regulator with a filter / water separator, then on to my Hitachi Poly hose and to the tool in question.

The whole point for me for this weekend was to get some spraying done in the living room. I ended up trying to do the right thing by my compressor and OCD kicked in and here I am with diddly squat done projects wise. My wallet is around $50.00 lighter for a compressor that cost me about $80.00 new including the 2 year warranty, which putting that kind of funds into that sort of compressor seems dumb, but then again, this thing works VERY well now, and hey, if this sucker dies, I am stripping these good parts out of it and keeping them!


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Fixing a stupid mistake.*
> 
> So yesterday, while I was changing the oil in my air compressor, I discovered the paint on the tank to my HF 2HP 8 gallon compressor was flaking off, all over, the handles, the brackets, the tank body itself, everywhere, now I don't really care about cosmetics, this is a Harbor Freight compressor after all, but I do want to prevent rust, so I HAD to do something…
> 
> Out came the sanders, knocking the flaking paint off, sanding it all smooth, meant that I had to remove certain components to gain access…
> 
> Well during the whole removal process I managed to forget the difference between right and left, and snapped my regulator body.
> 
> Now I could have gone back to Harbor Freight, gotten a $10.00 regulator, screwed it all back together and been good… But there are things about this compressor that have ticked me off since day one.
> 
> Like the stupid petcock valve that they use for the tank drain. It just doesn't work well… They used silicone sealant in the threads the seal the stupid thing, and an errant flap of silicone that is now in the tank tended to block the holes in the petcock at certain angles… So I managed to spend a few extra bucks, get some quality pieces, or at least better quality pieces and improve the function of my compressor…
> 
> I started by stripping the offending pieces off, sanding off any flaking, loose paint, or potentially loose paint, masking everything else off, priming and painting the tank using Duplicolor Universal Black Gloss. Now that it has cured in the 100 degree heat we have today, it is hard to tell it's not OEM… I don't care that i was in a hurry and had runs in the paint. It's a HF compressor. Anyone will think that's OEM!
> 
> Next I went about taking that dumb petcock valve out, cleaning the silicone out of the tank, and replacing it with a brass street elbow, treated with teflon tape, over to a 3" nipple, again teflon tape at both ends, and I ended up at a heavy duty brass ball valve to act as a dump valve. Sort of a miniature version of what we used in the auto repair world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I went about installing a Husky 200 PSI 1/4" regulator. The body is much smaller than the HF unit, but the build quality seems to be much higher. Ratings on this unit seem much higher too… The only drawback is the orientation for the flow direction puts the gauge on the wrong side of the tank, or it puts the knob pointing down the tank where I can't access it. I had to settle for pointing the gauge up, and the knob next to the OEM tank pressure switch / guague. It works pretty well there, I can fairly easily read both gauges when I need to. Some more teflon tape, a brass close nipple, a heavy duty ball valve, more teflon tape, and a Milton Quick connector complete the entire assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got it all together, I fired it up, ran it up to full pressure, and then regulated out to 90 PSI, which will go next down my HF Polyurethane hose to a second regulator with a filter / water separator, then on to my Hitachi Poly hose and to the tool in question.
> 
> The whole point for me for this weekend was to get some spraying done in the living room. I ended up trying to do the right thing by my compressor and OCD kicked in and here I am with diddly squat done projects wise. My wallet is around $50.00 lighter for a compressor that cost me about $80.00 new including the 2 year warranty, which putting that kind of funds into that sort of compressor seems dumb, but then again, this thing works VERY well now, and hey, if this sucker dies, I am stripping these good parts out of it and keeping them!


Some very useful improvements and you will now having spent time stripping and tinkering will have a better working knowledge of this particular machine.

Perhaps the house didn't get the projects sorted out but at least the compressor got a make over


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Fixing a stupid mistake.*
> 
> So yesterday, while I was changing the oil in my air compressor, I discovered the paint on the tank to my HF 2HP 8 gallon compressor was flaking off, all over, the handles, the brackets, the tank body itself, everywhere, now I don't really care about cosmetics, this is a Harbor Freight compressor after all, but I do want to prevent rust, so I HAD to do something…
> 
> Out came the sanders, knocking the flaking paint off, sanding it all smooth, meant that I had to remove certain components to gain access…
> 
> Well during the whole removal process I managed to forget the difference between right and left, and snapped my regulator body.
> 
> Now I could have gone back to Harbor Freight, gotten a $10.00 regulator, screwed it all back together and been good… But there are things about this compressor that have ticked me off since day one.
> 
> Like the stupid petcock valve that they use for the tank drain. It just doesn't work well… They used silicone sealant in the threads the seal the stupid thing, and an errant flap of silicone that is now in the tank tended to block the holes in the petcock at certain angles… So I managed to spend a few extra bucks, get some quality pieces, or at least better quality pieces and improve the function of my compressor…
> 
> I started by stripping the offending pieces off, sanding off any flaking, loose paint, or potentially loose paint, masking everything else off, priming and painting the tank using Duplicolor Universal Black Gloss. Now that it has cured in the 100 degree heat we have today, it is hard to tell it's not OEM… I don't care that i was in a hurry and had runs in the paint. It's a HF compressor. Anyone will think that's OEM!
> 
> Next I went about taking that dumb petcock valve out, cleaning the silicone out of the tank, and replacing it with a brass street elbow, treated with teflon tape, over to a 3" nipple, again teflon tape at both ends, and I ended up at a heavy duty brass ball valve to act as a dump valve. Sort of a miniature version of what we used in the auto repair world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I went about installing a Husky 200 PSI 1/4" regulator. The body is much smaller than the HF unit, but the build quality seems to be much higher. Ratings on this unit seem much higher too… The only drawback is the orientation for the flow direction puts the gauge on the wrong side of the tank, or it puts the knob pointing down the tank where I can't access it. I had to settle for pointing the gauge up, and the knob next to the OEM tank pressure switch / guague. It works pretty well there, I can fairly easily read both gauges when I need to. Some more teflon tape, a brass close nipple, a heavy duty ball valve, more teflon tape, and a Milton Quick connector complete the entire assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got it all together, I fired it up, ran it up to full pressure, and then regulated out to 90 PSI, which will go next down my HF Polyurethane hose to a second regulator with a filter / water separator, then on to my Hitachi Poly hose and to the tool in question.
> 
> The whole point for me for this weekend was to get some spraying done in the living room. I ended up trying to do the right thing by my compressor and OCD kicked in and here I am with diddly squat done projects wise. My wallet is around $50.00 lighter for a compressor that cost me about $80.00 new including the 2 year warranty, which putting that kind of funds into that sort of compressor seems dumb, but then again, this thing works VERY well now, and hey, if this sucker dies, I am stripping these good parts out of it and keeping them!


Actually, I got to play a little bit with the sprayer. I can't prove anything scientifically, but it does seem to have slightly better air flow, which I can believe, the OEM ball valve hole was smaller than the diameter of the tube its in. The replacement is a straight through 1/4". Certainly not huge, not going to give me air flow numbers to brag about, but enough of an improvement that it is noticeable at the spray gun, which is where I wanted it in the first place.

If you go back through and re-read my review of my HF compressor, you may notice that I was particularly unhappy with the shut off / ball valve, and the pitiful petcock. Not sure if I ever mentioned the regulator as it worked well enough, sort of, but it wasn't very smooth in use. The replacement pieces fixed all my gripes that can be fixed without totally replacing the compressor with a CFM rating of 7 SCFM or better…. The rattling, buzzing noises the compressor made when pressuring up that came from the piece of junk OEM ball valve are LONG gone now. It's almost pleasant to use now!

I make no bones about it. I want a bigger, higher air flowing compressor. I have it narrowed down to 4. A Husky 30 gallon 110V 2HP, a Central Pnuematic 29 gallon 2HP 110V, a Craftsman 25 gallon Horizontal 1.9 HP 110V, or an Ingersoll Rand 30 gallon Horizontal 2HP 110/220V. My top pick is the IR, but it is at a premium I can't justify for a home workshop. And believe it or not, the Central Pnuematic has the best reviews. I have seen the Husky in question and it's not what Home Depot shows on their site, there was a major running production change, the Central Pneumatic out now is a MUCH better made compressor, and that is a sad statement to have to make… The Craftsman as well gets spotty reviews…

Mind you, I am going to eke out a few more projects with this little 8 gallon before I send it out to pasture, or more likely, donate it to the maintenance ministry at my church… It would be a good donation, and would keep me from having to deal with the hassles of selling such a cheap compressor.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Fixing a stupid mistake.*
> 
> So yesterday, while I was changing the oil in my air compressor, I discovered the paint on the tank to my HF 2HP 8 gallon compressor was flaking off, all over, the handles, the brackets, the tank body itself, everywhere, now I don't really care about cosmetics, this is a Harbor Freight compressor after all, but I do want to prevent rust, so I HAD to do something…
> 
> Out came the sanders, knocking the flaking paint off, sanding it all smooth, meant that I had to remove certain components to gain access…
> 
> Well during the whole removal process I managed to forget the difference between right and left, and snapped my regulator body.
> 
> Now I could have gone back to Harbor Freight, gotten a $10.00 regulator, screwed it all back together and been good… But there are things about this compressor that have ticked me off since day one.
> 
> Like the stupid petcock valve that they use for the tank drain. It just doesn't work well… They used silicone sealant in the threads the seal the stupid thing, and an errant flap of silicone that is now in the tank tended to block the holes in the petcock at certain angles… So I managed to spend a few extra bucks, get some quality pieces, or at least better quality pieces and improve the function of my compressor…
> 
> I started by stripping the offending pieces off, sanding off any flaking, loose paint, or potentially loose paint, masking everything else off, priming and painting the tank using Duplicolor Universal Black Gloss. Now that it has cured in the 100 degree heat we have today, it is hard to tell it's not OEM… I don't care that i was in a hurry and had runs in the paint. It's a HF compressor. Anyone will think that's OEM!
> 
> Next I went about taking that dumb petcock valve out, cleaning the silicone out of the tank, and replacing it with a brass street elbow, treated with teflon tape, over to a 3" nipple, again teflon tape at both ends, and I ended up at a heavy duty brass ball valve to act as a dump valve. Sort of a miniature version of what we used in the auto repair world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I went about installing a Husky 200 PSI 1/4" regulator. The body is much smaller than the HF unit, but the build quality seems to be much higher. Ratings on this unit seem much higher too… The only drawback is the orientation for the flow direction puts the gauge on the wrong side of the tank, or it puts the knob pointing down the tank where I can't access it. I had to settle for pointing the gauge up, and the knob next to the OEM tank pressure switch / guague. It works pretty well there, I can fairly easily read both gauges when I need to. Some more teflon tape, a brass close nipple, a heavy duty ball valve, more teflon tape, and a Milton Quick connector complete the entire assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got it all together, I fired it up, ran it up to full pressure, and then regulated out to 90 PSI, which will go next down my HF Polyurethane hose to a second regulator with a filter / water separator, then on to my Hitachi Poly hose and to the tool in question.
> 
> The whole point for me for this weekend was to get some spraying done in the living room. I ended up trying to do the right thing by my compressor and OCD kicked in and here I am with diddly squat done projects wise. My wallet is around $50.00 lighter for a compressor that cost me about $80.00 new including the 2 year warranty, which putting that kind of funds into that sort of compressor seems dumb, but then again, this thing works VERY well now, and hey, if this sucker dies, I am stripping these good parts out of it and keeping them!


You sound an awful lot like me…........

The only time my OCD with this type of thing has paid off is when I take a brand new machine, and modify it even beofore I use it. I did that with a moderate quality starter/charger, putting big heavy duty arctic cables on it, a heavy duty very long arctic cord and plug, and a cord keeper. I added a cigarette lighter socket in it for accessories. and replaced the flimsey bent metal handle with oak uprights and a piece of hardwood closet rod. Of course the wood parts were finished with WATCO….(-:

That is so I could put the battery clamps on the handle and be safe even if I cranked up the machine to run accessories. That was about 15 years ago, and it is still working like a champ. On the consumer versions of those things, the electronics are OK, but the hardware stinks, meaning the cables that connect to the battery, the handle, and the cord. You tend to use a starter/charger in the worst of weather, and it needs good hardware, at least in Alaska.

Sears used to do a fairly good job of upgrading basic items with attention to detail to make the item more robust. My gas grill is a Weber, but it came from Sears because they had upgraded a number of features. I put two extra big wheels on it so it will roll through the snow. Put the extra two wheels on before I even fired it up once. And I bought a very high quality cover for it from Weber, that protects the whole thing. That grill is pushing 20 years old and I still love the thing. I have replaced most of the innards, converted it to natural gas, and I intend to keep using it until I die, because I am pretty sure it will outlast me. And parts for it are still available.

Was on call this weekend, taking today off, so you have to suffer from my relaxing mind and wagging tongue…...as I wind down…....

Later…....


----------



## sb194

dbhost said:


> *Fixing a stupid mistake.*
> 
> So yesterday, while I was changing the oil in my air compressor, I discovered the paint on the tank to my HF 2HP 8 gallon compressor was flaking off, all over, the handles, the brackets, the tank body itself, everywhere, now I don't really care about cosmetics, this is a Harbor Freight compressor after all, but I do want to prevent rust, so I HAD to do something…
> 
> Out came the sanders, knocking the flaking paint off, sanding it all smooth, meant that I had to remove certain components to gain access…
> 
> Well during the whole removal process I managed to forget the difference between right and left, and snapped my regulator body.
> 
> Now I could have gone back to Harbor Freight, gotten a $10.00 regulator, screwed it all back together and been good… But there are things about this compressor that have ticked me off since day one.
> 
> Like the stupid petcock valve that they use for the tank drain. It just doesn't work well… They used silicone sealant in the threads the seal the stupid thing, and an errant flap of silicone that is now in the tank tended to block the holes in the petcock at certain angles… So I managed to spend a few extra bucks, get some quality pieces, or at least better quality pieces and improve the function of my compressor…
> 
> I started by stripping the offending pieces off, sanding off any flaking, loose paint, or potentially loose paint, masking everything else off, priming and painting the tank using Duplicolor Universal Black Gloss. Now that it has cured in the 100 degree heat we have today, it is hard to tell it's not OEM… I don't care that i was in a hurry and had runs in the paint. It's a HF compressor. Anyone will think that's OEM!
> 
> Next I went about taking that dumb petcock valve out, cleaning the silicone out of the tank, and replacing it with a brass street elbow, treated with teflon tape, over to a 3" nipple, again teflon tape at both ends, and I ended up at a heavy duty brass ball valve to act as a dump valve. Sort of a miniature version of what we used in the auto repair world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I went about installing a Husky 200 PSI 1/4" regulator. The body is much smaller than the HF unit, but the build quality seems to be much higher. Ratings on this unit seem much higher too… The only drawback is the orientation for the flow direction puts the gauge on the wrong side of the tank, or it puts the knob pointing down the tank where I can't access it. I had to settle for pointing the gauge up, and the knob next to the OEM tank pressure switch / guague. It works pretty well there, I can fairly easily read both gauges when I need to. Some more teflon tape, a brass close nipple, a heavy duty ball valve, more teflon tape, and a Milton Quick connector complete the entire assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got it all together, I fired it up, ran it up to full pressure, and then regulated out to 90 PSI, which will go next down my HF Polyurethane hose to a second regulator with a filter / water separator, then on to my Hitachi Poly hose and to the tool in question.
> 
> The whole point for me for this weekend was to get some spraying done in the living room. I ended up trying to do the right thing by my compressor and OCD kicked in and here I am with diddly squat done projects wise. My wallet is around $50.00 lighter for a compressor that cost me about $80.00 new including the 2 year warranty, which putting that kind of funds into that sort of compressor seems dumb, but then again, this thing works VERY well now, and hey, if this sucker dies, I am stripping these good parts out of it and keeping them!


Nicely done. I did the same thing for the drain on my vertical Craftsman compressor. Made a world of difference.

Sean


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Fixing a stupid mistake.*
> 
> So yesterday, while I was changing the oil in my air compressor, I discovered the paint on the tank to my HF 2HP 8 gallon compressor was flaking off, all over, the handles, the brackets, the tank body itself, everywhere, now I don't really care about cosmetics, this is a Harbor Freight compressor after all, but I do want to prevent rust, so I HAD to do something…
> 
> Out came the sanders, knocking the flaking paint off, sanding it all smooth, meant that I had to remove certain components to gain access…
> 
> Well during the whole removal process I managed to forget the difference between right and left, and snapped my regulator body.
> 
> Now I could have gone back to Harbor Freight, gotten a $10.00 regulator, screwed it all back together and been good… But there are things about this compressor that have ticked me off since day one.
> 
> Like the stupid petcock valve that they use for the tank drain. It just doesn't work well… They used silicone sealant in the threads the seal the stupid thing, and an errant flap of silicone that is now in the tank tended to block the holes in the petcock at certain angles… So I managed to spend a few extra bucks, get some quality pieces, or at least better quality pieces and improve the function of my compressor…
> 
> I started by stripping the offending pieces off, sanding off any flaking, loose paint, or potentially loose paint, masking everything else off, priming and painting the tank using Duplicolor Universal Black Gloss. Now that it has cured in the 100 degree heat we have today, it is hard to tell it's not OEM… I don't care that i was in a hurry and had runs in the paint. It's a HF compressor. Anyone will think that's OEM!
> 
> Next I went about taking that dumb petcock valve out, cleaning the silicone out of the tank, and replacing it with a brass street elbow, treated with teflon tape, over to a 3" nipple, again teflon tape at both ends, and I ended up at a heavy duty brass ball valve to act as a dump valve. Sort of a miniature version of what we used in the auto repair world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I went about installing a Husky 200 PSI 1/4" regulator. The body is much smaller than the HF unit, but the build quality seems to be much higher. Ratings on this unit seem much higher too… The only drawback is the orientation for the flow direction puts the gauge on the wrong side of the tank, or it puts the knob pointing down the tank where I can't access it. I had to settle for pointing the gauge up, and the knob next to the OEM tank pressure switch / guague. It works pretty well there, I can fairly easily read both gauges when I need to. Some more teflon tape, a brass close nipple, a heavy duty ball valve, more teflon tape, and a Milton Quick connector complete the entire assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got it all together, I fired it up, ran it up to full pressure, and then regulated out to 90 PSI, which will go next down my HF Polyurethane hose to a second regulator with a filter / water separator, then on to my Hitachi Poly hose and to the tool in question.
> 
> The whole point for me for this weekend was to get some spraying done in the living room. I ended up trying to do the right thing by my compressor and OCD kicked in and here I am with diddly squat done projects wise. My wallet is around $50.00 lighter for a compressor that cost me about $80.00 new including the 2 year warranty, which putting that kind of funds into that sort of compressor seems dumb, but then again, this thing works VERY well now, and hey, if this sucker dies, I am stripping these good parts out of it and keeping them!


Nice upgrades!!!
I need to do the same mod to the drain on my Husky 30 gallon vertical (oilless) compressor. Then I WILL empty it more often. Yeah right, we'll see about that!!!


----------



## dbhost

*Or in this case deconstruction to make way...*

The freezer is coming, the freezer is coming! Of course along with it is going to be the subpanel, circuits, and insulated garage walls I have been wanting for the last few years. This means that for me, I have to get busy.

I have a 9.5' chunk of wall, a 36" wide freezer, and a presently 8' long Simpson Strong Tie 2×4 and plywood workbench that holds my mortiser, sliding miter saw, and LOTS of misc garage storage. I MUST make a change to this layout. NOW. I am not particularly fond off this layout, and the bench length won't quite cut it. Not to mention the 24" table depth required a cobbled together extension for my miter saw to clear the rails. So it's not only shortening time, but also serious rethink time for the layout….

The challenges:

#1. This bench SHOULD match the width of the workshop library. I sized and installed the Library cabinet with the freezer location and size in mind.
#2. This bench SHOULD be a minimum of 30" deep to allow clearance of the SCMS rails. However the space in the shop it sits on is 24" deep and then has a lip that drops 3.25" and proceeds to slope downhill. The front legs will have to be 3" longer or so, AND have some sort of heavy duty leveller.
#3. This bench MUST be lower than the bottom of the library cabinet. FWIW, the Library Cabinet bottom is at 58.5" off the elevated part of the floor, again the floor slopes. but the library is levelled, so levellers required on the back legs too.
#4. This bench must provide organized storage, and workspace for my Chicago Electric 12" SCMS, Central Machinery Mortising Machine and bits, as well as provide effective, or at least as effective as can be expected dust collection for the SCMS.
#5. This bench must provide organized storage replacement for 4 large Rubbermaid Totes worth of stuff. This stuff includes, temporarily until a proper workstation is built, storage for all of my table saw, and router bits, blades, jigs, and accessories, painting, drywall, plumbing and other home repair misc tools and supplies that do not fit in my Craftsman Roll around tool cart.

One of these totes is nearly FULL of 16 or 14 ga outdoor extension cords and is primarily used for outdoor lighting. It can probably be stowed in the attic along with the inflatable reindeer…

Well after spending a bit of quality time with "Trimble" Sketchup last night (not thrilled about that but oh well…) I decided it was time to start the tear out…

Step #1. Disconnect the DC ducting from the existing dust hood. 
Step #2. Put the B&D miter saw stand back up by the shop overhead door. 
Step #3. Move the SCMS to the B&D miter saw stand, secure it down.
Step #4. Remember why I retired the B&D stand in the first place…
Step #5. Unbolt mortiser from bench, set mortiser and accessories aside for safe keeping.
Step #6. Remove original dust hood and disassemble, placing what stock is recycleable back in the lumber racks. 
Step #7. Realize I forgot to turn the A/C or fan on and it's over 100 deg F. Utter words small children should not hear, go inside for a beer and hang it up for the night…

More to come on this one, but needless to say, these builds are going to take me a while. I am weaseling them in between working on the house in general. This one has GOT to take priority over the drum sander though as I need to make room for that freezer in order to get my sub panel. A little deal LOML and I ironed out… While I am on this build, I am also planning on building the mobile base cabinet for my drill press and drilling accessories. I have been wanting to hold out for the hole saw set I have been wanting, but that is a few more bucks than I want to spend. I have the case size down now so I am good for the cabinet build. I just wanted to insure I had enough space in the drawers to fit the cases I want… I have a good selection of bits and accessories that I need to store, and my current storage shelf is just overrun.

I am more than slightly tempted to put the mortiser back, make all my cuts, and rig this whole thing using M&T joinery just for the practice, but I dread the idea of cutting tenons on over 5 foot long stock!


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Or in this case deconstruction to make way...*
> 
> The freezer is coming, the freezer is coming! Of course along with it is going to be the subpanel, circuits, and insulated garage walls I have been wanting for the last few years. This means that for me, I have to get busy.
> 
> I have a 9.5' chunk of wall, a 36" wide freezer, and a presently 8' long Simpson Strong Tie 2×4 and plywood workbench that holds my mortiser, sliding miter saw, and LOTS of misc garage storage. I MUST make a change to this layout. NOW. I am not particularly fond off this layout, and the bench length won't quite cut it. Not to mention the 24" table depth required a cobbled together extension for my miter saw to clear the rails. So it's not only shortening time, but also serious rethink time for the layout….
> 
> The challenges:
> 
> #1. This bench SHOULD match the width of the workshop library. I sized and installed the Library cabinet with the freezer location and size in mind.
> #2. This bench SHOULD be a minimum of 30" deep to allow clearance of the SCMS rails. However the space in the shop it sits on is 24" deep and then has a lip that drops 3.25" and proceeds to slope downhill. The front legs will have to be 3" longer or so, AND have some sort of heavy duty leveller.
> #3. This bench MUST be lower than the bottom of the library cabinet. FWIW, the Library Cabinet bottom is at 58.5" off the elevated part of the floor, again the floor slopes. but the library is levelled, so levellers required on the back legs too.
> #4. This bench must provide organized storage, and workspace for my Chicago Electric 12" SCMS, Central Machinery Mortising Machine and bits, as well as provide effective, or at least as effective as can be expected dust collection for the SCMS.
> #5. This bench must provide organized storage replacement for 4 large Rubbermaid Totes worth of stuff. This stuff includes, temporarily until a proper workstation is built, storage for all of my table saw, and router bits, blades, jigs, and accessories, painting, drywall, plumbing and other home repair misc tools and supplies that do not fit in my Craftsman Roll around tool cart.
> 
> One of these totes is nearly FULL of 16 or 14 ga outdoor extension cords and is primarily used for outdoor lighting. It can probably be stowed in the attic along with the inflatable reindeer…
> 
> Well after spending a bit of quality time with "Trimble" Sketchup last night (not thrilled about that but oh well…) I decided it was time to start the tear out…
> 
> Step #1. Disconnect the DC ducting from the existing dust hood.
> Step #2. Put the B&D miter saw stand back up by the shop overhead door.
> Step #3. Move the SCMS to the B&D miter saw stand, secure it down.
> Step #4. Remember why I retired the B&D stand in the first place…
> Step #5. Unbolt mortiser from bench, set mortiser and accessories aside for safe keeping.
> Step #6. Remove original dust hood and disassemble, placing what stock is recycleable back in the lumber racks.
> Step #7. Realize I forgot to turn the A/C or fan on and it's over 100 deg F. Utter words small children should not hear, go inside for a beer and hang it up for the night…
> 
> More to come on this one, but needless to say, these builds are going to take me a while. I am weaseling them in between working on the house in general. This one has GOT to take priority over the drum sander though as I need to make room for that freezer in order to get my sub panel. A little deal LOML and I ironed out… While I am on this build, I am also planning on building the mobile base cabinet for my drill press and drilling accessories. I have been wanting to hold out for the hole saw set I have been wanting, but that is a few more bucks than I want to spend. I have the case size down now so I am good for the cabinet build. I just wanted to insure I had enough space in the drawers to fit the cases I want… I have a good selection of bits and accessories that I need to store, and my current storage shelf is just overrun.
> 
> I am more than slightly tempted to put the mortiser back, make all my cuts, and rig this whole thing using M&T joinery just for the practice, but I dread the idea of cutting tenons on over 5 foot long stock!


If you need to take a break from all your tasks & projects, you are welcome to come by my place for a few cold beers. Of course, I do need help setting up my shop. Would you like a beer? There are no kids here so foul language is not a problem. Would you like another beer?

Good luck with the sub panel & reorganization. However, we need pictures of the progress, if possible.


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Or in this case deconstruction to make way...*
> 
> The freezer is coming, the freezer is coming! Of course along with it is going to be the subpanel, circuits, and insulated garage walls I have been wanting for the last few years. This means that for me, I have to get busy.
> 
> I have a 9.5' chunk of wall, a 36" wide freezer, and a presently 8' long Simpson Strong Tie 2×4 and plywood workbench that holds my mortiser, sliding miter saw, and LOTS of misc garage storage. I MUST make a change to this layout. NOW. I am not particularly fond off this layout, and the bench length won't quite cut it. Not to mention the 24" table depth required a cobbled together extension for my miter saw to clear the rails. So it's not only shortening time, but also serious rethink time for the layout….
> 
> The challenges:
> 
> #1. This bench SHOULD match the width of the workshop library. I sized and installed the Library cabinet with the freezer location and size in mind.
> #2. This bench SHOULD be a minimum of 30" deep to allow clearance of the SCMS rails. However the space in the shop it sits on is 24" deep and then has a lip that drops 3.25" and proceeds to slope downhill. The front legs will have to be 3" longer or so, AND have some sort of heavy duty leveller.
> #3. This bench MUST be lower than the bottom of the library cabinet. FWIW, the Library Cabinet bottom is at 58.5" off the elevated part of the floor, again the floor slopes. but the library is levelled, so levellers required on the back legs too.
> #4. This bench must provide organized storage, and workspace for my Chicago Electric 12" SCMS, Central Machinery Mortising Machine and bits, as well as provide effective, or at least as effective as can be expected dust collection for the SCMS.
> #5. This bench must provide organized storage replacement for 4 large Rubbermaid Totes worth of stuff. This stuff includes, temporarily until a proper workstation is built, storage for all of my table saw, and router bits, blades, jigs, and accessories, painting, drywall, plumbing and other home repair misc tools and supplies that do not fit in my Craftsman Roll around tool cart.
> 
> One of these totes is nearly FULL of 16 or 14 ga outdoor extension cords and is primarily used for outdoor lighting. It can probably be stowed in the attic along with the inflatable reindeer…
> 
> Well after spending a bit of quality time with "Trimble" Sketchup last night (not thrilled about that but oh well…) I decided it was time to start the tear out…
> 
> Step #1. Disconnect the DC ducting from the existing dust hood.
> Step #2. Put the B&D miter saw stand back up by the shop overhead door.
> Step #3. Move the SCMS to the B&D miter saw stand, secure it down.
> Step #4. Remember why I retired the B&D stand in the first place…
> Step #5. Unbolt mortiser from bench, set mortiser and accessories aside for safe keeping.
> Step #6. Remove original dust hood and disassemble, placing what stock is recycleable back in the lumber racks.
> Step #7. Realize I forgot to turn the A/C or fan on and it's over 100 deg F. Utter words small children should not hear, go inside for a beer and hang it up for the night…
> 
> More to come on this one, but needless to say, these builds are going to take me a while. I am weaseling them in between working on the house in general. This one has GOT to take priority over the drum sander though as I need to make room for that freezer in order to get my sub panel. A little deal LOML and I ironed out… While I am on this build, I am also planning on building the mobile base cabinet for my drill press and drilling accessories. I have been wanting to hold out for the hole saw set I have been wanting, but that is a few more bucks than I want to spend. I have the case size down now so I am good for the cabinet build. I just wanted to insure I had enough space in the drawers to fit the cases I want… I have a good selection of bits and accessories that I need to store, and my current storage shelf is just overrun.
> 
> I am more than slightly tempted to put the mortiser back, make all my cuts, and rig this whole thing using M&T joinery just for the practice, but I dread the idea of cutting tenons on over 5 foot long stock!


Lots to ponder there, I hope it all goes well for you.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Or in this case deconstruction to make way...*
> 
> The freezer is coming, the freezer is coming! Of course along with it is going to be the subpanel, circuits, and insulated garage walls I have been wanting for the last few years. This means that for me, I have to get busy.
> 
> I have a 9.5' chunk of wall, a 36" wide freezer, and a presently 8' long Simpson Strong Tie 2×4 and plywood workbench that holds my mortiser, sliding miter saw, and LOTS of misc garage storage. I MUST make a change to this layout. NOW. I am not particularly fond off this layout, and the bench length won't quite cut it. Not to mention the 24" table depth required a cobbled together extension for my miter saw to clear the rails. So it's not only shortening time, but also serious rethink time for the layout….
> 
> The challenges:
> 
> #1. This bench SHOULD match the width of the workshop library. I sized and installed the Library cabinet with the freezer location and size in mind.
> #2. This bench SHOULD be a minimum of 30" deep to allow clearance of the SCMS rails. However the space in the shop it sits on is 24" deep and then has a lip that drops 3.25" and proceeds to slope downhill. The front legs will have to be 3" longer or so, AND have some sort of heavy duty leveller.
> #3. This bench MUST be lower than the bottom of the library cabinet. FWIW, the Library Cabinet bottom is at 58.5" off the elevated part of the floor, again the floor slopes. but the library is levelled, so levellers required on the back legs too.
> #4. This bench must provide organized storage, and workspace for my Chicago Electric 12" SCMS, Central Machinery Mortising Machine and bits, as well as provide effective, or at least as effective as can be expected dust collection for the SCMS.
> #5. This bench must provide organized storage replacement for 4 large Rubbermaid Totes worth of stuff. This stuff includes, temporarily until a proper workstation is built, storage for all of my table saw, and router bits, blades, jigs, and accessories, painting, drywall, plumbing and other home repair misc tools and supplies that do not fit in my Craftsman Roll around tool cart.
> 
> One of these totes is nearly FULL of 16 or 14 ga outdoor extension cords and is primarily used for outdoor lighting. It can probably be stowed in the attic along with the inflatable reindeer…
> 
> Well after spending a bit of quality time with "Trimble" Sketchup last night (not thrilled about that but oh well…) I decided it was time to start the tear out…
> 
> Step #1. Disconnect the DC ducting from the existing dust hood.
> Step #2. Put the B&D miter saw stand back up by the shop overhead door.
> Step #3. Move the SCMS to the B&D miter saw stand, secure it down.
> Step #4. Remember why I retired the B&D stand in the first place…
> Step #5. Unbolt mortiser from bench, set mortiser and accessories aside for safe keeping.
> Step #6. Remove original dust hood and disassemble, placing what stock is recycleable back in the lumber racks.
> Step #7. Realize I forgot to turn the A/C or fan on and it's over 100 deg F. Utter words small children should not hear, go inside for a beer and hang it up for the night…
> 
> More to come on this one, but needless to say, these builds are going to take me a while. I am weaseling them in between working on the house in general. This one has GOT to take priority over the drum sander though as I need to make room for that freezer in order to get my sub panel. A little deal LOML and I ironed out… While I am on this build, I am also planning on building the mobile base cabinet for my drill press and drilling accessories. I have been wanting to hold out for the hole saw set I have been wanting, but that is a few more bucks than I want to spend. I have the case size down now so I am good for the cabinet build. I just wanted to insure I had enough space in the drawers to fit the cases I want… I have a good selection of bits and accessories that I need to store, and my current storage shelf is just overrun.
> 
> I am more than slightly tempted to put the mortiser back, make all my cuts, and rig this whole thing using M&T joinery just for the practice, but I dread the idea of cutting tenons on over 5 foot long stock!


It sounds like you are finally getting someplace with your shop, and with the freezer comes electricity. I get a headache thinking about your present situation.

Back here at the vacation house for a short week. We have friends with us, Brad and Suzy, and Brad and I are going to pick up a bandsaw today. We will try to get it set up, and then use it to get the miter saw on a cabinet and wheels. I will be happy to get just that much done in the next two days, and it is probably asking too much of my energy and luck reservoir. But this visit the shop should really get up and running here. Got to put edging on the bench and install the wood vise, and make a board mount for the machinists vise that I can attach to the workbend as needed.

So busy here as well. More later. I will try to take pictures as we go along…...with my iPhone, which I haven't done before…....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Or in this case deconstruction to make way...*
> 
> The freezer is coming, the freezer is coming! Of course along with it is going to be the subpanel, circuits, and insulated garage walls I have been wanting for the last few years. This means that for me, I have to get busy.
> 
> I have a 9.5' chunk of wall, a 36" wide freezer, and a presently 8' long Simpson Strong Tie 2×4 and plywood workbench that holds my mortiser, sliding miter saw, and LOTS of misc garage storage. I MUST make a change to this layout. NOW. I am not particularly fond off this layout, and the bench length won't quite cut it. Not to mention the 24" table depth required a cobbled together extension for my miter saw to clear the rails. So it's not only shortening time, but also serious rethink time for the layout….
> 
> The challenges:
> 
> #1. This bench SHOULD match the width of the workshop library. I sized and installed the Library cabinet with the freezer location and size in mind.
> #2. This bench SHOULD be a minimum of 30" deep to allow clearance of the SCMS rails. However the space in the shop it sits on is 24" deep and then has a lip that drops 3.25" and proceeds to slope downhill. The front legs will have to be 3" longer or so, AND have some sort of heavy duty leveller.
> #3. This bench MUST be lower than the bottom of the library cabinet. FWIW, the Library Cabinet bottom is at 58.5" off the elevated part of the floor, again the floor slopes. but the library is levelled, so levellers required on the back legs too.
> #4. This bench must provide organized storage, and workspace for my Chicago Electric 12" SCMS, Central Machinery Mortising Machine and bits, as well as provide effective, or at least as effective as can be expected dust collection for the SCMS.
> #5. This bench must provide organized storage replacement for 4 large Rubbermaid Totes worth of stuff. This stuff includes, temporarily until a proper workstation is built, storage for all of my table saw, and router bits, blades, jigs, and accessories, painting, drywall, plumbing and other home repair misc tools and supplies that do not fit in my Craftsman Roll around tool cart.
> 
> One of these totes is nearly FULL of 16 or 14 ga outdoor extension cords and is primarily used for outdoor lighting. It can probably be stowed in the attic along with the inflatable reindeer…
> 
> Well after spending a bit of quality time with "Trimble" Sketchup last night (not thrilled about that but oh well…) I decided it was time to start the tear out…
> 
> Step #1. Disconnect the DC ducting from the existing dust hood.
> Step #2. Put the B&D miter saw stand back up by the shop overhead door.
> Step #3. Move the SCMS to the B&D miter saw stand, secure it down.
> Step #4. Remember why I retired the B&D stand in the first place…
> Step #5. Unbolt mortiser from bench, set mortiser and accessories aside for safe keeping.
> Step #6. Remove original dust hood and disassemble, placing what stock is recycleable back in the lumber racks.
> Step #7. Realize I forgot to turn the A/C or fan on and it's over 100 deg F. Utter words small children should not hear, go inside for a beer and hang it up for the night…
> 
> More to come on this one, but needless to say, these builds are going to take me a while. I am weaseling them in between working on the house in general. This one has GOT to take priority over the drum sander though as I need to make room for that freezer in order to get my sub panel. A little deal LOML and I ironed out… While I am on this build, I am also planning on building the mobile base cabinet for my drill press and drilling accessories. I have been wanting to hold out for the hole saw set I have been wanting, but that is a few more bucks than I want to spend. I have the case size down now so I am good for the cabinet build. I just wanted to insure I had enough space in the drawers to fit the cases I want… I have a good selection of bits and accessories that I need to store, and my current storage shelf is just overrun.
> 
> I am more than slightly tempted to put the mortiser back, make all my cuts, and rig this whole thing using M&T joinery just for the practice, but I dread the idea of cutting tenons on over 5 foot long stock!


Sounds great Jim!

I am presently having fits trying to figure out my bench situation. I would LOVE to stash the compressor behind the bench so I can keep my Thien pre separator, but that might prove to be a design nightmare… I keep tinkering with the thought. No matter what, I have to carve out a space 24"x24"x42" for this sucker… I REALLY want in in that back corner because my power project plans included a circuit dedicated to the compressor and dust collector as I will never run them both at the same time.

I got more work on clearing off / dismantling the original bench done last night. The old vise is off, the SMS dust hood is off, and almost all the misc stuff that has been littering it for years is gone now…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Or in this case deconstruction to make way...*
> 
> The freezer is coming, the freezer is coming! Of course along with it is going to be the subpanel, circuits, and insulated garage walls I have been wanting for the last few years. This means that for me, I have to get busy.
> 
> I have a 9.5' chunk of wall, a 36" wide freezer, and a presently 8' long Simpson Strong Tie 2×4 and plywood workbench that holds my mortiser, sliding miter saw, and LOTS of misc garage storage. I MUST make a change to this layout. NOW. I am not particularly fond off this layout, and the bench length won't quite cut it. Not to mention the 24" table depth required a cobbled together extension for my miter saw to clear the rails. So it's not only shortening time, but also serious rethink time for the layout….
> 
> The challenges:
> 
> #1. This bench SHOULD match the width of the workshop library. I sized and installed the Library cabinet with the freezer location and size in mind.
> #2. This bench SHOULD be a minimum of 30" deep to allow clearance of the SCMS rails. However the space in the shop it sits on is 24" deep and then has a lip that drops 3.25" and proceeds to slope downhill. The front legs will have to be 3" longer or so, AND have some sort of heavy duty leveller.
> #3. This bench MUST be lower than the bottom of the library cabinet. FWIW, the Library Cabinet bottom is at 58.5" off the elevated part of the floor, again the floor slopes. but the library is levelled, so levellers required on the back legs too.
> #4. This bench must provide organized storage, and workspace for my Chicago Electric 12" SCMS, Central Machinery Mortising Machine and bits, as well as provide effective, or at least as effective as can be expected dust collection for the SCMS.
> #5. This bench must provide organized storage replacement for 4 large Rubbermaid Totes worth of stuff. This stuff includes, temporarily until a proper workstation is built, storage for all of my table saw, and router bits, blades, jigs, and accessories, painting, drywall, plumbing and other home repair misc tools and supplies that do not fit in my Craftsman Roll around tool cart.
> 
> One of these totes is nearly FULL of 16 or 14 ga outdoor extension cords and is primarily used for outdoor lighting. It can probably be stowed in the attic along with the inflatable reindeer…
> 
> Well after spending a bit of quality time with "Trimble" Sketchup last night (not thrilled about that but oh well…) I decided it was time to start the tear out…
> 
> Step #1. Disconnect the DC ducting from the existing dust hood.
> Step #2. Put the B&D miter saw stand back up by the shop overhead door.
> Step #3. Move the SCMS to the B&D miter saw stand, secure it down.
> Step #4. Remember why I retired the B&D stand in the first place…
> Step #5. Unbolt mortiser from bench, set mortiser and accessories aside for safe keeping.
> Step #6. Remove original dust hood and disassemble, placing what stock is recycleable back in the lumber racks.
> Step #7. Realize I forgot to turn the A/C or fan on and it's over 100 deg F. Utter words small children should not hear, go inside for a beer and hang it up for the night…
> 
> More to come on this one, but needless to say, these builds are going to take me a while. I am weaseling them in between working on the house in general. This one has GOT to take priority over the drum sander though as I need to make room for that freezer in order to get my sub panel. A little deal LOML and I ironed out… While I am on this build, I am also planning on building the mobile base cabinet for my drill press and drilling accessories. I have been wanting to hold out for the hole saw set I have been wanting, but that is a few more bucks than I want to spend. I have the case size down now so I am good for the cabinet build. I just wanted to insure I had enough space in the drawers to fit the cases I want… I have a good selection of bits and accessories that I need to store, and my current storage shelf is just overrun.
> 
> I am more than slightly tempted to put the mortiser back, make all my cuts, and rig this whole thing using M&T joinery just for the practice, but I dread the idea of cutting tenons on over 5 foot long stock!


As noted in my comment to your next part, working on the bench and stuff here (in Washington) as well. Have to get my saws up and running, meaning the band saw, plunge saw, and miter saw…......no table saw here, just no room. The band saw and the plunge saw will do the ripping.

Well off to the shop for awhile…......


----------



## dbhost

*I have achieved Sprayvana!*

Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…

The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.

After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…

The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…

Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…

Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…

So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.

Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…

Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…

Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…

So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!

Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…

I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!

I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…

This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…

Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *I have achieved Sprayvana!*
> 
> Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…
> 
> The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.
> 
> After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…
> 
> The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…
> 
> Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…
> 
> Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…
> 
> So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.
> 
> Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…
> 
> Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
> Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…
> 
> Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…
> 
> So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!
> 
> Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…
> 
> I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!
> 
> I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…
> 
> This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…
> 
> Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


Sounds like you have been a busy boy? have fun with the spraying. I have a 30 gallon Sealey vertical compressor and a small 4 gallon 1.5hp compressor which I do all of my work with. I bought the Sealey a couple of years ago in anticipation of spraying. I have still to use it. It stands in the corner of the shop under my timber pile. Perhaps one day, when time allows I'll even get around to running it in.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *I have achieved Sprayvana!*
> 
> Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…
> 
> The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.
> 
> After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…
> 
> The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…
> 
> Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…
> 
> Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…
> 
> So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.
> 
> Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…
> 
> Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
> Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…
> 
> Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…
> 
> So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!
> 
> Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…
> 
> I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!
> 
> I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…
> 
> This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…
> 
> Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


OK, I am getting graphically deprived…....youse gotta get some pictures into the blog!! I promise I will do my best to get out some kind of blog on my updated shop here in La Conner…...........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *I have achieved Sprayvana!*
> 
> Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…
> 
> The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.
> 
> After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…
> 
> The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…
> 
> Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…
> 
> Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…
> 
> So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.
> 
> Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…
> 
> Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
> Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…
> 
> Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…
> 
> So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!
> 
> Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…
> 
> I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!
> 
> I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…
> 
> This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…
> 
> Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


Do you REALLY want to see the destruction in progress?

I should snap a couple of pics of the new compressor, but it is just sort of living un-tidily next to a plastic shelving unit that is in desperate need of reorganization…

Jim, you have mentioned you were interested in going with a compressor a while ago… Do yourself a favor and learn from my mistakes… If you have the slightest inkling you are going to want to spray, or run air sanders etc… get as big of a compressor as you can afford, and can fit in your shop!

FWIW, I had passed up the HF 21 gallon unit in favor of this 29 gallon. The specs for the 21 gallon were, except for tank capacity, below those for my 8 gallon, and the build quality left me not feeling so good about it…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *I have achieved Sprayvana!*
> 
> Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…
> 
> The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.
> 
> After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…
> 
> The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…
> 
> Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…
> 
> Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…
> 
> So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.
> 
> Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…
> 
> Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
> Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…
> 
> Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…
> 
> So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!
> 
> Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…
> 
> I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!
> 
> I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…
> 
> This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…
> 
> Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


Here, where the shop has to be mobile and fit into a corner of the garage, a big compressor wouldn't fit. At home, if I started spraying, I would install a compressor of decent size in the storare area behind the garage, and pipe the air into the shop. But right now, I am not doing much of any woodwork, so the question is moot. That should change sometime in July or early August when I am done programming. In the meantime, my little 6 gallon compressors in each shop serve to do their required tasks fine. But YOU definitely need big time air!

OK, the big news here from yesterday was….....

After calling Grizzly in Bellingham, we found out that the G0457 was out of stock, and the next step down, the G0555LX was on sale. The G0555LX is the new and improved version of the the G0555. It cost exactly 1/2 of the G0457. That's a savings of $500, with the quality difference being in issues not too important to me. At least not for this shop, where only small projects and handyman stuff is planned. And the big resaw fence came included with the saw. I mean, this was a no brainer for this small shop. It has a 1hp motor, and the lighter base like the G0555, but has an improved quick release, and cast iron wheels, a better fence, and better blade adjustment mechanism. I bought a couple of extra blades and the mobile base. Brad and I put it together yesterday, and today we will give it a test run and tune-up.

One note of caution….....enter a Grizzly show room at your own peril, because it is a woodworkers dream place. Wow, could sure spend a lot of money there in a hurry.

So, getting stuff in the shop that I can blog about….....

Later…...


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *I have achieved Sprayvana!*
> 
> Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…
> 
> The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.
> 
> After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…
> 
> The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…
> 
> Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…
> 
> Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…
> 
> So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.
> 
> Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…
> 
> Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
> Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…
> 
> Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…
> 
> So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!
> 
> Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…
> 
> I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!
> 
> I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…
> 
> This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…
> 
> Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


Spraying is the only reason I needed to upgrade. Mind you, I COULD have made the 8 gallon compressor work, but it was frustrating having to stop and wait for the compressor to catch up. Yes it is big. It's not too big, but it's not as small as I would have liked. I would have preferred a horizontal tank model, but I wasn't able to find one in my price range that had specs worth a dang, or to be blunt, that Craftsman was visibly poorly made… Not sure how to explain it, just cheesy parts…

I had BAD insomnia last night, so I ended up straightening out that shelving unit mostly last night… I have one shelf I need to finish up with, but it's going good…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *I have achieved Sprayvana!*
> 
> Okay, so I admit it, I was trying to make the old Central Pneumatic 2HP 8 gallon compressor do duty driving a spray gun. Hey the specs on the spray gun were fairly low, But having to stop so often to let the compressor catch up was getting old, FAST… I mean it worked, more or less. But progress was painfully slow. So even with the upgrades I made just a few days ago on the little compressor, I did what I should have done in the first place, and got a bigger compressor…
> 
> The work needs to happen now, and now I don't have 220V, at least not yet. So I was looking for the best 110V compressor I could find, and as I had mentioned before, I had it narrowed down to 4 compressors, a Craftsman Horizontal 25 gallon, a Husky Vertical 30 gallon, an Ingersoll Rand horizontal 30 gallon, and a Central Pnuematic vertical 29 gallon.
> 
> After reading the reviews, I quickly wrote off the Craftsman as too unreliable, and after reading the price tag, I wrote off the Ingersoll Rand as out of my price point by a factor of 2. I really wanted to stay under $600.00 for everything… That left the Husky, and the Central Pneumatic…
> 
> The reviews for the CP were actually quite a bit more favorable as Husky seems to have shipped a few that pick up a rod knock during break it (NOT a good thing), but Home Depot did offer the extended warranty. They were both close enough in price, the CP for $349.00 + tax and extended warranty, the Husky for $429.00 + tax and extended warranty (anything that expensive gets the extended warranty. Cheap insurance to me!). So it was down to physical inspection time…
> 
> Simply put, the components on the CP won this comparison, hands down. Metal belt guard cage instead of plastic, both were fitted with Marathon 2HP motors, the CP had a MUCH nicer regulator, the one on the Husky looked like the thing I pulled off my 8 gallon CP last week. Not impressed. The CP regulator is well milled, and well executed…
> 
> Now the piece d'resistance… Casually hand the cashier the 20% off coupon, scan, and $69.00 and change off! That paid for the extended warranty right there! For what it's worth, I was buying some other items at the time that I thought the coupon would apply to…
> 
> So I got it home, and VERY carefully unloaded this beast out of my truck myself, (it's not exactly light) wheeled the box to the shop, and carefully removed the compressor, including a little pallet then mount it to, out of the box and review the manual.
> 
> Next step was to assemble this sucker. 2 wheels, 2 rubber feet and 1 handle, that's it! Next is the break in. Verify the break in oil is in the pump, open the tank drain valve. That's no cheesy Petcock valve down there! That's a nice smooth ball valve! Insert a male QD with nothing on it in the female, and fire it up for 10 minutes… Okay so I let it run 15, I got a phone call…
> 
> Stop it, close it up, drain and refill the oil. Yep, just like the 8 gallon, the drain plug is in the worst possible position and next to impossible to cleanly drain this sucker. I made a little funnel gizmo out of aluminum foil to guide the draining oil to the catch pan, drain all the oil out I can, put plug back in. Next to no metal. Actually the drained oil looks really clean for break in oil!
> Put new oil in pump case to proper level, put stopper back in, and fire it up…
> 
> Considering the 2HP motor, and nearly 30 gallon tank, this thing fills up REALLY fast. And it's quiet. Unlike the 8 gallon which I can hear all the way across the house, you have to stand next to the shop door to hear this one running…
> 
> So the compressor is up, broken in, running, now what? Oh yeah, I upsized to support spraying right? Grab the spray gun, reduce some latex paint with some Floetrol per directions, run it through a strainer into the paint cup, connect the hoses to the regulators and filters and adjust the pressures, connect spray gun to the hose, and to the inside of the compressor box, well, get busy adjusting the spray gun… Okay gun adjusted, do the same with the Husky gun. Gun adjusted, and NOW the compressor kicks on!
> 
> Drain back and clean the guns per directions. Done… Use blowgun to blow spray guns dry. Done…
> 
> I am gonna LOVE not having to hear that little compressor kick on all the time any more, as is my wife, and my neighbors!
> 
> I am a little hard pressed to know what to do with the 8 gallon though. It IS a nice little compressor for what it is, especially after the upgrades. But I need the space. I am considering selling this thing, or donating it to my church. The latter I think would be best. I need to check to see how that would work…
> 
> This IS going to change my shop arrangements, and will likely mean the Thien pre separator has to go. But I can always put a baffle in the DC and call it good! I REALLY want my compressor next to the dust collector for space reasons. They are not something I interface with too often, just turn on, and off, and to empty…
> 
> Can't wait to start spraying that ceiling!


I got a bunch of things going in this little shop now, but I am mostly learning to use my new tools. The band saw will get used today, I think. The plunge saw is in use. So is the miter saw, but found I have to calibrate the laser…...........

Insomnia is always a bad thing…..........I usually sit at my computer until I get sleepy, that usually works…......


----------



## dbhost

*Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*

Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!

Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them. 









You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.









The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!









The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.









The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet. 









The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!









My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet. 









My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.









Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.









The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


----------



## thedude50

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


biggest longest ryobi saw i have ever seen where did you get it I have not seen this model at big orange


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


DB you could almost play a game with your photos "hence", pick out anything in the photos that don't belong in a wood working shop. LOL

I see a fish net and some bicycles for starters. LOL 
Anything non woodshop related gets thrown out of my shop, if it doens't pertain to wood working then you won't find it in there.


----------



## TerryV

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


I'm with you on keeping non-woodworking stuff out of the workshop. It isn't consistent with the dignity of the craft!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


Hey, that shop is really starting to get some character! You are steadily getting ahead of issues that come with a dual purpose shop. Good show!

The little shop here is already forming up, with its major attribute being mobile and compact. I have three Husky X sawhorses, and can rig a plywood work table in about two minutes with two of them and a couple of clamps. And put stuff away just as fast. The Festool stuff with their Systainers are made for this type of situation. But I still need a moble stand for the miter saw. The band saw rolls in and out of a corner.


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


Looks as though you are getting a handle on your compromises.

Mobility and well thought out placement of shared storage spaces is the key to enjoying your passion for woodworking in a mulitasking garage.

Everyone can't dedicate their family 2 car garage or build a 40'x60' barn, just for woodworking, so you keep heading in the right direction and you will reach your Happy compromise. 
Think of it as a good Marriage and accept those things that make it work well.

Perfection is but a preception. - Len


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


Okay to answer the questions.

That table saw is a Ryobi BT3100-1, no longer offered by Ryobi, it is a discontinued model. I bought it used, but they had stopped selling them about 6 years ago now. It is equipped with the wide table kit, 2 dual miter slot tables, and wide table legs. I have also fitted it with an assortment of throat plates both zero clearance and dado, as well as a Shark Guard with a 4" port.

Yes there are some non shop things in there. I do not yet have the shed I desperately need, that will be coming, just not yet. Electrical and insulation is first, THEN a shed. One full shelving unit, and 3/5 of the other one are full of stuff that has nothing to do with woodworking, but then again this shop isn't just a woodworking shop either. If it were I wouldn't have a need for all the auto tools now would I ?

The fishing net needs to get wet, It spends WAY too much time in the shop. Just glad my poles aren't in there right now!


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


Couldn't help myself, I think that was the Loki side coming out of me.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


No worries about Loki here…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


The debate continues, and probably will for quite some time. My wife teeter totters on wanting me to keep the shop in the garage, presumably because it is more secure than a stand alone building, yet she keeps hinting she will likely want to park the next car in the garage… We will be adding a shed but I would be pushing, HARD to get approved for a 12×16. I do have some designs in place that would work with that size limit, but it's a little bit smaller than I would be comfortable with… I really could make a 12×20 work well though… I will likely get the 12×16 in for storage, and make the current shop mobile enough to scoot everything over to one bay for vehicle storage when the need arises…

For now, lawn and garden, and bikes that sort of thing are in the shop… This is NOT the long term situation…


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


It's a never ending quest, just when you think you have it all done, something else comes along to spoil the party.

I have had my shop two years now and still haven't had the chance to install the dust collection system. I got it part way started then the good lady insisted on the kitchen remodel. I hope to complete it come the end of summer.

Good luck with all your plans.


----------



## thedude50

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning up my shop in preparation for the miter / mortising / storage station build.*
> 
> Since I have been getting the business over talking about it and now showing any pics, here are the pics… I did a big cleanup of the mess of a shop, got the compressor stashed reasonably out of the way, but accessible. I have so much more to do but it now involves builds, not cleaning!
> 
> Both of my clamshell cabinets are up and in use. I use almost every last square inch of space inside and on top of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the compressor stashes in very nicely next to the water softener / Reverse Osmosis system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The workshop library cabinet, it stays put, but that strong tie workbench beneath it is history. I am planning on replacing the top front stretcher. I have a friend that does a LOT of auto repair and this bench is perfect for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Grizzly air filter, and the clamp / lumber racks in the distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The planer and scroll saw stashed under the workbench. Not sure, but I might end up converting the bench, and the wide table for the table saw into a single large workstation cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BT3100 / wide table with Ridgid shop vac and Thien separator underneath. Those last two will pose a storage problem in the long term!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 12 inch slider and my drill press… The slider will go on the new cabinet, but the drill press, gets a base cabinet. The stuff stowed on that little shelf between the doors goes in that drill press base cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2HP 29 gallon upright compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the compressor. It is well worth considering if you are looking for this size class compressor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I had to move my planer is that I have stock on my lumber rack that is too long for the space, so I moved the planer in favor of long stock…


I took our three car garage and cleand all the junk out and stored all the storage in the new shed I built 10×12 the limit the city allows without a building permit . I did all the work and the wife says its her shop too I told her to jump in the lake this is my shop you can do anything you want in your house but this is my shop and stay out


----------



## dbhost

*Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*

Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.

The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.

There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.

I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.

The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.

Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.

That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


OK, this is late at night, time for bed….......will read it in the morning. Compressor enclosure….....watch the heat, make sure it is accessible. Been there.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Enclosure is probably the wrong word.. Compressor protector is more like it. The "enclosure" will be vented GENEROUSLY with a 4" hole saw. I am merely trying to provide a niche to store the compressor where it won't be prone to having stuff bang into the regulator, or fall into the belt guard etc… It's a bit on the short side, and I didn't want to have just any old thing stored over it for fear of having junk fall or smash into it in a moment of klutzery…

And honestly, I couldn't think of a better use for the space behind the mortiser, which is all but wasted otherwise.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Yup, I have large 4" hole under the compressor and a slot of similar area on top. good ventilation, but with excellent sound abatement. I am having some trouble visualizing…......meaning graphic conception….......maybe pictures or plans would help (-: (-:

........but I understand the protection idea. Compressors should be seen, but not heard, don't you think?
......hmmmmmmmm. Sound is an issue, although oil based ones are probably the solution.

Got a sound problem at the vacation house. Gotta work on that….........

Never got around to the vacation house shop pictures…....maybe this weekend when I am not on call.

But I can say one thing. Festool controls dust well for some tools, but not for all…...the miter saw still scatters some chips and dust…....

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


I don't have a copy separate from my workshop model handy… But here it is…









http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=445324d0a6c1ea2d16b88961dfc5f0c2


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Yes, that helps. Behind the mortiser you have a blank area. You need access to drain any water from the tank, which has got to be a problem down there. It looks like you would have access to the right of the mortiser.

By the time I get back in the shop, I am going to have to reinvent my cuttoffs cart, can barely remember what I was doing. But I think the end is in sight, at least with the programming part. Then it is just templates, most of which will be similar structures, just different data (meaning words).

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


You got it right. That blank area, in the model I just knocked out a black box to represent the compressor space, it's access is to the right side of the bench. Bleed off of water is a problem, but not as much as you'd think. I can bleed the tank, have bone dry air coming out, and the tank will still be at 120+ PSI… The drain is at the dead bottom of the tank.

The idea is to make the thing easy to service. The door piece to this rig will have the vent holes in it. I figure pointed that direction shouldn't be a problem as I am going to go out that way with the air hose anyway.

Since I haven't mentioned it yet, that space between the clamshell cabs is going to be another cab, this one sized to height to the clamshell cabs, but all plywood, and it will have shelves on it for gallons of paint, and stains. Some simple plywood doors with tool holders and spring clips will hold my turning tools.

The idea here is, to get rid of the (not pictured here) 48" wide x 18" deep x 6.5 foot tall plastic shelving units that are there now. I have a LOT of redundant supplies in there, like 6 or 7 bottles of wheel cleaner, 4 or 5 containers of tire dressing, 2 or 3 bottles of car wash soap etc… In this model, non shop storage is assumed to be out in a shed in the back yard. Everything big is mobile except for the lumber rack. There is enough space in there if I were to wheel the table saw to the right side, I could pull LOMLs car in on the left if I had to, for example in weather like we have had all week this week would be a good time to do that!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Read your post yesterday, but finally got around to replying to stuff today. In my home shop, at least I don't have to deal with cars, although I admit I store lumber in the garage section forward of the shop. At the vacation home I have to put everything away to allow both cars in. And of course there, having the cars inside is important.

This shop here really needs an space utilization makeover, but at least I have a functioning shop with plenty of room.

The vacation shop will be shoehorned in. I meant to do a blog on the shop, but never got to it this weekend. I am slogging my way through the macro processor for my program, and it is slow go. I haven't done anything to this extent in the macro type area before, so it takes some real thinking. Fortunately, it just takes general programming skills, and I have brushed on the area before, but mostly command line stuff, and some totally unrelated stuff in flightsim. Fortunately, the macro language only needs variables, basic arithmetic, simple IF statemensts, a CHOOSE facility, and an odd ball RANGE function that can decide which of a set of ranges a value lies in. I guess familiarity with batch files and html stuff adds a little support to my beleagured mind. I remember doing some extremely complex stuff with DOS batch files many years ago. My wife had a yarn store for 7 years. It was run on a simple point of sale program, which included inventory stuff, and every day a backup was run onto tape from a batch file that started the boot and ended the day on the main computer which served as the point of sale register as well. It could even handle an interrupted backup.

But, all that as an apology for my tardy responses and absence from the blogging realm here at LJ's. I actually have a decent band saw, 14" Grizzly, down in Washington. I plan to get a much more robust one for home.

So looking good there, you have been very disciplined in making a shop that is affordable and competant. My shop at home is closer to your principal than my vacation shop. But there I have a small space, limited time, and stringent restrictions for dust collection and general footprint.

OK, will try to squeeze in a blog sometime this week….......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


I am good for now. The after effects of the pneumonia are mostly gone. Not something I want to go through again. I am still in the take it easy mode though so as to not trip it back into another visit…

I have some detail work to do on the living room trim as paint came off along with the tape, so I have to get there with an artists brush, and redo the seam between wall and trim. No big deal, just tedious…

LOML has decreed that I shall remove the A/C return air vents, strip them, and spray them. She was FAR less than happy with the results from brushing the paint on. I can't say as I can blame her. I am actually considering replacing the return air vents as they are two different door styles. The one on top has swing catches and is hinged at the bottom, the one on the bottom has retaining thumb screws, and is hinged on the left side. I would prefer the latte as the former is a PAIN to get latched when I replace my filters… Which it is close to time to do… So if I can find them, maybe this upcoming weekend I will be replacing return air assemblies with some better ones. Still going to strip and repaint my originals, maybe donate them to Habitat for Humanity. I know of a few of their houses that could use these…

I have to hurry up and get the miter saw / mortiser station done, and NOW because I need to move storage off of my right wall, once that is done, sheet rock comes down, wiring goes in, inspections get done, then insulate and drywall goes back up. I will be more than happy to be done with that side. Once the goodies are mounted in their final homes, the lumber rack etc… from the other side comes down, rock on that side comes down, insulation and new rock go up, and I will end up with a heated / cooled / insulated / fully powered workspace… This whole shebang will probably end up done by the time I need heat this winter. Even if I had all the cash in the world, I would be happier moving my own stuff around. No matter how much you pay someone else, they don't care about your equipment as much as you do you know?

I've got to get to HF this weekend and grab my own HVLP gun, actually since they are going for $14.99 right now I am going to grab a couple of them. My compressor drives the borrowed HF HVLP just fine, but borrowing the neighbors spray gun all the time probably won't go over too well, and I like the idea of HVLP to minimize overspray. That ceiling needs to be finished and soon! Especially in the kitchen…

Back to the shop thing. I am not sure I am wanting to repaint the inside of the shop, but if I am going to, I better do it while I have the walls empty. so more spraying for me! Probably pick up a 5 gallon bucket of Glidden bright white semi gloss on the cheap and shoot that. I have a few 2 gallon buckets that are empty now. Just need to thoroughly clean them, and I can use them to mix up the paint / floetrol and get busy with painting that garage…

Long term, I need to reframe the attic stairs out there as well, meaning I will need to rerock the ceiling. NOT something I am looking forward to. But if you saw the way they framed in the opening for the stairs, you'd KNOW why I need to redo it… My city inspector should be ashamed that they let this through like this. Heck my bank inspector should have pointed it out when I bought the house, I would have insisted that get fixed! But oh well… Nothing some 2×12, nails and proper hurricane straps won't fix…

The neighbor across the way, a younger fellow who has a pair of labs that like to play with our pup, offered to let me temporarily rent his garage while I do the floor in my shop. I know he has an ulterior motive, but I am good with it… He has mostly gutted the inside of his house out, and is working on the trim work now. The rent will be my old Firestorm miter saw. No big loss, and I will be more than happy to help him our where I can. Heck I'd be happy to swap some labor. A LOT of my jobs would go MUCH easier with a second person with some lifting ability to them (my lovely bride is a wee bit short…).

