# Table saw blade pulling materials away from fence, thoughts?



## JMB (Jan 8, 2009)

I am refurbishing an old cast iron table saw I bought a few months ago. I believe it is a Delta model from the 80's. 27" deep table, chrome steel pipes for the fence rails. Real basic.

The previous owner busted the fence and lost the parts to it. Until I can afford to buy a new replacement T fence, I have been clamping a straight edge to the table to run quick rips. I know its not accurate and don't expect it to be. I'm just using it for (very) basic carpentry while I build up my new shop.

Here's my question / problem -

No matter how hard I push towards the "fence", the blade has a tendency to pull the material away from the fence as the cut progresses. I end up with cock - eyed cuts, saw burns, un-square boards and am running a serious risk of kickback issues. For cuts that matter I can always cut wide and plane it square and parallel, but I still have the kickback problem.

What could be causing this issue? Is my fence not parallel to the blade? Could the blade not be square to the table? How should I adjust to prevent this problem until I get my new fence?

JB


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Your blade could be warped and your fence is most likely not parallel to the blade. It is very important to get the fence in line with the blade as kick back will eventually occur. It would probably be best to wait and get a proper fence that will keep you safe and be more comfortable to use.


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

I would also say the fence is not parallel to the blade. Just out of curiosity, what model number is the saw ? A Delta T2 fence at Lowes for $150 is about the most affordable solution, it's supose to be a good fence also.


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## Emeralds (Aug 24, 2008)

It's hard to imagine anything other than what John mentioned. I guess the arbor could be slightly bent or causing the blade to wobble but I can't see any easy way to go about bending an arbor unintentionally.

"Okum's razor" is in full effect here, so check the most obvious points first. Insure that the blade is absolutely dead parallel to the fence. The easiest way to achieve that is to use your miter tracts as a reference against which you can set the both the blade and the fence.

It really doesn't matter what you use as a fence as long as it is straight and trued to the blade. Once you've done the preliminary squaring up if the problem persists, you can get more specific about checking individual elements for true alignment. If it comes to that start with the easiest and most likely (saw blade) and work your way through one at a time until the problem is resolves.

BTW - I own the T2 fence that Woodchuck talked about. I installed it on a ten year old Craftsman contractors saw that had the same type of cast-iron table. It works very well.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Ditto what everyone has said about the fence being parallel to the blade. It is possible that you are being careful to clamp your fence 90 degrees square to the table, but the blade itself is not square to the table.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Let me ask a question. The wood only cuts with the front teeth and the wood should not curve in the cuts that are made. So if the leading edge of the cut is 2" after you cut some distance is it still 2" or is it like 1 3/4 or so.

I don't know what it means but on a band saw if a blade tracks to the side it is called drift and you need to realign the fence so that the cut is straight.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Is the blade parallel to the miter slot? If not it can pull the wood toward the blade and away from the fence


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## HallTree (Feb 1, 2008)

JB, please, be very careful using a table saw that is not adjusted right with an inferior rip fence. It is an accident waiting to happen. A good rip fence is costly to most of us. Save your money for some good equipment and you wiill enjoy woodworking a whole lot more.


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

another thing..
Use a featherboard to hold your ripped material snug to the blade.


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

Another possibillity is that the board is warped or curved.


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## JMB (Jan 8, 2009)

I took a long straight edge to the blade and it is definitely not square to the table. Its off by a good two or three degrees (WTF?). Squaring the makeshift fence to the blade rather than the table eliminated the pulling problem and allowed me to make some fairly accurate cuts today. Thanks for all of your helpful advice thus far.

Now to my new problem - How do I square the blade to the table??

I've taken a few tools apart and rebuilt them in my time, but never a table saw. I did watch a guy take apart a newer saw once when I worked at a mill, but he took it off site to complete the fine tuning and I couldnt watch the rest of the process. Are there adjustment points to square up the blade? Does it just depend on the saws age and how well it is manufactured?

One thought - The lower cabinet is just a steel box with legs. If It were twisted slightly relative to the table, could that pull the blade out of square?

Thanks again all.

JMB


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

If you can find the model number somewhere on the saw, I'll bet you could find a manual online. There should be a way to adjust it.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Loosen the 4 trunion bolts, front and back. You may want to replace
them with higher-grade bolts (grade 8) and/or add lock washers.

Shift the trunions around until the blade is parallel to the slots. The
blade should be extended all the way. I use a long ice-pick held
against the mitr gage to check so the tip of the pick hits the blade
plate fore and aft pretty much the same. You can tell by the sound
of the pick scraping against the steel how close you are to having
it the same front and back. Because the blade may be slightly warped
it is best to pick a tool and rotate the blade back and forward so
you are checking that tooth alone.

When you get pretty close, tighten the bolts, rechecking as you go.
You don't have to be goofy about it but do try to get it close
to parallel.


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## JMB (Jan 8, 2009)

Just to be sure - Are the Trunion bolts the 4 bolts holding the table to the legs?


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## Steelmum (Jul 21, 2007)

Is the blade new? Did you remove the blade to be sure it is flat. I am stating the obvious, I know, 5 minutes to check.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

i would say that the fence is not parallel. i ran into that problem before i upgraded to a delta T-2. the blade always wants to cut straight so if the fence isn't parallel it will pull away trying to keep straight. you pushing towards the fence could be whats effecting your cuts. but its not safe to be off the fence. so you should probably get a new one. the deltas only 150 and is a great fence.


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

I wouldn't loosen all four bolts. I recommend that you look into this PALS system









While I did not go the full micrometer route, it worked well for me just listening to the sound of the same tooth brushing the end of a combo square riding the miter slot at the front and rear of the blade (Thanks again to Todd Clippinger for popping out to the garage shop in the cold during his visit last year). I'm generally very timid in the machinist realm. I have to echo everyone else's admonitions regarding the ad hoc fence. You should get the replacement fence, sooner rather than later. Keep all ten attached and avoid sculptural additions to wall and door panels behind the saw (as well as the high-speed mechanized gut-punch and any other functions of the TS as artillery piece).


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I highly recomend reviewing the stuff on the following website. You have to register, but it's free. It also has a link to an article I wrote on my TS alignment problems and eventualy solution.

TS alignment. tablesawalignment.com


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I did the hyper link wrong. Trying again

TS alignment


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