I am definately getting excited about the progress. I am seeing some light at the end of my construction tunnel. My front hallway is 90+ % done, the living room is over 50% done as is the main bathroom. Things are coming together very quickly now, and my old house, well isn't looking quite so 1984 any more… It certainly looks 2012 and under construction, but I am good with that!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Tardy, again, same excuse…....working hard at work and at home, so things are done late. Actually, I am commenting only about half as often on LJ's, and only about half as much. I just have to push through on the programming thing.

You must really be excited about getting the house together, and the shop…........simultaneously yet!!

Re the shop. Paint. Paint it while you can, I wish I had known what I know now, in 1985. I would have painted those walls bright white before I started mounting things on them. One of these years I will paint the shop, but it wil take a lot of work, and I will probably rerun some electrical in conduit just to make it pretty.

Do not miss this opportunity…....paint the shop.

Re the paint. Flat or semi. I guess I would go with the semi-gloss, but you don't want glare. Once you have the whole thing going, you will have a lot more light. The floor will shine, the walls will shine…....hmmmm.

Look at Dave Owen's shop….....http://lumberjocks.com/LakelandDave/workshop.

I don't know whether he used flat or semi, but he was an architect. I notice he has not been active lately on LJ's, but you might message him and see if he is around. He could give you a professional opinion.

Air vents. Here in Anchorage we have hot water baseboard, and in some of the house we have some pretty extravagant jatoba radiator covers. But at the vacation house, we have air vents. I pull those suckers out of the floor and clean them. We like to make that house sparkle the day before we leave, and clean the place up. Then we come back it is kind of magical. Re the vents, I would think spray is the way to go. Looks good, attracts less dust, cleans off easily. Brushing will leave grooves for dust to collect, and there is a lot of air going by those things.

I don't think I would allow anyone to move my shop equipment unless it was me, or I was supervising. Agree one hundred percent. Some of our equipment has some critical and almost delicate parts. The alignment and adjustment issues could cost days of work, if handled by people without proper knowledge.

Re having some help…....with my friend Brad down in Washington, I got much done, and with much less risk, when we were installing things in the shop. Yup…...take on the friends offer, and get him to help you with some things. Bet that will be a win-win situation.

You are definitely gonna have a sense of accomplishmet after everything is done. The only thing I have to say is….....do the paint job…..and do the floor. In Washington, the floor and the walls have been done. I don't know if it will ever get done here at home in Anchorage. Now is the time to do it right. You will love it, and if you sell it, you will get your money back…........

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Actually, not sure if you ever caught on to this, but I have some vision issues. Not as bad as say nbeener's, but I will take anything that will help visibility. Semi Gloss paint, at least for me, does NOT cause glare that will bother me. On the contrary it will help with my visibility. Dave Owens shop that you linked is part of my inspiration…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser station / Compressor enclosure / Storage bench work came to a grinding halt.*
> 
> Due to a sudden, unexpected, and very unpleasant go round with pnuemonia. I am back on my feet, but know better than to push myself too hard for the next couple of weeks, so instead I got back to Sketchup, and tinkered around with the design some more.
> 
> The main section is still going to be 48" wide x 34.75" tall x 36" deep. There will be a partial divider down the middle of this carcass, extending from the front of the case back 24" to provide separation between the lowest part where the router cases will be stored, and to provide drawer support.
> 
> There will be 2 rows of 3 6" high 24" deep drawers, with the faces inset into the carcass such that it creates a simply cube look. I am not practicing face frame construction at this time, don't really want it on this particular cab anyway… (I do have it designed for the drill press cab though!). I also wanted to have the drawers flush with the face of the cab.
> 
> I need to double, triple, and quadruple check my measurements, but I will build a dust hood for the miter saw, 24" deep x 48" wide x ? high… Like I said, quadruple check that hieght measurement. The top piece will be shared with the cover for the compressor enclosure, and the right panel will act as the compressor enclosures left side wall.
> 
> The mortiser station will be built as a separate box, 12.75" deep x 30" wide x 34.75" high, and will be glued and scewed directly to the Miter saw station right panel. I am planning on 3/4 shelves on this simple cab, to hold various finishes, perhaps I might end up building some totes to organize things like spray cans. Again like the miter saw dust hood component, total height of the back wall of this cab will be dependent on my final measurements, but sized to match the dust hood, and all of it to fit snugly under the workshop library cabinet.
> 
> Additional organizers include a 1.5" high x 8" wide x 2.25" deep mortiser accessory tool holder. (already built). Simple 2×4 milled and drilled to my needs.
> 
> That's as far as I have gotten with the planning. I need to finish up 2 sides of the compressor cab. I am seriously considering just piano hinging a piece of ply to the upright front panel to create a door, and hasp that sucker directly to the wall behind it. Doesn't really need to lock. Just needs to stay closed.


Experience, and your own needs trumps all. I would say on average a semi-gloss product would shed sawdust better, but I don't know that. I have so much of my wall space covered that I could probably get by with a high gloss product. Owen's shop almost glows, but it doesn't overpower, at least looking at the pictures.

Have a good weekend, I should be around the internet some, I am just catching up with the week's emails…......


----------



## dbhost

*Miter Saw / Mortiser getting done... Dry fit of the miter saw segment.*

The case for the miter saw station is now cut to final size, dadoes and rabbets cut with a few minor mistakes, but nothing that will impact function. Dry fit looks good,

I am taking the day off of work, so I am in the shop today, I should have the cabinet in glue and clamps this afternoon. Right now the cab will have to wait. I am getting dressed for a lunch date with my lovely bride… Talk to you guys this afternoon!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw / Mortiser getting done... Dry fit of the miter saw segment.*
> 
> The case for the miter saw station is now cut to final size, dadoes and rabbets cut with a few minor mistakes, but nothing that will impact function. Dry fit looks good,
> 
> I am taking the day off of work, so I am in the shop today, I should have the cabinet in glue and clamps this afternoon. Right now the cab will have to wait. I am getting dressed for a lunch date with my lovely bride… Talk to you guys this afternoon!


We spent some of this gorgeous afternoon on the porch, with Sherie spinning yarn, me relaxing, and Kermit yakking at the birds, dragonflies, and jets from the AirShow here at Elmendorf. Sherie is making a quiche for dinner now, and I settled into my chair…....

Almost done with the programming, tomorrow should be the end. Then it will be templates. But the push and the pressure will be off.

We are having a date for dinner at home…......but I am betting your lunch date will be more special….....you folks have a good time….....

I like the dryfit, of course, being OCD, I expect the dryfit to have structural integrity. Why do I suspect you are the same?......(-:

I am itching to get back into the shop. Golly, how I miss it!!

It is obvious you are having a good day…....we are having a good one too….......think about those things we can really be thankful for…........

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

*Miter Saw bench, in glue and screws.*

I need to complete the mortiser cabinet, the compressor enclosure, miter saw dust hood and the foot of the cabinet.









I didn't realize before I started, but the floor is FAR from level. The shop library cabinet is dead level. There is 1/2" drop over the 4' of the miter saw cabinet dropping to the left. I will likely take some scrap 1/2" ply to shim the base so that the cabinet is level.

At least the stuff from overhead of the clamshell cabinets.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw bench, in glue and screws.*
> 
> I need to complete the mortiser cabinet, the compressor enclosure, miter saw dust hood and the foot of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize before I started, but the floor is FAR from level. The shop library cabinet is dead level. There is 1/2" drop over the 4' of the miter saw cabinet dropping to the left. I will likely take some scrap 1/2" ply to shim the base so that the cabinet is level.
> 
> At least the stuff from overhead of the clamshell cabinets.


Gad zooks, isn't old work the pits. You can depend on things not being plumb or straight. Well, heading for dinner soon, should be around a little more this weekend….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw bench, in glue and screws.*
> 
> I need to complete the mortiser cabinet, the compressor enclosure, miter saw dust hood and the foot of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize before I started, but the floor is FAR from level. The shop library cabinet is dead level. There is 1/2" drop over the 4' of the miter saw cabinet dropping to the left. I will likely take some scrap 1/2" ply to shim the base so that the cabinet is level.
> 
> At least the stuff from overhead of the clamshell cabinets.


Just got back from a spur of the moment trip to Galveston…


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw bench, in glue and screws.*
> 
> I need to complete the mortiser cabinet, the compressor enclosure, miter saw dust hood and the foot of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize before I started, but the floor is FAR from level. The shop library cabinet is dead level. There is 1/2" drop over the 4' of the miter saw cabinet dropping to the left. I will likely take some scrap 1/2" ply to shim the base so that the cabinet is level.
> 
> At least the stuff from overhead of the clamshell cabinets.


What kind of saw are you running there?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw bench, in glue and screws.*
> 
> I need to complete the mortiser cabinet, the compressor enclosure, miter saw dust hood and the foot of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize before I started, but the floor is FAR from level. The shop library cabinet is dead level. There is 1/2" drop over the 4' of the miter saw cabinet dropping to the left. I will likely take some scrap 1/2" ply to shim the base so that the cabinet is level.
> 
> At least the stuff from overhead of the clamshell cabinets.


Chicago Electric 12" slider fitted with a Diablo 80 T blade.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter Saw bench, in glue and screws.*
> 
> I need to complete the mortiser cabinet, the compressor enclosure, miter saw dust hood and the foot of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize before I started, but the floor is FAR from level. The shop library cabinet is dead level. There is 1/2" drop over the 4' of the miter saw cabinet dropping to the left. I will likely take some scrap 1/2" ply to shim the base so that the cabinet is level.
> 
> At least the stuff from overhead of the clamshell cabinets.


Okay since I am not on my phone right now… The miter saw is a Chicago Electric #98194 12 inch Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser Guide.

The blade is a Freud Diablo D1280X 12 inch 80 tooth crosscutting blade.

The big warnings I have about this saw are…

#1. Don't bother with the OEM blade, it is frightening. Upgrade before using the saw.
#2. Forget the dust bag. Hook it up to a vac, back it up with a dust hood, or use it outside and let the dust fly…. The dust bag looks like burlap, and filters just about as well…
#3. Harbor Freight cut the corner of thread locker on the fasteners on this thing. I used Loctite 242 (blue) on the bolts for this thing. The fence WILL come out of square if you don't use thread locker… Periodically check the fastners on this saw, and if you find one that is working its way loose, pull it, add some thread locker, and run it back in…


----------



## dbhost

*Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*

Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.

The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…

Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…

I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….

I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*
> 
> Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.
> 
> The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…
> 
> Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…
> 
> I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….
> 
> I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


Okay I lied. No dadoes. I am just going to cleat and screw the shelves on…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*
> 
> Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.
> 
> The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…
> 
> Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…
> 
> I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….
> 
> I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


I am waiting for your subpanel so that I can quit worrying about you burning down your house. Also remember, in general, motors with the highest voltage they are rigged for and a proper voltage (meaning no voltage drop) in general will run better and cooler, and last longer. Whew…....when did you say you were going to get that subpanel?.........(-:

Pocket screws…...I got the whole shebang…....and I haven't used them once. But, they have got to be a better approach to getting up utilitarian shelves and cabinets in a timely manner. I will revisit them.

As you know, I am kinda like you, although not a purist for obvious reasons, and like to see how much I can do with a lot of nothing. My vacation house has a different approach, but still kinda minimalist because I will not do big projects down there. Maybe, just maybe, I will get a blog out soon on the developing shop…........totally offbeat in terms of approach from what you and I are doing now.

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*
> 
> Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.
> 
> The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…
> 
> Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…
> 
> I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….
> 
> I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


The tenative Schedule is the weekend of September 14th for the electrical work…

I have very little presently that can be wired for 220V aside for the motor for my drum sander, which is in the build process… I am not 100% sure, but I think my band saw can be wired for 220V, need to check the manual…

It is entirely possible I might just butt joint / screw the drawer boxes. I need fast, and strong. I am totally not worried about pretty. The whole point here is to get the thing done so I can get storage into it… I have discovered more stuff than space on the bottom shelf than I had expected. Too many sanders, not enough shelf. But they will fit in a drawer…

The cubby created by the mortiser cab is perfect for the compressor. I did mess up on mounting the mortiser accessory rack but it works, so for now, it is what it is… And fixing the problem would be a MUCH bigger deal than I am wanting to deal with… A MUCH bigger counter sink would make quick work of the problem, but alas, the holes are way too big for my countersinks.

I am totally psyched for these projects to be done…

Once I am completed with my in progress shop projects I will have the following finally taken care of…

#1. Full depth proper miter saw station with built in clamping risers, and extended fence faces.
#2. Proper mortiser stand, insuring the mortiser and miter saw do NOT interfere with the operation of the other.
#3. Massively enhanced storage for handheld power tools, routing and table saw accessories, finishes, and my small electronic tools like the studfinder, caliper, moisture meter etc… 
#4. Total of 100 amps pulled into the shop. 60 amps in 3 circuits dedicated 110V, 40 amps in 2 circuits 220V.
#5. Fully insulated, and re-rocked my shop.
#6. Re-oriented shop arrangement to take better advantage of the wall / floor space available to me. Particularly re-orient the clamshell cabinets, and place the tool stacker such that the overhead door tracks to not interfere with it, and placement will be closer to the bench where the equipment is actually used.

The sacrifice I have to make to get all this done, the upright deep freeze moves from the kitchen, to the shop. I am less than thrilled about this, but I tend to agree, it sucks up critical space which should be for a breakfast table out of the kitchen.

LOML has already agreed to a shed, 12×16 if we can swing it by the HOA… Everything NOT shop related is going in there. Honestly, if I can swing it, I will figure out a way to put the deep freeze out there! I did size the bench I am working on so that any long stock would be completely clear of the deep freeze in the shop. But boy what a sacrifice!

I started this project out with full intent to go fancy with my joinery, but honestly. I am in a hurry to get this done. Schedule is kicking my backside, and I have to get this done. God willing I won't regret the choices I made…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*
> 
> Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.
> 
> The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…
> 
> Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…
> 
> I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….
> 
> I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


I have alluded to it before…......butt joints, nails, and glue are a much better joint than people realize. Don't hesitate to use that nail gun. The trick is the glue combined with a metal fastener of almost any sort. In heavy use areas, dadoes and perhaps glue blocks. Dovetails are mostly an art form.


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*
> 
> Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.
> 
> The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…
> 
> Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…
> 
> I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….
> 
> I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


You didn't lie, you just changed priorities! Utilitarian shop fixtures/fiurniture only needs to be functional. Build it fast, "down & dirty", so as to get to building the "pretty" stuff sooner. I set out with grandiose plans regularly, but then when it comes down to the actal build, I realize that it is more important to just build it. I can always go back and make a pretty, upgraded version once I determine the originals limitations.

Keep plugging away, the end is near…....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Making adjustments on the fly... Mortiser bench...*
> 
> Due to the depth needed to make the Mortiser fence line up with the miter saw fence, I need an inch and a half more depth than I had initially designed in. Not this isn't a show stopper, HOWEVER, I will likely not build the enclosure for the compressor as I had initially planned. This is okay. The purpose was never committed to covering up the or cancelling out noise from the compressor, but rather keeping the compressor out of the way.
> 
> The clamping risers and dust hood for the miter saw remain yet to be done, without the front panel of the compressor enclosure, I need to decide on a different mounting location for the mortiser accessory rack. But that isn't a huge deal…
> 
> Right now, the AC is trying to overcome the thermal load in my shop, once cooled off, I start the cuts for the mortiser cabinet. The side panels will get dadoes for the shelves. The back panel will be dadoed to match. This should make for a much more rigid structure overall, helping the shelves support the gallon cans of finishes and the myriad aerosol cans that will be stored there…
> 
> I still need to get the material for the drawers, but I am getting more and more convinced that I sould use pocket screw joinery on the drawers simply to make the assembly go faster….
> 
> I am enthusiastic about the pace this is going together, and am very glad that I will have this done. With this done, I can unmount the clamshells from the wall, get the plastic shelving moved and start ripping sheet rock down… Which means… SUBPANEL! Woo Hoo!


I almost feel guilty about the quick and dirty construction methodology, mostly because it is very square, very solid, and will likely still be that way in 20 years, I most likely won't have an excuse to redo this other than I want to…

Thankfully this bench is designed with this particular shop in mind, and God willing somebody else will be worrying about it in 20 years. I want to be in Oregon by then!


----------



## dbhost

*More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*

Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…

My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…

I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…

The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…

I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..

I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*
> 
> Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…
> 
> My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…
> 
> I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…
> 
> The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…
> 
> I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..
> 
> I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


You are giving me some rumblings of ambition to redo my shop, but I don't think it will fit my schedule. So I kinda put up with what it is. Functional, but not beautiful, and anything but ideal.

Re the door. Either it is a big problem, meaning the grades of the driveway and the garage are wrong, or it is a small problem that could be cured with something glued, screwed, or whatevered to the floor where the door hits. Sounds like a small problem, but not a problem I have ever addressed.

I think I am down to just a few lines of code on my program. Then comes the rest of the story, the templates. First for my PA, then for me. But it can be used before all the templates are done, since you can mix things with the present system.

Of course it gets a test with my PA, and I might find I have to change something, but I bet not. There are a few areas that need refining….the undo/redo code, which is quite complicated because there is text user generated, program generated, and text routinely replaced in the fields. I think I am going to compromise and make that part of it not perfect, but usable. Besides….....who makes mistakes?.....(-:

Good to see you having a lazy evening…...remember your back, pace yourself….....advice from an old fart who has no choices but to pace himself…........(-:

Later…........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*
> 
> Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…
> 
> My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…
> 
> I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…
> 
> The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…
> 
> I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..
> 
> I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


I got the shelves installed tonight. Not quite enough space to store everything I need stored, but if I exclude all non shop stuff, It is not only enough space, it is WAY more than enough space…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*
> 
> Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…
> 
> My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…
> 
> I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…
> 
> The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…
> 
> I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..
> 
> I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


Spent a bit more time out there, clearing out the junk that LOML bought for the garden that she never used, have empty shelves, and 2 big totes full of junk. What to do with those totes is another story all together…

I have a 1 cu yd bag of Cedarcide granules I need to get busy applying to the yard, a stack of trash bags from my BILs old house (when he and his ex split, she put his stuff in these trash bags…), and a couple of small coolers that need to find different homes. My drawer build can't come fast enough. That will free up another tote.

I have some tools I need to offload, and soon, just to free up space. This should be fun…

Will be posting classifieds soon…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*
> 
> Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…
> 
> My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…
> 
> I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…
> 
> The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…
> 
> I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..
> 
> I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


I have a couple areas in the garage that I would like to clear out if I ever get the time. We have done some sorting and throwing a couple years ago, but time to do more. Sherie made a lot of space just shredding old documents over the last year.

Don't know how the people that hoard can stand it, but it is easy to accumulate "stuff".


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*
> 
> Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…
> 
> My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…
> 
> I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…
> 
> The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…
> 
> I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..
> 
> I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


I woke up yesterday with my back feeling a bit out of sorts. By the time I got off work, it was way more than a bit… So Debi and I decided to go to Marios Flying Pizza in Seabrook TX and enjoyed dinner together without much hassle. We got home, and my back was screaming, so I finally gave it and took one of the muscle relaxers the doc gave me. I hate them because they make me too sleepy… Anyway I went ahead and took one of them, and sat down with Debi and watched our DVR copies of the Olympics.

I love watching the Olympics on the DVR. I can shoot right through the stuff I don't want to see. I really wanted to watch the diving, gymnastics, and canoeing / rowing stuff… The American womens (really girls but oh well) Gymnastics team was awesome. Not Kerri Strug type performance, but still awesome. This is the first time I even noticed synchronized diving, and was very impressed with the Mexican team. Those ladies really put on a good show…

By the time it got to the paddling events, the muscle relaxer had kicked in, my wife was rubbing my back, and, well… I went bye bye… Need to re-watch those events!

I was having a spirited Facebook discussion with a friend that is on the other side of the political spectrum from myself about the social implications of the Chick-Fil-A controversy. And while I don't want to start a discussion here about that whole thing, I must say no matter your perspective on the whole affair, but the turnout at those restaurants yesterday was staggering. I have 3 main routes from work to the house I can take, and all of them had traffic messed up by the event…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More on the miter / mortiser workstation...*
> 
> Last night was a very lazy night, LOML spent plenty of time snuggling up on the sofa, and, well honestly dozing off watching the Olympics… But I did get some shop time in, and was able to manage to get the shelves, shelf cleats, and front blocks for the shelves cut to size. The front blocks will live somewhere around where my shins are, so I am SERIOUSLY considering breaking out the router and relieving the corners of these things before I install them…
> 
> My construction methodology has devolved into glue and screws, which I guess is fine for shop fixtures. I really wanted to take my time and practice joinery during this build, but time is something I don't have enough of. The reason for this build is to get stuff off the wall, the reason to get stuff off the wall is to get the sheetrock off the wall, in order to allow for the electrical installation blah blah blah. You get the idea… I am sweating my tail off when I cannot run the AC in there, and I certainly do NOT want to go into another winter without insulation, or sufficient power to run the table saw AND dust collector at the same time…
> 
> I need to figure out how to remove the mortiser tool holder as I installed the wonderful thing 1/2" too high. I have considered cutting it as close as I can with my pull saw, and then hand planing the rest off, making a new one, and insuring I install it at the right height…
> 
> The fun will really start when I start buttoning up those walls with fresh sheet rock…
> 
> I am seriously looking forward to starting over as it were, with my walls as a clean slate. I have some serious dislikes about the way I spaced things, in particular my clamshell cabinets, They are way too far apart from each other, and way too far to the right. I need to move the left unit 16" further to the left, and total distance from left edge of left cab to right edge or right cab to be 8', I want as little as possible under the door track as I will be putting an 18" deep shelf on top of these cabinets acting as a bridge. Things like sandpaper and other light consumables will be on some small shelves mounted between the cabinets, and turning tools will be housed on some simple piano hinged doors held in with broom clips..
> 
> I am still debating what to do with the floor. Every time it rains, water, not much, but a tiny bit of water seeps under the bottom door seal. I am concerned that might mess with any sort of coating. And honestly, all I really think I will need is a couple more of those anti fatigue mats tossed around the shop for good measure…


I admit to watching some Olympics for the last few days, in the evening. I don't have much for favorites, but I tend to gravitate to the swimming, volleyball, and some gymnastic events. Although I probably spent more hours of my life playing basketball, than any other sport. Mostly though, not heavy into sports. And never varsity type stuff. I think the pain generated in my back (scoliosis) kind of turned me off to sports.

Chick-Fil-A….....the most interesting thing about that to me is…......I never heard about Chick-Fil-A before! What the heck is Chick-Fil-A.?........(-:

........guess I will Google it….....

Politics is one stressor I leave out of my life. Too much on my plate. At least in medicine, there is one general rule that for me is simple, and resolves most issues…......If it isn't good for the patient, then it isn't good at all.

Think the coding is done on my program. I have to revisit the undo/redo part which I tried to make too granular for this application. The code, which I wrote years ago, works good for most text processing. But this application has too many automated and convoluted intricacies in it. I will make it less granular if I can't do a quick fix this morning. A good general rule in programming is that if it is easy for the user, then it is complicated for the programmer…......meaning, if it is easy for the user, then the computer has to do more work, and since computers are completely stupid, that means you have to tell them a lot more how to get the issue at hand accomplished…......

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

*Thoughts turning to getting non shop out of my shop!*

Progress on the in shop builds is going well, taking a little bit of a breather for now to let my back catch up.

A huge storage problem for me is non shop stuff that is sucking up huge amounts of space in the shop. Now I have storage problems that there are solutions for, but that requires a bit of construction. For now I have been jettisoning any non shop, and some shop related stuff that is either no good, or exceedingly redundant such as….

#1. The 4 different spray bottles of Armor All got consolidated into the biggest bottle of Armor All.
#2. The spray bottles of tire and wheel cleaner that do absolutely nothing but suck up money and space are now gone.
#3. The bottles of Gorilla Glue that somehow got exposed to air, and thus humidity and set up like a brick in the bottle, gone…
#4. Spray paint cans that have no nozzles, or are empty or whatnot? Gone
#5. Empty 1 lb propane cylinders? Gone…
#6. The unused topsy turvy tomato plant hangers? Filled with soil, hooks installed under the soffit and tomato plant seeds shoved in the dirt. Doubt they will be anything but dirt holders this year…
#7. The fluffy stack of paper trash bags from my BILs old house. Sitting under turning blanks under my lathe to compress them into a MUCH smaller space. The space is about to be reused for auto parts…

Now don't worry, the hazardous material type stuff was collected and taken to the household hazardous material recycling center. I'm no tree hugger, but I believe in waste not want not…

Now all this consolidating is all well and good, and it will get my through my power insulation and sheet rock project, but I need somewhere to put this stuff…

I need a shed.

Not just any shed.

I have a nosy HOA, but if I play my cards right they might just play nice…

Right now I have a deck, 16' x 16' in the back yard. I hate it with a passion. It's ugly, it's never been level, and worst of all, it's in the wrong spot…

Now my HOA states that the max shed size allowed is 10×12 with a 9' roof, but I know that is a lie. The guy accross the street from me has a shed that has been there since the 1980s that is at least 16×20… I am sure I can get a waiver…

I want a 12×16 gambrel roof mini barn (the reasons for the barn will be apparent in a minute…)

The shed needs to house all the lawn and garden type stuff (12'x4' space would be more than enough.

I also need to store auto repair tools, bicycles, a LARGE New Braunfels Bandera smoker, and most importantly, I need to store my canoe, a 14' 6" Pelican Excursion and my paddling gear.

Now I want this shed, but I do NOT want to build it… Mostly because I have decided two main things…

#1. I don't really have the time to mess around with it. I have other projects that take priority, and if I have to do this myself, it is going to be years before it gets done.

#2. A local contractor I have connections to can build a top quality shed for less than I can buy the materials for… This guy built a shed for a friend of mine, and one, really a full size barn for his dad… Good work…

I need to get busy with the HOA, and LOML convincing them to like this idea…


----------



## Lifesaver2000

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts turning to getting non shop out of my shop!*
> 
> Progress on the in shop builds is going well, taking a little bit of a breather for now to let my back catch up.
> 
> A huge storage problem for me is non shop stuff that is sucking up huge amounts of space in the shop. Now I have storage problems that there are solutions for, but that requires a bit of construction. For now I have been jettisoning any non shop, and some shop related stuff that is either no good, or exceedingly redundant such as….
> 
> #1. The 4 different spray bottles of Armor All got consolidated into the biggest bottle of Armor All.
> #2. The spray bottles of tire and wheel cleaner that do absolutely nothing but suck up money and space are now gone.
> #3. The bottles of Gorilla Glue that somehow got exposed to air, and thus humidity and set up like a brick in the bottle, gone…
> #4. Spray paint cans that have no nozzles, or are empty or whatnot? Gone
> #5. Empty 1 lb propane cylinders? Gone…
> #6. The unused topsy turvy tomato plant hangers? Filled with soil, hooks installed under the soffit and tomato plant seeds shoved in the dirt. Doubt they will be anything but dirt holders this year…
> #7. The fluffy stack of paper trash bags from my BILs old house. Sitting under turning blanks under my lathe to compress them into a MUCH smaller space. The space is about to be reused for auto parts…
> 
> Now don't worry, the hazardous material type stuff was collected and taken to the household hazardous material recycling center. I'm no tree hugger, but I believe in waste not want not…
> 
> Now all this consolidating is all well and good, and it will get my through my power insulation and sheet rock project, but I need somewhere to put this stuff…
> 
> I need a shed.
> 
> Not just any shed.
> 
> I have a nosy HOA, but if I play my cards right they might just play nice…
> 
> Right now I have a deck, 16' x 16' in the back yard. I hate it with a passion. It's ugly, it's never been level, and worst of all, it's in the wrong spot…
> 
> Now my HOA states that the max shed size allowed is 10×12 with a 9' roof, but I know that is a lie. The guy accross the street from me has a shed that has been there since the 1980s that is at least 16×20… I am sure I can get a waiver…
> 
> I want a 12×16 gambrel roof mini barn (the reasons for the barn will be apparent in a minute…)
> 
> The shed needs to house all the lawn and garden type stuff (12'x4' space would be more than enough.
> 
> I also need to store auto repair tools, bicycles, a LARGE New Braunfels Bandera smoker, and most importantly, I need to store my canoe, a 14' 6" Pelican Excursion and my paddling gear.
> 
> Now I want this shed, but I do NOT want to build it… Mostly because I have decided two main things…
> 
> #1. I don't really have the time to mess around with it. I have other projects that take priority, and if I have to do this myself, it is going to be years before it gets done.
> 
> #2. A local contractor I have connections to can build a top quality shed for less than I can buy the materials for… This guy built a shed for a friend of mine, and one, really a full size barn for his dad… Good work…
> 
> I need to get busy with the HOA, and LOML convincing them to like this idea…


Last summer I built a 12' by 5' lean-to shed onto the side of my shop to get the lawn mowers and other non-woodworking items out of my 14' by 20' shop. It made a world of difference. Opened up enough room for a roll-around lumber cart and a planer, and still plenty of extra room to move around and work.

I suppose a lot of people would consider my shop tiny but after sharing half of it with John Deere for a year and a half it sure seems a lot bigger now.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts turning to getting non shop out of my shop!*
> 
> Progress on the in shop builds is going well, taking a little bit of a breather for now to let my back catch up.
> 
> A huge storage problem for me is non shop stuff that is sucking up huge amounts of space in the shop. Now I have storage problems that there are solutions for, but that requires a bit of construction. For now I have been jettisoning any non shop, and some shop related stuff that is either no good, or exceedingly redundant such as….
> 
> #1. The 4 different spray bottles of Armor All got consolidated into the biggest bottle of Armor All.
> #2. The spray bottles of tire and wheel cleaner that do absolutely nothing but suck up money and space are now gone.
> #3. The bottles of Gorilla Glue that somehow got exposed to air, and thus humidity and set up like a brick in the bottle, gone…
> #4. Spray paint cans that have no nozzles, or are empty or whatnot? Gone
> #5. Empty 1 lb propane cylinders? Gone…
> #6. The unused topsy turvy tomato plant hangers? Filled with soil, hooks installed under the soffit and tomato plant seeds shoved in the dirt. Doubt they will be anything but dirt holders this year…
> #7. The fluffy stack of paper trash bags from my BILs old house. Sitting under turning blanks under my lathe to compress them into a MUCH smaller space. The space is about to be reused for auto parts…
> 
> Now don't worry, the hazardous material type stuff was collected and taken to the household hazardous material recycling center. I'm no tree hugger, but I believe in waste not want not…
> 
> Now all this consolidating is all well and good, and it will get my through my power insulation and sheet rock project, but I need somewhere to put this stuff…
> 
> I need a shed.
> 
> Not just any shed.
> 
> I have a nosy HOA, but if I play my cards right they might just play nice…
> 
> Right now I have a deck, 16' x 16' in the back yard. I hate it with a passion. It's ugly, it's never been level, and worst of all, it's in the wrong spot…
> 
> Now my HOA states that the max shed size allowed is 10×12 with a 9' roof, but I know that is a lie. The guy accross the street from me has a shed that has been there since the 1980s that is at least 16×20… I am sure I can get a waiver…
> 
> I want a 12×16 gambrel roof mini barn (the reasons for the barn will be apparent in a minute…)
> 
> The shed needs to house all the lawn and garden type stuff (12'x4' space would be more than enough.
> 
> I also need to store auto repair tools, bicycles, a LARGE New Braunfels Bandera smoker, and most importantly, I need to store my canoe, a 14' 6" Pelican Excursion and my paddling gear.
> 
> Now I want this shed, but I do NOT want to build it… Mostly because I have decided two main things…
> 
> #1. I don't really have the time to mess around with it. I have other projects that take priority, and if I have to do this myself, it is going to be years before it gets done.
> 
> #2. A local contractor I have connections to can build a top quality shed for less than I can buy the materials for… This guy built a shed for a friend of mine, and one, really a full size barn for his dad… Good work…
> 
> I need to get busy with the HOA, and LOML convincing them to like this idea…


I am only slightly bigger than your shop at 18×20, and I have a shared space scenario that I can't get everything out. In order to bring electrical in, LOML made me agree to put the freezer in the shop…

If I thought I could get away with it, I would have a 16×20 building put out in my yard and wire THAT for electrical and use it as a shop. That is a VERY appealing thought, but I seriously doubt the HOA, or my wife would go for that!


----------



## GaryD

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts turning to getting non shop out of my shop!*
> 
> Progress on the in shop builds is going well, taking a little bit of a breather for now to let my back catch up.
> 
> A huge storage problem for me is non shop stuff that is sucking up huge amounts of space in the shop. Now I have storage problems that there are solutions for, but that requires a bit of construction. For now I have been jettisoning any non shop, and some shop related stuff that is either no good, or exceedingly redundant such as….
> 
> #1. The 4 different spray bottles of Armor All got consolidated into the biggest bottle of Armor All.
> #2. The spray bottles of tire and wheel cleaner that do absolutely nothing but suck up money and space are now gone.
> #3. The bottles of Gorilla Glue that somehow got exposed to air, and thus humidity and set up like a brick in the bottle, gone…
> #4. Spray paint cans that have no nozzles, or are empty or whatnot? Gone
> #5. Empty 1 lb propane cylinders? Gone…
> #6. The unused topsy turvy tomato plant hangers? Filled with soil, hooks installed under the soffit and tomato plant seeds shoved in the dirt. Doubt they will be anything but dirt holders this year…
> #7. The fluffy stack of paper trash bags from my BILs old house. Sitting under turning blanks under my lathe to compress them into a MUCH smaller space. The space is about to be reused for auto parts…
> 
> Now don't worry, the hazardous material type stuff was collected and taken to the household hazardous material recycling center. I'm no tree hugger, but I believe in waste not want not…
> 
> Now all this consolidating is all well and good, and it will get my through my power insulation and sheet rock project, but I need somewhere to put this stuff…
> 
> I need a shed.
> 
> Not just any shed.
> 
> I have a nosy HOA, but if I play my cards right they might just play nice…
> 
> Right now I have a deck, 16' x 16' in the back yard. I hate it with a passion. It's ugly, it's never been level, and worst of all, it's in the wrong spot…
> 
> Now my HOA states that the max shed size allowed is 10×12 with a 9' roof, but I know that is a lie. The guy accross the street from me has a shed that has been there since the 1980s that is at least 16×20… I am sure I can get a waiver…
> 
> I want a 12×16 gambrel roof mini barn (the reasons for the barn will be apparent in a minute…)
> 
> The shed needs to house all the lawn and garden type stuff (12'x4' space would be more than enough.
> 
> I also need to store auto repair tools, bicycles, a LARGE New Braunfels Bandera smoker, and most importantly, I need to store my canoe, a 14' 6" Pelican Excursion and my paddling gear.
> 
> Now I want this shed, but I do NOT want to build it… Mostly because I have decided two main things…
> 
> #1. I don't really have the time to mess around with it. I have other projects that take priority, and if I have to do this myself, it is going to be years before it gets done.
> 
> #2. A local contractor I have connections to can build a top quality shed for less than I can buy the materials for… This guy built a shed for a friend of mine, and one, really a full size barn for his dad… Good work…
> 
> I need to get busy with the HOA, and LOML convincing them to like this idea…


Dont feel bad, had to do the same thing here n SC. Had to build a 12×24 shed with and upstairs to maximize the space. Got the mower and motorcycle out of the shop and that has made a world of difference. I didnt have to go through a HOA as my neighborhood has none, Thank Goodness. Good luck with the HOA but I would be more worried bout the wife. LOL


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts turning to getting non shop out of my shop!*
> 
> Progress on the in shop builds is going well, taking a little bit of a breather for now to let my back catch up.
> 
> A huge storage problem for me is non shop stuff that is sucking up huge amounts of space in the shop. Now I have storage problems that there are solutions for, but that requires a bit of construction. For now I have been jettisoning any non shop, and some shop related stuff that is either no good, or exceedingly redundant such as….
> 
> #1. The 4 different spray bottles of Armor All got consolidated into the biggest bottle of Armor All.
> #2. The spray bottles of tire and wheel cleaner that do absolutely nothing but suck up money and space are now gone.
> #3. The bottles of Gorilla Glue that somehow got exposed to air, and thus humidity and set up like a brick in the bottle, gone…
> #4. Spray paint cans that have no nozzles, or are empty or whatnot? Gone
> #5. Empty 1 lb propane cylinders? Gone…
> #6. The unused topsy turvy tomato plant hangers? Filled with soil, hooks installed under the soffit and tomato plant seeds shoved in the dirt. Doubt they will be anything but dirt holders this year…
> #7. The fluffy stack of paper trash bags from my BILs old house. Sitting under turning blanks under my lathe to compress them into a MUCH smaller space. The space is about to be reused for auto parts…
> 
> Now don't worry, the hazardous material type stuff was collected and taken to the household hazardous material recycling center. I'm no tree hugger, but I believe in waste not want not…
> 
> Now all this consolidating is all well and good, and it will get my through my power insulation and sheet rock project, but I need somewhere to put this stuff…
> 
> I need a shed.
> 
> Not just any shed.
> 
> I have a nosy HOA, but if I play my cards right they might just play nice…
> 
> Right now I have a deck, 16' x 16' in the back yard. I hate it with a passion. It's ugly, it's never been level, and worst of all, it's in the wrong spot…
> 
> Now my HOA states that the max shed size allowed is 10×12 with a 9' roof, but I know that is a lie. The guy accross the street from me has a shed that has been there since the 1980s that is at least 16×20… I am sure I can get a waiver…
> 
> I want a 12×16 gambrel roof mini barn (the reasons for the barn will be apparent in a minute…)
> 
> The shed needs to house all the lawn and garden type stuff (12'x4' space would be more than enough.
> 
> I also need to store auto repair tools, bicycles, a LARGE New Braunfels Bandera smoker, and most importantly, I need to store my canoe, a 14' 6" Pelican Excursion and my paddling gear.
> 
> Now I want this shed, but I do NOT want to build it… Mostly because I have decided two main things…
> 
> #1. I don't really have the time to mess around with it. I have other projects that take priority, and if I have to do this myself, it is going to be years before it gets done.
> 
> #2. A local contractor I have connections to can build a top quality shed for less than I can buy the materials for… This guy built a shed for a friend of mine, and one, really a full size barn for his dad… Good work…
> 
> I need to get busy with the HOA, and LOML convincing them to like this idea…


Much more sense to put the shop in the garage, where insulation makes sense, power is near by, and it is efficient to heat and cool. A shed that would be a year round shop would essentially be a mini-house. You would even want plumbing out there…......

We have a garden shed, and that holds all the garden and yard stuff and then some. Really relieves the clutter. Seems logical to me…...........


----------



## dbhost

*Fixing another stupid mistake...*

I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…

My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…

I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


Keep on chugging. Persistance is where it is at…............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


I haven't been chugging since college. Hangovers are a terrible way to spend the next day… …

More seriously though. I have one of the clamshell cabs down now, the second one is almost ready to come down.

I I am beyond anxious to get this project done… The sonner I can get this done, the better off I am… I am a bit concerned about getting the circuit to the air compressor and dust collector run. Will talk that one out with the electrician. I want that circuit on the already insulated common wall, and am not sure what I should do about that… I don't mind patching the drywall to a certain extent… Not like I don't have plenty of practice with that…

Before I strip the sheet rock down, I am going to build my quick and dirty drawers. and put up a hose hanger for the air compressor hose.

I must admit, by the time the storage projects are done, this will be one very organized shop, which is a far cry from how it started out!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


Watching to see how it goes. Electricians are familiar with a number of options to hide and run the wire. Like going up into the attic and then down, behind baseboards etc. Let the electrian figure it out.

The big thing is to do some overkill on the number of circuits and receptacles. You never have too many. But as I recall, you had that pretty well planned out. But be sure you have lines to all walls in the garage.

A day of rest, after the weekend on call. Gotta do a few lines of code this morning, but otherwise, I won't do anything stressful or demanding today. At my age, it is all about pacing.

Later…........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


No worries… I am going to disappoint you though. I have one wall in specific I not only don't plan on, but don't want to electrify. The wall to the left as viewed from the rollup doors in, will retain the lumber racks, clamp racks, and other wall mounted storage. All of the big power tools will be toward the middle…

Basically the plan is…

1 20 amp dedicated circuit with 1 outlet box (GFCI) for the dust collector and air compressor. This will be installed in the wall in the 2.5 foot deep niche behind the toolbox. This is to allow the compressor to plug in without straining the cord. The compressor has a much longer cord…

1 20 amp dedicated circuit with a single 2 amp GFCI outlet between the garage door tracks. This is to provide sufficient power for HVAC in the shop. The AC, and Heater can be plugged in here, I also have a box fan with a 20 foot power cord that will be plugged in here. This helps move things along when I need to drop temps fast.

1 20 amp 110V power tool circuit with outlets every 6' along the side wall. The outlet box closest to the breaker panel will have the GFCI.

1 20 amp 220V power tool circuit with outlets every 6' along the wall. Not sure how to handle GFCI there. Not like they make 220V GFCI outlets that I know of…

I am keeping the overhead lighting and air filter on the house lighting circuit just to make sure if I manage to trip a breaker, I don't have spinning carbide and no light…

Tonights tasks will be slow. Just moving he few items left on the black plastic shelving unit by the wall to get stripped over to the other side, set up the Firestorm miter saw on its stand, snap some pics, snap a pic or two of the Firestorm router, and place the Craigslist ad for them… They need to leave to make room in my shop!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


Sounds fine, especially considering where you will place the tools. I too, have the lights on house panel. And with the big stuff on 220, I don't tend to pop breakers. In fact I can't remember ever doing so. But you will really like having the adequate power. One less step involved when going from tool to tool. It may even change your workflow.

Testing the program starting today, and starting to build a bunch of templates.

Late.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


Jim,

The way I figure it, all the big stuff is on the one wall, the opposing wall will be storage, and if storage leaves that area, the big stuff will be getting shoved over to make room for a car anyway…

long story short, I don't mind running power over there, I just can't think of any possible reason why I would want to. And the fewer wires in that wall, the less likely I am to run a screw into them at some date in the future…

On an unrelated note, last night was interesting. I picked LOML up from her office, and we went out for Sushi at our favorite Japanese place. Went home, talked for a bit while I threw a squeaky toy for the dog, and managed to nod off on the sofa…. I was directed to the shower and the bed early on, and just sort of crashed out. I think my body is mad at me for pushing too hard…

I made a complete mess moving the first clamshell cabinet off the wall the other day, I am going to try to straighten that out. The original 18" x 72" x 3/4" plywood shelf that covered the clamshell cabinet is likely going to end up cut up, and repurposed into drawer fronts for my miter saw bench. Might plug the screw holes (2) that held it to the cab, might not. Seems like a waste of some perfectly good oak dowel stock… Probably just fill the hole with filler, sand it smooth and call it good. IF I bother finishing this bench, it will be painted anyway…

Tonight I want to put at least an hour in out there. Do some cleanup, get the other cab off the wall , get the plastic shelf out of there, and start looking at where to stage the lathe and band saw while the wall is apart…


----------



## a1Jim

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


It's all about trial and error as to where you want or need things in your shop.it's never ending.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Fixing another stupid mistake...*
> 
> I haven't been able to spend much shop time this weekend. But what time I have been able to spend I have been using to fix mistakes. Specifically the mounting of the mortiser accessory rack too high such that the chisels would interfere with stock. I spent a few rather vigorous minutes with my Japanese pull saw cutting off the mistake, then a few more minutes cleaning the mistake up with my #4 plane. Now it's mounted lower, and in clamps waiting to dry…
> 
> My local Lowes / Home Depot stores were out of stock on a few of the pieces I needed (3 Home Depots, 2 Lowes) and won't have the items I need for at least a month… so I ordered my remaining electrical parts shy of the conduit, and 6/3 wire from Amazon…
> 
> I am so close to having this electrical / drywall / insulation job done I can taste it.


Talk about a tardy comment…..........the week has been busy. Finally it is Friday morning and I have the weekend off.

Roger on the wire to the opposite wall. The only thing I might mention, is sometimes you are working on something, not even woodwork, perhaps a car, and find you really wish you had receptacle over there. Generally, houses have them on every wall including the garage, although even in my house, there are just a few placed at the time of construction. But I find myself using everyone of them over time.

Also, oddball things find there way into shops, like clocks, stereos, fans etc. And I find I like to keep things charged up that don't really need to be handy in the shop, but still ready for use.

Not trying to convince you to do it….......but giving your brain some fodder for thought….........

My cutoff's cart is made partially of reclaimed wood. I think I will find some time in the next 10 days to finish it off. I am only working two of the next ten days…......just overdue for a break. Pacing.

It isn't your body, it's your brain that usually takes over and shuts you down….......(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*

I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.

Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…

To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…

Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…

Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…

#1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
#2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
#3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
#4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing… 
#5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this… 
#6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
#7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…

I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


Storage has to be efficient in smaller shops, meaning double garage size and under, roughly 20×20 feet. I constantly watch for ways to store things better…........

I am itching to get back in the shop and finish off my cutoffs cart, talking about storage….............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


After most of these storage projects. I have a LOT of small cutoffs, mostly plywood, that will go into the fire pit this winter.

I am half tempted to take up pen turning just to get rid of a mess of my smaller hardwood cutoffs…

Right now I have a 30 gallon galvanized trash can that I was originally going to use a a dust bin that got pressed into service as a cutoff bin… A lot of my cutoffs aren't worth much more than firewood… But some of it intrigues me enough to keep around. Particularly the walnut, pecan, and mesquite stuff… Which is terrible. Those are the ones best suited for my smoker!


----------



## Molinero

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


Hi - I read your shop tour with great interest. I am fascinated by how much of your tool inventory came from Harbor Freight. I visited them for the first time recently, and I was particularly intrigued by their clamps.

How well have the HF clamps worked? Do you have to replace them often?

Also, how well has the face vise on your workbench (also from HF) held up?

Thanks much!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


The clamps are a mixed bag.

The F style bar clamps, of which 44 of my inventory of 48, are all from Harbor Freight. In the last 5 years, I have only had to replace one, and it was bad when I picked it up (bad threads on the screw). I mail ordered my first dozen before I found a store… I HIGHLY recommend going to the HF store in person and inspecting the items you purchase…

The HF bar clamps have been spot on reliable so far, but I rarely if ever use them.

The hand screw clamps have been wonderful.

The ratcheting bar clamps have yet to fail me, but I am so afraid of breaking them I don't use hardly any pressure at all. I know there are fixes for them. I just haven't applied them. The tension is hard to adjust on them, and generally speaking I don't like them. HOWEVER I do like using them as a spreader…

The vise has been great. I did have to flatten the face with a file to even out some casting slag that wasn't ground off, and I had to clean the packing goo off of the screw. Once cleaned, flattened, cleaned and lubed, it's been a fantastic vise. The quick release has been a great feature.

Sadly, the vise was discontinued. I would be very hard pressed to replace this vise with anything under about $150.00 though…

Yes some of their stuff is utter junk. Bits, blades, and even some of the clamps. I can tell you what of theirs I do NOT recommend…

#1. Drill Master Drill bits, or the black hole saw kits. They are good for one use only, and barely marginal at that.
#2. The Quick Clamp clones. Like I mentioned above, I haven't broken one yet, but in function they feel funny, and you can just sort of tell it wants to break… The plastic pivot pin was a moronic idea on their part…
#3. The corner clamps. Bad, badder, baddest.

Honestly, I have tools from a WIDE variety of manufactuers including Snap On, Ridgid, Hitachi, Makita, as well as Ryobi, Skill, Black and Decker, and Harbor Freight's house brand. Most of my tools, powered or not, required some sort of tuning, calibration, alignment, or other setup to make it perform at a level I would expect. While there was a little more fiddling to do with some HF tools (the band saw and miter saw leap to mind), compared to say my Hitachi Routers, but overall, I have not had a bad experience with their stuff and would buy it again if the same thing was available..


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


I always grin when reading your defense of Harbor Freight.

I appreciate your attitude, because I grew up that way, where you just made do with what you had.

Guess it is the self sufficient individualist in me…......just doing stuff the hard way because it can be done, without megabucks. My old main power saws especially come to mind. I would probably have to bury them with a ceremony if I replaced them…........(-:

Oh well, don't have to preach to you….......

Had a run in with my brother today on email…......very sad. I have to set limits in my life…......getting old…

You will find that getting old involves marshalling diminishing energy. I continue to contribute to society, but I cannot if I lose focus, because I don't have the energy to waste anymore. So, there are some things I don't even want to talk about…......like politics and religion…...have to focus…......

Enjoying your blog…........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


Jim,

It's not that I wouldn't love to own a shop full of name brand stuff. But I just can't see spending more money on anything because it has a fancy name on it. My HF lathe for example, does everything the same way, with no more headaches than the Jet lathe it copies. Both are made in Taiwan, so why pay more just to get the Jet name?

But there are areas where I am willing to spend a bit more to get the features I want. The Ridgid Oscillating sander instead of the HF sander for example. The Ridgid was $159.00 (Fathers Day Sale a few years ago), and the HF would have been $79.00 after coupon. But the HF lacked the features I wanted such as a tilting table, and the edge belt sanding function.

My Hitachi routers on the other hand were a steal and I like to brag about my $99.00 purchase price on them wherever I can. I just try to forget I wasted money on a B&D router at all…

Have issues with my brothers as well. One in particular. He and I are of different religious points of view, and he is simply convinced I am wrong and must be corrected. And while I do not have a PhD in Divinity, I am well studied (2 associates degrees, 1 B.A., and a thick stack of professional certifications, not to mention plenty of independent study on topics that interest me), as is my brother. We simply do not come to the same conclusion based on the evidence presented to us. Sooo… when the topic comes up, I try, but don't always succeed in keeping the conversation in areas of commonality, or I steer it completely away from the topic at hand into something neutral… You'd be amazed how many conversations start out about a talk Father so and so gave that ends up being how Aunt so and so is doing and what ever happened to the crazy cousin that wrapped his Camaro around a fence in high school…

I guess what I am trying to get at is, with tools, as well as with relationships, you can stress over what's not perfect, and what isn't there, and make yourself and everyone around you absolutely miserable, (gee the paint on that clamp looks like it was dipped in paint instead of nicely sprayed on oh the humanity!) or you can concentrate on the positive, and see the best in everything possible…

Sometimes being positive and seeing the best is somewhat negative though. For example, there are people that I am positively giddy are no longer intruding into my life. Sometimes the best way certain people can bless us is by making themselves vacant in our lives… Such as former friends that decide to get into criminal endeavors, or ex spouses. (I am using extreme examples here, but you get the idea). Sadly I think for the most part, we are stuck with the crazy relatives…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the wall... Moving the clamshell cabs...*
> 
> I spent the time I had expected last night, clearing out the remaining clam shell cabinet, and getting it off the wall, and on to the floor. I made some discoveries while I was there.
> 
> Once everything was taken off the peg hooks, and laid down in a single layer, it covered the entire top surface of my table saw, and the majority of the surface of my workbench. This is a space of 6' x 8' covered with everything from pnuematic nailer nail boxes and nailers, to measuring and marking tools. I must admit I am a little bit taken aback by the sheer volume of items stashed in these things. I guess I never gave it much thought as to what was actually going in there…
> 
> To actually keep things relatively orderly, I started putting things back into the clam shell cabinets, and just have the top of the table saw left to clear out. This will be important this upcoming weekend as I want to cut the drawer fronts for my miter saw stand this weekend…
> 
> Digging through my scrap bins, it looks like I have enough left over 3/4" plywood stock of sufficient size that I will be able to build the drawer boxes without buying any more 3/4" ply. Now I want to use 3/8" bottoms, but that is plenty cheap…
> 
> Items remaining on the wall that is to be worked on are…
> 
> #1. 5 tier large black plastic shelving unit. Not quite empty yet. Once empty, it will be disassembled and put up in the attic for temp storage.
> #2. Bottom shelf full of auto jack stands, recovery straps, spare tiles, new oil filters for the vehicles, and a couple of gallons of primer. These will be moved to the other one, the one on the other wall holding lawn and garden junk.
> #3. Top shelf housing my B&D Firestorm 10" miter saw This will be hitting the used market along with its stand, and a Firestorm plunge router, within the next week or so… Just need one screw for the stand, and to snap some pics…
> #4. My old B&D pressure washer and accessories. Once I get the trees down in the back yard and hauled off, I am going to use a bunch of deck wash, and this pressure washer to try to bring my deck back to life. I probably need to replace a few boards on this thing…
> #5. Whole house water softener, and reverse osmosis filtration system. This can't be moved. It stands 4.5" away from the sheetrock, the pipes going into the sheetrock… Will rock around this…
> #6. Dust collection plumbing. To be marked, and removed in large segments such that I will reassemble it as it came out. This will be done the weekend before the install. Like on the Friday night.
> #7. Dust collector and stand. Again, this will be removed the weekend before the install. That same weekend the sheet rock comes down en masse…
> 
> I have been mulling over my drill press storage cabinet build to do after this is done. Now I need to find 1/2" maple faced plywood!


Fortunately, the only relatives that I really have to deal with on a regular basis are Sherie's handicapped daughter, and Sherie's mother. The daughter is a perpetual child, so you just learn to deal with it, and because she can't do things differently, she is easy on the psyche.

Sherie's mother fortunately is just a nice person. Period. Need more of those around.

My brother is thousand's of miles away, so I can deal with him as I need to. Most of the time he is fine, but he has way too much time on his hands…........

Work keeps me a little more down to earth, and less intense in my non-working pursuits, I expect.

My brother had a strong impact on my life as I grew up, so I always have an emotional response to him, kind of like you might get with parents. But he is OCD, and intelligent, and when he gets onto something, he will try everything to batter his way through, and try to prove that he is right.

I am less into trying to be right, and more into relationships and getting along. My job is about being darn close to perfect, and I don't need that in the rest of my life. My job probably provides a lot of satisfaction that others don't get from their working world. So I invest less in my nonworking pursuits, and mostly just have fun. Although my idea of fun may not be someone elses idea of a pleasurable pursuit.

I am looking forward to the next 10 days, with only two of those 10 days at work. Only thing on the agenda is trying to figure out a strange glitch in a TV-Receiver relationship in the kitchen-dining room, that seems to elude solution.

So maybe I will catch up with my email for awhile….......(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Of all the stupid things. Peg hooks.*

Okay I must admit, one of my main frustrations in my shop is peg hooks. Now I am not one of those that hates peg board and wish harmful things to those that invented, make, and market the stuff. I actually love pegboard, and the little hooks that go with it. It's just the way those hooks are typically marketed that drives me nuts.

You see most of the big box stores have either the size hook you want a piece at a time at an insanely high price, like 2" hooks for $1.89, or they will sell you multi packs that include one or two of the hooks you want, and about 30 hooks you will never use for $3.89 sort of thing…

Thank goodness for Amazon.com, ebay, and other online retailers for letting me find, and buy multi packs of just the hooks I want. I mentioned the 2" hooks above for a reason. They are the perfect size for my clamshell cabinets, and work very easily for my organization needs without having TONS of extra hook protruding from the cabinet.

So now I have a table saw full of stuff that came off the clamshell cab, about 100 new to me peg hooks, and an empty clamshell cabinet on the floor. Sadly, I know what I need to do…

Spend some quality time setting the new pegs in place, and putting things back into the cabinets NOW.

I still need to move the few remaining pieces off of the errant plastic shelving unit, and stow some items in the attic, but I am inching closer by the day… Before long, I will have a fully powered, insulated and HVAC'ed shop…

This is going to be great!


----------



## chrisstef

dbhost said:


> *Of all the stupid things. Peg hooks.*
> 
> Okay I must admit, one of my main frustrations in my shop is peg hooks. Now I am not one of those that hates peg board and wish harmful things to those that invented, make, and market the stuff. I actually love pegboard, and the little hooks that go with it. It's just the way those hooks are typically marketed that drives me nuts.
> 
> You see most of the big box stores have either the size hook you want a piece at a time at an insanely high price, like 2" hooks for $1.89, or they will sell you multi packs that include one or two of the hooks you want, and about 30 hooks you will never use for $3.89 sort of thing…
> 
> Thank goodness for Amazon.com, ebay, and other online retailers for letting me find, and buy multi packs of just the hooks I want. I mentioned the 2" hooks above for a reason. They are the perfect size for my clamshell cabinets, and work very easily for my organization needs without having TONS of extra hook protruding from the cabinet.
> 
> So now I have a table saw full of stuff that came off the clamshell cab, about 100 new to me peg hooks, and an empty clamshell cabinet on the floor. Sadly, I know what I need to do…
> 
> Spend some quality time setting the new pegs in place, and putting things back into the cabinets NOW.
> 
> I still need to move the few remaining pieces off of the errant plastic shelving unit, and stow some items in the attic, but I am inching closer by the day… Before long, I will have a fully powered, insulated and HVAC'ed shop…
> 
> This is going to be great!


Shangri La is not far away my friend ….


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Of all the stupid things. Peg hooks.*
> 
> Okay I must admit, one of my main frustrations in my shop is peg hooks. Now I am not one of those that hates peg board and wish harmful things to those that invented, make, and market the stuff. I actually love pegboard, and the little hooks that go with it. It's just the way those hooks are typically marketed that drives me nuts.
> 
> You see most of the big box stores have either the size hook you want a piece at a time at an insanely high price, like 2" hooks for $1.89, or they will sell you multi packs that include one or two of the hooks you want, and about 30 hooks you will never use for $3.89 sort of thing…
> 
> Thank goodness for Amazon.com, ebay, and other online retailers for letting me find, and buy multi packs of just the hooks I want. I mentioned the 2" hooks above for a reason. They are the perfect size for my clamshell cabinets, and work very easily for my organization needs without having TONS of extra hook protruding from the cabinet.
> 
> So now I have a table saw full of stuff that came off the clamshell cab, about 100 new to me peg hooks, and an empty clamshell cabinet on the floor. Sadly, I know what I need to do…
> 
> Spend some quality time setting the new pegs in place, and putting things back into the cabinets NOW.
> 
> I still need to move the few remaining pieces off of the errant plastic shelving unit, and stow some items in the attic, but I am inching closer by the day… Before long, I will have a fully powered, insulated and HVAC'ed shop…
> 
> This is going to be great!


I use a lot of peg hooks at both shops, and they always kinda…......hmmmmmmm…..piss me off. Something is wrong every time I swear, but eventually I work it out and everything is hanging from them. So I share your frustration, and when you finally find the right hooks, it works out well. I use a fair number of custom holders on those peg boards as well. Taking an afternoon off and doing lots of nothing. Certainly nothing important.


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Of all the stupid things. Peg hooks.*
> 
> Okay I must admit, one of my main frustrations in my shop is peg hooks. Now I am not one of those that hates peg board and wish harmful things to those that invented, make, and market the stuff. I actually love pegboard, and the little hooks that go with it. It's just the way those hooks are typically marketed that drives me nuts.
> 
> You see most of the big box stores have either the size hook you want a piece at a time at an insanely high price, like 2" hooks for $1.89, or they will sell you multi packs that include one or two of the hooks you want, and about 30 hooks you will never use for $3.89 sort of thing…
> 
> Thank goodness for Amazon.com, ebay, and other online retailers for letting me find, and buy multi packs of just the hooks I want. I mentioned the 2" hooks above for a reason. They are the perfect size for my clamshell cabinets, and work very easily for my organization needs without having TONS of extra hook protruding from the cabinet.
> 
> So now I have a table saw full of stuff that came off the clamshell cab, about 100 new to me peg hooks, and an empty clamshell cabinet on the floor. Sadly, I know what I need to do…
> 
> Spend some quality time setting the new pegs in place, and putting things back into the cabinets NOW.
> 
> I still need to move the few remaining pieces off of the errant plastic shelving unit, and stow some items in the attic, but I am inching closer by the day… Before long, I will have a fully powered, insulated and HVAC'ed shop…
> 
> This is going to be great!


Glad to hear you are one your way to happiness…................but surely you are missing the point? lol If you didn't have to worry about pegs/hooks and storgae you wouldn't be a proper woodworking hobbiest???

Most of my time in my shop is spent organising and reorganising stuff, making beautiful items from wood doesn't even come close to being the most time consuming actiity in my shop.

If i wasn't out there fiddling with stuff I would be slumped on the sofa watching the brain drain or getting under SWMBO'ds feet.

I know what I'd much rather be doing!

David


----------



## dbhost

*Filling the clamshell cabinets to clear up space, and cleaning out racks.*

Last night was relatively productive. I finished re-loading the clamshell cabinets. However somehow this time, I seem to have come up with a more efficient peg configuration than I had previously, It may be the new hooks, but WAY more stuff fits now. I am going to take photos of the layouts so I can re-stuff the cabs this way when they go back on the wall…

Once the clamshell cabs were done, I started reorganizing things on the lawn and garden shelving, and made more space for the remaining items in the black plastic shelving unit in the shop… I have more to go, like leftover tile, however LOML and I BOTH hate the tile we have in the house so I am wondering why even bother. I should get rid of it…

I have several items that I need to get rid of that I have not yet put on Craigslist, most notably my old B&D Firestorm miter saw and stand, and the Firestorm router. I have offered them up to my church as donations if they can use them. If they don't need it, I will post them on Craigslist and dump them off…

I have decided to break down the original miter saw hood to harvest and recycle the lumber from it. At the very least, I can use some of it for drawer sides / backs for my new miter saw bench… Still need material for the bottoms though…

I had a couple of soft sided beer coolers I use for fishing trips that got moved up to the attic (I am going to have to end up redoing the attic stairs soon I fear!). I have the coolers I prefer folded up under the back seat of the truck anyway…

I have some appliance repair to do here as soon as parts come in (dryer blew out again) and a dryer vent I am getting cleaned because obviously I am not getting it sufficiently clean… This is the third time the hi limit fuse has blown out… And there is very, very little lint in the dryer itself…

We are getting closer, inch, by inch… And with that comes the next issue… What the heck to do with the lawn and garden stuff? LOML and I hired a service, so I really don't use most of it any more… But I hate to get rid of it. Might just be time to build that shed after all…

As soon as the lathe, and band saw are out of the way, and the DC ducting is down and stowed, I am going to start taking pics of the demolition phase… Sheetock is coming down soon!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Filling the clamshell cabinets to clear up space, and cleaning out racks.*
> 
> Last night was relatively productive. I finished re-loading the clamshell cabinets. However somehow this time, I seem to have come up with a more efficient peg configuration than I had previously, It may be the new hooks, but WAY more stuff fits now. I am going to take photos of the layouts so I can re-stuff the cabs this way when they go back on the wall…
> 
> Once the clamshell cabs were done, I started reorganizing things on the lawn and garden shelving, and made more space for the remaining items in the black plastic shelving unit in the shop… I have more to go, like leftover tile, however LOML and I BOTH hate the tile we have in the house so I am wondering why even bother. I should get rid of it…
> 
> I have several items that I need to get rid of that I have not yet put on Craigslist, most notably my old B&D Firestorm miter saw and stand, and the Firestorm router. I have offered them up to my church as donations if they can use them. If they don't need it, I will post them on Craigslist and dump them off…
> 
> I have decided to break down the original miter saw hood to harvest and recycle the lumber from it. At the very least, I can use some of it for drawer sides / backs for my new miter saw bench… Still need material for the bottoms though…
> 
> I had a couple of soft sided beer coolers I use for fishing trips that got moved up to the attic (I am going to have to end up redoing the attic stairs soon I fear!). I have the coolers I prefer folded up under the back seat of the truck anyway…
> 
> I have some appliance repair to do here as soon as parts come in (dryer blew out again) and a dryer vent I am getting cleaned because obviously I am not getting it sufficiently clean… This is the third time the hi limit fuse has blown out… And there is very, very little lint in the dryer itself…
> 
> We are getting closer, inch, by inch… And with that comes the next issue… What the heck to do with the lawn and garden stuff? LOML and I hired a service, so I really don't use most of it any more… But I hate to get rid of it. Might just be time to build that shed after all…
> 
> As soon as the lathe, and band saw are out of the way, and the DC ducting is down and stowed, I am going to start taking pics of the demolition phase… Sheetock is coming down soon!


Taking a couple days off, which, including my ususal 3 day weekend makes five days. By the quirks of things, there has been too much time between longer vacations, and just needed a break.

I have owned a couple of those metal sheds you buy at the hardware store, and they do work for a number of years. The shed we have now is much better however, and was custom built from wood (hired that out). Nothing beats wood for appearance and long term utility. You might throw something together that is meant to be temporary, so you could make it easy to break down and reuse the wood at a later date in the real shed…..........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Filling the clamshell cabinets to clear up space, and cleaning out racks.*
> 
> Last night was relatively productive. I finished re-loading the clamshell cabinets. However somehow this time, I seem to have come up with a more efficient peg configuration than I had previously, It may be the new hooks, but WAY more stuff fits now. I am going to take photos of the layouts so I can re-stuff the cabs this way when they go back on the wall…
> 
> Once the clamshell cabs were done, I started reorganizing things on the lawn and garden shelving, and made more space for the remaining items in the black plastic shelving unit in the shop… I have more to go, like leftover tile, however LOML and I BOTH hate the tile we have in the house so I am wondering why even bother. I should get rid of it…
> 
> I have several items that I need to get rid of that I have not yet put on Craigslist, most notably my old B&D Firestorm miter saw and stand, and the Firestorm router. I have offered them up to my church as donations if they can use them. If they don't need it, I will post them on Craigslist and dump them off…
> 
> I have decided to break down the original miter saw hood to harvest and recycle the lumber from it. At the very least, I can use some of it for drawer sides / backs for my new miter saw bench… Still need material for the bottoms though…
> 
> I had a couple of soft sided beer coolers I use for fishing trips that got moved up to the attic (I am going to have to end up redoing the attic stairs soon I fear!). I have the coolers I prefer folded up under the back seat of the truck anyway…
> 
> I have some appliance repair to do here as soon as parts come in (dryer blew out again) and a dryer vent I am getting cleaned because obviously I am not getting it sufficiently clean… This is the third time the hi limit fuse has blown out… And there is very, very little lint in the dryer itself…
> 
> We are getting closer, inch, by inch… And with that comes the next issue… What the heck to do with the lawn and garden stuff? LOML and I hired a service, so I really don't use most of it any more… But I hate to get rid of it. Might just be time to build that shed after all…
> 
> As soon as the lathe, and band saw are out of the way, and the DC ducting is down and stowed, I am going to start taking pics of the demolition phase… Sheetock is coming down soon!


When I was typing up my blog entry yesterday, I had some ideas, maybe good, maybe horrible, not sure. But ideas none the less that would solve the problem at hand… Specifically, I have the "ugly side" of the privacy fence on my lot. My neighbor has a fence based shed on his side of the line, that he uses as a small garden shed. I was thinking of doing something similar, just making sure that the roof / slope does NOT go over the top of the fence to avoid any possible HOA issues, I could literally get away with building pole supports, a small roof, and a locking door. Lay down a gravel floor and make sure it locks. It doesn't have to be water tight, just keep the majority of stormy stuff out. This would help me make better use out of an otherwise wasted area of lot anyway.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Filling the clamshell cabinets to clear up space, and cleaning out racks.*
> 
> Last night was relatively productive. I finished re-loading the clamshell cabinets. However somehow this time, I seem to have come up with a more efficient peg configuration than I had previously, It may be the new hooks, but WAY more stuff fits now. I am going to take photos of the layouts so I can re-stuff the cabs this way when they go back on the wall…
> 
> Once the clamshell cabs were done, I started reorganizing things on the lawn and garden shelving, and made more space for the remaining items in the black plastic shelving unit in the shop… I have more to go, like leftover tile, however LOML and I BOTH hate the tile we have in the house so I am wondering why even bother. I should get rid of it…
> 
> I have several items that I need to get rid of that I have not yet put on Craigslist, most notably my old B&D Firestorm miter saw and stand, and the Firestorm router. I have offered them up to my church as donations if they can use them. If they don't need it, I will post them on Craigslist and dump them off…
> 
> I have decided to break down the original miter saw hood to harvest and recycle the lumber from it. At the very least, I can use some of it for drawer sides / backs for my new miter saw bench… Still need material for the bottoms though…
> 
> I had a couple of soft sided beer coolers I use for fishing trips that got moved up to the attic (I am going to have to end up redoing the attic stairs soon I fear!). I have the coolers I prefer folded up under the back seat of the truck anyway…
> 
> I have some appliance repair to do here as soon as parts come in (dryer blew out again) and a dryer vent I am getting cleaned because obviously I am not getting it sufficiently clean… This is the third time the hi limit fuse has blown out… And there is very, very little lint in the dryer itself…
> 
> We are getting closer, inch, by inch… And with that comes the next issue… What the heck to do with the lawn and garden stuff? LOML and I hired a service, so I really don't use most of it any more… But I hate to get rid of it. Might just be time to build that shed after all…
> 
> As soon as the lathe, and band saw are out of the way, and the DC ducting is down and stowed, I am going to start taking pics of the demolition phase… Sheetock is coming down soon!


That sounds like a plan. Just keep it simple, use screws instead of nails. It would be something you could tear down quickly without destroying the wood, if you decided to do something different later. Use a penetrating stain /sealer like Olympic and then you could paint over the wood when you reused it. In your climate, I would buy treated wood and stain the pieces before construction. Aluminum or fiberglass corrugated roof. Bet you could build it in a day.


----------



## dbhost

*Getting stuff out of the way...*

I finally did it. I got the black plastic shelving unit cleared off 100%, broken down, and bagged / taped up. It now needs to get stashed in the attic until the shed gets built.

I have also started pulling nails that are in the original sheetrock out. The deal is that the wall is supposed to be devoid of sheetrock on the day of installation.

Part of the cleanout / making room is getting rid of surplus tools. I have been trying to get rid of my firestorm miter saw, stand, and router along with a few other bits and pieces, but no takers. Looking at Craigslist, it is easy to see why. There is a glut of miter saws on the used market right now… If I can't sell, or donate to a good cause, I will have to stash this upstairs too, at least until the walls are buttoned up again…

Next Friday I buy the rest of the material to finish up my miter saw bench drawers. I have opted for cost, and speed sake to just use wooden drawer slides. I have also noticed that my center divider is off by 3/16" meaning drawers on one side need to be a total of 3/8" narrower than the other. Oops… Not a huge deal though… I can muddle through it. Once I get through this, and get the last two totes emptied and out of the way, I can start taking down the DC ducting, and move the dust collector, lathe, and band saw. Then comes the ripping sheetrock out part (over the holiday weekend woo hoo!)

I have done my shopping list for the sheet rock, insulation, mud, paint etc… to complete the insualtion / drywalling of the garage, and I have about $300.00 left to go, assuming I go with a premium primer / paint combo. I want a simple Semi Gloss finish. I don't want satin as I think that wouldn't do well for light in the shop, and the semi gloss will help with cleanup over the long haul… I can cut costs down with a cheaper paint, but I might save $20.00 total. Big whoop…

I have already convinced my lovely bride I need help hanging sheet rock, so I need to add some funds to that project. My friends work for beer, and they don't drink Bud Light… Good beers get expensive fast!


----------



## BTimmons

dbhost said:


> *Getting stuff out of the way...*
> 
> I finally did it. I got the black plastic shelving unit cleared off 100%, broken down, and bagged / taped up. It now needs to get stashed in the attic until the shed gets built.
> 
> I have also started pulling nails that are in the original sheetrock out. The deal is that the wall is supposed to be devoid of sheetrock on the day of installation.
> 
> Part of the cleanout / making room is getting rid of surplus tools. I have been trying to get rid of my firestorm miter saw, stand, and router along with a few other bits and pieces, but no takers. Looking at Craigslist, it is easy to see why. There is a glut of miter saws on the used market right now… If I can't sell, or donate to a good cause, I will have to stash this upstairs too, at least until the walls are buttoned up again…
> 
> Next Friday I buy the rest of the material to finish up my miter saw bench drawers. I have opted for cost, and speed sake to just use wooden drawer slides. I have also noticed that my center divider is off by 3/16" meaning drawers on one side need to be a total of 3/8" narrower than the other. Oops… Not a huge deal though… I can muddle through it. Once I get through this, and get the last two totes emptied and out of the way, I can start taking down the DC ducting, and move the dust collector, lathe, and band saw. Then comes the ripping sheetrock out part (over the holiday weekend woo hoo!)
> 
> I have done my shopping list for the sheet rock, insulation, mud, paint etc… to complete the insualtion / drywalling of the garage, and I have about $300.00 left to go, assuming I go with a premium primer / paint combo. I want a simple Semi Gloss finish. I don't want satin as I think that wouldn't do well for light in the shop, and the semi gloss will help with cleanup over the long haul… I can cut costs down with a cheaper paint, but I might save $20.00 total. Big whoop…
> 
> I have already convinced my lovely bride I need help hanging sheet rock, so I need to add some funds to that project. My friends work for beer, and they don't drink Bud Light… Good beers get expensive fast!


Can't fault your friends for avoiding Bud Light. Either way, it's nice to have help.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Getting stuff out of the way...*
> 
> I finally did it. I got the black plastic shelving unit cleared off 100%, broken down, and bagged / taped up. It now needs to get stashed in the attic until the shed gets built.
> 
> I have also started pulling nails that are in the original sheetrock out. The deal is that the wall is supposed to be devoid of sheetrock on the day of installation.
> 
> Part of the cleanout / making room is getting rid of surplus tools. I have been trying to get rid of my firestorm miter saw, stand, and router along with a few other bits and pieces, but no takers. Looking at Craigslist, it is easy to see why. There is a glut of miter saws on the used market right now… If I can't sell, or donate to a good cause, I will have to stash this upstairs too, at least until the walls are buttoned up again…
> 
> Next Friday I buy the rest of the material to finish up my miter saw bench drawers. I have opted for cost, and speed sake to just use wooden drawer slides. I have also noticed that my center divider is off by 3/16" meaning drawers on one side need to be a total of 3/8" narrower than the other. Oops… Not a huge deal though… I can muddle through it. Once I get through this, and get the last two totes emptied and out of the way, I can start taking down the DC ducting, and move the dust collector, lathe, and band saw. Then comes the ripping sheetrock out part (over the holiday weekend woo hoo!)
> 
> I have done my shopping list for the sheet rock, insulation, mud, paint etc… to complete the insualtion / drywalling of the garage, and I have about $300.00 left to go, assuming I go with a premium primer / paint combo. I want a simple Semi Gloss finish. I don't want satin as I think that wouldn't do well for light in the shop, and the semi gloss will help with cleanup over the long haul… I can cut costs down with a cheaper paint, but I might save $20.00 total. Big whoop…
> 
> I have already convinced my lovely bride I need help hanging sheet rock, so I need to add some funds to that project. My friends work for beer, and they don't drink Bud Light… Good beers get expensive fast!


Save your back…......buy the beer…........quick job…......more beer….........sounds like fun besides!

Just think, get the sheetrock hung while having fun…........(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Getting stuff out of the way...*
> 
> I finally did it. I got the black plastic shelving unit cleared off 100%, broken down, and bagged / taped up. It now needs to get stashed in the attic until the shed gets built.
> 
> I have also started pulling nails that are in the original sheetrock out. The deal is that the wall is supposed to be devoid of sheetrock on the day of installation.
> 
> Part of the cleanout / making room is getting rid of surplus tools. I have been trying to get rid of my firestorm miter saw, stand, and router along with a few other bits and pieces, but no takers. Looking at Craigslist, it is easy to see why. There is a glut of miter saws on the used market right now… If I can't sell, or donate to a good cause, I will have to stash this upstairs too, at least until the walls are buttoned up again…
> 
> Next Friday I buy the rest of the material to finish up my miter saw bench drawers. I have opted for cost, and speed sake to just use wooden drawer slides. I have also noticed that my center divider is off by 3/16" meaning drawers on one side need to be a total of 3/8" narrower than the other. Oops… Not a huge deal though… I can muddle through it. Once I get through this, and get the last two totes emptied and out of the way, I can start taking down the DC ducting, and move the dust collector, lathe, and band saw. Then comes the ripping sheetrock out part (over the holiday weekend woo hoo!)
> 
> I have done my shopping list for the sheet rock, insulation, mud, paint etc… to complete the insualtion / drywalling of the garage, and I have about $300.00 left to go, assuming I go with a premium primer / paint combo. I want a simple Semi Gloss finish. I don't want satin as I think that wouldn't do well for light in the shop, and the semi gloss will help with cleanup over the long haul… I can cut costs down with a cheaper paint, but I might save $20.00 total. Big whoop…
> 
> I have already convinced my lovely bride I need help hanging sheet rock, so I need to add some funds to that project. My friends work for beer, and they don't drink Bud Light… Good beers get expensive fast!


Already have $100.00 beer / tacos budgeted. A case of Shiner Bock, big old batch of home made and fajitas…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Getting stuff out of the way...*
> 
> I finally did it. I got the black plastic shelving unit cleared off 100%, broken down, and bagged / taped up. It now needs to get stashed in the attic until the shed gets built.
> 
> I have also started pulling nails that are in the original sheetrock out. The deal is that the wall is supposed to be devoid of sheetrock on the day of installation.
> 
> Part of the cleanout / making room is getting rid of surplus tools. I have been trying to get rid of my firestorm miter saw, stand, and router along with a few other bits and pieces, but no takers. Looking at Craigslist, it is easy to see why. There is a glut of miter saws on the used market right now… If I can't sell, or donate to a good cause, I will have to stash this upstairs too, at least until the walls are buttoned up again…
> 
> Next Friday I buy the rest of the material to finish up my miter saw bench drawers. I have opted for cost, and speed sake to just use wooden drawer slides. I have also noticed that my center divider is off by 3/16" meaning drawers on one side need to be a total of 3/8" narrower than the other. Oops… Not a huge deal though… I can muddle through it. Once I get through this, and get the last two totes emptied and out of the way, I can start taking down the DC ducting, and move the dust collector, lathe, and band saw. Then comes the ripping sheetrock out part (over the holiday weekend woo hoo!)
> 
> I have done my shopping list for the sheet rock, insulation, mud, paint etc… to complete the insualtion / drywalling of the garage, and I have about $300.00 left to go, assuming I go with a premium primer / paint combo. I want a simple Semi Gloss finish. I don't want satin as I think that wouldn't do well for light in the shop, and the semi gloss will help with cleanup over the long haul… I can cut costs down with a cheaper paint, but I might save $20.00 total. Big whoop…
> 
> I have already convinced my lovely bride I need help hanging sheet rock, so I need to add some funds to that project. My friends work for beer, and they don't drink Bud Light… Good beers get expensive fast!


OK…........let's roll…......

Have fun….....


----------



## dbhost

*Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*

So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.

As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!

Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…

22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…

By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.

My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).

I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


----------



## NormG

dbhost said:


> *Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*
> 
> So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.
> 
> As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!
> 
> Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…
> 
> 22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…
> 
> By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.
> 
> My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).
> 
> I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


Congrats and hope all goes well


----------



## chopnhack

dbhost said:


> *Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*
> 
> So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.
> 
> As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!
> 
> Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…
> 
> 22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…
> 
> By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.
> 
> My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).
> 
> I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


Take photos of the wiring before you rock it back up…. comes in handy later


----------



## patron

dbhost said:


> *Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*
> 
> So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.
> 
> As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!
> 
> Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…
> 
> 22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…
> 
> By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.
> 
> My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).
> 
> I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


i posted here earlier
guess it didn't take
the site was tweaking at the time

new all around
happy for you


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*
> 
> So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.
> 
> As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!
> 
> Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…
> 
> 22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…
> 
> By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.
> 
> My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).
> 
> I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


I can give you moral support, but too far away otherwise. In Washington at our vacation home for a couple of weeks. May get some shop time in today. Basically still building the shop, although I have one small project to do this week….....a small shelf type unit that sits on the floor and holds the cable modem, router, and security internet interface. You will never figure out how you put up with an extension cord to run your shop, once the power is in…......

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*
> 
> So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.
> 
> As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!
> 
> Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…
> 
> 22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…
> 
> By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.
> 
> My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).
> 
> I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


Just talked with the electrician, I am going to have to wait another week due to scheduling problems… Yuck.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Spent a sweaty, hard work day ripping out walls. Can't wait for Friday!*
> 
> So yesterday was Columbus Day, which for my job is a paid holiday. I used it well.
> 
> As Sunday was spent cleaning up the area, I had everything off the wall, and ready to go. Then yesterday came and whamo!
> 
> Yep took the old mallet through the wall board and started yanking…
> 
> 22.5' total of wall yanked out rather unceremoniously. Now the western wall in my garage is ready for the electrician to come in Friday…
> 
> By Friday evening I should have my inspection done and power back on. Very cool. Dedicated line for Dust Collector / Air compressor, dedicated line to HVAC, and another to misc 110V / 220V tools in the shop.
> 
> My next step is to insualte the wall, and button it back up sheet rock wise… making sure that I make the locations of the studs dead apparent. The clamshell cabinet, and tool stacker arrangement will rely on that. Yes I am moving my tool stacker over one wall The reasoning behind this, I want the other wall dedicated to lumber storage, and lawn & garden (until the shed gets build, then lawn & garden goes away…).
> 
> I really could use some help hanging this sheet rock… Anyone in the Houston metro area want to give a hand?


Speaking of electricity, this mornings project at the vacation home is to put in a 240 V circuit for a space heater. I need something to take the chill off, especially in the winter, in the garage. The hotwater heater and the furnace are in the garage, and they help the heating some. Also, there is living space overhead and against one wall. But when it gets too cold out, it gets a little too cold for comfort. I am really spoiled by the Anchorage garage, which sits at 68 to 70 degrees all year round, with no heating elements running. It gets its heat from the hotwater baseboard piping as it wends its way to the house from the furnace. It is just serendipity, that the temperature ends up around 70.

Fortunately, the panel is in the garage right beside the shop, so I just run a few feet wire to the next stud space over. I put a permanent access panel in last year just above the electric panel to make this an easy project.

Hope that electrician gets there soon, you need some juice!!


----------



## dbhost

*The power is in!*

I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.

Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.

The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…

It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…

Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


----------



## patron

dbhost said:


> *The power is in!*
> 
> I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.
> 
> Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.
> 
> The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…
> 
> It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…
> 
> Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


glad you made it over that hump

a real relief to know
you are safe
and with lot's of power to spare

well done

where is the next project
surely you aren't just 
sitting there looking at the new outlets lol


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The power is in!*
> 
> I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.
> 
> Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.
> 
> The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…
> 
> It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…
> 
> Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


Insulation and sheet rock.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The power is in!*
> 
> I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.
> 
> Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.
> 
> The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…
> 
> It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…
> 
> Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


Oh for what it's worth, the GFCIs that were installed, have status LEDs, they are kind of fun to watch with the lights out… But then again, I am easily entertained.


----------



## NormG

dbhost said:


> *The power is in!*
> 
> I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.
> 
> Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.
> 
> The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…
> 
> It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…
> 
> Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


Great movement, electric is always a plus. I run to power cords from my panel to my shop


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *The power is in!*
> 
> I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.
> 
> Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.
> 
> The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…
> 
> It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…
> 
> Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


Kinda bizzare to me as we only have 240V domestic supply so don't have to worry about rewiring for heavy load tools.

Glad to hear you are all up and running.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The power is in!*
> 
> I waited a few days until folks had a chance to read Ms. Debbie's interview, but the long, long, long awaited sub panel and circuit install is DONE.
> 
> Due to storm damage to the main, and a desire to up the service from the electric company, we upped the service to 200 amps, and installed a new 200 amp main panel. The original was in pretty poor shape. The new one has PLENTY of spare slots for new circuits if desired.
> 
> The sub panel is a 6 slot, 12 circuit job, and feeds 3 dedicated 110V circuits in the shop. One for Compressor / Dust collector, another for HVAC, and the last, for power tools. I also have a 20, and a 30 amp 220V circuit in there…
> 
> It's great not having to run a long power cable to the laundry room to get power to my table saw, and my dust collector just so I could get my A/C working, and even then hope the breaker wouldn't flip…
> 
> Another thing I noticed, on its own, fully dedicated 20 amp 110V circuit, the 13.5K BTU portable unit AC works a LOT better


Never knew you didn't have 110v on the other side of the pond….

Here in the U.S. (Canada and Mexico as well, been there, seen it first hand), we have friends and family all accross North America, anyway here we have nominal 115v (frequently called anywhere from 110 to 120v) and the 230v (frequently called 220, and 240v). The 115 is used for lower power applications, such as, well everything in my shop now. All 2 HP and under. (I think that is 1.5kw or something like that).

It would be nice to not have to think about which socket I need to plug what into… Then again, the concept of plugging say a charger for my cell phone into a 240v circuit seems rather odd to me…


----------



## dbhost

*Installing the insulation. *

I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…

The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…

Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


----------



## whitebeast88

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


i'm jealous.wish when i bought my house i'd pulled the walls board down and insulated it.hope you enjoy.


----------



## patron

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


just in time too

i always mark the floor at the studs too
with a magic marker
for later when you go to hang cabs and things


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


Hadn't thought of that… Good idea.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


Whitebeast,

The wiring / insulation / rerock of my garage workshop is all part of a much larger whole house remodel we are working on a piece at a time. I made a deal with my wife that if she let me get the wiring I wanted and redo the insulation in the shop, which to do right requires yanking the years of water damaged sheetrock (the original roof leaked), in turn once I get the walls done, the Freezer goes out there. It's a small price to pay, and I get the bonus of keeping my Fudgecicles out by me (my wife hates them…) Longer term, we are going to build a shed in the back yard to move the rest of the non shop stuff, and even flamable shop stuff like finishes, out to.

This might not be a big deal to most of y'all, but something odd happened after I did the insulation install. Fellow Texans, actually anyone in the Gulf Coast area can symptathize. Yesterday it was 80 degrees, and the AC was running in the shop while I was working. I was keeping a nice steady 73 deg in there for comfort sake. I finished with my work, shut down the AC, and shut down the shop for the night….

Yesterday evening, a cold front came through here, so far today we haven't gone over 50 degrees. I know you folks up north are laughing, but for us this is certainly cold… The center post between the doors is still uninsulated, and the opposing wall is still undone. But for now, I have the common wall, the doors, and the longest wall in the shop insulated, as well as the ceiling. gaps were filled with spray foam before insulating so air leakage is at a minimum where the task is done. And so far so good.

This morning, I checked in the shop while my outside air was 46 deg F, and the thermometer in the shop still read 72. The sun has been up and beating on the shop wall, just checked still 72. No heat, no AC, just holding what was there…

If you have to do it, do it right, and do it all the way… I am sure this is gonna be fantastic when I am totally done…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


The fruits of a lotta labor and planning…...you deserve it.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


Thanks. This is also the result of having a great wife…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Installing the insulation. *
> 
> I spent the better part of the afternoon trimming up insulation, and installing it in some odd wall cavities… To say the least, my wall studs aren't right. I am marking the ceiling where the studs are as well…
> 
> The good part is it's getting cold here so I won't be sweating through the install… The better thing, with the power in, and the insulation going in, I won't be sweating out there next summer…
> 
> Yeah this is a bit of a gloat…


Sorry about my last short reply, I was on my phone…

You are right this is the result of literally years of effort and planning. I am getting so much closer to complete or as complete as any workshop ever is…

Mind you, the shop is a complete and utter mess right now, but that is to be expected…

My next couple of steps include sheet rock, drywall mud and tape, and then the drill / driver to re-mount the cabinets custom mount / side flip the HF DC (I am doing away with the stand, mostly because due to the location we put the dust collector / air compressor circuit, everything had to move a little bit, and the gaps were anything but generous previously…

This is honestly an excuse to pretty much permanently build in the area for a cyclone…


----------



## dbhost

*Need to work on the lumber wagon... And planned upgrades to both the shop, and wagon.*

I need to get sheet rock to finish my current shop disaster project. One very, very big problem…

The lumber wagon is busted.

I was working on mounting up a hidden winch, and trying to adjust the factory transmission cooler lines just a smidgeon to the side when something went POP!

Sure enough, I actually cracked the trans cooler itself…

A quick call to Tasca Ford Parts and a new cooler, the upgrade model from the Towing package got sent along…

Now I need to crawl under the beast and swap out the cooler, the refill the tranny to the full mark.

I don't think current Fords take Type F transmission fluid like the old ones did. I need to read my manual before I go dropping the wrong stuff down the tube…

Once the cooler is installed, I go to Home Depot. or Lowes, whoever has the better price on 5/8 fire rated drywall (yeah, like the electrical boxes are fire stops, but whatever, the code guy says okay…) and then I get to rocking the walls that are done. Then I rehang the goodies that have been living on the floor, cut up a mount board, and of course mount the scroll saw so I can relocate the tool stacker, and include the scroll saw in that whole deal…

I have a few other upgrades coming in short order.

For the lumber wagon.

#1. Fresh set of shocks. At 95K miles, the oversize tires I run have flogged the snot out of my shocks. I am upgrading to Rancho RS5000s. Too bad Rancho doesn't make an RS9000 for the front end of my truck, but oh well… The RS5000 is what they reccommend for the heavier wheel / tire combo.
#2. Fresh set of tires. The old set after 35K are trashed. Particularly since I have had a bad alignment and bad shocks for most of that time. I am going with a fresh set of Hercules Trail Digger MTs in 35×12.50/17 load range D. They come in E, but this is a half ton truck. I don't want load range E as I like my kidneys… My 2 rear tires are still in okay shape. I will have one mounted to the OEM rim, and will keep the second one. I am going to eventually pick up 2 of the same rims I have for road wheels, so I can toss a second spare in the bed for more serious off road excursions, like driving in Louisiana…
#3. Full out 4 wheel alignment. Yeah I know the rear can only do thrust, but you get the idea. Line the fronts up to the rear so everything is going the same way…

For the shop.

To complete the project I started already.
#1. Finish marking along the floor where the studs / stud centers on the unrocked walls are.
#2. Rock, tape, and mud the open walls. This WILL require assistance. I may hire the job out.
#3. Sand the mud reasonably flat, this is a shop after all and not a living room. Prime the wall and paint it bright white.
#4. Using a pencil and drywall square, mark center locations for each, and every single stud along the wall. 
#5. Mark off wiring locations (screws and nails verboten in this area!)
#6. Move tool stacker to newly rocked wall next to water softener
#7. Build and install mount boards and brackets for doing a side flip / wall mount thing with my HF DC, putting the impeller up over the 55 gallon Thien, and the whole impeller / inlet ring level to each other. This is as close to a cyclone as I am going to get for at least another $1,200.00 that needs to go elsewhere…
#8. Reinstall dust collection ductwork, reworking it to cover the SCMS bench and mortiser.
#9. Re-hang the clamshell tool cabinets a total of 8' apart outer end to outer end, mount up "Bridge shelf" to the top of the cabs.
#10. Move band saw, lathe, table saw, workbench, and drill press back to their proper locations. 
#11. Drink a few beers.

To move on to the next phase on the project not yet started.
#1. Build an at least temporary clamp / safety gear rack such that I can move clamps, safety glasses etc… off of the far wall.
#2. Move drill press over to whatever open floor space I have on the east side of the shop. Move lawn and garden stuff into the space the drill press lives in. Leaving at LEAST a 10' long x 3' wide space for…
#3. Empty lumber racks onto the floor. Using a moisture barrier sheet underneath, stack and sticker the stock using 3/4 ply stickers (I have LOTS of that).
#4. Remove lumber rack from west wall.
#5. Remove any other forgotten mounted items from the west wall.
#6. Cover anything in the shop I don't want drywall dust on and carefully remove sheetrock from ONLY the west wall. 
#7. Take lumber wagon back to Home Depot to grab 5 more R13 Kraft faced rolls (what the inspector said I needed to pass). (This will leave me with a little bit of extra). 6 sheets of 5×8 fire rated sheet rock, and 2 -3 cans expanding foam for any open holes / gaps etc…
#8. Insulate and seal the open wall.
#9. Mark locations of studs, and stud centers along ceiling and floor.
#10. Rock, tape, mud, and sand the open wall. 
#11. Prime and paint the wall.
#12. Mark stud centers.
#13. Disassemble temporary clamp rack / cart.
#14. Build and install swing out sheet goods rack.
#15. Reinstall clamp rack, protective equipment shelf, and lumber rack. Repopulate those items with their respective storage items. 
#16. Size and mount plywood mounting board for lawn and garden items. This will be removed when L&G is moved to a shed. 
#17. Move lawn and garden items back to the corner where they belong. 
#18. Move all tools and fixtures back where they belong.
#19. Remove anything that is presently in the cubby that is reserved for the upright freezer, move said freezer into shop.
#20. Drink a few beers.

Now that we have the BIG part of the work done we move on to the storage projects.
#1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw workstation. Populate them with the "stuff" in the totes. Table saw and router accessories mostly.
#2. Finish building and plumbing the miter saw dust hood.
#3. Build, install, and populate Drill Press Mobile Base cabinet.
#4. Build new workbench. Keeping similar dimensions, but making the top from a SYP 2x gluelam so that each segment is after final milling / dimensioning 1.25" side x side and 3" tall. Total gluelam to be 24" deep x 72" long x 3" thick. I MAY breadboard the ends. I MAY not. Haven't decided yet. Most likely not… 
#5. Build and install simple bridge shelves, and plywood doors to span the space between the clamshell cabinets. The doors are to have turning tool holders attached and the whole thing is to hold turning tools and supplies at an easy to get to position.
#6. Build and install a ballast box for lathe stand. Simple box to hold bags of play sand.
#7. Build and install full on table saw / router table workstation for my BT3100. This would in theory free up space in the miter saw bench for various other parts, small jigs, and supplies.
#8. Drink some more beers…

I am getting there. It's going slow, but it IS going… And I am grateful.

If I haven't mentioned it yet. NO MORE DRAGGING EXTENSION CORDS! Woo Hoo!


----------



## bluekingfisher

dbhost said:


> *Need to work on the lumber wagon... And planned upgrades to both the shop, and wagon.*
> 
> I need to get sheet rock to finish my current shop disaster project. One very, very big problem…
> 
> The lumber wagon is busted.
> 
> I was working on mounting up a hidden winch, and trying to adjust the factory transmission cooler lines just a smidgeon to the side when something went POP!
> 
> Sure enough, I actually cracked the trans cooler itself…
> 
> A quick call to Tasca Ford Parts and a new cooler, the upgrade model from the Towing package got sent along…
> 
> Now I need to crawl under the beast and swap out the cooler, the refill the tranny to the full mark.
> 
> I don't think current Fords take Type F transmission fluid like the old ones did. I need to read my manual before I go dropping the wrong stuff down the tube…
> 
> Once the cooler is installed, I go to Home Depot. or Lowes, whoever has the better price on 5/8 fire rated drywall (yeah, like the electrical boxes are fire stops, but whatever, the code guy says okay…) and then I get to rocking the walls that are done. Then I rehang the goodies that have been living on the floor, cut up a mount board, and of course mount the scroll saw so I can relocate the tool stacker, and include the scroll saw in that whole deal…
> 
> I have a few other upgrades coming in short order.
> 
> For the lumber wagon.
> 
> #1. Fresh set of shocks. At 95K miles, the oversize tires I run have flogged the snot out of my shocks. I am upgrading to Rancho RS5000s. Too bad Rancho doesn't make an RS9000 for the front end of my truck, but oh well… The RS5000 is what they reccommend for the heavier wheel / tire combo.
> #2. Fresh set of tires. The old set after 35K are trashed. Particularly since I have had a bad alignment and bad shocks for most of that time. I am going with a fresh set of Hercules Trail Digger MTs in 35×12.50/17 load range D. They come in E, but this is a half ton truck. I don't want load range E as I like my kidneys… My 2 rear tires are still in okay shape. I will have one mounted to the OEM rim, and will keep the second one. I am going to eventually pick up 2 of the same rims I have for road wheels, so I can toss a second spare in the bed for more serious off road excursions, like driving in Louisiana…
> #3. Full out 4 wheel alignment. Yeah I know the rear can only do thrust, but you get the idea. Line the fronts up to the rear so everything is going the same way…
> 
> For the shop.
> 
> To complete the project I started already.
> #1. Finish marking along the floor where the studs / stud centers on the unrocked walls are.
> #2. Rock, tape, and mud the open walls. This WILL require assistance. I may hire the job out.
> #3. Sand the mud reasonably flat, this is a shop after all and not a living room. Prime the wall and paint it bright white.
> #4. Using a pencil and drywall square, mark center locations for each, and every single stud along the wall.
> #5. Mark off wiring locations (screws and nails verboten in this area!)
> #6. Move tool stacker to newly rocked wall next to water softener
> #7. Build and install mount boards and brackets for doing a side flip / wall mount thing with my HF DC, putting the impeller up over the 55 gallon Thien, and the whole impeller / inlet ring level to each other. This is as close to a cyclone as I am going to get for at least another $1,200.00 that needs to go elsewhere…
> #8. Reinstall dust collection ductwork, reworking it to cover the SCMS bench and mortiser.
> #9. Re-hang the clamshell tool cabinets a total of 8' apart outer end to outer end, mount up "Bridge shelf" to the top of the cabs.
> #10. Move band saw, lathe, table saw, workbench, and drill press back to their proper locations.
> #11. Drink a few beers.
> 
> To move on to the next phase on the project not yet started.
> #1. Build an at least temporary clamp / safety gear rack such that I can move clamps, safety glasses etc… off of the far wall.
> #2. Move drill press over to whatever open floor space I have on the east side of the shop. Move lawn and garden stuff into the space the drill press lives in. Leaving at LEAST a 10' long x 3' wide space for…
> #3. Empty lumber racks onto the floor. Using a moisture barrier sheet underneath, stack and sticker the stock using 3/4 ply stickers (I have LOTS of that).
> #4. Remove lumber rack from west wall.
> #5. Remove any other forgotten mounted items from the west wall.
> #6. Cover anything in the shop I don't want drywall dust on and carefully remove sheetrock from ONLY the west wall.
> #7. Take lumber wagon back to Home Depot to grab 5 more R13 Kraft faced rolls (what the inspector said I needed to pass). (This will leave me with a little bit of extra). 6 sheets of 5×8 fire rated sheet rock, and 2 -3 cans expanding foam for any open holes / gaps etc…
> #8. Insulate and seal the open wall.
> #9. Mark locations of studs, and stud centers along ceiling and floor.
> #10. Rock, tape, mud, and sand the open wall.
> #11. Prime and paint the wall.
> #12. Mark stud centers.
> #13. Disassemble temporary clamp rack / cart.
> #14. Build and install swing out sheet goods rack.
> #15. Reinstall clamp rack, protective equipment shelf, and lumber rack. Repopulate those items with their respective storage items.
> #16. Size and mount plywood mounting board for lawn and garden items. This will be removed when L&G is moved to a shed.
> #17. Move lawn and garden items back to the corner where they belong.
> #18. Move all tools and fixtures back where they belong.
> #19. Remove anything that is presently in the cubby that is reserved for the upright freezer, move said freezer into shop.
> #20. Drink a few beers.
> 
> Now that we have the BIG part of the work done we move on to the storage projects.
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw workstation. Populate them with the "stuff" in the totes. Table saw and router accessories mostly.
> #2. Finish building and plumbing the miter saw dust hood.
> #3. Build, install, and populate Drill Press Mobile Base cabinet.
> #4. Build new workbench. Keeping similar dimensions, but making the top from a SYP 2x gluelam so that each segment is after final milling / dimensioning 1.25" side x side and 3" tall. Total gluelam to be 24" deep x 72" long x 3" thick. I MAY breadboard the ends. I MAY not. Haven't decided yet. Most likely not…
> #5. Build and install simple bridge shelves, and plywood doors to span the space between the clamshell cabinets. The doors are to have turning tool holders attached and the whole thing is to hold turning tools and supplies at an easy to get to position.
> #6. Build and install a ballast box for lathe stand. Simple box to hold bags of play sand.
> #7. Build and install full on table saw / router table workstation for my BT3100. This would in theory free up space in the miter saw bench for various other parts, small jigs, and supplies.
> #8. Drink some more beers…
> 
> I am getting there. It's going slow, but it IS going… And I am grateful.
> 
> If I haven't mentioned it yet. NO MORE DRAGGING EXTENSION CORDS! Woo Hoo!


Sure seems like you are keeping yourself busy there buddy - onwards and upwards. Good luck with it all.

David


----------



## dbhost

*Been a while. Starting to get the sheet rock on the walls. Planning the next stages. *

I've been busy, so I haven't been in my shop much lately, well that's not exactly true, but it IS true that I haven't gotten done what I want to yet.

After scheduling the time to get a rented hoist, then discovering the hoist won't work for holding drywall up against the studs while I start the screws, I got a helping hand from my lovely bride, who could only go so far with it. I need to get some volunteers to help me out here!

Long story short, we wrestled a quite heavy hunk o sheet rock into place, and then ran the screws in. At this point, I couldn't care less if the screw heads leave bumps or not. I used the drywall dimpler, but some screw heads are just a shave proud of the sheet rock.

I have been spending some real long overdue quality time though in cleaning up my shop. I have so much more to do, and so little time to work though.

Tonight, assuming LOML doesn't have other tasks in mind for me, I am planning on spending at least another hour out there just cleaning, straightening, and stashing upstairs the stuff that is out of production and won't be coming back frequently….

I have one more uninterrupted drywall panel to install, then comes the fun part. I have to cut in around the existing electrical and plumbing. This is going to end up a wall board sawn mess I am sure. But once it is all installed, taped, mudded, and painted, I should be silly happy with the next steps…

Once I am ready to get it back in place, I am planning on mounting up my HF DC side flip style to a plywood mount board, and get the drum directly under the impeller… Then back to mounting things up where I want them, finally!

I am at the stage where I really want to be making progress, but REALLY need help getting there… Good thing the neighbor across the way owes me a few favors…


----------



## nailbanger2

dbhost said:


> *Been a while. Starting to get the sheet rock on the walls. Planning the next stages. *
> 
> I've been busy, so I haven't been in my shop much lately, well that's not exactly true, but it IS true that I haven't gotten done what I want to yet.
> 
> After scheduling the time to get a rented hoist, then discovering the hoist won't work for holding drywall up against the studs while I start the screws, I got a helping hand from my lovely bride, who could only go so far with it. I need to get some volunteers to help me out here!
> 
> Long story short, we wrestled a quite heavy hunk o sheet rock into place, and then ran the screws in. At this point, I couldn't care less if the screw heads leave bumps or not. I used the drywall dimpler, but some screw heads are just a shave proud of the sheet rock.
> 
> I have been spending some real long overdue quality time though in cleaning up my shop. I have so much more to do, and so little time to work though.
> 
> Tonight, assuming LOML doesn't have other tasks in mind for me, I am planning on spending at least another hour out there just cleaning, straightening, and stashing upstairs the stuff that is out of production and won't be coming back frequently….
> 
> I have one more uninterrupted drywall panel to install, then comes the fun part. I have to cut in around the existing electrical and plumbing. This is going to end up a wall board sawn mess I am sure. But once it is all installed, taped, mudded, and painted, I should be silly happy with the next steps…
> 
> Once I am ready to get it back in place, I am planning on mounting up my HF DC side flip style to a plywood mount board, and get the drum directly under the impeller… Then back to mounting things up where I want them, finally!
> 
> I am at the stage where I really want to be making progress, but REALLY need help getting there… Good thing the neighbor across the way owes me a few favors…


DB, sheetrock can be a pain, I know from doing it daily. Since you say your wife can be there to help, make yourself a couple deadmen for the ceiling. Basically a T out of 2×4 that is 1/4" longer than the distance from floor to finished ceiling. Once the board is in place, she pushes the deadman as far as she can and wedges the board tight. Only try with 4×8 sheets. You won't save that many joints with 12' sheets, and they greatly increase your stress factor. Of course, start with the ceiling, then the top part of the walls. Measure 48 1/16 down from the ceiling and install a horizontal helper board out of 1×4, plywood, or whatever you have. For the bottom sheets, a toe kicker sheet lifter is a great time saver, but a flat pry bar with some kind of fulcrum can be substituted in a pinch. I hope this helps, I'll put this on my watch list for any questions you may have.

Oh, throw the dimpler tip away, install the screws with #2 phillips on your battery power driver. You'll get the hang of driving them the right depth very quickly. The batt. driver on high speed slows down as you near the depth on 1 1/4" screws. This info does not help if you're using 1 5/8" screws. If you are, you need power, in which case I pity you!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Been a while. Starting to get the sheet rock on the walls. Planning the next stages. *
> 
> I've been busy, so I haven't been in my shop much lately, well that's not exactly true, but it IS true that I haven't gotten done what I want to yet.
> 
> After scheduling the time to get a rented hoist, then discovering the hoist won't work for holding drywall up against the studs while I start the screws, I got a helping hand from my lovely bride, who could only go so far with it. I need to get some volunteers to help me out here!
> 
> Long story short, we wrestled a quite heavy hunk o sheet rock into place, and then ran the screws in. At this point, I couldn't care less if the screw heads leave bumps or not. I used the drywall dimpler, but some screw heads are just a shave proud of the sheet rock.
> 
> I have been spending some real long overdue quality time though in cleaning up my shop. I have so much more to do, and so little time to work though.
> 
> Tonight, assuming LOML doesn't have other tasks in mind for me, I am planning on spending at least another hour out there just cleaning, straightening, and stashing upstairs the stuff that is out of production and won't be coming back frequently….
> 
> I have one more uninterrupted drywall panel to install, then comes the fun part. I have to cut in around the existing electrical and plumbing. This is going to end up a wall board sawn mess I am sure. But once it is all installed, taped, mudded, and painted, I should be silly happy with the next steps…
> 
> Once I am ready to get it back in place, I am planning on mounting up my HF DC side flip style to a plywood mount board, and get the drum directly under the impeller… Then back to mounting things up where I want them, finally!
> 
> I am at the stage where I really want to be making progress, but REALLY need help getting there… Good thing the neighbor across the way owes me a few favors…


Not sure how we could use a deadman on the wall itself. The ceiling is already sheet rocked…

"Measure 48 1/16 down from the ceiling and install a horizontal helper board out of 1×4, plywood"

Oh you just gave me a fan-stinking tastic idea, I think…

So install the helper board, shimmy the sheet into place, and use it to hold the sheet up while I dirve the screws? Sound about right?


----------



## nailbanger2

dbhost said:


> *Been a while. Starting to get the sheet rock on the walls. Planning the next stages. *
> 
> I've been busy, so I haven't been in my shop much lately, well that's not exactly true, but it IS true that I haven't gotten done what I want to yet.
> 
> After scheduling the time to get a rented hoist, then discovering the hoist won't work for holding drywall up against the studs while I start the screws, I got a helping hand from my lovely bride, who could only go so far with it. I need to get some volunteers to help me out here!
> 
> Long story short, we wrestled a quite heavy hunk o sheet rock into place, and then ran the screws in. At this point, I couldn't care less if the screw heads leave bumps or not. I used the drywall dimpler, but some screw heads are just a shave proud of the sheet rock.
> 
> I have been spending some real long overdue quality time though in cleaning up my shop. I have so much more to do, and so little time to work though.
> 
> Tonight, assuming LOML doesn't have other tasks in mind for me, I am planning on spending at least another hour out there just cleaning, straightening, and stashing upstairs the stuff that is out of production and won't be coming back frequently….
> 
> I have one more uninterrupted drywall panel to install, then comes the fun part. I have to cut in around the existing electrical and plumbing. This is going to end up a wall board sawn mess I am sure. But once it is all installed, taped, mudded, and painted, I should be silly happy with the next steps…
> 
> Once I am ready to get it back in place, I am planning on mounting up my HF DC side flip style to a plywood mount board, and get the drum directly under the impeller… Then back to mounting things up where I want them, finally!
> 
> I am at the stage where I really want to be making progress, but REALLY need help getting there… Good thing the neighbor across the way owes me a few favors…


Sorry for the delay, it's been crazy down here. You do have the right idea, though. If you have too much gap at the joint between wall and ceiling, a wedge or flat bar will bring it tight. I generally leave the gaps, however, and fill them with fiberglass mesh and 5 minute mud. I feel that the horizontal line is more important to maintain than a tight joint at the ceiling.


----------



## dbhost

*All is well, but keeping very busy...*

I have had very little shop time since October, when I had my electrical run. In the time in between I have…

#1. Finished up the remodel of my laundry room. 
#2. Finished with the paint and electrical upgrades in the living room.
#3. Assembled a cheapo computer armoire for the master bedroom. This is a temporary thing as I am presently working on …

#1. Purging the YEARS of junk accumulated in my home office. I literally had stacks of boxes filled with various documentation, taxes and finances going back to 1986. I spent lots of quality time with my scanner, and paper shreadder getting rid of most of the stuff older than 8 years old. (some stuff like mortgage of course i kept…).
#2. Rebuilding my home computer network. I am building a private cloud infrastructure at home. I have just last night finished up building the SAN (Storage Area Network). I need to set up mount boards for patch panels and switches as I am not at a point where I can do a structured wiring project complete with enclosure at this point. 
#3. Haven't begun putting it together, but I have the hardware to start assembling a 4 node HPC cluster for virtualization.

Back in the shop I have been…

#1. Cleaning out the old toolboxes of years of accumulated junk. Finding proper spaces for everything that can have a proper space, if it doesn't belong, it goes either to be recycled, donated, or to the dumpster… My mechanics toolbox hasn't been this organized since I actually WAS a professional mechanic.
#3. Building, and having an utter measurement failure on a custom fit behind the front bumper winch mount for my truck.
#4. Replacing the alternator in my Saturn.
#5. attempting to put up full sheets of fire rated sheetrock, solo… Not happening. I need HELP!

So you see it hasn't been that I haven't been busy, I have been too busy is the problem…

Good Lord willing, and some helpful volunteers able, I will have my truck back road worthy in January (I need to replace ball joints, and coilovers in the front end, going with a Rancho 2.5" lift at the same time. The 6" is WAY too expensive, and more than I need.

My biggest concern really is the sheet rock. Once that gets put up, I start putting my shop back together, starting with the clamshell cabinets. I will be spacing them so that the ends are exactly 8' apart, and will then put the cabs such that there is an 8' x 18" deep shelf on top of them.

Like I mentioned, I need help. Anyone in the Houston metro area willing to give me a hand?


----------



## DanLyke

dbhost said:


> *All is well, but keeping very busy...*
> 
> I have had very little shop time since October, when I had my electrical run. In the time in between I have…
> 
> #1. Finished up the remodel of my laundry room.
> #2. Finished with the paint and electrical upgrades in the living room.
> #3. Assembled a cheapo computer armoire for the master bedroom. This is a temporary thing as I am presently working on …
> 
> #1. Purging the YEARS of junk accumulated in my home office. I literally had stacks of boxes filled with various documentation, taxes and finances going back to 1986. I spent lots of quality time with my scanner, and paper shreadder getting rid of most of the stuff older than 8 years old. (some stuff like mortgage of course i kept…).
> #2. Rebuilding my home computer network. I am building a private cloud infrastructure at home. I have just last night finished up building the SAN (Storage Area Network). I need to set up mount boards for patch panels and switches as I am not at a point where I can do a structured wiring project complete with enclosure at this point.
> #3. Haven't begun putting it together, but I have the hardware to start assembling a 4 node HPC cluster for virtualization.
> 
> Back in the shop I have been…
> 
> #1. Cleaning out the old toolboxes of years of accumulated junk. Finding proper spaces for everything that can have a proper space, if it doesn't belong, it goes either to be recycled, donated, or to the dumpster… My mechanics toolbox hasn't been this organized since I actually WAS a professional mechanic.
> #3. Building, and having an utter measurement failure on a custom fit behind the front bumper winch mount for my truck.
> #4. Replacing the alternator in my Saturn.
> #5. attempting to put up full sheets of fire rated sheetrock, solo… Not happening. I need HELP!
> 
> So you see it hasn't been that I haven't been busy, I have been too busy is the problem…
> 
> Good Lord willing, and some helpful volunteers able, I will have my truck back road worthy in January (I need to replace ball joints, and coilovers in the front end, going with a Rancho 2.5" lift at the same time. The 6" is WAY too expensive, and more than I need.
> 
> My biggest concern really is the sheet rock. Once that gets put up, I start putting my shop back together, starting with the clamshell cabinets. I will be spacing them so that the ends are exactly 8' apart, and will then put the cabs such that there is an 8' x 18" deep shelf on top of them.
> 
> Like I mentioned, I need help. Anyone in the Houston metro area willing to give me a hand?


Wish I were closer, 'cause it sounds like you need a hand, but I'll be watching from afar!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *All is well, but keeping very busy...*
> 
> I have had very little shop time since October, when I had my electrical run. In the time in between I have…
> 
> #1. Finished up the remodel of my laundry room.
> #2. Finished with the paint and electrical upgrades in the living room.
> #3. Assembled a cheapo computer armoire for the master bedroom. This is a temporary thing as I am presently working on …
> 
> #1. Purging the YEARS of junk accumulated in my home office. I literally had stacks of boxes filled with various documentation, taxes and finances going back to 1986. I spent lots of quality time with my scanner, and paper shreadder getting rid of most of the stuff older than 8 years old. (some stuff like mortgage of course i kept…).
> #2. Rebuilding my home computer network. I am building a private cloud infrastructure at home. I have just last night finished up building the SAN (Storage Area Network). I need to set up mount boards for patch panels and switches as I am not at a point where I can do a structured wiring project complete with enclosure at this point.
> #3. Haven't begun putting it together, but I have the hardware to start assembling a 4 node HPC cluster for virtualization.
> 
> Back in the shop I have been…
> 
> #1. Cleaning out the old toolboxes of years of accumulated junk. Finding proper spaces for everything that can have a proper space, if it doesn't belong, it goes either to be recycled, donated, or to the dumpster… My mechanics toolbox hasn't been this organized since I actually WAS a professional mechanic.
> #3. Building, and having an utter measurement failure on a custom fit behind the front bumper winch mount for my truck.
> #4. Replacing the alternator in my Saturn.
> #5. attempting to put up full sheets of fire rated sheetrock, solo… Not happening. I need HELP!
> 
> So you see it hasn't been that I haven't been busy, I have been too busy is the problem…
> 
> Good Lord willing, and some helpful volunteers able, I will have my truck back road worthy in January (I need to replace ball joints, and coilovers in the front end, going with a Rancho 2.5" lift at the same time. The 6" is WAY too expensive, and more than I need.
> 
> My biggest concern really is the sheet rock. Once that gets put up, I start putting my shop back together, starting with the clamshell cabinets. I will be spacing them so that the ends are exactly 8' apart, and will then put the cabs such that there is an 8' x 18" deep shelf on top of them.
> 
> Like I mentioned, I need help. Anyone in the Houston metro area willing to give me a hand?


I have some friends @ my church that I can typically call on, but one of them is dealing with some family issues (pregnant wife / high risk pregnancy, so he is pretty much doing EVERYTHING around the house…), and the other one is working more hours than I am…

The neighbor across the street offered to help. I have helped him hang rock, and rebuild his deck, but he's a younger single guy, and he has a new girlfriend, so that option is closed. Might try to offer his roomate a few bucks to just help me get this stuff UP…


----------



## nailbanger2

dbhost said:


> *All is well, but keeping very busy...*
> 
> I have had very little shop time since October, when I had my electrical run. In the time in between I have…
> 
> #1. Finished up the remodel of my laundry room.
> #2. Finished with the paint and electrical upgrades in the living room.
> #3. Assembled a cheapo computer armoire for the master bedroom. This is a temporary thing as I am presently working on …
> 
> #1. Purging the YEARS of junk accumulated in my home office. I literally had stacks of boxes filled with various documentation, taxes and finances going back to 1986. I spent lots of quality time with my scanner, and paper shreadder getting rid of most of the stuff older than 8 years old. (some stuff like mortgage of course i kept…).
> #2. Rebuilding my home computer network. I am building a private cloud infrastructure at home. I have just last night finished up building the SAN (Storage Area Network). I need to set up mount boards for patch panels and switches as I am not at a point where I can do a structured wiring project complete with enclosure at this point.
> #3. Haven't begun putting it together, but I have the hardware to start assembling a 4 node HPC cluster for virtualization.
> 
> Back in the shop I have been…
> 
> #1. Cleaning out the old toolboxes of years of accumulated junk. Finding proper spaces for everything that can have a proper space, if it doesn't belong, it goes either to be recycled, donated, or to the dumpster… My mechanics toolbox hasn't been this organized since I actually WAS a professional mechanic.
> #3. Building, and having an utter measurement failure on a custom fit behind the front bumper winch mount for my truck.
> #4. Replacing the alternator in my Saturn.
> #5. attempting to put up full sheets of fire rated sheetrock, solo… Not happening. I need HELP!
> 
> So you see it hasn't been that I haven't been busy, I have been too busy is the problem…
> 
> Good Lord willing, and some helpful volunteers able, I will have my truck back road worthy in January (I need to replace ball joints, and coilovers in the front end, going with a Rancho 2.5" lift at the same time. The 6" is WAY too expensive, and more than I need.
> 
> My biggest concern really is the sheet rock. Once that gets put up, I start putting my shop back together, starting with the clamshell cabinets. I will be spacing them so that the ends are exactly 8' apart, and will then put the cabs such that there is an 8' x 18" deep shelf on top of them.
> 
> Like I mentioned, I need help. Anyone in the Houston metro area willing to give me a hand?


Hang in there, db, maybe call David Blaine to see if he can levitate over long distance. It doesn't sound like any of my advice helped, so I'll just wish you luck.


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *All is well, but keeping very busy...*
> 
> I have had very little shop time since October, when I had my electrical run. In the time in between I have…
> 
> #1. Finished up the remodel of my laundry room.
> #2. Finished with the paint and electrical upgrades in the living room.
> #3. Assembled a cheapo computer armoire for the master bedroom. This is a temporary thing as I am presently working on …
> 
> #1. Purging the YEARS of junk accumulated in my home office. I literally had stacks of boxes filled with various documentation, taxes and finances going back to 1986. I spent lots of quality time with my scanner, and paper shreadder getting rid of most of the stuff older than 8 years old. (some stuff like mortgage of course i kept…).
> #2. Rebuilding my home computer network. I am building a private cloud infrastructure at home. I have just last night finished up building the SAN (Storage Area Network). I need to set up mount boards for patch panels and switches as I am not at a point where I can do a structured wiring project complete with enclosure at this point.
> #3. Haven't begun putting it together, but I have the hardware to start assembling a 4 node HPC cluster for virtualization.
> 
> Back in the shop I have been…
> 
> #1. Cleaning out the old toolboxes of years of accumulated junk. Finding proper spaces for everything that can have a proper space, if it doesn't belong, it goes either to be recycled, donated, or to the dumpster… My mechanics toolbox hasn't been this organized since I actually WAS a professional mechanic.
> #3. Building, and having an utter measurement failure on a custom fit behind the front bumper winch mount for my truck.
> #4. Replacing the alternator in my Saturn.
> #5. attempting to put up full sheets of fire rated sheetrock, solo… Not happening. I need HELP!
> 
> So you see it hasn't been that I haven't been busy, I have been too busy is the problem…
> 
> Good Lord willing, and some helpful volunteers able, I will have my truck back road worthy in January (I need to replace ball joints, and coilovers in the front end, going with a Rancho 2.5" lift at the same time. The 6" is WAY too expensive, and more than I need.
> 
> My biggest concern really is the sheet rock. Once that gets put up, I start putting my shop back together, starting with the clamshell cabinets. I will be spacing them so that the ends are exactly 8' apart, and will then put the cabs such that there is an 8' x 18" deep shelf on top of them.
> 
> Like I mentioned, I need help. Anyone in the Houston metro area willing to give me a hand?


The BEST help I can offer is…...
To stay out of the way and supervise!!! IF that is not enough, there is just a matter of round trip airfare, from Vermont. That and convincing my boos, that I need the time off!!!

Good luck with everything!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *All is well, but keeping very busy...*
> 
> I have had very little shop time since October, when I had my electrical run. In the time in between I have…
> 
> #1. Finished up the remodel of my laundry room.
> #2. Finished with the paint and electrical upgrades in the living room.
> #3. Assembled a cheapo computer armoire for the master bedroom. This is a temporary thing as I am presently working on …
> 
> #1. Purging the YEARS of junk accumulated in my home office. I literally had stacks of boxes filled with various documentation, taxes and finances going back to 1986. I spent lots of quality time with my scanner, and paper shreadder getting rid of most of the stuff older than 8 years old. (some stuff like mortgage of course i kept…).
> #2. Rebuilding my home computer network. I am building a private cloud infrastructure at home. I have just last night finished up building the SAN (Storage Area Network). I need to set up mount boards for patch panels and switches as I am not at a point where I can do a structured wiring project complete with enclosure at this point.
> #3. Haven't begun putting it together, but I have the hardware to start assembling a 4 node HPC cluster for virtualization.
> 
> Back in the shop I have been…
> 
> #1. Cleaning out the old toolboxes of years of accumulated junk. Finding proper spaces for everything that can have a proper space, if it doesn't belong, it goes either to be recycled, donated, or to the dumpster… My mechanics toolbox hasn't been this organized since I actually WAS a professional mechanic.
> #3. Building, and having an utter measurement failure on a custom fit behind the front bumper winch mount for my truck.
> #4. Replacing the alternator in my Saturn.
> #5. attempting to put up full sheets of fire rated sheetrock, solo… Not happening. I need HELP!
> 
> So you see it hasn't been that I haven't been busy, I have been too busy is the problem…
> 
> Good Lord willing, and some helpful volunteers able, I will have my truck back road worthy in January (I need to replace ball joints, and coilovers in the front end, going with a Rancho 2.5" lift at the same time. The 6" is WAY too expensive, and more than I need.
> 
> My biggest concern really is the sheet rock. Once that gets put up, I start putting my shop back together, starting with the clamshell cabinets. I will be spacing them so that the ends are exactly 8' apart, and will then put the cabs such that there is an 8' x 18" deep shelf on top of them.
> 
> Like I mentioned, I need help. Anyone in the Houston metro area willing to give me a hand?


The private cloud sounds like an interesting deal, will have to pick your brains on that.

Currently in Dallas with my wife, as she recovers from mega jaw surgery. Hopefully will be flying home on December 23. Having trouble with email here, and when I do get it, the wireless is quite slow. So, will get caught up on everything after I get back to Anchorage. I just finally got this posting today.


----------



## dbhost

*Workshop status, and what has been keeping me away...*

As regular readers know, and I am about to tell the non regulars, I added power to my shop back in October, which required ripping down the sheet rock from the "powered walls". And I work full time in what can best be described as large enterprise information technology. Well careers and tech being what they are, I need to stay on top of hardware and software trends as best I can, and in this era of trimmed (management speak for non existent) training budgets, I had to take matters into my own hands.

The current buzzword for the data center is "Cloud Computing". And since I work in a mixed environment shop, that means both Open Source, and closed source types of clouds. Now the closed source stuff I crash coursed myself on at work, but the Open Source stuff, well there just wasn't the spare hardware in the dev / testing area that wasn't booked up for me to build it.. so I did what any good LUmberjock would do…

I scrapped together the bucks to get the materials and built it at home…

Now I am not done yet, but the basics are there, and I am using this as an opportunity to remodel the middle / unused / smallest bedroom as a proper home office and music studio, LOML and I are wanting the larger bedroom the office is currently in for, well family growth…

So to avoid the not wood related stuff in too much detail, I have ended up building 2 fairly potent 8 core PCs, repurposing an older single core box, building an iSCSI SAN, and upgrading our entire LAN… But this is where the wood stuff comes in…

In the process of this move and remodel that LOML REALLY wants done, I need to either buy, or build a new computer desk. The old U shaped desk is WAY too big for the space we have, and to be blunt, I hate it. I have a pair of pretty nice old wooden 2 drawer filing cabinets that are the perfect size to act as base pedestals for a desk… That got me to cranking away in Sketchup, and I have a design that I believe even my wife will love…

But in order to get there, well I mentioned the sheet rock has been down in my shop since October right? Well it's been that way because, well I discovered lifting, levelling, and screwing fire rated sheet rock onto the wall myself is impossible, and I just can't seem to talk my brother in law into helping. Not complaining, he has some pretty heavy health issues, so we were going to hire the job out.. We actually had a quote done for just the labor of hanging, taping and getting the first coat of mud on… Well over the weekend, LOML decided she didn't like the labor quote, and figured she would try to help me hang sheet rock! Okay we didn't get a LOT done, only 2 sheets, one of which required some careful trimming with a 1.5" chisel. (cheap Chinese tool bin version, don't care if I mess it up). The 3rd and final upper sheet needs to have some measurements done to clear the sub panel, and to trim the end off.

IF she stays motivated, I can honestly see having my shop sheet rock hung by the end of next weekend (she has plans for us this weekend). Once the rock is hung, I can mud / tape and sand in the evenings. Once this is all squared away, and smoothed out, I will toss a drop cloth over anything I don't want primer and paint on, and just get after it with some bright white paint from Home Depot… I need to keep the amount of light in my shop as high as I can manage.

So hopefully the next time you see a workshop development blog entry from me, I will have the wall done, and will be mounting up my clam shell cabinets, dust collection ductwork, and doing the side flip wall mount conversion to my HF dust collector…


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Workshop status, and what has been keeping me away...*
> 
> As regular readers know, and I am about to tell the non regulars, I added power to my shop back in October, which required ripping down the sheet rock from the "powered walls". And I work full time in what can best be described as large enterprise information technology. Well careers and tech being what they are, I need to stay on top of hardware and software trends as best I can, and in this era of trimmed (management speak for non existent) training budgets, I had to take matters into my own hands.
> 
> The current buzzword for the data center is "Cloud Computing". And since I work in a mixed environment shop, that means both Open Source, and closed source types of clouds. Now the closed source stuff I crash coursed myself on at work, but the Open Source stuff, well there just wasn't the spare hardware in the dev / testing area that wasn't booked up for me to build it.. so I did what any good LUmberjock would do…
> 
> I scrapped together the bucks to get the materials and built it at home…
> 
> Now I am not done yet, but the basics are there, and I am using this as an opportunity to remodel the middle / unused / smallest bedroom as a proper home office and music studio, LOML and I are wanting the larger bedroom the office is currently in for, well family growth…
> 
> So to avoid the not wood related stuff in too much detail, I have ended up building 2 fairly potent 8 core PCs, repurposing an older single core box, building an iSCSI SAN, and upgrading our entire LAN… But this is where the wood stuff comes in…
> 
> In the process of this move and remodel that LOML REALLY wants done, I need to either buy, or build a new computer desk. The old U shaped desk is WAY too big for the space we have, and to be blunt, I hate it. I have a pair of pretty nice old wooden 2 drawer filing cabinets that are the perfect size to act as base pedestals for a desk… That got me to cranking away in Sketchup, and I have a design that I believe even my wife will love…
> 
> But in order to get there, well I mentioned the sheet rock has been down in my shop since October right? Well it's been that way because, well I discovered lifting, levelling, and screwing fire rated sheet rock onto the wall myself is impossible, and I just can't seem to talk my brother in law into helping. Not complaining, he has some pretty heavy health issues, so we were going to hire the job out.. We actually had a quote done for just the labor of hanging, taping and getting the first coat of mud on… Well over the weekend, LOML decided she didn't like the labor quote, and figured she would try to help me hang sheet rock! Okay we didn't get a LOT done, only 2 sheets, one of which required some careful trimming with a 1.5" chisel. (cheap Chinese tool bin version, don't care if I mess it up). The 3rd and final upper sheet needs to have some measurements done to clear the sub panel, and to trim the end off.
> 
> IF she stays motivated, I can honestly see having my shop sheet rock hung by the end of next weekend (she has plans for us this weekend). Once the rock is hung, I can mud / tape and sand in the evenings. Once this is all squared away, and smoothed out, I will toss a drop cloth over anything I don't want primer and paint on, and just get after it with some bright white paint from Home Depot… I need to keep the amount of light in my shop as high as I can manage.
> 
> So hopefully the next time you see a workshop development blog entry from me, I will have the wall done, and will be mounting up my clam shell cabinets, dust collection ductwork, and doing the side flip wall mount conversion to my HF dust collector…


Sounds like you've been busy enough for two or three people. Thanks for that, as it takes the load off ME!!!

Good luck with it all!!!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Workshop status, and what has been keeping me away...*
> 
> As regular readers know, and I am about to tell the non regulars, I added power to my shop back in October, which required ripping down the sheet rock from the "powered walls". And I work full time in what can best be described as large enterprise information technology. Well careers and tech being what they are, I need to stay on top of hardware and software trends as best I can, and in this era of trimmed (management speak for non existent) training budgets, I had to take matters into my own hands.
> 
> The current buzzword for the data center is "Cloud Computing". And since I work in a mixed environment shop, that means both Open Source, and closed source types of clouds. Now the closed source stuff I crash coursed myself on at work, but the Open Source stuff, well there just wasn't the spare hardware in the dev / testing area that wasn't booked up for me to build it.. so I did what any good LUmberjock would do…
> 
> I scrapped together the bucks to get the materials and built it at home…
> 
> Now I am not done yet, but the basics are there, and I am using this as an opportunity to remodel the middle / unused / smallest bedroom as a proper home office and music studio, LOML and I are wanting the larger bedroom the office is currently in for, well family growth…
> 
> So to avoid the not wood related stuff in too much detail, I have ended up building 2 fairly potent 8 core PCs, repurposing an older single core box, building an iSCSI SAN, and upgrading our entire LAN… But this is where the wood stuff comes in…
> 
> In the process of this move and remodel that LOML REALLY wants done, I need to either buy, or build a new computer desk. The old U shaped desk is WAY too big for the space we have, and to be blunt, I hate it. I have a pair of pretty nice old wooden 2 drawer filing cabinets that are the perfect size to act as base pedestals for a desk… That got me to cranking away in Sketchup, and I have a design that I believe even my wife will love…
> 
> But in order to get there, well I mentioned the sheet rock has been down in my shop since October right? Well it's been that way because, well I discovered lifting, levelling, and screwing fire rated sheet rock onto the wall myself is impossible, and I just can't seem to talk my brother in law into helping. Not complaining, he has some pretty heavy health issues, so we were going to hire the job out.. We actually had a quote done for just the labor of hanging, taping and getting the first coat of mud on… Well over the weekend, LOML decided she didn't like the labor quote, and figured she would try to help me hang sheet rock! Okay we didn't get a LOT done, only 2 sheets, one of which required some careful trimming with a 1.5" chisel. (cheap Chinese tool bin version, don't care if I mess it up). The 3rd and final upper sheet needs to have some measurements done to clear the sub panel, and to trim the end off.
> 
> IF she stays motivated, I can honestly see having my shop sheet rock hung by the end of next weekend (she has plans for us this weekend). Once the rock is hung, I can mud / tape and sand in the evenings. Once this is all squared away, and smoothed out, I will toss a drop cloth over anything I don't want primer and paint on, and just get after it with some bright white paint from Home Depot… I need to keep the amount of light in my shop as high as I can manage.
> 
> So hopefully the next time you see a workshop development blog entry from me, I will have the wall done, and will be mounting up my clam shell cabinets, dust collection ductwork, and doing the side flip wall mount conversion to my HF dust collector…


I'd be a lot busier if LOML would let me… I have suspension on my truck that needs to be rebuilt. At this point, it is going to the shop in 3 weeks…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Workshop status, and what has been keeping me away...*
> 
> As regular readers know, and I am about to tell the non regulars, I added power to my shop back in October, which required ripping down the sheet rock from the "powered walls". And I work full time in what can best be described as large enterprise information technology. Well careers and tech being what they are, I need to stay on top of hardware and software trends as best I can, and in this era of trimmed (management speak for non existent) training budgets, I had to take matters into my own hands.
> 
> The current buzzword for the data center is "Cloud Computing". And since I work in a mixed environment shop, that means both Open Source, and closed source types of clouds. Now the closed source stuff I crash coursed myself on at work, but the Open Source stuff, well there just wasn't the spare hardware in the dev / testing area that wasn't booked up for me to build it.. so I did what any good LUmberjock would do…
> 
> I scrapped together the bucks to get the materials and built it at home…
> 
> Now I am not done yet, but the basics are there, and I am using this as an opportunity to remodel the middle / unused / smallest bedroom as a proper home office and music studio, LOML and I are wanting the larger bedroom the office is currently in for, well family growth…
> 
> So to avoid the not wood related stuff in too much detail, I have ended up building 2 fairly potent 8 core PCs, repurposing an older single core box, building an iSCSI SAN, and upgrading our entire LAN… But this is where the wood stuff comes in…
> 
> In the process of this move and remodel that LOML REALLY wants done, I need to either buy, or build a new computer desk. The old U shaped desk is WAY too big for the space we have, and to be blunt, I hate it. I have a pair of pretty nice old wooden 2 drawer filing cabinets that are the perfect size to act as base pedestals for a desk… That got me to cranking away in Sketchup, and I have a design that I believe even my wife will love…
> 
> But in order to get there, well I mentioned the sheet rock has been down in my shop since October right? Well it's been that way because, well I discovered lifting, levelling, and screwing fire rated sheet rock onto the wall myself is impossible, and I just can't seem to talk my brother in law into helping. Not complaining, he has some pretty heavy health issues, so we were going to hire the job out.. We actually had a quote done for just the labor of hanging, taping and getting the first coat of mud on… Well over the weekend, LOML decided she didn't like the labor quote, and figured she would try to help me hang sheet rock! Okay we didn't get a LOT done, only 2 sheets, one of which required some careful trimming with a 1.5" chisel. (cheap Chinese tool bin version, don't care if I mess it up). The 3rd and final upper sheet needs to have some measurements done to clear the sub panel, and to trim the end off.
> 
> IF she stays motivated, I can honestly see having my shop sheet rock hung by the end of next weekend (she has plans for us this weekend). Once the rock is hung, I can mud / tape and sand in the evenings. Once this is all squared away, and smoothed out, I will toss a drop cloth over anything I don't want primer and paint on, and just get after it with some bright white paint from Home Depot… I need to keep the amount of light in my shop as high as I can manage.
> 
> So hopefully the next time you see a workshop development blog entry from me, I will have the wall done, and will be mounting up my clam shell cabinets, dust collection ductwork, and doing the side flip wall mount conversion to my HF dust collector…


Well, I am taking a holiday from the programming-tech stuff. But….....then the aquarium sprung a small leak, so had to set up the long envisioned replant of the aquarium into my office. So my cutoffs cart…...ready for glueup is sitting…...but hopefully I will get to it this weekend…...finally.

Sherie helped me with the aquarium stuff…......it still needs a remodel with oak to make it fit in the office, but otherwise doing OK. Next week, down to the vacation home for 11 days…....really need that.

So we are kinda parallel in some respects…....tech stuff taking time from woodworking, and help from the LOML.

Sherie will be recovering for another 7 months from her surgery (major jaw, maxilla, type stuff) and she is losing weight still, but still doing OK. The surgery was done at Baylor, if you recall, I think I may have mentioned it.

So, wanna see you in the new mega powered shop, with the bright walls and ceiling, and the shiny floor. I envy you.

Hopefully I will be more active in the woodworking arena the next year, although there is still some techie stuff to do.

Gotta blog some stuff this weekend…....


----------



## oldnovice

dbhost said:


> *Workshop status, and what has been keeping me away...*
> 
> As regular readers know, and I am about to tell the non regulars, I added power to my shop back in October, which required ripping down the sheet rock from the "powered walls". And I work full time in what can best be described as large enterprise information technology. Well careers and tech being what they are, I need to stay on top of hardware and software trends as best I can, and in this era of trimmed (management speak for non existent) training budgets, I had to take matters into my own hands.
> 
> The current buzzword for the data center is "Cloud Computing". And since I work in a mixed environment shop, that means both Open Source, and closed source types of clouds. Now the closed source stuff I crash coursed myself on at work, but the Open Source stuff, well there just wasn't the spare hardware in the dev / testing area that wasn't booked up for me to build it.. so I did what any good LUmberjock would do…
> 
> I scrapped together the bucks to get the materials and built it at home…
> 
> Now I am not done yet, but the basics are there, and I am using this as an opportunity to remodel the middle / unused / smallest bedroom as a proper home office and music studio, LOML and I are wanting the larger bedroom the office is currently in for, well family growth…
> 
> So to avoid the not wood related stuff in too much detail, I have ended up building 2 fairly potent 8 core PCs, repurposing an older single core box, building an iSCSI SAN, and upgrading our entire LAN… But this is where the wood stuff comes in…
> 
> In the process of this move and remodel that LOML REALLY wants done, I need to either buy, or build a new computer desk. The old U shaped desk is WAY too big for the space we have, and to be blunt, I hate it. I have a pair of pretty nice old wooden 2 drawer filing cabinets that are the perfect size to act as base pedestals for a desk… That got me to cranking away in Sketchup, and I have a design that I believe even my wife will love…
> 
> But in order to get there, well I mentioned the sheet rock has been down in my shop since October right? Well it's been that way because, well I discovered lifting, levelling, and screwing fire rated sheet rock onto the wall myself is impossible, and I just can't seem to talk my brother in law into helping. Not complaining, he has some pretty heavy health issues, so we were going to hire the job out.. We actually had a quote done for just the labor of hanging, taping and getting the first coat of mud on… Well over the weekend, LOML decided she didn't like the labor quote, and figured she would try to help me hang sheet rock! Okay we didn't get a LOT done, only 2 sheets, one of which required some careful trimming with a 1.5" chisel. (cheap Chinese tool bin version, don't care if I mess it up). The 3rd and final upper sheet needs to have some measurements done to clear the sub panel, and to trim the end off.
> 
> IF she stays motivated, I can honestly see having my shop sheet rock hung by the end of next weekend (she has plans for us this weekend). Once the rock is hung, I can mud / tape and sand in the evenings. Once this is all squared away, and smoothed out, I will toss a drop cloth over anything I don't want primer and paint on, and just get after it with some bright white paint from Home Depot… I need to keep the amount of light in my shop as high as I can manage.
> 
> So hopefully the next time you see a workshop development blog entry from me, I will have the wall done, and will be mounting up my clam shell cabinets, dust collection ductwork, and doing the side flip wall mount conversion to my HF dust collector…


You sure have a full slate! You could use some help. Have you thought about just getting a day laborer to help out? A lot of people around here use these for assistance as they are insured by the centers that "loan" them out and the cost is fairly reasonable.

As for myself I am having a serious RA flare up in my left shoulder which doesn't bother me that much during the day but it doesn't let me sleep. Just got over a cold, now my wife has it.

Hopefully in a week everything will be back to normal … whatever that is!


----------



## dbhost

*Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*

After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…

Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


----------



## CMobley

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


We all hit snaggs sometimes! Keep your chin up and keep up the hard work!
Chris Mobley
www.cmobleydesigns.com


----------



## Nighthawk

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


Your studs will most likely be evenly spaced and should line up with you drywall… (I think its called Gibb here in NZ). example here in NZ the Gibb is 2.4 (2400mm) x 1.2 (1200mm) so you make the stud centres 600mm and the dwags if you decide to put them in are at similar spacing.

All dwangs do is sto the twising of te main studs

Sorry don't know the imperial conversions doh.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


What are dwangs?

For what it's worth. yes my studs *should* be evenly spaced with 16" OC spacing. However should be, and reality are two distinctly different things. Hence the need to mark the wall so that I know EXACTLY where the middle of the studs is once I get tape, mud, and paint up… I have a couple of studs that are off by as much as 2", so that if I try to just measure from where I know one is, to 16" over, I may or may not hit a stud… It's infuriating…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


Nighthawk. Never mind, just found out. Dwangs = Blocking. The horizontal member of a wall.. These particular walls do not utilize such members. Simply footers, upright studs, and headers to cap it off. Lousy 1980s building codes…


----------



## DIYaholic

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


If you want some practice…..
You can come to Vermont and work on my shop!!!
Just trying to do my part to further your skill set!!! Lol.

If you start hanging out at the bars….
You may meet some people with time on their hands that can help!!!

Good luck with the shop upgrades & remember to post pictuers because….
No pictures…...


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


If I start hanging out at bars I might need to make friends with a lawyer though. Forget it. I actually got a good wife this time… I kind of want to keep her around…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


Having dealt with exactly the situation you are dealing with, I depend on stud location. I never assume where the stud will be. And I am sure you don't either. Except for work in my shop I hire it done…....wait a minute, this is work in your shop!!. OK, in my shop I do stuff myself. Not beyond asking for help from Sherie. But I admit, I have not been hanging drywall. I run some electric, hang some cabinets, etc.

OK, could you have a sheetrock hanging bee?........and promise to reciprocate?

You know what is happening to you, why you can't rally the troops? You are getting old, yes old, content, good marriage, the whole nine yards. You are a victim of circumstance…..good circumstance. Things could be worse.

I admit it, I don't have a solution. Mostly I just hire people, which may not work for you. But you ought to think about it.

Well, here at the vacation home….settling down after dinner. The last few days I made a small cabinet, basically a 12" cube to house all my internet gizmos. Not easy, since this shop is pretty limited. But I will blog about it, because what it replaces is pretty ludicrous.

Today I again had a foray into the Grizzly showroom at their corporate headquarters in Bellingham, WA. 30 miles from here. Bought some measuring and sharpening gear. But the array of woodworking and metal working machinery is really something. They also sell all kinds of stuff that they don't make, so it is really a great store. Sure wish they had a store like that in Anchorage.

Well have a good one. Get creative in finding help.

Have a good evening…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Okay I admit it. I work SLOWLY sometimes...*
> 
> After some unexpected issues over the last two weekends, I ended up with not much else done to my drywall. I did manage to get my remaining upper panel cut. If I can con LOML into helping me out tonight, I should be able to get that up into place this evening, and then start on the bottom. Once the top is finished, I need to insure the stud locations are VERY clearly marked, and then get to work on making a panel lifting jig to jam the lower pieces into place so I can get the screws started… I don't look forward to the second lower panel. I have pipes, outlets, and access holes I need to insure are there for the main water shutoff etc… that I need to work around. Yuck…
> 
> Funny thing is, when I was younger, I had the friends available to do these sorts of projects, but no money to do them in, now I have some funds, all my friends are busy raising their families, no time to work on these sorts of projects… Stinks..


I would have hired the job out. LOML doesn't want strangers in the shop. She's worried someone will break in while we are at work…


----------



## dbhost

*Back to the wall after the LONG wait!*

Well, just a quick touch base here. I finally got the help I desperately have been needing to get my last upper panel of drywall in place and screwed in. I am now moved on to the lower half of the wall. The first bottom panel is cut and almost ready to go in (need to trim just a hair, have some measurements off a smidge… ).

I spent a little bit of time last night getting rid of junk. The scrap metal guys got a huge win for sure… I pitched the old pull off brush guard off of the truck, as well as the old ruined rotors from the truck, and rotors / drums from the Saturn.

I managed to toss out a full 55 gallon bag full of garbage cutoffs of MDF, OSB, and other junk material. Not to mention junk rags etc…

Tonight I have planned to climb back up the ladder and continue with the trim work in between wall and ceiling in living room, to finish the one remaining wall, paint that remaining wall, spray in gloss white the wall register, and pull back the carpet away from the trim so we can finish up the trim paint in the living room…

I am not sure if I am going to throw cheap fast laminate flooring down, or just stain and seal the concrete slab, but if things keep moving fast they way they have, I will have to make a decision SOON! By the time I rush through and get all these jobs done, I bet I will be moving out and letting someone else enjoy the fruits of my labor… Ugh.


----------



## Holt

dbhost said:


> *Back to the wall after the LONG wait!*
> 
> Well, just a quick touch base here. I finally got the help I desperately have been needing to get my last upper panel of drywall in place and screwed in. I am now moved on to the lower half of the wall. The first bottom panel is cut and almost ready to go in (need to trim just a hair, have some measurements off a smidge… ).
> 
> I spent a little bit of time last night getting rid of junk. The scrap metal guys got a huge win for sure… I pitched the old pull off brush guard off of the truck, as well as the old ruined rotors from the truck, and rotors / drums from the Saturn.
> 
> I managed to toss out a full 55 gallon bag full of garbage cutoffs of MDF, OSB, and other junk material. Not to mention junk rags etc…
> 
> Tonight I have planned to climb back up the ladder and continue with the trim work in between wall and ceiling in living room, to finish the one remaining wall, paint that remaining wall, spray in gloss white the wall register, and pull back the carpet away from the trim so we can finish up the trim paint in the living room…
> 
> I am not sure if I am going to throw cheap fast laminate flooring down, or just stain and seal the concrete slab, but if things keep moving fast they way they have, I will have to make a decision SOON! By the time I rush through and get all these jobs done, I bet I will be moving out and letting someone else enjoy the fruits of my labor… Ugh.


I saw a post someplace where someone covered their concrete shop floor with Dri-core,sealed it, and called it done. I've read about tons of problems with putting wood flooring directly over concrete, so if you were going to Dir-core first anyway…

I've never touched the stuff, so my one worry was how well do the squares interlock? Be a pain if the joints kept separating under normal shop conditions.

One big drawback to just concrete is the wear and tear on your knees and back. I sure feel it after a long day in the shop.


----------



## dbhost

*Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*

The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.

#1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.

#2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..

#3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…

#4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…

#5. Re-arrange my large tools.

#6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.

Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…

#1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.

#2. Install insulation.

#3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.

#4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*
> 
> The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.
> 
> #1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.
> 
> #2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..
> 
> #3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…
> 
> #4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…
> 
> #5. Re-arrange my large tools.
> 
> #6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.
> 
> Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…
> 
> #1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.
> 
> #2. Install insulation.
> 
> #3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.
> 
> #4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


Hey David, glad to see you are organized and checking things off the list. I have been too busy at times, but it has finally slowed down to something more reasonable. I have this coming weekend off, but I am on call for Dec 24, 25, and 26. On the 27th, we go to La Conner, and will actually celebrate New Years there. Can't remember the last time I even acknowledged that New Years exists, since I was on call every year for New Years for about a decade.

I am tackling the project from hell, dustproofing my old contractor's saw. I should have just bought a new saw. I have a Rigid TS at La Conner that handles the sawdust much better, and the saw itself works quite well. Off to get a little exercise, and then down to the shop, since this morning is quiet, and I don't have to be to the office until noon on Tuesdays….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*
> 
> The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.
> 
> #1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.
> 
> #2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..
> 
> #3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…
> 
> #4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…
> 
> #5. Re-arrange my large tools.
> 
> #6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.
> 
> Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…
> 
> #1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.
> 
> #2. Install insulation.
> 
> #3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.
> 
> #4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


Yeah, LOML and I went to Hot Springs, Little Rock, and Memphis for a vacation right before thanksgiving… I have been working on my truck which is now leaking tranny fluid. That puts it in the category of paying a shop to do that…

I have removed the carpet and tack strip from the living room. I am patching the divots from the tack strip and sanding the floor smooth while abusing the snot out of a HF 4×24 belt sander in the process. I managed to rig it to work with my shop vac cyclone so dust isn't that much of a problem…

I have to hurry up and get the shop done though. Once the floor is level and smooth, I am going to be milling up plank flooring using plywood… I know it sounds funny, but I have seen it done on slab floors. Mine meters out dry enough it won't be a problem… so for the cost of some cheap ply, quite a bit of leveling compound, a few sanding belts, some liquid nails and LOTS of labor, I should end up with a good wooden floor…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*
> 
> The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.
> 
> #1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.
> 
> #2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..
> 
> #3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…
> 
> #4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…
> 
> #5. Re-arrange my large tools.
> 
> #6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.
> 
> Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…
> 
> #1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.
> 
> #2. Install insulation.
> 
> #3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.
> 
> #4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


Your wood floor plans sound interesting. I assume you cut up the plywood into planks to allow for movement, and probably for appearance. Can't see any reason it wouldn't work. Would you finish all sides of each plank, or just do the exposed surface? I also assume you use 3/4" underlayment plywood, or some such.

The transmission fluid thing is the pits. From what little I know about transmission repairs, it is an arena full of scammers and incompetents. I always use the dealer for my repairs, and part of buying a car for me, is to pick a good dealer. You have one up because of your past experience, and you will be able to evaluate what is going on. Perhaps you know how to pick a good repair shop as well.

I don't think I am going to ever put a wood floor in my shop area here. I seem to tolerate standing on the concrete quite well, but that isn't true for many people.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*
> 
> The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.
> 
> #1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.
> 
> #2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..
> 
> #3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…
> 
> #4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…
> 
> #5. Re-arrange my large tools.
> 
> #6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.
> 
> Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…
> 
> #1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.
> 
> #2. Install insulation.
> 
> #3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.
> 
> #4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


The assumption of the plywood underlayment is the only part where you are off…

I am slab on grade, I would have to remove every bit of flooring and molding to accomodate 3/4" underlayment AND flooring. The idea is simply to do the following…

#1. Rip 1/2" ply into planks and T&G the ends sort of mimicking laminate.
#2. Finish all exposed surfaces except the bottom. This means sanding, sanding sealer, stain, and several coats of urethane.
#3. Bond an underlayment to the bottom of the ply using liquid nails. Such that the ply, and underlayment combined are no greater than 3/4" thick, again, slab on grade construction…
#4. Install flooring just as I would a regular Pergo, or other laminate floor. Basically it would be installed as a floating floor over the slab.
#5. Create and install any new transitions.

I have seen this done in several local commercial installations and it works actually quite well. I can get in around $.75 sq / ft installed by going this way, plus I can get wide planks that I just can't do with laminate / hardwood. So if I wanted to go with say a 6" wide plank floor, I can…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*
> 
> The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.
> 
> #1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.
> 
> #2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..
> 
> #3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…
> 
> #4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…
> 
> #5. Re-arrange my large tools.
> 
> #6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.
> 
> Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…
> 
> #1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.
> 
> #2. Install insulation.
> 
> #3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.
> 
> #4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


Das a complex…........

T&G just for the ends?

What I meant, was to use underlayment plywood as the flooring, i.e. 3/4" thick. So what kind of plywood do you use for the top part?

I wonder if it would work to have a 3 layer board with the middle layer offset to form the tongue and groove on all 4 edges, thereby avoiding milling. Just brainstorming, this is kind of a fun scenario….......at least for me….......and I don't have to do the work…......(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Been out for a while, getting back to finishing the shop...*
> 
> The shop has been dismantled for far too long. My weekend plan includes shop time. Specifically trimming and mounting the lower drywall segments along the north wall. The east / door wall segment needs to have the blow in insulation, well blown in. Once all buttoned up, and the drywall taped / mudded and at least one if not two coats of paint, the following has to take place.
> 
> #1. Clean, clean clean. Get everything staged to install and move.
> 
> #2. Install the french cleat system, and tool cabinets. Include installing the "bridge" between the cabs, and the tack on shelves for small jars / sanding media etc..
> 
> #3. Move the tool stacker system to the other side of the room. I will place it roughly at the same spot that the table saw ends… This is by design and measurement…
> 
> #4. Clean up and dispose of any waste material. Any scrap that I am not going to use within the next year needs to go into the kindling bucket to go to the deer lease…
> 
> #5. Re-arrange my large tools.
> 
> #6. Complete the miter saw cabinet / drawer assemblies. Get the cabinet 100% functional.
> 
> Once everything is back up in place, I move on to the last phase of the project…
> 
> #1. Clear out south wall, remove damaged (which is pretty much all) sheet rock.
> 
> #2. Install insulation.
> 
> #3. Install fresh sheet rock, tape, texture, paint, reinstall lumber rack.
> 
> #4. Build rolling clamp / safety equipment rack.


Tongue on one side and one edge, groove opposing, just like the factory made flooring.

I was planning on using 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. And I am not wedded to the T&G idea. if I could get it to work right, biscuits would make for fast work on that flooring with minimal alignment hassles…

The tile / mastic I am transitioning to is a total of 5/8" from surface to slab. My idea here is that I know I will likely end up with a underlayment / plank / adhesive stack that totals just under 3/4" using 1/2" ply and 1/8" underlayment. Transition to tile should be fairly simple with that difference.

Again, the idea is to have the whole thing sort of stuck together, but floating off the concrete flooring. Same way that laminate does.


----------



## dbhost

*Weekend project list. Prepping for Christmas and a happy new year too!*

It is WAY past time that these walls got buttoned up, the weather is supposed to be warmish, but WET this weekend. So my plans are more or less made for me. Assuming LOML doesn't change my schedule for me..

#1. Finish smoothing out the rough spots on the concrete slab in the living room. Knock out the tile by the back door, and level / smooth that area too. Double check for low spots, fill as necessary.

#2. Clear out niche corner of shop where mechanics box is, wiggle into the corner, trim and install first lower drywall panel. Once the first is in, notches in 2nd can be measured for, and cut. After 2nd, the only cutouts needed in any of the drywall is for the outlets. I should be able to have at least the drywall UP by the end of the day tomorrow.

#3. Size and install lower piece to far left upper panel below sub panel. I made a measurement mistake and need to correct it… Not a huge deal, but I will need to install a 2" wide x however long (I think 12") segment of drywall, and some reinforcement ply underneath to screw to in order to close up a stupidity gap…

#4. Start cleaning, putting away mechanics tools that are now a disorganized mess in the front of the shop by the door.

#5. IF time permits, spray foam insulate the between door wall segment in the garage. My goal if the kit allows me to stop / restart the application is to fill the entire cavity with spray foam such that I have 3 to 3.5" of insulation in here.

With that stuff done. and the tools put up, I will clear the crud off of the workbench tot he best of my ability, and lay down newspaper in preparation for wrapping the Christmas gifts…

I have already picked out and gotten all but the gifts for the household. (LOML should be happy, she is getting Prada and Coach for Christmas this year…). For the house / the fix it stuff LOML wants done I figure I will slip in…

#1. 9 light wrought iron chandelier for the dining room. Our home is leaning toward an antiqued patina / rustic style, although the wrought iron isn't 100% matching of our other lighting, this is the one LOML wants to go with she doesn't like the Chandelier that matches our lights…

An I-O-U for the flooring plywood. Since our truck is presently sick, and will remain so until after the new year, I need to give her an IOU on this. I can't haul plywood all that well with the Saturn, and I am NOT driving the truck with that huge transmission leak…

You see about 2 weeks after LOML and I got back from our Hot Springs vacation, the tranny started, well not wanting to go into gear. Now I had an oversize trans cooler installed prior to the trip, so having low fluid wasn't a shock. I topped it off, and didn't see a leak at first, then we went to Galveston and back and the slip returned. Looked again, low again… Looked under the truck and it was soaking red. Pulled the inspection plug, and sure enough the flex plate area is soaked. Chances are good it is just a transmission front seal, but I am no tranny guy, so I will let the pro mechanics handle this issue… This is one of those times I wish my truck wasn't 4 wheel drive. That will pass the next tropical storm or hurricane comes though though…

Unless either my back, or LOML change my priorities for me, it is looking like I will be starting 2014 out with fresh walls, and my shop starting to have the wall mounted "stuff" put back in place. The next phase will be to insulate the non powered wall. This isn't a huge deal, but it isn't nothing either… I am figuring on doing the cut the hole in the top of the wall, and blow the insulation in until it is full, then seal up the wall…

Once I have the shop back in truly working shape, I have been given a task that requires some shopping… LOML is getting interested in custom turned pens. A coworker of hers has been selling pens her dad makes, and she wants me to try my hand at it. Something I have been wanting to do for a while. Would love to see it done a few times, maybe take the class at woodcraft to get some supervised practice and then tackle the snot out of it at home… I have a brother in law that I think would love a bolt action / walnut pen for sure for next Christmas!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Weekend project list. Prepping for Christmas and a happy new year too!*
> 
> It is WAY past time that these walls got buttoned up, the weather is supposed to be warmish, but WET this weekend. So my plans are more or less made for me. Assuming LOML doesn't change my schedule for me..
> 
> #1. Finish smoothing out the rough spots on the concrete slab in the living room. Knock out the tile by the back door, and level / smooth that area too. Double check for low spots, fill as necessary.
> 
> #2. Clear out niche corner of shop where mechanics box is, wiggle into the corner, trim and install first lower drywall panel. Once the first is in, notches in 2nd can be measured for, and cut. After 2nd, the only cutouts needed in any of the drywall is for the outlets. I should be able to have at least the drywall UP by the end of the day tomorrow.
> 
> #3. Size and install lower piece to far left upper panel below sub panel. I made a measurement mistake and need to correct it… Not a huge deal, but I will need to install a 2" wide x however long (I think 12") segment of drywall, and some reinforcement ply underneath to screw to in order to close up a stupidity gap…
> 
> #4. Start cleaning, putting away mechanics tools that are now a disorganized mess in the front of the shop by the door.
> 
> #5. IF time permits, spray foam insulate the between door wall segment in the garage. My goal if the kit allows me to stop / restart the application is to fill the entire cavity with spray foam such that I have 3 to 3.5" of insulation in here.
> 
> With that stuff done. and the tools put up, I will clear the crud off of the workbench tot he best of my ability, and lay down newspaper in preparation for wrapping the Christmas gifts…
> 
> I have already picked out and gotten all but the gifts for the household. (LOML should be happy, she is getting Prada and Coach for Christmas this year…). For the house / the fix it stuff LOML wants done I figure I will slip in…
> 
> #1. 9 light wrought iron chandelier for the dining room. Our home is leaning toward an antiqued patina / rustic style, although the wrought iron isn't 100% matching of our other lighting, this is the one LOML wants to go with she doesn't like the Chandelier that matches our lights…
> 
> An I-O-U for the flooring plywood. Since our truck is presently sick, and will remain so until after the new year, I need to give her an IOU on this. I can't haul plywood all that well with the Saturn, and I am NOT driving the truck with that huge transmission leak…
> 
> You see about 2 weeks after LOML and I got back from our Hot Springs vacation, the tranny started, well not wanting to go into gear. Now I had an oversize trans cooler installed prior to the trip, so having low fluid wasn't a shock. I topped it off, and didn't see a leak at first, then we went to Galveston and back and the slip returned. Looked again, low again… Looked under the truck and it was soaking red. Pulled the inspection plug, and sure enough the flex plate area is soaked. Chances are good it is just a transmission front seal, but I am no tranny guy, so I will let the pro mechanics handle this issue… This is one of those times I wish my truck wasn't 4 wheel drive. That will pass the next tropical storm or hurricane comes though though…
> 
> Unless either my back, or LOML change my priorities for me, it is looking like I will be starting 2014 out with fresh walls, and my shop starting to have the wall mounted "stuff" put back in place. The next phase will be to insulate the non powered wall. This isn't a huge deal, but it isn't nothing either… I am figuring on doing the cut the hole in the top of the wall, and blow the insulation in until it is full, then seal up the wall…
> 
> Once I have the shop back in truly working shape, I have been given a task that requires some shopping… LOML is getting interested in custom turned pens. A coworker of hers has been selling pens her dad makes, and she wants me to try my hand at it. Something I have been wanting to do for a while. Would love to see it done a few times, maybe take the class at woodcraft to get some supervised practice and then tackle the snot out of it at home… I have a brother in law that I think would love a bolt action / walnut pen for sure for next Christmas!


As usual, you sound way too organized. Yesterday I was going to do a bunch of shop time, but got lugged down diagnosing a computer weird event. I was moving some files from my left side computer (a throw away HP machine I bought a year ago for under $400) to my right side computer, another similar machine from HP, also under $400. Got both of these on sale by buying from Best Buy on line, and picking it up at the store. They have replace old computers that just failed or were too slow. It is amazing how much computer you can get in a mini-tower under $400 if you work the sales. With a Core i3 processor, on board video, 1 TB drive, and 8 gig of ram, they just run circles around my old XP gaming machine that I bought 11 years ago. Intel has really boosted the on board video.

Anyway, to make a long story short, it was either some remote capability from HP, or a couple of other pieces of software that installed at bootup and must have malfunctioned, because the left side computer ground to almost a halt. Using Task Manager and the System Configuration utility, I disabled those three services, and the computer sprang back to life. For awhile, I thought I had a networking hardware failure. Don't have the foggiest idea what changed over night, probably an unexpected effect of some update. I only have Win 8 machines now, except for my main Win 7 Falcon Northwest gaming hotrod which is where I do most of my computing stuff. It has to remain Win 7 for awhile due to some legacy programming stuff.

So today, hopefully I will make a simple iPad stand for my wife to use in the kitchen, so she can read recipes. She uses the iPad hours each day to check news, and play Words with Friends. She has even been known to purchase a thing or two on it. I recently had to replace her 11 year old XP machine with a Win 8 Asus, purchased to be her computer for a number of years, so it is considerably better than my HP pair. She manages our financial stuff on that machine so it has to be a workhorse. In one year I had to replace 3 desktops, and got a new portable for work.

So, here's hoping I get the iPad stand done, and here's hoping you get your list accomplished in some reasonable time frame.

Later….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Weekend project list. Prepping for Christmas and a happy new year too!*
> 
> It is WAY past time that these walls got buttoned up, the weather is supposed to be warmish, but WET this weekend. So my plans are more or less made for me. Assuming LOML doesn't change my schedule for me..
> 
> #1. Finish smoothing out the rough spots on the concrete slab in the living room. Knock out the tile by the back door, and level / smooth that area too. Double check for low spots, fill as necessary.
> 
> #2. Clear out niche corner of shop where mechanics box is, wiggle into the corner, trim and install first lower drywall panel. Once the first is in, notches in 2nd can be measured for, and cut. After 2nd, the only cutouts needed in any of the drywall is for the outlets. I should be able to have at least the drywall UP by the end of the day tomorrow.
> 
> #3. Size and install lower piece to far left upper panel below sub panel. I made a measurement mistake and need to correct it… Not a huge deal, but I will need to install a 2" wide x however long (I think 12") segment of drywall, and some reinforcement ply underneath to screw to in order to close up a stupidity gap…
> 
> #4. Start cleaning, putting away mechanics tools that are now a disorganized mess in the front of the shop by the door.
> 
> #5. IF time permits, spray foam insulate the between door wall segment in the garage. My goal if the kit allows me to stop / restart the application is to fill the entire cavity with spray foam such that I have 3 to 3.5" of insulation in here.
> 
> With that stuff done. and the tools put up, I will clear the crud off of the workbench tot he best of my ability, and lay down newspaper in preparation for wrapping the Christmas gifts…
> 
> I have already picked out and gotten all but the gifts for the household. (LOML should be happy, she is getting Prada and Coach for Christmas this year…). For the house / the fix it stuff LOML wants done I figure I will slip in…
> 
> #1. 9 light wrought iron chandelier for the dining room. Our home is leaning toward an antiqued patina / rustic style, although the wrought iron isn't 100% matching of our other lighting, this is the one LOML wants to go with she doesn't like the Chandelier that matches our lights…
> 
> An I-O-U for the flooring plywood. Since our truck is presently sick, and will remain so until after the new year, I need to give her an IOU on this. I can't haul plywood all that well with the Saturn, and I am NOT driving the truck with that huge transmission leak…
> 
> You see about 2 weeks after LOML and I got back from our Hot Springs vacation, the tranny started, well not wanting to go into gear. Now I had an oversize trans cooler installed prior to the trip, so having low fluid wasn't a shock. I topped it off, and didn't see a leak at first, then we went to Galveston and back and the slip returned. Looked again, low again… Looked under the truck and it was soaking red. Pulled the inspection plug, and sure enough the flex plate area is soaked. Chances are good it is just a transmission front seal, but I am no tranny guy, so I will let the pro mechanics handle this issue… This is one of those times I wish my truck wasn't 4 wheel drive. That will pass the next tropical storm or hurricane comes though though…
> 
> Unless either my back, or LOML change my priorities for me, it is looking like I will be starting 2014 out with fresh walls, and my shop starting to have the wall mounted "stuff" put back in place. The next phase will be to insulate the non powered wall. This isn't a huge deal, but it isn't nothing either… I am figuring on doing the cut the hole in the top of the wall, and blow the insulation in until it is full, then seal up the wall…
> 
> Once I have the shop back in truly working shape, I have been given a task that requires some shopping… LOML is getting interested in custom turned pens. A coworker of hers has been selling pens her dad makes, and she wants me to try my hand at it. Something I have been wanting to do for a while. Would love to see it done a few times, maybe take the class at woodcraft to get some supervised practice and then tackle the snot out of it at home… I have a brother in law that I think would love a bolt action / walnut pen for sure for next Christmas!


Well, I got the first lower panel in place, and realized I can't find a single one of my driver bits. Too late to go to Home Depot, so it will wait until tomorrow… Got the tile wrecked out though, and spent SOME, but not much time on the living room floor project. Not motivated right now. No Christmas tree up, good thing we have no kids…

LOML has been having a lot of problems with the gossipy women at her office lately, and has been very upset about the situation, so I have spent most of the weekend being a dutiful husband and letting her vent at me. I wonder if she'd be offended if I arranged for her sister to call for a chat?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Weekend project list. Prepping for Christmas and a happy new year too!*
> 
> It is WAY past time that these walls got buttoned up, the weather is supposed to be warmish, but WET this weekend. So my plans are more or less made for me. Assuming LOML doesn't change my schedule for me..
> 
> #1. Finish smoothing out the rough spots on the concrete slab in the living room. Knock out the tile by the back door, and level / smooth that area too. Double check for low spots, fill as necessary.
> 
> #2. Clear out niche corner of shop where mechanics box is, wiggle into the corner, trim and install first lower drywall panel. Once the first is in, notches in 2nd can be measured for, and cut. After 2nd, the only cutouts needed in any of the drywall is for the outlets. I should be able to have at least the drywall UP by the end of the day tomorrow.
> 
> #3. Size and install lower piece to far left upper panel below sub panel. I made a measurement mistake and need to correct it… Not a huge deal, but I will need to install a 2" wide x however long (I think 12") segment of drywall, and some reinforcement ply underneath to screw to in order to close up a stupidity gap…
> 
> #4. Start cleaning, putting away mechanics tools that are now a disorganized mess in the front of the shop by the door.
> 
> #5. IF time permits, spray foam insulate the between door wall segment in the garage. My goal if the kit allows me to stop / restart the application is to fill the entire cavity with spray foam such that I have 3 to 3.5" of insulation in here.
> 
> With that stuff done. and the tools put up, I will clear the crud off of the workbench tot he best of my ability, and lay down newspaper in preparation for wrapping the Christmas gifts…
> 
> I have already picked out and gotten all but the gifts for the household. (LOML should be happy, she is getting Prada and Coach for Christmas this year…). For the house / the fix it stuff LOML wants done I figure I will slip in…
> 
> #1. 9 light wrought iron chandelier for the dining room. Our home is leaning toward an antiqued patina / rustic style, although the wrought iron isn't 100% matching of our other lighting, this is the one LOML wants to go with she doesn't like the Chandelier that matches our lights…
> 
> An I-O-U for the flooring plywood. Since our truck is presently sick, and will remain so until after the new year, I need to give her an IOU on this. I can't haul plywood all that well with the Saturn, and I am NOT driving the truck with that huge transmission leak…
> 
> You see about 2 weeks after LOML and I got back from our Hot Springs vacation, the tranny started, well not wanting to go into gear. Now I had an oversize trans cooler installed prior to the trip, so having low fluid wasn't a shock. I topped it off, and didn't see a leak at first, then we went to Galveston and back and the slip returned. Looked again, low again… Looked under the truck and it was soaking red. Pulled the inspection plug, and sure enough the flex plate area is soaked. Chances are good it is just a transmission front seal, but I am no tranny guy, so I will let the pro mechanics handle this issue… This is one of those times I wish my truck wasn't 4 wheel drive. That will pass the next tropical storm or hurricane comes though though…
> 
> Unless either my back, or LOML change my priorities for me, it is looking like I will be starting 2014 out with fresh walls, and my shop starting to have the wall mounted "stuff" put back in place. The next phase will be to insulate the non powered wall. This isn't a huge deal, but it isn't nothing either… I am figuring on doing the cut the hole in the top of the wall, and blow the insulation in until it is full, then seal up the wall…
> 
> Once I have the shop back in truly working shape, I have been given a task that requires some shopping… LOML is getting interested in custom turned pens. A coworker of hers has been selling pens her dad makes, and she wants me to try my hand at it. Something I have been wanting to do for a while. Would love to see it done a few times, maybe take the class at woodcraft to get some supervised practice and then tackle the snot out of it at home… I have a brother in law that I think would love a bolt action / walnut pen for sure for next Christmas!


OK, got the iPad stand done.

Christmas Tree…........we got the artificial thing with preinstalled lights up, hung our decorations a few days ago. And Sherie did her Santa Claus collection display thing.

Re your LOML, I hate gossip, and all the personal stuff, which at work, needs to be ignored. I am sure you understand it is not about other people, it is about the family first. Yah, get her sister to call.

Sherie and I pretty much stick to that formula. If people are trying to take down others, it means that they need that to feel good about themselves. Which means they are not very happy in their life. Basically, anytime someone is beating on you, forget about it, and try to figure out what they are unhappy about. If they are worth it, try to help them, otherwise, ignore them.

Hope you and your family have a great Christmas…........

.........and forget the naysayers and the downers. We just have one life, and let's make the most of it…......

Merry Christmas to you and yours, thanks for being a good buddy….........

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Weekend project list. Prepping for Christmas and a happy new year too!*
> 
> It is WAY past time that these walls got buttoned up, the weather is supposed to be warmish, but WET this weekend. So my plans are more or less made for me. Assuming LOML doesn't change my schedule for me..
> 
> #1. Finish smoothing out the rough spots on the concrete slab in the living room. Knock out the tile by the back door, and level / smooth that area too. Double check for low spots, fill as necessary.
> 
> #2. Clear out niche corner of shop where mechanics box is, wiggle into the corner, trim and install first lower drywall panel. Once the first is in, notches in 2nd can be measured for, and cut. After 2nd, the only cutouts needed in any of the drywall is for the outlets. I should be able to have at least the drywall UP by the end of the day tomorrow.
> 
> #3. Size and install lower piece to far left upper panel below sub panel. I made a measurement mistake and need to correct it… Not a huge deal, but I will need to install a 2" wide x however long (I think 12") segment of drywall, and some reinforcement ply underneath to screw to in order to close up a stupidity gap…
> 
> #4. Start cleaning, putting away mechanics tools that are now a disorganized mess in the front of the shop by the door.
> 
> #5. IF time permits, spray foam insulate the between door wall segment in the garage. My goal if the kit allows me to stop / restart the application is to fill the entire cavity with spray foam such that I have 3 to 3.5" of insulation in here.
> 
> With that stuff done. and the tools put up, I will clear the crud off of the workbench tot he best of my ability, and lay down newspaper in preparation for wrapping the Christmas gifts…
> 
> I have already picked out and gotten all but the gifts for the household. (LOML should be happy, she is getting Prada and Coach for Christmas this year…). For the house / the fix it stuff LOML wants done I figure I will slip in…
> 
> #1. 9 light wrought iron chandelier for the dining room. Our home is leaning toward an antiqued patina / rustic style, although the wrought iron isn't 100% matching of our other lighting, this is the one LOML wants to go with she doesn't like the Chandelier that matches our lights…
> 
> An I-O-U for the flooring plywood. Since our truck is presently sick, and will remain so until after the new year, I need to give her an IOU on this. I can't haul plywood all that well with the Saturn, and I am NOT driving the truck with that huge transmission leak…
> 
> You see about 2 weeks after LOML and I got back from our Hot Springs vacation, the tranny started, well not wanting to go into gear. Now I had an oversize trans cooler installed prior to the trip, so having low fluid wasn't a shock. I topped it off, and didn't see a leak at first, then we went to Galveston and back and the slip returned. Looked again, low again… Looked under the truck and it was soaking red. Pulled the inspection plug, and sure enough the flex plate area is soaked. Chances are good it is just a transmission front seal, but I am no tranny guy, so I will let the pro mechanics handle this issue… This is one of those times I wish my truck wasn't 4 wheel drive. That will pass the next tropical storm or hurricane comes though though…
> 
> Unless either my back, or LOML change my priorities for me, it is looking like I will be starting 2014 out with fresh walls, and my shop starting to have the wall mounted "stuff" put back in place. The next phase will be to insulate the non powered wall. This isn't a huge deal, but it isn't nothing either… I am figuring on doing the cut the hole in the top of the wall, and blow the insulation in until it is full, then seal up the wall…
> 
> Once I have the shop back in truly working shape, I have been given a task that requires some shopping… LOML is getting interested in custom turned pens. A coworker of hers has been selling pens her dad makes, and she wants me to try my hand at it. Something I have been wanting to do for a while. Would love to see it done a few times, maybe take the class at woodcraft to get some supervised practice and then tackle the snot out of it at home… I have a brother in law that I think would love a bolt action / walnut pen for sure for next Christmas!


Among the other things I have told her, the most important I feel is that hurt people, hurt people. Meaning that something in her coworkers life is so terribly wrong that she has to lash out. If anything the woman is to be pitied…

We did spend a few hours visiting with some good friends from Church yesterday, cut into my schedule but it was nice to just idle away some time drinking coffee and putting our minds in the right place…


----------



## dbhost

*Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*

So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…

I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


----------



## lightweightladylefty

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


You should invite her to join you in the shop and encourage her to enjoy what you two accomplish together . . . right after you hang the chandelier together. Keep it fun! Best wishes.

L/W


----------



## lightweightladylefty

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


P.S. Don't make her mud or sand the drywall though . . . that is, if you want to keep her happy!

L/W


----------



## stefang

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Personally, I'm staying out of the shop until after New Year, except I might go out there and stand around for awhile off and on just to keep my sanity. Have a Merry Christmas!


----------



## Bogeyguy

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


I know where your coming from with that Stefang. Just a few minutes now and then.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


What can I say, shop time helps me keep my head in one piece…

Actually she has offered to hold the panels in place while I screw them in. She helped me get the upper panels in place already…

I am more than a little anxious to get this all in mud and tape. I most likely will not bother with any sort of texture, Simply skim coat it, tape it, even it up as best I can (the studs aren't exactly plumb / square…) slap some paint on it and then we have the fun of arranging…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


There are times to just get it done, I know about those. My least favorite stuff is old plumbing. Fortunately, you see less and less of the metal drain pipe that was the real nemesis. Now the plastic stuff just lasts forever, and doesn't start rotting from the rust. Dry wall has not been on my agenda for probably 20 years.

Christmas is at our house tomorrow, meaning about 10 to 12 of us. I am on call starting today for the next three days. I do not socialize well when I am on call. I am usually a little irritable, and Sherie plots to do things out of the house. I am sure, I will find a reason to be down in the shop some over the next few days.

I your case, I suspect you should take a cue from Mike, and avoid remodeling for the next couple of days. I think you will get a few life time points with your wife, and that will make life easier for the next week or two. I reminded Sherie that I will not be in good humor, and she understands and will work around that. 30 years of marriage do have their strong points…....

Merry Christmas to you and yours…...........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Well, for tonight, we are pretty much bailing out of work fastest possible, and heading over for the Christmas Eve candle light services, then home to let the dog out and throw on some warmer clothes, then down to Galveston to see the Moody Gardens festival of lights, we come home, wrap presents, spend some quality time with the pets and of course each other, and then fall down…

Christmas dinner will be quiet for once for us this year. Her Dad is spending the day with another one of the siblings, her kids, and grandkids. My youngest brother in law, the one that was staying with us (transplant patient) is off on his own, and has a girlfriend now, so he will be spending Christmas with her and her family this year… So it is just Debi, the cat, the dog and myself.

I am planning on being lazy tomororow. We are going to do a glazed ham which will take some time, but after that, just going with baked sweet potatoes, stuffed with butter, brown sugar, and marshmallows, then green bean casserole. Stove top stuffing because I am cooking and want to be lazy, and just warming up some yeast rolls…

With everything that is going on with her, the reason I was wanting to get into the shop was to also help take her mind off of the junk she is putting up with at work. If the truck wasn't sick, I would have had us take some time off, hook up a another BILs travel trailer they let us use when they aren't using it as long as we do maintenance on it, fair trade… and head out somewhere pretty… I bet Lake Texana is beautiful right about now… I have yet to convince her to go deer hunting with me, although she does like the rifle range.

Oh well, I am rambling on aimlessly now. I hope each and every one of y'all have a very Merry Christmas!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Glazed ham here as well, I do that. Sherie is making garlic mashed potatoes, fresh home made dinner rolls, and pumpkin and pecan pies. Only 7 of us this Christmas, so a little quieter than normal….....

Have a great holiday….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Been a casual Christmas at our home. I have a busy weekend scheduled though.

#1. I am now required to install a chandelier in the dining room, and apply the second coat of paint to the big wall where the original color is bleeding through.

#2. Install the cold air intake tube on the truck.

#3. Finish hanging the drywall in the shop. Get it in the first layer of mud.

That's it. I figure I will stop at an achievable goal…


----------



## oldnovice

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


I don't mind dry wall, electrical work, but I hate plumbing! Why would anyone think it is wrong to be in the workshop today. We have people around here blowing leaves and setting off fire crackers so working in the shop is within that spectrum!

We had one of the Iowa smoked hams (Bell Mills) ... IMO, the best ham in the world and I live in San Jose. I am tired of the Honey glazed hams that all taste the same and are way too sweet. This is our second year with that ham and we have not been dissapointed. Out local grocer sells the Bell Mills ham and also Iowa pork chops …. yummy! These aren't your average chop, about 3/4" thick and smoked to perfection!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Well, my schedule I am sure is more doable. Although I am on call for the net 32 hours, I then hop on a plane and will end up in La Conner on Friday afternoon, for a 9 day stay. We will eat out, and the next morning I will casually answer some email, and then then revive the shop to complete a couple of shop projects while I am there. Sherie has a great quilting and sewing setup there, and I have my shop. Our recreation there is quite varied, but frankly, I really like the shop work in a total non-stress environment.

The first shop project is my torsion box bench, that is nearly done, except for the last pedestal. Saw horses were not stable enough, so I am making nesting pedestals, one bigger than the other, horizontally but the same height. That makes it possible to take down the bench quickly and stow it away efficiently. The next thing to do is improve the stationary bench, which actually sits on saw horses. It is a cheap solid core door with 1/2" plywood sheathing on top. I will beef it up along the sides with some pine, most likely, and reinforce it with some rails to take a wood vise, already purchased. Then I will substitute some pedestal framework for the sawhorses to make the whole arrangement more solid. Then the following trip I will be able to add shelves or drawers to the pedestals.

I now have a good assortment of power tools there, including table saw, band saw, miter saw, plunge saw, router, and orbital sander. And the usual assortment of drills and drivers. Still in the box are a scroll saw, drill press, and Rigid belt-spindle sander. I really don't need anything other major tools other than perhaps a jointer and planer, but I am not going to rush to get those.

The in the box stuff is tools selected for a small shop. I was able to fit a band saw and table saw much to my surprise, although they have to be rolled out from the wall to be used. It is a two car garage, but has a generous length, and kind of an alcove on one side that fits much of my shop. It takes me ten minutes at most to set up shop, and 15 minutes or less to take it down depending on how much sweeping I do. I have to remove one car to do significant shop work, so I put away the shop every night. It is really much easier than I expected, with the table saw, band saw, and the torsion box bench the only things that are moved out and then put away.

So hope you have a creative and restful holidays. I am looking forward to the time off.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Going well. Spent an hour out there tonight. Found a full set of Husky polished S.A.E. wrenches I forgot I owned…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


My biggest embarrassment is when I buy something, bring it home and find out later I already have one. The happens more often in La Conner, since work in the shop there is episodic, according to our vacations. Oh well, getting ready to get on the plane. It will take me a few days to unwind…..............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


Well long story short, before I started back in an actual college, out of high school I went to a tech school to be an auto mechanic (this was prior to me moving to Texas and finding out what HOT is…). I had the school issued tool set which included S.A.E. and metric combination wrenches, sockets, ratchets etc… All Stanley Proto U.S.A. forged stuff. Unfortunately through the years most of it has been either lost, or broken, and unlike Craftsman, or Snap On, the Proto warranty is exceedingly difficult to get honored anywhere. So I have slowly replaced the proto stuff with Snap On when I was a working mechanic, and in the years since, Husky and Craftsman.

I rarely use SAE as most, but not all fasteners on my vehicles for the last 20 years have been metric. So I sort of forgot about buying this set. About the only time I use SAE these days is when working on something with the house, or working on a pre 1980 automobile… I sold my last one of those about 8 years ago. Oh well…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Have I mentioned I HATE drywall?*
> 
> So I went to the big blue box today at lunch, I used the drywall screw setter bits as an excuse. I managed to get in and get the chandelier that LOML has been wanting for a few years. I went into the shop and wrapped it, and then proceeded to install the first of the lower segments to the wall. The remainders should be easy peasy…
> 
> I wonder if LOML will be offended if I work on the shop on Wednesday?


My first set of double ended socket wrenches was metric, because I was in Taiwan at the time, and a lot of the stuff was metric. That was about 1969. I still have that set on my pegboard. I have accumulated a generic set of both metric and SAE stuff over the years, and need both. I am here in La Conner, now, where I have a Husky 252 piece basic metric and SAE set. It is adequate for most of my general needs here, and a tremendous bargain. Nice stowable plastic case. Husky is hard to beat for some items. Kobalt, the Lowes house brand, is less consistent, but seems to be getting better.

I don't do any auto work anymore, but I used to do some basic stuff, and did a lot of stuff for my motorhome when I had it.

Funny, on the way here to La Conner, I said to myself, "I have to buy a label maker to label the plastic drawer sets". Then this morning, I noted I already have one, still in the box….....(-:

Had a great day yesterday, even though I was tired from being up on Thursday night helping with a csection. I watched a silly science fiction movie on the plane, Pacific Rim. But it had great graphics and a fun story line. The "DigiPlayers" that Alaska Air Lines has on its longer flights are really great. They come free in first class, and that's where I always fly, one of my indulgences for being old and still working.

I am really looking forward to working in the shop this trip, just went down and turned on the electric heater to take the chill off. The heater is a 220V high airflow cheapo thing from HD that works like a dream. I have had my complaints about the big boxes over the years, but they seem to be developing house brands that hit the sweet spot for quality and value. HD is a couple steps ahead of Lowes with HD's Rigid, Husky, and Empire brands being really good. And both HD and Lowes take returns with zero comment. Occasionally Sears outdoes both HD and Lowes with their Craftsman brand. That brand has been a wild ride over the decades.

Later….....


----------



## dbhost

*More shop cleanup. Making progress. I forgot I had some of this stuff!*

It wasn't a lot of time I could get in the shop last night, but it was enough. I managed to get most (not all) of the mechanical project materials out of the way and stored where they belong. I had new tools that were purchased for the project, specifically a Harbor Freight ball joint press, and a set of 4×4 adapter cups that needed to be stowed that I finally managed to find a place for. And somehow I still have a friend's Harbor Freight R134A manifold gauge, hoses, and can tap. I am going to need to use it on my Saturn, but I thought I gave it back to him a year ago… So I called my friend up, and he is, well not that worried about it… Oh well…

But I digress.

Tonight is going to be a bit messier. It would appear that an old tube of wheel bearing grease got out of a box, and managed to get stepped on. So tonight I need to get in there with a trash can, some rags, and some, well I am not sure. Brake Cleaner, or mineral spirits or what, but I need to clean that grease off my floor!

If the mudding and taping were already done, the area where the dust collector lives would be ready for it, it's stand, the separator, and the small air compressor to move back in. I really ought to get rid of that little 8 gallon HF compressor, but I would hate to see it go to waste. If there are any LJs members in the Houston / Galveston metro area that would be interested in picking this up on the cheap, drop me a PM and make me an offer. It works great, and I have added an extended drain pipe / bleeder valve to make it easier to drain…

Anyway, once I manage to get some room to work in that area, I can mark, cut down, and trim the holes in the next piece of sheetrock. My studs aren't ending up at exactly 8' so I am ending up having to do some weird trimming… How this house ever passed inspection is beyond me, but that is another discussion…

Once that panel is in place, the remaining panel only needs to be cut out for the electrical outlets.

Depending on the weather, and the specifications for the expanding foam, I suspect I will have sufficient time / weather to get the expanding foam insulation sprayed in between the garage doors so I can start buttoning up that section.

If you can't tell from my recent posts, I am starting to get very encouraged by the progress I have been making, within the last week in the shop, but in the last several months throughout the house. I am at the point house wise, that LOML is inspired to let me get the shop finished. She wants me to refinish the kitchen cabinets and I have convinced her I need shop space cleaned and set up for that. You know to strip the doors and drawer fronts, to cut out a 3/4" ply insert and make some cleats to replace the once wet now badly warped particle board base under the kitchen sink etc… And last but not least, once the shop is cleaned and configured per my design, the big upright deep freeze moves out of the kitchen and into the shop. (A pittance in room to pay to get the power run the way I wanted it, especially since one of our projects not too far down the road is a shed to move all of the lawn and garden care stuff into…).

I do have a couple of additions I need to make room for somehow, one is a small dorm room type fridge that I used to have under my desk at work. The other is I need to design make, and store a foldable gaming / poker table. It is infrequent that I do this, but I do enjoy a good cigar and scotch when playing poker with friends. I don't do this more than twice a year though… (For good reason!)...

I am thinking that at least when the construction and mechanic project debris is cleaned out, then I can get in and snap a photo or two to appease those that need to see pictures… It is encouraging to have progress though!


----------



## stefang

dbhost said:


> *More shop cleanup. Making progress. I forgot I had some of this stuff!*
> 
> It wasn't a lot of time I could get in the shop last night, but it was enough. I managed to get most (not all) of the mechanical project materials out of the way and stored where they belong. I had new tools that were purchased for the project, specifically a Harbor Freight ball joint press, and a set of 4×4 adapter cups that needed to be stowed that I finally managed to find a place for. And somehow I still have a friend's Harbor Freight R134A manifold gauge, hoses, and can tap. I am going to need to use it on my Saturn, but I thought I gave it back to him a year ago… So I called my friend up, and he is, well not that worried about it… Oh well…
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> Tonight is going to be a bit messier. It would appear that an old tube of wheel bearing grease got out of a box, and managed to get stepped on. So tonight I need to get in there with a trash can, some rags, and some, well I am not sure. Brake Cleaner, or mineral spirits or what, but I need to clean that grease off my floor!
> 
> If the mudding and taping were already done, the area where the dust collector lives would be ready for it, it's stand, the separator, and the small air compressor to move back in. I really ought to get rid of that little 8 gallon HF compressor, but I would hate to see it go to waste. If there are any LJs members in the Houston / Galveston metro area that would be interested in picking this up on the cheap, drop me a PM and make me an offer. It works great, and I have added an extended drain pipe / bleeder valve to make it easier to drain…
> 
> Anyway, once I manage to get some room to work in that area, I can mark, cut down, and trim the holes in the next piece of sheetrock. My studs aren't ending up at exactly 8' so I am ending up having to do some weird trimming… How this house ever passed inspection is beyond me, but that is another discussion…
> 
> Once that panel is in place, the remaining panel only needs to be cut out for the electrical outlets.
> 
> Depending on the weather, and the specifications for the expanding foam, I suspect I will have sufficient time / weather to get the expanding foam insulation sprayed in between the garage doors so I can start buttoning up that section.
> 
> If you can't tell from my recent posts, I am starting to get very encouraged by the progress I have been making, within the last week in the shop, but in the last several months throughout the house. I am at the point house wise, that LOML is inspired to let me get the shop finished. She wants me to refinish the kitchen cabinets and I have convinced her I need shop space cleaned and set up for that. You know to strip the doors and drawer fronts, to cut out a 3/4" ply insert and make some cleats to replace the once wet now badly warped particle board base under the kitchen sink etc… And last but not least, once the shop is cleaned and configured per my design, the big upright deep freeze moves out of the kitchen and into the shop. (A pittance in room to pay to get the power run the way I wanted it, especially since one of our projects not too far down the road is a shed to move all of the lawn and garden care stuff into…).
> 
> I do have a couple of additions I need to make room for somehow, one is a small dorm room type fridge that I used to have under my desk at work. The other is I need to design make, and store a foldable gaming / poker table. It is infrequent that I do this, but I do enjoy a good cigar and scotch when playing poker with friends. I don't do this more than twice a year though… (For good reason!)...
> 
> I am thinking that at least when the construction and mechanic project debris is cleaned out, then I can get in and snap a photo or two to appease those that need to see pictures… It is encouraging to have progress though!


Hearing your story makes me glad that in spite of my shop being rather small I don't have to share it with anything that isn't related to woodworking. I'm not saying this to gloat but just to remind myself how lucky I am, especially thinking about the many thousands who have to share their shops with washing machines, dryers, cars, freezers,garden tools, bicycles, etc. In my fantasies I even see the authorities taking my driving license away because of my age, which would allow me to get rid of the car and take over the garage as a workshop extension! Greed can put some strange and impractical thoughts in one's head. I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of your new shop.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More shop cleanup. Making progress. I forgot I had some of this stuff!*
> 
> It wasn't a lot of time I could get in the shop last night, but it was enough. I managed to get most (not all) of the mechanical project materials out of the way and stored where they belong. I had new tools that were purchased for the project, specifically a Harbor Freight ball joint press, and a set of 4×4 adapter cups that needed to be stowed that I finally managed to find a place for. And somehow I still have a friend's Harbor Freight R134A manifold gauge, hoses, and can tap. I am going to need to use it on my Saturn, but I thought I gave it back to him a year ago… So I called my friend up, and he is, well not that worried about it… Oh well…
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> Tonight is going to be a bit messier. It would appear that an old tube of wheel bearing grease got out of a box, and managed to get stepped on. So tonight I need to get in there with a trash can, some rags, and some, well I am not sure. Brake Cleaner, or mineral spirits or what, but I need to clean that grease off my floor!
> 
> If the mudding and taping were already done, the area where the dust collector lives would be ready for it, it's stand, the separator, and the small air compressor to move back in. I really ought to get rid of that little 8 gallon HF compressor, but I would hate to see it go to waste. If there are any LJs members in the Houston / Galveston metro area that would be interested in picking this up on the cheap, drop me a PM and make me an offer. It works great, and I have added an extended drain pipe / bleeder valve to make it easier to drain…
> 
> Anyway, once I manage to get some room to work in that area, I can mark, cut down, and trim the holes in the next piece of sheetrock. My studs aren't ending up at exactly 8' so I am ending up having to do some weird trimming… How this house ever passed inspection is beyond me, but that is another discussion…
> 
> Once that panel is in place, the remaining panel only needs to be cut out for the electrical outlets.
> 
> Depending on the weather, and the specifications for the expanding foam, I suspect I will have sufficient time / weather to get the expanding foam insulation sprayed in between the garage doors so I can start buttoning up that section.
> 
> If you can't tell from my recent posts, I am starting to get very encouraged by the progress I have been making, within the last week in the shop, but in the last several months throughout the house. I am at the point house wise, that LOML is inspired to let me get the shop finished. She wants me to refinish the kitchen cabinets and I have convinced her I need shop space cleaned and set up for that. You know to strip the doors and drawer fronts, to cut out a 3/4" ply insert and make some cleats to replace the once wet now badly warped particle board base under the kitchen sink etc… And last but not least, once the shop is cleaned and configured per my design, the big upright deep freeze moves out of the kitchen and into the shop. (A pittance in room to pay to get the power run the way I wanted it, especially since one of our projects not too far down the road is a shed to move all of the lawn and garden care stuff into…).
> 
> I do have a couple of additions I need to make room for somehow, one is a small dorm room type fridge that I used to have under my desk at work. The other is I need to design make, and store a foldable gaming / poker table. It is infrequent that I do this, but I do enjoy a good cigar and scotch when playing poker with friends. I don't do this more than twice a year though… (For good reason!)...
> 
> I am thinking that at least when the construction and mechanic project debris is cleaned out, then I can get in and snap a photo or two to appease those that need to see pictures… It is encouraging to have progress though!


Well to be completely honest. IF I had a bigger back yard, and could get it approved by the HOA, my ideal shop would be a 24×48 building, 2 stories, with a dedicated man-cave / music room upstairs, and the shop downstairs with a dedicated finishing room, and dedicated compressor / DC closet. Financial realities being what they are, my best hope for maximum space and security is the garage and boot out as much as possible. The freezer will be situated such that it is taking up otherwise dead-ish space anyway. I designed the miter saw, and magazine / book cabinets to accomodate for that…

The fridge is going in because I want to keep cold beverages close at hand when working. (Got a serious Arizona Tea addiction going here…)

Even when I have to play lawn mower Jenga, I feel absolutely blessed shop wise compared to so many folks that, well use a 10×12 shed, or one bay of a garage or similar. Yes my garage is oddly small for a 2 car garage. Some sadistic freak at some time said sure, 18×20 is a 2 car garage. Maybe 2 1980s Toyota Corollas, or even current Camry's if you don't care about being able to open the doors all the way to get in or out… But I digress again…

I had toyed with the idea in the past to put up a 12×16 gambrel roof shed with 8' sidewalls to dedicate to a shop, but floor space would be too tight. If I continue along the path I am on now, I will have 18×20 dedicated to the shop minus the space used by the freezer and water softener, I have designed around those items and should have no real problems with that.

I know LOML, the HOA, and the city would be less than thrilled with it, but I could in theory toss up a quick & dirty 8×8 shed on skids just to get the lawn and garden stuff out of my shop. Heck if I keep the roof peak height under 8', the city will change the classification from "building" to "box", meaning no permit, no permission required. It would be out of view of the HOA unless then trespass onto my property, so that leaves LOML… The tough one…


----------



## clieb91

dbhost said:


> *More shop cleanup. Making progress. I forgot I had some of this stuff!*
> 
> It wasn't a lot of time I could get in the shop last night, but it was enough. I managed to get most (not all) of the mechanical project materials out of the way and stored where they belong. I had new tools that were purchased for the project, specifically a Harbor Freight ball joint press, and a set of 4×4 adapter cups that needed to be stowed that I finally managed to find a place for. And somehow I still have a friend's Harbor Freight R134A manifold gauge, hoses, and can tap. I am going to need to use it on my Saturn, but I thought I gave it back to him a year ago… So I called my friend up, and he is, well not that worried about it… Oh well…
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> Tonight is going to be a bit messier. It would appear that an old tube of wheel bearing grease got out of a box, and managed to get stepped on. So tonight I need to get in there with a trash can, some rags, and some, well I am not sure. Brake Cleaner, or mineral spirits or what, but I need to clean that grease off my floor!
> 
> If the mudding and taping were already done, the area where the dust collector lives would be ready for it, it's stand, the separator, and the small air compressor to move back in. I really ought to get rid of that little 8 gallon HF compressor, but I would hate to see it go to waste. If there are any LJs members in the Houston / Galveston metro area that would be interested in picking this up on the cheap, drop me a PM and make me an offer. It works great, and I have added an extended drain pipe / bleeder valve to make it easier to drain…
> 
> Anyway, once I manage to get some room to work in that area, I can mark, cut down, and trim the holes in the next piece of sheetrock. My studs aren't ending up at exactly 8' so I am ending up having to do some weird trimming… How this house ever passed inspection is beyond me, but that is another discussion…
> 
> Once that panel is in place, the remaining panel only needs to be cut out for the electrical outlets.
> 
> Depending on the weather, and the specifications for the expanding foam, I suspect I will have sufficient time / weather to get the expanding foam insulation sprayed in between the garage doors so I can start buttoning up that section.
> 
> If you can't tell from my recent posts, I am starting to get very encouraged by the progress I have been making, within the last week in the shop, but in the last several months throughout the house. I am at the point house wise, that LOML is inspired to let me get the shop finished. She wants me to refinish the kitchen cabinets and I have convinced her I need shop space cleaned and set up for that. You know to strip the doors and drawer fronts, to cut out a 3/4" ply insert and make some cleats to replace the once wet now badly warped particle board base under the kitchen sink etc… And last but not least, once the shop is cleaned and configured per my design, the big upright deep freeze moves out of the kitchen and into the shop. (A pittance in room to pay to get the power run the way I wanted it, especially since one of our projects not too far down the road is a shed to move all of the lawn and garden care stuff into…).
> 
> I do have a couple of additions I need to make room for somehow, one is a small dorm room type fridge that I used to have under my desk at work. The other is I need to design make, and store a foldable gaming / poker table. It is infrequent that I do this, but I do enjoy a good cigar and scotch when playing poker with friends. I don't do this more than twice a year though… (For good reason!)...
> 
> I am thinking that at least when the construction and mechanic project debris is cleaned out, then I can get in and snap a photo or two to appease those that need to see pictures… It is encouraging to have progress though!


Sounds like things are coming along quite well. I hear ya about the size of 2 car garages, that is a major reason I am in the basement. 
Planning on taking some time in the next month to do a good bit of shopping cleaning and hopefully reorganizing myself. Look forward to seeing your pictures and some ideas.

CtL


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *More shop cleanup. Making progress. I forgot I had some of this stuff!*
> 
> It wasn't a lot of time I could get in the shop last night, but it was enough. I managed to get most (not all) of the mechanical project materials out of the way and stored where they belong. I had new tools that were purchased for the project, specifically a Harbor Freight ball joint press, and a set of 4×4 adapter cups that needed to be stowed that I finally managed to find a place for. And somehow I still have a friend's Harbor Freight R134A manifold gauge, hoses, and can tap. I am going to need to use it on my Saturn, but I thought I gave it back to him a year ago… So I called my friend up, and he is, well not that worried about it… Oh well…
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> Tonight is going to be a bit messier. It would appear that an old tube of wheel bearing grease got out of a box, and managed to get stepped on. So tonight I need to get in there with a trash can, some rags, and some, well I am not sure. Brake Cleaner, or mineral spirits or what, but I need to clean that grease off my floor!
> 
> If the mudding and taping were already done, the area where the dust collector lives would be ready for it, it's stand, the separator, and the small air compressor to move back in. I really ought to get rid of that little 8 gallon HF compressor, but I would hate to see it go to waste. If there are any LJs members in the Houston / Galveston metro area that would be interested in picking this up on the cheap, drop me a PM and make me an offer. It works great, and I have added an extended drain pipe / bleeder valve to make it easier to drain…
> 
> Anyway, once I manage to get some room to work in that area, I can mark, cut down, and trim the holes in the next piece of sheetrock. My studs aren't ending up at exactly 8' so I am ending up having to do some weird trimming… How this house ever passed inspection is beyond me, but that is another discussion…
> 
> Once that panel is in place, the remaining panel only needs to be cut out for the electrical outlets.
> 
> Depending on the weather, and the specifications for the expanding foam, I suspect I will have sufficient time / weather to get the expanding foam insulation sprayed in between the garage doors so I can start buttoning up that section.
> 
> If you can't tell from my recent posts, I am starting to get very encouraged by the progress I have been making, within the last week in the shop, but in the last several months throughout the house. I am at the point house wise, that LOML is inspired to let me get the shop finished. She wants me to refinish the kitchen cabinets and I have convinced her I need shop space cleaned and set up for that. You know to strip the doors and drawer fronts, to cut out a 3/4" ply insert and make some cleats to replace the once wet now badly warped particle board base under the kitchen sink etc… And last but not least, once the shop is cleaned and configured per my design, the big upright deep freeze moves out of the kitchen and into the shop. (A pittance in room to pay to get the power run the way I wanted it, especially since one of our projects not too far down the road is a shed to move all of the lawn and garden care stuff into…).
> 
> I do have a couple of additions I need to make room for somehow, one is a small dorm room type fridge that I used to have under my desk at work. The other is I need to design make, and store a foldable gaming / poker table. It is infrequent that I do this, but I do enjoy a good cigar and scotch when playing poker with friends. I don't do this more than twice a year though… (For good reason!)...
> 
> I am thinking that at least when the construction and mechanic project debris is cleaned out, then I can get in and snap a photo or two to appease those that need to see pictures… It is encouraging to have progress though!


My home shop is a good item, only sharing room with the furnaces and HW heater. I did get the freezer moved into an alcove on the garage 6 months or so ago. I have also installed 220V in that space for a bandsaw. Just haven't got there yet.

Here in La Conner I have to move the van out to work in the garage, but like I have said before, it is a generous size garage, and has little stored in it. We don't need a lawn mower, for instance. There is a small alcove like space that was designed to fit the HW heater and furnace, so they are out of the way.

I have a 3' x 16' alcove to store a fixed workbench, a shelving unit, and the Rigid TS. In front of the cars I have about 4' of space that currently holds my bandsaw and torsion box bench parts. I will make a miter saw table with storage underneath in the space in front of the cars. I have some peg board there, and will probably put some wall mounted cabinets on that wall eventually. The garage, not including the shop alcove and the furnace and HW alcove is 22×21 feet. Moving the van out gives me a 12×22 foot space to move my TS, BS, and torsion box bench into.

I am really looking forward to see what your shop looks like, and how it will affect your ability to do work. You were crippled by the lack of power, and other issues. Mike puts up with a small, but dedicated space, and I certainly have more elbow room than Mike even here in La Conner. So I am not complaining.

A garden shed will do wonders for your clutter. In Anchorage we have we have a large garden shed that holds all kinds of things, and frees up a lot of space in my shop and the garage.

Later….........


----------



## dbhost

*Cleaning heavily under way. Finding evidence of shop visitors that need to be removed...*

I have been an idiot and did not secure the shuttered vents for the AC, and it appears I am now paying the price. I appear to have small furry not so welcome guests in my shop. A quick trip to HD and I now have a couple of bait stations out there. Dog resistant so my shop dog won't cause himself problems. I mostly pray that the critters go back OUT the vents before they die. Ick…

I have sized up the next panel, and have it installed. I have one panel left to trim and install, then it is time for mud and tape, then the split wall…

The progress is good, although It looks like the first of the year is going to be missed. I will be very close though.

The fun (yeah right) part is coming with the mud and tape. Yuck!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Cleaning heavily under way. Finding evidence of shop visitors that need to be removed...*
> 
> I have been an idiot and did not secure the shuttered vents for the AC, and it appears I am now paying the price. I appear to have small furry not so welcome guests in my shop. A quick trip to HD and I now have a couple of bait stations out there. Dog resistant so my shop dog won't cause himself problems. I mostly pray that the critters go back OUT the vents before they die. Ick…
> 
> I have sized up the next panel, and have it installed. I have one panel left to trim and install, then it is time for mud and tape, then the split wall…
> 
> The progress is good, although It looks like the first of the year is going to be missed. I will be very close though.
> 
> The fun (yeah right) part is coming with the mud and tape. Yuck!


D-Con said my PA, and you will never even see a dead mouse, or a live one any more. Indeed, the Warfarin laced pellets work well, and solved our mice in the garage problem. They come in with the cars and any cracks near the doors, usually in the winter. But haven't seen one for years now.

Just did shop org yesterday. I got an Incra Miter 1000HD for Christmas for each shop, (seems to me that you have one of these), and I will finish installing that today, and then finish the second pedestal for the torsion box bench. I revamped the pegboard tool arrangement to get all my measurement tools in one place, adding a few things from Veritas and Leigh Valley, also Christmas presents.

We had another great day yesterday. We ate at Olive Garden, shopped at the local food Co-op for dinner, and I made barbecued chicken breasts on the grill, baked yams in the toaster oven, and Sherie made cauliflower. There are great grocery stores around here, with the co-op in Mt. Vernon, and a big organic store in Anacortes. In the summer the road side stands and markets sell absolutely fresh produce. Sherie got a bunch of stuff for her quilting - fiber arts hobby at a fabulous sale at a store here in La Conner. Just a fun day for both of us. While we drove through the farmland to get to Mt Vernon, we gawked at the swans that are wintering here, and eating in the fields. Beautiful Trumpeters right up close to the road in places. Soon the snow geese will be here also.


----------



## dbhost

*The drywall is up!*

Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…

But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!

Yeah I hate doing this part…



















Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…

I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…

I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…

I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…

I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…

Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.

I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


OK, you caught me at a bad moment….......meaning, I will comment tomorrow morning. So glad to see you got it up though, now it is just puzzin around with the tape and mud. And speaking of dust collection, gotta get better for here in La Conner….........

Listening to Elton John, probably not your favorite…....yes/no???

The real problem is that we are listening to Mad Man Across the Water, mixed in with the Diving Board….......over 40 years difference. Just stuff on Sherie's iPhone….............

.........in the morning…......

Jim


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


Uh. Not a big Sir Elton fan… don't hate it, just never got into it…

Got the corner by the door mudded…

Most of the screws are mudded too. Good stuff so far!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


I should mention HOW I got the corner mudded. I have had this idea for quite some time. I am not certain if I am doing this right but I am going to try anyway. You see I have never done drywall before other than patching and such. My intent here is to fill any gaps / irregularities between the panels and at the corners FIRST, sand it smoothe, and THEN apply tape / more mud. Well in order to clear the new 5/8" fire code drywall, which is NOT what my builder put in, again how this house passed inspection I will never know, but I had to cut out some material, from the adjoining walls, not a huge amount, but that left an uneven edge, and once the drywall was up and settled, the corners needed to be filled in…

Now just how to do that without driving myself insane?

Caulk tube / gun!

Sadly, it seems nobody sells drywall mud / spackling in caulk tubes. So more DIY was in order…

Step #1. Grab a caulk tube that is almost done for.
Step #2. Remove all the excess caulk, Just pump it into a trash bag and let it cure.
Step #3. Using compressed air / blow gun, carefully insert blow gun into tip of tube, and while making sure the bottom of the tube is where you don't mind getting messy like a utility sink, blow the plunger part out of the tube.
Step #4. Thoroughly wash your caulk tube, plunger, and if necessary your caulk gun.
Step #5. Cut caulk tube tip bigger to allow for the thicker wall board compound, and fill tube from bottom, Insert plunger and install in gun.
Step #6. Jam wall board compound into the crevices and pump away.
Step #7. With putty knife smooth the compound, recovering excess.

Repeat filling / cleaning out as necessary… I have a LOT more to do over the weekend, but I am making good progress on this wall for sure!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


It has been so long since I did anything other than a patch, I don't even know enough to comment. However, when you are dealing with irregular spaced studs, the only thing I can even think of is to add studs at appropriate positions. I suspect the pros would remove more of the old wall board, and then add studs, etc. But that implies that the whole house isn't goofy, and that the budget is more substantial. As long as there is decent backing for the wallboard, whatever works and looks good in the end is all that is required.

Your caulking gun trick is interesting, and again, whatever works is the criteria. This project probably comes under the heading of "repairs to wallboard", and there are a zillion products out there to make the job easy and cheap. Basically, wallboard is not a structural item, nor is it a hazard issue, unless you bought some of the cheap stuff that China sold to Lowes a number of years ago.

My biggest beef in houses is the lack of sound suppression. The difference in sound suppression between an outside wall and a standard inside wall is amazing. We have a master bedroom at home that was built out over the garage (actually my shop), and you go up there and close the door and you don't hear anything….....well perhaps I exaggerate, but it is really quiet. Its walls adjoining the rest of the house are all old exterior walls. The only issue, is that shop noise does go up, so I can't be working in the shop while Sherie is asleep. I have the identical situation here in La Conner, master bedroom over the garage/shop. Didn't you say you added insulation for sound suppression? I think that is correct, and that is a good move.

I got the basics of my second pedestal done yesterday. the pedestals need to have their levelers put on them today, and then the torsion box bench will be totally functional. I think I will do a little work to the tops of the pedestals, because they can be used as work surfaces. Otherwise, they shall remain unpainted until they can dry outside, and that may be possible our next trip to here, in early April. Unless someone knows of a water based product that has the resilience of Watco, I will finish the bench parts like I do all shop construction. I am going to do my best to post the bench this week. It is different enough that others might get some ideas from it. Hopefully, I will beef up the stationary bench to take a woodworking vise this trip as well.

Later…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


I added insulation for HVAC purposes. It gets unbearably hot in the shop in the summer without it. The common wall was previously insulated. Noise is there, but somewhat minimal…

My father in law will be staying with us for a few days so this project might have to wait. But then again, he might want to come out to the shop and help out! That would be kind of cool..

I was really hoping to close up the gap at the ceiling and the common wall (the calk gun trick about 3 more full tubes…) and smoothe it out. I also realized one of my upper panels isn't screwed in fully, I need to finish running the screws in…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


I do recall you moaning about the heat in the summer in the shop. My problem is never heat either in La Conner or Anchorage. Going out to a restaurant this evening, the one just a block away. We made reservations over a month ago, and still the earliest we could get was 2030 hrs. They also called us yesterday to make sure we would be there. It is a very popular place on New Years, I guess. Should be fun.

Well Sherie just got up, and is traveling to the nearest Starbucks, about 15 minutes away. Nothing stops her from getting her morning mocha…....actually, let's face it, it is just chocolate milk with a little coffee flavor. She will drive for 30 minutes one way just to get to a Starbucks. I do not participate in those journeys, I happily make some sludge at home. Here in La Conner I use a French press, and make a very strong cup of coffee, nearly as strong as espresso. At home I have a computerized thing, and I actually do make espresso there.

Now that Sherie is up, I can get out in the shop and finish up the torsion box bench. I have been warming it up for a bit with the electric heater…......

It would be nice if your FIL helps out, would speed up the process I would think, if he knows what he is doing…...


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


Actually, his help would likely slow me down. He is 82 and has some mobility issues. My thought process is more one of quality family time and including him on a project… There would be no rushing anything like we do with the brothers in law…

I have some work coming up very soon the BIL that runs an auto body / mechanics shop has offered some help with.

On the truck, prior to taking it to his shop, probably this weekend, I am going to install a set of coil spring pre load spacers to compensate for the weight of the winch, plus I am changing the restrictive stock intake tube off, and installing an aftermarket free flow cold air tube. 
Reset custom tune on the truck for the new air tube so it doesn't run lean.

At the shop (I need access to the lift, transmission jack etc…
Pull transmission and transfer case as a unit.
Inspect inside bell housing. Drain torque converter completely. 
Replace whatever seals have decided to fail. Potentially replace the torque converter itself. This seal failed for a reason, most likely the converter became unbalanced and trashed it… 
Reassemble transmission / transfer case onto truck, make all connections. 
Drop transmission pan, replace filter, thoroughly clean pan, and install drain plug kit. Have the female thread part fully tig welded to the pan. 
Fully reassemble with new filter, and pan gasket. Torque to specifications. Fill transmission per Ford procedure and verify.
Service Transfer case (change fluid). Verify
Fluid exchange on brake system per Ford procedure. Verify.
Fluid exchange on power steering per Ford procedure. Verify.
Fluid exchange on both differentials per Ford procedure. Verify.
Change fuel filter per Ford procedure. Verify.
Change serpentine belt and idler pulley. Verify.
Change upper and lower radiator hoses, change heater hoses.
Power flush & fill cooling system. Verify.
Road test truck. Return to clean pad, and verify no leaks.

The good thing is this will likely end up taking multiple trips. I am really mostly needing to get the transmission / transfer case and fuel filter service done. (Fuel filter is a mere 5 minutes more once the truck is on the lift…). The differentials, belts, hoses, diffs, brakes etc… should be left for another day…

I am trying to get the full 100K service done even though I am technically a few K short of that mark… I figure with proper maintenance, I shouldn't need to replace this truck until it hits at least 200K, which at the rate I am going considering most of the mileage that is on there went on in 6 months of a nasty commute, well I might have to replace the truck after I am dead… Although I have a suspicion that parts availability might be somewhat limited long before then…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


I just made a trip to the grocery store in our 2nd car here in La Conner, a 2002 Subaru Outback. Bought it from a friend when she moved out of Alaska 2 years ago. She is now down in Monterrey, where she had lived before. The car looks like it is 2 years old, and the odometer says about 37,000 miles. We bought it very cheap and have had a few unsolicited offers to buy it from us. But, it is excellent cheap transportation, and gets used very little. We mostly use the Sienna. But I do like driving the Outback, it is nimble and simple to operate.

I suspect you will get a lot of years out of that truck, especially if you are no longer using it to commute. I drive a 2002 Odyssey at home, and it only has about 40,000 miles. I will drive it until it becomes unreliable. I am just not into switching out cars frequently any more.

Well back to the shop. Got to get some stuff done before we go off to celebrate New Years….......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


LOL… Actually if it was up to me, I would replace our 2001 Saturn SL2 with a 2 or 3 year old Outback… However LOML REALLY wants a luxury car. She is thinking a Benz… Part of the reason we are pinching the pennies and getting debt dumped off is I told her we would buy her a Benz once the big debt was gone…

For the cost of say a new loaded Fusion, I can get a Mercedes Benz C320, okay maybe a couple grand more, but not so much to be a problem… Given decent care, that car too should outlast a series of cheap cars…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


Well first coat of mud is done. Got to let it set up then I can sand it and start taping. Love making progress.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


OK, tell me you don't love it when you are just putting lipstick on the pig and it all turns out looking gorgeous. The bad part is hanging the board, the fun part is putting on the cosmetics. There's art involved. You can be OCD and nobody is going to say anything about perfect drywall, because, well, it's perfect. Smooth, invisible seams, perfect corners. You should have on your artists hat and smock, be smoking weed, and sipping absinthe.

Having some trouble visualizing you in that gig….........but you get the point. It's all down hill now…..........

Have a good evening…...think I will turn in early….................

.........did you know the hardest thing about setting up a woodworking shop, is that you have to have a woodworking shop to set up a woodworking shop. Today I was about to put together my new (and very cheap) drill press, and I needed to have some bolts to fix it to a board. In Anchorage, I would only have to decide which length, size, type, etc. and reach into the appropriate spot and get it. Here I had to go to town and buy them. But, deciding to get a leg up, I bought a complete selection of bolts and nuts of all sorts in the most common range for this type of thing, 1/4" and 5/16", the larger being appropriate for the task. At home, I would probably have used 3/8", but here I know that I will not be needing that size of bolt, or larger, very often. And of course, at home, I have been collecting nuts, bolts, screws, etc. for about 40 years. And of course, I am putting the drill press together so that I can make the holes for the levelers for the torsion box bench pedestals. Gotta put together the shop so that I can build the shop!!!

I mentioned to my wife, that you don't need a quilting room with all the machines, fabric, and other stuff to set up a quilting room. You just go out and buy the stuff.

We guys really have to suffer with our hobbies, and the gals ought to understand that and sympathize. Of course I am being a little male chauvinistic here, because some guys make quilts, and we have a lot of gal woodworkers.

.......but you get the point…....yawnnnnnnnn….............zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


Interesting thinking about art in a wood shop… I was an art major in college, and ended up in a field that has not allowed me much in the way of creativity, this is part of why I got into woodworking in the first place…

I checked on it this morning, the mud was still somewhat wet. Go figure, arctic front blew through last night and our temps dropped. Nothing like you would deal with, but enough to slow down drying time on drywall compound…

I am somewhat doubtful I will have much of a chance to get out to the shop to continue before Saturday, and even then the truck needs help… Ugh.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


Well, when it comes to drywall lipstick, you can have any color you want, as long as it is white. I don't think the choices for transmission fluid and seals colors is much better. May the gods smile upon your transmission, and may they blow hot air in your shop. I suspect the smock, brush, and easel are going to have to wait a bit.

My shop is calling me….......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *The drywall is up!*
> 
> Sorry the photos aren't the best. The lends was dirty due to drywall dust… I have since cleaned it…
> 
> But here it is in all its unfinished glory, hung drywall!
> 
> Yeah I hate doing this part…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some framing oddities in my shop, some of the joints ended up being over air. and I had to trim some plywood pieces to allow the panels to pull together correctly. The gaps around the sub panel have been patched and all is now in the first coat of mud to close up the gaps. Next comes sand it back smoothe, and tape it, second coat of mud then smoothe it, paint it and mount up my goodies…
> 
> I am not sure I can weasel time in the shop tonight, but if so, I am going to try to spend some more time mudding and sanding. Yeah I REALLY want this done…
> 
> I am not sure if the Black Cat bait station to delete the shop visitors is a failure, or if the shop visitors have been scared off due to the amount of activity in the environment, but nothing is taking the bait yet…
> 
> I did find where they were getting in though, at the bottom of the doors, there is a gap where the framing isn't super square, that they gnawed through the door gasket and have given themselves a way to get in… I will fix / replace the gasket, but I am not sure how permanent of a fix that is… We will see…
> 
> I still need to clean the junk off the workbench, and table saw, put things back where they belong. Once the walls are done, the cabinets go up, wall stacker gets moved, DC plumbing gets re-run, and then equipment gets moved…
> 
> Due to the high space consumption of the items, I am particularly anxious to get the dust collector, dust collector stand, 55 gallon Thien separator, and 8 gallon air compressor stowed back in the corner.
> 
> I am giving SERIOUS consideration to getting rid of the 55 gallon separator, and going back to a Thien separator in the inlet ring of my dust collector. I need to be more space efficient, and that 55 gallon drum takes up WAY too much floor space…


Well, got most of the drywall sanding done last night. The gaps are closed well enough. I need to get into the hard to get to corners. I am going to make a simple sanding block to hold 1/8 sheet and knock it down with coarse grit (40) paper, then we wipe the walls down to get the dust off, and I start with taping, and more taping… Need to go to HD to get some tape, more mud, and a taping tray.


----------



## dbhost

*Building tools in the shop to build the shop...*

So I spent more quality time than I care for last night with a drywall sander, and I got most of the bumps knocked down, that is at least until I got to the corner by the overhead door track… The space between the track, and the abutting wall is simply too narrow to fit the drywall sander in…

Time to get creative…

I know!

Cut down a piece of 3/4" plywood scrap to 2.5" x 8". With the scroll saw (Because the band saw is still buried) cut out a quickie handle, drill, countersink, attach and voila, funky sanding block. Simply quarter a sheet of 40 grit the narrow way, and using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, glue one strip on and let it bond… Then get to town!

Okay so not the ideal sander, but it works. I have a little bit left to get to tonight / this weekend, and then it's on to taping / final mudding / sanding and finally, prime, paint, and reattach the face plates on the outlets.

This drywall job will NOT be coming out perfectly. I never expected it to. If I did, I would have hired someone else to have the ulcer instead of me! But it IS coming out more or less as I expect, I could get away with the little imperfections I see if I were texturing it. I have much worse in the living room after all!

LOML is starting to get funky / sick so tonight I am making Caldo De Pollo for her (Mexican Chicken soup with vegetables…) and I put her to bed and get to the shop, so I might just be able to get this done this weekend after all… I am debating if I want to roll the paint on, or spray it. Roller would give a thicker coat, but spraying would mean the job would be done in next to no time… Ugh, choices…

I found a design online for a short 4×8 foot 4 foot tall storage locker. Not a bad idea, I checked with the city, they don't consider it a building if it..

#1. Doesn't have a foundation.
#2. Has a top height of less than 7'. 
#3. Has a floor surface of less than 100 sq/ft.

My HOA might fuss, but considering my plan they won't have much room to complain. My idea is to build it with a 6' interior height, and build it on TOP of my existing deck. We do not use the deck, and there are no regulations regarding deck boxes.

I have been toying with it in sketchup, and I believe I can get all of my lawn and garden equipment / materials / non shop stuff into that space including my New Braunfels Bandera smoker. (Need some work done to that, going to talk to my BIL about getting some metal parts made up for it)... Things are looking good!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Building tools in the shop to build the shop...*
> 
> So I spent more quality time than I care for last night with a drywall sander, and I got most of the bumps knocked down, that is at least until I got to the corner by the overhead door track… The space between the track, and the abutting wall is simply too narrow to fit the drywall sander in…
> 
> Time to get creative…
> 
> I know!
> 
> Cut down a piece of 3/4" plywood scrap to 2.5" x 8". With the scroll saw (Because the band saw is still buried) cut out a quickie handle, drill, countersink, attach and voila, funky sanding block. Simply quarter a sheet of 40 grit the narrow way, and using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, glue one strip on and let it bond… Then get to town!
> 
> Okay so not the ideal sander, but it works. I have a little bit left to get to tonight / this weekend, and then it's on to taping / final mudding / sanding and finally, prime, paint, and reattach the face plates on the outlets.
> 
> This drywall job will NOT be coming out perfectly. I never expected it to. If I did, I would have hired someone else to have the ulcer instead of me! But it IS coming out more or less as I expect, I could get away with the little imperfections I see if I were texturing it. I have much worse in the living room after all!
> 
> LOML is starting to get funky / sick so tonight I am making Caldo De Pollo for her (Mexican Chicken soup with vegetables…) and I put her to bed and get to the shop, so I might just be able to get this done this weekend after all… I am debating if I want to roll the paint on, or spray it. Roller would give a thicker coat, but spraying would mean the job would be done in next to no time… Ugh, choices…
> 
> I found a design online for a short 4×8 foot 4 foot tall storage locker. Not a bad idea, I checked with the city, they don't consider it a building if it..
> 
> #1. Doesn't have a foundation.
> #2. Has a top height of less than 7'.
> #3. Has a floor surface of less than 100 sq/ft.
> 
> My HOA might fuss, but considering my plan they won't have much room to complain. My idea is to build it with a 6' interior height, and build it on TOP of my existing deck. We do not use the deck, and there are no regulations regarding deck boxes.
> 
> I have been toying with it in sketchup, and I believe I can get all of my lawn and garden equipment / materials / non shop stuff into that space including my New Braunfels Bandera smoker. (Need some work done to that, going to talk to my BIL about getting some metal parts made up for it)... Things are looking good!


Sorry for the late response, but I have been busy with organizing and wanted to get it done.

OK, the sanding block sounds like me. I went to Lowe's with a huge laundry list of bolts, screws, sanding blocks, etc. I spent two hours putting it together so that I would have some selection of hardware. Got another trash can for the shop (meaning here in La Conner), and when I left the store everything was in the trash can. That was two days ago. Today I got most of the stuff put in parts cabinets, plastic stuff from Lowe's, and then I put French cleat on the wall for them above some pegboard so that I can take them down to work on them on the bench if I want to. Done with that, except for installing the reverse cleat on the parts cabinets. I labeled everything with a Brother label maker, wireless no less, using my computer, and that was slick.

But, looking for sanding blocks (I bought two, I keep one loaded coarse, one fine), I noticed these 3M sanding sponges or what ever they call them. Every tried one of those?? I didn't buy any, but they would have fit in that narrow space. I would have done would you did.

Yup, I get it, a six foot high outdoor closet on an unused deck, painted to match….....it will definitely look suspiciously like an outhouse for short people. Put a moon cutout on the door, might as well make use of the obvious….......(-:

Actually, it sounds like an excellent solution. Just don't paint it the same color as the local purveyor of porta potties uses…......(-:

Gad zooks, going home day after tomorrow. Next trip down here will be for two weeks, and that will not be enough. It was cold out today, hovering around 38 degrees all day, and Sherie was out trying to lay down blood meal and landscaping fabric to keep the cats from marking the territory (feral cats abound here). First volley in controlling the cats and dogs when we are not here.

Well, I set up some power tools, including the Rigid spindle-belt sander, and a cheap Shop Fox drill press. Not like my small Delta at home, which is bigger and better, but I used it, and it does the job. I didn't want anything too heavy since it will be mobile, and I couldn't find the in between size that the Delta I have is. I still haven't put the levelers on the torsion box bench pedestals, I am half way there. Never enough time. However, the pedestals are very generous size, intentionally, and work as very stable work surfaces all on their own. I will post them, I wanted to do it this trip, but I suspect it will be next.

Will try the new Italian restaurant in town. The location is perfect, but no one has ever made a go of it for long there. The only way to do it is to be something really special or unique. We will see.

Well off to dinner….......remember the moon cutout….........(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Building tools in the shop to build the shop...*
> 
> So I spent more quality time than I care for last night with a drywall sander, and I got most of the bumps knocked down, that is at least until I got to the corner by the overhead door track… The space between the track, and the abutting wall is simply too narrow to fit the drywall sander in…
> 
> Time to get creative…
> 
> I know!
> 
> Cut down a piece of 3/4" plywood scrap to 2.5" x 8". With the scroll saw (Because the band saw is still buried) cut out a quickie handle, drill, countersink, attach and voila, funky sanding block. Simply quarter a sheet of 40 grit the narrow way, and using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, glue one strip on and let it bond… Then get to town!
> 
> Okay so not the ideal sander, but it works. I have a little bit left to get to tonight / this weekend, and then it's on to taping / final mudding / sanding and finally, prime, paint, and reattach the face plates on the outlets.
> 
> This drywall job will NOT be coming out perfectly. I never expected it to. If I did, I would have hired someone else to have the ulcer instead of me! But it IS coming out more or less as I expect, I could get away with the little imperfections I see if I were texturing it. I have much worse in the living room after all!
> 
> LOML is starting to get funky / sick so tonight I am making Caldo De Pollo for her (Mexican Chicken soup with vegetables…) and I put her to bed and get to the shop, so I might just be able to get this done this weekend after all… I am debating if I want to roll the paint on, or spray it. Roller would give a thicker coat, but spraying would mean the job would be done in next to no time… Ugh, choices…
> 
> I found a design online for a short 4×8 foot 4 foot tall storage locker. Not a bad idea, I checked with the city, they don't consider it a building if it..
> 
> #1. Doesn't have a foundation.
> #2. Has a top height of less than 7'.
> #3. Has a floor surface of less than 100 sq/ft.
> 
> My HOA might fuss, but considering my plan they won't have much room to complain. My idea is to build it with a 6' interior height, and build it on TOP of my existing deck. We do not use the deck, and there are no regulations regarding deck boxes.
> 
> I have been toying with it in sketchup, and I believe I can get all of my lawn and garden equipment / materials / non shop stuff into that space including my New Braunfels Bandera smoker. (Need some work done to that, going to talk to my BIL about getting some metal parts made up for it)... Things are looking good!


Well, the wall is mostly in tape right now. The seam between the wall and ceiling has yet to be done, and that stubborn corner. I flaked out on making my sander yet… I got done with the other taping and mostly said, eh… I am done for the day…

The Grizzly G0572 is being worked well beyond it's designed capacity I am sure. I have the PSI filters in it, and by the time all the sanding and cleanup is done, I am sure the filters will need to be cleaned.

I am genuinely not enjoying that door wall though. What a pitiful setup. It's also one of the reasons I hate my garage. Most garages I have seen outside of my neighborhood have at least 3' on each side of the doors. Mine is lucky to have 6"... What a frustration for sure!

I do think my 3M respirator needs me to get up off my butt and swap the cartridges for fresh ones… I am not sure how often you are supposed to change them, but they are getting noticeably darker…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Building tools in the shop to build the shop...*
> 
> So I spent more quality time than I care for last night with a drywall sander, and I got most of the bumps knocked down, that is at least until I got to the corner by the overhead door track… The space between the track, and the abutting wall is simply too narrow to fit the drywall sander in…
> 
> Time to get creative…
> 
> I know!
> 
> Cut down a piece of 3/4" plywood scrap to 2.5" x 8". With the scroll saw (Because the band saw is still buried) cut out a quickie handle, drill, countersink, attach and voila, funky sanding block. Simply quarter a sheet of 40 grit the narrow way, and using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, glue one strip on and let it bond… Then get to town!
> 
> Okay so not the ideal sander, but it works. I have a little bit left to get to tonight / this weekend, and then it's on to taping / final mudding / sanding and finally, prime, paint, and reattach the face plates on the outlets.
> 
> This drywall job will NOT be coming out perfectly. I never expected it to. If I did, I would have hired someone else to have the ulcer instead of me! But it IS coming out more or less as I expect, I could get away with the little imperfections I see if I were texturing it. I have much worse in the living room after all!
> 
> LOML is starting to get funky / sick so tonight I am making Caldo De Pollo for her (Mexican Chicken soup with vegetables…) and I put her to bed and get to the shop, so I might just be able to get this done this weekend after all… I am debating if I want to roll the paint on, or spray it. Roller would give a thicker coat, but spraying would mean the job would be done in next to no time… Ugh, choices…
> 
> I found a design online for a short 4×8 foot 4 foot tall storage locker. Not a bad idea, I checked with the city, they don't consider it a building if it..
> 
> #1. Doesn't have a foundation.
> #2. Has a top height of less than 7'.
> #3. Has a floor surface of less than 100 sq/ft.
> 
> My HOA might fuss, but considering my plan they won't have much room to complain. My idea is to build it with a 6' interior height, and build it on TOP of my existing deck. We do not use the deck, and there are no regulations regarding deck boxes.
> 
> I have been toying with it in sketchup, and I believe I can get all of my lawn and garden equipment / materials / non shop stuff into that space including my New Braunfels Bandera smoker. (Need some work done to that, going to talk to my BIL about getting some metal parts made up for it)... Things are looking good!


I have the respirator at home as well, but don't have to use it very often. Mostly because I don't generate that kind of dust very often. Good idea to use it, though, all that black stuff would be in your lungs.

Well, tomorrow is clean up day, but then we go out to the fancy restaurant tomorrow night. Our self indulgent reward. I hope to get up the parts cabinets tomorrow, and if I am really energetic, maybe finally get the levelers on the torsion bench. But I bet I don't. It always takes 3 times as long as I think it will.

Hope your wife feels better….....

Later….....


----------



## dbhost

*Almost ready for paint.*

I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…










The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.










The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.










The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.

Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…

The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…

I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


OK, I don't have that kind of problem at either house, they are both pretty roomy. But I have been there before, even worse, when my shop was an 8×6 shed with my RAS in it, and yard and garden tools of all sorts hung on the walls.

Today is transition day, tomorrow we are on a plane. So we cleaned up this place, OCD, both of us, and the place shines. Because that's what we want to see when we come back….....in April for two weeks. And I got my parts cabinets up on the wall on their French cleats. Sweet. But I got a huge amount to do when I get back, and I love it…...(-:

So, as always, we go to the fancy restaurant for our treat for the cleaning, and had a great dinner.

But come on, you are in the pink, it just needs a coat of paint. You got electric, and insulation and the whole nine yards. A real shop. You are going to have a lot of fun when it is done. The goal is now visible, you can see it, you don't have to imagine it any more…......just needs reorg.

Well, off in the morning, back to work the following day, so if you don't hear from me, it's because I'm busy….........

Later….....


----------



## oldnovice

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


*I have shop envy* ... I have dry wall but not the amount you have as mine is in the garage.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


oldnovice, my shop is a garage. Undersized by most standards. My wife decided to let me build a shop in there as her car is a Saturn (plastic) and my truck won't fit… We live in Houston metro so it's not like we get cold / snow very often… I kept bringing up the idea of a stand alone shed / shop but she keeps shooting it down. She wants the shop attached to the house, I figure for whatever proximity / security that would provide I am guessing…

Long story short about it, the shop / garage had some drywall water damage due to Hurricane Ike back in late 2008. I used the funds along with our own $$ to upgrade our main panel as it was also damaged in the storm, run a 60 amp sub panel, and 6 circuits for my shop needs. I have a dedicated circuit for HVAC, one for Dust Collector / Air Compressor, and 4 for tool outlets. Putting the drywall back up was completely up to me. I took the occasion to insulate as well…

It was 26 deg F this morning (go figure in Coastal Texas no less!) and I had that little heater on overnight to prevent tank freeze, on the lowest setting I had available on that heater, and I had to fetch a screwdriver out of the shop when I got up (long story, but a bathroom door got locked…) and when I looked, it was 62 Deg F in the shop. Quite a workable temp in my terms, at least without a wind blowing on you that is!

In so many ways, I wish my shop was a stand alone shed, particularly so I wouldn't have to share space… But lot size, and HOA rules being what they are that isn't going to happen… So I will just keep working to set it up the way I want, and try to make things mobile enough that I can park at least one car in there if hard pressed… At least that is the goal…


----------



## DonB

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


I also have 1/2 a garage with a heater trying to combat the wind chill of 28 this am in Pensacola, FL. Put protective covers on the outdoor spickets (supposed to be 21 tonight) and removed the shed door (making a new one) - and froze in that short timeframe. I may have to let the garage warm until maybe March before its adequate again. I feel for all those up north with no electricity. Been there, done that.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


I couldn't find my freeze caps for my outdoor faucets, so I had to wrap them with some old towels. They keep the wind off of them, and should help keep them from freezing, I hope..

We are supposed to be below freezing 16 out of 24 hours tomorrow…

It will warm up again to the mid 70s by Thursday here, but yeah, I feel for the northerners with no electric. Nasty stuff…

Most of the time I am more worried about staying cool than staying warm…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


In the northern states, all the outdoor faucets are the type where the valve is actually inside the house. So as long as you take hoses and things off of them they won't freeze. The house came with two, and I added two more that accessed water lines in the garage/shop/storage area. Where is global warming when you need it?.......(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Yeah, I have seen frost resistant hose bibs when I worked at the hardware store in college… Not common here…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Anchorage is 33 right now, and was raining there yesterday. The rain is not good, because it turns the roads to sheets of ice after the inevitable refreeze. But we get rain usually every January and/or February. The effects of a maritime climate. Here in La Conner, it is 30 degrees, but clear, and it should get up into the mid 40's today.

We are about to jump in the rental car, go to the airport, and be back in Anchorage this evening.

Hans, my shop here is in the garage, but because it is an oversize two car garage, it holds a bunch of power tools I can just roll into position after removing one car. At home, my shop is the old two car garage, because the previous owner put on an addition and built more garage under it, in front of the old garage. They are open to each other. I think he was looking for the shop room as well.

Tally Ho…...........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Wait, so it is colder in Tropical League City, Texas than in Anchorage Alaska?! What's wrong with this picture?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Well, we are home here in Anchorage, and the outside temp is 28 degrees, so not so warm now. Lots of ice and snow around, as predicted. Yup, expect to have palm trees on the boulevard here in a few years, thanks to global warming….........(-:

OK, so every few years you get freezing temps…........no sobs from me…............(-:

Looking forward to a couple of weeks in April down in La Conner…......the tulips will be in bloom, and we will usually have snow on the ground still here in Anchorage. But, in Anchorage, you never know….....

Later…...


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


I'm peaking in every now and then Db on your Developments, I feel for you on your shop situation, I consider myself to be lucky to have that option on a stand alone though as small as it is it's large enough for my needs and the added metal 10×10 aside my shop serves as my finishing booth makes it much better,

If only I hadn't planted that red oak tree upon moving in unknowing I'd be building a shop later on and needing that extra yard space.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


You know, you could take that red oak down and mill it… Gives you space, and material to work with. Kind of a win / win thing there…


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Na I carried that thing from HD when it was a wee twig in the back of my truck and now 14 years later it stands a mature 40×40 I could never cut it down, if any tree is to come down in the backyard it will be a seasoned very mature 20" wide straight lined Mesquite only it's not in the way, it's just off of the fence.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Straight lined mesquite? I'd love to see that. Usually those things are more crooked than a politician…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


For those following. As you may know, I have been using fiber tape as I have never really been all that impressed with the strength of paper tape, and I have about 1/2 of the ceiling seam done. Tonight I will finish the other half, and then mud, smooth, and let dry… I am on my last sanding screen, and it is starting to fall apart. I need to grab some more from HD tonight on the way home.

So I guess at this point, it is shopping list time for me…

#1. Pack of drywall sanding screens. Prefer Norton. The 3M ones fall apart and clog up a LOT faster…
#2. Cheap, bright white semi gloss paint. And I mean cheap. Like Speedwall or Glidden type cost. I am not having to cover up any nasty stains, or dark colors under the paint. I just need something to slap up on the walls… Semi gloss, and bright white, probably 2 gallons…

Due to electrical boxes being mounted flush with studs, I need to trim and install proper spacer rings as well. Already done on one of the outlets, only 5 more to go!

I got absolutely nothing done with it last night, which is fine I guess. I needed a night off of that anyway… Tonight should be an easy one, IF it warms up somewhat… 60 deg F in the shop this morning with my little heater running overnight to keep the softener tank and lines from freezing… My electric bill is going to be nasty this month…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Supposed to be 35 degrees here today, then down into the twenties thereafter. I bet it doesn't get that warm today, it is only 23 degrees now.

Have a good week, I don't think this week will be too busy, but might involve a couple of deliveries….........

Later….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Glad to see you made it back to Anchorage with no reported trouble! Yeah, it is going to heat up here again this week. By Friday they are calling for mid 70s… Crazy weather week, but hey, by this weekend it should be warm enough to do the spray foam insulation in the between doors wall and have it cure up before I'm dead…

I am also planning on doing to coil spring boosters, and cold air intake tube on the truck this weekend, clean it out really well, and get it ready to go to the transmission shop… That is going to hurt…


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


If I remember I'll get you a picture of it tomorrow and post it here


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Almost ready for paint.*
> 
> I have the wall to ceiling joint to finish taping / mudding, and then sand it all down, prime, and paint… It is a good feeling to being this close to a "cure" for the disaster of a shop I am suffering through…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls in tape and mud. Yes I know you shouldn't have the joint for upper and lower panels at the same spot, it just worked out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oil filled electric radiator sitting on low, with the temp control set at about 1/4. It is presently in the upper 30s outside, and the upper 60s in the shop… No chance of the water purifier / softener freezing up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The major mess I have to straighten out once the wall is in paint.
> 
> Most of this mess is just stuff that lost its home when I knocked the original wall down. However some of it is stuff that needs to go into the attic, and still some stuff that just needs to go away…
> 
> The pile isn't nearly as bad as it looks. The remaining piece of uninstalled drywall (waiting for the between the doors segment) is hiding the table saw and bench. THe pile of stuff is on top of those…
> 
> I will be buying the semigloss white interior paint this week. Probably grab about 4 or 5 gallons so that I have enough matching paint to complete the entire garage / shop. I am planning on tracing the stud locations onto the ceiling so that I can paint the wall, then re-mark where the studs are. I don't mind the pencil marks. I can then move on to setting my stuff back up, and moving along to the door wall, and then the opposing wall. Insulate, rock where appropriate, and then paint… So close, so very close…


Well I got the shim rings for the electrical boxes sized and installed. I had to patch around the 220 volt outlet… upper seam is taped. Tomorrow is mud time… I need to open a fresh box of mud…


----------



## dbhost

*Where I am trying to go with this whole thing... *










With the walls nearly completed, it is time to reassess where I am with the projects, what is working and what is failing…

Along with simply cleaning the shop up, I need to do the following to simply get it set back up to where it was prior to the power / insulation / new sheetrock once the walls are done of course…

#1. Install the French Cleats for, and reinstall the tool cabinets.
#2. Leg brace, and reinstall the dust collector stand, dust collector, Thien separator, and dust collection ducting / blast gates.
#3. Move all machines back to their proper locations. Specific machines not where they belong are lathe, band saw, and drill press. 
#4. Clean up and place all loose supplies back in their respective bins, totes, or whatnot.
#5. Stash the stuff that goes in the attic, well… back in the attic.
#6. Per agreement with LOML, move the upright freezer from the kitchen to the shop.

Now with that done, the shop cleaned and organized, it is time to get moving with finishing the upgrade / improvement projects. Those are…

#1. Finish the drawers, dust hood, and duct connections for the miter saw bench.
#2. Create base cabinet that will straddle the foot of my drill press, and latch to the mobile base. I want this to store my drilling accessories. It can be open front pidgeon holes for all I care… 
#3. Finalize design for base cabinet / ballast box for my lathe. This is to provide sealed storage for [email protected] 80lb concrete bags, and then provide covered drawer storage for my chucks, faceplates, spanners, knockout bar, turning tools etc… Everything lathe related. 
#4. Finalize the design for, and build the upright clamp storage rack. 
#5. Finalize the design for, and build the rolling lumber rack.
#6. Connect the two hand tool cabinets via a series of cleats / shelves to store misc materials / components.
#7. Finish my shop built drum sander project. I started but got sidetracked. I REALLY need to get this one done! The end pieces for the drive have somehow gone missing so I will likely end up re-making them. I have a stormfall tree in the bayou behind me I need to cut up that is white oak. I suspect I know where the material for this is coming from!
#8. Build a proper butcher block type bench top, 72" wide x 30" deep. Build the base 48×28, height combined for both to match the height of the BT3100 - 1/16". The bench is to use 4×4 legs, and 2×4 stretchers, but will be fully enclosed with drawers for hand tools.
#9. And this is going to be the big one, build a full on, proper table saw / router workstation around my current BT3100. Lots of drawers, and integrated dust collection.

The last two are the big ones and not likely to happen too soon, and may change. I am giving serious consideration to saving up some bucks to invest in a SawStop 3HP PCS. I have the power run for it, and it wouldn't be unworkable, but it is a big chunk of change for sure!

I have a huge agenda cut out for me, and honestly, this is going to be a multi year project, but I am getting there… I just wish I was getting there faster…


----------



## dbhost

*Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*

So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…

In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…

I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…

The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….

I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.

I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…

In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…

Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.

Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.

That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…

I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…

This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


My garage in Anchorage is a visual calamity. I may fix that one of these years. The garage in La Conner I am more careful with. I figure I might have to sell that place at some point, so I try to keep it more standard. But if I want to have access to an area, I make a separate piece of material…....wood or drywall plus wood or whatever, make the edges neat, and screw it over the access hole with screw guards for appearance and to prevent messing up the area. You can attach insulation to the back of the access panel if necessary. I have an access above my electrical panel in the storage area here, and the main panel in the garage in La Conner.

There is no question that we tend to spend more time with family members over the years, and less with other friends. Work schedules kinda determine that. I saw that happen steadily more and more over my 40's and 50's. Other people do it differently, but it is definitely a common phenomenon.

Well, off and running. I assume the belt sander is like my Rigid spindle/belt sander combo. That is a great tool, and I have one in La Conner and one here.


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


...maybe you should have invited them to a 'Sheet-Rockin' beer-bong contest, college remembrence bash. ;-)

Life is what happens between the milestones we encounter on the way to goals we have set on the road to gracefully aging.

Best Regards. - ...and I'm now Grandpa Len 

Work Safely and have Fun (along the way).


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


Yeah, the Ridgid belt sander is the Belt / Spindle sander model EB4424 that is here there and everywhere in hobby and even some pro wood shops…

Yeah the problem with the Beer Bong is that makes for stories kids shouldn't hear… I remember when our dad got so drunk on this old sailboat that he stepped off the bow to the dock, but we were still 50 yards out!

If I even THOUGHT of drinking like that, let alone did that, I would end up with a week long hangover…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


Well, fresh box of mud, got the upper seam mudded and smoothed. And the wall half sanded (obviously I can't sand the wet parts…

I am NOT going to fuss with knocking this down all the way smooth. Just knocking the big lumps down and getting it close. The stud location lines are carried over and I am READY to be DONE with this part. At this point I am wanting some shop elves to show up and finish this up so I can get on to the fun projects.

I have a quick description of what I am trying to do, with the exports of various angles of my sketchup plan for the shop on BT3Central I hope and pray I am not violating a forum rule here crossposting. Mods / Admins, please feel free to remove this if I am violating a forum rule. I honestly don't remember. Most allow you to cross link, some don't….


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


I think crossposts are OK, especially if you are referring to a file you can't place on LJ's. For pics, I think that either placing them here, or on a pic posting place like Photobucket probably gives more predictable longevity of the links. I frequently see dead links to pictures for other forums or sites. Placing them here or on one of the big stable posting sites seems to make for stability.

There are times when I would like a magic wand or a pile of money, but frankly, I don't do real remodeling anymore, that I do hire out to save my joints and time.

Busier day today, at least on paper, csection and an induction….......

Later…....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


Well, full disclosure, I have a stake in the site I linked to. I am of the system admin team that handles the site, and a moderator there… I try not to mention it on other forums because I do not feel it is appropriate to be advertising what I am involved in in places like this. However I also am lazy and don't want to have to retype, and re-link my pictures..

Not a huge fan of most online photo hosting services. Too many of them have gone bad over the last few years. I used to use Webshots, and I loved it while it was up and actually useful. They got sold out to a company that totally changed it up and killed our accounts, deleted our data the whole nine yards.

I have taken to saving and sharing photos from Google recently mostly due to the fact I am pretty sure Google is going to be around for quite some time, at least at this point…

Yeah, the problem is the pile of money we do have is called for far too fast. I have several jobs I have to contract out though. Foundation leveling (I am on expansive clay soil and have been through 2+ years of drought followed by a rather wet year, my house is moving on me…), as well as installation of the double pane hurricane rated windows (Required to be installed and certified for Texas Wind Storm insurance). I figure when they do the windows, I will have them do the Hardie Siding.

I have a large, but rapidly shrinking string of jobs to take care of on this remodel. While I am not moving any walls, I am doing a complete remodel of my 1984 house… If I hired it out, I would probably be cheaper / better off taking a bull dozer to the building and having a new one built!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Outlets are shimmed, had to do some patching due to too big of a gap for the outlet boxes.*
> 
> So I spent some quality time making things work in the shop last night. First things first. I got the outlet box rings adjusted for proper thickness with my Ridgid oscillating belt sander, and installed. It was in this process that I noticed that the gap under one of my 110, and one of my 220V outlets was greater than an outlet cover would accomodate. Time to cut some plywood backing strips, make the holes bigger, and cut some patches and install…
> 
> In the process of sizing the plastic rings, my belt started to peel on me. My lovely bride got me a couple of packs of belts at Harbor Freight for Christmas. (I gave her the size, she did HF on her own. Sort of. I asked for the HF 4×24 handheld belt sander and some spare belts for a project I am working on. She just got the belts at the same place the sander came from I guess… I ended up finishing the job with the HF belt. So far so good, But I must admit I am more of a fan of Norton abrasives so time will tell me if I am going to like these belts or not…
> 
> I got the patches nice and tight in the sheet rock, taped up, and mudded in. I suspect when I am done there will be a slight hump where this patch is. No big deal. Again this is a garage after all…
> 
> The fiber tape is installed all the way on the wall to ceiling joint, and sadly I ran out of time so it isn't in mud….
> 
> I did not have a chance to get to Home Depot and grab sanding screens or paint.
> 
> I did take some of the time I had to pick up and put away various cans and bottles of stuff that have been taken out of their places as the shop has been undergoing its transformation. I have so much more to do it's nasty…
> 
> In the process of my cleanup, I realized that I have been through 2 Christmasses, and nearly 2 birthdays since I had the shop torn apart for this project. I managed to find the table saw blades LOML gave me for Christmas last year. Diablo 24T, and Diablo 80T 10" blades, and a Diablo 24T circ saw blade. I am now at a point where I need to figure out what to do with my table saw blades! A good problem to have I guess…
> 
> Tonight's agenda is to swing by Home Depot on the way home to grab screens, outlet weather gaskets, and 2 gallons of their cheap semi gloss white paint, then get home, carry over my wall stud location onto the ceiling (so that I can easily transfer it over after painting) mud and smooth that upper seam. I can let it all dry until Saturday morning, at which point I can sand it the rest of the way smooth, let the air cleaner suck the sanding dust out of the air, and wipe down the wall, and honestly, by that point, I will likely be done for the night.
> 
> Tomorrow night is a study night, so no big thing there, Friday is my Birthday and depending on the weather, I will be heading to Galveston with my wife after work… Sure wish the truck was fixed. I would go to Bolivar at Crystal Beach and take her for a nice long walk on a gulf beach… Galveston is kind of crowded for that.
> 
> That brings us into Saturday, which is when the paint becomes important… Haven't decided if I am going to spray, or roll. Chances are roll since I don't want over spray all over my tools. I am going to need to figure out a way to seal off the access hole for the incoming water line valve. I have that hunk of wall uninsulated, and am not exactly thrilled about it. I figure I could just jam a piece of batting behind the pipes / valve and have to leave it at that. It will lose the insulating properties of the drywall, but that is the sacrifice I kind of need to make…
> 
> I am realizing something kind of sad as I am aging though. I am not sure if it is just my friends and myself that have gone this way or if this is common, but back when I was in college, and although most of my friends were married, nobody had kids, and we all sort of pitched in on each others home / auto / etc… projects to get them done faster. Now that, well LOML and I are the only ones childless (not intentionally, and we are looking at the adoption route now…) getting old friends to come by and help out, or even call up for help on one of their projects is a major undertaking… I could fault it to being we don't quite fit at this point not having kids, but I notice the guys with kids aren't hanging with the guys with kids sort of thing… We do still try to get together for a poker night, or just hang out, drink beer and play pool night, but that is every few months…
> 
> This is the part of being an adult our parents didn't tell us about…


In general, reliance on "cloud technologies" comes with issues of longevity and integrity. I guess we are stuck with some of it…...........

I am guilty of maintaining an older home, putting more money into it than justified from an economic or resale standpoint. But I have lived here for nearly 30 years, so at least I have been able to get benefit from the investment. We never did anything in this house for resale. And when I was younger, as I said before, my wife and I did a substantial amount of the work. But I am not able to do it any more.

The amount of maintenance a house needs is usually greatly underestimated. But then again, the value of having your own home is very difficult to evaluate, and may justify considerable expense. It's a different set of issues for every home owner.

Yesterday was busy, and I lost some sleep last night, but at least I have the weekend to myself….......


----------



## dbhost

*Getting ready for the weekend...*

I spent a few hours of quality time last night in the shop. I put Steven King's "The Stand" mini series on the streaming player and got after it… So while listening to Stu, Tommy, Larry, Fran, and yes even Harold… well, I got the shop somewhat cleaner at least, test fit a few things and realized there are adjustments that need to be made…

The sanding is done, except for the top seam. At least as done as it is going to get. Yes it waves a bit. I don't care. It will serve its function and that is all I care about. The upper seam was still too wet to sand last night.

I got about halfway through with transferring the stud locations to the ceiling. 2×4 scrap is actually useful!

I didn't bother with the valve opening at all yet. Probably won't for a while. It's there. I simply jammed an extra cut off piece of insulation in the hole…

I had to clean off the dust collector stand as I am trying to figure out if things still fit. It is there I ran into a problem. In the orientation I had been using, the dust collector stand is about 1" too wide. When the electrician ran the outlet for the DC and air compressor, he put them right next to the tool box, which moves it over, and into the space where the DC stand once lived… I can rotate the stand 90 deg, and still get everything in where it belongs, I will just have one more bend in the flex line from separator to DC I didn't want. Honestly this should inspire me to build that smaller trash can separator and side flip my impeller / motor…

In the process of cleaning. I managed to make some configuration / storage changes, minor as they are, that should really help keep things organized.

#1. ALL of the grinding disks, flap disks, and cut off wheels for my angle grinder, along with the wrench and handle for it, are now IN the ballistics nylon case for the grinder.
#2. I threw out the remaining B&D jig saw blades as they, well they were awful when they were new, and they have gotten very dull. I have transferred the Bosch blades into the B&D plastic blade carrier thing. It seems to be working pretty well so far. That, and the jig saw itself are now in a ballistics nylon tool bag of their own. 
#3. Similar treatment for my old Skil circular saw, its spanners, and associated blades and the sole mounted cutting guide / fence doo dad…
#4. The Diablo 24T, and 80T blades that LOML gave me for Christmas last year have been moved and put into the table saw / router accessories tote. Yeah I have them in a tote for now. I really need to improve this.
#5. I have gathered all of my drilling accessories except for the one forstner bit, and one quick change bit set that are in the house by the back door (was using them to install a tension cable on my back gate). Put all drilling accessories, and the drills themselves in their respective cases, or shop made trays.
#6. Blew down the drywall dust that was on the air compressor, mortising machine, miter saw, and in the shelves on the miter saw bench. Realized I need a new blow gun. The trigger / valve on mine is leaking like crazy, and it's too cheap to want to try to fix it…
#7. Swept the drywall dust, and small scrap debirs into a pile. I didn't actually sweep it up. (Trash can was full already). There is probably 6 or 7 gallons of material there… 
#8. Cleaned and wrapped up my air hoses. I REALLY Need a hose reel in here!
#9. Cleaned up, and moved my "Wonder Winder" extension cord reels and 50' heavy duty extension cords to the powered wall. They will be removed again and the mounts taken down for paint, but I wanted to have the holes for the screws in the wall prior to paint so it would be that much easier to install them once the paint was dry.

I need to stow my handheld power tools in the bottom of the miter saw cabinet where they belong. I have probably half of what is supposed to go there out… I also need to pick up one of those ballistics nylon tool bags for that 4×24 HF belt sander. That thing is a monstrosity with a terrible dust bag. However hook it to a shop vac and dust collection works pretty well.

I am not planning on getting anything shop wise done tonight, I could use a break anyway. Tonight is my B-day, so I am going to something odd for me at this age, and actually order a drink with dinner. Nothing too much, but I want a margarita with my fajitas tonight!

I think after a good night's sleep tonight, I should be ready to finish sanding and paint that wall tomorrow! Then I can get to moving things back around, and finally get to the between door wall. It is sort of blocked now which is why I haven't finished it yet….


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Getting ready for the weekend...*
> 
> I spent a few hours of quality time last night in the shop. I put Steven King's "The Stand" mini series on the streaming player and got after it… So while listening to Stu, Tommy, Larry, Fran, and yes even Harold… well, I got the shop somewhat cleaner at least, test fit a few things and realized there are adjustments that need to be made…
> 
> The sanding is done, except for the top seam. At least as done as it is going to get. Yes it waves a bit. I don't care. It will serve its function and that is all I care about. The upper seam was still too wet to sand last night.
> 
> I got about halfway through with transferring the stud locations to the ceiling. 2×4 scrap is actually useful!
> 
> I didn't bother with the valve opening at all yet. Probably won't for a while. It's there. I simply jammed an extra cut off piece of insulation in the hole…
> 
> I had to clean off the dust collector stand as I am trying to figure out if things still fit. It is there I ran into a problem. In the orientation I had been using, the dust collector stand is about 1" too wide. When the electrician ran the outlet for the DC and air compressor, he put them right next to the tool box, which moves it over, and into the space where the DC stand once lived… I can rotate the stand 90 deg, and still get everything in where it belongs, I will just have one more bend in the flex line from separator to DC I didn't want. Honestly this should inspire me to build that smaller trash can separator and side flip my impeller / motor…
> 
> In the process of cleaning. I managed to make some configuration / storage changes, minor as they are, that should really help keep things organized.
> 
> #1. ALL of the grinding disks, flap disks, and cut off wheels for my angle grinder, along with the wrench and handle for it, are now IN the ballistics nylon case for the grinder.
> #2. I threw out the remaining B&D jig saw blades as they, well they were awful when they were new, and they have gotten very dull. I have transferred the Bosch blades into the B&D plastic blade carrier thing. It seems to be working pretty well so far. That, and the jig saw itself are now in a ballistics nylon tool bag of their own.
> #3. Similar treatment for my old Skil circular saw, its spanners, and associated blades and the sole mounted cutting guide / fence doo dad…
> #4. The Diablo 24T, and 80T blades that LOML gave me for Christmas last year have been moved and put into the table saw / router accessories tote. Yeah I have them in a tote for now. I really need to improve this.
> #5. I have gathered all of my drilling accessories except for the one forstner bit, and one quick change bit set that are in the house by the back door (was using them to install a tension cable on my back gate). Put all drilling accessories, and the drills themselves in their respective cases, or shop made trays.
> #6. Blew down the drywall dust that was on the air compressor, mortising machine, miter saw, and in the shelves on the miter saw bench. Realized I need a new blow gun. The trigger / valve on mine is leaking like crazy, and it's too cheap to want to try to fix it…
> #7. Swept the drywall dust, and small scrap debirs into a pile. I didn't actually sweep it up. (Trash can was full already). There is probably 6 or 7 gallons of material there…
> #8. Cleaned and wrapped up my air hoses. I REALLY Need a hose reel in here!
> #9. Cleaned up, and moved my "Wonder Winder" extension cord reels and 50' heavy duty extension cords to the powered wall. They will be removed again and the mounts taken down for paint, but I wanted to have the holes for the screws in the wall prior to paint so it would be that much easier to install them once the paint was dry.
> 
> I need to stow my handheld power tools in the bottom of the miter saw cabinet where they belong. I have probably half of what is supposed to go there out… I also need to pick up one of those ballistics nylon tool bags for that 4×24 HF belt sander. That thing is a monstrosity with a terrible dust bag. However hook it to a shop vac and dust collection works pretty well.
> 
> I am not planning on getting anything shop wise done tonight, I could use a break anyway. Tonight is my B-day, so I am going to something odd for me at this age, and actually order a drink with dinner. Nothing too much, but I want a margarita with my fajitas tonight!
> 
> I think after a good night's sleep tonight, I should be ready to finish sanding and paint that wall tomorrow! Then I can get to moving things back around, and finally get to the between door wall. It is sort of blocked now which is why I haven't finished it yet….


HAPPY BIRTHDAY and happy fajitas.

"Have a cold one my friend …you've earned it." - a Stumpy Toast to you.

Best Regards. _ Grandpa Len.

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Getting ready for the weekend...*
> 
> I spent a few hours of quality time last night in the shop. I put Steven King's "The Stand" mini series on the streaming player and got after it… So while listening to Stu, Tommy, Larry, Fran, and yes even Harold… well, I got the shop somewhat cleaner at least, test fit a few things and realized there are adjustments that need to be made…
> 
> The sanding is done, except for the top seam. At least as done as it is going to get. Yes it waves a bit. I don't care. It will serve its function and that is all I care about. The upper seam was still too wet to sand last night.
> 
> I got about halfway through with transferring the stud locations to the ceiling. 2×4 scrap is actually useful!
> 
> I didn't bother with the valve opening at all yet. Probably won't for a while. It's there. I simply jammed an extra cut off piece of insulation in the hole…
> 
> I had to clean off the dust collector stand as I am trying to figure out if things still fit. It is there I ran into a problem. In the orientation I had been using, the dust collector stand is about 1" too wide. When the electrician ran the outlet for the DC and air compressor, he put them right next to the tool box, which moves it over, and into the space where the DC stand once lived… I can rotate the stand 90 deg, and still get everything in where it belongs, I will just have one more bend in the flex line from separator to DC I didn't want. Honestly this should inspire me to build that smaller trash can separator and side flip my impeller / motor…
> 
> In the process of cleaning. I managed to make some configuration / storage changes, minor as they are, that should really help keep things organized.
> 
> #1. ALL of the grinding disks, flap disks, and cut off wheels for my angle grinder, along with the wrench and handle for it, are now IN the ballistics nylon case for the grinder.
> #2. I threw out the remaining B&D jig saw blades as they, well they were awful when they were new, and they have gotten very dull. I have transferred the Bosch blades into the B&D plastic blade carrier thing. It seems to be working pretty well so far. That, and the jig saw itself are now in a ballistics nylon tool bag of their own.
> #3. Similar treatment for my old Skil circular saw, its spanners, and associated blades and the sole mounted cutting guide / fence doo dad…
> #4. The Diablo 24T, and 80T blades that LOML gave me for Christmas last year have been moved and put into the table saw / router accessories tote. Yeah I have them in a tote for now. I really need to improve this.
> #5. I have gathered all of my drilling accessories except for the one forstner bit, and one quick change bit set that are in the house by the back door (was using them to install a tension cable on my back gate). Put all drilling accessories, and the drills themselves in their respective cases, or shop made trays.
> #6. Blew down the drywall dust that was on the air compressor, mortising machine, miter saw, and in the shelves on the miter saw bench. Realized I need a new blow gun. The trigger / valve on mine is leaking like crazy, and it's too cheap to want to try to fix it…
> #7. Swept the drywall dust, and small scrap debirs into a pile. I didn't actually sweep it up. (Trash can was full already). There is probably 6 or 7 gallons of material there…
> #8. Cleaned and wrapped up my air hoses. I REALLY Need a hose reel in here!
> #9. Cleaned up, and moved my "Wonder Winder" extension cord reels and 50' heavy duty extension cords to the powered wall. They will be removed again and the mounts taken down for paint, but I wanted to have the holes for the screws in the wall prior to paint so it would be that much easier to install them once the paint was dry.
> 
> I need to stow my handheld power tools in the bottom of the miter saw cabinet where they belong. I have probably half of what is supposed to go there out… I also need to pick up one of those ballistics nylon tool bags for that 4×24 HF belt sander. That thing is a monstrosity with a terrible dust bag. However hook it to a shop vac and dust collection works pretty well.
> 
> I am not planning on getting anything shop wise done tonight, I could use a break anyway. Tonight is my B-day, so I am going to something odd for me at this age, and actually order a drink with dinner. Nothing too much, but I want a margarita with my fajitas tonight!
> 
> I think after a good night's sleep tonight, I should be ready to finish sanding and paint that wall tomorrow! Then I can get to moving things back around, and finally get to the between door wall. It is sort of blocked now which is why I haven't finished it yet….


Thanks… Yeah, looking forward to the evening for sure!


----------



## dbhost

*Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*

Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!

Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!

We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…










The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…










The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


I hate hanging sheet rock.

DB here is the picture of that tree I mentioned, I said straight lined but to me that's pretty straight for a Mesquite


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


We have an old chandelier that has a pile of glass crystals, and a bunch of little bulbs, just old incandescent, but it too throws out a lot of light.

That shop is beginning to look like something. Pretty soon, when it is done, you will get a reclining lawn chair, pop the top on a cold one, and sit in the middle of it and just smile for a couple of hours….......(-:

Well, got to buy a little wood, and get going on the out feed table…............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


Blackie_

Yeah, for a Mesquite that is pretty straight. Nice looking tree too… Do you get a lot of the pods shedding off of that?

Jim,

A cold one sounds like a good plan!

I want to get a second coat of paint on that wall, and get at least the tool cabinets / french cleats installed. I have a bad feeling I won't have much space between the top of the cabs and the bottom of the door track. I know it will clear, but not by as much as I was thinking…

Once the cabs are installed, I can move the tool stacker, do a bit more cleanup, and take a break. At that point it will be move tools back where they go, plumb the dust collection and I am done!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


I want to see the lawn chair and the cold one…...........(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


No lawn chair. I have shop stools… Sort of regular padded bar stools, but with the Woodcraft logo! Right now heavily encrusted with drywall dust, but that is a different story…

I was not happy once the paint went on with some very visible low spots in the mud work I did. Most noticeable and annoying were around the sub panel, and the main seam where things just weren't lining up. I took the Tammy Faye Bakker method of makeup application and slapped on liberal amounts of mud to level up the area around the panel, and then skim coated the seam to get rid of the bubbles and depression.










While I was at it, I got kind of carried away, and installed the french cleats for the tool cabinets. I moved the cabs closer together due to a measurement problem. Simply put, I was willing to sacrifice the bridge between the cabinets to move the tool stacker to this wall, closer to where I will actually use it…










I will probably paint the front half of the wall tonight, get that second coat on there, but the area around that sub panel has to wait until it fully dries and I can get it sanded smooth. THEN I can paint, and repaint it…

I am going to grab a second gallon of this cheapie white paint for the weekend. My plan at this point is to…

Tonight. Paint front half of wall, up to the RO tank.

Tomorrow or thurs… Install outlet covers on fully painted wall segment. Move tool cabinets in place and reload them.

Friday. Pick up second gallon of cheap paint. Sand mud around sub panel, smooth it out completely. Paint remainder of new wall, paint the niche common walls behind the tool box as they look NASTY.

Saturday. Second coat of paint on old wall segment, and possibly around where the skimming I did last night was…

Sunday. Take the day off…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


It is nice to see your projects finally coming to completion. Your shop, and to some extent your house, has been a war zone or a work farm, depending how you look at it.

In La Conner, I didn't have to do any major house jobs, to speak of. Just a little deck repair and put in some flashing to better direct rain water and to keep it going from one deck to the next. We have a couple of high balconies for two of the bedrooms, and then have elevated wooden walkway leading to another deck, down below.

Most of my work in La Conner has been setting up the shop, starting with absolutely nothing. Finally I have enough of a shop that I can build the rest of the shop!...............and a few doodads for the living areas. I don't know about you, but if I don't have a shop, I feel like I am living in a hotel, or just visiting someplace. I have to buy or build a stool/chair for that shop, just have to find out what is available around there.

Well, yesterday was mostly making a living, today I will have a little shop time in the morning. Tomorrow and Thursday I should have a little shop time in the afternoons. I am on call this weekend, but I actually have been getting some time in the shop on the call weekends. We will see what happens.

Later…........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


Well I see a little bit of skim coating needing to be done on that seam to the right of the panel. I am not liking how unlevel it looks… But I can fix that quickly…

I have a LONG way to go on the house, but it is getting there. The shop getting done means I can start on the flooring, Flooring getting done means the living room, dining room, front hallway and laundry room are done.

I have so much left to do after that, I would just give up and cry if I though to tackle it all at once. But I am handling this one bit sized piece at a time. The shop build supports the cabinet rebuild for the kitchen and bath, and of course finalizing the sheathing the ridge beam in wood etc…

So while yes, the shop has taken quite a bit of my attention, there actually is a madness to my method… I would very much like for things to be more like they were in my 20s, where my friends all helped each other knock out projects, then go have a beer. I am at the point now where I am mostly working solo, with rare, but helpful when I get it help from LOML… I mentioned this before, but don't get me wrong, I am NOT faulting guys for doing the family thing… Just commenting on the eventual track life takes. This particular birthday just past I guess bugged me more than most. I am further down the road than I should be without having kids, and this house still isn't done yet… I just kind of felt like the home repairs I should be doing at this point in my life is fixing what kids break, not what years of being single and having a lousy roomate did…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


Okay, got the second coat on the wall all the way back to the RO tank, and I pulled the mechanics tools out and painted the back wall and some of the side wall. I am now out of that gallon of junktastic Speedwall semi gloss basic white.

My BIL is supposed to be coming over tomorrow night, and we are going to spend some time with extended family, so it looks like my evenings are taken up until at least Friday, so I guess the plan at this point is…

#1. Let the mud dry bu the sub panel. It should be fine by Friday. If I get a few minutes in the shop prior, reinstall outlet covers on areas where paint is finished.
#2. Sand down the high spots, smooth it out on Friday. Wipe the wall down, then paint the second coat. Okay first over the mud, but that covers MUCH easier than actual drywall apparently…
#3. Finish the paint on the side wall. Then apply second coat to back wall. Clean painting supplies.
#4. Move tool / parts cabs onto the french cleats.

Wait until Saturday then…
#1. Move Mechanics toolbox and tools back into position.
#2. Move dust collector, dust collector, and separator back into position.
#3. Move unattached drywall sheet out of the way temporarily.
#4. Move lathe, band saw, and drill press back into position. Arrange any accessories related close to device that uses them except drill press… Those accessories / storage is another project. they are temporarily housed in the library cabinet.
#5. Move tool stacker system to segment on wall.
#6. Finish un-burying table saw, and size a mount board for the scroll saw. Mount scroll saw. And place on Tool Stacker (Door track on current location are what keep the scroll saw off of the tool stacker!).

Take a break, and when I am done there, take another break… This one should be for several weeks. I need time to recover, and I have heavy transmission work to do on the truck… But once I get back…

#1. Re-plumb dust collection system to the tools…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


I put French cleat up for my parts cabinets….....meaning the plastic things that hold screws, nuts, bolts, etc…....in La Conner. I just used some 3/4" ply for the cleats…....but of course it was a light weight application. I hope to do a similar thing here in Anchorage, but I have no distinct project plans at this time. The cleats make hanging easy, and allow rearrangement and reorganization flexibility.

Hope to get a little time in the shop today, but it is uncertain,

..........have a good one…....


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


.......and re your earlier post…......getting older just slips on by you, and finally you are ancient like me. It is amazing to think how many years I have lived here an how fast they went by. But as I tell my wife, we were having too much fun to think about it….....and we are still having fun…................


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


The tool cabs I have are from I think a Wood magazine plan, more or less anyway. I have my parts bins in one of them. Those 39 drawer units. Sadly one of them presently is 38 drawer. No clue where I put that last one! But I digress. The cleat is 3/4" ply, and is more than sturdy enough to hold the load. I am still chewing on how to store my lathe tools until I get the cabinet built… Probably keep using the shelf I have been on the stand. I hate stooping to pick up a different chisel…

It was actually nice when I went into the shop this morning to see if the drying paint gave me the coverage I wanted. The whole thing just stank of drying latex paint… Sort of like the new car smell I guess. Without a doubt gave me the feeling of accomplishment. They should sell drying latex paint air fresheners!

I actually did just sit on the stool watching the paint dry some last night. Not cold beer time yet, but I just wanted to appreciate the work I have been putting in…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


I find the plastic parts cabs work pretty good, especially the new vinyl stuff that doesn't break, rather than the acrylic. I have some vinyl bins that are over 30 years old that I store large bolts and associated hardware, as well as nails. Those bins might as well be new. The old acrylic stuff, again in the 30 year age range, is slowly getting broken and cracked. With the new parts cabinets they don't include dividers, you actually have to buy them on line. So in La Conner, I actually mass produced some dividers from hardboard and that worked well.

The La Conner shop I am keeping neat and orderly, and keeping up the plaster and paint as I go along. I need to run another circuit at some distance from the panel. I will probably use conduit for appearance. Here in Anchorage, the shop is a calamity in terms of appearance. I may start working my way through it, painting and upgrading as needed. I actually need to make some mobile cabinets for the smaller power tools, just like I am doing in La Conner.

This morning prior to work I finally got my outfeed interface to the TS adjusted to the correct height, and should be able to build the outfeed table rapidly. It is designed to attach to the TS and contains the dust control box for the hanging motor. Bunch of tricky work, but is nearly done. The dust control is the most important part, but it will be nice to have a real outfeed table as well. I just used one of my folding project tables in the past, but they required adjusting frequently. It appears I will be able to hang my super sled off of the side of the saw + outfeed table. The panel sled will fit on the wall where the band saw will go. It will be nice to have those permanently housed as well.

Later…......


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Very busy Saturday... Got the paint on!*
> 
> Well it's been an eventful day. First off, I installed the 9 bulb chandelier that LOML wanted for Christmas in the dining room. I have filled it with 28 watt screw in Halogen screw in bulbs. Even with the muted globes this thing puts out enough light with these bulbs to make me feel like a 747 is landing on my head!
> 
> Next we took my Father in Law out to Thai food for lunch. He had never experienced Thai and liked it! Woo Hoo!
> 
> We ran a couple of errands and came back home. I finished what I was going to do with sanding, and painted the wall in the garage / shop. THe first coat when it was wet looked bad. But now with a couple of hours of dry time on it, the bleed through seems to be stopped…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last big thing I was planning for today was installation of the cold air intake tube on the truck. The stock intake tube narrows down VERY far to around 2" diameter, choking the engine, and making it work like crazy to make power…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The install required some massaging on the edges with my sander though. The plastic molding wasn't exactly neatly trimmed. But installed the throttle without a doubt responds a bunch quicker. Hopefully this will translate to better mileage if I keep my foot out of it…


DB tons of pods, I have a hard time keeping my dog from eating them.


----------



## dbhost

*Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*

So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…










I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…

It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?

But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…

I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…

I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…

I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!

I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…

I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.

If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…

If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


----------



## eccentrictinkerer

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I've had the same problem with an excess inventory of tools. Somewhat valuable to me, but not worth much on Craigslist. I had a tool garage sale last summer and got rid of some bigger stuff, but still had some serviceable hand and power tools. (BTW, dealing with 4sshats during a garage sale is very trying.)

I'm semi-retired and have had 12 wonderful years of being a handyman/re-modeler so I accumulate a fair amount of surplus electrical and plumbing fixtures and other supplies from my jobs.

I've donating this stuff to the Re-Store (Habitat for Humanity), so I took my excess tools up to to the Re-Store and dropped them off. They were very happy to have them.

Re-Store/Habitat for Humanity

Re-store made some money, some industrious person is making use of the tools and I get a little tax write-off.

Win, win, win situation!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


The jig saw comes out rarely in my shop, but they are extremely useful when installing in wall boxes and circuits. I have an old Skil here, and a Rigid in La Conner. Some work previously assigned to the jig saw now is done by the multi-tool in my shop….........it is more controllable and makes a smoother cut.

I rarely sell tools, but generally speaking, by the time I replace them, they are hopelessly out of date or non-functioning…............


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I see something missing, no windows for natural lighting.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I think I might do the Re-store route. Goodwill near me won't take power tools…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I did manage to dig up some tools that are redundant, but I don't want to get rid of. My 22+ year old Snap On diagonal cutting pliers, my impact socket extensions, various screwdrivers and pliers etc… It is going to take a while to organize all of this, but it should be worth it!

Yeah the lacking windows thing kid of stinks… The HOA prohibits them in garage doors, and I am not going to cut holes in the brick to put in a window… Maybe one of these years I will sacrifice attic space and put in a skylight!


----------



## jumbojack

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


db check into Solar Tubes. They too will take up attic space but the light they throw is remarkable. Good choice on the Re-Store, ours is called Habitat for Humanity. I am taking a grinder, chop saw, and a miter box there this week and plan on checking out what can come home with me. It is a vicious circle.


----------



## Blackie_

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


ah, Ok DB yea I understand, My house is half and half hard and framed, my garage is framed siding, and I'm not in an HOA.

I like Jumbojack's idea

I think it's kind of petty that they won't allow windows in garage doors, I see no unattraction or repulsive in that.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


There is all sorts of stupid pettiness that goes on with my HOA… And dumb stuff they shouldn't allow that certain folks connected to the HOA but that is another story all together…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


BTW. I have found a home for the surplus tools. I talked to my Brother in Law, and our nephew who is all of I guess 19 now I think… is building up a tool collection for his own shop. He is wanting to pick up his Dad's trade, auto restoration and customizing, which oddly enough, includes quite a bit of woodworking… So off they go to help him get a leg up!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


Actually, come to think of it, I do pass on some tools to my son-in-law in Fairbanks. Since they usually drive down, they can handle bulkier things. He also gets some of my cast off electronics. Although I use many of the castoff electronic things in upgrading my shop audio and office audio, there always seem to be redundant items.

Busy morning, then I am off for the weekend starting this afternoon, barring anything unexpected….............


----------



## dbray45

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I called Habitat about donating my radial arm saw. They never got back to me so Salvation Army got it.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


*dbray45*

Well, they can't have my RAS, it is the busiest tool in the shop. I bought it new in 1970, Craftsman 10". It is now a crosscut specialist. Outfitted with a great blade, near perfect dust control, a large work surface, and a fence where I can set a stop and get better than 1/100th of an inch accuracy without measuring.

Nope, they aren't gonna get my old pal.

I have a high end compound sliding miter saw at my vacation home, which is just great, but I would trade it in a heart beat for a clone of my RAS with all its upgrades.

But, I am a tinkerer, a little romantic, and I, well not to the extent that dbHost goes to, somewhat conservative in shop expenditures…..........for no good reason.

I hope your RAS goes to a good home. Of course, some of them, were not the best. Mine is the old time cast iron beast. It needs constant attention to make sure it doesn't go out of alignment, but it is easy to fix.

For the average woodworker, the miter saws are better, I am sure.

......and I bet that is true for you…....

..........sigh…...


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


Hmmm. Conservative with shop expenditures. I like that…

Sounds so much better than cheap.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


Sherie would like it too.

Conservative…..........


----------



## dbray45

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


Actually Jim, I liked the RAS. After fixing it and aligning it, it was a very good tool. I just don't have the space for it.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


*dbray45*
They do take up space, I guess, and if you have to have a miter saw for whatever reason, then they may be redundant. I don't have a large shop here, but it is much bigger than my shop in La Conner. I could probably fit a RAS there, but it would be pushing it. I have roughly a 22×20 foot space here in Anchorage.

So I quickly went down to the shop to measure the current size of my 10" RAS. The table is 49" wide, and from front to back the footprint is 38". Yup, that is a little on the big side. Of course the TS takes up much more room, but that is an essential tool. Using the TS this weekend to cut a 26" by 36" piece out of a 48" by 48" piece of plywood makes one understand the capabilities of the TS. In La Conner, I would have used the plunge saw for the final cut, because I don't have a panel sled there.

The table on the RAS is a 1" sandwich of two pieces of 1/2" MDF (all I could find here). Using the original Sears mechanism for leveling, the table is dead flat using a 4 foot level. I have adjusted the table once in 4 years.

I think the things I really like about the RAS is the ability to control it with almost no force and line up the work piece very precisely. My saw sits quite high, but that was the way they were intended to be used, considering I have the original stand for it. The table is 42.5 inches from the floor, I am about 6 feet tall.

But, I have no intention of acquiring one for La Conner, I will depend on a good sled for the TS, which I have yet to build. Here in Anchorage I have a super sled, which is an extraordinary tool, and a very large panel sled. A good plunge saw in La Conner has solved many issues with handling large items. It is just a little slow to set up.

Have a good day, off to the salt mines….......


----------



## dbray45

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


In usable space, I have less than 1/2 that space which a table saw, router table, dust collector, and planer are sitting. The RAS was on an assembly table that I needed somewhere else and the new work bench went where the table and RAS were. I have a manual miter box that is pretty good and at 90 and 45 degrees, is pretty close.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I hear what you are saying. My space in La Conner is more like yours. When I moved to Anchorage, we bought a house, and then moved again 18 months later, because I realized I couldn't fit in a shop in the first place, but it was all we could get in a tight market. I have been used to having space for tools most of my life. Sometimes more like what you have, but thankfully better in the present house. You have to adjust to the space you have…...sounds like you made good decisions.


----------



## dbray45

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


We have been looking for a retirement home for a couple of years in FL. I retire in 5 years years and have a very limited budget so we have started early. If we can rent it out between now and then, all the better - but we have to find it first. After my wife's must haves, I will get at least a 2 car garage as part of the mix.

It is all good!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


I don't know about you guys, but when retirement comes, I am getting away from the hurricane prone coasts and moving inland somewhere. Maybe central to west Texas… But that is a long way off at this point. A lot can change in 20+ years…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


Actually, I don't have any complaints about the La Conner shop, I just have to pull out the big power tools and put them back when I am done. Right now, that takes only 10 minutes or less. So if I pull out a car, I actually have a good sized shop. Just have to be careful to not keep a lot of useless stuff there.

My vacation home is no where near hurricanes, and doesn't usually get any snow. Rains less than here in Anchorage. It is a good environment solution for us. Volcano eruptions can occur, but the wind drives ash away from La Conner. Earthquakes are possible there. The house sits too high to flood. Don't know if I would retire to that house, but retirement isn't high on my list of things to do.

But if you can use a 2 car garage as a shop, and spill out onto the driveway at times, you are in great shape.


----------



## dbray45

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


My wife has declared that the car will not go in an attached garage, cannot stand the smell of gas and oil - had that in my grandmother's house, so it will be a dedicated shop. I cannot argue with that logic nor would I if I could. I don't mind the idea of the firewall aspect between the shop and house either. I will add to that when I set it up.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much done, and it felt so good to not do it! What to do with surplus tools?*
> 
> So I was not going to go out to the shop yesterday, but there were tools inside the house that I needed to put up. So I went out there, and admired my wall as it were. The second coat on the front 2/3 of the wall is now dry, and I can't see any bleed through. The dark spots you see in the photo are cast shadows…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get the tools put up. Loose screwdrivers, mallets (From doing paint work), various drywall tools etc… all got put in their proper places, and then my backside got put in the proper place. The woodcraft shop stool…
> 
> It's just a stupid wall, why does this feel like such a major accomplishment?
> 
> But alas, i found yet more flaws in the unpainted side. Out came the taping knife, and the box of mud. Blemishes filled…
> 
> I did manage to get by Home Depot yesterday, and managed to pick up a few things for the shop. 2 more gallons of el cheapo paint, a tool bag for my belt sander (I know, a lot of you don't like / use cases / bags, but they help keep my tools organized and undamaged). I also picked up a new Ryobi variable speed jig saw. No Bosch by any means, and it may end up going back soon. Not crazy about the twist mount blade attachment mechanism. However my Skil jig saw pushed me over the limit with the bent foot this past week trimming drywall. I did however get mad enough at it, AFTER the Ryobi came home to figure out how to remove the foot, jam it in the vice, and straighten the foot out. It is working pretty nice now…
> 
> I am at a bit of a quandry now. I have some surplus tools that I would like to get rid of, however they are common tools lots of guys are trying to dump off on my local Craigslist. Specifically…
> 
> I want to unload my Black and Decker Firestorm 10" miter saw. I upgraded to a Harbor Freight 12" slider with a Diablo blade and love it, although I am considering upgrading THAT to the double bevel that HF now sells. I never thought a double bevel slider would be in my price range, but this one is!
> 
> I had considered keeping the B&D miter saw and installing a metal cutting blade, but my BIL has a Ryobi cut off saw that works great and I can use at any time… And I very rarely do metal cut off work…
> 
> I also want to unload my B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have never really liked this router and just want it gone.
> 
> If I decide to keep the Ryobi jig saw, I am going to be offloading this old Skil that is now fixed. It's no super accurate jig saw by any means, but it works well for what it is, as long as the shoe is straight which it is now… Previously it was giving me angled cuts through stock because I, well dropped it and bent the shoe… Dummy…
> 
> If someone in the Houston / Galveston area needs this stuff, get them in touch with me. I will let it go cheap… I want the space in my shop back!


*dbray*

I think you need to constantly remind your wife about the smell of gasoline and oil, just to solidify your hold on the future garage. That is a problem that is going to be an asset…........(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*

It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!

Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.

I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.

I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…

#1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
#2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
#3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
#4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible. 
#5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
#6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
#7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
#8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
#9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
#10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections. 
#11. clean, clean, clean…
#12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…










Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…

Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


db,
That's a Nice, Big, Solid looking Cabinet. Is it hanging on Cleats or mounted to the stud wall?

I like the idea of the pegboard door inserts, especially over a work table/area.

Best Regards. - Len.

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## helluvawreck

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


It's really looking great and that will add a lot of organization.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Actually, the item going under those cabs is my lathe. I use my workbench as outfeed support for my table saw and have that as the center of my shop. I see a lot of guys put their table saws against a wall which seems to work for them, I tried that, I didn't care for that arrangement with the way I work…

I actually posted a completed project on the first of the two cabs quite a while back, this one doesn't have the inner doors like the second one does. I built it for holding small parts cabs etc…

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49047

The unoccupied door on the left won't stay that way for long. I have plenty that still isn't in place!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Ah Ha! That is the style of cabinet I want to make for here. For La Conner, I won't have near the amount of stuff, so my present strategy of store bought parts bins and peg board will probably suffice. At least for the short haul. Somewhere I saw that design, or something similar, and I had envisioned using piano hinge just like you have, as well.

Never enough storage, it seems….......

Did you have the forethought to take some "before" pictures?


> ?


????

If you did, frame a collage of the best examples and put them on the wall so you can really gloat!

Looking good…....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Okay guys, I am getting good enough feedback on those cabs. Including friends not on LJs, if I can find the plans I will at least direct you to how to get them. (They are from Wood Magazine, and subject to copyright, so I will point you to where to get the magazine, what issue etc… might be able to find it in a library somewhere…)


----------



## BillJ_Portland

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


I just finished building one of those cabinets as well. Limited on wall space, these more than make up for necessary storage. Now I have to "adjust" a previous bench to make room for the cabinet to be hung.
The link to the plans I used:
http://www.woodstore.net/shtoca.html


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Bill
Thanks for the link. I saved it, and with a little luck, I might find time to build a couple…........

.......down to the shop, and hope that call stays quiet…............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Yep, that's them! If you have a lot of peg board and you want to compress the amount of wall space you are using, these things are fantastic. I have my planes, hand saws, honing equipment, pnuematic guns except for the framing nailer (that thing is a beast!), measuring and marking tools, etc… in there…

I am really enjoying looking at these photos. Compared to my old photos, I can see how much brighter the semi gloss white paint makes this space… I have no clue what sort of idiot used bone white instead of bright white in a garage with no windows, but boy what a difference!

Actually scratch that. I know. The same kind of idiot that brings his wife, AND his girlfriend to the closing on the house… (That should have been a MAJOR clue something was wrong!)


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Sounds like the basis for a hit cinema comedy!!

I see more of those than I like, but it is a give and take between the guys and the gals among our friends….........

Glad things are…........looking brighter….......(-:


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Chilling out today. Getting ready for dinner and Agatha Christie play…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Back to the shop, no mercy here. The project from hell, (the table saw outfeed table/dust containment structure), has an end in sight, meaning sometime before March 1….......(-:

Have fun on your weekend "off". Taking a breather, especially after slugging through the tough stuff, should make the rest feel a lot easier. Pacing is how you can be an old timer like me and still be productive….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Tool cabinets installed, next steps...*
> 
> It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!
> 
> Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application so it should dry pretty quickly.
> 
> I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.
> 
> I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer…). Mostly get it out of the way, then I…
> 
> #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC. The floor jack goes under the box, and the jack stands get pushed up right against the front of it. Clean in and around it. Dust, grease, empty packaging from parts etc… gone. Sweep up the whole area around it. Oh, did I mention clean?
> #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place. Clean it off and around it as I go. Move the folding sawhorses under the lathe stand (they fit well there). And did I mention clean?
> #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off. I guess I mentioned clean there right?
> #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2×4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out. Clean that off best possible.
> #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place. Clean it off. There has been some blowby on the bag, so once that is clean, seal the seam between bag and ring with duct tape. And did I mention clean?
> #6. Move tool stacker system. Blow the dust / crap off of it. Oh, did I mention clean? Are you sensing a theme yet?
> #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system. Clean the mess that makes. (DC not hooked up yet remember?)
> #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place. Clean. Scotch brite and WD-40 the top. And did I mention clean?
> #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc… But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories…
> #10, Install dust collection ductwork, and make DC connections.
> #11. clean, clean, clean…
> #12. Move freezer onto platform in shop. Make good on the deal I made with LOML to get the sub panel and insulation in the first place…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that is done, and before LOML finds more for me to do…
> 
> Sit back on the stool, crack open a cold beer and enjoy the fruits of my labor…


Intermission. .. good play so far…


----------



## dbhost

*Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*

Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.

The sub panel…









Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…










I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


Is it time to say….....ta dahhhhhhhhhhhhhh…........yet?

Not quite I suspect, but boy it sure is looking nice.

Phone is killing me today. Thankfully, I am not working tomorrow and not on call. I always take off Monday after a weekend on call. Privilege of old age, or some such…........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


Oh I have so much done, and so much yet to do…

The 29 gallon 2HP Harbor Freight compressor never moved out of this niche, and has been used HEAVILY during the rebuild time for automotive work…









The 8 gallon 2HP Harbor Freight compressor is finally stashed back under the DC stand. I had to cut the stand down a hair / narrow it up so that it would fit in the niche with the outlet next to the tool box.. I also added spreaders to stiffen it up some… 









The mechanics tool box, Harbor Freight DC, Thien separator, small compressor, and band saw rolled into place. The band saw can be rolled out to make room for bigger workpieces such as resawing…









I need to run the DC ducting still, but here is the band saw… I am actually not super happy with this 4" duct. I am thinking about installing a 2.5" duct in the lower door, and a 2.5" duct on the upper guide…









The tool stacker is installed. I need to get 2 more brackets for the sander. I probably ought to lower the entire thing about 4" so I can put the sander on the top (lightest item…)









The drill press has been moved to its home. This is on a Harbor Freight mobile base. Unlike the band saw base, I am NOT happy with this one. It is bowing across the spreaders. I need to redo it..









And this is a great way to get your ladders out of the way. I need to brace this setup and double the hooks in opposite directions so that I can hang both the 6' and 10' ladders at the same time…









So for the most part the "power wall" is done except for dust collection ducting. I have a shelf over the RO tank that I missed the studs with the bracket screws. I need to go back and fix that, but that is it…

The opposite bay, and the middle where the table saw is is still a complete disaster, however the mounds 'o junk are reducing rapidly… I can actually walk next to my saw now!

I have a few other minor things to be moved into place, or jetissoned. Of particular interest the cutoff bin (30 gallon steel trash can), and some bulky cutoffs of some unknown stormfall wood that was from Ike that I wanted to try turning. Every single time I have tried to chuck that stuff up it litereally fractures and flies apart. I am thinking that stuff needs to go to the fire pit at the deer camp… I also need to clean up my lumber racks. LOML has been putting all sorts of non wood on there.

At this rate though, I should be close enough to done to have the freezer in the shop before I go take the truck up to my brother in law's shop to do the transmission…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


I have reasonable control over my cutoffs and scrap wood. That is the result of my cutoffs cart, which is really extremely useful…...

Cutoffs Control

Now I am much less likely to use a large piece of wood or plywood when I have a cutoff to fill the job.

Dowels, aluminum extrusions, iron (rods, bars, and angle) go into my rolling "Tall Stuff" gizmo, built essentially from scrap everything…....

Scrap projects

Now I can actually find those things. I need to build one more, however, I am running out of space. It takes up minimal space.

So, might get a little shop stuff done today, but not much. Tired, and I had to help Sherie with some computer stuff….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


I have a lumber cart with cutoff bins planned for this years.


----------



## NormG

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


Congrats and moving forward is great progress


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


I got nothing done today. Had my physical and flu shot yesterday and I ended up with a fever and vomiting… ick.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Walls done. Moving tools back into place!*
> 
> Paint is on, I have the lathe where it belongs. However I moved the band saw to the wrong place termporarily… I still need to dig.
> 
> The sub panel…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lathe in its final place. Band saw and drill press moved to the wall to get out of the way…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to keep cleaning like crazy, and get that tool stacker where it belongs!


Working through the week, and not doing much else. On call today, but not tomorrow, and that leads into a weekend off. When I am on call for a weekend, by Thursday I am frazzled, and it takes till Sunday to feel normal. Such is the life of a working old man…...........


----------



## dbhost

*Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*

Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…

If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.

I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.

I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.

And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!

I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


I haven't tried to use French cleats with real heavy stuff, just the relatively light parts cabinets in La Conner. I do screw them into the studs, but I am sure you do as well. For heavy stuff, I would probably use lag screws in bigger cleats.

Can't say I was overly productive this weekend, but I did work quite a few hours in the shop yesterday. Had to run the TS switch wire from the motor through the cabinet and out. That required unwiring the switch first, which is slightly complex because of my modified TS switch. I also put in a grommet in the cabinet where it exited. Just plugging along.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


I know with say like a sagging gate, I can use eye bolts, cable and a turnbuckle to pull it back into square. I am wondering if there is anything I can do to bring that existing miter saw cabinet back into square, and more importantly, figure out why the dang thing racked in the first place..


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


If you have a reasonably thick back piece, then I think it shouldn't be able to move. I usually build things from my own plans, well, essentially always. I try to visualize the forces they we be subject to, and then build them so they won't collapse or sag in any direction. But I have a classic example, from early on, when I just used some cheap left over fiber material for shelves for a rack for bolt boxes, and in spite of dadoed plywood for everything else, those flimsy shelves sagged. Still in use, but ugly. Now it would be plywood all the way, with some supporting dividers and there wouldn't be a problem. I am much more careful, and much neater than I used to be, meaning 25 years ago.

Pull it apart….....you will probably learn a lot.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


I am actually somewhat stumped on this one. Yeah I think I need to pull it apart, not sure how to do that though. Used Titebond II glue to build it, so I don't think steam would do much to it… Any suggestions?

As I have continued to dig and clean, not to mention slear off walls from storage no longer used, I have found items that I have been looking for, most notably my Campbell Hausfeld blow guns. I was gifted a CH basic compressor starter set, not the one with the coil hose, but the one with the couplers, tire gauge, tire chuck, and a couple of cheapie blow guns. I misplaced the guns…

In all honesty, I kind of wish they had stayed misplaced so I could go get better ones. The quality of these is just so cheap that I want to replace them, and may still, keeping the CH pieces for spare duty or donating. I really do dislike these and wouldn't have purchased them on my own as I am familiar with CH stuff and for the most part find Harbor Freight pieces to be of superior quality…

It is now freezing here, with sleet / freezing rain. Being coastal Texas there is no road salt etc… available, so there is a thick coating of ice buidling up on everything. We are off at home today because of that. LOML wants me to help her with laundry today. Will try to get shop time, don't think it is going to happen though.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


I don't know exactly what you are looking at, but even unloading it and looking at all sides might give you a clue. If it was a glued piece, those joints should not have moved, unless there was a total failure of a joint some place.

If the wood thickness was inadequate, then it could obviously warp and bend and then multiple pieces would have to do the same thing. If it was just under engineered, meaning, the cabinet received more stress than you planned for, then bending and warping could occur. You could clamp it straight and then add additional wood where needed.

It's a little like buying something relatively cheap, knowing that you would immediately revamp it. I bought a rolling charger-starter like that, and immediately replaced the cables, clamps, power cord and handle. Ended up with a very robust item that has lasted about 20 years. Did the same thing with a scroll stand that came with the saw. I didn't need the stand for the scroll saw, so I beefed it up and now my drill press uses it.

But I think the first thing to do is unload it, turn it backwards and upside down and figure out what happened. If you used glue and metal fasteners, then the joints are probably fine.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


Jim, from the looks of things, it is looking like the glue failed. I popped a couple of the screws out, and tugged a corner and sure enough I was able to easily separate at the joint..

I am not exactly thrilled with the way this thing came together anyway, so odds are I am going to at least redo some parts of it that made me less than thrilled, not to mention toss out the bottle of Titebond II I have. Apparently there is a problem with this batch…

I am now completely tired of working on the shop for this week. Probably won't mess with it until Monday at the soonest. I have to really push to get the truck done, and I am not really sure where what remains in the shop is going to live. I REALLY need to figure out some nook and cranny type storage here soon!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


Gad Zooks, a glue failure is the last thing I would have imagined. I put things together with the yellow Elmer's stuff for years, with no failures. Now, after reading the article in FWW a couple of years ago, where they glued transparent plastic to wood…...I do things differently. Inadequate glue was the biggest problem. They said apply glue to both surfaces, and brush it over them evenly….....which I have done now for…....a couple of years I think. But I remember just throwing some glue in joints, and they always seemed to hold.

Hmmmm….....some environmental change affecting the glue? That is weird.

Well, more detail might be useful, so others don't duplicate your problem. From what I have read, even clamping isn't that important. So a screwed joint should be overkill. I glue and nail a lot of stuff, have for many decades, and have seen no failures. The glue is suspect.

Well, give it all some time, and do some thinking on the storage. And do some thinking on throwing things away….......

Well, off to bed….....

Later…......


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


.......and by the way, I use Titebond III here in Anchorage, but have used some Titebond II in La Conner, just to see how it works. I don't have any tales to tell yet, but the Titebond III projects are extremely strong, and show no signs of problems. I will check on the Titebond II stuff in La Conner, a wetter climate perhaps than Anchorage, but not as humid as your climate.

.......zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz….....


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


I have mentioned this elsewhere, but I don't think the problem is necessarily the glue itself, but rather I think the plywood more or less drank up the glue and starved the joint. I will be pulling this apart soon, exactly when I can't say, but soon… Once it is solid, and of course square, I will finish building the drawers, and finally, get the table saw & router accessories out of the tote they are in, and into the cabinet.

LOML doesn't seem to understand what I am doing in here, but she does like the fact that the house projects are getting done. I guess since she isn't seeing many wood projects completed she can't grasp why I spend so much time out there. She forgets time to build skills… I guess I should throw the knitting thing she is doing as an example…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Big object 3D Tetris... And finding some things I need to redo...*
> 
> Okay I am pretty sure all but the most uh, seasoned among us is familiar with Tetris right? That block stacking video game where you have to slide certain shape objects into certain shape holes by spinning and sliding them etc…
> 
> If you are somehow not familiar with Tetris, HERE is the wikipedia entry on it.
> 
> I was only able to spend a couple of hours this weekend working on the shop, mostly due to other around the house obligations, but I did spend about 2 or 3 hours playing "Tetris" by moving pretty much all the junk that was on the "other" side of the shop from the one worked. I now have all the dust collection ducting staged in one area waiting to be installed. I also have the lawn & garden stuff, about 90% on, around, and in the lawn and garden rack.
> 
> I have managed to get the painting and drywall supplies stashed under my workbench. Not an ideal situation, but it is what it is, and not a lot I can do about it for now. Just live with it. They will leave eventually once the painting is all done anyway.
> 
> And I discovered when casually looking at gaps by the drawers, I have a cabinet, the big one, the miter saw cab, that is quite not square. Sad thing is it was square when I glued and screwed it together. Oh well… I had design problems with it anyway… Time to build another one!
> 
> I am also finding the french cleat that is holding the library cabinet is under, well a bit too much stress. I am going to add a second cleat to both it and the wall to help support the weight. Either that, or mount the cab itself directly to the wall studs… Yeah, not gonna happen… Cleat #2 here I come! Ugh…


My wife doesn't complain about my shop time or expenses, because she is into quilting, and she has much more money into her machines than I do in mine….........(-:

I agree that the more likely problem is insufficient glue. The issue is to get adequate glue there, and then put the joint together before it disappears. I like the nail gun because it is much easier to get the joint together quickly than with screws. I still use a screws in many places, with or without glue, just less often than I used to.


----------



## dbhost

*More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*

So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!

I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.

I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.

The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…

The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.

I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…

It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


----------



## DocSavage45

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


Just as long as you learn. Behavioral definition of intelligence? One trial learning! LOL! Just make new mistakes. Re floor problems. You can purchase leg adapters from Rockler or what ever your favorite woodworking store might be. Heavy duty adjusters will allow you to adjust for leg and floor differences. Don't do what I did. Attached them really well to the walls. LOL!

Now I have to change bench heights. To match my cabinet saw. The old height matched my old craftsman table saw.

good luck!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


Actually that is exactly what I want to do with the next version. Stiffen up the base and use leveling adjusters.

I am pretty sure I would have to adjust bench heights. I designed this bench so that if need be, I could take the saw off and use the space as continued outfeed for the table saw, which is a Ryobi BT3100 and somewhat tall…


----------



## Grumpymike

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


My pet peeve today is people who use acronyms with out spelling it out somewhere in the article.
In the woodworking circle RO is an acronym for Random Orbital (as in sander)

So I would suspect you have invented a Random Orbital Tank?? or could it be a Recycled Oil tank, or maybe Rotten Old-guy tank.

I will lose sleep over this you know …


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


Sorry, RO as in Reverse Osmosis water purification system…


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


Anything worth doing is worth doing right.

Preping and finishing your workshop is time well invested, for many years you will reap the rewards.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


Thanks. Yeah I am not sure how I managed to flat out miss the studs with the shelf I isntalled, but I sure did! I mean just flat missed… Oh well. It will be well worth it when it is done.

And at least with the way it is going now, the whole shebang will be painted bright semi gloss white by the time this is all over, the ceiling too will be bright white flat. I should have MUCH greater visibility in the shop than previously. It will be painfully obvious to all these walls have been worked on though, everyone else in the neighborhood has bone white walls, that have gotten dingy and banged up over 30+ years…

I know I am going through painful amounts of detail on the process of getting this shop, and in turn the home it is attached to in proper shape, but I so so as a self check, and hopefully as inspiration to those that think they can't do this. When you consider my physical shape not to mention finances, if I can do this, you should be able to as well!


----------



## NormG

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


But, you found it and are taking corrective action. Everyday is a good day to learn


----------



## Grumpymike

dbhost said:


> *More cleanup, more drywall work. Fixing some mistakes, and discovering a HUGE mistake.*
> 
> So I spent some more time cleaning up. Mostly putting things back that went into the house that should be in the shop. I also removed the shelf above the RO tank, patched the wall behind where the freezer is going, sanded, mudded some more, patched where the drywall anchors went and mudded. It is now in the waiting phase for drying… Why do these things take so stinking long?!
> 
> I think I found my problem with the miter saw cabinet, and it is a design flaw, and a bad one at that. I believe it is time to start a major redesign, including using a torsion box base, however even at that, I need to support some substantial weight over a large area, and unfortunately the surface it is sitting on (the garage floor) is stepped, and quite uneven.
> 
> I figure at least temporarily I need to create storage for the stuff that is being housed in the miter saw bench, such as routers, drills, and other handheld power tools. I have space above the mechanics tool box to mount a couple of shelves, and that is most likely where they will go.
> 
> The reason I am spending so much time working on these shop projects, such as custom cabinets etc… is so that I can learn my mistakes there, and learn to correct them, before I move on to inside the house…
> 
> The table saw and workbench are almost all cleared off. I need the wall above the RO tank to be completed, and that shelf done so that I can mount some open bins between the RO control unit, and the extension cord reel.
> 
> I also need to take some rechargable batteries to be recycled to Home Depot I am guessing…
> 
> It is at the same time satisfying, and frustrating to be so close to being done, yet so far away… But at least I can learn from my screw ups, and take on another challenge. I have to look at it like Thomas Edison did. I haven't failed however many times, I have learned so many different ways NOT to make shop cabinets!


RO water system?? Geez, I would of guessed that in about two months …

I really had to chuckle over your missed studs … As I was putting up a lumber rack in the new shop, I used a stud finder and located the stud … measured over 16 inches and marked the next stud and so on … I screwed a 2×4 to the wall only to have it pull loose … what the? ... well seems that a stud finder will also locate a vent pipe … DOH!!
I missed every stud by 4".

White ceilings and walls is a good choice for light reflection. Mine is bright white ceiling and an egg shell white on the walls. Heck, I even used white pegboard on the cabinet doors and the wall mounted pegboard. Huge difference. And coupled with the skylights, my shop is as bright as Sunday morning all day, but I do turn on the lights after sundown.

To save a few bucks, look around construction sites, you would be amazed at how much good lumber the carpenters waste. I look through the scrap pile and harvest a lot of useable stuff. Watch out for nails! these guys wont take the time to pull anything. I have built my new assembly table, and lumber rack with wood salvaged at one site.

looking forward to seeing photo's of your completed shop … yeah, right … they're never done.


----------



## dbhost

*Not much time, but some...*

Got the rough layer of mud sanded, found the low spots. Some were much larger than I had hoped. Reskimmed with fresh mud. The skimming was tight enough I doubt I will need to sand it at all…

Just need to wait for this to dry then slap primer / paint on it again, call it done.

Will probably get busy with the caulk gun tonight and get the door trim to wall gap closed up. Once this is said and done, paint the door trim, door, and wall, then we move the freezer in place.

The wall above the Reverse Osmosis tank was sanded smooth last night and it looks perfect. Just need to wipe it free of dust, and paint. Then I can find the studs again, mark it up, and mount that shelf, and install the brackets for the bins. Gonna be a squeeze but it will all fit. I have a second set of brackets I am planning on using over the first shelf and of course cut to match a shelf, that should provide ample light duty storage for the shop.

I have some mid term storage needs for the motor / shaft and pulleys for the drum sander project. No I haven't given up on that, Just needed the shop ready to get back on it… You will see blog posts about that SOON…

I am figuring once I get the ducting back in place, the remaining wall insulated and completed, and everything more or less functioning, I am thinking of handling the upgrades in the following order. Some of this is teeny tiny nee naw stuff, some is big stuff. All of it will keep my busy. And much of this will take place between non shop projects.

#1. Pull the library cabinet down, build and install second french cleat, attach firmly to the studs, and the cabinet. Create and install plywood doors for cabinet. Yes this is a design change, but one I want to do to protect the contents of the cabinet, not to mention clean up the look of the shop.

#2. Pull the miter saw station. Pop the joints apart, Redesign cabinet to be 1.5" shorter to accomodate for block and leveling feet for the cabinet. Obtain or create clamping squares, and glue / clamp and screw this thing back together, SQUARE this time. Level it and verify square upon installation. Complete the drawers. Populate the drawers with table saw, and router accessories.

#3. Finalize design for drill press mobile base with removable cabinet. I am close, however I am having trouble with my HF mobile base. SERIOUSLY considering borrowing my BIL and his welder. I would think 1.25" x 1.25" L section steel would be as acceptable as hardwood for stretchers. At least box section steel would doubtlessly work. I can make the cuts I need, I just need it welded up… And of course cut and have welded on a braced platform to bolt the drill press to. I would like to add a second pair of the heavy levelers to the back as well, the floor slopes badly, and levelers would make this DP a LOT more enjoyable to use!. Once done, I would have to scrub it up with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. scuff it, prime, and paint the whole thing and let it cure. If ti will fit, cure it in the oven to bake the finish on. Then I can build the removable cabinet, Really just a box with dadoes and cut to fit plates so that I can have easy pull out access to my drill bit sets, drills, jigs etc, and one drawer for loose bits.

#4. Finalizes the design for, and build the base cabinet / ballast box for the lathe. Whatever I go with is going to need levelers with some serious reach, the floor slopes a LOT where the lathe is…

#5. Build a rolling sheet goods / cutoffs rack.

#6. Finish the design and build of the wide drum sander. I have opted for space reasons to limit the width of my drum to 24". I doubt I will ever try to use it to flatten a table top, so no big deal there…

#7. Build an improved base cabinet / mobile base for the table saw. Right now it is just ideas in my head, but it will undoubtedly be based on a welded steel base for rigidity. Probably have the whole thing set on a set of kick down wheels and levelers.

#8. Build a radically improved workbench. Tossing the ideas from the existing that I do not like (too light, top too thin, lack of useful storage, incorporating what I do. (Overall size, size of base, location and placement of bench dog holes etc…). I will likely be building the next base with 2×4s and joining it together with M&T. The top will be ripped from 2×10 SYP as well. For budget mostly, but also to prove it can be done. Not that it should, but that it can… I have a line up on some old inventory 2×10s from a friend's family barn, been in storage there probably longer than I have been alive. Most of the pieces are good and straight. The exchange would be to build a second bench, designed for automotive / implement work. (No bench dog holes, top mounted vise, wrap the top with Stainless Steel, they provide the SS and get it bent / welded at the corners…).

#9. Add a rolling clamp rack, either bought, or built, and plumb the compressed air system, including a 25 ft hose reel at the back of the shop, and a 50 footer at the front.

#10. Build a heavy duty shelf above the mechanics toolbox to house the small air compressor. This is to prep to eliminate the DC stand.

#11. Build a new 30 gallon steel trash can based Thien separator with 5" side inlet, and 5" outlet. Build side flip stand to orient impeller directly over separator for HF DC. Tie into existing duct work. This will place the DC on the floor, and eliminate several performance choking bends in the ductwork within the DC itself, and between the DC and the separator.

#12. Finish the design / build of the SCMS dust hood. At this point, the dust port of the SCMS just spews dust into the worthless bag, and in turn spews that everywhere. I need to fix that soonest possible.

At some point, hopefully soon I am hoping to pick up the Rockler router "State Park" stencil set. I am hoping to make a shop sign to go above the man-door to the house.


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Not much time, but some...*
> 
> Got the rough layer of mud sanded, found the low spots. Some were much larger than I had hoped. Reskimmed with fresh mud. The skimming was tight enough I doubt I will need to sand it at all…
> 
> Just need to wait for this to dry then slap primer / paint on it again, call it done.
> 
> Will probably get busy with the caulk gun tonight and get the door trim to wall gap closed up. Once this is said and done, paint the door trim, door, and wall, then we move the freezer in place.
> 
> The wall above the Reverse Osmosis tank was sanded smooth last night and it looks perfect. Just need to wipe it free of dust, and paint. Then I can find the studs again, mark it up, and mount that shelf, and install the brackets for the bins. Gonna be a squeeze but it will all fit. I have a second set of brackets I am planning on using over the first shelf and of course cut to match a shelf, that should provide ample light duty storage for the shop.
> 
> I have some mid term storage needs for the motor / shaft and pulleys for the drum sander project. No I haven't given up on that, Just needed the shop ready to get back on it… You will see blog posts about that SOON…
> 
> I am figuring once I get the ducting back in place, the remaining wall insulated and completed, and everything more or less functioning, I am thinking of handling the upgrades in the following order. Some of this is teeny tiny nee naw stuff, some is big stuff. All of it will keep my busy. And much of this will take place between non shop projects.
> 
> #1. Pull the library cabinet down, build and install second french cleat, attach firmly to the studs, and the cabinet. Create and install plywood doors for cabinet. Yes this is a design change, but one I want to do to protect the contents of the cabinet, not to mention clean up the look of the shop.
> 
> #2. Pull the miter saw station. Pop the joints apart, Redesign cabinet to be 1.5" shorter to accomodate for block and leveling feet for the cabinet. Obtain or create clamping squares, and glue / clamp and screw this thing back together, SQUARE this time. Level it and verify square upon installation. Complete the drawers. Populate the drawers with table saw, and router accessories.
> 
> #3. Finalize design for drill press mobile base with removable cabinet. I am close, however I am having trouble with my HF mobile base. SERIOUSLY considering borrowing my BIL and his welder. I would think 1.25" x 1.25" L section steel would be as acceptable as hardwood for stretchers. At least box section steel would doubtlessly work. I can make the cuts I need, I just need it welded up… And of course cut and have welded on a braced platform to bolt the drill press to. I would like to add a second pair of the heavy levelers to the back as well, the floor slopes badly, and levelers would make this DP a LOT more enjoyable to use!. Once done, I would have to scrub it up with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. scuff it, prime, and paint the whole thing and let it cure. If ti will fit, cure it in the oven to bake the finish on. Then I can build the removable cabinet, Really just a box with dadoes and cut to fit plates so that I can have easy pull out access to my drill bit sets, drills, jigs etc, and one drawer for loose bits.
> 
> #4. Finalizes the design for, and build the base cabinet / ballast box for the lathe. Whatever I go with is going to need levelers with some serious reach, the floor slopes a LOT where the lathe is…
> 
> #5. Build a rolling sheet goods / cutoffs rack.
> 
> #6. Finish the design and build of the wide drum sander. I have opted for space reasons to limit the width of my drum to 24". I doubt I will ever try to use it to flatten a table top, so no big deal there…
> 
> #7. Build an improved base cabinet / mobile base for the table saw. Right now it is just ideas in my head, but it will undoubtedly be based on a welded steel base for rigidity. Probably have the whole thing set on a set of kick down wheels and levelers.
> 
> #8. Build a radically improved workbench. Tossing the ideas from the existing that I do not like (too light, top too thin, lack of useful storage, incorporating what I do. (Overall size, size of base, location and placement of bench dog holes etc…). I will likely be building the next base with 2×4s and joining it together with M&T. The top will be ripped from 2×10 SYP as well. For budget mostly, but also to prove it can be done. Not that it should, but that it can… I have a line up on some old inventory 2×10s from a friend's family barn, been in storage there probably longer than I have been alive. Most of the pieces are good and straight. The exchange would be to build a second bench, designed for automotive / implement work. (No bench dog holes, top mounted vise, wrap the top with Stainless Steel, they provide the SS and get it bent / welded at the corners…).
> 
> #9. Add a rolling clamp rack, either bought, or built, and plumb the compressed air system, including a 25 ft hose reel at the back of the shop, and a 50 footer at the front.
> 
> #10. Build a heavy duty shelf above the mechanics toolbox to house the small air compressor. This is to prep to eliminate the DC stand.
> 
> #11. Build a new 30 gallon steel trash can based Thien separator with 5" side inlet, and 5" outlet. Build side flip stand to orient impeller directly over separator for HF DC. Tie into existing duct work. This will place the DC on the floor, and eliminate several performance choking bends in the ductwork within the DC itself, and between the DC and the separator.
> 
> #12. Finish the design / build of the SCMS dust hood. At this point, the dust port of the SCMS just spews dust into the worthless bag, and in turn spews that everywhere. I need to fix that soonest possible.
> 
> At some point, hopefully soon I am hoping to pick up the Rockler router "State Park" stencil set. I am hoping to make a shop sign to go above the man-door to the house.


db,
That's a pretty healthy 'to-do' list, but then you have compiled your list by priorty so it should help you stay the course.
...and inbetween, life happens.

Work Safely and have Fun. =- Len


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Not much time, but some...*
> 
> Got the rough layer of mud sanded, found the low spots. Some were much larger than I had hoped. Reskimmed with fresh mud. The skimming was tight enough I doubt I will need to sand it at all…
> 
> Just need to wait for this to dry then slap primer / paint on it again, call it done.
> 
> Will probably get busy with the caulk gun tonight and get the door trim to wall gap closed up. Once this is said and done, paint the door trim, door, and wall, then we move the freezer in place.
> 
> The wall above the Reverse Osmosis tank was sanded smooth last night and it looks perfect. Just need to wipe it free of dust, and paint. Then I can find the studs again, mark it up, and mount that shelf, and install the brackets for the bins. Gonna be a squeeze but it will all fit. I have a second set of brackets I am planning on using over the first shelf and of course cut to match a shelf, that should provide ample light duty storage for the shop.
> 
> I have some mid term storage needs for the motor / shaft and pulleys for the drum sander project. No I haven't given up on that, Just needed the shop ready to get back on it… You will see blog posts about that SOON…
> 
> I am figuring once I get the ducting back in place, the remaining wall insulated and completed, and everything more or less functioning, I am thinking of handling the upgrades in the following order. Some of this is teeny tiny nee naw stuff, some is big stuff. All of it will keep my busy. And much of this will take place between non shop projects.
> 
> #1. Pull the library cabinet down, build and install second french cleat, attach firmly to the studs, and the cabinet. Create and install plywood doors for cabinet. Yes this is a design change, but one I want to do to protect the contents of the cabinet, not to mention clean up the look of the shop.
> 
> #2. Pull the miter saw station. Pop the joints apart, Redesign cabinet to be 1.5" shorter to accomodate for block and leveling feet for the cabinet. Obtain or create clamping squares, and glue / clamp and screw this thing back together, SQUARE this time. Level it and verify square upon installation. Complete the drawers. Populate the drawers with table saw, and router accessories.
> 
> #3. Finalize design for drill press mobile base with removable cabinet. I am close, however I am having trouble with my HF mobile base. SERIOUSLY considering borrowing my BIL and his welder. I would think 1.25" x 1.25" L section steel would be as acceptable as hardwood for stretchers. At least box section steel would doubtlessly work. I can make the cuts I need, I just need it welded up… And of course cut and have welded on a braced platform to bolt the drill press to. I would like to add a second pair of the heavy levelers to the back as well, the floor slopes badly, and levelers would make this DP a LOT more enjoyable to use!. Once done, I would have to scrub it up with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. scuff it, prime, and paint the whole thing and let it cure. If ti will fit, cure it in the oven to bake the finish on. Then I can build the removable cabinet, Really just a box with dadoes and cut to fit plates so that I can have easy pull out access to my drill bit sets, drills, jigs etc, and one drawer for loose bits.
> 
> #4. Finalizes the design for, and build the base cabinet / ballast box for the lathe. Whatever I go with is going to need levelers with some serious reach, the floor slopes a LOT where the lathe is…
> 
> #5. Build a rolling sheet goods / cutoffs rack.
> 
> #6. Finish the design and build of the wide drum sander. I have opted for space reasons to limit the width of my drum to 24". I doubt I will ever try to use it to flatten a table top, so no big deal there…
> 
> #7. Build an improved base cabinet / mobile base for the table saw. Right now it is just ideas in my head, but it will undoubtedly be based on a welded steel base for rigidity. Probably have the whole thing set on a set of kick down wheels and levelers.
> 
> #8. Build a radically improved workbench. Tossing the ideas from the existing that I do not like (too light, top too thin, lack of useful storage, incorporating what I do. (Overall size, size of base, location and placement of bench dog holes etc…). I will likely be building the next base with 2×4s and joining it together with M&T. The top will be ripped from 2×10 SYP as well. For budget mostly, but also to prove it can be done. Not that it should, but that it can… I have a line up on some old inventory 2×10s from a friend's family barn, been in storage there probably longer than I have been alive. Most of the pieces are good and straight. The exchange would be to build a second bench, designed for automotive / implement work. (No bench dog holes, top mounted vise, wrap the top with Stainless Steel, they provide the SS and get it bent / welded at the corners…).
> 
> #9. Add a rolling clamp rack, either bought, or built, and plumb the compressed air system, including a 25 ft hose reel at the back of the shop, and a 50 footer at the front.
> 
> #10. Build a heavy duty shelf above the mechanics toolbox to house the small air compressor. This is to prep to eliminate the DC stand.
> 
> #11. Build a new 30 gallon steel trash can based Thien separator with 5" side inlet, and 5" outlet. Build side flip stand to orient impeller directly over separator for HF DC. Tie into existing duct work. This will place the DC on the floor, and eliminate several performance choking bends in the ductwork within the DC itself, and between the DC and the separator.
> 
> #12. Finish the design / build of the SCMS dust hood. At this point, the dust port of the SCMS just spews dust into the worthless bag, and in turn spews that everywhere. I need to fix that soonest possible.
> 
> At some point, hopefully soon I am hoping to pick up the Rockler router "State Park" stencil set. I am hoping to make a shop sign to go above the man-door to the house.


It's a long term list… Possibly some of it pipe dream… God willing though it might just happen.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Not much time, but some...*
> 
> Got the rough layer of mud sanded, found the low spots. Some were much larger than I had hoped. Reskimmed with fresh mud. The skimming was tight enough I doubt I will need to sand it at all…
> 
> Just need to wait for this to dry then slap primer / paint on it again, call it done.
> 
> Will probably get busy with the caulk gun tonight and get the door trim to wall gap closed up. Once this is said and done, paint the door trim, door, and wall, then we move the freezer in place.
> 
> The wall above the Reverse Osmosis tank was sanded smooth last night and it looks perfect. Just need to wipe it free of dust, and paint. Then I can find the studs again, mark it up, and mount that shelf, and install the brackets for the bins. Gonna be a squeeze but it will all fit. I have a second set of brackets I am planning on using over the first shelf and of course cut to match a shelf, that should provide ample light duty storage for the shop.
> 
> I have some mid term storage needs for the motor / shaft and pulleys for the drum sander project. No I haven't given up on that, Just needed the shop ready to get back on it… You will see blog posts about that SOON…
> 
> I am figuring once I get the ducting back in place, the remaining wall insulated and completed, and everything more or less functioning, I am thinking of handling the upgrades in the following order. Some of this is teeny tiny nee naw stuff, some is big stuff. All of it will keep my busy. And much of this will take place between non shop projects.
> 
> #1. Pull the library cabinet down, build and install second french cleat, attach firmly to the studs, and the cabinet. Create and install plywood doors for cabinet. Yes this is a design change, but one I want to do to protect the contents of the cabinet, not to mention clean up the look of the shop.
> 
> #2. Pull the miter saw station. Pop the joints apart, Redesign cabinet to be 1.5" shorter to accomodate for block and leveling feet for the cabinet. Obtain or create clamping squares, and glue / clamp and screw this thing back together, SQUARE this time. Level it and verify square upon installation. Complete the drawers. Populate the drawers with table saw, and router accessories.
> 
> #3. Finalize design for drill press mobile base with removable cabinet. I am close, however I am having trouble with my HF mobile base. SERIOUSLY considering borrowing my BIL and his welder. I would think 1.25" x 1.25" L section steel would be as acceptable as hardwood for stretchers. At least box section steel would doubtlessly work. I can make the cuts I need, I just need it welded up… And of course cut and have welded on a braced platform to bolt the drill press to. I would like to add a second pair of the heavy levelers to the back as well, the floor slopes badly, and levelers would make this DP a LOT more enjoyable to use!. Once done, I would have to scrub it up with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. scuff it, prime, and paint the whole thing and let it cure. If ti will fit, cure it in the oven to bake the finish on. Then I can build the removable cabinet, Really just a box with dadoes and cut to fit plates so that I can have easy pull out access to my drill bit sets, drills, jigs etc, and one drawer for loose bits.
> 
> #4. Finalizes the design for, and build the base cabinet / ballast box for the lathe. Whatever I go with is going to need levelers with some serious reach, the floor slopes a LOT where the lathe is…
> 
> #5. Build a rolling sheet goods / cutoffs rack.
> 
> #6. Finish the design and build of the wide drum sander. I have opted for space reasons to limit the width of my drum to 24". I doubt I will ever try to use it to flatten a table top, so no big deal there…
> 
> #7. Build an improved base cabinet / mobile base for the table saw. Right now it is just ideas in my head, but it will undoubtedly be based on a welded steel base for rigidity. Probably have the whole thing set on a set of kick down wheels and levelers.
> 
> #8. Build a radically improved workbench. Tossing the ideas from the existing that I do not like (too light, top too thin, lack of useful storage, incorporating what I do. (Overall size, size of base, location and placement of bench dog holes etc…). I will likely be building the next base with 2×4s and joining it together with M&T. The top will be ripped from 2×10 SYP as well. For budget mostly, but also to prove it can be done. Not that it should, but that it can… I have a line up on some old inventory 2×10s from a friend's family barn, been in storage there probably longer than I have been alive. Most of the pieces are good and straight. The exchange would be to build a second bench, designed for automotive / implement work. (No bench dog holes, top mounted vise, wrap the top with Stainless Steel, they provide the SS and get it bent / welded at the corners…).
> 
> #9. Add a rolling clamp rack, either bought, or built, and plumb the compressed air system, including a 25 ft hose reel at the back of the shop, and a 50 footer at the front.
> 
> #10. Build a heavy duty shelf above the mechanics toolbox to house the small air compressor. This is to prep to eliminate the DC stand.
> 
> #11. Build a new 30 gallon steel trash can based Thien separator with 5" side inlet, and 5" outlet. Build side flip stand to orient impeller directly over separator for HF DC. Tie into existing duct work. This will place the DC on the floor, and eliminate several performance choking bends in the ductwork within the DC itself, and between the DC and the separator.
> 
> #12. Finish the design / build of the SCMS dust hood. At this point, the dust port of the SCMS just spews dust into the worthless bag, and in turn spews that everywhere. I need to fix that soonest possible.
> 
> At some point, hopefully soon I am hoping to pick up the Rockler router "State Park" stencil set. I am hoping to make a shop sign to go above the man-door to the house.


OK, I have some comments, but that is a big list. One thing to remember, is a 3/4" piece of plywood, or even two sandwiched together, might make that drill press base a lot more sturdy. Bolted or screwed to the base, they would provide major strength and rigidity. Probably just one thickness would be enough to keep it from flexing and torqueing. I have had good luck over the years using wood in combination with lighter steel structures to make them much more robust. I beefed up a scroll saw stand that way and it easily supports my bench top drill press…...a rather heavy and well constructed Delta item from many years ago.

By the way, I have a rather unusual memory for certain things, and I remember you dissuading me from buying a new drill press about 4 years ago. You were right, I still haven't needed anything better. Thank you. I have always enjoyed your conservative, common sense, and budget controlled approach to building a shop.

In La Conner I have an even lighter weight Shop Fox drill press. I don't know if that is going to work out as a good purchase or not. I was really looking for a duplicate of what I have here, but everything was either lighter, or too much drill for the small shop there. It was cheap, so I can donate or sell it if it proves to be inadequate.

With any luck, I will get some pictures taken this weekend and a project or two posted. I have been doing some things, but just have been too busy, or tired, to post.

Later…........


----------



## dbhost

*You never know what you might find when you clean up your shop!*

In the process of moving everything around, I have been taking junk out of boxes, out from behind cabinets etc… and generally speaking getting the shop clean and ready to use.

First off, as many of you know I am moving the big freezer into the shop as part of my deal to get a sub panel / circuits run into the shop. That means my wall mounted plastic bins needed to get moved. Some of them were already moved to near the clamp rack, the other bins were getting moved to between the water purifier tank, and the tool stacker. Well I wasn't going to mount up filthy bins to a nice, clean, newly painted wall was I? No! So it was time to empty them out, sort them, and wash the bins as best I could.

I have them mounted, although the wall directly above them needs to have some paint applied, it is generally speaking ready…










As you can see from the screws in the drywall, I have chosen to move the basic shelf one stud over to the right. It appears the stud behind the tank itself is, well… Oddly placed from the studs on either side. I remember some ioddities about the shape of the stud, like the inside there was part of the outside of the tree and it arcs in away from the drywall… So no biggie It would have been hard to use there anyway…

So anyway, while I was cleaning, certain items showed up…

From under the table saw extension wing I found my HF roller stands. The tripod parts of these stink, but the rollers seem okay so far…









A cheap Ace Hardware bullet level. I actually got this, and another even cheaper one when I worked at Ace during my college years…









3 Harbor Freight toggle clamps that I simply do not recall ever buying, a 1-1/16" 1/2" drive Husky shallow 12 point socket, and outlet wiring tester. Less clearly visible in the plastic bag behind is the eye bolt hardware kit from my Grizzly hanging air filter. I direct mounted instead, but would like to be able to chain hang this if I want to change up later on.









And last, but certainly not least, my Blue Point blow gun with rubber tip. I absolutely hate the Campbell Hausfeld unit I have but this one is a pure dream!









The comound should be dry by the time we get home tonight, and I applied it smoothly enough, chances are I shouldn't need to sand at all, so it will be double check, sand if needed, if not, get some paint right up on the two wall segments needing it. At that point, all that is left for me to do is finish cleaning off the TS and benches. Pick up the little bits of remaining trash / leftover recycleables, and get the DC ducting run again…


----------



## helluvawreck

dbhost said:


> *You never know what you might find when you clean up your shop!*
> 
> In the process of moving everything around, I have been taking junk out of boxes, out from behind cabinets etc… and generally speaking getting the shop clean and ready to use.
> 
> First off, as many of you know I am moving the big freezer into the shop as part of my deal to get a sub panel / circuits run into the shop. That means my wall mounted plastic bins needed to get moved. Some of them were already moved to near the clamp rack, the other bins were getting moved to between the water purifier tank, and the tool stacker. Well I wasn't going to mount up filthy bins to a nice, clean, newly painted wall was I? No! So it was time to empty them out, sort them, and wash the bins as best I could.
> 
> I have them mounted, although the wall directly above them needs to have some paint applied, it is generally speaking ready…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from the screws in the drywall, I have chosen to move the basic shelf one stud over to the right. It appears the stud behind the tank itself is, well… Oddly placed from the studs on either side. I remember some ioddities about the shape of the stud, like the inside there was part of the outside of the tree and it arcs in away from the drywall… So no biggie It would have been hard to use there anyway…
> 
> So anyway, while I was cleaning, certain items showed up…
> 
> From under the table saw extension wing I found my HF roller stands. The tripod parts of these stink, but the rollers seem okay so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cheap Ace Hardware bullet level. I actually got this, and another even cheaper one when I worked at Ace during my college years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Harbor Freight toggle clamps that I simply do not recall ever buying, a 1-1/16" 1/2" drive Husky shallow 12 point socket, and outlet wiring tester. Less clearly visible in the plastic bag behind is the eye bolt hardware kit from my Grizzly hanging air filter. I direct mounted instead, but would like to be able to chain hang this if I want to change up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, my Blue Point blow gun with rubber tip. I absolutely hate the Campbell Hausfeld unit I have but this one is a pure dream!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The comound should be dry by the time we get home tonight, and I applied it smoothly enough, chances are I shouldn't need to sand at all, so it will be double check, sand if needed, if not, get some paint right up on the two wall segments needing it. At that point, all that is left for me to do is finish cleaning off the TS and benches. Pick up the little bits of remaining trash / leftover recycleables, and get the DC ducting run again…


Ain't that the truth. Especially in my old plant shop.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *You never know what you might find when you clean up your shop!*
> 
> In the process of moving everything around, I have been taking junk out of boxes, out from behind cabinets etc… and generally speaking getting the shop clean and ready to use.
> 
> First off, as many of you know I am moving the big freezer into the shop as part of my deal to get a sub panel / circuits run into the shop. That means my wall mounted plastic bins needed to get moved. Some of them were already moved to near the clamp rack, the other bins were getting moved to between the water purifier tank, and the tool stacker. Well I wasn't going to mount up filthy bins to a nice, clean, newly painted wall was I? No! So it was time to empty them out, sort them, and wash the bins as best I could.
> 
> I have them mounted, although the wall directly above them needs to have some paint applied, it is generally speaking ready…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from the screws in the drywall, I have chosen to move the basic shelf one stud over to the right. It appears the stud behind the tank itself is, well… Oddly placed from the studs on either side. I remember some ioddities about the shape of the stud, like the inside there was part of the outside of the tree and it arcs in away from the drywall… So no biggie It would have been hard to use there anyway…
> 
> So anyway, while I was cleaning, certain items showed up…
> 
> From under the table saw extension wing I found my HF roller stands. The tripod parts of these stink, but the rollers seem okay so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cheap Ace Hardware bullet level. I actually got this, and another even cheaper one when I worked at Ace during my college years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Harbor Freight toggle clamps that I simply do not recall ever buying, a 1-1/16" 1/2" drive Husky shallow 12 point socket, and outlet wiring tester. Less clearly visible in the plastic bag behind is the eye bolt hardware kit from my Grizzly hanging air filter. I direct mounted instead, but would like to be able to chain hang this if I want to change up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, my Blue Point blow gun with rubber tip. I absolutely hate the Campbell Hausfeld unit I have but this one is a pure dream!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The comound should be dry by the time we get home tonight, and I applied it smoothly enough, chances are I shouldn't need to sand at all, so it will be double check, sand if needed, if not, get some paint right up on the two wall segments needing it. At that point, all that is left for me to do is finish cleaning off the TS and benches. Pick up the little bits of remaining trash / leftover recycleables, and get the DC ducting run again…


I was reading an article about molding heads for saws the other day, and then one of pictures clicked, and I said, "don't I have one of those?"

So went rummaging about in my RAS cabinet, and after cleaning up all the dust, throwing a few things out, I found the plastic box for it, and then in a cardboard box I found the head with its assortment of blades. I had given up using the RAS in a rip position 20 years ago, and it never dawned on me that the molding head would work on the TS. So I cleaned it up, and it looks just like brand new. I think I used it once. A "new" tool from out of the dust and detritus!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *You never know what you might find when you clean up your shop!*
> 
> In the process of moving everything around, I have been taking junk out of boxes, out from behind cabinets etc… and generally speaking getting the shop clean and ready to use.
> 
> First off, as many of you know I am moving the big freezer into the shop as part of my deal to get a sub panel / circuits run into the shop. That means my wall mounted plastic bins needed to get moved. Some of them were already moved to near the clamp rack, the other bins were getting moved to between the water purifier tank, and the tool stacker. Well I wasn't going to mount up filthy bins to a nice, clean, newly painted wall was I? No! So it was time to empty them out, sort them, and wash the bins as best I could.
> 
> I have them mounted, although the wall directly above them needs to have some paint applied, it is generally speaking ready…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from the screws in the drywall, I have chosen to move the basic shelf one stud over to the right. It appears the stud behind the tank itself is, well… Oddly placed from the studs on either side. I remember some ioddities about the shape of the stud, like the inside there was part of the outside of the tree and it arcs in away from the drywall… So no biggie It would have been hard to use there anyway…
> 
> So anyway, while I was cleaning, certain items showed up…
> 
> From under the table saw extension wing I found my HF roller stands. The tripod parts of these stink, but the rollers seem okay so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cheap Ace Hardware bullet level. I actually got this, and another even cheaper one when I worked at Ace during my college years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Harbor Freight toggle clamps that I simply do not recall ever buying, a 1-1/16" 1/2" drive Husky shallow 12 point socket, and outlet wiring tester. Less clearly visible in the plastic bag behind is the eye bolt hardware kit from my Grizzly hanging air filter. I direct mounted instead, but would like to be able to chain hang this if I want to change up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, my Blue Point blow gun with rubber tip. I absolutely hate the Campbell Hausfeld unit I have but this one is a pure dream!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The comound should be dry by the time we get home tonight, and I applied it smoothly enough, chances are I shouldn't need to sand at all, so it will be double check, sand if needed, if not, get some paint right up on the two wall segments needing it. At that point, all that is left for me to do is finish cleaning off the TS and benches. Pick up the little bits of remaining trash / leftover recycleables, and get the DC ducting run again…


Score!

I think I have given up on the stamped steel flimsy shelf brackets for a couple of reasons. I picked up a pair of 30" standards while I was at lunch, as well as the shelf brackets I need. I will set my screws in place and fill any un needed holes before turning to cleanup in the shop. I should be able to finish the initial cleanup this evening. However I ended up with a stack of plastic totes I need to organize and get out of the shop. Mostly electrical parts needed infrequently that I can stash in the attic.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *You never know what you might find when you clean up your shop!*
> 
> In the process of moving everything around, I have been taking junk out of boxes, out from behind cabinets etc… and generally speaking getting the shop clean and ready to use.
> 
> First off, as many of you know I am moving the big freezer into the shop as part of my deal to get a sub panel / circuits run into the shop. That means my wall mounted plastic bins needed to get moved. Some of them were already moved to near the clamp rack, the other bins were getting moved to between the water purifier tank, and the tool stacker. Well I wasn't going to mount up filthy bins to a nice, clean, newly painted wall was I? No! So it was time to empty them out, sort them, and wash the bins as best I could.
> 
> I have them mounted, although the wall directly above them needs to have some paint applied, it is generally speaking ready…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from the screws in the drywall, I have chosen to move the basic shelf one stud over to the right. It appears the stud behind the tank itself is, well… Oddly placed from the studs on either side. I remember some ioddities about the shape of the stud, like the inside there was part of the outside of the tree and it arcs in away from the drywall… So no biggie It would have been hard to use there anyway…
> 
> So anyway, while I was cleaning, certain items showed up…
> 
> From under the table saw extension wing I found my HF roller stands. The tripod parts of these stink, but the rollers seem okay so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cheap Ace Hardware bullet level. I actually got this, and another even cheaper one when I worked at Ace during my college years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Harbor Freight toggle clamps that I simply do not recall ever buying, a 1-1/16" 1/2" drive Husky shallow 12 point socket, and outlet wiring tester. Less clearly visible in the plastic bag behind is the eye bolt hardware kit from my Grizzly hanging air filter. I direct mounted instead, but would like to be able to chain hang this if I want to change up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, my Blue Point blow gun with rubber tip. I absolutely hate the Campbell Hausfeld unit I have but this one is a pure dream!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The comound should be dry by the time we get home tonight, and I applied it smoothly enough, chances are I shouldn't need to sand at all, so it will be double check, sand if needed, if not, get some paint right up on the two wall segments needing it. At that point, all that is left for me to do is finish cleaning off the TS and benches. Pick up the little bits of remaining trash / leftover recycleables, and get the DC ducting run again…


Sounds great. Hope it all comes together….........

It will be nice having your shop back again, and a much better shop at that…......


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *You never know what you might find when you clean up your shop!*
> 
> In the process of moving everything around, I have been taking junk out of boxes, out from behind cabinets etc… and generally speaking getting the shop clean and ready to use.
> 
> First off, as many of you know I am moving the big freezer into the shop as part of my deal to get a sub panel / circuits run into the shop. That means my wall mounted plastic bins needed to get moved. Some of them were already moved to near the clamp rack, the other bins were getting moved to between the water purifier tank, and the tool stacker. Well I wasn't going to mount up filthy bins to a nice, clean, newly painted wall was I? No! So it was time to empty them out, sort them, and wash the bins as best I could.
> 
> I have them mounted, although the wall directly above them needs to have some paint applied, it is generally speaking ready…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from the screws in the drywall, I have chosen to move the basic shelf one stud over to the right. It appears the stud behind the tank itself is, well… Oddly placed from the studs on either side. I remember some ioddities about the shape of the stud, like the inside there was part of the outside of the tree and it arcs in away from the drywall… So no biggie It would have been hard to use there anyway…
> 
> So anyway, while I was cleaning, certain items showed up…
> 
> From under the table saw extension wing I found my HF roller stands. The tripod parts of these stink, but the rollers seem okay so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cheap Ace Hardware bullet level. I actually got this, and another even cheaper one when I worked at Ace during my college years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Harbor Freight toggle clamps that I simply do not recall ever buying, a 1-1/16" 1/2" drive Husky shallow 12 point socket, and outlet wiring tester. Less clearly visible in the plastic bag behind is the eye bolt hardware kit from my Grizzly hanging air filter. I direct mounted instead, but would like to be able to chain hang this if I want to change up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, my Blue Point blow gun with rubber tip. I absolutely hate the Campbell Hausfeld unit I have but this one is a pure dream!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The comound should be dry by the time we get home tonight, and I applied it smoothly enough, chances are I shouldn't need to sand at all, so it will be double check, sand if needed, if not, get some paint right up on the two wall segments needing it. At that point, all that is left for me to do is finish cleaning off the TS and benches. Pick up the little bits of remaining trash / leftover recycleables, and get the DC ducting run again…


FWIW, due to the ongoing issues here, and elsewhere with various forum rules, I am going to phase out my LJ shop tour in favor of placing it in a blogspot blog…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/

I will still be posting here, but common stuff that goes to all the WW forums I am on will go there. I have a couple of specific forums that don't want links to other forums causing problems…


----------



## dbhost

*Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*

Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


I kept on visualizing the ladder being hung high on a wall, next to the ceiling. Now I understand, and that is just a great solution!

Yesterday I had to do something different. I just needed a complete release. I had worked some in the morning, home alone, so I had to bust my butt to get Kermit up, his cage cleaned and watered, and get to the operating room by 0730 hrs, where I did a csection. Made rounds, and then came home.

So I rummaged through some old boxes of CD's to find some of my old favorite classical and New Age things. I built the skeleton of a CD holder, and put them in it. (that is a mistake, of course, because I will probably never get back to it to finish it, so it will exist in a half done state forever). The CD holder sits on the back of my old kitchen cabinets in the shop, that I installed back in 1985. Those cabinets hold a lot of miscellaneous hardware, electronics, and store some small power tools. I eventually plumbed in a sink with hot and cold water, and set up a first class soldering station complete with magnifying light. The counter top holds my Worksharp, Dremel, a tool tote, the stereo system, wireless phone etc. I recently totally revamped the wiring there.

The most unusual item on the counter, is my original fluorescent desk lamp for college, purchased new 55 years ago. Quality item, my Dad ordered it from a supply house through the place he worked, so I paid wholesale. How is it still using its original bulbs? I studied with that through college and medical school. I built my first tube hi-fi system from Dynakits using that lamp, and (I used that amplifier and a separate tuner for about 10 years, with some AR-4 speakers). Now tell me what they did different back then to keep a lamp, and its bulbs, working for 54 years. I repeat, still the original bulbs! I suspect it is the large ballast and conservatively run tubes. That has made the difference. No starter on that lamp, you hold the button down till it comes on.

There is a real down side to our economy based on the proposition of throwaway stuff.

As I was building that CD holder, without plans, just a design based on happenstance, I noted how fast the plywood soaked up the glue. On one shelf, the fist one, I had to apply glue to both sides three times before I was done getting the joint set right. I was being stupid and use a short cut that cost about 20 minutes of fooling around, that would have taken me two minutes if I had done it right and set it up using my multipurpose bench with all its clamping abilities. It was a little cluttered with the TS dust control stuff, and I didn't want to put those things away. FWW was right about the main problem with glue joints. They can easily be starved for enough glue due to the glue soaking in, and not being distributed right……

Later…………


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


Interesting thing that you mention about the throwaway culture. I actually got interested in woodworking again (Loved it as a kid, never thought i would have my own shop though…) because I priced up quality furniture, as compared the the junk that most places sell, and decided I could build that for less money than the junk, and have something my kids and grandkids could be proud of…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


Oh, FWIW, I posted another one. My big ladder, paint, etc… are done, and i found more stuff…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/ladders-hung-shelving-installed-paint.html


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


I was thinking you are right about glue joints starved for glue in plywood. ..


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


Finding a workbench and a TS in your shop, is a nice find…..........(-:

I continued to do lots of nothing yesterday in the shop. I got the old self-powered subwoofer going. It has a hum, and was discarded an number of years ago, not a very expensive item. But I realized that if I put in one of the cabinets under the old counter, I wouldn't hear the hum, because all the fluorescents hum in the shop anyway, at least part of the time. Sure enough, put it in the cabinet faced it away from the door (deep bass is non-directional), and the hum became inaudible. Then I neatly drilled some holes in the door to let the sound out. That made a big difference in the sound. Then I removed a pretty good small Memorex speaker that I was using for a center speaker, and substituted a discarded Polk center speaker. Again a big difference. I had to build a stand for it to go on the wall, which I did, and lag screwed the stand into a stud.

That brought me to 1430, kickoff time for the super bowl here in Alaska. My bird Kermit and I watched the game and gloated over the Seahawk dominance. Generally, most Alaskans are Seahawk fans for obvious reasons. It is the closest team, and we tend to get to Washington frequently, and I have a vacation home in Washington close to Seattle. I have this wonderful leather covered chair and foot stool that Sherie got me about 12 years ago as a gift. I stretch out, put one knee up, that is where Kermit likes to perch, and watched the game. Kermit just like to be in the middle of things.

Later…...................


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


Sort of like Oregonians tend to be Seahawks fans… Mostly due to proximity…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Some progress and a failed idea fixed!*
> 
> Sorry to keep this so short here. I posted it to my Blogger account instead. Long story to save me some typing I put it in a universal repository… Got the ladder issue worked though. Thought you might want to take a peek…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/not-much-shop-time-and-failed-idea.html


Well, my problem is that I don't watch sports very often anymore. But the fever in Seattle, was infectious I guess, because most Anchorage fans had it too. And since I was home alone, why not. I actually watched a lot of football when I was younger, but then lost interest when it was difficult to do, because of proximity or the intensity of the training years. But now and then, I take in a game. Kermit enjoyed it at least as much as I did….....(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Ladders stored, paint, shelves done, and a mess of cleaning!*

I got quite a bit done over the weekend. Created new tight to the ceiling storage for the 6' ladder, crammed the 10' ladder between the garage doors, finished smoothing and painted the 2 areas of wall I was working on, installed shelf standards and brackets above more or less the reverse osmosis system tank, cleaned up the bench, got the Ridgid sander back on the tool stacker. That poor thing is at full capacity now, and even had to take the belt off the ridgid sander to make it fit. I also cleaned off the table saw, mortiser / miter saw sstation and finished opening up the wall between the doors so that I can get the expanding foam insullation in there.

I am now at the point where I need to start stashing non shop stuff up in the attic as it is taking up valuable space in my shop.

For pics, and a more detailed perspective, you can always check out my Blogger blog on the subject…
http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/ladders-hung-shelving-installed-paint.html


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Ladders stored, paint, shelves done, and a mess of cleaning!*
> 
> I got quite a bit done over the weekend. Created new tight to the ceiling storage for the 6' ladder, crammed the 10' ladder between the garage doors, finished smoothing and painted the 2 areas of wall I was working on, installed shelf standards and brackets above more or less the reverse osmosis system tank, cleaned up the bench, got the Ridgid sander back on the tool stacker. That poor thing is at full capacity now, and even had to take the belt off the ridgid sander to make it fit. I also cleaned off the table saw, mortiser / miter saw sstation and finished opening up the wall between the doors so that I can get the expanding foam insullation in there.
> 
> I am now at the point where I need to start stashing non shop stuff up in the attic as it is taking up valuable space in my shop.
> 
> For pics, and a more detailed perspective, you can always check out my Blogger blog on the subject…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/ladders-hung-shelving-installed-paint.html


db, 
Looks like you had a busy weekend, did you even stop for lunch? 

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Ladders stored, paint, shelves done, and a mess of cleaning!*
> 
> I got quite a bit done over the weekend. Created new tight to the ceiling storage for the 6' ladder, crammed the 10' ladder between the garage doors, finished smoothing and painted the 2 areas of wall I was working on, installed shelf standards and brackets above more or less the reverse osmosis system tank, cleaned up the bench, got the Ridgid sander back on the tool stacker. That poor thing is at full capacity now, and even had to take the belt off the ridgid sander to make it fit. I also cleaned off the table saw, mortiser / miter saw sstation and finished opening up the wall between the doors so that I can get the expanding foam insullation in there.
> 
> I am now at the point where I need to start stashing non shop stuff up in the attic as it is taking up valuable space in my shop.
> 
> For pics, and a more detailed perspective, you can always check out my Blogger blog on the subject…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/ladders-hung-shelving-installed-paint.html


Sure did. Olive Garden Zuppa Toscana to be exact!

Yeah I am busy these days, but I am making a LOT of headway, both in the shop, and in the house… I was originally planning on getting my truck done, but still don't have access to a lift. I might have to just spring for a tall reach floor jack with a transmission cradle to pull the dumb thing… My BIL is taking forever to free up his lift… Not sure how me makes $$ keeping that thing tied up with one vehicle…


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Ladders stored, paint, shelves done, and a mess of cleaning!*
> 
> I got quite a bit done over the weekend. Created new tight to the ceiling storage for the 6' ladder, crammed the 10' ladder between the garage doors, finished smoothing and painted the 2 areas of wall I was working on, installed shelf standards and brackets above more or less the reverse osmosis system tank, cleaned up the bench, got the Ridgid sander back on the tool stacker. That poor thing is at full capacity now, and even had to take the belt off the ridgid sander to make it fit. I also cleaned off the table saw, mortiser / miter saw sstation and finished opening up the wall between the doors so that I can get the expanding foam insullation in there.
> 
> I am now at the point where I need to start stashing non shop stuff up in the attic as it is taking up valuable space in my shop.
> 
> For pics, and a more detailed perspective, you can always check out my Blogger blog on the subject…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/ladders-hung-shelving-installed-paint.html


I should mention, tonight is NOT going to be a shop night. Monday is being scheduled for workout at the gym, study for yet more certifications, and work on an in the house project. In this case, I am troubleshooting the last few Christmas tree light strands before either making them bulb donors, putting them up, or throwing them out…

Once done with that, and it all gets out of the way, I move the few remainders out of the dining room, paint a second coat on the wall where the paint was thin, and touch up under the breakfast bar prior to moving the dining room furnishings back in and calling that room done…

I need to finish cleaning up the thinset on the concrete, patching the cracks, and getting ready to install the wood flooring. I have been doing some reading on a method for applying wood plank flooring with a rubberized adhesive mastic that sounds like it is just the ticket for my project! I am anxious to get the living room done. Too bad it isn't done already, it would have been nice to be able to use the fireplace during the ice storm last week! We had time alone at home with cold weather, could have been nice to snuggle up by the fireplace with some hot chocolate… Assuming the dog / cat will leave us alone that is…


----------



## dbhost

*Making more progress on the shop. Made it a mess again... *

I made some headway this weekend in the shop. I got the dust collection ducting installed. I went a bit OCD on it so it took me a while to get installed correctly, but it is where it needs to be!

I got the table saw fixed, and verified. So now that I am confident in my saw again, I put the access cover back on the housing, bolted everything back up, and reinstalled the extension wing for the saw. It is all tight, and level now… Ready to go…

And last, but certainly not least, I got the short wall piece between the doors insulated with that expanding foam insulation. A couple of items I noticed about the expanding foam. The DIY packs they sell of that stuff empty out WAY too fast! but it does expand really nicely… I bet if I redid all of my insulation with this stuff my house would float away in a flood!

Anyway, for more detail, and photos, like always you can see my blog http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/busy-weekend-working-on-table-saw-wall.html


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Making more progress on the shop. Made it a mess again... *
> 
> I made some headway this weekend in the shop. I got the dust collection ducting installed. I went a bit OCD on it so it took me a while to get installed correctly, but it is where it needs to be!
> 
> I got the table saw fixed, and verified. So now that I am confident in my saw again, I put the access cover back on the housing, bolted everything back up, and reinstalled the extension wing for the saw. It is all tight, and level now… Ready to go…
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, I got the short wall piece between the doors insulated with that expanding foam insulation. A couple of items I noticed about the expanding foam. The DIY packs they sell of that stuff empty out WAY too fast! but it does expand really nicely… I bet if I redid all of my insulation with this stuff my house would float away in a flood!
> 
> Anyway, for more detail, and photos, like always you can see my blog http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/busy-weekend-working-on-table-saw-wall.html


I used that foam once, but I can't even remember the time and place. Our master bedroom addition was done with urethane foam throughout. Didn't get a huge amount done yesterday in the shop, but did complete most of a jig to make thin strip ripping faster. I got it from Shop Notes. It is fairly close to their design, but used what I had on hand, different size bearing, knob, and oak instead of hardboard for the guide strips. It will be another in a growing list of things to post.

Today is going to be busy with two inductions. Off to the races….......................


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Making more progress on the shop. Made it a mess again... *
> 
> I made some headway this weekend in the shop. I got the dust collection ducting installed. I went a bit OCD on it so it took me a while to get installed correctly, but it is where it needs to be!
> 
> I got the table saw fixed, and verified. So now that I am confident in my saw again, I put the access cover back on the housing, bolted everything back up, and reinstalled the extension wing for the saw. It is all tight, and level now… Ready to go…
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, I got the short wall piece between the doors insulated with that expanding foam insulation. A couple of items I noticed about the expanding foam. The DIY packs they sell of that stuff empty out WAY too fast! but it does expand really nicely… I bet if I redid all of my insulation with this stuff my house would float away in a flood!
> 
> Anyway, for more detail, and photos, like always you can see my blog http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/busy-weekend-working-on-table-saw-wall.html


I am looking forward to my next steps. LOML is insisting I make the dust hood and connections for the miter saw. She wants the freezer out there and wants it safe from sawdust…

Who am I to argue right?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Making more progress on the shop. Made it a mess again... *
> 
> I made some headway this weekend in the shop. I got the dust collection ducting installed. I went a bit OCD on it so it took me a while to get installed correctly, but it is where it needs to be!
> 
> I got the table saw fixed, and verified. So now that I am confident in my saw again, I put the access cover back on the housing, bolted everything back up, and reinstalled the extension wing for the saw. It is all tight, and level now… Ready to go…
> 
> And last, but certainly not least, I got the short wall piece between the doors insulated with that expanding foam insulation. A couple of items I noticed about the expanding foam. The DIY packs they sell of that stuff empty out WAY too fast! but it does expand really nicely… I bet if I redid all of my insulation with this stuff my house would float away in a flood!
> 
> Anyway, for more detail, and photos, like always you can see my blog http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/busy-weekend-working-on-table-saw-wall.html


The miter saw in La Conner definitely sprays a lot of sawdust, even when connected to its dust collector. I am afraid at some point I will have to get a real DC like I have here in Anchorage. The Delta has thoroughly spoiled me. And I think a hood is the only answer. With the RAS, my dust control is quite amazing now, but it is predicated on the saw doing 90 degree crosscuts. I need to build a couple of simple jigs for it to cut angled stuff, and perhaps the dust collection will continue to be good.

It is nice when our wives demand we do more things in and to our shop…..............(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Quick and dirty 20 minutes in the shop. More drywall up!*

I know it isn't much, but I have some more of the drywall up, the big part from the halfway point to the door brackets. It allowed me to close up the gap allowing cold air to blow in around the studs. I caulked that up, installed the drywall and patched a mistake. I have a couple areas to clean up / install maybe tonight and I am good to go!

The tough part is going to be the bottom around the AC ducts. I can get it done, but it will take some creativity.

This weekend most likely, I will be starting on the miter saw dust hood, so I have lots on my plate right now. The good thing is I am clearing a lot of it out too!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Quick and dirty 20 minutes in the shop. More drywall up!*
> 
> I know it isn't much, but I have some more of the drywall up, the big part from the halfway point to the door brackets. It allowed me to close up the gap allowing cold air to blow in around the studs. I caulked that up, installed the drywall and patched a mistake. I have a couple areas to clean up / install maybe tonight and I am good to go!
> 
> The tough part is going to be the bottom around the AC ducts. I can get it done, but it will take some creativity.
> 
> This weekend most likely, I will be starting on the miter saw dust hood, so I have lots on my plate right now. The good thing is I am clearing a lot of it out too!


The miter saw hood ought to be interesting. That is something I never had to consider before, but I will have to do something in La Conner…..........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Quick and dirty 20 minutes in the shop. More drywall up!*
> 
> I know it isn't much, but I have some more of the drywall up, the big part from the halfway point to the door brackets. It allowed me to close up the gap allowing cold air to blow in around the studs. I caulked that up, installed the drywall and patched a mistake. I have a couple areas to clean up / install maybe tonight and I am good to go!
> 
> The tough part is going to be the bottom around the AC ducts. I can get it done, but it will take some creativity.
> 
> This weekend most likely, I will be starting on the miter saw dust hood, so I have lots on my plate right now. The good thing is I am clearing a lot of it out too!


It is going to be pretty simple. Open plywood frame on back, and sides, bottom will be the bench top, and top is just a piece of 1/2" ply. I will be attaching a piece of 1/8" acrylic that will be used to make the curved back piece, attached to a center upright in the back and the front uprights on the sides…

The OE port from the saw will be plumbed with regular 1.25" shop vac hose that will just be dropped down the 4" port. I am thinking the Ridgid hose from Home Depot is plenty flexible and won't resist the travel of the saw too badly. Probably get something like that, or similar..

The acrylic will be sealed top and bottom to the plywood using clear silicone caulk

The frame is going to be assembled using pocket screws. Although I had considered a mortise and tenon, I figure why bother with plywood?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Quick and dirty 20 minutes in the shop. More drywall up!*
> 
> I know it isn't much, but I have some more of the drywall up, the big part from the halfway point to the door brackets. It allowed me to close up the gap allowing cold air to blow in around the studs. I caulked that up, installed the drywall and patched a mistake. I have a couple areas to clean up / install maybe tonight and I am good to go!
> 
> The tough part is going to be the bottom around the AC ducts. I can get it done, but it will take some creativity.
> 
> This weekend most likely, I will be starting on the miter saw dust hood, so I have lots on my plate right now. The good thing is I am clearing a lot of it out too!


I will definitely like to see how that works. My experience with the miter saw in La Conner is that it throws a bunch of sawdust out the back in spite of the direct connection. My thought, since you have a more robust DC than I do in La Conner, Is that you might split the connection with part of it going to the saw directly, and some to the back of the hood, where ever the sawdust seems to go. I use a splitter for my drill press here so that it sucks from under and on top as well. I used a small ply wood box to do all the connections.

Here is an interesting test….....take off the DC from the OE port and see where the sawdust is exiting. I found out from a post on LJ's that the port on the RAS essentially had no sawdust coming through it! I tested it…...sure enough. So I blocked that hole and pull all the sawdust from the RAS table level right around the blade, with a shroud that comes right out to the fence. That did it.

So if you haven't tested your saw, test before you build…............


----------



## dbhost

*Narrow wall drywall patching, and dust collection update...*

I didn't get a mess of time in the shop last night, but I got the upper portion of the narrow wall patched, and in the first coat of mud. Wait on that to dry…

I then moved on to cleaning up caulk from an old blast gate, and set up / dry fitted a DC riser setup for the band saw. I hate how low the blast gate is sitting!

I spent a bit of time cleaning, as well as honing the design work for this weekend's projects. I am inching closer and closer to done…

If you want to read the whole story, check it out on my blog...


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Narrow wall drywall patching, and dust collection update...*
> 
> I didn't get a mess of time in the shop last night, but I got the upper portion of the narrow wall patched, and in the first coat of mud. Wait on that to dry…
> 
> I then moved on to cleaning up caulk from an old blast gate, and set up / dry fitted a DC riser setup for the band saw. I hate how low the blast gate is sitting!
> 
> I spent a bit of time cleaning, as well as honing the design work for this weekend's projects. I am inching closer and closer to done…
> 
> If you want to read the whole story, check it out on my blog...


...and the light at the end of the tunnel is bright Green, full speed ahead.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## DocSavage45

dbhost said:


> *Narrow wall drywall patching, and dust collection update...*
> 
> I didn't get a mess of time in the shop last night, but I got the upper portion of the narrow wall patched, and in the first coat of mud. Wait on that to dry…
> 
> I then moved on to cleaning up caulk from an old blast gate, and set up / dry fitted a DC riser setup for the band saw. I hate how low the blast gate is sitting!
> 
> I spent a bit of time cleaning, as well as honing the design work for this weekend's projects. I am inching closer and closer to done…
> 
> If you want to read the whole story, check it out on my blog...


I hate cleaning! But I recognize saftey.

Waiting for it to get warmer before I install my dust collection hoses.

A little at a time gets the job done?


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Narrow wall drywall patching, and dust collection update...*
> 
> I didn't get a mess of time in the shop last night, but I got the upper portion of the narrow wall patched, and in the first coat of mud. Wait on that to dry…
> 
> I then moved on to cleaning up caulk from an old blast gate, and set up / dry fitted a DC riser setup for the band saw. I hate how low the blast gate is sitting!
> 
> I spent a bit of time cleaning, as well as honing the design work for this weekend's projects. I am inching closer and closer to done…
> 
> If you want to read the whole story, check it out on my blog...


DocSavage45.

The good thing about my shop, and a HUGE cause of all of this work is the addition of power, and insulation to the shop. Meaning I can turn on my little radiator, walk out, come back in an hour after having dinner and the shop is 72 degrees when it is 30 degrees outside… And the best part has yet to come. Summer with the AC should be a joy!


----------



## DocSavage45

dbhost said:


> *Narrow wall drywall patching, and dust collection update...*
> 
> I didn't get a mess of time in the shop last night, but I got the upper portion of the narrow wall patched, and in the first coat of mud. Wait on that to dry…
> 
> I then moved on to cleaning up caulk from an old blast gate, and set up / dry fitted a DC riser setup for the band saw. I hate how low the blast gate is sitting!
> 
> I spent a bit of time cleaning, as well as honing the design work for this weekend's projects. I am inching closer and closer to done…
> 
> If you want to read the whole story, check it out on my blog...


My old window AC is too small for my space….BOOO It doesn't blow cold enough. I did install by my self/w licensed heating contractor supervision.

Gotto go make a couple bucks.


----------



## dbhost

*Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*

For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html

I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!

I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!

I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


----------



## hoosier0311

dbhost said:


> *Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*
> 
> For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html
> 
> I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!
> 
> I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!
> 
> I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


If I had a nickel for every dumb #$$ move I made, I could make a mortgage payment,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or 6. Makes me feel better to know I'm not alone in my dingbattery. : )


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*
> 
> For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html
> 
> I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!
> 
> I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!
> 
> I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


I learned a long time ago to not shy away from my mistakes. They are what help me learn and move on, but this was just, well I don't know. I have a sneaking suspicion that I should not have been using power tools… I just don't think my brain was fully engaged…


----------



## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*
> 
> For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html
> 
> I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!
> 
> I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!
> 
> I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


Well it seemed right at the time.

...been there, done that, ...got the short legged chair to prove it. ;-)

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*
> 
> For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html
> 
> I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!
> 
> I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!
> 
> I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


Due to limited materials (my truck is broke, so I can't get fresh sheet goods yet…) I figure I will…

#1. Extend the top using scrap ply segments cut to width, left a little long on each side, aligned with the sides to be trimmed in the middle. Make the connection with either biscuits and glue, or pocket screws. I have lots of both… 
#2. Hope like crazy the glue got sucked up into the wood instead of holding the joint so I can disassemble the joints at the side frames. If I have to, I will cut the back free of the side frames with my flush trim saw, and just start over again on the side frames. The other option is to simply extend the side frames with biscuit or screwed extension pieces. Perhaps braced, That would likely be the easiest route, and I want this done yesterday pretty much…
#3. Trim out the arc on the top extensions. 
#4. Remove the silicone caulk sealing the curved panel to the top, remove the curved panel, and attach a new curved panel to the newly extended dust hood.
#5. Reinstall, continue with project as originally planned…

In my mockups, I found the height I picked was just about ideal, enough room for the hose to clear, not so much room to make the collector capacity ineffective…

If this works at least as well as the cardboard / duct tape and flex hose mockup did, then this will be a winner for my shop!

The nice thing is that I have a gap between the top and the bottom of my library cabinet, I hadn't planned it orignially this way, but this would make at least a passable storage area for a few oddly sized pieces that have no home. My framing nailer leaps to mind!


----------



## hyoung

dbhost said:


> *Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*
> 
> For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html
> 
> I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!
> 
> I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!
> 
> I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


Duct tape, and tell everyone it is for a flexible installation. Working on the exact same issue.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Made a stupid mistake building my miter saw dust hood...*
> 
> For the quick link to the long version of the story, here go you…
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/finding-design-flaws-in-my-miter-saw.html
> 
> I ended up with a forehead slapping stupid mistake this weekend. I had the measurements correct on paper, and I KNEW what it was supposed to be. I was LOOKING at them just prior to setting up my stops, and went ahead and set the stops wrong, and built the whole shebang wrong anyway!
> 
> I measured heck, 3 or 4 times, I just deserve a what were you thinking you moron moment!
> 
> I need to re-measure, but I think it needed to be 20 or 24" deep. Somehow I managed to build it 16… Dummy


The prevention of errors in creating new objects, be they furniture, jigs or shop fixtures, is always the major factor slowing me down in the shop. If possible, I like to do a SU plan if the item is complex, and it has a simple interface with its intended surroundings (call that interface), such as a sled and the TS top. For very simple objects with a simple interface, most of us don't bother with plans and that includes me.

Speaking primarily about shop stuff, which as you are aware is my only expertise…......(-:

The most difficult thing to build is a complex object with a complex interface. Just what you would expect. But there are different levels of difficulty there, also.

My current bugaboo that is coming together slowly, is the combined outfeed table and dust control box for the TS. The interface there is so complex, that I haven't been able to get my head around making a plan. So I move excruciating slow. If I had realized the time this would take, I would have shed a few tears, and retired my 24 year old Delta Contractor's saw, and bought a new saw with the requisite gizmos. However, being new at doing woodworking as a hobby, I just kept on hot rodding that saw and getting add ons for it, as each new requirement occurred. Now, I really don't want a new saw because it functions flawlessly, and is very accurate and easy to use. I have made some pretty interesting items to control air flow on the saw, and I look forward to posting it. But I won't recommend anyone else do it!

Adding a vise to my multi-purpose bench was a perfect example of a complex object with a complex interface, but one that was amenable to doing a SU plan.

Vise blog

It's the things that move, such as the motor on my contractor's saw that really create complexity. And I want to be able to detach the outfeed table easily for cleaning, repairs, adjustments, etc.

But it is getting close. I took some time off the project recently to make a jig for cutting long thin strips, and it is nearly done. I pretty much have figured out everything, but I never made a plan, except for an item or two to control air flow.

I am not sure where your miter saw project belongs in my categorization of projects, but I suspect it is a complex object with a complex interface. If it were of the right sort, a Sketchup plan may have been worth the effort. But that takes time, and you have been short of time lately. I could make some Monday quarterbacking suggestions, but I bet you have it all figured out now. I think the lesson I have learned in all this analysis is that you better make a plan for anything that is complex, and amenable to it. If it is a complex object with a complex, interface…......and is too difficult to make a plan…....then figure out a different way to do things, or abandon the project.

If I had been as wise as I am now, I would have probably abandoned my project, and bought a new TS.

Your project would probably have been amenable to a plan. But you didn't have much time and you winged it. I do the same thing at times. But that is when we make our biggest mistakes, I suspect.

I always say that wisdom is the product of getting old and having made more mistakes than the next guy, and hopefully learning from them.

Have a nice day, off to work….......

Your friendly Monday morning quarterback at home in Seward's icebox…......(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Fixing mistakes, filling in the blanks..*

I got started with fixing the miter saw dust hood measurement mistakes. I don't use it often, but when I do, I frequently wonder why biscuit joiners get such a bad rap on the forums… They really do help me out around the shop!

I also had to back fill my hex shank quick change drill bit sets for a couple of the smaller sizes that break easily. I wasn't quite able to get an exact match but close enough. I went from Ryobi Ti coated bits to DeWalt black oxides. Oh well, as fast as these small bits break, it's not like they are going to have a chance to get dull anyway!

Again, if you want more detail, or photos, check out my blogger post…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-to-correct-my-mistakes-and.html


----------



## Racer2007

dbhost said:


> *Fixing mistakes, filling in the blanks..*
> 
> I got started with fixing the miter saw dust hood measurement mistakes. I don't use it often, but when I do, I frequently wonder why biscuit joiners get such a bad rap on the forums… They really do help me out around the shop!
> 
> I also had to back fill my hex shank quick change drill bit sets for a couple of the smaller sizes that break easily. I wasn't quite able to get an exact match but close enough. I went from Ryobi Ti coated bits to DeWalt black oxides. Oh well, as fast as these small bits break, it's not like they are going to have a chance to get dull anyway!
> 
> Again, if you want more detail, or photos, check out my blogger post…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-to-correct-my-mistakes-and.html


Not sure how much you paid for your spare bits but I found these on the HD site today and it has the ones you said you need to replace the most.

Ryobi Hex Shank Pilot Titanium Drill Bit Set (4-Piece)
Model # AR1859
Store SKU # 652440
$4.97 / each


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Fixing mistakes, filling in the blanks..*
> 
> I got started with fixing the miter saw dust hood measurement mistakes. I don't use it often, but when I do, I frequently wonder why biscuit joiners get such a bad rap on the forums… They really do help me out around the shop!
> 
> I also had to back fill my hex shank quick change drill bit sets for a couple of the smaller sizes that break easily. I wasn't quite able to get an exact match but close enough. I went from Ryobi Ti coated bits to DeWalt black oxides. Oh well, as fast as these small bits break, it's not like they are going to have a chance to get dull anyway!
> 
> Again, if you want more detail, or photos, check out my blogger post…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-to-correct-my-mistakes-and.html


Those are pilot / countersinking bits. I have them. They have replaceable pilot bits. The regular drilling bits do not have replaceable inserts…


----------



## Racer2007

dbhost said:


> *Fixing mistakes, filling in the blanks..*
> 
> I got started with fixing the miter saw dust hood measurement mistakes. I don't use it often, but when I do, I frequently wonder why biscuit joiners get such a bad rap on the forums… They really do help me out around the shop!
> 
> I also had to back fill my hex shank quick change drill bit sets for a couple of the smaller sizes that break easily. I wasn't quite able to get an exact match but close enough. I went from Ryobi Ti coated bits to DeWalt black oxides. Oh well, as fast as these small bits break, it's not like they are going to have a chance to get dull anyway!
> 
> Again, if you want more detail, or photos, check out my blogger post…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-to-correct-my-mistakes-and.html


My Bad , I thought I had seen the regular bits somewhere that did have the replaceable bits but not sure where or who made them. I will have to try find them and let you know if I do.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Fixing mistakes, filling in the blanks..*
> 
> I got started with fixing the miter saw dust hood measurement mistakes. I don't use it often, but when I do, I frequently wonder why biscuit joiners get such a bad rap on the forums… They really do help me out around the shop!
> 
> I also had to back fill my hex shank quick change drill bit sets for a couple of the smaller sizes that break easily. I wasn't quite able to get an exact match but close enough. I went from Ryobi Ti coated bits to DeWalt black oxides. Oh well, as fast as these small bits break, it's not like they are going to have a chance to get dull anyway!
> 
> Again, if you want more detail, or photos, check out my blogger post…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-to-correct-my-mistakes-and.html


I would love to just be able to replace the bit part, not the hex part.

I must admit the hex end makes for super fast bit changeovers, and VERY secure bit holding, but not the most accurate drilling as it induces some wobble into the bit. However the bit tends to follow where it starts, so the wobble stops almost instantly once it grabs in the work piece..


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## dbhost

*SCMS Dust hood completed and installed.*

I finally got the SCMS dust hood finished and installed. Just need to finish up the ducting which will probably happen this weekend…

The design is pretty simple, just an open frame held together with pocket screws and glue, a simple top screwed to the frame, and a thin melamine coated hard board curved panel attached with screws and fender washers to the frame.

As you may recall I messed up my measurements, and had to extend it. I didn't want to fully scrap it, so I simply took the biscuit joiner and extended it out. Just took some scrap, cut it to size, joined it with biscuits, and glue, LOTS of glue… Didn't give a care about squeeze out…

The dust hose connection from the saw is adapted to the saw itself using Gorilla tape, and the OE screws, then kept from flapping around with the power cord by using plumbing strap, and again the OE screw from the saw.

I still need to finish the ducting, but once done, I am finished, at least for now, with my dust collection system… FINALLY.

The writeup is on my blogger page, http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/sliding-compound-miter-saw-dust.html


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *SCMS Dust hood completed and installed.*
> 
> I finally got the SCMS dust hood finished and installed. Just need to finish up the ducting which will probably happen this weekend…
> 
> The design is pretty simple, just an open frame held together with pocket screws and glue, a simple top screwed to the frame, and a thin melamine coated hard board curved panel attached with screws and fender washers to the frame.
> 
> As you may recall I messed up my measurements, and had to extend it. I didn't want to fully scrap it, so I simply took the biscuit joiner and extended it out. Just took some scrap, cut it to size, joined it with biscuits, and glue, LOTS of glue… Didn't give a care about squeeze out…
> 
> The dust hose connection from the saw is adapted to the saw itself using Gorilla tape, and the OE screws, then kept from flapping around with the power cord by using plumbing strap, and again the OE screw from the saw.
> 
> I still need to finish the ducting, but once done, I am finished, at least for now, with my dust collection system… FINALLY.
> 
> The writeup is on my blogger page, http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/sliding-compound-miter-saw-dust.html


I wasn't sure what you were exactly building until I saw the picture. Once I get my miter saw in La Conner permanently situated, I may do something similar…...........


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *SCMS Dust hood completed and installed.*
> 
> I finally got the SCMS dust hood finished and installed. Just need to finish up the ducting which will probably happen this weekend…
> 
> The design is pretty simple, just an open frame held together with pocket screws and glue, a simple top screwed to the frame, and a thin melamine coated hard board curved panel attached with screws and fender washers to the frame.
> 
> As you may recall I messed up my measurements, and had to extend it. I didn't want to fully scrap it, so I simply took the biscuit joiner and extended it out. Just took some scrap, cut it to size, joined it with biscuits, and glue, LOTS of glue… Didn't give a care about squeeze out…
> 
> The dust hose connection from the saw is adapted to the saw itself using Gorilla tape, and the OE screws, then kept from flapping around with the power cord by using plumbing strap, and again the OE screw from the saw.
> 
> I still need to finish the ducting, but once done, I am finished, at least for now, with my dust collection system… FINALLY.
> 
> The writeup is on my blogger page, http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/sliding-compound-miter-saw-dust.html


Yeah, I tried to bring it as far forward as I could. Chances are I will still miss some of the dust, but I would rather miss say 10% and catch 90% than the other way around…


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## dbhost

*Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*

I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html

Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,

I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!

And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


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## NormG

dbhost said:


> *Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*
> 
> I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html
> 
> Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,
> 
> I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!
> 
> And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


Wow, lot of work, looks great


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## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*
> 
> I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html
> 
> Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,
> 
> I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!
> 
> And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


Dave,
You're coming down the home stretch. I believe you'll make it just in time to start the Spring yard work.
The effort you've put into your shop has to be very rewarding.

Thanks for sharing your journey and I'm gonna hang out and watch you finish up.

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len
Work Safely and have Fun.

EDIT: I bet that saw dust won't stick around long enough to realize the your vertical lift isn't plumb.* ;-)*


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*
> 
> I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html
> 
> Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,
> 
> I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!
> 
> And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


LOL… I bet not! I tested it already cleaning up the dust made doing the plumbing work, and it works quite admirably…

I am at the point now I need to finish with the miter saw bench drawers, get them populated, and get the non powered wall insulated, but the shop, while not fully done, is quite functional at this time! I will be celebrating with a cold one tomorrow.


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## DocSavage45

dbhost said:


> *Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*
> 
> I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html
> 
> Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,
> 
> I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!
> 
> And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


Think you will ever be done?  I have some HF tools to serve that same purpose. Some excellent, others well when I have the money. LOL!


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## Kentuk55

dbhost said:


> *Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*
> 
> I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html
> 
> Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,
> 
> I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!
> 
> And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


One hell-of-a-blog. Lotsa nice pipe work for your dust collection also.


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Miter saw dust hood plumbing installed, workbench mods, and a new tool!*
> 
> I have a fresh post up on http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/miter-saw-dust-hood-plumbing-complete.html
> 
> Quick summary though. The ducting for the miter saw dust hood is done, tied into the original system. With that part of the bench done,
> 
> I have started moving hand held power tools off of the workbench, and no to the miter saw bench cubby. I spent some time reorganizing some items, and finally am able to at least give you a peek at the plywood scrap shelf on the base of the main workbench. It's not fancy, it is literally made up of scraps I sources out of the cutoff bin, but it really solidifies the bench, and provides the storage I so desperately need!
> 
> And lastly, Harbor Freight strikes again, and this time it is a home run with the variable speed oscillating multifunction tool. Not a fine woodworking tool, not something I will use a lot, but it is helping me do a job I was not having any luck getting done!


You are coming along nicely. In particular, the work you have put into the ducting should pay off. If I ever get totally settled as to where everything is going to be, I think I will substitute hard stuff for the flexible stuff. When I first put in my system it had to cross a lot of places where things were stored, and the flexible stuff allowed more gerrymandering of the course. Actually, my air flow is acceptable even the way it is, so I haven't been in a hurry to change things. But I like your use of off the shelf pipe.

As I work in the shop there are a few things I have noticed. Some power tools are best placed on a shelf, and kept plugged in because they are used so frequently. Since my work flow revolves largely around my multi-purpose bench, that is where I keep things.

My oscillating tool doubles as a detail sander, so it actually stays out and plugged in. It is temporarily on a shelf on my old built in bench that was here when I bought the house. It is plugged into the multipurpose bench, though, since it is immediately adjacent.

My goto sander, the PC 394 low profile random orbital sander stays plugged in and on a shelf in the multipurpose bench, along side my custom wooden box of nails for the nailers.

My pin, brad, and finishing nailers are all plugged into air and on shelves in the multipurpose bench as is a blower nozzle. The compressor is housed in the multipurpose bench and ready to go. I just put together an bunch of fittings so they could all stay plugged in.

My impact drivers and screwdrivers are out by their charger, and ready for use.

I put some near junk plywood shelves into my old workbench, and into the built in bench years ago, just like you have. It is quick, cheap, and easy to do…........a no brainer.

This particular arrangement works for me because I have a dedicated work area, the multipurpose bench, that is out in the open, electrified, with compressed air, attached to the DC, and the top doubles as a downdraft table. I would love to have a duplicate of that bench in La Conner, but it is never going to happen, due to space requirements there, and the amount of work that went into that bench. It was worth it, but I will never do it again in this life time…......

I will have to revisit that bench in a blog at some time, because it has mutated slightly over time and is a unique piece of gear…........


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## dbhost

*Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *

I have a new post on my blogger blog…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html

I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…

Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.










Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!


















I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


I definitely have to do what you did with your clamps. Besides, it would be an excuse to buy more clamps…..........

I left a long reply on your last post….................


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## GrandpaLen

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


Dave,

Your casters, mounted under your existing base will indeed have a somewhat smaller footprint than the base itself which may have an effect on stability. If that is problematic you could add a larger plywood base to offset the difference and compensate the narrower footprint.

...just a thought.
Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


GrandpaLen,

I had considered that. IF that pans out badly, I will probably build / mount up "Caster outriggers", I.E. 2×4s cut to allow the casters to mount to them, and putting the footprint out a bit wider…

Yeah I had considered that. and am somewhat concerned, but not freaked out yet.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


I was going to say the same thing as GrandpaLen…..............

When I built a tall and thin mobile storage gizmo…..

tall and thin

I used a piece of plywood to spread the wheelbase, and put a piece of scrap cast iron on the bottom for weight. It is quite stable in spite of the light weight of the items, and their height. I pull it around from the top items, and that is how you will use that rack as well.

As I eyeball your rack, I am thinking you might get by without making a larger wheel base. But, you will want to pull that thing to you from the top when you are working, and that might just be enough to make it tippy. Your clamps are jutting out some, so the effective foot print is already larger than the rack itself, so making a larger wheelbase will not take up much more room on your floor.

I would go for the larger wheel base. The easiest and best way to do that is a piece of plywood, with the wheels at the corners so that you gain wheelbase in all directions. You need to expand the wheelbase in all directions.

Making a sandwich of thinner plywood if you are trying to use scrap, would work. You could even make a thin torsion box out of scrap, say, 2 pieces of 1/4" ply or Masonite with miscellaneous braces internally, and with a solid area at each corner to mount the wheel screws. You will end up using that cart a lot, and stability will be very important and worth the time and effort. How you make it is totally a personal question of what wood you have on hand. Probably not worth buying anything to do it, since it should be doable with some combination of scrap. I even used scrap wheels on my storage gizmo.


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## oldnovice

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


Nice looking rack … that could be taken wrong … nice looking *clamp rack*!

Check out Caster City as I believe they have some of the best casters at competetive prices. I have used them for a number of applications from 3" to 5" and never been dissapointed.

I like that better than my "A" frame version so I will usurp this version for myself!


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


Not disagreeing, but for now, trying to keep the overall height down some. Those 6' pipe clamps are interesting to get in and out of the rack…

I do have enough scrap ply to do the trick. I admit though I am trying to keep the footprint as small as possible…

Floor real estate is a precious commodity…


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## Kentuk55

dbhost said:


> *Rolling clamp cart mostly done, except for the rolling part. *
> 
> I have a new post on my blogger blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-i-built.html
> 
> I have a couple of spots that could be redone / fixed due to operator error, but I doubt I will. It is only cosmetic and I just don't care that much. It needs to work, not be pretty…
> 
> Quick Rundown, the build was done with 2×4s and plywood. 2×4s were cut down to size on the BT and crosscut with the miter saw, after the first cut, using the dust hood… HUGE difference. Not perfect, but certainly acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it was put together, even lacking casters, I loaded it up , unless the casters induce some instability, this thing is rock solid… No worries of tipping here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have after what, 6 years now, removed the clamp rack that was bolted to the wall. Next step will be to add the casters, patch the wall, and then move the freezer in…


This type of clamp rack is really nice. A small footprint, with large capacity. Plus, all your clamps in one spot.


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## dbhost

*I made good on the deal, after 17 months!*

The writeup, as usual, is on my Blogger page, but the synopsis is…

I finally, after 17 months of on again, off again, health problems biting me in the tail work… I got the deep freeze moved into the shop.

The process was a bit painful, I had to remove the solid entry door to the shop, and that sucker's heavy…

I did verify that the miter saw, and mortiser line up, and stock clears each other, and the freezer with some room, but not much, to spare…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/making-good-on-deal-17-months-in.html


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *I made good on the deal, after 17 months!*
> 
> The writeup, as usual, is on my Blogger page, but the synopsis is…
> 
> I finally, after 17 months of on again, off again, health problems biting me in the tail work… I got the deep freeze moved into the shop.
> 
> The process was a bit painful, I had to remove the solid entry door to the shop, and that sucker's heavy…
> 
> I did verify that the miter saw, and mortiser line up, and stock clears each other, and the freezer with some room, but not much, to spare…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/making-good-on-deal-17-months-in.html


Bet that is a nice feeling having that moved. Last summer I moved a freezer *out* of my shop, and into an alcove in the garage. To make it fit, demolished some shelving that had been used for old tax records, that Sherie has mostly shredded now. The spot where the freezer was is waiting for an entry bench and shoe storage complex and a band saw. All the electrical is done…....

Got some work done on surface finishing my CD rack for the shop, yesterday. Now it needs sanding, a coat of WATCO, and it is ready to go back to holding CD's.

Eyeballing the outfeed/DC job, hoping to get some of that done tomorrow…........


----------



## stefang

dbhost said:


> *I made good on the deal, after 17 months!*
> 
> The writeup, as usual, is on my Blogger page, but the synopsis is…
> 
> I finally, after 17 months of on again, off again, health problems biting me in the tail work… I got the deep freeze moved into the shop.
> 
> The process was a bit painful, I had to remove the solid entry door to the shop, and that sucker's heavy…
> 
> I did verify that the miter saw, and mortiser line up, and stock clears each other, and the freezer with some room, but not much, to spare…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/making-good-on-deal-17-months-in.html


Looks good Dave.


----------



## dbhost

*Finishing up the reely big issue, mostly...*

So in my latest blogi installment on daves-workshop.blogspot.com I go into some detail about how to install a Harbor Freight 50' self retracting air / water hose reel without any help. The process is fairly easy as long as you are willing to make adjustments in your plan, and work with / around the features of the reel itself. The benefits of having an overhead hose reel include safety, a cleaner shop, and greatly improved ease of use.

With the exception of the connection between regulator and reel, this project is done. And until the rubber hose I have doing the job now fails, I don't think there is any truly compelling reason to upgrade to larger hard line. Maybe in the future when I decide for reliability sake to upgrade, or if this does prove to be problematic / too restrictive and causing performance problems, then I would change it up, but for now it is quite effective…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Finishing up the reely big issue, mostly...*
> 
> So in my latest blogi installment on daves-workshop.blogspot.com I go into some detail about how to install a Harbor Freight 50' self retracting air / water hose reel without any help. The process is fairly easy as long as you are willing to make adjustments in your plan, and work with / around the features of the reel itself. The benefits of having an overhead hose reel include safety, a cleaner shop, and greatly improved ease of use.
> 
> With the exception of the connection between regulator and reel, this project is done. And until the rubber hose I have doing the job now fails, I don't think there is any truly compelling reason to upgrade to larger hard line. Maybe in the future when I decide for reliability sake to upgrade, or if this does prove to be problematic / too restrictive and causing performance problems, then I would change it up, but for now it is quite effective…


Glad you got your air up and running. I do most of my work with air at my multipurpose bench, so it works to have the compressor inside of that as well as the nailers and the blower. You, as I noted before, have a lot more use for air than I have.

Nice day here in La Conner. Getting a new dish washer installed installed, the old one is very noisy, although it does a decent job of cleaning the dishes.

When that shop of yours is up and running, and it sounds close, it will make a lot a difference in your productivity…...


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Finishing up the reely big issue, mostly...*
> 
> So in my latest blogi installment on daves-workshop.blogspot.com I go into some detail about how to install a Harbor Freight 50' self retracting air / water hose reel without any help. The process is fairly easy as long as you are willing to make adjustments in your plan, and work with / around the features of the reel itself. The benefits of having an overhead hose reel include safety, a cleaner shop, and greatly improved ease of use.
> 
> With the exception of the connection between regulator and reel, this project is done. And until the rubber hose I have doing the job now fails, I don't think there is any truly compelling reason to upgrade to larger hard line. Maybe in the future when I decide for reliability sake to upgrade, or if this does prove to be problematic / too restrictive and causing performance problems, then I would change it up, but for now it is quite effective…


Actually, if it weren't for the automotive stuff, and the spraying, I wouldn't want the 29 gallon compressor, It eats space… And I could have gotten by with a simply hose drop from the ceiling with one of those coil hoses for running nailers at the bench…


----------



## dbhost

*Dual air compressor plumbing done, and lesson learned.*

I have the plumbing for the dual compressor rig completed. All done with 3/8" rubber hose, and where the hoses come together, I upsize from the 1/4" fittings to 3/8" copper to give it all room to breathe a bit better.

I used 1/4" pnuematic inline check valves to prevent bleedback between the comrpessors. A step a lot of folks don't do, but they are ganging similair compressors together, mine are rather dissimilar and thus need to be isolated so the big one doesn't overrun the little one and merely use it as a storage tank.

I also found out, when I took the bushings off the regulator where the errant teflon tape that jammed up my impact wrench came from, and I hate to admit it, but I did this to myself. Be careful when making your wraps of pipe sealant tape! You don't want to jam your tools up! I must admit though, I am a bit disappointed it got past the inlet screen on the gun, but, well pressure, and that teflon is slippery stuff, I guess no shock there…

Anyway, the writeup in more detail is on my Blogger site…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/running-2-different-size-air.html


----------



## dbhost

*Improvising air hose retaining clamps.*

Okay so my schedule hasn't allowed me to run to Home Depot to buy any clamps, and my spools of plastic plumbers strap appear to be playing hide and seek with me, and winning… And that danging hose just bugs the tar out of me… But what to do?

Improvise!

I stumbled upon an old, HUGE nylon zip tie, probably 3/8" wide by 30 or so inches long. I think it may have been from the compressor pallet. Anyway the thought occoured to me that the plastic used here was the same as what was used in the pre made clamps, so why not improvise. And that is exactly what I did!

Photos and a slightly different write up are on my Blogspot Blog...

The install ins't 100% finished, but once the shop light has been taken off of the ceiling directly and chain hung, I can finish it up. Maybe 3 or 4 more clamps depending on how OCD I get about routing… I need to either find or get chains for this light, OR create some sort of mounting system for it to space it off of the drywall.

For those that have the room and have been considering the hose reel addition and are hesitating not sure if the HF unit is worth the $$... I have the following observations about Air Hose Reels.

I have been around / used hose reels like these literally for decades, I started out as you may recall in high school as a pump jockey at a full serve gas station and worked my way up to management / mechanic while I was in college… I have been around many different makes / models of these things…

I can not attest to the long term durability of this comparatively, however the build quality at least at first glance is every bit as good, if not better than the "High End Tool Truck" models we used when I was making my living with them. My only areas of concern are…

#1. The durability of the spring winder mechanism. Mind you, HF has been selling these for a LONG time now, and absolutely zero of the reviews I can find anywhere complain about spring / rewind failures. More than I can say for the older Goodyear models we used that failed after 2 years…
#2. The durability of the Central Pnuematic rubber hose. I see a good number of complaints about this. I am wondering however what conditions they were installed in. Rubber hose is NOT, and I repeat NOT stable to UV, and large heat / cold swings. To be blunt. If I get 5 years out of these hoses, I will give it 5 stars. Throw in the complication of exposing the hoses to petrochemicals such as dirty motor oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid etc… and I can see how people are experiencing failures of the hose ends within a year. The Goodyear hoses we used to use at the stations on the pump islands lasted about a year before we had to use the hose end mender kits on them… The ones in the shop lasted about 2 years.

The operation of the reel itself is very smooth, and very predictable. No trying to force the reel to take up or pay out… No unexpected yanks on the hose from the return spring either… No rattle or looseness at all in the operations.

I looked at 50' Hose Reels from the BORG and the Blue Box, as well as from Northern Tool, and even Sears. There seem to be 2 main differences between the 50' metal open reel hose reels with 3/8" hose. They are paint color, most are semi gloss black, while some are yellow, and one was blue. The other difference was the hose itself. Most appear to have the same exact hose, the red one the HF unit comes with.

Prices vary pretty widely, the best price however was a toss up between the Central Pnuematic 50 footer from Harbor Freight, and Amazon occasionally puts the Tekton 50 footer on sale for roughly the same price as the HF… with the same hose, so the only real difference is do you want you reel in black, or red?


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Improvising air hose retaining clamps.*
> 
> Okay so my schedule hasn't allowed me to run to Home Depot to buy any clamps, and my spools of plastic plumbers strap appear to be playing hide and seek with me, and winning… And that danging hose just bugs the tar out of me… But what to do?
> 
> Improvise!
> 
> I stumbled upon an old, HUGE nylon zip tie, probably 3/8" wide by 30 or so inches long. I think it may have been from the compressor pallet. Anyway the thought occoured to me that the plastic used here was the same as what was used in the pre made clamps, so why not improvise. And that is exactly what I did!
> 
> Photos and a slightly different write up are on my Blogspot Blog...
> 
> The install ins't 100% finished, but once the shop light has been taken off of the ceiling directly and chain hung, I can finish it up. Maybe 3 or 4 more clamps depending on how OCD I get about routing… I need to either find or get chains for this light, OR create some sort of mounting system for it to space it off of the drywall.
> 
> For those that have the room and have been considering the hose reel addition and are hesitating not sure if the HF unit is worth the $$... I have the following observations about Air Hose Reels.
> 
> I have been around / used hose reels like these literally for decades, I started out as you may recall in high school as a pump jockey at a full serve gas station and worked my way up to management / mechanic while I was in college… I have been around many different makes / models of these things…
> 
> I can not attest to the long term durability of this comparatively, however the build quality at least at first glance is every bit as good, if not better than the "High End Tool Truck" models we used when I was making my living with them. My only areas of concern are…
> 
> #1. The durability of the spring winder mechanism. Mind you, HF has been selling these for a LONG time now, and absolutely zero of the reviews I can find anywhere complain about spring / rewind failures. More than I can say for the older Goodyear models we used that failed after 2 years…
> #2. The durability of the Central Pnuematic rubber hose. I see a good number of complaints about this. I am wondering however what conditions they were installed in. Rubber hose is NOT, and I repeat NOT stable to UV, and large heat / cold swings. To be blunt. If I get 5 years out of these hoses, I will give it 5 stars. Throw in the complication of exposing the hoses to petrochemicals such as dirty motor oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid etc… and I can see how people are experiencing failures of the hose ends within a year. The Goodyear hoses we used to use at the stations on the pump islands lasted about a year before we had to use the hose end mender kits on them… The ones in the shop lasted about 2 years.
> 
> The operation of the reel itself is very smooth, and very predictable. No trying to force the reel to take up or pay out… No unexpected yanks on the hose from the return spring either… No rattle or looseness at all in the operations.
> 
> I looked at 50' Hose Reels from the BORG and the Blue Box, as well as from Northern Tool, and even Sears. There seem to be 2 main differences between the 50' metal open reel hose reels with 3/8" hose. They are paint color, most are semi gloss black, while some are yellow, and one was blue. The other difference was the hose itself. Most appear to have the same exact hose, the red one the HF unit comes with.
> 
> Prices vary pretty widely, the best price however was a toss up between the Central Pnuematic 50 footer from Harbor Freight, and Amazon occasionally puts the Tekton 50 footer on sale for roughly the same price as the HF… with the same hose, so the only real difference is do you want you reel in black, or red?


Thanks for the advice. Although I haven't thought about a reel, it might make sense in one of my shops over time. Right now it isn't an issue, although I am fighting the hose here in La Conner a little. A reel might work here, but the shop has to be further along in its development before I would know where to mount it.

Plugging away on the trim for the torsion box bench, nothing exciting to say here at the moment.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Improvising air hose retaining clamps.*
> 
> Okay so my schedule hasn't allowed me to run to Home Depot to buy any clamps, and my spools of plastic plumbers strap appear to be playing hide and seek with me, and winning… And that danging hose just bugs the tar out of me… But what to do?
> 
> Improvise!
> 
> I stumbled upon an old, HUGE nylon zip tie, probably 3/8" wide by 30 or so inches long. I think it may have been from the compressor pallet. Anyway the thought occoured to me that the plastic used here was the same as what was used in the pre made clamps, so why not improvise. And that is exactly what I did!
> 
> Photos and a slightly different write up are on my Blogspot Blog...
> 
> The install ins't 100% finished, but once the shop light has been taken off of the ceiling directly and chain hung, I can finish it up. Maybe 3 or 4 more clamps depending on how OCD I get about routing… I need to either find or get chains for this light, OR create some sort of mounting system for it to space it off of the drywall.
> 
> For those that have the room and have been considering the hose reel addition and are hesitating not sure if the HF unit is worth the $$... I have the following observations about Air Hose Reels.
> 
> I have been around / used hose reels like these literally for decades, I started out as you may recall in high school as a pump jockey at a full serve gas station and worked my way up to management / mechanic while I was in college… I have been around many different makes / models of these things…
> 
> I can not attest to the long term durability of this comparatively, however the build quality at least at first glance is every bit as good, if not better than the "High End Tool Truck" models we used when I was making my living with them. My only areas of concern are…
> 
> #1. The durability of the spring winder mechanism. Mind you, HF has been selling these for a LONG time now, and absolutely zero of the reviews I can find anywhere complain about spring / rewind failures. More than I can say for the older Goodyear models we used that failed after 2 years…
> #2. The durability of the Central Pnuematic rubber hose. I see a good number of complaints about this. I am wondering however what conditions they were installed in. Rubber hose is NOT, and I repeat NOT stable to UV, and large heat / cold swings. To be blunt. If I get 5 years out of these hoses, I will give it 5 stars. Throw in the complication of exposing the hoses to petrochemicals such as dirty motor oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid etc… and I can see how people are experiencing failures of the hose ends within a year. The Goodyear hoses we used to use at the stations on the pump islands lasted about a year before we had to use the hose end mender kits on them… The ones in the shop lasted about 2 years.
> 
> The operation of the reel itself is very smooth, and very predictable. No trying to force the reel to take up or pay out… No unexpected yanks on the hose from the return spring either… No rattle or looseness at all in the operations.
> 
> I looked at 50' Hose Reels from the BORG and the Blue Box, as well as from Northern Tool, and even Sears. There seem to be 2 main differences between the 50' metal open reel hose reels with 3/8" hose. They are paint color, most are semi gloss black, while some are yellow, and one was blue. The other difference was the hose itself. Most appear to have the same exact hose, the red one the HF unit comes with.
> 
> Prices vary pretty widely, the best price however was a toss up between the Central Pnuematic 50 footer from Harbor Freight, and Amazon occasionally puts the Tekton 50 footer on sale for roughly the same price as the HF… with the same hose, so the only real difference is do you want you reel in black, or red?


I found the reel to be a safety improvement for me. I was often tripping over hose on the floor… So at least in my installation it wasn't really a question of "Should I install a hose reel" but more a question of "which hose reel should I use?".

The auto retracting reels are certainly more convenient. I have 2 manual extension cord "winders" that while they work great, they aren't as easy as a simple tug and let reel back in under its own power sort of affair… So they get left out more than is good for me.

Honestly the only thing I would have preferred is for the reel to be white instead of black, to help with the lighting situation in my shop. Amazon has the "Primefit" 50 foot reel, white with a black hose, but at just at double what I paid for the HF reel after you figure taxes in… and the base of that one appears to be a MUCH thinner stamping than the HF unit… So I am keeping it black, at least until the hose fails. Then I might pull it down, scuff it with a sanding block, Krylon white the thing and put it back up with a new hose…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Improvising air hose retaining clamps.*
> 
> Okay so my schedule hasn't allowed me to run to Home Depot to buy any clamps, and my spools of plastic plumbers strap appear to be playing hide and seek with me, and winning… And that danging hose just bugs the tar out of me… But what to do?
> 
> Improvise!
> 
> I stumbled upon an old, HUGE nylon zip tie, probably 3/8" wide by 30 or so inches long. I think it may have been from the compressor pallet. Anyway the thought occoured to me that the plastic used here was the same as what was used in the pre made clamps, so why not improvise. And that is exactly what I did!
> 
> Photos and a slightly different write up are on my Blogspot Blog...
> 
> The install ins't 100% finished, but once the shop light has been taken off of the ceiling directly and chain hung, I can finish it up. Maybe 3 or 4 more clamps depending on how OCD I get about routing… I need to either find or get chains for this light, OR create some sort of mounting system for it to space it off of the drywall.
> 
> For those that have the room and have been considering the hose reel addition and are hesitating not sure if the HF unit is worth the $$... I have the following observations about Air Hose Reels.
> 
> I have been around / used hose reels like these literally for decades, I started out as you may recall in high school as a pump jockey at a full serve gas station and worked my way up to management / mechanic while I was in college… I have been around many different makes / models of these things…
> 
> I can not attest to the long term durability of this comparatively, however the build quality at least at first glance is every bit as good, if not better than the "High End Tool Truck" models we used when I was making my living with them. My only areas of concern are…
> 
> #1. The durability of the spring winder mechanism. Mind you, HF has been selling these for a LONG time now, and absolutely zero of the reviews I can find anywhere complain about spring / rewind failures. More than I can say for the older Goodyear models we used that failed after 2 years…
> #2. The durability of the Central Pnuematic rubber hose. I see a good number of complaints about this. I am wondering however what conditions they were installed in. Rubber hose is NOT, and I repeat NOT stable to UV, and large heat / cold swings. To be blunt. If I get 5 years out of these hoses, I will give it 5 stars. Throw in the complication of exposing the hoses to petrochemicals such as dirty motor oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid etc… and I can see how people are experiencing failures of the hose ends within a year. The Goodyear hoses we used to use at the stations on the pump islands lasted about a year before we had to use the hose end mender kits on them… The ones in the shop lasted about 2 years.
> 
> The operation of the reel itself is very smooth, and very predictable. No trying to force the reel to take up or pay out… No unexpected yanks on the hose from the return spring either… No rattle or looseness at all in the operations.
> 
> I looked at 50' Hose Reels from the BORG and the Blue Box, as well as from Northern Tool, and even Sears. There seem to be 2 main differences between the 50' metal open reel hose reels with 3/8" hose. They are paint color, most are semi gloss black, while some are yellow, and one was blue. The other difference was the hose itself. Most appear to have the same exact hose, the red one the HF unit comes with.
> 
> Prices vary pretty widely, the best price however was a toss up between the Central Pnuematic 50 footer from Harbor Freight, and Amazon occasionally puts the Tekton 50 footer on sale for roughly the same price as the HF… with the same hose, so the only real difference is do you want you reel in black, or red?


You might think about….........lime green, or pink!!!

Seriously, got to put up with some color variations. Both of my shops are a color catastrophe, so I can't seriously critique it.

Today I had my power tools arrayed around me as I put edging on the pedestals. Had to carefully route cords and the air hose, so I understand the problem. I really avoid walking over cords and hoses, just for safety and convenience. Safety in the shop involves keeping things neat and convenient, so I am with you on that.

I assume the weather is relatively nice there, about this time of year? La Conner as noted in another reply is in the low 50's but sunny. Anchorage is its usual Springtime calamity….........

Later…...................


----------



## dbhost

*Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*

As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…

I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).

Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!

Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…

So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.

As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


I beginning to think that my basic compressor systems are throw away things….......(-: You know, the 6 gallon PC pancake things. They work fine, no problems, and are not expensive, and don't take up much room. But no way have I put the mental effort and research into my stuff that you have. However, I am only running nail guns and a blower. Nearly duplicate systems at the two shops, but the one back home is much better set up, with all the guns and the blower constantly connected, and the compressor in a sound deadening space in my multipurpose bench. I hope to have a similar system here, but with the little time I get in the shop each vacation, that is a long way off.

Today I hooked up a little portable Grizzly G1163P dust collection system to my table saw. (Everything else I run using the Festool dust extractor). I assembled it today also, easy, except for some strange bolts that mount the motor/fan to the wheeled base. They were non-standard 1/4"-20 bolts, with a flanged head, that took a 10mm socket.

Buttttttttttttttttt….......the heads were too shallow, widened out at the bottom, and wrenches tended to slip off of them. And they were in tight places to reach…...meaning, couldn't use a ratchet on them easily. I wonder who was the brainiac that selected those for this application. I finally cut down some too long hex head 1/4"- 20 bolts to fit, and was able to get those in. I probably would have been able to use the original bolts with a ratcheting metric box wrench, but I don't even have the metric version of that in Anchorage. Fortunately, a non-critical issue solved with a hack saw and some available bolts.

The motor is a 1 hp induction motor, will run either 120 or 240, and the amps fits the stated hp. Very solid, heavy construction. A simple device with a cloth bag to connect and disconnect…......adequate for a TS that doesn't generate fine dust. It worked extremely well, connected direct to the TS with a short connection of 4" hose. Nice machine, actually, and just right for this shop, that must be put away each evening. Just roll it back to the wall. It will actually hang on the wall as well.

Running in the low 50's here, but with blue sky and sunshine who's complaining.

Later…...................


----------



## Callum

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


Do you have any photo's of your setup? I'm doing a similar setup for my larger (3 head, about 15 cfm) compressor in my workshop and I'd love to see what you've done.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


My blog at http:// daves-workshop.blogspot.com has the photos. ..


----------



## Callum

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


Ahh ok, I found them. I just had to click to a different post. 
I'm doing something similar in my workshop but my main reason is that I had a humidity issue. Even with the water trap on there it can't get all the water out (I run a three head 12 - 15cfm compressor) so I'm going old school on it.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


How much humidity are you dealing with? I am in coastal Texas and frequently get 90% RH days. I do run a separate water / oil separator at the tool when using my spray guns, but for just driving tools like nailers etc… a couple of drops of air tool oil before use, and what little moisture that gets through doesn't matter in the least.

Honestly, if budget, and space allowed, and with patience I can squeeze it into the budget, but space is the bigger problem, I would LOVE to get my hands on a Maxair C5160V 60 gallon 5HP compressor. 18.5 CFM at 100 PSI sounds like a real winner to me!










I would have to give up, or at least move up my shop library cabinet, and the storage that provides me is pretty vital. I may eventually move it up the wall to give me the headroom I need for a big 60 gallon compressor, but for now, I am going with machines that fit better in my space.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


......a single phase 5hp, wonder how many amps and what size wire would be needed…...........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


Specs show it as 23 amps.

The outlet is already wired for 230 / 115 30 amps using 10 ga wire. I had that done with future growth in mind when I had power pulled to the shop. Same goes for the main tool circuit. I have wire sufficient to carry 100 amps from the main panel to the sub, just need to swap breakers and I am ready to go at 100 amps… That would be the max rating of the sub panel, but within comfortable headroom for the wire involved as well as the main panel.

Yeah, I overbuilt for a reason…

My long term plan was a big compressor once I figured out how to get it in there, a 3 HP SawStop PCS, and a true cyclone. However with as well as my HF rig is working, might not do a cylcone after all… The 2HP HF DC / Thien / Wynn filter combo has been a very pleasant performer thus far. The only place I find myself frustrated even now is the miter saw. The dust hood contains the dust , keeps it out of my breathing air, but I get a LOT of shavings left behind… No dust above the hood though.

I AM concerned about having to physically attach such a large compressor to the floor.I don't really want to anchor it. Not sure why that is done other than tipover protection, in my shop it would have ti tip through a wall, or cabinets on 3 sides, and the remaining side is a 24" squeeze before you hit the Thien separator… No quake activity to worry about, so except for a tank rupture / launch event, I just don't see why…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


I thought one would have to exceed the 12 gauge wire to power it. I run my own circuits, so I could do such a thing, but a device needing that kind of HP is not in my plans. Probably ever.

You are a lot younger, and are more diverse in your needs. I have wired double ovens before, and other big amperage requirements, but not likely to do that ever again. Nowadays, I just call the electrician, unless it is shop stuff.

Nice day here in La Conner, sun shining, in the mid 50's. Tomorrow is clean up day, then home to balmy Anchorage…...............


----------



## Callum

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


Mine's similar along the size of that Maxair unit but it's some Chinese brand. I went with that one because it was one of the few horizontal tanks I could find. So far I've had it for eight months and it spends the whole week working (I use pneumatic sanders and such quite a lot) and it hasn't let me down yet. It is an industrial unit, cost me just a shade under $600 and the build quality is there. It is 230V, not sure about the power output. Even with the trap I've never been able to get rid of all the water. I did notice that the air was still coming out kinda warm, so I did a bit of research and according to what I found the hotter the air the more moisture it carries, so I built a copper radiator out of A/C pipe with dropper valves at the low points, then that runs into the water trap. Since then I've had no problems, but I do have a slow leak somewhere in that copper pipe system which is frustrating as all hell. Unfortunately when I was doing it I couldn't get a flaring tool so I had to go with olive joints. I used to work with brakes a fair bit and even back then getting olive joints to seal properly was a pain in the butt. I sealed all the joints up with epoxy putty (which is ugly as sin but works pretty well) but I'm not happy with it so I'll probably track down a flaring tool and redo it at some point.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Problem found with compressed air plumbing!*
> 
> As you may know if you are following along, I have been putting up a compressed air plumbing system based on rubber air hoses, 2 compressors, a regulator / filter and an overhead air hose reel…
> 
> I came across a popped open drain valve on the filter yesterday afternoon (good thing I turned the compressors off!).
> 
> Come to find out, the pressure rating of my Central Pnuematic 3/8" inline air filter / water separator / regulator with the 160 PSI gauge, that goes into the warning range at 150 PSI, is actually rated to only 100 PSI!
> 
> Ugh… And I thought I read the specs and the manual online before I paid for the dumb thing…
> 
> So for now, I throttle back the regulators at the compressors so that we are just a shave under 100 PSI. No biggie really. All of my air tools require 90 PSI or below.
> 
> As is typical, my in depth writeup is on my blog page at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/very-little-shop-time-and-problem-found.html


$600 huh, Dave is gonna want the brand and where you got it, so you might as well get that stuff figured out…............(-:


----------



## dbhost

*Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*

Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…

Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.

Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…

I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!

Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


The 145 pressure limit sounds better. The 100 seemed weird because too many devices use 100 or just above. Plumbing is plumbing, whether you are pushing air or water, and leaks are the number one issue….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


I am thinking the 100 PSI might be a typo on the HF website… It just seems freakishly low.

The friend I did the false fronts for his cabinets for swung by and picked them up last night. He hadn't seen the shop since I was working on the drywall… He was rather surprised when I told him I was my own contractor on the remodel job… He now wants me to do the doors for the cabinets as well…

When do I get time to do my own?!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


Yup, cheap labor is always in demand! Even if it is for your spouse or yourself. If you are paying back a friend because you owed him, not too bad. If he now owes you, not too bad…....unless he doesn't have anything to offer. Some friendships are one way streets….....alas….............


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


While the favor debt issue weighs in my favor it's not that huge of a deal… I have things set so now that once I get bits and such set to the right heights, and production stops in place, I can knock projects out.

This friend is a useful resource for job / client contact searches, so I keep things as favorable as possible…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


Aha, an easy way to maintain a mutually profitable relationship. Isn't there some easier way to describe that….....like…......we are friends? Sorry for being analytic, but just looking out for MY friends….......(-:

In the old days, everyone in an area were friends because they all bartered with each other to get along…now there is money and credit cards. Nice to see a little barter still going on.

Just got back from down at the local micro-brewery pizza place that has been there forever, eating some great pizza from the wood fired oven, and fine beer. 3 blocks away, so of course we walk. On Saturday, will be back in the land of snow….......but suddenly it will be summer. There is no spring, in Alaska.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


Here in Texas we have what northerners call spring. It happens in early Feb.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


La Conner runs a little later than Texas, with most of the trees all leaved out now. It actually happened while we were here for the last two weeks. Of course, in the middle of winter, the grass is still green and there is no snow. There are a few days below freezing, but not many. Texas is too hot for us in the summer. There are better climates than the Pacific Northwest, but it is a good compromise for us.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


Actually summer in Texas is too hot for me… that's why my shop is air conditioned.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


FWIW I got the leaks chased down and fixed. I ripped Teflon tape out and used Teflon paste. The drain valve is holding fine…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


Interesting about the paste. Didn't even know it existed. Will have to look into that. I am used to using the old pipe compound from years ago, and then shifted to the tape. Have to be careful which way you wind that stuff on.

Roger about the AC, don't even have AC here in La Conner, or in Anchorage. Actually, would have more use for it in Anchorage than in La Conner. However, a good window fan does wonders in Anchorage, and seems to be adequate.

Well off to dinner, next reply will probably be from Anchorage, leaving in the morning.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


Paste / compound… gooey Teflon stuff in a jar from Ace. Worst part is I am dealing with Plantar Fascists oh heck you know and I don't want to fight auto correct… shop time is going to probably revolve around the lathe and or scroll saw. I can sit on a stool working those.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


The stuff I used was http://m.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1273356

Sorry their site stinks. The compound works well though. All joints pass the bubble test.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Might have solved the compressor plumbing problem...*
> 
> Not sure about the popped drain valve, but I stopped the weird noise coming from the check valve. I managed to have a thread leak even with teflon tape… It was metal / air escaping moaning, sort of like a baloon groan but not as high pitched, or of course… flexible…
> 
> Got the fittings sealed now, mostly. Have a hose end female fitting by the reel that leaks that I need more thread sealant for… Going to buy the compound though, not tape… I kind of caused that leak tonight though. While I was waiting on progress indicators and had things locked up over the VPN I got the light dropped a bit and a passthrough made for the hose. So hose routing is now complete. The story and photos are on my Blog page.
> 
> Physically looked at my regulator, which IS the same item # as the ones on sale now, and it is clearly marked right behind the gauge, MAX PRESSURE 145 PSI. So my 125 PSI into it was no problem…
> 
> I fiddled around with the drain valve and got it to stop blowing as well. Filled / drained the tanks on both compressors twice. It would appear we have no shortage of humidity here… That is a LOT of water to squeeze out of the air!
> 
> Tomorrow night is going to be spent in Houston I suspect, working on my truck with my BILs again… Might as well… Gotta get it done so I can pull the Saturn down and swap out the AC clutch, Water Pump, PS pump, Idler, and Tensioner pullies. Yeah everything that spins on the front of the engine aside from the alternator. I swapped that out last year…


I will keep it in mind, the tape can be tricky at times. Off to Anchorage today, gotta pack stuff up.


----------



## dbhost

*Simple box joint jig for Ryobi BT3x00 and related saws, and my first box joint!*

My latest project, and blog entry at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-simple-box-joint-jig-for-ryobi-bt3100.html is all about the BT3×00, more or less. I created a very simple yet shockingly effective box joint jig for use with the saw.

My first box joints using this jig, are surpisingly clean, snug fitting, and accuate. And yes I intentionally left the tails proud of the surface…










I had to remove material to clear the star knob on the back side of the 3/4 stock, this was done with a regular grinding stone on a dremel. Not super pretty, but I have plenty of clearance now!










The indexing pin is a 3/8" walnut scrap that I attached with a finish nail with my air nailer, and Titebond III. The spacing in to set my first cut / align the jig to the dado stack is just the cutoff of that same piece. Very effective, very affordable to do!










I have a LOT of projects I need to work, and I feel this setup should allow me to produce some drool worthy joints.

I need to grab some cheap stock to practice with, and set up the dovetail jig, both the MLCS and Harbor Freight jigs, and my box joint jigs, and just build boxes. Mostly to build skill more than boxes.

Once I am more comfortable with making these joints, I need to get very, very busy building things, to start off with, drawers, and a lot of them. I am going to reface my cabinets through the house, and in the process also replace the lousy butt joint and brad nail drawer boxes the builder used… I already have the bits I want to use for the doors which is the MLCS #8782 mitered door frame bit, and I have the matching cove bit. It's a squeeze, but I have fabbed up a sample drawer front using this bit set out of pine. Looked great. (Should have taken photos of it, but didn't think about it sorry…).

My first priority though should be a shadow / display box for LOML's wedding "stuff" (bouquet, garter, veil etc…).


----------



## DocSavage45

dbhost said:


> *Simple box joint jig for Ryobi BT3x00 and related saws, and my first box joint!*
> 
> My latest project, and blog entry at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-simple-box-joint-jig-for-ryobi-bt3100.html is all about the BT3×00, more or less. I created a very simple yet shockingly effective box joint jig for use with the saw.
> 
> My first box joints using this jig, are surpisingly clean, snug fitting, and accuate. And yes I intentionally left the tails proud of the surface…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to remove material to clear the star knob on the back side of the 3/4 stock, this was done with a regular grinding stone on a dremel. Not super pretty, but I have plenty of clearance now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing pin is a 3/8" walnut scrap that I attached with a finish nail with my air nailer, and Titebond III. The spacing in to set my first cut / align the jig to the dado stack is just the cutoff of that same piece. Very effective, very affordable to do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a LOT of projects I need to work, and I feel this setup should allow me to produce some drool worthy joints.
> 
> I need to grab some cheap stock to practice with, and set up the dovetail jig, both the MLCS and Harbor Freight jigs, and my box joint jigs, and just build boxes. Mostly to build skill more than boxes.
> 
> Once I am more comfortable with making these joints, I need to get very, very busy building things, to start off with, drawers, and a lot of them. I am going to reface my cabinets through the house, and in the process also replace the lousy butt joint and brad nail drawer boxes the builder used… I already have the bits I want to use for the doors which is the MLCS #8782 mitered door frame bit, and I have the matching cove bit. It's a squeeze, but I have fabbed up a sample drawer front using this bit set out of pine. Looked great. (Should have taken photos of it, but didn't think about it sorry…).
> 
> My first priority though should be a shadow / display box for LOML's wedding "stuff" (bouquet, garter, veil etc…).


LOL!

I know what you mean about the commercial cabinet face joinery.

Looks like you are in business. Nice when things work for us!


----------



## Kentuk55

dbhost said:


> *Simple box joint jig for Ryobi BT3x00 and related saws, and my first box joint!*
> 
> My latest project, and blog entry at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-simple-box-joint-jig-for-ryobi-bt3100.html is all about the BT3×00, more or less. I created a very simple yet shockingly effective box joint jig for use with the saw.
> 
> My first box joints using this jig, are surpisingly clean, snug fitting, and accuate. And yes I intentionally left the tails proud of the surface…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to remove material to clear the star knob on the back side of the 3/4 stock, this was done with a regular grinding stone on a dremel. Not super pretty, but I have plenty of clearance now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing pin is a 3/8" walnut scrap that I attached with a finish nail with my air nailer, and Titebond III. The spacing in to set my first cut / align the jig to the dado stack is just the cutoff of that same piece. Very effective, very affordable to do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a LOT of projects I need to work, and I feel this setup should allow me to produce some drool worthy joints.
> 
> I need to grab some cheap stock to practice with, and set up the dovetail jig, both the MLCS and Harbor Freight jigs, and my box joint jigs, and just build boxes. Mostly to build skill more than boxes.
> 
> Once I am more comfortable with making these joints, I need to get very, very busy building things, to start off with, drawers, and a lot of them. I am going to reface my cabinets through the house, and in the process also replace the lousy butt joint and brad nail drawer boxes the builder used… I already have the bits I want to use for the doors which is the MLCS #8782 mitered door frame bit, and I have the matching cove bit. It's a squeeze, but I have fabbed up a sample drawer front using this bit set out of pine. Looked great. (Should have taken photos of it, but didn't think about it sorry…).
> 
> My first priority though should be a shadow / display box for LOML's wedding "stuff" (bouquet, garter, veil etc…).


Oh yea. Git er done.


----------



## dbhost

*Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*

The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html

Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.

I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…

#1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.

I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.

#2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.

#3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.

I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334

The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…

#1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.

I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.

#2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.

#3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.

#4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…

The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…

#5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
-5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
-5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
-5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
-5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
-5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
-5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
-5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.

#6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.

#7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
#8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.

#8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…

So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


You have your details down well. I too need a sheet goods cart, but it needs to be 18" wide instead of "24" to fit the space allotted. Hopefully will get some shop time over the next 6 days, need to complete the outfeed table/dust manager for the TS.

Minor plumbing issues around the house are just taking up too much time. Have a plumber coming to replace the pop off valve on the hot water heater. It started leaking, and by flushing it a number of times it finally stopped. But can't have that happening when we are out of town, so will have the plumber replace it this week. In the past I would have done it, but it involves shutting down the water, draining pipes, etc. I just don't have time for that.

Later….........


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


I am already taking up more space with my existing lean against the wall and let it slide method of sheet goods storage, let alone the space taken up by the trash can cutoffs bin. This should, in theory actually save me space.

My design, long term is to allow me to wheel the table saw, bench, and sheet goods storage out of the way and get a car in the garage…

There is a method behind my madness.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


An 18" cart would take the same space that my wood is taking now. The storage space is in the garage along side the cars, so I have to stick to the 18". We always garage our cars, and my shop isn't in the garage proper. But I do store wood in the garage section.

I would like to have most things on wheels as well, for many reasons. That is even more important in La Conner.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


In order for me to squeeze my truck in, I would have to tear down the existing garage, and have a new one built that is at least a foot taller door wise, 2 feet wider on each side so 4 feet wider overall, and about 4 feet deeper. When I had my standard cab regular bed Ranger, it fit, barely… With the nose of the truck 4" from the original workbench, I could barely squeeze behind the truck to close and lock the garage door.

My Saturn would fit no problems. But nothing bigger than say a Ford Fusion, if even something that big…

The garage is a feature if this house I have always hated.

If I was looking to buy a home now, or say a hurricane wiped this one to the foundation, I would have the garage done to fit a lifted F250 crew cab long bed on 35" tires with plenty of space to walk around in each bay. And have a second floor that was just shop space. So basically a 30×24 2 stories high. Oh and the rest of the house whatever… Let LOML worry about those details.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


My garage handles most cars and trucks, but to be honest, it would pushing things to have two vans, or for Sherie to have the largest Lexus SUV. She has a GX470 that is about 9 years old, and will soon be replaced. She likes to sit up high and have reasonable cargo space, so she is starting to look around.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


Debi likes smaller vehicles. Right now we are plowing away debt as fast as we can, probably about 2.5 to 3 years more to go. Once that is done, God and a 13 year old Saturn willing we will be able to put off replacing that car until then. Obviously the market will be different by then, but as it sits now, we are going to plunk down some change for a good down on either a Mercedes Benz E-class. or a Lincoln MK-Z, Go with a lease return so that the cost isn't too painful, both cars have some great selling points. Honestly the Benz will hold its value longer, but the upkeep costs on them are not fun… I have driven a rental MK-Z and am very impressed with it. It is about as large as I can squeeze into the garage too… But that is another story…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


The only small car I have right now is in La Conner, the 12 year old Subaru Outback with about 40,000 miles on it. We bought it from a friend who moved out of Alaska, and we shipped it down to La Conner. It drives like new, and looks sharp. We get unsolicited compliments on it because it looks better than any other Subaru that age, even though there are a lot of little, but not noticeable dings on it. Sherie has trouble finding a comfortable sitting position in it, which is unusual. I am usually the one will the finicky back. I like driving it because it is nimble. Sherie drives the Sienna on her miscellaneous shopping trips, so I end up with the Subaru to run my errands at times.

My 12 year old Odyssey will probably be replaced in the next few years as well.

Time to run off to work….......................


----------



## Kentuk55

dbhost said:


> *Project planning on how to eat an elephant.*
> 
> The blogger entry is here for those that want to see the graphics and the nitty gritty details… Plenty to be found there…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/project-planning-or-how-to-eat-elephant.html
> 
> Right now, being somewhat time constrained with other priorities, and as other projects are ongoing, I am squeezing in design time, and planning to complete what is left of my shop storage / organization tear as it were.
> 
> I am working on fine tuning the details, but I have the following projects to tackle before I can consider my shop "done enough" for now to keep me, and LOML happy for at least the next few years, and to complete the tasks I set out to do…
> 
> #1. Finish building and installing the drawers for the miter saw / mortiser stand / cabinet.
> 
> I am changing the design a little bit however, instead of 2 rows / 3 drawers, I am going 2 rows 2 drawers, I want deep drawers instead of more shallow drawers. Might regret this but can always build more drawer boxes if needed.
> 
> #2. Install blow in insulation in non powered wall, complete drywall repairs and paint.
> 
> #3. Sheet goods / cutoffs cart. LOML is getting somewhat insistent. I worked with a guy that had built one on another forum and came up with a workable design that requires 2 sheets of plywood and 4 casters.
> 
> I have updated the Sketchup model and cutlist to give a much more accurate cutlist than what I had previously put up.
> 
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u7bcebf6e-5281-4555-a33c-167bbd247334
> 
> The rest of the projects are ones I can take my time on. They are…
> 
> #1. Drill pres base cabinet. A removable cab that will ride on my mobile base to my drill press to hold my handheld drills, as well as bits, hole saws, jigs and misc drilling accessories.
> 
> I am trying to rethink how best to keep the drill press stable, and maximize storage. The design for this cart is likely to change, a LOT before ti gets build.
> 
> #2. Lathe base storage cabinet to house my turning tools, chucks etc… and to enclose at least 2, probably 3 80lb concrete bags in the very bottom for ballast. Design still in progress. Having some difficulty deciding on the drawer layout… Again not sure how best to approach this. I am thinking full out replacement bench / cabinet with ballast compartments below, and drawers in the middle. I have seen some where the lathe legs are mounted to a ballast platform, and a box of drawers is mounted to the lathe base. Still trying to decide.
> 
> #3. Table saw / Router mobile workstation. I would like to design and build this such that ALL of my table saw / router accessories, fences, jigs, bits, blades etc… store neatly inside, with an effective mobile base, and leveling feet. I have ideas, but need dimensions.
> 
> #4. HF DC "Side Flip Stand modification, with Thien Top Hat separator". I suspect we've all seen them, and I want to build one. A stand to reorient my impeller housing to eliminate the connector hose between the impeller and the inlet ring that the bags go on, with the intake pointing straight down into a Thien separator, in this case I want to build a top hat style to go on top of my 31 gallon galvanized steel trash can. Once done, this will be moved off the stand, and on to the floor, giving me room for…
> 
> The side flip stand would look something like this Lumberjocks.com member's project except the motor / impeller and ring would be mounted probably 6" higher up to allow for room for a Top Hat Thien separator… I may also change the impeller itself for a larger impeller. I have found a part # that allegedly interchanges, that should move much more air. It always bothered me by how small the stock HF impeller itself is… Oh, and I might just to be different, actually paint my dust collector cart… And possibly the ring, impeller housing, and motor mount… Be good practice with the HVLP gun…
> 
> #5. Above the DC / tool box storage cabinet. This will need to be VERY solidly built, and securely anchored. Remember my shop supports not just woodworking, but also auto repair and home repair. It will hold.
> -5A. 8 gallon air compressor. Put this as close as possible to the manifold etc… My 8 gallon compressor is the older version of THIS MODEL with the only difference I can see are the handle, mine is molded plastic where this one is tubular steel, The foot arrangement, mine has one foot, this has two, probably better for stability, and the stickers on the tank… Oh and my compressor is rated .1CFM higher at both 90 and 40 PSI…
> -5B. Floor jack and jack stands. The tiny, under capacity for my truck units are going to be cleaned up and sold, replaced with a Pittsburgh 4 ton floor jack. I am willing to pay more for a better quality jack that has the capacity to meet my needs, but I haven't found one yet!
> -5C. 6 ton jack stands. I have some old, orange steel jack stands, I think they are rated to 3 ton, but I am not willing to risk it. Probably sand them down, repaint them, and sell them.
> -5D. Ball Joint Press and adapter cup set.
> -5E. R134A Manifold Gauge set. Mostly because the friend I borrowed this from doesn't seem to want it back. I don't mind storing it, but Joel, if you see this, please don't think I am not trying to return this to you! Again I don't mind, I just would hate to have any misunderstanding with friends…
> -5F. Pulley remover / installer set.
> -5G. Radiator / cooling system pressure tester.
> 
> #6. Replace the simple shelves that are next to the tool stacker with a proper wall cabinet. I want the cabinet to house my spraying equipment, cleaning equipment, shop rags in a box, basically most of the stuff that is on those shelves, plus add more abrasive storage and keep it neat. I don't have a design yet, but trust me, one is coming soon… I will need to insure that I have jig storage factored in there as well for the dovetail jigs, as well as for my box joint jigs.
> 
> #7. Design, build, and install some sort of means to store the remaining safety equipment, respirators, cartridges, nitrile gloves, hearing protectors, safety glasses etc.. on the man door where the fire extinguisher and first aid kit live now.
> #8. Not sure if I can get my lovely bride to agree to this, but I am considering painting the shop side of the man door bright red to indicate that is the emergency / safety center.
> 
> #8. Build a quick & simple rip fence micro adjuster for the table saw. I have plenty of the necessary hardware, and the design is forehead slapping simple, I just need to do it…
> 
> So as you see, I have a TON of work left to do to finish just the shop storage projects. I have plenty of projects to do for in, on, and around the house, cars, and my own happy self.. So we will see what gets done and when!


One step at a time. You'll get it all together, and, you'll be lovin it.


----------



## dbhost

*Auto lifting safety, cheap cordless additions, and safety center updates.*

The light duty floor jack and jack stands finally gave me a moment of pause and I finally bit the bullet rather than the coffin, and opted for more serious hardware. I got rid of the little trolley jack, and 3 ton jack stands in favor of a 4 ton service jack, and 6 ton stands. I haven't had an opportunity to test them yet, but if they function as well as the actual fit and finish looks, these will be real workhorses for my automotive work for years to come.

On a more wood shop related note, I finally decided to just bit the bullet and try out cordless, and as much as I Have hated it in the past I couldn't see going high dollar on it. I went with the ultra cheap Harbor Freight 18V cordless drill / flashlight combo. While the build does feel cheap, and I am sure this is a disposable tool, I have so far been pleasantly surprised by the performance of this thing…

Lastly, I made some updates to the safety center, building / adding a dispenser / holder for my nitrile gloves, moving the safety glasses holder up some, and making room for, as well as marking my layout lines on the material for the holder for my respirators.

Like always, more detailed info and photos can be found on my blog…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/some-auto-related-upgrades-and.html

Thanks for looking!


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Auto lifting safety, cheap cordless additions, and safety center updates.*
> 
> The light duty floor jack and jack stands finally gave me a moment of pause and I finally bit the bullet rather than the coffin, and opted for more serious hardware. I got rid of the little trolley jack, and 3 ton jack stands in favor of a 4 ton service jack, and 6 ton stands. I haven't had an opportunity to test them yet, but if they function as well as the actual fit and finish looks, these will be real workhorses for my automotive work for years to come.
> 
> On a more wood shop related note, I finally decided to just bit the bullet and try out cordless, and as much as I Have hated it in the past I couldn't see going high dollar on it. I went with the ultra cheap Harbor Freight 18V cordless drill / flashlight combo. While the build does feel cheap, and I am sure this is a disposable tool, I have so far been pleasantly surprised by the performance of this thing…
> 
> Lastly, I made some updates to the safety center, building / adding a dispenser / holder for my nitrile gloves, moving the safety glasses holder up some, and making room for, as well as marking my layout lines on the material for the holder for my respirators.
> 
> Like always, more detailed info and photos can be found on my blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/some-auto-related-upgrades-and.html
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I have long had cordless tools around, and used Makita for years. Then I bought an 18V Bosch driver and drill, much smaller, but more powerful than the Makita. Probably due to the Lithium ion batteries. Then in La Conner I bought a 12V Bosch mini-drill for quick change bits, a 12 volt drill with chuck, and a 12 V impact driver. That was after reading an article in FWW. I liked those 12 volters so much, really small and light, I bought the same three for Anchorage, and totally retired the Makita stuff. The difference is the lithium ion batteries, quick charging etc. I have a couple extra batteries at each shop for the 12 volt, and two chargers at each shop. Amazingly, I only reach for the 18V when I have to have 4 drills in action with different drivers, bits, counter sinks, etc. So, if you ever think you need another one, try one of the 12V things…....every brand has them…...and you will get hooked.

No automotive work here, other than swapping summer and winter tires…........but I should get a good jack some time.

Have a good week. I spent my weekend in a very lazy fashion….....age is definitely slowing me down.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Auto lifting safety, cheap cordless additions, and safety center updates.*
> 
> The light duty floor jack and jack stands finally gave me a moment of pause and I finally bit the bullet rather than the coffin, and opted for more serious hardware. I got rid of the little trolley jack, and 3 ton jack stands in favor of a 4 ton service jack, and 6 ton stands. I haven't had an opportunity to test them yet, but if they function as well as the actual fit and finish looks, these will be real workhorses for my automotive work for years to come.
> 
> On a more wood shop related note, I finally decided to just bit the bullet and try out cordless, and as much as I Have hated it in the past I couldn't see going high dollar on it. I went with the ultra cheap Harbor Freight 18V cordless drill / flashlight combo. While the build does feel cheap, and I am sure this is a disposable tool, I have so far been pleasantly surprised by the performance of this thing…
> 
> Lastly, I made some updates to the safety center, building / adding a dispenser / holder for my nitrile gloves, moving the safety glasses holder up some, and making room for, as well as marking my layout lines on the material for the holder for my respirators.
> 
> Like always, more detailed info and photos can be found on my blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/some-auto-related-upgrades-and.html
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I wish I could have been lazy. But at least I got good stuff done :-D


----------



## A10GAC

dbhost said:


> *Auto lifting safety, cheap cordless additions, and safety center updates.*
> 
> The light duty floor jack and jack stands finally gave me a moment of pause and I finally bit the bullet rather than the coffin, and opted for more serious hardware. I got rid of the little trolley jack, and 3 ton jack stands in favor of a 4 ton service jack, and 6 ton stands. I haven't had an opportunity to test them yet, but if they function as well as the actual fit and finish looks, these will be real workhorses for my automotive work for years to come.
> 
> On a more wood shop related note, I finally decided to just bit the bullet and try out cordless, and as much as I Have hated it in the past I couldn't see going high dollar on it. I went with the ultra cheap Harbor Freight 18V cordless drill / flashlight combo. While the build does feel cheap, and I am sure this is a disposable tool, I have so far been pleasantly surprised by the performance of this thing…
> 
> Lastly, I made some updates to the safety center, building / adding a dispenser / holder for my nitrile gloves, moving the safety glasses holder up some, and making room for, as well as marking my layout lines on the material for the holder for my respirators.
> 
> Like always, more detailed info and photos can be found on my blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/some-auto-related-upgrades-and.html
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Unfortunately with the price of replacement batteries, pretty much all cordless tools are throw away items. I had a PC Drill/flashlight combo… the drill a light were still in good shape so I figured I would just buy a couple new batteries. Well, long story short, for the price of two new batteries I bought a new Hitachi 18v LI-ion drill/light/impact driver set.

I'd go back to corded tools, but the generator is just too heavy to lug out to the back 40.


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Auto lifting safety, cheap cordless additions, and safety center updates.*
> 
> The light duty floor jack and jack stands finally gave me a moment of pause and I finally bit the bullet rather than the coffin, and opted for more serious hardware. I got rid of the little trolley jack, and 3 ton jack stands in favor of a 4 ton service jack, and 6 ton stands. I haven't had an opportunity to test them yet, but if they function as well as the actual fit and finish looks, these will be real workhorses for my automotive work for years to come.
> 
> On a more wood shop related note, I finally decided to just bit the bullet and try out cordless, and as much as I Have hated it in the past I couldn't see going high dollar on it. I went with the ultra cheap Harbor Freight 18V cordless drill / flashlight combo. While the build does feel cheap, and I am sure this is a disposable tool, I have so far been pleasantly surprised by the performance of this thing…
> 
> Lastly, I made some updates to the safety center, building / adding a dispenser / holder for my nitrile gloves, moving the safety glasses holder up some, and making room for, as well as marking my layout lines on the material for the holder for my respirators.
> 
> Like always, more detailed info and photos can be found on my blog…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/04/some-auto-related-upgrades-and.html
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I think that for me, at least, the jury is still out. The lithium ion batteries should have a much longer life time than the Ni-Cads. But, I will wait and see. In any case, I have a extra batteries, at no extra cost as I recall, for all the 12 volt machines. So it will be a performance and cost over time equation for me. So far, so good. But I am always the skeptic…..........


----------



## dbhost

*Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*

If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.

In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.

The blog entry is at the link below…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html

I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…

With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


Will watch to see what you come up with, since I need a cart for both of my shops.


----------



## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


Jim,

My build will be VERY similar to Jerry's build. The only area I am planning on changing up is the shelf parts on the side. He built his with fixed shelves, I am planning on doing the shelf pin / adjustable shelf thing. I have my shelf pin spacing jig (scrap pegboard, square, and clamps) ready to go! Just need the material.

The fun part will be trying to figure out how to make the cuts he shows with the diagonal pieces. I suspect it will be with a jig saw and cutting guide to get it right. I am not wanting to "over cut" my lines so a circ saw isn't a good option.

It does appear that this subject is popular, I have a LOT of views on it already… Like I mentioned, I may end up doing a video of this. Might be able to talk the Mrs. into helping me out…


----------



## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


I would probably do the cuts most of the way with a plunge saw in La Conner, and finish it off with the jig saw. Here in Anchorage I don't have a plunge saw, and the Skil Saw is a little bit ragged. May have to get a plunge saw for here as well. Just cut a piece last weekend for the TS Outfeed/DC thing, and had to use multiple tools to make it happen…...at least with some semblance of workmanship…...


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


No plunge saw… Might set up stop blocks and do most of the cut with the circ and finish with the jig saw… Just seems like a time waster to change saws, and my jig saw cuts pretty good…

I picked up the casters, I was going to get a couple extra sets, but they only had 4 of the 200lb casters in the store…

Now that I think about it, I should have gotten 4 of the ones without locks, I need a set for the TS mobile base, and the caster platform will flip up out of the way so no need for brakes…

I need to get to Home Depot and get the screws, as well as the plywood, but the weather is looking kind of foul. I might be lucky and get to it tonight. Probably not though…


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


Anchorage is into a siege of nice weather, into the 60's each day, sunny and clear, cools down at night. April was pretty nice as well. Sometimes our best month is May. Usually June and July are the better months, and August brings the arctic monsoons…......at least that is my interpretation.

I keep a bunch of casters at both houses, and I slowly go through them. I put wheels on most everything in both shops, although it is more important in La Conner….........


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


60s? Brrrrr!

LOML has other ideas for my time, which isn't a great thing… I came home with sheet goods, but it is Hardi Panel instead of plywood…. Rain has been a rail PITA this weekend, so no chance to get any plywood anyway…

We have some formerly unnoticed siding damage which is no shock. The house has Masonite siding that just needs to go… I got 3 panels of Hardi Panel T1-10 style and some Hardi Trim. I am not going to be able to be completely compliant on the no nails within an inch of the edges though. I have to rip the trim to 1×2 in order to keep the look the same and keep the HOA off my butt…

The Hardie gets cut in the yard with a cutting guide, a Hardie blade, and a sacrificial board…


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Project preparation, rolling sheet goods / cutoffs cart.*
> 
> If you may recall, a while back a fellow Lumberjock named Jerry built a sheet goods / cutoffs cart that he called a cutoffs / scrap cart, but in all honestly it was sized perfectly for full sheet goods. I found the design to be a great idea / space saver/ organizing brilliance. And I contributed to the cause by drawing up a Sketchup plan of the cart. Now it is time for me to build one.
> 
> In order to get a handle on it, and be able to actually efficiently handle the project, I needed to get a plan of attack going, and get a budget set up to handle this project so I can control costs, while ending up with the results I want.
> 
> The blog entry is at the link below…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/preparing-for-sheet-goods-cutoffs-cart.html
> 
> I am not certain of the rain chances which is something that can foul up my plans, but I know Sunday looks clear, and I believe Friday night is clear as well…
> 
> With any luck, in the near future I should be posting another completed project with this cart done. And then I can finally get the lean to sheet goods storage taken care of, and get the buried Masonite siding out so I can fix the siding on the back of the house…


Our house in La Conner has older siding as well, and is being replaced with Hardie Board as needed…........


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## dbhost

*Finally tracked down that *#$% leak!*

Okay not entirely wood related, but close enough…

With the very little shop time I have been able to spend over the last couple of days I have finally gotten the evasive leak fixed. Turned out to be a FPT male coupler that just did NOT want to seal for anything even though I sealed it up tight…

A colleague of mine had asked me about my impact as he knew I was putting a lot of work into our vehicles lately, and I told him about the Central Pneumatic Earthquake gun. I even offered to loan mine to him, but he insisted on buying his own, and is thrilled with it… Great to hear.

I figured out how to troubleshoot, get spares for, and repair a 20+ year old Blue Point Air ratchet so now I have a premium air ratchet, and a bottom of the barrel version. Both work so whatever…

Detailed blog entries are in 2 places this time. For the leak fix and impact the post is at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/sometimes-threads-just-dont-want-to.html

My write up on the air ratchet and a pictoral of teardown and rebuild is at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/20-year-old-blue-point-air-ratchet.html


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## jbertelson

dbhost said:


> *Finally tracked down that *#$% leak!*
> 
> Okay not entirely wood related, but close enough…
> 
> With the very little shop time I have been able to spend over the last couple of days I have finally gotten the evasive leak fixed. Turned out to be a FPT male coupler that just did NOT want to seal for anything even though I sealed it up tight…
> 
> A colleague of mine had asked me about my impact as he knew I was putting a lot of work into our vehicles lately, and I told him about the Central Pneumatic Earthquake gun. I even offered to loan mine to him, but he insisted on buying his own, and is thrilled with it… Great to hear.
> 
> I figured out how to troubleshoot, get spares for, and repair a 20+ year old Blue Point Air ratchet so now I have a premium air ratchet, and a bottom of the barrel version. Both work so whatever…
> 
> Detailed blog entries are in 2 places this time. For the leak fix and impact the post is at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/sometimes-threads-just-dont-want-to.html
> 
> My write up on the air ratchet and a pictoral of teardown and rebuild is at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/20-year-old-blue-point-air-ratchet.html


Not really up my alley, but there may be a day when I will change my air situation in Anchorage….......and I have yet to make the setup to house my compressor at La Conner. I don't have access to a Harbor Freight here in Anchorage, and the nearest one to La Conner is in Bellingham. I do get to Bellingham most trips to La Conner. I will have to check them out.

Got beat up by work this week. Yesterday was recovery. Looking forward to being a little more productive today….............


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## dbhost

*Clearing the (compressed) air.*

I did some additions to my compressed air system, by adding a Central Pneumatic Desiccant Dryer / Oil Removal filter, and coupler bracket. I also chased down the last few leaks, and replaced a defective replacement regulator on my HF 8 gallon compressor.

Not sure if you remember, but I managed to cause at MY fault on the original regulators fault, the destruction of the OEM regulator on my small compressor a few years ago. If I recall correctly I dropped something on the compressor like the impact wrench and busted it… So I replaced it with a Husky, which has never been completely reliable… So I replaced that with a fresh HF regulator. So far so good!

The whole system has been bubble tested and passes with flying colors, and the compressors are both undergoing leak down testing connected to the system and at the 14 hour point they are both holding exactly the pressure I left them with (and turned them off so it's not like the compressors are cycling…).

The pics and more detailed write up are on my blogspot page for those interested.

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/clearing-air.html


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## b2rtch

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the (compressed) air.*
> 
> I did some additions to my compressed air system, by adding a Central Pneumatic Desiccant Dryer / Oil Removal filter, and coupler bracket. I also chased down the last few leaks, and replaced a defective replacement regulator on my HF 8 gallon compressor.
> 
> Not sure if you remember, but I managed to cause at MY fault on the original regulators fault, the destruction of the OEM regulator on my small compressor a few years ago. If I recall correctly I dropped something on the compressor like the impact wrench and busted it… So I replaced it with a Husky, which has never been completely reliable… So I replaced that with a fresh HF regulator. So far so good!
> 
> The whole system has been bubble tested and passes with flying colors, and the compressors are both undergoing leak down testing connected to the system and at the 14 hour point they are both holding exactly the pressure I left them with (and turned them off so it's not like the compressors are cycling…).
> 
> The pics and more detailed write up are on my blogspot page for those interested.
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/clearing-air.html


Nice.
Year ago I bought a $800 air compressor for $70.00 only because the pressure switch was not longer working and the guy was afraid that the tank would explode.
I bought a new pressure switch at HF for $7.00 and since the compressor is working perfect.


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the (compressed) air.*
> 
> I did some additions to my compressed air system, by adding a Central Pneumatic Desiccant Dryer / Oil Removal filter, and coupler bracket. I also chased down the last few leaks, and replaced a defective replacement regulator on my HF 8 gallon compressor.
> 
> Not sure if you remember, but I managed to cause at MY fault on the original regulators fault, the destruction of the OEM regulator on my small compressor a few years ago. If I recall correctly I dropped something on the compressor like the impact wrench and busted it… So I replaced it with a Husky, which has never been completely reliable… So I replaced that with a fresh HF regulator. So far so good!
> 
> The whole system has been bubble tested and passes with flying colors, and the compressors are both undergoing leak down testing connected to the system and at the 14 hour point they are both holding exactly the pressure I left them with (and turned them off so it's not like the compressors are cycling…).
> 
> The pics and more detailed write up are on my blogspot page for those interested.
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/clearing-air.html


Great score Bert!


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Clearing the (compressed) air.*
> 
> I did some additions to my compressed air system, by adding a Central Pneumatic Desiccant Dryer / Oil Removal filter, and coupler bracket. I also chased down the last few leaks, and replaced a defective replacement regulator on my HF 8 gallon compressor.
> 
> Not sure if you remember, but I managed to cause at MY fault on the original regulators fault, the destruction of the OEM regulator on my small compressor a few years ago. If I recall correctly I dropped something on the compressor like the impact wrench and busted it… So I replaced it with a Husky, which has never been completely reliable… So I replaced that with a fresh HF regulator. So far so good!
> 
> The whole system has been bubble tested and passes with flying colors, and the compressors are both undergoing leak down testing connected to the system and at the 14 hour point they are both holding exactly the pressure I left them with (and turned them off so it's not like the compressors are cycling…).
> 
> The pics and more detailed write up are on my blogspot page for those interested.
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/clearing-air.html


I just updated the post. I realized I hadn't posted a photo of the completed assembly, and so the pic is there now, as is a photo of my leak down test after 26 hours… Sweet deal!


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## dbhost

*Dealing with the continued pressure... *

Another update. Pressure is holding fast. My brain is probably going OCD on this whole thing as I am wondering if I should upgrade the connection between the filtration rig and the hose reel with something like Rapidair, copper, or even black iron.

I have my updated post, and even set up a poll on my blogger page if you are interested…

http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/follow-up-update-dealing-with-pressure.html


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## johnstoneb

dbhost said:


> *Dealing with the continued pressure... *
> 
> Another update. Pressure is holding fast. My brain is probably going OCD on this whole thing as I am wondering if I should upgrade the connection between the filtration rig and the hose reel with something like Rapidair, copper, or even black iron.
> 
> I have my updated post, and even set up a poll on my blogger page if you are interested…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/follow-up-update-dealing-with-pressure.html


You could use a flexible or bendable copper off the compressor to the rigid mounts. You would need to bend a loop in it.


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## cathode

dbhost said:


> *Dealing with the continued pressure... *
> 
> Another update. Pressure is holding fast. My brain is probably going OCD on this whole thing as I am wondering if I should upgrade the connection between the filtration rig and the hose reel with something like Rapidair, copper, or even black iron.
> 
> I have my updated post, and even set up a poll on my blogger page if you are interested…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/follow-up-update-dealing-with-pressure.html


I use this stuff on any type of connection that doesn't have integral O-rings. It's fantastic. *NO LEAKS!* It's rated for up to 3000 PSI on gasses (air). easily handles a shop compressed air system.










You can get it on amazon, and probably at any hardware store locally.

Store it upside down.


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## dbhost

dbhost said:


> *Dealing with the continued pressure... *
> 
> Another update. Pressure is holding fast. My brain is probably going OCD on this whole thing as I am wondering if I should upgrade the connection between the filtration rig and the hose reel with something like Rapidair, copper, or even black iron.
> 
> I have my updated post, and even set up a poll on my blogger page if you are interested…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/follow-up-update-dealing-with-pressure.html


The Ace Hardware stuff is labeled by Oatey..
Never knew to store it upside down.


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## cathode

dbhost said:


> *Dealing with the continued pressure... *
> 
> Another update. Pressure is holding fast. My brain is probably going OCD on this whole thing as I am wondering if I should upgrade the connection between the filtration rig and the hose reel with something like Rapidair, copper, or even black iron.
> 
> I have my updated post, and even set up a poll on my blogger page if you are interested…
> 
> http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/follow-up-update-dealing-with-pressure.html


If you store it upside down, the oily part that separates out, ends up separating at the bottom of the can which makes it easier to mix back in once you turn the can right-side up and open it.


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